International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2019, 41, 517–525
12564
Review Article
Renewable sources: applications in personal care formulations
F. Mellou, A. Varvaresou and S. Papageorgiou
Department of Biomedical Sciences, University of West Attica, Ag. Spyridona 12210, Campus 1, Agiou Spyridonos 28, Athens12243,Greece
Received 27 May 2019, Accepted 29 July 2019
Keywords: biotechnology/fermentation, formulation skin care, safety testing
Abstract
A global tendency for products considered environmentally sustain-
able, and ecologically obtained led the industry related to personal
care formulations to fund the research and the development of per-
sonal care/cosmetics containing ingredients from natural resources.
Furthermore, consumers are aware of environmental and sustain-
ability issueans, thus not harming the environment represents a
key consideration when developing a new cosmetic ingredient. In
this study we review some examples of active ingredients or raw
materials used in cosmetics/personal care/biomedical products that
are coming from either through biotechnological systems, or as
byproducts of several industries. A skin formulation containing
biosynthetic actives, prepared by us and the study regarding its
dermocosmetic properties are also described. The need for the stan-
dardization processes, the safety assessment tools, the improvement
of the exploitation methods of these renewable sources in order the
production to be ecologically and economically better are also dis-
cussed.
Re
sume

Une tendance globale en faveur des produits consid
er
es comme
eco-
logiquement viables et obtenus par des m
ethodes
ecologiques a
conduit l’industrie li
ee aux formulations des soins personnels a
financer la recherche et le d
eveloppement de soins personnels/
cosm
etiques contenant des ingr
edients provenant de ressources
naturelles. Les consommateurs sont, en outre, sensibilis
es aux ques-
tions de l’environnement et de la durabilit
e, et la pr
eservation de
l’environnement repr
esente donc un facteur essentiel dans le d
eve-
loppement de nouveaux ingr
edients cosm
etiques. Dans cette
etude,
nous examinons quelques exemples de principes actifs ou de
matieres premieres utilis
e(e)s dans les produits cosm
etiques/soins
personnels/produits biom
edicaux issus de systemes biotechnologi-
ques, ou d
eriv
es de plusieurs industries. Nous pr
esentons
egalement
une formulation pour la peau contenant des agents actifs bio-
synth
etiques pr
epar
ee par nous, et d
ecrivons l’
etude concernant ses
propri
et
es dermocosm
etiques. Nous discutons
egalement de la
n
ecessit
e des processus de standardisation, des outils d’
evaluation
de la s
ecurit
e d’emploi, de l’am
elioration des m
ethodes
d’exploitation de ces sources renouvelables afin d’optimiser la pro-
duction tant sur le plan
ecologique qu’
economique.
Correspondence: Athanasia Varvaresou, Department of Biomedical
Sciences, University of West Attica, Campus 1, Agiou Spyridonos 28,
12243 Athens, Greece. Tel.: +30 210 5385628; fax: +30
2106810359; e-mail: varvaresou@pharm.uoa.gr
© 2019 Society of Cosmetic Scientists and the Soci
et
e Francßaise de Cosm
etologie
doi: 10.1111/ics.
Introduction
According to Cosmetics Europe—The Personal Care Association, 450
million of Europeans daily use a variety of cosmetic products, such as
soap, shampoo, hair conditioner, toothpaste, deodorant, shaving
cream, skin care, perfume and make-up [1]. A great part of the envi-
ronmental impact of cosmetic products ranged from unsustainable
sourcing of raw materials, pollution both in the manufacturing stage
and disposal of packaging and products [2]. Companies in response
to the increasing eco-consumerism are trying to incorporate in cos-
metic formulations agents of natural origin and improve the use of
sustainable raw materials/ingredients. Cosmetic application could be
a solution to reuse by-products discarded by several agro industries.
These ingredients especially when raw materials used are classified
as natural or possibly obtained from the waste and by-products are
concerned to be in general not harmful, not expensive, biodegradable
or at least compostable under specific environmental conditions, bio-
compatible and suitable to be used in a wide range of topical prepara-
tions. Every year about 300 billion tons of industrial and agricultural
waste are generated, deriving from processing of plant raw materials
into intermediates or final products [3]. There are cases that the
waste materials can cause problems when discarded [4].
The recycling and reuse of waste using green technologies will
reduce water consumption, greenhouse gas emissions and world-
wide pollution without impoverishing of the environment with pre-
cious and fundamental materials while saving the biodiversity of
the Earth [5]. Effort has been given in recent years for the applica-
tion of methodologies for the development of formulations with low
grey water footprint adapted for eco-design (GWFE) [6].
It is necessary to be underlined that the safety assessment is the
key issue for the incorporation of ingredients of non-conventional
natural origin in cosmetic products.
Adverse dermal effects of natural ingredients include irritation,
sensitization, phototoxicity and immediate-type allergy, showing
that being natural is not equivalent to being safe. Even further, in
the case of compounds coming from renewable sources, a variety
of approaches for quality and safety standards are needed. Con-
sumer safety should be the first objective of these ingredients.
The guidelines used for cosmetics can be employed to test the
safety of these ingredients according to the Scientific Committee on
Consumer Safety (SCCS), as well [7]. Changes in legislation, specifi-
cally in the European Union, have encouraged the creation of
in vitro tests so as to evaluate the safety of cosmetic ingredients,
since the use of animal tests was prohibited in Europe in 2004 for
cosmetics and in 2009 for cosmetic ingredients [8].
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Our laboratory has reported a few studies on the research and
development of cosmetics with natural ingredients or biotechnologi-
cal ingredients [9–13]. In this study, we attempt to provide a compre-
hensive overview of some important cases of sustainable active
substances or raw materials that have been appeared recently in the
cosmetic industry. A formulation prepared by us containing biosyn-
thetic ingredients and its activity on human skin is also described.
In the study of Marto [14], a novel sunscreen formulation with
high UVB/A protection, biological activity and better tolerability
was developed, by combining natural and multifunctional com-
pounds. The sunscreen formulation contained 35% of the lipid frac-
tion of spent coffee grounds extracted with supercritical CO2 and
green coffee oil (GCO) obtained from defective beans with improved
sunscreen performance and inorganic filters i.e zinc oxide. Addi-
tionally, GCO exhibited a synergistic effect in SPF value when it
was used with organic sunscreens i.e. ethylehexylcinnamate, lead-
ing to an increase in the SPF by 20% [15].
Coffee silverskin (CS) is the most abundant solid by-product gen-
erated during roasting of coffee processing. Its aqueus, hydroalco-
holic and ethanolic extracts are rich in phenolic and flavonoid
constituents. Rodrigues et al. evaluated the physical and microbio-
logical stabilities as well as the antioxidant activity and cytotoxicity
of a hand cream formulation containing Coffee silverskin extract.
Τhe study was performed upon production and after 6 months of
shelf life. The results showed that the formulation demonstrated
physical stability independently of the storage conditions, whereas
the antioxidant effect slightly was decreased [16].
A body formulation containing Coffee silverskin and another
food by-product obtained by Medicago sativa with high content of
antioxidants and isoflavones was evaluated by both in vitro and
in vivo tests. pH, rheological behaviour, colour, antioxidant and
contents and microbiological analysis were some of the parameters
measured during 180 days at different temperatures. In vitro cell
toxicity, in vivo skin safety, stability and some dermocosmetic prop-
erties were examined. Results showed stable physical properties
and antioxidant activity during storage. Considering irritant effects,
in vivo tests showed that the formulation is safe for topical use and
the skin hydration recovered after 30 days of use. As for toxicity,
in two skin cell lines screened, no toxicity was reported [17].
Olive pomace, a heterogeneous solid waste deriving from olive
oil production, is considered to be a low-cost and renewable source
of high-added value bioactive compounds, such as polyphenols.
In the study of Aliakbarian et al. [18], a method to encapsulate
phenolic compounds extracted from olive pomace is presented. The
polyphenol-rich nanoparticles produced can be potentially used in
the formulation of novel food or nutraceutical products.
Common spruce (Picea abies L.) is a large evergreen coniferous
species. This fast-growing tree plays an important economical role
in several countries where its wood is widely used for the produc-
tion of sawn timber and pulp. During this process, large quantities
of barks are generated as waste materials and usually recycled.
The aim of the work of Angelis and his team [19] was the bio-
guided investigation and the effective recovery of methanol-soluble
metabolites of common spruce bark for the development of new
dermocosmetic agents.
The recovered compound E-astringin, was found to induce con-
siderably the tyrosinase activity, demonstrated important anti-colla-
genase and antimicrobial activity, whereas the recovered taxifolin,
and taxifolin-30 -O-glucopyranoside illustrated significant anti-colla-
genase and antimicrobial activities, important anti-tyrosinase and
antibacterial activity.
518 © 2019 Society of Cosmetic Scientists and the Soci
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There are cases that the waste materials can cause problems
when discarded. A representative example is the Cocoa pod
extracts. Cocoa pods are waste materials of cocoa plantation and
when discarded, a suitable breeding can be created for Phytophthora
palmivora which is regarded as the causal agents of the black pod
disease. Cocoa pod extracts were tested as potential ingredients to
reduce wrinkles. More specifically, skin wrinkles reduced at
6.38  1.23% with the application of the gel containing the
extracts within 3 weeks and considerably improved more
(12.39  1.59%) after 5 weeks. The skin hydration increased after
3 weeks of gel use. The functional skin properties of Cocoa pod
extracts are possibly attributed to the antioxidant compounds that
contain acids such as malic acid, procyanidin B, rosmarinic acid,
procyanidin C, apigenin and ellagic acid. Consequently, Cocoa pod
extracts can be included in anti-wrinkle products with significant
results in skin after prolonged application and save the plantation
floors from the harmful pods [4].
Glycerol, (glycerine, propane-1,2,3-triol) is the major by-product
of biodiesel production based on the homogeneous alkaline cat-
alytic transesterification reaction, or from saponification and
hydrolysis reactions in oleochemical plants [20,21]. Owing to the
general growth of renewable energy demand, global biodiesel pro-
duction capacity has been increasing rapidly. As a result, the
amount of glycerol is rising and there is little market value cur-
rently for unrefined glycerol. Furthermore, disposal of this material
using conventional methods turns out to be an important environ-
mental issue and a burden for biodiesel manufacturers. Therefore,
utilization of purified glycerol in value-added applications such as
food processing, cosmetics, soap and pharmaceuticals is vital to
achieve economic scale of biodiesel production [21].
Glycerol is a material with a variety of uses in pharmaceutical,
cosmetic and food industries. It is a non-toxic, edible, biodegradable
compound, thus, it will provide important environmental benefits
to the new platform products. Consequently, glycerol is widely used
in the manufacture of drugs, biomedical and pharmaceuticals for
the purpose of dissolving drugs, providing the pills humidity and
increasing the viscosity of liquid drugs. It is used in cough syrups,
ear infection medicines, as a carrier for antibiotics and antiseptics
and plasticizers for medicine capsules [22,23]. Glycerol is also
incorporated in personal care formulations, mainly as lubricant,
improving smoothness and as a humectant and moistener in many
skin and hair care products where moisturization is needed [22].
Besides, glycerol is the major ingredient of cosmetics i.e. tooth-
pastes to prevent hardening and drying out in the tube, thus,
toothpastes are estimated to make up almost one-third of the per-
sonal care market for glycerol [23].
Chitin-nanofibrils-CN from crustaceans, are slender rods with
diameter and length of 30–40 and 600 nm, respectively. They are
the purest crystal form of chitin. This natural, renewable and
biodegradable block copolymer consists of N-glucosamine and N-
acetyl-D-glucosamine units attached to each other through b(14)
glycosidic bonds. Each chitin nanofiber is composed of linear inter-
twined chitin chains containing about 18–25 units.
Chitin-nanofibrils (CN) are able to incorporate ingredients with
skin personal care/pharmaceutical or biomedical activity within its
structure, successively releasing them by simple diffusion at the
appropriate body site in function of the CN-complex used, the
specifically designed laboratory conditions in which the complex is
formed, its biodegradability and bio-availability. Depending on the
typology of the scaffold or the carrier, in the form of gel, fibre or
porous matrix, the CN-complex acquired may be used for skin and
International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 41, 517–525
Renewable sources and cosmetics
mucous membrane hydration, bone regeneration or for an antiage-
ing or anti-acne cosmetic therapy [24–27].
The CN-antioxidant/immunomodulant complexes itself have
shown great efficacy as anti-ageing agent [28], whereas the same
complexes used by different carriers, improve skin conditions as
mild to severe xerosis [29]. Moreover CN, complexed with nicoti-
namide and linoleic acid-rich phosphatidyl-choline, increases the
efficacy of anti-acne products [30,31].
Levulinic acid, has been identified as a significant platform mole-
cule for the manufacture of fragrances, oil additives, pharmaceuti-
cals, plasticizers and besides is used as solvent [11]. It can be
produced chemically using renewable resources such as starch waste
and lignocellulosic biomass [32–34] which seems to be an interesting
alternative due to its abundance and being environmentally friendly.
Owing to its acidic carboxyl and ketone carbonyl groups Levulinic
acid is very reactive and can form several derivatives with important
applications in various fields. Moreover, Morone et al. [35] analysed
the Levulinic acid production from renewable waste resources,
described the Bottlenecks, potential remedies, advancements and
depicted current and future applications.
Fatty alcohols, with a billion-dollar market globally, have been
used as raw materials for detergents, emulsifiers, lubricants, cos-
metics and also have potentials to be used as fuels. A fatty alcohol-
producing Saccharomyces cereviase strain was engineered in the
study of Guo to produce 1-hexadecanol from xylose. Through fed-
batch fermentation, the highest titter of 1-hexadecanol reached
1.2 g L1 using exclusively xylose as carbon source. This study
was indicative of the achievement of xylose-based fatty alcohol in
Saccharomyces cereviase with potential appliances in developing con-
solidated bioprocessing for the production of fatty acid-based chemi-
cals [36].
A distinctive example of utilization of glycerol is the production
of 1,3 propanediol by fermentation using glycerol as the feedstock.
1,3-propanediol is a simple organic molecule and it has a variety of
applications in the production of polymers, cosmetics, foods, lubri-
cants and medicines [37]. Since production of 1,3-propanediol is
limited and the costs are higher, glycerol has become a smart feed-
stock for the production due to its lower prices and present in
abundance. 1,3-propanediol can be produced from glycerol via sev-
eral reactions such as fermentation dehydroxylation and
hydrogenolysis [20].
Squalene is a highly unsaturated hydrocarbon from triterpenoid
family, first found as a major component of the liver oil of certain
varieties of deep-sea sharks. In human skin, squalene is not only
used as an antioxidant, moisturizer and material for topically
applied vehicle, but is also in treating skin disorders like seborrheic
dermatitis, acne, psoriasis or atopic dermatitis. Squalene is widely
present as a component of the unsaponifiable fraction of vegetable
oils such as olive oil and amaranth oil. The latter seems to be the
key source of squalene. Amaranth grains contain 7–7.7% lipids,
and these lipids are extremely valuable because of the presence of
ingredients like squalene, unsaturated fatty acids, vitamin E as
tocopherols, tocotrienols and phytosterols, which are not seen
together in other common oils [38]. It should be noted that in cos-
metics squalane is used (the reduced form of Squalene) that is an
easily incorporated antioxidant compound, used in emulsions and
anhydrous products offering oiliness and softness attributes.
It is used in a wide variety of formulations including bath oils,
hair products, eye makeup, makeup foundations, lipstick, suntan
and sunscreen products, body powders, nail products and in cleans-
ing, moisturizing, and skin care products. Rhodopseudomonas
© 2019 Society of Cosmetic Scientists and the Soci
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International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 41, 517–525
F. Mellou et al.
palustris TIE-1 was used as the host for squalene production.
Rhodopseudomonas palustris has the ability to get growing photosyn-
thetically using solar energy and carbon dioxide from atmosphere.
The deletion of the shc gene of the microorganism resulted in a
squalene production of 3.8 mg g1 DCW, which was 27 times
higher than that in the wild-type strain. For constructing a sub-
strate channel to improve the conversion effectiveness, Xu et al.
tried to fuse crtE gene with hpnD gene. As a result of fusing the
two genes, squalene content was increased to 12.6 mg g1 DCW,
which was 27.4% higher than that resulted from the co-expression
method. Finally, the titter of squalene reached 15.8 mg g1 DCW
by co-expressing the dxs gene, corresponding to 112-fold increase
relative to that for wild-type strain. This study proposed novel
strategies for improving squalene yield and demonstrated the
potential of producing squalene by Rhodopseudomonas palustris [39].
Another class of cosmetic ingredients that are produced by
renewable resources is biosurfactants. They are produced by vari-
ous microorganisms (bacteria, yeasts and fungi and recently micro-
bial enzymes) by biotechnological means. The numerous
advantages of these materials have prompted applications not only
in cosmetic, pharmaceutical and food industries but also in the pro-
tection of environment and energy saving technology. They have
obvious advantages to the chemically synthesized analogues such
as, higher biodegradability, gradual adsorption and greater ability
to form assembly and liquid crystal. In addition, they have antimi-
crobial and antitumour effects. Biosurfactants are generally classi-
fied into glycolipids, lipopeptides, phospholipids, fatty acids and
polymeric compounds. They are incorporated in several formulas
as lip rouge, lip cream, eye shadow and compressed powder cos-
metics, deodorants, nail care products, skin care smoothing prod-
ucts, anti-ageing skin care products, cosmetic cleansing and anti-
wrinkle products [40].
Emulsan, lipomanan, alasan, liposan and other polysaccharide
protein complexes are examples of the best-studied polymeric bio-
surfactants. Particularly, Emulsan is an emulsifier for hydrocarbons
in water at low concentrations [41,42], whereas Liposan is an
extracellular water-soluble emulsifier produced by C. lipolytica and
suggested as an emulsifier in the food and cosmetic industries [43].
Particulate biosurfactants partition extracellular membrane vesi-
cles forming a microemulsion that affects alkane uptake in micro-
bial cells. For example, the Acinetobacter spp. has vesicles with a
diameter of 20–50 nm and a buoyant density of 1.158 cubic gcm
composed of proteins, phospholipids, and lipo-polysaccharides
[43,44].
Some more characteristics common to the majority of biosurfac-
tants and have advantages over conventional surfactants, are effi-
ciency (measured by the CMC) and effectiveness which is related to
surface and interfacial tensions [44,45].
Many biosurfactants can be used at high temperatures and pH
values ranging from 2 to 12. They also tolerate a salt concentra-
tion up to 10%, whereas 2% NaCl is enough to inactivate synthetic
surfactants. Biosurfactants are easily degraded by microorganisms
in water and soil, thus they are adequate for bioremediation and
waste treatment. Low degree of toxicity allows their exploitation in
foods, cosmetics and pharmaceuticals and in environmental appli-
cations. Biosurfactants can be produced from largely available raw
materials as well as industrial waste. Their biocompatibility and
digestibility allow the use of biomolecules in different industries,
especially the food, pharmaceutical and cosmetic industries.
The aforementioned Liposan, which is a water-soluble emulsifier
synthesized by Centella lipolytica, has been used with edible oils to
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Renewable sources and cosmetics
form stable emulsions. Thus, is commonly used in the cosmetic
and food industries for producing stable oil/water emulsions
[46,47].
Some of the most commonly employed industrial waste products
for biosurfactant production are Olive Oil Mill Effluent, Animal Fat,
Frying Oils, Soapstocks, Molasses, Whey, Corn Steep Liquor, Star-
chy Substrates, whereas some applications of biosurfactants for
industrial uses are cosmetics health and beauty products, emulsifi-
cation, foaming agents, solubilization, wetting agents, cleansers,
antimicrobial agents, mediators of enzyme action [44,48].
The results presented in the detailed study of Bai and McCle-
ments [49] show that rhamnolipids are effective natural surfactants
under certain environmental conditions, and may therefore be suit-
able for utilization in a variety of commercial emulsion-based prod-
ucts such as those produced by the food, beverage, cosmetics,
personal care, and pharmaceutical industries [50] to provide desir-
able physicochemical, sensory or biological attributes to products,
such as appearance, texture, stability or delivery [49,51,52].
Lipid nanoparticles are well accepted by the human body
[53,54] and are used as vehicles delivering many active com-
pounds in pharmaceutics and cosmetics [55–58]. The ability of
both kinds of lipid nanoparticles (of Solid Lipid Nanoparticles-SLNs
and Nanostructured lipid carriers-NLCs type) to enhance the photo-
protection by synergistically combining of the organic UV absorbers
and different lipid mixtures has been shown [59,60].
Lacatusu et al., prepared different lipid nanocarriers with a natu-
ral oil from vegetal area – Grape seed oil, which manifested effec-
tive antibacterial and antioxidant properties [61] and provided a
better sustained release of active compound than lipid nanocarriers
prepared with individual oil or conventional nanoemulsions
[62,63].
Algal biomass can be used as a source for natural bioactive com-
pounds as an alternative to synthetic components. Algae contain
many groups of active compounds such as polysaccharides, pig-
ments, polyphenols, lipids (including polyunsaturated fatty acids),
plant growth-promoting substances, peptides and proteins, vitamins
and minerals. These compounds are characterized by antioxidant,
anticancer, antiviral, anticoagulant, antidiabetic, anti-allergic, anti-
inflammatory, antihypertensive and antibacterial properties and are
described in detail in the literature [64–70] Polysaccharides act
mostly as thickeners, emulsion stabilizers, protective colloids, gel-
ling, moisturizing and chelating factors. They are characterized as
antioxidative, anticellulite, antiviral, anti-inflammatory and anti-
ageing agents. Proteins and their derivatives have antioxidant,
chelating, antibacterial, antiviral, antifungal and anti-inflammatory
properties. They are also incorporated as moisturizers and natural
sun screeners. Algal lipids, phenolics and pigments are antioxidant,
antiageing, anti-wrinkle, anti-allergic, anti-inflammatory as well as
antimicrobial compounds. Phenolic compounds are also used as
natural UV screens [71–73].
Algae in cosmetics can be used in micronized form or as
extracts. It should be underlined that commercialization of algal-
based cosmetics is a complex matter and requires the products to
be tested. The standardization of the % composition in ingredients
(active or not) is a difficult procedure as for all products of natural
origin. Products based on algae should be prepared in accordance
with the set of rules and standards. Taking into account the dan-
gers of contaminants in these ingredients such as pesticides and
heavy metals [74,75], a multi-technique and multi-stage approach
is required in order to obtain the high value and safety of algae-
based products for the cosmetic industry [71]. Extracts of algal
520 © 2019 Society of Cosmetic Scientists and the Soci
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biomass produced with the classical methods of extraction with a
suitably selected solvent (ethyl alcohol, propylene glycol, vegetable
oils) are the primary sources of bioactive components for the cos-
metics industry. However, as it was shown, supercritical fluid
extraction (SPE) with carbon dioxide which is considered as a
‘green solvent’ can be more efficient in the extraction of biologi-
cally active compounds than conventional techniques. The fatty
acid content in the dry matter of the extract obtained from fresh-
water Cladophora glomerata varied depending on the extraction
method used: ethylene alcohol (19%), acetone (35%) or SPE (63%)
[76]. Schroeder et al. [77] discussed process optimization for the
production of supercritical algal extracts in three areas: biomass
harvesting from the natural environment, extraction with carbon
dioxide under supercritical conditions and formal requirements,
enabling the use of an extract for commercial purposes as a compo-
nent of cosmetic preparations [78].
A number of secondary metabolites obtained from algae are
known for their skin benefits [79]. Fucus vesiculosus extract is used
for the decrease of dark circles on the skin area under the eye by
stimulating the expression of haeme oxygenase-l (HO-l), a molecule
that eliminates the haeme production on the skin by removing
haeme catabolites. The anti-inflammatory activity and antioxidant
properties of the extract in topical formulations could improve ‘eye
bags’, and stimulate collagen production thus reducing fine lines
and wrinkles.
Selected extracts were obtained from two terrestrial sources: win-
ery by-products concentrate (WBC) and chestnut burs hydrother-
mally fractionated extract (CBAE), and from two underutilized
seaweeds: Sargassum muticum extracts, either extracted with etha-
nol (SmEE) or after alginate extraction and hydrothermal fractiona-
tion (SmAE) and from Ulva lactuca processed by mild acid
extraction and membrane concentration (UlAE). These extracts
showed in vitro antioxidant properties comparable to commercial
antioxidants and were safe for topical use based on the absence of
irritation at 0.1% on reconstructed human tissues. The stability of
several cosmetic model emulsions was assessed during accelerated
oxidation assays. The incorporation into cosmetic formulas and the
protection provided in emulsions offers new valuable information
with regard to a practical promising utilization of these extracts.
Compared to synthetic antioxidants, the extracts used in this study
could be added at higher levels due to their non-toxic nature,
though all the expected tests will be performed according to the
legislation frame so as to ensure safety. They have been proposed
for cosmetic preparations for their concomitant bioactivities [80].
Extracts of red microalgae can be found in skin care, sun protec-
tion, hair care, emollient, refreshing or regenerate care products,
anti-ageing creams and anti-irritant in peelers [81–84].
The use of cyanobacteria in sunscreen formulation presented
better absorption in UVB-UVA region (290–400 nm) in relation to
a commercial formulation, and also good absorption in the visible
spectral region (400–650 nm) [85]. Cosmetics containing Porphyra
have shown more skin gloss and moist feel actions when compared
to the control. Squalene, derived from Thraustochytrium, Auranti-
ochytrium and Schizochytrium, is added in cosmetics to stimulate
ideal skin properties as it is non-toxic, non-irritating and non-sensi-
tizing, stimulating antistatic and emollient actions in moisturizing
creams and pharmaceutical preparations.
Sun screen and anti-ageing formulations that contain species of
microalgae Chlorella genus, consisting of predominantly intact
microalgal cells and containing oil obtained by dry weight, have
also been shown to soften and flexibilize both skin and hair [86].
International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 41, 517–525
Renewable sources and cosmetics
Pure extract of Nannochloropsis oculata, which contains zeaxan-
thin, an antityrosinase substance, was patented to be used in
bleaching emulsions.
The blue green alga Spirulina platensis geitler has a soft cell wall
made up from complex sugars and protein so that it is easily
digested. It has 62% amino acid content and it is rich natural
source of Vitamin B12, carotenoids and xanthophyll phytopig-
ments. Therefore, the cultivation of Spirulina has been of great
importance in cosmetic and pharmaceutical industry. Hair care
cosmetics with Spirulina have presented moisturizing feeling, gloss,
smooth combing and good sensorial property. Phycocyanin
extracted from Spirulina-commercially known as ‘lina blue’ is used
as colourant for food and cosmetics.
Phycocyanin is water soluble, strongly fluorescent and has
antioxidant properties. Application of phycocyanin and related phy-
cobili proteins of cyanobacteria in cosmetics like lipstick, eyeliners,
etc., is gaining great importance since the use of natural colours
from microalgae is becoming more accepted as they are non-toxic
with no bad influence on the environment and are renewable
sources of raw material. Phycocyanin specifically is used as a dye
in food industry (ice creams, candies, non-alcoholic beverages and
dietary foodstuffs), cosmetics and pharmaceuticals [87].
Dunaliella salina is a salt-tolerant, wall-less unicellural member of
Chlorophyceae which has drawn attention of microalgal industry
due to its ability to produce large quantities of glycerol and b-caro-
tene (precursor of vitamin A). Dunaliella salina is suitable for com-
mercial production of b-carotene. Porphyridium is one of the few
genera of unicellular Rhodophycean member. It has a high content
of polysaccharides and essential fatty acids which have drawn
attention to its potential as a source of valuable chemicals such as
gelling agents, thickeners, stabilizers and emulsifiers. This unicellu-
lar alga has an advantage over the macroalgae due to its relatively
faster growth rate and the possibility to regulate its growth [88].
In conclusion, this revision demonstrated a variety of substances
that are originated from natural resources either as by-products by
several industries or produced biosynthetically, for the development
of cosmetics products with commercial purposes. The possibility of
using the same raw material for producing cosmetics, pharmaceuti-
cals and biomedical products and to reduce pollution and transform
waste materials into goods is challenging. The standardization of
the production and purification processes, has to be improved, in
order to have always the same characteristics of quality from one
batch of by-product to the other.
The quality, efficacy and safety of these products have to be
carefully regulated. Low productivity and expensive downstream
processing restrict sometimes the use of such ingredients to great
extent. Attention has to be given to the improvement of efficiently
and eco-friendly methods for the exploitation of these renewable
sources according to green chemistry and sustainable development
concepts.
A variety of products that contain ingredients obtained by (bio)
fermentation are present in market. For example, polysaccharides
are obtained by bacterial fermentation as well as natural herbs are
fermented to acquire phytochemicals that play specific roles in the
ability to help decrease the appearance of cellulite, or products that
promote both procollagen and hyaluronic acid synthesis, claims of
skin smoothing, calming and reduction of sunburn pain, etc.
Fermentation may increase the physiological and bio-chemical
activities of biological substrates by modifying their naturally
occurring molecules [89]. Furthermore, fermentation with various
species of microorganisms can decrease the cytotoxicity of herbal
© 2019 Society of Cosmetic Scientists and the Soci
et
e Francßaise de Cosm
etologie
International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 41, 517–525
F. Mellou et al.
extracts or generate a wide spectrum of antibacterial activities
[90,91]. For example, some probiotics have the potential to pro-
duce new antioxidative ingredients or reduce the cytotoxicity of
herb extracts by fermentation [89,92].
Fermenting the plants with yeast or bacteria in general, or, in
addition, by striking the bacteria with specific wavelengths of UV
radiation leads to the isolation of beneficial components and
increases the bio-availability of the phytocompounds.
Schizophyllan (SPG) is an active compound that is derived by
biotechnological processing (of selected Schizophyllum Communae
strain) and its use in cosmetics has been proven by a variety of
patents concerning skin care formulations. SPG and other 1-3, 1-6
glucans with analogous structure are used in cosmetic and phar-
maceutical applications for their immune stimulating activity [93].
Stimulating activity of glucans is configured by triplehelical confor-
mation [94] and it depends on molecular weight as well. Molecular
weights between 500 kDa and 1,1 MDa were less effective than
glucans with higher, respectively, lower MW [95]. Immune stimu-
lating activity of SPG remains also during long-term application,
however at high dosages the production of TNF-a is reduced and
thus immune stimulating effect [96] is decreased. Intraperitoneal
application of schizophyllan, as well as other b-glucans, increased
toxicity of peroral application of unsteroid anti-inflammatory drugs,
namely indomethacin [97]. Moreover, Schizophyllan exhibits
antiviral effect [98] as well as multiple biological action [99–113].
Activation of immune cells can eliminate the negative influence
of UV irradiation, which can be successfully used in sun tan cos-
metics, daily cosmetics, anti-acne cosmetics, etc [99] and its mech-
anisms of action could be accepted by the regulatory authorities for
cosmetic products.
Besides, another active ingredient of biotechnological origin for
the cosmetic industry is hyaluronic acid with molecular weight
below 1MDa (LMW Hyaluronic acid) which is produced by fermen-
tation using hyaluronic acid with standard molecular weight as
starting material, that is split by a controlled combination of differ-
ent physical methods to desired molecular weight.
Figure 1 Decrease in the mean basal values of average roughness and
average maximum roughness after 6 weeks application of the prepared for-
mulation.
521
Renewable sources and cosmetics F. Mellou et al.

LMW Hyaluronic acid is biologically active as demonstrated by its
ability to actuate integral immune defence mechanisms and pro-
motes cytokine production. A moist environment provided by LMW
Hyaluronic acid’s hydrophilic nature allows for affects on cellular
behaviour. Several medical applications, including wound care, have
seen improvements as a result of leukocyte, fibroblast and endothelial
cell migration and activation. The interaction in the extracellular
matrix provides a backbone for proteoglycans and an association
with collagen and fibrin. Biological interactions of hyaluronic acid
include effects on cell proliferation, recognition and locomotion along
with angiogenesis and inflammatory cell activity [114].
For example, a cream formulation prepared by us, containing
Schizophyllan and LMW Hyaluronic acid (0.02 and 0.05% respec-
tively) was evaluated for its activity. The anti-wrinkle efficacy of
the above cream after repeated application was evaluated for its
influence on human skin hydration (MPA5 software), elasticity
(Cutometer SEM 575 Courage and Khazaka) and skin roughness
(Skin Visioscan VC98 Courage and Khazaka) by biophysical meth-
ods. Twenty healthy human volunteers after signing consent were
occupied for the time period required. Finally, statistical evaluation
by t-test was performed.
Results showed a statistically significant increase in the mean
basal values of skin hydration detected after 6 weeks of treatment.
Specifically, skin hydration was increased by 46.9 (std. dev. 11.5)
with P < 0.0001, compared to control. The efficacy of the product
was checked by the improvement in skin elasticity parameters and
a statistically significant decrease in the mean basal values of maxi-
mal deformation (R0) was evidenced after the same period of treat-
ment showing a decrease in 12.4% (std. dev. 0.071) and P < 0.01,
whereas a statistically significant increase by 8.9% (std. dev.
0.094) and P < 0.01 in the mean basal values of overall elasticity
(R2) was detected after 6 weeks of use. However, no statistically
significant variation in the mean basal values of viscoelastic ratio
(R6) was evidenced after an equivalent time of treatment demon-
strating an increase in 1.2% (std. dev. 0.057) with P > 0.05 com-
pared to control.
A statistically significant decrease in the mean basal values of
average roughness (Ra) by 9.9% (std. dev. 11.2), (P < 0.01) plus
of average maximum roughness (Rz) by 9.3% (std. dev. 529.8),
(P < 0.001) compared to control was evidenced after the aforemen-
tioned period of treatment (Fig. 1). Based on the above results,
experiments are in progress including skin biopsies of human vol-
unteers in order to explore the skin alteration due to the simultane-
ous application of Schizophyllan and LMW Hyaluronic acid.
Conclusion
This revision displayed a variety of substances that are originated
from natural resources, for the development of cosmetics products.
The prospect of using the same raw material for generating per-
sonal care, pharmaceuticals and biomedical products thus reducing
pollution and transform waste materials into useful substances is of
great importance.
The quality, efficiency and safety of these products have to be
carefully controlled. Moreover, the production has to be both eco-
logically and economically favoured.
Acknowledgement
We thank Frezyderm S.A. for the support of the experimental part.

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