A BEGINNER'S GUIDE TO USING

Sewing
Patterns
TIPS, TRICKS, AND TECHNIQUES
TO HELP YOU WITH YOUR NEXT PROJECT

Wr
itt
Ch en b
e y
Wr lsea :
igh
t
 Introduction
Hello!
I'm Chelsea and I've
compiled this guide to help
people learn to use commercial
sewing patterns. Using these patterns is a
great skill and can help you make many
items that are difficult to draft by hand.
In this guide you will find resources on
how to understand your pattern's
instructions. I've also included some examples
from a pattern I have used!
Remember if you get stuck, many brands
such as McCall's and Simplicity have a
hotline to call with any questions. Check
your pattern packaging for information!
Good Luck!
-Chelsea
i.
Table of 
Contents
i. Introduction
ii. Table of Contents
Page 1 Glossary
Page 4 Symbols
Page 7 Getting Started
Page 10 Pattern Cutting
Page 12 Follow Instructions
Page 16 Finished Product
 Glossary
This glossary covers terms
s
ern
p att own
e ir
Som e the of
lud ry
inc lossa you w
ill
that are commonly found
in commercial patterns
g es e
h n iqu to us
e c d
t nee

Applique Sewing a piece of fabric atop another after

Backstitch
folding under sides to create a clean edge
Used at the beginning and end of a machine

Bar Tack
sewn seam to anchor the seam in place
A group of closely sewn stitches that is used

Baste
to tack a belt loop or similar item in place
Temporary stitching used to hold a sewing

Bias
project in place
Runs diagonally to the straight grain of the

Bias Tape
fabric. This is the stretchiest part on the fabric.
Strips of fabric cut on the bias, often turned

Binding
under and pressed
Refers to fabric that is folded and used for

Bodice
the encasing of the raw edges
Refers to the part of a garment or pattern
that goes from shoulder to waist

1
 Glossary
Casing Fabric envelope of sorts for encasing elastic,

Cutting Line
a drawstring, or similar material
On a pattern, the outermost dark line is the

Dart
line upon which you cut
V shaped adjustment to a pattern to allow

Facing
for more or less fullness in certain areas
Sewing a piece of fabric atop another after

Fold line
folding under sides to create a clean edge
Many pattern pieces are placed on the fold

French Seam
of fabric. The goal is to have no center seam.
Completely enclosed seam. Used for sheer

Gather
fabrics or for high couture.
Gathering allows for making a long piece of

Grain
fabric to fit with a shorter piece of fabric
Direction of the fabric that runs parallel to

Inseam
the selvage
Seam inside the leg of pants that runs from

Interfacing
the crotch to the hem.
Fabric used between layers of fabric to

Lining
provide stabilization and form
Used to finish the inside of a garment, to

Notch
hide the seam construction
Shown on a pattern with a dark diamond.
They should be matched on seams when sewing

2
 Glossary
Notion A term used for any item used for sewing

Overlock
other than the fabric and the machine.
An overcast stitch to prevent ravelling of

Overcasting
fabric
Stitching done over a seam to prevent

Pinking
ravelling that is done by hand or machine.
Shears with a V shape along the edge used

Raw (edge)
to cut fabric and have it remain ravel-free.
The edge of fabric that is not stitched or

Right Side
finished.
The right side of the fabric is the design
side

Seam Allowance The fabric between the edge of the fabric

Selvedge
and the line of stitching
The edge of the fabric which generally does

Tack
not fray due to manufacturer's finish
A temporary stitch to hold pieces together,

Understitching
usually removed after final stitching
Keeps a facing or lining from rolling onto

View
the right side of a garment
Most patterns show variations on the

Wrong Side
pattern package. Each of these is called a view
V shaped adjustment to a pattern to allow
for more or less fullness in certain areas

3
 Symbols
Cutting Line
Adjustment Line
Fold Line
Stich Line
Grain Line
4
Symbols
Add Ease
Between Dots
Center Front/Back
Darts
Pleat Lines
Notch
5
Symbols
Buttonhole and
Button
Center Front/Back
Darts
Pleat Lines
Zipper Placement
6
 Getting
Started
The front of a
pattern envelope
gives you
information like:
- brand
- reference number
- views
- sizes
- title
7
 First find the view you
The most
important will be making. When I
information on the
back of the made this dress I chose
pattern is the
information on d View A. The "Fabric" and
what fabric anll
notions you wi "Notions" sections will let
you know what kind of
need

8
materials you will need.
 To find your size take your
measurments using a
flexible measuring tape.
Find the size you need in
the view you want and that
will tell you how much fabric
you need.

Once you
purchase your
supplies you'll
be ready to get
started
9
 Pattern
Cutting Inside the
envelope
you'll find both
the pattern
and the
instuctions

Your first step will be to look

at the cutting guide and see
what pieces you will need for
your view and then cut those
from the pattern.
10
Following the
cutting lay out
instructions, attach
your pattern to your
fabric with pins or
O u t P ie c e s
weights Cut

Then cut out the

fabric. Be sure to
add notches and
seam allowances
Positio
n on F where it's noted by
abric
your pattern!
11
 Follow
Instructions
e
ry th ing els
Eve d on t
he
e p en
will d d view y
ou
rn a n g
patte e p readin
K e
chose. tips fr
om
om e
for s projec
t!
t es t
my la
Raw Edges

French seams are great for finishing

edges on straight seams. Simply sew the
fabric wrong sides together with a 1/4"
seam allowance then flip and sew the
same seam with a 5/8" seam allowance
12
 ast
Overc be
itch es can
st or
d before
applie rn
t e r patte
af ewn
ce s are s
pie
her
toget

Overc
ast S
titch

Overcasting can be done by hand or by

machine. There are also special "overlock"
machines called sergers. They cut seam
allowances and overcast with 4 separate
needles to ensure that the seams hold.

13
 It is easiest to add
darts if you use
chalk or a fabric
marker to mark
where they begin
and end before
bodice
Darts in a sewing

Darts are used to customize a

garment's shape to the wearer.
In the image above I use darts
to both add shape to the bust
and to take in the waist for a
more fitted look.
14
 The double fold hem is the
easiest and most fool proof. All
you have to do is turn the edges
of the fabric up twice, iron, then
stitch.

ld Hem
Double Fo

15
 Finished Product
The

16
 Thank you
so much for
reading!