DJJ1043

WORKSHOP TECHNOLOGY

CHAPTER 1
HAND TOOLS

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 THE BASIC RULES
1. Never work alone
- At least two adults must be in the workshop
when power tools are being used.
2. Never work when you are impaired.
- This includes when you are too tired, stressed
or hurried to work carefully.
3. If you cannot do a job safety in this workshop,
don’t do it.
- There are limits to what we can build here.

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4. Always wear closed-toe shoes in the
workshop.
- tools, chips and fixtures are sharp and often
hot. Shoes will help protect your feet from
injury. Leather shoes are preferred when
welding.
5. Eye protection is essential. Always wear safety
glasses when working or cleaning tools.
- Prescription glasses sold with plastic lenses
meet ANSI Standard Z87.1 for safety.

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6. Remove or secure anything that might get
caught in moving machinery.
- rings, necklaces, long hair and loose clothes
that get caught in tools can drag you along.
7. Keep your hands away from sharp tools.
- Make sure that nothing that you do will cause
you to be cut.
8. Dust, chemicals and smoke can be dangerous
work in well ventilated areas, minimize
contamination and us appropriate protective
equipment.
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- The safety equipment cabinet is on the patio.
9. Clean up after yourself.
- Before you leave the workshop each day all
tools must be returned to the toolbox, the
machine cleaned and wiped down and the floor
swept. Leave 10-15 minutes for cleanup.

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HAND TOOLS
1. SCRIBER

- Used in metalworking to mark lines on work

pieces.
- They are used by drawing the point over the
surface of the work piece to leave a shallow
scratch on its surface

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2. CENTRE PUNCH

- Used to position a dill for drilling.

- Has sides a 90° angle to one another

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3. PRICK PUNCH

- A prick punch is primarily used for the

purposes of layout.
- The same general shape as the Centre punch
and usually with a ground point angle of 60°.

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4. DIVIDER

- Used for scribing circle and curves.

- Also use for stepping of distances.

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5. SURFACE PLATE

- Used for accurate marking lay out, checking of

surfaces for flat and checking parts for
alignment height.

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6. VEE BLOCK

- The v-block and clamp set is used to hold and

drill round stock.

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7. L SQUARE

- The square refers to the tools primary use of

measuring the accuracy of a right angle 90°.
- To try a surface is to check its straightness or
correspondence to an adjoining surface.

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8. STEEL RULER

- Used to take measure, check surface level and

help scratch straight line.

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9. COMBINATION SET SQUARE

- A combination square is a tool used for

multiple purposes in metalworking.
- The square refers to the primary use of the tool
:measuring the accuracy of a right angle 90°.
- A combination square consisting of the ruler,
45° holder, protractor and center square.

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10. SURFACE HEIGHT GAUGE / SCRIBER BLOCK

- A scriber block is used to layout lines at a set

height from the base.
- Thus its second name surface height gauge or
just “surface gauge”.

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11. HACK SAW

- A hack saw is a fine-tooth saw with a blade

under tension in a frame.
- Used for cutting materials such as metal or
bone. Some have pistol grips which keep the
hacksaw firm and easy to grip.
- Large, power hacksaw are sometimes used to
replace a band saw in machine shops.

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HACK SAW BLADE

PRECAUTIONS / IN USE OF A HACK SAW

1. Choose a blade of the right type.
2. Correctly tension blade.
3. Ensure that the work is secured rigidly.
4. Do not twist blade and exert too mush
pressure, a this will break the blade
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12. FILE

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- A file is a metalworking tool used to cut fine a
mounts of material from a work piece.
- Hand files are used in the workshop to
smooth rough edges.

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PROCEDURE TO FILING

Purpose of Filing
1. Smooth Strokes 3. Oblique Strokes
2. Hard Strokes 4. Pull Stroke

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PINNING
- Pinning refers to the clogging of the file teeth
with pins, which are material shavings.
- These pins cause the file to lose its cutting
ability and can scratch the work piece.

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SAFETY PROCEDURES OF FILING
1. Don’t wipe off chips with bare hands.
2. Use files with crackles file handles only.
3. Bore and enlarge new file handle according
to the tang and then fix them by gentle
hammer blows.
4. Hardened parts roust not be filed.
5. Don’t stack files one above the other, protect
them from falling down.
6. Clean files regularly with file brush and latten
brass.

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FILES ARE SELECTED DEPENDING ON :-
1. The shape of the face or edge to be filed.
2. The hardness of the material to be filed.
3. The size of the face to be filed.
4. The amount of filing and the surface finish,

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 STANDING POSITION AND GUIDING OF THE FILE
- Before beginning to file make sure that the
vise has the correct height and the work piece
is firmly clamped.

PROCEDURE
1. The weight of the body is resting on one leg,
the other leg is always straightened, both feet
have to be firmly on the ground.

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2. The file is moved with the arms only, not with
the upper part of the body, the upper part of
the body must not swing.
3. The file is pressed onto the work piece when
pushing the file forward only, it is pulled back
without pressure.
4. The file is to be guided so that the movement
is always horizontal.

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13. HAMMER

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- A hammer is a tool meant to deliver an impact
to an object.
- The most common uses are for driving nails,
fitting parts, forging metal and breaking up
objects.
- Hammers are often designed for a specific
purpose and vary widely in their shape and
structure.
- The usual features are a handle and a head,
with most of the weight in the head.

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PARTS OF BALL PEEN HAMMER

TYPES OF HAMMER
1. Ball Peen
- Normally used in machine workshop, the peen
in this case is rounded and is usually used for
shaping metal and closing rivets.

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2. Cross and Straight Peen
- Used for shaping metal, the peen can be at
right angles to the handle or parallel with it.
- The most useful domestically is the cross
peen, where the peen can be used for starting
panel pins and tacks.
- Handles are normally wood.

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3. Claw Hammer
- The most popular hammer foe general work,
available with a wooden glass-fibre or steel
handle.

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14. CHISEL

- This is used for metal cutting and chipping.

- It is made of carbon steel.
- Its shank is rectangular, hexagonal or
octagonal in cross section.
- The length of a flat chisel varies from 100 mm
to 400 mm and the width of the cutting edge
varies from 16 mm too 32 mm.
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COLD CHISEL
- A cold chisel is a tool made of tempered steel
used for cutting ‘cold’ metals, meaning that
they are not used in conjunction with heating
torches.
- Cold chisels are used to remove waste metal
when a very smooth finish is not required or
when the work cannot be done with other
tools, such as a hacksaw, file, bench shears or
power tools.

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HOT CHISEL
- A hot chisel is used to cut metal that has been
heated in a forge to soften the metal.
- One type of hot chisel is the “hardy chisel”,
which is used in an anvil hardy hole with the
cutting edge oriented up.
- The hammer drives the work piece into the
chisel, which allows it to be snapped off with a
pair of tongs.

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MUSHROM HEAD CHISEL
- When the head of the chisel has been stuck
and beaten so that the edge of the head has
rolled out and flattened.

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15. TAP AND DIES
- Tapping is the operation of cutting an internal
thread by means of a cutting tool known as a
tap.
- When tapping by hand, straight-flute hand
taps are used.
- These are made from hardened high-speed
steel and are supplied in sets of three.
- The three taps differ in the length of chamfer
at the point, known as the lead.

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- The one with the longest lead is referred to as
the taper or first tap, the next as the second
or intermediate tap and the third, which has a
very short lead, as the bottoming or plug tap.

Set of taps Tap wrenches

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- Dies are used to cut external threads and are
available in sizes up to approximately 36 mm
thread diameter.
- The common type, for use by hand, is the
circular split die, made from high-speed steel
hardened and tempered and split at one side
to enable small adjustments of size to be
made.

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 Circular split die Die holder

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 VERNIER CALIPERS
-Vernier calipers are precision tools used
to make accurate measurements to within
0.001 in or 0.02 mm, depending on
whether they are inch or metric vernier
calipers.

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 VERNIER CALIPERS
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 PARTS OF A VERNIER CALIPER
1. Outside jaws: used to measure
external diameter or width of an object
2. Inside jaws: used to measure internal
diameter of an object
3. Depth probe: used to measure depths
an object or a hole
4. Main scale: gives measurements of up
to one decimal place(in cm).
5. Main scale: gives measurements in
fraction(in inch)

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6. Vernier gives measurements up to two
decimal places(in cm)
7. Vernier gives measurements in
fraction(in inch)
8. Retainer: used to block movable part to
allow the easy transferring a
measurement

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 HOW TO USE A VERNIER
CALIPER
- Preparation to take the measurement,
loosen the locking screw and move the
slider to check if the vernier scale works
properly.
- Before measuring, do make sure the
caliper reads 0 when fully closed.
- If the reading is not 0, adjust the caliper’s
jaws until you get a 0 reading.

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- Clean the measuring surfaces of both
vernier caliper and the object, then you
can take the measurement.
- Close the jaws lightly on the item which
you want to measure.
- If you are measuring something round, be
sure the axis of the part is perpendicular to
the caliper.
- Namely, make sure you are measuring the
full diameter.

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- An ordinary caliper has jaws you can place
around an object, and on the other side
jaws made to fit inside an object.
- These secondary jaws are for measuring
the inside diameter of an object.
- Also, a stiff bar extends from the caliper as
you open it that can be used to measure
depth.

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 HOW TO READ A VERNIER
CALIPER
1) Read the centimeter mark on the fixed
scale to the left of the 0-mark on the
vernier scale. (10mm on the fixed caliper)

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2) Find the millimeter mark on the fixed scale
that is just to the left of the 0-mark on the
vernier scale. (6mm on the fixed caliper)

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3) Look along the ten marks on the vernier
scale and the millimeter marks on the
adjacent fixed scale, until you find the two
that most nearly line up. (0.25mm on the
vernier scale)

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4) To get the correct reading, simply add this
found digit to your previous reading.
(10mm + 6mm + 0.25mm= 16.25 mm)

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 REVIEW QUESTIONS
Read the following metric caliper setting :-

a)

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b)

c)

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d)

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 TYPES OF VERNIER CALIPER
1. DIGITAL CALIPER

- A refinement now popular is the

replacement of the analog dial with an
electronic digital display on which the
reading is displayed.

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- All provide for zeroing the display at any
point along the slide, allowing the same
sort of differential measurements as with
the dial caliper but without the need to
read numbers that may be upside down.
- Digital calipers typically do not have the
beam structure of a dial or vernier caliper
and therefore do not have the repeatability
or accuracy to an amateur user.

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2. VERNIER HEIGHT GAUGE

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- A vernier height gauge is a height gauge
with the additional refinement of a vernier
scale for greater accuracy in reading or
setting the tool.
- These measuring tools are used in
metalworking or metrology to either set or
measure vertical distances; the pointer is
sharpened to allow it to act as a scriber
and assist in marking out work pieces.

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3. VERNIER DEPTH GAGES

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- These measuring tools are designed to
measure the depth of holes,
recesses,step, and slots.
- Basic part of a vernier depth gage include
the base or anvil with the vernier scale and
the fine adjustment screw.
- Also shown is the graduated beam or bar
that contains the true scale.
- To make accurate measurements the
reference surface must be flat and free
from nicks and burrs.
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- The base should be held firmly against
the reference surface while the beam is
brought in contact with the surface being
measured.
- The measuring pressure should
approximately equal the pressure axerted
when making a light dot on a piece of
paper with a pencil.
- On the vernier depth gage ,dimensions are
read in the same manner as on a vernier
caliper.
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 MICROMETER

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- A micrometer, sometimes known as a
micrometer screw gauge, is a device used
widely in mechanical engineering and
machining for precisely measuring, along with
other metrological instruments such as dial
calipers and vernier calipers.

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PARTS OF MICROMETER

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1. Frame
- The C-shaped body that holds the anvil
and barrel in constant relation to each
other. It is thick because it needs to
minimize flexion, expansion, and
contraction, which would distort the
measurement.
- The frame is heavy and consequently has
a high thermal mass, to prevent
substantial heating up by the holding
hand/fingers.

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2. Anvil
- The shiny part that the spindle moves
toward, and that the sample rests against.
3. Sleeve / barrel / stock
- The stationary round part with the linear
scale on it. Sometimes vernier markings.
4. Lock nut / lock-ring / thimble lock
- The knurled part (or lever) that one can
tighten to hold the spindle stationary, such
as when momentarily holding a
measurement.
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5. Screw
- (not seen) The heart of the micrometer, as
explained under "Operating principles". It
is inside the barrel. (No wonder that the
usual name for the device in German is
Messschraube, literally "measuring
screw".)
6. Spindle
- The shiny cylindrical part that the thimble
causes to move toward the anvil.

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7. Thimble
- The part that one's thumb turns.
Graduated markings.
8. Ratchet stop
- (not shown in illustration) Device on end of
handle that limits applied pressure by
slipping at a calibrated torque.

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 READING MICROMETER INCH
SYSTEM
- The spindle of an inch-system micrometer
has 40 threads per inch, so that one turn
moves the spindle axially 0.025 inch (1 ÷ 40
= 0.025), equal to the distance between two
graduations on the frame.
- The 25 graduations on the thimble allow the
0.025 inch to be further divided, so that
turning the thimble through one division
moves the spindle axially 0.001 inch (0.025 ÷
25 = 0.001).

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1. Note the last number showing on the
sleeve. Multiply that number by 0.100.
2. Note the number of small lines visible to
the right of the last number shown.
Multiply that number by 0.025.
3. Note the number of divisions on the
thimble from zero to the line that
coincides with the index line on the
sleeve. Multiply that number by 0.001.

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- #2 is shown on the sleeve 2×0.100=0.200
- Three lines are visible past 3×0.025=0.75
the number
- #13 line on thimble 13×0.001=0.013
coincides with the index line
- Total reading =0.288 in
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READING MICROMETER METRIC
SYSTEM
- The spindle of an ordinary metric
micrometer has 2 threads per millimetre,
and thus one complete revolution moves
the spindle through a distance of 0.5
millimetre.
- The longitudinal line on the frame is
graduated with 1 millimetre divisions and
0.5 millimetre subdivisions.
- The thimble has 50 graduations, each
being 0.01 millimetre (one-hundredth of a
millimetre).
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1. Note the number of the last main division
showing above the line to the left of the
thimble.multiply that number by 1 mm.
2. If there is a half-milimeter line showing
below the index line, between the whole
milimeter and the thimble, then add 0.5
mm.
3. Multiply the number of the line on the
thimble that coincides with the index line
times 0.01.
4. Add these products.
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17 lines above the index line 17×1=17
1 line below the index line 1×0.5=0.5
11 lines on the thimble 11×0.11=0.11
Total reading =17.61 mm

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 REVIEW QUESTIONS
1) Read the following standard micrometer
setting.

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2)Read the following metric micrometer
settings.

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