Report

on
"Handloom Cluster Nuapatana and Gopalpur"
submitted

By
Amit Das

Anand Babu G

Debarati Ray

Meenu Gupta

Neha Dhawan

Rupesh Rawat

Under the Guidance of

Prof. Santosh Tarai (Ass t. Prof. FMS)

Dr. Gautam Saha (Assoc . Prof. FMS )

Submitted
To

Department of Fashion Management Studies,

National Institute of Fashion Technology ,
Ministry of Textiles, Government of India
Plot no. 24, Chandaka Industria l Estate,

Opp. KIIT School of Management,

Bhubaneswar, Odisha.
 DECLARATION

We declare that we have completed the report on the topic "Cluster ofNuapatna and
Gopalp ur".

We also declare that all the taken information has been acknowledged by us.

We have made our full efforts to complete & present the report successfully.

Date: 06/01/2014 (Signature)

AMIT DAS

ANANDBABUG

DEBARATIRAY

MEENUGUPTA

NEHADHAWAN

RUPESH RAWAT

NIFT, Bhubaneswar
 CERTIFICATE

This is to certify that the following students has submitted the report title "Cluster of
Nuapatna and Gopalpur" the Department of Fashion Studies (FMS), National Institute of
Fashion Technology (NIFT), Ministry of Textiles, Government of India, Bhubaneswar
towards the partial fulfilment of the research work of the research work. This particular
research is her original work & has not been submitted to any other institution or university.
She has duly acknowledged & given credit to the data, factual figures as well we concepts
drawn from the numerous secondary sources. This work can be placed before the jury for its
final evaluation.

(Asst. Prof. and CC. FMS)

 TABLE OF CONTENT

1) EXECUTIVE SUMMARY......................................................................................01
2) HANDLOOM CLUSTER - CONTEXT AND OBJECTIVE .. .......................... 02
3) RESEARCH METHODOLOGY...................................................................................02
4) CHAPTER 1 - GLOBAL SCENARIO OF HANDLOOM.........................................03
5) CHAPTER 2- HANDLOOM IN INDIA......................................................................04
6) CHAPTER 3 - ODISHA HANDLOOM: AN OVERVIEW....................................06
7) CHAPTER 4-NUAPATANA CLUSTER..........................................................07
4.1 - INTRODUCTION................................................................................................07
4.2 - EVOLUTION OF THE CLUSTER.....................................................................08
4.3 - STRUCTURE OF THE CLUSTER................................................................11
4.4- FINANCIAL STRUCTURE OF THE CLUSTER......................................16
4.5 - PRODUCTION PROCESS..............................................................................18
4.6 - ANALYSISI OF BUSINESS OPERATIONS......................................................25
4.7-DESIGNS FOR NUAPATANA WEAVERS...................................................29
4.8 - PRESENCE OF SUPPORT INSTITUTIONS AND THEIR ROLE......................31
4.9 - INFRASTRUCTURE ANALYSIS OF THE CLUSTER......................................32
4.10 - SWOT ANALYSIS............................................................................................33
4.11 - VISION OF THE CLUSTER..............................................................................34
4.12- STRATEGY...............................................................................................34
8) CHAPTER 5- 8TH TOSHALI NATIONAL CRAFTS MELA.....................................38
5.l - OVERVIEW.....................................................................................................38
5.2 - COMPONENTS OF WORK/EVENT..................................................................39
5.3- STUDY OF THE WEST BENGAL HANDICRAFT (SHAPAKATHI)..........41
9) CHAPTER 6 - GOPALPUR CLUSTER......................................................................44
6.1 - INTRODUCTION.................................................................................................44
6.2 - OBJECTIVE.........................................................................................................46
6.3-BUSINESS OVERVIEW..............................................................................47
6.4- PRODUCTS.................................................................................................47
6.5-ACTION PLAN.................................................................................................48
 EXECUTIVE SUMMARY
Handloom sector is the largest economic activity second only to agriculture in India. Despite the
presence of the powerloom sector in a big way along with all its advantages, the handloom sector
has been able to withstand the competition. It has also proved its indispensability on certain
fronts. Wave of ethnic revivalism and effective state intervention through financial assistance
and implementation of various developmental schemes have brought about more than tenfold
increase in the production of handloom fabrics. This sector contributes nearly 23% of the total
cloth produced in the country. The decentralised hosiery sector produced 7,837 million sq
metres, whereas the mill sector contributed only 1,433 million sq metres.
Orissa is a beautiful state enriched with huge agricultural landscape and enormous forest
products. Across the unending green fields and forests, the harmonic and rhythmic picking sound
of a fly shuttle in most of the rural huts indicates the importance of the handloom industry and it's
role in the economy of Oris sa. The picking sound is waved from more than 1,20,000 nos. of
handlooms and this sound provides livelihood to more than 5 lakhs of weavers directly and more
than this indirectly in cultivation of cotton, ginning of cotton and marketing of handloom
products . " Khand ua" of Cuttack, "Habaspur " and "Bomkai" of Kalahandi, "Kotpad" of
Koraput, "Parda" of Khurda, "Kusumi" of Nayagarh, " Saktapar" and "Bichitrapar" of Bargarh
and Sambalpur etc. are the unique traditional products reflecting the essence of traditional way of
life with expression of their unparallel depth, range, strength and craftsm anship.
The hand woven silk, cotton and Tussar Tie & Dye Fabrics are one of the major activities in the
NUAPATANA area ofTIGIRIA cluster of Athagarh Sub-Division in Cuttack District, Orissa.
Khandua silk saris of Nuapatna village are very famous in all over India for its excellent
workmanship, design and colour combination. The Tigiria Cluster is about 70KMs away from
District Head Quarter i.e. Cuttack and 100KMs away from State Capital i.e. Bhubaneswar.
Showcasing the best of handloom and handicraft products, the annual National Toshali Crafts
Mela was kicked off at Janata Maidan here on December 15.

This time, the Handlooms, Textiles and Handicrafts Department has organised the 13-day fair in
association with the Tourism Department and the latter will contribute 'one crore for the
purpose. Earlier, the Odisha Tourism Development Corporation (OTDC) was organising the
crafts mela. Sources said as the fair deals with handloom and handicraft products, it was decided
to hand it over to the department concerned.

Gopalpur Handloom cluster is located at the village Gopalpur adjacent to NH-5 in the Dist. of
Jajpur .The cluster comes under Prathamakhandi Gram Panchayat of Rasulpur Block & famous
for production of Tassar clothes. The Development Commissioner, (Handloom), Ministry of
Textiles, Govt. of India has introduced Integrated Handloom Development Scheme for all round
development of identified cluster, in order to provide benefit to the weavers of Gopalpur-I
cluster, under the said scheme.

1
I

HANDLOOM CLUSTER - CONTEXT AND OBJECTIVE

Definition - Handloom cluster may be defined as a place having a large concentration of a

handloom producing hand woven fabrics and also engaging related process like tie and dye other
pre- loom operations.

To create a cluster it requires 500 looms to 3000 looms.

Objective -

• Training for weavers.

• Workshops for weavers concerning areas like production of high quality handloom
products, achievement of minimum defects, health and safety, weavers' rights,
government role in the cluster etc.
• Providing weavers with the loom facility if in case weaver doesn't have any.
• Providing weavers with spare parts required for the loom.
• Providing yarn to the weavers.
• Providing weavers with the work shed if in case weaver doesn't have any.
• Health and life insurance claim are provided to the weavers.

RESEARCH METHODOLOGY

Primary Research:

1. Visit to the cluster - Nuapatana and Gopalpur

2. Interaction with the cluster members and weavers

Secondary Research:

1. Desk research
2. Study of the similar handloom cluster reports

2
I

CHAPTER - 1

GLOBAL SCENARIO OF HANDLOOM

Among the major livelihood options in the world, handloom have remained one important option
and also been the saviors of the various traditional skills that have been inherited by the weavers
over generations. The unique and high-skill oriented processes for creating the exquisite fabrics
have helped the handloom tradition survive the onslaught of automated production systems. It is
estimated that today there are about 4.60 million handlooms in the world out of which about 3.9
million are in India. While the major producers are India followed by Bangladesh, Pakistan and
Nepal, the main importers of textiles & clothing were the USA, UK, France and Italy.

There are different types of handloom products. Ikat is one among them which have been woven
in cultures all over the world. In the 19th century, the Silk Road desert oases of Bukhara and
Samarkand (in what is now Uzbekistan in Central Asia) were famous for their fine silk ikats.
Today Ikat is still common in Central and South America especially in Argentina, Bolivia,
Ecuador, Guatemala and Mexico. Similarly India, Japan and several South-East Asia countries
have cultures with long histories of Ikat production. There are known links between Ikat
production in India and trade of Ikat to South-East Asia. Patola cloth, a double ikat from Gujarat,
used to be exported to Indonesia for the use of the royal families. The patterns in the Patola Ikats
are strikingly similar to the double ikats produced in Bali, Indonesia.

The origin of Ikat process is yet to discover. As such, in spite of the process being essentially the
same, it has been ascribed different names in different countries. It is called "Bandha" or
"Bandhni" or 'Ikat' in India, 'Iyo' - kas uri in Japan, '!ban' in Indonesia and ' Abrdand '. Or
"banded cloud" in Central American countries. However, the term Ikat derives its origin from the
word " Mengika" of Malay language where it means "to bind, tie or wind around". Through
common usage the word has come to describe both the process and the cloth itself. Ikats are often
symbols of status, wealth, power and prestige. Perhaps because of the difficulty and time
required to make ikats, some cultures go to the extent of believing that the cloth is imbued with
magical powers. There are so many other process/types in handloom across the globe.
The global textile scenario is changing and gradually the production base is shifting to
developing nations due to more than one reason. Trade blocs and non-tariff barriers will be
among the challenges that will emerge in the changed market scenario. The industry will have to
integrate itself and go in for vertical specialization to take on the challenges.
I

CHAPTER-2

HANDLOOM IN INDIA

The Indian Textile Industry has an overwhelming presence in the economic life of the country.
Apart from providing one of the basic necessities of life i.e. cloth, the textile industry contributes
about 14% to the country's industrial output and about 17% to export earnings. It provides direct
employment to about 35 million persons including substantial segments of disadvantaged
sections of the society and women . Besides, another 50 million people are engaged in allied
activities.
India's strength derives from its traditional production which commands premium value in the
global market. The diversified fibre base and skilled manpower are the strength. Handloom
sector is the largest economic activity second only to agriculture in India. Despite the presence of
the powerloom sector in a big way along with all its advantages, the handloom sector has been
able to withstand the competition. It has also proved its indispensability on certain fronts. Wave
of ethnic revivalism and effective state intervention through financial assistance and
implementation of various developmental schemes have brought about more than tenfold
increase in the production of handloom fabrics. This sector contributes nearly 23% of the total
cloth produced in the country. The decentralised hosiery sector produced 7,837 million sq
metres, whereas the mill sector contributed only 1,433 million sq metres.
The government has set up the National Centre for Textile Design (NCTD) to promote
traditional and contemporary designs so as to be responsive to the rapidly changing market
demand, thereby providing adequate growth opportunity to the handloom sector. During 2003-
04, NCTD organised a series of exhibitions - Tantavi 2003 on the theme 'Patterned fabrics' in
Delhi, Mumbai, Bangalore, Chennai, Hyderabad, Kolkata and Guwahati, to display new
handloom yardages produced from natural fibres, in natural dyes and patterns based on a
combination of different counts, twists, reeds, picks and weavers. During 2001-02, the Deen
Dayal Hathkargha Protshahan Yogana (DDHPY) was launched to prove assistance to the
handloom weavers in an integrated manner. This Centrallysponsored plan scheme entails nearly
Rs 257 crore of Central assistance for the Tenth Plan period. The scheme aims at taking care of a
wide gamut of activities such as basic inputs like looms and accessories, working capital loans,
product development, infrastructure support, training and marketing support to handloom units.
During 2003-04, the government released a sum of Rs 66.83 crore under DDHPY, Project
Package Scheme and Integrated Handloom
Village Development Scheme (IHVD). During the year 2004-05, there is a budget provision of
Rs 33.97 crore under DDHPY for the states other than falling under North Easter region. The
Handloom Act passed by the parliament in 1985 aims to shield handloom weavers against
powerloom and textile mill operators by reserving certain textile articles (presently eleven in
number) for exclusive production by handlooms.
Handloom products from India enjoy international reputation and have a good demand in the
global market, contributing a significant portion of the nation's GDP. Sheer love of handloom
I

products, its cultural richness and heritage, and exquisite designs and patterns have brought this
industry into global spotlight. Apart from this, there are many other sectors like financial,
marketing, maintenance, and transportation services that benefit from the handloom sector.

Handloom centres also serve as tourist spots attracting a large amount of foreigners. Thus
tourism industry is also indirectly benefited.

Some major promotional & developmental programmes formulated by the office of the
Development Commissioner for Handlooms relate to
(a) input support;
(b) employment generation programmes;
(c) modernisation and upgradation of technology;
(d) market support;
(e) welfare measures;
(f) publicity.
In all the schemes emphasis has been laid on assisting handloom weavers directly, including
upgradation of their skills etc. Handlooms are a part of Indian heritage; they exemplify the
richness and diversity of culture and thence the artistry of the weavers.

Evidences of weaving practiced in India are found in epics like Ramayana and Mahabharata tha t
speak in length about the craft. Needles of bone and woven cotton are seen in ancient
civilizations of Mohan-jo-daro, and Harappa. Even ages before, Indians exported huge quantities
of cotton and silk to other countries. Pieces of cotton fabrics were discovered at the Egyptian
tombs at Fostat. Huge quantities of silk fabrics were exported to China, and Indonesia . Cotton
and chintz fabrics were also exported to Europe and Far East.

Types of Weaving Traditions in India:

• Rural: This portrays the images of a rural life with figures of plants, flowers, people and
animals. Designs are simple and sober.

• Classical: This theme revolves around the royal life which symbolizes the patronage of the
kings and other royal people. Designs are created with elegance and style.

• Tribal: This weaving is mostly made from simple bamboo looms, and is used by tribal
people. Designs exhibit bold geometric patterns and are in strong, vibrant colors. Patterns
speak of the tradition and culture of the people in that geographic area.
 CHAPTER-3

ODISHA HANDLOOM - AN OVERVIEW

Odisha is a beautiful state enriched with huge agricultural landscape and enormous forest
products. Across the unending green fields and forests, the harmonic and rhythmic picking sound
of a fly shuttle in most of the rural huts indicates the importance of the handloom industry and
it's role in the economy of Orissa. The picking sound is waved from more than 1,20,000 nos. of
handlooms and this sound provides livelihood to more than 5 lakhs of weavers directly and more
than this indirectly in cultivation of cotton, ginning of cotton and marketing of handloom
products . " Khandua" of Cuttack, "Habaspur" and "Bomkai" of Kalahandi, "Kotpad" of Koraput,
"Parda" of Khurda, "Kus umi " of Nayagarh, "Saktapar" and " Bichitrapar" of Bargarh and
Sambalpur etc. are the unique traditional products reflecting the essence of traditional way of life
with expression of their unparallel depth, range, strength and craftsmanship. In contrast to the
mosaic like appearance of "Patola" of Gujurat, "Checkboard" and "Chowk" design of
Puchampa li, Andhra Pradesh and "Bandhni" of Rajsthan, the appearance of design and forms of
Orissa have a soft curvilinear effect.

But presently more than 30% of total weavers of Orissa are living under poverty line. The
handlooms in Orissa are located in a decentralised manner and almost 85% of the weavers
household own a single loom only, while less than 1 % have more than 4 looms. It is estimated
that atleast 61% of total handloom production in Orissa moves through master weavers.
Orissa' s handloom base is made of two distinct types of products, the low quality plain fabrics
that are used for towels, dhotis and plain saris (often referred to as 'Janata' or people's cloth) and
the other of high quality, design intensive tie and dye 'Ikat' and 'Bomkai' fabrics. While the first
category of low quality - low skill handloom production has been facing the stiff competition
from power looms at the price front, the other category of high skill- high quality fabrics, which
have bought fame for the state, have not been able to reach out to the desired markets in a
sustained manner. The cluster of Nuapatna holds special significance since it produces silk ikat
in large quantities unlike most other ikat clusters of Orissa, which are mainly into cotton ikat
fabrics.
 Chapter-4

NUAPATANA CLUSTER

4.1 - INTRODUCTION

The hand woven sil k, cotton and Tussar Tie & Dye Fabrics are one of the major activ iti es in the
NU APATANA area of TIGIRIA cluster of Athagarh Sub-Division in Cuttack Distr ict, Oriss a.
Khandua silk saris of Nuapatna village are very famous in all over India for its excellent
workmansh i p, design and colour combination. The Tigiria Cluster is about 70KMs away from
District Head Quarter i. e. Cuttack and 100KMs away from State Capital i. e. Bhubaneswar .
Always Bus facilities are available at Cuttack & Bhubaneswar to reach Nuapatna , Tigiria on
road. Raj Athagarh & Ghantikhala are the nearest Railway stations of the cluster. Nuapatna is a
Panchayat having 5000 weavers with 2183 looms which is the main village of Tigiria Cluster.
The total registered looms are 2083. Nuapatna cluster comprises of Nuapatna G.P and
Jemadeipur G.P. within 2 kms radius of Nuapatna village. There are 1350 weaving house hold
with 7000 weavers population stay in the cluster . The art of weaving of Nuapatna Cluster is
linked with Lord Jagannath since inception. Few weavers of this area weave special fabrics for
the Lord Jagannath for different occasions. Nuapatna Cluster had prominence in the Indian Silk
Industry as it was one of the 3 potential places of the Tussar Producing areas of the Country.
Five exporters had established their organization at Nuapatna during the period from 1965 to
1995 for production and exports of Tussar and Tussar blended fabric like TGN to European
Country, Japan. Due to change of poli cy and market trend at National and International Market ,
the production of Tussar product gradually reduced and the weaver of this area shifted to
weaving of cotton & silk Tie & Dye sari for local & outside State Market.

7
4.2 - EVOLUTION OF CLUSTER

Nuapatna is the single largest place in the State where there are 7000 weavers with 2083 lo oms .
The art of weaving of Nuapatna is more than 800 year old and is linked with temple of Lord
Jagannath at Puri as few weavers like Sri Madan Naha & Sri Sudam Guin of Nuapatna
specifica lly weave fabric for Lord Jagannath for different religious occasion as per demand of
Jagannath Temple Adm ini stration. Lord Jagannath, Balabhadra and Subhadra wear Khandua silk
sari of special design with extra large spec ificat ion , daily for different " BESA" as per principle
of temple adm inist ration . The colour combinations of these tie - & - dye saris exhibits the ethical
sense of life. Yellow coloured ikat fabric for Lord Jagannath symbolise salvation , green for
Balabhadra symbolising life and red for Subhadra signifying power or shakti. The " BESA" of
Lord Jagannath , Balabhadra & Subhadra is very much famous and the BESA is seen by all

8
devotees and visitors of World. Devotees offer Khandua silk sari to Lord Jagannath for this
different BESA.
The silk tie & dye weaving activities of this cluster dates back to 12th century when great poet
"Jayadev" offered his Gitagovinda through the die and dye saris as stated above. Thomas Motte
visited this cluster (Nuapatna) in 1766 AD and gave an account of weavers weaving silk tie and
dye fabrics including Gitagovinda saris. The tie & dye technique in Nuapatna has reached a high
level of development and craftsmanship during 20th century. In weaving of silk fabrics some
times cotton yarn is used in border warp ikat and pallu weft ikat. The technique produces motifs
in their natural curve form and geometrical motifs are very rarely used. The present practice of
the tie & dye technique at Nuapatna is the outcome of the effort of one popular personality
named Sri Arjun Subudhi and his son Banchhanidhi Das, who generously taught the art of tie &
dye to interested weavers of this area. One school is established at Nuapatna in the name of Sri
Arjun Subudhi.

There are 22 Primary WCS functioning in the cluster. Besides this 29nos. of Master
weaver/Traders are doing their business activities in the cluster. Now 85 SHGs have also started
their initiation to start weaving activities through their SHG. Some leading Primary WCS of this
cluster are supplying cloth to BOYANIKA for its marketing. Besides this some Master
weaver/traders are also supplying cloth to BOYANIKA/ Utkalika for its marketing through their
show room. In return both Primary WCS and Master weaver are getting cloth dues and required
yam both cotton & silk as per their indent.
Besides this, Primary WCS as well as Master Weaver/ Traders and individual weaver are
attending exhibition & expos crafts mela at different places throughout India for marketing of
their product. Further the stake holder of this area also attending the buyers sellers meet at
Bhubaneswar, workshop on Export Management, cluster development programme and also some
stake holders have visited the Karur & Cannanore as exposure visit. Individual weaver of this
cluster is very active. They participate in the election of co-operative society's management and
placed their problem before the management during society A.G.B. They also actively
participate for diversification of existing design to meet the demand of customers. Some master
weave r/traders/SMEs have formed one consortium to develop the handloom industry of
Nuapatna cluster.

Though weaving activities are continuing at Nuapatna since 12th century, after independent the
1st Primary WCS was established in the year 1948 after introduction of Co-operative Movement
in the State. Nuapatna Primary WCS was registered by the D.R.C.S., Cuttack vide No.6 CU
dt.9.9.1948. Subsequently Nuapatna No.2 WCS was registered by the D.R.C.S., Cuttack in the
year 1954 vide No.61 CU dt.2.6.1954 and 3rd and 4th Primary WCS were registered by the
A.D.T., Cuttack in the year 1975 and 1976.
After establishment of Directorate of Textiles, Orissa at Bhubaneswar, massive steps was taken
to organize cooperative societies by enrolling weavers as a member of the societies through the
field staff of ADT, Cuttack and Athgarh. The main object of forming cooperative societies is to
provide full time work to the enrolled weavers and to provide marketing support for their
product. Improved modernized looms with take up motion accessories like <lobby, jacquard, and
other attachment were supplied by the ADT, Cuttack/ Athgarh. Technical guidance was also
provided by the qualified technical personnel of the department and by which new design fabrics
with new technique was developed and hand loom fabrics were accepted by the different section
of the State and outside Orissa. Due to introduction of different new welfare scheme, training
programme by the Directorate of Textiles, Orissa.

This is the only cluster in the state where more numbers of weaver, non-weavers attracted to
accept the weaving trade as their profession to maintain their livelihood. Due to hand loom
potentiality in Athgarh and Banki Sub-Division one Textiles zone was established at Athgarh in
1982 for better administration and technical guidance to hand loom weavers at Athgarh and
Banki Sub-Division. Accordingly, 22nos. of Primary WCS have been registered in Nuapatna
cluster. Besides this number of Master Weaver/ trader and SME are doing their handloom
activities and exploring the market throughout the Country.
For fulfilment of required yam of individual weaver of Athgarh Zone and other Zone, one
Cooperative Spinning Mill i.e. Sari Jagannath Co-operative Spinning Mill was set up during the
year 1980. Due to skill of weavers of Nuapatna and availability of their infrastructural facilities,
five exporters had established their organization at Nuapatna and were producing mainly Tussar
blended fabrics i.e. TG, TGN, TGTN during the period 1965 to 1995.
But due to change of Govt. Policy and market trend of overseas the export market was gradually
closed for those furnishing product. Main reasons are as follows:

• Change in the forest department policies for the Tussar cultivation by which it was
decided to collect revenue towards production ofTussar cocoons as forest products.
• Shift/change in the trends of consumption
• The market of coarser count product like TGTN was gradually come down and demand
for finer count product was increased.
• Ban of Indian Textiles Export to Germany on Eco-friendly grounds.
• Germany and other European Countries announced ban on the Indian Textiles Export
during 1995-97 stating that they are not eco-friendly and some specific dyes used in our
Country are creating skin cancer to some of its user.

Due to above reasons and to accommodate the different situations and to maintain their
livelihood, the weavers of the cluster had diversified for weaving of low cost silk sari targeting
the local and State and domestic markets. Middle class people generally refer to give cheaper
variety of mulberry with Malda silk sari as gift to their relative, children during the auspicious
occasion like marriage, birth day etc.
 As on dat e 5% of the cluster population are in the tussar line while the remaining i. e. 95% of the
weaver have taken up diversified single ikat Tie & Dye mulberry Maida silk sari, cotton sari,
dr ess and furnishing mater ials. Orissa State Handloom Development Corporation was
es tabli shed with a view to providing forward & backward linkages to the unorganized individual
weavers of the state. After closure of the said organization some of the master weavers of the
cluster diverted the route of business towards other marketing channels and Boyanika. During
last decade the co-op. societies become financially weak due to various factors & unable to
provide regular work to their total working members. Hence some of the individual members of the
societies started their own business with Boyanika & other organizations &developed themse
lves as Master Weaver/ Entrepreneurs & accordingly the number of Master weavers
/Entrepreneurs /Traders increased from 10 to 29.

4.3 - STRUCTURE OF THE CLUSTER

4.3(a) - core cluster ac tors and their linkages

Cluster Actors in Nuapatna Handloom cluster can broadly be divided into the following
categories- Master Weavers, Weavers, tie and dyers and State/National awardees. Besides, one
more cluster actor who plays very significant role is the trader who is only into marketing of the
product and not necessarily having any weaving related skill. The cluster growth is primarily
shared by the master weavers and the state and national awardees and the traders who have
moved out of the state to seek for better markets for their exclusive products. The details of the
cluster actors are as follows.

Master Weavers :

Master weavers are the weavers who get the weaving done by contractual weavers by supplying
raw materials, design brief and wage and sell the products through different marketing channels
like shops, traders, BOYANIKA, Sambalpuri Vastralaya, Health Department, Khadi
Gramodyoga organization. There are master weavers who control 1 to 10 to 50-150 looms. The
holding of looms in the cluster is skewedly distributed. There are master weavers who have their
own looms and in certain cases they have a centralised production system/ factory with 10 to 20
looms and hired contractual weavers to work there and producing different type of product like,
cotton, silk sari, dress material, furnishing thana, Gauge bandage etc. and doing their marketing
through different In other cases they only hire contractual weavers who work at their own loom
in their houses. Sometimes also these master weaver traders are purchasing finished product
from Primary WCS/ Individual weaver for its marketing within & outside the State. Most of the
master weaver/ traders are the members of any Primary WCS of this area. But they are doing
their own business by investing own capital or borrowing loan from nearby cooperative
bank/nationalized bank. The general trend is that when weavers acquire sufficient skill and
resource becomes master weaver.

Weavers :

There is a mixed community of weavers from different castes. Generally the whole family
involves in weaving and most of the preparatory works like bleaching, opening of yam,winding
etc. are done by the women and children and weaving and tie and dye activities are done by men.
Household having 2 or more than 2 looms, women also do weaving or help the male members
doing weaving.
The weavers of Nuapatna can be classified into the following categories.

Type-I: Entrepreneur Weaver: These weavers buy their own yam, do weaving and sell
products at local Haats, shops or to traders in the area. They constitute very small portion of the
total weaving population in the cluster.

12
Type-II: Contractual Weavers: These weavers generally work either for Master weavers or
attached to any Cooperative and get wage for their weaving. It is difficult to categories weavers
under private master weavers and under cooperative fold as in most of the households having
more than one loom, it has been observed that the looms are attached to different sources to
avoid risk of not getting wages on time. Most of the weavers are enrolled as members of the
different Primary WCS and getting yarn for production of fabrics as per design and specification
supplied by the concerned Primary WCS and in return the weaver are supplying finished
products to the Primary WCS and getting their required wages as per approved costing. They are
wage earners mainly because of two basic reasons- either they don't have access to working
capital or they don't have skill. Some of the Contractual weavers in the area are organised into
Self Help Groups. Again within this kind of weavers there are following categories.

1. Contractual weavers having tie and dye skill: Tie and dye yams can be divided into two
types based on required skill. One is "Border and Anchal" tie and dye and the 'Other one is
" body" tie and dye. The 1st category of tie and dye requires better skill than the 2nd and hence
done by exclusive tie and dyers who are highly skilled in this technique. The body tie and dye is
generally done by the contractual weavers itself. Those contractual weavers who know these
body tie and dye earn better wage than the weavers who unskilled in this.

2. Contractual Weavers without tie and dye skill: This category of weavers are the weavers
badly affected by poverty. They generally do not have access to working capital and high end
skill. At times, they unable to earn an income which is sufficient to sustain their livelihood. Poor
living standards are reflected in poor housing conditions, poor health, low social status, have no
say in community based decision making processes and are excluded from representative bodies
and inability to ensure proper schooling to their children. The problems faced by the weaver
community include dependence on master weavers, middlemen and traders for generating
demands andin determination of the wages.

Tie and Overs :

There are around 464 exclusive tie and dyers in the cluster. These tie and dyers mainly
produces Anchal and Border tie and dye which requires more skill. Few years back tie and dye
was not very pronounced but gradually people have acquired the skill and day by day the
number of tie and dyers are increasing. Most of tie and dyers are doing single ikat and enlarged
motifs. They are better off than contractual weavers and E weavers, they have an income
substantially lower than master weavers despite possessing similar level of skills as they do not
have the financial resources which allow them to subcontract production.
04 nos. of Dyers are working in the village who are engaged in dyeing of yam for the weavers
and master traders as per their requirement of sheds. They have some specific charges for dyeing
of yam on weight basis.

13
14
National and State Awardees:

There are Master weave rs who have specialised in producing high end products of exquisite
artistries are recognised by the Sate and Central government. These weavers are the main drivers
of innovation in the area of designs and colours and have been able to nurture market linkages
outside the state due to their participations in the various fairs and exhibitions sponsored by the
State/ Central government and thus ensure links with upper marketing channels. They generally
don' t have large production base and depend highly on Government sponsored programmes.
Besides, some awardees work like master weavers and have their own channels.

Yarn Traders:

In the cluster 5 nos. of traders concerning to Handloom activities are there who are trading the
yam and also purchasing the finished products from the weavers for marketing.

Post Weaving Processors (Basani):

After coming out of the products from the loom, these require to be finished for better feeling
and looking and attract the consumers. This process involves a little care for giving sizing
material on the fabric except the pallu and border by stretching tightly length and width direction
and rubbing with the help of a soft cloth. Then wrap round a wooden beam and left for drying
under sun light.

Loom and Accessories supplier:

The basic needs for weaving of fabrics on handloom are loom, weaving accessories like Heald,
reed, shuttles, different varieties of cotton/Nylon cords for tying up of healds, making of healds,
jalla making and other auxiliary purpose and designing devices such as <lobby. But the other
designing machine like jacquard and its auxiliary accessories are generally purchased either from
Varanasi or Calcutta.

Traders:

09 nos. of Entrepreneurs existing in the village who have factory type loom sheds of their own as
well as independent weavers are extending their services by way of
supplying the raw materials, design, colour scheme, etc. to the weavers and receiving back the
finished products (sari) on payment of conversion charges. They have developed contacts with
the traders of the village and other cities of the State/Outside State for selling out the products.

15
4.4 FINANCIAL STRUCTURE OF THE CLUSTER

There exists a good financial commitment amongst weavers' with regards to pay back of loans.
Accordingly, two nationalized banks and one Bank C.C.B provides the much-needed financial
assistance to the cluster artisans. Besides this the cluster receives funding through Chief Minister
4 years scheme especially designed for Nuapatana Handloom Cluster. The Orissa Government
has sanctioned rs.2 crore for this 4 year scheme. Each year the cluster receives rs.SO lakhs for
the implementation of the cluster objective. The segregation ofthis rs.2 crore is as follows :

Diagnostic study /baseline survey- BUDGET 1 LAKH

Its includes tasks like survey for the formation of the cluster, details about how many weavers
are present? What is their work? Etc.. ..

Training and exposure visit for cluster - BUDGET 10 LAKH

It includes training people. Due to constant weaving of the same design, its market demand has
decrease, hence to make them stand out in the market they need to learn new patterns. Like
improvising patterns of Andhra and Manipur into their own designs. For that purpose they need
to visit those areas.

They learn new technology new designs and new management techniques to improve their
business... through sale rate and marketing technique s.

Assistance for organization ofworkshop/seminarfdemonstration - BUDGET 8 LAKH

Workshops are organized for 3-4 days where teaching staffs are called from outside like CET
college of BBSR , NIFT Delhi. They build awareness among the weavers about new
technologies.

Legal entity - BUDGET 6 LAKH

Create their own brand name and geographical indications. Like KHANDUA sarees which are
solely produced and sold by Nuapatna. Even if they develop some kind of machine in the cluster
it will be considered as their own legal entity.

Assisting on setting of a dyeing unit common facility centre - BUDGET 75 LAKH (60
LAKH FROM GOVT. lSLAKH FROM THE CLUSTER)

Installment of CAD for making new design. Infrastructure developmentfor khandua complex on
a govt. land.

16
Organization's participation in exhibitions- BUDGET 9 LAKH

Weavers can be joining fares kike toshali crafts mela on their own and sometimes they can even
pay to be a part of these exhibitions. Like NALCO where they prepare their own exhibition
where all the expenses are bored by the cluster alone.

Engaging professional designers for design inputs- BUDGET 12 LAKH

MRTC- market research and technical consultancy like Central Silk Boardare organizations who
help the cluster to find out about new designs that are in vogue.

Presently they have chosen a retired person from the Central Silk Board as their designer who is
providing new designs to the weavers and the weavers are also developing new patterns from
them.

Skill upgradation- BUDGET 42 LAKH

It consist of weaving training, textile improvement and tie & dye training.

In case the weaver is not skilled enough, they undergo training under good experienced weavers
from outside on weave improvement.Textile improvement teaches how to bring luster in the
clothes and to keep the weave compact and without any defect.How to tie and dye the yam
properly without any defect. VAT dye is used on cotton yams and acid dye on silk yam.

Institution fee- BUDGET 20 LAKH

It includes expenses like electricity, internet ,TADA, salary These are for developing the
weavers, to increase their awareness, motivate them, train them.

This cluster is formed considering two Gram Panchayats, total loom in the cluster- 2183, total
weavers- 7000

Facility provided to the weavers by the govt .-

Training Exposure visit Make them accustomed to new designs and technology

Provide them with house for putting the loom known as workshedlf the weavers don't have
loom, they will be provide with one. Accessories ie. Spare parts for the loom will be provided to
them. Society provide them with the yam.

Biju Gramin Yojana for electricity is provided

Health insurance claim upto 15000.

Mahatma Gandhi Bunagarak Bima Yojana- 60000, incase of death of weavers

17
Cluster's function is only to implement. Amount sanctioned to the cluster is solely for the benefit
of the weavers and their upliftment. WCS is associated with the product ion , procurement of yarn,
providing yarn to weavers , selling their finished goods and providing salary to them. These are
the job of a society. The weavers generally belong to weak financial back - grounds and ha ve
low income marg in s. They continue to use tradi - tional business practices that are time-con -
sum i ng, which eventually block the working capital. On the other hand , basic managements
tools such as financ e, product ion , stock inventory and marketing are seldom used.

4.5 -PRODUCTION PROCESS

Before warp and weft threads take their place in the fabrics, the material must pass through a
brush of operations known as "Preparatory" Processes . Preparation of warp for the loom differs
from preparation of weft.
In the Clu ster, the weavers are doing on both silk and cotton products though the silk
produce s is comparatively more than the cotton. Hence, the processes of work for both are
different.

4.5 {a) - Silk:

18
Warp Preparatio n:

After gettin g silk yam (2 ply mulberry silk) by the weavers the yam is soaked in cold water for at
least 12 hours before degumming. Gene rally , for production of 16 pieces of sari, 2 Kgs of silk
yam is requir ed. Then Degumming is carried out for 1 hr. After rinsing the yam in hot water and
then in cold water, the yam is dyed with desired shade. Then stick cage winding (Hank stand or
shift and stick cage or Natai) of dyed yam is carried out which takes 8-10 days . The hanks so
obtained are passed through sizing process (using, fried rice) and wound to a stick cage which
take s furth er 8-1Odays. The yam on the stick cage is dr ied. This stick cage process is too
laborious, it adds a lot to the cost price of the product. Automatic winders has now been
i ntroduced to do this job, first in experimental basis and then in commercial basis till
sub group i ng of ikat process.
The warpi ng is carried out by using horizontal warping Drum . This process takes about 4 days.
After getting the warp and the warp beam , the Drafting & denting processes are taken up which
takes 2 days. Then the warp is taken to the loom and other arrangements such as heald tie-up,
H arnessing of coloured yam for border us in g, <lobby/jacquard are carried out on the loom which
take 4 days.

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Weft preparation :

Mu l berry charkha silk (filamental Maida) are used for weft. For 16pcs. Of sari, the weaver get
yam about 5Kgs. but the processes are carried out in phased manner. In the cl uster, for designing
the sari, Tie & Dye is the traditional process. For getting design prominently & exact to the
desired motif, the weft yarn is processed in phased manner, i.e. for 2 pcs. 600gms and for 4pcs-
1200gms). The weft yam is available in s ingle form in the market. So, yarn is first plied to 3-4
threads by win ding onto a stick cage in two stages which takes 5-8 days. Then the yarn twisted in
a local process which takes one day. The process followed here is purely traditional, manual and
laborious also. It is i nteresti ng that though the plied weft yam at present is available in the open
mark et, it is not used by these weavers in order to avoid duplication in quality of raw material.
Plyi ng or blend in g process has amp le scope for adulteration in the quality of silk yam which is
not noticed in the naked eye. If low quality silk yam is mixed in this plying process , the
protrudes in the resultant yam develop pilling effect during end use. Therefore it is better to
procur e single yarn in pure form. But automatic plying machine here also can be experimentally
introdu ced to reduce the too much add on labour cost. The yarn is soaked in water for 8-10hrs
b efore degumm ing. The degumming is carried out for 1 hr. followed by rinsing with hot water
and then cold water. Then yam is left for drying within one two days. With UNIDO's in ter vention
during cluster development programme in 2007-08, mechanization of weft
pr eparation was developed and up scaled so as that weaver can save their time and use it for tie
and dye or weaving activity to earn more.
The yarn is again made to 2 ply by winding on to a stick cage which takes two days and after that
the yarn treated with sizing material (fried rice-lia) in a day and again plied by rewinding on to a
stick cage which also takes one day and then left for drying.
The yam is then taken for preparation of tie & dye with the help of these patta (for ensuring the
width & length of the desired fabric) and wooden frame. The yam is arranged in kera form in the
wooden frame and tied with twisted yam the portions which need to be left white in the design.
This process is repeated depending upon the number of colours required in the design. Then
dying of yam is carried out. Mostly Direct, Acid and Metal complex dye stuffs are used in the
cluster during tie and dye process. However Metal complex dyes are now widely used for its
good fastness properties and wide range of sales. All dye stuffs are water soluble. As the name
indicates, metal component is incorporated into Acid dyes to form Metal complex dyes. Dying is
carried out in acidic bath.

Dissolution of dye stuffs:

As pr the desired shade percentage and material weight to be dyed, weight of dye stuff is
calculated and dissolve in warm water to form a paste and then diluted with poured boiling water
up to a measured quantity.

Dye Bath:

Dye bath (still vessel) is set at 400C approximately with M : L (material to liquor ratio) of 1 : 20.
The volume of dye solution is deducted after calculation of liquor ratio. Chemicals like 10% of
Glauber ' s salt, 1 - 2 % glacial acetic acids are added separately.

21
Preparation of material:

The tied silk yarn is wetted in water for 4 - 6 hours with 0.5 - 1% of TR oil and squeezed gently
before entry to dye bath . This is very important because uneven shade will be developed if the
material is not proper ly wetted.

Dyeing Process:

The material in hank form entered into the dye bath with desired li quor , dye solu tion, Glaub er'
s salt and acetic acid at 400C. The temperature is gradually increased to 90- 950 c within 45
minutes. The material is run continuously by steel rod for further 45 minut es. For effective
exhaustion l % of formic acid is added and worked for 15 minutes. After complete exhaustion, the
material is withdrawn, squeezed m ild ly , washed in warm water followed by cold water then
squeezed dried in open air. However for better fastness properties winch dying machines of 10kg
capacity should be i ntroduced here. Here the skill of the dyer /weaver is very much essential to
get the desired design which woven in the fabric.

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 4.5(b) - Productio n related problem s:

Some of the prod uction related problems are as follows:

Fully comm ercial methods are followed for production of Khandua and other Ikat fabrics
without payin g heed towards design clar ity, intricacy or charging consumers choice.
Here produ ctio n lo t is much bigger which makes the design bolder in comparison to designs of
other cl usters like Sonepur, Baragarh cluster in western Orissa.
Wi nd i ng or peg-warping process is very low which necessitates automatic/semi-automatic
win der or warper to reduce labour cost. Lot production in different batches with uniform design
and shade % of similar products is impossible till date which limits the export potent iali ty. Now
prod uction of 100 or 200 pieces of similar products with uniform design and shade % is not
feasible. Some research works are in process at institute of Textiles Techno logy , Choudwar. The
w ork should be accelerated to eradicate the greatest problem of the Indu stry.
Colour b leeding is a common problem. A research and Development cell is inevitable for up
adation of each of the stages involved in production of tie and dye fabric. Colour matching is
:e greatest problem in tie and dye industry. In this technique when any tied material is dyed a
desired portion of material is reserved from dying. But the weight of exact portion to be dyed and
exact portion to be reserved are not found out in this traditional process thereby leading to an
undesired shade and losses of dye stuffs. Colour matching or desired shade percentage can be
achieved only when the weight of material to be dyed deducting the weight of material not to be
dyed is exactly known.
Re cently an automatic mechanized model has been developed to calculate the weight of material
to be dyed and not to be dyed in the Ikat process on sample basis. This kind of technology can
help get rid out of the problem. The R & D cell can be established in consultation with some of
the experts and the cell can look after the following points for cost reduction of Ikat fabrics and
value addition in different methods.
Introduction of automatic winders upto sub-grouping process for both warp and weft
Ikat fabrics which will reduce the labour cost by 20%

• Develop ment of mechanical tying system for bold and geometrical designs
• Development of tie ad dye fabrics shade cards.
• Application of softeners, easy care finishes like anti-crease, wash N wear and durable
press finishes on ikat dress materials (specially for cotton).
• Application of small size winch dying machines for ikat materials
• Application of CAD system for design development
The most suitable eco-friendly reactive-friendly reactive-dye-stuffs is not applied on cotton Ikat
fabric due to its bleeding nature. The technology of production of tie-dye fabrics should be
generalized from a limited no. of skilled weavers. Any reputed designers should study process
involved in the tie-dye technique and grouping particulars of designs before preparation of the
Colour or shade % variation of a particular design in different batch is the greatest problem of
the cluster, which deviates the quality norms. However, it is a positive sign that these fabrics are
till date not produced commercially in power loom.

4.6 - ANALYSIS OF BUSINESS OPERATIONS:

The production cum sale oriented business of handloom Ikat (bandha) and extra warp/weft
ornamented fabrics in the Nuapatna cluster necessitates the raw materials and technical inputs
like

4.6( A) - TECHNICAL INPUT:

W eavers work in looms with accessories including <lobby or Jacquards, jalla sets, tieing and
dy eing accessories winding & warping which are easily available within the cluster. For
p r ep arat ory work and other assistance human resources like tiers, dyers, Preparatory are required
which is available in the cluster.

4.6 ffi} - RAW MATERIAL PROCUREMENT:

F ollowing are the raw materials generally used in the cluster.

• Cotton yarn ranging from 40s NE to 80s NE single and 2/80s NE to 2/120s
NE mercerized cotton.
• Mulberry silk, organzine 16/18 denier to 20/22 denier charakha of same count 2ply, 3
ply.
• Malda (wild silk) of West Bengal and Bihar origin only charakha.
• Tussar of Orissa and Bhagalpur
• Natural dyes, synthetic dyes (eco-friendly) i.e. like Vat, reactive, metal complex
etc withou t carcinogenic effects.
• Eco-friendly chemicals for every process like desizing, scouring, bleaching,
dyeing, degumming etc.
Some of the technical inputs are available in the cluster through traders, middleman, local haats
at higher prices. All spinning mills in Orissa including Sri Jagannath Spinning Mills at Nuapatna
are closed. So the cotton yams are procured from outside the State especially from south. The
weavers of the area got cotton yam at a higher price. For silk also, the cluster depends upon West
Bengal and Kamataka. There is no clear and transparent channel for procurement and
distribut ion of silk and tassar yarn to weavers. The job is done now by the middleman and local
trader. There is a price difference of Rs.200 to Rs.300 per Kg. of material. Dyes and chemicals
available also in the local market are not qualitative.

4.6(c) - Range of products and design s:

The main product of Nuapatna cluster is Tie dye silk Sari (Khandua). Besides this other
product of the cluster are, Cotton & Plain Tie & Dye Sari, dress materials, furnishing, Gauge
bandage, calligraphy, Bomkai silk sari, Tussar shirting, Joda & Sari, Cotton Lungi, dhoti and
Napkin. The range of product (silk sari) is in between Rs.900 to Rs.2700, whereas cotton
sarirange is in between Rs.150 to Rs.550. Similarly dress material range varies from Rs.250 per
set to Rs.1500 per set. They use Bangalore silk yam for warp and Malda silk yarn for weft
purpose. Now finest Khandua Saree in 2 x 2 ply Bangalore mulbery organzine silk production
has started taking place.

The design developmentprocess like paper design - Selection of fabric set - Enlargement of the
design on tying frame (mental memory) - tying of graps - Dyeing - untying unwindingweaving
are non scientifically defined thereby having less control over the uniformity and clarity of
des i gns when produced in different or even some batch.
Most of the reputed designers/Artists corning from design institute are not having basic idea
about the core-content of yam-ikat technique prevailed in the cluster since 12th century or before
more. The designers should have idea about the basic factors responsible for fluctuation of a
design characteristics during manufacturing process like I) Count of yam, ii) Ends and picks/
inch, iii) No. of ends or picks in a sub group during winding iv) No. of ends/picks in group in the
tying frame, v) No. of groups in the tying frame etc.

Therefore most of the designs provided by reputed designer from NIFT, NID or any freelance
origin are not accommodative with the skill, capacity and limitation of tiedye manufacture
process and the designs are fluctuated on fabric. Since it is a special process the paper design
meant for printing, Jalla or Jacquard M/c may not be suitable to Ikat Industry.
Hence the designers should be adopted in a long term and continuous basis at least for three
months to six months in which, a designer will have time to study visualise the stages of each
process during development of ikat designs starting from winding works to weaving at loom
stage and the parameters stated above influencing the design characteristics. Subsequently the
designer should consider the grey areas which fluctuates the desired, colour, style and shape of
the original pattern and plan accordingly evolve an accurate pattern. The designs produced now
are enough and meets the need of Indian domestic market but at a marginal distance from export
market.

4.6 {d) -Credit:

At present due to sharp fall in liquidity position of WCS, the weavers under co-operative fold of
the cluster are unable to get regular work and diverted towards master weavers. The main
funding agency for working capital is Banki Central Co.op. Bank, Nuapatna and UCO Bank
Tigiria etc. are present in the cluster. Major of the working capital have been provided from
B.C.C.B., Nuapatna. Working capital is the pivot which runs the business and maintains the
livelihood of the weavers. The additional inputs like, training skill upgradation, innovation of
new designs, market research etc. can only be effective when all the looms are running
effectively. But due to various reasons, the working capital liquidity of the cluster is very poor.
In general availability of credit is never an issue in the cluster. Banks, particularly the centralized
banks are proactive in lending loans to all categories of weavers. But the cluster has history of
bad repayment, which is mainly due to the fact that most of the credit particularly by the
Contractual weavers are used for consumption purpose and not used for any productive purpose.
The problem is acute in the case of weavers who are in cooperative fold. This problem is mainly
due to the following reasons.

• The desire to ' push ' credit (by organizations) has mainly resulted in delinquency . There
are some cases, where, without adequate preparation, groups and members have been
given loans - lack of training to inculcate credit discipline and also manage IGAs, have
subsequent!):' led to repayment problems.

27
 • Lack of proper loan monitoring and follow-up by the field workers , due to the absence of
an appropriate MIS, is also a key factor that has led to low repayments in some groups.
• No on-time tracking of default loans
• No action (or action without effect) taken by organizations in the light of previous
delinquency problems, has prompted non-repayment in a few other cases - this aspect
pertains to the contagious nature of delinquency.
• Improper Loan Appraisal Lack of Peer Pressure
• Lack of Cohesiveness of SHGs
• Lack of Belief in Continuity of Services (Repeat Services)

4.6(e) - Main markets:

The products of the cluster are marketed in local hat, fairs/exhibition, through local traders, Apex
societies, Traders of outside State. The main marketing places are Cuttack, Puri, Bhubaneswar,
Rourkela, Kolkata, and Delhi. The Apex WCS is lifting the products of the cluster and selling the
product in their own depot functioning throughout India. The Primary WCS and some SME are
attending different exhibitions, expo, conducted every year both inside and outside the State.
Besides this some weavers are also selling their product through different craft mela organized
by the D.C. Handloom in different places in different occasions.

Apart from this recent big buyers include Fabindia and Boyanika who provides much needed
strength to the cluster and weavers in the form of organized buyers of the product produced
under the cluster. The cluster make sure that the weavers are not exploited in any case
whatso ever.
There is a good domestic marketing structure of the cluster with a turn over of 894.90 lakhs
involving local hats, Fairs/Exhibitions/N.H.Expo. Local traders Apex WCS, Traders from
outside State etc.
Though there is a good marketing infrastructure, there is no systematic management of the
infrastructure and no inter relationship between different points. The cluster has no direct link
with international market. Present structure needs: Market survey and research unit involving
quantitat ive, qualitative, fashion design, style and choice factors.
Though there are many steps taken by textile department but not much result has been
achieved in terms of establishing sustainable market linkages with high end market.
The
products are only suitable for domestic consumption inside India. A planning unit should be
evolved with the feedback from market survey unit. There is also a need of forming structured
system to get market feedback for different products and designs and dissemination of the feed
back to the weavers.

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4.7 _ DESIGN FOR NUAPATNA WEAVERS

N uapatana - a village in the Cuttack district of Orissa is a home of skillful, fun loving people.
The village carries with itself an 800 year old history in Ikat weaving. Traditionally produced
and managed by craftsmen themselves, these products were either consumed by the local
population or by people from close by regions. Today these traditional craftsmen communities
are becoming increasingly vulnerable to the challenges of changing socioeconomic realities
brought in by an array of 'emerging lifestyles' . One way to empower the craftsmen to handle
such a challenging situation is to reorient their design skills with quality consciousness and
mark et intelligence . This project "Design Intervention in Hand-woven 'Ikat' Fabrics at
Nuapatna, Orissa" was initiated by the department of Handlooms & Handicrafts, Government of
Orissa .The project formally began in November 2007 through the 'International Centre for
Indian Crafts' at NID and was for a carried out for a period of over 8 months. The challenge was
taken up by Anup Choudhary, a Textile Design student at NID as part of his final project.
After the initial research, the primary focus was shifted specifically towards improvement of
fabric quality rather than just the development of new design range for saris. Training
programmes were initiated to make the weavers understand the necessity of new quality
parameters besides paying minute attention to detailOs like color matching, edge finishing, etc.
These training sessions provided new insights into the weavers' lives. The interactive sessions
gradually extended to deal with the issues and problems from micro to macro-level.
The project did have its share of up and downs. Sometimes work had to be completely stopped
due reasons such as yarns getting stuck to each other due to extremely hot summer in the region,
while on some other days people would simply not work on account of a ceremony in the
village. The most crucial challenge was to build a self sustaining work force, where weavers
would also spend quality time thinking and not just executing designs as instructed by the
designer.
With changing times many elders in the weaver's community felt that the value of a hand woven
cloth is diminishing. Unconvinced with several other design projects done in the region, there
was strong apprehension for any more new design projects. It was a tough task to identify a few
expert and dedicated weavers, initiating sampling and prototyping, building new networks with
select markets and thereafter persuading other weavers from the community to get involved in
making new designs that promised better livelihood opportunities.
 4 _8 _ PRESENCE OF SUPPORT INSTITUTIONS IN THE CLUSTER & THEIR ROLE:
The following are the support institutions are functioning in the cluster .

4.8(a) - Reeling & spinning centre (central silk board):

This Centre existing in the cluster produces silk yarn and selling to the weaver . Apart from this,
Machine Dye i ng Chamb er has been installed by the center for silk Dye in g. Dyeing of weft is not
possible in this machine, because the weft silk yarn is involved in a cumbersome procedure of
Tie and dye yarn preparation in different colours.

4.8(b) - W.S.C., Bhubaneswar:

The Weav ers Service Centre (WSC), the state representative of the office of DC (Handlooms)
Governmen t of Ind ia, is based at Bhubaneshwar and has the jurisdiction over the entire state.
WSC has carried out a number of training programmes on design, technology in the cluster in the
past. The WSC also provides marketing support to handloom weavers through the various
marketing events across the country in which the state' s participation is coordinated by WSC.

4.8(c) - Asst. Director of Textiles:

This Office looks after both administrative and Technical sides of different W.C.S.(s)
funct ion i ng in the Cluster and guide the weavers for taking up new range of products with
modern designs and colours as per the market demand. The Govt. schemes /projects are being
im plemented through the W.C.S. for increasing wage earning of the weavers and marketing
related.

4.8(d) - State Handloom Cluster Development Cell, Nuapatna:

This cluster cell has been established on 01.08.2008 as per the scheme guide lines of the State
Cluster Development Programme for Nuapatna . At present the cell is functioning with 5 resource
p e rsons, including the Cluster Development Executive (COE), Nuapatna. The cell has conducted
base li ne surv ey and started its activities as per approved acivity plan of the scheme.

31
4.S(e) _ BOYANIKA. Bhubaneswar: .
It extends marketing support to some extent, but not like past years due to several reasons.
Recently one D.E.P.M. Project is under implementation for trial sample production of different
variety of fabrics other than the present varieties.

4.S(f} - Tussar Silk Udpadak Sangha (KVIB):

This also extends sustained work to weavers by supplying raw materials and conversion
charges for production of different range of fabrics like Sari, Dress materials, etc.

4.9- INFRASTRUCTURE ANALYSIS OF CL USTERS:

Toe existing infrastructures and some recent steps taken by textile department to improve the
existing ones are as follows. One dyeing units and one sale centre have been provided under
Govt. schemes to 04 nos. of W.C.S. of the area. But except one, others are not functioning
properly. Present ly, in absence of the dyeing un its at societies' level, the weavers are doing their
own dyeing at their cottages or through the dyers existing in the village for which many times
the desired shade is not coming out. Funds for 4 nos. of quality dying units were sanctioned and
the scheme was under implementation. The training programme for dying activities were to be
conducted by WSC, Bhubaneswar when the funds meant for that was surrender to DCH, New
Delhi as per instruction of DTO, Bhubaneswar during 2002 and the units were defunct. One of
these four units i.e. Nuapatna No.2 WCS is taking of dying activities successfully due to
available of personals trained on dying by WSC and other organisations since long. Hence for
other units feedback like trainings, technical inputs etc.are required.
Sale centres were established in the village but are not getting good sales because of the lack of
expertise of the selling men and their exposure to outside market. They also lack selling skill.
It is also felt necessary to think about bleeding of colours of silk products of pallu. This is due to
the reason that the weavers are habituated to dye the pallu portion of the warp with Naphthol
dyes while weaving on loom instead of acid dyes which is not stable to wash. All consumers are
not getting dry cleaning facilities. So before purchasing a silk sari, the consumer has to think
about this side. It can be overcome by way of introducing dyeing of body and pallu separately at
the warping stage which may reduce the no. of pieces taken for weaving at a time.
As a common infrastructure like "Designing and Market resea rch center" is necessary to be set
up at the cluster which will supplying the paper designs to the weaver with colour scheme for
some specific variety of fabrics which have market demand.
In front of the ever changing market choice, this center will act as the exposure to the weaver to
produce fabrics accordingly. The weavers to be motivated in different workshops to do their job
with little sincerity & responsibility for maintenance of the quality. There is a stated need for
Centralized Training design development centre (national and international level) for the cluster.

32
4.10 - SWOT ANALYSIS:

4. l0(a) - Strengths:

• Production : Nuapatna cluster enjoys adequate supply of skilled work force and raw
materials. Further, its well organized mechanized dyeing infrastructure and ground water
facility works to the advantage of the cluster.
• Finance: There exists a good financial commit - meant amongst weavers' with regards to
pay back of loans. Accordingly, two nationalized banks and one Banki C.C.B provides
the much-needed financial assistance to the cluster artisans.
• Marketing: Nuapatna's produce has a good absorbency potential within the local market.
Moreover, easily accessible communication facilities within the cluster along with the
cluster's goodwill in the State, provides value addition to the products' marketability.
•
4. l0(b)- Weakness:

• Production: Non-avail - ability of quality raw materials at reasonable pnces,

uneconomical warping process, poor packaging, lack of product diversification etc are
some of the limitations of the cluster. Likewise, absence of training to the weavers and
non-availability of modem design inputs such as CAD/CAM and other IT applications
hampers the clusters' progress.
• Finance: The weavers generally belong to weak financial back - grounds and have low
income margins. They continue to use traditional business practices that are time-con -
summing, which eventually block the working capital. On the other hand, basic
managements tools such as finance, production, stock inventory and marketing are
seldom used.
• Marketing: Nuapatna products are incompetent in domestic markets on the grounds of
quality and price. Moreover, high fluctuations in yam cost and lack of product
diversification fails to attract newer markets.

4.l0{c) - Opportunities:

• Production: Introduction of training facilities and modernization of technology would

favour productivity and profitability of the Nuapatna cluster. Also, consortium approach
for the purchase of yam could be used as an efficient cost cutting method.
• Finance: New government schemes for the development of the cluster need to be
initiated. Besides, unexplored financial schemes should be utilised to provide economic
stability to the cluster.
• Marketing: The cluster products should be marketed using the consortium technique, as
this will provide the weavers with a strong negotiating power.
 4.l0(d) -Threats:

• Production: Till recent times, the cluster had been relying heavily on the protection
measures of the government. With the gradual withdrawal of these measures, the cluster
is now feeling the heat of competition from other sectors.
• Finance: There prevails no trust in the weaver's trader's relationship in Nuapatna. In
addition, changes in government policies, lack of weavers' associations and indifferent
attitude of the bankers towards weavers' financial problems puts the cluster's
development process at risk.
• Marketing: Changing trends in the market demand have posed serious threats for
Nuapatna products. Moreover, inferior quality of these products has resulted in reduced
consumer confidence . The Nuapatna products are having an equally tough time trying to
put up with the stiff competition from the Panipat and Rajasthan products as well as from
the duplicate products from Salem that are marketed using the Nuapatna brand name.
The Nuapatna art reflects the rich cultural heritage of Orissa. With the passage of time the
artists have successfully retained the indigenousness of their skills and at the same time
have refined them. They have been known far and wide for the intricate and painstaking
skill exhibited in their fabrics. However, this art has been facing severe competition from
the cheap machine-made products. Their demand has also been adversely affected by the
changing market trends. It is thus very necessary to help this cluster to promote its
valuable art. Working in this direction, the government has formulated an action plan for
the year 2011, 2012 and 2013. This action plan, if consistently adhered to, can do
wonders for the development of Nuapatna cluster.

4.11 - VISION OF THE CLUSTER:

The total turnover of the cluster will go up to Rs. 20 crores from the present level of
15 Crores by the year 2014 through reaching out to national and export markets by
strengthening and organizing the production system, developing sustainable market linkages
with national buyers and export houses and ensure proper quality. This will be achieved through
improving the collective efficiencies of the core cluster actors. Income of the weavers to be
increased by atleast 30 to 40%.

4.12 - STRATEGY:

As discu ssed in th previous section, the core cluster actors are the Master weavers,
weavers, tie and dyers and the state and national awardees. The main drivers of the growth in the
cluster will be weavers and master weavers. The strategy can focus on how to move the actors up
in the ladder of the value chain. It means how the small master weaver can move into big master
weaver category, Entrepreneur weaver into master weaver and contractual weaver in to
en trepr eneur weaver and thus to master weaver. Simultaneously the products of the cluster to

34
reach the right market where it can fetch right price. And hence the strategy can be both_to
strengthen the demand for the product in national and international market and supply of the
product by creating market oriented products, improve quality, enhance productivi ty by
introducing better technology, enhancing the entrepreneurship skills and other inputs like credit
to meet working capital requirement and linking clusters to sophisticated raw m ateria l/
accessories suppliers. Now here comes the question of how to organize these
people in which form, would it be private or cooperative form, become very crucial for the
concerned department to work for the development of the cluster. The emerging development
models across the globe say a micro entrepreneur ready to work in the global market should
preferably be work as a private entrepreneur. In addition most of the cooperatives in the country are
defaults, which essentially lead the government to think about other models.

From the point of view of an intervention strategy, the cluster actors can be grouped as the
groups we mentioned before. The broad strategy for each of these sets of cluster actors the
intervention s would be slightly different in approach but at the same time wo uld be
complimenting each other in order to bring in an overall cluster level change and sustainable
impact.

4.12(a) - Master Weavers and Natio na V S ta te Awardees:

Though the Master weave rs and awardees have some exposure to other markets in the state
and outside the state but still they exist a critical need to take them to new and high end
markets where the product can get a better price. Identification and exploitation of unexplored
market is essential for the growth of the master weave rs and growth of the cluster as a whole.
In ad dition, strengthening the market links of these persons by helping them execute their
a
orders and fulfill the other market demands would be the initial trust building but thereafter
shift from purely market led activities to strategic core activities of expanding the horizon of
their operations by links with exports, new design, fabric constructions and new product
development for the unexplored markets, training for such capacity enhancement and then
common action in non conflicting areas would be the route of building better social capital in
the longer run in the cluster.

4.12(b) - Contractual Weavers/ Contractu al Tie and dvers: These weavers in the cluster are
working either under cooperative fold or under and master weavers . They are contractual wage
earners basically due to two major reasons. One is market related which can be defined as
follows. 1. Lack of knowledge of market. 2. Lack of marketing skill or technical skill of
production. Second is related to production and holding capacity. Due to lack of sufficient
working capital these weavers cannot produce and hold products in lot to supply directly to the
market.
The efforts with these weavers would be initiated with the thrift and credit activities by organizing
them into small groups. The group can have a production base and risk taking capacity to direct
operate in markets. Exposure visits to different markets and capacity building on better marking
activities and skills can help them operate independently in the market. However , soon these
weavers picked up would be taken along the path of full fledged business operations. Credit
facilitation for these networks would be adopted as and when the business needs would aris e. But
here utmost care should be taken to avoid any possible conflict between the existing master
weavers under whom they are working. The relationship with the master weavers would be
maintained all along and the forays would be made in non-conflicting business areas or markets.
Interventions would begin with general exposure and trust building activities so as to organize
these weavers and tie & dyers into cohesive production units capable of taking commensurate
market orders later on. Linking these common production units with suitable market links outside
the state would necessitate their real ign in g of their operating systems, quality management levels
and production systems. The use of common technological inputs and new designs, common
participations in some selected fairs and exhibitions would be the route of their increased cohesion
and evolving of commonly agreed norms of quality management, costin g, pricing and
marketing. Obviously this synergy for business activities would lead to joint efforts for other social
issues too which would then be handled through the involvement of concerned agencies and
experts.
 CHAPTER 5 - 8TH TOSHALI CRAFTS MELA
5.1-0VERVIEW:

Showcasing the best of handloom and handicraft products, the annual National Toshali Crafts
Mela was kicked off at Janata Maidan here on December 15.

This time, the Handlooms, Textiles and Handicrafts Department has organised the 13-day fair in
association with the Tourism Department and the latter will contribute ' o ne crore for the
purpose. Earlier, the Odisha Tourism Development Corporation (OTDC) was organising the crafts
meta. Sources said as the fair deals with handloom and handicraft products, it was decided to hand
it over to the department concerned .

As many as 22 States brought their products to the City of '"_femples. Around 300 stalls was put
up and a tassar silk pavilion was the special attraction this year. Since tassar is considered a
sophisticated handloom product , it was decided to showcase tassar handloom and household
accessories in the pav ili on. Besides , there was live demonstration and sale of tassar items. It was
presided by Chief Secretary JK Mohapatra.

This apart, IO stalls was dedicated to demonstration of weaving techniques of hand loom products.
Likew is e, 30 stalls serving various cuisines including authentic Odia food was opened. It was
adviced by the Chief Secretary to the department to build a replica of Mukteswar Temple arch at
the entrance gate of the festival.
 As many as 200 master craftspersons from across the country participated in the fair which had
over 150 varieties of crafts. Crafts from Odisha included wood and cane inlay work, sea shell
decoration, patta painting, applique work, palm leaf etching, sculpture and silver filigree work .
The fair also had cultural programmes by eminent artistes of classical and folk music and dance.

Many cultural activities like folk dance performances, dance performances by different groups,
musical nights by various artists was also organized during the fair. Various food stalls was also
set up which allow the visitors to relish the scrumptious taste of delicacies from different parts
India.

State Government set a target of business worth ' eight crore during the event and around five
lakh tourists this year.

5.2 - COMPONENTS OF WORK/EVENT:

SI. No. Items of the Event Quantity

1. Handicraft Stall(l0' x 10') 200 nos.
2. Handloom Stall (20' x 10') 100 nos.
3. Demonstration Stall- 20' x 15' (300 sqft.) 10 nos.
Handicraft Stall-5nos., Handloom Staff-5nos.
4. Food Stall (10' x 10') Kitchen (10' x 10') 30 nos.
5. Logistic Stall(l0' x 10') 10 nos.
6. Theme Pavilion 2,000sqft. lnos.
7. Vending Zone (15' x 60') 2 nos.
Handicraft-I no., Handloom-lno.
8. Entrance Gate
1. Main Entrance Gate 1 no.
11. Road side Gate 2 nos.
9. Main Stage (20' x 40' x 3') with a riser for the 1 no.
musicians on both side of the stage, seating
capacity 2000 audiences.
10. Mini Stage(20' x 20') (Open) 2nos.
Height 1.5 ft. with sound and light arrangement for
folk dance, music and other mim cultural
programme (Day & Night)
11. Green room (30' x 15') with Drawing room (15' x 2 nos.
10 ' ) Appox. with attached Toilet, Ladies -1
no,Gents -1 no.
12. Provision of Fountain inside the ground 1 no.
13. Kitchen for 800 to 1000 participants (1200 Sqft.) 1 no.
14. Toilet Blocks for participants separately for gents To accommodate 50 persons at a
and ladies with signage time for gents and ladies separately
15. Toilet block for visitors separately for gents and 10nos. for gents, 10 nos. for ladies
ladies with signage
16. VIP lounge (20' x 15') with signage 1 no.
17. Mini conference hall 1 no.
18. Dining Hall for 800 to 1000 Artisans (Approx. 1 nos.
2000 sqft. with signage
19. Design of parking area for two/four wheelers
20. Proper Sound System and sufficient Light
Arrangement for proper illumination of the Mela
area, parking area, services area etc.
21. General Ambience creation and decoration of the
Mela ground
5.3 - STUDY OF THE WEST BENGAL HANDICRAFT (SHAPAKA Till}:

41
Product ra nge-floor mat, carpet, mobile cover, magazine ho lder, wall pocket, curtain , hat, water
bottle and tiffin box hold er, tv and fridge cover.
Match sticks (ShapaKathi) are used for the manufacture of these products. These sticks are like
grasses that are grown on water and as water dries they are cut and dried . They are cultured
separately by the villagers.

Grown specially in 325 villages of west Midnapur west Bengal covering a population of 2,32,000
people of 39 panchayat samity.

These products are manufactured through weaving in lo om, by tying them with hand and the
third technique involves tearing the sticks with their teeth in to fine sticks and then making the
products with their hand.

The product range starts from as low as Rs. 25 and goes as high as Rs 5000, depending on the
quality of labour involved and the fineness of the product.

They sell their product through different fares organized through out the count ry.

The price of products differ from place to place.

A particular floor mat that cost Rs. 25 in west Bengal will cost Rs 50 in Delhi and Rs. 60 in
Mumbai. ... thus their profit margin increases as they move to Delhi and Mumbai.
 CHAPTER 9 - GOPALPUR CLUSTER

9.1- INTRODUCTION:

Gopalpur Handloom cluster is located at the village Gopalpur adjacent to NH-5 in the Dist. of
Jajpur .The cluster comes under Prathamakhandi Gram Panchayat of Rasulpur Block & famous for
production of Tassar clothes. The Development Commissioner , (Hand loom), Ministry of Textil
es, Govt. of India has introduced Integrated Hand loom Development Scheme for all round
development of identified cluster, in order to provide benefit to the weavers of Gopalpur-I cluster,
under the said scheme. It includes the supply of raw materials (backward li nkages) , the Traders I
master weavers/PWCS/E-weavers (forward linkages) & the support Institution
/organi zation which help the various activities of the entire value chain . Genera lly , that support
organisation include the N.H.D .C Ltd., W.S.C, SERIFED, BOYANIKA, PWCS , SHG, Master
Weavers , C.S.B

There is a population 1000 weavers in 275 house hold , out of which 650 Weavers are affiliated to
IO nos. of PWCS . There are 325 no. of lo oms, out of which 45 nos. are presently utilised for
cotton cloth production and rest 280 for Tassar / Silk product ion. Likewise about 245 nos of
looms are engaged under coop. Sector, 30 nos. of looms under Master Weavers , 30 nos. of looms
under SHGs & 20 nos. of looms by the independent / E- weavers. There are 500 weavers
maintaining their livelihood from handloom activities out of which about 250 women weavers
carry out reeling of Tassar and Ghichha yam from Tassar cocoons and preparatory process. In
the cluster both men and women are engaged in the occupat io n. Men weavers are engaged in
weav ings , warping and dyeing; where as female weavers are engaged in ree li ng, wind ing,
weaving and other pre-loom activities. It is the largest Tassar clothes producing cluster in the state
followed by Makidia in Ba lasore, Fakirpur in Keonjhar & Nuapatna in Cuttack Dist.

The Cluster Development Executives under the Deputy Director of Textiles, Cuttack and are
working for smooth implementation under the guidance and supervision of the Directorate of
Textiles and Handloo m, Oriss a, Bhubaneswar.

45
9.2 - OBJECTIVE:
a) Integrated Handloom Development Scheme
b) Promotion of Handlo om Indus tries.
c) Work-shed cum Housing under CMs Spl. Package Scheme.
d) M.G.B.B .Y Scheme through LIC of India.
e) Health Insurance scheme through ICICI, Lombard
f) Skill up-gradation training under Self Emplo yment Programme.
g) Capacity building of weavers through Training & technological Intervention

46
9.3 - BUSINESS OVERVIEW:

Major product of the cluster are Tassar Yardages viz, MG, TG, MGN, TGN thans, etc. Tassar
stole and scarves / shirting / Joda, Korea Silk / Tassar saree, Cotton Lungi / Bedsheets / napkin /
Dhoti / mat and other furnishing materials. These are mainly marketed by the
PWCS/MWS/SHGs I E-weavers I Traders through the Boyanika (OSHWCS)/ Sambalpuri
Bastralaya, SERIFED, Pvt. traders of Bhagalpur / Champa / Kolkata / Delhi / Bangalore etc.,
Exhibitions and in local markets of the State.

Current Scenario of theCluster:

• No. of Primary Weavers Co-Op. Societies functioning
• No. of SHGs working :12
• Turnover of the Area: (2012-13): Rs. 5.50
crore.

9.4 - PRODUCTS:

• Tussar stole - Rs. 850

• Tussar saree - Rs. 6000

• Cushion cover and furnishing - Rs. 600/mtr

• Tussar Ikat saree - Rs. 1700

• Tussar jala stole - Rs. 650

• Tussar jala saree- Rs. 6000

• Tussar Bandha saree - Rs. 4000

• Tussar Jala and Buti saree - Rs. 4800

• Tussar Buti stole - Rs. 850

• Cushion cover - Rs. 350/mtr

47
9.5 -Action Plan:

SI No. Component No. of GOI GOO Benf. Action Plan

Unit Share Share Share for
TOTAL
utilisation

1 Corpus fund for 1 3 3

Yam depot

2 Skill up-Gradation 20 - 3 3 Training

Training on jan completed
Weaving on
28.02.2009

3 Publicity & 2 0.75 0.25 1 Funds placed

Market/Buyer with
seller Meet BOYANIKA

4 Project 1 year 0.25 0.25 To be

Management Cost Utilised
towards
Consumption
of fuel,
TA/DA for
Project
monitoring

5 Basic Input Utilised &

U/C
a) Margin 22 0.924 0.264 0.132 1.32 submitted
Money
10 0.556 0.161 0.08 0.08
b) New loom

6 Const. of Work 6 1.5 1.5 Utilised &

Shed(BPL only) U/C
submitted

48
 BIBLIOGRAPHY

• http: //orikhandua.com/program/baseline%20&%20ds/Naupatna%20DS MSME%206.6.pdf

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• http: //www.textilescommi ttee.nic.i n/Aug%201-15%20cstudy.pdf

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