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H&M Quality Standards & Requirements GPQD-000208

Valid for all brands in H&M group

H&M Quality Standards & Requirements


Part 2: Apparel
Valid for all brands in H&M Group
GlobalFebruary 2020
Product Quality Department 1 (34)
February 2020 Version 1

General Information
H&M Quality Standards & Requirements GPQD-000208
Valid for all brands in H&M group

2. Apparel
Please note that labels, badges and trims need to be tested together with the product that it is attached to
and meet the same requirements.

Table of Contents
2. Apparel ............................................................................................................................................................2
2.1. Textile............................................................................................................................................................................ 3
2.1.1. Colour Fastness .............................................................................................................................................. 3
2.1.2. Laundering...................................................................................................................................................... 8
2.1.3. Durability & Strength.................................................................................................................................... 10
2.1.4. Safety ............................................................................................................................................................ 16
2.1.5. Swimwear: Additional Requirements ........................................................................................................... 16
2.2. Cashmere .................................................................................................................................................................... 18
2.3. Leather ........................................................................................................................................................................ 19
2.4. Flammability ............................................................................................................................................................... 22
2.4.1. Children’s Nightwear .................................................................................................................................... 23
Changes Since Last Update ......................................................................................................................... 31

Global Product Quality Department 2 (34)


February 2020 Version 1

General Information
H&M Quality Standards & Requirements GPQD-000208
Valid for all brands in H&M group

2.1. Textile
Test Standard method Products Requirements
ISO 1833 All textile products If 100% of the same
Deviation of Fiber fibre:
Content No deviation

If fibre blend:
± 3.0 percentage points
(but fibre content is not
allowed to be zero)

Note: The composition


stated in test report
shall be stated as final
composition in the
H&M system.

The ± 3.0 tolerance is


only reference for the
3-d party institutes.

EN 12127 All textile products Mass per unit area (gsm):


Fabric Weight ±5% according to FTD

2.1.1. Colour Fastness


ISO 105-B02 General Change in colour: 3
CF to Artificial Light -
Method 2 Swimwear fabrics including Change in colour: 4
Xenon Test
embroidery, print etc.
Blue wool reference Plastic decorations on No major change
grade 4. swimwear, e.g. sequins,
plastic bead, buckle etc.
Use blue wool
Exceptions
reference fabric from
SDC. - Beach wear, e.g. sarongs Change in colour: 4
- Swimwear in white colour
with OBA
Swimwear in neon colours Change in colour: 2
and very bright* colours of
pink, turquoise, yellow,
purple and green
Socks and tights in neon Change in colour: 2
colours and very bright*
colours of pink, turquoise,
yellow, purple and green

*Please use H&M Colour value/Colour master to define bright colour.

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February 2020 Version 1

General Information
H&M Quality Standards & Requirements GPQD-000208
Valid for all brands in H&M group

H&M TM CF:03 General Colour staining after 1


CF to Household wash: 3-4
Laundering
Change in colour after 1
and 5 washes: 4
Cross staining after,
1 wash: 4-5
5 washes: 4
Exceptions
Denim (black & blue) Change in colour after 1
wash: 4
Change in colour after 5
washes: 3-4

Solid dark coloured Colour staining after 1


products in: wash1 (at 40⁰C and
- 100% polyester above): 2
Change in colour after 1
- Polyester blends ≥ 30%
and 5 washes: 4
polyester
Neon coloured products Colour staining after 1
wash1: 2
Change in colour after 1
and 5 washes2 : 3-4
No major change of neon
character/OBA effect
To be wash tested 15 Denim products labelled with Change in colour after 15
times in 30 degrees “Stay black/Stay blue” washes: 4
machine wash, gentle information
cycle and line dry.

ISO 105-D01 Products labelled with “dry Change in colour: 4


CF to Dry Cleaning clean only” or dry clean as Cross staining: 4-5
optional cleaning method
ISO 105-X12 Textile products General: 3-4
CF to Dry Rubbing

Face & reverse side. Children’s products, ages


Before & after wash or 0- 1.5 years (size 44-
dry clean. 92cl): 4

China portion

1 For results below 3-4 “Wash with similar colours” must be mentioned in the care instruction.
2
If the colour change result is 3-4 the hang tag for neon coloured products must be used. Products which also need dry rubbing warning according to
H&M requirements must instead have the combined hang tag which warns for both dry rubbing and fading.

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February 2020 Version 1

General Information
H&M Quality Standards & Requirements GPQD-000208
Valid for all brands in H&M group

China requirement Children’s products, ages


applies before wash. 0-3 years (size 44-98cl): 4
Exceptions
- Placement prints in foil or 3
pigment
- Pile fabrics China portion
Children’s products, ages
0-3 years (size 44-98cl): 4
- Denim3 2-3
China portion
3
Children’s products, ages
0-3 years (size 44-98cl): 4
- Linen/Linen mix Adult’s & children’s
- Peached/Brushed fabrics products, ages 8-14 years
(size 134-170cl): 3
- Pigment print
- Indigo dye3 Adult’s & children’s
- Pigment dye3 products, ages 3-14 years
(size 92-170cl): 2-3

China portion
3
ISO 105-X12 Swimwear 3
CF to Wet Rubbing
Bath robes 2-3
Face & reverse side.
Morning gowns
Before & after wash or
dry clean.
China portion
- All children’s 2-3*
China requirement
garments in size
applies before wash.
98-170 cl (ages 4-
14) and all sizes for
Light colour = colour adult’s garments.
lighter than or equal - All garment’s in 2-3*
to colour scale 1/12 size 44-98 cl (ages
for standard depths 0-3) in all colours,
according to ISO 105- except products in
A01 (GB/T 4841.3) 3
light colour.

3
If result is 3 or 2-3: warning text must be added in the care label. For H&M orders a warning hang tag must also be attached.
Exception: Raw denim and rinse wash shall always have a warning text in the care label as well as on a hang tag/sticker, even though P/S test result is
3-4 or better.

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February 2020 Version 1

General Information
H&M Quality Standards & Requirements GPQD-000208
Valid for all brands in H&M group

- Size 44-98 cl (ages


0-3) products in
light colour.

Exceptions
Adult’s woven garments, China portion
with peach effect in cotton 2
or cotton/elastane
- Garments without China portion
skin contact, in No requirement
size 104-170 and
all sizes for adult’s
garments.
e.g outerwear as
jackets/coats and
blazers
- Denim in garments
for adult sizes.
- Fake fur in
garments for adult
sizes.
*See internal “Implementation routine CN Mandatory wet rubbing requirement for children’s products”

H&M TM CF:04 Children’s bibs & aprons in 4-5


CF to Oil Rubbing size 44-104cl

AATCC 109 (2 cycles) Indigo dyed products 3


CF to Ozone
Grey scale result and
visual change to be
reported
ISO 105-E01 or Textile products Colour staining: 3-4
CF to Water GB/T 5713 Change in colour: 4
Cross staining: 4-5
ISO multifibre type
DW Children’s textile products, China portion
Sampling according to ages 0-3 years (size 44-98cl) Colour staining: 3-4
H&M Lab Manual. Change in colour: 3-4

Adult’s & children’s textile China portion


products, ages 4-14 years Colour staining: 3
(size 104-170cl) Change in colour: 3
ISO 105-E04 or Children’s products, ages Acid & Alkaline
CF to Perspiration 0-1.5 years (size 44-92cl)
GB/T 3922 Colour staining: 3-4
Change in colour: 3-4

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February 2020 Version 1

General Information
H&M Quality Standards & Requirements GPQD-000208
Valid for all brands in H&M group

ISO multifibre type Cross staining: 4-5


DW
Adult’s & children’s Acid & Alkaline
Sampling according to products, ages 2-14 years Colour staining: 3
H&M Lab Manual. (size 98-170cl) Change in colour: 3
Cross staining: 4-5

Children’s products, ages China portion


0-3 years (size 44-98cl) Acid & Alkaline
Colour staining: 3-4
Change in colour: 3-4
Cross staining: 4-5

Modified AATCC 163 • Details such as prints, Colour staining: 4


CF - Dye Transfer in labels, badges, and Change in colour: 4
Option 1
Storage other trims in Cross staining: 4-5
contrast colours to
Test specimens to be any part of the
size 4 x 10cm. product.
• All-over printed
Use ISO multifibre type
fabrics in contrast
DW. colour.
Sampling according to • Products sewn
H&M Lab Manual. together in contrast
colours.
ISO 105-X11 • Details such as Colour staining: 4
CF to Hot pressing prints, labels, Change in colour: 4
badges, and other Cross staining: 4-5
trims in contrast
colours to any part of
the product.
• All-over printed
fabrics in contrast
colour.
• Products sewn
together in contrast
colours.
ISO 105-X18 Textile products Change in colour: 4
CF to Phenolic Yellowing

Use test paper and Only white and pastel


control fabric from colours. See picture
James Heal

GB/T 18886 Children’s products, ages Colour staining: 4


CF to Saliva 0-1.5 years (size 44-92cl) Change in colour: 4
ISO multifibre type DW Cross staining: 4-5
China portion

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February 2020 Version 1

General Information
H&M Quality Standards & Requirements GPQD-000208
Valid for all brands in H&M group

Sampling according to Children’s products, ages


H&M Lab Manual. 0-3 years (size 44-98cl)

2.1.2. Laundering
AATCC 143 Woven products labelled as 3
Appearance of Fabric “Easy Iron”
Option 2
and Seams

5 times washing and


drying cycles

General:
Dimensional Stability to
Household Laundering
H&M TM LA:03 Woven Length:  3%
Width:  3%

Exceptions:
Linen and regenerated cellulose like Viscose and Tencel
when shrinkage results are -3,1% - -5,0 % after regular
ironing, but can be reduced to -3 % with the help of “Iron
when damp”, must have Extra care instruction, “Iron
when damp".

Knits General:
Length:  5%
Width:  5%

Jersey tops and bottoms General:


After 1 & 5 washes:
(excluding underwear, Length:  5%
swimwear, socks and tights
Width:  5%
which are covered by the
general requirement)

Jersey in ≤130 gsm in After 1 and 5 washes:


viscose, modal, lyocell, linen, Length & width:
silk (with/without elastane)  7% before iron after
wash
 5% after iron after wash

Rib, waffle, interlock and Length:  5%


fancy structures in all Width: +5% / -7%
compositions

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February 2020 Version 1

General Information
H&M Quality Standards & Requirements GPQD-000208
Valid for all brands in H&M group

H&M TM LA:02 General No major change


Appearance after
Wash
1 time wash Major change includes, but is
not limited to:
H&M TM LA:02
- Product loses its shape
5 times wash - Puckering of seams or labels
- Seams or linking breaks
H&M TM LA:02 Underwear with bonded - Strings or similar unravels
seams - Hand feel changes
20 times wash (stiff/harsh/boiled)
- Material breaks / holes
appear
- Uneven fading/shading
(different parts of the same
product must have the same
hue)
- Cracking or vanishing print
- Distinct surface change
- Bulky and uneven wadding
- Padding/filling migrating
- Interface detaches or
becomes bubbly
- Care label not readable
- Excessive fibre loss
H&M TM LA:03 Products with care instruction Woven:
Dimensional “dry clean only” or dry clean Length ± 3%
Stability to Dry as optional cleaning method
Clean Width ± 3%

Knit:
Length ± 5%
Width ± 5%

H&M TM LA:02 Products with care instruction No major change


Appearance after “dry clean only” or dry clean
Dry Clean as optional cleaning method

H&M TM LA:04 General ≤ 5% or ≤ 1 cm

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February 2020 Version 1

General Information
H&M Quality Standards & Requirements GPQD-000208
Valid for all brands in H&M group

Trousers ≤ 8% or ≤ 1 cm
Twisting
(Spirality) Knitted tops: H&M brand
Solid/ pattern-matched After 1 and 5 washes:
striped products without ≤ 7% or ≤ 1 cm
details
(1 cm is applicable for small All other brands
openings on product like full
After 1 and 5 washes:
sleeve, baby’s leggings etc)
≤ 5% or ≤ 1 cm

Knitted tops with details such After 1 and 5 washes:


as: pockets, plackets, zippers, ≤ 5% or ≤ 1 cm
construction technical details
such as (centre back seams),
all over prints

H&M TM LA:05 Foam cups being developed Pass


Laminated Foam for bras
Cup Development
(underwear and swimwear)
Stage Wash test

2.1.3. Durability & Strength


EN 13770-1 Socks and tights (except After 7000 rev.
Abrasion microfibre)
Stop after 5000 No thinning
Resistance -
revolutions and
Socks and Tights
evaluate after each
1000 revolution.
ISO 13938-2 Jersey products in ≤ 200 gsm: 250 kPa
Bursting Strength 100% natural and/or
Testing area: 7.3cm²
regenerated fibres

H&M TM DS:01 Fabrics with a pile > 5 mm Pass


Fibre Shedding of
Fabrics with a
Pile > 5 mm

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February 2020 Version 1

General Information
H&M Quality Standards & Requirements GPQD-000208
Valid for all brands in H&M group

Test Standard Method Products Requirements


Elongation Elongation Modulus Modulus Recovery
Tolerance Tolerance
Stretch & BS EN 14704-1:2005 Underwear in Refer spec* Spec + 10% For reference For reference min 80%
recovery Method A cotton/elastane mix only only
Underwear and Swimwear Spec < 100% Spec + 12 points Refer spec Spec + 25% min 85%
Load applied: 20 N in synthetic fibres/elastane For reference
mix, weft knit and warp only
knit fabrics. Spec > 100% Spec + 12% Refer spec Spec + 25% min 85%
For reference
Exception: Fabrics with only
mechanical stretch
ASTM D4964-1 Elastic, Lace & Mesh in Spec < 100% Spec + 12 points Refer spec Spec + 25% min 85%
Stretch & synthetic fibres/elastane For reference
recovery Width > 6 mm - load mix for Underwear and only
applied: 8.8 lbs Swimwear
Spec > 100% Spec + 12% Refer spec Spec + 25% min 85%
Width < 6mm - load For reference
applied: 4.4 lbs only

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February 2020 Version 1

General Information
H&M Quality Standards & Requirements GPQD-000208
Valid for all brands in H&M group

ASTM D3107 Woven fabrics with elastane Maximum growth:


Stretch &
After 3 washes <20% stretch: 4%
Recovery
In stretch direction 20-35% stretch: 6%
>35% stretch: 8%
Fabric stretch under Denim/Woven fabrics with 35 - 55% stretch: 4% growth
loading after 30min elastane labelled as “super 55 - 85% stretch: 5% growth
stretch”, “embrace” or
85 - 99% stretch: 6% growth
“shaping”4
Fabric growth after
static extension for Children’s denim labelled as ≥35% stretch: ≤6% growth
30min recovery “super stretch”
BS EN 14704- 1: 2005 Jersey fabric with elastane Min 90% recovery
Stretch & Method A after 1 Min & 30 min
recovery (<11% elastane 15 N, (Except Swimwear &
≥11% elastane 20N) Underwear)

H&M TM DS:12 Underwear and swimwear Dry and wet condition


Wire casing Bras, corsets and bustiers 245 N
penetration
resistance
ISO 9227 Decorative metals on RA ≥ 6
Corrosion - Salt apparel
Neutral salt spray for RP ≥ 8
Spray Test
24 hours with 5% salt
solution Premium quality
Evaluate according to RA= 10
ISO 10289, RP & RA
RP = 10
(type of defect, rating
for affected area &
subjective assessment
of degree of
deterioration)

ISO 12947-2/AC Pile fabrics e.g. velvet General: 7000 rev.


Pile Loss -
Annex A:2
Abrasion
Resistance (For treated pile fabrics see No visible bare parts must
No preparatory below) appear
treatment should be Corduroy  19 W = 7000 rev.
done on any cord No visible bare parts must
 19 W (For treated pile fabrics see appear
table below)
 19 W = 5000 rev.
No visible bare parts must
appear

4 Note! Labelling shall only be used upon buyer’s request, not by default depending on test result.

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H&M Quality Standards & Requirements GPQD-000208
Valid for all brands in H&M group

Pile Loss - Treated Pile Fabrics


Garment Heavy Treated
Products Quality Enzyme Wash
Wash Area

Corduroy ≥21W without pre-treatment 3000 rev. 3000 rev. 3000 rev.
All

1-19W with pre-treatment


Corduroy 7000 rev. 5000 rev. 3000 rev.
≥ 20W without pre-treatment

1-19W with pre-treatment 7000 rev. 7000 rev. 3000 rev.


Stretch corduroy
≥ 20W without pre-treatment 5000 rev. 5000 rev. 3000 rev.
Bottoms

Velvet corduroy,
Velvet stretch 1-19W without pre-treatment 7000 rev. 5000 rev. 3000 rev.
corduroy

Velveteen,
with pre-treatment 7000 rev. 5000 rev. 3000 rev.
Stretch velvet

Velour without pre-treatment 5000 rev. 5000 rev. 3000 rev.


baby wear

All pile fabrics 1-20W with pre-treatment 3000 rev. 3000 rev. 3000 rev.
Tops &

Velour without pre-treatment 3000 rev. 3000 rev. 3000 rev.

ISO 12945-1 Knits General:


Pilling
14 400 rev.: 3
Resistance
The test should be
- ICI Pilling Box
performed before
Wool/wool blends:
wash.
7 200 rev.: 3

Lamb’s wool/lamb’s wool


blends containing >20%
lamb’s wool:
7 200 rev.: 2-3

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H&M Quality Standards & Requirements GPQD-000208
Valid for all brands in H&M group

ISO 12945-2 Woven 2000 rev: 3


Pilling
Resistance
The test should be
- Martindale
performed before
wash. Exceptions
- Brushed fabric in 100%
cotton & cotton/synthetic
blends
- Linen blends
- Melange/Heather
Pilling to be evaluated in
“Appearance after 5 times
wash”.
ISO 13936-2 Woven, fabric weight: Seam opening: ≤ 6 mm
Seam Slippage
 220 g/m - load applied:
2

Seam according to 60 N
ready-made product  220 g/m2 - load applied:
120 N
ISO 13934-2 Woven Fabrics ≤150 gsm: 140 N
Tensile Strength
150-250 gsm: 200 N
Test
>250 gsm: 250 N
ASTM D3939 Knitted fabrics in microfibre Along wales & courses: 3
Snagging
Resistance
ISO 13937-2 Woven tops, blouses, >10 N
Tear Strength dresses, fancy jackets
General (Not applicable for fabrics
Test should be < 0 g/m2)
performed before wash
Woven bottoms >15 N
Treated denim (Not applicable for fabrics
(Scrapped or chemical < 90 g/m2)
treated) should be
tested before and after Woven jackets, coats & <150gsm: >10N
3 washing & drying other outerwear 150-200gsm: >15N
cycles >200gsm: >18N
Denim jackets and bottoms Scrapped / chemical
treated: >15N
Raw & untreated: >20N
Boy’s denim bottoms, ages
1.5-14 years (size 92 -170cl):
>20N

The requirement applies to


lowest received value, not the
mean value

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February 2020 Version 1

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H&M Quality Standards & Requirements GPQD-000208
Valid for all brands in H&M group

EN 16732 Products with zipper See table below


Zipper Test

Tests: see table below. Minimum performance code


according to end use:
• General: B
• Coats, jackets, overalls: C
• Metal zipper regardless
product: C
• Children’s products: B
(recommendation: C)

Minimum requirement per


Zipper Test performance code
All products Unit B C D E
Strength of puller attachment N 80/90* 200 250 300
Strength of closed-end N 60 80 100 140
Strength of top stop N 70/90* 90 110 130
Strength of open-end fastener box N 70/90 90 120 150
Resistance to reciprocation Cycles 500 500 500 500
Lateral strength of slide fastener N 200 250 370 470
Lateral strength of open-end N 70 90 120 160
attachment
Strength of slider locking device** N 15 25* 40 60
*
Additional requirements for Children’s products ages 0-14 years (size 44-
170cl)
Open-end slide fastener single stringer N 70
slider retention
Torque strength Nm 0.34
Additional requirements for Children’s products ages 0-3 years (size 44-98cl)
with easily grippable zipper puller
Open-end slide fastener single stringer N 90
slider retention
Torque strength Nm 0.50

*Note! If by exception B is used for children’s products, ages 0-3 years (size 44-
98cl), 90N is valid.
**For children’s sleep bags to China portion: ≥70N.

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H&M Quality Standards & Requirements GPQD-000208
Valid for all brands in H&M group

2.1.4. Safety

BS 8510 Clause 7.2 Children’s sleep bags ≤ 3,5 Tog


Thermal Max. allowed value is 3,5 TOG.
Resistance
The TOG value can vary
between 1 and 3,5 and needs
to be labeled according to test
value, rounded off to nearest
0.5 TOG.
See labelling documents for
more details.
EN 71-1 Children’s products, ages 0-3 Small parts >6mm: 90N
Pull Force Test See H&M Lab Manual years (size 44-98cl) Small parts ≤6mm: 70N

Pls note! Sequins are


non-grippable small
parts and shall instead
be tested for
Appearance after 5
times wash according to
H&M TM LA:02.

2.1.5. Swimwear: Additional Requirements


TEST STANDARD METHOD PRODUCTS REQUIREMENTS
Colour Fastness

ISO 105-E03 Swimwear fabrics Change in colour: 4


CF to Chlorinated
Concentration of chlorine including embroidery, Cross staining: 4-5
Water print etc.
50 mg/l
Swimwear in white colour Change in colour: 3-4
with OBA Cross staining: 4-5

Swimwear in neon colours Change in colour: 3


and very bright colours of Cross staining: 4-5
pink, turquoise, yellow,
purple and green

ISO 105-E02 Swimwear Colour staining: 3-4


CF to Sea Water
Change in colour: 4
Cross staining: 4-5

Modified ISO 105-E03 Metallic & plastic No major change


Appearance Test to
Concentration of chlorine decorations used on
Chlorinated Water swimwear
50 mg/l

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H&M Quality Standards & Requirements GPQD-000208
Valid for all brands in H&M group

Place the decoration in (E.g. sequins, plastic


the chlorine solution in a beads, buckles etc.)
steel container,
preferably together with
a piece of fabric of the
swimwear.

Referring to ISO 105-E02 Plastic decorations used No major change


Appearance Test to on swimwear
- Soak/place the sample
Sea Water
in a glass bowl with 3%
sodium chloride salt (E.g. sequins, plastic
solution (3% NaCl), beads, buckle etc.)
- Place the bowl in an
oven at the temp. 40°C
for 4 hours

Durability & Strength

ISO 8442-2 Metallic decorations used No corrosion


Corrosion
modified to simulate sea on swimwear
- Dip Test for
water using:
Swimwear
Decorations - 3% sodium chloride salt
solution (3% NaCl)
- Temperature 40°C
- Immerse once a minute
for 6 hours

Safety
AS/NZS 4399 Swimwear (including hats) UPF 50+
UV Protection Design requirements, see with UV protective function
separate guideline. claim.

ASTM D 6544
Washing process:
40times washing, 100AFU
and 1hour chlorine water PPE Certification needed for EU

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H&M Quality Standards & Requirements GPQD-000208
Valid for all brands in H&M group

2.2. Cashmere
TEST STANDARD METHOD PRODUCTS REQUIREMENTS
Garment Weight EN 12127 100% Cashmere Grams per whole ready piece
per size according to sealed
sample & order sheet
information
Fibre Fineness, ISO 137: Follow for test 100% Cashmere According to Brand/
see table below method Assortment requirement.
FZ/T 21003-2010:
Follow Chinese Dispersion coefficient < 24%
Cashmere codes for
material sourced from
Chinese market
Fibre Length, ISO 6989: Follow for 100% Cashmere According to Brand
see table below test method Assortment requirement.
FZ/T 21003-2010:
Follow Chinese Short fibre rate < 15%
Cashmere codes for
material sourced from Definition of short fibre:
Chinese market Fibre length ≤ 20mm

Fibre Composition ISO 17751 100% Cashmere 100 % Cashmere


The amount of fibres with a
diameter over 30 microns is
limited to below 1%.
Oil Value FZ/T 20002 100% Cashmere <1.5%

Chinese Cashmere codes for fibre fineness and fibre length as per FZ/T 21003-2010
AC (BC) XX XX
Cashmere length
Cashmere diameter
AC = White Cashmere, BC = All colors except white Cashmere

Example: AC1538 = white Cashmere, diameter code 15, length code 38.
BC1630 = coloured Cashmere, diameter code 16, length code 30.
Type Diameter Code Range of Actual Diameter in Length Code Range of Actual Length in
µm mm
AC Code 28: 28.0 and less
14 14.50 and less 28-40
(BC) Code 30: 28.1 – 30.0
AC Code 32: 30.1 – 32.0
15 14.51 - 15.50 28-40
(BC) Code 34: 32.1 – 34.0

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H&M Quality Standards & Requirements GPQD-000208
Valid for all brands in H&M group

AC Code 36: 34.1 – 36.0


16 15.51 – 16.50 28-40
(BC) Code 38: 36.1 – 38.0
AC Code 40: 38.1 and more
17 16.51 and more 28-40
(BC)

2.3. Leather
TEST STANDARD METHOD PRODUCTS REQUIREMENTS

Colour Fastness

H&M TM CF:03 Products labelled with care Colour staining after


CF to Household instructions, possible to wash 1 wash: 3-4
Laundering in water Change in colour after
1 and 5 washes: 4
Cross staining after 1 wash: 4-5

ISO 105-D01 Products labelled with “dry Change in colour: 4


CF to Dry Cleaning clean only” or dry clean as Cross staining: 4-5
optional cleaning method

EN ISO 11640 Grain leather & After 50 rubs: 3


CF to Dry Rubbing pigmented/coated split6
(total mass 500 g)
China portion
5
Face & reverse side After 50 rubs: 3-4

Suede & nubuck7 After 20 rubs: 2-3

China portion
After 50 rubs: 3

EN ISO 11640 Grain leather & After 10 rubs: 2-3


CF to Wet Rubbing pigmented/coated split
(total mass 500 g)
China portion
5
Face & reverse side After 10 rubs: 3

Suede & nubuck China portion


After 10 rubs: 2-3

Modified AATCC 163 Leather details such as labels, Colour staining: 4


CF – Dye Transfer badges, and other trims in Change in colour: 4
Option 1
in Storage contrast colours. Cross staining: 4-5

5 If the reverse side does not reach our requirement lining must be used.
6 If result is 3: warning text must be added in the care label. For H&M orders a warning hang tag must also be attached.
7 If result is 3 or 2-3: warning text must be added in the care label. For H&M orders a warning hang tag must also be

attached.

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Test specimens to be
size 4 x 10cm.

Use ISO or GB adjacent


fibre and multifibre type
DW.

ISO 105-X18 Leather products Change in colour: 4


CF to Phenolic
Use test paper and
Yellowing
control fabric from
James Heal

GB/T 18886 Children’s products, ages Colour staining: 4


CF to Saliva 0-1.5 years (size 44-92cl) Change in colour: 4
ISO multifibre type DW Cross staining: 4-5
China portion
Sampling according to Children’s products, ages
H&M Lab Manual. 0-3 years (size 44-98cl)

ISO 105-E01 or Products and Colour staining: 3-4


CF to Water GB/T 5713 Leather details such as labels, Change in colour: 4
ISO multifibre type DW badges, and other trims in
Cross staining: 4-5
contrast colours.
Sampling according to
H&M Lab Manual.

Safety
BS 8510 Clause 7.2 Children’s sleep bags ≤ 3,5 Tog
Thermal Max. allowed value is 3,5 Tog.
Resistance
The Tog value can vary
between 1 and 3,5 and needs
to be labeled according to test
value, rounded off to nearest
0.5 Tog.
See labelling documents for
more details.

EN 71-1 Children’s products, ages 0-3 Small parts >6mm: 90N


Pull Force Test See H&M Lab Manual years (size 44-98cl) Small parts ≤6mm: 70N
Durability & Strength

ISO 3377-2 Leather products 30 N


Tear Strength
EN ISO 13934-1 Underwear and swimwear Plastic ring and slider: 60 N
Ring and slider bras, corsets and bustiers. Metal ring and slider: 90 N
tensile strength
EN 16732 Products with zipper See table below
Zipper Test
Minimum performance code
according to end use:

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Tests: see table below. • General: B


• Coats, jackets, overalls: C
• Children’s products: B
(recommendation: C)

Minimum requirement per


Zipper Test performance code
All products Unit B C D E
Strength of puller attachment N 80/90* 200 250 300
Strength of closed-end N 60 80 100 140
Strength of top stop N 70/90* 90 110 130
Strength of open-end fastener box N 70/90 90 120 150
Resistance to reciprocation Cycles 500 500 500 500
Lateral strength of slide fastener N 200 250 370 470
Lateral strength of open-end attachment N 70 90 120 160
Strength of slider locking device N 15 25 40 60
Additional requirements for Children’s products ages 0-14 years (size 44-170cl)
Open-end slide fastener single stringer slider N 70
retention
Torque strength Nm 0.34
Additional requirements for Children’s products ages 0-3 years (size 44-98cl) with easily
grippable zipper puller
Open-end slide fastener single stringer slider N 90
retention
Torque strength Nm 0.50

*Note! If by exception B is used for children’s products, ages 0-3 years (size 44-98cl), 90N is
valid.

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2.4. Flammability
General Requirements
TEST STANDARD METHOD PRODUCTS REQUIREMENT

16 CFR 1610 Adult’s apparel Time of flame spread:


Flammability Test
– General Ignition time: 1 second Plain surfaced fabrics:
Mean value >5 seconds.
Requirements for Note! All qualities must Individual specimens must not burn faster than 4 sec.
nightwear; fulfil H&M’s
See next page. requirements. Raised surfaced fabrics:
Mean value >7 seconds.
Synthetics are NOT Individual specimens must not burn faster than 6 sec.
excluded from testing If surface flash occurs, it must not reach the marker thread (SF uc = fail).
as mentioned in 16 CFR
1610. Children’s apparel, Time of flame spread:
ages 0-14 years, size 44-170 cl
Fabrics in all weights except nightwear Plain surfaced fabrics:
are subject to testing. Mean value >7 seconds.
Individual specimens must not burn faster than 6 sec.

Raised surfaced fabrics:


Mean value >7 seconds.
Individual specimens must not burn faster than 6 sec.
If surface flash occurs, it must not reach the marker thread (SF uc = fail).

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2.4.1. Children’s Nightwear


The following table will show what product type needs to be tested according to what standard method and category/class for different markets. Some
products may fall under different categories/classes in a standard depending on design and test results. The given category/class below is the one H&M has
chosen to work with to simplify.
All countries NOT mentioned in the table will have to follow requirements for EU portion. All nightwear garments not mentioned below should be
considered new products and will have to be assessed by GPCD for approval. Products marked with ‘Not Nightwear’ are also ok but will need to follow the
requirements for general apparel.
OK to buy Not OK to buy Could be OK but with certain restrictions (design, size etc)

Product Picture EU GB US CA AU/NZ


Pyjama 2-piece EN 14878, class B EN 14878, class B 16 CFR 1610 CAN/CGSB 4.2 AS/NZS
jersey No.27.5 1249:2014
(plain fabric) category 2

Pyjama 2-piece EN 14878, class B EN 14878, class B Not OK to buy Not OK to buy AS/NZS
woven 1249:2014
(plain fabric) category 2

Pyjama 2-piece EN 14878, class B EN 14878, class B Not OK to buy Not OK to buy AS/NZS
woven 1249:2014
(raised surface) category 2

Ex. Flanellette
Pyjama 2-piece EN 14878, class B EN 14878, class B Not OK to buy Not OK to buy AS/NZS
knitted 1249:2014
(raised surface) category 2

Ex. Velour

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Product Picture EU GB US CA AU/NZ


Pyjama 1-piece EN 14878, class B EN 14878, class B 16 CFR 1610 CAN/CGSB 4.2 AS/NZS
(plain fabric) No.27.5 1249:201
4
category 2

Pyjama 1-piece EN 14878, class B EN 14878, class B Not OK to buy Not OK to buy AS/NZS
(raised surface) 1249:201
4
category 2
(size 98-158)
category 3
Nightgown/ EN 14878, class A Not OK to buy Not OK to buy Not OK to buy Not
(sizeOK to buy
68-92)
nightdress

Nightshirt EN 14878, class A Not OK to buy Not OK to buy Not OK to buy Not OK to buy

Dressing gown EN 14878, class A BS 5722, 16 CFR 1610 CAN/CGSB 4.2 AS/NZS
(polyester fleece) refurbishing (up to and incl. No.27.5 1249:201
according to BS size 74 only, (up to and incl. 4
5651 larger sizes not size 74 only, category 1
(size 62–182) ok) larger sizes not
ok)

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Bath robe EN 14878, class A EN 14878, class 16 CFR 1610 CAN/CGSB 4.2 Not OK to buy
(cotton terry) A (size 68-182) (up to and incl. No.27.5
size 74cl only, (up to and incl.
larger sizes not size 74cl only,
ok) larger sizes not
ok)
Product Picture EU GB US CA AU/NZ
Bath robe EN 14878, class A BS 5722, 16 CFR 1610 CAN/CGSB 4.2 AS/NZS
(50/50 refurbishing (up to and incl. No.27.5 1249:201
cotton/synthetic) according to BS size 74 only, (up to and incl. 4
5651 larger sizes not size 74 only, category 1
(size 62–182) ok) larger sizes not
ok)
Long johns see pyjama 2- see pyjama 2- Not nightwear Not nightwear see pyjama 2-
piece piece piece
Test as general Test as general
apparel apparel
Homewear see pyjama 2- see pyjama 2- Not OK to buy Not OK to buy see pyjama 2-
piece piece piece

Camisole and pants see pyjama 2- see pyjama 2- see pyjama 2- see pyjama 2- see pyjama 2-
woven or knitted piece piece piece piece piece

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Children's santa see nightgown see nightgown see nightgown see nightgown see nightgown
costume/gingerbread and pyjamas 2- and pyjamas 2- and pyjamas 2- and pyjamas 2- and pyjamas 2-
costume piece piece piece piece piece

Bath poncho Not nightwear Not nightwear Not nightwear Not nightwear Not nightwear
(without armholes)
Test as home No flammability No flammability Test as home No flammability
interior textile testing needed testing needed interior textile testing needed
product since classified as since classified as product since classified as
Product Picture EU towel GB towel US CA towelAU/NZ
Bath poncho (with Not nightwear Not nightwear Not nightwear Not nightwear Not OK to buy
armholes)
Test as home No flammability No flammability Test as home
interior textile testing needed testing needed interior textile
product since classified as since classified as product
towel towel
Boxer shorts (tight see pyjama 2- see pyjama 2- Not nightwear Not nightwear see pyjama 2-
fitting, jersey) piece piece piece
Test as general Test as general
apparel apparel

Boxer shorts (loose see pyjama 2- see pyjama 2- Not nightwear Not nightwear see pyjama 2-
fitting, woven) piece piece piece
Test as general Test as general
apparel apparel

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Tank tops, T-shirts see pyjama 2- see pyjama 2- Not nightwear Not nightwear see pyjama 2-
piece piece piece
Test as general Test as general
apparel apparel

Onesie - day wear Not nightwear Not nightwear Not nightwear Not nightwear AS/NZS
(in pile or nap) 1249:2014
Test as general Test as general Test as general Test as general category 3
apparel apparel apparel apparel (size 68-92)

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Product Picture EU GB US CA AU NZ
Baby body/ Not nightwear Not nightwear Not nightwear Not nightwear AS/NZS Not nightwear
romper/onesie 1249:200
- daywear Test as general Test as general Test as general Test as general 3 Test as general
(plain fabric) apparel apparel apparel apparel category 3 apparel
(size 68-92)

Fabric weight
<280 g/m2
Baby sleep bag EU portion EN 14878, class A 16 CFR 1610 16 CFR 1610 Not OK to buy Not OK to buy
(closed at bottom) ISO 12952-1
Not nightwear Not nightwear
Not nightwear
Test refers to Test refers to
Test refers to general apparel general apparel
bedding

STANDARD METHOD PRODUCTS REQUIREMENTS

16 CFR 1610 Children’s snug fit Same as general apparel requirement according to 16 CFR 1610
pyjama, ages 9 months–
14 years,
(size 80-170cl)
according to above table
CAN/CGSB 4.2 No.27.5 Children’s snug fit Same as general apparel requirement according to 16 CFR 1610
pyjama, ages 9 months–
14 years,
(size 80-170cl)
according to above table

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ISO 12952-1 Baby sleep bags, ages 0–3 EU portion


Cigarette test years, (size 44-98cl) No ignition

STANDARD METHOD PRODUCTS REQUIREMENTS

EN 14878 Children’s nightwear,


ages 6 months – 14 Class Parameters Minimum requirements
years
(size 68-182) A Surface flash No surface flash
according to above table Time of flame 3rd marker thread (520 mm) not severed
spread in less than 15 s
Children’s nightwear, B Surface flash No surface flash
Size 44-62 shall be tested according
to general flammability Time of flame 3rd marker thread (520 mm) not severed
requirements for children’s apparel spread in less than 10 s

BS 5722, Children’s nightwear, Each test specimens should meet the requirements for time of flame
refurbishing according ages 6 months – 14 spread: 25 seconds or more for a distance of 300 mm and/or
to BS 5651 years
50 seconds or more for a distance of 600 mm
(size 68-182)
according to above table

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STANDARD METHOD PRODUCTS REQUIREMENTS


AS/NZS 1249:2014 Children’s
Minimum
nightwear, ages 0- Category Application Parameters requirements
14 years,
(size 44–170cl) and sleep 1 Fabric, plain Flame spread time The mean flame spread
bags according to above Raised surface fabric time between the 1st
table
and 3rd marker threads
≥12 s
Fabric, plain Melt/drip testing (where
Shall notallburn
test aspecimens
length of
Raised surface fabric 20 must
mm orburn more ≥10 s)
if filter
paper ignites
Raised surface fabric Surface ≥10 s
burning
time
2 Fabric, plain Measureme No test needed as
• 2-piece pyjama nt long as
• Knitted all-in- requiremen measurement
ones (size98- ts requirements for
158cl) Cat 2 are fulfilled
Raised surface fabric Measurement
• 2-piece pyjama requirements
• Knitted all-in-
and
ones (size98-
158cl) Surface burning >10 s
time
3 Raised surface fabric Surface >10 s
• Knitted all-in- burning
ones (size 68- time
92cl)

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Changes Since Last Update

Date Change
April 2014 • ISO multifibre type DW used for all CF tests instead of GB single adjacent
fibre
• CF to Oil changed method to in-house rubbing method. Now named CF to Oil
Rubbing H&M TM CF:04
• CF to dry rubbing: Exceptions: - “Wool in rough structure” deleted as it was
only applicable for felted hats
• “Appearance after 5 times wash” is changed to “Appearance after wash”.
• “Cashmere: Additional Requirements” added
• CF to Light: General requirement added.
• CF to Ozone: Requirement added for indigo dyed apparel.
November • Tearing requirement for woven jackets, coats & other outerwear:
2014 >200gsm: >18N (previously >20N)
• Tearing requirement for denim: specified as for denim jacket & bottoms. For
other products in denim pls see the woven fabric requirement. (For example
for a denim shirt the regular woven requirement for shirts of <10N applies.)
• Stretch & Recovery: Added “shaping” to the super stretch requirement.
(Woven fabrics with elastane labeled as “super stretch” or “shaping”.)
• CF to Dry Rubbing (textile): Simplified footnote about warning text in care
label and on hang tag.
• CF to Dry Rubbing (leather): added footnote about warning text and hang
tag.
• Fabric Weight test and requirement added for textile products.
• Leather/CF to Water & CF – dye transfer in storage: added to be clarified
valid for leather details.
• CF to Wet Rubbing: Update and clarification of China portion requirement
according to new standard for children’s products. Ties & belts requirement
has been moved into QS&R Part 6: Accessories.
• Leather: CF to Dry &Wet Rubbing: Added clarification of total mass being
500 g.
May 2015 • Deviation of Fibre Content: updated requirement.
• CF to Dry Rubbing: added exception for pigment prints
• CF to Artificial Light - Xenon Test : Socks and tights added to exceptions.
• Dimensional Stability to Household Laundering: socks and tights are added
to exclusions.
• Leather/CF to Water & CF – dye transfer in storage: Leather details clarified
to be “such as labels, badges, and other trims in contrast colours”.
May 2016 • Zipper Test: Updated standard test method and requirements.

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• CF to Wet Rubbing: Updated requirement on children’s products for China


portion. Added definition of “light colour”.
• Twisting: Specified the scope of 1 cm.
• CF to Dry Rubbing: Children’s size group has been revised for indigo &
pigment dye.
• Dimensional Stability to Household Laundering: Requirement for Jersey top,
Bottom etc. has been changed to 5 % after 1 & 5 washes for all brands.
• CF to Household Laundering: lower limit has been set for colour staining due
to dark colours.
• Corrosion - Salt Spray Test: Added new test method for metal parts on
apparel.
• Stretch & Recovery: Requirement added for super stretch children’s denim.
• Appearance of Fabric & Seam: product group has been specified.
• Flammability test – General:
o Ignition time changed to 1 sec for both plain and raised surface fabrics.
o Changed to two fabric categories “plain surfaced fabrics” and “raised surfaced
fabrics”. Definitions added in QS&R Part 1 – Introduction.
o Disguise costumes for US and CA portion has been removed from 16 CFR 1610
for general apparel since it is already included in QS&R part 11 – Toys, under
requirement for ASTM F963 since disguise costumes are classified as toys.
Amendment • Children’s nightwear flammability: chapter re-written to clarify which
2016:1 requirements are needed for which product types and markets.
May 2017 • Zipper Test: For children’s products performance code C is recommended,
but the minimum requirement is B.
• Children’s nightwear flammability:
o The re-written chapter from the 2016:1 Amendment added.
o Updated information for US and Canada regarding: long johns, tank tops, t-
shirts, boxer shorts (tight fitting, jersey) and boxer shorts (loose fitting,
woven).
o AS/NZS 1249:2014: Category 4 option has been removed (previously an
option for dressing gowns in polyester fleece and bath robes in 50/50
cotton/synthetic). Category 1 shall be followed.
• Thermal resistance for baby sleep bags: Added to QS&R Apparel as well to be
more clear. Has only been mentioned in QS&R Part 4 before.
• CF to Wet Rubbing: Requirement updated for China portion:
o Requirement for children’s products, ages 4-14 years (104-170cl) with direct
skin contact has been removed.
• Dimensional Stability to Household Laundering: Requirement updated on
below compositions & constructions:
o Jersey fabrics ≤130 gsm in viscose, modal, lyocell, linen, silk (with/without
elastane).
o Rib, waffle, interlock & fancy structure for all compositions.
• CF to household laundering: Added the required wash temperature on
polyester colour staining part.
• Pull force test: Requirement from QS&R for Children’s safety has been added
here as well to clarify. Textile apparel with sequins shall instead be tested for

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5 times wash to secure attachment of the sequins since they are non-
grippable small parts.
May 2018 • Children’s nightwear flammability: Requirements valid only for AU have
been removed and replaced with AU/NZ requirements. Both markets now
refer to the 2014-version of the standard. FR portion for baby sleepbags has
been changed to EU portion.
• Bursting Strength: ISO 13938-1 has been removed. Only ISO 13938-2 can be
used for H&M product.
• Zipper Test: Option added for metal zipper.
• CF to Ozon: Change of requirement

Version history table


Version Date Valid from Changes made Page or Chapter
1 February 2019 April 2019 Implemented in new documents -
handling routine.
Stretch & recovery: Requirement Page 9
updated.
Added info about Thermal Page 17
Resistance value TOG.
CF to rubbing: Expanded the Page 4
requirement for placement print
to include whole product and not
only front print.
CF to wet rubbing: Clarification of Page 5
China requirements.
June 2019 Few corrections
1 February 2020 February 2020 The document has changed ID
number, therefor version 1 again
UV protection is changed due to new
requirements
CF to Artificial light – Xenon test: Page 3
Changed requirement/blue wool ref
CF to Household laundering: New Page 3
requirements for,
- Cross staining,
- Denim
- “Stay black/Stay blue denim Page 4
CF to Dry rubbing: Added linen Page 5
mix/brushed material.

CF – Dye Transfer to storage: Page 7


Clarification of test area/part of
product.

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CF to Hot pressing: Clarification of Page 7


test area/part of product.
CF to Phenolic yellowing: Added Page 7
Consumables requirement and
colour definition.
Dimensional stability for Household Page 8
laundering: woven requirement
removed and replaced by defined
exception.
Stretch & Recovery: Defined req for Page 11
UW/SW
Stretch & Recovery: Updated Page 12
requirements for woven, labelled
super stretch/embrace/shaping
Stretch & Recovery: Added Page 12
requirements for Jersey products
2.2 Cashmere: Updated requirement Page 18
2.3 Leather- CF to Phenolic Page 20
yellowing: Added Consumables
requirement.

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General Information

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