Knitting Manual 1. Fundamentals - Draft 1

PREPARED BY: KANNAN T
TEXCOMS TEXTILE SOLUTIONS
KNITTING MANUAL
Fundamentals
Company Name: Doc No.:
የኢትዮጵያጨርቃጨርቅእንዱስትሪልማትኢንስቲትዩት TM/ET-01
Ethiopian Textile Industry Development Institute
Document Title: Issue No.: Page
የቴክኒክማማከርአገልግሎትዳሰሳጥናትሪፖረትእናየድርጊትመርሃግብር 1 1 of 27
Technical Consultancy Service Manual
Table of Contents
Objective______________________________________________________________________3
1 Knitting Technology an Introduction_______________________________________________4
1.1 Major classification of knits_________________________________________________________4
1.1.1 Single Jersey:_________________________________________________________________________6
1.1.2 Double jersey:__________________________________________________________________6
1.2 Knitting Elements:_________________________________________________________________8
1.2.1 Needles:_____________________________________________________________________________8
1.2.2 Sinkers_____________________________________________________________________________10
1.2.3 Loop / Stitch:________________________________________________________________________11
1.2.3.1 Parts of a loop____________________________________________________________________12
1.2.3.2Needle loop:_____________________________________________________________________12
1.2.3.3 Sinker loop:______________________________________________________________________12
1.2.3.4 Open loop:______________________________________________________________________13
1.2.3.5 Closed loop:_____________________________________________________________________13
1.2.4 Wales& Courses:_____________________________________________________________________13
1.2.5 Stitch density________________________________________________________________________17
2. Classification Of Knitting Machines:______________________________________________17

3. Properties of knitted fabrics___________________________________________________18
3.1 Shrinkage.______________________________________________________________________18
3.2 Elongation______________________________________________________________________19
3.3 Curling_________________________________________________________________________19
3.4 Spirality / Skew__________________________________________________________________20
4. Productivity of circular knitting._________________________________________________21
4.1 Loop Length or Stitch length,_______________________________________________________21
4.2 Course length:___________________________________________________________________21
4.3 Count__________________________________________________________________________22
4.4 Feeders________________________________________________________________________22
4.5Single Jersey machine Production calculation__________________________________________23
4.6 Rib machine Production calculation_________________________________________________24
4.7 Interlock machine Production calculation_____________________________________________25
እባክዎበዚህሰነድከመጠቀምዎበፊትትክክለኛመሆኑንያረጋግጡ
PLEASE MAKE SURE THAT THIS IS THE CORRECT ISSUE BEFORE USE
Table of media
Media 1What is knitting?.................................................................................................................4
Media 2 Loop Formation..................................................................................................................4
Media 3 Basics of Single Jersey knitting..........................................................................................6
Media 4 Interlock knit......................................................................................................................7
Media 5 Rib knit...............................................................................................................................7
Media 6 Latch Needle.......................................................................................................................9
Media 7 Bearded Needle..................................................................................................................9
Media 8 Sinker Operation...............................................................................................................11
Media 9 Loop formation.................................................................................................................14
Media 10 Needle - Sinker function................................................................................................15
Media 11Latch Needle....................................................................................................................16
Media 12Bearded Needle...............................................................................................................16
Media 13 Compound Needle..........................................................................................................16
Media 14 Transfer Needle..............................................................................................................16
Media 15 Purl knit..........................................................................................................................16
Media 16 Relaknit..........................................................................................................................17
Objective
 This manual is prepared for the beginners and those who want to know the fundamentals
of knitting and its process in the textile industry.
 It is prepared as an introductory and training material for nontechnical people from
operators to the supervisor level, those who is deputed as trainee ar just joined the work.
 The manual makes them understand more on practical aspects than technology of knitting
 It helps in understanding day to day factors the come across in handling the knitting
machine, production, etc.,
 Once they if is understood, the get initial knowledge and awareness about knitting.
 Further in depth detailed training and technology material is explained in the next manual.
1 Knitting Technology an Introduction

Knitting is practiced for around 2000 years by hand knitting. Knit process is the fastest and
easiest way of making the yarn into fabric. Knit fabric differs from woven fabric by appearance,
texture, construction and performance. Define what is knitting mean?
Knitted fabrics produced by interlacing of loops by using knitting elements. Knitted fabrics
unlike any other textile material is the most elastic one in nature, because of the basic element
called “Loop”. The loop is the fundamental element in all knitted fabric.
Knitted fabric is formed by the linking the series of loops, whatever may be the type of machine
used. The combination of loop makes unlimited structures, appearances, varieties. The machines
are designed to make such structures.
Media 1What is knitting?
Media 2Loop Formation
1.1 Major classification of knits
What are your criteria to classify knitting? And also write the 3rd one warp
knitting i.e. crotchet
fk
e
W
g
it
n
K Company Name:
የኢትዮጵያጨርቃጨርቅእንዱስትሪልማትኢንስቲትዩት
Document Title:
የቴክኒክማማከርአገልግሎትዳሰሳጥናትሪፖረትእናየድርጊትመርሃግብር
Doc No.:
TM/ET-01
Issue No.:
1
In principle, there are two broad classifications of knitting processes namely, Weft Knitting And
Warp Knitting wh
There are two basic structures in Knitting Single Jersey and Double Jersey. Basic knitting
structures are plain, rib, purl and interlock. So make correction?
Page
5 of 27
1.1.1 Single Jersey:

Write the single jersey design and needle arrangement 1st and definition also and the same thing
other basic structures?

Single jersey is a one-sided fabric and has a face and back. The single jersey consists of needle &
loop sinker loop formed by the two knitting elements called needle and sinker. Face of the fabric
is predominantly seen with Needle loop( “V” shaped) and the back of the loop is identified with
sinker loop.
Media 3Basics of Single Jersey knitting
1.1.2 Double jersey:
Interlock Rib
Media 4 Interlock knit
Media 5Rib knit
Double jersey fabric has both sides as face. Double jersey is seen with needle loop on both sides
formed by two set of needles called Cylinder needle and dial needle. Basic structures of Double
jersey are Interlock and Rib. In Interlock cylinder and dial needle are in line with each other and
act alternatively. In Rib the cylinder and dial needles are offset with each other, thus can work
simultaneously. In general production is Rib structure makes double the loops when compared to
Interlock.
Comparison of Single Jersey & Double Jersey

Subject Single Jersey Fabric Double Jersey Fabric
Set of Fabric is formed by one set of Fabric is produced by two sets of
1
needle used needles. needles.
Face side and back side Face side and back side appearance is
2 Appearance
appearance is different. same.
Curling
3 Fabric has curling tendency. There no curling tendency.
tendency
4 Fabric Balance Fabric is unbalanced. Double jersey is balanced.
Thickness and weight of single

Thickness and Thickness and weight of Double
5 jersey is half of double jersey
weight jersey is twice of single fabric.
fabric.
Laddering Single jersey has laddering
6 There no laddering problem.
problem problem.
Feed yarn
7 Can take inferior yarn Need superior yarn quality
quality
Cost of Less expensive than double Double jersey is more expensive than
8
manufacture jersey. single jersey.
1.2 Knitting Elements:
1.2.1 Needles:
The main loop forming element in the knitting process is needles. After invention of needles only
the knitting technique had developed and various types of fabric were produced.
There are two popular types of needles used in knitting machines Latch needle &bearded
needle. Commonly there are 3types of needles namely latch, bearded and compound needles
.so write the three needles different and which machine is to used
Video clip attached for Bearded needle loop formation
Video clip attached for Latch needle loop formation
Latch Needle Bearded Needle
Media 6Latch Needle
Media 7Bearded Needle
The latch needle is most commonly used in weft knitting machines whereas bearded needle
predominantly used in warp knitting. The major difference in operation between the two needles,
is that bearded needle cannot form loop on its own it requires the assistance of presser to close the
beard to permit the interlacing of loops. The latch needle is capable of forming and intermeshing
loops without assistance. In both warp and weft knitting, the basic construction of the fabric is
produced by looping.
SN Latch needle Bearded needle

It contains a hook portion at the top & a latch
This needle consists of a top hook curved
1 reverted at certain distance from the needle
downwards with a finished tip.
head.
2 The main element of knitting is latch. The downward continuation is called beard.
The spring bearded needles are not self-
3 The latch needles are self-acting.
acting type.
Do not need outside agency to close the
4 It requires pressure to close the needle.
hook.
Machine gauge is coarser then spring bearded
5 Machine gauge is finer then latch needle.
needle.
6 This one is not simple type needle. Simple type of needle.
7 It has reduced stroke. It has more stroke than latch needle.
8 Most widely used in weft knitting. More widely used in warp knitting.
9 Complicated operating system. Easy operating system.
The latch needle is more expensive & The spring bearded needle is less expensive
10
intricate needle. than latch needle
The bearded or spring needle was the first type of needle to be produced. It is the cheapest and
simplest type to manufacture as it is made from a single piece of metal.In machine gauges as fine
as 60 needles per inch, with the needles being pliered to ensure accurate needle spacing. The
flexible hooked loop holder which is capable of enclosing, with an external presser, the newly
formed loop in order to draw it through the previously formed.
1.2.2 Sinkers
The sinker is the second primary knitting element. It is a thin metal plate with an individual or a
collective action operating approximately at right angles from the hook side of the needle bed,
between adjacent needles. Write the function and the type of sinkers?
Media 8Sinker Operation
1.2.3 Loop / Stitch:

A knitted fabric consists of serious of inter connecting loops arranged in a row in such a way that
each row of loops intermeshes with and hangs from proceeding one. It is usual to refer to a loop
as a “stitch’ when it has been meshed with another and forms part of the fabric.
The basic element in a knitted fabric is a stitch or loop. A loop got two faces namely face loop
and back loop. A series or column of loops intermeshing vertically or along the fabric length is
called wales. A series or a row of loops intermeshing horizontally or along the fabric width is
called a course .These two parameters namely courses and Wales are also commonly used to
specify knitted fabric quality.
1.2.3.1 Parts of a loop

Each knit stitch (knit loop) is a basic unit for the knitted goods
a : Head or Crown or top arc
b : Side limbs or Legs
c&d : Bottom arc or Sinker loop
1.2.3.2Needle loop:
Needle loop is the upper part of the loop produced by the needle drawing the yarn.
1.2.3.3 Sinker loop:

The lower part of the knitted loop (In single jersey structure) is technically referred as sinker
loop. It is the connection of two legs belonging to neighbouring stitches lying laterally.
1.2.3.4 Open loop:

The open loop (formed in warp knitting) is one in which the loop forming yarns do not cross at
the bottom of the loop.
1.2.3.5 Closed loop:

In closed loop( formed in Warp knitting) the legs cross at the bottom, so that the loop closing
takes place.
1.2.4 Wales& Courses:
The
series
of
loops
conne
cted
horiz
ontall
y are
called
cours
The series of loops that intermeshes
vertically are known as wales.
Stagesof knitting cycles.
Media 9 Loop formation
Run in : The needle is in low or rest position with holding the loop of previous course
known as the old loop.
Raising : The needle commence to raise the old loop opens the latch.
Clearing : The needle is raised to its highest position when the old loop is cleared from the
latch on to the stem of the needle.
Feeding : As the needles descends the yarn is fed into the path of hook after which the
continued decent of the needle causes the old loop to close the latch and overlap
the new yarns
Knock Over : Finally when the needle reaches its lowest position the old loop is knock over
the new loop is drawn through it.
Loop : We can adjust the stitch cam is vertically to allow the quality of the fabrics
varied.
Higher loop lengths low gsm, tight loop length gsm higher.
Media 10Needle- Sinker function.
Knit Loop formation techniques by various needle types
Media 11Latch Needle
Media 12Bearded Needle
Media 13Compound Needle
Media 14Transfer Needle
Media 15Purl knit
Media 16Relaknit
1.2.5 Stitch density

Stitch density refers to the total number of loops in a measured area of fabric.
It is the total number of needle loops in a given area (Example: square inch)
Stitch Density = Wales density x Courses density
=Wales per inch X Courses per inch
= WPI X CPI
Or,
Stitch Density = CPC x WPC (cm scale)
2. Classification Of Knitting Machines:
It is necessary to know the difference betweentwo separate systems of knitting i.e. Weft knitting
and Warp knitting.
In weft knitting, the series of loops are formed from threads inserted in horizontal direction. The
general direction of path of yarn is across the length of fabric. This is like a pick of weft in
weaving process.
Warp knitting on the other hand consists of loops formed in a vertical direction with separate
threads for each needle. The general direction of path of yarn is along the length of the fabric,
similar to that of warp in weaving. The basic loop needed for warp knitting has a different
configuration from the primary weft knitted loop.
SN Description Weft knitting Warp knitting

1 Thread direction to the fabric Horizontal. Vertical.
2 Path of Yarn to the fabric Across the length of fabric Along the length of fabric
Across the needles (course Along the needles
3 Path of yarn to needle
way) (wales way)
4 Elasticity Highly elastic Less elastic
5 Application Mostly apparel Mostly industrial
6 Strength Less More
7 Yarn feeding Directly from cones From warp beam
8 Fitted Garment Shaped garment possible Only sheet of fabric
9 Shrinkage in finishing High Low
a) Circular knitting.
b) Flat knitting
a) Tricot machines.
10 Classifications c) Socks knitting.
b) Raschel machines
d) Gloves knitting.
e) Seamless machines.
Warp knitting principle were vertical latch needles are working in conjunction with warp guide
bars between the needles spaces. The guide bars carrying the warp threads can swing collectively
from the back of the needle to the hook side, and then shog one space to the right or left. The
guides then return to the back of the needle forming a lap of the yarn around the open latch of the
needle. The stitch is completed by the collective downward movement of the needles when the
loop of the previous course is cast off and the new loop is drawn through it. If the warp guides
associates with the same needle at every course, no fabric would be produced, instead, each
needle would produce a separate chain of loops. Therefore there must be a side way connection
of these chains in order to produce a fabric.
This is achieved by a shogging movement of the warp guides at the back of the needles before
swinging through to the hook side of the needle. It will be observed in figure that the guide
containing the black yarn has associated with 1st and 2nd needles from the left at alternate courses,
producing the simplest of all warp knitted structures.
3. Properties of knitted fabrics
3.1 Shrinkage.
Knitted fabric unlike woven fabrics will shrink much to washing. To avoid this fabrics should be
pre-shrunk before it is made into garments.
3.2 Elongation
Knitted fabrics have more elongation when compare with woven fabrics. They have higher width
wise elongation of the order of 50% and lengthwise elongation of about 30%
3.3 Curling
In knitted fabric, single jersey will curl on both sides when it is cut, thus positioning while made
in to garments special sewing machines are needed to stitch knitted fabric because of the above
properties (curling and elongation),
Its elastic recovery property is most suitable for vests and briefs.
3.4 Spirality / Skew
Weft knitted structures are affected by various forms of dimensional distortion. Inclination and
distortion of loops within knitted structures are commonly known as skewness and spirality,
respectfully. They can basically be divided into two groups: material causes and process causes.
Material causes is yarn related and is caused by residual torque in the yarn shown by its twist-
liveliness.
Process causes is machine related and is connected to knitting with multiple feeders on the
circular knitting machine. Procedures for reduction or even elimination of the skewness/spirality
have continuously been developed and improved. Some of them include changes in raw material,
the others in mechanical processes and/or equipment while the other again concentrate on after-
treatments.
4. Productivity of circular knitting.

The productivity of the circular knitting machine is depends upon two factors 1) no of feeders in
the machine 2) speed of the machine. Normally the production of the knitting machine expressed
by weight in kilograms per day. Production in linear length for the knitted fabric is not generally
expressed because of its poor dimensional stability.
For the production calculations the following technical details are needed,
a) Stitch length in cm.
b) Course length in cm
c) Count of yarn in tex
d) No of feeders
e) Machine running speed (rpm)
f) No of needles in the machine.
4.1 Loop Length or Stitch length,
Loop length or Stitch length is the length of yarn consumed to produce one loop. It is measured
by marking hundred wales in a course ( yarn fed by any particular feeder) and unravelling the
yarn from that measured portion. The unravelled yarn is measured for its length in a straight line.
The obtained length is divided by the number of needles ie. 100. The result in millimetre is called
loop length.
Length of yean present in 100 needles of any particular course

Loop length in mm = ----------------------------------------------------------------------
100 (i.e .no of needle marked)
4.2 Course length:
Course length is the length of yarn knitted from any one feeder for one revolution of the cylinder.
It is measured by marking any one needle line (wale) and unravelling the yarn for one complete
revolution of machine (full circle of fabric).
loop length in mm X no of active needles at the particular feeder

Course length in m = -----------------------------------------------------------------------
1000
The course length is longer to measure in a straight line. So, it is measured on a board with
multiple turns through friction less rollers and giving a tension of approximately 4 grams to
straighten the yarn.
There are instruments to measure the course length and loop length online when the machine is
running.
4.3 Count
The count of the yarn indicates the weight per unit length or length per unit weight. There are two
systems for expressing the count of the yarn,1) indirect system and 2) Direct system.
In English(Ne) system the count denotes the no of 840 yds in one lbs,
In Direct (Tex) system the count denotes weight in grams of 1000m
The easy way to convert the yarn count from English systems to direct system of Tex.exmple if
we have 40Ne,we can change to tex .what about other system must be included here like denier
Nm dtex and others?
Tex = 590.5/Ne = 590.5/40s = 19.7 tex
where, 590.5 is a conversion factor.
4.4 Feeders
The no of yarn feed in the knitting mc. This is decided by the machinemanufacturer.
For example 30 inch diameter m/c having 90 feeders(i.e.3 feeders/ inch)
4.5Single Jersey machine Production calculation
SL × N × F × RPM ×60 × TEX

The production per hour = --------------------------------------------
1000 × 1000 × 1000
The production in kgs/hr @ 100% efficiency.

SL = Stitch length in mm,
N = No of needles present in the m/c.
F = No of feeders present in the m/c.
RPM = Running speed of the knitting mc
TEX = Count of yarn
60 = To convert revolution per hour
1000 = To convertmillimetre to meter
1000 = Tex yarn count length.
1000 = To convert gram to kilogram
Note: The best machine utilization is 85-90%&production efficiency is 80-85%
Example: The production in kg /hr @ 100% efficiency for a Single Jersey knitting machine is
SL = 3mm,
N = 2256.
F = 90.
RPM =26
TEX = 24sNe = 590.5/24 = 24.6 TEX
60 =To convert revolution per hour
1000 = To convert millimetre to meter
1000 =To convert gram to kilogram
3 × 2256 × 90 × 26 ×60 × 24.6

The production per hour = ------------------------------------------- = 23.375 kg/hr @100% Eff

1000 × 1000 × 1000
4.6 Rib machine Production calculation
SL × 2N × F × RPM ×60 × TEX

The production per hour = --------------------------------------------
1000 × 1000 × 1000
Production in kgs @ 100% efficiency.
2N = No of needles present in both cylinder &dial
F = No of feeders present in the mc.
RPM = Running speed of the knitting mc.
TEX = Count of yarn
60 = To convert revolution per hour.
1000 = To convert millimetre to meter.
1000 = To convert gram to kilogram.
Note: The best machine utilization is 85-90% & production efficiency is 80-85%
Note: Rib knitting machines are equipped with two type of needles i.e. dial and cylinder work on
every feeder.So we take total needles present in the respective knitting machine multiplied by 2
Example: The production in kgs/hr @ 100% efficiency for a Rib knitting machine is
SL = 2.9mm
2N = 2 x 1680
F = 60
RPM = 22.
TEX = 30sNe = 590.5/30 = 19.68 TEX
60 = To convert revolution per hour.
1000 = To convert millimetre to meter.
1000 = To convert gram to kilogram.
2.9 × 2 (1680) × 60 × 22 ×60 × 19.68

The production per hour = ----------------------------------------------- = 15.187 kg/hr @100% Eff
1000 × 1000 × 1000
4.7 Interlock machine Production calculation
SL × N × F × RPM ×60 × TEX

The production per hour = ------------------------------------------------
1000 × 1000 × 1000
The production in kgs/hr @ 100% efficiency.

N = No of needles active at respective knitting cycle.
F = No of feeders present in the m/c.
RPM = Running speed of the knitting mc
TEX = Count of yarn
Note: The best machine utilization is 85-90% & production efficiency is 80-85%.
Note: Interlock knitting machines are equipped with two types of needles dial and cylinder and
only alternate needles work on every feeder to create the construction of Interlock fabric.So,we
have to consider only the active needle present in respective knitting cycleie 50% of the total dial
and cylinder needles.
Example: The production in kgs/hr @ 100% efficiency for a Interlock knitting machine is
SL = 3.2mm
N = (50% x 2256) +(50% x 2256)
F = 108.
RPM = 28
TEX = 40sNe = 590.5/40 = 14.8 TEX
3.2 × ((50%*2256)+(50%2256)) ×108 × 28 ×60 × 14.8

The production per hour =------------------------------------------------------------------------
1000 × 1000 × 1000
=19.38kg/hr @100% Eff

Knitting Manual 1. Fundamentals - Draft 1

Uploaded by

Document Information

Copyright

Available Formats

Share this document

Share or Embed Document

Sharing Options

Did you find this document useful?

Is this content inappropriate?

Copyright:

Available Formats

Knitting Manual 1. Fundamentals - Draft 1

Uploaded by

Copyright:

Available Formats

PREPARED BY: KANNAN T

TEXCOMS TEXTILE SOLUTIONS

2. Classification Of Knitting Machines:______________________________________________17

1 Knitting Technology an Introduction

Media 1What is knitting?

Media 2Loop Formation

1.1 Major classification of knits

1.1.1 Single Jersey:

other basic structures?

Media 3Basics of Single Jersey knitting

1.1.2 Double jersey:

Media 4 Interlock knit

Media 5Rib knit

Comparison of Single Jersey & Double Jersey

4 Fabric Balance Fabric is unbalanced. Double jersey is balanced.

Thickness and weight of single

1.2 Knitting Elements:

Video clip attached for Bearded needle loop formation

Video clip attached for Latch needle loop formation

Latch Needle Bearded Needle

Media 6Latch Needle

Media 7Bearded Needle

SN Latch needle Bearded needle

Media 8Sinker Operation

1.2.3 Loop / Stitch:

1.2.3.1 Parts of a loop

1.2.3.3 Sinker loop:

1.2.3.4 Open loop:

1.2.3.5 Closed loop:

1.2.4 Wales& Courses:

Stagesof knitting cycles.

Media 9 Loop formation

Media 10Needle- Sinker function.

Knit Loop formation techniques by various needle types

Media 11Latch Needle

Media 12Bearded Needle

Media 13Compound Needle

Media 14Transfer Needle

Media 15Purl knit

1.2.5 Stitch density

2. Classification Of Knitting Machines:

SN Description Weft knitting Warp knitting

3. Properties of knitted fabrics

3.4 Spirality / Skew

4. Productivity of circular knitting.

4.1 Loop Length or Stitch length,

Length of yean present in 100 needles of any particular course

4.2 Course length:

loop length in mm X no of active needles at the particular feeder

4.5Single Jersey machine Production calculation

SL × N × F × RPM ×60 × TEX

The production in kgs/hr @ 100% efficiency.

3 × 2256 × 90 × 26 ×60 × 24.6

The production per hour = ------------------------------------------- = 23.375 kg/hr @100% Eff

4.6 Rib machine Production calculation

SL × 2N × F × RPM ×60 × TEX

2.9 × 2 (1680) × 60 × 22 ×60 × 19.68

4.7 Interlock machine Production calculation

SL × N × F × RPM ×60 × TEX

The production in kgs/hr @ 100% efficiency.

3.2 × ((50%*2256)+(50%2256)) ×108 × 28 ×60 × 14.8

=19.38kg/hr @100% Eff

You might also like