METHODS OF STONE SETTING

*Dr. Neeru Jain

Associate Professor Department of Jewellery
Designing,
The IIS University, Jaipur.
*neeruonly1@yahoo.com

While we are designing jewellery we can choose from many methods of stone
setting, each intended to present gemstones in a different manner. Some stone
setting is intended to raise and dramatize a single stone, while others types offer
clusters of gems to be viewed as a group. There are stone setting techniques
with detailed workmanship that is intended to lead the eye to the featured
design. In other cases the setting work is intended to protect a fragile gem from
excessive wear. Some people say the term “jewelry mounting” refers just to the part
that holds the stone-such as the prong head or the bezel part.

Importance :
The objective when stone setting is to use the minimum amount of material
necessary to secure the gem. In doing so the setter must provide maximum
durability while the gemstone jewellery is being worn. You need only look at a
simple jewellery with stilted fine wire prongs to understand the importance of
this art.
Without the art of stone setting, the dramatic gemstones featured in most fine
jewellery would be forlorn. The irony is that, done properly, stone setting in and
of itself is not the intended focus. The true goal is to present the gemstone in a
way that most flatters it, without dramatizing the method in which it is secured
Types of gemstone stonesetting:-

While we are designing jewellery we can choose from many methods of stone
setting, each intended to present gemstones in a different manner. Some stone
setting is intended to raise and dramatize a single stone, while others types offer
clusters of gems to be viewed as a group. There are stone setting techniques
with detailed workmanship that is intended to lead the eye to the featured
design. In other cases the setting work is intended to protect a fragile gem from
excessive wear.

There are two type of settings open settings and closed settings.

A-Open settings:- open setting is one that allows a transparent gem to be set so
that light can be transmitted through the stone from front to back. Developed in the
18th century, they were not widely used until the Victorian Era.
1-Prong setting

Prong set diamonds

Prong setting is the simplest and most common type of setting, largely used
because it consumed the least amount of metal to hold the stone, thus showing it
off to its best advantage. Generally it is simply some number of wires or bars, called
prongs, which are of a certain size and shape, arranged in a shape and size to hold the
given stone, and fixed at the base or collet. A prong setting is one component of what
is known to jewelers as a head, a claw-shaped type of binding (typically 3, 4, or 6
individual prongs per head) that is welded or soldered to a jewellery item in order to
mount (or set) a gemstone to the jewellery item.  the prong setting allows light to strike
a gemstone from more angles, increasing its brilliance.

Prong- The most prominent style being used in jewelry is prong setting. Like the name suggests, prong
set consists of metal prongs holding on to a stone. However, this can have a variety of variations including
shared-prong and split-prong. This style sees 2-4 prongs holding each stone in place. Those prongs can
hold each individual stone, the prong can be split down the middle to hold two individual stones (split-
prong) or each prong could be shared between two or more stones (shared-prong)

> Shared Prongs

 > Scalloped*

                   Split-Prong (Fish-tail)

     Prong setting is one of the settings with the best combinations of security and appearance. Prongs
do allow a decent amount of light to reach the diamond ensuring a high level of brilliance. Shared
prongs can pose a risk as the breaking of one prong can put more than one stone at risk. However,
because the prongs are thicker than pavé setting, it is sturdier and is usually as preferred alternative
to pavé.

*Scalloping is just an aesthetic design choice that allows more light to hit the stone from the side,
increasing brilliance. Therefore scalloping has minimal impact on the security of stones. 

Prong setting engagement rings are 

Then a burr of the proper size, is used to cut what is known as a "bearing", which is a
notch that corresponds to the angles of the stone. The burr most often used is called a
"hart bur" that is angled and sized for the job of setting diamonds. That bearing is cut
equally into all of the prongs and at the same height above the base. Then the stone is
inserted so that it goes into all of the bearings, pliers or a pusher are used to bend the
prongs gently over the crown of the stone, and the tops of the prongs are clipped off or
we can say removed with snips, filed to an even height above the stone, and finished.
Usually a "cup burr" is used to give the prong a nice round tip.
There are many variations of prong settings including just two prongs, the common 4
prongs or up to 24 or more with many variations involving decoration, size and shapes
of the prongs themselves, and how they are fixed or used in jewellery. But the method
of setting is generally the same for all of them no matter how many prongs are present.
Prong setting is the most standard setting used in diamond rings. It basically
protects and holds the diamond. There are many types of Prongs that are customized
according to the customer’s need. These types include single, double, triple and
personalised decorative prongs. it helps in protecting the pointed tips of the stone from
breaking. There is also a V-prong setting which is used for pear shaped and
marquise stones,

The prong setting permits the centre stone to be raised above which
makes the stone look larger with the only glimpse of beautiful metal. This setting
plays a vital role in making the ring strong and durable. It is also instrumental in giving
an elegant look to the ring and hence, it is mainly used for wedding and engagement
rings.

V-PRONG SETTING:-
A variation of a standard prong setting that is essential to more angular shapes such as
square, pear, heart, marquis or trillion shaped gemstones. V-prongs wrap around the
gemstone's edges protecting its delicate corners from chipping. More of the
gemstone's surface area is exposed on top, making the gemstone appear bigger and
more visible. However, the downside is that the top of the gemstone remains exposed,
and the gemstone may more easily slip out of its setting.

COMMON / SHARED PRONG SETTING:-

In this variation of a prong setting, two gemstones are held together side by side by a
common prong. In this way, less metal shows through, allowing more light to pass
through the gemstones. This type of setting is most commonly used in eternity bands.

2-Tension Setting

Here, the diamond is held between the ring with pressure and not by prongs, collet or
invisible strings. The diamond appears to be floating and is open on the sides .

A tension setting refers to a diamond ring setting where the diamond is held in place by
pressure rather than with prongs. The gold or platinum setting is actually spring-loaded
to exert pressure onto the diamond, and tiny etchings or grooves are added to the gold
or platinum in order to create a shelf structure for the diamond's edges to rest. The
diamond appears to 'float' or be suspended in the air with nothing holding it in place. It
is a secure setting type for a diamond engagement ring or wedding ring.
In this relatively new type of setting tension or metal pressure is
used to secure the gemstone in place instead of prongs, beads, or metal bars.
The metal in the setting is spring loaded to exert pressure on the gemstone and
tiny grooves are etched into the setting enabling the edges of the stone to rest.
The gemstone appears to hover in the air without any support. Platinum is
usually used in this type of setting because the metal must be strong enough to
create sufficient pressure to hold the gemstone in place. The gemstone also
must be hard enough for this type of setting so it does not crack under pressure.
Usually, sapphires, rubies, moissanite, and diamonds are used, with a hardness of 9 or
10 on the Mohs hardness scale. Rings set using Tension setting can not be resized,
because that will remove the spring loading effect.

there are different perspectives regarding the security of tension settings. Many
jewelers contend that tension settings are as safe and potentially safer than four and
six prong settings,
In addition, this type of setting can not be manufactured ahead of time with the stone
to be chosen later. That is because the computer calibrates the exact amount of
pressure for each given gemstone to make sure not to damage it.
A major difference between tension settings and other settings is that tension settings
are only manufactured after they are sold while other settings are often manufactured
first and then sold to consumers. There are several reasons for this difference. First,
tension settings can not be resized easily, as resizing removes the spring-loading
effect. In some designs, they can be resized up or down up to 2 sizes. Sometimes,
instead of resizing a tension setting, the manufacturer actually melts down the old
setting and creates a new spring-loaded tension setting that is appropriately sized.
Second, tension settings are calibrated to the exact specifications of the stone that
they hold, therefore they can not be manufactured until the customer has selected a
gem. Unlike other settings, which can be manufactured ahead of time regardless of the
stone they ultimately hold, each tension setting is designed for a specific stone. The
tension setting is calibrated by a computer, using light to identify the exact places the
mount must apply pressure on the gemstone to avoid fracturing it through uneven
pressure distribution.

Because tension settings place such pressure on the stone, only four types of
gemstone can be placed in a tension setting safely: diamonds, rubies, moissanite, and
sapphires. Additionally, tension setting manufacturers must be careful which stones
they place in tension settings. A stone that either has significant insertions or is too soft
may fracture under the intense pressure of the setting. The Mohs scale is a reliable
way to rank a gem's hardness. Generally gems with a Mohs hardness of less than 9.0
are not suitable for tension mounting.
The term "tension setting" is, from the physical science perspective. The stone is not
held in tension (a pulling force) but in fact in compression (a pressing force).

Technical information
A tension ring is a robust assembly, generally exerting around 12,000 pounds per
square inch of pressure. To make a tension setting, the manufacturer must harden the
metal, use special alloys, and pressure treat the metal to create the strength required
for the spring-loaded structure. The jeweler cold-works and hardens the metal before
setting the gem.

Some tension rings exert up to 50,000 psi (350 MPa) on the diamond. It is not possible
to exert so great a pressure on a stone with a Mohs scale of mineral hardness rating of
less than 9.0. must ensure even pressure distribution. This requires careful calculation,
and Furthermore, to exert this pressure on a gem, particularly one of high importance,
the maker inspection of the gem to ensure that every facet mates perfectly with the
ring.

Tension rings are also manufactured using other metals, particularly those that are
naturally strong, such as titanium or stainless steel. These materials do not require
special alloying or manufacturing processes for the creation of a tension ring.

B-Close setting:- In a closed setting light can only enter the stone from the top. This
type of setting is appropriate for opaque cabochon-cut stones and highly refractive
faceted stones where light can enter through the crown and table of the stone and be
reflected back to the observer from within.

1-Bezel setting
A bezel set sapphire

The earliest known technique of attaching stones to jewellery was bezel setting.
Bezel set stones are seated in thin strips of precious metal, formed to the shape and
size of a stone. Once seated, gems and semiprecious stones are placed inside. The
metal strip is then trimmed to a depth that marginally overlaps the gem. Using smooth
metal tools, artisans burnish the metal by rubbing it with force to roll it over the edge of
stones in order to lock them in position

A bezel is a strip of metal bent into the shape and size of the stone and then soldered
to the piece of jewellery. Then the stone is inserted into the bezel and the metal rubbed
over the stone, holding it in place. This method works well for either the cabochon or
faceted stones.
In a bezel setting the solitaire is bordered with metal giving it a well finished
and clean look. Bezel setting comes in two types-complete and half. In Complete Bezel
setting the stone is covered fully giving it a sophisticated touch. However, a Half Bezel
setting diamond is partly surrounded by the metal which gives the ring a modern
aspect. Diamond when teamed with white gold for a bezel setting, makes the diamond
appear bigger.

Bezel- Bezel setting is a very minimalistic setting where a diamond is set into metal (like a channel
setting) but the stones are surrounded by metal.
     Bezel settings have an almost identical list of pro’s and con’s as channel setting. Their being
surrounded by metal does diminish the sparkle from the stones while simultaneously increasing the
security of the stones. While almost any stone can be bezel setting, it does increase the likelihood of
chipping, cracking or breaking more fragile stone types and shapes.

Full bezel setting

Find this ring here

As the name implies, a full bezel is where the metal surrounds the entire
circumference of the center stone, covering it from all angles. This setting
provides the most amount of protection for the edges of the stone, making it less
prone to breakage and chips.

However, full bezel settings hide more of the gemstone, which can make it
appear smaller. You won’t see its side view or have light reflection from the
sides. As a result, the diamond only sparkles face upwards, reducing its
brilliance and size.

Partial Bezel Setting

half bezel setting
Find this ring here
A partial bezel setting only encircles parts of the gemstone. The benefit of the
partial bezel is that the stone is more visible and can appear larger. Because the
sides are uncovered, light is able to reflect of these areas of the stone, resulting
in more fire and brilliance as compared to full bezel settings.

However, with partial bezel settings, the stone is less protected and there is the
possibility that the exposed sections can chip or break if struck.

Advantages of a Bezel Setting

Protection for Your Diamond
Bezel settings are among the most secure option for gemstone rings.

A bezel setting protects the center gemstone from impact and can keep its edges
safe from chipping and breaking. This is especially important if you have a
diamond shape with sharp edges which are more prone to chipping, such as the
princess, marquise and pear cuts.

princess cut bezel engagement ring

Princess cut diamond in bezel setting. Find this ring here

Bezel settings also offer great protection for softer gemstones with Mohs
hardness ratings below 7, such as tanzanite, opals, pearls and quartz.

Because the stone is well protected, the bezel setting is ideal for people with an
active lifestyle and can resist exposure to rough wear. Unlike prong settings,
there is little likelihood for the stone to get loose and fall out of the setting.

Also bezel settings don’t snag on everyday items, unlike prong settings. For
example, if your line of work requires you to put on latex gloves (think doctors,
scientists and nurses), a bezel is much more convenient as it won’t snag on the
latex. Prong settings tend to catch on clothes or hair and snag on everyday
items, which can harm the gemstone.
Tends to Hide Flaws
Another benefit is in the bezel setting’s ability to hide imperfections and
inclusions that may be present in the sides of the diamond. For instance, if
there’s a noticeable chip on the edge of the diamond, the bezel will be able to
perfectly hide it. Note however, that if these flaws are right in the middle of the
diamond, then of course the bezel setting will emphasize it.

Disadvantages of a Bezel Setting

Minimizes Diamond Size and Sparkle
Unlike prong settings where a large amount of the diamond is visible, enhancing
brilliance and size, bezel settings can cover a large amount of the gemstone’s
surface, reducing its sparkle and size. However, this also depends on the way
the stone is set in the bezel, as well as the width of the band and the thickness of
the metal surrounding the diamond.

high set bezel engagement ring

High-Set Bezel Ring. Find this ring here

In a bezel setting, if the stone is set very low against the band, it can appear
smaller. However, if set high against the band (like in the example above) the
diamond can look large and prominent.

Bezel Settings are Expensive

Another main disadvantage of the bezel setting is its consistently higher price.
The reason a bezel is often more expensive than a prong setting is due to the
higher expertise and amount of metal needed to create it.

Some local jewelers may refuse to create a bezel setting for you, because it
requires customization as the setting has to be created for the specific stone.
Each bezel setting must be custom made to fit the gemstone. This extra work
and skill adds to the cost of the setting making it considerably more expensive
than prong settings.
a prong setting might be the better option.
2-Channel setting
Channel set diamonds

Channel setting is a method whereby stones are suspended between two bars or strips
of metal, called channels. Often when setting small stones and the bars go in a line
with the design it is called channel setting, and when the bars cross the lines of the
design, it is called bar set. The idea is the same, though. The channel is some variation
of a "U" shape, with two sides and a bottom. The sides are made just a bit narrower
than the width of the stone or stones to be set, and then, using the same burs as in
prong setting, a small notch, which is again called a bearing, is cut into each wall. The
stone is put in place in those notches, and the metal on top is pushed down, tightening
the stone in place. The proper way to set a channel is to cut a notch for each stone, but
for cheaper production work sometimes a groove is cut along each channel. Also,
since the metal can be very stiff and strong, this is a situation where a reciprocating
hammer, which is like a jackhammer but jewellery sized, might be used to hammer
down the metal, as it can be difficult to do by hand. Then, as always, the metal is filed
down and finished, and the inner edge near the stones cleaned up and straightened as
necessary. As with all jewellery, there can be many variations of channel work. At
times the walls will be raised—sometimes a center stone will be set between two bars
that rise high from the base ring—or the channel might just be cut directly into some
surface, making the stones flush with the metal. It is still channel setting, though.
Channel setting, as the name suggests, is a channel; this channel is a
two sided metal channel between which gemstones are lined up in a uniform pattern.
Channel setting is the most secure setting which protects the gemstones with a sleek
finish. It also makes the ring free from getting caught up in the hair or clothing. This
setting is a popular one used mainly for engagement rings.

A popular style in modern and contemporary jewelry is channel setting. Channel setting sees rows of
stones set into a channel in the metal with metal edges holding the stones in place.
     Channel settings are great in terms of security, being one of the most secure settings available for
multiple small stones in jewelry. The downside revolving around channel setting is the amount of
stone that is covered up by metal. Because the stones are set into metal, less light I able to reach the
stones, decreasing the amount of sparkle. Channel setting is a setting style that is almost exclusively
reserved for round, baguette, emerald, ascher, and princess cut.
3-Pave Setting:-
Pave Setting is essentially a type of bead setting. The difference is the arrangement of
stones. In pave setting, diamonds are set in fields rather than rows or strands. Pave set
diamonds typically cover a broad expanse and share beads to create a diamond
encrusted appearance. The bold diamond surfaces created by pave setting are
breathtaking and coveted in fine jewellery.
The word comes from the French word ‘pave’ (pronounced as ‘pa vay'). In a pave
setting the surface of a jewellery item appears to be covered with tiny diamonds. The
use of multiple stones in pave setting forms an illusion of bigger jewellery.
Originated from the French word “paved” or “cobblestoned”, this style
features a metal band that is encrusted with dozens of tiny gemstones. Those stones
are held in place with small prongs or beads, so much so that the metal
underneath them is practically invisible. A jeweler typically drills holes into the band
and carefully places the small diamonds into the holes. Tiny beads or mini-prongs are
formed around each diamond to secure them in place. With a pavé ring, the effect is
one of continuous sparkle. Round brilliant gemstones are used most often in this type
setting because they offer the most sparkle. This setting differs from Channel in that
the stones used in Pave are tiny and are held together with prongs, whereas in
Channel setting the stones are generally much bigger and are more distinctly set in the
metal band. Another version of this setting is Micro-Pave. This is where e advantage
of Micro-Pave setting is that gemstones can now be set with much more efficiency,
accuracy and speed while minimizing the cost of setting all those tiny gemstones by
hand.

TYPES OF PAVÉ SETTINGS

There are several different types of pavé settings used for engagement rings today,
including the French pavé, petite pavé and several others. Below, we’ve listed the most
common pavé setting types, as well as their unique design features:

Micro Pavé
Micro pavé settings use incredible small diamonds with a carat weight of less than
0.01ct per stone. A typical micro pavé setting may contain more than 100 of these
diamonds set close to one another to create the appearance of a continuous band of
diamonds.

For example, this trio micro pavé engagement ring from James Allen features 128
diamonds with a total carat weight of 0.78ctw, meaning each diamond an average
carat weight of barely 0.006ct. Because micro pavé settings contain so many
diamonds, they often have a beautiful sparkle that continues along the shank of the
ring. Our full guide to micro pavé rings goes into more detail about what you should
know if you’re considering this type of pavé setting.

Micro Pavé French Pavé Petite Pave

French Pavé
French pavé settings differ from classic pavé settings in that each diamond is set inside
a tiny v-shaped space cut into the ring. This cut makes the sides of each diamond
more visible, with less visible metal and the appearance of a line of continuous
diamonds.

For example, this French pavé diamond engagement ring from Blue Nile uses 1/4ctw
of pavé set diamonds. If you view the ring from the side, you can see the v-shaped cuts
made into the ring to accommodate the pavé-set diamonds.

Like other pavé settings, the French pavé setting creates a gorgeous sparkle, with less
visible metal between each small diamond.

Petite Pave
Petite pavé settings are similar to traditional pavé settings. However, instead of using
the large prongs used for a classic pavé setting, a petite pavé setting uses smaller
prongs that allow for the pavé diamonds to be more visible.

For example, look at this beautiful petite pavé engagement ring from James Allen. The
smaller prongs holding each diamond in place make the pavé diamonds easy to see,
creating a great sparkle that continues along the shank of the ring.

Pros
 Brings attention to the center stone
 Less metal exposes
 Adds to the ring’s overall brilliance and beauty
 Offers extra sparkle to a lower-set or less sparkly center stone
 Designs are available in a modern or antique style
Cons
 Sizing and resizing can be difficult if the ring is pavé set around the full band
 Although highly unlikely, there is slight risk of losing side stones

 1. Stone fallout is possible if jewellery maintenance, attention and care is not
appropriate.

 2. Less metal equals less protection of accent gemstones.



 3. There is an accelerated risk of wear and tear during physical activities.

We recommend determining his or her ring size early in the design process to prevent
resizing issues.
4-Flush Setting:- GYPSY / FLUSH / BURNISH SETTING

In flush setting, gems are implanted in the metal ring band leaving the crown of the
gem visible. The whole of the metal ring safeguards the gemstones. Flush setting
indeed makes the ring appear alluring!  Flush set stones can lend a scattered glitter to
flat or domed thick metal areas .

After drilling a pilot hole into gold or platinum, the stone setter uses a hand- held,
flexible shaft to guide burs to open seats to accommodate the jewels. With stones
positioned flush, the metal the surface is gently manipulated with a chasing tool to lock
them in place. Once secure, the edge of the work is trimmed and neatly burnished with
a bright edge to accentuate the glistening gem.

. This delicate process can only be done after a perfect fit has been achieved by the
hands of an experienced jeweler.

In this type of setting diamonds are recessed or embedded deeply into holes drilled
within the band of metal, leaving only the table, or the top of the stone visible. Only
diamonds are used in this type of setting because a substantial amount of pressure is
required to secure the diamond into its hole. The finished look is smooth and clean and
is highly popular in men’s rings as well as women’s rings.

Burnish / flush setting, also sometimes referred to as flush setting, shot

setting, or gypsy setting is similar to bead setting, but after the stone is inserted into the
space, instead of using a graver to lift beads, a burnishing tool is used to push the
metal all around the stone. The stone will be roughly flush with the surface, with a
burnished or rubbed edge around it. This type of setting has a long history but is
gaining a resurgence in contemporary jewellery. Sometimes the metal is finished using
sandblasting, as it shows off the work very well.

Gypsy/Flush/Hammer- Gypsy/Flush/Hammer setting is a unique and rarely used setting style that
sets a diamond flush with the metal surrounding it with only thin lips of metal holding stones in place.
     Gyspy/Flush/Hammer setting is a very temperamental setting that is visually appealing but very
prone to stone loss because of the minimal metal used to hold the stones in place.
Gypsy/Flush/Hammer setting is almost exclusively used to set round brilliant cut stones.

5-Invisible Setting:-
Square-shape gemstones are placed in a row side by side with no space left between.
The gems are laid so close that the metal in the bottom cannot be seen. Brilliant-cut
stones are normally used in invisible setting method. The stones must be in the same
size, similar or match color. The seat is also in a square shape placing altogether to
support the stones which has also been cut in the same shape. This allows stones to
be securely places in their seat. Moreover, two cuts are made oppositely on each
stone’s pavilion to have it fit perfectly in the seat. An invisible setting is a mounting that
holds the stones in a ring so that the setting itself is not prominent. Ring with invisible-
set stones. Whereas in a regular setting you can see prongs or bezels, the gemstones
in an invisible setting look as if they were held by nothing.
6-Bead setting:-
bead setting is primarily used to display sequences of small diamonds in strands or
continuous rows.

Bead setting is a generic term for setting a stone directly into metal using gravers, also
called burins, which are essentially tiny chisels. A hole is drilled directly into the metal
surface, and then a ball burr is used to make a concave depression just the size of the
stone. Some setters will set the stone into that concave depression, and some will use
a hart burr to cut a bearing around the edge. Then the stone is inserted into that space,
and the gravers or burins are used to lift and push a tiny bit of the metal into and over
the edge of the stone. Then a beading tool, which is simply a steel shaft with a
concave dimple cut into the tip, is pushed onto the bit of metal, rounding and
smoothing it, pushing it firmly onto the stone, and creating a "bead". That is the
essential method, but there are many types of setting that use the technique. When
many stones are set in this fashion very closely together, about 1 millimeter apart,[7]
covering a surface, that is called "pavé"—from the French for paved or cobblestoned.
When a long line is engraved into the metal going up to each of the beads, that is "star
set", because of the look. The other common usage is called "bead and bright", "grain
setting" or "threading" in Europe, and other names at times. This is when, after the
stone is set as described above, the background metal around the stone is cut away,
usually in geometric shapes. In the end what is left is the stone with four beads in a
lowered box shape with an edge around it. Often it is a row of stones, so it will be in a
long shape with a raised edge and a row of stones and beads down the center. This
type of setting is still used often, but it was very common in the early to middle 20th
century.

In short Bead setting gets its name because the prongs holding the stones in place are small beads
of metal. To preserve the prongs and maintain security, the stones are set into the metal like a
channel setting with a thin edge. Bead setting is most frequently used on rings that require Milgrain
detailing, which works very well on the edge of metal.

     Bead setting is the most similar in style to pavé setting in design because the prongs are of the
same build. This means bead setting is prone to stones becoming loose or falling out if the prongs
shift or break. However, the edge of metal around the stones helps protect the prongs holding the
stones in place. This, unfortunately, does take light away from the diamond making it brilliant although
not as brilliant as pave.
7-Bar Setting:-

Similar to the channel setting, the Bar setting has parallel bars holding the solitaire
firmly between them. While other parts of the solitaire remain unhidden, the ring
appears to be delicate but is indeed strong and stout. Bar Set- Bar setting is a style of
setting that sandwiches a stone in between two bars of metal (similar in design to channel setting).
Bar setting is a type of tension setting and may be referred to as this as well.

  So  Bar setting is a very similar setting in design, to channel setting leaving it susceptible to the
same benefits and drawbacks. However, bar setting is not typically as sturdy of a setting as channel
setting. This is because the individual bars are more susceptible to shifting, wear or breaking putting
two stones at risk. Bar setting rarely done on stones that are not symmetrical or with straight edges,
and are therefore most frequently used on round, baguette, and princess cut.
8-Illusion Setting:-
As the name goes, this setting creates an illusion of a bigger stone. In this setting,
generally, the prongs are more decorative which enhances the overall illusion. In this
setting a band of shiny and highly reflective metal surrounds the girdle of the
gemstone, usually a diamond, to make it appear larger than it really is. Unlike a Bezel
set, where the band of metal surrounds the diamond completely, in this setting the
diamond is secured in place with prongs and the metal surrounding it is “bright cut”,
where tiny metal incisions make it shiny enough to blend in with the diamond, diffusing
the silhouette of the diamond. This technique was patented by Van Cleef & Arpels in
1933.
An illusion setting is a prong setting designed to make a diamond look bigger than it
actually is. This is accomplished by a ring of metal surrounding the girdle of the
diamond that is often bright cut. This ring diffuses the outline of the stone causing it to
look larger.

9-CLUSTER SETTING:-
In this setting a large center stone is surrounded with smaller stones. Alternatively,
numerous small gemstones are set with prongs close together to give the illusion of a
much larger center stone. This type of setting is especially popular with floral designs
and in antique jewellery.

10-Fishtail:-
A fishtail is a beautiful setting technique consisting of four prominent triangular corners
cut from the existing shank that hold the gemstone in place. When viewed from the
finger-view it looks like the tail of a fish.
In this setting multiple gemstones are held together by tiny metal bars which are
exposed and aligned perpendicular to the ring band. Unlike in a Channel setting, the
sides of the gems remain open creating an unobstructed view of the stones. This
allows more light to enter and illuminate the stones, but does offer less protection for
the stones. However, due to its unusual visual appeal, this design is popular in tennis
bracelets in addition to anniversary and wedding bands.
11-spider setting:-

Spider setting are used for used for stones, especially larger ones, which are irregular
in shape or odd size that will not fit standard sizes. These sterling silver settings with
four or more long prongs extending from a common junction are, for obvious reasons
called spider settings.
-
Star setting is a traditional way to grain set a small diamond to make it appear
larger. This old school technique is not often applied to modern jewellery as it's
regarded as a little old fashion. But the graver skills learnt during this lesson will
serve you well for future bright cut setting work.

12-kundan setting:-
Kundan work is a long and time consuming process. It involves multiple stages
and craftsmen and artisans with excellent skills
The method of kundan settings is the same as in bezel setting only the process of the
seat making is different. Gold sheets are beaten and made into a cup like shapes to
set the stones known as ghat or collet . The seat/ ghat (collet) in kundan setting is
normally made from pure metal which has softer quality. Collets /ghats shapes are
filled with laakh or lac, to set the gemstones. Flat shaped Gemstones and diamond
polki with silver backing (known as dak polki) can be inserted/pushed into the
seat/collet by using hot coal to stick. and the gold foil is used to cover the gap between
gemsand collet. The dak is usually put with highly light reflecting material before a
transparent gem is placed. This method makes the stone more shinning. Colored
gems, tin or pure silver are mostly used.stone setter is known as jadia.
ring.
INVISIBLE SETTING
One of the newer and most difficult setting meth

This type of setting refers to metal spikes or claws (prongs) that are curved at the end
and hold the gemstone securely in place by gripping it from the top. This type setting is
especially popular for round or oval solitaire, or single stone rings. It allows light to
come through the top and the sides of the gemstone, minimizing the look of metal and
increasing the gemstone's visual appeal. A gemstone may be mounted high or low in a
prong setting, and the higher it's set - the more prominent it looks. It may include 3, 4,
or 6 prongs per head, which is the center of the setting. The prongs are set either
evenly spaced all around the gemstone or at the four corners. One thing to look for is
that the prongs are well polished so they don't snag on clothes. Prongs tend to wear
out or become loose over time and should be carefully checked every year.

Pressure setting is a form of setting of diamonds or gemstones where 7 or more

smaller diamonds are set together using a collect and a few prongs, such that all these
small diamonds combined together give the appearance of a single large diamond or
solitaire. In this more than seven round brilliant cut diamonds are clubbed together, the
center stone is surrounded and held by other stones… Pressure setting gives a look
and feel of a round brilliant solitaire diamond and hence is popular.
Tiffany Setting
Jewelers often use Tiffany settings, a newer style of prong setting, in engagement and
wedding rings. This head puts more space between the stone and the rest of the ring
and allows the gemstone to really sparkle.

References
https://www.gemsociety.org/article/the-nomenclature-of-jewelry-part-1-gem-settings/
https://www.debrafallowfield.com/news/gem-setting-explained-types-and-process/
https://www.gia.edu/gem-education/course-jewelry-repair-setting-intermediate-carlsbad
https://4cs.gia.edu/en-us/blog/popular-setting-styles-2/