Lesson 1

Introduction to clothing
Introduction
INTRODUCTION: The knowledge of various type of stitches is necessary for the beginners before
starting to sew on the original garment. It is better to practice these stitches on a small piece of fabric
prior to stitching on the original garment. Keep the hands clean before stitching, so that the new clothes
will not soil. Sit in a comfortable position while sewing and make sure the room is well illuminated. Basic
stitches are divided into constructive and decorative stitches. Constructive stitches are further divided
into temporary and permanent stitches . So if you are ready to learn let us move forward and
learn.

Learning Outcomes

At the end of this lesson, you are expected to:

 Identify and list the different hand stitching.
 Perform hand stitching

ACTIVITY

Concept Mapping

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ANALYSIS

Concept Mapping

1. What are the aspects that you have considered in mind before searching for words or
phrases that can be associated with the word ‘clothing’? Why?
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 2. Based on the words or phrases you have provided, how would you define ‘clothing ’ in one
sentence with 5 words?
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Basic hand stitches

Classification of Basic hand stitches

TEMPORARY STITCHES:

Tacking or basting is a temporary stitch used for holding two or more layers of fabric together during
fitting or before working the permanent machine stitches. Usually the stitch is worked from right to left.
This is the only stitch which is started with a knot and is worked in white or light-coloured thread that
contrasts with the fabric so that it can be easily noticed and removed once the permanent stitch is worked.
Dark thread can leave marks on a light-coloured fabric. The length of the stitches will vary depending on
the weight of the fabric and how securely the pieces have to be held together. To end basting, make two
stitches one on top of another. There are several types of basting stitches, four of which are explained
below:

1. Even basting 3. Diagonal basting

2. Uneven basting 4. Slip basting

1. Even basting : Use fine needle and start the stitch with a knot. The
stitches are of equal length about ¼” on both sides of the material. A
number of longer stitches can be worked at a time. This is used on smooth
fabrics and in areas that require close control, such as curved seams, seams
with ease and set-in sleeves.

2. Uneven basting: In this, the stitches on the upper side are ½” or at least
twice that on the under side (¼ ”). This stitch can be used for longer folds
and seams. Use this type of tacking as a guideline or where there is little or
no strain.

3. Diagonal basting: This consists of horizontal stitches taken parallel to each

other and producing diagonal floats in between. It is used to hold or control
fabric layers within an area during construction and pressing. Short stitches,
taken close together, give more control than do longer stitches taken far
apart. The short diagonal basting is used to hold seam edges flat during
stitching or pressing. The long diagonal basting is worked to hold underlining
to garment fabric during construction.

4. Slip basting: is a temporary uneven slipstitch that permits precise

matching of plaids, stripes, and some large prints at seamlines. It is also a
practical way to baste intricately curved sections, or to make fitting
adjustments from right side. Crease and turn under one edge along its
seamline. With right sides up, lay the folded edge in position along the
seamline of the corresponding garment piece, matching the fabric design;
pin. Working from right to left and using stitches 1 /4 ” in length , take a
stitch through the lower garment section, then take the next stitch
through fold of upper edge. Continue to alternate stitches in this way,
removing pins as you go.

PERMANENT STITCHES:

1) These stitches are made permanent on the garment and need not be removed later like temporary
stitches. They are worked using matching thread and the stitching line starts and ends with a back stitch.
Some of permanent stitches are ;

1. Running stitch 5. Slip stitching

2. Back stitch 6. Overcasting

3. Run and back stitch 7.Overhand stitch

4. Hemming stitch 8. Whipstitch.

1. Running Stitch: This is the simplest form of hand stitch which is used for
permanent sewing. This stitch is worked using same colour thread.
Handmade seams, tucks, mending, shirring, quilting, gathering and finishing
edges can be done with this stitch. It is similar to even basting, but the
stitches are much smaller, straight, fine and evenly spaced. The length of the
stitches vary from 1 /16 to 1 /8 inch in length. Pass the needle through the
fabric several times before pulling it through. It is comparatively easy and can
be worked fast.

2. Back stitch: This stitch is strong and sometimes substituted for machine
stitch. It takes much time. Care must be taken while stitching, since stitching is
done on the right side of the fabric. On the wrong side of the fabric the stitch
is similar to stem stitch. Stitches should be about 1/8” long on the right side.
To make the back stitch, push needle up through the material at a point on
the stitching line about 1/8” from its right end. Take a stitch inserting the
needle 1/8” back of the thread at the beginning of the stitching line and
bringing it out an equal distance in the front of the thread. Repeat this way,
keeping stitches uniform in size and fairly firm.

3. Run and back or Combination stitch: This stitch is a combination of a back stitch and three to four
running stitches. This is used where back stitch is not compulsory and is used for working plain seam
done by hand. This stitch is faster than the back stitch and stronger than the running stitch.

4. Hemming stitch: This is used to hold the in place the bottom fold of the
garment usually known as the hem. Hemming must be fine, evenly spaced
and must be inconspicuous from the right side of the garment. Start the
hem with a tiny back stitch and finish with the same. Hemming must be as
invisible as possible on the right side of the garment. Work slanting stitch
or vertical stitch on wrong side, close enough to hold the hem securely,
picking one or two yarns of the fabric. Usually this stitch is seen in all types
of garments. Slant hemming stitch is quick to work, but is least durable
because of the long thread floats which are subjected to abrasion.
Whereas vertical hemming stitch is durable and stable stitch best suited for
hems whose edges are finished with woven edge or stretchlace seam tape.
Very little thread is exposed, reducing the risk of fraying and breaking.

5) Slip stitching: This is a nearly invisible stitch formed by slipping the

thread under a fold of the fabric. It can be worked to secure hems and
facings. It is also used to attach patch pockets, trims, coat and jacket
linings. Fasten the thread beneath the hem, bringing the needle out
through the edge of the fold. Take a tiny stitch in the garment directly
beneath the point where the thread leaves the fold. Now insert the
needle in the hem, slip it along inside the fold and bring it out again about
1 /2 inch away. Repeat the stitch.
6) Overcasting: This is the customary hand stitch for finishing
the raw edges of fabric to prevent them from ravelling. In
general, the more the fabric ravels , the deeper and closer the
stitches should be worked. Take diagonal stitches over the
edge, spacing them evenly apart at uniform depth.

7) Overhand stitch: These tiny, even stitches are used to hold

together two finished edges, as, for example, when attaching
lace edgings or ribbon to a garment. Insert needle diagonally
from the back edge through to the front edge, picking up only
one or two threads each time. The needle is inserted directly
behind thread from previous stitch and is brought out a stitch
length away. Keep the stitches uniform in their size and spacing.

8) Whipstitch: This is a variation of the overhand stitch, the main

difference being the angle at which the needle is held. Though
generally used to join two finished edges, it can also hold a raw
edge neatly against a flat surface. Insert needle at right angle and
close to the edge, picking up only a few threads. Slanted floats
will be produced between the tiny stitches. Space between
stitches can be short or long, depending on the circumstances.

Other stitches

Tailors' Tacks

Tailors' tacks are threads laced through the fabric. They are used to mark
two thicknesses of material and should be made before the pattern is
removed after cutting out a garment. Use a long double thread. Take a
small stitch through the perforation of the pattern and into the double
thickness of fabric, leaving an end of thread about I inch in length. Take
another stitch in exactly the same place, leaving a large loop (Fig. 30);
then cut the thread, leaving an end about I inch long. If tailors' tacks are
to be close together, the thread may be carried from one tack to the
other, and the same process repeated. The thread is then cut between
each tack so that the pattern can be removed. Take the pattern off and
separate the thicknesses of material as far as threads will permit; cut in
the center of the thread. This leaves threads on each piece, marking both
pieces of material in one process. U se.-To mark position of pleats, tucks,
darts, pockets, seam allowances and notches, where two pieces are to
be exactly the same.
DECORATIVE STITCHES

Thread used for decorative stitches is selected to show contrast either in color, texture, or weight with
the fabric on which it is used. Cotton or mercerized cotton is used on cotton fabrics. Silk or rayon thread
is used on silk and wool fabrics. Wool yarn is sometimes used on wool and silk fabrics. Thread for
decorative stitches is either made of several separate strands or it may be a single thread loosely
twisted. Strand thread gives a soft effect, while twisted thread gives a harder effect. When decorative
stitches are used on washable fabrics the thread should be color fast. Embroidery, crewel, or chenille
needles should be used with heavy art threads.

Featherstitching

Featherstitching is made up of variations of the blanket stitch taken alternately on the right and left
sides of a center line. The stitches should be uniform in size and direction, and equal distances apart.
Suitable embroidery thread should be used.

A X>( Fig. 31.- Single straight featherstitch.is the center guide line. Bring needle out
at A, securing thread with several back stitches on wrong side. Hold thread down
with left thumb and insert needle at B, bringing it out at C, forming a blanket stitch.
Throw thread to the left and make stitch DE. The distance between stitches BC and
DE is usually twice the length of the stitch taken. The needle is always put in fabric
straight across from or just below end of last stitch taken. Fasten thread with a
short stitch to hold last blanket stitch in place.

Use.-As a decoration to form a design or to hold edges of hems and facings

in place.

2. Single Slanting Featherstitch.-AX (Fig. 32) is the center of the design. Bring
needle out at A, securing thread on wrong- side with several back stitches .. Insert
needle at B, and bring it out again at C. Holding the thread down with left thumb,
put the needle in at D and bring it out at E, joining a second blanket stitch. Repeat on opposite side.

Use.-See single straight featherstitching.

Blanket Stitch The blanket stitch may be made on a finished or raw edge. The stitches should be uniform
in size and spacing, and perpendicular to the edge. Use embroidery thread. Work from left to right, with
material held along forefinger of left hand and edge to be finished toward you. Fasten thread with back
stitches on back of narrow hem, or on raw edge with two or three running stitches made toward edge.
Bring the needle out on the edge to
be finished. By varying the length of
the stitch and by grouping the
stitches, attractive variations may be
made (Fig. 33). Holding thread under
thumb of left hand, place point of needle in fabric the desired distance from the edge (this may be the
width of the narrow hem or about ¼ inch). Bring it out from the under side of fabric and over thread
from last stitch. The needle passes through a loop of thread each time it is drawn from the fabric, so that
when the stitch is finished a thread follows along the edge of the fabric. Continue in this manner,
inserting needle to right of stitch just made. The stitches are usually a little less than ¼ inch apart.
Fasten thread on wrong side with running stitches.

U se.-To hold narrow hems or appliqued designs in place, to finish raw edges of blankets or garments,
and to outline decorative designs.

Outline Stitch

Outline stitches should be of even length and uniform slant. Work from left to right, and follow
the line of a design. Use suitable embroidery thread. Fasten thread with several running stitches
in the opposite direction from which work is to be done. Take a stitch along the line of the design
with the needle point slanted toward the left shoulder and thread thrown to right of work. Make
each stitch overlap half way on preceding stitch. The thread always falls on the same side of
needle. Fasten thread with running stitches on wrong side of work. Variations in this stitch are
made by throwing the thread to the left for all stitches, making the stitches shorter or longer,
and by changing the slant of the needle. U se.-As a decoration to outline a design or to hold a
hem in place

Cross Stitch

This stitch forms a series of crosses. The stitches should cross in center; cross in the
same way and work in same direction with finished crosses meeting. On wrong
side, work is made up of horizontal and vertical lines. The threads of the fabric,
cross stitch Fig. 35.-Cross stitch. canvas, or a stamp design, will serve as a guide.
Use suitable embroidery thread. Begin at the top of the design and work down.
Fasten thread by leaving a long end on wrong side, to be later held in place by
cross stitching. Bring the needle out at A (Fig. 35), insert at B, bring out at C, and
insert at D, thus completing the first cross. Bring the needle out at E to start the
second cross. Insert at C, bring out at F, insert at A, bring out at G, starting third
cross. Repeat to end of row, then turn material and work next row. If there is a
long line of crosses to be made it may be quicker to make all the stitches in the same direction :first,
then cross them all at one time. If working on canvas, draw threads tightly, so that when canvas is
removed thread will not be loose. When design is completed soften canvas by rubbing it between the
hands, or dampen slightly, and remove threads singly.

Use.-For decoration.

Decorative Running Stitch

Several rows of running stitches of varying lengths and different

colors of embroidery thread make attractive decorations (Fig. 36).

Use.-As a decoration on heavier materials.

CHAIN STITCH

This stitch resembles the links of a chain. The stitches should be uniform in size, they
should all interlock, and each stitch or link should be dosed at the top. Use embroidery
thread. Fasten thread with several running stitches. Bring the needle out at top of design to
be chain-stitched and to the right side of fabric. Hold the thread under the left thumb a
little to the left of line of design. Insert needle to the right of hole through which the
thread just came, and bring it out the length of a stitch in advance along the line of the
design, passing needle over thread held by thumb (Fig. 37). Draw up the stitch to form a
loop. Make a short stitch over the last loop to hold it in place. Fasten thread with back
stitches on wrong side. Use.-As a decoration.

APPLICATION

Task 1: The language of Clothing

Reflect on the concepts presented in the abstraction and connect these to your personal
experience through making a scrapbook of the constructive and decorative stitches and label them.
Material Required

1. Coloured pens/pencils 4. Scissors

2. Scrapbook 5. Adhesive/glue

3. Pictures of constructive and decorative

stitches

Procedure

1. Search and collect the pictures of different types of constructive and decorative stitches.

2. Cut the pictures very neatly with scissors.

3. Paste them in a scrapbook.

4. Label them.

Deepening Activity

In an A4 bond paper with Arial 12 font style and size, 1.5 spacing, and having a moderate
margin, summarize in 5 paragraph, (with atleast 12 sentences each paragraph, with a maximum of
5 words in each sentence) the topic presented above relating to your personal experiences with
hand stitching.

Point System: content 20 points, organization 10 points, grammar 5 points, format 5 points. = 40
points.
 CLOSURE
Task # 2
Prepare samples of hand stitches as given in this session.
Material Required
1. Cotton fabric to prepare samples (12" 5. Pen
x 12") 6. Pencil
2. Needle 7. Eraser
3. Thread 8. A4-sized chart sheet
4. Frame 9. Glue 10. Markers/coloured pens
Procedure
1. Use slip basting, running stitch, back stitch and hem stitch to finish four sides of the sample
fabric.
2. Make different constructive (temporary and permanent) stitches on the sample.
3. Paste them on the chart sheet and write where they are used.
4. Label them.
5. Submit your work at the designated submission box DOSCST BEC GUARDHOUSE.

Note: rubrics for task 1 and task 2 will be posted on our Group Chat.
W.H.E.W. We Have Ended Well

Well done! Congratulate yourself. You have just finished Lesson 1 of this module. Now,
if you are ready, please proceed to Lesson 2, enjoy and go higher