©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Puerto Rico

San Juan
p46

North Coast
p192
Central El Yunque & Culebra
Mountains East Coast & Vieques
West Coast p92
p166 p210 p112
Ponce &
South Coast
p140

THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY

Ryan Ver Berkmoes, Luke Waterson

 PLAN ON THE ROAD
YOUR TRIP
Welcome to Puerto Rico. . . . 4 SAN JUAN. . . . . . . . . . 46 CULEBRA
Puerto Rico Map. . . . . . . . . 6 Around San Juan . . . . . . . 88 & VIEQUES. . . . . . . . . 112
Puerto Rico’s Top 17. . . . . . 8 Cataño & Bayamón. . . . . . 88 Culebra. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 113
Piñones . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 89 Vieques . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 124
Need to Know. . . . . . . . . . 16
Loíza Aldea . . . . . . . . . . . . . 90
First Time Puerto Rico. . . 18
PONCE & SOUTH
If You Like…. . . . . . . . . . . . 20 COAST . . . . . . . . . . . . 140
EL YUNQUE &
Month by Month. . . . . . . . 23 EAST COAST. . . . . . . . 92 Ponce. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 141
Itineraries . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26 El Yunque. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 93 Around Ponce. . . . . . . . . 152
Eat & Drink Luquillo & Around . . . . . . . 99 East of Ponce . . . . . . . . . 153
Like a Local. . . . . . . . . . . . 32 Fajardo & Around. . . . . . . . 103 Arroyo. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 153
Puerto Rico Outdoors. . . 36 Naguabo & Around . . . . . . 108 Guayama & Pozuelo. . . . . 154
Travel with Children. . . . . 41 Yabucoa & Around. . . . . . . 110 Bahía de Jobos. . . . . . . . . . 155

Regions at a Glance. . . . . 43
DANITA DELIMONT /GETTY IMAGES ©

ERIC PURCELL /GETTY IMAGES ©

HACIENDA BUENA VISTA

P153
BRYAN MULLENNIX /GETTY IMAGES ©

EL MORRO P47

Playa Salinas. . . . . . . . . . . . 156
Coamo. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 157
West of Ponce. . . . . . . . . 158
Yauco & Around . . . . . . . . . 158
Guánica & Around. . . . . . . 159
La Parguera. . . . . . . . . . . . . 162
WEST COAST. . . . . . . 166
Rincón . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 167
Mayagüez. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 177
Cabo Rojo Area. . . . . . . . . 180
San Germán . . . . . . . . . . . . 187
Isla Mona. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 190
MACAW
Contents
UNDERSTAND
NORTH COAST. . . . . 192 Puerto Rico Today . . . . . 226
Dorado. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 193 History. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 228
Manatí & Around . . . . . . . . 196 Life in Puerto Rico. . . . . 238
Arecibo & Around. . . . . . . . 197
The Sounds of
Lago Guajataca. . . . . . . . . . 201 Puerto Rico. . . . . . . . . . . 243
Bosque Estatal Arts in Puerto Rico . . . . 248
de Guajataca. . . . . . . . . . . . 201
Puerto Rico’s
Isabela &
Landscapes. . . . . . . . . . . 252
Aguadilla Area. . . . . . . . . . 202
Wildlife of
Puerto Rico. . . . . . . . . . . 256
CENTRAL
MOUNTAINS. . . . . . . 210
Caguas. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 211
Bosque Estatal
de Carite . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 213 SURVIVAL
Aibonito & Around. . . . . . . 214 GUIDE
Barranquitas
& Around. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 216
Reserva Forestal Directory A–Z. . . . . . . . . 260
Toro Negro. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 219 Transportation . . . . . . . . 267
Jayuya . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 221
Language. . . . . . . . . . . . . 271
Adjuntas & Around. . . . . . 222
Index. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 280
Bosque Estatal
de Guilarte. . . . . . . . . . . . . 223 Map Legend. . . . . . . . . . . 287
Maricao . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 223
SPECIAL FEATURES
First Time The Sounds of
Puerto Rico. . . . . . . . . . . . 18 Puerto Rico. . . . . . . . . . . 243
Eat & Drink Arts in Puerto Rico . . . . 248
Like a Local. . . . . . . . . . . . 32
Wildlife of
Puerto Rico Outdoors. . . 36 Puerto Rico. . . . . . . . . . . 256
 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
26

Itineraries
AT L A N T I C
San OCEAN
É
Juan É
•
# f
#
É

# Luquillo
•
É Culebra
É
•
#
÷ El Yunque
#
SONDA DE
VIEQUES

CARIBBEAN
SEA

3 S San Juan & Around

DAY

It’s easy to get caught up in San Juan, from lazy days spent exploring the wonders of
Old San Juan, to the urban beaches that include Isla Grande, and the edgy – and tasty –
wonders of Santurce. But there is plenty to see and do just outside the capital that will
give you a much broader picture of Puerto Rico’s diverse pleasures.
At the very least, join one of the sailing day trips out to Culebra, where you’ll get a
taste of funky island life and enjoy some sensational snorkeling.
Although you can take more day-time tours, rent a car and do a little freelance explor-
ing instead. Head up to the lush rainforest wonders of El Yunque. Driving Hwy 191,
you’ll climb ever higher into the misty peaks and you can pick your breaks for waterfalls
and nature hikes. Consider also stopping off at one of the adventure parks where you can
zip-line through the trees.
Spend the night at a mountain retreat before returning to San Juan via Luquillo,
with its natural wonders, beaches and great food stands.
 27

ATLA NTIC
OCEAN

Playa Mar
Chiquita San

PL AN YOUR TRIP I t i n e r a r i e s
Juan Loíza
Ù
# Dorado
•
# Aldea
É É •
# É É •
#
Observatorio •
# Ù
# Playa Luquillo
de Arecibo
É ÷ El Yunque
#
Hacienda Gripiñas •
#
Reserva

É
÷ Forestal
# Guavate
Toro Negro •
#
É
É
É

•
#
Ponce •
# Yabucoa

CARIBBEAN
SEA

1 K Essential Puerto Rico

WEE

Touch down in San Juan and get to the beaches, exploring Isla Verde, Condado and
Ocean Park. Spend the next day weaving through the Unesco treasures of Old San Juan
and posing by the ramparts of El Morro. Finish up with an evening among the rollicking
scene of Santurce’s bars and restaurants.
Start early on day three and go west, stopping first at Dorado, where you can take in
some world-class golf or hide out at the beach at Punta Salinas.
Continue west and stop to watch the waves explode over the reefs at Playa Mar Chiq-
uita, where you can picnic while enjoying the aquatic drama. Turn southwest, winding
up the mountain road to the Observatorio de Arecibo. If you’re extraordinarily lucky,
this might be the day this mountain-sized icon detects life on another planet. Bunk
nearby at the restored plantation of Hacienda Gripiñas.
Next morning, take full advantage of being in coffee country before finding your way
along the Ruta Panorámica, heading up toward Puerto Rico’s tallest peak in the Reser-
va Forestal Toro Negro. Come off your high and make your way to historic Ponce to
dine and sleep. The next day start slow and enjoy the city’s excellent museums, then head
east to sample smoky pork at one of the famed roadside lechoneras (eateries specializing
in suckling pig) in Guavate. Continue east to sleep at a beach house in Yabucoa. The
cool, green interior of El Yunque and its magical rainforest starts day six, which fin-
ishes on the white sands of Playa Luquillo. At night, glide across the glowing waters of
the bioluminescent bay at Laguna Grande.
Before returning to San Juan, have a meal from one of the famous friquitines (beach
kiosks) at Playa Luquillo. Drive back via Loíza Aldea, where you can buy a vejigante
(traditional horned mask), before passing the evening wandering the back streets of Old
San Juan and stopping for a drink where you can watch locals and other visitors doing
just the same.
28

ATLANTIC
OCEAN
PL AN YOUR TRIP I t i n e r a r i e s

San Juan
•
#
É É É
# Observatorio
• Culebra
# Rincón
• É É
•
#
de Arecibo •
#
El Yunque ÷
# Fajardo
Ruta Panorámica
É

É
Ponce •
# É
÷
#
É

Bosque
Estatal de
Guánica

CARIBBEAN
SEA

2 KS The Grand Tour

WEE

Spend four days in San Juan and the surrounding areas, getting plenty of beach time
and making sure to see Old San Juan. Spend at least one night listening to live salsa and
taking in the dance-floor action at Nuyorican Café, the best live music club on the island.
Head to El Yunque for a day of hiking, then spend the night in Fajardo and experience
the wonder of the bioluminescent bay at Laguna Grande.
The next morning head east aboard the ferry for Culebra – the more intimate cousin
to Vieques. The next few days will go by too quickly, snorkeling and swimming at some
of the best beaches in the world, and taking a charter trip off to the abandoned white-
sand paradise of Isla Culebrita.
Now that your batteries are fully recharged, it’s time to do some exploring. Make for
the mainland and follow the quiet road past the sleepy sugar towns of the south coast
toward Ponce. Spend a couple of days exploring the colonial buildings and excellent
food in the so-called ‘Pearl of the South.’ You can visit La Guancha Paseo Tablado, Cen-
tro Ceremonial Indígena de Tibes or make a short detour up the mountain on the Ruta
Panorámica to do some hiking and sip the island’s famous coffee.
Definitely allow one day (preferably with an early morning start so you can be done by
mid-afternoon when the sun is at its hottest) for the rugged, bone-dry forest of Bosque
Estatal de Guánica. After hiking, drive scenic Rte 333 along the south coast and stop
to swim at tiny mangrove-enclosed beaches and spend the night in an isolated resort.
You can either spend the day swimming the turquoise water of Playa Santa or head
straight to the final destination, Rincón. The last few days of the trip will be spent surf-
ing (or taking lessons) on perfect waves and soaking up the island’s best sunsets with
an icy rum drink in hand. Complete the circuit, breaking up the drive with a stop at the
Observatorio de Arecibo, before arriving back in San Juan for your final evening, din-
ing in style in Old San Juan or Santurce.
 29

AT L A N T I C
San OCEAN
Juan
•
# É

–
#
É

PL AN YOUR TRIP I t i n e r a r i e s
Culebra
É •
#

É
SONDA DE
VIEQUES

–
#
–
#
É Vieques
# Isabel Segunda
•
É É •
# South Coast
Esperanza •
#
Beaches

CARIBBEAN
SEA

1A0YS Escape to Culebra & Vieques

D

After time in the capital of San Juan, hightail it out of town for your island break. A trip
to the islands of Culebra and Vieques displays Puerto Rico in its best light: perfect sand,
laid-back atmosphere and ramshackle nightlife. Take a scenic flight to leave the capital:
it’s affordable and saves you the hassle and expense of getting to the ferries at Fajardo,
plus the daredevil approach to Culebra rivals the best thrill ride.
Start in Culebra, which doesn’t have much in the way of fancy resorts and clubs;
the focus here is on the world-class beaches, reef snorkeling and wildlife refuges. With
few cars on the island and long, deserted stretches of sand, Culebra offers the serenity
that can be all too rare on the crowded Puerto Rican mainland. Visitors can soak in the
expansive views of the ocean, breathe the fresh island air and explore beaches, from the
renowned Playa Flamenco to the remote and enticing Playa Zoni. Save time for the beau-
tiful snorkeling at Luis Peña Marine Preserve.
After dark, the little harbor at Dewey comes alive with affable expats whose love of
karaoke crooning is only rivaled by their thirst for cold cans of Medalla.
Next up is surprising Vieques, the larger island just southwest of Culebra. You can
take a ferry back to the mainland and another out to Vieques, but flying is vastly quicker
and much more fun. Once you touch down in Isabel Segunda, hang around this atmos-
pheric town for a bit before heading south to Esperanza, the perfect place to savor the
slow pace of the tropics while enjoying some fine places to stay, eat and drink. You may
not want to leave. Spend the next few days exploring the wealth of south coast beaches
in the Vieques National Wildlife Refuge. You will be hard-pressed to choose your favorite
as you marvel at small coves and deep bays and try in vain to find a crowd.
Save one night for the magically glowing waters of the Bioluminescent Bay, where you
can paddle out in a quiet kayak or glide silently in an electric boat, before flying back to
San Juan.
30

Off the Beaten Track: Puerto Rico

ADJUNTAS JAYUYA
This cool subtropical jungle haven in Visit the surreal Museo del Cemí in
PL AN YOUR TRIP O F F T H E B EATEN TRAC K

the hills is rich with bananas, coffee
and citrus fruits. (p222)
this isolated town, located in a
steep-sided valley overlooked by
three of the island’s highest peaks, a
few kilometers north of the Ruta
Panorámica. (p221)

SAN GERMÁN
The island’s second-oldest city ATLANTIC
(founded 1511) is well preserved and OCEAN
includes one of the oldest surviving
churches in the Americas. (p187)

Isabela •
# Hatillo
#
• Arecibo Vega
•
# Barceloneta Baja
#
• •
#
Aguadilla •
# #
•
Manatí

Rincón •
# # San
• # Ciales
•
Sebastián
#
•
Lares #
Utuado •
•
#
Mayagüez • Barranquitas
#
# Maricao
• JAYUYA Reserva #
•
#
•
Forestal
Toro Negro
#
• ADJUNTAS
Sabana
SAN GERMÁN •
# # Grande
• COAMO •
#
Yauco• Guayanilla
Boquerón •
# #
#
•
Ponce
•
# Santa
LA PARGUERA Bosque Isabel
•
# Estatal de
#
• #
•
REFUGIO Guánica Guánica Cayo
•
#
Salinas
NACIONAL Berberia Cayos de
Ratónes
CABO ROJO Isla Caja
de Muertos

REFUGIO NACIONAL
CABO ROJO
The southernmost extent of Puerto
Rico is crowned by its iconic Los
Morrillos Lighthouse; nearby is the
beautiful beach of Playa Santa.
(p186)
LA PARGUERA
Discover this low-key and funky
seaside town, with its maze of
mangrove canals running to the open
ocean, which has a 40ft diving wall.
(p162)
COAMO
The namesake thermal baths here are
linked to Ponce de León’s quest for
the fountain of youth. (p157)
 31
e
# 0
0
20 km
10 miles

BOSQUE ESTATAL
DE CARITE

PL AN YOUR TRIP O F F T H E B EATEN TRAC K

Enjoy beautiful hiking and swim in icy
pools that are almost empty for much
of the year. On your way, grab lunch
from one of the lechoneras along the
highway near Guavate. (p213)

HWY 3 SOUTH OF
PLAYA HÚCARES
Enjoy low-key beaches, small villages
and great eats on this drive that's well
Old San off the main road. (p108)
Juan •# San Juan
#•
Campanilla
•
# Río
Carolina Cayo
Grande Luquillo Icacos
Bayamón •
# •
# •
# •
# •
# Cayo
Guaynabo
•
# Canóvanas Fajardo Isla Norte
•
# Palominos Culebra
El Yunque Cayo Luis Isla
Peña Culebrita
Isla Piñeros
•
#
Caguas •
#Juncos
# Naguabo
• Sonda de Vieques
# Playa Húcares
•
HWY 181 Humacao
AIBONITO •
# HWY 3 SOUTH OF
•
# Guavate Vieques
•
# PLAYA HÚCARES
BOSQUE ESTATAL
DE CARITE •
#
Patillas
Yabucoa HWY 181
Guayama •
# •
#
Maunabo
•
# Journey back a few decades in time
•
#
Arroyo as this narrow road corkscrews
through the lush mountains on the
Cayos
de Barca south side of El Yunque to the coast.
(p111)

Caribbean
Sea

AIBONITO
Try to see both coasts of the island
from the Mirador La Piedra Degetau
before taking in the extraordinary
spectacle of Puerto Rico’s deepest
canyon, the Cañón de San Cristóbal.
(p214)
 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

OUR STORY
A beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of
adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed
for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to
Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but
inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling
together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap.
Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.
Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London,
Melbourne, Oakland, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief
that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.

OUR WRITERS
Ryan Ver Berkmoes
Coordinating Author, San Juan, El Yunque & East Coast, Culebra & Vieques Ryan
first visited Puerto Rico in 2004. On his visits since, he has criss-crossed the
islands, always wondering where he’ll next find the perfect beach. Recent thrills
included trying to find an authentic daiquiri (no blenders ever!) and getting lost
in El Morro. He succeeded in one but not the other. Off-island, Ryan splits his
time between the US and Europe and writes about travel and more at ryanver-
berkmoes.com. Follow him on Twitter via @ryanvb.
Read more about Ryan at:
lonelyplanet.com/thorntree/profiles/ryanverberkmoes
Luke Waterson
Ponce & South Coast, West Coast, North Coast, Central Mountains Whether it’s
the spontaneous street parties, the sun-kissed spirit of revolution or the wicked
coffee, Luke and Latin America are in love. Having authored Lonely Planet guide-
books from Cuba to Peru, he relished tracking down the Latino soul of the USA’s
Caribbean outpost (finding lots of street parties, revolution and coffee). Hiking
in the central mountains and caffeine-refuelling at hidden haciendas were his
top experiences this time round. (Well, the cold box of beer with the off-duty marines on that idyl-
lic cay wasn’t bad.) Luke lives in Slovakia; examples of his work can be found on his blog at http://
englishmaninslovakia.com.
Read more about Luke at:
lonelyplanet.com/thorntree/profiles/lukewaterson

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