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Urban Redevelopment Trauma: The Story of a Dubai Neighbourhood

Article  in  Built Environment · October 2014


DOI: 10.2148/benv.40.3.357

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URBAN REDEVELOPMENT TRAUMA: THE STORY OF A DUBAI NEIGHBOURHOOD

Urban Redevelopment Trauma:


The Story of a Dubai Neighbourhood
KHALED ALAWADI

This article tells the story of the transformation, partial demise, and unclear fate of
a Dubai neighbourhood. Al-Satwa, a traditionally designed Dubai neighbourhood,
demonstrates a kind of urban violence that is under-theorized in urban studies
literature: the disruption caused by top-down redevelopment. This article describes
two kinds of violence that have characterized redevelopment efforts in Al-Satwa:
displacement of residents and destruction of cultural fabrics and traditional
neighbourhood lifestyles. The article draws on several kinds of government and
historical documents, field observation, and interviews with thirty-five Al-Satwa
residents to describe how Dubai’s post-2008 redevelopment strategy enacted these
kinds of violence on the Al-Satwa neighbourhood. Findings reveal that Dubai’s post-
2008 planning acts purposefully destroyed many traditional neighbourhoods in
order to expand Dubai’s culture of excess and superlative architecture. I show how
these actions affect the living conditions of Al-Satwa’s low-income workers, who are
strongly attached to their modest environment.

Urban environments are being transformed of expatriates. According to the World Bank,
and developed at an enormous pace and scale, the population of the UAE is today around
which often precludes forethought and jus- 9.2 million. Another study by a Kuwaiti think
tification. In Dubai, for example, numerous tank puts the UAE’s population at 8.5 million,
mega-scale developments were built in record with expatriates making up 84 per cent of
time without integration into the existing the population (Al Qassemi, 2013). Dubai is
urban fabric. In fact, examining Dubai‘s the UAE’s most developed and urbanized
urban growth is simultaneously astonishing city and claims the nation’s largest number
and frustrating. Dubai has urbanized and of expatriates. Figures for 2010 indicated
grown rapidly. With this massive growth that Dubai’s population included 183,600
and consolidation of mega-scale urbanism, UAE nationals; 1,195,300 million resident
the size of the working class has skyrocketed, expatriates; and 536,100 foreign workers
leading to massive socio-cultural transforma- (Dubai Municipality, 2011). As the immigrant
tion and challenges, especially in Dubai’s population has grown, scholars have raised
central districts. questions about the size of its working-class
Since its founding, Dubai has drawn a population, whose members live in the city’s
variety of immigrants, especially from Persia, old districts and work in its service and retail
the Indian Sub-Continent, and the Philippines sectors. Many of them have left their spouses
(Kazim, 2000). According to Al Qassemi and families in their home countries to seek
(2013), Emiratis are a ‘shrinking minority’ work in Dubai to improve their family’s
whose national identity and heritage are living standards (Elsheshtawy, 2008).
radically vulnerable due to the large number This paper presents a case study of

BUILT  ENVIRONMENT   VOL  40   NO  3 349
URBAN VIOLENCE

Al-Satwa, a central Dubai neighbourhood that the indigenous population. In the mid-1990s,
has experienced acute development pressures the migration of local families to suburban
and cultural and urban transformation over areas enabled the working class to take con-
the past two decades. Al-Satwa does not trol of the area, and the most recent figures
actually constitute a site of political instability indicate that this district houses around
where violent encounters take place, but 39,488 low-income workers (RTA, 2013). In
more significantly, it demonstrates multiple 2007, the entire area was allocated to a semi-
other types of urban violence that have government firm for the purpose of trans
been under-theorized. These types of urban forming it into a luxury district called
violence include destruction and removal of ‘Jumeirah Gardens’. The firm compensated
traditional and dense urban neighbourhoods, local owners and started the process of
displacement of residents, and disruption demolition. In 2008, after razing a huge
of much-valued living environment and tract of the eastern section of Al-Satwa, the
residents’ sense of satisfaction and security. firm halted the project due to the recession.
This case represents a shift in Dubai’s Assigned
approach to planning: while the vast majority The current urban structure of Al-Satwa
of pre-2008 developments were planned is composed of three fabrics: a retail and
on vacant, unpopulated land, Al-Satwa is residential corridor and the areas to the
Dubai’s first attempt to raze traditional urban east and west of this corridor (see figure 1).
neighbourhoods. Meanwhile, concerted The dynamic retail and residential corridor
attempts by public-private firms to remove includes apartment buildings and an eclectic
and replace older neighbourhoods are taking array of 2,206 retail stores at the street level
place throughout Dubai, especially in core (Dubai Municipality Records, 2014). The
areas. This case, therefore, represents one area to the east of the strip is close to Dubai’s
model of urban rupture in Dubai. new downtown corridor, where numerous
Al-Satwa, one of Dubai’s oldest urban neigh- high-rises line up. The firm razed most
bourhoods, is located in a prime location, con- of this eastern part in 2008, and today, it
tiguous to the new downtown area. From predominantly accommodates low-income
the late 1960s to the early 1990s, it housed male workers, the majority of whom are from

Figure 1. Aerial photo of


Al-Satwa showing its urban
fabric and context. The eastern
section is largely vacant.
(Photo: Courtesy of RTA)

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URBAN REDEVELOPMENT TRAUMA: THE STORY OF A DUBAI NEIGHBOURHOOD

the Indian subcontinent. The area west of the top-down planning can cause, and I explain
retail strip primarily houses low-income male how Dubai’s redevelopment agenda can be
and female workers from the Philippines. understood to constitute urban violence.
One zone within this area is popularly known I then provide a background section on
as ‘Manila’; its official name is Al Hudaiba Al-Satwa. I trace the process by which a
Street (Elsheshtawy, 2008; Nelson, 2010). A previously family-based neighbourhood became
dwindling native population and middle- a home to labourers and other low-paid
income foreigner families are scattered workers. In particular, I discuss Al-Satwa’s
among the three urban fabrics of Al-Satwa. urban dynamics, changing population, migra-
Exact demographic information is limited tion of families, housing conditions, and
due to the frequent migration of residents eventual partial demise. The article also
and lack of precise census data in Dubai. draws on original field observation and
In this paper I ask: formal and informal interviews to describe
workers’ recent socio-cultural lives, sense
 What does the case of Al-Satwa tell us of satisfaction, and connection to the site. I
about urban violence? then conceptualize different patterns of urban
violence that the case of Al-Satwa embodies.
 How can the case of Al-Satwa contribute Ultimately, I argue that the removal of the
to scholarly conceptualizations of urban remaining fabric of Al-Satwa constitutes a
violence? type of urban violence that (1) demolishes a
distinctive city fabric; (2) displaces residents
This study tells the story of an interrupted and employees; and (3) distresses the lives of
demolition-and-redevelopment project that thousands of low-income workers. The article
has prioritized serving the economic elite to ends with a discussion of the possibility of
the exclusion of other values, such as histori- preserving and retrofitting this area.
cal and cultural preservation and serving a
diverse population. This project has enacted
Redevelopment as Urban Violence
several forms of violence on the neighbour-
hood: first, it partially demolished a valuable Dubai appears frequently in cities and urban
historical area; second, the threatened-but- studies literature, which typically focus
postponed dislocation of current residents on either its glamorous and monumental
would disrupt and possibly destroy valued approach to urban design and planning or
cultural and economic resources for an under- its poorly regulated growth. The year 2008
privileged portion of the population; and represented a shift in Dubai’s development
third, the postponement, surprise, and non- history. The city systematically transformed its
participatory nature of the process creates an development practices from the optimization of
atmosphere of insecurity that itself constitutes vacant land and the reclamation of Gulf water
a form of psychological violence. Thus, the to the removal of traditional and publicly
story of this neighbourhood provides a occupied land. This transformation could be
valuable reconceptualization of the urban called a ‘paradigm shift’ in Dubai’s history of
violence concept, one that offers valuable planning. As Hu (2013) asserts, the concept
new levels of understanding. of paradigm shift can mean many things,
This paper begins by discussing con- but in urban design it means a fundamental
nections between Dubai’s efforts to flatten change in the beliefs and thoughts that frame
inner-city neighbourhoods and US urban a community’s sense of its own interests
renewal programmes that have been which then serves as an example from which
described in planning literature. I discuss other cities to learn.
studies that acknowledge the violence that However, while Dubai’s shift towards

BUILT  ENVIRONMENT   VOL  40   NO  3 351
URBAN VIOLENCE

replacing old areas with contemporary mental weakness for monumentality’; it


ones represents a new frontier in its urban followed the American post-World War II
development methods, it does not meet approach to city building (Alawadi, 2011).
the strict interpretation of Kuhn’s (1970) Cohen (2013) agrees, arguing that everything
and Grade’s (2008) understanding of a in Dubai aspires to be the biggest and the
‘paradigm shift’ for several reasons. First, tallest. Third, US urban renewal projects dis-
the razing of traditional neighbourhoods connected many residents from their original
to make way for privatized monumental environments and erased a massive cultural
towers and artificial water bodies is a kind heritage (Brown et al., 2009). This repercussion
of violence that does not respect traditional is also observable in Dubai’s redevelopment
sites and existing city fabric. Second, this practices, which obliterated places of great
change displaces thousands of low-income cultural significance and dislocated hundreds
people and deprives them of their living of families and low-income workers (Nelson,
environment. Third, this shift is dominated 2010; Kannan, 2012, 2013).
by a private hegemonism and economic Fourth, the demise of traditional areas
interests which often discount public input in the United States destroyed many of
and interests. Driving out traditional and the things that make cities great, including
well-established neighbourhoods for merely diversity, permeability, vigorous streets,
economic and commercial reasons is a type social engagement, and choice (Jacobs, 1961;
of urban violence characterized by the Brown et al., 2009). In Dubai, the situation
insensitive occupation of land. All in all, these was the same. According to one observer,
accumulated private planning practices and Al-Satwa is a slice of Dubai’s heritage; its
intentions do not constitute a model for other demolition is a ‘sad loss as there is really very
cities to emulate. little of the old Dubai remaining’ (Nelson,
I argue that Dubai’s redevelopment 2010). Dubai’s old areas create a contrast with
initiatives share common traits with many the new areas that makes the city appealing,
projects from the urban renewal period of the and losing this urban asset diminishes variety
1950s and 1960s in the United States. First, in and choice. Jacobs (1961) believes that ‘cities
the United States, municipalities and business need old buildings so badly’; it is impossible
elites used their power to replace racially to have active and diverse neighbourhoods
diverse neighbourhoods and old city fabrics, and streets without them. Lynch (1960) also
especially in central areas (Brown et al., 2009). emphasizes the influence of traditional city
The situation in Dubai was no different: fabric on how people perceive, understand,
public-private agencies used their centralized and interact with their environment. He
authority either to develop virgin lands or found that the most ‘imageable’ cities are
tear up old and viable urban neighbourhoods regularly the ones with traditional fabric and
(Davidson, 2008; Record News, 2008; Sepas- cultural significance.
dar and Sibley, 2008). Second, the US urban Most often, post-World War II renewal
renewal programmes had a megastructural initiatives in the United States were large-
and ‘non-contextualized’ approach to urban- scale programmes aimed at developing city
ism (Greer, 1966 as cited in Macionis and cores in line with economic interests only
Parrillo, 2007; Brown et al., 2009). Similarly, (Greer, 1966; Lowe, 1968, as cited in Macionis
the morphology of Dubai’s urbanism is often and Parrillo, 2007). Macionis and Parrillo
described as gargantuan in scale (Machado (2007, p. 345) noted that ‘because of the deep
2006; Al-Masry, 2008). Douglas Kelbaugh, involvement of private banking and con-
Professor of Architecture and Urban Plan- struction industries, profit overshadowed any
ning and former Dean of the University of sense of social responsibility to help the poor’.
Michigan, argues that Dubai has a ‘monu- Similarly, investors in Dubai demonstrated a

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URBAN REDEVELOPMENT TRAUMA: THE STORY OF A DUBAI NEIGHBOURHOOD

pattern of pursuing profit rather than pro- agenda. Although the city was hit by the
viding a good living environment for a economic crisis of 2008, it did not abandon
variety of classes (Katodrytis, 2005; Doherty, its intense urban approach, an approach that
2008). In one interview, a government official does not respect existing communities, does
said, ‘I am afraid to say that the city gave too not emphasize small and fine-grain patterns,
much of freedom’ to private entities. They and does not promote a sense of equity,
were allowed to demolish and build whatever place, and community building. As Molavi’s
they want as long as they were ‘successful’, (2007, p. 103) notes, with ‘relaxed building
and ‘success’ was mainly measured by ‘profit and planning regulations’ and a market
generation and investment return’ (Alawadi, norm that favours selling and profit, Dubai
2011). continues to embody the motto, ‘what is good
Although there are numerous connections for the merchants is good for Dubai’.
between Dubai’s post-2008 redevelopment
strategies and postwar urban renewal pro-
The Background to Al-Satwa
jects in the United States, there is also a
significant dissimilarity between the two.
Satwa’s Urban Dynamics
In the United States, reactions to the 1960s
urban renewal projects opened a new chapter Where is it possible to find genuine street
in planning scholarship and practice, which food, a street bustling with people and
brought with it a true paradigm shift in action, a massive cultural heritage, products
city planning. Specific failures in the major and services with reasonable and negotiable
renewal interventions of the 1950s and early prices, a hub for mass transit and vitality,
1960s garnered serious criticism and led to and a Dubai that you could never experience
strong reactions from scholars and others. in a high-end shopping mall? The simple
Leading this reaction was Jane Jacobs, author answer is Al-Satwa. Al-Satwa reflects the
of the Death and Life of Great American Cities Dubai that exists behind the city’s glamorous
(1961). Instead of demolishing inner-city areas, image. This place embodies within its
Jacobs’s campaign incorporated mixed-use fabric the simplicity, diversity, and people
and infill projects that demonstrated sensi- that are necessary to animate any physical
tivity and respect towards existing communities. space and make it a desired destination.
Unlike the United States, Dubai has not Thousands of people visit Al-Satwa every
fundamentally modified its redevelopment day to work, entertain, and seek household

Figure 2. Al Satwa’s


commercial corridor, which
draws a variety of people,
including Emiratis, Filipinos,
Indians, and members of a
range of other nationalities.

BUILT  ENVIRONMENT   VOL  40   NO  3 353
URBAN VIOLENCE

necessities. Every day of the week, Satwa’s account for this demographic transition.
commercial corridor and adjoining streets are First, the mid-1990s saw a boom in the area’s
full of human animation: people hawking, construction, service, and retail sectors, which
shopping, eating, and congregating on the brought large groups of expatriates from the
sidewalks and even in the streets (see figure Indian subcontinent and the Philippines. As
2). Crowds gather in Al-Satwa to shop, the city did not have sufficient infrastructure
browse, discover, gawk, get a cheap haircut and appropriate housing to accommodate this
and a shave, tint a car window, buy Pakistani large demographic segment, many of the new
or Iranian bread, eat ethnic foods, buy fresh immigrants occupied the older national hous-
fruit and vegetables, get their spices ground, ing districts, such as Al-Satwa and Al-
get their shoes shined and repaired, or just Rashidiya, which had originally been design-
stand at a street corner and people-watch. ed for citizens in the late 1960s and 1970s.
Al-Satwa appears to be a centre of spon- Second, in the late 1990s, Dubai Municipality
taneity and social vitality as well as a diverse planned new subsidized residential areas
economic landscape. It is a generous place such as Al-Barsha and Al-Warqa with larger
where strangers and non-strangers gather, lots (150 x 100 ft [45 x 30 m]) for the native
mingle, and interact. It is also a place in which population. Accordingly, many citizens moved
a variety of ethnic groups meet with tolerance from their traditional neighbourhoods, such
and respect. According to Elsheshtawy (2011, as Al-Satwa, to those suburbs and leased
p. 19), Al Satwa ‘evokes a poignant sense their houses to labourers and low-income
of realness and humanity’. Undoubtedly, workers, most of whom had come from India,
Al-Satwa is a humble and vibrant district that Pakistan, Bangladesh, or the Philippines.
holds many stories, communal memories, and Although the land in the new neighbour-
significant cultural inheritance. I observed hoods was subsidized, some UAE families
and documented the transformation and con- could not afford the construction cost of
dition of Al-Satwa over nine years through a new residence and so stayed in the old
in-depth fieldwork. I knocked on doors, neighbourhood among the working class.
spoke with business owners, chatted with Many members of the bedoon, a segment of
occupants and visitors, took photos, and used the population whose ancestors had migrated
the sidewalks and streets extensively during from the Persian coast and Zanzibar and who
the day and night. As a result, I was able to had no valid national identity documentation,
record a series of photographs and stories also remained in the area (Elsheshtawy,
detailing residents’ lives and the changing 2008). When the Dubai-based real estate firm
landscape of this location. took over the place in 2007 and compensated
the original residents, a second wave of
migration to the suburban areas occurred.
Demographic History and Shift
The compensation provided a fair amount of
My own observations over the course of money (around $1 million), which enabled
several years reflected the transformation many families to lease their houses and move
of Al-Satwa from a family-oriented neigh- into bigger ones in the suburbs. However,
bourhood into place massively populated by the recession in 2008 left the firm unable to
single immigrants. In the 1970s and 1980s, compensate the small number of remaining
this area housed a vibrant community of native residents who still lived among the
close-knit residences on 50 x 50 ft (15 x 15 working-class immigrants.
m) plots, but today, the old community is
partially eroded and destroyed. In the early
Al-Satwa Housing
1990s, this housing district transformed into
an area where labourers live. Two factors Al-Satwa’s urban morphology is best de-

354 BUILT  ENVIRONMENT   VOL  40   NO  3
URBAN REDEVELOPMENT TRAUMA: THE STORY OF A DUBAI NEIGHBOURHOOD

scribed by its traditional courtyard housing of renting bed space in an apartment ranges
forms, its mid- to low-rise buildings, its inter- from $163 to $217 per month. This higher
connected street systems, and the mass of range is typically due to the small number of
narrow alleyways which occupy approxi- occupants in flats. Specifically, the variation
mately 13 per cent of the area (Dubai Muni- in rental prices is based on four major
cipality, 1995) (see figure 3). Because Al-Satwa factors: the unit type (single-family house or
was originally planned for households and apartment); the size of the room; the number
families, it is illegal to rent to single people; of occupants per room; and whether the space
however, the city has not enforced this is an upper deck or lower deck. Upper decks,
prohibition due to the lack of proper housing known by Filipinos as baba, which means down
stock for working-class immigrants, many of or low, tend to cost about $30 less than cabins on
whom are single or have left their families in lower decks, known to Filipinos as taas, meaning
their home nations. As a result, the city’s old highness or superior. Research participants
neighbourhoods have become ethnic enclaves indicated that these rates are fairly affordable
of immigrant labourers. These labourers when compared to rental prices in adjacent
typically find their living environment low-income neighbourhoods.
satisfactory and attractive.
During the course of my research, the
Demolition and Displacement as
occupancy level in this old district reached
Urban Violence
around forty to fifty workers per house of
2,500 ft2 (232 m2) (a typical house size in The government originally planned Al-Satwa
Al-Satwa). The number of tenants per room in the late 1960s; it was primarily intended to
now ranges from four to eight, depending on provide subsidized housing for local families.
the room size (figure 4). The price of renting The district sits only a few hundred feet away
one bed in such a house as indicated by from Dubai’s new downtown corridor along
research participants and as observed from Sheikh Zayed Road. Since the early 1990s, a
advertisement flyers, ranges from $68 to spectacular number of contemporary high-
$136 per month. Rental prices of a full room rises have been built alongside this stretch
range from $545 to $1,090 per month. Rooms of highway, resulting in shifts in the city‘s
and bed spaces in apartment buildings skyline, image, and centre (Elsheshtawy,
appear to cost more. For example, the cost 2004). This section of Dubai is a strong ex-

Figures 3 and 4. A paved alleyway with traditional single-family units on the right and mid-rise buildings
on the left; A photo montage showing the interior of a typical house in Al Satwa. The bottom-right photo
shows a mix of Indian and Bengali labourers with bunk beds in a room of 10 x 10 feet (3 x 3 m).

BUILT  ENVIRONMENT   VOL  40   NO  3 355
URBAN VIOLENCE

Figure 5. Contrasting urbanism: Al-Satwa with its traditional fabric and housing style in the foreground,
and Dubai’s new, modern downtown corridor in the background.

ample of class and spatial segregation. But workers moved to surrounding areas such
at the same time, it also attests to Dubai’s as Al Jafiliya, Al Bada, Al-Karama, and the
urban diversity (Kaabour, 2008), and to the western part of Al-Satwa. Additionally, all
‘resilience of human spirit’ (Elsheshtawy, people who owned property in the area
2011, p. 30) (see figure 5). were compensated (around $1 million per
In 2007, the government allocated this household).
traditional urban neighbourhood a Dubai- In 2008, demolition work was postponed
based real estate investment company with because Dubai took a significant hit in the
instructions to knock down the area and recession. Due to the global economic decline,
replace it with a luxurious development. the development was deferred indefinitely.
Detailed plans were announced: the area The firm is now focusing on adjusting its
would be turned into ‘Jumeirah Garden master plan to accelerate development when
City’, a private development composed of the real estate market stabilizes. Nelson
high-end hotels and skyscrapers. Once the (2010) argues that if this central location is
firm took charge in 2007, it started knocking offered as a freehold zone for towers and
down the buildings. The once bustling, high-end urbanism, it will have a ripple
dense, and dynamic area was slowly reduced effect over adjacent traditional areas. If this
to rubble (see figure 6). Many low-income expectation is correct, then the destruction

356 BUILT  ENVIRONMENT   VOL  40   NO  3
URBAN REDEVELOPMENT TRAUMA: THE STORY OF A DUBAI NEIGHBOURHOOD

of diverse central neighbourhoods will headed towards an era of ‘urban amnesia’


become an ‘accepted norm’ in Dubai’s urban and rupture (Kaabour, 2008).
redevelopment agenda (Kaabour, 2008). Al-Satwa, despite its vibrancy and history,
The destruction of this vibrant and pedes- is currently in serious jeopardy. The worst
trian-oriented neighbourhood represented problem is that the neighbourhood’s future
a massive loss to Dubai’s heritage and is vulnerable and uncertain. One of the
diversity. I argue that this loss constitutes a major benefits of the recession in 2008 was
form of urban violence in that it eliminates the delay of the proposed exaggerated devel-
diversity, removes low-income housing opment. But today, this vulnerable area
options, displaces people, and disregards might not be subject to necessary restoration
the city’s old fabric. Al-Satwa, indeed, is or preservation. Dubai recently won its bid
Dubai’s radical first attempt to replace inner- to organize the Expo 2020, a universal scale
city cores with privatized mega-projects. exposition, and that means that Dubai’s
Al-Satwa paved the way for the massive urban development will soon resume its over-
‘deconstruction-reconstruction’ agenda to heated pace.
become an accepted norm across Dubai. Economists believe that preparations for
When massive zones of this area were flat- this event will strongly amplify investment
tened, observers claimed that Dubai was in Dubai in the years leading up to the event.

Figure 6. Eastern section of Al Satwa in August 2008 showing the rubble and demolition work. This area
looks exactly the same today, in 2014. The Dubai-based firm, Meraas, has announced that the area will
remain largely vacant until further notice.

BUILT  ENVIRONMENT   VOL  40   NO  3 357
URBAN VIOLENCE

According to HSBC Global Research, Dubai near Al-Satwa. These neighbourhoods have
is prepared to devote up to US$7.1 billion to included old areas, such as the police per-
infrastructure and development initiatives sonnel neighbourhood which will be replaced
for this global event (Al Tuwaijri and Sharaf, by the City Walk development, and some
2013). In light of this expected recovery in new neighbourhoods, such as sections of
the real estate market, the development Al-Wasel, Al-Safa, and Jumeirah which will
of Jumeirah Garden City project might be be displaced by the Business Bay Canal (see
accelerated to suit market operations. This figure 7).
means that the Dubai-based firm might stride
over the remaining sections of Al-Satwa
The Psychological Trauma of Disruption
as well as the adjacent locations, putting
of a Cultural Home as Urban Violence
this unique and traditional area at risk of
demise. Recently, dome major Dubai-based So far, this article has discussed one kind
firms, such as Meraas and Dubai Properties, of urban violence embedded within the
recently began the process of market-driven story of Al-Satwa: the removal of the old
displacement by demolishing and re- city fabric for the sake of business and con-
developing several central neighbourhoods sumption interests only and the displacement

Figure 7. A photo montage showing the removal of additional centrally-located traditional neighbourhoods.
The background of the first three photos includes Burj Khalifa, while the foreground shows signs of Meraas’s
‘City Walk’ development, destined to provide high-end residential units and top-notch outdoor lifestyle
facilities. The City Walk will replace a traditional Dubai neighbourhood known as ‘Police Personnel’ that
houses large number of Dubai’s police officers and employers. Half of this neighbourhood has been razed,
and the other half will disappear at the end of 2014. The neighbourhood’s dense and traditional fabric
surrounded by construction cranes and rubbles are shown in the bottom-right photo.

358 BUILT  ENVIRONMENT   VOL  40   NO  3
URBAN REDEVELOPMENT TRAUMA: THE STORY OF A DUBAI NEIGHBOURHOOD

of low-income residents. This section predominantly serves this particular group.


describes another form of urban violence Today, Al-Satwa is cherished by thousands
that I observed during my fieldwork – of Filipinos, Indians, and Pakistanis who
psychological violence related to the mingle in restaurants or while standing at a
uncertain future of this unique area and the bus stop or shopping in a number of ethnic
disruption of a valued ethnic neighbourhood. supermarkets and stores (Elsheshtawy, 2008).
The economic decline brought with it a During my research, I paid attention to
temporary respite for Al-Satwa’s admirers the current residents’ love and appreciation
and supporters, but Dubai is now witnessing of their neighbourhood, and specifically their
a gradual financial recovery which may sense of how well it serves their needs and
challenge the survival of this unique land- creates a sense of cultural home. I observed
scape in the future. the places where Al-Satwa residents met and
Field observation and interviews reveal interacted with each other and with their
that current occupants, shop workers, and neighbourhood. People from the Indian
business operators (mainly from India, subcontinent, the majority of whom are
Pakistan, Bangladesh, and the Philippines) Muslim, usually socialize with each other
have a great sense of belonging and nostalgic on Al-Satwa’s streets and alleyways, as well
attachment to the area. They are very satisfied as at mosques after prayers. This population
with their living arrangements, and Al-Satwa segment also has a huge appetite for cricket,
has become dear to them. They attribute their which is practiced regularly by children
sense of appreciation and connection to the and adults in Al-Satwa’s alleyways and on
area to the following factors: (1) its strategic vacant land. According to some participants,
location; (2) its abundance of affordable and this game brings the community together
diverse housing options; (3) its abundance and truly transforms ‘their busy day into a
of job opportunities; (4) its accessible and day of entertainment’, excitement, and joy.
convenient resources for meeting basic daily This group of workers also comes together
needs; and (5) its proximity to facilities and in Al-Satwa’s Bus Terminal Plaza and in
public transportation services. Demolishing Al-Satwa’s numerous Indian and Pakistani
the area will deprive many low-income eateries (figure 8). The area features two
workers of the living environment that they restaurant chains: Ravi and Karachi Darbar.
value highly. Moreover, the removal of this Ravi has three locations in Al-Satwa and has
traditional area will cause a massive cultural been in the area for more than 30 years. This
loss, will eliminate diversity in Dubai’s urban legendary Indian restaurant earned a visit
fabric, and will deprive Dubai’s residents of a from ‘Anthony Bourdain: No Reservations’,
vibrant pedestrian culture full of events and an American travel and food show. In the
services. Dubai episode, Bourdain uncovered the sim-
At present, Al-Satwa offers a slice of ple side of Dubai by exploring this historical
home for thousands of low-income workers. Indian restaurant situated in the heart of
Message boards on alleyway walls and Al-Satwa. In the same episode, Bourdain
street lights reflect the ethnic spirit of the visited some of Dubai’s finest high-end
district as they advertise accommodation ‘for restaurants, such as Gordon Ramsay’s Verre
Filipinos, Pakistanis, Indians, and Bengalis’. Dubai Restaurant. The contrast between these
In the late 1980s and early 1990s, Satwa’s restaurants exemplifies Dubai’s diversity.
dynamic retail corridor served residents The lifestyle of the Filipino population, on
without orientation towards specific ethnic the other hand, centres on different types
groups. The dramatic influx of the Indian of entertainment. Members of this ethnic
and South Asian immigrants transformed group congregate in four major destinations.
the area into an ethnic urban setting that The top two, as many interviewees said,

BUILT  ENVIRONMENT   VOL  40   NO  3 359
URBAN VIOLENCE

Figure 8. A photo montage showing the Indian subcontinents residents’ attachment to Al-Satwa. From left
to right: (1) A group of Pakistani people playing cricket in east Satwa. Dubai’s downtown corridor is shown
in the background; (2) a group of residents socializing at an outdoor setting area of a mosque; (3) some
residents interacting in front of their store at Satwa’s commercial strip; and (4) congregation at Satwa’s bus
terminal plaza.

are Al-Maya Supermarket and New West and pandesel (‘salt bread’); (2) the Open Beach,
Zone Supermarket, both of which operate which is 2 kilometres away from Al-Satwa; (3)
twenty-four hours a day, seven days a week the Al-Karam area, which is easily accessible
and sell a variety of Filipino products and by public transport and features a number of
foods. According to one study participant, bars that serve alcohol at reasonable prices;
Al-Maya Supermarket is the ‘most favourite’ and (4) unexpectedly, the new downtown
place because it offers ‘Filipino pork and corridor along Sheikh Zayed Road, with
fish’, which cannot be found anywhere its variety of fast-food eateries and coffee
else in Dubai. These places also offer some shops. This downtown area offers amenities
community services, such as a monitored and high-end apartments for high-income
advertising board where Filipinos can post people, but during weekends, I observed
advertisements for free. Both stores, indeed, hundreds of Filipinos socializing in the
function as community centres for the neigh- area’s American chain restaurants, including
bourhood’s Filipino population (figure 9). McDonald’s, Burger King, Starbucks, Pizza
Other areas where Filipinos interact Hut, Applebee’s, and Tim Horton. The last
include: (1) Filipino eateries and bakeries dis- franchise attracts the lion’s share of Filipino
persed in many locations; one example is customers due to its affordable coffee and
Pan de Manila (‘bread of Manila’), a bakery food prices compared with Starbucks.
franchise which sells Filipino refreshments International media reports describe low-

360 BUILT  ENVIRONMENT   VOL  40   NO  3
URBAN REDEVELOPMENT TRAUMA: THE STORY OF A DUBAI NEIGHBOURHOOD

Figure 9. A photo montage showing Filipino residents’ attachment to the neighbourhood. From Left to
right: (1) Filipino crowds at the entrance of Al-Maya Supermarket; (2) Filipinos shopping and browsing
at Al Hudaiba Street, informally known as Manila; (3) Filipinos socializing at Kabayan restaurant; and
(4) Filipino congregation at West Zone Supermarket; (‘Turo Turo’) means ‘to point,’ a slang for fast food
restaurant where customers quickly point to what to order from the displayed dishes.

income workers as facing ruthless conditions, Everyone I spoke with during my field
a variety of abuses, and a lack of rights. research gave the impression of being proud
Despite that, my research revealed a great and delighted to be in Dubai (see figure
sense of respect and appreciation among 10). Their central concern was confined to
Al-Satwa’s residents towards their living en- one major question: what happens to low-
vironment and work. Historically, workers income workers and their heritage if in
have faced some mistreatment related to pay- future, developers demolish historically sig-
ment of salaries and lack of facilities, but in nificant neighbourhoods such as Al-Satwa?
recent years, the government drafted new This feeling among Satwa’s ethnic com-
laws forbidding any kind of exploitation. munity leads to the argument that when

Figure 10. A Bengali worker reveals his love and appreciation for Dubai by wearing an ‘I love Dubai’
T-shirt.

BUILT  ENVIRONMENT   VOL  40   NO  3 361
URBAN VIOLENCE

residents are very satisfied with their current Iqbal had lived in Dubai for thirty-five
neighbourhood, it would be a form of years and in Al-Satwa for twenty. He ran an
psychological and economic violence to raze appliance-repair shop and lived five minutes’
the neighbourhood and disrupts its residents. walking distance from work. He said:
I am in love with this community; I raised my
Psychological Trauma: children and I started my business here. What
is really unique about this place is that we meet
A Neighbourhood on Hold our needs on foot and there is an abundance of
My research findings indicate high levels of facilities offered around. All you need is just to
choose from the wide range of offers and deal
happiness and satisfaction among Al-Satwa’s
residents. But they also reveal a layer of Iqbal expressed serious concern and dis-
distress among both residents and advocates tress about the possibility of developers
concerning the neighbourhood’s future. This razing the retail strip and western section of
area is facing a constant threat of removal, Al-Satwa. He said that replacing old places
and its residents and business owners have with modern monumental buildings is an
few resources to find alternative affordable ‘offbeat’ practice. He continued, ‘I really can-
locations. This transitional stage is causing not imagine Dubai without Satwa.’ He also
anxiety, psychological violence, and cultural said, ‘I will lose my business and income if
loss. Many generations were born and raised developers raze Al-Satwa.’ Similar thoughts
in this neighbourhood; the area is precious were shared by Suliman, an Indian study
to many people across Dubai. It is also dear participant, who ran a grocery store and
to its current residents, many of whom are had lived in the area for twenty-three years.
low-income workers who find in this place He said, ‘I am very sad about the demise of
the spirit and vitality of their home country. the eastern side of Satwa.’ He added that he
Interview data demonstrate tangible con- thought that there should be some old areas
cerns among Al-Satwa residents regarding where housing and services are ‘affordable’
Satwa’s chance of persistence. I met people and that Dubai should not be entirely con-
who had lived in this community for decades verted to ‘new’; Al-Satwa, he said, shows
and felt that they knew it better than they part of Dubai’s ‘heritage’ which is full of
knew their hometown. For example, Jalal dynamism, smell, activity, and eagerness.
and Taj, both truck drivers from Pakistan, Salman, the owner of a thrift clothing store,
noted the uniqueness of Al-Satwa’s urban shared similar opinions. He mentioned, ‘I feel
environment and life. Both had lived in Dubai unsecured and I am stressed of losing my
for fifty years and in Al-Satwa for thirty. business’ since the removal of west Satwa.
They attested to their devotion and loyalty Salman owns two stores in Al-Satwa and he
to the place. They said, ‘If this place is gone, showed a serious sense of fear and insecurity
we will retire and go home.’ They claimed about the unknown future of the area. This
that it is ideal for low-income workers and study participant also mentioned, ‘I just need
particularly for truck drivers because there a transparent answer: whether this area will
is an abundance of spaces where drivers can remain as is or it will be demolished.’
park their trucks for free. No other place Mohammad, from Pakistan, also spoke
in Dubai provides free parking for heavy of the distinctiveness of Al-Satwa and of its
automobiles, buses, and trucks; therefore, chance to survive. He had lived in the area
if the remaining part of Al-Satwa is razed, for fourteen years and ran a pet shop selling
many low-income drivers will lose the benefit birds, fish tanks, and pet supplies. He showed
of an efficient, nearby place to park. a strong sense of affection and attachment to
Another study participant, Iqbal, from the place and said, ‘There will be no place
Pakistan, also spoke of Al-Satwa as unique. like this ever.’ Mohammad bluntly argued

362 BUILT  ENVIRONMENT   VOL  40   NO  3
URBAN REDEVELOPMENT TRAUMA: THE STORY OF A DUBAI NEIGHBOURHOOD

that Al-Satwa is the ‘pounding heart’ of owned a store that sold home décor, fabrics,
Dubai and is an indication of ‘fairness’ to and furniture; they lived in the eastern
low-income workers. He also mentioned that part of Al-Satwa, which houses a huge Fili-
any plan that harms the area will eliminate pino population. I asked them ‘is this area com-
a place that holds communal memory and monly known as “Manila”?’ They responded,
a great sense of cultural home. Mohammad ‘indeed, [it is].’ They said, take ‘a taxi’ from
explained that the community and business any section of Dubai and tell the driver to
owners in Al-Satwa are worried about the take you to Manila; without any question, he
future. The neighbourhood is ‘on hold’ and is will drop you at the Al-Maya Supermarket, a
under ‘demolition threat’, and this is causing major Filipino supermarket. Many observers
distress and disruption among the com- (Elsheshtawy, 2008; Nelson, 2010) and
munity, especially among the ones who have research participants confirmed this sense
lived for many years in the neighbourhood. of the ethnic orientation of this part of the
Mohammad and several other research neighbourhood. For example, Mathias, from
participants also spoke of the uniqueness the Philippines, had lived in labour accom-
of Al-Satwa. In particular, they emphasized modation for many years. Recently, he had
Satwa’s dense urban form, high degree of moved to Al-Satwa to see and live among
accessibility, affordability, and ‘proximity ‘Kabayan’, which means fellow countrymen.
to facilities’. They stated that Al-Satwa has a This term is also used by Philippines
strong identity based on its central location nationals to express their love and respect
between Dubai’s southern and northern for each other. Joebin and Maria, two Filipino
districts. They also said that because of research participants, similarly expressed
Al-Satwa’s ‘centrality, effective transporta- their sense of the area’s ethnic orientation:
tion services, and large stock of affordable We live in Al-Satwa since 2007. It really feels
housing’, it is the preferred living environ- like home now; we speak Tagalog, eat Filipino
ment for workers in the service and retail food and bread, live with mainstream Filipino
sectors. Participants emphasized that Al- population, and ride a bus with majority Filipinos.
Satwa is a major ‘transportation hub’. The What else is needed to feel like home? Satwa is
highly accessible to all necessities. It takes us less
area has a bus terminal and numerous bus than one minute to reach our bus stop to go to
routes that carry passengers all over Dubai. work, and it takes us less than five minutes to
The average amount of time interviewees said find an authentic Filipino eatery; we couldn’t
it takes them to walk to a bus stop ranged ask for more… The major concern we have is
from one to five minutes. Confirming these the possibility of losing Al-Satwa in light of the
recovery that Dubai is witnessing now.
findings, Dubai’s Road and Transportation
Authority (RTA) classifies Al-Satwa as a major Interviewees painted a picture of Al-Satwa
transportation core and as Dubai’s second as original, fair, and vibrant. For example,
Central Business District (CBD). The RTA the two Syrian participants repeatedly said
estimates suggest that in 2013, Al-Satwa was that Al-Satwa’s commercial strip is the most
served by 16 bus routes and 192 buses. Buses ‘attractive and striking street’ in Dubai. They
operate at headways of ten to fifteen minutes. said that the street was full of excitement,
Estimates suggest that every day, buses make movement, stories, and people ‘all over the
1,891 trips to and from Al-Satwa, travelling day’ and that no matter what time it was,
43,972 km. This comprehensive network Satwa remained full of life with its unique
carries around 79,401 passengers per day. urban tissue and colourful glittering stores,
Mohammad and Ali, Syrian participants illuminated by glowing fluorescent tubes and
who had lived in the area with their family neon lights. Satwa’s vibrancy, in every sense,
for fourteen years, spoke of the cultural reminded them of Damascus’s tight urban
familiarity that Al-Satwa offered them. They fabric and street vitality. They also described

BUILT  ENVIRONMENT   VOL  40   NO  3 363
URBAN VIOLENCE

Al-Satwa as a ‘humble and unpretentious’ ditions, I noted a collective anxiety and stress
urban environment. They said that people in regarding the impending destiny of their
Al-Satwa walk shoulder to shoulder and look neighbourhood. All participants condemned
up to each other, and that no one is better any plan that would remove this unique,
than the others; all people are equal. traditional neighbourhood. They indicated
These thoughts were affirmed by that cities should maintain old buildings
Mohammad, from Bangladesh, who works at and traditional life patterns. The emergence
a restaurant and cycles ten minutes to work of towers in this place, they argued, would
every day. Mohammad said that Al-Satwa is deprive Dubai’s people as well as visitors
an indication of ‘simplicity, humbleness’, and of its matchless flavour. They described the
modesty in urban Dubai. He said, ‘everyone neighbourhood as a ‘safe haven’ for low-
is nice and good to me; we are all alike in income workers. One participant said that
this neighbourhood; we work together, no other place would have the ‘capacity’ to
eat together, walk together, and share our accommodate large groups of low-income
concerns and happiness with each other.’ workers. Another participant said that on
The indigenous population still maintains ‘behalf of all low-income workers, we will be
a slight presence in the area. One research devastated if this community is disappeared’.
participant, for example, Aysha, was a He said that the removal of this area will
seventy-five-year-old woman who was native increase housing prices in surrounding
to Dubai and had lived in Al-Satwa for more areas, because migration waves to alternate
than forty years. Aysha said that to live there locations will rise steeply. One participant
meant that being ‘in the heart of everything’. stated that the city and developers should
The demographic transformation of the area take a closer look and make a wiser decision
had not caught her attention. She linked regarding the future of the area. Another
her satisfaction with the neighbourhood to participant asked, what the reasons were
the availability of services. She argued that for making everything in Dubai new and
Satwa has a vibrant pedestrian culture which expensive? She continued, saying that there
promotes walkability and physical activity. should be sections of the city to serve lower-
She claimed that this was good for her health income people. All participants concurred
because she had diabetes. Aysha had raised that Al-Satwa should be ‘preserved’ as a
ten children in this place. When I spoke with ‘historic site’ that represents Dubai’s culture
her, she was living with three of her children; of diversity and choice.
the rest had moved to the suburbs with their
families. Her children constantly asked her to
Discussion: Satwa and Urban Violence
leave her old house and move with them, but
she never accepted. She explained, This article offers an evidence-based theo-
I cannot substitute this vibrant area with a lifeless retical contribution to the concept of urban
neighbourhood where every single trip is made by violence. Specifically, the case of Al-Satwa
an automobile. I cannot imagine myself without demonstrates that urban violence is not just
this area… I really feel stressed about the fate of overt physical conflict between members of
this area since the 2007 destruction process. The the population. Instead, urban violence can
pressure on me increased by the recent recovery
in the market… This area should be maintained also include top-down government-corporate
not demolished… I lived the most beautiful period projects that upset the lives of residents. The
of my life here; I have a lot of memories, and I article introduces a concept of urban violence
hope more memories come along in this place; not that focuses on ways that city planners,
anywhere else. developers, and decision-makers can harm
Although interviewees indicated a high city residents. I discuss several dimensions
degree of contentment with their living con- of this kind of city-sponsored urban violence:

364 BUILT  ENVIRONMENT   VOL  40   NO  3
URBAN REDEVELOPMENT TRAUMA: THE STORY OF A DUBAI NEIGHBOURHOOD

(1) destruction of cultural city fabrics and the desire and needs of exclusive personnel.
displacement of residents; (2) disruption of This research reflects how Dubai’s core
much-valued ethnic enclaves and economic areas are controlled by public-private busi-
resources for an underprivileged segment ness leaders and demonstrates how top-
of the population; and (3) creation of an down planning thoughts and actions, when
atmosphere of uncertainty that itself consti- they merely favour high-end people and
tutes a form of psychological violence. fast investment return, can be a form of
When Jumeirah Gardens was designed to urban violence with a traumatic effect on
replace Al-Satwa and adjacent locations, no low-income individuals. Participants in this
one anticipated an economic crisis. When study expressed a strong sense of belonging
the unexpected crisis reached its peak in to the neighbourhood, satisfaction with the
2008, construction ceased. Today, Dubai- neighbourhood and their homes, and appre-
based mega-firms are again turning their ciation of the local environment. Bramley
eyes towards capitalizing on the old core et al. (2010) argue that these factors are
areas surrounding the downtown corridor core indicators of social stability. Going
along Sheikh Zayed Road. The people living much further back, the Greek philosopher
in these areas will be hit directly by resumed Plato said that the ideal city must mitigate
development, which typically appears against exploitation and must provide ‘shelter,
suddenly and without warning. Preparation protection, and most importantly happiness’
for Expo 2020 will raise speculation and boost to its residents (Plato, as cited in Ghazal,
the real estate sector once again. Historically, 2013). For this reason, I argue that Dubai
the market promotes the development of is enacting a type of urban violence by
Dubai as an extravagant place for business knocking down Al-Satwa to expand the city’s
and elite groups, rather than as a place of commercial realty and high-end lifestyle
preservation, modesty, and the sensitive facilities. The dimensions of this violence
occupation of land. For this reason, it would include eliminating physical areas that carry
be unusual if this site were to be preserved strong emotional memories, demolishing the
and maintained. old city fabric to benefit business interests,
Al-Satwa and its surrounding districts are displacing residents and employees, de-
close to Dubai’s downtown corridor. The priving Dubai of a unique and vigorous
nature and morphology of the redevelopment place, disregarding traditional lifestyles
plans, typically described as investment- and urban fabrics, and disrupting residents’
driven projects, support other scholars’ argu- sense of satisfaction and security by creating
ments about developments of central areas confusion about the neighbourhood’s future.
in cities. For example, Frieden and Sagalyn
(1989) argue that urban land surrounding
Conclusion
downtown areas or business districts are
major assets controlled by the government This article shows how top-down urban
and private investors. Dubai’s redevelopment planning, when it only prioritizes developers’
actions also support Hu’s (2013) ‘growth interests and short-term economic-gain,
machine theory’ of downtown expansion; can be a form of urban violence. The study
Hu argues that the growth and operation demonstrates how important Al-Satwa is
of central areas are primarily controlled by to its current residents, how much better it
business elites. Another point is that Dubai’s was before its partial demolition, how much
redevelopment practice touches upon Hu’s its current residents love it, how deserved
(2013) focus on ‘privatism-dominated thesis’, this love is, and therefore how wrong it
which portrays the issue of market-driven is to demolish it and distress people for
urbanism designed and developed to fulfil the sake of high-end reconstruction. All

BUILT  ENVIRONMENT   VOL  40   NO  3 365
URBAN VIOLENCE

participants in this study concurred that Trends in Architecture and Urbanism in Arab
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