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Health, Sin and the Body "Behung with Beades"
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specific historical contexts. It provides theoretical latitude to describe the focus is on seventeenth-century glass, shell and copper beads and how
nuances of colonialism in space and time, moving past binary oppositions they were integrated into bodily experience in colonial New England. In
of colonized and colonizer towards more subtle understandings of the this paper I explore how native New Englanders incorporated European-
small differences of lived experiences of colonialism, changing social manufactured glass beads into their lives and material understandings
identities and material transformations and innovations. Here, I suggest of the colonial world and how the incorporation of beads, in sartorial
that when hybrid processes are viewed through the lens of mimicry and bodily practice, were viewed and understood by English
and mockery, archaeologists gain better insights into the complexity of Puritans who settled in New England. These material embodiments
colonial entanglements (see van Dommelen 2006; Fahlander 2007). resulted in a language of dress that was transformative, creative and
expressive of changing social identities as Puritan and Native American
My interest in hybridity and mimicry intersects with my interest in conceptualizations of a properly-dressed, healthy body intersected.
understanding changing understandings of bodily self and material
embodiments in New World colonial contexts (Loren 2001, 2007, 2009,
2010). The European colonization of the New World is known to have Hybridity and Mimicry in the New World and the Expectation of
brought a renewed sense of bodily awareness and, by extension, Dress
health and well-being to Europeans and Native Americans. For English For Puritans in seventeenth-century New England, the moral soul
Puritans in southern New England, dress and adornment materialized and physical body were inseparable (Godbeer 1992; St. George 1998).
one's relationship with God and bodily health and any deviation from Godliness, as manifested by the body, was the sign of election and the
sartorial expectations compromised the Puritan soul. For example, in the body, with its material demands and metaphorical significance, became
1622 Mourt's Relation, Edward Winslow described a missing Puritan boy the axis upon which all colonial activity and religious meaning turned
who was returned to them by the Wampanoag "behung with beades" (Finch 2010: 29). Divine grace entered a person's soul through the physical
(Bradford 1963 [1622]: 71). Winslow and other English Puritans viewed such senses and inner grace motivated one's actions in the world. The body
attire as threatening to soul and health because it simultaneously signified was the site of conflict between godliness and worldly desires. Outward
belonging and not belonging: being neither Puritan nor Native American, plainness indicated inward godliness. Sombre dress avoided the "wily
but ambiguous. Once colonized, Native Americans were to mimic beguiles" of high fashion, which bespoke of a proud heart (Finch 2001:
English in clothing, mannerisms and dress, but when misunderstood or 108). Moreover, the boundaries between body and soul were permeable
misinterpreted through material culture as a hybrid form, mimicry was and thus susceptible to the devil and temptation (Finch 2001, 2010).
potentially dangerous to colonial hierarchies. Native New Englanders— Physical illness was linked to a soul's corruptions (Godbeer 1992). When
both Christian and non-Christian—understood clothing and adornment exposed to sin, both body and soul would suffer ill health. Spiritual state
differently as honouring and healing both body and spirit. meant nothing unless it was visibly manifested in dress, speech, sexual
activities and comportment (Finch 2010: 1). These fundamental beliefs
To highlight these interstices of colonial understandings and generated expectations and anxieties of what it meant to act and dress
misunderstandings, I draw on Bhabha's (1994) conceptualizations of as a true Puritan.
hybridity and mimicry to interpret the material and textual record of
Puritanism and conversion in colonial New England (see also Crossland The goals of Puritan conversion in New England implied that Native
2010; Ingold 2007; Loren 2010; Stahl 2010; White and Beaudry 2009). My Americans and English alike associated the wearing of European clothes
Archaeological Review from Cambridge 28.1: 151–168 Archaeological Review from Cambridge 28.1: 151–168
154 Considering Mimicry and Hybridity in Early Colonial New England Diana D. Loren 155
with Christianity; one moved closer to being a Christian by dressing that are necessarily part of colonial discourses (van Dommelen 2006: 112;
as one (Calloway 1997: 74–77). Daniel Gookin, Superintendent of the Fahlander 2007). When hybridity is a general and amorphous concept,
Massachusetts Praying Towns (Puritan-established communities for rather than referring to specific objects and bodies in space, it lapses into
converted Native Americans) in the seventeenth century, articulated the the same essentialist framework it works to refute.
common view of Native American bodies as 'mirrors' reflecting colonists'
views of themselves if they abandoned 'civilized' and 'moral' practice However, Bhabha's discussion of mimicry and by extension mockery,
(Finch 2001, 2010). Puritan visions of a properly converted Native American may provide a more fruitful avenue for interpreting colonial materialities
included the adoption of English cultural, material and spiritual practices (Fahlander 2007). At its broadest definition, mimicry is the desire for the
and the abandonment of long-standing Native American practices, such colonized to adopt—either forcefully or intentionally—the colonizer's
as wearing beads on exposed skin. material and cultural habits and values. Bhabha (1994) describes mimicry
as discourse that (almost the same but not quite) is generated out of
But embodying Puritan identity through English dress was not to ambivalence but is potentially subversive. When colonial discourse
be a complete transformation; rather a Native American copy of Puritan encourages the colonial subject to 'mimic' the colonizer, the result
identity was always to be distinguished as different. As Bhabha (1994) is never a simple reproduction of those traits. Rather, the result is a
argues, there had to remain a difference between the colonizer and blurred and therefore threatening copy of the colonizer. Mimicry is at
the colonized's mimicked performance of him. The colonizer's desire, once resemblance and menace. The desire for the colonized to imitate
therefore, was "for a reformed, recognizable Other, as a subject of difference the colonizer also erodes and mocks colonial authority as it continually
that is almost the same, but not quite" (Bhabha 1994: 122, italics in original). suggests differences in social and material colonial identities (Bhabha
Perfect copies, even in Puritan-established Praying Towns, would simply 1994: 123). It amplifies the ruptures and limitations of colonial authority and
be too threatening to imperial hierarchy. oversight—what can and is manipulated—as well as colonial anxieties
regarding boundaries of inclusion and exclusion.
Bhabha's articulation of colonial mimicry and hybridity is relevant
to this discussion. Hybridity, as defined by Bhabha (1994), should not My discussion of mimicry here aims to better understand the
be misunderstood as a simple fusion of new and old elements into a materiality of colonial entanglements: how new goods were used and
crossbreed of ideology or practice, but rather as a continuous process embodied by colonial peoples and how social identities transformed
that acknowledges inequalities of power and subverts the narratives of through these embodiments and materialities (see Crossland 2010;
colonial power and dominant cultures (cf. Young 1995; Troncetti and van Crossley 2001; Gosden 2005; Ingold 2007; Thomas 1991). As noted by Stahl
Dommelen 2005: 193). Archaeologists have found theoretical grounding (2010: 157), it is not enough to say that colonial peoples merely assimilated
in Bhabha's conceptualization of hybridity, providing a way to think the unfamiliar to the familiar, but rather that new goods remake the
creatively about cultural interactions, counteract simplified views of contexts of human actors and impact lived experience. Lived experience
colonization and embrace material and social constructs that do not is constituted with and through material culture and the residues of
fit neatly into historical categories and archaeological typologies. Yet those embodiments and lived experiences are found in texts, objects and
Bhabha's conceptualization of hybridity and its application in archaeology space (Crossland 2010; Fisher and Loren 2003; Gosden and Knowles 2001;
are not without critique. Several authors have noted that Bhabha Joyce 2005; Miller 2005; Stahl 2010; White and Beaudry 2009). Material
overlooks physical space and the intersection of space, things and bodies engagements during periods of colonization carry the stamp of imperial
Archaeological Review from Cambridge 28.1: 151–168 Archaeological Review from Cambridge 28.1: 151–168
156 Considering Mimicry and Hybridity in Early Colonial New England Diana D. Loren 157
desires and imaginations of how colonized and colonizers were to live in interactions with Massasoit, a Pokanoket chief in the Wampanoag Nation
relation to the politics of inclusion and exclusion: sumptuary laws, imperial (Bradford 1963 [1622]). Published in London in 1622 as a promotional tract,
rules and expectations. The lived experiences of colonial subjects—how the goal of the account was to paint the new Puritan settlement in the
they lived or were forced to live in their material worlds and how material most favourable light. The account reads as an ethnographic document,
worlds shaped people—redrew the contours of colonialism (Gosden providing rich detail on Wampanoag life and material culture. Despite
2005). Thus, the difference lies in performance: the embodiment of its optimistic goals, the overall tone of Mourt's Relation is cautious about
identity through the small things that comprise the material culture of the physical and spiritual challenges of settling in New England. In
daily life. particular, the account reveals Puritan anxieties about interactions with
Wampanoag and other groups, the tenuous nature of amicable relations,
Following this logic, a simple item such as a colonial glass bead can the need for treaties to cement alliances and the sinful allure of exposed
be interpreted in a variety of ways. In the case of colonial New England, Native American bodies. One section of this short narrative recounts an
glass beads were not for trade with the converted, as new Christians had expedition seeking a lost boy—ten-year-old John Billington—who had
given up these fashions to conform to their faith by embracing sombre strayed from the settlement. The young boy was found among the Nauset,
dress. Nor were beads to be worn by the unconverted, against exposed a group neighbouring the Wampanoag, who although "ill disposed to the
flesh. Rather, glass beads were meant to facilitate social interactions English" returned John Billington to them. The account reads, "[t]here he
that would, as Puritans hoped, lead Native Americans to salvation. What delivered us the boy, behung with beads, and made peace with us, we
was unexpected in these interactions was that the trade of material bestowing a knife on him, and likewise on another that first entertained
goods would lead to a dangerous blurring of social distinctions where the boy and brought him thither" (Bradford 1963 [1622]: 71).
objects were not used as they were intended—as baubles to promote
conversion—but rather used by Native Americans to embody new Beads were part of the material language of Puritans in their
identities (Kupperman 1997; Loren 2010; Thomas 1991). In southern New interactions with Native Americans. In these communications, however,
England, the Wampanoag and other Native Americans wore glass beads beads were understood as an item of trade with and adornment for Native
with copper and shell beads, as well as wampum (purple and white shell American bodies, not the bodies of Puritans. Bradford (1963 [1622]: 29)
beads used for ceremonies, money and adornment), to embody allegiance, states as much in his discussion of an interaction with the Wampanoag:
wealth, gender and status: to honour the living and the dead (Karklins "[s]o it is growing towards night, and the tide almost spent, we hasted
1992; Turgeon 2001, 2004). Glass beads were also worn to promote health with our things down to the shallop, and got aboard that night, intending
and cure sicknesses, an aspect of beads that was particularly important to have brought some beads and other things to have left in the houses,
in the seventeenth century as diseases were decimating Native American in sign of peace and that we meant to truck with them". That is, beads are
communities (Turgeon 2004). for a Native American 'them', not the Puritan 'us'.
…[W]e came into the plain ground we found a place Beyond Trade: Beads in Life and Death
like a grave…The skull had fine yellow hair still on it…It The majority of archaeologically recovered colonial beads have been
was bound up in a sailor's canvas cassock, and a pair of excavated from burial contexts. In my use of burial data I seek to consider
cloth breeches…About the legs and other parts of it was object biographies and how they intersect with human lives, recognizing
bound strings and bracelets of fine white beads; there that the beads I discuss here were placed alongside loved ones by family
was also by it a little bow, about three quarters long, and and community members in death. Glass beads from archaeological
some other odd knacks (Bradford 1963 [1622]: 27–28). contexts have been examined, defined, categorized and interpreted as
indicators of status, ethnicity, age, gender, ideology and identity (Ceci 1989;
Bradford questioned the ethnicity of the individual, pondering Karklins 1992; Kidd and Kidd 1980; Malischke 2009; Nassaney 2008; Turgeon
the occurrence of an individual with blond hair being buried with cloth 2001, 2004). Despite decades of research, the definition of glass beads as
breeches as well as beads and other European-manufactured items. He a trade good—a material good that facilitated economic relationships—
then suggested that the interred individual was either Native American or is a colonial category constructed by the English that still persists today.
"a Christian of some special note, which had died among them, and thus Of course glass beads were traded, but it was their lives beyond that
they buried him to honor him" (Bradford 1963 [1622]: 28). Meaning, to be moment of exchange that provides deeper insights into lived experience,
dressed in this fashion, the individual was either Native American (possibly how they became part of the lives and dress of Native Americans and
a convert) or a European prepared for burial by a Native American. Native their meaning and resonance for Native Americans and the English. The
Americans could adopt English dress through conversion to Puritanism, embodiment of beads by colonial Native Americans represents an active
but not in the piecemeal fashion described in Mourt's Relation. relationship between body and object in performances of mimicry and
mockery.
The fear that this individual was a Puritan who chose to dress like
a Native American is not vocalized in this account. However, in other
accounts, Puritan leaders and missionaries fretted over the physical and The village of Sowams (Burr's Hill site)
spiritual state of the colony: souls that would be lost when colonists The Burr's Hill site, located in present-day Warren, Rhode Island, is believed
would 'turn native', as well as the interethnic relations that disrupted to be Sowams, a seventeenth century Wampanoag village under the rule of
ordered colonial hierarchies and threatened imperial loyalties (Lindman Massasoit (fig. 1; Gibson 1980). Excavated in the early twentieth century, the
and Tartar 2001; Loren 2007; Stoler 2009). In fact, some were horrified to only comprehensive publication of the excavation was published several
realize that fashionable men and women from the Old World were, in the decades later by the Haffereffer Museum at Brown University (Gibson
New World, actually consuming indigenous cultures in their search for 1980). Forty-two Wampanoag individuals and numerous funerary objects
the new and the exotic (see examples in Wood 1634; see also Kupperman of Native American and European manufacture were excavated from the
1997: 197). Bodily presentation indicated one's relationship with God and site, including artefacts such as wool textile fragments, glass wine bottles,
by extension a healthy and devout body. Anything else would simply be European ceramics such as tin-glazed earthenware, bone combs and, of
a mockery of Puritanism and its God. course, beads. Most of the individuals were buried in flexed positions
covered by textiles or wood and recovered from multiple interments,
suggesting non-Christian burial practices were followed at the village
(Gibson 1980: 13–15). The diversity of Native- and European-manufactured
Archaeological Review from Cambridge 28.1: 151–168 Archaeological Review from Cambridge 28.1: 151–168
160 Considering Mimicry and Hybridity in Early Colonial New England Diana D. Loren 161
hybridity and mimicry. Numerous beads were recovered from Burr's Hill: 25 blue and blue/white beads
spherical beads
Native American-manufactured shell and copper beads and wampum
(distinguished from shell beads in shape and colour), as well as numerous 30 white beads wampum
colours and sizes of European-manufactured glass beads. At Burr's Hill, 16
burials (less than 50 per cent) contained beads (table 1). In nine of those 32 beads
glass beads contained a greater variety of Native-manufactured and 39 beads, beads in beads matchlock gun
pattern of belt,
European-manufactured artefacts of clothing and adornment including
brass rings, wool cloth fragments (either from blankets or clothing) and 1870 shell finger rings, cloth
excavation fragments
glass buttons.
1913
excavation beads black and white beads blanket fragments
Glass beads were intended by the Europeans to initiate an interaction
that would lead to conversion. Yet Native Americans embodied these Table 1. Beads from Burr's Hill, compiled from Gibson (1980).
Archaeological Review from Cambridge 28.1: 151–168 Archaeological Review from Cambridge 28.1: 151–168
162 Considering Mimicry and Hybridity in Early Colonial New England Diana D. Loren 163
same objects in ways not imagined by Puritans. When combined with and power. Weetamoo, as a Wampanoag leader, and Quanopen, as a
articles of European- and Native-manufactured clothing, glass beads warrior, were fighting to maintain and protect their communities and
joined shell, copper and wampum as part of the Wampanoag colonial traditions (Arnold 1997).
wardrobe, rich with meaning rather than a haphazard collection of 'trade
goods'. Although poorly detailed in seventeenth-century historical and
pictorial sources, archaeological evidence suggests that Wampanoag Conclusions
people living at Sowams under the guidance of Massasoit dressed and Manipulating dress not only confused Puritans whose idea of proper
cared for their community in specific, meaningful ways indicative of clothing was influenced by sumptuary laws and social protocol,
their lived experiences, in distinction to and perhaps in mockery of but brought about fear as the distinction between converted and
expectations of English Puritans. Some wore only shell beads, embodying unconverted, ally or not, was more malleable than initially imagined.
their Wampanoag identity in the face of conversion efforts. Others wore a It also brought about the anxiety that some English settlers might 'go
more varied wardrobe that included glass, shell and copper beads along native', thus placing their body and soul in peril. To dress in such a way
with European clothing to embody community status and allegiance. was to mock and malign Puritan ideologies. Native uses of glass beads
Beads placed with an individual in death honoured their lives and when were far from Puritan expectations, jeopardizing the wearer's health and
worn in life beads promoted health. Similar patterns of the incorporation corrupting their soul, which is how young John Billington was viewed
of glass beads with other articles of European- and Native American- when he was returned to the Plymouth colonists "behung with beades".
manufactured clothing and adornment have been recovered elsewhere
in New England. Even at Praying Towns where some individuals received The knowledge that donning a certain kind of dress could affect
a Christian burial, others were interred as non-Christianized Native status and stance in distinct communities translated into a strategy of
American burials with wampum, beads and other material objects social performance for many Native New Englanders. Wampanoag leader
(Calloway 1998: 76). Massasoit, well-versed in the language of English clothing, was aware of
how this dress was viewed and feared by English Puritans. The trade of
These practices of dress were confusing and threatening to Puritans. glass beads signalled alliance, the beginning of a relationship that, in the
For example, in Mary Rowlandson's 1682 autobiographical account of minds of Puritans, would lead to Wampanoag conversion and Puritan
her captivity during Metacom's Rebellion, she describes the dress of rule in southern New England. Yet, wearing glass beads on exposed skin
Weetamoo, a female Wampanoag sachem, and Weetamoo's husband and in combination with other items of clothing and adornment in a
Quanopen. As leaders within Wampanoag communities, both wore distinctively non-English fashion indicated a rejection and a mockery of
English-style coats, linen shirts, white stockings and powdered wigs Puritan ideologies.
along with numerous strands of wampum and body paint (Rowlandson
1828: 63–64). For Rowlandson, Weetamoo's dress signified sinful pride, a Massasoit never permitted the Pokanoket to convert or Sowams to
trait that was intolerable to Puritan ideologies. Rowlandson's perspective become a Praying Town (Kupperman 1997). This rejection followed an
as the wife of a Puritan minister did not allow her to see beyond what interaction in 1622, when Puritan leader Edward Winslow presumably
she considered to be a sloppy and haphazard wardrobe. From a Native cured Massasoit of what the Wampanoag considered a fatal disease
American perspective, however, the varied and diverse clothing and (Cohen 2009: 66). Sickness and bodily health were spiritually and
adornment worn by Weetamoo and Quanopen embodied their status culturally meaningful for both English and Wampanoag. By curing
Archaeological Review from Cambridge 28.1: 151–168 Archaeological Review from Cambridge 28.1: 151–168
164 Considering Mimicry and Hybridity in Early Colonial New England Diana D. Loren 165
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