Professional Documents
Culture Documents
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KULLU SHAWLS
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Himachal’s Warmth
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UNDER THE GUIDANCE OF MR.VINOD SHARMA
Yashika Chaudhary,Venya Banta,Titiksha Taggar
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ABOUT KULLU SHAWLS
AND ORIGIN (ADA)
DESCRIPTION OF KULLU
SHAWLS (SAD)
MAKING OF KULLU
SHAWLS ON A LOOM (FS-II)
ORGANIZATIONAL SETUP,
STATUS OF WEAVERS (OB)
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ABOUT KULLU (ADA)
Kullu or Kulu is the capital town of the Kullu district in the Indian state of Himachal
Pradesh. It is located on the banks of the Beas River in the Kullu Valley about 10
kilometres (6.2 mi) north of the airport at Bhuntar.
Kullu is a broad open valley formed by the Beas River between Manali and Largi.
This valley is famous for its temples, beauty and its majestic hills covered with pine
and deodar forest and sprawling apple orchards. The course of the Beas River
presents a succession of magnificent, clad with forests of deodar, towering above
trees of pine on the lower rocky ridges. Kullu valley is sandwiched between the
PirPanjal, Lower Himalayan and Great Himalayan Ranges.
Prior to national independence, modern and industrialized clothing products did not
reach much of the rural parts of the nation. The region in which the Kulivi people
inhabit are a temperate region in the Himalayan region, providing an abundance of
Sheep, Ox, and various other furred organisms .Prior to the arrival of more modern
craftsmen, the primary attire was Patti woven to protect against the harsh cold typical
of the region. Following the arrival of a craftsman from Himachal Pradesh, the Kullu
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Shawl became prominent following the introduction of artistic patterns and floral art;
it became a significant article of clothing for most inhabitants of the Himalayan area.
Initially the people of Kullu used to weave Patti which is 18'', 20'' or 22'' wide, and
having an appropriate length. They wove it to fulfil the bare necessity of covering
their body and protecting themselves of severe cold. Menfolk wove Patti for coats
and Suthan (pyjamas) and women used it as Pattus for themselves. Men also made
caps out of Patti, which was originally, woven in natural colours of wool i.e. black,
white and grey.
Until 1936 Pattus were made on the Pitloom, but after that handlooms came into
way, this probably happened because of British influence. When weavers from
Bushehar (Shimla) came to the valley in early 1940's their craft influenced the people
of Kullu Valley. The weavers of Bushehar were acquainted with the geometrical
designs, which they successfully used on Pattus.
In 1942 when Indian film star Devika Rani, daughter-in-law of famous Russian
painter Nicholas Roerich, came to Kullu. She took a zealous interest in the looms
and it was at her request that Sh. Sheru Ram of Banontar village fashioned the
earliest urban size shawl (72" x 36"). On being inspired from Mr. Sheru Ram, Pt.
UrviDhar started manufacturing shawls commercially.
The advent of synthetic threads in Kullu too dates back to 1940's when Busheheras
came to the valley. As there weren't any spinning mills in the valley, weavers started
importing yarn from Ludhiana (Punjab) and used them in pattus and shawls. Most of
these are being imported even today.
In 1957 Kullu Shawl Improvement Centre opened up in the valley and Mr. Devi
Prakash Sharma joined there as a technician. He developed diverse designs, visited
the various co-operative societies and individual weavers and gave them new
designs.
With time shawls are now being manufactured in a wide variety of patterns and the
use of vegetable dyes, which augment an exotic array of subdued colours in
apricots, ochre, rusts, browns, olives and many more, is in vogue.
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DESCRIPTION OF KULLU SHAWLS (SAD)
Prior to early forties plain shawls were in fashion in the valley. With the arrival of
Bushehras from Rampur Busheher (Shimla), the native weavers took to patterning
shawls. The initial designs that were geometrical in outline basically depicted local
flora and fauna. The colors, usually intense, perhaps endeavor to portray the
Kulluites' enthusiasm for life.
Mr. Devi Prakash Sharma who joined Kullu Shawl Improvement Center as a
technician developed diverse designs, visited the various co-operatives and
individual weavers and promoted new designs.
The patterns:
Nowadays, typical Kullu shawls have geometrical designs on both ends. The shawls
may also have floral designs, which may run all over. Each design may have up to
eight colours. Most traditional colours are often bright colours, used to emphasize
the shawl and make it more appealing; however there are instances where the shawl
is made with a more dull colour, such as pastel. Kullu shawls are also crafted in yak's
wool, sheep wool, Pashmina, and other handcrafted material.
Natural fair fleece- ends, imported from Australia are cleaned, carded and spun at
the spinning mills at Ludhiana, Amritsar, Panipat, Kullu, etc. The fibre is soft and well
in worth.
Most of the Kullu shawls are prepared in this quality wool tinted in diverse colours. At
times hand- spun Merino wool may also be used for the weft in the case of the hand-
spun array of shawls.
Usually the count of the yarn used for the body ranges from 2/44's to 2/ 50's. The
count of the reed used maybe 36's, 40's or 42's. Most commonly, a 2/ 48's warp is
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woven using a reed of 42's count- this is considered to be the ideal combination for
weaving the ground fabric as well as the patterned border of the shawl.
Local Wool
This is the wool acquired from sheep bred in Himachal Pradesh. Most of them are
migratory. In summer, the sheep migrate from the villages in the lower plains to the
higher up Himalayan paddocks for grazing with the Gaddies or local shepherds.
Through the glacial iciness, the sheep are brought back to their villages in the lower
Himalayas. These sheep are sheared twice a year during the autumn and spring
seasons i.e. in the months of September and April.
This wool is obtainable in natural white, black, grey and brown. Due to its
coarseness, local wool is usually used for floorings and blankets.
Pashmina Wool
This wool is taken from the under belly of the Pashmina goat existing in Tibet. The
shawls woven from Pashmina range from a fine to super- fine quality. They are pure
and light, yet tremendously warm. Owing to the high cost of labor involved in the
sorting of fine Pashmina fiber they are pretty expensive but trendy.
Angora Wool
This is the wool of the Angora rabbit, procured from the local Angora breeding farms.
These rabbits are imported from Germany. Since they have a very high birth rate
and death rate, they are bred for about two years and then sold off as meat. They
are trimmed once in every three months. Angora wool is enormously warm, soft and
sleek to feel.
Due to its fine quality, it is manually spun only on the 'takli' (i.e. the spindle). It is
originally found in white, brown, grey and black colors and may be dyed in the same
colors as sheep wool. Owing to its fibrosity, it is extremely difficult to weave a 100%
Angora shawl; they are hence woven using merino for the warp and angora for the
weft.
Yarn Used:
Weft- 2/ 44's to 2/ 64's Woollen Worsted , Hand Spun- Pashmina, Angora, etc.
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Patterning- 2/ 32's Woollen Worsted / Acrylic. 2-3 ply.
Weight - If woven in 2/ 48's count the weight of a shawl may vary from 360to
390gms, conditional on the outline & design.
In this type of shawls many new designs can be woven by imparting extra weft for
patterning in place of typical patterning. It is also simplified, less time consuming,
cheaper in cost and commercially viable.
Yarn used:
Weft - 2/ 44's to 2/ 64's Woollen Worsted, Hand Spun- Pashmina, Angora, etc.
Weight - if woven in 2/ 48's count the weight of a shawl may vary from 360 to
390gms, depending on the patterning & design.
In case of the Pitloom, the warp is made manually by winding it around peg- stands
separated by a definite amount of distance. The drafting and denting of the ends is
done by pulling them through the thread heddels and the reed with the help of
fingers. The warp is then set onto the loom, its ends are tied and its tension adjusted
as per the requirement.
The warp for the fly shuttle flame loom is wound on the warping machine. It is
transferred to the warp beam under tension, which is then put on the loom for
drafting and denting. The warp ends are drafted and dented with a reed hook, the
loom tie-ups and tension are re- adjusted and the loom is geared up for weaving.
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The basic structure for the shawl is 2/2 twill woven on a straight or pointed drafting
order. The surface texture could be as follows:
Straight lifting plan woven on a straight drafting plan to give diagonal lines.
Pointed lifting plan woven on a straight drafting plan to give vertical zigzag.
Straight lifting plan woven on a pointed drafting plan to give a horizontal wavy
pattern.
Pointed lifting plan woven on a pointed drafting plan to give a diamond
shaped structure.
The decorative border of the shawls is always woven in a basket weave with the
dove- tailing or slit- tapestry techniques. The coloured graph of the design to be
woven is used as a reference and the number of ends per design is considered.
Cut lengths of the coloured acrylic wool threads are placed in the warp in 2- 3 plyies.
The technique used to produce the pattern is intertwining or the 'dove- tailing'
technique also referred as the tapestry weave.
STATUS OF WEAVERS(OB)
Nearly every dwelling in the valley is involved in shawl weaving. Most of it focuses in
and around Kullu. Lag Valley, Parbati Valley and Beas Valley have higher
concentration of weavers, as it is easy to procure raw- material and marketing
facilities.
There are about 20000- 22000 weavers engaged in the craft. The weavers earn
Rs.20 to Rs.30 per shawl with no designs, Rs.60- Rs.500 per shawl having one
traditional pattern, Rs.80- Rs.700 per shawl having two traditional patterns, Rs.80-
Rs.2700 per shawl having three traditional patterns and Rs.500- Rs.1000 per shawl
with designs all over. The average earning of a craftsman is from Rs.50 per day to
Rs.110 per day. Their economic condition is not satisfactory as weaving a shawl is
laborious and the high cost of raw- material. The handloom weavers also have to
compete with the shawls from the power loom.
Problem of Raw- Material: The non- availability of certain raw- materials locally
causes cost of imported raw- material to be very high. Their increasing costs have
resulted in increased rates of shawls and consequently demand of shawls has fallen.
Efforts should be made to provide ample raw- material at subsidized rates. It may
also be suggested that the quality of locally available woollen yarn from indigenous
wool may also be tried to improve with the efforts of Government of H.P. i.e.
research and development, as Himachal Pradesh is traditionally a wool producing
area and annual wool production is more than 1500 M.T.
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The supply position of Pashmina yarn is influenced by the govt. policies of Jammu &
Kashmir, as Laddakh being the main source of quality Pashmina, weavers mainly
depend on them for Pashmina.
Imposition of sale tax on the purchase of raw- material has increased cost of
production and hence low demand.
The shawl weavers find it difficult to compete with the machine made shawls of
Ludhiana. Consequently they do not get reasonably paid. Due to lack of awareness,
entrepreneurship and proper channels for export the local weavers have to face cut-
throat competition within the valley.
Sincere efforts need to be made on part of the government for imparting latest
technical know- how of the looms for improving the status of weavers of the valley.
PRICES
Cost of these shawls can vary significantly depending on its design and other
factors. Despite its expensive cost hand woven shawls are very popular with its
admirers because of its organic nature(handmade), beautiful, elegant design and its
warm woolen fabric.
Prices of Kullu shawls depend on these factors: design patterns, the amount of those
patterns in shawls, the wool type and the quality of the fabric made of those wools.
Prices can range between Rs. 800/- to Rs 10,000/-. Higher cost shawls are also
available in the market but they are often difficult to find.
Kullu shawls play a very significant role in the economy of valley. It is one of the
major income sources for these people where thousands of them earn their living by
weaving part time or full time. Around 20,000 people work part-time and about
10,000 people earn their livlihood by working full-time. These shawls are made in
valley itself by local people who have inherited their skills from their past
generations. Shawls made in the valley are woven using handlooms and these
handlooms can be found in almost every home in rural areas. These are used to
weave shawls and fabric for other clothes to fulfill their own needs or for commercial
purposes. Kullu shawls are also an important part of heritage of Himachal Pradesh
due to which state government provides many benefits to weavers so this heritage
can flourish and can be preserved.
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Kullu shawls are made using handlooms but these days some outside manufacturers
especially from Ludhiana, are producing cheap factory made material with copied
design patterns and selling it on heavy discounts which is leaving a very bad impact
on original Kullu Shawls' market share and valley’s economy. Consequently it's
discouraging weavers who have been working on this craft for decades making this
beautiful art die a slow death. Handmade kullu shawls are getting a very tough
competition because of its relatively higher cost as it involves a lot of hard work.
State government has recently taken many steps to prevent these crises. Most
crucial of them all is assigning of Geographic Indicator (GI) to Kullu Shawls
(http://hpscste.nic.in/pbulletin/third.html). This GI can only be used to those shawls
which have being produced in the valley itself and have been made using the
handlooms. This practice has been adopted to restrict the sale of powerloom made
shawls in the name Kullu Shawls.
Don't fall for big discounts. Handmade shawls are often very genuinely priced so
discounts are not affordable. So if you're getting heavy discounts, chances are you're
not getting real thing.
Avoid referrals from Taxi drivers. They often get big commissions to refer tourists to
buy factory made shawls/stoles. Rather ask some local person or shopkeeper.
Most of the original kullu shawls vendors are a part of some registered society so
you can ask shopkeepers about it and if they are registered under one then it's safe
to buy from them. List of few well known societies is provided below in next section.
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THE H. P. STATE H/L & H/C DEVELOPMENT COOP. FEDERATION LTD.
The cooperative society in general and the cooperative societies in particular, have a
vital role to play in the Endeavour of raising the standard of living of weaker sections
of society and rejuvenating the rural economy of India.So the contemporary
relevance of a study on apex weaver society in a hilly state like Himachal Pradesh is
evident from this strategy of decentralized growth being emphasized in the five year
plans.
Himbunkar provides training .technical knowhow, raw material and avenues for
marketing to artisans members of 292 affiliated cooperative societies out of which 89
are exclusively of rural women artisans. These functions of himbunkar pave way for
economic amelioration of rural artisans and help in earning to their livelihood through
utilization of time spared from agricultural activities particularly during the winter
season when the areas remain snow clad for months together. The production and
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marketing of Himachali craft products is helping in preservation and upkeep of the
age old tradition of art, heritage and local culture interlaid also trying to mix-up the
latest technology, taste and needs, color mixing awareness of modern era.
To purchase & stock raw material, tools & appliances connected with
handloom and handicrafts industry primarily for use in its own business & for
supply primarily to its member.
To arrange for the establishment of depots for the sale of handloom products
belonging primarily to Apex society and its members. To make arrangements
for dyeing, sizing, calendEring and finishing of handloom products and to set
up for the purpose its own dye house or other processing plants.
To undertake production of handloom and handicrafts goods on its own
account or from members.
To carry out publicity of proposals in respect of handloom & handicrafts
industry by publication of suitable literature, arrangement of demonstration,
organization of weavers conferences, participation in exhibitions & otherwise.
To collect commercial information regarding Handloom & Handicrafts Industry
particularly relating to market conditions, adoption of new designs and
improvement in techniques of production & disseminatesuch information
amongst its members.
To do all such acts as may be conducive to the furtherance of the objects
mentioned above.
The area of operation of the society is whole of the State of Himachal Pradesh.
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ABOUT HIMBUNKAR (O.B.)
Organisation structure of HIMBUNKAR is as follows :-
The
Registrar, Member
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Director of
Industries, Member
Department of Industries,
H.P.Shimla-1.
Deputy Commissioner,
Kullu Member
Regional
Director. Member
Shimla-3
Assistant General
Manager, Member
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Sh. Sham Chand Thakur S/o Sh. Chane Ram
Thakur, Member
Mandi, H.P.
Sh. Chetan
Singh, Member
Secretary
Managing Director,HIMBUNKAR.
The membership of the society at present is 290 including the state Govt. The state
govt. is a member of the federation since its inception
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S.No. Name of the District No. of societies.
1. Kullu 154
2. Mandi 46
3. Kangra 29
4. Lahaul&Spiti 12
5. Chamba 11
6. Shimla 9
7. Bilaspur 8
8. Solan 8
9. Kinnaur 6
10. Sirmour 5
11. Hamirpur 4
12 H.P.State Government 1
TOTAL : 292
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PRODUCTION CENTERS:
PRODUCTION PLAN:
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The federation started its own production plan in June 1989 in order to provide employment to the
weaver’s members of its member co-operative societies and maintain quality control over the
products offered for marketing. a yarn bank has been set up. The primary weavers cooperative
societies and their weavers are given yarn with specific designs to weave and they return products
to the federation in lieu of wages. The scheme is beneficial to the weavers and their societies as they
don’t have to invest on raw material and moreover they also need not to worry about the marketing
of their produce. The quality of the woven fabric is ensured by the federation officials and the
products are made as per specific demand from the market.The production plan works in a following
way :-
The Production Plan as elaborated above is suitable for the weavers having their own looms at their
places. Weavers, who opt weaving as secondary occupation, other than
agriculture/farming/service/apiculture/horticulture etc., like to avail benefits of production plan as
there is no time and place restriction and whenever they spare time, they can weave the fabric. Still
there are skilled weavers, who look out for weaving as whole day job. These weavers who are semi-
skilled too, can weave in a professional manner and their yield would be more than who are doing
the same as secondary profession. For those particular weavers this proposal has been framed and
implementing this would further strengthen the handloom weaving as a whole in the region.
In house training facilities is of utmost requirement as the new weaving patterns, skill and designs
can be disseminated to the trainees under single roof and supervision of expert master weaver.
Similarly, establishment of research and development tools will further strengthen the testing, value
addition and modifications.
BUTTICO (IPR)
CERTIFIED MARKS :
Woolmark
Bhuttico is authorized user of the WOOLMARK logo for all the products being
manufactured by it. To keep up with the quality standards the society has set up its
own Wool Testing Laboratory.It is equipped with the following testing
instruments:
Besides the testing of the yarn purchased by the Society, before it goes into
production periodic samples are also sent to the WOOLMARK laboratories for
rechecking so that there is no compromise in the quality of the products marketed
by the Society.
GI:
GI Logo: A Geographical Indication (GI) is a sign used on goods that have a specific
geographical origin and possess qualities or a reputation that are due to that place of
origin. Most commonly, a geographical indication consists of the place of origin of the
goods. Geographical Indication mark’ is suggestive of its origin – in this case the
Kullu valley.Bhuttico is authorized user of the G.I. No. 19.
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4. Green (Political freedom): Cooperatives have been kept away from the
politics, as may be better suited to it by political freedom.
5. Sky Blue (Industry trade freedom): Please occupation related to their
interests, knowledge.
6. Blue (Agriculture freedom): Become self-sufficient in agriculture - get fair
prices for production
7. Purple (Education freedom): Freedom of education are related to their
interests. In addition to the above, the symbol of freedom of Cooperative flag
is a symbol of unity in diversity.
Bhuttico is authorized user of the Indian Handloom
Sr Contact
Name Position
No. Number
1. Sh. Tek Ram President 9817083536
Sh.
2. Vice. President 9418040057
Brahmswaroop
Dr. Kamal
3. Secretary 9418060572
Kishore
Sh. Gautam
4. Cashier 9418040500
Thakur
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5. Smt. Rama Rani Executive Member 9418094301
6. Sh. Duni Chand Do- 9418205051
7. Sh. Sarbjeet Do- 9418183737
Sh. Baldev
8. Do- 9816019159
Krishan
9. Sh. Balak Ram Do 9816066559
10. Sh. Sita Ram Do 9816063604
District Ex-Office-
11. General Manager 01902-222532
industries centre,Kullu members
Managing
12 Himbunkar, Kullu 01902-222383 do
Director
13 Asst. Registrar CooperativeSocieties, Kullu 01902-222461 do
14 Officer incharge Central Wool Board, Kullu
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