Dabu print

a mud resist process by using wood block.

The Process of Dabu Printing starts with the preparation of mud resist the clay is prepared by finely sieving it.
Calcium hydroxide (Chuna in Hindi), naturally pounded wheat chaff (Beedan in hindi), and gum (gound in hindi) are
the main interdients to make the mud resist. The dug out mud from the dry pond is soaked in water in a separate tank
overnight. The mud resist is freshly prepared before every printing. A mixture of beedan and gound are along with
mud are doughed to make a sticky paste.

Application of mud resist onto fabric TThe mixture is now ready for dabu printing. The mud resist being applied
onto the fabrics using wood blocks. Either the dabu printing is done ona single table while sitting or on a running
table. This depends upon the space availability and comfort an individual printer. To quickly dry the paste, saw dust is
being applied to places where the mud resist is printed. The saw dust also acts as a binder which prevents color
penetration while dyeing. The application of mud resist onto the fabric is followed by dyeing the fabric in a cauldron of
dye. The process may be repeated for double dabu and triple dabu and hence forth. After every dyeing the fabric is
thoroughly washed so as to remove the mud application. Finally the non dyed part where the resist has been applied
is revealed after the washing. some of the color penetrates onto the fabric caused by mud cracking. The result is
veining which gives it batik like look to the fabric.

Dabu or daboo is an ancient mud resist hand block printing technique from Rajasthan. The
practice almost died out in the last century but was revived and is today a flourishing business in
many villages of Rajasthan. Dabu printing is very labor intensive and involves several stages of
printing and dyeing; the end result is therefore very unique and beautiful. Dabu printed fabrics
display a subtle and extraordinary beauty and depth which is appreciated around the world. It has
captured the imagination of modern day designers. Daboo is today frequently used to decorate
many Indian and Indo-western clothes and home décor items.
Origin & History
The art of hand block printing is an ancient one which is said to have originated in China. Over
the years it traveled to India, with the state of Rajasthan becoming the most prolific producer of
hand block printed fabrics. Mud resist printing is a special variation, the origins of which can
be traced to about 675 A.D. Today it is commonly acknowledged that the village of Akola, in
the Chittorgarh district of Rajasthan, is the originator of the unique Daboo printing style which
uses mud resists.
Daboo printing is often grouped together with other Rajasthani hand block prints like Sanganeri
and Bagru, but is in fact quite distinct in terms of its look and method. The designs are said to be
very similar to ‘Batik’ though the techniques used to produce the two are quite different.
 Daboo Sarees (Image: apnnews.com)
Sources of Inspiration

Traditional Daboo designs and motifs are very similar to the motifs used in all traditional
Rajasthani textiles, since the ‘blocks’ used for printing are common to most of these techniques.
They tend to be nature inspired designs of plants, birds, flowers, fruits as well as artistic ethnic
motifs.
Faces behind the Fabric

Daboo printing is essentially a village handicraft, which is now practiced in many rural areas of
Rajasthan. For many, it has become a family business, with the older generation passing on the
secrets of the craft to the next. These artisans tend to produce the more traditional and classic
varieties of prints which are obviously considered the most authentic.

On the other hand, many new-age designers and craftsmen are also making a business out of
producing unique Daboo printed fabrics. They learn the technique from the regional artisans and
then add their own unique twist. The fact is, Daboo printing has become a source of inspiration
for many artists and fashion lovers across the world, which is why many people have taken to
producing fabrics with this ancient mud resist technique of printing.
The Making

The process of Daboo printing is quite complicated, involving many workers and multiple stages
of printing, washing and dyeing. First, the plain fabric received from the mills is carefully
washed to remove any impurities which may interfere with the dyeing process. Then, designs are
meticulously and painstakingly hand printed on to the fabric using blocks which are dipped into
fast dyes. The next and crucial step involves the use of the mud resist which makes this print so
unique. Ingredients like mud, gum, lime and waste wheat chaff are combined to make the
‘dhabu’ or mud resist paste which is then patted over certain parts of the design. The paste is
dried with sprinkled sawdust. This covering essentially protects these parts of the fabric from the
dye used later on, creating a unique and colorful effect.

After this process of printing, the fabric is spread out in the sun where it completely dries out. It
is then dipped into a vat of dye, dried again and finally given a thorough washing to remove the
paste and any excess dye. The dyes used are typically natural vegetable dyes and pastes. Thus the
unprotected parts of the fabric catch the color while the dhabu covered bits remain plain. The
fabric may be dyed more than once in different colors to give each part of the design a different
hue.
Style & Variety

Daboo printing is used to create a lot of different designs and patterns. This includes varieties of
colors and motifs:
Colors and dyes: Traditional daboo prints are made with natural dyes like kashish (grey-
brown) and indigo (blue), as well as yellows and reds derived from fruits like pomegranate.
Today a lot more color options are available to artisans since they are no longer restricted to
vegetable dyes and can use synthetic dyes as well. Fabrics can also be dyed more than once,
creating the double dabu and triple dabu effect with a richer, more colorful look.
Motifs and designs: The typical motifs used are nature-inspired ones of peacocks, mangoes,
leaves, cornstalks (called boota), sunflower (surajmukhi) and animal
figures. Geometric shapes, dots and wavy lines may also be used. The designs thus created are
repeated over and over again all over the fabric. Sometimes, the mud paste cracks and leaks,
creating a distinctive vein like effect similar to Batik.
 Dabu Printed Dupion Silk Abaya Style Suit in Black
Daboo printing is used to create all types of Indian garments, from sarees and salwar kameez to
shirts, tunics and kurtas. Scarves, stoles and shawls printed with daboo designs are also very
common, as well as accessories like totes and jhola bags. Daboo printing is also used to decorate
linens, bedsheets, bed covers, cushions and curtains.
Present Day Scenario & Global Influence

Printed Cotton Jacket in Blue

Today Daboo prints have become famous the world over, much loved for their vibrant and
unique designs and colors. While earlier, they were almost exclusively used to decorate high-end
sarees made of fine cotton fabrics like Maheshwari cotton, nowadays they are used for all types
of garments and in all kinds of fabrics. In particular, silk, crepe and georgette have become very
popular amongst Daboo artisans, mainly because they hold the designs and colors very well.
However, absorbent and resilient cotton fabrics remain the most commonly used for Daboo
printing.
Innovations

Dabu Printed Cotton Dress in Off White and Indigo Blue

This technique has slowly and steadily gained a loyal and admiring customer base across the
world, and this has encouraged the craftsmen to produce new types of designs and patterns to
appeal to their more modern, westernized consumers. Thus, in addition to the ethnic motifs,
modern designs of geometric waves, pop culture graphics and artistic shapes are often used. The
color base has also expanded to unconventional combinations of red, black and green.
Wearing the Work
 Perhaps the most iconic look incorporating Daboo prints is the ethnic artistic one. This
distinctive look is worn by high brow literati, artists and society ladies who love wearing
sophisticated yet ethnic garments like printed sarees. To pull of such a look, a one of a kind
daboo printed sari is essential, along with antique metal necklaces and/or tribal wooden or clay
jewelry.

Hand prints like Daboo also fit in well with the bohemian dressing style, especially when used
for a dramatic effect with western clothes.
Maintenance

Fabrics with daboo prints should be first washed by hand to check the fastness of the colors, after
which they can be machine washed in cool water. It is best to air dry these fabrics to avoid
ruining the brightness of the color. Natural and vegetable dyes tend to be very fast and take a
long time to fade, though repeated machine washes may speed up the process.
Interesting Facts
 Daboo comes from the Hindi work ‘Dabana’ which means ‘to press’.
 Families in the village of Akola that have been practicing the technique for generations keep the
exact recipe of the original mud resist (the ‘dhabu’) a closely guarded secret.
 Along with many other traditional techniques, Daboo printing almost died out in the era before
independence, because of the influx of cheap machine printed alternatives in the market. Interest
in this craft was revived along with the renewed interest in ethnic textiles in the 21st
Mp
For lovers of rich textile traditions: batik and tie-n-dye prints
from Behrugarh, block-prints from Bagh and Indore, and the
intricate weaves of Maheshwari saris
Anurag Mallick & Priya Ganapathy | November 10, 2017

Route & Distances: Indore—56 km/1 hr 15 min—Ujjain/Behrugarh—177 km/4

hr—Bagh—100 km/2 hr 30 min—Maheshwar—95 km/2 hr—Indore
Day 1 INDORE-UJJAIN
Anurag Mallick
A craftsman draws freehand patterns in wax at a workshop in Behrugarh.
Explore Western MP’s textile belt and interact with master weavers and craftsmen in
Indore. The Chepa Marwari community from Rajasthan, once printers of the royal
court of Ujjain, settled here in the 1960s. They specialize in resist printing techniques
like dabu and batik. Drive to Behrugarh near Ujjain to watch this centuries-old
batik technique brought from Gujarat and Rajasthan during Mughal rule. In a tiny
back alley near Behrugarh Jail, artists create elaborate designs using molten wax. Visit
these dye-stained workshops to watch them churn out bed sheets, saris, dupattas, and
stoles in vivid colours. Overnight in Ujjain.

Day 2 BAGH
Abhinandita Mathur
Bagh’s unique craft of thappa chhapai (block printing) using natural dyes, the
formulas for which have been carefully handed down over generations.

Leave early for the long drive to Bagh, where the Bhil and Bhilala tribal communities
reside. The craft of thappa chhapai (block printing) arrived in Bagh with a group of
Muslim Khatri families who migrated from Sindh. Their old craft came to be known
by the name of the village they settled in: Bagh print. Visit the workshop of a family
of expert printers to learn about this fascinating method of textile printing. Watch how
they prepare the fabric, use natural dyes for the block printing, and engage in a
laborious process to the finish. Most of them are national award-winning artists! Buy
fabrics directly from them so they can benefit. Leave with enough daylight in hand for
the 2.5-hour drive to Maheshwar, your overnight stop.
Day 3 MAHESHWAR
Abhinandita Mathur
The Rehwa Society was set up in 1978 by Richard Holkar to revive Maheshwar’s
textile weaving tradition, and provide employment to local women.

An ancient temple town on the banks of the Narmada, Maheshwar was revived in the
18th century by queen Ahilyabai Holkar. She brought in weavers from South India,
and nurtured the area’s old handloom weaving tradition, dating back to 5th century.
However, this craft languished once again when royal patronage stopped after Indian
independence. Until another Holkar, Richard, and his wife, founded the Rehwa
society in 1979 to revive it. Drop in at Rehwa and other outlets like Gudi
Mudi and Tana Bana to watch local weavers create masterpieces from silk, cotton,
and a mix of both. Take a walk along the ghats before returning to Indore.

THE INFORMATION
BEHRUGARH BATIK
Behrugarh Prints
Artists: Haji Sh & Haroon Gutti
Address: 119, Main Road, Bherugarh, Ujjain.
Tel: +91 98276 41290, 98276 37337
Sana Enterprises
Artists: Mehmood Hasan & Mohd Iqbal Badawala
Address: 18/1, Kalalpura Road, Kuwe ke Paas, Bherugarh, Ujjain.
Tel: +91 99075 16622, 98272 14700

BAGH PRINTS
Artist: Mohammed Yusuf
Address: Village Bagh, Dist. Dhar 454221.
Tel: +91 94254 86307, 90098 15786
Email: yusufbaghprint@gmail.com
Artist: Abdul Kadar Khatri
Address: Village Bagh, Dist. Dhar 454221.
Tel: +91 94240 75965, 78692 35037
Email: baghprinter@gmail.com
Artist: Mohammed Rafik
Address: Village Bagh, Dist. Dhar 454221.
Tel: +91 94259 48227
MAHESHWARI WEAVES
Rehwa Society
Address: Ahilya Fort, Maheshwar, MP 451224.
Tel: +91 81200 01388, 84249 99225
Website: rehwasociety.org
Tana Bana Maheshwari Handloom
Address: Mahatma Gandhi Marg, Bazaar Chowk, Maheshwar.
Tel: +91 86026 27811
Women Weave Gudi Mudi
Address: Mandleshwar Road, Gadi Khana, Maheshwar.
Tel: +91 88004 11898