Professional Documents
Culture Documents
In search of an ‘Ottoman
Landscape’: Sinan’s works in
Thrace as expression of tangible
heritage
Luca ORLANDI
orlandiluca@itu.edu.tr • Department of Architecture, Faculty of Architecture,
Istanbul, Turkey
Abstract
The aim of the paper is to describe the ‘Ottoman Landscape’ designed by ar-
chitect Sinan in the 16th Century, through examples of architectural artifacts like
mosques, staging posts, caravanserais, complexes, bath and bridges inside the
Turkish border of the Thrace region. The land routes connected the capital of the
Ottoman Empire Istanbul to the rest of Europe were important routes crossing the
Western lands under the control of the Ottomans, to reach other countries and
lands. Thanks to descriptions left by many travelers, we can today have an idea of
the cities, the urban spaces, the landscape and the territories of Thrace during the
Ottoman time, in a period covering approximately the last five centuries.
A description of Sinan’s works in the territory of Thrace is given and analyzed,
focusing on interesting aspects related to the choice of the site, the urban planning
approach and the architectural features. Nowadays Sinan’s works are still visible in
the territory and in the minor centers of Thrace, or outside big cities like Istanbul
and Edirne.
Throughout these investigations and studies we can re-construct and re-shape
the enormous heritage left by him as part of an ‘Ottoman Landscape’, not only
considers in terms of specific and unique monuments that need to be protected,
but also as part of a cultural ‘milieu’ that belongs to our contemporary world. This
landscape needs to be revitalized, to preserve the memory of its historical values
and for its future persistence in the territory.
Keywords
Heritage, Landscape, Ottoman Architecture, Sinan, Thrace.
60
This paper will introduce the con- Muslims, Catholics and Orthodox
cept of an ‘Ottoman landscape’ en- Christians. The traces and influenc-
riched by a considerable number of es left by the Turks and the Ottomans
works designed by architect Sinan in almost six hundred years of domi-
through the years during the apogee nation and sovereignty are spread out
of Ottoman Empire in the second half everywhere, still having a remarkable
of the Sixteenth Century. The border- presence in the territory. The prov-
lands between Turkey and Europe, the ince of Rumelia extending from west-
Balkans, being quite rich in terms of ern Turkey to the border of the Aus-
architectural artifacts, still carry the trian and Slovenian territories at the
traces of the Ottoman hegemony in time reached almost Vienna, included
these territories. For this purpose, the countries like Croatia, Hungary, Ro-
paper will consider sections of this ge- mania, Albania, Bosnia-Herzegovina,
ography, located in Thrace, where the Greece, Macedonia, Kosovo and Mon-
works of architect Sinan are a notewor- tenegro. The Turkish word Rumelia (or
thy experience of cultural signals. The Rumeli) can be translated as the Land
building layout, the urban scene and of the Rum, as the Turkish populations
the territorial transformation of those intended the territories belongs once to
lands, seen as a whole, testify a great the Greeks or the Byzantines or more
Ottoman cultural heritage currently generally the Romans and passed lat-
belonging to Turkey and shared with er under their control. This western
its neighbors. As a starting point, this province of the Empire comprise of a
cultural heritage distributed among striking number of Ottoman works of
Turkey and other Eastern European architecture and engineering master-
countries today, can be read as an ap- pieces, precisely illustrating the afore-
proach for a better integration and sub- mentioned ‘Ottoman landscape’, strict-
stantial continuum - hopefully in the ly linked to the Ottoman Civilization.
near future - between the Republic of The works built by Sinan, mosques,
Turkey and the European Union. staging posts, caravanserais, complex-
The research on Sinan’s works and es as the basic example of architectural
the ‘Ottoman landscape’ in Thrace is works as well as the roads, bridges and
based on the PhD dissertation thesis, aqueducts being the main examples
(Orlandi, 2005) which was discussed at of engineering projects define the 16th
the Polytechnic of Turin in May 2005. Century Ottoman landscape through
It was developed inside the PhD pro- small towns and along the caravan
gram undertaken and named: “Histo- routes of Thrace. In this paper it will be
ry and Critic of the Architectural and examined the system routes and tracks
Environmental Heritage”. It can be for the caravans and the station posts
considered as an interdisciplinary field locations, called menzilhane, and the
research inherent to specific areas such bridges or other infrastructures left in
architecture, city planning, landscape the territory related to the great archi-
architecture, restoration, conservation, tect Sinan as well as their current con-
regeneration planning and sustainabil- ditions.
ity. The dissertation thesis investigates The choice of the Thrace region as a
and involves different fields and sub- case-study is also due to the fact that
jects not only related to History of Ar- this area can be regarded as the true
chitecture or Urban History neither it heart of the Ottoman State, centered
should be merely intended as another around two of the three capitals of the
monographic study on Sinan. Part of big empire, the first being Edirne and
this PhD dissertation results was pre- Istanbul the second. So, the choice of 1
The ‘Sinan’ın
sented some years ago to an interna- the region is not solely connected to its kentleri – kentlerde
tional audience, during a symposium 1, relation to the great and unique archi- Sinan imgesi’
(1) and later developed as a publication tecture of Sinan (Figure 1). syposium was
(Orlandi, 2009). The ancient Greeks and Romans organized by
The lands belonging to the Balkan once called the region Thracia or Tra- the Chamber of
the Architects of
Peninsula are marked by the presence cia, which current translation in En- Kayseri, between
of strong multi-ethnical components glish language is Thrace; today portion 6th and 9th of April
and followers of several religions like of it - known as Trakya by the Turkish 2009.
gaz; bridges: Çoban Mustafa Pasha in beside the buildings or complexes that
Svilengrad; Sultan Suleiman in Edirne; are partially in ruins or lost forever, due
Sokollu Mehmet Pasha in Lüleburgaz; to a lack of proper preservation or sim-
Sokollu Mehmet Pasha (or Sinanlı) in ply by negligence, but also it should be
Alpullu; Sokollu Mehmet Pasha (?) in overviewed the literature related to the
Marmaracık (Çorlu); Suleiman Han in visual representations of these lands,
Silivri; Suleiman Han/ Selim the Sec- in order to give a more precise idea of
ond in Büyükçekmece; Odabaşı (?) in what it can be revealed today as an ‘Ot-
Halkalı; Kapıağası (?) in Haramidere. toman landscape’. Throughout investi-
(Figure 6, 7 and 8). gations and studies in these centers as
Of course, there will not only be con- well as in the documents and drawings
sidered the artifacts left in the territory, left by many travelers, it is possible to
re-construct and re-shape the enor-
mous heritage left by Sinan, not only
in terms of specific and unique monu-
ments but also in a wide range. A her-
itage that needs to be preserved and
maintained under protection – where
it is still possible – and to be included
in a cultural ‘milieu’ that belongs to our
contemporary world. It seems even su-
perfluous to argue that this ‘Ottoman
landscape’ should be revitalized for the
memory of its historical values and for
Figure 6. Sinan bridge in Alpullu (Photo@ its future, inside a program of sustain-
Luca Orlandi).
able cultural landscape.
The road scheme visualized in Fig-
ure 9 synthesizes the route network
in the Ottoman times departing from
Istanbul towards the West, showing
the main urban centers and the plac-
es in which Sinan designed his works;
three main branches are visible in this
route system: the left road, (or Sol kol)
connecting to Greece and Italy, the an-
Figure 7. Sokollu Mehmet Pasha bridge in cient Via Egnatia; the Imperial Road,
Lüleburgaz (Photo@Luca Orlandi).
connecting Istanbul and Edirne to the
Balkans and the center of the Europe-
an states and the right road, towards
Crimea, Russia and the Black Sea re-
gions.
Sinan was appointed by Sultan Su-
leiman as Chief of the Imperial Archi-
tects, and during his long life served
other sultans, like Selim the Second
and Murat the Third or other import-
ant dignitaries of the court, like vi-
ziers, sultan’s wives or mothers, princes
and princesses and several others. For
many of them he designed buildings
in these lands, including complexes,
baths, fountains and bridges. In these
maps the sites in which Sinan, un-
der the patronage of those mentioned
rulers, worked, both as architect /
engineer and as responsible in chief
Figure 8. Suleiman Han bridge in for the public works, are showing the
Büyükçekmece (Photo@Luca Orlandi). re-designed territories of Thrace, a new
today, admired or even used, in order the aesthetic appreciation for a complex
to survive. or a single masterpiece, but instead, in-
The ‘Ottoman landscape’ that can sisting in the urban and regional scale,
be described in this context, cannot the interest goes to the impact of those
be thought within the scope of an old buildings and sites designed by Sinan in
fashioned romantic vision any lon- relation to the environment, in a large
ger; a passionate and intense view of sense; therefore it can be taken under
a beautiful nature or a city, a village, consideration the territorial policy of
reminiscent of old postcards. Today Sinan’s patrons and how the architect
the landscape is seen and perceived was able to satisfy their needs, find the
(or it should be seen and perceived) proper solution according to each spe-
as a reflection of the human activities cific site; or how the impressions of the
across time, in a particular and defined visitors and travelers, the consideration
area, and under certain conditions; that those buildings were representing
this concept includes the civilization, for them, have been seen as a funda-
its history and its architectural cul- mental architectural and environmen-
ture as well. Because the landscape is tal heritage. From a critical point of in-
not simply a territory, it is a continu- terest, all the descriptions of this kind
um of overlapping physical vicissitudes should be viewed as a whole. As explic-
and artificial modification occurring it example, the recent works carried on
inside a specific territory, through the by the Çekül Foundation goes in this
course of time. Following the signs of perspective and in particular the map
Sinan can be useful in understanding prepared by them on Sinan’s works in
the importance of urban and rural ar- Thrace (Çekül Vakfı, 2007). Moreover,
eas in Thrace, through the construc- their project called “Sinan’a Saygı” (Re-
tion of complexes, roads, bridges and spect to Sinan), is an important step to
all other the infrastructures connected enlarge the debate on Sinan’s heritage
to them. An urban/rural landscape - and to increase the awareness of it to-
in this analysis - is a combination, or wards a more vast public.
rather a continuous layer of a natural By considering the works of Sinan in
environment together with the devel- Thrace in a larger scale, added as part
opment of human occupation, daily of an Ottoman heritage in a wide re-
life, agriculture, farming, etc. and also gion of Turkey, they can provide some
a peculiar place transformed with the links between several concepts; for
contribution and the ‘artifacts’ de- example, it is possible to point out the
signed by architects and town plan- connections between land, landscape
ners. In this sense, the works of Sinan and ‘cultural heritage’ through other
in Thrace, under the patronage of Su- concepts such as identity and memory.
leiman the Magnificent or Selim the What it can define as a ‘cultural land-
Second, and other important clients scape’ depends on the values, both cul-
like the Gran Vizier Sokollu Mehmet tural and historical, and on the identity
Pasha or Rüstem Pasha, are incredibly that is reflected in the territory itself.
surprising and impressing; they give a These values should be recognized by
clue to understand not only the specif- the local people, the real ‘user’ and ac-
ic architecture of that time, but all the quired by the local municipalities and
development program in these areas administrative authorities in order to
during the middle Sixteenth Century, define this heritage as a benefit for the
in other words, the entire physical-po- collectivity and not only seen as a prof-
litical system - the agenda - in which it opportunity, as well as an important
they were built. asset for themselves and for the main-
In a way, this work is created not to tenance and sustainability of the envi-
interest the study of specific buildings ronment.
or individual works made by Sinan, What is defined as a ‘genius loci’, the
and many scholars did it in an excellent pure spirit of the place, in a particular
way before, but it moves to the effects, site is somehow transformed by the ar-
the sum of these architectural experi- chitects, (in our case Sinan) who first
ences in a wider context. There is not recognizes and interprets the signs
a specific interest for the ‘monuments’, and the traces of the specific territory,
and consciously utilized all this infor- part of the Balkans. The Ottoman ar-
mation in his projects, turning and chitecture marks indelibly the territo-
changing it, to obtain the result of a ry, the local historical memories, their
new space, architectural or urban, ac- presence and the common matrix of
cording to his intents. Today, all these cultural identity: crossing cities like Sa-
beautiful and magnificent expressions rajevo, Thessalonica, Skopje, or coun-
of architecture can be seen and ana- tries like Albania, Bosnia Herzegovi-
lyzed by collocating them in a sort of na or Kosovo or Macedonia, it is still
‘belonging’ to a cultural landscape. It possible to observe artifacts, along the
can commonly refer to this place, or provincial roads or in the minor urban
space as a ‘milieu’, a site enriched by areas, testifying the Ottoman achieve-
history, culture and other values, dia- ment and preserving the memory and
metrically opposed to the concept of the history of a place.
‘atopy’, where every place is equal to In those lands, characterized by
another, indistinctly, without any spe- increasingly strong multiethnic and
cific characteristic. Of course, the en- components from multiple faiths, the
tire process cannot be ascribed to the traces left by the Ottoman presence in
work of a single man – even if he was almost six hundred years of domina-
a genius in his practice, as Sinan surely tion, in form of towns, infrastructure,
was - but to a system in which the man or architectural structures as mosques
occupies an important role in society, or mescits, public baths, caravanserais,
integrated and under the direction of covered bazaars, bridges and fortifica-
wise patrons and where he has the pos- tions stratified in time, are unequivo-
sibility to make important changes and cally a bond, strong and direct, with
modifications, as the analyzed cases in both the general European history
Thrace have clearly shown. and the important role played by the
Even if it is not an easy subject, what Ottoman and Turkish civilizations in
it is possible to emphasize is that the those border countries, not so disjoint
traces of the past and their presence, or as far away as it is usually tend to
still visible in the present time, should think. Considering Sinan’s examples
consciously pass through conservation summarily presented in the previous
and restoration, not to create ‘new’ but pages - a true testament in stone of a
already ‘dead’ monuments, or to make marvelous age – the hope is that such
out of them urban space as ‘monumen- landscape can inspire and convey new
tal areas’. With awareness of the present energy to the people, stimulating a new
situation and under very limited con- interest in history and common rooted
ditions, the restoration should bring identities.
the architectural works of the past to
life again, integrating and innovat- References
ing them in the contemporary society Bayram, S. (ed.), (1988). Mimarbası
and in a more sophisticated concept Koca Sinan. Yaşadığı çağ ve eserleri,
of cultural heritage. In brief, many of [Head Architect Great Sinan, His Age
the ideas presented here related to a and His Works] I-II, T.C. Başbakanlık
definition of what can be considered Vakıflar Genel Müdürlüğü, Istanbul.
worth in terms of ‘Ottoman landscape’, Beldiceanu, N. (1980). Le timar dans
should not concretized only in a sort l’État ottoman (début XIVe – début XVIe
of open air museum on Sinan’s works siècle), Otto Harrassowitz,Wiesbaden.
in Thrace, even if desirable, but should Bombaci, A., Shaw, S. J. (1981). L’im-
instead drive an awareness on the real pero ottomano, in Storia universale dei
wealth given by a heritage so extensive popoli e della civiltà, VI/2, UTET, To-
and unique, as the one we can find in rino.
that region. Bozkurt, O. (1952). Koca Sinan’ın
With this specific intention, Sinan’s köprüleri: XVI. asır Osmankı medeni-
architectural experience in Thrace can yeti içinde Sinan, köprülerin mimari
be helpful for the understanding of a bakımdan tetkiki, siluet ve abide
large portion of Ottoman belongings kıymetleri, [Bridges of Sinan the Great:
disseminated in a very extensive region Sinan within 16th century Ottoman
that can include all countries that are civilization, architectural evaluation,
silhouette and monumental impor- and the Balkans under the Ottoman
tance of bridges] ITU, Architecture Empire. Essays on Economy and Society,
Faculty, Istanbul. Indiana University Turkish Studies/
Burelli, A. R. (1989). La Moschea di Turkish Ministry of Culture, Bloom-
Sinan, Cluva Editrice, Venezia. ington U.S.A.
Cerasi, M. (1988). La Città del Le- İnalcik, H. (1997a). An Economic
vante. Civiltà urbana e architettura and Social History of the Ottoman Em-
sotto gli Ottomani nei secoli XVIII-XIX, pire. I, 1300-1600, Cambridge Univer-
Jaca Book, Milano. sity Press, Cambridge.
Cezar, M. (1983). Typical Commer- İnalcik, H. (1997b). The Ottoman
cial Building of the Ottoman Classical Empire. The Classical Age 1300-1600,
Period and the Ottoman Construction Phoenix, London.
System, Türkiye İş Bankası Cultural Jireček, C. J. (1877). Die Heerstrasse
Publications, Istanbul. von Belgrad nach Konstantinopel und
Çulpan, C. (1975). Türk Taş die Balkanpässe, Tempst, Prague.
Köprüleri, [Turkish Stone Bridges] An- Klusáková, L. (2002). The Road to
kara. Constantinople. Sixteenth-Century Ot-
Egli, E. (1954). Sinan der Baumeister toman Towns through Christian Eyes,
Osmanischer Glanzzeit, Verlag für Ar- ISV, Prague.
kitektur A. G., Erlenbach, Zürich. Kuban, D. (1997). Sinan’s Art and Se-
Egli, H. (1997). Sinan, an Interpreta- limiye, The Economic and Social His-
tion, Ege, Istanbul. tory Foundation, Istanbul.
Eldem, E., Goffman, D., Masters, Küçükkaya, G. (1990). Mimar Sinan
B. (1999). The Ottoman City between Dönemi İstanbul-Belgrad arası menzil
East and West. Aleppo, Izmir and Istan- yapıları hakkında bir deneme, [Eval-
bul, Cambridge University Press, New uation on Architect Sinan Era menzil
York-Cambridge. buildings between Istanbul and Bel-
Goodwin, G. (1992). Sinan: Otto- grade] in Vakıflar Dergisi, XXI, 183-
man Architecture and its Value Today, 254.
Saqi Books, London. Kuran, A. (1986). Mimar Sinan, [Ar-
Günay, R. (1998). Sinan - The Archi- chitect Sinan] Hürriyet Vakfı Yayınları,
tect and his Works, YEM, Istanbul. Istanbul.
Heywood, C. J. (1976-1977). Some Mandel, G. (1988). I Caravanserragli
Turkish archival sources for the history turchi, Lucchetti, Bergamo.
of the Menzilhane network in Rumeli Mantran, R. (ed.), (1999). Storia
during the Eighteenth Century. (Notes dell’Impero Ottomano, Ed. Argo, Lecce.
and documents on the Ottoman Ulak, Çekül Vakfı, (2007). Mimar Sinan
I), in Boğaziçi Üniversitesi Dergisi. Eserleri I – II, [Archtitect Sinan Works
Beşeri Bilimler - Humanities, 4-5, Is- I-II] Trakya Gezi Haritası, Çekül Vakfı,
tanbul, 39-55. Istanbul.
Heywood, C. J. (1980). The Ottoman Necipoğlu, G. (2005). The Age of
Menzilhane and Ulak System in Rume- Sinan. Architectural Culture in the Ot-
li in the Eighteenth Century, in Türki- toman Empire, Reaktion Books, Lon-
ye’nin Sosyal ve Economik Tarihi (1071- don.
1920) / Social and Economic History of Orlandi, L. (2005). The Urban and
Turkey (1071-1920). Paper presented Territorial Conception of Architect
to the “First International Congress Sinan during the Development of the
of the Social and Economic History of Classical Ottoman Architecture in the
Turkey. Hacettepe University, Ankara 16th Century (Case-Study: Ottoman
July 11-13, 1977, Ankara, Meteksan, Thrace), PhD dissertation, Politecnico
179-186. di Torino, Scuola di Dottorato (in Ital-
Imber, C. (2002). The Ottoman Em- ian language).
pire 1300-1650, Palgrave Macmillan, Orlandi, L. (2009). Trakya peyzajın-
New York. da Sinan’ın izlerini takıp etmek, [Fol-
İnalcik, H., Renda, G., (eds.), (2002). lowing Traces of Sinan in Trachian
Ottoman Civilization, I-II, Ministry of Landscape]. In Sinan Simgesi, Burak
Culture, Ankara. Asiliskender (ed.), M.O. Kayseri Subesi
İnalcik, H. (1993). The Middle East Yayınları, Kayseri, 89-102.