ABSTRACT

Documentation of the craft cluster Nuapatna, Maniabandha done by the students of National
Institute of Fashion Technology, Bhubaneswar.The visit to the village kindled a sense of ap-
preciation for not just how beautiful the village and culture is but also the craft being prac-
ticed there in detail. Without whom our country culture will be lost and become a mere part
of history. The most interesting part of travelling to the village is getting to observe nd see the
craftsman working all day and night so closely, learning about their culture and skills and how
perfectly they fit in their small world nd live happily makes it fascinating to watch.
We have kept two poles of research in mind that is Quantative research and qualitative re-
search, Through an indepth study about the craft and the village by the guidance of our
mentors and faculty we made this document which includes the entire detail of the process in
steps, textiles of odisha , how single ikat is different from double ikat, cultural and socio eco-
nomic concept , data analysis gives a brief idea about the life of artisans and explains the craft
in detail. We have also done surveys to get to know the artisans properly and the problems
being solved by them to come up with some aids to their adios.
 ACKNOWLEDGEMENT

A successful report can never be done individually, lest the help and guidance of men-
tor is derived. We, Seejal Mohapatra, Pramita Das, Pragya Jain, Sanchita, Nibedita
Munda, Madhusmita Das and Sibalin Saptadarshini of Fashion Design Department,
5th semester would like to express our gratitude to our cluster mentors Mr. Akula
Charan Nandi and Mr. Bikash Mohapatra for providing us with such notifiable briefs
about the handloom and supporting us to take a step forward for our cluster (Mani-
abandha). We would like to extend our gratitude towards Mr. Neeraj Kumar Sinha ,
Ms. Pallavi and TATA TRUST for helping us understand the region and people.

Secondly, we would like to thank Mrs. Prabha Swati, Asst. Professor ( Fashion De-
sign Dept.) for guiding us and for giving us the right direction toward completion of
the document.

Thirdly, we would like to express our sincere thanks to Mrs. Sobharani Lakra, Centre
Coordinator (Fashion Design Dept.) for arranging the cluster and being a constant
encouragement and support throughout the duration of the cluster.

Besides, we would like to extend our deepest thanks to Binay Bhusan Jena, Director
(National Institute Of Fashion Design, Bhubaneswar) for allowing us to go for this
experience.

Lastly, thanks to our parents for giving encouragement and enthusiasm and invalua-
ble assistance to us. Without all this, we might not be able to complete this documen-
tation.
 CONTENTS

1. Global overview of Indian Textiles

2. Odisha Textiles
3. History and Evolution
4. Ikat
4.1 Types of Ikat
4.2 Single Ikat and Double Ikat
5. The Process
5.1 Raw Materials
5.2 Tools
5.3 Dyes
5.4 Pre-Loom
5.5 On-Loom
5.6 Post Loom
6. Motifs and Designs
7. Demographics
8. Data Analysis
9. SWOT
10. Marketing
11. Supporting Institutions
12. Present Senario
13. Aid to the Ado
14. Future of the Craft
16. Glossary
17. References
 ODISHA

Odisha (formerly known as Orissa) is one of the 28 states of India. Located in Eastern India, it is surrounded
by the states of West Bengal to the northeast, Jharkhand to the north, Chhattisgarh to the west and northwest,
and Andhra Pradesh to the south. Odisha has 485 kilometres (301 mi) of coastline along the Bay of Bengal
on its east, from Balasore to Ganjam. It is the 8th largest state by area, and the 11th largest by population. The
state also has the third largest population of Scheduled Tribes in India. Odia is the official and most widely
spoken language, spoken by 36.6 million according to the 2016 Census.

Odisha lies between the latitudes 17.780N and 22.730N, and between longitudes 81.37E and 87.53E. The state
has an area of 155,707 km2, which is 4.87% of total area of India, and a coastline of 450 km.[52] In the eastern
part of the state lies the coastal plain. It extends from the Subarnarekha River in the north to the Rushikulya
river in the south. The lake Chilika is part of the coastal plains. The plains are rich in fertile silt deposited by
the six major rivers flowing into the Bay of Bengal: Subarnarekha, Budhabalanga, Baitarani, Brahmani, Ma-
hanadi and Rushikulya.

Being a home to temples, wildlife sanctuaries, national parks, long-stretched coastlines, rich flora and fauna
and above all a home to ancient yet amazing traditions and culture, Odisha (Orissa) takes you to the another
stage of spirituality, divinity and devotion. As far as tourist attractions are concerned, the Jagannath Temple,
Sun Temple in Konark, Dhauli Hills, Ratnagiri and Udayagiri Caves, etc are names a few that witness the reli-
gious and spiritual significance of the state of Odisha. In addition, rich traditions, pristine cultures and friendly
people add more spark in the popularity of Odisha.
 Global overview of Indian textiles

India is known for its ethnicity. As far as art and culture is concerned, India features amongst the culturally
rich countries in the world. The country is fortunate enough to possess some highly skilled artisans. They have
increased the fame of Indian handloom around the globe. India has an extremely rich handloom tradition,
distinguished by great aesthetics and mixed art history. It’s the reflection of tradition and values of a particular
place.

The unique and high skill oriented process for creating the exquisite fabric has helped the handloom tradition
to survive one slot of automatic production system. It is estimated that presently there are about 4.6 million
handlooms in the world out of which 3.9 million are in India. The ikat technique also called the tie- dye tech-
nique is essentially a process of tying portions of the same thread and dipping them in the dye bath so that dye
penetrates uniformly. It is perhaps a primitive technique to apply a number of colors to woven textiles produc-
ing fabrics with precision and perfection with different colors.

India’s strength derives from its traditional production which commands premium value in the global eco-
nomic activity. Despite the presence of power loom along with all its advantages, the handloom sector has been
able to withstand the competition.

A wave of ethnic revivalism and effective state intervention through final assistance and implementation of
various developmental schemes, traditional and contemporary designs have brought about more than 10 fold
increase in production of handloom fabrics.
 ODISHA TEXTILES

Odisha is a beautiful and an exquisite state en- riched with enormous landscapes and forests.
Be- yond the natural and scenic beauty, lies the people of the state whose main livelihood de-
pends mostly on weaving, thereby contributing to the economy of Odisha. The art of weaving
in Odisha paves its way back to 600 BC when the writing in the stones of Khandagiri were
found. Some more evidences were found from the temples of Sonepur which says that there has
been the existence of weaving prior to 9 AD.

Odisha has a total of 1, 29,236 looms in 1951, 1, 19,005 looms in 1987 and 92,869 looms in
1996. The Odisha handlooms are char- acterized by its vivid and bright colours and unique
patterns. The most important hand- loom products include Bomkai of Kalahan- di, Ikat, Sam-
balpuri, Kotpad of Koraput, Tussar, Kusumi of Nalagarh sarees.
Among the major livelihood options in Odis- ha, handloom has provided a huge source of in-
come for the artisans and weavers. Ikat is one among them which have been woven in cultures
with traditional values.