MODULE -6

GRADING

Patterns initially are made in only one size. In order to produce clothing that fits various body types and
sizes, the pattern pieces must be increased or decreased geometrically to create a complete range of sizes.
The process of resizing the initial pattern is called "grading."  For example, the sample size 10 patterns
must be made larger to accommodate sizes 12, 14 and 16 and smaller for sizes 8 and 6.Pattern grading is
the scaling of a pattern to a different size by implementing important points of the pattern using an
algorithm in the clothing and footwear industry.  What is the purpose of grading clothing patterns?  The
purpose of grading is to proportionally increase or decrease the size of a pattern, while maintaining shape,
fit, balance, and scale of the garment.

Historically, the science of grading went hand-in-hand with the advent of commercial patterns and the
mass-production of pattern-built clothing some 150 years ago. To properly fit a pattern to a range of sizes,
each pattern piece needed to be graded, or systematically increased or decreased. Today, pattern
companies and apparel manufacturers take a middle-sized pattern (for example size Medium) and grade it
up for larger sizes and grade it down for smaller sizes.

Grading apparel has primarily three different methods that are often used in the fashion industry.
Whether you want to take your favorite pattern up (or down) a size or two or if you want to create new
collection of clothing, pattern grading is an important process.  Once you understand the nuances, you'll be
able to take your sewing to the next level.  With proper pattern grading techniques, a home sewer, custom
dressmaker, novice, or professional fashion designer design incredibly well designed clothing.  

There are three basic methods of grading: cut and spread, pattern shifting, and computer grading.

Cut-and-spread method: The easiest method, which is the basis of the other two methods, is to cut the
pattern and spread the pieces by a specific amount to grade up, or overlap them to grade down. No special
training or tools are required-just scissors, a pencil, tape, and a ruler that breaks 1 inch down to 1/64.   Or
use a metric ruler if you prefer.

Pattern shifting: Pattern shifting is the process of increasing the overall dimensions of a pattern by moving
it a measured dis-tance up and down and left and right, (using a specially designed ruler) and redrawing
the outline, to produce the same results as the cut-and-spread method.

Computer Grading: The most recent development, computer grading, is the fastest method, but tends to
be an investment only larger manufacturers can afford. However, sophisticated home computer software
is becoming affordable.

Regarding the above three methods, they each have their pros and cons.  Fortunately, each method works
rather well for producing correct grading (if the procedure is followed properly). It's important to
understand that “grading patterns” only makes the shape larger or smaller and isn't intended to change
the clothing’s shape. Grading also reflects the fact that individuals of different sizes are proportionately
different.  Their body segments are not uniformly different.  When a pattern maker or designer grades a
size up or down, they do not simply make everything equally larger or smaller.   They will actually take into
account that different body parts increase at different and proportional amounts.
 Shrinkage Incorporation in Pattern Grading

Grading and shrinkage incorporation in a pattern is very important and plays a big role in not only getting correct fit
and drape of a garment but also measurements as graded specs. Pattern grading is a technique of scaling a pattern
to reproduce a pattern in other sizes. It must be done accurately. To properly fit a pattern to a range of sizes, each
pattern piece needed to be graded, or systematically increased or decreased. The purpose of grading is to
proportionally increase or decrease the size of a pattern, while maintaining shape, fit, balance and scale of style
details. It’s important to remember that grading only makes a shape larger or smaller and isn’t intended to change a
shape. Grading also reflects the fact that individuals of different sized are proportionately different, not uniformly
different.

Stacking or “0” point for grading

For grading it is important to have stack point which will define the “x” or “y” grading of pattern. It is defined as “0”
point located at the centre of the pattern of a Front, back or sleeve panel. For centre front it is perpendicular to the
centre of check line. For sleeve the “0” point is centre of sleeve at the bicep line.

Length Grade

Front and back neck drop is applied to shoulder neck point. Shoulder line should remain parallel between sizes.

Body length is distributed between the shoulder neck point and the bottom. Grading is divided between
shoulder/beck point, neck drop, armhole, waist, hip and bottom. Body length combined grading is total of centre
front length and neck drop.

Neck width is applied at the shoulder neck point it is always parallel to check line.

Armhole curve is combined measurement of armhole width and armhole height grade

Sleeve Grade

Sleeve armhole is combined measurement of sleeve cap height grade and sleeve bicep grade along the armhole
curve.

Sleeve length from shoulder is distributed between the sleeve cap and bottom sleeve edge. Sleeve cap grade is
applied above bicep line and sleeve cap while balance length is divided between bicep line and sleeve cuff.