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COLOURING A BLACK
AND WHITE IMAGE IN
PHOTOSHOP
SKILL LEVEL : BASIC
So friends, let’s begin the first lesson
of colouring a Black & White image
using Gradient Maps.
We will work on this image and try to
add colours. I will try my best to keep
this as basic and simple as possible
for beginners to understand and
enjoy working through it.
What is a Gradient Map?
The easiest way to understand
a Gradient Map is to look at the
meaning of both words.
Gradient: A gradient is a gradual
blend between two or more colours.
Map: A map tells Photoshop how to
assign or map colours based upon
Please Note: All the images are given in the order of sequence.
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On the bottom of the “Layers Box” as shown in the above, you will see a small
circle. When you hover your mouse over it, it should say : create new fill or
adjustment layer. Click on it.
A drop down box will appear and second, from the bottom, you will see a
Gradient Map. Click on it.
A Gradient Map box will now appear. The exact location may differ with
different versions but it works exactly same.
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Now we need to change the
Blend Mode to Colour. Look in
your layers box and up the top,
you will see a bar with Normal
written on it. Click on that so
a drop-down box appears, and
look down to the bottom and
select Colour.
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Select the blend mode to Color.
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Next, click on the tiny
downward arrow. Another box
filled with coloured gradient
map preset thumbnails will
appear. Again, don’t worry if
your box is filled with different
coloured thumbnails, I’m
going to get you on the same
page as me in the next step!
If your box is too small and
is hiding all the thumbnails,
simply drag the corner to
enlarge.
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Can you see the little cogwheel that I have circled
in red?
A box will pop up asking you: Replace current gradients with the gradients from
Simple? Click Okay.
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Gradient Maps replace the range of black, grey, and white tones with a gradient
of your choice, in effect colourizing your image.
Notice the word Reverse with a little box you can tick. This is what it looks like
if the Reverse box is ticked. You will notice it has now reversed the coloured bar
in your Gradient Map box from white-blue to blue-white.
It is a good idea to change the name of our Gradient Map 1 Layer. Let’s call it
blue. If we don’t give the layer its own name, as we add more layers, they will
all be called Gradient Map by default, and it will be very frustrating trying to
find a particular layer.
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Switch back to blue by clicking the colour bar in the Gradient Map
box and selecting the blue thumbnail as before.
Now we are going to learn how to selectively colour part of our toy.
Masking!
Look at your Layers Box in the picture shown above.
On the blue layer, see the little white box, this is a Layer Mask
Thumbnail.
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This time, select a smaller brush so you can manage to colour the toy comfortably.
Now simply start painting on the colour!
Notice the Mask thumbnail is now showing white to represent the colour you
have applied.
NOTE: Remember, when using the layer mask, to paint with a Black foreground
takes the colour away. Painting with a White foreground adds colour to an image.
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Before
After
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COLOURING A BLACK
AND WHITE IMAGE IN
PHOTOSHOP
SKILL LEVEL : INTERMEDIATE
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So, where the image is darker, pink is applied, and where it is lighter, blue is
applied. The mid-tones are coloured with a blend of pink and blue in the middle
of the gradient.
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effects! If you come across a particular Handy Hint: Sometimes when you are
colour palette you really like, sample colouring, it can be hard to see any parts
the colours and apply them to Colour you may have missed, especially if you
Stops, moving them around until you have been colouring for hours and your
get the desired effect. eyes are tired.
Try out different Blend Modes Change the Blend Mode in your layer box
and Opacity in your Layers box from Colour to Normal and you can see
too, you just might be surprised very easily any areas you have missed!
at some wonderful effects you can In fact, sometimes I find it easier to do
achieve. Duplicate a Gradient Map, the actual colouring in Normal Blend
change the Blend Mode to see what Mode, then when I’m done, change it
happens. Lower the Opacity and let back to Colour Blend Mode. As you can
the underneath Gradient Map show now see, it is very obvious the areas that
through! have been missed!
Another terrific thing you can do with your Gradient Maps is use them to create
a filter for your image by lowering the Opacity in your Layers box to get the
desired effect.
Original image of an elephant.
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With a Gradient Map of purple and orange, Blend Mode set to Colour and the
Opacity lowered to 40%.
Experiment using different Blend Modes. Here I have changed the Blend Mode
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to Overlay.
You can now make your own unique filters and have a lot of fun with them.
Once you are familiar with how to use Gradient Maps, I recommend you continuing
further with this brilliant tutorial Advanced Colourization Techniques.
Before After
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Note: I use Photoshop CS5e on a PC. These techniques work particularly well for
me, but by no means should they be considered the only or best way to do things.
As usual, you are encouraged to experiment to discover what works best for you.
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The first thing to do is prepare the source image for colouring. This includes
extracting as much detail as possible in both the highlights and shadows;
removing dust spots and/or scratches; repairing damage; taming unruly noise;
sharpening; correcting luminance values; etc. It’s much easier to attend to these
issues before any colour is applied!
Remember as a kid, you were given a colouring book and a nice new box of
crayons? You were taught to “stay in the lines”! Well, that is still the case with
digital colouring. Now, however, we can get some help by using masking. As
you might expect, the quality of your colouring effort will depend greatly on the
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1
Why select near to far? This
way you’ll never need to go over
the same line twice. E.g., first,
I selected the model (in front).
Next, I selected the tree (behind
her), but just drew roughly
through the model. To finish,
I just subtracted the model
selection from that of the tree! Similarly, you can add or intercept selections to get the
needed result.
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3. Make sub-selections within groups
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They are indeed similar, but look closely at the darkest and lightest values. The
pure blacks and whites in the top half remain black and white. This is because the
H/S method (or colour mode painting) affects these values less and less as they
become more pure. The gradient map example, however, produces a smoother
transition and those pure blacks and whites have now taken on a hint of colour.
When applied to an actual photo, the difference is even more apparent.
The H/S method restricts you to one and only one hue. Of course, you can paint
on a colour mode layer using several carefully selected colours, but in either
case, those pure blacks/whites will simply not accept any colour.
On the other hand, the gradient map starts with 5 colours. Each can be adjusted
for hue, saturation and lightness individually. You can remove colours or add as
many as you like. And you will have complete control over the colour of those
extremely dark or light values.
While great for skin, a Gradient Map can be used for any colouring task. For a
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simple single colour need, start with a black to white gradient and add a stop
of the desired colour somewhere in between. Adjust to suit. Try a gradient map
for duo tone tritone, quad tone. Of course you can also change a gradient map
adjustment layer to any blend mode that produces the desired result, or use
blend-if (see next).
I suggest that you give the Gradient Map method a try. If you want to play with
the same map I’ve used here, the formula follows:
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5. Using blend-if
Perhaps one of the most powerful and versatile tools you have at your disposal is
“Blend If”. You can find it at the bottom of Blending Options (in the Layer Style
dialog).
Note: It is absolutely okay if the image given above or any screen shot in this
tutorial is not exactly similar with yours. It depends on applied theme under
preference settings or the version of Photoshop we are using.
If you are not familiar with this tool, I highly recommend learning how to use it
and what it can do!
Let’s put it to good use in the sky group of our demo image:
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Select and expand the “sky” group. (I’ve blacked out the rest for emphasis.)
First, I want to add some colour to the sky:
1. Add a new normal mode layer and fill
it using the gradient tool (light yellow to
light blue). Since the group is masked, this
will only show in the sky.
2. Reduce the layer opacity to around
40%.
3. Since we don’t want the colour on
the trees, we’ll use Blend If to let the darks
pass through. With the gradient layer active,
open the Blending Options dialog. Alt-click
on the right half of the black arrow in the
underlying layer sliders and drag it all the
way to the right. Drag the left half to the
right until all the colour is gone from the
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6. Colourize
Finally, it’s almost time to start adding some colour! BUT WAIT! Before adding
colours, it’s a good idea to have a pretty good idea of what colours to add. This is
seldom an easy task. While much of the time it boils down to educated guessing,
I suggest doing some research. If your source includes people, you may wish
to search for and note similar period clothing/costuming. If a celebrity, you
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look all that good until everything is coloured. Also, a good rule of thumb is to
Colourize absolutely everything. Even greys and whites have a hint of colour
introduced from lighting or reflected off surroundings.
Once you have all your basic colouring applied, you can evaluate the overall
image. If any of the colours you chose do not seem quite right, return to that
group and adjust accordingly. You can add as many new layers to any group as
needed to get the desired result as you work.
7. Refining
The next step is to add all the tasty details and enhancements that will make
your image POP!
Do you want to slightly change the colouring of a particular part? Do you want
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to add some colour variation or accent colours? Do you want to make selective
contrast, brightness, sharpness adjustments? Since you have masks on hand for
virtually everything in the image, all of this and more can be done easily and
precisely.
I typically create a new merge of all layers (named Details) on top of my layer
stack, as if to start afresh. I’m now essentially retouching a new full colour image!
You can continue to edit non-destructively if you wish. I generally will just add
the layers I need for a particular refinement, and when satisfied, merge down to
the Details layer. This simply avoids the accumulation of too many additional
layers.
After doing some judicious painting, your layer might look something like this:
In context, here is the effect this effort will produce:
9. Finishing touches
Are we done yet? Good question, but not one easily answered. I often declare I’m
“done” a dozen times, but I seem to continue to find minute things that I just
have to refine.
Your best bet is to save a flattened copy of your image and perhaps make a print.
Shut down your editor and walk away. Give your eyes something else to look at
besides your computer screen for a while. Some time later, return and open your
image again. View it full-screen with no editor junk in the way. Step back and
simply ask yourself, “Does this look like a genuine colour photograph?” Look at
the print and ask the same question. Ask others as well. If you cannot honestly
answer in the affirmative, there’s a good chance you are not quite done yet!
I think mine is done! The end result is shown in the next page.
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Note: All the images from the beginning to the end are given in the order of sequence.
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It may happened that I have written something in page 5 and referred image is given
in page 6.
I hope you were able to reap some useful information from this tutorial.
Happy Colouring!
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