NOV/DEC

NOV/
97
DEC 201
2017
7 • £6.50 UK $15.99
 www.mengafvmodeller.com
 www.mengafvmodeller.com

ANDY GULDE N’S P A N Z E R I V A U S F.

F. J

 THE END IS NEAR

 CONTENTS
2 In The Devil’s Hands
Pete Usher’s dramatic Eastern Front scene.

10 The End is Near

 Andy Gulden retur ns with another stunning 1:16 scene.

20 Buffalo Soldier
Manuel Reiner creates a unique 1:35 StuG III.

28 Panzerkampfwagen IV IV Pa
Part 1515
 The Editor continues detailing Trumpeter’s 1:16 kit.

36 Señor Patton
Sean M. Lynch adds a Spanish twist to Takom’s new M47.

46 Keeping Track  
New releases.

58 Syrian Shilka
We see how Hong Model’s Shilka shapes up.

Meng AFV Modeller is published Bimonthly by 

 AFV Modeller
Modeller ltd
Old Stables
East Moor
Stannington
Northumberland
We are now on Facebook, ‘Like’ us to
NE61 6ES
follow what we are doing and follow our 
 Tel:
 Tel: 01670
01670 823648
823648
build projects.
Fax: 01670 820274

Editor and Designer: David Parker 

email: david@mengafvmodeller.com  AFV Modeller
Modeller welcomes
welcomes contribution
contributions
s from interested
interested parties,
parties, but cannot accept
accept any 
Deputy Editor: Mark Neville responsibility for unsolicited material.
email: mark@mengafvmodeller.com  The contents
contents of this publication
publication including
including all
all articles,
articles, drawings
drawings and photographs
photographs
originated by AFV Modeller ltd become the publishers copyright under copyright law.
Sales Director: Keith Smith Reproduction in any form requires the written consent of the publisher. Whilst every 
email: keith@mengafvmodeller.com care is taken to avoid mistakes AFV Modeller ltd. cannot be liable in any way for errors
or ommissions.
Proof Reading: Jim Chandler

1
ISSN 2059-4305
 CONTENTS
2 In The Devil’s Hands
Pete Usher’s dramatic Eastern Front scene.

10 The End is Near

 Andy Gulden retur ns with another stunning 1:16 scene.

20 Buffalo Soldier
Manuel Reiner creates a unique 1:35 StuG III.

28 Panzerkampfwagen IV IV Pa
Part 1515
 The Editor continues detailing Trumpeter’s 1:16 kit.

36 Señor Patton
Sean M. Lynch adds a Spanish twist to Takom’s new M47.

46 Keeping Track  
New releases.

58 Syrian Shilka
We see how Hong Model’s Shilka shapes up.

Meng AFV Modeller is published Bimonthly by 

 AFV Modeller
Modeller ltd
Old Stables
East Moor
Stannington
Northumberland
We are now on Facebook, ‘Like’ us to
NE61 6ES
follow what we are doing and follow our 
 Tel:
 Tel: 01670
01670 823648
823648
build projects.
Fax: 01670 820274

Editor and Designer: David Parker 

email: david@mengafvmodeller.com  AFV Modeller
Modeller welcomes
welcomes contribution
contributions
s from interested
interested parties,
parties, but cannot accept
accept any 
Deputy Editor: Mark Neville responsibility for unsolicited material.
email: mark@mengafvmodeller.com  The contents
contents of this publication
publication including
including all
all articles,
articles, drawings
drawings and photographs
photographs
originated by AFV Modeller ltd become the publishers copyright under copyright law.
Sales Director: Keith Smith Reproduction in any form requires the written consent of the publisher. Whilst every 
email: keith@mengafvmodeller.com care is taken to avoid mistakes AFV Modeller ltd. cannot be liable in any way for errors
or ommissions.
Proof Reading: Jim Chandler

1
ISSN 2059-4305
 In The

Devil’s
2
Hands
 1:35

P E T E U S H E R ’ S D R A M AT I C A W A R D - W I N N I N G V I G N E T T E

3
 Beast Killer
ISU-152 was a Russian fixed turret fully  losses to German armour frustration German SS forces pulling frightened
enclosed assault gun also capable of  grew around the JSU and they were Russians out of a disabled JSU. The
serving as a tank-destroyer. The seen as a real prize to knock out and crew were clearly in a perilous
Russian army used the JSU until the the Germans could only dream of  situation. Using out the box figures
1970s. Reading the reference I had, I capturing the crew of one of these  was clearly out of the question, so I
found out this vehicle received an mighty beasts. knew some converting and sculpting
interesting nickname ‘’The Beast Killer’ I wanted to depict a scene of high  was going to be needed.
this was earned for its ability to knock  emotion in a relatively small
out the heaviest of German tanks, environment. The composition of the I bought two Tamiya JSU-152 kits, one
many of which were named after  diorama was going to be critical to  would be a dummy kit so the figures
animals, such as elephant, rhinoceros give a clear story and portray the could be sculpted to fit perfectly.
(Nashorn) Panther and of course Tiger! feelings of the troops involved.
With this new tank causing massive  The idea soon solidified in my mind of 

C o m p o s e Yo u r s e l v e s

During the sculpting phase, I

knew there would be a lot of man-
handling of the kit plus putty and
talcum powder used. These are all
not great materials to have left
around for a flawless airbrushed
finish! The ‘disposable’ JSU was
only basically assembled; if it didn’t
interact with the figures or the level
of the vehicle, I didn’t attach it.

 The key to any diorama

is composition. All the
figures must interact, and
a natural symmetry between
them is essential to building a
story. The figures in the
diorama were based on those
from Evolution and Dragon. The
base figures received different
degrees of conversion ranging from
 just newly sculpted arms to others
needing almost completely new
uniforms. All the new limbs were made
from wire armatures covered in two layers
of Magic Sculp. All figures were given new
heads from the Hornet range. Some bald
heads were needed for the right expression
on the faces, so magic sculp was also used
to create the disheveled hair of the tank 
crew. Once undercoated all the figures were
painted with Vallejo acrylics.

4
Dirty Thirty-three

 After first using ‘the hairspray technique’ to achieve  The white spots were then gently dragged  After the washes were applied I was able to retur n
the basis of the worn whitewash I continued to add and blended into the panel; this gives a  with the white and add more intensity in selected
depth to the worn finish. Each panel was first lightly  nice uneven white dimension. areas, here the white still needs blending with
dampened with enamel thinner, then random spots thinner.
of white Humbrol No 34 were applied.

Black brown LS09 oil paints from Wilder were
heavily thinned and fed into the recesses to
isolate the panel in a pin wash fashion. These
paints are really nice to use and dry with a
 very matt finish.
Dark Green LS15 with a little LS 16 faded green from the same range was added in small
amounts around the edge of the panel this was then blended inward towards the centre of 
the panel. LS18 basic earth added to the centre of the panel gives a nice muted effect.

I wanted the ‘beast killer’ to look like it had
seen many months in the field, so an
extremely worn look was planned. I have
always had good results from Tamiya
 Acrylics so used them for the initial painting  
stages. I knew most of the original Russian
green would be obscured and covered with
the following techniques, but I still used a
mild modulation effect to highlight areas
towards the upper surfaces and picked out
some raised points with a lighter green  
mixture. As I had two sets of decals from
the two kits I could make the number 33,
these were hand painted over the top and
some artistic license was used to alter the
shapes slightly to make them look more
hand painted on by the crew.
Once this stage was complete; several
layers of cheap hairspray was applied to
the entire kit. Tamiya white mixed with
Tamiya Earth were sprayed in a patchy  completed each panel individually before
manner over the main body of the kit. On
the sides of the tank, the whitewash was
removed with a damp brush in the
opposite direction to which the tank would
have been travelling. To further erode the
winter paint I used the edge of some fine
point tweezers to make scratches in the
thin paint while it was still soft. Flat
surfaces were gently scrubbed to
represent crew movement, most of the flat
surfaces were almost taken back to the
original green in most parts. From here on
in I changed my approach, I would
normally work each weathering stage
across the entire vehicle. Instead, I almost
moving onto the next. After only a few
panels I found I really enjoyed the panel by 
panel system. I also found that as I worked
around the tank my techniques slightly 
changed and improved, I’m sure we get
better with each kit we make. This
technique almost made each panel like an
individual model yet relating to the panel
before and after it.

5
 Streaking Grime from the Mig range was used to age the scratches and the bullet
strikes on the hull.

 To create scuffs and scratches through to the original green factory finish, Vallejo black-green
black-green was
used both with a fine brush and a small piece of torn sponge using a ‘dabbing’ action.

Base washes of brown tones and an oily black around the outlet formed Heavier applications of pigments give a realistic ‘sooty’ finish.
the basis of the exhausts.

More pigments came into play with a heavy build up of earth around the
lower hull. Various tones give the dry and wet effects.

6
 With the presence of round strikes
on the front of the tank, I thought it
might be a good idea to have the
front lamp looking worse for wear 
 with a smashed front glass cover.
I needed a reflective mirror that
sits in the back of the lamp.
 This is how I made it. Domestic tin
foil shiny side down was pressed
over the end of a rounded paint
brush.
Run a modelling knife a few
millimeters down and around the
top of the brush, then lift off the
small foil dish shape.
 The foil dish is placed into the light
housing and the light bulb and
 wires fitted can then be added.
 The hanging out bulb and wires
 were from my spares box.

G r o u n d e d

 As the focal point of the scene is the  
figures groundwork was kept  
minimal. After forming a raised
edging to contain the earth mixture I
assembled the basic materials.
Sculpt-a-mold, fine earth and sand,
fine plant roots.
A base layer of sculpt-a-mold mixed  
with water and a little white glue can
then be spread out over a styrene
base.
 
The second layer of sculpt-a-mold was mixed with dark brown and black 
acrylics. Large tubes of paint can be bought from large hobby shops. This is
a better option than using the smaller Model paints. The sculpt-a-mold can
absorb a fair amount of paint before it reaches a nice ‘muddy’ consistency.
This can be spread out over the white layer below.

 To create the correct ‘sit’ of the vehicle, I wrapped the kit in Once the base was dry (48 hours) a layer of   The kit tracks were used to recreate the
cling film and pushed it into the soft base material. The kit can thinned PVA glue was brushed over. Then dry plant track marks in the ground where the tank 
then be removed after a few hours when the sculpt-a-mold pot earth was sprinkled over the area. had been before grinding to a halt.
has started to harden but by no means cured.

7
8
 In The

Devil’s
Hands

9
 ANDY GULD EN’ S PA N Z E R I V A U S F. J

 WHEN Trumpeter announced a 1/16 scale

Panzer IV H, I hoped a J model would soon
follow. Only a few months later my wishes were
granted and I immediately purchased one and
cleared off the work bench to begin this journey.
 A battle weary tank, crew and infantry, surviving
the last months of the war, was the perfect
setting to place this iconic vehicle of World War II

10
11
  The Kit  The Build
 Trumpeter’s 1/16 scale tanks have been I stared the construction by basically  an appropriate level of use. Unfortunately,
 well received by the f ans of the larger  following all the steps need to build the an ill-timed computer gremlin ran away 
scale. They provide a nice option for an out interior and close up the model before  with any pictures of the final product, so
of the box build or a solid base for a super  concentrating on the exterior. Knowing I  you’ll have to take my word for it!
detailed project. I have taken an approach  was placing the model in a diorama, I did
somewhere in the middle. Without many  not put the same effort into correcting or  Once the hull and turret were closed up, I
after-market option for detailing, much of  detailing the interior as the editor of this  was able to concentrate on the exterior.
my improvements needed to be scratch magazine is doing! I was going for just Before I started the detail work, I textured
built using good old modelling techniques. enough character that could be seen from the steel plates by bouncing a Dremel tool
I knew the Schürzen needed some the various open hatches, omitting the  with a large gr inding bit. Tamiya extra thin
attention and a few details had to added or  engine completely, as it would not be cement was brushed over the affect to
removed to make this a January 1945 seen. I built the interior per the instructions smooth out the rough texture. Not quite
production model. Trumpeter has seemed only adding Aber MG barrels. The radio satisfied with the result, Mr Surfacer 500
to give you a very late model, which only a received a few wires to make it look the  was stippled on with an old brush to bring
handful were produced at the very end of  part. When the construction was finished, it up to spec.
the war. I will highlight the changes I made everything was painted with the standard
as I go along. off white and red primer colours using
 various Tamiya acrylics and weathered it to

12
 ANDY GULDEN’S P A N Z E R I V A U S F. J

Following the directions for the most part but

adding details as I go, the rest of the construction
 went pretty well. The following areas received a
little extra refinement

• Aber fire extinguisher was added

• Aber gun cleaning rods for the King Tiger were
modified down to size
• Aber tool clamps
• Scratch built tool holders and stops from scrap
photo etch frets
• Replaced grab handles with appropriate sized
brass rod
• Aber Muzzle break for the main gun
• Scratch built gun cleaning rod brackets from
brass stock and Aber clamps
• Nuts and bolts from Meng were used to detail
the various Schürzen brackets
• Various weld beads made from 2-part epoxy
and shaped with a wet cocktail stick 
• Modified the jack block to the last configuration
seen using a spring and chain strap
• Removed one front fender and made the other
 workable with homemade hinges

13
 New woven mesh
screen and brackets
 was a big
improvement to the
look of the shurtzen
screens compared to
the the original kit
 versions on the left .

 To add a bit of interest two of the r oad wheels received some
damage in the form of a fractured section and stripping one of  models, I could, rather accurately, dimension the mesh wire size
the outer rubber sections. The driver’s side front fender was
heated ever so slightly with a candle flame and the soft plastic
 was twisted and bent to show some battle damage. Some of the
rivet detail needed to be replaced following these modifications.
One area I knew I that need some attention was the Schürzen
 wire mesh screens on the hu ll. The Trumpeter effort in thi s area
 was less than ideal. They were under detailed, and very toy li ke.
With the help of the Panzer Track volume on the PZ IV, H and J
and spacing. I was lucky to find some #30 stainless steel mesh
from an industrial supply warehouse that worked perfectly. I
scaled up the Panzer Track drawing to 1/16 scale and went about
building them with plastic strip and brass stock bent to the
appropriate shapes. I was pretty satisfied with the results, as they 
 were a big improvement over th e kit parts. It was now off to the
paint shop.

Painting
Per my usual steps, I started with a good coat of Tamiya grey  and even some flat yellow plus a few drops of white in spots.
primer from the can and pre-shaded all the corners, panel joints  Always being careful to keep the lightest colours on highest
and running gear with a mixture of Tamiya NATO Black and Flat surfaces. Late war J’s seem to have a pretty constant, factory 
Earth before applying the base coat. Knowing the weathering applied camouflage pattern. Armed with some good quality 
process was going to be rather extreme on this tank I opted for a reference pictures I proceeded to lay down the camo colours the
rather bright combination of colours. The Dark yellow base was best I could. I mixed the green and brown using various Tamiya
built up from various colours starting with Tamiya Khaki and paints being mindful to keep them as light as possible without
building up of light coats of Dark Yellow, Dark Yellow and white changing the tone value of each.

14
 Weathering
My first step in the weathering process was to create a thick  treatments. AK washes and pigments finished up the streaking
buildup of mud along the hull sides and running gear. A mixture
of Celluclay, fine sand, white glue and earth toned acrylic paints
 were mixed up and liberally applied in logical locations were
mud would collect. Once dry, many applications of thin washes
using Tamiya Flat Earth, Flat Brown and NATO Black thinned with
tap water were brushed on until a proper look was achieved. I
decided to add a final layer of grit using the new AK Interactive
“Dark Earth” Terrain. This added a nice scale top layer for further
and overall grime of hull. Once a satisfied result was achieved,
the same treatment was given to the road wheels and tracks. I
 won’t bore you with the repetitive nature of the rest of the
 weathering but the standard filters, chips, washes and pigments
finished up the process. I decided to add some interest and I
applied a different camo pattern and a scruffy white wash to one
on the turret Schürzen plates. Detail painting of the tools and
accessories completed the model.
15
 At this point it was ti me to modify the
figures to fit the tank and start
thinking about the base before the
 weathering went too far. This is also a
good time to arrange and place all
the external gear and accessories
that will add some character.
• Used Apoxy-Sculpt to make the
 various tarps.
• Sourced spare track from a
Remote Control manufacture.
• Built and painted a fuel drum and
Jerry cans f rom Classy Hobby.
• Built up ground work with foam
insulation and framed the sides
 with bass wood.
• Contoured and smoothed out the
ground work using plaster.
16
Base
 A thick layer of the same mud mix 
used on the hull was built up on the
foam base. While still wet, broken
twigs, tree roots, small stones and a
 wire fence were pushed into the
base. After letting this mess dry for 
an hour or so, the tank was placed in
its final position, allowing it to sink 
 just a bit into the ground work. The
same color treatment as the tank’s
mud was applied to the ground work,
resulting in a nice continues finish.
 AK’s new 2-part resin water kit was used to build up a
few locations of standing water. I fol lowed the
directions and built up the affect in thin layers, a few
drops of Field Drab from Vallejo added a nice muddy 
look . “Green Stuff World” leaf punch provided a nice
detail with scale leaves punched from dried leaves.

Figures
 All 5 figures n eed a bit of work before painting could
start. The standing tank commander is an Alpine
offering that was con verted from Wehrmacht to SS.
 The seated figures are from the outstanding but long
out of production Tiger I set from S&T, sculpted buy 
John Rosengr ant. They needed a bit of work to get
them to fit on a Panzer IV, mostly by adding some

17
 bulk to the bottom of their jackets were they sat on the
 various surfaces. The grenadier standing on the
ground is from Jeff Shiu and was a visibly larger than
the others so a bit of his legs and boot were sanded
off to get him close to the same size. As long as you
don’t place near the others, it’s hard to tell the
difference. One a good coat of primer was applied, the
base was sprayed using various Tamiya greens and
grays. Vallejo Model Color was
then used for the highlight,
shadows and accessories. Artist
oils were used for all flesh tones.
Some wire pins and two-part epoxy 
secured them to the various surfaces.

 This was a fun overall project and I was pretty happy 

 with the result. As trumpeter keeps bringing the larger 
scale vehicles, they’ll keep making their way onto my 
 work bench.

18
19
  WHEN I stumbled across the excellent book “Sturmgeschützbrigade
191” by Bruno Bork I immediately fell in love with the subject. The units
from the so called Büffel-Brigade (Buffalo brigade) modified their StuGs
 with a layer of additional steel welded to the hull and fender. Besides
that the commander’s copula received a projectile deflector and all the
empty spaces behind the field-applied armour were filled with concrete
for further protection.

With all the modifications these vehicles almost looked like small
Jagdpanthers and this unique look was my main motivation to create
this model.
 Techniques like the hairspray technique offer us some very realistic
effects, but I still struggle when it comes to painting soft materials like
cloth and figures. When you reach a certain level of quality and
knowledge it’s very hard to work outside your comfort zone. It’s too
easy to just repeat what you are used to and so I wanted to
challenge myself with lots of stowage and two crew figures.
Maybe this build can inspire some of you to look out for unique
subjects and also to challenge yourself while working on your weak 
spots. I swore a lot during process, smashed the model into pieces
thanks to a small accident and repainted the figures two times, but in
the end I learned a lot, gained more confidence and best of all, I
finished a model with a strong emotional connection. Let me guide
 you through the project.

20
 M a n u e l R e i n h e r ’s
B ü f f e l - B r i g a d e S t u G I I I

21
 Using the nice StuG III G from Dragon I decided to scratch
build the add-on armour using thin plastic card. After the
application the weld seams were created using ProCreate  
putty. To structure the welds I used a round profile rod
attached to a pine vice.
 After the welds dried I filled the empty space behind the amour with
“concrete” using also Pro-create. The surface was textured with a
wire brush. ProCreate is a two component putty, but I’m sure other 
brands will work with similar results.

Nice resin casts from Legend

 were used as a base for the
stowage. Additional items
from different brands and  To show the extra weight and
tarps made from ProCreate tell the story of a veteran I
filled the rest of the empty  lowered the suspension. As the
deck. Dragon kit has adjustable
suspension arms that task was
quite easy. Simply glue the first
and last roadwheel in the
desired position and once dry 
 you can adjust all the other 
roadwheels to the right
position.

22
 After a short bath in soapy water it was time to start the compressor. I didn’t  The whole vehicle received a layer of hairspray which I decanted into a
use primer, instead I mixed a red/brown colour using Tamiya paints. To get a dropper style to spray it using my airbrush for greater control. The hairspray 
nice smooth surface I added FX-22 clear to the paint and sprayed it with my  provides an ‘unstable’ base for further colours.
airbrush thinned with lacquer thinner. A quick misting of AK Satin varnish
unified the surface.

For the dark-yellow I used a mix of Mig 0011 & Mig 012 thinned with Vallejo  After that I used several old brushes and blades to carefully work the surface
airbrush thinner. I did a very subtle modulation to separate the structural  with warm water revealing the first layers of colour. I tried to stay as much in
details changing the mix between the two colours. scale as possible.
23
  After the base chipping is done another layer of hairspray was applied. Now I  yellow. To represent this, the camouflage was applied in a very random and
mixed two camouflage colours using for the brown: Model Air 71.249 & Mig patchy style. Once I was happy with the look I started the chipping treatment
014, and for the green: Mig 003 & Model Air 71.250. of the two camo colours.
 According to the book by Bruno Bork the vehicles arrived at the front in dark 

For the markings I used home-made stencils.
I chose a suitable font and printed the
numbers on a piece of paper. After that I
traced the numbers onto a piece of Tamiya
masking tape and applied the mask to the
model.
For this model I started the weathering with a  They are cheap, very flexible in use and because of 
different approach. Instead of working my way  their drying time you have very good control of your 
through different steps I tried to include as many  effects. I placed a range of colours on a piece of 
effects in a single work session limited to specific cardboard (to draw out excess oil) and started to
area of the vehicle. This way I was able to get an place small amounts of colours to a specific section
early idea about how the final model will look like, of the vehicle. Weathering like filters, washes, chips,
and also the process is more creative and flexible first layers of dirt and rust effects were created in a
than following a strict order of steps. single session.
My preferred weathering tools are oil colours.

 To keep me motivated I switched tasks and worked on the worn, chipped wood which is part of the For the tracks I used ‘Blacken-it’ for the first
stowage. Small strips of wood were darkened with thinned acrylic colour and then the excellent time. The application is quite easy and I really 
Distress Paint from ‘Ranger’ was applied in an even coat. During the drying process the very realistic liked the result. An old toothbrush helped to
cracks appeared. The planks were painted individually and once assembled, the whole element  work the agent into every corner. After a few
received a treatment with oil colours. minutes the tracks show a nice base for 
further weathering.

My goal was a vehicle operating in the  
autumn/spring time and therefore mud and dirt is
an essential element. I wanted to test some of the
new products available and started with TE08 Light
Grey Earth from Wilder applied using an old brush.  
24
Ammo of Mig Heavy Mud was used to define the In the end I switched back to good old
surface further. I speckled the paste to the lower  pigments to create the muddy texture. Using
sections of the model. Using white spirit as a  various pigments applied dry I built up the mud
thinner I also applied the mix to the road wheels. layer. A few drops of thinner, applied with a
Although I really liked the effect on the roadwheels pipette fixed everything in place. Although not
the lower hull didn’t satisfy me. durable still this method works best for me.
 With the initial weathering done I
switched once again to oils and
added streaks of rust and dirt.
I simply painted some runs in
suitable dark brown and rust colours.
 Then I blended the streaks in a
 vertical movement using an almost
dry clean brush.

One big challenge for me was the

stowage. I’ve never done it in this
amount, and painting soft materials
such as cloth is still something I find
tricky. After a base coat with my 
 Airbrush I painted each piece using th in
layers of acrylics from Vallejo. After the
painting it was weathered like the rest of 
the vehicle. The fuel barrel made out of 
zinc was painted using the very nice
range of metal colours from Games
Workshop. It was weathered using oils
and some gloss varnish around the cap
area.

Disaster strikes as I managed to knock the model

from my workbench! After a cold beer and a nights
sleep I tackled the repair work which required
some retouching of paint damage after restoring
some welds and cementing parts back in place.

 Additionally paper leaves from Plusmodel and

 As Büffel means ‘buffalo’ in German I added a  To enhance the look of the mud areas I paid special leaves cut with the punch sets from RPToolz were
slightly modified resin skull from Mantis. This attention to a wide variety of textures. I cut small pieces strategically placed to the model and fixed with
detail helped to personalize t he vehicle further. of hemp for the imitation of dried grass and fixed them super glue. After that they were blended in with the
using the mud colours from Mig. mud colors.

25
  The last important element I wanted to add were the crew
figures. It has been seven years since I finished my last
figures so it felt like starting from scratch again. The crew
is from the ‘Tank’ range, I improved one of the heads
using an excellent item from Alpine and added some
further details with Magic Sculp. The crew was painted
 with acrylics from Ammo and Vallejo.
I started the uniforms by airbrushing a light and dark 
 version of the base colour using my airbrush. Then I
painted the green and brown patches using reference
images. The patches were highlighted and all the details
outlined with a dark brown color. Once I was happy I
added thin rainmarks using a brown colour. Using a high
quality brush and carefully diluted paint is a must for tasks
like this.

26
27
 Panzerkampfwagen
David Parker builds Trumpeter’s 1:16 kit
 This installment involves a little jumping about between different
areas as the time to start thinking about paint approached. I
needed to complete parts of the electrical system that are
mounted on the engine bulkhead and with several variations for  think about some painting. To minimise the need for masking it
the position of these parts, quite a bit of research was needed
before I was happy to proceed. Next it was back into the engine
bay looking at heat shields to protect various components from
 The battery starting change over switch is mounted on th e firewall. It appears
that the exact position for this and the master switch differs depending on the
air filter choice and possibly manufacturing factory. The basic shape was
constructed from squares of plastic.
 To form the connection points for the cables I simply crimped the ends of the  
cables using a pair of pliers.
I set about adding detail to the change over switch with ABER photoetched
screw heads and plastic rod for the various connections. The connection
28 points are covered with a protective plate which I made from brass sheet and
self-adhesive aluminum foil for the wiring diagram placard mounted on it.
Part Fifteen
the heat of the exhaust manifolds. This marked the end of the
construction phase of the engine bay at least and considering the
future progress of the project it seemed like an appropriate time to
seemed to be sensible to pre-paint the separate inner floor panel
and whilst I had the airbrush running to also paint some of the
other completed internal parts.
As the postion of the switch varies so does the location of the electrical
cables. I used 1.5mm lead wire to make the cable and using 5 minute epoxy 
glue to firmly secure it in position. As I was not planning to detail the battery 
connection below the floor this crude fixing was ideal. At this stage I was
unaware that my change over switch was too wide and would need to be
corrected.
 The switch is test fitted to finalise the position of the cables.
 And the cover test fitted too. At this stage I began to realise that I would need  The revised switch is considerably narrower and closer in width to the heater 
to shorten the width of my switch to bring it into scale, something that is  vent on the firewall.
always a danger when you are estimating sizes.

 Another component of the tank’s electrical system is the master switch which  The master switch is construc ted from plastic with some spare photoetched
is also a part who’s position varied. Evidence for the Ausf.H suggests that it is fret used to construct the bracket.
mounted to the side of the air intake on a bracket.

Back to the engine bay now where I constructed this heat shield for the  This was not correct so the bracket was adapted to attach to the engine it
exhaust pipe from brass sheet. These thin sheet metal parts don’t usually   what seemed like a logical way, a certain amount of guesswork being needed.
survive and initially I thought it was mounted on the rear wall with this bracket.

 The rear wall bracket was in fact to mount another heat shield which  The shield was again constructed from brass sheet because it was easy to
protected the electrical boxes mounted in the corner of the hull. bend to shape and yet strong once the mounting bracket is soldered in place.
29
 1 2
I needed to make a new universal joint for the engine flywheel because the
kit part really did not look correct or suitable to adapt so I had to start from
scratch. 1 Starting with a big section of square plastic rod I drilled out the
centre hole and I used a burr in a motor toll to cut away the curve at the  
base. 2  The shape was refined and the mouth of the joint cut open. 3  The
4 5
I modified the other connector on the drive shaft by rounding the edges and  
adding the pair of plastic discs. Whilst not entirely accurate it is likely to be
hidden from view on the finished model.
Some final missing details on the engine were the heat shields which protect  
components from the heat of the exhaust manifold. This shield for the oil tank  tensioner. The shield is bolted onto the dynamo mounting straps by two bolts.
 was formed from some aluminium foil with three ribs embossed lengthways.
30  Two plastic card supports were used to mount it at an angle onto the oil tank.
3
sides of the plastic were trimmed away to the correct size. 4  The rounded
shape was then created using sponge sanding pads. 5 Discs of plastic were
added where the central bar fits and this bar was salvaged from the kit part.
The cast texture was added using a coat of Mr Surfacer. 6  The joint was
trimmed off the plastic rod and mounted on a disc.
6
Another last minute job in the engine bay was the wiring frame to carry the
electrical output cables from the auxiliary generator, made from strip with
squares of plastic for the cable clamp points.
The dynamo also has its own shield with a slot to accommodate the
In order to get this to fit I had to remove the electrical outlet socket from the
dynamo so that it could be repositioned below the shield.
 Left  The
new outlet socket was constructed from plastic rod and fitted to the
dynamo with a pre-drilled hole in the outlet for it to be wired up at a later 
stage.

Below Finally it seemed an appropriate time to consider fixing the inner hull in

place and before doing so, to get some paint applied to the interior while the
parts were still separate. I began by applying a primer of Mr Oxide Red
Surfacer 1000 to the areas that had yet to be primed like the firewall and
engine bay walls. The separate inner floor made this easy and I only had to
mask the colour split where the firewall is positioned. Although this gives a
good colour I then applied Vallejo Cavalry red over the primer as this would
permit me to easily brush paint any parts or repair the paintwork with a
perfect match. For the interior Ivory I used Lifecolour UA232 Elfenbein which I
think best replicates the real thing. Both colours were sealed with a coat of 
Satin varnish.

Dry fitting the main parts of the engine bay. Happily all the pin marks and
filled holes on the rear plate are now invisible.

 The engine was given an overall coat of Gunze RLM66 during which I Constant handling of the firewall over the months had caused some damage
managed to drop it causing severe damage to the oil cooler. It could have  which needed to be repaired. In the course of this I removed the access
been so much worse and I was able to repair the damaged parts and finish doors and added the insulating strips to the lips of the doors. Flattened lead
the painting of the engine.  wire was used as it was easy to shape around the corners. 31
 With the repairs made and the doors refitted the crew side of the firewall was With painting underway it made sense to paint other parts of the interior that
given a coat of Lifecolor Elfenbein.  were complete like the transmission which was painted in Gunze RLM 75

 The internal floor could now be glued in place and I

began to add the internal welds which form the hull.
Rolled lengths of Magic Sculp were positioned in
the hull.

I used my own tool made from brass tube to texture

the putty and the excess was cleaned away.

 The welds were then brushed over with a wet brush to blur and soften the
pattern to give this finished effect.

Right Once the putty has dried I brush painted a coat of Mr Finishing Surfacer 
1500 Grey over the welds. This seals any gaps and enhances the soft effect
of the pattern.

32
Keeping the batch painting going I dealt with the  The Battery start switch could now be installed on the firewall and the cables clamped in place with some
battery start switch, primer pump and fuel valve, plastic bolts courtesy of the RP Toolz Hex Punch and Die. Once these were painted the protective cover 
using a base coat of Alclad. the placards on the could be fitted.
fuel valve were brush painted.

 A small detail that I almost overlooked were the internal bracings for the  The firewall was given a subtle wash prior to being installed in the hull while it
suspension bump stops inside the hull. These are hidden by the fuel tanks in  was still easy to access all the details.
the centre of the hull but are visible in the engine bay and in the bow.

 The restricted access to the base of the bulkhead made adding welds using  The new welds were then painted to match the rest of the engine bay and the
putty difficult so I used sections of Slater’s plastic rod in these area which floor was weathered using a mix of splatters and puddled oil. The initial oil
 were then soaked with liquid cement to create a weld texture. spatters were made with Lifecolour oil and the bigger puddles and drips were
applied using Wilder Old Grease.

 To begin fitting out the engine bay I started to add the electrical cables for   The cables were painted using Vallejo dull aluminium and the rings painted to
the generator. These were made from a woven cable supplied as tow rope in match the colours used in the original vehicle. Cable clamps were added
 Tamiya’s 1:48 tank kits. The colour coding rings were made using Albion using strips of aluminium foil with photoetched bolts. 33
 Alloys aluminium tube which was cut open and crimped around the cables.
 The project continues in the next Issue
36
37
  The M47 was the result of the U.S. included fire control upgrades as well as I have known for a while that I wanted to
needing a new line of tanks early in the the diesel engine from the M60. The most make a Spanish M47 with the 105mm
1950’s as the war in Korea required many   visible aspect of this upgrade is the new gun. I like the idea of a tank that was built
of the M26 and M46 tanks that would engine deck for the diesel engine. Some in the early 1950’s being upgraded as far 
have been used in other theatres of  nations continued to upgrade the M47 to as it could go and keeping pace with the
operation. The hope was to have give similar performance of the M60 and M60 line. I chose the Spanish version
developed the T42 for service, but as the fitted a 105mm main gun. The Spanish since they took it past the development
need for tanks was greater than the time  Army chose to upgrade some of their  stage and actually fielded the vehicle.
to develop a new tank, the turret for the M47’s with the Rheinmetall 105-30
 T42 was mated with the M46 hull. Over  smoothbore main gun to create the Once I received the Takom M47 E/M I
8500 M47’s were produced between 1951 M47E2. Many nations also eliminated the began construction and quickly 
and 1953. The M47 never saw combat assistant driver and coax machine gun assembled most of the hull and
service in Korea and was soon replaced in and used that space for a crew heater  suspension. While I was working on the
U.S. inventories by the M48. The M47’s and extra ammunition stowage. hull, I contacted Javier Villarroya via his
 were then exported to many nations While the M47 has been used for years email fjvillarroya@yahoo.com (I don’t
around the world. Though it was short  with many nations and conf licts, modellers believe he has a website for his products).
lived in the U.S., the M47 served those have only had the veteran Italeri M47 kit to Javier is from Spain and makes resin
nations it was exported to for many years  work with which dates back to the 1970’s. conversions and vehicles of Spanish
and in numerous conflicts, with some It has stood the test of time quite well, subjects. Of particular interest to me was
countries still using them or variants of  however, it only offers the standard M47 the conversion of the M47E2 for the old
them today.  variant and needed work and donor kits to Italeri kit and the 105mm gun. The Rh 105
change it to something along the lines of  is similar but slightly different in
Since the M47 had such a long service life a version with a diesel engine M47, I appearance to the standard L7/M68
around the world, many would be myself have a few Italeri M47’s and donor  105mm. As it turns out he has updated
upgraded to keep pace with evolving kits in storage. Recently Takom began his conversion to cover the changes
technologies. A common upgrade was the releasing an updated M47 line, thereby  needed for the Takom kit.
M(odern) or E(urope) upgrade. This negating the need to build a conversion.

One of the items that Javier pointed out to
me was that the Spanish M47 E1 and E2s
moved the last road wheel forward versus
backward as the Takom kit has done. The
last road wheel was moved during the
diesel engine conversion to make room
for the oil pan of the engine. M47’s
converted in the U.S. had the road wheel
moved back, where as those converted  
in Spain and perhaps elsewhere in Europe
moved the wheel forward. In short, check  smooth the surface for the eventual
 your photo references carefully. For the
Spanish M47E variants all the road wheels  
other than the first and second road wheel and outer distance between the housings
should be equidistant from each other. of the middle torsion bars. These
I used a razor saw removed from its measurements were locked into the
handle to careful cut the last torsion bar  caliper and this was used to draw a line
housing from the hull. The razor saw on the hull based on the distance from the
provided and nice thin cut. This was next to last housing. A ruler was used to
made somewhat difficult by the fact that I draw a line on the along the bases of the
had already attached the lower hull parts. housing. These lines formed a box for me
The removal of the housing was not to reattach my housing and the hole left
flawless and did require some sanding to from the removal of the housing was filled
in. The bump stop and the shock absorber 
reattachment of the housing.  were moved forward also, all of these
A caliper was used to measure the inner  parts need to be moved forward 3mm.

 This shows the road wheels in position as the Takom kit provides. Note the Here the last road wheel has been moved forward to be equidistant with the
gap between the last two road wheels. While this positioning is correct for  other wheels with the only large gap being between the first and second
the M47M’s, the rear wheel may need to be moved forward if building a road wheel. This is the common arrangement seen on M47E’s in service
M47E.  with the Spanish Army.
38
  The movement of the last road wheel had the
unfortunate knock-on effect of coming up two
track links short (one link on each side, though I
moved both to one side. I positioned this shortfall
under the front fender to help reduce the visibility  primed. Once the mud guards are installed the replacements will not be noticeable at all!
of any solution I created.
It has been observed that there is a difference in
the bulge for the bow machine gun between the
 Takom and Italeri kits. Photographic evidence
shows that both are correct and this is simply a
difference in the factory a particular vehicle was
manufactured.
 The model prior to painting. I had primed the
suspension and lower hull as mentioned already. At
this point I hadn’t decided if I would use the M2
machine gun.
Plastic strips were cut to the proper length for each track pad and laminated to create
replacement track pads and to create new tread. Spare connectors were used to join the
pads. The tracks and lower hull were primed black while exposed prior to the addition of the
upper hull parts. While the replacement track pads are not perfect, they are hard to find when
It appears that the Spanish M47E2’s used the
 The infantry phone box and gun cradle
armoured air filter boxes. The Takom kit provides
provided by Takom are incorrect for a
the unarmored version. I had the armoured
M47E2. The upgrade set from Javier 
housing as spares from an AFV Club M60A2 kit
provides the correct version. Supports
and decided to use that with the remaining parts
 were added for the phone box.
coming from the Takom kit. Javier does provide
resin replacments in his update set but I always
prefer to bond plastic to plastic when possible.
 Another feature of the Spanish M47E2 is the
use of German style smoke grenade launchers.
 Takom’s other version of the M47 pr ovide parts
for a German M47. Fortunately these parts are
on the sprues of the M47 E/M kit. Some chain
and the nipple for the launcher covers was
added. The smoke launchers are in
the way of the lower rails on both
sides of the turret, which requires
both rails to be shortened.
39
  The distinctive feature of the Spanish M47E2 is the Rh105-30
gun. While it is similar to the L7 series, it is different enough that
the builder will have to scratch build one, modify a L7 barrel or 
buy one. The only aftermarket one that I am aware of is from
Javier Villarroya. The barrel that he produces is designed to be
attached to the mantlet without a cover. Most photos show the
M47E2 with the mantlet cover. I modified the kit provided cover 
along with a resin portion from DEF Models and some putty to
attach the barrel. It may have been better to have made the
entire cover from putty, but my sculpting skills
are not particularly good.

 Trying to decide what is the correct colour for the Spanish from more green to more brown. After the initial painting was
 vehicles proved to be a bit challenging. Photos ranged from a done I painted various highlights and features in different
brown finish to green. However, most show a brown tone to shades to start adding variation and visual interest to the model.
them. My first attempt was to use a mix of Tamiya Dark Green  A gloss coat was applied and decals added. I then used oil
 with some Dark Green 2 and JA green. Once this had dried I paints to enhance the shadow areas and borders of the model.
checked the reference photos and realized this was just too I first applied the oil. After drying for several minutes the excess
green and had no discernible brown tone to it. oil paint was removed the remainder blended in with the finish.
Unhappy with my first attempt at matching the colour, I
trialed several alternatives. I was finally satisfied
 with a mix of Tamiya Khaki and NATO
Black in a ratio of around 20:5.
I noticed that depending on
lighting and
temperature
adjustments to
processing of images
the colour easily shifts

40

I have been using the ‘chipping’ method to create mud
spattering and streaking lately. I like the effects that this
technique creates and the reliability of it. I begin by applying
 Vallejo chipping fluid to areas of interest, i n this case the hull
sides, front and rear as well as the very forward upper areas
of the hull. After this has dried for about a half an hour a
thinned dirt coat of Tamiya Buff was applied. Once dry, a
brush dampened with warm water was used to remove the
excess of the colour. On vertical surfaces this was drawn
down to create streaks. On vertical surfaces and in tight areas
such as corners and road wheels a stippling
motion with the brush was used to create a
spattered and uneven look to the dirt
accumulation.
I wanted to add dust and dirt accumulation to
the rest of the vehicle, but not in as heavy of 
accumulation as the lower portions of the
Once the oils had dried for a few days I
applied another coat of gloss. A black-
brown pin wash was applied to all the
deepest recesses. Some chipping was
added with thinned Vallejo black grey.
Lights and optics were first painted
silver and lear acrylics (blue and red)
 were then painted as appropriate.
 Tracks and remaining details were
brush painted. A coat of Vallejo matt
 varnish was then applied and graphite
pencil was used on some of the edges
to give a worn metallic feel.
Rust coloured washes were applied to
the crew heater exhaust and around
some of the handles.
hull. I turned to enamels, in particular I used Wilder Brown
Mud Effect to create the next amount of accumulation. I
 would paint random blotches onto the surfaces. After drying, a
brush dampened with paint thinner was used to ‘push’ the
excess paint away and distribute the remainder over the
surface. The turret received the same treatment with the
addition of rain streaks.
 The tracks were first dry brushed with Tamiya Flat Earth paint.
Mud coloured pigments were then rubbed on to create the
dirt effect. The moisture stains around the tow pintles was
created by mixing pigment with fluid effects and painting the
mixture on carefully following reference.
 The addition of some pigments competed
 work on the M47E2.
41
 It was enjoyable to build the penultimate M47.
 The unexpected challenges of havi ng to update
the suspension and build extra track links made
the build even more enjoyable and unique. The
 Takom kit itself is a pleasure to build and even
though adaptions were needed, it was a great
starting point for a M47 E series versus the option
of overhauling the veteran Italeri offering.

42
43
 new releases
KEEPING TRACK

MTVR, American Special

No.3031
Carl Schulze
Published by Tankograd
Soft back format, 64 pages, English
and German text
 www.bookworldws.co.uk 

 Already available from Trumpeter and a new release on the cards
this is a great time to stock-up on reference of the USMC’s  
 workhorse in it’s numerous gui ses. Tankograd’s popular visual
format is followed and there’s some excellent shots of the truck at
 work with a great selection of colour schemes operating
throughout the World. The book covers a huge range of MTVR
versions with tipper trucks, cargo, armoured recce, tractor and
extended bed amongst others. great modelling inspiration and
reference especially for colour schemes and weathering.

Leopard 2A6 No. 5070 in Tankograd’s series takes a look at up and walk-around style photographs and
Development, the technical aspects of the Leopard 2A6 and factory-style diagrams providing the modeller 
description, technology  starts by detailing the series of upgrade  with invaluable reference in an easily accessed
Ralph Zwilling programs and then chapters broken into format. Images of disassembled hulls, turrets
Published by Tankograd subject areas such as electrical system, removed and empty engine bays are all here
Soft back format, 80 pages, English heating system, power pack… pretty much making this an inexpensive and essential read
and German text everything inside and out. Alongside the for Leopard modellers.
 www.bookworldws.co.uk  detailed text is an excellent selection of close-

Leopard 2A6 In action  An ideal companion to 5070 is 5071 wi th some differences between the ‘M’ and ‘M+’ and also
and variants fantastic action shots of the big cat and great  what the future developments have in store.
Ralph Zwilling modelling subjects with additional exercise Crew functions and workstations also feature
Published by Tankograd camouflage and markings. Further reference is providing another highly informative piece of 
46 Soft back format, 56 pages, English provided with 1:35 detailed plan drawings and Leopard literature.
and German text a very easily understood information on the
 www.bookworldws.co.uk 
 Panzerkampftagen IV   The first book of a batch of re-prints from
in combat  Tankograd which tie-in nicely with some
Markus Zöllner  recent kit releases (post-war British
Published by Tankograd subjects such as Chieftain and ’432), and
Soft back format, 80 pages, being quite partial to anything Panzer IV 
English and German text related this collection of ‘in the field
 www.bookworldws.co.uk  images’ of the Wehrmacht’s workhorse is
 very much worth a look if you missed it
first time around. The full spectrum from
 A to J is covered with some very well
chosen images (many unfamiliar) with
detailed captions.
Our thanks to Bookworld for our 
 Tankograd samples.

 Another set of re-prints which will be welcome to Briti sh post-war enthusiasts

BAOR British Infantry 
 with the ‘Early Years’ covering vehicles fr om 1945 to 1979 and the ‘Final
 The early years/  Brigade, Berlin
 Years’ dealing with 1980 to 1994. A great selection of images and v ehicles
 The Late Years
are covered in each book with soft-skins, armour and engineering vehicles
Peter Blume  Andreas Kirchhoff 
 with detailed captions and descriptions of BAOR organisation and
Published by Tankograd Published by Tankograd
deployment over the years. Another popular modelling subject is vehicles in
Soft back format, 64 pages, Soft back format, 64 pages,
the fetching ‘Berlin’ urban camo scheme, everything you might need to know
English and German text English and German text
is covered within with a great selection of photographs and plans of the
 www.bookworldws.co.uk   www.bookworldws.co.uk 
colour schemes. All three of these re-releases are recommended to any fans
of British vehicles of the period.

Eduard  The guys at Eduard of ten take a break from their  36358 is for the IBG Scammell Pioneer SV2S with lots
aircraft upgrades and produce some very nice AFV  of useful fine detail as has set 36359 for Tamiya’s new
subjects. A couple of photoetch sets have been  Valentine which also includes full mudguards / fenders.
released to suit kits which we’ve featured recently.

 AMMO of Mig
 A couple of diorama products from
 Ammo in giant 250ml tubs; 2204 is
an acrylic water effect ‘Slow River 
Water’ and 2105 acrylic mud ‘Muddy 
Ground’. The water has a green cast
to it and can be poured straight from
the tub, the consistency is such that
ripples could be formed as it dries
although it is designed to self-level.
We found this to dry pretty quickly 
 with a high gloss sheen and could
see it working well built in thin(ish)
layers. One of a range of earth
textures is this ‘Muddy Ground’ mix 
 which, as you can see, represents
heavy wet mud very well with various
depths of textures and a convincing
sheen. Very convenient and
economical products with pleasing 47
results, find the full range at
 www.migjimenez.com
  A new line f rom SABOT here with No.1 in
their ‘Foto File’ which looks as if it will
evolve into monographs of unpublished
images providing some nice reference.
 The Krupp Protze with it’s distinctive
appearance and big 4 cylinder boxer 
engine must have been considered well
ahead of it’s time and has been a popular 
modelling subject (Bronco in fact ready to
release a series of new kits). The quality of 
the images is varied but all included
because of obvious interest and rarity 
covering three versions; standard troop
transporter, 37mm PaK transport and
searchlight transport unit. Some great
Krupp Protze and variants images provide modelling inspiration and
Published by SABOT  probably difficult due to the original
Chris Mrosko, Brett Avants, source, but it would have been nice to
Pearce Browning have at least some of the photos
Softback format 46 pages captioned.
ISBN 9781947552005
 www.sabotpub.com

Straight into number 2 ‘Foto File’ with a

look at the ‘Standard Diesel’ German lorry 
 which was produced by nine companies
 with production beginning i n 1934 only the
three axle version (from a 2,3 and 4 axle
design) seeing production of over 14,000
units and serving long into WWII after 
production stopped in 1940. As the Krupp
Protze images, quality varies and they’re
 void of any captions but all the images are
previously unpublished with the field
kitchen and radio truck featured along with
the standard cargo truck. These first two
books will be welcome reference for 
German soft-skin modellers and
Einheitsdiesel enthusiasts and a nice change from the
Published by SABOT  usual ‘big-cat’ armour subjects. Available
Chris Mrosko, Brett Avants, from SABOT direct or specialist book and
Pearce Browning hobby stockists Worldwide.
Softback format 46 pages
ISBN 9781947552012
 www.sabotpub.com

M1A1 SA in Iraqi
Service
Published by SABOT 
Chris Mrosko, Brett Avants,
Pearce Browning
Softback format 65 pages plus
decals
ISBN 9781947552012

 This is the fourth Abrams-focussed release in SABOT’s photo mesh stand-off armour. We also have a selection of colour 
reference series with more for fans of the Abrams. These Iraqi profiles and some very welcome 1:35 decals by the masters at
M1A1s have a hard life and make great weathering subjects for  Cartograf to represent the featured vehicles. Quite niche but
modellers with this collection of images proving the point with offering a unique reference for these vehicles and certainly a nice
48 ideal reference with overall action shots and walk-around style change from the usual M1 subjects with plenty of weathering
close ups included especially of the unique features such as the potential as the book shows.
 Fallen Giants
 The Combat Debut of
the T-35A Tank 
Francis Pulham
Published by Fonthill Media
Softback format, 143 pages
ISBN 9781781556269
 www.fonthillmedia.com

 The five-turreted beast that was the T-35 may have looked number of the vehicles with production numbers which are cross-
impressive in the Soviet military parades but quickly showed itself  referenced with maps giving a unique insight to these monsters. A
to be outdated on the battlefield as it tried to hold it’s own against chapter details the armour that served alongside the T-35s and a
the German invaders. This new book doesn’t look to detail the final review of their combat performance along with some
technical side of the T-35 but it’s demise on the battlefields of the attractive colour profiles. Essential reading for any modeller of 
Eastern front documented (largely) by German troops with some Soviet armour which certainly had us digging out the recent
fascinating images. The author has managed to identify a large Zvezda kit!

 T-60 Small Tank and

 Variants

James Kinnear and Yuri Pasholok 

Published by Canfora
Hardback format 176 pages
ISBN 9789198232561
 www.canfora.se

 This is the first in a n ew series from Sweden's Canfora, 'Red
Machines' will focus on Soviet armour and in this case the  
diminutive T-60 (very timely with MiniArt releasing a brand new
kit!). Canfora's usual high quality design and production presents
the information very nicely; this book is packed with period photos
(both in the field and factory shots), original diagrams and
illustrations, contemporary plan drawings and colour profiles. The
text is very informative whilst still being easy reading with
translated quotes from Soviet manuals and of ficial documents
with some tales of heroic combat involving the T-60. A
comprehensive walk-around colour section will prove invaluable
modelling reference. If your a fan of conversions a chapter 
containing AA gun versions and 'Katyusha' rocket launcher 
amongst other quirky prototypes (including a winged glider T-60!)
49
should get you thinking. This series looks like it could be an
absolute 'must' for Soviet armour enthusiasts.
 E35-259
E35-256

E35-259 E35-258
E35-255

EA35-199

E.T. Model E35-260 E35-257

Great to receive a batch of new releases from China’s E.T. with pattern vents running along the hull. Also applicable is EA35-119
the quality consistent as always. In 1:16 are two sets of WWII  which provides a late smoke candle rack for German subjects.
German tool clamps (a photoetch favourite!) J16-001 are early  E35-260 is a big set to hike-up the Hobby Boss ZTZ-99A and also
 versions and J16-002 late pattern. Still with German subjects are for Hobby Boss is E35-257 for the French VBL armoured car.
E35-256, basic detail set for Dragon’s StuG.IIIE and for the same Finally a nice upgrade including photoetched wheel spokes for the
kit are very nicely done fenders. E35-259 is a detail set for Meng’s little Peugeot 750 motorcycle included in Meng’s FT-17 crew and
Kingtiger which includes excellent tow cables and also for Meng is orderly set, E35-255 is the product code. See E.T.’s full range at
E35-258 designed for the Gepard and provides the correct square  www.etmodeller.com

 Aires
Held in high regard by aircraft modellers, Czech aftermarket aces
50  Aires are producing some nice accessories f or armour builders
and we’ve a few of their latest figures to look at. 480161 is a
seated Modern British driver to steer your Airfix Warrior, 480183 is
a WWII period German tanker and 480190 a Modern Russian
commander gesturing with a raised arm. Sculpting and casting of 
all three is superb.
  This new book from AMMO of Mig Jiménez markings and also more specialist
Panzer DNA  gives a very good initial impression with nice information on troops’ ranks, zimmerit,
Daniele Guglielmi and Mario Pieri design and production. Generally speaking signalling and some handy tables of 
Published by AMMO the authors appear to have set out to translation of the German terms and
hardback format, 139 pages produce a concise guide to replace the abbreviations to English. One interesting
ISBN 97884416949137  vintage ‘Panzer Colours’ volumes (for a long table is a price list of equipment from a
 www.migjimenez.com time a valuable reference for German Luger to a Tiger! Colour illustrations and
armour modellers) and dispel the myths diagrams help to display the information
generated throughout the years by c ollating  visually and although packed with period
the most relevant contemporary  photographs, many in colour, most are the
information. The book is broken into very  more commonly seen ones and image
manageable and accessible sections quality varies. A great up-to-date overview
covering unit composition, colours, of the topic from pre-war until 1945 if you

MK35
 You can always rely on France’s MK35 for 
characteristic civilian figures and here’s a
great quartet of railway (or any labouring
scenario for that matter) each comes with
an optional head (with or without protective
goggles) and the sculpting and casting is
excellent. Each figure could obviously work 
individually or in groups and the new MiniArt
railway sets immediately spring to mind to
produce an instant vignette or diorama.
Now with over ninety civilian figures on offer,
MK35 are sure to have something to suit
 your latest ideas. www.mk35.com

 Vallejo
One of the pioneers of acrylic modelling
paints, Spain’s Vallejo, continue to expand
their offer of quality finishing products with
more additions to their AFV Colour Series.
Each set contains six 17ml ‘dropper’
bottles and the colours are ready to
airbrush with details and colour profiles
displayed on the packaging. 71.207 is a set
of German DAK colours, 71.209 are
modern U.S. desert colours (including
shading and highlight tones), 71.210 are
the much debated IDF colours from 1957
to date (including a primer and clear 
 varnish). Another much debated range of 
colours are the British ‘Caunter’ colours
provided in set 71.211 and set 71.212 has
five tones of the MERDC U.S. Army pattern
plus a clear varnish. Finally a generic set
71.213 covers wheel and track tones with a
step by step guide. Still on top of their  51
game, catch up with all the latest products
and tutorials at www.acrylicosvallejo.com

Puma Heavy APC
Centurion based APC in IDF service Part 3
Michael Mass and Adam O'Brien
Published by Desert Eagle
Softback format, 82 pages
ISBN 978965 7700 068
 
 www.deserteagle-publishing.com
 The IDF’s adaptation and customisation of  carpet system) and command vehicles with
it’s vehicles is best displayed surely by the
Pumas adapted as engineering vehicles
meaning some of the Shot-Cal tanks have
served for almost sixty years! Due to this
fact of leading a hard life and lots of intricate
equipment they certainly make fantastic
modelling subjects, hence this third volume
from the saviors of IDF modellers, Desert
Eagle. After the introduction to the Puma
family the book splits into bridge system
vehicles, mine clearance (roller, ‘Viper ’ and
an excellent mix of in-action images and
detailed close-ups providing very usable all-
round reference. A selection of CAD
drawings will aid modellers even further with
enough information to allow some scratch-
building of parts. Even if you’re not planning
on building one of these mean-machines in
the near future the colour images are
invaluable reference for weathering and
groundwork. All the quality we’ve come to
expect from Desert Eagle, superb reference.

Merkava Siman1- Part 1

Michael Mass and Adam O'Brien
Published by Desert Eagle
Softback format, 82 pages
ISBN 978965 7700 075
 www.deserteagle-publishing.com

 The IDF Armor series continues at a pace with number 20, great
news for modellers of IDF subjects. One of the World's most
famous armoured vehicles in perhaps it's purest form? Merkava
Mk1, with the usual Desert Eagle approach of quality large format
colour images and detailed, knowledgable research resulting in
the perfect easy access modelling reference. As this is Part One
52 the chapters are a little more in depth with more to come in the
next volume (such as the usual 'Man and Machine' feature) we
have an excellent insight here to the power pack, suspension, and
external details with the author's unrestricted access revealing
removed side skirts and 'live' maintenance. This release is just in
time for the new Takom Mk1 or if you still have the classic Tamiya
kit, another essential addition to the library of any IDF modeller but
beware; buy one Desert Eagle book and you'll want them all. Our 
thanks to www.aviationbookcentre.com for our sample copy.
  AF35-111

 AF35-
 A13

 AF35-A11

 AF35-
 A10
Rochm

We’ve received some more of Rochm’s beautiful presented
photoetched upgrade sets. The presentation and quality of the
products really is superb with full colour photographic instructions
that would shame most high-end kit manufacturers. All of these
samples are for the Kingtiger and Jagdtiger in 1:35; AF35A10 is a
full detail set for Dragon or Zvezda’s final production Henschel
turret, AF35A13 is another full detail version for Dragon’s Porsche
turret and AF35111 is a basic(!) set for Dragon’s Jagdtiger. A small
fret AF35 G05 provides delicate mesh screens for the engine deck 
for the Dragon kits. For the superb Meng Kingtiger we featured a
couple of issues back is full detail set AF35A11. These sets really 
do offer the ultimate in detail and will leave you wanting for 
nothing. Full details at: www.rochmmodel.com

Iwata
Some new products from the Iwata experts at The
 Airbrush Company to enhance your airbrushing
pleasure. Iwata Lube is special f ormulated to keep
moving parts of your ‘brush operating smoothly by   very convenient accessory is a desk-edge holder to
maintaining it’s viscosity and is free from silicone
(something you don’t really want anywhere you’re
painting). Something that I personally use and wouldn’t
be without is a spray-out pot, doubling as an airbrush
holder as well as a place to discharge any unwanted
paint or cleaning fluid these certainly are a clean way 
to work for your desk and the air around it. Another 
accommodate two airbrushes safely, the base clamp
looks like it would adapt to most work surfaces and the
53
multi-posable holders include a fitting to
accommodate the spray-out pot.www.airbrushes.com
 Dunkirk 1940, Through a
German Lens
 Alan Ranger 
Published by Mushroom Models
Softback format, 88 pages
ISBN 9788365281722
 www.mmpbooks.biz

Having enjoyed the experience of the recent ‘Dunkirk’ movie I did town and beaches littered with vehicles, equipment and ships.
feel one detail that was lacking was the sheer scale and  There’s some excellent photographs with plenty of images for 
destruction of the battle and evacuation. These previously  modellers of Allied subjects to take reference from but generally 
unpublished images presented in a photo-album style certainly  the historical content and detailed captions make this an
give proof of that with over 200 shots taken by German troops of  interesting read which is sure to prove popular with the recent
the advance to the town and the aftermath of the evacuation, the surge of interest. A very thought-provoking book.

 The old-fashioned colouring book has  Allied and German vehicles and aircraft
certainly made a come back of late, so if   which, we have to admit, look like they 
Operation Dynamo butterflies and country cottages don’t get could be a lot of fun. How long before
Colouring Book   you excited maybe this will have you someone does aftermarket cardboard
Published by MMP Books / Stratus digging out your coloured pencils? Again, tracks and laser-cut paper detail sets?!
softback format, 32 pages latching onto the Dunkirk movie is this Something a little lighthearted from
ISBN 9788365281609 collection of stylized line drawings to Mushroom Model Productions.
 www.mmpbooks.biz scribble away at with a good selection of 

Panther Ausf. A/D/G

Published by MMP Books / Stratus
softback format, 32 pages
ISBN 9788365281609
 www.mmpbooks.biz
Not so much a book as a set of plans in 1:72, 1:48,1:35 and 1:16
for Panther versions A, D and G with some generic balkencruz
masks included. The 1:16 plans are printed on quality A1 size fold-
out loose sheets but we feel they lack considerable detail at this
size (being enlargements of the smaller versions). One feature that
never disappoints with Kagero are the colour profiles which are
54 again, superb with a good choice of subject vehicles each with
some informative text.
  1 : 3 5 H o n g M o d e l ’ s k i t b y M a r k N e v i l l e

58
 ZSU-23-4M/MZ

 W 
ell the saying goes you wait for  1:35 and I’ve often fancied building a
a bus and two turn up at once,
in this case it was Shilkas. No
sooner had we received the fresh new
1:35 kit from newcomers Hong Model and
Meng told us they would shortly be
releasing a ZSU-23. The rule still stands in
the AFV Modeller studio that if you spend
too much time looking through the
contents of a kit you have to build it, as
 we’ve already featured Meng’s offering I
thought we’d see how Hong’s kit fairs-up.
 This subject has been long overlooked in
Shilka based on images from one of the
recent global conflicts with a heavily 
 weathered finish. I’ve shied away from the
 work involved bringing the vintage Dragon
kit up to scratch so this seemed an ideal
opportunity for an out of the box project
concentrating on weathering; shouldn’t
take long to build should it? The detail and
quality of moulding looked really good so I
cleared the bench and cracked open a
bottle of Mr Cement...

59
  The guns are an intricate and demanding
assembly but look good when finished, some may 

 The design of assembly is standard; lower hull  wish to add firing cables and coolant hose but are

‘tub’ and large single piece upper hull. Things barely visible.

do start to get a little more complicated with  The guns can elevate to the desired position freely 

the turret and cannons. I found filler required on the until you fix the top cover (not in place here).
leading edges of both sides
due to a difficult fit.

Rear engine deck covers

require plenty of sanding and
Photoetch is good and
dry fits to obtain a good fit
fits well, what we’ve
come to expect included
in modern kits.

 This edge
protruding
appears correct Separate relief 
 when compared detail parts
 with reference. needed blending
in with some Mr 
Surfacer here.

 A retaining chain
should be present at
either end of these
fold-down flaps.

 A large hole need drilling

for the radar unit. No
Idler wheels are a very 
mention of this on the
sloppy fit; some
instructions and would be
packing required and
easier done from inside
plenty of drying time for 
the turret roof before
the adhesive.
assembly.
Many turret fittings
require locating holes
that aren’t mentioned.

 Transpose the part

numbers for the
suspension arms to the
opposite side!

I’m no track-snob but the kit’s individual

links with two separate guide-horns per link? No
thanks. Masterclub produce some great resin and white
metal track sets. I struggled with the resin pins provided
so cut my own from 0.4mm brass rod. The tyres are a
snug fit between the guide horns, in hinesight a little
sanding of the tyre’s back edge would have helped.

60

 Tow fittings left an unusual
champhered gap around their base, I
used Magic Sculpt putty to create the
heavy weld seams seen in reference
images.
I won’t go into any details about the ZSU-
23, (Zenitnaya Samokhodnaya Ustanovka
 / self propelled anti-aircraf t system) I
don’t really know a great deal but I just
love the way they look and if you’ve seen
any movie footage of them you realise
 what a formidable weapon they can be
against air and ground targets with those
23mm auto cannons. This is all about the
kit, which, to be honest, is a real mixed
bag and a bit of a pig to build at times.
 As a general over view I’d say the
instructions are riddled with mistakes
(wrong numbered parts, location holes
required without mention) and location
points either too large or too small and
some sloppy fit in places...but...it’s not all
bad. The presentation of the kit is nice
and the moulding sharp and clean with a
high level of detail which is pretty  haven’t fitted but is supplied as a soft
 The driver’s h atch is a separate
assembly with internal detail
allowing the option of posing it
open, no internal driver’s position
parts are offered though.
 These parts are wooden in reality, a couple of swipes with a
razor saw blade added a convincing grain texture.
 The upper hull isn’t glued in place at this point; a little
sanding of the edges under the sponsons made for a better 
comprehensive and accurate when copper cable). The kit tracks; I just
compared to reference images (a good couldn’t face assembling or cleaning up
place to look is three tiny parts per link, the detail is good
http://www.primeportal.net and our very  and I have seen them assembled by 
own back issue 81 with a reworked braver souls than me to good effect. We
 version of Dragon’s old kit). Clear parts tracked(!) down a set of the Masterclub
are provided for the vision blocks and  white metal versions (resin are also
optic parts and a nice little photoetched available) and very nice they are too, with
fret ads some welcome finesse. Decals the realism you get from the ‘sit’ of metal
provide a good selection of versions from links hard to beat.
Eastern Block countries to more modern
Gulf War examples all presented nicely  We shouldn’t forget this is Hong’s first kit,
on a colour fold-out sheet. none of the challenges it throws at you
I’ve deliberately held off adding any of the take a great deal of correction, they’re
missing small details to show exactly  mainly frustrating and slow you down
 what comes from the kit, but they are such as wrongly numbered parts and
quite minor; some wiring of the radar unit poor location points but this kind of adds
and marker lights and a clamp on the to the satisfaction of seeing the finished
front glassis for the tow cable (which I model on the bench ready for paint.
61
 I primed the Shilka with Mr Finishing Surfacer black which not only serves as
an excellent base coat but a pre-shade. Over this I applied the base green
(AK’s Russian Green oversprayed with some transparent blue ink in places)
and sand camo allowing the black to show through in shaded areas.
 Although there are many ‘out of the bottle’ effects to create dust I’ve used
 The next step was a filter of heavily diluted (enamel thinner) yellow ochre
oil paint. Working on small sections or panels dampened with the mix this
helps harmonise the colours and while still damp is a good surface to
apply pin washes to. The washes are done with burnt umber and black oil
colours and start to give depth to the details. A benefit of using the water  colours, a damp cocktail stick easily achieves this touch of realism.
based gouache is that it isn’t affected by enamel thinners and can be
 worked over very quickly.
I worked round each section with the same techniques. I find breaking a
model into sections for the main weathering and shading processes
allows experimentation as you go, if something doesn’t go to plan it’s also
62 easier to rectify a single section than the whole model!
 water based gouache for many years with good results. The colours above
(cadmium red, cadmium yellow, lamp black and zinc white) are all I ever use
for various tones. You can return to your pallet and re-work the dry paint with
 water at a later date.
I first airbrush the gouache (mixed to a milky 
consistency) but to do this you need a very matt
base coat. This is then manipulated with a wet or 
moistened paintbrush (using water) and allowed to
 wash and accumulate as dust would and drying to a
 very matt and chalky finish. The lower hull received a
much heavier coat with a less diluted mixture. I was
 working closely to some colour reference images of 
ex-Syrian Army vehicles where the dust had a slight
pink cast to it which I exaggerated knowing this
 would tone down with the subsequent processes.
Here we can see the effects of the gouache, filters and washes taking
shape. Note the scratches and scuffs in the dirt through to the base
My reference showed some damp areas accumulated on the front glacis
 which were replicated with less diluted washes.
 The kit’s wheels are nicely detailed with various washes enhancing the
contrasts. The layers of effects can be seen on the side of the hull, note
the dirt splashing and splatters created by loading a brush with the
gouache and blowing a shot of air through it with the airbrush.
 Before placing the stowage I added some gloss varnish under where the oil barrel My final steps of wear and tear involve adding some bare metal
 would be placed to represent spilled diesel. effects to selected edges and areas of high wear. A Micro-Brush
and graphite powder was used to give a subtle sheen.

 A graphite stick (or a soft pencil works equally  Back to the graphite powder (Ushi Van Der  Lifecolor’s ‘European Asphalt’ I find is a good match
 well) picks out areas of highest wear su ch as Rosten’s ‘Iron’ was used in this case) to highlight for old rubber on the road wheels, these were easy to
hatches, crew access and handles. The the running contact surface of the tracks. paint by pulling the track to one side. I final dusting in
handles on the rear deck are a little chunky   The tracks were painted in place as the dust tones select areas with pigment powder (a mixture of Brick 
and may be better replaced with finer brass needed to match the rest of the lower hull plus I Dust and Light Earth) and we’re almost done with
rod. find I always hit snags fitting painted tracks to a  weathering and ready to detail paint the tools and add
finished model. the stowage.

Gun barrels also received the polishing powder 

treatment and I buffed some areas of the turret
 with my finger which gives a very slight sheen to
areas where the dust would be brushed away by 
the crew. Now all that’s left to do is place the
stowage, figure and sort the light lenses.

 After watching the Editor ’s progress on

his 1:16 Panzer crew I was inspired to
have a bash at my own figure. Starting
 with one of our own mannequins
(available from mengafvmodeller.com in
1:35 and 1:16) he’s not bad for a first
attempt and hopefully places the Shilka in
the Syrian conflict. I also now have the
upmost respect for figure sculptors!

63
 Lacking a dash of colour I decided to liven things up
 with the stowage. The resin oil barrel is from an old MiG
Productions set and the carpet from the excellent
Reality in Scale range which is printed on a flock 
material. The water bottles are from Meng and the
discarded shirt made from Magic Sculpt.

64
So now we have two modern Shilka kits to chose from
(we featured the Meng kit in issue 90). This kit from
Hong is for a modeller with some experience who can
handle mistakes on the instructions with some tricky fit
and position of parts. Ultimately I’m happy with the look 
of the finished model, the detail is good, in fact
excellent in places and the kit should rate as a very 
commendable first effort from Hong.

65