Knitted Garments and Articles

Submitted By: Submitted To:

Name: EMTIAJ AHMED 艾米德 Teacher:
ID: 1810901016
 “Market research and design of knitted products
in Shanghai Tianjin Industry Co. Ltd.”

Part 1

1.0 Executive Summary

Customer demand for lightweight, high-performance knitwear is increasing day by day for
raw materials such as cotton, linen, silk, polyester, and synthetic materials. Knitted materials
switched in favor of woven fabrics. Knitted fabric is used in a variety of products in the
home, including home cushions, curtains, carpets, dust bags, dust covers, and door
mattresses, among others. Because of its light resistance, synthetic material is becoming more
popular in a certain production. The market for high-performance microfiber knit fabric has
been seen to steadily increase in the apparel business over the last few years. In this research,
the marketing strategy and designing methods of knitted microfiber fabric by Shanghai
Tianjin Industry Co. Ltd. have been thoroughly observed and analyzed.

1.1 Company overview

Shanghai Tianjin Industry Co., Ltd. has been based in China's Shanghai, metropolitan area.
The company was founded in 2003, since then it has become a major manufacturer of special
knit garments. Their items are eco-friendly, fashionable, smart, practical, and innovative.
They produce different high-performance garments such as towels, summer garments, winter
jackets, cool scarves, cooler boxes, cool matters, cooler bottles, etc. from microfiber. Useful
functional property e.g. anti-bacterial, sweat-absorbent, hot relieved finishing are also given
in this factory.
2.0 Introduction
Market research is the act of acquiring information on customers and sellers in a specific
industry. Product design, on the other hand, is the method of designing, developing, and
launching a product. It all starts with an idea, and it never really concludes. The updated
version is the "last" stage of product development.

Market research assists in reaching useful conclusions, where an organization or business

knows about consumer purchase behavior or the likelihood of people paying a given price for
a product (Hult and Ferrell, 1997). There are two types of market research classified as
primary market research and secondary market research.

The steps of carrying market research depending on the methods and tools required are as
described below. At first, the problem to solve by research is needed to define. The following
step is choosing and collecting a sample for research. Data are collected about consumer
purchase behavior or any other. The further step is an analysis of the collected data and
calculating the result. Finally, the market research report is written and make the final
decision regarding the market. The best technique to do market research is to use the survey
questionnaire.

2.1 Research Methodology

Research is a step-by-step procedure that is carried out deliberately and logically to arrive at a
solution to a problem or an answer to a specific inquiry. The purpose of an experimental
research design is to allow researchers to estimate the effect of a treatment. Experimentation
can take place in the lab, in the classroom, or the field. The experimental research in this
study is conducted in the classroom, with students serving as the population. The study's
design is chosen by the researcher to assess the validity of the findings that may be taken
from it.

Qualitative research has been used to conduct the study. To carry out the proposed study data
has been collected from two sources; Primary and Secondary sources. Online questionnaires
were formulated for collecting data (Hult and Ferrell, 2015). The questionnaire is forwarded
to employees of Shanghai Tianjin Industry Co., Ltd. The market insight was gathered from a
questionnaire and basic product information was collected from previous reports. The major
tool for data analysis in Microsoft Excel. Graphs and charts are created to present the
research result.

3.0 Literature review

A knitting machine is a machine that produces knitted fabrics in a semi-automatic or fully
automated manner. Knitting machines come in a variety of shapes and sizes, starting from a
simple spool or board frameworks with no working components to highly complex
electronic-controlled processes. All, on the other hand, make a variety of knitted materials,
usually flat or tubular, with varying degrees of complexity. Hand control of the needles,
green push buttons, and knobs, mechanized punch cards, or electronics pattern reading
systems and computers are all options for selecting pattern stitches (Okamoto, 2017).
Knitting seamless garments can be done on a circular knitting machine or a flat (V-bed)
knitting machine. Seamless circular knitting machines, on the other hand, differ from
seamless flat knitting machines in that they exclusively make a single tubular form of
garment, such as those made on Santoni machines.

Seamless knitting equipment may make multiple tubes and then stitch them together on the
same machine. Complete clothes knit on circular machines may only require a minor amount
of cutting. Furthermore, seamless round machines require different diameters to achieve
significant variations in garment size, but seamless flat machines may accommodate various
garment sizes along with the same machine. As a result, circular machine seamless knitting is
not true seamless knitting. It's worth noting that the knit-on V-bed seamless machine
produces seamless clothes because no cutting or sewing is required.

On fine gauge, circular knitting machines, fine knitted materials known as 'second skin' are
produced. Fine circular knitted fabrics are made with 90 to 120 Ne cotton, polyester, and
viscose yarns. These materials have a similar appearance to woven fabrics, however, they are
more flexible. Circular knitting cylinders of the highest quality are the appropriate
complement to the company's premium needles and system elements, allowing customers to
design the perfect knitting system from a single source (Dutton, 2020). Circular knitting
machines can only attain their full potential for high-performance operation on the factory
floor if a consistently high standard of component quality and remarkable durability is
guaranteed. Assuring the pinpoint precision of individual pieces in existing machines
streamlines workflow while simultaneously increasing production capacity utilization.
3.1 Circular Knitting Machine
Table 1: Description of knitting parts with figure
Name of the Parts Function
Creel is a part of the knitting machine. Here yarn packages
Creel
are stored for yarn feeding in the machine.
MPF Wheel Its controls the speed of the MPF.
Pulley belt gives motion to the wheel.
It means Mamminger positive feed. It gives equal length
MPF
yarn distribution in the knitting cycle.
It controls the quality of the product. Altering the position
of the tension pulley changes the G.S.M of the fabric. If
VDQ Pulley the pulley moves towards the positive directive then
G.S.M decreases and in the reverse direction, G.S.M will
increase
Pulley belt It controls the rotation of the MPF wheel.
Yarn Guide Pipe It helps the yarn to feed in the feeder & also reduces ply.
Inlet and outlet stop It is an important part of the machine. It stops the machine
motion instantly when a yarn breaks.
A feeder is a device where yarn passes through the knitting
Feeder
section.
Brush It cleans the pulley belt.
It is the most important element of the machine. It helps to
Sinker loop formation, hold down the loop, knocking over the
loop.
Sinker ring It is a ring where all sinkers are placed together.
Cam is a device that converts rotary machine drive into a
suitable reciprocating action for the needles and other
elements. The cams are carefully profiled to produce
Cam
precisely-time movement and dwell periods and are two
types, engineering, and knitting cams.
Cam box Where cams are placed horizontally in the box.
The needle is a primary knitting element. It gives
Needle
movement according to the cam arrangement.
Cylinder Needle tricks are situated here.
Sinker ring It is a ring where all sinkers are placed together.
Pulley belt It controls the rotation of the MPF wheel.
Yarn Guide Pipe It helps the yarn to feed in the feeder & also reduces ply.
Inlet and outlet stop It is an important part of the machine. It stops the machine
motion instantly when a yarn breaks.
3.2 Yarn Path Diagram:

Fig 1: Yarn path diagram

3.3 Flow chart of a Circular Knitting Machine

Creel

Cone

Tube

Knot Catcher

Magnet Pressure

Sensor

Ceramic Eye Pot

Yarn Wheel

Sensor

Ceramic eye pot (Feeder Ring)

Feeder
3.4 Inspection for Different Fabrics
In this inspection, the fabric is passed through the lightbox and an operator counts the faults
by following the standard rules of the four-point system. Contamination, thick-thin, barre,
mark, drop stitch, fly holes, pinholes, oil stain, needle mark, slubs, sinker mark, and other
major or small flaws are documented in the inspection report to classify the fabric using the
four-point system.

3.5 Production Calculation

Production =

M /C RPM × No. Of Feeder × No .Of Needles × Stich Length (mm)× 60 ×24 × Efficiency
10 × 2.54 ×36 × 840× 2.2046 ×YarnCout
Kg/day

No. Of Needles = π × Machine Dia× Gauge (for a single jersey)

No. Of Needles = 2 × π × Machine Dia× Gauge (for a double jersey)

3.6 Faults in Knitted Grey Fabrics

Faults Causes
 When a needle breaks down then a needle mark comes along the fabrics.
Holes  If a needle or needle hook is slightly bent then a needle mark comes on the
fabrics.
 When oil lick through the needle trick then it passes on the fabrics and makes a
Oil lines line.

 If yarn contains foreign fiber then it remains in the fabric even after finishing,
Contamination
 If a lot, count mixing occurs.
 Yarn tension variation during production.
Star Mark  Buckling of the needle latch.
 Low G.S.M fabric production
3.6 Data collection
Type: Knit product

Product Name: Polyester Microfiber Knitted Towel

Material: 100% Polyester

Fig 1: Polyester Microfiber Towel

Color: Blue, Red, Yellow, etc.

Application

 Microfiber Cloth
 Sport Microfiber Towel
 Hand/Face Towel
 Coral Fleece Towels
 Beach Microfiber Towels
 Microfiber Kitchen/Tea Towels
 Microfiber Bath/Face Towels
 Microfiber Car Cleaning Towels
 Microfiber Glass Cleaning Towel

Price: 0.15$ to 2.00 $

3.7 Market Analysis

Product Line Name

Polyester microfiber sports towel or Superfine-fiber cleaning towel

Export Market Distribution

Table 2: Export market distribution

Market Total Revenue (%)

Domestic Market 10

North America 5

South America 1

Eastern Europe 10

Western Europe 09

Southern Europe 60

Northern Europe 1

Southeast Asia 3

Mid East 1

Eastern Asia 0

3.8 Discussions
Here, we can see that about 60% of products are sold to Southern Europe region. Other 29%
of products are sold to Domestic Market, Eastern Europe, and Western European countries.
 Total Revenue (%)

60

10 10 9
5 3
Domestic North 1
South Eastern 1
Western Southern Northern Southeast Mid1East 0
Eastern
Market America America Europe Europe Europe Europe Asia Asia

Figure 5: Total revenue percentage in different market

3.9 Competitive advantage

Factors that enable a corporation to produce goods or services better or more cheaply than its
competitors are referred to as competitive advantage. These elements enable the producing
unit to earn higher sales or higher margins than its competitors. The company has many kinds
of products, good quality, experienced foreign trade team and perfect after-sales service.
 Part 2

4.0 Introduction
Following analysis of the design and market, we discovered that we need to further develop
our product. The majority of people like designs created by Waive. We also discovered that a
tiny proportion of people dislikes collars that are different colors than the body. They want
the body to be the same hue as the rest of the body. As a result, we must base our product on
this analysis. We need to come up with a variety of appealing designs. On the other hand, we
must use the same colors for the collars (Card, 2018).

Selection of microfibers that could be used to make clean clothes, as well as their
specifications (material, count, structure, spun form, amount of fibers in the fibers, and so
on). Choosing the production technique that will be used to make the fresh cloths (woven
mechanism and weft-knitted mechanism). The ideas and application forms govern the
application of a specific mechanism. The necessary ratio of different microfiber types and the
various clean cloths mechanisms leads to specific design criteria (choosing the proper fibers,
yarn type, fabric construction, fabric structure, and so on) to meet the idea of the clean cloth.
Based on these procedures, a concept design was created to build up the best structure of
microfiber cleaning cloths with improved functionality and performance features employing
weft knitting techniques.

4.1 Design idea

Special knitted fabrics are common in the garment and textile manufacturing industries. A
fabric with remarkable qualities such as tear resistance, comfort, soft texture, captivating
pattern, and vibrant coloring effect. Specifically designed 92% polyester (microfiber) and 8%
spandex yarn warp knitted (Erdumlu and Saricam, 2016). This novel design can construct
high-performance lingerie, sportswear, clinging dresses, sweaters, and other winter apparel
because of elastic and thermal properties. This section designing knitted fabrics made by
looping two different yarns and using the advanced microfiber material is shown.
4.2 Product Development
Particulars Parameter

Garment Name Elastic polyester microfiber knitted towel

Fabric type Warp Knitted Fabric

Disperse solid dyed

Material 92% Polyester (microfiber) + 8% spandex

Color Red + White

Manufacture Process Flow Chart

Process flow chart of “Elastic polyester microfiber knitted towel”
Yarn
↓
Knitting
↓
Dyeing & Finishing
↓
Cutting
↓
Sewing
↓
Ironing
↓
Inspection
4.3 Knitting Section
4.3.1 Introduction
Warp knitting is a group of knitting techniques in which the yarn zigzags down the length of
the cloth, rather than following a continuous row or course. Weft knitting, on the other hand,
is knitting across the width of the fabric. Mosquito netting, tulle fabrics, sportswear, shoe
fabric, fabrics for printing and advertising, coating substrates, and laminating backdrops are
just a few of the industrial applications for warp-knitted fabrics (Zhang, Jiang, and Chen,
2012). Warp knitted fabrics are also being investigated for industrial applications (for
example, to support concrete) and for the manufacturing of bio textiles. Bio textiles are also
made using the warp knitting technique. A warp knitted polyester cardiac support device, for
example, has been developed to try to control the growth of sick hearts by being tightened
around them.

The following are some of the benefits of producing textiles using the warp knitting method.

 Higher rates of productivity than weaving

 Huge working widths and a range of fabric constructions
 Glass, aramid, and carbon fibers can be used because of the low-stress rate on the
yarn.
 Knitting three-dimensional objects with twin needle bar raschels
 Knitting Structure

Figure 4: Knitting structure

4.3.2 Operation Flow Chart in Knitting Section

Order sheet receive from merchandiser

Selection of production parameter

Arranging of yarn
Parameter
Testing of yarn
Parameter
Arranging of selected machine
Parameter
Starting of bulk production after approval
Parameter
Checking of grey fabric
Parameter
Delivery of gray fabrics according to batch wise
Parameter

4.4 Dyeing Section

Dyes are colored, unsaturated organic chemical compounds that are capable of coloring or
dyeing a substrate (a cloth).
The phrase "disperse dye" refers to organic coloring chemicals that are free of ionizing
groups, have a low water solubility, and can be used to color hydrophobic fibers. The dye's
name comes from its insoluble aqueous qualities and the fact that it must be applied from an
aqueous dispersion. They have the shortest molecular size of all the dyes.
Dyeing hydrophobic fibers like polyester using dispersion dyes can be thought of as a dye
transfer procedure from a liquid solvent (water) to a solid organic solvent (fiber).
To make an aqueous dispersion, disperse dyes are mixed with water and a surface-active
ingredient. Because disperse dyes are more tenacious to organic fibers, their insolubility
allows them to leave the dye liquor.
Heating the dye liquor causes the fiber to swell to some extent, making it easier for the dye to
permeate the polymer system of the fiber. As a result, the dye molecule settles into the
amorphous portions of the fiber. The dye molecules are maintained in place by hydrogen
bonds and Van Der Waals' force after they enter the fiber polymer system.
 Process Flow Chart of Sample Dyeing
Fabric loading
↓
Hot wash
↓
Dyeing with disperse (140oC & 50 mins)
↓
Reduction clearing(RC)
↓
Shade maching
↓
Finishing

4.5 Cutting & Sewing Section

4.5.1 Cutting Section

Fabric cutting is a preproduction process of separating a spread into garment parts that are of
precise size and shape of pattern pieces on a marker .cutting is the most sensitive operation in
the apparel industry.

A marker outline is used to cut the fabric. Fabric cutting is very important as if something is
cutting in the wrong way cannot be rectified.
 The sequence of Cutting Section
Marker collection from CAD section
↓
Fabric spreading through spreader machine
↓
Fabric cutting
↓
Checking cutting pieces size with the pattern
↓
Bundling different pieces according to order
↓
Delivery to the sewing section

4.5.2 Sewing Section

In this section, different parts are sewn. At first garments, parts are matched. Input comes
from the cutting section. After cutting and fusing garments parts are entered into the input
section in the form of a bundle. Then according to the cut numbering of the garment parts are
matched and then sewing is done.

Some machine pictures for T-shirt making

Operation Description Machine Type No. of Manpower

 Machine Required
Back & front part match Helper 02
Shoulder joining &fold 4OL 01 02
Rib neck make & fold VK 01 01
Neck join 4OL 01 01
Neck T/S FL-CL 01 01
Back tape piping mark Helper 01
Back tape cut &attach SN 01 03
Label position mark Helper 01
Back tape closes with the SN 02 03
main label
Neck bar tack Bar tack 01 10
Sleeve pair & match with the Helper 02
body
Sleeve join 4OL 02 02
Sticker remove &fold Helper 01
Care level make SN 01 01
Side seam 4OL 02 03
Thread cut &fold Helper 01
Care level attach SN 01 01
Sleeve hem FL 02 02
Check &thread cut Helper 02
Bottom hem FL-RC 01 01
Thread cut & fold Helper 03
Table 3: Operation breakdown of a basic T-shirt
4.6 Final product’s illustration

Front Part Back Part

5 Conclusion
Product design is the method by which designers combine customer needs with commercial
objectives to assist brands in creating consistently successful goods. Product designers strive
to better user experience in the solutions they create for their customers, as well as support
their brands by ensuring that their products are long-lasting and meet long-term business
goals.
Reference
Card, D.N. (2018). Learning from our mistakes with defect causal analysis. Computer
Standards & Interfaces, 21(2), p.159.

Dutton, W.A. (2020). THE DEVELOPMENT OF FINE GAUGE KNITTING

MACHINES. Journal of the Textile Institute Proceedings, 42(8), pp.P615–P632.

Erdumlu, N. and Saricam, C. (2016). Investigating the effect of some fabric parameters on
the thermal comfort properties of flat knitted acrylic fabrics for winter wear. Textile Research
Journal, 87(11), pp.1349–1359.

Halcombs, L. (2017). Using technology in research. Nurse Researcher, 25(1), pp.6–7.

Hult, G.Tomas.M. and Ferrell, O.C. (2015). A global learning organization structure and
market information processing. Journal of Business Research, 40(2), pp.155–166.

Okamoto, M. (2017). On the Knitting Elements and Knitting Motions of Circular Knitting
Machine. Journal of the Textile Machinery Society of Japan, 16(1), pp.18–25.

Zhang, L., Jiang, J.H. and Chen, N.L. (2012). Relationship between Knitting Parameters and
Mechanical Properties of Warp Knitting Mesh Fabric. Advanced Materials Research, 627,
pp.374–377.