Pattern Cutting

CB Top Line NP CF
NP X
Pattern Cutting
SP
SP
Bust Line UP
True Bust Line

X
New!
X
FRONT BODICE FRONT BODICE
SIZE SIZE
X DATE DATE
NOTES NOTES
Waist Line
Hip Line
METRIC
A New Version of my Pattern Cutting Tutorial
The Fully Featured eBook
Drafting the Bodice Block - A simple and Precise Guide
METRIC VERSION
Watch the Series on YouTube
Visit my site - angelakane.com/pattern-cutting
There are many methods for drafting blocks for dress patterns. I use a variety of
tecniques myself. Most tutorials are confusing, especially for beginners. I have
researched and tested the easist and most reliable method for this series of tutorials.
Look out for more tutorials in this series.
I am using these measurements for this draft
Body Measurements
for this draft
Bust 88cm Chest Width 33cm
Waist 65cm Back Width 35cm
Hips 94cm Shoulder 12.5cm
Back Waist 39cm Waist to Hip 21cm
angelakane.com Copyright © Angela Kane 2005-2019 All rights reserved Page 1

Draw a Rectangle
• Make the Width equal to ½ Hip plus 3cm
• Make the Length equal to the Back Waist plus the Waist to Hip measurement plus
25cm, a little more in larger sizes - refer to Nape Line coming up
• The Waist to Hip is usually between 21 and 23cm down from the waist or the level
of your maximum hip measurement
• Label the down lines as CB for Centre Back and CF for the Centre Front and the
bottom line is the Hip Line
CB Top Line CF
62.5cm long
50cm wide
Hip Line
The Bodice Back

• We will start with The Bodice Back
• This is how the block will look when finished
CB Top Line NP CF
NP
SP
SP
Bust Line UP
True Bust Line

X
BACK FRONT
BODICE BODICE
Waist Line
Hip Line

The Nape Line
• For an 88cm bust the Nape Line is 2.5cm down from the top line
• This is average for UK Size 12 (Bust 87cm)
• Add or Subtract 0.25cm for sizes smaller or larger respectively
• Measure down from the Top Line 2.5cm
• Label it Nape Line
• Square across for a guide line of 8cm or so
Top Line
2.5cm
Nape
Line
about 8cm
The Waist Line

• To find the Waist line, measure down from the Nape using the Back Waist
measurement
• Square across to the Centre Front and label it Waist Line
CB Top Line CF
Nape Line
39cm - Back Waist
Waist Line
Hip Line

The Bust Line
• Measure down from the Nape the half Back Waist measurement plus 1cm
• For Bust over 100cm, add 1.5cm instead and label Bust Line. Square across to CF
• The Bust Line is also the Armhole Depth
CB Top Line CF
Nape Line
20.5cm
Bust Line
Waist Line
Hip Line
The Back Neckline

• Calculate the Back Neck Width to find the Neck Point
• To do this divide the Bust measurement by 8, add 3cm and halve the result for the
Back Neck Width. For a Bust 88cm, the Back Neck Width is 7cm
• Another method for finding the Back Neck Width is to divide the Neck Size by 5
• Measure along the Nape line and square up 2cm. Label it the Back Neck Point
• Draw in a shallow Back Neckline curve flattening out at Centre Back
CB Top Line
Back Neck Point
2cm
Nape Line
7cm

Free Support Material for this Series
• My Complete Table of Average Measurements
• The Imperial Measure Version
• Guides for Taking Measurements and everything else to do with Sewing Pattern
Drafting from angelakane.com
CB Top Line NP CF
NP
SP
SP
Bust Line UP
True Bust Line

X
BACK FRONT
BODICE BODICE
Waist Line
Hip Line
to continue
The Back Shoulder Line
• Measure 3cm down from the Nape Line
• Square across a guide line of about 25cm and label it the Shoulder Line
CB Top Line
NP
Nape Line
3cm
Shoulder Line
25cm or so
Bust Line

The Across Back Line
• Find the mid point between Shoulder Line and Bust Line
• Square across a guide line and label it the Back Line
• Measure along Back Line, half the Back Width plus 0.5cm
• From this point, square down to the bust line and up to the shoulder line
• This is the Armhole Guide Line
CB Top Line
Nape Line
Shoulder Line
Armhole
8.75cm Guide Line
Back Line 18cm
8.75cm
Bust Line
The Back Underarm Point

• Where this line meets the Bust Line, extend the line out 5cm and label Back
Underarm Point
• At the angle made by the Armhole Guide and the Bust Line draw a guide line at 45º
and measure along 3cm a little less for small sizes and up to 4cm for larger sizes
CB Top Line
Nape Line
Shoulder Line
Armhole
Guide Line
Back Line
45°
Angle
m
3c
Bust Line
Underarm Point
5cm

The Back Shoulder Point
• From the Back Neck Point draw a lne equal to the Shoulder Length measurement
plus 1cm to wherever it meets the Shoulder Line
CB Top Line
Neck 13.5
Nape Line Point
cm
Shoulder Line
Shoulder
Point
Back Line
Bust Line
Underarm
Point
Complete the Back Armhole

• Draw a curved line from the Shoulder Point to the Underarm Point flattening
through the point on the Back Line for about 3 cm
CB Top Line
Nape Line
Shoulder Point
Shoulder Line
Connect armhole
points with a
smooth curve
Back Line
Flatten the line
here for about 3cm
Underarm Point
Bust Line

The Shoulder Dart Position
• Find the middle of the Shoulder and draw a vertical guide line down 6cm and
measure 1cm to the left
• Use this as the end point of the shoulder dart
• Draw a line back up to the shoulder mid point. This is the dart centre line
CB Top Line
Mid point
Shoulder
Point
Centre line 6cm

of dart
1cm
The Shoulder Dart

• Draw the dart lines up to the shoulder seam 0.5cm either side of the mid point of
the shoulder, giving you a 1cm wide Shoulder Dart
Neck
Point
1cm Wide Dart
Shoulder
Point

Back Hip Point
• Measure across from CB along the Hip Line ¼ of the Hip measurement and label
Back Hip Point
CB CF
Waist Line
Hip Line
23.5cm Hip Point
The Provisional Side Seam

• Join the Back Under Arm Point to the Back Hip Point with a straight guide line
• We will complete the waistline shaping later
CB Top Line CF
Nape Line
Shoulder Line Shoulder Point
Back Line
Bust Line Underarm Point
Join UP to HP for
a side seam with
no waist shaping
Waist Line
Hip Line
Hip Point

Pattern Cutting - The New Series -Part 2
The Bodice Front
• The Bodice Front is drafted side by side with the Back and shares important
construction lines
CB Top Line NP CF
NP
SP
SP
Bust Line UP
True Bust Line

X
BACK FRONT
BODICE BODICE
Waist Line
Hip Line
The Front Neckline

• From the Centre Front Line measure the Neck Width along the Top Line
• This is again the Bust measurement divided by 8, plus 3cm and then halved but
this time we deduct 0.5cm
• Making the Front Neck Width 0.5cm less than the back neck width helps the
neckline to sit correctly
• Label this point the Front Neck Point
• From the Top Line measure down the CF 7.5cm and label Base of Neck Point
• This measurement can be 7cm for smaller sizes or up to 8.5cm for larger sizes
Top Line 6.5cm Centre

Front
Front Neck Point
7.5cm
Base of Neck

The Neck Curve
• Square down from Neck Point and across from Base of Neck and then draw a guide
line of 45º from the angle and mark off 3cm
• Draw the neckline curve through the points
6.5cm CF
Front Neck
Point
7.5cm
45°
m
3c
Base of Neck
The Front Shoulder

• For all sizes, measure along the Top Line 16.5cm from Centre Front and square
down 4.5cm
• Draw the Shoulder from the Front Neck point through the point just drafted and
extend beyond. This is a provisional shoulder seam
16.5 cm NP CF
4.5 cm
Draw a line from

Neck Point through
this point and beyond

The Bust Dart Position
• Measure out from the Centre Front ¼ Chest Width and draw a guide line parallel to
CF up to meet the Shoulder seam and down to 2.5cm below the Bust Line
• This will be the point of the bust dart
Top Line NP CF
Dart guide line
Bust Line 8.25 cm
2.5 cm
Bust Dart Point
The Bust Dart

• Where this line meets the shoulder measure 2cm to the left along the shoulder
• Mark this point and draw a dart line from there to the Bust Dart Point
• Measure a dart width of 6cm along the shoulder and draw the other dart line to
meet the bust dart point
Top Line 2 cm NP CF
6 cm
Bust Line
Bust Dart Point

Bust Dart Variations
• Dart width varies from 5.5cm in small sizes and up to 10cm for the larger sizes but
also depends on the fullness of the bust
• I am drafting for a small bosom
• Refer to my Table of Average Measurements
• It is FREE and is available on my site - Check the Info Button
• This is a variation that you may need to fine tune at a later stage
Top Line NP
**Dart width will

vary from between
5.5cm - 10cm
depending on
bust fullness
The Front Shoulder Point

• With the dart drawn in, mark off the shoulder measurement plus the dart width to
find the Front Shoulder Point
Top Line NP CF
+ 6cm
0cm
12.5 6cm
Shoulder
Point
Add dart width to

shoulder length

The Chest Line
• Measure the distance from the Base of the Neck to the Bust Line
• Divide this by 3 and measure that distance up from the Bust Line
• Square across and label it the Chest Line
NP CF
Measure from
Base of Neck
to Bust Line
15.5 cm
Chest Line
Divide by 3 and measure 5.2 cm
up from Bust Line
The Front Chest Point

• Measure along the Chest Line ½ x Chest Width plus the width of the dart at this
level and mark the point as the Front Chest Point
NP CF
SP
Width of Dart
at Chest Level
Chest Point 2cm
18.5 cm 1/2 Chest +

Width of Dart
Bust Line

The Front Underarm Point
• Calculate half the bust measurement plus 5cm. Subtract the bust measurement
already drafted on the Back
• Use the result to measure along the Front Bust Line from CF and label the Front
Underarm Point
• This will give you 10cm for bust ease overall. This can be increased or reduced just
a little for xLarge and xSmall sizes respectively. Sleeveless garments may require
less ease CB Top Line NP CF
SP
CP
Front
Underarm
Point
23cm 26cm
The measurement of 23cm Half Bust + 5cm = 49cm

already drafted Subtract the Back Bust of
23cm. 49cm - 23cm = 26cm
Plot the Armhole Curve

• Draw a guide line joining Front Shoulder Point and Front Chest Point. Halfway
along, square out a line 1cm in length towards CF. This is a guide for the armhole
curve
• Square down from the Front Chest Point to the Bust Line. Draw a 45º line from the
angle
• Mark a point 1.5cm along or up to 2.5cm for larger sizes. This is a guide for the
lower part of the armhole curve
NP CF
Measure 1 cm
from guide line
at the mid point
SP
1 cm
Guide Lines for
the armhole CP
curve Chest Line
45°
1.5 cm
UP Bust Line
Measure 1.5 cm
along from angle

Draw the armhole curve
• Join all points with a smooth curving line
• Take the curve a little below the Bust Line before it joins the Under Arm Point
NP CF
SP
Join the draft-
ing points with
a smooth
curved line
CP Chest
Line
Bust
UP Line
Take the curve
below the Bust
Line
Find the Hip Point

• Calculate ¼ hip measurement plus 3cm and use this to find the Front Hip Point
measured from CF along the Hip Line
• Join Front Underarm Point and Front Hip Point with a straight guide line for the
provisional side seam
CP
Bust Line UP
Draw in the side

seam guide line Measure from
CF ¼ hip + 3cm
Waist Line
Back and Front Hip

Point should meet
Hip Line 26.5cm

Hip Point

The True Bust Line
• Draw the True Bust Line 4cm below the Bust Line and square across to CB and
Mark on it the Bust Point inline with the Bust Dart
Top Line NP CF
Bust Line UP
True Bust Line 4cm

X
True Bust Line

Bust Point
Waist Line
• Finishing the block is next in Part 3

• Check out my other videos
• If you like this tutorial format please subscribe for more of the same
• Check out angelakane.com/pattern-cutting for FREE support material including :
• My Table of Average Measurements
• The Imperial Measure version of this tutorial
• and much more to help you with pattern cutting and flat pattern drafting

Pattern Cutting - The New Series - Part 3
• In Part 1 we drafted the Back Bodice

• Part 2 the Front Bodice
• In the last episode we will finalise the Waist Shaping
• Cut out and true the pattern
• Transfer to manilla card with all the balance marks
Basic Waist Shaping

• Lower the Front Waist Line by 1.5cm or up to 2.5cm in larger sizes
• Draw in the new waistline
• Reduce at the Side seams by 2cm on the back
• and by 1.5cm on the front.
• Create gently curving side seams
• The front side seam will curve out a little at the true bust level
Bust Line UP
True Bust Line

X
Inward curve A slight ‘S’
for the back shaped curve
side seam for the front
Waist Line
side seam
2cm 1.5cm
Curving over Lower
the hips for waist by
front and back 1.5cm

Waist Dart Placement
• Along the new waist line, draw dart guide lines that have their centre on the new
waist line
• Place them at ¼ X Chest Width from CF and ¼ X Back Width from CB
• The back dart will measure about 30cm and the front dart about 25cm
Bust Line UP
True Bust Line

X
Back dart ¼ Front dart ¼
8.75cm
Back Width Chest Width
8.25cm
from CB from CF
Waist Line
30cm
25cm
Waist Darts
• Create the darts using the guide lines
• The Front Dart is 3cm wide at the waistline and the Back Dart is 2cm wide
• Both are centred on the dart guide line
Bust Line UP
True Bust Line

X
Back dart Front dart
2cm wide 3cm wide
Waist Line
2cm
3cm

Finish the Blocks
• This is the draft so far
CB Top Line NP CF
NP
SP
SP
Bust Line UP
True Bust Line

X
Waist Line
Hip Line
Trace Off and Cut Out

• Trace the blocks off on to a new sheet of paper
• Cut out the two blocks
• We will transfer both darts away from the shoulder seams to true up the shoulder
seam line
• Leave an extra 2cm above both shoulder seams. This will be trimmed away later
• Transfer the Bust Dart to the side seam by slashing from 5cm or more, below the
Front Underarm Point to just short of the Bust Point
• Also carefully snip down from the end of the bust dart to just short of the bust
point, so that the pieces are still just about joined
• To transfer the back shoulder dart, slash from the back armhole to just short of the
shoulder dart point
Leave extra paper at the shoulder
Slash shoulder Slash bust dart

dart to just short to just short of
of bust point bust point
X
Slash to just short
of bust point to
create a new dart

Rotate to Transfer
• Rotate the sections around the dart points as shown to close the darts and tape to
secure
Rotate these sections, around the
dart point, to close dart
Tape in place
NP
NP
Shoulder line needs
to be corrected
SP
SP
There will be a
little overlap
here
Correct Seams
• Rule across from Neck Point to Shoulder Point on both the Back and Front blocks
• Cut straight across to correct the shoulder seams
Rule and cut, straight across between

Neck Point to Shoulder Point
NP NP
SP
SP

Seams Aligned
• The seams are now aligned
• Next we will check that the armhole and neckline curves flow smoothly from back
to front
New Shoulder angle
NP NP
SP
SP
Correct Curves
• Line up the two blocks along shoulder seam and check that the neckline forms a
smooth curve

Merge Curves
• Redraw where necessary
• Shoulder seams must be the same length
Adjust here
This curve is good
Transfer Darts
• Return both darts to their original position

Line Up Side Seams
• Rotate the pieces to line up the side seams
• Redraw lines to correct armhole curve if necessary
Trace on to Card
• Add balance marks as indicated
• Trace the blocks on to card and use a notch tool to mark balance marks
X
X
X
X
X
X X
XX

The Finished Block
• Balance marks are essential for matching seams and can be placed on
construction lines and wherever else you think it is appropriate
• Mark the main construction lines
• Most importantly label the block with a title, the size, date and any other useful
notes
X
FRONT BODICE FRONT BODICE
SIZE SIZE
DATE DATE
NOTES NOTES
• If you like this tutorial format please Subscribe for more of the same
• Check out angelakane.com/pattern-cutting for FREE Support Material including:
• My Table of Average Measurements
• The Imperial Measure version of this series
• And more to help you with pattern cutting and flat pattern drafting
Thank you for following this series

Pattern Cutting

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CB Top Line NP CF

True Bust Line

I am using these measurements for this draft

angelakane.com Copyright © Angela Kane 2005-2019 All rights reserved Page 1

The Bodice Back

True Bust Line

angelakane.com Copyright © Angela Kane 2005-2019 All rights reserved Page 2

The Waist Line

39cm - Back Waist

angelakane.com Copyright © Angela Kane 2005-2019 All rights reserved Page 3

The Back Neckline

angelakane.com Copyright © Angela Kane 2005-2019 All rights reserved Page 4

True Bust Line

angelakane.com Copyright © Angela Kane 2005-2019 All rights reserved Page 5

Back Line 18cm

The Back Underarm Point

angelakane.com Copyright © Angela Kane 2005-2019 All rights reserved Page 6

Complete the Back Armhole

angelakane.com Copyright © Angela Kane 2005-2019 All rights reserved Page 7

Centre line 6cm

The Shoulder Dart

angelakane.com Copyright © Angela Kane 2005-2019 All rights reserved Page 8

The Provisional Side Seam

Bust Line Underarm Point

angelakane.com Copyright © Angela Kane 2005-2019 All rights reserved Page 9

True Bust Line

The Front Neckline

Top Line 6.5cm Centre

angelakane.com Copyright © Angela Kane 2005-2019 All rights reserved Page 10

The Front Shoulder

Draw a line from

angelakane.com Copyright © Angela Kane 2005-2019 All rights reserved Page 11

Dart guide line

Bust Line 8.25 cm

Bust Dart Point

The Bust Dart

Bust Dart Point

angelakane.com Copyright © Angela Kane 2005-2019 All rights reserved Page 12

**Dart width will

The Front Shoulder Point

Add dart width to

angelakane.com Copyright © Angela Kane 2005-2019 All rights reserved Page 13

The Front Chest Point

Chest Point 2cm

18.5 cm 1/2 Chest +

angelakane.com Copyright © Angela Kane 2005-2019 All rights reserved Page 14

The measurement of 23cm Half Bust + 5cm = 49cm

Plot the Armhole Curve

angelakane.com Copyright © Angela Kane 2005-2019 All rights reserved Page 15

Find the Hip Point

Draw in the side

Back and Front Hip

Hip Line 26.5cm

angelakane.com Copyright © Angela Kane 2005-2019 All rights reserved Page 16

True Bust Line 4cm

True Bust Line

• Finishing the block is next in Part 3

angelakane.com Copyright © Angela Kane 2005-2019 All rights reserved Page 17

• In Part 1 we drafted the Back Bodice

Basic Waist Shaping

True Bust Line

angelakane.com Copyright © Angela Kane 2005-2019 All rights reserved Page 18

True Bust Line

True Bust Line