kancheevaram

• The Kanchipuram silk sari is a type of silk sari

 made in the Kanchipuram region in 
Tamil Nadu, India. These saris are worn as
bridal & special occasion saris by most women
in Tamil Nadu, Kerala, Karnataka & Andhra
Pradesh. 
• The saris are woven from pure mulberry silk
 thread.
• The pure mulberry silk and the Zari used in the
making of Kanchipuram saris comes from
South India.
• The border colour and design are usually quite
different from the body.
 History and origin
• The story of the Kanjeevaram silk saree begins in
Hindu mythology. Legend has it that the Kanchi silk
weavers are descendants of Sage Markanda, who
was considered to be the master weaver for the
Gods themselves.
• Settled in the small town of Kanchipuram (Tamil
Nadu), the famous Kanjeevaram saree weave goes
back 400 years. It was during the reign of Krishna
Devaraya (from the Vijayanagara Empire) that the
art really took off.
• Two major weaving communities of Andhra
Pradesh, the Devangas and Saligars migrated
to the town of Kanchipuram.
• They used their excellent weaving skills to
make the silk saree that bore images of
scriptures and figurines found on the temples
around the village.
 Special features
• Since the colour and designs of the body, and the pallu
are quite different, weavers weave both of them
separately and eventually join them.
• You can spot a zig zag pattern (known as the pitni) where
the body meets the pallu.
• It is also quite a common practice to weave the border
of the saree separately and then join the three together.
• The joining of the three (known as korvai) is done with
such precision that even if the saree tears, the border
will not detach.
• Also since the zari is made of three silk threads
twisted with a silver wire, the fabric is
extremely strong and durable.
• This, however, can also add to the weight,
making a regular Kanjeevaram saree as heavy
as two kilos.
 Weaving

• If the mundhi (the hanging end of the sari) has to be

woven in a different shade, it is first separately
woven and then delicately joined to the Sari.The part
where the body meets the mundhi is often denoted
by a zigzag line.
• In a genuine Kanchipuram Silk Sari, body and border
are woven separately and then interlocked together.
The joint is woven so strongly that even if the saris
tears, the border will not detach. That differentiates
the kanchivaram silk saris from the others.
 Design

• Saris are distinguished by their wide contrast

borders.
• Temple borders, checks, stripes and floral
(buttas) are traditional designs found on a
Kanchipuram saris. 
• The patterns and designs in the kanchipuram
saris were inspired with images and scriptures
in South Indian temples or natural features like
leaves, birds and animals.
•  Kanchipuram saris vary widely in cost depending
upon the intricacy of work, colours, pattern,
material used like zari (gold thread) etc.
• The silk is also known for its quality and
craftsmanship, which has helped earn its name
• Kanchipuram saris woven with heavy silk and gold
cloth are considered to be special and are worn
on occasions and festivities.
 Varieties
• Kanchipuram silk sarees were initially a nine-
yard weave but over the years the more
practical six-yard weave was included too. The
original golden and silver zari is also now
replaced by a cost effective metal or copper
zari that manages to hold on to the sheen of
the texture while reducing the cost.
 Price range
• An original saree with pure silk and pure zari can cost
anywhere between Rs.7,000 and Rs.2,00,000.
• To cut down on the cost you also get budgeted
versions like the pure silk plus imitation zari or the half
silk-half synthetic plus imitation zari saree, which
manage to hold on to the sheen of the original, but
lose out on the durability of the fabric.
• These sarees cost a lot less and can be bought at a
price of just Rs.2,000 to Rs.5,000. However, these are
not considered to be originals
Mysore silk
 Mysore silk
• Karnataka produces 9,000 metric tons of 
mulberry silk of a total of 20,000 metric tons
of mulberry silk produced in the country, thus
contributing to nearly 45% of the country's
total mulberry silk.
• In Karnataka, silk is mainly produced in the 
Mysore district. It is a patent registered
product under KSIC. KSIC is an owner of
the Mysore Silk brand.
• The growth of the silk industry in the 
Kingdom of Mysore was first initiated during the reign
of Tipu Sultan nearly 1780-1790AC.
• Mysore silk is produced by the Karnataka Silk Industries
Corporation Limited (KSIC).
• The factory was founded in 1912 by Sri Nalvadi
Krishnaraja Wodeyar, the Maharaja of Mysore.
•  Initially, the silk fabrics were manufactured & supplied
to meet the requirements of the royal family and
ornamental fabrics to their armed forces.
• After India gained independence, the Mysore
State Sericulture Dept. took control of the silk
weaving factory. In 1980, the factory was
handed over to KSIC, a government of
Karnataka industry.
•  Today, products include silk sarees, shirts,
kurta's, silk dhoti, and neckties.
 Origin and history
• The growth of Mysore silk sarees is credited to
the reign of Tipu Sultan in 1785 AD. But what
has kept the craze going is the quality of
fabric, a mix of 100 per cent fine silk and pure
gold zari (which is 65 per cent silver and 0.65
per cent pure gold) that comes together to
create a perfectly stylish piece of South Indian
culture for the discerning global fashionista.
• Legend also has it that Maharaja Krishna Raj
Wadiyar IV went to Britain to be a part of
Queen Victoria’s jubilee celebrations and was
taken in by the machine-made silk fabrics that
the British royalties donned.
• He then went on to order 32 power looms
from Switzerland and began what is now
known as the first production of machine-
made silk sarees in India.
 Special features
• The most distinct feature of the saree is the
use of genuine silk and pure gold zari which
gives it a natural sheen and rich texture. Since
the sarees are exclusively manufactured and
produced, each piece has a distinct mark, that
makes sure of the authenticity and long-
lasting fabric.
 Colours
• The sarees have a standard, single colour with gold
borders and zari on them. While the traditional hues of
orange, red and green are famous, more recent inclusions
are lilac, coffee brown and elephant grey.
• Motifs
While zari is the main embellishment for these saris,
motifs like mango buttis and floral borders are making an
entry onto Mysore silk sarees in order to make them more
appealing and fashionable.
• Kasuti embroidery and Bandhani designs are also seen on
the sarees.
 Varieties
• From producing the traditional Mysore 
silk sarees, the industry has now opened up to
fabrics like crepe silk and georgette. The point
being that these sarees are easier to include in
your everyday wardrobe as they are seen as
less dressy and more casual.
 Current state of the art
• Today it is estimated that nearly 35,000
metres of pure silk fabric is produced per
month and turned into beautiful sarees, dress
materials and dhotis.
• In 2005, the art also got Geographical
Indication (GI) which ensures that there is zero
duplicity in the market and more awareness
about Mysore silk sarees.
• Price range
An original Mysore silk saree can cost you
anywhere between Rs.3,000 and Rs.7,000
depending on the quality of the fabric. The
more expensive ones can go upto Rs.2,00,000.
 Arni silk
• Arni is a town situated in Thiruvannamalai
District in Tamil Nadu. Traditionally, Arni silk
sarees are called as “Dobby variety”.
• These sarees are woven with mulberry silk in
warp and weft by using dobby. The border has
thin line of Zari and or small designs. These
sarees are lighter than Kancheepuram saree
and weigh about 300 - 400 gram.
• These are woven either with one side border or
both side borders, but without interlocking the body
and the border as done in Kancheepuram saree.
• These are woven either with single warp or double
warp and single weft or multiply weft. These sarees
are used mostly in wedding and other important
functions of the family.
The materials used for the production of
Arni silk sarees are mulberry silk, pure gold
zari or half fine (imitation) zari.
 Technique applied

• Arni silk sarees are produced with dobby for

small motif in border. Nowadays, two to three
jacquards with capacity 120-240 Hooks are
also used to produce complex designs in the
border, body and pallu. Sarees are woven in
throw shuttle pit and frame loom fitted with
dobby or jacquard
 How to distinguish genuine Arni Silk Saree

• Pure silk saree with small zari border and less

complicated design in the pallu.
• Lighter than Kancheepuram Silk saree but
heavier than Benarasi Silk Saree.
• No solid or contrast coloured border as found
in Kancheepuram Saree.
• No extra series of warp threads in pallu.