Trip to Botsalano, Mafikeng and Molopo Game Reserves in January 2022

Our trip started on 13th January 2022 at Botsalano after an uneventful run from Pretoria
via Dinokana. We found all the dams full and many overflowing after the good rains that
the region had in December and January. Some of the tracks following channels of the
Ramatlabama River were under water and impassable but most were in good condition
with the grass on the middelmannetjie mown. We camped at Sentry Hill looking north
over the Reserve. The camp site had been swept for our arrival, there was water and
firewood was plentiful. With abundant water the animals were dispersed. We saw all the
common ones except buffalo.
Although our visit coincided with a weekend, we saw only two day-visitors and a party at
the Tented camp. It is a pity this excellent reserve is not better utilized.
I want to suggest setting up a work party to visit Sentry Hill for a couple of days. Part of
the boma has fallen down and an unsavoury first impression is created for what is
otherwise a magnificent bush camp. The Reserve Manager told me that they have fixed
it before but rhino use the poles as rubbing places and knock the wall down regularly. I
think the answer is to concrete the main poles and then lay sharp stones around the
specific place as done at some sign pillars (see photo). Barbed wire could also be wound
around the poles to discourage rhino.

Materials that we would need are a pocket

of concrete mix, cement and strong wire.
Is anyone game for an outing?
A Visitor guide is at

https://www.scribd.com/document/513783370/Botsalano-Visitor-Guide-v9

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 After three nights at Sentry Hill, we moved on
to Mafikeng Game Reserve. We arrived in
pouring rain for a two-night stay. We opted for
Angel's Rest House instead of Nare bush camp
because of the damp conditions. As usual, it
was spotlessly clean and a pleasure to stay
there. The building is in need of renovation soon
and the kitchen utensils are needing
replenishment (anyone with a spare kettle?). A
huge dead jacaranda tree needs to be felled
before it falls onto the roof of the house.
It was great to see that the roof over the
entrance gate has been repaired as good as
new and new track signage has been put up. (It
is about time that Botsalano gave attention to
their road signs as they are looking worse for
wear.)
Large tracts of the Reserve had been burnt in the dry season and all the shrubs and
trees are sprouting from their bases. The grass cover was excellent. Fire is a natural
feature of the ecosystem and regular burns are needed to prevent the woody component
taking over from the grass layer.
Since our last visit, Nare bush camp has been equipped with a donkey for hot showers.
This is the work of a branch of a local hunters' association. This is a good example of
what can be achieved with a public-private partnership and the camp remains a gem.
The tracks were muddy from the heavy rains but all the tracks open to the public were
usable.
With all the water around, the antelope were not gathering at the usual waterholes.
Springbok and black wildebeest just stood and looked at us, so different from the
behaviour we experienced later at Molopo Game Reserve. We didn't see rhino but saw a
herd of buffalo as we were leaving. There is a Visitor guide here:
https://www.scribd.com/document/522312032/Mafikeng-Visitor-Guide-v9
Our trip to Molopo was eventful in that we chose the route from Setlagole to Bray as
something different. We were stopped by a flooded tributary of the Setlagole river and
had to turn back and then head north again from near Stella. With the delay we ended

up near Piet Plessis looking for a camp site. We found amazing hospitality and within ten
minutes of chatting to a local farmer we had three options for a bush camp. We settled
on Hendrik and Chantell's farm and had a very pleasant evening.

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The next morning, we had almost finished packing up
when the rain started. Hendrik told us about Molopo
Boeretroos in Piet Plessis. Instead of doing our own
coffee and rusks breakfast we dropped in there for an
excellent meal. Full English breakfast, a toasted
sandwich and great coffee were enjoyed and we can
certainly recommend the stop. The shop is not marked
on the outside so you will need to ask a local for
directions.
From Piet Plessis we headed north to see what the fossil
Molopo River was looking like. After seeing a tributary of the Setlagole which flows into
the Molopo, we were hoping to see a rare occurrence and were not disappointed. The

Molopo does not flow in this area for years at a time. At Vergeleë we saw a lake filling up
in the bed of the river. It was even more dramatic a week later as I will describe.
Most of the roads in the area had water-filled 'dips' at regular intervals. Previous vehicles
had made detours around them. Slowing down for each water dip resulted in slow
progress but, after all, we were on holiday. Cattle and goats were often on the road. One

unfortunate bus did not make it through a

dip.

The scenery in this part of North-West Province deserves a mention. The natural veld is
a savanna of tall Camelthorn trees and good grass cover. Unfortunately, many farmers
have cleared the woody growth for more productive pastures and crops. There is a
mixture of intensive modern farming and subsistence agriculture reminiscent of the old
Bophuthatswana days.

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From Vergeleë we headed for Bray and then took the 'long' way around to Molopo Game
Reserve via Werda, following roughly the course of the Molopo River. We passed the
fence of the Khamab Kalahari Reserve, one of the biggest privately-owned ranches in
South Africa (90 000 ha). This road was also full of water-filled dips. A plus point of
taking this road after the rain was that the sand was hard, making driving easy.
When we got close to Molopo we discussed options for overnighting. There had been rain
off-and-on all day and we decided to look for something better than camping for our first
night. We phoned the number advertising a B&B opposite the Reserve (066 484 4229)
but were told that the B&B was not in operation. We enquired about other options at the
Vorstershoop general store. They said they had a room for us but could not find the key!
We had anyway looked at the room from the outside after shooing away the goats on
the carport and decided it was not for us. So, we returned to Phiri camp in the Reserve
and set up camp on the stoep of the ablution block. As the evening wore on the rain
abated and it turned out to be a pleasant evening. Apart from the last night, we moved
to a regular camp site after that.
I spent the six days continuing my photographic survey of the plants of the Reserve. A
visitor guide is in development. Here are a couple of special plants that we saw.

Like the other North-West Province reserves, facilities at the Phiri camp were spotless
but in need of minor repairs before they get out of hand. With my next visit I am going
to take three plastic toilet seats for the ablution block. The electricity was on but we
needed to phone for water to be pumped for the tank. Nothing to do with the Reserve,
but a great annoyance was that for three days Vodacom was not available. One theory I
heard was that the main transmitter tower at Vorstershoop was sabotaged to allow rhino
horn poachers untrammelled access to the game farms of the area.
All the tracks we drove were in good order. Some were showing slight erosion from the
good summer rains. A light 4x4 vehicle is needed for some routes.

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We had the reserve to ourselves for six days, not meeting any other visitors. We did not
see much game on our drives, partly because of the dense foliage but also the animals
are wary in this reserve as it is used for big game hunting. Gemsbuck, in particular, took
one look at us and cleared off. Seeing two steenbok quite close was a special sighting.
We heard lion roaring most mornings. These are on Afri-Sun Safaris' property across the
road from Molopo. Lion hunting is advertised on their website.
If you want to see the big five from the comfort of your airconditioned Fortuner then go
to Kruger. For cocktails by candle light with waiters in white uniforms try Sabi Sands or
something similar. Molopo is different. You won't see much game but you can explore
the veld on foot without being accompanied by armed guards. Catering is as basic or
elaborate as you want to make it. Depending on the time of year the veld can be green
with waving grasses in seed and the trees in full leaf. In winter most of the trees shed
their leaves and the grass layer becomes a brown mat.

Talking to management, it is clear

that more support from head office
would be welcomed. Their hands
are tied and although they know
what they would like to do or need
to do getting approval and finance seems to be a problem. One hole in the boundary
fence, for example, has been covered up with thorn tree
branches. Surely perimeter security should be a priority?
We left Molopo and headed back to Botsalano for our last
night. On the way we visited the river at Vergeleë again to
see what had happened to the water. An impressive torrent
flowed over the dam wall. We stopped for lunch at the
Setlagole crossing where we had been blocked a week
before. There were still pools of water in the road but we
could get across.
We stayed in
the Lerako camp at Botsalano, one of our
favourites. The site was clean and the grass
had been mown. A special visitor late in the
afternoon was a lone giraffe that ambled
slowly past. In the morning we saw two
jackal close to the road. This animal
behaviour would not be seen in Molopo.
On the way out we popped in at the Mogobe
tented camp to look at the level of the
Mogobe dam which it overlooks. Like most
other dams, this one was full. We were
dismayed to find that the lock on the lounge/dining room tent has been destroyed. This
unnecessary destructive behaviour by visitors is most disappointing. Fortunately, the
management has names and vehicle registrations should they wish to follow up.

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The preferred route from Botsalano to Gauteng is probably taking the road out of the
gate northwards, meeting up with the N4 at Dinokana and turning towards Zeerust. We
took the scenic route via Bewley to Zeerust. This road is not for the faint-hearted but the
scenery is interesting. The road crosses a wide floodplain of a tributary of the
Ramatlabama river. There were many water-filled dips reminiscent of the roads in the
Kalahari.
Some comments about routes:
Vryburg-Morokweng: Tar and good gravel road
Morokweng-Vorstershoop/Molopo GR: Very poor surface
Bray-Vorstershoop/Molopo GR via Werda: Road in fair condition
Vorstershoop-Terra Firma- Tosca-Vergeleë: Road in acceptable condition
Terra Firma-Bray-Vergeleë: Acceptable condition
Vergeleë-Makgobistad-Masibi-Mafikeng: The fastest route to civilisation from
Molopo GR
Piet Plessis area: Interesting countryside. Roads mostly in good condition.

It was a most interesting and enjoyable trip. We are looking forward to the next one.
Jeff & Lettie Morris
Jeffwmorris@gmail.com

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