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ITU A|Z • Vol 12 No 2 • July 2015 • 59-68

In search of an ‘Ottoman
Landscape’: Sinan’s works in
Thrace as expression of tangible
heritage

Luca ORLANDI
orlandiluca@itu.edu.tr • Department of Architecture, Faculty of Architecture,
Istanbul, Turkey

Received: February 2015 Final Acceptance: April 2015

Abstract
The aim of the paper is to describe the ‘Ottoman Landscape’ designed by ar-
chitect Sinan in the 16th Century, through examples of architectural artifacts like
mosques, staging posts, caravanserais, complexes, bath and bridges inside the
Turkish border of the Thrace region. The land routes connected the capital of the
Ottoman Empire Istanbul to the rest of Europe were important routes crossing the
Western lands under the control of the Ottomans, to reach other countries and
lands. Thanks to descriptions left by many travelers, we can today have an idea of
the cities, the urban spaces, the landscape and the territories of Thrace during the
Ottoman time, in a period covering approximately the last five centuries.
A description of Sinan’s works in the territory of Thrace is given and analyzed,
focusing on interesting aspects related to the choice of the site, the urban planning
approach and the architectural features. Nowadays Sinan’s works are still visible in
the territory and in the minor centers of Thrace, or outside big cities like Istanbul
and Edirne.
Throughout these investigations and studies we can re-construct and re-shape
the enormous heritage left by him as part of an ‘Ottoman Landscape’, not only
considers in terms of specific and unique monuments that need to be protected,
but also as part of a cultural ‘milieu’ that belongs to our contemporary world. This
landscape needs to be revitalized, to preserve the memory of its historical values
and for its future persistence in the territory.

Keywords
Heritage, Landscape, Ottoman Architecture, Sinan, Thrace.
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This paper will introduce the con- Muslims, Catholics and Orthodox
cept of an ‘Ottoman landscape’ en- Christians. The traces and influenc-
riched by a considerable number of es left by the Turks and the Ottomans
works designed by architect Sinan in almost six hundred years of domi-
through the years during the apogee nation and sovereignty are spread out
of Ottoman Empire in the second half everywhere, still having a remarkable
of the Sixteenth Century. The border- presence in the territory. The prov-
lands between Turkey and Europe, the ince of Rumelia extending from west-
Balkans, being quite rich in terms of ern Turkey to the border of the Aus-
architectural artifacts, still carry the trian and Slovenian territories at the
traces of the Ottoman hegemony in time reached almost Vienna, included
these territories. For this purpose, the countries like Croatia, Hungary, Ro-
paper will consider sections of this ge- mania, Albania, Bosnia-Herzegovina,
ography, located in Thrace, where the Greece, Macedonia, Kosovo and Mon-
works of architect Sinan are a notewor- tenegro. The Turkish word Rumelia (or
thy experience of cultural signals. The Rumeli) can be translated as the Land
building layout, the urban scene and of the Rum, as the Turkish populations
the territorial transformation of those intended the territories belongs once to
lands, seen as a whole, testify a great the Greeks or the Byzantines or more
Ottoman cultural heritage currently generally the Romans and passed lat-
belonging to Turkey and shared with er under their control. This western
its neighbors. As a starting point, this province of the Empire comprise of a
cultural heritage distributed among striking number of Ottoman works of
Turkey and other Eastern European architecture and engineering master-
countries today, can be read as an ap- pieces, precisely illustrating the afore-
proach for a better integration and sub- mentioned ‘Ottoman landscape’, strict-
stantial continuum - hopefully in the ly linked to the Ottoman Civilization.
near future - between the Republic of The works built by Sinan, mosques,
Turkey and the European Union. staging posts, caravanserais, complex-
The research on Sinan’s works and es as the basic example of architectural
the ‘Ottoman landscape’ in Thrace is works as well as the roads, bridges and
based on the PhD dissertation thesis, aqueducts being the main examples
(Orlandi, 2005) which was discussed at of engineering projects define the 16th
the Polytechnic of Turin in May 2005. Century Ottoman landscape through
It was developed inside the PhD pro- small towns and along the caravan
gram undertaken and named: “Histo- routes of Thrace. In this paper it will be
ry and Critic of the Architectural and examined the system routes and tracks
Environmental Heritage”. It can be for the caravans and the station posts
considered as an interdisciplinary field locations, called menzilhane, and the
research inherent to specific areas such bridges or other infrastructures left in
architecture, city planning, landscape the territory related to the great archi-
architecture, restoration, conservation, tect Sinan as well as their current con-
regeneration planning and sustainabil- ditions.
ity. The dissertation thesis investigates The choice of the Thrace region as a
and involves different fields and sub- case-study is also due to the fact that
jects not only related to History of Ar- this area can be regarded as the true
chitecture or Urban History neither it heart of the Ottoman State, centered
should be merely intended as another around two of the three capitals of the
monographic study on Sinan. Part of big empire, the first being Edirne and
this PhD dissertation results was pre- Istanbul the second. So, the choice of 1
The ‘Sinan’ın
sented some years ago to an interna- the region is not solely connected to its kentleri – kentlerde
tional audience, during a symposium 1, relation to the great and unique archi- Sinan imgesi’
(1) and later developed as a publication tecture of Sinan (Figure 1). syposium was
(Orlandi, 2009). The ancient Greeks and Romans organized by
The lands belonging to the Balkan once called the region Thracia or Tra- the Chamber of
the Architects of
Peninsula are marked by the presence cia, which current translation in En- Kayseri, between
of strong multi-ethnical components glish language is Thrace; today portion 6th and 9th of April
and followers of several religions like of it - known as Trakya by the Turkish 2009.

ITU A|Z • Vol 12 No 2 • July 2015 • L. Orlandi


61

vated and re-designed by them. This


was essential for the maintenance of
their big empire with all its necessary
relations and, of course for strategic
purposes as well.2
During their rise in the middle of
the Sixteenth Century, the Ottomans
were able to establish and develop new
cities and villages, commercial centers
or simply multi-functional complexes
along those roads. Therefore, they built
infrastructures like bridges to cross
lands and aqueducts to bring water to
the towns; designed new roads to in-
crease relationships, trades and com-
merce between people and countries,
as well as to move armies, to control or
to enlarge the empire’s borders, follow-
ing a policy of territorial expansion,
Figure 1. The Selimiye mosque in Edirne and they transformed the landscape,
(Photo @ Luca Orlandi). both in architectural and urban scale,
- is the only part of Turkey geograph- by designing several functional ele-
ically inside the border of the Euro- ments, urban features and setting land-
pean continent and it is divided into marks on it. This practice of the Otto-
four main administrative sub-regions man civilization both in the conquered
today: Istanbul, Edirne, Kırklareli and lands and in their own territories has
Çanakkale. The paper is centered on been well analyzed by Gülru Necipoğlu
some specific spots and places where in her studies; while introducing Sinan
Sinan designed some of his master- and his patronage in relation to the ter-
pieces and it doesn’t intend to cover all ritory and the policy, she states that:
the architectural production left by the “The colonization of space through
Ottomans in this region, before and af- settlement […] played a central role
ter Sinan. Through several examples of in Ottoman architectural culture” (Ne-
socio-religious or multi-purpose road- cipoğlu, 2005, p. 71).
side complexes built by Sinan in those Leaving aside the present condition
territories during his long career, the of the routes or the architectural re-
impact of his architectural production mains, for an appreciation of an ‘Otto-
is still visible, in terms of urban and man landscape’ in Thrace, it should also
rural landscape and it is possible to be considered the travel literature as a
recognize main changes and modifica- primary source in investigation of this
tions in the territory itself. kind; in fact, descriptions and sketch-
In the Ottoman Empire in fact, the es left by many travelers, sometimes in
land routes connecting Istanbul to the the form of travelogue or in the form of
rest of Europe – in other words, link- sketch-books, give very detailed infor-
ing the East to the West and vice versa mation which is not always available in
– were an important network of roads the contemporary environment, often
2
For general compromised by a ‘careless’ modern-
information about used by travelers, traders, armies, am-
the Ottoman bassadors, pilgrims and others for cen- ization process. Today it is possible to
administration of turies. The land routes, which crossed have a sufficient idea of cities, towns,
those territories the Western lands, were entirely under urban spaces, transformed landscape
see: Pitcher, and territories of Thrace during the
(1972; Beldiceanu,
the control of the Ottomans; they reach
other countries, connecting many im- Ottoman time, in a period covering ap-
(1980); Bombaci
– Shaw, (1981); portant cities, and were in many cases proximately the last five-six centuries.
İnalcık, (1993); tracing the ancient Roman and Byzan- In this sense, one of the goals of this
(1997a); (1997b); tine tracks. In fact these routes, which paper is to understand architect Sinan,
Mantran, (1999); his patronage and his architectural and
Imber, (2002);
had already existed in the past, were
not only used by the Ottomans as they engineering production in Thrace.
İnalcık – Renda,
(2002). were, but were even improved, reno- Mostly of Sinan’s works are still vis-

In search of an ‘Ottoman Landscape’: Sinan’s works in Thrace as expression of tangible heritage


62

ible in the territory and in the minor


centers of Thrace, outside and in the
surrounding of Edirne, along the roads
and in small urban areas; apart from the
travelers, these lands were often used
by the sultans and their courts during
their seasonal permanence far from
the big city of Istanbul. Centers like
Svilengrad (today inside the Bulgari-
an border), Havsa, Babaeski, Lülebur-
gaz, Çorlu, Çatalca, Büyük Karıştıran,
Ipsala, Tekirdağ, Marmara Ereğlisi, Figure 2. The maksure of Sokollu Kasım Beg
Silivri, Büyükçekmece and Küçükçek- in Havsa (Photo @ Luca Orlandi).
mece, were important caravan halts
on the main land routes arriving from
Western countries towards Istanbul 3.
Unfortunately, a modern highway – re-
ducing travel time between Edirne and
Istanbul to three hours - cuts off those
minor centers and the traffic runs on
a gentle and comfortable road in the
middle of the beautiful countryside of
Thrace, but in the past those almost
forgotten minor centers were very im-
portant staging posts for the politics Figure 3. Semiz (Cedid) Ali Pasha mosque
and the economy of the Empire. in Babaeski (Photo @ Luca Orlandi).
All the still existing complexes in
Thrace, including the ones that are in
ruins, like Sokollu Mehmet Pasha or
Sokollu Kasım Beg in Havsa; Semiz
Ali Pasha in Babaeski; Sokollu Mehmet
Pasha in Lüleburgaz; Rüstem Pasha in
Tekirdağ; Suleiman and Selim the Sec-
ond bridge (under the supervision of
Sokollu Mehmet Pasha) in Büyükçek-
mece are listed below.
The most important building type
among others is the mosque. Examples
are: Selimiye and Defterdar Mustafa 3
For further
Pasha in Edirne; Sokollu Kasım Beg information
in Havsa; Semiz (Cedid) Ali Pasha in about the land
Babaeski; Sokollu Mehmet Pasha in routes system in
Lüleburgaz; Rüstem Pasha in Tekirdağ; Thrace see: Jireček,
(1877); Heywood,
Semiz Ali Pasha in Marmaraereğlisi; (1976-1977);
Davud Ferrah Pasha in Çatalca; Sulei- Figure 4. Sokollu Mehmet Pasha mosque in Heywood, (1980);
man Han in Büyükçekmece (Figure 2, Lüleburgaz (Photo @ Luca Orlandi). Cezar, (1983);
3, 4 and 5). Mandel, (1988);
What’s more, there are caravan- Cerasi, (1998);
Yerasimos, (1991);
serais, like: Rüstem Pasha in Edirne; Zachariadou,
Sokollu Kasım Beg in Havsa; Sokollu (1996);
Mehmet Pasha in Lüleburgaz; Sulei- Zachariadou,
man Han in Büyükçekmece; markets (2002); Klusáková,
or arasta: Semiz Ali Pasha, Selimiye in (2002). An
interesting study
Edirne; Sokollu Kasım Beg in Havsa; on the Ottoman
Sokollu Mehmet Pasha in Lüleburgaz; cities and town into
public baths: Sokollu Mehmet Pasha the Levant can be
in Edirne; Sokollu Kasım Beg in Hav- seen in: Eldem –
sa; Sokollu Mehmet Pasha in Lülebur- Figure 5. Rüstem Pasha mosque in Tekirdağ Goffman – Masters,
(Photo @ Luca Orlandi). (1999).
ITU A|Z • Vol 12 No 2 • July 2015 • L. Orlandi
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gaz; bridges: Çoban Mustafa Pasha in beside the buildings or complexes that
Svilengrad; Sultan Suleiman in Edirne; are partially in ruins or lost forever, due
Sokollu Mehmet Pasha in Lüleburgaz; to a lack of proper preservation or sim-
Sokollu Mehmet Pasha (or Sinanlı) in ply by negligence, but also it should be
Alpullu; Sokollu Mehmet Pasha (?) in overviewed the literature related to the
Marmaracık (Çorlu); Suleiman Han in visual representations of these lands,
Silivri; Suleiman Han/ Selim the Sec- in order to give a more precise idea of
ond in Büyükçekmece; Odabaşı (?) in what it can be revealed today as an ‘Ot-
Halkalı; Kapıağası (?) in Haramidere. toman landscape’. Throughout investi-
(Figure 6, 7 and 8). gations and studies in these centers as
Of course, there will not only be con- well as in the documents and drawings
sidered the artifacts left in the territory, left by many travelers, it is possible to
re-construct and re-shape the enor-
mous heritage left by Sinan, not only
in terms of specific and unique monu-
ments but also in a wide range. A her-
itage that needs to be preserved and
maintained under protection – where
it is still possible – and to be included
in a cultural ‘milieu’ that belongs to our
contemporary world. It seems even su-
perfluous to argue that this ‘Ottoman
landscape’ should be revitalized for the
memory of its historical values and for
Figure 6. Sinan bridge in Alpullu (Photo@ its future, inside a program of sustain-
Luca Orlandi).
able cultural landscape.
The road scheme visualized in Fig-
ure 9 synthesizes the route network
in the Ottoman times departing from
Istanbul towards the West, showing
the main urban centers and the plac-
es in which Sinan designed his works;
three main branches are visible in this
route system: the left road, (or Sol kol)
connecting to Greece and Italy, the an-
Figure 7. Sokollu Mehmet Pasha bridge in cient Via Egnatia; the Imperial Road,
Lüleburgaz (Photo@Luca Orlandi).
connecting Istanbul and Edirne to the
Balkans and the center of the Europe-
an states and the right road, towards
Crimea, Russia and the Black Sea re-
gions.
Sinan was appointed by Sultan Su-
leiman as Chief of the Imperial Archi-
tects, and during his long life served
other sultans, like Selim the Second
and Murat the Third or other import-
ant dignitaries of the court, like vi-
ziers, sultan’s wives or mothers, princes
and princesses and several others. For
many of them he designed buildings
in these lands, including complexes,
baths, fountains and bridges. In these
maps the sites in which Sinan, un-
der the patronage of those mentioned
rulers, worked, both as architect /
engineer and as responsible in chief
Figure 8. Suleiman Han bridge in for the public works, are showing the
Büyükçekmece (Photo@Luca Orlandi). re-designed territories of Thrace, a new

In search of an ‘Ottoman Landscape’: Sinan’s works in Thrace as expression of tangible heritage


64

Figure 10. Sokollu Mehmet Pasha and the


bridge in and the bridge in the townscape of
Lüleburgaz (Klusáková, 2002, 72-73).

Figure 9. The road network of Thrace with


the main three branches and the Sinan’s
works sites (marked as white spot).

landscape, in which Sinan’s quality to


understand the place can be appreciat-
ed. It seems that a ‘site planner’, in the
case of Sinan, is a more suitable defini- Figure 11. The Semiz Ali Pasha complex
tion for him than city planner, a term in the townscape of Babaeski (Klusáková,
indubitably too modern for those days. 2002, 70-71).
Prof. Zeynep Ahunbay first set the idea Semiz Ali Pasha complex in Babaeski
of Sinan’s role in this manner, to define (Figure 11). These original sketches,
precisely his contribution at urban and preserved inside the Leiden library in
territorial scale. Netherland, were ‘unearthed’ by Pro-
Following the traces of Sinan’s ar- fessor Lud’a Klusáková, who analyzed
tifacts ‘on paper’ left in travelogues, them in a very stimulating study on the
some travelers who came across Sinan’s Western/Christian view of the Otto-
buildings in the landscape of Thrace man townscape (Klusáková, 2002).
have been selected, starting from the All these sort of information, both
year 1550: Venetian ambassadors, like in shape of description or visual nar-
Jacopo Soranzo or Marcantonio Bar- ratives, give a precise idea of how ar-
baro, have left descriptions of centers ticulate and complex the urban or
like Lüleburgaz and Havsa, with de- territorial transformations in Thrace
tailed indications of the caravanserais were; moreover how the western trav-
and other accommodation facilities; elers perceived the urban spaces and
French travelers like Guillame Grelot were mesmerized by the architecture
or Nicholas De Nicolay, the Dutch Am- designed by Sinan, as a ‘real’ Ottoman
bassador Ogier Ghiselin de Busbecq landscape, emphasized by landmarks
and the English traveler Peter Mundy as minarets and domes to celebrate and
visited Büyükçekmece area and Silivri, confirm the power and the hegemony
commenting the bridges existing in of the Crescent in those lands.
those areas and the well maintained More than the historical analysis of
roads approaching the capital; Lady these complexes and buildings stud-
Mary Wortley Montagu and Helmut ied in recent years by many scholars,
von Moltke stayed at Edirne, admiring the aim of this paper is to seek for
the impressive mosque of Selim the the changes, which have succeeded in
4
In general, it is
possible to find
Second. 4 these areas, highlighting the landscape many sources on
Some visual material, such as the and the urban spaces in which it is pos- travel literature
anonymous Leiden sketches represent sible to integrate these complexes to- in the Ottoman
the minor centers from Belgrad to Is- day. This is an important issue that still Empire in the
tanbul; in the presented sketches the needs to be evaluated well, because it following texts:
Yerasimos, (1991);
complex of Sokollu Mehmet Pasha and must be considered not only the mas- Klusáková, (2002);
the bridge designed by Sinan, (Figure terpieces left by Sinan in the territory and more recent,
10) connecting the town of Lüleburgaz of Thrace, but also the territory itself, specifically for
to the other centers or staging posts on the surrounding environment in which Sinan’s works, see:
the Imperial Road are very well depict- those buildings have existed in the past Necipoğlu, (2005);
Orlandi, (2009).
ed as well as the skyline defined by the and how the same buildings are seen
ITU A|Z • Vol 12 No 2 • July 2015 • L. Orlandi
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today, admired or even used, in order the aesthetic appreciation for a complex
to survive. or a single masterpiece, but instead, in-
The ‘Ottoman landscape’ that can sisting in the urban and regional scale,
be described in this context, cannot the interest goes to the impact of those
be thought within the scope of an old buildings and sites designed by Sinan in
fashioned romantic vision any lon- relation to the environment, in a large
ger; a passionate and intense view of sense; therefore it can be taken under
a beautiful nature or a city, a village, consideration the territorial policy of
reminiscent of old postcards. Today Sinan’s patrons and how the architect
the landscape is seen and perceived was able to satisfy their needs, find the
(or it should be seen and perceived) proper solution according to each spe-
as a reflection of the human activities cific site; or how the impressions of the
across time, in a particular and defined visitors and travelers, the consideration
area, and under certain conditions; that those buildings were representing
this concept includes the civilization, for them, have been seen as a funda-
its history and its architectural cul- mental architectural and environmen-
ture as well. Because the landscape is tal heritage. From a critical point of in-
not simply a territory, it is a continu- terest, all the descriptions of this kind
um of overlapping physical vicissitudes should be viewed as a whole. As explic-
and artificial modification occurring it example, the recent works carried on
inside a specific territory, through the by the Çekül Foundation goes in this
course of time. Following the signs of perspective and in particular the map
Sinan can be useful in understanding prepared by them on Sinan’s works in
the importance of urban and rural ar- Thrace (Çekül Vakfı, 2007). Moreover,
eas in Thrace, through the construc- their project called “Sinan’a Saygı” (Re-
tion of complexes, roads, bridges and spect to Sinan), is an important step to
all other the infrastructures connected enlarge the debate on Sinan’s heritage
to them. An urban/rural landscape - and to increase the awareness of it to-
in this analysis - is a combination, or wards a more vast public.
rather a continuous layer of a natural By considering the works of Sinan in
environment together with the devel- Thrace in a larger scale, added as part
opment of human occupation, daily of an Ottoman heritage in a wide re-
life, agriculture, farming, etc. and also gion of Turkey, they can provide some
a peculiar place transformed with the links between several concepts; for
contribution and the ‘artifacts’ de- example, it is possible to point out the
signed by architects and town plan- connections between land, landscape
ners. In this sense, the works of Sinan and ‘cultural heritage’ through other
in Thrace, under the patronage of Su- concepts such as identity and memory.
leiman the Magnificent or Selim the What it can define as a ‘cultural land-
Second, and other important clients scape’ depends on the values, both cul-
like the Gran Vizier Sokollu Mehmet tural and historical, and on the identity
Pasha or Rüstem Pasha, are incredibly that is reflected in the territory itself.
surprising and impressing; they give a These values should be recognized by
clue to understand not only the specif- the local people, the real ‘user’ and ac-
ic architecture of that time, but all the quired by the local municipalities and
development program in these areas administrative authorities in order to
during the middle Sixteenth Century, define this heritage as a benefit for the
in other words, the entire physical-po- collectivity and not only seen as a prof-
litical system - the agenda - in which it opportunity, as well as an important
they were built. asset for themselves and for the main-
In a way, this work is created not to tenance and sustainability of the envi-
interest the study of specific buildings ronment.
or individual works made by Sinan, What is defined as a ‘genius loci’, the
and many scholars did it in an excellent pure spirit of the place, in a particular
way before, but it moves to the effects, site is somehow transformed by the ar-
the sum of these architectural experi- chitects, (in our case Sinan) who first
ences in a wider context. There is not recognizes and interprets the signs
a specific interest for the ‘monuments’, and the traces of the specific territory,

In search of an ‘Ottoman Landscape’: Sinan’s works in Thrace as expression of tangible heritage


66

and consciously utilized all this infor- part of the Balkans. The Ottoman ar-
mation in his projects, turning and chitecture marks indelibly the territo-
changing it, to obtain the result of a ry, the local historical memories, their
new space, architectural or urban, ac- presence and the common matrix of
cording to his intents. Today, all these cultural identity: crossing cities like Sa-
beautiful and magnificent expressions rajevo, Thessalonica, Skopje, or coun-
of architecture can be seen and ana- tries like Albania, Bosnia Herzegovi-
lyzed by collocating them in a sort of na or Kosovo or Macedonia, it is still
‘belonging’ to a cultural landscape. It possible to observe artifacts, along the
can commonly refer to this place, or provincial roads or in the minor urban
space as a ‘milieu’, a site enriched by areas, testifying the Ottoman achieve-
history, culture and other values, dia- ment and preserving the memory and
metrically opposed to the concept of the history of a place.
‘atopy’, where every place is equal to In those lands, characterized by
another, indistinctly, without any spe- increasingly strong multiethnic and
cific characteristic. Of course, the en- components from multiple faiths, the
tire process cannot be ascribed to the traces left by the Ottoman presence in
work of a single man – even if he was almost six hundred years of domina-
a genius in his practice, as Sinan surely tion, in form of towns, infrastructure,
was - but to a system in which the man or architectural structures as mosques
occupies an important role in society, or mescits, public baths, caravanserais,
integrated and under the direction of covered bazaars, bridges and fortifica-
wise patrons and where he has the pos- tions stratified in time, are unequivo-
sibility to make important changes and cally a bond, strong and direct, with
modifications, as the analyzed cases in both the general European history
Thrace have clearly shown. and the important role played by the
Even if it is not an easy subject, what Ottoman and Turkish civilizations in
it is possible to emphasize is that the those border countries, not so disjoint
traces of the past and their presence, or as far away as it is usually tend to
still visible in the present time, should think. Considering Sinan’s examples
consciously pass through conservation summarily presented in the previous
and restoration, not to create ‘new’ but pages - a true testament in stone of a
already ‘dead’ monuments, or to make marvelous age – the hope is that such
out of them urban space as ‘monumen- landscape can inspire and convey new
tal areas’. With awareness of the present energy to the people, stimulating a new
situation and under very limited con- interest in history and common rooted
ditions, the restoration should bring identities.
the architectural works of the past to
life again, integrating and innovat- References
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ITU A|Z • Vol 12 No 2 • July 2015 • L. Orlandi


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ITU A|Z • Vol 12 No 2 • July 2015 • L. Orlandi

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