You are on page 1of 22

Fabric Performance Standards

Quality Assurance and Development (QAD)


Valid for all products sold in C&A stores

QAD / V 1 June 2016


C&A Fabric Performance Standards QAD / V 1 June 2016

FABRIC PERFORMANCE STANDARDS


RESPONSIBILITIES and UPDATE STATUS

Document owner: Jonty Wilson


Title: Head of Quality Assurance & Development
Approved by: Jonty Wilson - Head of Quality Assurance & Development
David Millar - Head of Fabric, Yarn & Components

Authors:
Peter Knaden Product Standard Engineer
Petra Fausten Laboratory Manager

Affected Parties and Departments:


Quality Assurance and Development Department (QAD) License Partners
Sourcing QAS / Merchandising Teams SSC (Sustainable Supply Chain)
Fabric and Yarn Sourcing SCM (Sustainable Chemical Management)
Buying Department GSM (Global Sourcing Management)
European Legal Department SSC (SOCAM) (Sustainable Supply Chain)
COTAB (Coordination Office for Technical Assistant to Buying) TS (Technical Service)
Marketing Department PD&D (Product Development and Design)
Countries - QS (Quality & Safety) Nominees C&A Authorized Laboratories
All C&A Suppliers / Manufacturers

Version Date Modifications Page


01 1 June 2016 All new all
--> see also Important Notes on
4
INTRODUCTION page

2
C&A PROPRIETARY AND CONFIDENTIAL INFORMATION
C&A Fabric Performance Standards QAD / V 1 June 2016

TABLE OF CONTENT
Page

INTRODUCTION 4

C&A FABRIC GROUPS OVERVIEW 5

C&A FABRIC STANDARDS WOVENS 6-9

C&A FABRIC STANDARDS KNITS 10 -11

FURTHER REQUIREMENT for CASHMERE or SPECIALITY FIBRES CONTAINING FABRICS 12

C&A PERFORMANCE CLAIM TABLE 13

C&A INVESTIGATION TABLE 14

C&A PERFORMANCE STANDARDS - TEST METHODS 15 - 16


ABBREVIATIONS 16

C&A AUTHORIZED LABORATORIES 17

C&A CONTACTS 17

C&A IN-HOUSE TEST METHODS 18 - 22

3
C&A PROPRIETARY AND CONFIDENTIAL INFORMATION
C&A Fabric Performance Standards QAD / V 1 June 2016

INTRODUCTION
GENERAL INFORMATION

This manual describes the C&A Fabric Performance Standards with detailed product requirements and testing specifications.

C&A has legal obligations to ensure that product sold in our stores is safe, legally compliant and meets the quality expectations of our customers. As a valued C&A supplier it is
your responsibility to be fully aware of the content of this manual, and comply to the requirements for products supplied to C&A. Suppliers must use them to ensure that the
required quality levels of ready-made garments are achieved. References have been made to European or International Standard testing methods, and additionally to C&A In-
House Testing Methods which are part of this manual.

The requirements set in this manual are vaild for fabrics after the final production treatment (e.g. final washing, impregnation, etc.). However the requirements can also be used as
a guide for product development so that the testing can be done earlier in the process to ensure the final product complies.

In addition to the standards in this manual suppliers must also comply with the appropriate sections of the C&A Clothing Performance Standards, the C&A Chemical Policy (RSL
& MRSL), the C&A Product Safety Policy and legal requirements especially but non-exclusively Fibre Composition Labelling.

All requirements set in this manual are valid for C&A orders written from 01.12.2016 onwards.

It is essential for C&A that only safe, legal and good quality products are offered to the C&A customers.
In order to ensure compliance with the standards it is imperative that all your suppliers of components for the manufacture of C&A merchandise be aware of our, and therefore,
your requirements. You are strongly advised to proactively use C&A Authorized ISO 17025 accredited laboratories and ensure your suppliers also have test reports available to
demonstrate compliance to this manual. Whatever your agreements with your suppliers may be concerning testing procedures on components, we always recommend that you,
independently and regularly test your incoming merchandise for compliance to the C&A standards to avoid any issues appearing later on in production.
click here for authorized labs
Through the C&A Due Diligence programme, we do reserve the right to test product prior and/or after shipment to verify compliance.

IMPORTANT NOTES
This fabric manual supersedes any previous C&A fabric performance standards documents.
ADDITIONAL TESTS to be defined case by case depending on intentional use, product's design.
PERFORMANCE CLAIM TABLE includes additional requirements for Marketing Messages.
C&A In-House Test Methods are included in this manual.

Colour Fastness tests must be done using Multifibre LyoW™ (Lyocell)

There is a general link to C&A Chemical Policy (RSL & MRSL) and C&A Product Safety Requirements on each Performance Standard table.
If a combination of both woven and knitted fabrics are used together in a final garment, the stricter requirements will apply.
If contrast coloured components are planned to be combined within one product special attention regarding colour fastness properties is essential in order to avoid cross staining
issues in final product.

DEFINITIONS for SPECIFIC FABRICS / SURFACES

pile fabrics = fabrics with a surface which is made of upright loops or yarn strands, e.g. corduroy, velvet, plush, nicki
raised fabrics = fabrics with a surface that was roughened by mechanical agitation, e.g. flannels, peached fabrics, brushed fabrics
blends = each fabric made of by more than 1 fibre type, e.g. 99% cotton, 1% elastane

4
C&A PROPRIETARY AND CONFIDENTIAL INFORMATION
C&A Fabric Performance Standards QAD / V 1 June 2016

C&A FABRIC GROUPS OVERVIEW


Fabric Groups Products covered Page
WOVEN FABRICS
W01 woven fabrics made of:
100% cotton, cotton/elastane and blends with primary composition of cotton
100% cellulosics (e.g. viscose, lyocell) and blends with primary composition of cellulosics
100% linen and linen blends, including ramie / hemp 6

100% synthetics and blends with primary composition of synthetics


100% wool and blends with primary composition of wool
100% silk and blends with primary composition of silk
W02 denim fabrics (indigo, sulphur or pigment dyed; rigid and stretch) 7

W03 pile fabrics (all types as corduroy, velvet, velveteen, etc.) 8

W04 woven and knitted lining fabrics (all types, all compositions) 9
KNITTED FABRICS K01 circular knitted fabrics made of:
100% cotton and blends, including CVC
10
100% cellulosics (e.g. viscose, lyocell) and blends with primary composition of cellulosics
100% synthetics and blends with primary composition of synthetics
K02 flat knitted fabrics made of:
100% cotton and blends
100% celluloscis (e.g. viscose, lyocell) and blends with primary composition of cellulosics
100% linen and linen blends, including ramie / hemp 11

100% synthetics and blends with primary composition of synthetics


100% wool and blends with primary component of wool
100% silk and blends with primary component of silk

5
C&A PROPRIETARY AND CONFIDENTIAL INFORMATION
C&A Fabric Performance Standards QAD / V 1 June 2016

W01: WOVEN FABRICS


100% cotton, cotton/elastane and blends with primary composition of cotton
100% cellulosics (e.g. viscose, lyocell) and blends with primary composition of cellulosics
100% linen and linen blends, including ramie / hemp
100% synthetics and blends with primary composition of synthetics
100% wool and blends with primary composition of wool
100% silk and blends with primary composition of silk
ALL FABRICS MUST COMPLY WITH THE C&A CHEMICAL POLICY (RSL & MRSL) + PRODUCT SAFETY POLICY
Any fabric for garments and accessories with a performance claim or marketing message should also comply with the appropriate test(s) in the C&A Performance Claim table: CLAIM Table
TEST METHOD REQUIREMENTS COMMENTS
In accordance with EU Regulation
Fibre Composition MUST COMPLY additional info for cashmere and other speciality fibres
1007/2011
for fabrics in its final stage:
-3% / +2% length & width
Washing Performance Test

-5%/+3% length & width for blends with viscose


Manual for Care Codes and Instruction of ready-made-
CA TM 01 for stretch fabrics: garments to be followed for washing and drying temperature.
Dimensional Stability
(referencing -1% to -8% for stretch fabrics with elongation of <25%
ISO 6330) -8% to -14% for superstretch fabrics with elongation of ≥25% blends with viscose: tumble dry not recommended
Mill will establish/declare shrinkage based on development test results (tolerance
±2%)

Appearance Satisfactory
for professional care items only;
±2% length & width
Dry Cleaning Professional Dry/Wet Cleaning appearance to be assessed by use of CA TM 01 appearance
satisfactory appearance
table
4 dry
3 dry for fade-out, prints, pile or pigment dyed fabrics
Colour Fastness to Rubbing ISO 105-X12 required for all colour ways, except white
3-4 wet
2 wet for heavy shades, fade-out, prints, pile or pigment dyed fabrics
ISO 105-C06
Change 4
A2S for 40°C or
Colour Fastness to Washing Staining 4 (2-3 on PA for heavy shades, prints, pile or pigment dyed fabrics) required for all colour ways, except white
C2S for 60°C
Contrast Colours: Change 4 (white 4-5), Staining 4-5
ref. Care Instruction
Change 4
Colour Fastness to Water ISO 105-E01 Staining 4 (2-3 on PA for heavy shades, prints, pile or pigment dyed fabrics) required for all colour ways, except white
Contrast Colours: Change 4 (white 4-5), Staining 4-5
Change 4
Colour Fastness to Perspiration ISO 105-E04 Staining 4 (2-3 on PA for heavy shades, prints, pile or pigment dyed fabrics) required for all colour ways, except white
Contrast Colours: Change 4 (white 4-5), Staining 4-5
4 all shades + white
ISO 105-B02,
Colour Fastness to Light 3 for neons
Method 3, blue scale grades
2-3 for pink neon shades

ISO 105-E03 only for swimwear & non-swim beachwear /-items; required
Colour Fastness to Chlorinated
50mg/l for swimwear change 4 for all colour ways, some neon colours might not achieve
Water
20mg/l for non-swim beachwear /-items grade 4 and need to be agreed with QAD/QAS beforehand

only for swimwear & non-swim beachwear /-items; required


Colour Fastness to Sea Water ISO 105-E02 change 4
for all colour ways
Colour Fastness to Saliva and BVL B 82.92-3
fast (grade 4-5) fabrics intended for baby items up to size 98
Sweat BVL B 82.02-13
Change 4
Colour Fastness to Dry
ISO 105-D01 Staining 3-4 dry cleanable items only
Cleaning
Contrast Colours: Change 4 (white 4-5), Staining 4-5
Fabric Weight EN 12127 ±5% deviation to requested fabric weight
≤90 g/m² 91-160 g/m² 161-250 g/m² 251-340 g/m² >340 g/m²
Tensile Force ISO 13934-2 100N 140N 200N 230N 300N
Tear Force (Elmendorf) ISO 13937-1 6N 10N 12N 15N 20N
garment seam construction to be adjusted based on
ISO 13936-1 (all except stretch fabrics)
Seam Slippage 70N 90N 110N 120N 160N development garment test results
ISO 139136-2 (stretch fabrics only)
6 mm seam opening
Abrasion Resistance -
ISO 12947-2 N/A 10,000 revs 15,000 revs 18,000 revs 20,000 revs all linen, linen blends + tencel: 8,000 revs
Martindale
EN 14704-1 elongation of <25%: minimum recovery of ≥95%
Elastic Behaviour (wovens)
Method A (strip test) elongation of ≥25%: minimum recovery of ≥92%
for flat fabrics for raised fabrics
revs
grade grade
125 3-4 3-4
Pilling Behaviour - Martindale ISO 12945-2
500 3-4 3
1,000 3-4 2-3
2,000 3-4 N/A

ADDITIONAL TESTING upon C&A REQUEST

Endurance Wash Test for


for embellished and printed products / fabrics only;
attachments and prints Please refer to C&A Product Safety
Satisfactory wash at care label temperature;
(pigment, foil, foam, motif, Requirements: C.3.3
number of washes agreed between parties
flock,etc.)

Spirality ISO 16322-2 max. 3% to be performed as part of CA TM 01 if requested

Snagging (ICI Mace Snag


ASTM D 3939 grade 3 @ 600 revs filament yarns only
Tester)

6
C&A PROPRIETARY AND CONFIDENTIAL INFORMATION
C&A Fabric Performance Standards QAD / V 1 June 2016

W02: denim fabrics (indigo, sulphur or pigment dyed; rigid and stretch)
ALL FABRICS MUST COMPLY WITH THE C&A CHEMICAL POLICY (RSL & MRSL) + PRODUCT SAFETY POLICY
Any fabric for garments and accessories with a performance claim or marketing message should also comply with the appropriate test(s) in the C&A Performance Claim table: CLAIM Table

TEST METHOD REQUIREMENTS COMMENTS

In accordance with EU
Fibre Composition MUST COMPLY additional info for cashmere and other speciality fibres
Regulation 1007/2011

0 to -4% for all non-stretch fabrics (warp & weft way)


Washing Performance Test

3 washing/drying cycles to be completed (60oC)


for stretch fabrics:
Dimensional Stability CA TM 01 @ 60oC -1% to -8% for stretch farbics with elongation <25%
(referencing Note: In garment form the dimensional stability requirements of -3%/+2% length &
-8% to -14% for super stretch fabrics with elongation ≥25%
ISO 6330 - 6N) width will be applied.
Mill will establish/declare shrinkage based on development test
results (tolerance ±2%)

Appearance Satisfactory

Spirality ISO 16322-2 max. 3%

Professional Dry/Wet ±2% length & width for professional care items only;
Dry Cleaning
Cleaning satisfactory appearance appearance to be assessed by use of CA TM 01 appearance table

Colour Fastness to Rubbing ISO 105-X12 as received + after 1 wash: 3-4 dry / 1-2 wet wash cycle referencing ISO 6330 - 6N

ISO 105-C06
Change 4
A2S for 40°C or garment washing is mandatory with these fabrics and to confirm these parameters after
Colour Fastness to Washing Staining 4 (2-3 on PA for heavy shades, pigment dyed fabrics)
C2S for 60°C testing the washed garment
Contrast Colours: Change 4 (white 4-5), Staining 4-5
ref. Care Instruction

Change 4
garment washing is mandatory with these fabrics and to confirm these parameters after
Colour Fastness to Water ISO 105-E01 Staining 4 (2-3 on PA for heavy shades, pigment dyed fabrics)
testing the washed garment
Contrast Colours: Change 4 (white 4-5), Staining 4-5

Change 4
garment washing is mandatory with these fabrics and to confirm these parameters after
Colour Fastness to Perspiration ISO 105-E04 Staining 4 (2-3 on PA for heavy shades, pigment dyed fabrics)
testing the washed garment
Contrast Colours: Change 4 (white 4-5), Staining 4-5

BVL B 82.92-3
Colour Fastness to Saliva and Sweat fast (grade 4-5) fabrics intended for baby items up to size 98
BVL B 82.02-13

Fabric Weight EN 12127 ±5% before and after washing deviation to requested fabric weight

<6 oz/yd² 6-7.9 oz/yd² 8-11.5 oz/yd² >11.5 oz/yd²


<200 g/m² 201-270 g/m² 271-390 g/m² >390 g/m²

warp weft warp weft warp weft warp weft

Tensile Force ISO 13934-2 200N 150N 300N 200N 550N 300N 650N 400N not relevant for stretch direction

Tear Force (Elmendorf) ISO 13937-1 12N 10N 20N 15N 35N 25N 40N 30N

ISO 13936-1 (all except


stretch fabrics) garment seam construction to be adjusted based on development garment test results
Seam Slippage 90N 110N 120N 160N
ISO 139136-2 (stretch 6mm seam opening
fabrics only)

Abrasion Resistance - Martindale ISO 12947-2 10,000 revs 15,000 revs 18,000 revs 20,000 revs

EN 14704-1 elongation of <25%: minimum recovery of ≥95%


Elastic Behaviour (wovens) test in direction of elastane
Method A (strip test) elongation of ≥25%: minimum recovery of ≥92%

ADDITIONAL TESTING upon C&A REQUEST

Change 4
Colour Fastness to Dry Cleaning ISO 105-D01 Staining 3-4 dry cleanable items only
Contrast Colours: Change 4 (white 4-5), Staining 4-5
ISO 105-B02
4
Colour Fastness to Light Method 3, blue scale high risk products only (e.g. shorts)
3 for neons (2-3 for pink neon shades)
grades

Endurance Wash Test for attachments Please refer to C&A


for embellished and printed products / fabrics only;
and prints (pigment, foil, foam, motif, Product Safety Satisfactory
wash at care label temperature; number of washes agreed between parties
flock,etc.) Requirements: C.3.3

7
C&A PROPRIETARY AND CONFIDENTIAL INFORMATION
C&A Fabric Performance Standards QAD / V 1 June 2016

W03: pile & suede fabrics (all types as corduroy, velvet, velveteen, etc.)
ALL FABRICS MUST COMPLY WITH THE C&A CHEMICAL POLICY (RSL & MRSL) + PRODUCT SAFETY POLICY
Any fabric for garments and accessories with a performance claim or marketing message should also comply with the appropriate test(s) in the C&A Performance Claim table: CLAIM Table

TEST METHOD REQUIREMENTS COMMENTS

In accordance with EU additional info for cashmere and other speciality


Fibre Composition MUST COMPLY
Regulation 1007/2011 fibres

viscose blends measured before ironing


Washing Performance

Dimensional Stability CA TM 01 -3% / +2% length & width Manual for Care Codes and Instruction of ready-
Test

(referencing made-garments to be followed for washing and


ISO 6330) drying temperature.

Appearance Satisfactory

for professional care items only;


Professional Dry/Wet ±2% length & width
Dry Cleaning appearance to be assessed by use of CA TM 01
Cleaning satisfactory appearance
appearance table
4 dry
3 dry for fade-out, prints, pile or pigment dyed fabrics
Colour Fastness to Rubbing ISO 105-X12 required for all colour ways, except white
3-4 wet
2 wet for heavy shades, fade-out, prints, pile or pigment dyed fabrics
ISO 105-C06 Change 4
A2S for 40°C or
Colour Fastness to Washing Staining 4 (2-3 on PA for heavy shades, prints, pile or pigment dyed fabrics) required for all colour ways, except white
C2S for 60°C
Contrast Colours: Change 4 (white 4-5), Staining 4-5
ref. Care Instruction

Change 4
Colour Fastness to Water ISO 105-E01 Staining 4 (2-3 on PA for heavy shades, prints, pile or pigment dyed fabrics) required for all colour ways, except white
Contrast Colours: Change 4 (white 4-5), Staining 4-5

Change 4
Colour Fastness to Perspiration ISO 105-E04 Staining 4 (2-3 on PA for heavy shades, prints, pile or pigment dyed fabrics) required for all colour ways, except white
Contrast Colours: Change 4 (white 4-5), Staining 4-5

ISO 105-B02, 4 all shades + white


Colour Fastness to Light Method 3, blue scale 3 for neons
grades 2-3 for pink neon shades

Change 4
Colour Fastness to Dry
ISO 105-D01 Staining 3-4 dry cleanable items only
Cleaning
Contrast Colours: Change 4 (white 4-5), Staining 4-5

Colour Fastness to Saliva and BVL B 82.92-3


fast (grade 4-5) fabrics intended for baby items up to size 98
Sweat BVL B 82.02-13

Fabric Weight EN 12127 ±5% deviation to requested fabric weight

≤90 g/m² ≤160 g/m² 161-250 g/m² 251-340 g/m² >340 g/m²

Tensile Force ISO 13934-2 100N 140N 200N 230N 300N not relevant for stretch direction

Tear Force (Elmendorf) ISO 13937-1 6N 10N 12N 15N 20N

ISO 13936-1 (all


except stretch garment seam construction to be adjusted based
Seam Slippage fabrics) 70N 90N 110N 120N 160N on development garment test results
ISO 139136-2 (stretch 6mm seam opening
fabrics only)

Abrasion Resistance -
ISO 12947-2 10,000 revs: no visible loss of pile
Martindale

EN 14704-1 elongation of <25%: minimum recovery of ≥95%


Elastic Behaviour
Method A (strip test) elongation of ≥25%: minimum recovery of ≥92%

ADDITIONAL TESTING upon C&A REQUEST

Spirality ISO 16322-2 max. 3% to be performed as part of CA TM 01 if requested

revs grade

125 3-4 for synthetic intimate blended fabrics for formal


Pilling Behaviour - Martindale ISO 12945-2
500 3-4 wear (blazer, shirts, trousers, skirts)
1,000 3-4
2,000 3-4
Endurance Wash Test for for embellished and printed products / fabrics
Please refer to C&A
attachments and prints only;
Product Safety Satisfactory
(pigment, foil, foam, motif, wash at care label temperature;
Requirements: C.3.3
flock,etc.) number of washes agreed between parties

8
C&A PROPRIETARY AND CONFIDENTIAL INFORMATION
C&A Fabric Performance Standards QAD / V 1 June 2016

W04: woven and knitted lining fabrics (all types, all compositions)
ALL FABRICS MUST COMPLY WITH THE C&A CHEMICAL POLICY (RSL & MRSL) + PRODUCT SAFETY POLICY
Any fabric for garments and accessories with a performance claim or marketing message should also comply with the appropriate test(s) in the C&A Performance Claim table: CLAIM Table

TEST METHOD REQUIREMENTS COMMENTS

In accordance with EU
Fibre Composition MUST COMPLY
Regulation 1007/2011
Manual for Care Codes and Instruction of
woven linings: -3% / +2%
Performance Test

Dimensional Stability CA TM 01 ready-made-garments to be followed for


knitted linings: -6%/+2% length & width
(referencing
Washing

washing and drying temperature.


ISO 6330)
Appearance Satisfactory

Spirality ISO 16322-2 knits: max. 5%

woven lining: ±2% length & width for professional care items only;
Professional Dry/Wet
Dry Cleaning knitted lining: -6%/+2% length & width appearance to be assessed by use of CA TM
Cleaning
satisfactory appearance 01 appearance table
4 dry
3 dry for fade-out, prints, pile or pigment dyed fabrics
Colour Fastness to Rubbing ISO 105-X12
3-4 wet
2 wet for heavy shades, fade-out, prints, pile or pigment dyed fabrics
ISO 105-C06
Change 4
A2S for 40°C or
Colour Fastness to Washing Staining 3-4 (2-3 on PA for heavy shades, prints, pile or pigment dyed fabrics)
C2S for 60°C
Contrast Colours: Change 4 (white 4-5), Staining 4-5
ref. Care Instruction
Change 4
Colour Fastness to Perspiration ISO 105-E04 Staining 3-4 (2-3 on PA for heavy shades, prints, pile or pigment dyed fabrics)
Contrast Colours: Change 4 (white 4-5), Staining 4-5
Change 4
Colour Fastness to Dry Cleaning ISO 105-D01 Staining 3-4 (2-3 on PA for heavy shades, prints, pile or pigment dyed fabrics) dry cleanable items only
Contrast Colours: Change 4 (white 4-5), Staining 4-5
BVL B 82.92-3
Colour Fastness to Saliva and Sweat fast (grade 4-5) fabrics intended for baby items up to size 98
BVL B 82.02-13
Fabric Weight EN 12127 ±5% deviation to requested fabric weight

≤90 g/m² 91-160 g/m² 161-250 g/m² 251-340 g/m² >340 g/m²
wovens only
Tensile Force ISO 13934-2 100N 140N 200N N/A N/A

Tear Force (Elmendorf) ISO 13937-1 6N 10N 12N N/A N/A wovens only

wovens only
ISO 13936-1 (all except
6mm seam opening
stretch fabrics)
Seam Slippage 70N 100N 110N N/A N/A
ISO 139136-2 (stretch
garment seam construction to be adjusted
fabrics only)
based on development garment test results

EN 14704-1 elongation of <25%: minimum recovery of ≥95%


Elastic behaviour (wovens)
Method A (strip test) elongation of ≥25%: minimum recovery of ≥92%

ADDITIONAL TESTING upon C&A REQUEST

≤90 g/m² 91-160 g/m² 161-250 g/m² 251-340 g/m² >340 g/m²

Abrasion Resistance - Martindale ISO 12947-2 N/A 10,000 revs 16,000 revs N/A N/A

to be performed as part of
Spirality ISO 16322-2 wovens: max. 3%
CA TM 01 if requested

revs grade

125 3-4
Pilling Behaviour (wovens) - for synthetic intimate blended formal wear
ISO 12945-2 500 3-4
Martindale (blazer, shirts, trousers, skirts)
1,000 3-4

2,000 3-4

revs grade

125 3
for visible linings mandatory; synthetics,
Pilling Behaviour (knits) - Martindale ISO 12945-2 500 3
blends and viscose only
1,000 2-3

2,000 N/A

Bursting strength (knits) ISO 13938-2 200 kPa for knitted linings only

for all embellished and printed products /


Endurance Wash Test for Please refer to C&A
fabrics only;
attachments and prints (pigment, Product Safety Satisfactory
wash at care label temperature;
foil, foam, motif, flock,etc.) Requirements: C.3.3
number of washes agreed between parties

9
C&A PROPRIETARY AND CONFIDENTIAL INFORMATION
C&A Fabric Performance Standards QAD / V 1 June 2016

K01 - CIRCULAR knitted fabrics made of:


100% cotton and blends, including CVC
100% cellulosics (e.g. viscose, lyocell) and blends with primary composition of cellulosics
100% synthetics and blends with primary composition of synthetics

ALL FABRICS MUST COMPLY WITH THE C&A CHEMICAL POLICY (RSL & MRSL) + PRODUCT SAFETY POLICY
Any fabric for garments and accessories with a performance claim or marketing message should also comply with the appropriate test(s) in the C&A Performance Claim table: CLAIM Table

TEST METHOD REQUIREMENTS COMMENTS

In accordance with EU additional info for cashmere and other speciality


Fibre Composition MUST COMPLY
Regulation 1007/2011 fibres

Fabric Weight EN 12127 +/-5% deviation to requested fabric weight

Manual for Care Codes and Instruction of ready-


made-garments to be followed for washing
Washing Performance Test

temperature.
length: -5% / + 2%
Dimensional Stability CA TM 01 width: -7% / +2%
(referencing Dimensional stability to be carried out in tumble
ISO 6330) dry care by default unless requested by C&A
fabric technologist.
appearance to be assessed by use of CA TM 01
Appearance Satisfactory
appearance table

Spirality ISO 16322-2 max. 5%

for professional care items only;


Professional Dry/Wet -6%/+2% length & width
Dry Cleaning appearance to be assessed by use of CA TM 01
Cleaning satisfactory appearance
appearance table

revs grade

125 3-4

Pilling Behaviour - Martindale ISO 12945-2 500 3-4

1,000 3

2,000 N/A

EN 14704-1
Elastic Behaviour minimum recovery of ≥90% for fabrics containing ≤5% elastane only
Method A (strip test)
4 dry
3 dry for fade-out, prints or pigment dyed fabrics
Colour Fastness to Rubbing ISO 105-X12 required for all colour ways, except white
3-4 wet
2 wet for heavy shades, fade-out, prints or pigment dyed fabrics
ISO 105-C06
Change 4
A2S for 40°C or required for all colour ways, except white
Colour Fastness to Washing Staining 3-4 (2-3 on PA for heavy shades, prints, pile or pigment dyed fabrics)
C2S for 60°C
Contrast Colours: Change 4 (white 4-5), Staining 4-5
ref. Care Instruction
Change 4
Colour Fastness to Water ISO 105-E01 Staining 3-4 (2-3 on PA for heavy shades, prints, pile or pigment dyed fabrics) required for all colour ways, except white
Contrast Colours: Change 4 (white 4-5), Staining 4-5
Change 4
Colour Fastness to Perspiration ISO 105-E04 Staining 3-4 (2-3 on PA for heavy shades, prints, pile or pigment dyed fabrics) required for all colour ways, except white
Contrast Colours: Change 4 (white 4-5), Staining 4-5
Change 4
Colour Fastness to Dry Cleaning ISO 105-D01 Staining 3-4 (2-3 on PA for heavy shades, prints, pile or pigment dyed fabrics) dry cleanable items only
Contrast Colours: Change 4 (white 4-5), Staining 4-5
ISO 105-B02 4
Colour Fastness to Light Method 3, blue scale 3 for neons high risk products only (e.g. T-Shirts, tops)
grades 2-3 for pink neon shades
ISO 105-E03 only for swim- and non-swim beachwear / -items
Colour Fastness to Chlorinated 50mg/l for swimwear required, for all colour ways; some neon colours
change 4
Water 20mg/l for non-swim might not achieve grade 4 and need to be
beachwear /-items approved by QAD/QAS
Colour Fastness to Saliva and BVL B 82.92-3
fast (grade 4-5) fabrics intended for baby items up to size 98
Sweat BVL B 82.02-13

ADDITIONAL TESTING upon C&A REQUEST

ISO 13938-2 for brushed, burnout, enzyme/acid washed


Bursting strength 200 kPa
7.3cm² orifice fabrics and all <120 g/m² fabrics
Abrasion Resistance -
ISO 12947-2 8,000 revs
Martindale
Fabric Durability Wash minimum of 3 cycles
CA TM 02 (referencing ISO Satisfactory
(referencing Garment Durability if a project requires more than 3 cycles this
6330) (inclusive fuzziness grade 3 of fabric surface after 3 care cycles)
Wash) method needs to be followed
Endurance Wash Test for for all embellished and printed products / fabrics
Please refer to C&A
attachments and prints only;
Product Safety Satisfactory
(pigment, foil, foam, motif, wash at care label temperature;
Requirements: C.3.3
flock,etc.) number of washes agreed between parties

10
C&A PROPRIETARY AND CONFIDENTIAL INFORMATION
C&A Fabric Performance Standards QAD / V 1 June 2016

K02 - FLAT knitted fabrics made of:


100% cotton and blends
100% cellulosics (e.g. viscose, lyocell) and blends with primary composition of cellulosics
100% linen and linen blends, including ramie / hemp
100% synthetics and blends with primary composition of synthetics
100% wool and blends with primary composition of wool
100% silk and blends with primary composition of silk

ALL FABRICS MUST COMPLY WITH THE C&A CHEMICAL POLICY (RSL & MRSL) + PRODUCT SAFETY POLICY
Any fabric for garments and accessories with a performance claim or marketing message should also comply with the appropriate test(s) in the C&A Performance Claim table: CLAIM Table

TEST METHOD REQUIREMENTS COMMENTS

In accordance with EU additional info for cashmere and other


Fibre Composition MUST COMPLY
Regulation 1007/2011 speciality fibres

Fabric Weight EN 12127 +/-5% deviation to requested fabric weight

Manual for Care Codes and Instruction of


ready-made-garments to be followed for
Washing Performance Test

washing temperature.
Dimensional Stability CA TM 01 -6%/+2% length & width
(referencing Dimensional stability to be carried out in
ISO 6330) tumble dry care by default unless requested by
C&A fabric technologist.

appearance to be assessed by use of CA TM


Appearance Satisfactory
01 appearance table

Spirality ISO 16322-2 max. 5%

for professional care items only;


Professional Dry/Wet -6%/+2% length & width
Dry Cleaning appearance to be assessed by use of CA TM
Cleaning satisfactory appearance
01 appearance table

revs grade

125 3

Pilling Behaviour - Martindale ISO 12945-2 500 3

1,000 2-3

2,000 N/A

4 dry
3 dry for fade-out, prints or pigment dyed fabrics
Colour Fastness to Rubbing ISO 105-X12 required for all colour ways, except white
3-4 wet
2 wet for heavy shades, fade-out, prints or pigment dyed fabrics
ISO 105-C06
Change 4
A2S for 40°C or
Colour Fastness to Washing Staining 3-4 (2-3 on PA for heavy shades, prints, pile or pigment dyed fabrics) required for all colour ways, except white
C2S for 60°C
Contrast Colours: Change 4 (white 4-5), Staining 4-5
ref. Care Instruction
Change 4
Colour Fastness to Water ISO 105-E01 Staining 3-4 (2-3 on PA for heavy shades, prints, pile or pigment dyed fabrics) required for all colour ways, except white
Contrast Colours: Change 4 (white 4-5), Staining 4-5

Change 4
Colour Fastness to Perspiration ISO 105-E04 Staining 3-4 (2-3 on PA for heavy shades, prints, pile or pigment dyed fabrics) required for all colour ways, except white
Contrast Colours: Change 4 (white 4-5), Staining 4-5

Change 4
dry cleanable items only
Colour Fastness to Dry Cleaning ISO 105-D01 Staining 3-4 (2-3 on PA for heavy shades, prints, pile or pigment dyed fabrics)
Contrast Colours: Change 4 (white 4-5), Staining 4-5

ISO 105-B02
4
Colour Fastness to Light Method 3, blue scale high risk products only (e.g. T-Shirts, tops)
3 for neons (2-3 for pink neon shades)
grades
BVL B 82.92-3
Colour Fastness to Saliva and Sweat fast (grade 4-5) fabrics intended for baby items up to size 98
BVL B 82.02-13

ADDITIONAL TESTING upon C&A REQUEST

ISO 13938-2 for brushed, burnout, enzyme/acid washed


Bursting strength 200 kPa
7.3cm² orifice fabrics and all <120 g/m² fabrics
minimum of 3 cycles
Fabric Durability Wash (referencing CA TM 02 (referencing Satisfactory
if a project requires more than 3 cycles this
Garment Durability Wash) ISO 6330) (inclusive fuzziness grade 3 of fabric surface after 3 care cycles)
method needs to be followed
for all embellished and printed products /
Endurance Wash Test for Please refer to C&A
fabrics only;
attachments and prints (pigment, Product Safety Satisfactory
wash at care label temperature;
foil, foam, motif, flock,etc.) Requirements: C.3.3
number of washes agreed between parties
Elastic Behaviour EN 14704-1
minimum recovery of ≥90% for fabrics containing ≤5% elastane only
(flat knits) Method A (strip test)

11
C&A PROPRIETARY AND CONFIDENTIAL INFORMATION
C&A Fabric Performance Standards QAD / V 1 June 2016

FURTHER REQUIREMENT for CASHMERE


or SPECIALITY FIBRES CONTAINING FABRICS
ALL FABRICS MUST COMPLY WITH THE C&A CHEMICAL POLICY (RSL & MRSL) + PRODUCT SAFETY POLICY
TEST METHOD REQUIREMENTS COMMENTS
MANDATORY TESTING

In accordance with EU MUST COMPLY


Regulation 1007/2011 Provided the quantity of max. 2% extraneous fibres is
justified as being technically unavoidable in good
Fibre Composition The percentage share of cashmere fibres used in cashmere
AND manufacturing practice and is not added as a matter of
containing products may differ from the percentage labelled by a
routine.
ISO 17751 maximum of 2%.

12
C&A PROPRIETARY AND CONFIDENTIAL INFORMATION
C&A Fabric Performance Standards QAD / V 1 June 2016

C&A PERFORMANCE CLAIM TABLE


ALL FABRICS MUST COMPLY WITH THE C&A CHEMICAL POLICY (RSL & MRSL) + PRODUCT SAFETY POLICY

TEST METHOD REQUIREMENTS COMMENTS

Air Permeability ISO 9237 shell <5 l/m² * s where claimed

≥3,000 g/m²/24h
ASTM E96 (BW) where claimed for dry coated fabrics
(no requirements for seams)
Breathability
≥5,000 g/m²/24h
ASTM E96 (E) where claimed for wet coated fabrics
(no requirements for seams)
ISO 4920 (90) ISO 4 for new unwashed articles
Water repellent where claimed
Spray rating (80) ISO 3 after 1 care label washing

Water resistant ISO 811 shell ≥1,500 mm water column where claimed

shell ≥3,000 mm water column


Water proof ISO 811 where claimed
seams ≥1,500 mm water column

Quick Dry AATCC 201 1 ml/h where claimed

after 1 washing/drying/ironing cycle according to care label


fabric + seams: smoothness grade 4
Easy Care / Easy Iron ISO 15487 MIELE rotary iron to be used
(average of 3 specimens)
AATCC smoothness replicas (SA)

Non Iron ISO 15487 fabric + seams: smoothness grade 4 after 1 washing/drying cycle according to care label

Solar protection - Clothing EN 13758 Part 1/2 MUST COMPLY where claimed

Antimicrobial AATCC 147 No significant colony formation where claimed

Stain resistance (hydrocarbon) EN ISO 14419 Report grade achieved where claimed

Stain resistance (water & acohol) ISO 23232 Report grade achieved where claimed

Thermal resistance BS 4745 Single plate method MUST COMPLY WITH LABEL where claimed

Please note: If any claim and/or hangtag is to be used on a C&A product then the product must fulfill their claim requirements!

13
C&A PROPRIETARY AND CONFIDENTIAL INFORMATION
C&A Fabric Performance Standards QAD / V 1 June 2016

C&A INVESTIGATION TABLE

The test methods and requirements described in this table are highlighted as possible tests to perform during investigations into the route causes of
certain problems that may appear from time to time. It is not exhaustive but can be used as a guide as and when required.

TEST METHOD REQUIREMENTS COMMENTS


Benzoyl peroxide
SGS SL-TM-00038 Change 4 Not required on white and pale cream
(acne / spot treatment creams)
Bra wire punch through SGS SL-TM-00039 min 15 kg

change 4 nappa
Colour Fastness to water spotting ISO 15700 real leather items only
change 3 suede, split

Colour Fastness to sublimation DIN 54056 Staining 4-5

Fibre shedding SGS SL-TM-00033 grade 4

BS EN ISO 7854
Flexing No worse than slight cracking after 9,000 cycles Method C - coated fabrics
(BS 3424 part 9)

Leather type / species analysis Microscopic species analysis

Migration to white synthetic ISO 105-X10 Staining 4-5 Any white outerwear fabrics

Phenolic yellowing ISO 105-X18 Stain 4-5 white & off white only - agree with technologist

Visual assessement - 3 mins at 2,000rpm


Pile removal AATCC 93 Negligible appearance change and/or max 16% weight loss
Pile fabrics and chenille yarns

Static cling SGS SL - TM - 00031 Cling less than 10secs Filament fabrics & linings

Strength of strap / Handle attachment 90N for small bags small:


In-house TM
(for bags only) 150N for medium bags <30cm length & <25cm high
small:
<30cm length & <25cm high
90N for small bags
Strength of strap / Handle attachment medium:
In-house TM 150N for medium bags
(for bags only) 30-45cm length & 25-45cm high
250N for large bags
large:
>45cm length & >45cm high

Thread Count (Wales & Courses) BS 5441 ±3% length & width

Weight/Unit Area BS EN 12127 ±3% of specification

WIRA Steam Stability BS 4323 ±2% Woven formal dry clean items only

14
C&A PROPRIETARY AND CONFIDENTIAL INFORMATION
C&A Fabric Performance Standards QAD / V 1 June 2016

C&A PERFORMANCE STANDARDS - TEST METHODS


C&A TEST METHOD RESULT [UNIT]

LEGAL COMPLIANCE TESTS


Fibre Composition in accordance with EU Regulation 1007/2011 [%]
Quantitative analysis cashmere, wool, other speciality fibres and their
ISO 17751 [%]
blends

FABRIC TESTS
Fabric Weight per Unit Area EN 12127: 1997 [g/m2]
Yarn Count (for cones) ISO 2060: 1994 [tex]
Yarn Twist ISO 2061: 2015 [T/m in S or Z]
Number of Threads per Unit Length (warp & weft) EN 1049-2: 1993 [per cm]
Number of Stitches per Unit Length and Area (courses & wales) EN 14971: 2006 [per cm, per cm²]

COLOUR FASTNESS BACKGROUND INFORMATION


BS 1006: 1990, heavy shades: standard depth 2/1+1/1+1/3
Standard Depths of Colours BS 1006: 1990, standard shades: standard depth 1/6 + 1/12
BS 1006: 1990, light shades: standard depth 1/25
Colour Fastness: Grey Scale for assessing change in colour ISO 105-A02: 1993, assessment under artificial light D65
Colour Fastness: Grey Scale for assessing staining ISO 105-A03: 1993, assessment under artificial light D65

COLOUR FASTNESS TESTS for TEXTILES


ISO 105-B02: 2014;
Colour Fastness to Light Method 3, exposure up to contrast of grey scale grade 4; blue scale grade: 1 (worst) to 8 [grade] of blue scale
(best)
ISO 105-C06: 2010, ECE washing powder without optical brightner;
Colour Fastness to Washing [grade]
for 30°C and 40°C: A2S, for 60°C: C2S
Colour Fastness to Dry Cleaning ISO 105-D01: 2010 [grade]
Colour Fastness to Water ISO 105-E01: 2013 [grade]
Colour Fastness to Sea Water ISO 105-E02: 2013 [grade]
Colour Fastness to Chlorinated Water ISO 105-E03: 2010; 20 mg/l resp. 50mg/l active chlorine [grade]
Colour Fastness to Perspiration ISO 105-E04: 2013 [grade]
Colour Fastness to Rubbing ISO 105-X12: 2001, load: 9N [grade]
Colour Fastness to Saliva and Sweat BVL B 82.02-13: 2011 and BVL B 82.92-3: 2011 [grade]
Colour Fastness to Water Spotting ISO 15700: 1998 [grade]

WASHING PERFORMANCE TESTS


CA TM 01: 12.2015; Dimensional Stability, Appearance and Spirality after 1 household
Washing Performance Test (1 washing-drying-ironing cycle) [%] and [assessment]
washing
Durability Wash Test (minimum 3 care cycles) CA TM 02: 12.2015; Durability with household washing machine after min. 3 cycles [assessment]
Easy Care Performance (after domestic washing, drying and ironing) ISO 15487: 2009 [smoothness grade]
Easy Iron Performance (after domestic washing, drying and ironing) ISO 15487: 2009 [smoothness grade]
Non Iron Performance (after domestic washing and drying) ISO 15487: 2009 [smoothness grade]
Commercial Dry Cleaning ISO 3175-1/2: 2010 [assessment]

PHYSICAL TESTS for TEXTILES


Standard atmospheres for conditioning and testing ISO 139: 2011
Tensile Force (grab method) ISO 13934-2: 2014 [N]
Seam Force (grab method, seam rupture) ISO 13935-2: 2014 [N]
Seam Slippage (fixed seam opening method) ISO 13936-1: 2004 [N/6 mm]
Seam Slippage (fixed load method) ISO 13936-2: 2004 [mm/N]
Tear Force (Elmendorf pendulum) ISO 13937-1: 2000 [N]
Bursting Strength ISO 13938-2: 1999 (with 7,3 cm² orifice) [kPa]
ISO 12945-2: 2000, on unwashed sample; no use of photo standards
Pilling Behaviour (Martindale)
knitwear (load: 155g): assessment after 125, 500, 1.000 revs. [pilling grade]
(as received)
wovens (load: 415g): assessment after 125, 500, 1.000, 2.000 revs. [pilling grade]

ISO 12947-2: 1998 (with 9kPa); specimen breakdown: for wovens: 2 threads broken, for
Abrasion Resistance (Martindale) [revs.]
knitwear: 1 thread broken, for pile: loss of pile on 1mm², raised fabric: ground fabric visible)

EN 14704-1:2005; Method A (stripe test), for fabrics with elastane, Loading: 30N, Loading elongation [%]
Elastic Behaviour (wovens) Cycles: 5, Force Decay: at the end of 5th cycle loading of 30N for 1min, recovery time: recov. [mm,%] 1min
30min recov. [mm,%] 30min
EN 14704-1:2005; Method A (stripe test), for fabrics containing ≤5% elastane, Loading: elongation [%]
Elastic Behaviour (knits) 15N, Loading Cycles: 5, Force Decay: at the end of 5th cycle loading of 15N for 1min, recov. [mm,%] 1min
recovery time: 30min recov. [mm,%] 30min

15
C&A PROPRIETARY AND CONFIDENTIAL INFORMATION
C&A Fabric Performance Standards QAD / V 1 June 2016

C&A PERFORMANCE STANDARDS - TEST METHODS


C&A TEST METHOD RESULT [UNIT]

SPECIAL PERFORMANCE TESTS for Textiles


Air Permeability ISO 9237: 1995 [l/m2*sec.]
Antimicrobial AATCC 147: 2011 [colony formation]
Breathability (water vapor transmission) - dry coated ASTM E96 (BW): 2015 [g/m2/24h]
Breathability (water vapor transmission) - wet coated ASTM E96 (E): 2015 [g/m2/24h]
Fiber or Feather Migration EN 12132-1: 1998 [number of particles]
Quick Dry AATCC 201: 2015 [ml/h]
Snagging (ICI Mace Tester) ASTM D3939: 2013 [grade]
Solar UV protection properties (test method and classification) EN 13758: 2007 part 1 and 2
Water repellent ISO 4920: 2012 Spray rating [grade]
Stain resistance (hydrocarbon) EN ISO 14419: 2010
Stain resistance (water & alcohol) ISO 23232: 2009
Thermal resistance (single plate method) BS 4745: 2005
Water Resistant ISO 811: 1981 [mm water column]

LEATHER GARMENT PERFORMANCE TESTS


Tear Force EN ISO 3377-1: 2011 [N]
Leather - adhesion of finish EN ISO 11644: 2009 N/cm
Flexing Behaviour ISO 7854: 1995 [revs.]
Colour Fastness to rubbing ISO 11640: 2012 [grade]
Colour Fastness to water ISO 11642: 2012 [grade]
Colour Fastness to water spotting ISO 15700: 1998 [grade]

ABBREVIATIONS CALCULATIONS
AATCC American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
ASTM American Society for Testing and Materials
BS British Standard
Bundesamt fuer Verbraucherschutz und
BVL
Lebensmittelsicherheit
CA TM C&A In-House Test Method
EN European Normalization
ISO International Organization for Standardization
PS Product Safety
RSL Restricted Substances List
[mm] millimeter
[cm] centimeter
[m] meter
[T/m] turns per meter
[cm²] square centimeter
[m²] square meter
[g] gram
[h] hour
[kg] kilogram
[N] Newton 1N = 1 kg x 9.81 m/sec²
[mg/l] milligram per liter
[g/m²] grams per square meter
[kPa] kilo Pascal
[revs.] revolutions
[sec.] seconds
[min.] minutes
[grade] for grey scales, pilling, appearance, snagging and spray test assessment: best result: grade 5, worst result: grade 1

YARN COUNTS CALCULATIONS


tex mass of yarn in grams per 1,000 meters length 1 tex = 1g/1,000m
dtex mass of yarn in grams per 10,000 meters length 1 dtex = 1g/10,000m
den mass of yarn in grams per 9,000 meters length 1 den = 1g/9,000m
Nm length in meter per 1 gram 1 Nm = 1m/1g
Nm in tex 1 tex = 1,000 / Nm
tex in Nm 1 Nm = 1,000 / tex

16
C&A PROPRIETARY AND CONFIDENTIAL INFORMATION
C&A Fabric Performance Standards QAD / V 1 June 2016

C&A AUTHORIZED LABORATORIES


BV Group Worldwide http://www.bureauveritas.com

Intertek Group Worldwide http://www.intertek.com

SGS Group Worldwide http://www.sgs.com

Physical tests must be carried out by a C&A Authorized Laboratory.


Any other lab must be ISO/IEC 17025 accredited for the physical tests and can only be used after approval by C&A.

C&A CONTACTS for fabric related issues


FABRIC DEPT. EU David Millar (HEAD OF FABRIC, TRIMS & COMPONENTS) tel.: +49 211 9872 4182 david.millar@canda.com

FABRIC DEPT. EU Graham Hands (UNIT LEADER FABRIC, TRIMS & COMPONENTS) tel.: +32 2 257 6607 graham.hands@canda.com

QAS ASIA contact your local C&A QAS partner

C&A CONTACTS for test method related issues


QAD EUROPE Jonty Wilson (HEAD OF QUALITY ASSURANCE AND DEVELOPMENT) tel.: +49 32 22 57 63 32 jonty.wilson@canda.com

QAD EUROPE Peter Knaden (PRODUCT STANDARD ENGINEER) tel.: +49 211 9872 3592 peter.knaden@canda.com

QAD EUROPE Petra Fausten (LABORATORY MANAGER) tel.: +49 2166 530 455 petra.fausten@canda.com

QAS ASIA Andrew Turner (UNIT LEADER QUALITY ASSURANCE SOURCING) tel.: +852 2732 6568 andrew.turner@canda.com

17
C&A PROPRIETARY AND CONFIDENTIAL INFORMATION
C&A Fabric Performance Standards QAD / V 1 June 2016

C&A PERFORMANCE STANDARDS - TEST METHODS


Washing Performance Test for Assessment of Dimensional Stability,
Appearance and Spirality
CA TM 01
after household washing on ready-made garments + fabrics:
one washing-drying-ironing cycle
version 1; replacement of C&A SOP
Creation Date: 24/02/2016 Revision No.:
appearance after washing (11.2014)
Created by: QAD Revision Date: 24/02/2016

Purpose of Test

This test method defines the procedure of Washing Performance Testing for ready-made garments and reflects the washing behaviour and appearance after one household
washing-drying-ironing cycle.

Scope

This test method delivers clear indications about product quality and performance. The testing parameters are based on the quality requirements and test methods stated in the
Performance Standards Manual and are applicable for all washable products.This procedure ensures alignment in Washing Performance Testing of C&A authorized Laboratories.

Definitions

The procedure simulates the behaviour of garments after one household care cycle inclusive drying and ironing referring the Care Instruction on sew-in-label. It includes beside
the evaluation of dimensional stability and spirality the detailed assessment of appearance with information about colour change, cross staining, fabric surface, workmanship,
functionality etc. The performance of specimen before washing is also considered. Once dried and ironed with the indicated method the garment is examined visually. Ratings and
measurements are taken according to the table shown below.

Norms and Equipment


Household Washing Machine (European brand, front loader, such as Miele/Bosch/Siemens, a Wascator can be used optionally);
Household Tumble Drier; Iron with steam function
ISO norms and relevant equipment to be followed (ref. manual C&A Performance Standards)
ISO 3759 Preparation of garments in tests for determination of dimensional change
ISO 5077 Method for determination of dimensional change in washing and drying
ISO 6330 Domestic washing and drying procedures for textile testing (as reference)
ISO 16322-2 Determination of Spirality - Woven & knitted fabrics - Method A
ISO 16322-3 Determination of Spirality - Woven & knitted garments - Method B
ISO 105-A02 Grey scale for assessing change in color under artificial light D65
ISO 105-A03 Grey scale for assessing of staining under artificial light D65
ISO 12945-2 Pilling Behaviour (Martindale)
Conditioning & Testing Atmosphere
No special atmospheric conditions are required for the assessment.

Test Specimen
Two identical specimens are required, one to be cleansed and one as the reference sample for the assessment.
This reference sample remains in its original state.
Washing Performance Test Procedure
Washing Machine: household washing machine (European brand, front loader, such as Miele/Bosch/Siemens; Wascator optionally)
measurement marks to be added on shell material (ideal: 3 measures in length / 3 measures in width); for easy indication of colour
Sample Preparation:
staining a Multifibre (Type CLY with Lyocell) can be attached
Washing Program and Temperature: according to Care Instruction on sew-in-label; additional care information to be followed (e.g. “inside out”)
Loading: 2,0 kg (washing machine to be filled with 1 specimen plus 50g-pieces PES Makeweights ref. ISO 6330)

Washing Program, Spinning Cycles and Washing Detergent:

18
C&A PROPRIETARY AND CONFIDENTIAL INFORMATION
C&A Fabric Performance Standards QAD / V 1 June 2016

C&A PERFORMANCE STANDARDS - TEST METHODS


Washing Performance Test for Assessment of Dimensional Stability,
Appearance and Spirality
CA TM 01
after household washing on ready-made garments + fabrics:
one washing-drying-ironing cycle
version 1; replacement of C&A SOP
Creation Date: 24/02/2016 Revision No.:
appearance after washing (11.2014)
Created by: QAD Revision Date: 24/02/2016

Drying:

Ironing:

Results: Assessment of PASS / FAIL criteria


Satisfactory (PASS) Unsatisfactory (FAIL)
after washing-drying-ironing (where ironing is claimed, assessment only after ironing)

problems observed (washtest to be discussed


Control of specimen before washing nothing observed
with applicant)
Dimensional stability after 1 care cycle in % (separate averages in length and width) ref. C&A Performance Standards ref. C&A Performance Standards

Spirality of seams in % ref. C&A Performance Standards ref. C&A Performance Standards
Colour change, using grey scale ISO 105 A02 under artificial light D65 4 or better less than 4
Cross staining on components, using grey scale ISO 105 A03 under artificial light D65 4-5 or better less than 4-5
Pilling/fuzzing grade, using grades of ISO 12945-2 under artificial light D65 3-4 or better less than 3-4
Opening of seams in mm 4mm or less more than 4mm
Unravelling/breaks/holes in stitching no changes loose or damaged threads
Operation of zip fastener (easy opening / closures and ends properly fixed) function of zipper ok poor function, defect zipper
Print Stability no changes changes observed
Fraying of fabric and trims not frayed frayed
Detachment of fastenings & trims not detached detached
Corrosion/damage to trim including scratching of coatings no corrosion/damage corrosion/damage
Loss of pile in mm² less than 1 mm² more than 1 mm²
Delamination of fused components no delamination delamination
Wadding moved within casing or fibre migration no changes changes observed
Other observed changes (e.g handfeel) observed changes to be mentioned

Report

all product details (order, color, composition, lot/shipment, etc.)


Care Instruction on sew-in label
Washing, Drying, Ironing Procedure
Type of Washing Machine and Tumble Dryer
Test results of evaluation and assessment with PASS/FAIL details after 1 care cycle
other observed changes

19
C&A PROPRIETARY AND CONFIDENTIAL INFORMATION
C&A Fabric Performance Standards QAD / V 1 June 2016

C&A PERFORMANCE STANDARDS - TEST METHODS


Durability Wash Test
for Assessment of Dimensional Stability, Appearance and
CA TM 02
Spirality on ready-made garments + fabrics: after minimum 3 care
cycles in a household washing machine
version 1; replacement of C&A SOP durability
Creation Date: 24/02/2016 Revision No.:
(09.2014)
Created by: QAD Revision Date: 24/02/2016

Purpose of Test

This test method defines the Durability Washing procedure for ready-made garments and reflects the long-term appearance with focus on product life cycle and customer's
satisfaction. This method describes the procedure and assessment for minimum 3 care cycles in a household washing machine. Depending on applicant's request the procedure
can be extended up to 5, 10 or more care cycles.

Scope

This test method delivers clear indications about product quality and performance. The testing parameters are based on the quality requirements and test methods stated in the
Performance Standards Manual and are applicable for all washable products.This procedure ensures alignment in Washing Performance Testing of C&A authorized Laboratories.

Definitions

The procedure simulates the behaviour of garments after 1st, 2nd and 3rd household care cycle inclusive drying and ironing referring to the Care Instruction on sew-in-label. It
includes beside the evaluation of dimensional stability and spirality the detailed assessment of appearance with information about colour change, cross staining, fabric surface,
workmanship, functionality etc. The performance of specimen before washing is also considered. Once dried and ironed with the indicated method the garment is examined visually
after each care cycle. Ratings and measurements are taken according to the table shown below.

Norms and Equipment


Household Washing Machine (European brand, front loader, such as Miele/Bosch/Siemens, a Wascator can be used optionally);
Household Tumble Drier; Iron with steam function
ISO norms and relevant equipment to be followed (ref. manual C&A Performance Standards)
ISO 3759 Preparation of garments in tests for determination of dimensional change
ISO 5077 Method for determination of dimensional change in washing and drying
ISO 6330 Domestic washing and drying procedures for textile testing (as reference)
ISO 16322-2 Determination of Spirality - Woven & knitted fabrics - Method A
ISO 16322-3 Determination of Spirality - Woven & knitted garments - Method B
ISO 105-A02 Grey scale for assessing change in color under artificial light D65
ISO 105-A03 Grey scale for assessing of staining under artificial light D65
ISO 12945-2 Pilling Behaviour (Martindale)

Conditioning & Testing Atmosphere

No special atmospheric conditions are required for the assessment.

Test Specimen

For 3 care cycles 4 identical specimens are required; 3 samples for washing, one as the reference sample for the assessment. This reference sample remains in its original state. In
case applicant requires more than 3 wash cycles number of samples needs to be extended (for 5 cycles: 5 sample: for assessment after 1st, 2nd, 3rd, 5th care cycle + reference, for
10 washes: one additional for assessment after 10th care cycle).

Washing Performance Test Procedure

Washing Machine: household washing machine (European brand, front loader, such as Miele/Bosch/Siemens; Wascator optionally)

measurement marks to be added on shell material of all samples which are foreseen to be washed (ideally: 3 measures in length / 3
Sample Preparation:
measures in width)

Washing Program and Temperature: according to Care Instruction on sew-in-label; additional care information to be followed (e.g. “inside out”)

each sample to be washed separately with 2,0 kg loading


Loading:
(washing machine to be filled with 1 specimen plus 50g-pieces PES Makeweights ref. ISO 6330)

Durability Test Procedure: Following the indicated Care-Instruction all below defined procedures for washing, drying and ironing need to be carried out for 3
care cycles in the same way.

Sample 1 is evaluated and assessed after 1st care cycle, sample 2 after 1st + 2nd and sample 3 after all 3 care cycles. Deviations
between these 3 samples need to be mentioned in the test report.

When it comes to 5, 10 or more care cycles applicant needs to define if drying after each wash cycle is required or if the procedure (due
to long testing time) can be shortened.

20
C&A PROPRIETARY AND CONFIDENTIAL INFORMATION
C&A Fabric Performance Standards QAD / V 1 June 2016

C&A PERFORMANCE STANDARDS - TEST METHODS


Durability Wash Test
for Assessment of Dimensional Stability, Appearance and
CA TM 02
Spirality on ready-made garments + fabrics: after minimum 3 care
cycles in a household washing machine
version 1; replacement of C&A SOP durability
Creation Date: 24/02/2016 Revision No.:
(09.2014)
Created by: QAD Revision Date: 24/02/2016

Washing Program, Spinning Cycles and Washing Detergent:

Drying:

Ironing:

Results: Assessment of PASS / FAIL criteria Satisfactory Unsatisfactory


after washing-drying-ironing (where ironing is claimed, assessment only after ironing) after 1st, 2nd and 3rd care cycle after 1st / 2nd / 3rd care cycle (FAIL)
(PASS)

problems observed (washtest to be discussed with


Control of specimen before washing nothing observed
applicant)

Dimensional stability after 1 care cycle in % (separate averages in length and width,) ref. C&A Performance Standards ref. C&A Performance Standards
Spirality of seams in % ref. C&A Performance Standards ref. C&A Performance Standards
Colour change, using grey scale ISO 105 A02 under artificial light D65 4 or better less than 4

Cross staining on components, using grey scale ISO 105 A03 under artificial light D65 4-5 or better less than 4-5

Pilling/fuzzing grade, using grades of ISO 12945-2 under artificial light D65 3 or better worse than required
Opening of seams in mm 4mm or less more than 4mm
Unravelling/breaks/holes in stitching no changes loose or damaged threads
Operation of zip fastener (easy opening / closures and ends properly fixed) function of zipper ok poor function, defect zipper
Print Stability no changes changes observed
Fraying of fabric and trims not frayed frayed
Detachment of fastenings & trims not detached detached
Corrosion/damage to trim including scratching of coatings no corrosion/damage corrosion/damage
Loss of pile in mm² less than 1 mm² more than 1 mm²
Delamination of fused components no delamination delamination
Wadding moved within casing or fibre migration no changes changes observed

21
C&A PROPRIETARY AND CONFIDENTIAL INFORMATION
C&A Fabric Performance Standards QAD / V 1 June 2016

C&A PERFORMANCE STANDARDS - TEST METHODS


Durability Wash Test
for Assessment of Dimensional Stability, Appearance and
CA TM 02
Spirality on ready-made garments + fabrics: after minimum 3 care
cycles in a household washing machine
version 1; replacement of C&A SOP durability
Creation Date: 24/02/2016 Revision No.:
(09.2014)
Created by: QAD Revision Date: 24/02/2016

Other observed changes (e.g. handfeel) observed changes to be mentioned

Report

all product details (order, color, composition, lot/shipment, etc.)


Care Instruction on sew-in label
Type of Washing Machine and Tumble Dryer
Number of care cycles requested by applicant
Details about the Washing, Drying, Ironing Procedure for all cycles
Test results of evaluation and assessment with PASS/FAIL details for 1st, 2nd and 3rd care cycle
Deviations between washed samples
if requested: additional test results for 5 or more washes to be mentioned
other observed changes

22
C&A PROPRIETARY AND CONFIDENTIAL INFORMATION

You might also like