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2| Page Textile Appreciation: Sabyasachi Mukherjee Sabyasachi Mukherjee He describes his own collections as ‘an International styling with an In .

” Sabyasachi realized early on that in order to succeed in the international market. Upon his return. bandhani and gota work as a way to both promote and preserve the country’s artisinal heritage. he won the Femina British Council’s Most Outstanding Young Designer of India Award. And thus he focused on using local. Sabyasachi began retailing in all the major stores in India. almost yesteryear look to them but his designs are always modern. he participated in his first fashion week at Lakme Fashion Week where his debut collection earned him rave reviews from both the national and international press. In 2002. In 2001. which took him to London for an internship with designer Georgina Von Etzdorf. His pieces tend to have a vintage. handloom silk as well as regional arts like block printing. handwoven fabrics like khadi. The internship was a instrumental in helping the designer to broaden his world view and design sensibilities. Design style and Inspirations 3| Page . called Sabyasachi the “future of Indian fashion. chic and elegant. Women’s Wear Daily. considered the most respected international trade magazine.Textile Appreciation: Sabyasachi Mukherjee Sabyasachi graduated from the National Institute of Fashion Technology in Calcutta in 1999 and just four short months later launched his own label. it was not about westernizing Indian garments but rather modernizing styles and shapes to create mass market appeal.

with a blend of styles patch-worked with stunning embellishments in a vibrant eclectic color palette to make the feeling of going back to the ancient times. gypsies. it was not about westernizing Indian garments but rather modernizing styles and shapes to create mass market appeal. Sabyasachi realized early on that in order to succeed in the international market. prostitutes. textures. antique textiles to the cultural traditions of his home town. his design sensibility is firmly Indian. and colors cut in contemporary silhouettes have created an inimitable style and given his collections a truly global appeal.Textile Appreciation: Sabyasachi Mukherjee His inspirations range from desert landscapes. 4| Page . Although. texturing and detailing. Kolkata. His main work originates from the traditional clothes and handwork with patches and sequences. Sabyasachi Mukherjee’s style mantra is fusion and his design philosophy is straight and simple – ‘Intuition makes a garment work not rules ’. and at the same time they are very contemporary. He believes that designing should just be an extension of one's intellect. He uses remarkable fabrics. his unique combination of prints.His collections are characterized by a very "vintage" feel.

chiffons and organza. organic fabrics and woven patterns. handloom silk as well as regional arts like block printing. Sabyasachi Mukherjee is a well-known designer for choosing earthy hues. His fabrics are predominantly khadhi.Textile Appreciation: Sabyasachi Mukherjee Textiles and Techniques He gives importance to the Indian textiles. bandhani and gota work as a way to both promote and preserve the country’s artisinal heritage. georgettes. He chooses fabrics that always have a traditional inspiration and an Indian touch to it. He makes sure that the fabrics he uses for his collections undergo a lot of treatment to give them a "streetside" look and feel. cottons. Andhra Pradesh and Rajasthan which brings out the strong essence of India and its culture. handicrafts and handlooms." His favorite fabrics include cotton voils. Bihar. He has seamlessly experimented with a traditional Bengali embroidery form called "kantha-stich. 5| Page . Often the fabrics are burned and bleached to give them the right shade and texture. he focused on using local. handwoven fabrics like khadi. woven and hand dyed textiles with an electric mix of weaves which are diversified from Bengal.

. Sabyasachi added touches of Kathak 6| Page and Kathakali for the silhouettes.Textile Appreciation: Sabyasachi Mukherjee Design collections Lakme fashion week winter’festive 2011 Sabyasachi Presented the look of the North West Frontier Province and the styles favoured by the girls in Patiala.

Textile Appreciation: Sabyasachi Mukherjee 7| Page .

spun into yarn by their womenfolk and woven into cloth by men from various specialist weaving castes. Sunderban floral prints were seen on men's churidars. hand-woven fabrics I genuinely love khadi. and edges of swirling kurtas. printing etc) Sabyasachi Mukherjee. brown. silk and velvet and beautiful thread work from Kashmir with Zardozi in shimmering silver with floral designs on boleros. embroidery. he closed Dubai Fashion Week with an all-khadi collection modelled along Western lines. who have stayed faithful to ethnic cultural influences on fashion and enticed clients with khadi. Peasants and artisans in pre-industrial India always wore Khadi that had been made from locally grown Organic cotton. Black. dupattas or saris . orange. waistcoats. tunics. which have been hand woven using hand spun yarn. red. he has drawn Bollywood to the cause. net." The designer put out an all-khadi bridal line last year. black. Khadi or khaddar refers to varieties of coarse cotton cloth. which is why I have used it in all my collections. and dupattas. cropped tops. What's more. khaki. white comprised the colour palette. dressing heroines like Vidya Balan (Paa) and Aishwarya (Ravana and Guzaarish) almost exclusively in khadi outfits on screen. bundis. Sabya has been famously quoted as saying in an interview that he finds it "strange that many Indian designers have nothing to do with local. cholis.Textile Appreciation: Sabyasachi Mukherjee Textiles used Sabyasachi Used khadi. Last month. as would the techniques used for its decoration (dyeing. with his passion for Indian textiles. organza. The precise technology involved in the production of Khadi would vary from region to region. only to watch it fly off the shelves. Its refinement lies in its humility. 8| Page . sherwanis. harvested by local labourers.

Velvet soft piled fabric of silk. Deluxe and super deluxe qualities are also produced as per specific orders. In the interiors market it is used for effects in bedrooms and between rooms. Double-width organzas in viscose and acetate are used as sheer curtains. Organza is used as sari material as well as for embroidered garments. Velvet is woven on a special loom that weaves two thicknesses of velvet at the same time. Beautiful pin stripes are a specialty for shirting. India and Italy. Velvet is a type of woven tufted fabric in which the cut threads are evenly distributed. giving it a distinctive feel. but the most luxurious organzas are still made of silk. Many modern organzas are woven with synthetic filament fibers such as polyester or nylon. It comes from the cocoon of the silk worm and requires a great deal of handling and processing.with a short dense pile. sheer fabric traditionally made from silk. cotton or synthetic material. The fabrics is available as per the requirements in different shades as well as in checks and stripes. and the two lengths of fabric 9| Page . Today China is the leading silk producer of the world. fashion garments. Plain silk is mostly used by exporters for making ladies blouses. Fabrics ranging from 20 gm to 70 gm are produced in this category using both handloom as well as powerloom.Textile Appreciation: Sabyasachi Mukherjee Organza is a thin. Silk the most beautiful of all textile fibers is acclaimed as the queen of textiles. plain weave. The two pieces are then cut apart to create the pile effect. It is produced from highly twisted yarn. A range of thin silk to deluxe qualities are produced in this category using filature. Other major silk producing countries include Japan. The word 'velvety' is used as an adjective to mean -"smooth like velvet". After a starchy finish the fabric gets a rough texture. madeups and scarves. [ Silk organza is used for bridalwear and eveningwear. which makes it one of the most expensive fibers also.

Velvet can be made from many different kinds of fibres. Gold thread is also is used for zardozi work on saris. though this often results in a slightly less luxurious fabric. Velvet was expensive to make before industrial power looms became available. The Kashmiri jaal work is quite popular. but modern dry cleaning methods make cleaning more feasible. It takes months to complete thread work on one shawl. stole or bedspread. The sozoni style embroidery stitching is also very popular. and other decorative designs. The special feature of this type of thread work is that these shawls can be worn on both sides. traditionally silk. Velvet is difficult to clean because of its pile. The sozoni thread work is usually done on the borders of the shawls. gowns and shawls. The most popular form of thread work is the chain stitch that is done on shawls and clothes. with no threads sticking out. and wool. This threadwork is known as embroidery. Cottoncan also be used. maple leaves. mohair. the patterns stitched on one side cone out with the same finish on the other side. Velvet pile is created by warp or vertical yarns and velveteen pile is created by weft or fill yarns. Embellishments and techniques Kashimiri embroidery famous needlework that the artisans of Kashmir are adept at. that is. 10 | P a g e .Textile Appreciation: Sabyasachi Mukherjee are wound on separate take-up rolls. Velvet can also be made from fibers such as linen. Artisans stitch decorative motifs of birds. Brocade patterns are woven on some of the pashmina shawls. Kashmiri jamavar shawls with intricate thread work are in demand all over the world. Velvet made entirely from silk has market prices of several hundred US dollars per yard.

Zardozi adorned the costumes of the court. With one hand the craftsman holds a retaining thread below the fabric.Textile Appreciation: Sabyasachi Mukherjee Zardozi work is an ancient Persian art which has been passed down for many generations. velvet and brocade. studded with seed pearls and precious stones enhanced the shimmering beauty of silk. while the hand below the cloth ties each stitch making Zardozi products not only beautiful but durable. Zardozi has remained as an appliqué method of embroidery. dating back before the Mughal empire. reaching its zenith under the patronage of Emperor Akbar in the 17th century. Intricate patterns traced in gold and silver. while the cloth is pulled tightly over a large wooden frame. 11 | P a g e . The hand above the cloth works the needle. In the other he holds a hook or a needle with which he picks up the appliqué materials. regal side walls of tents and the rich trappings of elephants and horses. Zardozi is fashioned with a needle that resembles a very small crochet hook which is used to run up and down through the cloth. Zari work was mainly done in Madras and Zardozi in Hyderabad until a few decades ago. The art of Zardozi was revived along with many traditional methods of embroidery in the middle of this century. This kind of stitching allows the craftsman to use both hands as he works. Lucknow is home to this finest work of gold and silver embroidery. Today. wall hanging. scabbards. the result is an exquisite goldveined work of art. ardozi embroidery is hand stitched predominately by Muslim men. After days of painstaking labor. much like a sewing machine. Then he passes the needle or hook through the fabric.

sherwanis. tunics. immaculate tailoring along with simple styles which could truly be considered basic The famed Kashmir embroidery appeared on boleros.Textile Appreciation: Sabyasachi Mukherjee Silhouettes Sabyasachi says. It is what girls in Patiala wear while going to schools. Detailing buttons down the Sunderban floral . white. kurtas. It also has influences of Kathakali and Kathak. waistcoats. It's adolescent in feel yet very mature. black. orange. lot of texturing and zardosi. the elephant pants." Black. wide silhouettes. I feel bling can look beautiful if used rightly or else it looks flashy. and dupattas. brown. "My collection this time is based on the North West Frontier Province. The saris with ornate borders at times split into velvet and net edges were teamed with long embroidered cholis. The wide Patiala salwars. red. the cute for the young boys collection will be a the globe. The gleaming embellished bodices and Patiala scaled down versions of the same and girls. bundis. ensured that the sure fire seller anywhere around was restricted to rows of tiny front and the occasional 12 | P a g e with shimmering sleeved velvet smocks with salwars. I have used Khadi and other woven fabrics with Kashmiri thread-work. the flowing palazzos and the cowled pants matched perfectly with the smocks. This collection has got a stark look. khaki. cropped tops. and jackets. the Sunderban floral prints. I have used bling here but in a sophisticated manner. cholis. tunics. and edges of swirling kurtas.

Textile Appreciation: Sabyasachi Mukherjee print appeared on men's churidars. 13 | P a g e . dupattas or saris leaving the majority of the show in solid monotones.

Textile Appreciation: Sabyasachi Mukherjee Design collection Lakme Fashion Week 2008 ‘Sanctuary’ Sabyasachi unveiled a line inspired by wildlife sanctuaries. The outfits were meant to evoke pictures and images in the mind of people who have either visited a sanctuary or seen photos of it. Line is inspired by "plastic farmlands and sugary brothels" 14 | P a g e .

snake and crocodile leather. Linen is laborintensive to manufacture. Linen is a textile made from the fibers of the flax plant. Chiffon is made using highly twisted yarn. His fabric choice was a great mix of the unusual so there was linen. which after processing and finishing attains a soft and smooth texture. plastic. for example.Textile Appreciation: Sabyasachi Mukherjee Textiles used Sabyasachi Mukherjee’s title was Sanctuary for his collection. distressed leather and a lot of zippers which appeared on the seams of the garments. fine cotton yarn in a linen-style weave is called Madapolam. course cotton. a thin but strong fabric is produced on power looms. Linum usitatissimum. The designer said it included inspirations from everything and everybody around the world with touches of the 50s and 70s mixes. Textiles in a linen-weave texture. it is valued for its exceptional coolness and freshness in hot weather. even when made of cotton. Such fabrics generally have their own specific names other than linen. hemp and other non-flax fibers are also loosely referred to as "linen". chiffon. hard painted satin. Chiffons are used for varied 15 | P a g e . but when it is made into garments.

the goal is to give newly produced products a weathered and broken in quality that is sometime more appealing to consumers. Metallic Fabrics for trousers and skirts 16 | P a g e . There are a number of different methods used to distress leather clothing and upholstery. It is formed by a sequence of broken twill floats in either the warp or weft system. Hard painted satin Satin is a cloth that typically has a glossy surface and a dull back.This fabric was hand painted with various floral motifs for this collection. Distressed leather is any type of leather that has been treated to age the appearance of theleather while not weakening the overall integrity of the product. which respectively identify the goods as either a satin or a sateen.Textile Appreciation: Sabyasachi Mukherjee end-uses for ladies garments and scarves/stoles. Often.

Sequins Sequinned saris.Textile Appreciation: Sabyasachi Mukherjee Embellishments and techniques Embroideries Various motifs were embroidered on coats and skirts. skirts and dresses 17 | P a g e .

Hand painted satin 18 | P a g e . retro prints.Textile Appreciation: Sabyasachi Mukherjee Zippers Zippers were used at the seam places Printed fabrics Rose prints.

Jodhpur trousers. metallic fabrics for trousers and skirts and had the most beautiful layered scalloped dresses like the white satin mini. There were slim skirts. dresses with black sequined sleeves and finally a line of shimmering black mini. a splash of couture with silhouettes which were reminiscent of the 50s and 70s with loads of colour. The silhouettes were a blend of the east and west with lean textured cotton suits. brought in some rose prints. short sequined pinafore along with a longer version and a black glitzy batwing dress.and animal motifs of birds embroidered on dresses in muted red. trousers teamed with printed blouses and waistcoat. or a red silk battle jacket. Floral prints -.Textile Appreciation: Sabyasachi Mukherjee Silhouettes Mukherjee presented biker jackets. 19 | P a g e .rose and sunflower -. volume and retro chic. short skirts in fish skin designs. beige and black echoed nature and its elements. Sabyasachi presented a line of pleated baby doll tops. . pants and overcoats with an earthy colour palette. sunflower bolero with blouse and pencil skirt and a few saris with contrast borders and patched cholis. sequined saris. some tiny micro skirts and mini swing textured jackets. tiny micro minis. A mix of textures meant patent leather straps for a black bodice and muted skirt. Shapes. A bit of sportswear. multi striped horizontal velvet skirts. green. the shaded black shining dress. the drop waist maxi pinafores. dresses.

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