Tesco Textile Performance Standards Fabric Testing Requirements

TESCO TEXTILE PERFORMANCE STANDARDS
Fabric Testing Requirements
Tesco Textile Performance Standards

Part One
CONFIDENTIAL- Technical Information
Part 1 of 3
Jan 2010
Page 1 of 21
Contents
FABRIC TESTING & SUBMISSION
1. Statutory Obligations .......................................................................... 3

2. Tesco Codes of Practice .................................................................... 5
3. Performance Testing .......................................................................... 5
4. Flammability guidelines ...................................................................... 8
5. Burning Behavior of Children’s Nightwear ........................................ 10
6. Colour Fastness ............................................................................... 11
7. Dimensional Stability to Washing ..................................................... 11
8. Appearance After Washing............................................................... 12
9. Motif/Print Durability ......................................................................... 12
10. Pilling................................................................................................ 12
11. Seam Strength/Seam Slippage ........................................................ 13
12. Fibre Composition ............................................................................ 13
13. Bursting Strength.............................................................................. 16
14. Woolmark Registration ..................................................................... 16
15. Wadding ........................................................................................... 16
16. Fabric Weight ................................................................................... 17
17. Nickel ............................................................................................... 17
18. Claiming that a product is “Rich” ...................................................... 17
19. Brand Names ................................................................................... 17
20. Phenolic Yellowing ........................................................................... 17
21. Fluorescent Colours ......................................................................... 17
22. Restricted Dyes and Chemicals ....................................................... 18
23. Washed Down Garments ................................................................. 18
24. Zips .................................................................................................. 18
25. Statements / Claims ......................................................................... 18
26. Animal Skin / Fur .............................................................................. 19
27. Button pull test.................................................................................. 19
28. Batches ............................................................................................ 19
29. Colour Submission Procedures ........................................................ 19
30. Fabric Submission Procedures......................................................... 20
31. UVA and UVB Protection.................................................................. 20
32. pH value ........................................................................................... 20
33. Amendment History ……………………………………………………21
Jan 2010
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SCOPE
This manual includes testing guidance for textile and leather materials for
clothing and leather. For footwear and jewellery please refer to separate
manuals.
FABRIC TESTING
Every supplier must conduct tests to show that all fabrics used in Tesco
products are safe, and suitable for their intended end use. All testing must
be performed by a nominated Tesco laboratory 1 accredited by a recognised
National Accreditation Body. In the UK this is UKAS (United Kingdom
Accreditation Service) www.ukas.com Outside of the UK only laboratories
accredited by organisations that have multi-lateral agreements (MLA’s), or
International agreements (ILAC) with UKAS shall be permitted. (See
Appendix M)
Where supplier laboratories are used they should be accredited either by
UKAS (or recognised equivalent), or Tesco recognises the LACE
accreditation scheme for supplier laboratories/ dye houses; www.x-
reference.co.uk and the Lab Cert accreditation scheme (provided by MTS,
contact +44 (0)113 248 8830, info@hstts.co.uk ).
All accreditations must cover the scope of tests being conducted and
calibration must be carried out regularly.
1. Statutory Obligations & Standard Codes of

Practice
Tesco and their manufacturers have to fulfil certain statutory obligations
and must ensure that their products meet the following legal
requirements. Further guidance on these obligations is available in the
Clothing Technical manual and in Part 4 of this manual.
• Trade Descriptions Act 1968.

• Sale of Goods Act 1979 as amended by The Sale and Supply of Goods
Act 1994.
• The Rag, Flock and Other Filling Regulations 1981.
• The Nightwear (Safety) Regulations 1985, The Nightwear (Safety)
Regulations (Amendment) 1987. EN 14878: 2007 Textiles — Burning
behavior of children’s nightwear.
1
Tesco clothing testing must be carried out by Intertek or SGS. Certain supplier in house
labs and specialist 3rd party labs may be used with the special permission of Tesco UK
Fabric Technical Manager.
Jan 2010
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• The Textile Products (Indications of Fibre Content) Regulations 1986

including Amendments 1988, 1994, 1998, 2006.
• The Children’s Clothing (Hood Cords) Regulations 1976.
• The Consumer Protection Act 1987.
• The Food Imitations (Safety) Regulations 1989.
• Personal Protective Equipment (EC Directive) Regulations 1992.(1994)
• The Trade Marks Act 1994.
• General Product Safety Regulations 2005.
• Toy Safety Regulations 1995.
• The Footwear (Indication of Composition) Labelling Regulations 1995.
• The Dangerous Substances and Preparations (Nickel) (Safety)
Regulations 2000.
• EU General Product Safety Directive
2001/95/ECsctionssubstances and
• Safety of Toys BS EN 71 2005 – (Relevant parts depending on product)
• EN 1413 1998 / ISO 3071 – determination of pH
• Council Directive 76/769/EEC, 2003/21/EC Restrictions on the marketing
and use of certain dangerous substances and preparations (Azo
Colourants)
• Statutory Instrument 1993 No 1 and 2001 No 3141 (76/769EC,
91/173/EEC) (Penta Chloro Phenol)
• Statutory Instrument 1993 No. 1643 The Environmental Protection
(Controls on Injurious Substances) (No. 2) Regulations 1993 (Cadmium)
• EU Directive 199/815/EC and EU Directive 2005/84/EC ‘Restrictions on
the use of certain Phthalates in toys and Childcare articles’
• EU Council Directive 83/264/EC & 2003/11/EC being amendments to EU
Council Directive 76/769/EEC – Use of Flame Retardants
• Regulation (EC) No 1523/2007 EU Banning of Import & Sale of Cat &
Dog Fur & any product containing such fur
• Statutory Instrument 2001 No 880 and amendments (98/8/EC) (Biocides)
• Statutory Instrument 2007 No 3106 amending 2006 No 608 (Persistent
Organic Pollutants)
• Statutory Instrument No 3438 of 2007 The Controls on Dangerous
Substances and Preparations (2006/122/EC)
Standard codes of practice required by Tesco:
• BS 7907: 2007 Code of Practice for the design and manufacture of

children’s clothing to promote mechanical safety.
• BS EN 14682: 2007 Safety of Children’s Clothing – Cords and
Drawstrings on Children’s clothing specifications.
• BS 3084:2006 Specification for slide fasteners.
• EN ISO 3758:2005 Textile – Care code using symbols.
Jan 2010
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2. Tesco Codes of Practice

2.1. Flammability policy (see Appendix L)
3. Performance Testing
3.1. All components and fabrics must be tested and approved prior to
cutting. Any bulk fabric cutting carried out before receipt of test
reports is at the risk of the supplier.
3.2. All laboratories used for testing must be ISO 17025 approved, for
the tests performed, by UKAS or an internationally mutually
recognised equivalent (See Appendix M).
3.3. It is the responsibility of the supplier to ensure that all fabrics,

components and trims are tested to, and meet the requirements
of the Tesco Performance Standards. This should be discussed
with the relevant Tesco Technical Manager at pre production
stage.
3.4. Tests required are listed under Tesco Textile Performance

Standards.
3.5. Tests must be relevant to care code proposed for garment. (See
Tesco Textile Testing Manual Part Two – Care Codes.)
3.6. The Tesco Technical Manager may request additional testing at

any time.
3.7. Testing must be performed using the test methods described in

the relevant testing performance standard.
3.8. Suppliers pay for all testing.
3.9. New fabrics will not be considered for use unless a base test
report confirming compliance with the relevant Tesco
Performance Standard has been submitted prior to the order
being placed.
3.10. The fabric sent for testing must be dyed and finished as agreed
with the Tesco Technical Manager (to be from bulk production).
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3.11. The responsibility for ensuring that laboratories have sufficient

samples for all tests to be performed lies solely with the
supplier. As a guide the minimum amount required for testing is
as follows:
3.11.1. Fabric for physical tests: 2m full width, not cut from piece
ends
3.11.2. Fabric for stability and colourfastness: 1m of full width of

each colour way or design.
3.11.3. If ‘Appearance after wash’ and ‘Durability’ tests are

requested, a minimum of two samples of each colour way,
taken from bulk production, must be submitted.
3.12. The following information must be sent to the laboratory with

fabric / garments for testing:
3.12.1. The Tesco reference number / style number.
3.12.2. Batch code to be used on ALL styles that are produced

from more than one batch of fabric.
3.12.3. The name of the retail customer i.e. ‘Tesco CE’ or

‘Tesco UK’.
3.12.4. The 5 wash care symbols on the label plus any

additional care instructions. (See Tesco Textile Testing
manual Part Two- Care Codes.)
3.12.5. The test must be clearly identified that it is for Tesco.
3.12.6. Claimed fibre composition
3.12.7. The name of the fabric colour way (as used on the
Tesco contract)
3.12.8. The type of garment to be made from the fabric.
3.12.9. The Tesco performance standard to be tested against

(with notification if the garment being tested has contrast
fabric/ trims)
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3.13. The test reports from the test house must include a front sheet with
summary of test results indicating what was tested and the pass
/fail result.
3.14. Test results must show the relevant Tesco standards alongside
results i.e. contrast colour standards where applicable.
3.15. Test report results should be factual and objective against

standard.
3.16. The supplier must send an original Test Report (photocopies,

electronic copies and faxed copies are not acceptable) to the
Tesco Technical Manager with the green seal samples for
approval. If it is a Self Green Approved Supplier, then the test
reports do not need to be submitted but must be available on
request and any failures must be reported to the Technical
Manager immediately.
3.17. Copies and original test reports should be held by the supplier for a
minimum of 6 years. Tesco reserve the right to audit test reports
held by suppliers at any time.
3.18. Repeat Orders: In order to comply with Tesco minimum legal

requirements a satisfactory test report must be submitted to the
Technical Manager every 6 months. It is the suppliers
responsibility to ensure that each new batch of bulk fabric is tested,
and kept on file, we only require to see tests every 6 months.
3.19. No test report submitted should be over 6 months old (confirmed

by date on report).
3.20. Test Failures- suppliers should work with the fabric supplier and
improve the fabric before re-testing. At this stage the Tesco
Technical Manager only needs to be informed if this action will
impact on the delivery date.
3.21. When the fabric cannot be improved and the decision to accept or
reject must be made, the test report with the laboratory-tested
specimens must be sent to the Tesco Technical Manager for the
decision.
3.22. Refinished fabrics: If a fabric is refinished to improve a test result,

the refinished fabric must be completely re-tested to ensure that no
other properties have been affected by the remedial work.
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3.23. Base test reports: these MUST be provided if the fabric being
proposed is a new fabric that we do not have history on, it is to
ensure any potential problems are highlighted early in the
development process so they can be resolved without impact on
delivery. Base testing must be carried out prior to placing of
contracts.
A wearer trial may also be requested at this stage. If a base test

report is requested Tesco expect the following:
Test report no older than 6mths
Test report to be tested on same quality, not correct colour way.
Test report should include all physical tests and dimensional
stability.
Test report must be from an accredited lab, but can be an existing
report used for another retailer.
General Specifications
4. Flammability guidelines
4.1. The regulations: The Nightwear (Safety) Regulations 1985 makes
it an offence to sell children's nightwear unless it complies or has
been treated so it can achieve the flammability performance
requirements of British Standard (BS) 5722. It also lays down
labelling requirements so that purchasers can tell if other
nightwear, including adults, meet the flammability requirements or
not.
4.2. Children’s nightwear: All children's nightwear must comply with the
flammability performance requirements of BS 5722. Children's
nightwear means:
Jan 2010
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4.2.1. Anything designed for wear by, and that would normally be
worn by, a person under the age of 13 years or over 3 months
4.2.2. Night dresses with a chest measurement between 53cm and

91cm or length measurement not exceeding 122 cm
4.2.3. Dressing gowns where the chest measurement does not

exceed 97 cm or the sleeve measurement does not exceed 69
cm
4.3. The above items must comply with BS5722 and have a permanent
label stating ‘LOW FLAMMABILITY TO BS 5722’ (in black 10 point,
upper case letters)
4.4. The test method for Flammability requires a garment representative

of bulk including all correct trims to be submitted for testing.
4.5. The regulations do not include:
4.5.1. Babies' garments (under 3months)
4.5.2. Pyjamas
4.5.3. 100% cotton terry towelling bath robes
4.5.4. Adult nightwear.
4.6. These garments must have a permanent label attached stating if the
garment complies with BS 5722.
4.7. If any of the garments not included in the legislation do not meet the
requirements they must have a label printed in red, 10 point, upper
case letters ‘KEEP AWAY FROM FIRE’.
4.8. Any nightwear treated with flame-retardant chemicals must also have
a label that states "DO NOT WASH AT MORE THAN 50C. CHECK
SUITABILITY OF WASHING AGENT".
4.9. Position of labels: The labels described above must be permanent

and either be on the inside neck of the garment, or next to the label
giving the size of the garment or on the front of the size label itself.
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4.10. Please note the above guidance is intended for suppliers and offers
practical advice. It is not a definitive statement of the law. For further
guidelines for use of ‘Keep away from fire’ labelling see Appendix L.
5. Burning Behavior of Children’s Nightwear

Specification: EN 14878: 2007 Textiles
Type of nightwear Standard used Requirements

Babies’ nightwear for babies up to age 3 months - No requirement
Children’s (6 months up to 14 years) pyjamas EN 14878 520 mm trip thread not severed in less than 10 s
Pile and raised surface fabrics – No surface flash
+ design requirements of EN14878
Children’s (6 months up to 14 years) pyjamas EN 14878 520 mm trip thread not severed in less than 15 s
where pyjamas do not meet the design Pile and raised surface fabrics – No surface flash
requirements of EN14878
Children’s (3 months up to 13 years) nightdresses BS 5722:1984 300 mm trip thread not severed in less than 25 s
600 mm trip thread not severed in less than 50 s
EN 14878 Pile and raised surface fabrics – No surface flash
Children’s (13 years) nightdresses EN 14878 520 mm trip thread not severed in less than 15 s
Children’s (3 months up to 13 years) dressing BS 5722:1984 300 mm trip thread not severed in less than 25 s
gowns 600 mm trip thread not severed in less than 50 s
EN 14878 Pile and raised surface fabrics – No surface flash
Children’s (13 years) dressing gowns EN 14878 520 mm trip thread not severed in less than 15 s &
Pile and raised surface fabrics – No surface flash
Children’s (3 months up to 13 years) EN 14878 520 mm trip thread not severed in less than 15 s
100% Cotton Terry Towelling bathrobes Pile and raised surface fabrics – No surface flash
Babies and children’s nightwear not listed above EN 14878 / As applicable
BS 5722:1984
5.1. Specifies the flammability performance requirements for Children’s

nightwear throughout Europe, however in the UK the requirements
will only apply where the levels of flammability performance
specified are higher than those of the UK Nightwear
Safety Regulations
5.2. Requirements are divided in to 3 classes.

Class A Children’s Pyjamas that do not meet the design criteria
Class B Children’s Pyjamas meeting the specified design criteria
Class C Babies Nightwear
5.3. The test method for flammability requires base fabrics to be

tested.
Jan 2010
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5.4. A risk assessment should be undertaken as part of garment

design taking into account factors such as the following:
5.5. Trims, motifs and prints may change the burning characteristics
of a garment, potentially reducing the level of safety offered by the
basic fabric class.
5.6. Where an aspect of design is considered to have a potential

impact on the flammability of the garment and injury to the wearer,
action should be taken to modify the design.
5.7. Garments must have a label printed in red, 10 point, upper case
letters ‘KEEP AWAY FROM FIRE’.
5.8. Position of labels: The labels must be permanent and either be on

the inside neck of the garment, or next to the label giving the size of
the garment or on the front of the size label itself.
6. Colour Fastness
6.1. All colourfastness to washing tests must be tested at the wash
temperature on the garment technical label with a minimum of 40°C.
Drying instructions as per care label.
6.2. Wet and dry rubbing to be tested both ways. Especially on:
• Pile fabrics: test face and back.

• Corduroy fabrics: test face and back.
• Pigment dyed fabrics: test face and back
6.3. Garments with contrast fabrics and trims must achieve the higher
staining result of 4-5, as highlighted in test standards.
7. Dimensional Stability to Washing

7.1. Test at the temperature stated on the garment technical label with a
minimum of 40°C. Drying instructions as per care label.
7.2. An iron can only be used where the inherent creasing of the sample
would cause inaccurate measurements. Some fabrics (particularly if
the care instructions on the technical label are ‘iron whilst damp’) will
recover a significant amount of their shrinkage after ironing.
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7.2.1. If a sample has been ironed, results must be reported

before ironing and after, and be stated clearly on the report.
8. Appearance After Washing

8.1. Test at wash care code on garment technical label.
8.2. Ensure all care instructions on technical label are adhered to.
8.3. Type A IEC detergent to be used.
8.4. Perform relevant washing tests using fully constructed garments

from bulk production.
8.5. Each colourway must be tested.
8.6. When the laboratory perceives a borderline result against the

standard, the sample must be returned to the client in order that it
can be forwarded to the Tesco Technical Manager for a decision
on its suitability for use for Tesco (See Appendix B). The decision
to approve a borderline case is the sole responsibility of Tesco
Technical Manager, not the testing laboratory or supplier.
8.7. See Appendix B for test method.
9. Motif/Print Durability
9.1. See Appendix C for test method.
9.2. When the laboratory perceives a borderline, or significant

change, the sample must be returned to their client in order that it
can be forwarded to the Tesco Technical Manager for a decision
on its suitability for use (See Appendix C). The decision to
approve a borderline case is the sole responsibility of Tesco
Technical Manager, not the testing laboratory or supplier.
10. Pilling
10.1. Not applicable to 100% cotton, 100% wool, and fabrics
constructed completely from continuous filament yarns.
10.2. Tests specimens to be washed by laboratory before testing.
Jan 2010
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10.3. For polar fleece and fleece face fabrics, see Appendix G for test
method.
11. Seam Strength/Seam Slippage

11.1. Laboratory seams are used for testing. Supplier must ensure
that production seams are at least as strong as a standard
laboratory seam.
12. Fibre Composition

12.1. Textile products/garments with trims must be labelled in
accordance with the requirements of The Textile Products
(Indications of Fibre Content) Regulations 1986 and
subsequent amendments. Collars, cuffs etc. that are an
integral and/or functional component and should be labelled in
accordance with these requirements.
12.2. Tesco classify that a trim is a functional/integral part of a

garment – without this component the garment would not be fit
for purpose.
12.2.1. Trims that need to be labelled:
• A collar that buttons.

• Neck rib attached by a seam.
• Lace that joins two parts of a garment without a backing
fabric.
12.3. Tesco classify that a trim is not any added component forming
an non-integral/non-functional part of the garment.
12.3.1. Trims that do not need to be labelled:
• Shirring elastic.
• Rib bindings at neck or cuff.
• Laid on tape.
• Collar - on a collar and reverse construction.
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12.3.2. ‘Exclusive of trims’ (Code 161) should be added to

the technical label where the fibre comp of a trim is not
used.
12.4. Any fibre composition named on the technical label or

packaging must be substantiated by an approved test report.
Printing of care labels without a test report is at the risk of the
supplier.
12.5. Bras: Fibre composition of wings and cups must be stated.

Wire casing, elastics and straps are not included
12.6. The fibre composition quoted on the label must be accurate to

± 3% against the test report result. (See ‘The Textile Products
(indications of fibre content) Regulations1986’)
Tesco regulates there’s no minus tolerance for elastic fiber for
whole clothing product, with exception of Socks & Hosiery
category.
12.7. Socks – apart from the elastication in the welt, all fibres must
be quoted. This includes the reinforcement yarn and all the
yarns in the design. Size tested to be stated on the report, the
following sizes should be selected for testing;
• Mens – size 9-11
• Ladies – one size
• Childrens – size 9-12
12.8. Marls - Each marl colour must be analysed for fibre

composition. All fibres found must be stated. Where marls and
solid colours are ordered, one solid colour must be tested in
addition to each colour of marl.
12.9. Pile Fabrics – velour, velvet, fake fur etc. – where the fibre
composition is different, the face must be quoted separately
from the back e.g. ‘face 100% cotton, back 100% nylon’.
12.10. Non-textile coating on fabrics e.g. PVC/PU – Face and back

to be stated separately i.e. Outer: PVC, Back: nylon.
12.11. See Appendix K for list of permissible fibre names.
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12.13 The table below illustrates the criteria for supporting claims
relating to fibre composition:
Claim Regulation
PURE
May only be used if the product is entirely made from that fibre type
ALL
(except for fibres listed in 'Table 1' below)
100%
It is required that the named fibre is 55% or over by weight of the total
content OR
BLEND
The named fibre is the predominant fibre and 25% or over of the total
content. The full fibre content indication must be given in close proximity
RICH
content
CONTAINS
WITH
content. The full fibre content indication must be given in close proximity
A TOUCH OF
Fibres that can be disregarded when determining the fibre content

Table 1
of a fabric
Inadvertent impurities arising during manufacture provided they do not exceed 2% by weight
of the fabric (or 5% by weight of impurities if the yarn used to make the fabric was produced
by carding the fibres before spinning)
This allowance may be added to the 3% manufacturing tolerance between declared & actual
content if the impurities are of the same chemical group as any of the fibres named on the
fibre content label.
Fibres which are intended purely to produce a decorative effect, and which are visible and
distinct, provided they do not exceed 7% by weight of the product
Up to 0.3% of fibrous impurities in a fibre described as 'fleece wool' or 'virgin wool'
Jan 2010
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13. Bursting Strength

13.1. Applicable to knitted fabrics only.
13.2. Not applicable to filament yarns.
13.3. 30mm diaphragm to be used
14. Woolmark Registration

14.1. AII 100% Pure New Wool, and wool-blended garments must
meet the IWS Test Method Number 31. Only Licensed
Registered Test Houses are qualified to perform these tests –
a list is available from the IWS (International Wool
Secretariat).
14.2. All manufacturers must state their woolmark registration

number on garment labels and packaging.
14.3. Cashmere labelling-Fibre composition testing of cashmere is

to be conducted by a laboratory approved by the CCMI
(Cashmere and camel manufacturers institute).
14.4. In order to show compliance with The Textile products

(Indication of fibre) Content Regulations 1986 the supplier
must substantiate any specific wool type claim with a fibre
comp test conducted at a licensed laboratory. Consult Tesco
Technical manager for an up to date list of licensed animal
fibre analysts.
15. Wadding
15.1. Wadding fibres must not percolate through either the lining or
outer fabrics after the garment has undergone washing and
‘Appearance after washing tests’. A suitable scrim/ fabric
coating/ heat seal must be agreed in advance with the Tesco
Technical Manager.
15.2. The weight of the wadding must be agreed in advance with the
Tesco Technical Manager.
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16. Fabric Weight

16.1. All fabrics must weigh within +/-3% conditioned, +/-5%
unconditioned of the specified weight in g/m2.
17. Nickel
17.1. Any metallic item (eg. Rivet, buckle etc), that comes in to direct
contact with the skin, must comply with the EU Nickel Directive.
Refer to the Clothing Technical Manual.
18. Claiming that a product is “Rich”

18.1. Garments for sale in the UK making a claim must have a
minimum of 55% of the fibre e.g. 55% cotton can be labelled as
cotton rich.
19. Brand Names

E.g. Dupont Lycra Elastane, Tencel, Teflon, Scotchguard
19.1. For any product intended to carry a registered trade mark

supporting documentation confirming it’s authenticity must be
submitted to the Tesco Technical Manager.
19.2. Fibre composition MUST be tested prior to application of finish.
19.3. All bulk fabrics with a performance finish must be tested to

substantiate the claimed properties.
20. Phenolic Yellowing

20.1. This test is applicable for all white garments and trims. Tesco
Technical Manager may ask for the test on other items if
necessary.
21. Fluorescent Colours

21.1. Garments in fluorescent colours may not meet Tesco
colourfastness requirements. The supplier must make Tesco
aware of this prior to the order being confirmed. The buyer
and TM will agree the standard acceptable prior to the order
Jan 2010
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being placed using the end use of the product and industry
colour standards as a guide. Unless this procedure is
followed the published Tesco Performance Standards will
apply.
22. Restricted Dyes and Chemicals

22.1. Suppliers are responsible for obtaining a declaration of
conformity (as per Tesco Restricted Substances Code of
Practice for Textiles, document 391) from fabric
manufacturers/dyers. These must be available for inspection
by the Technical Managers at audit, or at any other time
requested and must be within a 6 month time period.
23. Washed Down Garments

23.1. Representative washed and processed garments must be
submitted for testing.
23.2. Stone washing is not acceptable for children’s garments (up

to 14yrs). This is because there is a risk of small stones
being caught in the garment, becoming a choking hazard.
23.3. The pH of the fabric must be balanced or neutral so that the

fabric performance is not effected and so that there are no
chemicals left in the fabric that could cause an irritation.
24. Zips
24.1. All zips must conform to BS3084: 2006, table 1. The
performance code and test numbers required are dependent
on end use, therefore these are specified by the Technical
Manager.
25. Statements / Claims

25.1. Any statements / claims made on merchandise must be
substantiated independently by relevant tests. These will be
required at the discretion of the Tesco Technical Manager i.e.
Teflon coated, ‘down filled’, ‘non-iron’.
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26. Animal Skin / Fur

26.1. Leather and suede components/trims must only be made from
conventionally used species, including, but not exclusively
cow, sheep, pig, or goatskin. The use of any animal
designated as endangered by CITES (*) or domestic pets such
as cats and dogs is prohibited. Animal fur is not acceptable to
TESCO; synthetic alternatives must be used (i.e. polyester or
modacrylic for flame resistance). *CITES = Convention in
Trade of Endangered Species
26.2 For further detail refer to Tesco Code of Practise for Leather
Goods.
27. Button pull test

27.1. Test 10 of each type of button/ type of foundation and report if
any one of the 10 fail. Total spread of results for the 10 should
be no greater than 20N.
28. Batches
28.1. All batches are to be tested for Dimensional stability. All
Batches to have a test report confirming consistency across
the batches to the original standard, reports can be from
nominated test house or from in house laboratory.
29. Colour Submission Procedures

29.1. For Colour Submission Procedures please refer to the Tesco
Colour Manual.
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30. Fabric Submission Procedures

30.1. Checking fabric quality and consistency accurately before
production begins will save time, effort and money. All suppliers
must submit a Bulk fabric hanger and specification to the buyer
for approval before any fabric can be cut for production. Refer to
appendix A for the fabric specification document.
31. UVA and UVB Protection

31.1. Any fabrics/products claiming to have UV solar protective
properties must meet a UPF of 40+ and must be validated with a
test to BS EN 13758-1:2002 and labelled in accordance with BS
EN 13758-2:2003 and designed within accordance of part 2.
32. pH value
32.1. The pH value of finished goods must fall within the maximum
permitted range of 4.8 to 7.5 in accordance with BS EN 1413 :
1998 / ISO3071.
32.2. The pH value of leather goods must be a minimum of 3.2 and a

test report must be available to substantiate this. This is due to
the acidic nature of leather tanning.
Jan 2010
Page 20 of 21
33. Amendment History
This page is used to note minor amendments to part 1 of the manual

following launch.
Section Change Date

11 Laboratory seams to be used 02/09/09
Introduction Contact details of MTS UK added 11/11/09
12 Add Tesco requirement on elastic fiber tolerance 28/01/2010
Jan 2010
Page 21 of 21

Tesco Textile Performance Standards Fabric Testing Requirements

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Tesco Textile Performance Standards Fabric Testing Requirements

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TESCO TEXTILE PERFORMANCE STANDARDS

Fabric Testing Requirements

Tesco Textile Performance Standards

Fabric Testing Requirements

CONFIDENTIAL- Technical Information

FABRIC TESTING & SUBMISSION

1. Statutory Obligations .......................................................................... 3

1. Statutory Obligations & Standard Codes of

• Trade Descriptions Act 1968.

• The Textile Products (Indications of Fibre Content) Regulations 1986

Standard codes of practice required by Tesco:

• BS 7907: 2007 Code of Practice for the design and manufacture of

2. Tesco Codes of Practice

3.3. It is the responsibility of the supplier to ensure that all fabrics,

3.4. Tests required are listed under Tesco Textile Performance

3.6. The Tesco Technical Manager may request additional testing at

3.7. Testing must be performed using the test methods described in

3.8. Suppliers pay for all testing.

3.11. The responsibility for ensuring that laboratories have sufficient

3.11.2. Fabric for stability and colourfastness: 1m of full width of

3.11.3. If ‘Appearance after wash’ and ‘Durability’ tests are

3.12. The following information must be sent to the laboratory with

3.12.1. The Tesco reference number / style number.

3.12.2. Batch code to be used on ALL styles that are produced

3.12.3. The name of the retail customer i.e. ‘Tesco CE’ or

3.12.4. The 5 wash care symbols on the label plus any

3.12.5. The test must be clearly identified that it is for Tesco.

3.12.6. Claimed fibre composition

3.12.8. The type of garment to be made from the fabric.

3.12.9. The Tesco performance standard to be tested against

3.15. Test report results should be factual and objective against

3.16. The supplier must send an original Test Report (photocopies,

3.18. Repeat Orders: In order to comply with Tesco minimum legal

3.19. No test report submitted should be over 6 months old (confirmed

3.22. Refinished fabrics: If a fabric is refinished to improve a test result,

A wearer trial may also be requested at this stage. If a base test

4.2.2. Night dresses with a chest measurement between 53cm and

4.2.3. Dressing gowns where the chest measurement does not

4.4. The test method for Flammability requires a garment representative

4.5. The regulations do not include:

4.5.1. Babies' garments (under 3months)

4.5.3. 100% cotton terry towelling bath robes

4.5.4. Adult nightwear.

4.9. Position of labels: The labels described above must be permanent

5. Burning Behavior of Children’s Nightwear

Type of nightwear Standard used Requirements

5.1. Specifies the flammability performance requirements for Children’s

5.2. Requirements are divided in to 3 classes.

5.3. The test method for flammability requires base fabrics to be

5.4. A risk assessment should be undertaken as part of garment

5.6. Where an aspect of design is considered to have a potential

5.8. Position of labels: The labels must be permanent and either be on

• Pile fabrics: test face and back.

7. Dimensional Stability to Washing

7.2.1. If a sample has been ironed, results must be reported

8. Appearance After Washing

8.3. Type A IEC detergent to be used.

8.4. Perform relevant washing tests using fully constructed garments

8.5. Each colourway must be tested.

8.6. When the laboratory perceives a borderline result against the

8.7. See Appendix B for test method.

9.2. When the laboratory perceives a borderline, or significant