Discus: The whole truth and nothing but...

It's high time the facts were separated from the fiction, about Discus. Mark Evenden dispels some long-held
myths about these iconic South American favourites.

Beliefs passed through the hobby may not be necessary, beneficial or even accurate -
as you'll discover:

It's said they need RO water

All Discus will live in water prepared by a reverse osmosis filter - but do they all need
it?

Much will depend on the water your fish have spent their lives in prior to reaching
your tank.

Wild Discus will require soft, slightly acidic water and generally the only way to
achieve this is to use a reverse osmosis filter. Some areas of the UK have soft water
on tap, but, even then, it would be wise to run it through carbon.

Asian Discus are also raised in soft water, so will appreciate the same water
preparation for wild Discus. Some aquarists acclimatise their Asian Discus to UK
tapwater, but top breeders such as Jeffrey Tan advise soft water.

European-bred Discus, however, are quite happy and will even breed in harder water
- the reason being they have now been tank-bred over several generations and have
adapted to it.

Your best course of action is to seek the advice of your chosen Discus supplier, but an
increasing number of keepers are considering an RO filter a product very much of the
past.

You shouldn't mix fish from different suppliers/countries

In my opinion the answer is no, but if that didn't happen the hobby would grind to a
halt.

Keeping Discus successfully is made easier by eliminating the known risks and there's
conclusive evidence that sometimes, when two batches of fish from different sources
are put in the same tank, it can have devastating results - with one set becoming very
sick in just a few days.

I need to stress that this is not an Asian/German 'thing', as it's often referred to in the
hobby. It can involve two batches of fish that have simply been purchased from
different shops.
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So how do we avoid it? Don't do it! However, if you want fish from different places
then there's a simple procedure to follow.

Usually people will have a happy tank, go out, buy some new Discus, pop them in the
tank and 48 hours later notice a problem. So keep your fish in separate tanks while
the newcomers undergo a period of quarantine.

During this time avoid transferring even a single drop of water from one tank to the
other.

After a few weeks take a new fish and an existing fish and put them in a tank
together. If after ten days they are fine you can reasonably assume that all is well.

If the fish are going to 'cross contaminate' it will show itself within a 48 to 72 hour
period. This is generally referred to as 'Discus plague' and can be treated,  although
not always successfully, using salt dips/formalin and malachite green/acraflavin.

Yet is the risk worth the worry? Only the individual fishkeeper can decide, My advice,
however, is to avoid known risks.

Discus must have a red eye to be considered a worthy specimen

In the main, wild Discus do have bright red eyes, so some fishkeepers consider a red
eye a must characteristic.

However, most Discus available today are domestically-bred mutations and the eye
can be yellow/red/albino and so on.

Regardless of the colour, always pick fish that have an eye proportional to body size.
It should also look clean and bright, as the eye is a good indicator of the fish's state
of health and age.

Males have longer ventral fins than females

Sometimes but not always. Discus fins are like fingernails, continually growing and
'dropping off'  - not literally, but the fish is able to replace the soft areas of its fins.

I believe the size and shape of the fins is directly linked to fish genetics, the quality of
the diet and water provided for it.

Males, when breeding, do often have longer ventral and dorsal fins than females, but
I believe this characteristic is more an indication that the fish is in good condition
than anything else.

They must have a very low pH to survive

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Discus will survive in a broad range of pH values and again the origin of the fish will
need to be taken into consideration, but it is indeed a myth that the pH in the wild is
constantly very low.

During the rainy season the water in rivers and lakes will have a near neutral pH.

Far more important for domestic Discus is a consistent pH - and nearer to neutral the
better.Constant adjustment of pH in water is poor husbandry and will inevitably lead
to health issues.

Don't feed them beefheart because it's not natural

Nonsense. Most of the world's Discus breeders feed a beefheart mix and, in some
cases, have done so for more than 50 years.

Feed your Discus what you see fit and offer a varied diet, as feeding is part of the fun
of keeping fish! People often say "I wouldn't want to eat the same food every day" —
but we eat to survive and for pleasure. Animals just eat to survive.

Feeding Discus is a subject on which every keeper will have an opinion, usually
different!

Discus will only accept red foods

No. Discus will also happily accept brineshrimp, mussel, whiteworm and so on.

Fish use more than just their sight to locate food, but there's a school of thought that,
because of their colour, red foods are much easier to see. A well-known brand of
granulated food was initially produced blue, but trials indicated that a red version was
eaten first, so red was promoted!

Healthy, happy Discus will eat a variety of food, the important factor being to feed
them regularly and in sufficient quantity.

They need to be given bare bottomed tanks

Discus don't, but they are messy and people who keep them in such tanks usually do
so for their own reasons.

It's easier to remove the waste, wipe down the sides and generally keep bacteria and
pathogens minimal, but in a domestic setting people will often want a decorated tank
with substrate and aesthetically that's quite understandable.

Maintain it properly and all will be fine. The most important regime is to remove
uneaten food.

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They won't breed because they were taken away from their parents and no longer
have the parental instinct

This is a very hot and complex subject, but extensive tests would appear to disprove
this 'myth.'

They can be sexed just by looking at them

Even adult Discus are hard to sex just looking at them. Getting it right all of the time
is impossible. Watch their interaction and it becomes easier.

Spend some time looking at the 'tubes'. Males' are pointed, females' shorter and
blunt.

One thing's for sure though. If a pair forms in a tank it is blatantly obvious, as they
will shove the rest of the fish up the other end!

Sexing Discus under 14cm/5.5" is all but impossible.

They can't ever be sexed just by looking at them

As you gain experience you get an instinct as to each fish's sex, but getting it right is
difficult and at some point they will humble you.

You shouldn't buy small ones

It's not a good idea to buy small Discus in groups of less than eight to ten — the
reason being that Discus are shoalers and get their security from being part of a
shoal. Would-be buyers often say they will take 'a couple to try them' but this really is
the wrong way to keep Discus.

They shouldn't be mixed with angelfish

Discus don't live with angels in the wild, but many enthusiasts keep them together in
domestic aquaria.

As with any fish, there's a risk of cross-contamination and with both being territorial
and, in the case of the angels being predatory, there's a potential problem. My
doctrine is, as ever, to avoid known risks.

These fish are very difficult to keep...

You can make Discus keeping as hard as you like! People do, but those who enjoy the
best success and relish in the hobby will in the main keep things very simple.

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Domestically-bred Discus are really no different to any other fish and these are the
very basic rules:

 Keep them in groups, as they are a shoaling species.

 Provide them with chemically clean water.
 Undertake weekly water changes of a minimum 25%.
 Install a fully mature biological filter.
 Maintain a consistent pH and hardness, as advised by the supplier.
 Initially buy good healthy stock. Look around and don't buy on impulse.
 Feed them well, Discus will eat a lot.
 Keep your hands out of the tank! Don't take that literally, but don't go looking
for non-existent issues.
 Join the PFK forum and a dedicated Discus forum, and establish a relationship
with your supplier.

Making the right preparations

There are many opinions and different methodologies seem to work for different
Discus keepers.

With better fish quality now available, water preparation filters being more affordable
and with knowledge gained and shared in PFK and on the Internet, it's possible for
anyone to keep Discus.

No more mystery and secrecy — just follow these tips:

Tank size: Bigger is better, as more water makes it easier to maintain quality. If you
buy smaller Discus the more water you will have and the better they will grow.

I think a 120 l/26 gal tank is minimum and, with prudent husbandry, one fish per 20
litres of water is fine.

Water parameters: These will depend on the source of your Discus, so discuss the
finer points with your supplier. However, the common denominator for any Discus is
to provide chemically clean water — and plenty of it.

Discus like it a bit warmer than bread and butter tropical fish and 28-30°C/82-86°F is
fine. Discus will not tolerate ammonia or nitrite for very long. They are more tolerant
of nitrates, but keeping this as low as you can with water changes is extremely
benefical.

Size to buy: This will again depend on several factors, not least your budget! With
most Discus being mutations/hybridised, the bigger they are the more sure you can
be of what the fish will ultimately look like.

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What you see is what you get with fish 10cm/4" and larger. When buying smaller look
more for good shape and activity. Buy those constantly looking for food and allow
them to develop into what they are.

Avoid shy fish and always ask to see the fish feeding before buying. Take home a
group, unless adding to a collection or buying a breeding pair.

Filtration: A mature sponge filter will do the job, but an undertank sump or canister
filter will be more efficient at removing solids.

Water preparation: The water needs to be chemically clean and free of chlorine,

chloramines or heavy metals. Reverse osmosis or HMA filters are the most
economical way long term. Over-the-counter additives remove and bind these
factors, but use a carbon-based filter for best results.

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What do I need for Discus?
If you want to get started with Discus, here are some of the things you'll need on your shopping list.

Tank

Discus reach 15cm/6” and need a 60cm/24” tall tank. They do well in groups of five or more. Go for a tank of
120 x 60 x 45cm/48 x 24 x 18” or bigger.  You’ll benefit from adding additional filtration. Expect to pay £600
for the basic kit.

Water

Unless you have soft water, you’ll need RO. These units are now so cheap that it makes more sense to buy
one, rather than buying water from the shop. Remineralise the soft water with electrolytes before using.

Expect to pay less than £100 for a three-stage RO unit.

Water testing

Ammonia, nitrite, pH and nitrate are essential test kits. A pH meter would be handy, as would a Total
Dissolved Solids (TDS) meter for checking RO mixes.Expect to pay around £25-30 for the four test kits, £50
for a pH meter and £30 for a TDS meter.

Feeding

Feed a combination of dry, staple Discus foods like granules and frozen foods like bloodworm. Frozen foods
can be enriched with vitamin sprays.

Expect to pay £10 for Discus granules and from £2 per pack for frozen foods.

Fish

Buy five or more of the same size and from the same supplier. Match your water parameters and
temperature to those of the dealers for seamless transition. Keep on their own or with small, peaceful
softwater fish.

Expect to pay from £10-50 or more, depending on size and quality.

This item was first published in the September 2009 issue of Practical Fishkeeping magazine. It may
not be reproduced without written permission.

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Definitive guide to Discus: part one
Discus secrets revealed as Heiko Bleher identifies the three species of this favourite from the Amazon,
describes their habitats and reveals how to tell them apart.

There are now three recognised species of Discus and they were collectively noted for the first time by Géry
and Bleher in 2004, by Bleher in 2006 and than again in the scientific journal aqua, International Journal of
Ichthyology Volume 12(4) by Bleher, Stölting, Salzburger and Meyer, 2007.

Other more recent scientific papers have also concluded that there are three species, according to molecular
research.

They are Symphysodon discus, Heckel, 1840 (Heckel Discus); S. aequifasciatus, Pellgrin, 1904 (Green Discus)
and S. haraldi  (Brown or Blue Discus). Their scientifically valid classification can also be seen at the online
source of taxonomy of fishes at the California Academy of Science website by William Eschmeyer.

Every other name still found in some popular and scientific publications, in some on-line forums and on
sites is a synonym or nomen nudum — meaning a ‘naked’ name not yet published with adequate
description.

The common names could be argued over, but we have retained them because they were established by
Harald Schultz (1959) and Leonard Schultz (1960), although the colour names do not often reflect the actual
colours of the species.

John Randall, one of the most famous living ichthyologists once said to me: “We have to give it a name…”
and, as they have been established for some time, we have to get used to the fact that a Brown Discus and a
Blue Discus are both one and the same species. They are found throughout their distribution together in
many different colour patterns.

Their common names should begin in capital letters – a form adopted in Australia — and I think Europeans
should do the same.

How to identify the three species

Symphysodon aequifasciatus

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The Green Discus must also have nine bars, but almost all of uniform intensity. It must have spots; striking
rust-brown to dark red ones which may range from just a few to all over the body — mainly in alpha
animals — and may create a broken or continuous pattern of rows.

If none are visible on the body they are, without exception, in the anal fin region of adults on a green or
blue base colour. Even if in some populations the spots are not clearly visible, they are still present in rows
within the base colour. No other species exhibits this pattern. Sometimes the forehead has stripes.

The Green Discus is adult at 9-10cm/3.5-3.9” and hardly ever reaches 14cm/5.5” in nature. It is also limited
to black waters, rarely mixed, at a pH value always below 6 and averaging around 5.2-5.4.

Symphysodon discus

The real Heckel Discus must have nine black bars. They are normally dark or black, sometimes greyish or in
negative colour, but only three should be intense and prominent.

These are the first, fifth and ninth in the caudal peduncle — the fifth almost always being the broadest, most
dominant and most intense.

In addition, S. discus must have stripes usually running horizontally, rarely straight, mostly over their entire
body, There’s usually between 13 and 21, averaging at 18, and they are 1-3mm wide.

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The Heckel is on average the smallest of the three species. Adults are about 9cm/3.5” and rarely exceed
12cm/4.7” SL in nature. It is found only in very acid black water with pH values below 5.1 —mostly between
3.8-4.8.

Symphysodon haraldi

The Brown or Blue Discus can have eight to 16 bars. This feature has never been never been recorded in
either of the other two species and in S. haradi can be black, grey, brownish or in negative. Some
populations have no bar at all.

Colour variants, by population, range from pure brown, completely yellow, orange, rose, reddish or red, to
blue or to black, and usually have either no pattern of colour at all — not a single parallel — or have all-over
stripes.

Those stripes can dominate the body in royal blue, as in mostly alpha animals, pearl pattern fragments of
stripes or very fine snakeskin stripe pattern stripes following a checkerboard style.

However, no S. haraldi has such a striking colour pattern as either of the other two species — and if they did
it would be an occasional natural hybrid.

Its average size in nature ranges from 10-20cm/4-8” SL. Larger specimens are rare, but S. haraldi grows on
average larger than S. discus or S. aequifasciatus.

It is only found in clear water habitats, sometimes mixed with white water of pH ranging from 6.0-7.8, these
conditions also making it the most easy to breed.

Where are they distributed?

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The Heckel, as mentioned earlier, is only found in extreme acid black waters and specifically in the Rio
Nhamundá. This is its most eastern distribution in Amazonia, as the formerly mentioned location in the Rio
Trombetas is very doubtful.

I was never able to find them there and the specimens in the Museu de Zoologia Universidade de Sao Paulo
are not S. discus, although they are registered as such.

They can also be found in Rio Jatapu, Rio Urubu and Rio Negro systems — all of them left  Amazon
tributaries — and in the Rio Abacaxís and its tributary, the Rio Marimari, which is a Paraná Urariá affluent in
the southern Amazon region.

Green Discus populations are restricted to the western Amazon region. In southern tributaries of the Rio
Solimões they are found from the Rio Urucú (Coari region) west in almost all tributaries and lakes to the Rio
Jantiatuba, including Tefé where the first were found in 1865.

In the northern tributaries they are found only in the Mamirauá, the right-hand region of the Japurá river
system in the Tonantins and again in the lower Putumayo right-hand tributaries and lakes. They are always
confined to black waters and mixed only in the rainy season.

Green Discus are found in the Rio Nanay, but it is not a natural distribution. More than 30 years ago a ship
carrying a consignment of Discus to Iquitos from the Jutaí river sank with 3,000 on board and they have
established themselves there. The water parameters are almost the same as their original habitat.

Brown and Blue Discus have the largest distribution of the three species. They are found almost throughout
the middle and lower Amazon basin, from the most eastern end of Colombia to the most western part of
the island of Marajó.

Yet they are restricted to clear water habitats and very rarely found in white or black waters), except when
mixed by sudden rainfalls. No Discus is found in rivers like the Amazon itself, no Discus is in the Madeira in
the Purus, Javari, Rio Branco or in the Japurá river.

Their most eastern river is the Tocantins river system. It is the last major southern affluent of the lower
Amazon and where a large hydroelectric dam was built in 1984. Nobody has found Discus there since.  

Their most westerly territory is the Rio Içá, a northern affluent. They are also found in smaller river systems
such as the Calderón, coming from Colombia and Río Preto do Belém.

What are their habitats like?

All three species of Discus can easily be distinguished by their own chemical water parameters and that’s
why I recommend never keeping them together.

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The habitat of Heckel Discus (S. discus) is always water of a dark tea colour, with visibility up to 1m/3.3’ and
rarely more; pH never above 5.0 but averaging 4.5; conductivity from 6-12 µS/cm — but the average is
always below 10. They live only in extreme acid water and oxygen concentration is often only 2.8 mg/l.

Heckels are active in daytime in groups of 30-200 or even more, standing in deep water, along rivers, or lake
edges at a drop-off, normally at a depth of 1.5-4m/5-13’ among mostly acará-açú bushes (Licania spp.), a
plant widespread in the Amazon basin and living partly under water.

In between are fallen trees and logs —  and there’s always fine white sand present too.

When the water rises the Discus habitat is the igapós — the flooded rainforests — and they breed and feed
while hidden and therefore reasonably well protected from most predators.

Their daytime rest areas are always shady and they rarely swim in open waters in bright sunlight. Normally
they don’t live near submersed vegetation as it cannot grow in such depth of black water. Sometimes
Utricularia spp. can be found floating above, as can Salvinia spp. or Eichhornia spp. Driftwood is always
present.

The Green Discus lives in less blackish water with visibility of 1m-2m/3.3-6.6’; pH from 4.8-5.8, never above 6
but averaging 5.2; conductivity from 8-15 µS/cm and rarely higher or lower — although the average is
always above 10 µS/cm. Oxygen concentration is often just above 2.0 mg/l.

They live during the day in groups of 400-800 or more, standing in deeper water, along the edges of bays
and lakes where there’s a drop-off and normally at 2-4m/6.6-13.1’ depth, mostly among fallen tree trunks
during the daytime.

The Green Discus can be found among acará-açú bushes, especially during rising waters from September-
October through to February.  As with the other species, during rising levels they spread out in flooded
rainforests to spawn and raise their young, protected from intruders and with plenty of food available.

There’s no submersed vegetation in their habitat as it can’t grow in such a depth of blackish water.
Sometimes Pistia stratiotes, Salvinia spp. and Azolla spp. float above, but rarely Eichhornia spp.  They do live
over fine sandy bottom, normally beige coloured and there’s always driftwood and leaves present.

Brown and Blue Discus live in clear water habitats, especially at the beginning of the rainy season, mixed
with white water, but rarely in black water.

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Visibility underwater varies from 2-5m/6.5-16’. The pH value of their habitat is almost constantly above 6,
often over 7, with oxygen concentrations around 4.1 mg/l and high conductivity of normally over 25 µS/cm
— sometimes to 70 µS/cm.

Like the other two species they stay during the daytime in 1.5-2.5m/4.9-8.2’ on or near the lake or riverbank
and often in groups up to 1,000.

Some submersed plants can be seen in their habitat, and I found them below large Nymphaea spp.
swimming, or near large Echinodorus spp. growing partly underwater near edges, but often with floating
plants such as Pistia stratiotes, Eichhornia spp., Salvinia, Azolla spp. or even below floating Utricularia spp.

They always live below fallen trees and branches, sometimes also between acará-açú bushes and camu-
camu bushes (Myrciaria dubia), which also live partly under the water surface.

Sharing some common factors

No species lives in fast flowing water. All three are restricted to quiet waters, bays and mostly lakes, of which
there are more than 100,000 in Amazonia!

If a river is mentioned in any species distribution it means they are found only in its bays, or distant lakes —
the still waters. Discus are never found anywhere near cascades or a waterfall as they stay far from such
geographic features and never above rapids or a waterfall.

Habitats are rock free and Discus never live in white waters.

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Definitive guide to Discus: part two
Definitive guide to Discus: part two

Heiko Bleher explains how the three species of Discus vary and identifies their natural nutritional needs.

Although precise distributions of the three species and variants of Discus were highlighted in part one of
this guide, there are variations within each one of those species. 

Symphysodon discus, the Heckel Discus, is the only one I found that repeatedly hybridises in nature. It does
so in at least three locations: one being near the mouth of the Rio Nhamundá where the very acid and
extreme soft river enters the almost neutral Lago Nhamundá.  This is also home to different variants of the
Brown and Blue discus (S. haraldi). 

Those two species possibly meet and some may cross breed during extreme floods at this meeting of the
waters. 

I also found an overlapping of habitats in the Jatapu river where it enters the Uatumã river. S. discus live in
the former site and S. haraldi the latter. 

There’s also the Rio Marimari tributary of the Abacaxís where, during extreme flooding, Heckel Discus can
possibly meet with S. haraldi (Brown or Blue variants) where it connects to the Canumã river system.

Natural hybrids only occur when extreme high waters arrive and such natural hybrids have bred perhaps
only once or twice. These creatures are almost aways sterile.

So far no natural hybrids of Green Discus (Symphysodon aequifasciatus) have been recorded. However
William Crampton published in 2008 some findings of Blue Discus and Green Discus  living in parts of Lake
Amanã practically together. They were collected in almost the same spot — but no hybrid was visible.

I had previously only collected Blue Discus from this lake.   

In the most western distribution of the Green Discus, I found some specimens in lakes of the lower Juruá,
which show similarities with Blue Discus. 

Symphysodon haraldi, the Brown and the Blue Discus, do occasionally hybridise in nature, during extreme
floods when they may overlap in the areas mentioned. However a natural cross of S. haraldi and
aequifasciatus was not known until today — even though there is, besides Crampton’s discovery of
overlapping with S. haraldi, an ‘almost’ meeting point of Blue and Green Discus. 

This is known from the Rio Grande Coari and the Rio Urucú where these two species are separated only by
the large Lago do Coari. Green are only in the Urucú and Blue in the Rio Grande Coari. However, again no
natural hybrid has been seen.

14
  

What fish live with Discus?

I always noted the fish species and genera I also netted when taking Discus. I also tried to see far enough
underwater to find the real companions of Discus, which are their visitors — and enemies.

The genera and species which live with them most frequently are Pterophyllum scalare and P. leopoldi,
Geophagus spp. (pictured above) and Acarichthys heckelii, Satanoperca spp. and Biotodoma spp.

Heros spp was in almost every netting, then Hypselecara spp. and with Heckel Discus there were mostly
Hoplarchus psittacus and Uaru amphiacanthoides. Mesonauta spp. was found almost all the time above the
Discus, then followed Chaetobranchus and Chaetobranchopsis spp. 

Of the peaceful visitors — groups or individuals which sometimes moved with the Discus group — most
often seen was Crenicichla spp. These were usually the larger ones which come in small groups, like C.
marmorata, C. albopunctata, C. geayi, C. johanna, reticulata and C. saxatilis. 

Then came Leporinus spp., and mainly L. fasciatus, L. affinis, L. agassizii, L. arcus and L. friderici, and
Laemolyta proxima, L. taeniata and L. petiti.

The top swimmers of the upper regions which visit Discus habitats in groups are: Boulengerella spp.
(pictured above), Chalceus spp., Triportheus spp., 

Bryconops spp. and Hemiodus spp., but rarely Gasteropelecus and Carnegiella or Thoracocharax spp.

Then there are frequent bottom visitors, such as the peaceful freshwater stingrays Potamotrygon spp. and
Paratrygon aierba.

There are also peaceful catfish visitors like Hypostomus spp. — though never keep these with Discus in
aquaria — Pimelodus spp. like P. blochii and P. ornatus, Liposarchus spp., Pterygoplichthys spp., Squaliforma
spp., Rineloricaria spp., and Spatyloricaria spp. 

In some habitats there will be Leporacanthicus, Pseudacanthicus,  Pseudancistrus and Panaque spp., but very
rarely will you see small loricariids such as Peckoltia and Hyancistrus spp. 

15
Small fish species rarely live alongside Discus as it is too deep for them, so their habitat is frequented by
larger predators. Those are primarily Pristobrycon spp., Pygocentrus spp., and Serrasalmus spp., and they
normally try to bite the alpha animal while its group flees and tries to find shelter. 

The Acestrorhynchus spp., with its needle sharp teeth also tries to bite, especially the lower tail portion, and
the Catoprion mento eats their scales. That is why some scales grow backwards on the alpha animal and
also why wild Discus are damaged so often…

What do Discus eat?

I have examined hundreds of specimens during many years and stomach and gut contents among wild
Discus indicate an order of precedence: detritus, then plant material (flowers, fruits, seeds, leaves), algae and
micro-algae, aquatic invertebrates and terrestrial and arboreal arthropods.

The Amazon has adapted to nature for fishes during millennia of evolution. Plants of the tropical rainforest
have little water and cannot flourish during the dry season so cannot waste energy. The same happens to
most freshwater fishes. 

During the dry period, with a much reduced water level and hardly any food source — except for predators
— many fish starve or feed on the little available, usually detritus. 

Discus and many other fishes eat what they can get, but have to be constantly aware of carnivorous
predators. 

During the six to nine months of floods, almost all trees and bushes, flower and have fruits and seeds —
which is the main nutrition of roughly 75% of all Amazonian fishes.

The adults, and babies which grow to adults in that period, can then fill their stomachs and guts.

The carnivorous predators starve as they cannot find their prey in the huge water masses.

How much nutrition?

I have found the following percentage of nutrition in each one of the three species:

 Symphysodon discus during low water: 55% detritus; 15% plant material; 12% algae and micro-
algae; 10% aquatic invertebrates; 8% terrestrial and arboreal arthropods. During high water: 28%
detritus; 52% plant material; 5% algae and micro-algae; 3% aquatic invertebrates; 12% terrestrial
and arboreal arthropods.
 Symphysodon aequifasciatus low water: 52% detritus; 18% plant material; 15% algae and micro-
algae; 13% aquatic invertebrates; 2% terrestrial and arboreal arthropods. High water: 8% detritus;
62% plant material; 8% algae and micro-algae; 5% aquatic invertebrates; 17% terrestrial and
arboreal arthropods.
 Symphysodon haraldi low water: 39% detritus; 9% plant material; 25% algae and micro-algae; 22%
aquatic invertebrates; 5% terrestrial and arboreal arthropods. High water: 6% detritus; 44% Plant
material; 12% algae and micro-algae; 16% aquatic invertebrates; 22% terrestrial and arboreal
arthropods.

Simply worlds apart

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If you look closely to the habitats featured previously and their chemical water parameters and nutrition,
you can understand why I suggest separating each of the three species.

Definitely never mix wilds with tank-bred Discus, as these are fish that are simply worlds apart. 

The former knows only nature and has parasites he can tolerate — the latter knows only small tanks,
different feeds and has parasites which bear no relation with those from the wild. They can can never be
matched up.

Symphysodon discus biotope:

Try for no less than five or six and allow each adult at least 40 l/8.8 gal. Add white sand, even powder sand.
Have driftwood watered for weeks, if not find large driftwood. Add floating plants as found in nature and if
you want submersed varieties place a few in the background, like Echinodorus bleherae, or large Cyperus
helferi. 

These fish need shade, so never place the aquarium where people walk by constantly or near doors, and not
in direct sunlight. Yet, if a beam hits occasionally you’ll see brilliant colours that only the sun can bring it out.

For tank mates I suggest at least three Geophagus spp., or Satanoperca spp. and four or five larger P.
leopoldi or P. scalare  — the so called Rio Negro-Altum. Also try three Uaru amphiacanthoides and up to
five Mesonauta spp. They will fill the top layers nicely.

Heros, Hypselecara and Biotodoma wavrini are also worth adding to the mix.

If you want some catfishes, choose some mentioned earlier, but do not overcrowd the tank.

A powerful filter with peat is important, but ensure the flow is never strong. I also suggest HQI hanging
lamps. 

Symphysodon aequifasciatus biotope: 

Have no less than five or six and allow 40-50 l/8.8-11 gal for each adult. Place white or beige sand and again
well-watered driftwood. If you cannot find large pieces, add floating plants like Pistia stratiotes or Eichhornia
spp. Utricularia spp. is always nice and try using Echinodorus and/or Cyperus spp. in the background. 

Ensure the fish have shade and place the aquarium in the same position as for Heckel Discus.

For mates go for at least three Geophagus spp., Satanoperca spp., or Biotodoma spp., and four or five larger
P. scalare  — those that sell as Peru-Altum in the hobby.

I would again try three Uaru amphiacanthoides and perhaps five Mesonauta spp., Heros and Hypselecara.
spp., and maybe some larger hatchetfishes like a group of Thoracocharax or Gasteropelecus spp. 

If wanting catfish, choose from those mentioned but I suggest larger loricariids, and never Hypostomus spp.

This set-up also needs a powerful filter with peat changed once a month, but ensure that the flow is never
too strong. Again go for HQI hanging lamps. 

Symphysodon haraldi biotope:

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Similarly, have not less than fve or six specimens and allow each adult 50 l/11 gal. Use fine white or beige
sand. If wanting rock only select a few round, white ones for a corner. 

Have watered driftwood and, if very large wood is unavailable, add floating plants as found in nature. If
wanting submersed ones place a few in the background, like Echinodorus bleherae or large Cyperus helferi.
You can also add one very large or two water lilies, Nymphaea sp. 

For some shade, use floating plants if you have no Nymphaea and position the aquarium as with the other
species. 

Brown and Blue Discus are not as sensitive as the other two species, but avoid stressing wild fish, especially
during the first weeks.

As mates I suggest at least three Geophagus spp., or Satanoperca spp., some four or five larger P. scalare.
Six Mesonauta spp. will help fill the top layers. Definitely try three Heros spp., and two Hypselecara and
Biotodoma cupido are very nice. 

Try to get three or four Leporinus fasciatus and Boulengerella spp. like B. maculata. Again select catfishes as
mentioned but don’t overcrowd.  A powerful filter with peat is again important, but ensure flow is never too
strong. Go for HQI hanging lamps. 

This article was first published in the December 2009 issue of Practical Fishkeeping. It may not be
reproduced without written permission

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