Suzuki DT2-DT225 1988-03

CONTENTS
HOW TO USE THIS MANUAL 1·2

BOATING SAFETY 1·4
SAFETY IN SERVICE 1-12
TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT 2·2

TOOLS 2·5
FASTENERS, MEASUREMENTS AND CONVERSIONS 2·14
ENGINE MAINTENANCE 3·2

BOAT MAINTENANCE 3·8
TUNE-UP 3·12
WINTER STORAGE CHECKLIST 3.35
SPRING COMMISSIONING CHECKLIST 3.35
FUEL AND COMBUSTION 4·2

FUEL SYSTEM 4·3
TROUBLESHOOTING 4·7
CARBURETOR SERVICE 4·11
REED VALVE SERVICE 4·25
FUEL PUMP SERVICE 4·27
ELECTRONIC FUEL INJECTION 4-32
UNDERSTANDING AND TROUBLESHOOTING

ELECTRICAL SYSTEMS 5·2
BREAKER POINTS IGNITION (MAGNETO IGNITION) 5·7
CAPACITOR DISCHARGE IGNITION (CDI) SYSTEM 5·11
ELECTRONIC IGNITION 5·38
CHARGING CIRCUIT 5·39
m~~a~oo ~
IGNITION AND ELECTRICAL WIRING DIAGRAMS 5·52
OIL INJECTION SYSTEM 6·2

COOLING SYSTEM 6-11
OIL INJECTION WARNING SYSTEMS 6·14
OVERHEAT WARNING SYSTEM 6·17
© BENCHMANUK PDF MANUALS 2006

CONTENTS
ENGINE MECHANICAL 7-2

POWERHEAD RECONDITIONING 7-32
LOWER UNIT 8-2

LOWER UNIT OVERHAUL 8-6
JET DRIVE 8-51
MANUAL TILT 9-2

GAS ASSISTED TILT 9-2
POWER TILT 9-3
POWER TRIM/TILT 9-6
REMOTE CONTROL BOX 10-2

TILLER HANDLE 10-7
HAND REWIND STARTER 11-2

OVERHEAD TYPE STARTER 11-2
BENDIX TYPE STARTER 11·10
GLOSSARY 11-13 GLOSSARY
INDEX 11-17 MASTER INDEX
SUPPLEMENT: DTSY AND ADDITIONAL INFORMATION

ON MOST OTHER MODELS, INCLUDING UPDATED
12·2 SUPPLEMENT
CARBURETOR AND IGNITION SPECIFICATIONS

HOW TO USE THIS MANUAL 1-2
CAN YOU DO IT? 1-2
WHERE TO BEGIN 1-2
AVOIDING TROUBLE 1-2
MAINTENANCE OR REPAIR? 1-2
DIRECTIONS AND LOCATIONS 1-2
PROFESSIONAL HELP 1-2
PURCHASING PARTS 1-3
AVOIDING THE MOST COMMON
MISTAKES 1-3
BOATING SAFETY 1-4
REGULATIONS FOR YOUR BOAT 1-4
DOCUMENTING OF VESSELS 1-4
REGISTRATION OF BOATS 1-4
NUMBERING OF VESSELS 1-4
SALES AND TRANSFERS 1-4
HULL IDENTIFICATION
NUMBER 1-4
LENGTH OF BOATS 1-4
CAPACITY INFORMATION 1-4
CERTIFICATE OF COMPLIANCE 1-4
VENTILATION 1-5
VENTILATION SYSTEMS 1-5
REQUIRED SAFETY EQUIPMENT 1-5
TYPES OF FIRES 1-5
FIRE EXTINGUISHERS 1-5
WARNING SYSTEM 1-7
PERSONAL FLOTATION
DEVICES 1-7
SOUND PRODUCING DEVICES 1-9
VISUAL DISTRESS SIGNALS 1-9
EQUIPMENT NOT REQUIRED BUT
RECOMMENDED H 0
SECOND MEANS OF
PROPULSION HO
BAILING DEVICES 1-10
FIRST AID KIT 1-10
ANCHORS HO
VHF-FM RADIO H 1
TOOLS AND SPARE PARTS 1-11
COURTESY MARINE
EXAMINATIONS 1-11
SAFETY IN SERVICE 1-12
DO'S H2
DON'TS 1-12

1-2 GENERAL INFORMATION AND BOATING SAFETY
HOW TO USE THIS MANUAL
This manual is designed to be a handy reference guide to maintaining and much the parts cost you, the date, and the amount of hours on the engine at the
repairing your Suzuki 2-stroke outboard. We strongly believe that regardless of time. Keep all receipts for parts purchased, so that they may be referred to in case
how many or how few years experience you may have, there is something new of related problems or to determine operating expenses. As a do-it-yourselfer, these
waiting here for you. receipts are the only proof you have that the required maintenance was performed.
This manual covers the topics that a factory service manual (designed for In the event of awarranty problem, these receipts will be invaluable.
factory trained mechanics) and a manufacturer owner's manual (designed more It's necessary to mention the difference between maintenance and repair.
by lawyers these days) covers. It will take you through the basics of maintaining Maintenance includes routine inspections, adjustments, and replacement of
and repairing your outboard, step-by-step, to help you understand what the fac- parts that show signs of normal wear. Maintenance compensates for wear or
tory trained mechanics already know by heart. By using the information in this deterioration. Repair implies that something has broken or is not working. A
manual, any boat owner should be able to make better informed decisions about need for repair is often caused by lack of maintenance.
what they need to do to maintain and enjoy their outboard. For example: draining and refilling the engine oil is maintenance recommended
Even if you never plan on touching a wrench (and if so, we hope that you will by all manufacturers at specific intervals. Failure to do this can allow internal cor-
change your mind), this manual will still help you understand what a mechanic rosion or damage and impair the operation of the engine, requiring expensive
needs to do in order to maintain your engine. repairs. While no maintenance program can prevent items from breaking or wear-
ing out, a general rule can be stated: MAINTENANCE IS CHEAPER THAN REPAIR.
Can You Do It?
Directions and Locations
If you are not the type who is prone to taking a wrench to something, NEVER
FEAR. The procedures in this manual cover topics at a level virtually anyone will • See Figure 1
be able to handle. And just the fact that you purchased this manual shows your
interest in better understanding your outboard. Two basic rules should be mentioned here. First, whenever the Port side of
You may find that maintaining your outboard yourself is preferable in most the engine (or boat) is referred to, it is meant to specify the left side of the
cases. From a monetary standpoint, it could also be beneficial. The money spent engine when you are sitting at the helm. Conversely, the Starboard means your
on hauling your boat to a marina and paying a tech to service the engine could right side. The Bow is the front of the boat and the Stern is the rear.
buy you fuel for awhole weekend's boating. If you are unsure of your own Most screws and bolts are removed by turning counterclockwise, and tightened
mechanical abilities, at the very least you should fully understand what a marine by turning clockwise. An easy way to remember this is: righty-tighty; lefty-loosey.
mechanic does to your boat. You may decide that anything other than maintenance Corny, but effective. And if you are really dense (and we have all been so at one
and adjustments should be performed by a mechanic (and that's your call), but time or another), buy a ratchet that is marked ON and OFF, or mark your own.
know that every time you board your boat, you are placing faith in the mechanic's
work and trusting him or her with your well-being, and maybe your life.
It should also be noted that in most areas a factory trained mechanic will
command a hefty hourly rate for off site service. This hourly rate is charged
from the time they leave their shop to the time they return home. The cost sav-
ings in doing the job yourself should be readily apparent at this point.
Where to Begin
Before spending any money on parts, and before removing any nuts or bolts,
c==:m~~
read through the entire procedure or topic. This will give you the overall view of
what tools and supplies will be required to perform the procedure or what ques-
tions need to be answered before purchasing parts. So read ahead and plan
ahead. Each operation should be approached logically and all procedures thor-
STARBOARD
oughly understood before attempting any work. (RIGHT SIDE)
Avoiding Trouble
Some procedures in this manual may require you to "label and disconnect
... " a group of lines, hoses or wires. Don't be lulled into thinking you can
04701G10
remember where everything goes - you won't. If you reconnect or install a part
incorrectly, things may operate poorly, if at all. If you hook up electrical wiring Fig. 1 Common terminology used for reference designation on boats
incorrectly, you may instantly learn a very, very expensive lesson. of all size. These terms are used though out the manual
A piece of masking tape, for example, placed on a hose and another on its
fitting will allow you to assign your own label such as the letter "A", or a short
name. As long as you remember your own code, the lines can be reconnected Professional Help
by matching letters or names. Do remember that tape will dissolve when satu-
rated in fluids. If a component is to be washed or cleaned, use another method Occasionally, there are some things when working on an outboard that are
of identification. A permanent felt-tipped marker can be very handy for marking beyond the capabilities or tools of the average Do-lt-Yourselfer (DIYer). This
metal parts; but remember that fluids will remove permanent marker. shouldn't include most of the topics of this manual, but you will have to be the
SAFETY is the most important thing to remember when performing mainte- judge. Some engines require special tools or a selection of special parts, even
nance or repairs. Be sure to read the information on safety in this manual. for basic maintenance.
Talk to other boaters who use the same model of engine and speak with a
trusted marina to find if there is a particular system or component on your
Maintenance or Repair? engine that is difficult to maintain. For example, although the technique of valve
adjustment on some engines may be easily understood and even performed by
Proper maintenance is the key to long and trouble-free engine life, and the work
a DIYer, it might require a handy assortment of shims in various sizes and a few
can yield its own rewards. A properly maintained engine performs better than one
hours of disassembly to get to that point. Not having the assortment of shims
that is neglected. As aconscientious boat owner, set aside a Saturday morning, at
handy might mean multiple trips back and forth to the parts store, and this
least once a month, to perform athorough check of items which could cause prob-
might not be worth your time.
lems. Keep your own personal log to jot down which services you performed, how

GENERAL INFORMATION AND BOATING SAFETY 1-3
You will have to decide for yourself where basic maintenance ends and where
professional service should begin. Take your time and do your research first
(starting with the information in this manual) and then make your own decision.
If you really don't feel comfortable with attempting a procedure, DON'T DO IT If
you've gotten into something that may be over your head, don't panic. Tuck your
tail between your legs and call a marine mechanic. Marinas and independent
shops will be able to finish a job for you. Your ego may be damaged, but your
boat will be properly restored to its full running order. So, as long as you
approach jobs slowly and carefully, you really have nothing to lose and every-
thing to gain by doing it yourself.
Purchasing Parts
• See Figures 2 and 3
When purchasing parts there are two things to consider. The first is quality 04971P12
and the second is to be sure to get the correct part for your engine. To get qual- Fig. 3 Parts catalogs, giving application and part number informa-
ity parts, always deal directly with a reputable retailer. To get the proper parts
tion, are provided by manufacturers for most replacement parts
always refer to the information tag on your engine prior to calling the parts
counter. An incorrect part c.an adversely affect your engine performance and fuel
economy, and will cost you more money and aggravation in the end. are almost always open weeknights, Saturdays, and Sundays, when the jobbers
Just remember, a tow back to shore will cost plenty. That charge is per hour are usually closed.
from the time the towboat leaves their home port, to the time they return to their The lowest prices for parts are most often found in discount stores or the
home port. Get the picture ... $$$? auto department of mass merchandisers. Parts sold here are name and private
So who should you call for parts? Well, there are many sources for the parts you brand parts bought in huge quantities, so they can offer a competitive price. Pri-
will need. Where you shop for parts will be determined by what kind of parts you vate brand parts are made by major manufacturers and sold to large chains
need, how much you want to pay, and the types of stores in your neighborhood. under a store label.
Your marina can supply you with many of the common parts you require.
Using a marina for as your parts supplier may be handy because of location
(just walk right down the dock) or because the marina specializes in your partic-
Avoiding the Most Common Mistakes
ular brand of engine. In addition, it is always a good idea to get to know the There are 3 common mistakes in mechanical work:
marina staff (especially the marine mechanic). 1. Incorrect order of assembly, disassembly or adjustment. When taking
The marine parts jobber, who is usually listed in the yellow pages or whose something apart or putting it together, performing steps in the wrong order usu-
name can be obtained from the marina, is another excellent source for parts. In ally just costs you extra time; however, it CAN break something. Read the entire
addition to supplying local marinas, they also do a sizeable business in over- procedure before beginning disassembly. Perform everything in the order in
the-counter parts sales for the do-it-yourselfer. which the instructions say you should, even if you can't immediately see area-
Almost every community has one or more convenient marine chain stores. son for it. When you're taking apart something that is very intricate, you might
These stores often offer the best retail prices and the convenience of one-stop want to draw a picture of how it looks when assembled at one point in order to
shopping for all your needs. Since they cater to the do-it-yourselfer, these stores make sure you get everything back in its proper position. When making adjust-
ments, perform them in the proper order; often, one adjustment affects another,
and you cannot expect satisfactory results unless each adjustment is made only
when it cannot be changed by another.
2. Overtorquing (or undertorquing). While it is more common for over-
torquing to cause damage, undertorquing may allow a fastener to vibrate loose
causing serious damage. Especially when dealing with aluminum parts, pay
attention to torque specifications and utilize a torque wrench in assembly. If a
torque figure is not available, remember that if you are using the right tool to
perform the job, you will probably not have to strain yourself to get a fastener
tight enough. The pitch of most threads is so slight that the tension you put on
the wrench will be multiplied many times in actual force on what you are tight-
ening.
3. Crossthreading. This occurs when a part such as a bolt is screwed into a
nut or casting at the wrong angle and forced. Crossthreading is more likely to
occur if access is difficult. It helps to clean and lubricate fasteners, then to start
threading with the part to be installed positioned straight in. Always start a fas-
tener, etc. with your fingers. If you encounter resistance, unscrew the part and
start over again at a different angle until it can be inserted and turned several
times without much effort. Keep in mind that some parts may have tapered
threads, so that gentle turning will automatically bring the part you're threading
05001P01
to the proper angle, but only if you don't force it or resist a change in angle.
Don't put a wrench on the part until it has been tightened a couple of turns by
Fig. 2 By far the most important asset in purchasing parts is a hand. If you suddenly encounter resistance, and the part has not seated fully,
knowledgeable and enthusiastic parts person don't force it. Pull it back out to make sure it's clean and threading properly.

BOATING SAFETY
In 1971 Congress ordered the U.S. Coast Guard to improve recreational SALES AND TRANSFERS
boating safety. In response, the Coast Guard drew up a set of regulations.
Beside these federal regulations, there are state and local laws you must fol- Your registration number is not transferable to another boat. The number
low. These sometimes exceed the Coast Guard requirements. This section dis- stays with the boat unless its state of principal use is changed.
cusses only the federal laws. State and local laws are available from your local
Coast Guard. As with other laws, "Ignorance of the boating laws is no excuse." HULL IDENTIFICATION NUMBER
The rules fall into two groups: regulations for your boat and required safety
equipment on your boat.
A Hull Identification Number (HIN) is like the Vehicle Identification Number
(VIN) on your car. Boats built between November 1, 1972 and July 31, 1984
Regulations For Your Boat have old format HINs. Since August 1, 1984 a new format has been used.
Most boats on waters within Federal jurisdiction must be registered or docu- Your boat's HIN must appear in two places. If it has atransom, the primary num-
mented. These waters are those that provide a means of transportation between ber is on its starboard side within two inches of its top. If it does not have atran-
two or more states or to the sea. They also include the territorial waters of the som or if it was not practical to use the transom, the number is on the starboard
United States. side. In this case, it must be within one foot of the stern and within two inches of
the top of the hull side. On pontoon boats, it is on the aft crossbeam within one foot
DOCUMENTING OF VESSELS of the starboard hull attachment. Your boat also has a duplicate number in an unex-
posed location. This is on the boat's interior or under afitting or item of hardware.
A vessel of five or more net tons may be documented as a yacht. In this LENGTH OF BOATS
process, papers are issued by the U.S. Coast Guard as they are for large ships.
Documentation is a form of national registration. The boat must be used solely
for pleasure. Its owner must be a U.S. citizen, a partnership of U.S. citizens, or a For some purposes, boats are classed by length. Required equipment, for
corporation controlled by U.S. citizens. The captain and other officers must also example, differs with boat size. Manufacturers may measure a boat's length in
be U.S. citizens. The crew need not be. several ways. Officially, though, your boat is measured along a straight line from
If you document your yacht, you have the legal authority to fly the yacht its bow to its stern. This line is parallel to its keel.
ensign. You also may record bills of sale, mortgages, and other papers of title The length does not include bowsprits, boomkins, or pulpits. Nor does it
with federal authorities. Doing so gives legal notice that such instruments exist. include rudders, brackets, outboard motors, outdrives, diving platforms, or
Documentation also permits preferred status for mortgages. This gives you other attachments.
additional security and aids financing and transfer of title. You must carry the
original documentation papers aboard your vessel. Copies will not suffice. CAPACITY INFORMATION
REGISTRATION OF BOATS t See Figure 4

Manufacturers must put capacity plates on most recreational boats less than
If your boat is not documented, registration in the state of its principal use is 20 feet long. Sailboats, canoes, kayaks, and inflatable boats are usually exempt.
probably required. If you use it mainly on an ocean, a gulf, or other similar Outboard boats must display the maximum permitted horsepower of their
water, register it in the state where you moor it. engines. The plates must also show the allowable maximum weights of the peo-
If you use your boat solely for racing, it may be exempt from the requirement ple on board. And they must show the allowable maximum combined weights of
in your state. States may also exclude dinghies. Some require registration of people, engines, and gear. Inboards and stern drives need not show the weight
documented vessels and non-power driven boats. of their engines on their capacity plates. The capacity plate must appear where it
All states, except Alaska, register boats. In Alaska, the U.S. Coast Guard issues is clearly visible to the operator when underway. This information serves to
the registration numbers. If you move your vessel to a new state of principal use, a remind you of the capacity of your boat under normal circumstances. You
valid registration certificate is good for 60 days. You must have the registration should ask yourself, "Is my boat loaded above its recommended capacity" and,
certificate (certificate of number) aboard your vessel when it is in use. A copy will "Is my boat overloaded for the present sea and wind conditions?" If you are
not suffice. You may be cited if you do not have the original on board. stopped by a legal authority, you may be cited if you are overloaded.
NUMBERING OF VESSELS
A registration number is on your registration certificate. You must paint or

permanently attach this number to both sides of the forward half of your boat.
Do not display any other number there.
The registration number must be clearly visible. It must not be placed on the
obscured underside of a flared bow. If you can't place the number on the bow,
place it on the forward half of the hull. If that doesn't work, put it on the super-
structure. Put the number for an inflatable boat on a bracket or fixture. Then,
firmly attach it to the forward half of the boat. The letters and numbers must be
plain block characters and must read from left to right. Use a space or a hyphen BAHAMA lNDUSTRiES, INC.
to separate the prefix and suffix letters from the numerals. The color of the char-
acters must contrast with that of the background, and they must be at least three
. -~~·.t'~l,Nll; Sl: AlllAHEIM, .CALIF, 92807 •
inches high. 04701P20
In some states your registration is good for only one year. In others, it is Fig. 4 A U.S. Coast Guard certification plate indicates the amount of
good for as long as three years. Renew your registration before it expires. At occupants and gear appropriate for safe operation of the vessel
that time you will receive a new decal or decals. Place them as required by state
law. You should remove old decals before putting on the new ones. Some states
require that you show only the current decal or decals. If your vessel is moored,
CERTIFICATE OF COMPLIANCE
it must have a current decal even if it is not in use.
If your vessel is lost, destroyed, abandoned, stolen, or transferred, you must
inform the issuing authority. If you lose your certificate of number or your Manufacturers are required to put compliance plates on motorboats greater
address changes, notify the issuing authority as soon as possible. than 20 feet in length. The plates must say, "This boat," or "This equipment

complies with the U. S. Coast Guard Safety Standards in effect on the date of ters face forward and exhaust openings aft. This aids the flow of air when the boat is
certification." Letters and numbers can be no less than one-eighth of an inch moving or at anchor since most boats face into the wind when anchored.
high. At the manufacturer's option, the capacity and compliance plates may be
combined. Power Ventilation System Requirements
VENTILATION • See Figure 5

Powered ventilation systems must meet the standards of a natural system.
A cup of gasoline spilled in the bilge has the potential explosive power of 15 They must also have one or more exhaust blowers. The blower duct can serve
sticks of dynamite. This statement, commonly quoted over 20 years ago, may be as the exhaust duct for natural ventilation if fan blades do not obstruct the air
an exaggeration, however, it illustrates a fact. Gasoline fumes in the bilge of a flow when not powered. Openings in engine compartment, for carburetion are in
boat are highly explosive and a serious danger. They are heavier than air and addition to ventilation system requirements.
will stay in the bilge until they are vented out.
Because of this danger, Coast Guard regulations require ventilation on many
power boats. There are several ways to supply fresh air to engine and gasoline
tank compartments and to remove dangerous vapors. Whatever the choice, it
must meet Coast Guard standards.
,..The following is not intended to be a complete discussion of the regu-
lations. It is limited to the majority of recreational vessels. Contact your
local Coast Guard office for further information.
General Precautions
Ventilation systems will not remove raw gasoline that leaks from tanks or fuel
lines. If you smell gasoline fumes, you need immediate repairs. The best device
for sensing gasoline fumes is your nose. Use it! If you smell gasoline in an
engine compartment or elsewhere, don't start your engine. The smaller the com-
partment, the less gasoline it takes to make an explosive mixture.
Ventilation for Open Boats

In open boats, gasoline vapors are dispersed by the air that moves through
them. So they are exempt from ventilation requirements. 04891P17
To be "open," a boat must meet certain conditions. Engine and fuel tank
compartments and long narrow compartments that join them must be open to Fig. 5 Typical blower and duct system to vent fumes from the engine
the atmosphere." This means they must have at least 15 square inches of open compartment
area for each cubic foot of net compartment volume. The open area must be in
direct contact with the atmosphere. There must also be no long, unventilated
spaces open to engine and fuel tank compartments into which flames could
extend. Required Safety Equipment
Ventilation for All Other Boats Coast Guard regulations require that your boat have certain equipment
aboard. These requirements are minimums. Exceed them whenever you can.
Powered and natural ventilation are required in an enclosed compartment
with a permanently installed gasoline engine that has a cranking motor. A com- TYPES OF FIRES
partment is exempt if its engine is open to the atmosphere. Diesel powered
boats are also exempt. There are four common classes of fires:
• Class A-fires are in ordinary combustible materials such as paper or wood.
VENTILATION SYSTEMS • Class B-fires involve gasoline, oil and grease.
• Class C-fires are electrical.
There are two types of ventilation systems. One is "natural ventilation." In it, • Class D-fires involve ferrous metals
air circulates through closed spaces due to the boat's motion. The other type is One of the greatest risks to boaters is fire. This is why it is so important to
"powered ventilation." In it, air is circulated by a motor driven fan or fans. carry the correct number and type of extinguishers onboard.
The best fire extinguisher for most boats is a Class B extinguisher. Never
Natural Ventilation System Requirements use water on Class B or Class Cfires, as water spreads these types of fires.
You should never use water on a Class Cfire as it may cause you to be elec-
A natural ventilation system has an air supply from outside the boat. The air trocuted.
supply may also be from a ventilated compartment or a compartment open to
the atmosphere. Intake openings are required. In addition, intake ducts may be FIRE EXTINGUISHERS
required to direct the air to appropriate compartments.
The system must also have an exhaust duct that starts in the lower third of the • See Figure 6
compartment. The exhaust opening must be into another ventilated compartment
or into the atmosphere. Each supply opening and supply duct, if there is one, If your boat meets one or more of the following conditions, you must have at
must be above the usual level of water in the bilge. Exhaust openings and ducts least one fire extinguisher aboard. The conditions are:
must also be above the bilge water. Openings and ducts must be at least three • Inboard or stern drive engines
square inches in area or two inches in diameter. Openings should be placed so • Closed compartments under seats where portable fuel tanks can be stored
exhaust gasses do not enter the fresh air intake. Exhaust fumes must not enter • Double bottoms not sealed together or not completely filled with flotation
cabins or other enclosed, non-ventilated spaces. The carbon monoxide gas in materials
them is deadly. • Closed living spaces
Intake and exhaust openings must be covered by cowls or similar devices. These • Closed stowage compartments in which combustible or flammable materi-
registers keep out rain water and water from breaking seas. Most often, intake reg is- als are stored

Fire Extinguisher Approval
Fire extinguishers must be Coast Guard approved. Look for the approval num-
ber on the nameplate. Approved extinguishers have the following on their labels:
"Marine Type USCG Approved, Size ... , Type ... , 162.208/," etc. In addi-
tion, to be acceptable by the Coast Guard, an extinguisher must be in serviceable
condition and mounted in its bracket. An extinguisher not properly mounted in
its bracket will not be considered serviceable during a Coast Guard inspection.
Care and Treatment

Make certain your extinguishers are in their stowage brackets and are not
damaged. Replace cracked or broken hoses. Nozzles should be free of obstruc-
tions. Sometimes, wasps and other insects nest inside nozzles and make them
inoperable. Check your extinguishers frequently. If they have pressure gauges,
is the pressure within acceptable limits? Do the locking pins and sealing wires
show they have not been used since recharging?
Don't try an extinguisher to test it. Its valves will not reseat properly and the
remaining gas will leak out. When this happens, the extinguisher is useless.
Weigh and tag carbon dioxide and Halon extinguishers twice a year. If their
weight loss exceeds 10 percent of the weight of the charge, recharge them.
Check to see that they have not been used. They should have been inspected by
a qualified person within the past six months, and they should have tags show-
ing all inspection and service dates. The problem is that they can be partially
discharged while appearing to be fully charged.
Some Halon extinguishers have pressure gauges the same as dry chemical
extinguishers. Don't rely too heavily on the gauge. The extinguisher can be par-
tially discharged and still show a good gauge reading. Weighing a Halon extin-
guisher is the only accurate way to assess its contents.
If your dry chemical extinguisher has a pressure indicator, check it fre-
quently. Check the nozzle to see if there is powder in it. If there is, recharge it.
04701P29
Occasionally invert your dry chemical extinguisher and hit the base with the
palm of your hand. The chemical in these extinguishers packs and cakes due
Fig. 6 An approved fire extinguisher should be mounted close to the to the boat's vibration and pounding. There is a difference of opinion about
operator for emergency use whether hitting the base helps, but it can't hurt. It is known that caking of the
chemical powder is a major cause of failure of dry chemical extinguishers.
• Permanently installed fuel tanks Carry spares in excess of the minimum requirement. If you have guests
• Boat is 26 feet or more in length. aboard, make certain they know where the extinguishers are and how to use
them.
Contents of Extinguishers
Using a Fire Extinguisher
Fire extinguishers use a variety of materials. Those used on boats usually
contain dry chemicals, Halon, or Carbon Dioxide (C03). Dry chemical extin- A fire extinguisher usually has a device to keep it from being discharged
guishers contain chemical powders such as Sodium Bicarbonate-baking accidentally. This is a metal or plastic pin or loop. If you need to use your extin-
soda. guisher, take it from its bracket. Remove the pin or the loop and point the nozzle
Carbon dioxide is a colorless and odorless gas when released from an extin- at the base of the flames. Now, squeeze the handle, and discharge the extin-
guisher. It is not poisonous but caution must be used in entering compartments guisher's contents while sweeping from side to side. Recharge a used extin-
filled with it. It will not support life and keeps oxygen from reaching your lungs. guisher as soon as possible.
A fire-killing concentration of Carbon Dioxide is lethal. If you are in a compart- If you are using a Halon or carbon dioxide extinguisher, keep your hands
ment with a high concentration of C03, you will have no difficulty breathing. But away from the discharge. The rapidly expanding gas will freeze them. If your fire
the air does not contain enough oxygen to support life. Unconsciousness or extinguisher has a horn, hold it by its handle.
death can resu It.
Legal Requirements for Extinguishers
HALON EXTINGUISHERS
You must carry fire extinguishers as defined by Coast Guard regulations.
Some fire extinguishers and 'built-in' or 'fixed' automatic fire extinguish- They must be firmly mounted in their brackets and immediately accessible.
ing systems contain a gas called Halon. Like carbon dioxide it is colorless A motorboat less than 26 feet long must have at least one approved hand-
and odorless and will not support life. Some Halons may be toxic if in- portable, Type B-1 extinguisher. If the boat has an approved fixed fire extin-
haled. guishing system, you are not required to have the Type B-1 extinguisher. Also, if
To be accepted to the Coast Guard, a fixed Halon system must have an indi- your boat is less than 26 feet long, is propelled by an outboard motor, or
cator light at the vessel's helm. A green light shows the system is ready. Red motors, and does not have any of the first six conditions described at the begin-
means it is being discharged or has been discharged. Warning horns are avail- ning of this section, it is not required to have an extinguisher. Even so, it's a
able to let you know the system has been activated. If your fixed Halon system good idea to have one, especially if a nearby boat catches fire, or if a fire occurs
discharges, ventilate the space thoroughly before you enter it. There are no at a fuel dock.
residues from Halon but it will not support life. A motorboat 26 feet to under 40 feet long, must have at least two Type B-1
Although Halon has excellent fire fighting properties, it is thought to deplete approved hand-portable extinguishers. It can, instead, have at least one Coast
the earth's ozone layer and has not been manufactured since January 1, 1994. Guard approved Type B-2. If you have an approved fire extinguishing system,
Halon extinguishers can be refilled from existing stocks of the gas until they are only one Type B-1 is required.
used up, but high federal excise taxes are being charged for the service. If you A motorboat 40 to 65 feet long must have at least three Type B-1 approved
discontinue using your Halon extinguisher, take it to a recovery station rather portable extinguishers . It may have, instead, at least one Type B-1 plus a Type
than releasing the gas into the atmosphere. Compounds such as FE 241, B-2. If there is an approved fixed fire extinguishing system, two Type B-1 or one
designed to replace Halon, are now available. Type B-2 is required.

WARNING SYSTEM Type Ill PFDs
Type Ill life jackets or marine buoyant devices are also known as flotation
Various devices are available to alert you to danger. These include fire, aids. Like Type lls, they are designed for calm inland or close offshore water
smoke, gasoline fumes, and carbon monoxide detectors. If your boat has a gal- where there is a good chance of fast rescue. Their minimum buoyancy is 15.5
ley, it should have a smoke detector. Where possible, use wired detectors. pounds. They will not turn their wearers face up.
Household batteries often corrode rapidly on a boat. Type Ill devices are usually worn where freedom of movement is necessary.
You can't see, smell, nor taste carbon monoxide gas, but it is lethal. As little Thus, they are used for water skiing, small boat sailing, and fishing among
as one part in 10,000 parts of air can bring on a headache. The symptoms of other activities. They are available as vests and flotation coats. Flotation coats
carbon monoxide poisoning-headaches, dizziness, and nausea-are like sea are useful in cold weather. Type Ills come in many sizes from small child
sickness. By the time you realize what is happening to you, it may be too late to through large adult.
take action. If you have enclosed living spaces on your boat, protect yourself Life jackets come in a variety of colors and patterns-red, blue, green,
with a detector. There are many ways in which carbon monoxide can enter your camouflage, and cartoon characters. From a safety standpoint, the best color
boat. is bright orange. It is easier to see in the water, especially if the water is
rough.
PERSONAL FLOTATION DEVICES
Type IV PFDs
Personal Flotation Devices (PFDs) are commonly called life preservers or life
jackets. You can get them in a variety of types and sizes. They vary with their
intended uses. To be acceptable, they must be Coast Guard approved. Type IV ring life buoys, buoyant cushions and horseshoe buoys are Coast
Guard approved devices called throwables. They are made to be thrown to peo-
Type I PFDs ple in the water, and should not be worn. Type IV cushions are often used as
A Type I life jacket is also called an offshore life jacket. Type I life jackets will
turn most unconscious people from facedown to a vertical or slightly backward
position. The adult size gives a minimum of 22 pounds of buoyancy. The child
size has at least 11 pounds. Type I jackets provide more protection to their
wearers than any other type of life jacket. Type I life jackets are bulkier and less
comfortable than other types. Furthermore, there are only two sizes, one for
children and one for adults.
Type I life jackets will keep their wearers afloat for extended periods in rough
water. They are recommended for offshore cruising where a delayed rescue is
probable.
Type II PFDs
• See Figure 7
A Type II life jacket is also called a near-shore buoyant vest. It is an
approved, wearable device. Type II life jackets will turn some unconscious peo-
ple from facedown to vertical or slightly backward positions. The adult size
gives at least 15.5 pounds of buoyancy. The medium child size has a minimum
of 11 pounds. And the small child and infant sizes give seven pounds. A Type II
04891P09
life jacket is more comfortable than a Type I but it does not have as much buoy-
ancy. It is not recommended for long hours in rough water. Because of this, Fig. 8 Type IV buoyant cushions are made to be thrown to people in
Type lls are recommended for inshore and inland cruising on calm water. Use the water. If you can squeeze air out of the cushion, it is faulty and
them where there is a good chance of fast rescue. should be replaced
04891P07 04891P10
Fig. 7 Type II approved flotation devices are recommended for Fig. 9 Type IV throwables, such as this ring life buoy, are not
inshore and inland cruising on calm water. Use them where there is designed as personal flotation devices for unconscious people, non-
a good chance of fast rescue swimmers, or children

seat cushions. Cushions are hard to hold onto in the water. Thus, they do not length and is not a canoe or a kayak, you must also have at least one Type IV on
afford as much protection as wearable life jackets. board. These requirements apply to all recreational vessels that are propelled or
The straps on buoyant cushions are for you to hold onto either in the water controlled by machinery, sails, oars, paddles, poles, or another vessel. Sail-
or when throwing them. A cushion should never be worn on your back. It will boards are not required to carry life jackets.
turn you face down in the water. You can substitute an older Type V hybrid for any required Type I, II, or 111 li!e
Type IV throwables are not designed as personal flotation devices for uncon- jacket provided that its approval label shows it is approved !or the activity the
scious people, non-swimmers, or children. Use them only in emergencies. They vessel is engaged in, approved as a substitute !or a life jacket of the type
should not be used for, long periods in rough water. required on the vessel, used as required on the labels, and used in accordance
Ring life buoys come in 18, 20, 24, and 30 inch diameter sizes. They have with any requirements in its owner's manual, if the approval label makes refer-
grab lines. You should attach about 60 feet of polypropylene line to the grab ence to such a manual.
rope to aid in retrieving someone in the water. If you throw a ring, be careful not Awater skier being towed is considered to be on board the vessel when
to hit the person. Ring buoys can knock people unconscious judging compliance with legal requirements.
You are required to keep your Type I, II, or Ill life jackets or equivalent
Type V PFDs hybrids readily accessible, which means you must be able to reach out and get
them when needed. All life jackets must be in good, serviceable condition.
Type V PFDs are of two kinds, special use devices and hybrids. Special use
devices include boardsailing vests, deck suits, work vests, and others. They General Considerations
are approved only for the special uses or conditions indicated on their labels.
Each is designed and intended for the particular application shown on its label. The proper use of a life jacket requires the wearer to know how it will perform.
They do not meet legal requirements for general use aboard recreational boats. You can gain this knowledge only through experience. Each person on your boat
Hybrid life jackets are inflatable devices with some built-in buoyancy pro- should be assigned a life jacket. Next, it should be lilted to the person who will
vided by plastic loam or kapok. They can be inflated orally or by cylinders of wear it. Only then can you be sure that it will be ready !or use in an emergency.
compressed gas to give additional buoyancy. In some hybrids the gas is Boats can sink fast. There may be no time to look around for a life jacket. Fit-
released manually. In others it is released automatically when the life jacket is ting one on you in the water is almost impossible. This advice is good even if
immersed in water. the water is calm, and you intend to boat near shore. Most drownings occur in
The inherent buoyancy of a hybrid may be insufficient to float a person inland waters within a few feet of safety. Most victims had life jackets, but they
unless it is inflated. The only way to find this out is for the user to try it in the weren't wearing them.
water. Because of its limited buoyancy when deflated, a hybrid is recommended Keeping life jackets in the plastic covers they came wrapped in and in a
for use by anon-swimmer only if it is worn with enough inflation to float the cabin assures that they will stay clean and unladed. But this is no way to keep
wearer. them when you are on the water. When you need a life jacket it must be readily
I! they are to count against the legal requirement for the number of life jack- accessible and adjusted to lit you. You can't spend time hunting !or it or learn-
ets you must carry on your vessel, hybrids manufactured before February 8, ing how to lit it.
1995 must be worn whenever a boat is underway and the wearer is not below There is no substitute for the experience of entering the water while wearing a
decks or in an enclosed space. To find out if your Type V hybrid must be worn life jacket. Children, especially, need practice. If possible, give, your guests this
to satisfy the legal requirement, read its label. If its use is restricted it will say, experience. Tell them they should keep their arms to their sides when jumping
"REQUIRED TO BE WORN" in capital letters. in to keep the life jacket from riding up. Let them jump in and see how the life
Hybrids cost more than other life jackets, but this factor must be weighed jacket responds. Is it adjusted so it does not ride up? Is it the proper size? Are
against the fact that they are more comfortable than Type I, II, or Ill life jackets. all straps snug? Are children's life jackets the right sizes !or them? Are they
Because of their greater comfort, their owners are more likely to wear them than adjusted properly? I! a child's life jacket fits correctly, you can lift the child by
are the owners of Type I, II, or Ill li!e jackets. the jacket's shoulder straps and the child's chin and ears will not slip through.
The Coast Guard has determined that improved, less costly hybrids can save Non-swimmers, children, handicapped persons, elderly persons and even pets
lives since they will be bought and used more frequently. For these reasons a should always wear life jackets when they are aboard. Many states require that
new federal regulation was adopted effective February 8, 1995. The regulation everyone aboard wear them in hazardous waters.
increases both the deflated and inflated buoyancys of hybrids, makes them Inspect your lifesaving equipment from time to time. Leave any questionable
available in a greater variety of sizes and types, and reduces their costs by or unsatisfactory equipment on shore. An emergency is no time !or you to con-
reducing production costs. duct an inspection.
Even though it may not be required, the wearing of a hybrid or a life jacket is Indelibly mark your life jackets with your vessel's name, number, and calling
encouraged whenever a vessel is underway. Like life jackets, hybrids are now port. This can be important in a search and rescue effort. It could help concen-
available in three types. To meet legal requirements, a Type I hybrid can be sub- trate effort where it will do the most good.
stituted for a Type I life jacket. Similarly Type II and Ill hybrids can be substi-
tuted for Type II and Type Ill li!e jackets. A Type I hybrid, when inflated, will turn Care of Life Jackets
most unconscious people from !acedown to vertical or slightly backward posi-
tions just like a Type I life jacket. Type I and Ill hybrids !unction like Type II and Given reasonable care, life jackets last many years. Thoroughly dry them
Ill life jackets. I! you purchase a new hybrid, it should have an owner's manual before putting them away. Stow them in dry, well ventilated places. Avoid the
attached which describes its life jacket type and its deflated and inflated buoyan- bottoms of lockers and deck storage boxes where moisture may collect. Air and
cys. It warns you that it may have to be inflated to float you. The manual also dry them frequently.
tells you how to don the life jacket and how to inflate it. It also tells you how to Life jackets should not be tossed about or used as fenders or cushions. Many
change its inflation mechanism, recommended testing exercises, and inspection contain kapok or fibrous glass material enclosed in plastic bags. The bags can rup-
and maintenance procedures. The manual also tells you why you need a life ture and are then unserviceable. Squeeze your life jacket gently. Does air leak out? I!
jacket and why you should wear it. A new hybrid must be packaged with at least so, water can leak in and it will no longer be sale to use. Cut it Up so no one will
three gas cartridges. One of these may already be loaded into the inflation use it, and throw it away. The covers of some life jackets are made of nylon or poly-
mechanism. Likewise, if it has an automatic inflation mechanism, it must be ester. These materials are plastics. Like many plastics, they break down alter
packaged with at least three of these water sensitive elements. One of these ele- extended exposure to the ultraviolet light in sunlight. This process may be more
ments may be installed. rapid when the materials are dyed with bright dyes such as "neon" shades.
Ripped and badly faded fabric are clues that the covering of your life jacket is
Legal Requirements deteriorating. A simple test is to pinch the fabric between your thumbs and fore-
fingers. Now try to tear the fabric. I! it can be torn, it should definitely be
A Coast Guard approved life jacket must show the manufacturer's name and destroyed and discarded. Compare the colors in protected places to those
approval number. Most are marked as Type I, II, 111, IV, or V. All of the newer exposed to the sun. I! the colors have laded, the materials have been weakened.
hybrids are marked !or type. A fabric covered life jacket should ordinarily last several boating seasons with
You are required to carry at least one wearable life jacket or hybrid for each normal use. A life jacket used every day in direct sunlight should probably be
person on board your recreational vessel. I! your vessel is 16 feet or more in replaced more often.

SOUND PRODUCING DEVICES Recreational boats 16 feet or longer must carry VOS at all times on coastal
waters. The same requirement applies to boats carrying six or fewer passengers
All boats are required to carry some means of making an efficient sound sig- for hire. Open sailboats less than 26 feet long without engines are exempt in the
nal. Devices for making the whistle or horn noises required by the Navigation daytime as are manually propelled boats. Also exempt are boats in organized
Rules must be capable of a four second blast. The blast should be audible for at races, regattas, parades, etc. Boats owned in the United States and operating on
least one-half mile. Athletic whistles are not acceptable on boats 12 meters or the high seas must be equipped with VOS.
longer. Use caution with athletic whistles. When wet, some of them come apart A wide variety of signaling devices meet Coast Guard regulations. For
and loose their "pea." When this happens, they are useless. pyrotechnic devices, a minimum of three must be carried. Any combination can
If your vessel is 12 meters long and less than 20 meters, you must have a power be carried as long as it adds up to at least three signals for day use and at least
whistle (or power horn) and a bell on board. The bell must be in operating condi- three signals for night use. Three day/night signals meet both requirements. If
tion and have a minimum diameter of at least 200 mm (7.9 inches) at its mouth. possible, carry more than the legal requirement.
,..The American flag flying upside down is a commonly recognized dis-
VISUAL DISTRESS SIGNALS tress signal. II is not recognized in the Coast Guard regulations, though.
In an emergency, your efforts would probably be better used in more
•See Figure 10 effective signaling methods.
Visual Distress Signals (VOS) attract attention to your vessel if you need Types of VDS
help. They also help to guide searchers in search and rescue situations. Be sure
you have the right types, and learn how to use them properly. VOS are divided into two groups; daytime and nighttime use. Each of these
It is illegal to fire flares_ improperly. In addition, they cost the Coast Guard groups is subdivided into pyrotechnic and non-pyrotechnic devices.
and its Auxiliary many wasted hours in fruitless searches. If you signal a dis-
tress with flares and then someone helps you, please let the Coast Guard or the DAYTIME NON-PYROTECHNIC SIGNALS
appropriate Search And Rescue Agency (SAR) know so the distress report will A bright orange flag with a black square over a black circle is the simplest
be canceled. VOS. It is usable, of course, only in daylight. It has the advantage of being a con-
Recreational boats less than 16 feet long must carry visual distress signals tinuous signal. A mirror can be used to good advantage on sunny days. It can
on coastal waters at night. Coastal waters are: attract the attention of other boaters and of aircraft from great distances. Mirrors
• The ocean (territorial sea) are available with holes in their centers to aid in "aiming." In the absence of a
• The Greal Lakes mirror, any shiny object can be used. When another boat is in sight, an effective
• Bays or sounds that empty into oceans VOS is to extend your arms from your sides and move them up and down. Do it
• Rivers over two miles across at their mouths upstream to where they nar- slowly. If you do it too fast the other people may think you are just being friendly.
row to two miles. This simple gesture is seldom misunderstood, and requires no equipment.
DAYTIME PYROTECHNIC DEVICES
Orange smoke is a useful daytime signal. Hand-held or floating smoke flares
are very effective in attracting attention from aircraft. Smoke flares don't last
long, and are not very effective in high wind or poor visibility. As with other
pyrotechnic devices, use them only when you know there is a possibility that
someone will see the display.
To be usable, smoke flares must be kept dry. Keep them in airtight containers and
store them in dry places. If the "striker" is damp, dry it out before trying to ignite the
device. Some pyrotechnic devices require aforceful "strike" to ignite them.
All hand-held pyrotechnic devices may produce hot ashes or slag when
burning. Hold them over the side of your boat in such a way that they do not
burn your hand or drip into your boat.
Nighttime Non-Pyrotechnic Signals

An electric distress light is available. This light automatically flashes the
international morse code SOS distress signal (• • • • • • ). Flashed four to six
times a minute, it is an unmistakable distress signal. It must show that it is
approved by the Coast Guard. Be sure the batteries are fresh. Dated batteries
give assurance that they are current.
Under the Inland Navigation Rules, a high intensity white light flashing 50-70
times per minute is a distress signal. Therefore, use strobe lights on inland
waters only for distress signals.
Nighttime Pyrotechnic Devices

• See Figure 11
Aerial and hand-held flares can be used at night or in the daytime. Obviously,
they are more effective at night.
Currently, the serviceable life of a pyrotechnic device is rated at 42 months
from its date of manufacture. Pyrotechnic devices are expensive. Look at their
dates before you buy them. Buy them with as much time remaining as possible.
Like smoke flares, aerial and hand-held flares may fail to work if they have
been damaged or abused. They will not function if they are or have been wet.
Store them in dry, airtight containers in dry places. But store them where they
are readily accessible.
Aerial VDSs, depending on their type and the conditions they are used in,
04701G09
may not go very high. Again, use them only when there is a good chance they
Fig. 10 Internationally accepted distress signals will be seen.

Equipment Not Required But Recommended
Although not required by law, there are other pieces of equipment that are
good to have onboard.
SECOND MEANS OF PROPULSION
• See Figure 12
All boats less than 16 feet long should carry a second means of propulsion.
A paddle or oar can come in handy at times. For most small boats, a spare
trolling or outboard motor is an excellent idea. If you carry a spare motor, it
should have its own fuel tank and starting power. If you use an electric trolling
motor, it should have its own battery.
04701P33
Fig. 12 A typical wooden oar should be kept onboard as an auxiliary

means of propulsion. It can also function as a grab hook for some-
one fallen overboard
BAILING DEVICES
All boats should carry at least one effective manual bailing device in addition
to any installed electric bilge pump. This can be a bucket, can, scoop, hand oper-
ated pump, etc. If your battery "goes dead" it will not operate your electric pump.
04701P17
Fig. 11 Moisture protected flares should be carried onboard any FIRST AID KIT
vessel for use as a distress signal
• See Figure 13
A serious disadvantage of aerial flares is that they burn for only a short time. All boats should carry a first aid kit. It should contain adhesive bandages,
Most burn for less than 10 seconds. Most parachute flares burn for less than 45 gauze, adhesive tape, antiseptic, aspirin, etc. Check your first aid kit from time
seconds. If you use a VOS in an emergency, do so carefully. Hold hand-held to time. Replace anything that is outdated. It is to your advantage to know how
flares over the side of the boat when in use. Never use a road hazard flare on a to use your first aid kit. Another good idea would be to take a Red Cross first
boat, it can easily start a fire. Marine type flares are carefully designed to lessen aid course.
risk, but they still must be used carefully.
Aerial flares should be given the same respect as firearms since they are ANCHORS
firearms! Never point them at another person. Don't allow children to play with
them or around them. When you fire one, face away from the wind. Aim it down- • See Figure 14
wind and upward at an angle of about 60 degrees to the horizon. If there is a
strong wind, aim it somewhat more vertically. Never fire it straight up. Before All boats should have anchors. Choose one of suitable size for your boat.
you discharge a flare pistol, check for overhead obstructions. These might be Better still, have two anchors of different sizes. Use the smaller one in calm
damaged by the flare. They might deflect the flare to where it will cause damage.
Disposal of VOS
Keep outdated flares when you get new ones. They do not meet legal require-
ments, but you might need them sometime, and they may work. It is illegal to
fire a VOS on federal navigable waters unless an emergency exists. Many states
have similar laws.
Emergency Position Indicating Radio Beacon (EPIRB)

There is no requirement for recreational boats to have EPIRBs. Some com-
mercial and fishing vessels, though, must have them if they operate beyond the
three mile limit. Vessels carrying six or fewer passengers for hire must have
EPIRBs under some circumstances when operating beyond the three mile limit.
If you boat in a remote area or offshore, you should have an EPIRB. An EPIRB
is a small (about 6 to 20 inches high), battery-powered, radio transmitting
buoy-like device. It is a radio transmitter and requires a license or an endorse- 04701P18
ment on your radio station license by the Federal Communications Commis- Fig. 13 Always carry an adequately stocked first aid kit on board for
sion (FCC). EPIRBs are activated by being immersed in water or by a manual ~he safety of the crew and guests
switch.

04891P14
Fig. 14 Choose an anchor of sufficient weight to secure the boat
without dragging. In some cases separate anchors may be needed
for different situations
water or when anchoring for a short time to fish or eat. Use the larger one when
the water is rougher or for overnight anchoring.
Carry enough anchor line of suitable size for your boat and the waters in
which you will operate. If your engine fails you, the first thing you usually
should do is lower your anchor. This is good advice in shallow water where you
may be driven aground by the wind or water. It is also good advice in windy
weather or rough water. The anchor will usually hold your bow into the waves.
VHF-FM RADIO
04701P34
Your best means of summoning help in an emergency or in case of a break-
down is a VHF-FM radio. You can use it to get advice or assistance from the Fig. 15 A flashlight with a fresh set of batteries is handy when
Coast Guard. In the event of a serious illness or injury aboard your boat, the repairs are needed at night. It can also double as a signaling device
Coast Guard can have emergency medical equipment meet you ashore.
TOOLS AND SPARE PARTS

Carry a few tools and some spare parts, and learn how to make minor
repairs. Many search and rescue cases are caused by minor breakdowns that
boat operators could have repaired. If your engine is an inboard or stern drive,
carry spare belts and water pump impellers and the tools to change them.
Courtesy Marine Examinations

One of the roles of the Coast Guard Auxiliary is to promote recreational boat-
ing safety. This is why they conduct thousands of Courtesy Marine Examina-
tions each year. The auxiliarists who do these examinations are well-trained and
knowledgeable in the field.
These examinations are free and done only at the consent of boat owners. To
pass the examination, a vessel must satisfy federal equipment requirements and
certain additional requirements of the coast guard auxiliary. If your vessel does
not pass the Courtesy Marine Examination, no report of the failure is made.
Instead, you will be told what you need to correct the deficiencies. The examiner
will return at your convenience to redo the examination.
If your vessel qualifies, you will be awarded a safety decal. The decal does Fig. 16 A few wrenches, a screwdriver and maybe a pair of pliers
not carry any special privileges, it simply attests to your interest in safe boating. can be very helpful to make emergency repairs

SAFETY IN SERVICE
It is virtually impossible to anticipate all of the hazards involved with mainte- • Do be sure that adjustable wrenches are tightly closed on the nut or bolt
nance and service, but care and common sense will prevent most accidents. and pulled so that the force is on the side of the fixed jaw. Better yet, avoid the
The rules of safety for mechanics range from "don't smoke around gasoline," use of an adjustable if you have a fixed wrench that will fit.
to "use the proper tool(s) for the job." The trick to avoiding injuries is to • Do strike squarely with a hammer; avoid glancing blows. But, we REALLY
develop safe work habits and to take every possible precaution. Whenever you hope you won't be using a hammer much in basic maintenance.
are working on your boat, pay attention to what you are doing. The more you • Do use common sense whenever you work on your boat or motor. If a sit-
pay attention to details and what is going on around you, the less likely you will uation arises that doesn't seem right, sit back and have a second look. It may
be to hurt yourself or damage your boat. save an embarrassing moment or potential damage to your beloved boat.
Do's Don'ts
• Do keep a fire extinguisher and first aid kit handy. • Don't run the engine in an enclosed area or anywhere else without proper
• Do wear safety glasses or goggles when cutting, drilling, grinding or pry- ventilation-EVER! Carbon monoxide is poisonous; it takes a long time to leave
ing, even if you have 20-20 vision. If you wear glasses for the sake of vision, the human body and you can build up a deadly supply of it in your system by
wear safety goggles over your regular glasses. simply breathing in a little every day. You may not realize you are slowly poi-
• Do shield your eyes whenever you work around the battery. Batteries con- soning yourself.
tain sulfuric acid. In case of contact with the eyes or skin, flush the area with • Don't work around moving parts while wearing loose clothing. Short
water or a mixture of water and baking soda, then seek immediate medical atten- sleeves are much safer than long, loose sleeves. Hard-toed shoes with neo-
tion. prene soles protect your toes and give a better grip on slippery surfaces.
• Do use adequate ventilation when working with any chemicals or haz- Jewelry, watches, large belt buckles, or body adornment of any kind is not
ardous materials. safe working around any vehicle. Long hair should be tied back under a
• Do disconnect the negative battery cable when working on the electrical hat.
system. The secondary ignition system contains EXTREMELY HIGH VOLTAGE. • Don't use pockets for toolboxes. A fall or bump can drive a screwdriver
In some cases it can even exceed 50,000 volts. deep into your body. Even a rag hanging from your back pocket can wrap
• Do follow manufacturer's directions whenever working with potentially around a spinning shaft.
hazardous materials. Most chemicals and fluids are poisonous if taken inter- • Don't smoke when working around gasoline, cleaning solvent or other
nally. flammable material.
• Do properly maintain your tools. Loose hammerheads, mushroomed • Don't smoke when working around the battery. When the battery is being
punches and chisels, frayed or poorly grounded electrical cords, excessively charged, it gives off explosive hydrogen gas. Actually, you shouldn't smoke any-
worn screwdrivers, spread wrenches (open end), cracked sockets, or slipping way. Save the cigarette money and put it into your boat!
ratchets can cause accidents. • Don't use gasoline to wash your hands; there are excellent soaps avail-
• Likewise, keep your tools clean; a greasy wrench can slip off a bolt head, able. Gasoline contains dangerous additives which can enter the body through a
ruining the bolt and often harming your knuckles in the process. cut or through your pores. Gasoline also removes all the natural oils from the
• Do use the proper size and type of tool for the job at hand. Do select a skin so that bone dry hands will suck up oil and grease.
wrench or socket that fits the nut or bolt. The wrench or socket should sit • Don't use screwdrivers for anything other than driving screws! A screw-
straight, not cocked. driver used as an prying tool can snap when you least expect it, causing
• Do, when possible, pull on a wrench handle rather than push on it, and injuries. At the very least, you'll ruin a good screwdriver.
adjust your stance to prevent a fall.

TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT 2-2
SAFETY TOOLS 2-2
WORK GLOVES 2-2
EYE AND EAR PROTECTION 2-2
WORK CLOTHES 2-3
CHEMICALS 2-3
LUBRICANTS & PENETRANTS 2-3
SEALANTS 2-4
CLEANERS 2-4
TOOLS 2-5
HAND TOOLS 2-5
SOCKET SETS 2-5
WRENCHES 2-8
PLIERS 2-9
SCREWDRIVERS 2-9
HAMMERS 2-9 _
OTHER COMMON TOOLS 2-10
SPECIAL TOOLS 2-10
ELECTRONIC TOOLS 2-10
GAUGES 2-11
MEASURING TOOLS 2-12
MICROMETERS & CALIPERS 2-12
DIAL INDICATORS 2-13
TELESCOPING GAUGES 2-13
DEPTH GAUGES 2-13
FASTENERS, MEASUREMENTS AND
CONVERSIONS 2-14
BOLTS, NUTS AND OTHER THREADED
RETAINERS 2-14
TORQUE 2-15
STANDARD AND METRIC
MEASUREMENTS 2-15
SPECIFICATIONS CHARTS
CONVERSION FACTORS 2-16

2-2 TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT
TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT
Safety Tools
WORK GLOVES
t See Figures 1 and 2

Unless you think scars on your hands are cool, enjoy pain and like wearing ban-
dages, get a good pair of work gloves. Canvas or leather are the best. And yes, we
realize that there are some jobs involving small parts that can't be done while wear-
ing work gloves. These jobs are not the ones usually associated with hand injuries.
A good pair of rubber gloves (such as those usually associated with dish
washing) or vinyl gloves is also a great idea. There are some liquids such as
solvents and penetrants that don't belong on your skin. Avoid burns and rashes.
Wear these gloves.
And lastly, an option. If you're tired of being greasy and dirty all the time, go
to the drug store and buy a box of disposable latex gloves like medical profes-
sionals wear. You can handle greasy parts, perform small tasks, wash parts, etc.
all without getting dirty! These gloves take a surprising amount of abuse without
tearing and aren't expensive. Note however, that it has been reported that some 04892P14
people are allergic to the latex or the powder used inside some gloves, so pay Fig. 2 Latex gloves come in handy when you are doing those messy
attention to what you buy.
jobs
EYE AND EAR PROTECTION
I! you wear vision correcting glasses as a matter of routine, get a pair made
t See Figures 3 and 4 with polycarbonate lenses. These lenses are impact resistant and are available at
Don't begin any job without a good pair of work goggles or impact resistant any optometrist.
glasses! When doing any kind of work, it's all too easy to avoid eye injury Olten overlooked is hearing protection. Power equipment is noisy! Loud
through this simple precaution. And don't just buy eye protection and leave it on noises damage your ears. It's as simple as that! The simplest and cheapest form
the shelf. Wear it all the time! Things have a habit of breaking, chipping, splash- of ear protection is a pair of noise-reducing ear plugs. Cheap insurance !or your
ing, spraying, splintering and !lying around. And, !or some reason, your eye is ears. And, they may even come with their own, cute little carrying case.
always in the way! More substantial, more protection and more money is a good pair of noise
87933518
Fig. 1 Three different types of work gloves. The box contains latex gloves

When a particular chemical is not being used, keep it capped, upright and in
a safe place. These substances may be flammable, may be irritants or might
even be caustic and should always be stored properly, used properly and han-
dled with care. Always read and follow all label directions and be sure to wear
hand and eye protection!
LUBRICANTS & PENETRANTS
t See Figure 5
Anti-seize is used to coat certain fasteners prior to installation. This can be
especially helpful when two dissimilar metals are in contact (to help prevent
corrosion that might lock the fastener in place). This is a good practice on a lot
of different fasteners, BUT, NOT on any fastener which might vibrate loose caus-
ing a problem. If anti-seize is used on a fastener, it should be checked periodi-
cally for proper tightness.
Lithium grease, chassis lube, silicone grease or a synthetic brake caliper
grease can all be used pretty much interchangeably. All can be used for coating
04892P08 rust-prone fasteners and for facilitating the assembly of parts that are a tight fit.
Fig. 3 Don't begin af!Y job without a good pair of work goggles or Silicone and synthetic greases are the most versatile.
impact resistant glasses. Also good noise reducing earmuffs are ,-silicone dielectric grease is a non-conductor that is often used to coat
cheap insurance to protect your hearing the terminals of wiring connectors before fastening them. It may sound
odd to coal metal portions of a terminal with something that won't con-
duct electricity, but here is ii how ii works. When the connector is fas-
tened the metal-to-metal contact between the terminals will displace
. . . . . . . . . . ............
..... ..... ...
···:··. ............... the grease (allowing the circuit to be completed). The grease that is dis-
.... ..... . .. .......................
'
..... '
''
~· ~
placed will then coat the non-contacted surface and the cavity around
;:.~!i!:!~i!f!ii!i~::~~!iUif
the terminals, SEALING them from atmospheric moisture that could
.. . . . . . .
If lit tff :·
. . . . . . . . .. . .
cause corrosion.
" ........ . .. "
,. ~ Silicone spray is a good lubricant for hard-to-reach places and parts that
shouldn't be gooped up with grease.
Penetrating oil may turn out to be one of your best friends when taking
something apart that has corroded fasteners. Not only can they make a job eas-
ier, they can really help to avoid broken and stripped fasteners. The most famil-
iar penetrating oils are Liquid Wrench® and WD-40®. A newer penetrant, PB
Blaster® also works well. These products have hundreds of uses. For your pur-
poses, they are vital!
Before disassembling any part (especially on an exhaust system), check
the fasteners. If any appear rusted, soak them thoroughly with the penetrant
and let them stand while you do something else (for particularly rusted or
frozen parts you may need to soak them a few days in advance). This simple
act can save you hours of tedious work trying to extract a broken bolt or
04892P28 stud.
Fig. 4 Things have a habit of breaking, chipping, splashing, spray-
ing, splintering and flying around. And, for some reason, your eye
is always in the way
reducing earmuffs. They protecUrom all but the loudest sounds. Hopefully
those are sounds that you'll never encounter since they're usually associated
with disasters.
WORK CLOTHES
Everyone has "work clothes." Usually these consist of old jeans and a shirt
that has seen better days. That's fine. In addition, a denim work apron is a nice
accessory. It's rugged, can hold some spare bolts, and you don't feel bad wiping
your hands or tools on it. That's what it's for.
When working in cold weather, a one-piece, thermal work outfit is invaluable.
Most are rated to below zero (Fahrenheit) temperatures and are ruggedly con-
structed. Just look at what the marine mechanics are wearing and that should
give you a clue as to what type of clothing is good.
Chemicals
04892P09
There is a whole range of chemicals that you'll find handy for maintenance Fig. 5 Antiseize, penetrating oil, lithium grease, electronic cleaner
work. The most common types are, lubricants, penetrants and sealers. Keep and silicone spray. These products have hundreds of uses and
these handy onboard. There are also many chemicals that are used for detailing should be a part of your chemical tool collection
or cleaning.

SEALANTS faces of each part to be joined, then a gasket is put in place and the parts are
assembled.
• See Figures 6 and 7 ,,.A sometimes overlooked use for sealants like RTV is on the threads of
Sealants are an indispensable part for certain tasks, especially if you vibration prone fasteners.
are trying to avoid leaks. The purpose of sealants is to establish a leak- One very helpful type of non-hardening sealer is the "high tack" type. This
proof bond between or around assembled parts. Most sealers are used in type is a very sticky material that holds the gasket in place while the parts are
conjunction with gaskets, but some are used instead of conventional gasket being assembled. This stuff is really a good idea when you don't have enough
material. hands or fingers to keep everything where it should be.
The most common sealers are the non-hardening types such as The stand-alone sealers are the Room Temperature Vulcanizing (RTV) sili-
Permatex®No.2 or its equivalents. These sealers are applied to the mating sur- cone gasket makers. On some engines, this material is used instead of a gasket.
87933507
Fig. 6 Sealants are essential for preventing leaks
In those instances, a gasket may not be available or, because of the shape of the
mating surfaces, a gasket shouldn't be used. This stuff, when used in conjunc-
tion with a conventional gasket, produces the surest bonds.
RTV does have its limitations though. When using this material, you will
have a time limit. It starts to set-up within 15 minutes or so, so you have to
assemble the parts without delay. In addition, when squeezing the material out
of the tube, don't drop any glops into the engine. The stuff will form and set and
travel around the oil gallery, possibly plugging up a passage. Also, most types
are not fuel-proof. Check the tube for all cautions.
CLEANERS

There are two types of cleaners on the market today: parts cleaners and hand
cleaners. The parts cleaners are for the parts; the hand cleaners are for you.
They are not interchangeable.
There are many good, non-flammable, biodegradable parts cleaners on the
market. These cleaning agents are safe for you, the parts and the environment.
04892P10 Therefore, there is no reason to use flammable, caustic or toxic substances to
Fig. 7 On some engines, RTV is used instead of gasket material to clean your parts or tools.
seal components As far as hand cleaners go, the waterless types are the best. They have
always been efficient at cleaning, but leave a pretty smelly odor. Recently

87933018 04892P12
Fig. 8 The new citrus hand cleaners not only work well, but they Fig. 9 The use of hand lotion seals your hands and keeps dirt and
smell pretty good too. Choose one with pumice for added cleaning grease from sticking to your skin
power
~Most women will tell you to use a hand lotion when you're all cleaned
though, just about all of them have eliminated the odor and added stuff that up. It's okay. Real men DO use hand lotion! Believe ii or not, using hand
actually smells good. Make sure that you pick one that contains lanolin or some lotion before your hands are dirty will actually make them easier to
other moisture-replenishing additive. Cleaners not only remove grease and oil clean when you're finished with a dirty job. Lotion seals your hands,
but also skin oil. and keeps dirt and grease from sticking to your skin.
TOOLS
t See Figure 10 recommended buy your local professional retailer. Let's go over a list of tools
that you'll need.
Tools; this subject could fill a completely separate manual. The first thing Most of the world uses the metric system. However, some American-built
you will need to ask yourself, is just how involved do you plan to get. If you engines and aftermarket accessories use standard fasteners. So, accumulate
are serious about your maintenance you will want to gather a quality set of your tools accordingly. Any good DIYer should have a decent set of both U.S.
tools to make the job easier, and more enjoyable. BESIDES, TOOLS ARE and metric measure tools.
FUN!I!
Almost every do-it-yourselfer loves to accumulate tools. Though most find a ~Don't be confused by terminology. Most advertising refers to "SAE
way to perform jobs with only a few common tools, they tend to buy more over and metric", or "standard and metric." Both are misnomers. The Soci-
time, as money allows. So gathering the tools necessary for maintenance does ety of Automotive Engineers (SAE) did not invent the English system of
not have to be an expensive, overnight proposition. measurement; the English did. The SAE likes metrics just fine. Both
When buying tools, the saying "You get what you pay for . . " is absolutely English (U.S.) and metric measurements are SAE approved. Also, the
true! Don't go cheap! Any hand tool that you buy should be drop forged and/or current "standard" measurement IS metric. So, if it's not metric, it's
chrome vanadium. These two qualities tell you that the tool is strong enough for U.S. measurement.
the job. With any tool, go with a name that you've heard of before, or, that is
Hand Tools
SOCKET SETS
t See Figures 11 thru 17

Socket sets are the most basic hand tools necessary for repair and mainte-
nance work. For our purposes, socket sets come in three drive sizes: % inch,
% inch and 112 inch. Drive size refers to the size of the drive lug on the ratchet,
breaker bar or speed handle.
A% inch set is probably the most versatile set in any mechanic's tool box. It
allows you to get into tight places that the larger drive ratchets can't and gives
you a range of larger sockets that are still strong enough for heavy duty work.
The socket set that you'll need should range in sizes from% inch through 1
inch for standard fasteners, and a 6mm through 19mm for metric fasteners.
You'll need a good 112 inch set since this size drive lug assures that you won't
break a ratchet or socket on large or heavy fasteners. Also, torque wrenches with
a torque scale high enough for larger fasteners are usually 112 inch drive.
% inch drive sets can be very handy in tight places. Though they usually
duplicate functions of the% inch set, % inch drive sets are easier to use for
TCCX1P08 smaller bolts and nuts.
Fig. 10 Socket holders, especially the magnetic type, are handy As for the sockets themselves, they come in standard and deep lengths as
items to keep tools in order well as 6or12 point. 6 and 12 points refers to how many sides are in the

04892P11
Fig. 11 A% inch socket set is probably Fig. 12 A swivel (LI-joint) adapter (left), a
the most versatile tool in any mechanic's 1/4 inch-to-% inch adapter (center) and a Fig. 13 Ratchets come in all sizes and
tool box % inch-to-% inch adapter (right) configurations from rigid to swivel-headed
04892P20
04892P15 Fig. 15 Hex-head fasteners retain many
Fig. 14 Standard length sockets (top) are components on modern powerheads. 04892P18
good for just about all jobs. However, some These fasteners require a socket with a
bolts may require deep sockets (bottom) hex shaped driver Fig. 16 Torx® drivers . . .
you stick to the sockets on any tight fastener and leave the hex keys for Iighter
applications. Hex driver sockets are available individually or in sets just like
conventional sockets.
More and more, manufacturers are using Torx® head fasteners, which were
once known as tamper resistant fasteners (because many people did not have
tools with the necessary odd driver shape). They are still used where the manu-
facturer would prefer only knowledgeable mechanics or advanced Do-lt-Your-
selfers (DIYers) to work.
Torque Wrenches
• See Figure 18
In most applications, a torque wrench can be used to assure proper installa-
tion of a fastener. Torque wrenches come in various designs and most stores
will carry a variety to suit your needs. A torque wrench should be used any time
you have a specific torque value for a fastener. Keep in mind that because there
is no worldwide standardization of fasteners, the charts at the end of this section
are a general guideline and should be used with caution. If you are using the
right tool for the job, you should not have to strain to tighten a fastener.
04892P19
Fig. 17 . . . and tamper resistant drivers are required to remove
special fasteners installed by the manufacturers
socket itself. Each has advantages. The 6 point socket is stronger and less
prone to slipping which would strip a bolt head or nut 12 point sockets are
more common, usually less expensive and can operate better in tight places
where the ratchet handle can't swing far.
Standard length sockets are good for just about all jobs, however, some
stud-head bolts, hard-to-reach bolts, nuts on long studs, etc , require the deep
04892P30
sockets.
Most manufacturers use recessed hex-head fasteners to retain many of the Fig. 18 Three types of torque wrenches. Top to bottom: a% inch
engine parts. These fasteners require a socket with a hex shaped driver or a drive beam type that reads in inch lbs., a 112 inch drive clicker type
large sturdy hex key. To help prevent torn knuckles, we would recommend that and a 112 inch drive beam type

BEAM TYPE
The beam type torque wrench is one of the most popular styles in use. If
used properly, it can be the most accurate also. II consists of a pointer attached
to the head that runs the length of the flexible beam (shaft) to a scale located
near the handle. As the wrench is pulled, the beam bends and the pointer indi-
cates the torque using the scale.
POINTER
a
TCCS1040
0
Fig. 21 A click type or breakaway torque wrench-note this one has

BEAM OR MEASURINC ELEMENT
a pivoting head
TCCS1039
Fig. 19 Parts of a beam type torque wrench
04892P32
Fig. 22 Selling the proper torque on a click type torque wrench
involves turning the handle until the proper torque specification
appears on the dial
04892P33
Fig. 20 A beam type torque wrench consists of a pointer attached to
the head that runs the length of the flexible beam (shall) to a scale
located near the handle
CLICK (BREAKAWAY) TYPE

Another popular torque wrench design is the click type. The clicking mecha-
nism makes achieving the proper torque easy and most use ratcheting head for
ease of bolt installation. To use the click type wrench you pre-adjust it to a
torque setting. Once the torque is reached, the wrench has a reflex signaling
feature that causes a momentary breakaway of the torque wrench body, sending
an impulse to the operator's hand.
Breaker Bars
• See Figure 23
Breaker bars are long handles with a drive lug. Their main purpose is to pro-
vide extra turning force when breaking loose tight bolts or nuts. They come in 90991P37
all drive sizes and lengths. Always take extra precautions and use proper tech- Fig. 23 Breaker bars are great for loosening large or stuck fasteners
nique when using a breaker bar.

WRENCHES come in both 6 and 12 point versions just like sockets and each type has the
same advantages and disadvantages as sockets.
• See Figures 24, 25, 26, 27 and 28 Combination wrenches have the best of both. They have a 2-jawed open end
and a box end. These wrenches are probably the most versatile.
Basically, there are 3 kinds of fixed wrenches: open end, box end, and com- As for sizes, you'll probably need a range similar to that of the sockets, about
bination. 114 inch through 1 inch for standard fasteners, or 6mm through 19mm for metric
Open end wrenches have 2-jawed openings at each end of the wrench. These fasteners. As for numbers, you'll need 2 of each size, since, in many instances,
wrenches are able to fit onto just about any nut or bolt They are extremely ver- one wrench holds the nut while the other turns the bolt On most fasteners, the
satile but have one major drawback. They can slip on a worn or rounded bolt nut and bolt are the same size so having two wrenches of the same size comes
head or nut, causing bleeding knuckles and a useless fastener. in handy.
Box-end wrenches have a 360° circular jaw at each end of the wrench. They
INCHES
1/8"
3/16"
DECIMAL
.125
.187
DECIMAL
3mm
.118 _ _ _ _ _ _ _
, , , _ _ _ _ _ ___:_:...:...=_
.157
__
MILLIMETERS
4mm
~
114" .250 .236 6mm
5/16" .312 .354 9mm
!--~----'--'-----------
3/8" .375 .394 10mm
7 /16" .437 .472 12mm
1 /2" .500 .512 13mm
9/16" .562 .590 15mm
5/8" .625 .630 16mm
11 /16" .687 .709 18mm
3/4"
13/16"
.750
.812
~·~!· ------------------
.787 20mm
.748 19mm
718" .875 .866 22mm
E!)-_____:.:__:.:___ _ .945
.984
24mm
25mm
87933106
Fig. 24 Comparison of U.S. measure and metric wrench sizes
Fig. 25 Always use a backup wrench to prevent rounding flare nut Fig. 26 Note how the flare wrench sides are extended to grip the fit-
fittings ting tighter and prevent rounding

TCCS1203
87933005
Fig. 29 Pliers and cutters come in many shapes and sizes. You
Fig. 27 Several types and sizes of adjustable wrenches should have an assortment on hand
In addition to standard pliers there are the slip-joint, multi-position pliers

such as ChannelLock® pliers and locking pliers, such as Vise Grips®.
Slip joint pliers are extremely valuable in grasping oddly sized parts and fas-
teners. Just make sure that you don't use them instead of a wrench too often
since they can easily round off a bolt head or nut.
Locking pliers are usually used for gripping bolts or studs that can't be
removed conventionally. You can get locking pliers in square jawed, needle-
nosed and pipe-jawed. Locking pliers can rank right up behind duct tape as the
handy-man's best friend.
SCREWDRIVERS
You can't have too many screwdrivers. They come in 2 basic flavors, either
standard or Phillips. Standard blades come in various sizes and thicknesses for
all types of slotted fasteners. Phillips screwdrivers come in sizes with number
designations from 1 on up, with the lower number designating the smaller size.
Screwdrivers can be purchased separately or in sets.
04892P21 HAMMERS
Fig. 28 Occasionally you will find a nut which requires a particularly
large or particularly small wrench. Rest assured that the proper • See Figure 30
wrench to Iii is available at your local tool store You always need a hammer for just about any kind of work. You need a ball-
peen hammer for most metal work when using drivers and other like tools. A
,..Although you will typically just need the sizes we specified, there are
some exceptions. Occasionally you will find a nut which is larger. For
these, you will need to buy ONE expensive wrench or a very large
adjustable. Or you can always just convince the spouse that we are talk-
ing about safety here and buy a whole (read expensive) large wrench set.
One extremely valuable type of wrench is the adjustable wrench. An
adjustable wrench has a fixed upper jaw and a moveable lower jaw. The lower
jaw is moved by turning a threaded drum. The advantage of an adjustable
wrench is its ability to be adjusted to just about any size fastener.
The main drawback of an adjustable wrench is the lower jaw's tendency to
move slightly under heavy pressure. This can cause the wrench to slip if it is
not facing the right way. Pulling on an adjustable wrench in the proper direction
will cause the jaws to lock in place. Adjustable wrenches come in a large range
of sizes, measured by the wrench length.
PLIERS
• See Figure 29
Pliers are simply mechanical fingers. They are, more than anything, an 87933008
extension of your hand. At least 3 pair of pliers are an absolute necessity- Fig. 30 Three types of hammers. Top to bottom: ball peen, rubber
standard, needle nose and channel lock. dead-blow, and plastic

plastic hammer comes in handy for hitting things safely. A soft-faced dead-blow
hammer is used for hitting things safely and hard. Hammers are also VERY use-
ful with non air-powered impact drivers.
OTHER COMMON TOOLS
There are a lot of other tools that every DIYer will eventually need (though
not all for basic maintenance). They include:
• Funnels (for adding fluid)
• Chisels
• Punches
• Files
• Hacksaw
• Portable Bench Vise
• Tap and Die Set
• Flashlight
• Magnetic Bolt Retriever
• Gasket scraper
• Putty Knife
05002P08
• Screw/Bolt Extractors
• Prybar Fig. 31 Almost every marine engine requires at least one special
Hacksaws have just one use-cutting things off. You may wonder why you'd tool to perform a certain task
need one for something as simple as maintenance, but you never know. Among
other things, guide studs to ease parts installation can be made from old bolts
with their heads cut off. socket capable of 150 ft. lbs. (203 Nm) of torque that is used only on the crank-
A tap and die set might be something you've never needed, but you will shaft nut of the limited production what-dya-callit engine) that tend to be outra-
eventually. It's a good rule, when everything is apart, to clean-up all threads, on geously expensive and hard to find. Luckily, you wil I probably never need such
bolts, screws and threaded holes. Also, you'll likely run across a situation in a tool.
which stripped threads will be encountered. The tap and die set will handle that Special tools can be as inexpensive and simple as an adjustable strap
for you. wrench or as complicated as an ignition tester. A few common specialty tools
Gasket scrapers are just what you'd think, tools made for scraping old gasket are listed here, but check with your dealer or with other boaters for help in
material off of parts. You don't absolutely need one. Old gasket material can be determining if there are any special tools for YOUR particular engine. There is
removed with a putty knife or single edge razor blade. However, putty knives an added advantage in seeking advice from others, chances are they may have
may not be sharp enough for some really stubborn gaskets and razor blades already found the special tool you will need, and know how to get it cheaper.
have a knack of breaking just when you don't want them to, inevitably slicing the
nearest body part! As the old saying goes, "always use the proper tool for the ELECTRONIC TOOLS
job". If you're going to use a razor to scrape a gasket, be sure to always use a
blade holder.
Putty knives really do have a use in a repair shop. Just because you remove Battery Testers
all the bolts from a component sealed with a gasket doesn't mean it's going to The best way to test a non-sealed battery is using a hydrometer to
come off. Most of the time, the gasket and sealer will hold it tightly. Lightly driv- check the specific gravity of the acid. Luckily, these are usually inexpensive
ing a putty knife at various points between the two parts will break the seal with- and are available at most parts stores. Just be careful because the larger
out damage to the parts. testers are usually designed for larger batteries and may require more acid
A small - 8-10 inches (20-25 centimeters) long - prybar is extremely than you will be able to draw from the battery cell. Smaller testers (usually a
useful for removing stuck parts. short, squeeze bulb type) will require less acid and should work on most
_.Never use a screwdriver as a prybar! Screwdrivers are not meant for batteries.
prying. Screwdrivers, used for prying, can break, sending the broken Electronic testers are available and are often necessary to tell if a sealed bat-
shall flying! tery is usable. Luckily, many parts stores have them on hand and are willing to
test your battery for you.
Screw/bolt extractors are used for removing broken bolts or studs that have
broke off flush with the surface of the part. Battery Chargers
SPECIAL TOOLS • See Figure 32
If you are a weekend boater and take your boat out every week, then you will
• See Figure 31 most likely want to buy a battery charger to keep your battery fresh. There are
Almost every marine engine around today requires at least one special tool to many types available, from low amperage trickle chargers to electronically con-
perform a certain task. In most cases, these tools are specially designed to over- trolled battery maintenance tools which monitor the battery voltage to prevent
come some unique problem or to fit on some oddly sized component. over or undercharging. This last type is especially useful if you store your boat
When manufacturers go through the trouble of making a special tool, it is for any length of time (such as during the severe winter months found in many
usually necessary to use it to assure that the job will be done right. A special Northern climates).
tool might be designed to make a job easier, or it might be used to keep you Even if you use your boat on a regular basis, you will eventually need a bat-
from damaging or breaking a part. tery charger. Remember that most batteries are shipped dry and in a partial
Don't worry, MOST basic maintenance procedures can either be performed charged state. Before a new battery can be put into service it must be filled and
without any special tools OR, because the tools must be used for such basic properly charged. Failure to properly charge a battery (which was shipped dry)
things, they are commonly available for a reasonable price. It is usually just the before it is put into service will prevent it from ever reaching a fully charged
low production, highly specialized tools (like a super thin 7-point star-shaped state.

tive lead to the positive(+) side of the circuit (to the power source or the nearest
power source). Note that the negative voltmeter lead will always be black and that
the positive voltmeter will always be some color other than black (usually red).
• Ohmmeter-the ohmmeter is designed to read resistance (measured in
ohms) in a circuit or component. Most ohmmeters will have a selector switch
which permits the measurement of different ranges of resistance (usually the
selector switch allows the multiplication of the meter reading by 10, 100, 1,000
and 10,000). Some ohmmeters are "auto-ranging" which means the meter itself
will determine which scale to use. Since the meters are powered by an internal
battery, the ohmmeter can be used like a self-powered test light. When the ohm-
meter is connected, current from the ohmmeter flows through the circuit or
component being tested. Since the ohmmeter's internal resistance and voltage
are known values, the amount of current flow through the meter depends on the
resistance of the circuit or component being tested. The ohmmeter can also be
used to perform a continuity test for suspected open circuits. In using the meter
for making continuity checks, do not be concerned with the actual resistance
readings. Zero resistance, or any ohm reading, indicates continuity in the cir-
cuit. Infinite resistance indicates an opening in the circuit. A high resistance
reading where there should be none indicates a problem in the circuit. Checks
for short circuits are made in the same manner as checks for open circuits,
Fig. 32 The Battery Tender® is more than just a battery charger, except that the circuit must be isolated from both power and normal ground.
when left connected, it keeps your battery fully charged Infinite resistance indicates no continuity, while zero resistance indicates a dead
short.
Digital Volt/Ohm Meter (DVOM)

**WARNING
• See Figure 33 Never use an ohmmeter to check the resistance of a component or
wire while there is voltage applied to the circuit.
Multi meters are an extremely useful tool for troubleshooting electrical prob-
lems. They can be purchased in either analog or digital form and have a price • Ammeter-an ammeter measures the amount of current flowing through a
range to suit any budget. A multimeter is a voltmeter, ammeter and ohmmeter circuit in units called amperes or amps. At normal operating voltage, most cir-
(along with other features) combined into one instrument. It is often used when cuits have a characteristic amount of amperes, called "current draw" which can
testing solid state circuits because of its high input impedance (usually 10 be measured using an ammeter. By referring to a specified current draw rating,
megaohms or more). A brief description of the multimeter main test functions then measuring the amperes and comparing the two values, one can determine
follows: what is happening within the circuit to aid in diagnosis. An open circuit, for
• Voltmeter-the voltmeter is used to measure voltage at any point in a cir- example, will not allow any current to flow, so the ammeter reading will be zero.
cuit, or to measure the voltage drop across any part of a circuit. Voltmeters usu- A damaged component or circuit will have an increased current draw, so the
ally have various scales and a selector switch to allow the reading of different reading will be high. The ammeter is always connected in series with the circuit
voltage ranges. The voltmeter has a positive and a negative lead. To avoid dam- being tested. All of the current that normally flows through the circuit must also
age to the meter, always connect the negative lead to the negative(-) side of the flow through the ammeter; if there is any other path for the current to follow, the
circuit (to ground or nearest the ground side of the circuit) and connect the posi- ammeter reading will not be accurate. The ammeter itself has very little resis-
tance to current flow and, therefore, will not affect the circuit, but it will measure
current draw only when the circuit is closed and electricity is flowing. Excessive
current draw can blow fuses and drain the battery, while a reduced current draw
can cause motors to run slowly, lights to dim and other components to not
operate properly.
GAUGES
Compression Gauge
•See Figure 34
An important element in checking the overall condition of your engine is to
check compression. This becomes increasingly more important on outboards
with high hours. Compression gauges are available as screw-in types and ho/d-
in types. The screw-in type is slower to use, but eliminates the possibility of a
faulty reading due to escaping pressure. A compression reading will uncover
many problems that can cause rough running. Normally, these are not the sort
of problems that can be cured by a tune-up.
Vacuum Gauge
05005P63 • See Figures 35 and 36
Fig. 33 Multimeters are an extremely useful tool for troubleshooting
electrical problems Vacuum gauges are handy for discovering air leaks, late ignition or valve
timing, and a number of other problems.

Measuring Tools
Eventually, you are going to have to measure something. To do this, you will
need at least a few precision tools in addition to the special tools mentioned
earlier.
MICROMETERS &CALIPERS
Micrometers and calipers are devices used to make extremely precise

measurements. The simple truth is that you really won't have the need for
many of these items just for simple maintenance. You will probably want to
have at least one precision tool such as an outside caliper to measure rotors
or brake pads, but that should be sufficient to most basic maintenance pro-
cedures.
Should you decide on becoming more involved in boat engine mechanics,
such as repair or rebuilding, then these tools will become very important. The
success of any rebuild is dependent, to a great extent on the ability to check the
size and fit of components as specified by the manufacturer. These measure-
ments are made in thousandths and ten-thousandths of an inch.
04892P37
Fig. 34 Cylinder compression test results are extremely valuable Micrometers
indicators of internal engine condition
• See Figure 37
A micrometer is an instrument made up of a precisely machined spindle
which is rotated in a fixed nut, opening and closing the distance between the
end of the spindle and a fixed anvil.
Outside micrometers can be used to check the thickness parts such shims or
the outside diameter of components like the crankshaft journals. They are also
used during many rebuild and repair procedures to measure the diameter of
components such as the pistons. The most common type of micrometer reads
in 1/1000 of an inch. Micrometers that use a vernier scale can estimate to 1/10
of an inch.
Inside micrometers are used to measure the distance between two parallel
surfaces. For example, in powerhead rebuilding work, the inside mike measures
cylinder bore wear and taper. Inside mikes are graduated the same way as out-
side mikes and are read the same way as well.
Remember that an inside mike must be absolutely perpendicular to the work
being measured. When you measure with an inside mike, rock the mike gently
from side to side and tip it back and forth slightly so that you span the widest
part of the bore. Just to be on the safe side, take several readings. It takes acer-
tain amount of experience to work any mike with confidence.
Metric micrometers are read in the same way as inch micrometers, except
that the measurements are in millimeters. Each line on the main scale equals 1
04892P23 mm. Each fifth line is stamped 5, 10, 15, and so on. Each line on the thimble
Fig. 35 Vacuum gauges are useful for many diagnostic tasks includ- scale equals 0.01 mm. It will take a little practice, but if you can read an inch
ing testing of some fuel pumps mike, you can read a metric mike.
04892P25 05002P04
Fig. 36 In a pinch, you can also use the vacuum gauge on a hand Fig. 37 Outside micrometers can be used to measure the thickness
operated vacuum pump of shims or the outside diameter of a shaft

Calipers
• See Figures 38, 39 and 40
Inside and outside calipers are useful devices to have if you need to measure
something quickly and precise measurement is not necessary. Simply take the
reading and then hold the calipers on an accurate steel rule.
DIAL INDICATORS
• See Figure 41
A dial indicator is a gauge that utilizes a dial face and a needle to register
measurements. There is a movable contact arm on the dial indicator. When the
arms moves, the needle rotates on the dial. Dial indicators are calibrated to
show readings in thousandths of an inch and typically, are used to measure
end-play and runout on various parts.
Dial indicators are quite easy to use, although they are relatively expensive. A
variety of mounting devices are available so that the indicator can be used in a
number of situations. Make certain that the contact arm is always parallel to the
movement of the work bein_g measured. 05002P05
Fig. 40 ... and inside diameter measurements, usually to 0.001
inch accuracy
05002P05
Fig. 38 Calipers, such as this dial caliper, are the fast and easy way
to make precise measurements TCCS3805
Fig. 41 Here, a dial indicator is used to measure the axial clearance
(end play) of a crankshaft during a powerhead rebuilding procedure
TELESCOPING GAUGES
• See Figure 42
A telescope gauge is used during rebuilding procedures (NOT usually basic
maintenance) to measure the inside of bores. It can take the place of an inside
mike for some of these jobs. Simply insert the gauge in the hole to be measured
and lock the plungers after they have contacted the walls. Remove the tool and
measure across the plungers with an outside micrometer.
DEPTH GAUGES
• See Figure 43
A depth gauge can be inserted into a bore or other small hole to determine
exactly how deep it is. One common use for a depth gauge is measuring the
distance the piston sits below the deck of the block at top dead center. Some
outside calipers contain a built-in depth gauge so money can be saved by just
05002P06
buying one tool.
Fig. 39 Calipers can also be used to measure depth ...

TCCTIP02
Fig. 42 Telescoping gauges are used during powerhead rebuilding Fig. 43 Depth gauges are used to measure the depth of bore or
procedures to measure the inside diameter of bores other small holes
FASTENERS, MEASUREMENTS AND CONVERSIONS

...some retainers (such as stretch bolts or torque prevailing nuts) are
Bolts, Nuts and Other Threaded Retainers designed to deform when tightened or in use and should not be reused.
• See Figures 44, and 45 Whenever possible, we will note any special retainers which should be
replaced during a procedure. But you should always inspect the condition of a
Although there are a great variety of fasteners found in the modern boat retainer when it is removed and you should replace any that show signs of dam-
engine, the most commonly used retainer is the threaded fastener (nuts, bolts,
age. Check all threads for rust or corrosion whi~h can increase the torqu~ nec-
screws, studs, etc). Most threaded retainers may be reused, provided that they essary to achieve the desired clamp load for which that fastener was onginally
are not damaged in use or during the repair.
selected. Additionally, be sure that the driver surface of the fastener has not
POZIDRIVE PHILLIPS RECESS CLUTCH RECESS
INDENTED HEXAGON HEXAGON TRIMMED HEXAGON WASHER HEAD

TCCS1037
Fig. 44 Here are a few of the most common screw/bolt driver styles

In all cases, be absolutely sure you have selected the proper replacement.
Don't be shy, you can always ask the store clerk for help.
**WARNING
Be aware that when you find a bolt with damaged threads, you may
also find the nut or drilled hole ii was threaded into has also been
damaged. If this is the case, you may have to drill and tap the hole,
replace the nut or otherwise repair the threads. NEVER try to force a
replacement bolt to fit into the damaged threads.
Torque
Torque is defined as the measurement of resistance to turning or rotating. It
tends to twist a body about an axis of rotation. A common example of this
would be tightening a threaded retainer such as a nut, bolt or screw. Measuring
torque is one of the most common ways to help assure that a threaded retainer
has been properly fastened.
When tightening a threaded fastener, torque is applied in three distinct areas,
04892P26 the head, the bearing surface and the clamp load. About 50 percent of the mea-
Fig. 45 Thread gauges measure the threads-per-inch and the pitch sured torque is used in overcoming bearing friction. This is the friction between
of a bolt or stud's threads the bearing surface of the bolt head, screw head or nut face and the base mate-
rial or washer (the surface on which the fastener is rotating). Approximately 40
percent of the applied torque is used in overcoming thread friction. This leaves
been compromised by rounding or other damage. In some cases a driver sur- only about 10 percent of the applied torque to develop a useful clamp load (the
face may become only partially rounded, allowing the driver to catch in only one force which holds a joint together). This means that friction can account for as
direction. In many of these occurrences, a fastener may be installed and tight- much as 90 percent of the applied torque on a fastener.
ened, but the driver would not be able to grip and loosen the fastener again.
(This could lead to frustration down the line should that component ever need to Standard and Metric Measurements
be disassembled again).
If you must replace a fastener, whether due to design or damage, you must Specifications are often used to help you determine the condition of various
always be sure to use the proper replacement. In all cases, a retainer of the components, or to assist you in their installation. Some of the most common
same design, material and strength should be used. Markings on the heads of measurements include length (in. or cm/mm), torque (ft. lbs., inch lbs. or Nm)
most bolts will help determine the proper strength of the fastener. The same and pressure (psi, in. Hg, kPa or mm Hg).
material, thread and pitch must be selected to assure proper installation and In some cases, that value may not be conveniently measured with what is
safe operation of the vehicle afterwards. available in your toolbox. Luckily, many of the measuring devices which are
Thread gauges are available to help measure a bolt or stud's thread. Most available today will have two scales so Standard or Metric measurements may
part or hardware stores keep gauges avai Iable to help you select the proper easily be taken. If any of the various measuring tools which are available to you
size. In a pinch, you can use another nut or bolt for a thread gauge. If the do not contain the same scale as listed in your specifications, use the accompa-
bolt you are replacing is not too badly damaged, you can select a match by nying conversion factors to determine the proper value.
finding another bolt which will thread in its place. If you find a nut which The conversion factor chart is used by taking the given specification and
threads properly onto the damaged bolt, then use that nut to help select the multiplying it by the necessary conversion factor. For instance, looking at the
replacement bolt. If however, the bolt you are replacing is so badly damaged first line, if you have a measurement in inches such as "free-play should be 2
(broken or drilled out) that its threads cannot be used as a gauge, you might in." but your ruler reads only in millimeters, multiply 2 in. by the conversion
start by looking for another bolt (from the same assembly or a similar loca- factor of 25.4 to get the metric equivalent of 50.8mm. Likewise, if the specifica-
tion) which will thread into the damaged bolt's mounting. If so, the other bolt tion was given only in a Metric measurement, for example in Newton Meters
can be used to select a nut; the nut can then be used to select the replace- (Nm), then look at the center column first. If the measurement is 100 Nm, multi-
ment bolt. ply it by the conversion factor of 0.738 to get 73.8 ft. lbs.

CONVERSION FACTORS
LENGTH-DISTANCE
Inches (in.) x 25.4 = Millimeters (mm) x .0394 =Inches
Feet (ft.) x .305 = Meters (m) x 3.281 =Feet
Miles x 1.609 = Kilometers (km) x .0621 =Miles
VOLUME
Cubic Inches (in3) x 16.387 . = Cubic Centimeters x .061 = in3
IMP Pints (IMP pt.) x.568 = Liters (L) x 1.76 =IMP pt.
IMP Quarts (IMP qt.) x 1.137 = Liters (L) x .88 =IMP qt.
IMP Gallons (IMP gal.) x 4.546 = Liters (L) x.22 =IMP gal.
IMP Quarts (IMP qt.) x 1.201 = US Quarts (US qt.) x .833 =IMP qt.
IMP Gallons (IMP gal.) x 1.201 = US Gallons (US gal.) x .833 = IMP gal.
Fl. Ounces x 29.573 = Milliliters x .034 =Ounces
US Pints (US pt.) x .473 = Liters (L) x 2.113 =Pints
US Quarts (US qt.) x .946 = Liters (L) x 1.057 =Quarts
US Gallons (US gal.) x 3.785 = Liters (L) x .264 = Gallons
MASS-WEIGHT
Ounces (oz.) x 28.35 =Grams (g) x .035 =Ounces
Pounds (lb.) x .454 = Kilograms (kg) x 2.205 =Pounds
PRESSURE
Pounds Per Sq. In. (psi) x 6.895 = Kilopascals (kPa) x .145 =psi
Inches of Mercury (Hg) x .4912 =psi x 2.036 =Hg
Inches of Mercury (Hg) x 3.377 = Kilopascals (kPa) x .2961 =Hg
Inches of Water (H,O) x .07355 = Inches of Mercury x 13.783 = H,O
Inches of Water (H 20) x .03613 =psi x 27.684 = H,O
Inches of Water (H,O) x .248 = Kilopascals (kPa) x 4.026 = H,O
TORQUE
Pounds-Force Inches (in-lb) x .113 = Newton Meters (N·m) x 8.85 =in-lb
Pounds-Force Feet (ft-lb) x 1.356 = Newton Meters (N · m) x .738 =ft-lb
VELOCITY
Miles Per Hour (MPH) x 1.609 = Kilometers Per Hour (KPH) x .621 =MPH
POWER
Horsepower (Hp) x .745 = Kilowatts x l.34 = Horsepower
FUEL CONSUMPTION*
Miles Per Gallon IMP (MPG) x .354 = Kilometers Per Liter (Km/L)
Kilometers Per Liter (Km/L) x 2.352 =IMP MPG
Miles Per Gallon US (MPG) x .425 = Kilometers Per Liter (Km/L)
Kilometers Per Liter (Km/L) x 2.352 =US MPG
*It is common to covert from miles per gallon (mpg) to liters/100 kilometers (1/100 km), where mpg (IMP) x 1/100 km
= 282 and mpg (US) x 1/100 km = 235.
TEMPERATURE
Degree Fahrenheit (°F) = (°C x 1.8) + 32
Degree Celsius (°C) = (°F - 32) X .56
TCCS1044

ENGINE MAINTENANCE 3-2 DT20, DT25 AND DT30 3-22
SERIAL NUMBER IDENTIFICATION 3-2 IGNITION TIMING 3-22
2-STROKE OIL 3-2 THROTTLE LINKAGE
OIL RECOMMENDATIONS 3-2 ADJUSTMENT 3-22
FILLING 3-2 IDLE SPEED 3-22
LOWER UNIT 3-3 DT35 AND OT40 3-23
OIL RECOMMENDATIONS 3-3 IGNITION TIMING 3-23
DRAINING & FILLING 3-3 IDLE SPEED 3-25
FUEL FILTER 3-4 THROTTLE LINKAGE 3-26
RELIEVING FUEL SYSTEM DT55 AND DT65 3-26
PRESSURE 3-5 IGNITION TIMING 3-26
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 3-5 IDLE SPEED 3-26
FUEL/WATER SEPARATOR 3-6 THROTTLE LINKAGE 3-27
TRIM/TILT & PIVOT POINTS 3-6 DT75 AND DT85 3-29
INSPECTION & LUBRICATION 3-6 IGNITION TIMING 3-29
PROPELLER 3-7 _ CARBURETOR LINKAGE
BOAT MAINTENANCE 3-8 ADJUSTMENT 3-29
INSIDE THE BOAT 3-8 IDLE SPEED 3-29
FIBERGLASS HULLS 3-8 DT90 AND DT100 3-30
TRIM TABS, ANODES AND LEAD IGNITION TIMING 3-30
WIRES 3-8 CARBURETOR LINKAGE
BATTERY 3-9 ADJUSTMENT 3-30
CLEANING 3-10 IDLE SPEED 3-30
CHECKING SPECIFIC GRAVITY 3-10 DT115 AND DT140 3-30
BATTERY TERMINALS 3-11 IGNITION TIMING 3-30
BATTERY & CHARGING SAFETY CARBURETOR LINKAGE 3-31
PRECAUTIONS 3-11 IDLE SPEED 3-32
BATTERY CHARGERS 3-11 DT150, DT175, DT200 3-32
REPLACING BATTERY CABLES 3-12 IGNITION TIMING 3-32
TUNE-UP 3-12 CARBURETOR LINKAGE 3-32
INTRODUCTION 3-12 IDLE SPEED 3-32
TUNE-UP SEQUENCE 3-12 WINTER STORAGE CHECKLIST 3-35
COMPRESS/ON CHECK 3-12 SPRING COMMISSIONING
CHECKING COMPRESSION 3-12 CHECKLIST 3-35
LOW COMPRESS/ON 3-13 SPECIFICATIONS CHARTS
SPARK PLUGS 3-13 CAPACITIES 3-2
SPARK PLUG HEAT RANGE 3-13 CARBURETOR IDLE AIR SCREW
SPARK PLUG SERVICE 3-14 SPECIFICATION 3-33
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 3-14 TUNE UP SPECIFICATIONS
READING SPARK PLUGS 3-14 CHARTS 3-34
INSPECTION & GAPPING 3-15 GENERAL ENGINE
SPARK PLUG WIRES 3-17 - SPECIFICATIONS 3-38
TEST/ NG 3-17 SERIAL NUMBER
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 3-17 IDENTIFICATION 3-43
IGNITION SYSTEM 3-17
TIMING AND SYNCHRONIZATION 3-17
TIMING 3-17
SYNCHRONIZATION 3-17
PREPARATION 3-17
DT2 AND DT2.2 3-18
IGNITION TIMING 3-18
IDLE SPEED 3-19
DT4 3-19
IDLE SPEED 3-19
DT6 AND OTB 3-19
IDLE SPEED 3-20
DT9.9 AND DT15 3-21
IDLE SPEED 3-21

3-2 MAINTENANCE
ENGINE MAINTENANCE
chamber deposits, avoid detonation and prolong spark plug life. If Suzuki
Serial Number Identification CCI oil or a NMMA certified lubricant is unavailable, use only 2-stroke
outboard oil.
Suzuki uses engine serial numbers and models numbers for identification
purposes. These numbers are stamped on plates riveted to the port side .,. Remember, it is this oil, mixed with the gasoline that lubricates the
trans~m. bracket. or to th~ .starboard side of the support plate.
This information 1dent1f1es the specific engine and will indicate to the internal parts of the engine. Lack of lubrication due to the wrong mix or
owner or service technician if there are any unique parts or if any changes improper type of oil can cause catastrophic powerhead failure.
have been made to that particular model during its production run. The serial
and models number should be used any time you order replacement parts.
For more information, refer to the "Serial Number Identification" and the FILLING
"General Engine Specifications" charts at the end of this section.
There are two methods of adding 2-stroke oil to an outboard. The first is
the pre-mix method used on outboards up to 6 horsepower and on some
2-Stroke Oil commercial models. The second is the automatic oil injection method which
automatically injects the correct quantity of oil into the engine for all
operating conditions.
OIL RECOMMENDATIONS
t See Figures 1 and 2 Pre-Mix
Use only Suzuki CCI oil or NMMA (National Marine Manufacturers Mixing the engine lubricant with gasoline before pouring it into the tank is
Association) certified 2~stroke lubricants. These oils are proprietary lubricants by far the simplest method of lubrication for 2-stroke outboards. However
designed to ensure optimal engine performance and to minimize combustion this method is the most messy and causes the most amount of harm to o'ur
environment.
The most important part of filling a pre-mix system is to determine the
proper fuel/oil ratio. Most manufacturers use a 50:1 ratio (that is 50 parts of
fuel to 1 part of oil) or a 100:1 ratio. Consult your owners manual to
determine what the appropriate ratio should be for your engine.
The procedure itself is uncomplicated. Simply add the correct amount of
lubricant to your fuel.tank and then fill the tank with gasoline. The order in
which you do this 1s important because as the gasoline is poured into the fuel
tank it will mix with and agitate the oil for a complete blending.
If you are attempting to top off your tank, here is a general guideline to
determine how much oil to add. For three gallons of fuel you would add 4
ounces of oil to obtain a 100:1 ratio; 8 ounces of oil to obtain a 50:1 ratio and
16 ounces of oil to obtain a 25:1 ratio.
Oil Injection
Most outboard manufacturers use a mechanically driven oil pump
mounted on the engine block that is connected to the throttle by way of a
linkage arm.
Capacities
Injection Oil Lower Unit Fuel Tank
Fig. 1 2·St~oke out~oard oils are proprietary lubricants designed to
Model Quart (Liter) Oz (ml) Gal (Liter)
ensure optimal engine performance and to minimize combustion
chamber deposits, avoid detonation and prolong spark plug life DT2 PreMix 2.4(70) 0.3(1.2)
DT2.2 PreMix 2.4(70) 0.3(1.2)
DT4 PreMix 6.4(190) 0.7(2.6)
DT5Y Premix 6.4(190) 0.7(2.8)
DT6 Pre Mix 11.5(240) 6.3(24)
DT8 Pre Mix 11.5(240) 6.3(24)
DT9.9 2.3(2.1) 5.7(170) 6.3(24)
DT15 2.3(2.1) 5.7(170) 6.3(24)
DT20 2.3(2.1) 10.1(300) 6.3(24)
DT25 2.1(2.0) 7.8(230) 6.3(24)
DT30 2.1(2.0) 7.8(230) 6.3(24)
DT35 2.1(2.0) 20.6(610) 6.3(24)
DT40 2.1(2.0) 20.6(610) 6.3(24)
DT55 3.2(3.0) 22(650) 6.3(24)
DT65 3.2(3.0) 22(650) 6.3(24)
DT75 2.4(2.3) 23.7(700) 6.3(24)
DT85 2.4(2.3) 23.7(700) 6.3(24)
DT90 4.8(4.5) 18.9(560) 6.3(24)
DT100 4.8(4.5) 18.9(560) 6.3(24)
DT115 6.3(6.0) 37.2(1100) 6.3(24)
DT140 6.3(6.0) 37.2(1100) 6.3(24)
DT150 9.5(9.0) 35.5(1050) 6.3(24)
Fig. 2 This scuffed piston is an example of what can happen when DT175 9.5(9.0) 35.5(1050) 6.3(24)
the proper 2·stroke oil is not used. The outboard required a DT200 9.5(9.0) 35.5(1050) 6.3(24)
complete overhaul DT225 9.0(8.5) 35.5(1050)

MAINTENANCE 3-3
The system is powered by the crankshaft which drives a gear in the pump, cre-
ating oil pressure. As the throttle lever is advanced to increase engine speed,
the linkage arm also moves, opening a valve that allows more oil to flow into
the oil pump.
Most mechanical-injection systems incorporate low-oil warning alarms that
are also connected to an engine overheating sensor. Also, these systems may
have a built-in speed limiter. This sub-system is designed to reduce engine
speed automatically when oil problems occur. This important feature goes a
long way toward preventing severe engine damage in the event of an oil injec-
tion problem.
The procedure for filling these systems is simple. On each powerhead there
is an auxiliary oil reservoir which holds the 2-stroke oil. Simply fill the oil take
to the proper capacity.
,..II is highly advisable to carry several spare bottles of 2-stroke oil with
you onboard.
For more information on the oil injection system refer to the "Lubrication and
Cooling" section of this manual.
Lower Unit
Regular maintenance and inspection of the lower unit is critical for proper
operation and reliability. A lower unit can quickly fail if it becomes heavily cont-
aminated with water, or excessively low on oil. The most common cause of a
lower unit failure is water contamination.
Water in the lower unit is usually caused by fishing line, or other foreign mate-
rial, becoming entangled around the propeller shaft and damaging the seal. If the
line is not removed, it will eventually cut the propeller shaft seal and allow water to 04703P28
enter the lower unit. Fishing line has also been known to cut a groove in the pro- Fig. 4 Excellent view of rope and fishing line entangled behind the
peller shaft if left neglected over time. This area should be checked frequently.
propeller. Entangled fishing line can actually cut through the seal,
allowing water to enter the lower unit and lubricant to escape
OIL RECOMMENDATIONS
Use only Suzuki Outboard Motor Gear Oil or and equivalent high quality SAE
90 hypoid gear oil. These oils are proprietary lubricants designed to ensure
optimal performance and to minimize corrosion in the lower unit.
,..Remember, it is this lower unit lubricant that prevents corrosion and
lubricates the internal parts of the drive gears. Lack of lubrication due
to water contamination or the improper type of oil can cause cata-
strophic lower unit failure.
DRAINING & FILLING
t See accompanying illustrations
**CAUTION
The EPA warns that prolonged contact with used engine oil may
cause a number of skin disorders, including cancer! You should
make every effort to minimize your exposure to used engine oil.
Protective gloves should be worn when changing the oil. Wash your
hands and any other exposed skin areas as soon as possible after
exposure to used engine oil. SoaJJ and water, or waterless hand
cleaner should be used.
1. Place a suitable container under the lower unit.

2. Loosen the oil level plug on the lower unit. This step is important! If the
oil level plug cannot be loosened or removed, the complete lower unit lubricant
service cannot be performed.
,..Never remove the vent or filler plugs when the lower unit is hot.
Expanded lubricant will be released through the plug hole.
04703P10 3. Remove the fill plug from the lower end of the gear housing followed by
Fig. 3 This lower unit was destroyed because the bearing carrier the oil level plug.
was frozen due to lack of lubrication 4. Allow the lubricant to completely drain from the lower unit.

3-4 MAINTENANCE
05003P11 05003P12 05003P13
Step 2 Step 3 Step 4
,..If applicable, check the magnet end of the drain screw for metal 9. Pump kits are available from marine manufacturers such as Rapiar®.
particles. Some normal wear is to be expected, but if there are signs of 10. Using new gaskets, (washers) install the oil level and vent plugs (if
metal chips or excessive metal particles, the gear case needs to be dis- applicable) first, then install the oil fill plug.
assembled and inspected. 11. Place the used lubricant in a suitable container for transportation to an
authorized recycling station.
5. Inspect the lubricant for the presence of a milky white substance, water
or metallic particles. If any of these conditions are present, the lower unit should
be serviced immediately.
6. Place the outboard in the proper position for filling the lower unit. The
lower unit should not list to either port or starboard, and should be completely
vertical.
7. On smaller outboards, insert the lubricant tube into the oil drain hole at
the bottom of the lower unit, and squeeze lubricant until the excess begins to
come out the oil level hole.
8. On larger outboards, oil should be injected, to fill the gear case through
the drain plug.
Step 9
Fuel Filter
The fuel filter is designed to keep particles of dirt and debris from entering
the carburetor(s) and clogging the internal passages. A small speck of dirt or
sand can drastically affect the ability of the carburetor(s) to deliver the proper
amount of air and fuel to enter the engine. If a filter becomes clogged, the flow
of gasoline will be impeded. This could cause lean fuel mixtures, hesitation and
stumbling, and idle problems.
Regular replacement of the fuel filter will decrease the risk of blocking the
flow of fuel to the engine, which could leave you stranded on the water. Fuel fil-
ters are usually inexpensive, and replacement is a simple task. Change your fuel
filter on a regular basis to avoid fuel delivery problems to the carburetor.
In addition to the fuel filter mounted on the engine, a filter is usually found
inside or near the fuel tank (with the exception of DT2 and DT2.2 ). Because of the
large variety of differences in both portable and fixed fuel tanks, it is impossible to
give a detailed procedure for removal and installation. Most in-tank filters are sim-
ply a screen on the pick-up line inside the fuel tank. Filters of this type usually
only need to be cleaned and returned to service. Fuel filters on the outside of the
05003P27 tank are typically of the inline type, and are replaced by simply removing the
clamps, disconnecting the hoses, and installing a new filter. When installing the
Step 8 new filter, make sure the arrow on the filter points in the direction of fuel flow.

MAINTENANCE 3-5
5. After relieving the fuel pressure, remove the service check bolt and
replace the 6mm sealing washer with a new one. Tighten the service check bolt
to 9 ft. lbs. (12 Nm).
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
**CAUTION
Observe all applicable safety precautions when working around
fuel. Whenever servicing the fuel system, always work in a well-
ventilated area. Do not allow fuel spray or vapors to come in con-
tact with a spark or open flame. Do not smoke while working around
gasoline. Keep a dry chemical fire extinguisher near the work area.
Always keep fuel in a container specifically designed for fuel stor-
age; also, always properly seal fuel containers to avoid the possi-
bility of fire or explosion.
1. Remove the engine cover.

Fig. 5 Typical fuel filter mounting location 2. Locate the fuel filter in the engine pan.
3. Lift the fuel filter from the engine pan, and place a pan or clean rag
underneath it to absorb any spilled fuel.
4. Slide the hose retaining clips off the filter nipple with a pair of pliers and
disconnect the hoses from the filter.
5. Reinstall the hoses on the filter nipples of the new filter. Make sure the
embossed arrow on the filter points in the direction of fuel flow.
6. Slide the clips on each hose over the filter nipples.
7. Check the fuel filter installation for leakage by priming the fuel system
with the fuel line primer bulb.
8. Once it is confirmed that there is no leakage from the connections, place
the filter back to its proper position in the engine pan.
9. Replace the engine cover.
05003P04
Fig. 6 A clogged fuel filter resulted in a lean fuel mixture at speed
and caused the burn hole in the top of the piston. This powerhead
required a complete overhaul
RELIEVING FUEL SYSTEM PRESSURE
On fuel injected engines, always relieve system pressure prior to disconnect-

ing any fuel system component, fitting or fuel line.
**CAUTION
05003G02
Exercise extreme caution whenever relieving fuel system pressure
to avoid fuel spray and potential serious bodily injury. Please be Fig. 7 Thoroughly clean the filter element in solvent
advised that fuel under pressure may penetrate the skin or any part
of the body it contacts.
To avoid the possibility of fire and personal injury, always disconnect the
negative battery cable.
Always place a shop towel or cloth around the fitting or connection prior to
loosening to absorb any excess fuel due to spillage. Ensure that all fuel spillage
is removed from engine surfaces. Ensure that all fuel soaked clothes or towels
in suitable waste container.
2. Place a wrench on both the service check bolt and fitting nut to prevent
the fitting from twisting and breaking off. Pleasure market
Commercial market
3. Holding the service check bolt and fuel pressure check nut with both 05003G03
wrenches, place a shop towel or equivalent material over the service check bolt. Fig. 8 Be sure to mount the filter in the proper direction. The arrow
4. Loosen the service check bolt approximately one turn slowly to relieve on the filter (circled) indicates the direction of the flow of fuel
the fuel pressure.

3-6 MAINTENANCE
Check with the boat manufacturer or the marina who rigged the boat to get the
Fuel/Water Separator specifics of your particular fuel filtration system.
In addition to the engine and inline fuel filters, there is usually another filter Trim/Tilt & Pivot Points
located in the fuel supply line. This is the fuel/water separator. It is used to
remove water particles from the fuel prior to entering the engine or inline filter. INSPECTION & LUBRICATION
Water can enter the fuel supply from a variety of sources and can lead to poor
engine performance and ultimately, serious engine damage. •See Figures 11, 12 and 13
Because of the large variety of differences in both portable and fixed fuel
tanks, it is impossible to give a single procedure to cover all applications The steering head and other pivot points of the outboard-to-engine mounting
components need periodic lubrication with marine grade grease to provide
smooth operation and prevent corrosion. Usually, these pivot points are easily
lubricated by simply attaching a grease gun to the fittings.
If the engine is used in salt water, the frequency of applying lubricant is usu-
ally doubled in comparison to operation in fresh water. Due to the very corrosive
nature of salt water, an anti-seize thread compound should be used on all
exposed fasteners outside of the cowling to reduce the chance of them seizing
in place and breaking off when you try to remove them.
,..Rinsing off the engine after each use is a very good habit to get into,
not only does ii help preserve the appearance of the engine, ii virtually
eliminates the corrosive effects of operating in salt water.
05003P16
Fig. 11 The steering head ...
04703P38
Fig. 9 A water separating fuel filter installed inside the boat on the
transom
04893P76 05003P17
Fig. 10 A typical water separating fuel filter assembly ready to be Fig. 12 ... and steering tube both contain grease fillings which
installed on the boat should be lubricated regularly

MAINTENANCE 3-7
vibrations in the motor. Remove and inspect the propeller. Use a file to trim
nicks and burrs. Take care not to remove any more material than is absolutely
necessary.
Also, check the rubber and splines inside the propeller hub for damage. If
there is damage to either of these, take the propeller to your local marine dealer
or a "prop shop". They can evaluate the damaged propeller and determine if it
can be saved by rehubbing.
Additionally, the propeller should be removed each time the boat is hauled
from the water at the end of an outing. Any material entangled behind the pro-
peller should be removed before any damage to the shaft and seals can occur.
This may seem like a waste of time, but the small amount of time involved in
removing the propeller is returned many times by reduced maintenance and
repair, including the replacement of expensive parts.
05003P18
Fig. 13 Due to the very corrosive nature of salt water, some sort of
anti-seize type thread compound should be used on all exposed fas-
teners outside of the cowling to reduce the chance of them seizing
in place
Propeller
t See Figures 14, 15 and 16
The propeller should be inspected regularly to be sure the blades are in good
condition. If any of the blades become bent or nicked, this condition will set up
04703P41
Fig. 15 A block of wood inserted between the propeller and the anti-
cavitation plate will prevent the propeller from turning while the nut
is being removed or installed
04703P27
Fig. 14 An application of anti-seize on the propeller shall splines
will prevent the propeller from seizing on the shaft and facilitate Fig. 16 Once the propeller nut and washer is removed, the propeller
easier removal for the next service can be removed by sliding it off the shall

3-8 MAINTENANCE
BOAT MAINTENANCE
set. When the hull sustains a severe blow, the impact will be either absorbed by
Inside The Boat deflection of the laminated panel or the blow will result in a definite, localized
• See Figure 17 break. In addition to hull damage, bulkheads, stringers, and other stiffening
structures attached to the hull may also be affected and therefore, should be
The following points may be lubricated with an all purpose marine lubricant: checked. Repairs are usually confined to the general area of the rupture.
• Remote control cable ends next to the hand nut. DO NOT over-lubricate
~The best way to care for a fiberglass hull is to wash it thoroughly,
the cable
immediately after hauling the boat while the hull is still wet.
• Steering arm pivot socket
• Exposed shaft of the cable passing through the cable guide tube A fouled bottom can seriously affect boat performance. This is one reason
• Steering link rod to steering cable why racers, large and small, both powerboat and sail, are constantly giving
attention to the condition of the hull below the waterline.
In areas where marine growth is prevalent, a coating of vinyl, anti-fouling
bottom paint should be applied. If growth has developed on the bottom, it can
be removed with a solution of Muriatic acid applied with a brush or swab and
then rinsed with clear water. Always use rubber gloves when working with Muri-
atic acid and take extra care to keep it away from your face and hands. The
fumes are toxic. Therefore, work in a well-ventilated area, or if outside, keep
your face on the windward side of the work.
Barnacles have a nasty habit of making their home on the bottom of boats
which have not been treated with anti-fouling paint. Actually they will not harm
the fiberglass hull, but can develop into a major nuisance.
If barnacles or other crustaceans have attached themselves to the hull, extra
work will be required to bring the bottom back to a satisfactory condition. First,
if practical, put the boat into a body of fresh water and allow it to remain for a
few days. A large percentage of the growth can be removed in this manner. If
this remedy is not possible, wash the bottom thoroughly with a high-pressure
fresh water source and use a scraper. Small particles of hard shell may still hold
fast. These can be removed with sandpaper.
Trim Tabs, Anodes and Lead Wires

Fig. 17 Use only a good quality marine grade grease for lubrication
• See Figures 21 thru 28
Check the trim tabs and the anodes (zinc). Replace them, if necessary. The
Fiberglass Hulls trim tab must make a good ground inside the lower unit. Therefore, the trim tab
and the cavity must not be painted. In addition to trimming the boat, the trim tab
•See Figures 18, 19 and 20 acts as a zinc electrode to prevent electrolysis from acting on more expensive
parts. It is normal for the tab to show signs of erosion. The tabs are inexpensive
Fiberglass reinforced plastic hulls are tough, durable, and highly resistant to and should be replaced frequently.
impact. However, like any other material they can be damaged. One of the Clean the exterior surface of the unit thoroughly. Inspect the finish for dam-
advantages of this type of construction is the relative ease with which it may be age or corrosion. Clean any damaged or corroded areas, and then apply primer
repaired. Because of its break characteristics, and the simple techniques used in and matching paint.
restoration, these hulls have gained popularity throughout the world. From the Check the entire unit for loose, damaged, or missing parts.
most congested urban marina, to isolated lakes in wilderness areas, to the An anode is attached across both clamp brackets. It also serves as protec-
severe cold of far off northern seas, and in sunny tropic remote rivers of primi- tion for the coil of hydraulic hoses beneath the trim/tilt unit between the brack-
tive islands or continents, fiberglass boats can be found performing their daily ets.
task with a minimum of maintenance. Lead wires provide good electrical continuity between various brackets which
Afiberglass hull has almost no internal stresses. Therefore, when the hull is might be isolated from the trim tab by a coating of lubricant between moving
broken or stove-in, it retains its true form. It will not dent to take an out-of-shape parts.
04892P04
SELSTKOO Fig. 20 Fiberglass, vinyl and rubber care
SELSTK55
Fig. 18 In areas where marine growth is a products, such as those available from
problem, a coating of anti-foul bottom Fig. 19 The best way to care for a fiber- Meguiar's are available to protect every
paint should be applied glass hull is to wash it thoroughly part of your boat

MAINTENANCE 3-9
04703P08
Fig. 22 Such extensive erosion of a trim tab compared with a new
tab suggests an electrolysis problem or complete disregard for peri-
Fig. 21 What a trim tab should look like when it's in good condition odic maintenance
05003P23
Fig. 24 ... other types of anodes are 05003P20
Fig. 23 Although many outboards use the also used throughout the outboard, like Fig. 25 . . and this one on the lower
trim tab as an anode . . . this one on the stern bracket . . . unit
04891P03 05003P22
Fig. 26 Anodes installed in the water Fig. 27 Most anodes are easily removed Fig. 28 One of the many lead wires used
jacket of a powerhead provide added pro- by loosening and removing their attaching to connect bracketed parts. Lead wires are
tection against corrosion fasteners used as an assist in reducing corrosion
complete check up of the electrical system in your boat at the beginning of the
Battery boating season is a wise move. Continued regular maintenance of the battery
Difficulty in starting accounts for almost half of the service required on boats will ensure trouble free starting on the water.
each year. A survey by Champion Spark Plug Company indicated that roughly A complete battery service procedure is included in the "Maintenance" sec-
one third of all boat owners experienced a "won't start" condition in a given tion of this manual. The following are a list of basic electrical system service
year. When an engine won't start, most people blame the battery when, in fact, it procedures that should be performed as part of any tune-up.
may be that the battery has run down in a futile attempt to start an engine with • Check the battery for solid cable connections
other problems. • Check the battery and cables for signs of corrosion damage
Maintaining your battery in peak condition may be though of as either tune- • Check the battery case for damage or electrolyte leakage
up or maintenance material. Most wise boaters will consider it to be both. A • Check the electrolyte level in each cell

3-10 MAINTENANCE
• Check to be sure the battery is fastened securely in position
• Check the battery's state of charge and charge as necessary
• Check battery voltage while cranking the starter. Voltage should remain
above 9.5 volts
• Clean the battery, terminals and cables
• Coat the battery terminals with dielectric grease or terminal protector
Batteries which are not maintained on a regular basis can fall victim to para-
sitic loads (small current drains which are constantly drawing current from the
battery). Normal parasitic loads may drain a battery on boat that is in storage
and not used frequently. Boats that have additional accessories with increased
parasitic load may discharge a battery sooner. Storing a boat with the negative
battery cable disconnected or battery switch turned oil will minimize discharge
due to parasitic loads.
CLEANING
Keep the battery clean, as a film of dirt can help discharge a battery that is
not used for long periods. A solution of baking soda and water mixed into a
TCCA1P07
paste may be used for _cleaning, but be careful to flush this oil with clear water.
Fig. 29 On non-maintenance free batteries with translucent cases,
,_Do not let any of the solution into the filler holes on non-sealed bat- the electrolyte level can be seen through the case; on other types
teries. Baking soda neutralizes battery acid and will de-activate a bat- (such as the one shown), the cell cap must be removed
tery cell.
CHECKING SPECIFIC GRAVITY
The electrolyte fluid (sulfuric acid solution) contained in the battery cells will
tell you many things about the condition of the battery. Because the cell plates
must be kept submerged below the fluid level in order to operate, maintaining
the fluid level is extremely important. In addition, because the specific gravity of
the acid is an indication of electrical charge, testing the fluid can be an aid in
determining ii the battery must be replaced. A battery in a boat with a properly
operating charging system should require little maintenance, but careful, peri-
odic inspection should reveal problems before they leave you stranded.
**CAUTION
Battery electrolyte contains sulfuric acid. If you should splash any
on your skin or in your eyes, flush the affected area with plenty of
clear water. If it lands in your eyes, get medical help immediately.
As stated earlier, the specific gravity of a battery's electrolyte level can be used
as an indication of battery charge. At least once a year, check the specific gravity
of the battery. It should be between 1.20 and 1.26 on the gravity scale. Most
parts stores carry a variety of inexpensive battery testing hydrometers. These can
be used on any non-sealed battery to test the specific gravity in each cell.
Conventional Battery
• See Figures 29 and 3ll
A hydrometer is required to check the specific gravity on all batteries that are
not maintenance-free. The hydrometer has a squeeze bulb at one end and a noz-
zle at the other. Battery electrolyte is sucked into the hydrometer until the float
or pointer is lifted from its seat. The specific gravity is then read by noting the
position of the float/pointer. II gravity is low in one or more cells, the battery
should be slowly charged and checked again to see if the gravity has come up.
Generally, ii after charging, the specific gravity of any two cells varies more than
50 points (0.50), the battery should be replaced, as it can no longer produce
suflicient voltage to guarantee proper operation.
04703P37
Check the battery electrolyte level at least once a month, or more often in hot
weather or during periods of extended operation. Electrolyte level can be checked Fig. 30 The best way to determine the condition of a battery is to
either through the case on translucent batteries or by removing the cell caps on test the specific gravity of the electrolyte with a battery tester
opaque-case types. The electrolyte level in each cell should be kept filled to the
split ring inside each cell, or the line marked on the outside of the case.
II the level is low, add only distilled water through the opening until the level Maintenance-Free Batteries
is correct. Each cell is separate from the others, so each must be checked and
filled individually. Distilled water should be used, because the chemicals and • See Figure 31
minerals found in most drinking water are harmful to the battery and could sig- Although some maintenance-free batteries have removable eel I caps for
nificantly shorten its life. access to the electrolyte, the electrolyte condition and level is usually checked
If water is added in freezing weather, the battery should be warmed to allow using the built-in hydrometer "eye". The exact type of eye varies between battery
the water to mix with the electrolyte. Otherwise, the battery could freeze. manufacturers, but most apply a sticker to the battery itself explaining the pas-

MAINTENANCE 3-11
BATIERY TOP BATIERY TOP BATTERY TOP
DARKENED DARKENED
INDICATOR 1NDICATOR
@
WITH GREEN DOT HO GREEN DOT UG!fl YELLO'W
OR BRIGH"T
INDICATOR,
NO GREEN DOT
MAT If JUM,. ST.OTED 00 NOT JUMP ST ART
Check the appearance of the charge Indicator on

Location of Indicator on sealed battery top of the battery before attempting e jump start; If
It's not green or dark, do not tump start the car
TCCS1253
Fig. 31 A typical sealed (maintenance-free) battery with a built-in hydrometer-note that the hydrometer eye may vary between manufacturers;
always refer to the battery's label
sible readings. When in doubt, refer to the battery manufacturer's instructions to 4. When lifting a battery, use a battery carrier or lift at opposite corners of
interpret battery condition using the built-in hydrometer. the base.
The readings from built-in hydrometers may vary, however a green eye usu- 5. Ensure there is good ventilation in a room where the battery is being
ally indicates a properly charged battery with sufficient fluid level. A dark eye is charged.
normally an indicator of a battery with sufficient fluid, but one that may be low 6. Do not attempt to charge or load-test a maintenance-free battery when the
in charge. In addition, a light or yellow eye is usually an indication that elec- charge indicator dot is indicating insufficient electrolyte.
trolyte supply has dropped below the necessary level for battery (and hydrome- 7. Disconnect the negative battery cable if the battery is to remain in the
ter) operation. In this last case, sealed batteries with an insufficient electrolyte boat during the charging process.
level must usually be discarded. 8. Be sure the ignition switch is OFF before connecting or turning the
charger ON. Sudden power surges can destroy electronic components.
BATTERY TERMINALS 9. Use proper adapters to connect charger leads to batteries with non-con-
ventional terminals.
At least once a season, the battery terminals and cable clamps should be
cleaned. Loosen the clamps and remove the cables, negative cable first. On bat- BATTERY CHARGERS
teries with top mounted posts, the use of a puller specially made for this pur-
pose is recommended. These are inexpensive and available from most auto • See Figure 32
parts stores. Before using any battery charger, consult the manufacturer's instructions for
Clean the cable clamps and the battery terminal with a wire brush, until all its use. Battery chargers are electrical devices that change Alternating Current
corrosion, grease, etc., is removed and the metal is shiny. It is especially impor- (AC) to a lower voltage of Direct Current (DC) that can be used to charge a
tant to clean the inside of the clamp thoroughly (a wire brush is useful here), marine battery. There are two types of battery chargers-manual and auto-
since a small deposit of foreign material or oxidation there will prevent a sound matic.
electrical connection and inhibit either starting or charging. It is also a good
idea to apply some dielectric grease to the terminal, as this will aid in the pre-
vention of corrosion.
After the clamps and terminals are clean, reinstall the cables, negative cable
last; Do not hammer the clamps onto battery posts. Tighten the clamps securely,
but do not distort them. Give the clamps and terminals a thin external coating of
grease after installation, to retard corrosion.
Check the cables at the same time that the terminals are cleaned. If the insu-
lation is cracked or broken, or if its end is frayed, that cable should be replaced
with a new one of the same length and gauge.
BATTERY & CHARGING SAFETY PRECAUTIONS
Always follow these safety precautions when charging or handling a battery.

1. Wear eye protection when working around batteries. Batteries contain
corrosive acid and produce explosive gas a byproduct of their operation. Acid
on the skin should be neutralized with a solution of baking soda and water
made into a paste. In case acid contacts the eyes, flush with clear water and
seek medical attention immediately.
2. Avoid flame or sparks that could ignite the hydrogen gas produced by the
90991P34
battery and cause an explosion. Connection and disconnection of cables to bat-
tery terminals is one of the most common causes of sparks. Fig. 32 Automatic battery chargers, like the Battery Tender® from
3. Always turn a battery charger OFF, before connecting or disconnecting Deltran, have an important advantage-they can stay connected to
the leads. When connecting the leads, connect the positive lead first, then the your battery for extended periods without the possibility of over-
negative lead, to avoid sparks. charging

3-12 MAINTENANCE
A manual battery charger must be physically disconnected when the battery REPLACING BATTERY CABLES
has come to a lull charge. II not, the battery can be overcharged, and possibly
fail. Excess charging current at the end of the charging cycle will heat the elec- Battery cables don't go bad very often, but like anything else, they can wear out.
trolyte, resulting in loss of water and active material, substantially reducing bat-
II the cables on your boat are cracked, frayed or broken, they should be replaced.
tery life.
When working on any electrical component, it is always a good idea to dis-
_.As a rule, on manual chargers, when the ammeter on the charger reg- connect the negative(-) battery cable. This will prevent potential damage to
isters half the rated amperage of the charger, the battery is fully many sensitive electrical components
charged. This can vary, and it is recommended to use a hydrometer to Always replace the battery cables with one of the same length, or you will
accurately measure state of charge. increase resistance and possibly cause hard starting. Coat the battery posts with
a light film of dielectric grease, or a battery terminal protectant spray once
Automatic battery chargers have an important advantage-they can be left you've installed the new cables. II you replace the cables one at a time, you
connected (for instance, overnight) without the possibility of overcharging the won't mix them up.
battery. Automatic chargers are equipped with a sensing device to allow the bat-
tery charge to taper off to near zero as the battery becomes fully charged. When _.Any time you disconnect the battery cables, it is recommended that
charging a low or completely discharged battery, the meter will read close to lull you disconnect the negative (-) battery cable first. This will prevent you
rated output. II only partially discharged, the initial reading may be less than full from accidentally grounding the positive (+)terminal when disconnect-
rated output, as the charger responds to the condition of the battery. As the bat- ing it, thereby preventing damage to the electrical system.
tery continues to charge, the sensing device monitors the state of charge and
Before you disconnect the cable(s), first turn the ignition to the OFF position.
reduces the charging rate. As the rate of charge tapers to zero amps, the charger
This will prevent a draw on the battery which could cause arcing. When the bat-
will continue to supply a few milliamps of current-just enough to maintain a
tery cable(s) are reconnected (negative cable last), be sure to check all electrical
charged condition.
accessories are all working correctly.
TUNE-UP
The following list is a suggested sequence of tasks to perform during a tune-
Introduction up.
A proper tune-up is the key to long and trouble-free engine life, and the work • Perform a compression check of each cylinder.
can yield its own rewards. Studies have shown that a properly tuned and main- • Inspect the spark plugs to determine their condition. Test for adequate
tained engine can achieve better fuel mileage than an out-of-tune engine. As a spark at the plug.
conscientious boater, set aside a Saturday morning, say once a month, to check or • Start the engine in a body of water and check the water flow through the
replace items which could cause major problems later. Keep your own personal engine.
log to jot down which services you performed, how much the parts cost you, the • Check the gear oil in the lower unit.
date, and the number of hours on the engine at the time. Keep all receipts for such • Check the carburetor adjustments and the need for an overhaul.
items as engine oil and filters, so that they may be referred to in case of related • Check the fuel pump for adequate performance and delivery.
problems or to determine operating expenses. As a do-it-yourseller, these receipts • Make a general inspection of the ignition system.
are the only proof you have that the required maintenance was performed. In the • Test the starter motor and the solenoid, ii so equipped.
event of a warranty problem, these receipts will be invaluable. • Check the internal wiring.
The efficiency, reliability, fuel economy and enjoyment available from engine • Check the timing and synchronization.
performance are all directly dependent on having your outboard tuned properly.
The importance of performing service work in the proper sequence cannot be Compression Check
over emphasized. Before making any adjustments, check the specifications.
Never rely on memory when making critical adjustments. Cylinder compression test results are extremely valuable indicators of inter-
Before beginning to tune any engine, ensure the engine has satisfactory nal engine condition. The best marine mechanics automatically check an
compression. An engine with worn or broken piston rings, burned pistons, or engine's compression as the first step in a comprehensive tune-up. Obviously, it
scored cylinder walls, will not perform properly no matter how much time and is useless to try to tune an engine with extremely low or erratic compression
expense is spent on the tune-up. Poor compression must be corrected or the readings, since a simple tune-up will not cure the problem.
tune-up will not give the desired results. The pressure created in the combustion chamber may be measured with a gauge
A practical maintenance program that is fol lowed throughout the year, is one that remains at the highest reading it measures during the action of a one-way valve.
of the best methods of ensuring the engine will give satisfactory performance. This gauge is inserted into the spark plug hole. Acompression test will uncover
As they say, you can spend a little time now or a lot of time later. many mechanical problems that can cause rough running or poor performance.
The extent of the engine tune-up is usually dependent on the time lapse II the powerhead shows any indication of overheating, such as discolored or
since the last service. A complete tune-up of the entire engine would entail scorched paint, inspect the cylinders visually through the transfer ports for pos-
almost all of the work outlined in this manual. However, this is usually not nec- sible scoring. It is possible for a cylinder with satisfactory compression to be
essary in most cases. scored slightly. Also, check the water pump. A faulty water pump may cause the
In this section, a logical sequence of tune-up steps will be presented in gen- overheating condition.
eral terms. II additional information or detailed service work is required, refer to
the section containing the appropriate instructions. CHECKING COMPRESSION
Each year higher compression ratios are built into modern outboard engines
and the electrical systems become more complex. Therefore, the need for reli- • See Figures 33, 34 and 35
able, authoritative, and detailed instructions becomes more critical. The infor-
mation in this section will fulfill that requirement. Prepare the engine for a compression test as follows:
1. Run the engine until it reaches operating temperature. II the test is per-
formed on a cold engine, the readings will be considerably lower than normal,
Tune-Up Sequence even ii the engine is in perfect mechanical condition.
During a major tune-up, a definite sequence of service work should be fol- 2. Label and disconnect the spark plug wires. Always grasp the molded cap
lowed to return the engine its maximum performance level. This type of work and pull it loose with a twisting motion to prevent damage to the connection.
should not be confused with troubleshooting (attempting to locate a problem 3. Clean all dirt and foreign material from around the spark plugs, and then
when the engine is not performing satisfactorily). In many cases, these two remove all the plugs. Keep them in order by cylinder for later evaluation.
areas will overlap, because many times a minor or major tune-up will correct 4. Ground the spark plug leads to the engine to render the ignition system
the malfunction and return the system to normal operation. inoperative while performing the compression check.

MAINTENANCE 3-13
05003P26
04702 04
04702P02 Fig. 34 All spark plugs should be P Fig. 35 Crank the engine with the starter
Fig. 33 Removing the high tension lead. grounded while making compression through at least 4 complete strokes with
Always use a twist and pull motion on the tests. this action will prevent placing an the throttle at the wide-open position, to
boot to prevent damage to the wire extra load on the ignition coil obtain the highest possible reading
5. Insert a compression gauge into the No. 1, top, spark plug opening.
6. Crank the engine with the starter through at least 4 complete strokes with
Spark Plugs
the throttle at the wide-open position, to obtain the highest possible reading. t See Figure 36
Then record the reading.
7. Repeat the test and record the compression for each cylinder. Spark plug life and efficiency depend upon the condition of the engine and
8. A variation between cylinders is far more important than the actual read- the combustion chamber temperatures to which the plug is exposed. These tem-
ings. A variation of more than 15 psi (103 kPa), between cylinders indicates the peratures are affected by many factors, such as compression ratio of the engine,
lower compression cylinder is defective. Not all engines will exhibit the same air/fuel mixtures and the type of normally placed on your engine.
compression readings. In fact, two identical engines may not have the same Factory installed plugs are, in a way, compromise plugs, since the factory
compression. Generally, the rule of thumb is that the lowest cylinder should be has no way of knowing what typical loads your engine will see. However, most
within 25% of the highest (difference between the two readings). people never have reason to change their plugs
9. If compression is low in one or more cylinders, the problem may be
worn, broken, or sticking piston rings, scored pistons or worn cylinders.
LOW COMPRESSION
Compression readings that are generally low indicate worn, broken, or stick-
ing piston rings, scored pistons or worn cylinders, and usually indicate an
engine that has a lot of hours on it. Low compression in two adjacent cylinders
(with normal compression in the other cylinders) indicates a blown head gasket
between the low-reading cylinders. Other problems are possible (broken ring,
hole burned in a piston), but a blown head gasket is most likely.
A conventional compression check will only show secondary compression
readings and not primary crankcase compression. If there is an air leak in the
crankcase, this will cause insufficient fuel to be brought into the crankcase and
cylinder for normal operation. If it is a small leak, the powerhead will run poorly,
because the fuel mixture will be too lean, and cylinder temperatures will be hot- 04702P05
ter than normal.
Fig. 36 Damaged spark plugs. Notice the broken electrode on the
Air leaks are possible around any seal, 0-ring, cylinder block mating surface,
or gasket surface. Always replace 0-rings, gaskets and seals when service work left plug. The electrode must be found and retrieved prior to return-
has been preformed. If the powerhead is running poorly, spray soapy water on ing the powerhead to service
the suspected sealing surface and look for bubbles to form, indicating an air
leak. The base of the powerhead and the lower crankshaft seal are impossible to
check in this manner, and will need to be checked by another method, a SPARK PLUG HEAT RANGE
crankcase pressure test
To pressure test the crankcase, make up adapters to fit the carburetor mount- t See Figure 37
ing studs. Into one adapter fit an air fitting, which will accept a hand pump, Spark plug heat range is the ability of the plug to dissipate heat. The longer
which is used for testing the lower unit. With the powerhead on the bench, place the insulator (or the farther it extends into the engine), the hotter the plug will
some rubber gasket material over the exhaust, leaving the water passages open. operate; the shorter the insulator {the closer the electrode is to the block's cool-
Using the hand pump, pressurize the crankcase to 5 psi. ing passages) the cooler it will operate. A plug that absorbs little heat and
Spray soapy water around the lower crankcase seal area and other seals and remains too cool will quickly accumulate deposits of oil and carbon since it is
gasket sealing surfaces looking for telltale bubbles. Also, if possible, pull a vac- not hot enough to burn them off. This leads to plug fouling and consequently to
uum in the crankcase to check the seals in the opposite direction and watch for misfiring. A plug that absorbs too much heat will have no deposits but, due to
a pressure drop.
the excessive heat, the electrodes will burn away quickly and might possibly

3-14 MAINTENANCE
3. Using compressed air (and safety glasses), blow debris from the spark
plug well to assure that no harmful contaminants are allowed to enter the com-
THE SHORTER THE LONGER bustion chamber when the spark plug is removed. If compressed air is not
THE PATH. THE THE PATH. THE
FASTER THE
available, use a rag or a brush to clean the area. Compressed air is available
SLOWER THE
HEAT IS DIS- HEAT IS DIS- from both an air compressor or from compressed air in cans available at pho-
SIPATED ANO SIPATED ANO tography stores.
THE COOLER THE HOTTER
THE PLUG THE PLUG •Remove the spark plugs when the engine is cold, if possible, to pre-
vent damage to the threads. If plug removal is difficult, apply a few
drops of penetrating oil to the area around the base of the plug, and
allow it a few minutes to work.
4. Using a spark plug socket that is equipped with a rubber insert to prop-
erly hold the plug, turn the spark plug counterclockwise to loosen and remove
HEAVY LOADS. SHORT TRIP the spark plug from the bore.
HIGH SPEEDS STOP-ANO-GO
SHORT Insulator Top LONG Insulator Tip **WARNING

Fasl Heat T1ans!er Slow Heat Transfer
LOWER Heat Range HIGHER Heat Range Avoid the use of a flexible extension on the socket. Use of a flexible
COLO PLUG HOT PLUG
TCCS1046
extension may allow a shear force to be applied to the plug. A
shear force could break the plug off in the cylinder head, leading to
costly and frustrating repairs. In addition, be sure to support the
ratchet with your other hand-this will also help prevent the socket
Fig. 37 Spark Plug heat range
from damaging the plug.
Evaluate each cylinder's performance by comparing the spark condition.

lead to pre-ignition or other ignition problems. Pre-ignition takes place when Check each spark plug to be sure they are all of the same manufacturer and
plug tips get so hot that they glow sufficiently to ignite the air/fuel mixture have the same heat range rating. Inspect the threads in the spark plug opening
before the actual spark occurs. This early ignition will usually cause a pinging of the block, and clean the threads before installing the plug.
during heavy loads. When purchasing new spark plugs, always ask the dealer if there has been a
spark plug change for the engine being serviced.
SPARK PLUG SERVICE Crank the engine through several revolutions to blow out any material
which might have become dislodged during cleaning. Always use a new gas-
•New technologies in spark plug and ignition system design have ket (if applicable). The gasket must be fully compressed on clean seats to
pushed the recommended replacement interval to every 100 hours of complete the heat transfer process and to provide a gas tight seal in the cylin-
operation (6 months). However, this depends on usage and conditions. der.
This holds true unless internal engine wear or damage cause plug foul- 5. Inspect the spark plug boot for tears or damage. If a damaged boot is
ing. If you suspect this, you may wish to remove and inspect the plugs found, the spark plug boot and possible the entire wire will need replace-
before the recommended time. ment.
6. Apply a thin coating of anti-seize on the thread of the plug. This is
Spark plugs should only require replacement once a season. The electrode extremely important on aluminum head engines.
on a new spark plug has a sharp edge, but with use, this edge becomes 7. Carefully thread the plug into the bore by hand. If resistance is felt
rounded by wear, causing the plug gap to increase. As the gap increases, the before the plug completely bottomed, back the plug out and begin threading
plug's voltage requirement also increases. It requires a greater voltage to jump again.
the wider gap and about two to three times as much voltage to fire a plug at
high speeds than at idle. **WARNING
Tools needed for spark plug replacement include: a ratchet, short extension,
spark plug socket (there are two types; either 1¥16 inch or% inch, depending Do not use the spark plug socket to thread the plugs. Always care-
upon the type of plug), a combination spark plug gauge and gapping tool, and a fully thread the plug ilyiland or using an old plug wire to prevent
can of penetrating oil or anti-seize type grease for engines with aluminum the possibility of crossthreading and damaging the cylinder head
heads. bore.
When removing spark plugs, work on one at a time. Don't start by remov-
ing the plug wires all at once, because unless you number them, they may 8. Carefully tighten the spark plug. If the plug you are installing is equipped
become mixed up. Take a minute before you begin and number the wires with with a crush washer, seat the plug, then tighten to 10-15 ft. lbs. (14-20 Nm) or
tape. about 1/4 turn to crush the washer. Whenever possible, spark plugs should be
tightened to the factory torque specification.
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 9. Apply a small amount of silicone dielectric compound to the end oi
the spark plug lead or inside the spark plug boot to prevent sticking, then
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable, and if the engine has been run install the boot to the spark plug and push until it clicks into place. The
recently, allow the engine to thoroughly cool. Attempting to remove plugs from click may be felt or heard. Gently pull back on the boot to assure proper
a hot cylinder head could cause the plugs to seize and damage the threads in contact.
the cylinder head. Especially on aluminum heads!
2. Carefully twist the spark plug wire boot to loosen it, then pull the boot READING SPARK PLUGS
using a twisting motion and remove it from the plug. Be sure to pull on the boot
and not on the wire, otherwise the connector located inside the boot may • See Figures 38 thru 44
become separated. Your spark plugs are the single most valuable indicator of your engines inter-
•A spark plug wire removal tool is recommended as it will make nal condition. Study your spark plugs carefully every time you remove them.
removal easier and help prevent damage to the boot and wire assem- Compare them to illustrations shown to identify the most common plug condi-
bly. tions.

MAINTENANCE 3-15
TCCS2137
TCCS2136 Fig. 40 A physically damaged spark plug
Fig. 39 A carbon-fouled plug, identified by may be evidence of severe detonation in
TCCS2135 soft, sooty black deposits, may indicate an that cylinder. Watch that cylinder carefully
Fig. 38 A normally worn spark plug should improperly tuned vehicle. Check the air between services, as a continued detona-
have light tan or gray deposits on the fir- cleaner, ignition components and the tion will not only damage the plug, but
ing tip (electrode) engine control system. could also damage the engine
TCCS2139
TCCS2138 Fig. 42 This spark plug has been left in the TCCS2140
Fig. 41 An oil-fouled spark plug indicates engine too long, as evidenced by the Fig. 43 A bridged or almost bridged spark
an engine with worn piston rings and/or extreme gap-Plugs with such an extreme plug, identified by the build-up between
bad valve seals allowing excessive oil to gap can cause misfiring and stumbling the electrodes caused by excessive carbon
enter the combustion chamber accompanied by a noticeable lack of power or oil build-upon the plug
INSPECTION & GAPPING because the reading may be inaccurate. A round-wire type gapping tool is the
best way to check the gap. The correct gauge should pass through the electrode
Check spark plug gap before installation. The ground electrode (the L-shaped gap with a slight drag. If you're in doubt, try a wire that is one size smaller and
one connected to the body of the plug) must be parallel to the center electrode and one larger. The smaller gauge should go through easily, while the larger one
the specified size wire gauge must pass between the electrodes with a slight drag. shouldn't go through at all.
Always check the gap on new plugs as they are not always set correctly at the Wire gapping tools usually have a bending tool attached. Use this tool to
factory. Do not use a flat feeler gauge when measuring the gap on a used plug, adjust the side electrode until the proper distance is obtained. Never attempt to

3-16 MAINTENANCE
Tr•cking Arc Wide Gap

High voltage arcs Spark plug electrodes
between a fouling are worn so that the
deposit on the high voltage charge
insulator tip and cannot arc across the
spark plug shell. This electrodes. Improper
ignites the fuel/air gapping of electrodes
mixture at some on new or ·c1eaned·
point along the spark plugs could
insulator tip. cause a similar
retarding the ignition condition. Fuel
timing which causes remains unburned
a power and fuel and a power loss
loss. results.
A•shover Fouled Sp•rk Plug

A damaged spark Deposits that have
plug boot along with formed on the
dirt and moisture. insulator tip may
could permit the high become conductive
voltage charge to and provide a
short over the -shunt" path to the
insulator to the spark shell. This prevents
plug shell or the 1he high voltage from
engine. A buttress arcing between the
insulator design electrodes. A power
helps prevent high and fuel loss is the
voltage flashover. result.
Bridged Electrodes
Fouling deposits
Crack&d Insulator
A crack in the spark
between the
plug insulator could
electrodes ·ground
out• the high voltage cause the high
voltage charge to
needed to fire the
"groJnd out.· Here.
spark plug. The arc
the spark does not
between the
electrodes does not jump the electrode
occur and the fuel air gap and the fuel air
mixture is not mixture is not
ignited. This causes a ignited. This causes a
power loss and power loss and raw
exhausting of raw fuel is exhausted.
fuel.
TCCS201A
Fig. 44 Typical spark plug problems showing damage which may indicate engine problems

MAINTENANCE 3-17
bend the center electrode. Also, be careful not to bend the side electrode too far operating. An alternate method is to check the static timing-with the powerhead
or too often as it may weaken and break off within the engine, requiring removal not operating. This second method requires the use of a dial indicator gauge.
of the cylinder head to retrieve it. Various models have unique methods of checking ignition timing. These dif-
ferences are explained in detail later in this section.
Spark Plug Wires SYNCHRONIZATION
TESTING In simple terms, synchronization is timing the fuel system to the ignition. As
the throttle is advanced to increase powerhead rpm, the carburetor and the igni-
At every tune-up/inspection, visually check the spark plug wires for burns, tion systems are both advanced equally and at the same rate.
cuts, or breaks in the insulation. Check the boots on the coil and at the spark Any time the fuel system or the ignition system on a powerhead is serviced
plug. Replace any wire that is damaged. to replace a faulty part or any adjustments are made for any reason, powerhead
Once a year, usually when you change your spark plugs, check the resistance timing and synchronization must be carefully checked and verified. For this rea-
of the spark plug wires with an ohmmeter. Wires with excessive resistance will son the timing and synchronizing procedures have been separated from all oth-
cause misfiring and may make the engine difficult to start. In addition worn ers and presented alone in this section.
wires will allow arcing and misfiring in humid conditions. Before making adjustments with the timing or synchronizing, the ignition
Remove the spark plug wire from the engine. Test the wires by connecting system should be thoroughly checked and the fuel system verified to be in good
one lead of the ohmmeter to the coil end of the wire and the other lead to the working order.
spark plug end of the wire. Resistance should measure approximately 7000 On the breaker point ignitions, synchronization is automatic once the point
ohms per foot of wire. gap and the piston travel or timing mark alignments are correct.
When installing a new set of spark plug wires, replace the wires one at a time Models equipped with electronic ignitions are statically timed by aligning the
so there will be no confusion. Coat the inside of the boots with dielectric grease timing marks on the throttle cam or throttle stopper with timing marks on the
to prevent sticking. Install the boot firmly over the spark plug until it clicks into flywheel. Initial timing and timing advance are both set this way before using a
place. The click may be felt or heard. Gently pull back on the boot to assure timing light to check the timing.
proper contact. Route the wire the same as the original and install it in a similar Before making adjustments with the timing or synchronizing, the ignition
manner on the engine. Repeat the process for each wire. system should be thoroughly checked and the fuel system verified to be in good
working order.
PREPARATION
When installing a new set of spark plug wires, replace the wires one at a time
so there will be no confusion. Coat the inside of the boots with dielectric grease Timing and synchronizing the ignition and fuel systems on an outboard
to prevent sticking. Install the boot firmly over the spark plug until it clicks into motor are critical adjustments. The following equipment is essential and is
place. The click may be felt or heard. Gently pull back on the boot to assure called out repeatedly in this section. This equipment must be used as described,
proper contact. Route the wire the same as the original and install it in a similar unless otherwise instructed by the equipment manufacturer. Naturally, the
manner on the engine. Repeat the process for each wire. equipment is removed following completion of the adjustments.
Suzuki also recommends the use of a test wheel instead of a normal pro-
peller in order to put a load on the engine and propeller shaft. The use of the
Ignition System test wheel prevents the engine from excessive rpm.
The electronic COi ignition system has become one of the most reliable The Synchronizing of the fuel systems on an outboard motor are critical
components on the modern outboard engine. There is very little maintenance adjustments. The following equipment is essential and is called out repeatedly
involved in the operation of the ignition and even less to repair if the component in this section. This equipment must be used as described, unless otherwise
fails. Most systems are sealed and there is no option other than to replace the instructed by the equipment manufacturer. Naturally, the equipment is removed
failed component. following completion of the adjustments.
It is very important to narrow down the ignition problem and replace the cor-
rect component rather than just replace parts hoping to solve the problem. Elec- Dial Indicator
tronic components can be very expensive and are usually not returnable. Please
refer to the "Ignition and Electrical" Section for more information on trouble- Top dead center (TDC) of the No. 1 (top) piston must be precisely known
shooting and repairing the CDI ignition system. before the timing adjustment can be made. TDC can only be determined through
installation of a dial indicator into the No. 1 spark plug opening.
Timing And Synchronization Timing Light

During many procedures in this section, the timing mark on the flywheel
TIMING must be aligned with a stationary timing mark on the engine while the power-
head is being cranked or is running. Only through use of a timing light con-
Timing and synchronization on an outboard engine is extremely important to nected to the No. 1 spark plug lead, can the timing mark on the flywheel be
obtain maximum efficiency. The powerhead cannot perform properly and pro- observed while the engine is operating.
duce its designed horsepower output if the fuel and ignition systems have not
been precisely adjusted. Tachometer
All units covered in this manual except those equipped with the Integrated
Circuit (IC) and Micro Link Ignition System, are equipped with a mechanical A tachometer connected to the powerhead must be used to accurately deter-
advance type Capacitor Discharge Ignition (COi) system and use a series of link mine engine speed during idle and high-speed adjustment. Engine speed read-
rods between the carburetor and the ignition base plate assembly. At the time ings range from 0 to 6,000 rpm in increments of 100 rpm. Choose a
the throttle is opened, the ignition base plate assembly is rotated by means of tachometers with solid state electronic circuits which eliminates the need for
the link rod, thus advancing the timing. relays or batteries and contribute to their accuracy.
On the IC and Micro Link equipped models, the microcomputer decides Atachometer is installed as standard equipment on most powerheads covered
when to advance or retard the timing, based on input from various sensors. in this manual. Due to local conditions, it may be necessary to adjust the carbure-
Therefore, there is no link rod between the magneto control lever and the stator tor while the outboard unit is running in a test tank or with the boat in a body of
assembly. water. For maximum performance, the idle rpm should be adjusted under actual
Many models have timing marks on the flywheel and COi base. A timing light operating conditions. Under such conditions it might be necessary to attach a
is normally used to check the ignition timing dynamically-with the powerhead tachometer closer to the powerhead than the one installed on the control panel.

3-18 MAINTENANCE
Flywheel Rotation
The instructions may call for rotating the flywheel until certain marks are
aligned with the timing pointer. When the flywheel must be rotated, always move
the flywheel in the indicated direction. If the flywheel should be rotated in the
opposite direction, the water pump impeller vanes would be twisted.
\
Should the powerhead be started with the pump tangs bent back in the wrong
direction, the tangs may not have time to bend in the correct direction before
they are damaged. The least amount of damage to the water pump will affect
cooling of the powerhead.
Test Tank
Since the engine must be operated at various times and engine speeds dur-
ing some procedures, a test tank or moving the boat into a body of water, is
04707G19
necessary. If installing the engine in a test tank, outfit the engine with an appro-
priate test propeller. Fig. 46 Measure the breaker point gap using a feeler gauge
**CAUTION
Water must circulate through the lower unit to the powerhead any-
time the powerhead is operating to prevent damage to the water
pump in the lower unit. Just five seconds without water will damage
the water pump impeller.
~Remember the powerhead will not start without the emergency tether
in place behind the kill switch knob.
**CAUTION
Never operate the powerhead above a fast idle with a flush attach-
ment connected to the lower unit. Operating the powerhead at a A: Decreasing gap B: Increasing gap
high rpm with no load on the propeller shaft could cause the power- 04707G20
head to runaway causing extensive damage to the unit. Fig. 47 Using a screwdriver, adjust the breaker point gap by rotating
the points
DT2 and DT2.2

IGNITION TIMING
• See Figures 45, 46, 47 and 48

1. Mount the engine in a test tank or move the boat to a body of water.
2. Remove the cowling and connect a tachometer to the powerhead.
3. Remove the flywheel.
4. Remove the spark plug.
5. Disconnect the magneto lead (usually white) from the connector and the
stator lead (usually black) from the connector.
~Before checking the ignition timing, make sure that the contact
point faces are in good condition. Sand and make parallel the two
05003G05
faces by grinding with an oil stone if necessary and wipe the points
Fig. 48 Remove the spark plug and install the dial indicator to mea-
clean with solvent. Apply a small dab of grease to the breaker
shaft. sure the piston travel
6. Check and adjust the breaker point gap to 0.012-0.016 in. (0.3-0.4
mm) by moving the breaker base plate.
7. Install a dial indicator with a special adapter (09931-00112) in the spark
plug hole.
8. Rotate the flywheel clockwise until the piston has reached TDC then
reset the indicator to zero.
9. Connect an ohmmeter between the magneto wire and a good engine
Bad Bad ground. A timing tester (09900-27003) can also be used.
10. Gently turn the rotor clockwise (with the tester turned on) until the ohm-
meter indicates continuity or the timing tester starts buzzing. Read the dial indi-
cator, this reading is the piston travel and if the timing is set correctly, the
indicator should read: 0.032 in. (0.804 mm).
If the reading is not within specification, retime the ignition system as fol-
Good
lows:
05003G04 11. Remove the flywheel magneto, loosen the screws securing the stator,
and manually turn the stator clockwise to retard and counterclockwise to
Fig. 45 Check the condition of the points before selling the point gap advance the timing by the amount necessary to meet specification.

MAINTENANCE 3-19
• If the correct gap cannot be obtained by adjustment, the points 5. Ignition timing is about: 7°BTDC at 1000 rpm and 24-25°BTDC at
should be replaced. 5000 rpm. For more details, please refer to the Tune-Up Specifications chart.
6. Timing cannot be adjusted. If timing is incorrect, a fault has occurred
IDLE SPEED in the CDI system and a test of the CDI unit needs to be performed.
t See Figure 49 IDLE SPEED

1. Mount the engine in a test tank or move the boat to a body of water. t See Figure 51
3. Start the engine and allow it to reach operating temperature. 1. Mount the engine in a test tank or move the boat to a body of water.
4. Check idle speed and compare it with the specified idle speed in the 2. Remove the cowling and connect a tachometer to the powerhead.
'Tune-Up Specifications" chart. 3. Start the engine and allow it to warm to operating temperature.
5. If adjustment is necessary, rotate the idle adjustment screw on the 4. Turn the air screw (1) in until it lightly seats and then back it out
carburetor until the powerhead idles at the required rpm. gradually. The engine will pick up speed correspondingly and then cease to
rise. Set the air screw slightly before this point. See the "Idle Air Screw
Specifications" chart for the base setting.
5. Shift the clutch into the forward position.
6. Run the throttle stop screw (2) in and out until the correct engine
speed is reached. Idle speed specifications are :Ocated in the "Tune-Up
Specifications" chart.
1. Idle speed screw

Fig. 49 To raise or lower the idle, turn the throttle stop screw
DT4 and DT5Y 1. Air screw

2. Throttle stop screw
IGNITION TIMING
Fig. 51 Air screw and throttle stop screw-DT4 and DT5Y
t See Figure 50
The DT4 and DT5Y ignition system is a magneto CDI which provides high DT6 and DT8
spark performance regardless of engine rpm. The electronic advance system
provides optimum ignition timing for all conditions. Ignition timing is not IGNITION TIMING
adjustable. Each coil is not provided with any base plate for installation, but
instead is constructed so that the coil itself can be mounted directly to the t See Figures 52, 53, 54, 55 and 56
boss projected from the cylinder or crankcase. If the coils are installed in the
correct position, the ignition timing will be within specification. The DT6 and DT8 models use the Suzuki PEI simultaneous ignition
1. Mount the engine in a test tank or move the boat to a body of water. system. The ignition timing is advanced in this system by moving the
2. Remove the cowling and connect a tachometer and a timing light to magneto stator according to the carburetor throttle opening.
the powerhead. The Suzuki PEI system is maintenance free because of the absence of
3. Start the engine and allow it to warm to operating temperature. Place breaker points. It produces a strong spark over a wide range of engine
the engine in gear. speeds from idle to wide open throttle.
4. Aim the timing light at the timing window and the pointer on the recoil The CD! unit which is integral with the ignition coil is compact and easy to
starter should line up with the timing mark on the rotor. handle.
1. Mount the engine in a test tank or the boat in a body of water.
2. Remove the cowling and connect a tachometer and timing light to the
powerhead.
Rotor assy • Magneto Stator Assembly
The stator base moves according to the throttle opening to obtain the
correct ignition timing. For this reason, brass is cast in the spigot joint of the
oil seal housing and the stator base. Parts of the stator base include a coil
which charges a capacitor of the CD! unit, a pulser coil which sends a signal
to the CD! unit at ignition timing, and a lighting coil which generates lighting
output of 12V and SOW.
• Setting the static ignition timing
Bring the face of the retainer stopper in line with the alignment mark of
Ignition Timing Match Mark the magneto stator and fix the retainer stopper with bolts. When the end face
[7 lines stamped at the of the stopper retainer is aligned with the boss of the cylinder center, ignition
positions from T (TDC) to 30° timing is -2°-+2°(no advance angle).
BTDC at intervals of 5°] a. For the full-advance angle, adjust the length of the stator rod so that
the throttle arm contacts the inlet case-side stopper. Now the ignition timing
Fig. 50 Ignition timing marks on the flywheel-DT4 and DT5Y is 23-27°BTDC (full advance angle).

3-20 MAINTENANCE
1. Stator arm
2. Throttle arm
05003809 05003810
Fig. 52 Align the end of the retainer stopper (1) with the stator Fig. 53 Adjust the length of the stator rod so that the throttle arm
alignment mark (2) contacts the inlet case side stopper
Advance angle is
a" ± 2" when the
No advance (TDC) Full advance125° BTDC)

05003811 05003812
05003813
Fig. 54 Correct position of the retainer Fig. 55 With the throttle fully closed, lim- Fig. 56 Fully open the throttle, liming
stopper against the boss of the cylinder ing mark should be like this (no advance marks should line up this (full advance
center TDC)-OT6 and OTB 25°BTDC) - OT6 and OTB
5. Checking the ignition timing (dynamic adjustment). To check ignition tim- 2. Remove the cowling and connect a tachometer to the powerhead.
ing, warm up the engine for about 5 minutes. Then check if the cylinder center 3. Start the engine and allow it to warm to operating temperature.
line is in line with the mark engraved beside the letter 'T on the flywheel with 4. Turn the air screw in until it lightly seats and then back it out gradually.
the throttle fully closed. If the marks in line, the engine piston is at TDC. Next The engine will pick up speed correspondingly and then cease to rise. Set the
fully open the throttle. If the cylinder center line is within the range bounded by air screw slightly before this point. See the "Idle Air Screw Specifications" chart
the three mark lines engraved on the flywheel, the piston is within 2°of 25°BTDC. for the base setting.
5. Shift the clutch into the forward position.
IDLE SPEED 6. Run the throttle stop screw in and out until the correct engine speed is
reached. Idle speed specifications are located in the "Tune-Up Specifications"
t See Figures 57 and 5B chart.
05003815
05003814
Fig. 5B With the engine in forward gear, adjust the throttle stop
Fig. 57 Adjust the pilot air screw the specified turns open screw to the correct position

MAINTENANCE 3-21
electric start model has a ring gear attached to the outer edge while the manual
DT9.9 and DT15 start model does not. The flywheel has 4 engraved lines marked in 2°increments
from 4°ATDC to 2°BTDC and 6 engraved lines marked in 2 °increments from
IGNITION TIMING 17°BTDC to 27°BTDC. These marks are used in conjunction with a timing light
to inspect and adjust the ignition timing.
• See Figures 59, 60, 61, 62 and 63 The static ignition timing adjustment is performed as follows:
• With the engine shut down, fully close the throttle. Contact the projection
The DT9.9 and DT15 are equipped with a single ignition coil for both end surface of the magneto stator retainer to the inner side surface of the throttle
cylinders and uses a mechanical advance system that changes the ignition cam. Thus adjust the setting marks of both parts so that they align with each
timing by interlocking the stator to the carburetor opening. The CD! unit and other. Loosen the two cam set-screws and move the cam so that the stator-side
the ignition coil are integrated to make the size compact and maintenance and cam-side setting marks align.
easier.
• The stator is made up of the ignition coil and a 12v 80w battery charge •On the DT9.9 make sure to lighten the cam stopper screw after adjust-
coil mounted on the aluminum base plate. ing.
• The flywheel is constructed of cast iron and incorporates a tetra-pole. The • The maximum retard timing is 0°-4°ATDC at 650 rpm. Maximum
advance timing is 16.5°-20.5°BTDC at 5000 rpm for the DT9.9 and
23°-27°BTDC at 5000 rpm for the DT15.
Dynamic ignition timing adjustment:
• Start and warm up the engine for about 5 minutes.
• Shift the clutch to neutral and keep the engine speed to 650 rpm.
• Ignition timing is indicated by the timing arrow attached to the side of the
recoil starter pointing at any of the lines engraved on the outer surface of the
flywheel.
• Using a timing light, make sure the timing arrow remains within a range
of Q -4°ATDC at 650 rpm. If not, the timing must be adjusted to align the tim-
0
ing marks.
IDLE SPEED

05003G16
Fig. 59 Flywheel ignition liming marks 2. Remove the cowling and connect a tachometer to the powerhead.
1. Th rattle cam
05003G19
05003G18
05003G17
Fig. 60 Static adjustment alignment marks Fig. 61 Throttle cam adjustment Fig. 62 DT15 Maximum advance position
1. Cam stopper screw

05003G20
05003G21
Fig. 63 Cam stopper screw on the DT9.9 Fig. 64 Adjust the pilot air screw to the specified turns out

3-22 MAINTENANCE
THROTTLE LINKAGE ADJUSTMENT
• See Figure 66
1. Loosen the throttle lever adjusting screws on the top and 3rd carburetors.
Then turn the plates counterclockwise to ensure full they're at the full closed
throttle position. Hold the plates and tighten the screws.
2. Adjust the lever link rod to an initial length of 3.0 in. (75.5 mm) between
the center holes in each connector.
3. At the full closed throttle position, the throttle lever arm must be against
the stop boss on the block and a clearance of 0.02-0.06 in. (0.5-1.5 mm) must
exist at this point. If the clearance is not correct, recheck the carburetor throttle
valves and make sure that they are in the full closed position and recheck the
throttle rod length. Readjust if necessary.
05003G22 4. Check the synchronization of all three carburetors to make sure they fully
open and close.
Fig. 65 Adjust the engine speed by turning the throttle stop screw
~Always adjust the throttle linkage alter adjusting the oil pump link-
age.
3. Turn the pilot air screw in until it lightly seats and then back it out the
number of turns listed in the "Idle Air Screw Specifications" chart.
4. Start the engine and allow it to warm to operating temperature. Place the
engine in gear.
5. Set the throttle lever to the full closed position.
6. Adjust the engine speed to the specification listed in the ''Tune-Up Speci-
fications" chart by turning the throttle stop screw.
~Make sure that the choke valve on the carburetor is in the full open
position before adjusting the idle speed.
DT20, DT25 and DT30

IGNITION TIMING
This model uses the Suzuki IC (Integrated Circuit) ignition control to main-
tain precise spark timing for better power and acceleration.
A built in IC control unit monitors the degree of throttle opening and the
engine rpm, it then determines the ideal spark timing. This not only improves
acceleration, but by maintaining optimum carburetion and ignition synchro-
nization the engine runs smoother and responds to throttle changes much
quicker.
Since the ignition timing is controlled according to the opening of the
throttle, it is not affected by any change in the engine speed.
For easier starting, every time the engine started, the ignition timing auto-
matically advances to 5°BTDC for 15 seconds, after which time the ignition tim-
ing will return to the idle speed circuit and what ever position the "Idle Speed
Adjustment Switch" is set at.
~Due the higher rpm of this setting, do not shift gears until the rpm's 05003G23
have returned to the idle setting.
Fig. 66 Throttle linkage measurement positions
The idle speed ignition timing can be changed between 5 positions by means
of the "Idle Speed Adjustment Switch" when the carburetor throttle valves are in
the full closed position. IDLE SPEED
The ignition timing range of this switch is 9°ATDC when it is in the slow
position and 1°ATDC in the fast position. Each position of the switch repre-
sents a 50 rpm change. When the throttle valve is in the full closed position,
ignition timing is returned automatically to the timing of the "Idle Speed
3. Start the engine and allow it to warm to operating temperature. Place the
Adjustment Switch". This guarantees that the engine rpm will return to idle
automatically. engine in gear.
To further assure the exact ignition timing, a gear counter coil measures fly- 4. Check engine speed at idle. The powerhead should idle in at the rpm
wheel position and relays this information to the CDI unit. specified in the Tune-up Specifications chart.
5. Turn the pilot screw in until it lightly seats and then back it out the num-
~The "Idle Speed Adjustment Switch" is the only means of adjusting ber of turns specified in the "Idle Air Screw Specifications" chart.
the engine trolling speed. 6. Place the engine in gear and check engine trolling speed in the same
manner.

MAINTENANCE 3-23
7. Turn the idle speed adjusting knob to adjust the idle speed to the specifi-
cation listed in the "Tune-Up Specifications chart.
~The engine trolling speed has been factory adjusted to the optimum
speed. Trolling speed varies depending on boat type, weather conditions,
propeller type and other variables. Adjustment can only be done with the
engine in the water so there is back pressure against the exhaust sys-
tem.
DT35 and DT40

IGNITION TIMING
•See Figures 67, 68 and 69

In these engines, a 2-cylinder simultaneous ignition CD! system has been
adopted. The component parts of the ignition system are a magneto and CD!
unit. The CD! unit contains the ignition coil. The ignition timing characteristics
are made up of the advance angle of the magneto itself and the advance angle
of stator sliding. An electronic advance system employing IC has been adopted
in the advance angle of the magneto itself to assure highly precise ignition
characteristics. The CD! unit also includes the over-rev limiter and oil warning
circuit.
The total 27°ignition timing is the result of the combination of magneto and A. Timing marks
CD! unit that produces the 7°electrical advance angle shown in the illustration 05003G37
and the 20°advance angle when the magneto stator slides.
Fig. 68 Timing marks on the flywheel assembly
When the flywheel rotates, electromotive force is generated in the condenser
charge coil and causes the current output from the positive side to flow from
the condenser charge coil to the diode to the condenser to the ignition coil
where it then charges the condenser charge coil. Next, when the timing coil +20
and the flywheel magneto pole piece position become opposed, output is gen-
erated in the timing coil, resulting in the current flow from the timing coil to
the diode to the SCR gate to ground, causing the SCR to change over from
+10
00
,.._ ........
OFF to ON. -10 I
Ql
"ii
c
-20 I
"'
I»
-30 I
.--------@ u
c -40 I
"'>
"O -50 I
<
CD--__,.~........,
-60 I
ILI~2't"-
I _70 I
1 000 2000 3000 4000 5000 6000
- - - Engine rpm
05003G38
Fig. 69 The total ignition timing is the result of the combination of
magneto and CDI unit that produces the electrical advance angle
shown
The electrical charge in the previously charged condenser flows from the
condenser to the SCR to ground then to the ignition coil primary side and
causes high voltage to be induced in the ignition coil secondary side causing
the spark to jump across the spark plug gap. Since this is a simultaneous igni-
tion system, both cylinders fire at the same time irregardless of which cylinder
is firing.
® © This type of ignition system has flat wave characteristics up to 1,000 rpm.
When engine speed rises above 1,000 rpm, the output of the arithmetic circuit
1. Condenser charge coil built into the IC advances ahead of the output of the timing coil which starts the
angle advance.
2. Stator assy Up to 2,500 rpm, the advance angle increases in a designated ratio
3. Timing coil corresponding to the engine rpm. When above this rpm, the angle advance
4. Lighting coil stops and exhibits a nearly flat wave characteristic. The advance angle of
05003G36
the magneto itself is 7°but in actuality, while mechanically sliding the mag-
neto stator 20°, a total of 27°(ATDC 2°- BTDC 25°) advance angle is real-
Fig. 67 Ignition system components-DT40 ized.

3-24 MAINTENANCE
Static Adjustment the arrow mark (V) so as to contact the throttle cam (2) and tighten the screw
(10) at this condition.
MAXIMUM ADVANCE SIDE
MAXIMUM RETARD SIDE
• See accompanying illustration
1. Place shill lever into the Forward 1st notch.
To adjust the ignition timing without starting the engine, proceed as follows 2. Align the mark (B) on the magneto stator and the cylinder-to-
while referring to the accompanying illustration: crankcase fitting surface (C) with each other. Turn the adjust bolt (5) so that
1. Shilt the clutch into forward gear. the adjust bolt cap (4) contacts the crankcase-side stopper (D), and fix it by
2. Put the throttle in the wide lull open position. the nut (6).
3. Keep this condition to align the mark (A) on the magneto stator (1) and 3. Move the throttle limiter (1) toward the direction (W) until hitting against
the cylinder-to-crankcase fitting surface (C) with each other. the undercover-side stopper (F) and check to see whether the carburetor can be
4. Keep this condition to loosen the screws (9) on the throttle cam (2) fully opened at this condition.
toward the direction indicated by the arrow mark (S) until contacting the 4. If the carburetor cannot be fully opened, adjust the rod (7) for the proper
crankcase side stopper (E), and fix the cam by tightening the screws (9) at this length and fix it by the nut (8). The rod (7) should have a standard length of
position. 4.25 in. (108 mm).
5. Still keep this position to loosen the screw (10) on the carburetor, open 5. Adjust the throttle cable so that the stator can be fully opened and closed
the carburetor link toward the direction indicated by the arrow mark (T) fully hit- (DT40C/DT40CE).
ting against the opponent, move the rotor (U) toward the direction indicated by
05003G40
Static timing adjustment reference points

MAINTENANCE 3-25
Dynamic adjustment
I
I
**CAUTION I
,/
Before this adjustment, start the engine and warm it up for about 5 /
minutes. Before starting this adjustment, be sure to remove the ./' "
,."
throttle rod (11).
FULL ADVANCED IGNITION TIMING ADJUSTMENT

• See accompanying illustrations
)
1. Shift the clutch to forward.
,•
/
2. To check the full-advanced ignition timing, keep the engine running at
1,000 rpm and move the throttle limiter (1) to the full advanced position (W).
05003G43
**WARNING Step 5
This procedure is required to check the ignition timing while the
engine is running at 5,000 rpm, but this method is very dangerous
and here is an alternative method in which the ignition timing is FULL RETARDED IGNITION ADJUSTMENT
advanced by hand with the engine running less than 1,000 rpm. 1. Shift the clutch to Neutral and keep the engine speed at 1,000 rpm.
2. Ignition timing is indicated by the timing arrow attached on the side of
3. Keep the throttle limiter (1) in this position. the recoil starter pointing at any of the lines engraved on the outer surface of the
4. Check that the timing plate points to 18.5°BTDC, using a timing light. flywheel.
3. Using a timing light, make sure the timing arrow remains within a range
of 2°plus or minus 1°ATDC at 1,000 rpm. If not, the ignition timing must be
readjusted.
4. To retard the timing, loosen the lock nut and turn the adjusting screw
counterclockwise. To advance the timing, turn the adjusting screw clockwise.
5. After the timing has been adjusted correctly, tighten the lock nut.
IDLE SPEED
**CAUTION .
Before this adjustment is made, be sure to check the ignition timing
and adjust it as needed. Start and thoroughly warm up the engine
05003G41 for about 5-minutes.
Step 3
1. Using the access holes in the air silencer, insert a screwdriver to the car-
buretor, and turn in the pilot air screw all the way in until it lightly seats, and
then back it out the number of turns specified in the "Idle Air Screw Specifica-
tions" chart.
**CAUTION
Be extra cautious to not tighten the air screw too much. It will dam-
age the screw and seat.
2. Place the shift lever (or remote control) in the first notch of Forward gear.
3. Keeping the engine in this condition, turn the carburetor-side throttle
05003G42
Step 4
,.When this method is used as a substitute, the ignition timing should

be set at 18.5°BTDC at 1,000 rpm, but in actual operation, the ignition
timing will be 18°BTDC at 5,000 rpm, showing a time lag of 0.5°. The
actual ignition timing is 25°BTDC, this being the result of 7°of advance
by the magneto and 18°of advance caused by sliding the stator.
5. If the ignition timing is off 18.5°BTDC, loosen the two screws (1) and
move throttle cam (2) to right and left as shown in the illustration to adjust.
05003G44
After adjusting, tighten the screws (1) securely.
6. After adjustment, install the throttle rod to the original position. Step 3

3-26 MAINTENANCE
screw. This will allow you to adjust the engine speed to the specification located modification, the in gear idle timing with the throttle fully returned is kept at a
in the "Tune-Up Specifications" chart. constant 6°ATDC.
,..Make sure that the choke valve on the carburetor is in the full-open ,..The engine rpm at trolling speed has been factory set at approxi-
position. mately 700 rpm. The trolling speed varies depending on boat type,
weather conditions, propeller types and other variables. Adjust the
THROTTLE LINKAGE trolling speed with the idle speed adjusting switch to obtain the desired
engine speed.
• See Figure 70 • Advance Stop Mechanism. When closing the throttle valve fully, an idle
The rod length can be determined by measuring the two throttle rods. The switch "1" is "ON" in conjunction with the carburetor and regardless of the
lengths should measure as follows: engine rpm, the trolling ignition timing can be obtained. Therefore, by returning
• Dimension "A" 4.25 in. (108 mm) the throttle valve to its fully closed position during high speed travel, the boat's
• Dimension "B'' 1.77 in. (45 mm) speed can be decreased suddenly.
Measure the rods between the connectors. • Acceleration Advance Mechanism. This device is available to increase
1. Turn the throttle grip (or remote control lever) to the full open position engine rpm quickly during sudden acceleration. When an acceleration switch
and turn the shaft lever "C" to the full open position until the stopper "D" con- "2" is "ON" in cooperation with the carburetor, the ignition timing of the basic
tacts the protrusion on the carburetor. The lock the lever in position with the advance characteristic "2" is quickened to the ignition timing of the acceleration
lock screw. advance characteristic "C"
• Throttle Valve Switch and Cam. As the throttle valve moves, a cam fitted
**CAUTION to the end of the throttle valve shalt moves accordingly to put the roller of the
throttle valve switch in motion. By moving the roller, the switch is turned ON
After making the above adjustment, move the throttle grip to check and OFF sending a signal to the CDI unit where the ignition timing is changed.
for smooth throttle operation. When the throttle valve is fully closed, the idle switch "1" is "ON" and the accel-
eration switch is "OFF". Once the throttle valve is opened, the idle switch "1" is
"OFF" and the acceleration switch "2" is "ON"
On the DT55 and DT65, the working angles at which the idle switch and
acceleration switch turn "On" and "OFF" differ from each other. Therefore, two
dillerent cams have been developed, one being for thew DT55 and the other for
the DT65. They can be told apart by the dillerent markings on them. The numer-
als on the cams denote the angle until the switch is "OFF" "C" from the vertical
line "A" and an angle until the acceleration switch is "ON" "D" from the vertical
line "A"
rI
IDLE SPEED
I 1. On the carburetor, turn the pilot air screw all the way in until it lightly
® seats and then back it out the number of turns specified in the "Idle Air Screw
2. Place the remote control lever forward gear (idle).
3. Turn the idle speed adjusting switch, and adjust the idle speed to the
specification listed in the "Tune-Up Specifications" chart.
,..Make sure the choke valve is in the fully open position.
05003G39
Fig. 70 Throttle linkage adjustment dimensions-DT35 and DT40
DT55 and DT65

IGNITION TIMING

The DT55 and DT65 use the Suzuki IC (integrated circuit) ignition system.
Ignition timing adjustment is not necessary on models equipped with these
ignition systems with the exception of adjusting the throttle valve sensor. They
are equipped with the following features:
• Engine Start Advance Mechanism. This feature ensures easy engine start-
ing by automatically advancing the ignition advance to 10°BTDC for about 15
seconds, after which, the IC control circuit changes over to trolling ignition tim-
ing "A"
• Trolling Speed Adjusting Mechanism. The trolling ignition timing can be
changed at 2° intervals from 0° to 6°ATDC by means of an idle speed adjusting
switch. By changing over the trolling ignition timing, the trolling speed can be
Idle speed
adjusted. adjusting switch
• All models after 1991 have had the Idle Speed Adjustment Switch 05003G25
removed and instead an ignition timing resistor has been installed. With this
Fig. 71 Trolling speed adjusting mechanism

MAINTENANCE 3-27
Cam
Throttle valve
shaft Throttle valve close
CD "OFF" @ "ON"
Throttle valve full open Throttle valve open

05003G26
Fig. 72 Throttle valve switch and cam
DT55 DT65 THROTTLE LINKAGE
•See Figures 74 and 75

Full-close adjustment of the throttle valve. DT55 (serial number
Surface 501001-502859) and DT65 (serial number 501001-502959)
1. Remove the throttle lever rod (1) from the throttle control (2) lever.
2. Loosen the set screw (4) on the lever (3) of the #1 and #3 carburetors.
3. Tighten the set screw (4) with the throttle valves of the #1 and #3 carbu-
retors fully closed.
4. Check operation by moving the lever (5) of the #2 carburetor to make
f@f
sure the individual throttle valves of each carburetor operate together.
_.If they do not work together uniformly, make the above adjustments
again.
Back Full close adjustment of the throttle valve. DT55 (serial number
502860 to present) and DT65 502960 to present).
5. Remove the throttle lever rod (1) from the throttle control lever (2).
6. Loosen the set screw (4) of the lever (3) of #1 and #3 carburetors. In
this case, the throttle valve is set to its lull-closed position by the action of a
return spring.
7. Move the lever (5) of the second carburetor, a few times (more than 30°)
as shown by the arrow (A) to eliminate any play in the throttle rod between the
carburetors. Al I the throttle valves should be closed evenly.
8. Apply a thread locker to the loosened set screw (4) and tighten.
9. Check operation by moving the lever (5). All throttle valve should move
at the same time.
Adjustment of the throttle lever rod
10. Adjust the dimension (B) of the throttle lever rod (1) to the following
length and attach the control lever:
• Standard dimension (B): DT55-4.5 in. (114 mm); DT65-4.3 in. (108
mm)
11. Move the control lever in the direction of the arrow (C) and adjust the
05003G27
length of the rod (1) with the connector (7) so that the control lever comes in
contact with the stopper (6) at a position where the throttle valve fully opens or
Fig. 73 Working angles of throttle valve switch a position of 1°to 2°this side from the lull-open position.

3-28 MAINTENANCE
Engine No.
DT55 501001 - 502859
DT65 501001 - 502959 No. 1
No.2
No.3
05003G28
Fig. 74 Full close adjustment of the throttle valve (DT55 serial number 501001-502859 and DT65 serial number 501001-502959)
Engine No.
DT55 502860-
3 No. 1
DT65 502960-
No. 2
No.3
1. Throttle lever rod
2. Control lever
3. Lever, No. 1/No. 3 carburetors
4. Set screw
5. Lever, No. 2 carburetor
6. Stopper
7. Connector
05003G29
Fig. 75 Full close adjustment of the throttle valve (DT55 serial number 520860 to present and DT65 serial number 502960 to present)

MAINTENANCE 3-29
rpm, the trolling ignition timing can be obtained. Therefore, by returning the
**CAUTION throttle valve to its fully closed position during high speed travel, the boat's
If there is a gap between the control lever (2) and the stopper (6) speed can be decreased suddenly.
when the throttle valve has opened fully, the throttle rod, throttle
valve or carburetor(s) may be damaged and may not operate cor- CARBURETOR LINKAGE ADJUSTMENT
rectly at full throttle operation.
• See Figure 77
12. If all adjustments are correct, tighten the throttle rod lock nuts securely.
Fully closed adjustment of the throttle valve.
DT75 and DT85 1. Remove the throttle lever rod (1) from the throttle control lever.
2. Ensure that the throttle stop screw (on the #3 carburetor) if fully backed out.
3. Loosen the screws (4) of the adjustable levers on the #1 and #3 carbure-
IGNITION TIMING tors. The return springs will close the throttle valves fully.
4. Flick the lever (5) of the #2 carburetor 2 or 3 times, as shown by the
• See Figure 76 arrow (A), which will ensure that all three throttle valves are closed evenly.
Starting in 1988, the Suzuki digital IC ignition system was adopted. This sys- 5. Tighten the lever screws (4) on the #1 and #3 carburetors and apply
tem eliminates a direct mechanical linkage between the engine end the ignition thread lock compound.
system. Instead, sensors relay information detailing throttle position sensor, gear 6. Finally, check the operation by flicking the lever (5), to see if the three
counter (engine speed) and engine temperature to the ignition module which pro- carburetor throttle valves are balanced and synchronized with each other.
cesses this information and then determines the optimal ignition timing.
Adjustment of the throttle lever rod.
No adjustment is necessary on this system.
The DT75 and DT85 use the Suzuki IC (integrated circuit) ignition system. 1. Adjust the dimension (B) of the throttle lever (1) to the correct length. For the
Ignition timing adjustment is not necessary on models equipped with these DT75: 6.1 in. (155 mm) and the DT85: 5.7 in. (145 mm). Attach the control lever.
ignition systems with the exception of adjusting the throttle valve sensor. They 2. Move the control lever (2) in the direction of the arrow (C) and adjust the
are equipped with the following features: length of the rod (1) by screwing the connector (7) accordingly. The cam on the
• Engine Start Advance Mechanism. This feature ensures easy engine start- control lever should touch the stopper (6) when the throttle valves are fully
ing by automatically advancing the ignition advance to 5°BTDC for about 15 open, or within 1°-2°of being fully open.
seconds, after which, the IC control circuit changes over to trolling ignition tim-
ing "A" I **CAUTION
changed from 7°ATDC in the slow position to 1°BTDC by means of an idle If there is a gap between the control lever (2) and stopper (6) at full
speed adjusting switch. Each position on the switch represents approximately throttle, damage may result to the throttle rod, throttle valves and
50 rpm change. By changing over the trolling ignition timing, the trolling speed carburetors.
can be adjusted.
All models from1991 have had the Idle Speed Adjustment Switch removed
and instead an ignition timing resistor has been installed. With this modifica-
tion, the in gear idle timing with the throttle fully returned is kept at a constant 1. Throttle lever rod
2°-6°ATDC and the in-gear idle speed is now adjusted by the throttle stop 2. Control lever No.1
screw on the #3 carburetor. 3. Lever
4. Lever screws
~The engine rpm at trolling speed has been factory set at approximately 5. Lever
700 rpm. The trolling speed varies depending on boat type, weather con- 6. Stopper
ditions, propeller types and other variables. Adjust the trolling speed 7. Connector
with the idle speed adjusting switch to obtain the desired engine speed.
• Advance Stop Mechanism. When closing the throttle valve fully, an idle
switch is "ON" in conjunction with the carburetor and regardless of the engine No. 2
05003G30
Fig. 77 Throttle rod adjustment dimensions
IDLE SPEED
• See Figure 78
05003824
Adjust the in-gear idle speed in the following way.
Fig. 76 Idle speed adjusting switch 1. Warm up the engine for approximately 5 minutes

3-30 MAINTENANCE
~---CD
~---®
Fig. 78 Idle adjustment screw
1. Top carburetor
2. Turn the pilot air screws in fully (clockwise) until lightly seated, then back 2. 2nd carburetor
them out (counterclockwise) the number of turns specified in the "Idle Air Screw 05003G32
Fig. 79 Throttle linkage synchronization
3. Engage forward gear
4. Set the pilot air screws as specified, then maintain a stable idle by turn-
ing the idle adjustment screw (A) clockwise to increase idle speed or counter-
clockwise to decrease idle speed. Idle speed specifications are located in the 3. Place the remote control lever into forward gear, first notch.
"Tune-Up Specifications" chart. 4. Turn the idle speed adjusting switch to position 5 (slow). This adjusts the
engine speed to a range of 600-650 rpm. The engine must maintain this speed
,..II in-gear idle speed is not in the specified range, or if the engine will for 3 minutes.
not maintain idle rpm, it is possible that there is an abnormality in 5. If the engine speed is less than 600 rpm or it will not maintain trolling
either the fuel or ignition systems. If the fuel and ignition systems are speed for three minutes:
working correctly, ii is possible that the throttle valve sensor may need • Adjust the top carburetor throttle stop screw to maintain the idle speed
adjustment. For this adjustment refer to the applicable section in "Elec- specified in the "Tune-Up Specifications" chart.
trical and Ignition". • Recheck the throttle valve sensor resistance value and readjust if nec-
essary. See "Electrical and Ignition"
DT90 and DT100
DT115 and DT140
IGNITION TIMING
IGNITION TIMING
The DT90 and DT100 are all equipped with the Micro Link Ignition system.
This system uses a microcomputer to maximize combustion control and thus The DT115 and DT140 models are equipped with the Suzuki digital IC igni-
improve engine performance. The system uses various sensors and switches to tion system. This system eliminates a direct mechanical linkage between the
monitor engine rpm, throttle valve opening, shift lever position and operator engine end the ignition system. Instead, sensors relay information detailing
selected idle speed. The computer constantly evaluates this information and throttle position sensor, gear counter (engine speed) and engine temperature to
provides the optimal ignition spark timing for the current engine running condi- the ignition module which processes this information and then determines the
tion. optimal ignition timing.
No adjustment is necessary on these models. If there is a problem with igni- Ignition timing adjustment is not necessary on models equipped with these
tion timing, it is most likely caused by a faulty COi module. Refer to the appro- ignition systems with the exception of adjusting the throttle valve sensor. They
priate section in "Electrical and Ignition" for COi troubleshooting. are equipped with the following features:
CARBURETOR LINKAGE ADJUSTMENT ing by automatically advancing the ignition advance to 7°BTDC for about 15
seconds, alter which, the time the ignition timing will return to the idle speed
• See Figure 79 circuit and what ever position the "Idle Speed Adjustment Switch" is set at.
1. Check the length of the throttle linkage rod (1) to the carburetors. ,..Due to the higher rpm created by the automatic starling device, do not
2. Loosen the throttle lever adjusting screws (2) on the top carburetor shift gears until the engine speed has returned to normal idle speed.
3. Lightly push the throttle lever (3) clockwise until the throttle valves are
completely closed. Then tighten the adjusting screws (2) • Trolling Speed Adjusting Mechanism. The trolling ignition timing can be
4. Actuate the throttle linkage and check if both throttle valves are synchro- changed from 7°ATDC in the slow position to 1°BTDC by means of an idle
nized in the completely closed position. If the throttle valves are not synchro- speed adjusting switch. Each position on the switch represents approximately
nized, perform the adjustment again 50 rpm change. By changing over the trolling ignition timing, the trolling speed
can be adjusted.
IDLE SPEED Within idle speed range, the timing is not a!!ected by any change in engine
speed, up to 900 rpm. To further assure exact ignition timing, a gear counter
coil electrically measures the flywheel position and sends this information to the
1. Warm up the engine for approximately live minutes. COi module.
2. On the carburetor, turn the pilot screw all the way in until it lightly seats
and then back it out the number of turns specified in the "Idle Air Screw Specifi- ,..All models from 1991 have had the "Idle Speed Adjustment Switch"
cations" chart. removed and instead an ignition liming resistor has been installed. With
this modification, the in gear idle timing with the throttle fully returned
,..Do not overtighten the pilot screw or you may damage the screw. Just is kept at a constant 6°ATDC and the in-gear idle speed is now adjusted
lightly seat it and then turn ii out. by the throttle stop screw on the #4 carburetor.

MAINTENANCE 3-31
~The engine rpm at trolling speed has been factory set at approxi-
mately 700 rpm. The trolling speed varies depending on boat type,
trolling speed with the idle speed adjusting switch to obtain the desired
engine speed.
• Advance Stop Mechanism. When closing the throttle valve fully, an idle
switch is "ON" in conjunction with the carburetor and regardless of the engine
rpm, the trolling ignition timing can be obtained. Therefore, by returning the
throttle valve to its fully closed position during high speed travel, the boat's
speed can be decreased suddenly.
CARBURETOR LINKAGE

1. Check the throttle linkage rod (1) to the carburetors.
2. Loosen the throttle lever adjusting screws (2) on the #1, #2, #3 carbure-
tors.
3. Lightly push the throttle lever (3) clockwise until the throttle valves are
completely closed. Tighten the adjusting screws (2) after applying a thread lock-
ing agent.
4. Move the throttle linkage back and forth and check if all the throttle
valves are synchronized in the completely closed position.
5. Adjust the link rod (1) to an initial length of 6.3 in. (160 mm) measured
between the centers of each connector; the connectors must be at the same
angle after adjusting.
6. Install the link rod (1) onto the anchor pins (3) on the carburetor lever (4) 1. Throttle linkage rod
and the throttle control /ever (5). 2. Adjusting screws
7. Push the throttle control lever (5) counterclockwise until the throttle 3. Throttle lever
valves are completely opened. Then, the clearance between the throttle control 05003G33
lever (5) and the stopper (6) on the crankcase must be zero. Fig. 80 Throttle linkage rods-DT115 and DT140
8. Readjust the connectors to achieve this clearance.
9. Check for freedom of movement in the linkage.
16Dmm (6.3 in)
1. Link rod
2. Connector
3. Anchor pins
4. Carburetor lever
5. Throttle control lever
6. Stopper
05003834
Fig. 81 Adjusting the link rod to its initial setting

3-32 MAINTENANCE
IDLE SPEED curve is cancelled and ignition timing is returned automatically to the timing of
the "Idle Speed Adjustment Switch". This guarantees that the engine speed will
1. Warm up the engine for approximately five minutes. return to idle automatically. If this switch does not function properly, the engine
2. On the carburetor, turn the pilot screw in all the way until it lightly seats, rpm will take longer to return to idle speed.
and then back it out the number of turns specified in the "Idle Air Screw Specifi-
cations" chart.
CARBURETOR LINKAGE
3. Place the remote control in forward gear, first notch.
4. Turn the idle adjusting switch to maintain the minimum idle speed speci- • See Figure 82
fied in the "Tune-Up Specifications" chart. 1. Check the throttle linkage rod "1" to the carburetors.
,..All models from 1991 have had the "Idle Speed Adjustment Switch" 2. Loosen the throttle lever adjusting screws "2" on the top and center car-
removed and instead an ignition timing resistor has been installed. With buretors.
this modification, the in gear idle timing with the throttle fully returned 3. Lightly push the throttle lever "3" clockwise until the throttle valves are
is kept at a constant 6°ATDC and the in-gear idle speed is now adjusted completely closed. Then tighten the adjusting screws "2".
by the throttle stop screw on the #4 carburetor. 4. Move the throttle linkage and check to make sure all the throttle valves
are synchronized and in the completely closed position.
DT150, DT175, DT200 .
IGNITION TIMING
The V6 models are equipped with the Suzuki digital IC ignition system. This
Top carburetor
system eliminates a direct mechanical linkage between the engine end the igni-
tion system. Instead, sensors relay information detailing throttle position sensor,
gear counter (engine speed) and engine temperature to the ignition module which
processes this information and then determines the optimal ignition timing.
Ignition timing adjustment is not necessary on models equipped with these
ignition systems with the exception of adjusting the throttle valve sensor. They
are equipped with the following features:
ing by automatically advancing the ignition advance to 5°BTDC for about 15
seconds, after which, the time the ignition timing will return to the idle speed
circuit and what ever position the "Idle Speed Adjustment Switch" is set at.
,-oue to the higher rpm created by the automatic starting device, do not Center carburetor
shift gears until the engine speed has returned to normal idle speed.
changed from 6.5°ATDC in the slow position to 0.5°BTDC by means of an idle
speed adjusting switch. Each position on the switch represents approximately
50 rpm change. By changing over the trolling ignition timing, the trolling speed
can be adjusted. Within idle speed range, the timing is not affected by any
change in engine speed, up to 900 rpm. To further assure exact ignition timing,
a gear counter coil electrically measures the flywheel position and sends this
information to the CDI module. 1. Throttle linkage rod
2. Adjusting screws
,..All models from 1991 have had the "Idle Speed Adjustment Switch" 3. Throttle lever
removed and instead an ignition timing resistor has been installed. With 05003G35
this modification, the in gear idle timing with the throttle fully returned
is kept at a constant 5°ATDC and the in-gear idle speed is now adjusted Fig. 82 Throttle linkage rod-DT150, DT175, DT200
by the throttle stop screw on the #3 carburetor.
,..The engine rpm at trolling speed has been factory set at approxi-
mately 700 rpm. The trolling speed varies depending on boat type, IDLE SPEED
trolling speed with the idle speed adjusting switch to obtain the desired 1. Warm up the engine for approximately five minutes.
engine speed. 2. On the carburetor, turn the pilot screw in all the way until it lightly seats,
• Accelerator and Idle Return Switches. These switches are :nounted in a and then back it out the number of turns specified in the "Idle Air Screw Specifi-
single sealed unit on the port side of the #3 carburetor and are activated by cations" chart.
throttle position. 3. Place the remote control in forward gear, first notch.
• Accelerator switch. This switch prevents the ignition timing from lagging 4. Turn the idle adjusting switch to maintain the minimum idle speed speci-
behind on quick acceleration by automatically giving the ignition 5 more fied in the "Tune-Up Specifications" chart.
degrees of advance as soon as it is activated. This switch is activated at 10 ,..All models from 1991 have had the "Idle Speed Adjustment Switch"
degrees of throttle valve opening. When the engine is accelerated slowly, the removed and instead an ignition timing resistor has been installed. With
switch is activated at approximately 1,800 rpm. this modification, the in gear idle timing with the throttle fully returned
• Idle return switch. This switch is "ON" when the throttle valve position is is kept at a constant 5°ATDC and the in-gear idle speed is now adjusted
between 0°(full closed) and 2°open. When the switch is on, the basic advance by the throttle stop screw on the #3 carburetor.

MAINTENANCE 3-33
Carburetor Idle Air Screw Specification
Turns Out From
Model Year Type Lightly Seated
DT2 1988-96 1.25-1.75
DT2.2 1997 0.375-0.875
DT4 1988-98 1-1.50
DT5Y 1998-02 1.25
DT6 1988-02 S-type 0.875-1.375
1988-02 Land UL type 1-1.50
DT8 1988-91 1.75-2.25
1992-97 0.50-1.0
DT9.9 1988-97 1.125-1.625
DT15 1988-97 1.50-2
DT20 1988 1.75-2.25
DT 25 (2-cyl) 1.25-1.75
DT 25 (3-cyl) 1989 MC 1.25-1.75
1988-90 Except MC 1.5-2.0
1991-00 1.0-1.5
DT30 1989 MC 1.25-1.75
1988-90 Except MC 1.5-2.0
1991-97 1.0-1.5
DT35 1988-89 1.5-2.0
DT40 1988-91 1.5-2.0
1992-98 0.875-1.375
DT55 1988-89 1.25-1.75
1990-97 1.0-1.5
DT65 1988-89 1.25-1.75
1990-97 1.0-1.5
DT75 1988-90 1.75-2.25
1991-94 1.5-2.0
1995-97 1.375-1.875
DT85 1988-90 1.625-2.125
1991 0.75-1.25
1992 0.50-1.0
1993-00 1.375-1.875
DT90 1989-97 1.125-1.625
DT100 1989-91 1.125-1.625
1992-00 1.375-1.875
DT 115 1988 1.25-1.75
1989 0.875
1990-91 1.0-1.5
1992-95 0.625-1.125
1996-01 0.75-1.25
DT 140 1988 1.0-1.5
1989-91 1.125-1.625
1992-01 0.625-1.125
DT 150 1988 1-1.50
1989-03 1.25-1.75
DT 175 1988 1.5-2.0
1989-92 1.25-1.75
DT200 1988-00 1.25-1.75
DT225 1998-03 EFI

3-34 MAINTENANCE
Tuneup Specifications Chart
Spark Ignition Idle Speed
Spark Plug Plug Gap Timing RPM
Model NGK Champion lnch(mm) 0
BTDC (Neutral)
DT2 1988-89 B4H L81, L88A .024-.028 (.6-.7) 15@4500 800-900
1990 B4H L81, L88A .024-.028 (.6-.7) 19@4500 800-900
1991 B5HS L81, L88A .024-.028 (.6-.7) 19@4500 800-900
1992-96 B5HS L81, L88A .024-.028 (.6-.7) 17-21@4500 800-900
DT2.2 1997 BR5HS L81, L88A .024-.028 (.6-.7) 23-27@5000 1000-1100
DT4 1988-89 BP6HS RL12Y,RL87Y,L66Y .024-.028 (.6-.7) 25@5000 850-900
1990-98 BP5HS L81, L88A .024-.028 (.6-.7) 24@5000 850-900
DT5Y 1998-02 BPR7HS-10 .035-.039 (.9-1.0) 26@5000 1150-1250
DT6 1988-02 BR6HS-10 RL12Y,RL87Y,L66Y .035-.039 (.9-1.0) 23-27@5000 600-650
OT8 1988-97 BPR6HS RL12Y,RL87Y,L66Y .031-.035 (.08-.09) 23-27@5000 600-650
OT9.9 1988-97 B6HS L9J, QL7J, RL7J .035-.039 (.9-1.0) 23-27@5000 600-650
OT15 1988 B7HS L5, L7J .035-.039 (.9-1.0) 23-27@5000 600-650
1989 B7HS-10 NIA .035-.039 (.9-1.0) 27@2000 600-650
1991-97 BR7HS-10 N/A .035-.039 (.9-1.0) 28@2000 650-700
OT20 1988 BR7HS L5, L7J .035-.039 (.9-1.0) 25@5000 600-650
OT25 1990 BR7HS-10 NIA .035-.039 (.9-1.0) 25@5000 650-700
1991 BR7HS L5, L7J .035-.039 (.9-1.0) 23-27@5000 600-650
1992-00 BR7HS-10 N/A .035-.039 (.9-1.0) 23-27@5000 600-650
OT30 1989-90 BR7HS-10 NIA .035-.039 (.9-1.0) 25@5000 650-700
1991-97 BR7HS-10 N/A .035-.039 (.9-1.0) 23-27@5000 650-700
OT35 1988-89 BBHS L4J, RL4J, L78, RL78 .031-.035 (.08-.09) 23-27@5000 650-700
OT40 1988-98 B8HS L4J, RL4J, L78, RL79 .031-.035 (.08-.09) 23-27@5000 650-700
OT55 1988-89 B8HS-10 L4J, RL4J, L78, RL78 .035-.039 (.9-1.0) 23@5000 650-700
1990 B8HS-10 L4J, RL4J, L78, RL78 .035-.039 (.9-1.0) 17@5000 650-700
1991-97 B8HS-10 L4J, RL4J, L78, RL78 .035-.039 (.9-1.0) 15-19@5000 750-800
OT65 1988-90 B8HS-10 L4J, RL4J, L78, RL78 .031-.035 (.8-.9) 25@5000 650-700
1991-97 B8HS-10 L4J, RL4J, L78, RL78 .031-.035 (.8-.9) 23-27@WOT 650-700
OT75 1988-94 B8HS-10 L4J, RL4J, L78, RL78 .031-.035 (.8-.9) 16-20@WOT 600-700
1995-97 BR8HS-10 N/A .035-.039 (.9-1.0) 18@WOT 700-800
OT85 1988-91 BBHS L4J, RL4J, L78, RL78 .031-.035 (.8-.9) 18@WOT 600-700
1992-94 B8HS-10 L4J, RL4J, L78, RL78 .031-.035 (.8-.9) 16-20@WOT 600-700
1995-00 BR8HS-10 N/A .035-. 039 (. 9-1. 0) 18@WOT 700-800
OT90 1989-91 BR8HS-10 NIA .035-.039 (.9-1.0) 23@5000 650-700
1992-97 BR8HCS-10 NIA .035-.039 (.9-1.0) 21-25@WOT 650-700
OT100 1989-91 BRBHS-10 N/A .035-.039 (.9-1.0) 23@5000 650-700
1992-00 BR8HCS-10 NIA .035-.039 (.9-1.0) 21-25@WOT 650-700
OT115 1988 B8HS L4J, RL4J, L78, RL78 .031-.035 (.8-.9) 23@5000 600-700
1989-90 B8HS L4J, RL4J, L78, RL78 .031-035 (.8-.9) 20@5000 600-700
1991-95 B8HS L4J, RL4J, L78, RL78 .035-.039 (.9-1.0) 22-26@WOT 600-700
1996 BR8HCS-10 NIA .035-.039 (.9-1.0) 18-22@WOT 650-750
1996-01 EFI BR8HS-10 L4J, RL4J, L78, RL78 .035-.039 (.9-1.0) 26@5870-6130 600-700
OT 140 1988 B8HS L4J, RL4J, L78, RL78 .031-.035 (.8-.9) 23@5000 600-700
1989-90 BBHS L4J, RL4J, L78, RL78 .031-.035 (.8-.9) 20@5000 600-700
1991-95 B8HS L4J, RL4J, L78, RL78 .035-.039 (.9-1.0) 22-26@WOT 600-700
1996 BR8HCS-10 NIA .035-.039 (.9-1.0) 18-22@WOT 650-750
1996-01 EFI BR8HS-10 L4J, RL4J, L78, RL78 .035-.039 (.9-1.0) 26@ 5870-6130 600-700
OT 150 1988 B8HS-10 L4J, RL4J, L78, RL78 .035-.039 (.9-1.0) 22@5000 600-700
1989-94 BR8HS-10 N/A .035-.039 (.9-1.0) 20-24@5000 600-700
1995-03 EFI BP8HS-10 N/A .035-.039 (.9-1.0) 24@WOT 750-850
OT175 1988 B8HS-10 L4J, RL4J, L78, RL78 .035-.039 (.9-1.0) 22@5000 600-700
1989-92 BR8HS-10 NIA .035-.039 (.9-1.0) 20-24@5000 600-700
OT200 1988 B8HS-10 L4J, RL4J, L78, RL78 .035-.039 (.9-1.0) 22@5000 600-700
1989-92 BR8HS-10 N/A .035-.039 (.9-1.0) 20-24@5000 600-700
1993-94 EFI BR8HS-10 N/A .035-.039 (.9-1.0) 24@WOT 650-750
1995-00 EFI BP8HS-10 N/A .035-.039 (.9-1.0) 24 Non-Adjustable 750-850
OT225 1990-03 BRBHS-10 NIA .035-.039 (.9-1.0) 13-17@WOT 600-700

MAINTENANCE 3-35
WINTER STORAGE CHECKLIST
Taking extra time to store the boat properly at the end of each season will 2. Drain all fuel from the carburetor float bowls. On fuel injected models,
increase the chances of satisfactory service at the next season. Remember, stor- drain the fuel from the vapor separator.
age is the greatest enemy of an outboard motor. The unit should be run on a 3. Drain the fuel tank and the fuel lines Store the fuel tank in a cool dry
monthly basis. The boat steering and shifting mechanism should also be area with the vent OPEN to allow air to circulate through the tank. Do not store
worked through complete cycles several times each month. If a small amount of the fuel tank on bare concrete. Place the tank to allow air to circulate around it.
time is spent in such maintenance, the reward will be satisfactory performance, 4. Change the fuel filter.
increased longevity and greatly reduced maintenance expenses. 5. Drain, and then fill the lower unit with new lower unit gear oil.
For many years there has been the widespread belief simply shutting off 6. Lubricate the throttle and shift linkage and the steering pivot shaft.
the fuel at the tank and then running the powerhead until it stops is the 7. Clean the outboard unit thoroughly. Coat the powerhead with a commer-
proper procedure before storing the engine for any length of time. Right? cial corrosion and rust preventative spray. Install the cowling, and then apply a
WRONG! thin film of fresh engine oil to all painted surfaces.
First, it is not possible to remove all fuel in the carburetor by operating the 8. Remove the propeller. Apply Perfect Seal® or a waterproof sealer to the
powerhead until it stops. Considerable fuel is trapped in the float chamber and propeller shaft splines, and then install the propeller back in position.
other passages and in the line leading to the carburetor. The only guaranteed 9. Be sure all drain holes in the gear housing are open and free of obstruc-
method of removing all fuel is to take the time to remove the carburetors, and tions. Check to be sure the flush plug has been removed to allow all the water to
drain the fuel. drain. Trapped water could freeze, expand, and cause expensive castings to
Proper storage involves adequate protection of the unit from physical dam- crack.
age, rust, corrosion, and dirt. The following steps provide an adequate mainte- 10. Always store the outboard unit off the boat with the lower unit below the
nance program for storing the unit at the end of a season. powerhead to prevent any water from being trapped inside.
1. Squirt a small quantity of engine oil into each spark plug hole and crank 11. Be sure to consult your owners manual for any particular storage proce-
the engine over to distribute the oil around the engine internals. Reinstall the dures applicable to your specific model.
old spark plugs (you will install new spark plugs in the spring).
SPRING COMMISSIONING CHECKLIST

• See Figures 83 thru 90 Satisfactory performance and maximum enjoyment can be realized if a little
time is spent in preparing the outboard unit for service at the beginning of the
A spring tune-up is essential to getting the most out of your engine. If the season. Assuming the unit has been properly stored, a minimum amount of
engine has been properly winterized, it is usually no problem to get it in top work is required to prepare the unit for use. The following steps outline an ade-
running condition again in the springtime. If the engine has just been put in the quate and logical sequence of tasks to be performed before using the outboard
garage and forgotten for the winter, then it is doubly important to do a complete the first time in a new season.
tune up before putting the engine back into service. If you have ever been 1. Lubricate the outboard according to the manufacturer's recommenda-
stranded out on the water because your engine has died, and you had to suffer tions.
the embarrassment of having to be towed back to the marina, now is the time to 2. Perform a tune-up on the engine. This should include replacing the
prevent that from occurring. spark plugs and making a thorough check of the ignition system. The ignition
04703P16 04703P34
Fig. 83 Removing the fuel filter for inspection and possible replace- Fig. 84 Make a pre-season check of the fuel line coupling at the fuel
ment joint to ensure a proper and clean connection

3-36 MAINTENANCE
04893P73
Fig. 86 Honda outboards come with a self contained flushing port on

the lower unit that uses a special flush kit adapter available from
your dealer
Fig. 85 This popular and inexpensive flushing device should be

included in every boat owner's maintenance kit
system check should include the ignition coils, stator assembly, condition of the
wiring and the battery.
3. If a built-in fuel tank is installed, take time to check the tank and all
fuel lines, fittings, couplings, valves, including the flexible tank fill and vent.
Turn on the fuel supply valve at the tank. If the fuel was not drained at the end
of the previous season, make a careful inspection for gum formation. If a six-
gallon fuel tank is used, take the same action. When gasoline is allowed to
stand for long periods of time, particularly in the presence of copper, gummy
deposits form. This gum can clog the filters, lines, and passageways in the
carburetor.
4. Replace the oil in the lower unit.
5. Replace the fuel filter.
6. Replace the engine oil and filter. Make sure to use only a quality four
stroke engine oil and NEVER use two stroke oil in a four stroke engine.
7. Close all water drains. Check and replace any defective water hoses.
Check to be sure the connections do not leak. Replace any spring-type hose
clamps with band-type clamps, if they have lost their tension or if they have
distorted the water hose.
8. The engine can be run with the lower unit in water to flush it. If this
is not practical, a flush attachment may be used. This unit is attached to
the water pick-up in the lower unit. Attach a garden hose, turn on the
water, allow the water to flow into the engine for awhile, and then run the 04703P36
engine. Fig. 87 Electrical and fuel system components should be checked on
a regular basis
**CAUTION
Water must circulate through the lower unit to the powerhead any-
time the powerhead is operating to prevent the engine from over- 10. Check the electrolyte level in the battery and the voltage for a full
heating and damage to the water pump in the lower unit. Just five charge. Clean and inspect the battery terminals and cable connections.
seconds without water will damage the water pump impeller. Take time to check the polarity, if a new battery is being installed. Cover the
cable connections with grease or special protective compound as a preven-
9. Check the exhaust outlet for water discharge. Check for leaks. Check tion to corrosion formation. Check all electrical wiring and grounding cir-
operation of the thermostat. cuits.

MAINTENANCE 3-37
Fig. 88 Checking the condition of the battery electrolyte using a

hydrometer 04703P38
Fig. 89 A water separating fuel filter installed inside the boat on the
transom
11. Check all electrical parts on the engine and lower portions of the hull.
Rubber boots help keep electrical connections clean and reduce the possibility
of arcing.
~Electric cranking motors and high tension wiring harnesses should be
of a marine type that cannot cause an explosive mixture to ignite.
12. If a water separating filter is installed between the fuel tank and the pow-
erhead fuel filter, replace the element at least once each season. This filter
removes water and fuel system contaminants such as dirt, rust, and other
solids, thus reducing potential problems.
13. As a last step in spring commissioning, perform a full engine tune-
up.
**CAUTION
Before putting the boat in the water, take time to verify the drain
plugs are installed. Countless number of boating excursions have
had a very sad beginning because the boat was eased into the
water only to have the boat begin to fill with the water.
04897P69
Fig. 90 The thermostat is usually located in an accessible place for

easy maintenance or replacement

General Engine Specifications
wI
Model Engme Displace Bore and OU lnfeciioll fgnition starting Cooling w
Year (Horsepower) Type cu.in.Jee) Stroke Syste111_ sy_stem System System CX>
2003 OT150 V-6 (60+) 164.3 (2693) 3.31x 3.19 Oil Injection Microlink Electric Impeller Pumpffhennostat Controlled
OT225 V-6 (60+) 164.3 (2693) 3.31x3.19 Oil Injection Microlink Electric Impeller Pumpffhennostat Controlled
2002 OT5Y
OT6
1-cyinder
lnline 2-cyt
6.7 (109)
10.1 (165)
2.2x 1.8
1.97x1.65
Pre-mix
Pre-mix
Suzuki P.E.I.
Suzuki P.E.1.
Manual w/ manual choke
Impeller Pump
Impeller Pump
s:::
)>
OT150 V-6 (60+) 164.3 (2693) 3.31x3.19 Oil Injection Micro link Electric Impeller Pumpffhennostat Controlled
OT225 V-6 (60+) 164.3 (2693) 3.31x3.19 Oil Injection Micro link Electric Impeller Pumpffhennostat Controlled z
2001 OT5Y 1-cyinder 6.7 (109) 2.2x 1.8 Pre-mix Suzuki P.E.1. Manual w/ manual choke Impeller Pump -I
OT6 lnline 2-cyl 10.1 (165) 1.97x 1.65 Pre-mix Suzuki P.E.I. Manual w/ manual choke Impeller Pump m
OT115
OT140
lnline 4-cyl
lnline 4cyl
103.2 (1773)
103.2 (1773)
3.31x3.15
3.31x3.15
Oil Injection
Oil Injection
Oigitall.C
Oigitall.C
Electric
Electric
Impeller Pumpffhennostat Controlled
z)>
OT150
OT225
V-6 (60+)
V-6 (60+)
164.3 (2693)
164.3 (2693)
3.31 x3.19
3.31x3.19
Oil Injection
Oil Injection
Microlink
Microlink
Electric
Electric
Impeller Pumpffhennostat Controlled z
()
2000 OT5Y 1-cyinder 6.7 (109) 2.2x1.8 Pre-mix Suzuki P.E.I. Manual w/ manual choke Impeller Pump
DT6 lnline 2-cyl 10.1 (165) 1.97x 1.65 Pre-mix Suzuki P.E.1. Manual w/manual choke Impeller Pump m
DT25 lnline 3-cyt 33.1 (543) 2.44x 2.36 Oil Injection Digital 1.C Electric/Manual w/ Electric/man C Impeller Pumpffhennostat Controlled
DT85 lnline 3-cyt 73 (1197) 3.31x2.83 Oil Injection Digitall.C Electric w/ electric choke Impeller Pumpffhennostat Controlled
DT100 V-4(70+) 86.6 (1419) 3.31x2.52 Oil Injection Microlink Electric Impeller Pumpffhennostat Controlled
OT115 lnline 4-cyl 103.2 (1773) 3.31x3.15 Oil Injection Oigitall.C Electric Impeller Pumpffhennostat Controlled
OT140 lnline 4cyl 103.2 (1773) 3.31x3.15 Oil Injection Digital l.C Electric Impeller Pumpffhennostat Controlled
OT200 V-6 (60+} 164.3 (2693) 3.31x3.19 Oil Injection Microlink Electric Impeller Pumpffhennostat Controlled
1999 DT4 1 - cylinder 5.5 (90) 1.97x 1.81 Pre-mix Suzuki P.E.I. Manual w/ manual choke Impeller pump
OT5Y 1- cylinder 6.7 (109) 2.2x 1.8 Pre-mix Suzuki P.E.I. Manual wmanual choke Impeller pump
OT6 lnline 2-cytinder 10.1 (165) 1.97x1.65 Pre-Mix Suzuki P.E.I. Manual w/manual choke Impeller Pump
OT25 lnline 3-cylinder 33.1 (543) 2.44 x 2.36 Oil Injection Digital LC. Electric/Manualw/ electrichnanual choke Impeller PWTip /Thennostat Controlled
DT 85 lnline 3-cylinder 73(1197) 3.31x2.83 Oil Injection Digital LC. Electric w/ electric choke Impeller Pump I Thennostat Controlled
OT100 V-4(70•) 86.6 (1419) 3.31x2.52 Oil Injection Microlink Electric Impeller Pump I Thermostat Controlled
DT 115EFI lnline 4-cylinder 103.2 (1773) 3.31x3.15 Oil Injection Digital LC. Electric Impeller Pump I Thennostat Controlled
DT 140 EFI lnline 4-cylinder 103.2 (1773) 3.31x3.15 Oil Injection Digital LC. Electric Impeller Pump I Thennostat Controlled
DT 150 EFI V-6(60•) 164.3 (2693) 3.31 x3.19 Oil Injection Microlink Electric Impeller Pump I Thennostat Controlled
DT200EFI V·6(60•) 164.3 (2693) 3.31 x3.19 Oil Injection Microlink Electric Impeller Pump I Thennostat Controlled
DT 225 EFI V-6(60•) 164.3 (2693) 3.31x3.19 Oil Injection Micro Link Electric Impeller Pump I Thennostat Controlled
1998 DT4 1-cylinder 5.5 (90) 1.97x 1.81 Pre~Mix Suzuki P.E.I. Manual w/manual choke Impeller Pump
OT5Y 1- cylinder 6.7 (109) 2.2x 1.8 Pre-mix Susuki P.E.I. Manual w/ manual choke Impeller Pump
OT6 lnline 2-cylinder 10.1 (165) 1.97x 1.65 Pre-Mix Suzuki P.E.I. Manual w/ manual choke Impeller Pump
DT25 lnline 3-cylinder 33.1 (543) 2.44x 2.36 Oil Injection Digitall.C. Electric/Manual w/ electrichnanual choke Impeller Pump
DT 40 lnline 2-cylinder 42.5 (696) 3.11x2:80 Oil Injection Suzuki P.E.I. Electric/Manual w/ electrichnanual choke Impeller Pump I Thennostat Controlled
DT85 lnline 3-cylinder 73 (1197) 3.31x2.83 Oil Injection Digital LC. Electric Impeller Pump I Thennostat Controlled
DT 100 V-4(70•) 86.6 (1419) 3.31x2.52 Oil Injection Microlink Electric Impeller Pump I Thennostat Controlled
DT 115EFI lnline 4-cylinder 103.2 (1773) 3.31x3.15 Oil Injection Digital LC. Electric Impeller Pump I Thennostat Controlled
DT 140 EFI lnline 4-cylinder 103.2 (1773) 3.31x3.15 Oil Injection Digital LC. Electric Impeller Pump /Thennostat Controlled
DT 150 EFI V-6(60'} 164.3 (2693) 3.31x3.19 Oil Injection Microlink Electric Impeller Pump /Thennostat Controlled
DT200EFI V-6 (60•) 164.3 (2693) 3.31x3.19 Oil Injection Microlink Electric Impeller Pump /Thennostat Controlled
DT225 EFI V-6 (60•) 164.3 (2693) 3.31x3.19 Oil Injection Micro link Electric Impeller Pump I Thennostat Controlled
1997 DT2.2 1-cylinder 3.4(55) 1.61x1.50 100:1 Pre-Mix Suzuki P.E.I. Manual w/ manual choke Impeller Pump
OT 4 1-cylinder 5.5(90) 1.97x 1.81 100:1 Pre-Mix Suzuki P.E.I. Manual w/ manual choke Impeller Pump
DT6 lnline 2-cylinder 10.1 (165) 1.97x1.65 100:1 Pre-Mix Suzuki P.E.I. Manual w/ manual choke Impeller Pump
DT8 lnline 2-cylinder 12.8 (211) 2.13x 1.81 Oil Injection Suzuki P.E.I. Manual w/manual choke Impeller Pump
DT9.9 lnline 2-cylinder 12.8(211) 2.13x 1.81 Oil Injection Suzuki P.E.I. Manual w/ manual choke Impeller Pump
OT 15 lnline 2·cyiinder 17.3 (284) 2.32x 2.05 Oil ~jection Digital LC. Manual/Electric w/ electric/manual choke Impeller Pump
OT25 lnline 3-cylinder 33.1 (543) 2.44x 2.36 Oil Injection Digital LC. Manual/Electric w/ electrichnanual choke Impeller Pump
OT30 lnline 3-cylinder 33.1 (543) 2.44x 2.36 Oil Injection Digital LC. Manual/Electric w/ electrichnanual choke Impeller Pump
OT 40 lnline 2-cylinder 42.5 (696) 3.11 x2.80 Oil Injection Suzuki P.E.I. Electric/Manual w/ manualfelectric choke Impeller Pump
Model engine___ -Dispiace-----aore and 011 ln1ect1on Ignition starting Coohng
Year (Horsepower) Type cu.In. (cc) Stroke System System System System
1997 DT55 lnline 3-cytinder 54.4(891) 2.87 x 2.80 Oil Injection Suzuki P.E.1. Electric w/ electric choke Impeller Pump I Thermostat Controlled
DT65 lnline 3-cylinder 54.4(891) 2.87 x 2.80 Oil Injection Digilall.C. Electric wl electric choke Impeller Pump I Thermostat Controlled
DT75 lnline 3-cylinder 73 (1197) 3.31x2.83 Oil Injection Digilall.C. Electric w/ electric choke Impeller Pump I Thermostat Controlled
DT 85 lnline 3-cylinder 73 (1197) 3.31x2.83 Oil Injection Digilall.C. Electric w/ electric choke Impeller Pump /Thermostat Controlled
DT90 V-4(70') 86.6 (1419) 3.31x2.52 Oil Injection Microlink Electric wl Suzuki Start System Impeller Pump I Thermostat Controlled
OT100 V-4(70') 86.6 (1419) 3.31x2.52 Oil Injection Microlink Electric wl Suzuki Start System Impeller Pump /Thermostat Controlled
DT115 lnline 4-cylinder 108.2 (1773) 3.31x3.15 Oil Injection Digilall.C. Electric wl electric choke Impeller Pump I Thermostat Controlled
DT 115 EFI lnline 4-cylinder 108.2 (1773) 3.31x3.15 Oil Injection Microlink Electric wl Suzuki EFI Impeller Pump I Thermostat Controlled
DT140EFI lnline 4-cylinder 108.2 (1773) 3.31x3.15 Oil Injection Microlink Electric wl Suzuki EFI Impeller Pump I Thermostat Controlled
DT150EFI V-6 (60') 164.3 (2693) 3.31 X3.19 Oil Injection Microlink Electric w/ Suzuki EFI Impeller Pump /Thermostat Controlled
DT200EFI V-6(60') 164.3 (2693) 3.31 X3.19 Oil Injection Microlink Electric wl Suzuki EFI Impeller Pump I Thermostat Controlled
DT225 EFI V-6(60') 164.3 (2693) 3.31 X3.19 Oil Injection Microlink Electric wl Suzuki EFI Impeller Pump /Thermostat Controlled
1996 DT2 1-cylinder 3.05 (50) 1.61 x1.49 100:1 Pre-Mix Flywheel Magneto Manual wl manual choke Impeller Pump
DT4 1-cylinder 5.5 (90) 1.97x 1.81 100:1 Pre-Mix Suzuki P.E.I. Manual wl manual choke Impeller Pump
DT6 lnline 2-cylinder 10.1 (165) 1.97x 1.65 100:1 Pre-Mix Suzuki P.E.I. Manual w/ manual choke Impeller Pump
DT8 lnline 2-cylinder 12.8(211) 2.13x 1.81 Oil Injection Suzuki P.E.I. Manual wl manual choke Impeller Pump
DT9.9 lnline 2-cylinder 12.8 (211) 2.13x 1.81 Oil Injection Suzuki P.E.I. Manual w/ manual choke Impeller Pump
OT15 lnline 2-cylinder 17.3 (284) 2.32x 2.05 Oil Injection Digital LC. Manual/Electric w/ electric/manual choke Impeller Pump
DT25 lnline 3-cylinder 33.1 (543) 2.44x 2.36 Oil Injection Digital LC. Manual/Electric wl electric/manual choke Impeller Pump
DT30 lnline 3-cyinder 33.1 (543) 2.44x 2.36 Oil Injection Digital LC. Manual/Electric w/ electric/manual choke Impeller Pump
DT 40 lnline 2-cylinder 42:5 (696) 3.11 x2.80 Oil Injection Suzuki P.E.I. Electric/Manual w/ manual/electric choke Impeller Pump
DT55 lnline 3-cylinder 54.4(891) 2.87 x 2.80 Oil Injection Suzuki P.E.I. Electric wl electric choke Impeller Pump /Thermostat Controlled
DT65 lnline 3-cylinder 54.4(891) 2.87 x 2.80 Oil Injection Digilall.C. Electric wl electric choke Impeller Pump I Thermostat Controlled
DT75 lnline 3-cylinder 73(1197) 3.31x2.83 Oil Injection Digitall.C. Electric wl electric choke Impeller Pump I Thermostat Controlled
DT85 lnline 3-cylinder 73 (1197) 3.31x2.83 Oil Injection Digital LC. Electric w/ electric choke Impeller Pump I Thermostat Controlled
DT90 V-4(70') 86.6 (1419) 3.31x2.52 Oil Injection Microlink Electric w/ Suzuki Start System Impeller Pump I Thermostat Controlled
OT 100 V-4(70') 86.6 (1419) 3.31x2.52 Oil Injection Microlink Electric w/ Suzuki Start System Impeller Pump I Thermostat Controlled
DT115 lnline 4-cylinder 108.2 (1773) 3.31x3.15 Oil Injection Digital l.C. Electric wl electric choke Impeller Pump I Thermostat Controlled
DT 115EFI lnline 4-cylinder 108.2 (1773) 3.31x3.15 Oil Injection Micro link Electric w/ Suzuki Start System Impeller Pump I Thermostat Controlled
DT140 lnline 4-cylinder 108.2 (1773) 3.31x3.15 Oil Injection Microlink Electric wl Suzuki start System Impeller Pump I Thermostat Controlled
DT140EFI lnline 4-cylinder 108.2 (1773) 3.31x3.15 Oil Injection Micro link Electric w/ Suzuki Start System Impeller Pump /Thermostat Controlled
DT 150EFI V-6 (60') 164.3 (2693) 3.31 X3.19 Oil Injection Microlink Electric wl Suzuki EFI Impeller Pump I Thermostat Controlled
DT200EFI V-6(60') 164.3 (2693) 3.31 X3.19 Oil Injection Microlink Electric wl Suzuki EFI Impeller Pump I Thermostat Controlled
DT225EFI V-6(60') 164.3 (2693) 3.31x3.19 Oil Injection Microlink Electric w/ Suzuki EFI Impeller Pump I Thermostat Controlled
1995 DT2 1-cylinder 3.05 (50) 1.61x1.49 100:1 Pre-Mix Flywheel Magneto Manual wl manual choke Impeller Pump
DT4 1-cylinder 5.5(90) 1.97x 1.81 100:1 Pre-Mix Suzuki P.E.1. Manual wl manual choke Impeller Pump
DT6 lnline 2-cyinder 10.1 (165) 1.97x 1.65 100:1 Pre-Mix Suzuki P.E.I. Manual wl manual choke Impeller Pump
DT8
DT9.9
lnline 2-cylinder
lnline 2-cylinder
12.8 (211)
12.8(211)
2.13x 1.81
2.13x 1.81
Oil Injection
Oil Injection
Suzuki P.E.I.
Suzuki P.E.I.
Manual wl manual choke
Manual w/manual choke
Impeller Pump
Impeller Pump
s:
)>
DT15 lnline 2-cylinder 17.3 (284) 2.32x 2.05 Oil Injection Digital l.C. Manual/Electric wl electric/manual choke Impeller Pump
DT25 lnline 3-cylinder 33.1 (543) 2.44x 2.36 Oil Injection Digital LC. Manual/Electric wl electric/manual choke Impeller Pump z
DT30 lnline 3-cylinder 33.1 (543) 2.44x 2.36 Oil Injection Digital l.C. Manual/Electric w/ electric/manual choke Impeller Pump
-I
DT40 lnline 2-cyinder 42.5 (696) 3.11x2.80 Oil Injection Suzuki P.E.I. Electric/Manual wlmanual/electric choke Impeller Pump
m
DT55
DT65
lnline 3-cylinder
lnline 3-cylinder
54.4(891)
54.4(891)
2.87x 2.80
2.87x 2.80
Oil Injection
Oil Injection
Suzuki P.E.I.
Digilall.C.
Electric w/ electric choke
Impeller Pump /Thermostat Controlled
Impeller Pump I Thermostat Controlled
z
OT75 lnline 3-cyinder 73 (1197) 3.31x2.83 Oil Injection Digital LC. Electric wl electric choke Impeller Pump I Thermostat Controlled
)>
DT85 lnline 3-cylinder 73 (1197) 3.31x2.83 Oil Injection Digital LC. Electric wl electric choke Impeller Pump I Thermostat Controlled z
OT90 V-4(70') 86.6 (1419) 3.31x2.52 Oil Injection Microlink Electric wl Suzuki Start System Impeller Pump I Thermostat Controlled 0
OT 100
OT115
V-4(70')
lnline 4-cylinder
86.6 (1419)
108.2 (1773)
3.31x2.52
3.31x3.15
Oil Injection
Oil Injection
Micro link
Digital 1.C.
Electric w/ Suzuki Start System
m
OT140 lnline 4-cylinder 108.2 (1773) 3.31x3.15 Oil Injection Microlink Electric w/ Suzuki Start System Impeller Pump /Thermostat Controlled
OT 150EFI V-6(60') 164.3 (2693) 3.31 X3.19 Oil Injection Microlink Electric wl Suzuki EFI Impeller Pump I Thermostat Controlled w
I
OT200EFI V-6(60') 164.3 (2693) 3.31 X3.19 Oil Injection Microlink Electric wl Suzuki EFI Impeller Pump I Thermostat Controlled w
OT225EFI V-6(60') 164.3 (2693) 3.31 X3.19 Oil Injection Microlink Electric wl Suzuki EFI Impeller Pump I Thermostat Controlled co
(,.)
General Engine Specifications I
Moctel Engine ---DISPface Bore an<I - Oil lnjectron lgnifforf - Starting Coohng .i:::..
Year {Horsepower) Type cu.in. (cc) Stroke System System System System C>
1994 DT2 1-cylinder 3.05 (50) 1.61x1.49 100:1 Pre-Mix Flywheel· Magneto Manual w/ manual choke Impeller Pump
DT4 1-cylinder 5.5 (90) 1.97x 1.81 100:1 Pre-Mix Suzuki PEJ. Manual w/ manual choke Impeller Pump
DT6
DT8
lnline 2-cylinder
lnline 2-cylinder
10.1 (165)
12.8(211)
1.97x 1.65
2.13x 1.81
100:1 Pre-Mix
Oil Injection
Suzuki P.E.I.
Suzuki P.E.I.
Impeller Pump
Impeller Pump
s::
)>
DT15 lnline 2-cylinder 17.3 (284) 2.32 x 2.05 Oil Injection Digital l.C. Manual/Electric w/ electric/manual choke Impeller Pump z
DT25 lnline 3-cylinder 33.1 (543) 2.44x 2.36 Oil Injection Digitall.C. Manual/Electric w/ electric/manual choke Impeller Pump -I
DT30 lnline 3-cylinder 33.1 (543) 2.44x 2.36 Oil Injection Digitall.C. Manual/Electric w/ electric/manual choke Impeller Pump m
DT40
DT55
lnline 2-cylinder
lnline 3-cylinder
42.5 (696)
54.4 (891)
3.11x2.80
2.87x 2.80
Oil Injection
Oil Injection
Suzuki P.E.I.
Suzuki P.E.I.
Electric/Manual w/ manual/electric choke
Impeller Pump
z
DT 65 lnline 3-cylinder 54.4(891) 2.87 x 2.80 Oil Injection Digital 1.C. Electric w/ electric choke Impeller Pump I Thermostat Controlled
)>
DT75 lnline 3-cylinder 73(1197) 3.31x2.83 Oil Injection Digital l.C. Electric w/ electric choke Impeller Pump I Thennostat Controlled z
DT85 lnline 3-cylinder 73(1197) 3.31x2.83 Oil Injection Digitall.C. Electric w/ electric choke Impeller Pump /Thermostat Controlled ()
DT90
DT100
V-4(70°)
V-4(70°)
86.6 (1419)
86.6 (1419)
3.31x2.52
3.31x2.52
Oil Injection
Oil Injection
Microlink
Microlink
Impeller Pump /Thennostat Controlled
m
DT115 lnline 4-cylinder 108.2 (1773) 3.31x3.15 Oil Injection Digitall.C. Electric w/ electric choke Impeller Pump I Thermostat Controlled
DT140 lnline 4-cylinder 108.2 (1773) 3.31x3.15 Oil Injection Microlink Electric w/ Suzuki Start System Impeller Pump I Thennostat Controlled
DT150 V-6{60°) 164.3 (2693) 3.31x3.19 Oil Injection Micro link Electric wt Suzuki EFI Impeller Pump I Thennostat Controlled
DT 200 EFI V-6 (60°) 164.3 (2693) 3.31x3.19 Oil Injection Microlink Electric w/ Suzuki EFI Impeller Pump I Thennostat Controlled
DT 225EFI V-6(60') 164.3 (2693) 3.31 X3.19 Oil Injection Microlink Electric w/ Suzuki EFI Impeller Pump I Thennostat Controlled
1993 DT2 1-cylinder 3.05 (50) 1.61x1.49 100:1 Pre-Mix Flywheel Magneto Manual w/ manual choke Impeller Pump
DT4 1-cylinder 5.5 (90) 1.97x 1.81 100:1 Pre-Mix Suzuki P.E.1. Manual w/ manual choke Impeller Pump
DT6 lnline 2-cylinder 10.1 (165) 1.97x1.65 100:1 Pre-Mix Suzuki P.E.I. Manual wt manual choke Impeller Pump
DT 8 lnline 2-cylinder 12.8 (211) 2.13x 1.81 Oil Injection Suzuki P.E.I. Manual w/ manual choke Impeller Pump
DT15 lnline 2-cylinder 17.3 (284) 2.32 x 2.05 Oil Injection Digitall.C. Manual/Electric w/ electric/manual choke Impeller Pump
DT25 lnline 3-cylinder 33.1 (543) 2.44x 2.36 Oil Injection Digital l.C. Manual/Electric w/ electric/manual choke knpeller Pump
DT30 lnline 3-cylinder 33.1 (543) 2.44x 2.36 Oil Injection Digital 1.C. Manual/Electric w/ electric/manual choke Impeller Pump
DT40 tnline 2-cylinder 42.5 (696) 3.11 x2.80 Oil Injection Suzuki P.E.I. Electric/Manual wt manual/electric choke Impeller Pump
DT55 lnline 3-cylinder 54.4(891) 2.87 x 2.80 Oil Injection Suzuki P.E.I. Electric w/ electric choke Impeller Pump I Thennostat Controlled
DT65 lnline 3-cylinder 54.4 (891) 2.87 x 2.80 Oil Injection Digitall.C. Electric w/ electric choke Impeller Pump /Thennostat Controlled
DT75 lnline 3-cylinder 73 (1197) 3.31x2.83 Oil Injection Digitall.C. Electric w/ electric choke Impeller Pump /Thermostat Controlled
DT85 lnline 3-cylinder 73 (1197) 3.31 x2.83 Oil Injection Digital 1.C. Electric w/ electric choke Impeller Pump /Thermostat Controlled
DT90 V-4(70') 86.6 (1419) 3.31x2.52 Oil Injection Microlink Electric w/ Suzuki Start System Impeller Pump I Thermostat Controlled
DT100 V-4(70') 86.6 (1419) 3.31x2.52 Oil Injection Microlink Electric w/ Suzuki Start System Impeller Pump /Thermostat Controlled
DT115 lnline 4-cylinder 108.2 (1773) 3.31x3.15 Oil Injection Digitall.C. Electric w/ electric choke Impeller Pump I Thennostat Controlled
DT140 lnline 4-cylinder 108.2 (1773) 3.31x3.15 Oil Injection Micro link Electric w/ Suzuki Start System Impeller Pump /Thennostat Controlled
DT150 V-6 (60') 164.3 (2693) 3.31.X3.19 Oil Injection Micro link Electric w/ Suzuki EFI Impeller Pump /Thennostat Controlled
DT200 V-6 (60') 164.3 (2693) 3.31 X3.19 Oil Injection Micro link Electric wt Suzuki EFI Impeller Pump /Thennostat Controlled
DT 225 EFI V-6(60') 164.3 (2693) 3.31 X3.19 Oil Injection Micro link Electric w/ Suzuki EFI Impeller Pump /Thennostat Controlled
DT4 1-cylinder 5.5 (90) 1.97x 1.81 100:1 Pre·Mix Suzuki P.E.1. Manual w/ manual choke Impeller Pump
DT6 lnline 2-cylinder 10.1 (165) 1.97x 1.65 100:1 Pre·Mix Suzuki P.E.I. Manual w/ manual choke Impeller Pump
DT 8 lnline 2-cylinder 12.8 (211) 2.13x 1.81 Oil Injection Suzuki P.E.I. Manual w/ manual choke Impeller Pump
DT 15 lnline 2-cylinder 17.3 (284) 2.32 x 2.05 Oil Injection Digitall.C. Manual/Electric wt electric/manual choke Impeller Pump
DT25 lnline 3-cylinder 33.1 (543) 2.44x 2.36 Oil Injection Digital l.C. Manual/Electric w/ electric/manual choke Impeller Pump
DT30 lnline 3-cylinder 33.1 (543) 2.44x 2.36 Oil Injection Digitall.C. Manual/Electric w/ electric/manual choke Impeller Pump
DT40 lnline 2-cylinder 42.5 (696) 3.11x2.80 Oil Injection Suzuki P.E.1. Electric/Manual w/ manual/electric choke Impeller Pump
DT55 lnline 3-cylinder 54.4(891) 2.87 x 2.80 Oil Injection Suzuki P.E.I. Electric w/ electric choke Impeller Pump /Thennostat Controlled
DT65 lnline 3-cylinder 54.4(891) 2.87 x 2.80 Oil Injection Digital l.C. Electric wt electric choke Impeller Pump I Thermostat Controlled
DT75 tnline 3-cylinder 73(1197) 3.31x2.83 Oil Injection Digitatl.C. Electric w/ electric choke Impeller Pump /Thermostat Controlled
DT 85 lnline 3-cylinder 73(1197) 3.31x2.83 Oil Injection Digitall.C. Electric w/ electric choke Impeller Pump I Thennostat Controlled
DT90 V-4(70') 86.6 (1419) 3.31x2.52 Oil Injection Micro link Electric w/ Suzuki Start System Impeller Pump I Thennostat Controlled
Model ----- Engine Displace Bore and---- -Oifli'ijeCUon lgn1t1on Starting Coohng
Year (Horsepower) Type cu.in. (cc) Stroke System System System System
1992 DT 100 V-4(70°) 86.6 (1419) 3.31x2.52 Oil Injection Microlink Electric w/ Suzuki Start System Impeller Pump /Thermostat Controlled
DT115 lnline 4-cylinder 108.2 (1773) 3.31 x3.15 Oil Injection Digitall.C. Electric w/ electric choke Impeller Pump I Thermostat Controlled
DT140 lnflne 4-cylinder 108.2 (1773) 3.31x3.15 Oil Injection Micro rink Electric w/ Suzuki Start System Impeller Pump I Thermostat Controlled
DT 150 V-6 (60°) 164.3 (2693) 3-31 X3.19 Oil Injection Microlink Electric w/ Suzuki EFI Impeller Pump I Thermostat Controlled
DT175 V-6(60°) 164.3 (2693) 3.31x3.19 Oil Injection Microlink Electric w/ Suzuki EFI hTipeller Pump I Thermostat Controlled
DT 225 EFI V-6(60°) 164.3 (2693) 3.31 X3.19 Oil Injection Microlink Electric w/ Suzuki EFI Impeller Pump /Thermostat Controlled
DT4 1-cylinder 5.5 (90) 1.97x 1.81 100:1 Pre-Mix Suzuki P.E.I. Manual w/ manual choke Impeller Pump
DT6 lnline 2·cylinder 10.1 (165) 1.97x1.65 100:1 Pre-Mix Suzuki P.E.I. Manual w/ manual choke Impeller Pump
DT8 lnline 2-cylinder 12.8 (211) 2.13x 1.81 Oil Injection Suzuki P.E.I. Manual w/ manual choke Impeller Pump
DT15 lnline 2-cylinder 17.3 (284) 2.32x 2.05 Oil Injection Digitall.C. Manual/Electric w/ electricknanual choke Impeller Pump
DT25 lnline 3-cylinder 33.1 (543) 2.44x 2.36 Oil Injection Digitall.C. Manual/Electric w/ electrichnanual choke Impeller Pump
DT 30 lnline 3-cylinder 33.1 (543) 2.44x 2.36 Oil Injection Digitall.C. Manual/Electric w/ electricknanual choke Impeller Pump
DT 40 lnline 2-cylinder 42.5 (696) 3.11 x2.80 Oil Injection Suzuki P.E.1. ElectricJManual w/ manuaUelectric choke Impeller Pump
DT 55 lnline 3-cylinder 54.4(891) 2.87x 2.80 Oil Injection Suzuki P.E.I. Electric w/ electric choke Impeller Pump /Thermostat Controlled
DT 65 lnline 3-cylinder 54.4(891) 2.87x 2.80 Oil Injection Digitall.C. Electric w/ electric choke Impeller Pump I Thermostat Controlled
DT75 lnline 3-cylinder 73(1197) 3.31x2.83 Oil Injection Digitall.C_ Electric w/ electric choke Impeller Pump I Thermostat Controlled
DT85 lnline 3-cylinder 73(1197) 3.31x2.83 Oil Injection Digital l.C. Electric w/ electric choke Impeller Pump /Thermostat Controlled
OT 115 lnline 4-cylinder 108.2 (1773) 3.31x3.15 Oil Injection Digitall.C. Electric w/ electric choke Impeller Pump /Thermostat Controlled
DT140 lnline 4-cylinder 108.2 (1773) 3.31x3.15 Oil Injection Microlink Electric w/ Suzuki Start System Impeller Pump /Thermostat Controlled
OT 150 V-6 (60°) 164.3 (2693) 3.31 X3.19 Oil Injection Microlink Electric w/ Suzuki EFI Impeller Pump I Thermostat Controlled
DT175 V-6 (60°) 164.3 (2693) 3.31x3.19 Oil Injection Microlink Electric w/ Suzuki EFI Impeller Pump /Thermostat Controlled
DT200 V-6 (60°) 164.3 (2693) 3.31 X3.19 Oil Injection Microlink Electric w/ Suzuki EFI Impeller Pump I Thermostat Controlled
DT225EFI V-6 (60°) 164.3 (2693) 3.31 X3.19 Oil Injection Micro link Electric w/ Suzuki EFI Impeller Pump /Thermostat Controlled
DT 4 1-cylinder 5.5 (90) 1.97x 1.81 100:1 Pre-Mix Suzuki P.E.I. Manual w/ manual choke Impeller Pump
DT6 lnline 2-cylinder 10.1 (165) 1.97x1.65 100:1 Pre-Mix Suzuki P.E.I. Manual w/ manual choke Impeller Pump
OT 15 lnline 2-cylinder 17.3 (284) 2_32x 2.05 Oil Injection Digitall.C. Manual/Electric w/ electrichnanual choke Impeller Pump
DT25 lnline 3-cylinder 33.1 (543) 2.44x 2.36 Oil Injection D°lgital l.C. Manual/Electric w/ electrichnanual choke Impeller Pump
OT 30 lnline 3-cylinder 33.1 (543) 2.44x 2.36 Oil Injection Digital l.C. Manual/Electric w/ electric/manual choke Impeller Pump
OT 40 lnline 2-cylinder 42.5 (696) 3.11x2.80 Oil Injection Suzuki P.E.I. Electric/Manual w/ manual/electric choke Impeller Pump
OT 55 lnline 3-cylinder 54.4(891) 2.87x 2.80 Oil Injection Suzuki P.E.I. Electric w/ electric choke Impeller Pump /Thermostat Controlled
DT65 lnline 3-cylinder 54.4(891) 2.87 x 2.80 Oil Injection Digital 1.C. Electric w/ electric choke Impeller Pump /Thermostat Controlled
DT75 lnline 3-cylinder 73 (1197) 3.31x2.83 Oil Injection Digitall.C. Electric w/ electric choke Impeller Pump I Thermostat Controlled
OT 85 lnline 3-cylinder 73(1197) 3.31x2_83 Oil Injection Digitall.C_ Electric w/ electric choke Impeller Pump I Thermostat Controlled
DT90
OT 100
V-4(70°)
V-4 (70°)
86.6 (1419)
86.6 (1419)
3.31x2.52
3:31x2.52
Oil Injection
Oil Injection
Microlink
Microlink
:s::
)>
DT115 lnline 4-cylinder 108.2 (1773) 3.31 x3.15 Oil Injection Digital l.C. Electric w/ electric choke Impeller Pump I Thermostat Controlled
OT 140
DT150
lnline 4-cylinder
V-6(60°)
108.2 (1773)
164.3 (2693)
3.31 x3.15
3.31x3.19
Oil Injection
Oil Injection
Microlink
Microlink
Electric w/ Suzuki EFI
z
-I
OT 175
DT200
V-6(60°)
V-6(60°)
164.3 (2693)
164.3 (2693)
3.31x3.19
3.31 X3.19
Oil Injection
Oil Injection
Microlink
Microlink
m
DT225 V-6(60°) 164.3 (2693) 3.31 X3.19 Oil Injection Microlink Electric w/ Suzuki EFI
Impeller Pump I Thermostat Controlled z
1989 DT2 1-cylinder 3.05 (50) 1.61x1.49 100:1 Pre-Mix Flywheel Magneto Manual w/ manual choke Impeller Pump )>
DT4 1-cylinder
lnline 2-cylinder
5.5(90)
10.1 (165)
1.97x 1.81
1.97x1.65
100:1 Pre-Mix
100:1 Pre-Mix
Suzuki P.E.I.
Suzuki P.E.I.
Manual w/ manual choke Impeller Pump z
DT6
lnline 2-cylinder 12.8(211) 2.13x1.81 Oil Injection Suzuki P.E.I.
Impeller Pump
0
OTB
DT9.9 lnline 2-cylinder 12.8 (211) 2.13x 1.81 Oil Injection Suzuki P.E.I. Manual w/ manual choke
Impeller Pump
Impeller Pump m
DT15 lnline 2-cylinder 17.3 (284) 2.32 x 2.05 Oil Injection Digital l.C. Manual/Electric w/ electrichnanual choke Impeller Pump
DT25
DT30
lnline 3-cylinder
lnline 3-cylinder
33.1 (543)
33.1 (543)
2.44x 2.36
2.44x 2.36
Oil Injection
Oil Injection
Digital LC.
Digital 1.C.
Manual/Electric w/ electrichnanual choke
Manual!Elec!ric w/ electnchnanual choke
Impeller Pump
Impeller Pump
wI
.....
.s;:::..
General Engine Specifications wI
MoaeT Engine Displace Boreand- OllTr\ject1on -Ignition starting cooling .s::..
Year (Horsepower) Type cu.in. (cc) Stroke System System System System I\,)
1989 DT35 lnline 3-cylinder 42.5(696) 2.44x 2.36 Oil Injection Suzuki P.E.I. Manual/Electric w/ electric/manual choke Impeller Pump I Thennostat Controlled
DT40 lnline 2-cylinder 42.5 (696) 3.11x2.80 Oil Injection Suzuki P.E.I. Electric/Manual w/ manual/electric choke Impeller Pump
DT55 lnline 3-cylinder 54.4 (891) 2.87x 2.80 Oil Injection Suzuki P.E.1. Electric w/ electric choke Impeller Pump I Thennostat Controlled
~
DT65 lnline 3-cylinder 54.4 (891) 2.87x 2.80 Oil Injection Digitall.C. Electric w/ electric choke Impeller Pump I Thennostat Controlled
)>
DT75 lnline 3-cylinder 73(1197) 3.31x2.83 Oil Injection Digitall.C. Electric w/ electric choke Impeller Pump /Thennostat Controlled z
DT85 lnline 3-cylinder 73(1197) 3.31x2.83 Oil Injection Digitall.C. Electric w/ electric choke Impeller Pump /Thennostat Controlled -I
DT90 V-4(70') 86.6 (1419) 3.31x2.52 Oil Injection Micro link Electric w/ Suzuki Start System Impeller Pump I Thennostat Controlled m
DT100 V-4(70') 86.6 (1419) 3.31x2.52 Oil Injection Microlink Electric w/ Suzuki Start System Impeller Pump I Thennostat Controlled z
DT115 lnline 4-cylinder 108.2 (1773) 3.31x3.15 Oil Injection Digitall.C. Electric w/ electric choke Impeller Pump I Thennostat Controlled )>
DT140
DT150
lnline 4-cylinder
V-6(60')
108.2 (1773)
164.3 (2693)
3.31x3.15
3.31 X3.19
Oil Injection
Oil Injection
Microlink
Microlink
z
0
DT175
DT200
V-6(60')
V-6(60')
164.3 (2693)
164.3 (2693)
3.31x3.19
3.31 X3.19
Oil Injection
Oil Injection
Micro link
Micro link
Impeller Pump I Thennostat Controlled
Impeller Pump I Thennostat Controlled
m
1988 DT2 1-cylinder 3.1 (50) 1.61x1.5 100:1 Pre-Mix Suzuki P.E.I. Manual w/ manual choke Impeller Pump
DT4 1-cylinder 5.5(90) 1.97x 1.81 100:1 Pre-Mix Suzuki P.E.I. Manual w/ manual choke Impeller Pump
DT6 lnline 2-cylinder 10.1 (165) 1.97x 1.65 100:1 Pre-Mix Suzuki P.E.I. Manual w/ manual choke Impeller Pump
DT20 lnline 2-cylinder 27.1 (444) 2.64x 2.48 100:1 Pre-Mix Suzuki P.E.I. Manual w/ manual choke Impeller Pump I Thennostat Controlled
DT25 lnline 3-cylinder 33.1 (543) 2.44x 2.36 Oil Injection Suzuki P.E.I. Manual/Electric w/ electric/manual choke Impeller Pump
DT35 lnline 3-cylinder 42.5 (696) 2.44x 2.36 Oil Injection Suzuki P.E.1. Manual/Electric w/ electric/manual choke Impeller Pump I Thennostat Controlled
DT40 lnline 2-cylinder 42.5 (696) 3.11x2.80 Oil Injection Suzuki P.E.I. Electric/Manual w/ manual/electric choke Impeller Pump
DT55 lnline 3-cylinder 54.4 (891) 2.87 x 2.80 Oil Injection Digitall.C. Electric w/ electric choke Impeller Pump I Thennostat Controlled
DT65 lnline 3-cylinder 54.4 (891) 2.87x 2.80 Oil Injection Digital l.C. Electric w/ electric choke Impeller Pump I Thennostat Controlled
DT75 lnline 3-cylinder 73(1197) 3.31x2.83 Oil Injection Digitall.C. Electric w/ electric choke Imp ell er Pump I Thennostat Controlled
DT85 lnline 3-cylinder 73 (1197) 3.31x2.83 Oil Injection Digital l.C. Electric w/ electric choke Impeller Pump I Thennostat Controlled
DT115 lnline 4-cylinder 108.2 (1773) 3.31 x3.15 Oil Injection Digitall.C. Electric w/ electric choke Impeller Pump I Thennostat Controlled
DT140 lnline 4-cylinder 108.2 (1773) 3.31x3.15 Oil Injection Dig~al l.C. Electric w/ electric choke Impeller Pump /Thennostat Controlled
DT150 V-6(60') 164.3 (2693) 3.31 X3.19 Oil Injection Digitall.C. Electric w/ Suzuki Start System Impeller Pump I Thennostat Controlled
OT 175 V-6(60') 164.3 (2693) 3.31x3.19 Oil Injection Digitall.C. Electric w/ Suzuki Start System Impeller Pump I Thennostat Controlled
DT200 V-6(60') 164.3 (2693) 3.31 X3.19 Oil Injection Digitall.C. Electric w/ Suzuki Start System Impeller Pump I Thennostat Controlled
Serial Number Identification
Parts Serial No. Sales Parts Serial No. Sales Model Designation
Model Designation
------- - --· ---·~--- --·- -··-··· -- - --·;::J··--·-·· ------- ·- ···---- . --- - ---~-------- ---------- - --..,-
DT2 1988 VJ 8)()()()()( J DT2SJ DT20 1988 VJ 8XXXXX J DT 20 ESJ
1989 VK 9)()()()()( K DT2SK DT25 1990 VL 011)()()( L DT25 CESL
1990 VL 011)()()( L DT2LL 1991 VM 131)()()( M DT25CESM
1991 VM 131XXX M DT2SM 1992 VN 231)()()( N OT 25 CESN
1992 VN 231)()()( N DT2SN 351)()()( p DT25 CELP
1993 VP
1993 VP 351XXX p DT2SP
1994 VR 461)()()( R DT25CUR
1994 VR 461XXX R DT2SR
1995 vs 581XXX s DT2SS 1995 vs 581)()()( s DT 25 CELS
1996 VT 651)()()( T DT2ST 1996 VT 651)()()( T DT 25 CEST
1997 w 751)()()( v DT2.2SV 1997 w 751)()()( v DT25CESV
DT2.2 1997 sv xxxxxx DT2.2SV 1998 WW 861)()()( w DT25CESW
DT4 1988 VJ 8)()()()()( J DT4LJ 1999- 2000 xx 971XXX x DT25CESX
1989 VK 9)()()()()( K DT 4LK DT30 1988 VJ 8XXXXX J DT30MCLJ
1990 VL 011)()()( L DT 4LL 1989 VK 9XXXXX K DT 30 CESK
1991 VM 131XXX M DT 4LM 1990 VL 011)()()( L DT 30 CESL
1992 VN 231 )()()( N DT4LN 1991 VM 131)()()( M DT30MCLM
1993 VP 351)()()( p DT4LP
1992 VN 231)()()( N DT 30 MCLN
1994 VR 461)()()( R DT 4LR p

1993 VP 351)()()( DT 30 MCLP
1995 vs 581)()()( s DT4LS
1994 VR 461)()()( R DT30MCLR
1996 VT 651)()()( T DT4LT
1997 w 751XXX v DT 4LV 1995 vs 581)()()( s DT 30MCLS
1998 WW 861)()()( w DT4LW 1996 VT 651)()()( T DT30MCLT
DT5Y 1998 vw xxxxxx w DT5YW 1997 w 751)()()( v DT30CRSV
1999-2002 vx xxxxxx x RT5YX DT35 1966 VJ 8XXXXX J DT35CRSJ
DT6 1988 VJ 8XXXXX J DT6SJ 1969 VK 9XXXXX K OT 35 CRSK
1989 VK 9)()()()()( K DT6SK OT40 1969 VK 9XXXXX K OT 40 CELK
1990 VL 011)()()( L DT6SL 1990 VL 011)()()( L OT 40 CELL
1991 VM 131XXX M DT6SM 131)()()( M OT 40CRSM
1991 VM
1992 VN 231)()()( N DT6SN
1992 VN 231)()()( N DT 40CRSN
1993 VP 351XYX p DT6SP
1993 VP 351)()()( p OT40CRSP
1994 VR 461XXX R DT6SR
1994 VR 461)()()( R OT 40CRSR
1995 VS 581)()()( s DT6SS
1996 VT 651)()()( T DT6ST 1995 VS 561)()()( s OT 40CRSS
1997 w 751XXX v DT6SV 1996 VT 651)()()( T OT 40CRST
1998 WW 851)()()( w DT6SW 1997 w 751)()()( v OT 40 CRSV
1999 -2002 xx 971)()()( x DT6SX 1998 WW 861)()()( w OT40CRSW
DT8 1988 VJ 8)()()()()( J DT 8 CSJ OT55 1988 VJ 8XXXXX J OT 55 TCLJ
1989 VK 9XXXXX K DT 8 CLK 1989 VK 9XXXXX K OT 55 TCLK
1990 VL 011XXX L DT 8 CLL 1990 VL 011)()()( L DT 55 TCLL
1991 VM 131)()()( M DT 8 CSM
1991 VM 131)()()( M OT 55 TCLM
1992 VN 231)()()( N DT8MCSN
1992 VN 231)()()( N OT 55TCLN
1993 VP 351XXX p DT8MCSP
1993 VP 351)()()( p OT 55 TCLP
1994 VR 461XXX R DT8MCSR
1995 vs 581)()()( s DT 8MCSS 1994 VR 461)()()( R DT 55 TCLR
1996 VT 651XXX T DT 8MCST 1995 VS 581)()()( s OT 55 TCLS
1997 w 751XXX v DTBMCSV 1996 VT 651)()()( T OT55TCLT
DT9.9 1988
1989
VJ
VK
8)()()()()(
9)()()()()(
J
K
DT9.9CESJ
DT9.9CELK OT65
1997
1988
w
VJ
751)()()(
6XXXXX
v
J
OT55 TCLV
OT 65 CRLJ
~
1990 VL 011)()()( L DT9.9 CESL 1989 VK 9XXXXX K OT 65 TCLK
)>
1991
1992
VM
VN
131)()()(
231)()()(
M
N
DT 9.9CESM
DT9.9 CESN
1990
1991
VL
VM
011)()()(
131)()()(
L
M
OT 65 TCLL
OT65TCLM
z
1993 VP 351)()()( p DT9.9 CELP
1992 VN 231)()()( N DT 65 TCLN -I
1994
1995
VR
vs
461)()()( R
s
DT9.9 CELR
1993 VP 351)()()( p DT 65 TCLP m
1996 VT
581XXX
651)()()( T
DT 9.9 CELS
DT9.9CELT 1994
1995
VR
vs
461)()()(
581)()()(
R
s
DT 65 TCLR
OT 65 TCLS
z
1997 w 751)()()( v DT9.9 CELV
1996 VT 651)()()( T OT 65 TCLT
)>
DT15 1988
1989
VJ
VK
8)()()()()(
9XXXXX
J
K
DT15MLJ
DT 15 CESK 1997 w 751)()()( v OT 65 TCLV z
1990 VL 011)()()( L DT 15 CESL ()
1991
1992
1993
VM
VN
131)()()(
231)()()(
351XXX
M
N
p
DT15CESM
DT 15 CESN m
VP DT15MCLP
461)()()(
1994
1995
VR
vs 581)()()(
R
s
DT 15 CESR
DT 15 CESS w
I
1996 VT 651)()()( T DT 15MCLT
1997 w 751XXX v DT 15MCLV ~
w
w
I
Parts serial No. Sales Model Designation
Parts Serial No. Sales Model Designation ~
-··--·-- . --- ----,,-----·-·· -··-···.-·- - --·::r·--·-•• ------- ... -- ~
DT14D 1988 VJ 8)()()()()( J DT 14DTCLJ
OT75 1988 VJ 8)()()()()( J OT75TCLJ
1989 VK 9)()()()()( K OT14DTCLK
1989 VK 9)()()()()( K OT 75 TCLK
1990
1991
VL
VM
011XXX
131)()()(
L
M
OT75TCLL
OT75TCLM
1990
1991
1992
VL
VM
VN
011)()()(
131)()()(
231)()()(
L
M
N
DT 14DTCLL
DT 140TCLM
OT 14DTCLN
s:::
)>
1992 VN 231 )()()( N OT 75TCLN
1993 VP 351XXX p DT 14DTCLP
1993
1994
VP
VR
351)()()(
461)()()(
p
R
OT75TCLP
OT75TCLR
1994 VR 461XXX R
s
DT 14DTCLR z
1995 vs 581XXX s OT75TCLS
1995 VS 581)()()( DT 14DTCLS
-I
1996 VT 651)()()( T OT75TCLT
1996
1997
VT
w
651)()()(
751)()()(
T
v
DT 14DTCLT
DT 14DTCLV m
OT85
1997
1988
w
VJ
751)()()(
8)()()()()( J
v OT 75TCLV
OT85TCLJ
1998 WW
xx
861)()()(
971)()()(
w
x
DT 14DTCLW z
1989 VK 9)()()()()( K OT 85TCLK
1999
y
DT14DTCLX
DT 14DTC
)>
1990
1991
VL
VM
011)()()(
131)()()(
L
M
OT85TCLL
OT85TCLM
DT150
2000-2001
1988
TC
VJ
)()()()()()(
8)()()()()( J DT 150TCXJ z
1989 VK 9)()()()()( K DT 150TCXK
0
1992 VN 231)()()( N OT 85TCLN

1993 VP 351)()()( p OT85TCLP
1990
1991
VL
VM
011XXX
131XXX
L
M
DT 150TCXL
DT 150TCXM m
1994 VR 461)()()( R OT 85TCLR 1992 VN 231)()()( N DT 150TCXN
1995 vs 581XXX s OT 85TCLS 1993 VP 351XXX p DT150TCXP
1996 VT 651)()()( T OT 85TCLT 1994 VR 461XXX R DT 150TCXR
1997 w 751XXX v OT 85 TCLV 1995 vs 581XXX s DT150TCXGS
1998 WW 861XXX w OT85TCLW 1996 VT 651)()()( T DT 150TCXGT
1999-2000 xx 971)()()( x OT85TCLX 1997 w 751)()()( v DT 150TCXGV
OT90 1989 VK 9)()()()()( K OT90TCLK 1998 WW 861XXX w DT 150TCXGW
1990 VL 011XXX L OT90TCLL 1999-2003 xx 971)()()( x DT 150TCXX
1992 VN 231)()()( N OT 90TCLN DT175 1988 VJ 8)()()()()( J DT 175TCXJ
1993 VP 351XXX p OT90TCLP 1989 VK 9XXXXX K DT 175TCXK
1994 VR 461)()()( R OT 90TCLR 1990 VL 011XXX L DT 175TCXL
1995 vs 581)()()( s OT 90TCLS 1991 VM 131)()()( M DT 175 TCXM
1996 VT 651)()()( T DT90TCLT 1992 VN 231)()()( N DT175TCXN
1997 w 751XXX v DT90TCLV DT200 1988 VJ 8XXXXX J DT 200TCXJ
DT100 1989 VK 9)()()()()( K DT 100TCXK 1989 VK 9)()()()()( K DT 200TCXK
1990 VL 011XXX L DTIOOTCXL 1990 VL 011)()()( L DT200TCXGL
1992 VN 231)()()( N DT100TCLN 1991 VM 131)()()( M DT200TCXGM
1993 VP 351XXX p OT 100TCLP 1992 VN 231)()()( N DT 200TCXN
461)()()( 1993 VP 351)()()( p DT200TCXP
1994 VR R DT100TCLR
1995 vs 581XXX s OT 100TCLS 1994 VR 461XXX R DT 200TCXR
1996 VT 651)()()( T OT 100TCLT 1995 vs 581XXX s DT 200TCXS
1997 w 751XXX v OT 100TCLV 1996 VT 651)()()( T OT 200TCXT
1998-2000 WW 861)()()( w OT100TCLW 1997 w 751)()()( v OT200TCXV
OT115 1988 VJ 8)()()()()( J OT 115TCXJ
1998 WW 861)()()( w DT200TCXW
1989 VK 9)()()()()( K OT115TCXK
1999-2000 xx 971XXX x DT 200TCXX
DT225 1990 VL 011XXX L OT 225TCXL
1990 VL 011XXX L OT115TCXL
131)()()( OT 115TCXM. 1991 VM 131XXX M OT225TCXM
1991 VM M
1992 VN 231)()()( N DT225TCXN
1992 VN 231XXX N OT 115TCXN
1993 VP 351)()()( p DT225 TCXP
1993 VP 351)()()( p DT 115TCXP
1994 VR 461)()()( R DT 225 TCXR
1994 VR 461XXX R DT115TCXR
vs
1995 vs 581XXX s DT 225TCXS
1995 581XXX s OT 115TCXS
1996 VT 651)()()( T DT 225TCXT
1996 VT 651XXX T DT115TCXT
1997 w 751XXX v DT 225 TCXV
1997 w 751)()()( v OT115TCXV 1998 WW 861)()()( w DT225TCXW
1998 WW 861)()()( w DT 115STCLW 1999-2003 xx 971)()()( x DT 225 TCXX
1999 xx 971XXX x DT115STCLX Note: Last letter of model designation indicates model year. A!! other letters are identified as follows:
2000-2001 TC lOOOCXX y DT 115 STC C = Oil Injection H = Ti!!er Control N =Sail S;15"Shaft X"25"Shaft
E = Electric Start L = 20• Shaft PU = Jet Propultion System SS= Super Six
G =Counter Rotation M =Manual Start R=Remote Control T=TiltandTrim
MAINTENANCE 3-45
Maintenance Interval Chart -
'
.' ' '
I M0 d eI 5 6 8 9.9 15
2 2 2 4 5Y 20 25 28 an d Eany
' ' 'Every
' ' '
First Every Off
Component 1mth/10hrs 3mths/50hrs 6mths/100hrs Season
Bolts and nuts T T T
Spark plugs C&A C&A
Wire harness I I
Starter Motor Brush Length I
Ignition timing C&A C&A
Carburetor C&A C&A C&A
Gear oil R R R
Pistons, cylinder and head De-Carbon
Propeller I I
Choke I I
Fuel tank I
Fuel strainer I I
Fuel hoses I I I
Water pump I I
Handle L L&A L
Clutch lever L L
Starter rope I
Tilt A
Neutral start interlock switch I
Zinc Anodes I I
A-Adjust C-Clean I-Inspect and Clean, Adjust, Lubricate or Replace
L-Lubricate R-Replace T-Tighten

DT35, DT40, DT55, DT65, DT75, DT85, DT90 and DT100
First Every Every Off
Spark plugs I I
Wiring harness and connector I I I
Starter motor brushes I I
Ignition timing I I
N.S.I. switch I I I
Ignition switch I I I
Battery I I
Vapor separator I I I
Fuel filter I I
Fuel hose and clip I I I
Oil pump I
Oil hose and clip I I I
Oil filter {oil flow sensor) After oil flow caution system is activated
Gear oil R R R
Oil check valve I
Lubrication I I
Water hose I I
Water pump - I
Water pump impeller R
Zinc anode I I
Remote control I I I
Power trim and tilt I I I
Propeller I I
Propeller nut T T T
Bolts {cyL head, exhaust cover etc.) T T T

3-46 MAINTENANCE
DT25, DT30 and Late Model DTS, DT6, DT8, DT9.9, DT15
Component 1mth/10hrs 3mths/50hrs 6mths/1 OOhrs Season
Carburetor I I I
Piston, cylinder and cylinder head I I
Spark plugs C&A C&A
Fuel line I I I
Fuel filter I
Oil pump
Oil filter R I
Oil line I I
Lubrication I I
Wire harness I I I
Starter motor I I
Emergency switch I I I
Ignition switch and choke solenoid I I I
Battery I I
Propeller I I
Protection zinc and trim tab I I
Gear oil R R R
Water pump I I

DT115, DT140, DT150, DT175, DT200 and DT225
Spark plugs I I
Wiring harness and connector I I I
Starter motor brushes I I
Ignition timing I I
N.S.I. switch I I I
Ignition switch I I I
Battery I I
Vapor separator I I I
Fuel filter I I
Fuel hose and clip I I I
Oil pump I
Oil hose and clip I I I
Oil filter (oil flow sensor) After oil flow caution system is activated
Gear oil R R R
Oil check valve I
Lubrication I I
Water hose I I
Water pump I
Water pump impeller R
Zinc anode I I
Power trim and tilt I I I
Propeller I I
Propeller nut T T T
Bolts (cyl. head, exhaust cover etc.) T T T
A-AdJust C-Clean I-Inspect and Clean, Adjust, Lubricate or Replace

FUEL AND COMBUSTION 4-2 REED VALVE SERVICE 4-25
FUEL4-2 DT2, DT2.2 4-25
RECOMMENDATIONS 4-2 REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 4-25
OCTANE RATING 4-2 ALL OTHER MODELS 4-25
VAPOR PRESSURE AND ADDITIVES 4-2 REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 4-26
THE BOTTOM LINE WITH FUELS 4-2 INSPECTION & CLEANING 4-26
HIGH ALTITUDE OPERATION 4-2 REED & REED STOP REPLACEMENT 4-26
ALCOHOL-BLENDED FUELS 4-2 FUEL PUMP SERVICE 4-27
COMBUSTION 4-3 DIAPHRAGM TYPE FUEL PUMPS 4-27
ABNORMAL COMBUSTION 4-3 DESCRIPTION & OPERATION 4-27
FACTORS AFFECTING COMBUSTION 4-3 REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 4-27
FUEL SYSTEM 4-3 OVERHAUL 4-27
CARBURETION 4-3 ELECTRONIC FUEL INJECTION 4-32
GENERAL INFORMATION 4-3 DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION 4-32
CARBURETOR CIRCUITS 4-4 FUEL INJECTION BASICS 4-32
BASIC FUNCTIONS 4-5 SUZUKI ELECTRONIC FUEL INJECTION 4-
DUAL-THROAT CARBURETORS 4-6 32
REMOVING FUEL FROM THE SYSTEM 4-6 CYLINDER WALL TEMPERATURE SENSOR 4-
FUEL PUMP 4-6 36
TROUBLESHOOTING 4-7 DESCRIPTION &OPERATION 4-36
FUEL SYSTEM 4-7 TESTING 4-38
LOGICAL TROUBLESHOOTING 4-7 REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 4-39
COMMON PROBLEMS 4-8 AIR TEMPERATURE SENSOR 4-39
FUEL PUMP 4-8 DESCRIPTION & OPERATION 4-39
FUEL LINE 4-9 TESTING 4-39
COMMON PROBLEMS 4-10 REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 4-39
COMBUSTION RELATED PISTON FAILURES ATMOSPHERIC PRESSURE SENSOR 4-39
4-10 DESCRIPTION & OPERATION 4-39
CARBURETOR SERVICE 4-11 TESTING 4-39
DT2 AND DT2.2 4-11 REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 4-39
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 4-11 THROTTLE VALVE SENSOR 4-40
DISASSEMBLY 4-11 DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION 4-40
CLEANING & INSPECTION 4-12 TESTING 4-40
ASSEMBLY 4-12 ADJUSTMENT 4-42
DT4AND DT5Y 4-13 REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION 4-45
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 4-13 GEAR COUNTER COIL (ENGINE SPEED
DISASSEMBLY 4-13 SENSOR) 4-45
CLEANING & INSPECTION 4-13 DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION 4-45
ASSEMBLY 4-14 TESTING 4-45
DT6 AND 1988 DT8 4-14 PULSER COIL 4-45
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 4-14 DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION 4-45
DISASSEMBLY 4-14 TESTING 4-45
CLEANING & INSPECTION 4-15 FUEL INJECTORS 4-45
ASSEMBLY 4-15 DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION 4-45
DT9.9, DT15 AND 1989-97 DT8 4-15 TESTING 4-45
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 4-15 FUEL PRESSURE REGULATOR 4-46
CLEANING & INSPECTION 4-16 REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION 4-47
ASSEMBLY 4-17 HIGH PRESSURE FUEL PUMP 4-47
DT20 TO DT85, DT115 AND DT140 4-17 TESTING 4-48
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 4-19 ADDITIONAL INPUTS 4-48
DISASSEMBLY 4-20 SELF DIAGNOSTIC SYSTEM 4-48
CLEANING & INSPECTION 4-21 DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION 4-48
ASSEMBLY 4-21 DIAGNOSIS PROCEDURE 4-49
V4 & V6 POWERHEADS 4-22 FAIL SAFE EMERGENCY BACKUP 4-49
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 4-23 SPECIFICATIONS 12-5
DISASSEMBLY 4-24 CARBURETOR SPECIFICATIONS
FUEL LEVEL TEST 4-24 (DT4 THRU DT85) 12-5
CLEANING & INSPECTION 4-25 CARBURETOR SPECIFICATIONS
ASSEMBLY 4-25 (DT90 THRU DT200) 12-6

4-2 FUEL SYSTEM
I FUEL AND COMBUSTION
Fuel vapor pressure is a measure of how easily a fuel sample evaporates.
Fuel Many additives used in gasoline contain aromatics. Aromatics are light hydro-
carbons distilled off the top of a crude oil sample. They are effective at increas-
RECOMMENDATIONS ing the research octane of a fuel sample, but can cause vapor lock on a very hot
day. If you have an inconsistent running engine and you suspect vapor lock, use
Reformulated gasoline fuels are now found in many market areas. Current test- a piece of clear fuel line to look for bubbles, indicating that the fuel is vaporiz-
ing indicates no particular problems with using this fuel. Shelf life is shorter and, ing.
because of the oxygenates, a slight leaning out at idle may be experienced. This One negative side effect of aromatics is that they create additional combus-
slightly lean condition can be compensated for by adjusting idle mixture screws. tion products such as carbon and varnish. If your engine requires high octane
Fuel recommendations have become more complex as the chemistry of modern fuel to prevent detonation, de-carbon the engine more frequently with an
gasoline changes. The major driving force behind the changes in gasoline chem- internal engine cleaner to prevent ring sticking due to excessive varnish
istry is the search for additives to replace lead as an octane booster and lubricant. buildup.
These new additives are governed by the types of emissions they produce in the Besides aromatics, two types of alcohol are used in fuel today as octane
combustion process. Also, the replacement additives do not always provide the boosters, ethanol and methanol. Again, alcohol tends to raise the research
same level of combustion stability, making afuel's octane rating less meaningful. octane of the fuel. This usually means they will have limited benefit in an out-
In the search for new fuel additives, automobiles are used as the test board motor. Also, alcohol contains oxygen, which means that since it is replac-
medium. Not one high performance two cycle engine was tested in the process ing gasoline without oxygen content, alcohol fuel blends cause the fuel-air
of determining the chemistry of today's gasoline. mixture to be leaner.
In the 1960's and 1970's, leaded fuel was common. The lead served two
functions. The lead served as an octane booster (combustion stabilizer) and, in THE BOTTOM LINE WITH FUELS
four cycle engines, served as a valve seat lubricant. For two cycle engines, the
primary benefit of lead was to serve as a combustion stabilizer. Lead served very If we could buy fuel of the correct octane rating, free of alcohol and aromat-
well for this purpose, even in high heat applications. ics, this would be our first choice.
Today, all lead has been removed from the gasoline process. This means that Suzuki continues to recommend unleaded fuel. This is almost a redundant
the benefit of lead as an octane booster has been eliminated. Several substitute recommendation due to the near universal unavailability of any other type fuel.
octane boosters have been introduced in the place of lead. While many are ade- According to the fuel recommendations that come with your outboard, there
quate in an automobile, most do not perform nearly as well as lead did, even is no engine in the product line that requires more than 89 octane. Most Suzuki
though the octane rating of the fuel is the same. engines need only 86 octane or less. An 89 octane rating generally means mid-
dle grade unleaded. Premium unleaded is more stable under severe conditions,
OCTANE RATING but also produces more combustion products. Therefore, when using premium
unleaded, more frequent de-carboning is necessary.
A fuel's octane rating is a measurement of how stable the fuel is when heat is Regardless of the fuel octane rating you choose, try to stay with a name
introduced. Octane rating is a major consideration when deciding whether a fuel brand fuel. You never know for sure what kinds of additives or how much is in
is suitable for a particular application. For example, in an engine, we want the off brand fuel.
fuel to ignite when the spark plug fires and not before, even under high pressure
and temperatures. Once the fuel is ignited, it must burn slowly and smoothly, HIGH ALTITUDE OPERATION
even though heat and pressure are building up while the burn occurs. The
unburned fuel should be ignited by the traveling flame front, not by some other At elevated altitudes there is less oxygen in the atmosphere than at sea
source of ignition, such as carbon deposits or the heat from the expanding level. Less oxygen means lower combustion efficiency and less power output.
gasses. A fuel's octane rating is known as a measurement of the fuel's anti- Power output is reduced three percent for every thousand feet above sea level.
knock properties (ability to burn without exploding). At ten thousand feet, power is reduced 30 percent from that available at sea
Usually a fuel with a higher octane rating can be subjected to a more severe level.
combustion environment before spontaneous or abnormal combustion occurs. Re-jetting for high altitude does not restore this lost power. Re-jetting simply
To understand how two gasoline samples can be different, even though they corrects the air-fuel ratio for the reduced air density, and makes the most of the
have the same octane rating, we need to know how octane rating is determined. remaining available power. If you re-jet an engine, you are locked into the
The American Society of Testing and Materials (ASTM) has developed a uni- higher elevation. You cannot operate at sea level until you re-jet for sea level.
versal method of determining the octane rating of a fuel sample. The octane rat- Understand that going below the elevation jetted for your motor will damage the
ing you see on the pump at a gasoline station is known as the pump octane engine. As a general rule, jet for the lowest elevation anticipated. Spark plug
number. Look at the small print on the pump. The rating has a formula. The rat- insulator tip color is the best guide for high altitude jetting.
ing is determined by the R+M/2 method. If you are in an area of known poor fuel quality, you may want to use fuel
Therefore, the number you see on the pump is the average of two other additives. Today's additives are mostly alcohol and aromatics, and their effec-
octane ratings. tiveness may be limited. It is difficult to find additives without ethanol,
The Research Octane Reading is a measure of a fuel's anti-knock properties methanol, or aromatics. If you use octane boosters frequent de-carboning may
under a light load, or part throttle conditions. During this test, combustion heat be necessary. If possible, the best policy is to use name brand pump fuel with
is easily dissipated. no additional additives except Suzuki fuel conditioner and Ring-Free•.
The Motor Octane Rating is a measure of a fuel's anti-knock properties under
a heavy load, or full throttle conditions, when heat buildup is at maximum. ALCOHOL-BLENDED FUELS
Because a two cycle engine has a power stroke every revolution, with heat
buildup every revolution, it tends to respond more to the motor octane rating of The Environmental Protection Agency mandated a phase-out of the leaded
the fuel than the research octane rating. Therefore, in an outboard motor, the fuels. Lead was used to boost the octane of fuel. By January of 1986, the maxi-
motor octane rating of the fuel is the best indication of how it will perform, not mum allowable amount of lead was 0.1 gm/gal, down from 1.1 gm/gal.
the research octane. Unfortunately, the user has no way of knowing for sure the Gasoline suppliers, in general, feel that the 0.1 gm/gal limit is too low to
exact motor octane rating of the fuel. make lead of any real use to improve octane. Therefore, alternate octane
improvers are being used. There are multiple methods currently employed to
VAPOR PRESSURE AND ADDITIVES improve octane but the most inexpensive additive seems to be alcohol.
There are, however, some special considerations due to the effects of alcohol
Two other factors besides octane rating affect how suitable the fuel is for a in fuel. You should know about them and what steps to take when using alco-
particular application. hol-blended fuels commonly called gasohol.

FUEL SYSTEM 4-3
Alcohol in fuel is either methanol (wood alcohol) or ethanol (grain alcohol). FACTORS AFFECTING COMBUSTION
Either type can have serious effects when applied to outboard motor applica-
tions.
The combustion process is affected by several interrelated factors. This
The leaching affect of alcohol will, in time, cause fuel lines and plastic com- means that when one factor is changed, the other factors also must be changed
ponents to become brittle to the point of cracking. Unless replaced, these to maintain the same controlled burn and level of combustion stability.
cracked lines could leak fuel, increasing the potential for hazardous situations.
_.Suzuki fuel lines and plastic fuel system components have been spe- Compression
cially formulated to resist alcohol leaching effects.
Determines the level of heat buildup in the cylinder when the air-fuel mixture
When gasohol becomes contaminated with water, the water combines with is compressed. As compression increases, so does the potential for heat buildup.
the alcohol then settles to the bottom. This leaves the gasoline and the oil for
models using premix, on a top layer. With alcohol-blended fuels, the amount of Ignition Timing
water necessary for this phase separation to occur is 0.5% by volume.
All fuels have chemical compounds added to reduce the tendency towards Determines when the gasses will start to expand in relation to the motion of
phase separation. If phase separation occurs, however, there is a possibility of a the piston. If the gasses begin to expand too soon, such as they would during
lean oil/fuel mixture with the potential for engine damage. With oil-injected out- pre-ignition or in an overly advanced ignition timing, the motion of the piston
boards (Precision Blend models), phase separation will be less of a problem opposes the expansion of the gasses, resulting in extremely high combustion
because the oil is injected separately rather than being premixed. chamber pressures and heat.
As ignition timing is retarded, the burn occurs later in relation to piston posi-
tion. This means that the piston has less distance to travel under power to the
Combustion bottom of the cylinder, resulting in less usable power.
A two cycle engine has a power stroke every revolution of the crankshaft. A
four cycle engine has a power stroke every other revolution of the crankshaft. Fuel Mixture
Therefore, the two cycle engine has twice as many power strokes for any given Determines how efficient the burn will be. A rich mixture burns slower than a
RPM. If the displacement of the two types of engines is identical, then the two lean one. If the mixture is too lean, it can't become explosive. The slower the
cycle engine has to dissipate twice as much heat as the four cycle engine. In burn, the cooler the combustion chamber, because pressure buildup is gradual.
such a high heat environment, the fuel must be very stable to avoid detonation.
If any parameters affecting combustion change suddenly (the engine runs lean Fuel Quality (Octane Rating)
for example), uncontrolled heat buildup occurs very rapidly in a two cycle
engine. Determines how much heat is necessary to ignite the mixture. Once the burn
is in progress, heat is on the rise. The unburned poor quality fuel is ignited all
ABNORMAL COMBUSTION at once by the rising heat instead of burning gradually as a flame front of the
burn passing by. This action results in detonation (pinging).
There are two types of abnormal combustion:
• Pre-ignition-Occurs when the air-fuel mixture is ignited by some Other Factors
other incandescent source other than the correctly timed spark from the In general, anything that can cause abnormal heat buildup can be enough to
spark plug. push an engine over the edge to abnormal combustion, if any of the four basic fac-
• Detonation-Occurs when excessive heat and or pressure ignites the tors previously discussed are already near the danger point, for example, excessive
air/fuel mixture rather than the spark plug. The burn becomes explosive. carbon buildup raises the compression and retains heat as glowing embers.
FUEL SYSTEM
The fuel for some small horsepower units is gravity fed from a tank mounted
Carburetion at the rear of the powerhead. Even with the gravity feed method, a small fuel
pump may be an integral part of the carburetor. After the engine starts, the fuel
GENERAL INFORMATION passes through the pump to the carburetor. All systems have some type of filter
installed somewhere in the line between the tank and the carburetor. Many units
The carburetor is merely a metering device for mixing fuel and air in the have a filter as an integral part of the carburetor.
proper proportions for efficient engine operation. At idle speed, an outboard
engine requires a mixture of about 8 parts air to 1 part fuel. At high speed or
under heavy duty service, the mixture may change to as much as 12 parts air to IDLE AND
THROTTLE SLOW SPEED
1 part fuel.
VALVE ORIFICES AIR INTAKE
Float Systems
• See Figure 1
A small chamber in the carburetor serves as a fuel reservoir. A float valve
admits fuel into the reservoir to replace the fuel consumed by the engine. If the
carburetor has more than one reservoir, the fuel level in each reservoir (cham-
ber) is controlled by identical float systems.
Fuel level in each chamber is extremely critical and must be maintained
accurately. Accuracy is obtained through proper adjustment of the floats. This FLOAT
adjustment will provide a balanced metering of fuel to each cylinder at all
speeds. VENTURI RING
Following the fuel through its course, from the fuel tank to the combustion HIGH SPEED NEEDLE
chamber of the cylinder, will provide an appreciation of exactly what is taking HIGH SPEED ORIFICE
place. In order to start the engine, the fuel must be moved from the tank to the 04704G01
carburetor by a squeeze bulb installed in the fuel line. This action is necessary Fig. 1 Fuel flow through a venturi, showing principle and related
because the fuel pump does not have sufficient pressure to draw fuel from the parts controlling intake and outflow
tank during cranking before the engine starts.

4-4 FUEL SYSTEM
At the carburetor, the fuel passes through the inlet passage to the needle and
seat, and then into the float chamber (reservoir). Afloat in the chamber rides up and ~
PILOT OUTLET ......._,PILOT SCREW
down on the surface of the fuel. After fuel enters the chamber and the level rises to :::::" = a:;~ BY-PASS HOLES
a predetermined point, atang on the float closes the inlet needle and the flow enter- "'-. 1~!: ;,.·.::~- - THROTILEPLATE
ing the chamber is cut off. When fuel leaves the chamber as the engine operates, PILOTA!RJET-.:::..'1:J",) i ~~':-'": ~
?_~
the fuel level drops and the float tang allows the inlet needle to move off its seat and
fuel once again enters the chamber. In this manner, a constant reservoir of fuel is
ff· ... ""'.=.::=>{/
MAINAIRJET .
.. =
. ·-::·...,,.:">-= ..
"."_-.':"·-~~.
c='f=
g :::=>
maintained in the chamber to satisfy the demands of the engine at all speeds.
A fuel chamber vent hole is located near the top of the carburetor body to
permit atmospheric pressure to act against the fuel in each chamber. This pres- PILOT JET
sure assures an adequate fuel supply to the various operating systems of the
powerhead.
Air/Fuel Mixture
04704G20
• See Figure 2
Fig. 3 The starting circuit
A suction effect is created each time the piston moves upward in the cylinder.
This suction draws air through the throat of the carburetor. A restriction in the
throat, called a venturi, controls air velocity and has the effect of reducing air
pressure at this point. Low Speed Circuit
The difference in air pressures at the throat and in the fuel chamber, causes • See Figure 4
the fuel to be pushed out of metering jets extending down into the fuel chamber.
When the fuel leaves the jets, it mixes with the air passing through the venturi. Zero-one-eighth throttle, when the pressure in the crankcase is lowered, the
This fuel/air mixture should then be in the proper proportion for burning in the air-fuel mixture is discharged into the venturi through the pilot outlet because
cylinders for maximum engine performance. the throttle plate is closed. No other outlets are exposed to low venturi pressure.
In order to obtain the proper air/fuel mixture for all engine speeds, some mod- The fuel is metered by the pilot jet. The air is metered by the pilot air jet. The
els have high and low speed jets. These jets have adjustable needle valves which combined air-fuel mixture is regulated by the pilot air screw.
are used to compensate for changing atmospheric conditions. In almost all
cases, the high-speed circuit has fixed high-speed jets and are not adjustable.
A throttle valve controls the flow of air/fuel mixture drawn into the combus-
tion chambers. A cold powerhead requires a richer fuel mixture to start and dur-
ing the brief period it is warming to normal operating temperature. A choke
valve is placed ahead of the metering jets and venturi. As this valve begins to
close, the volume of air intake is reduced, thus enriching the mixture entering
the cylinders. When this choke valve is fully closed, a very rich fuel mixture is
drawn into the cylinders.
The throat of the carburetor is usually referred to as the barrel. Carburetors
with single, double, or four barrels have individual metering jets, needle valves,
throttle and choke plates for each barrel. Single and two barrel carburetors are
fed by a single float and chamber.
INDUCED
~ ....
LOW
~\~~
~.~-'
...__ . , +--
Fig. 4 The low speed circuit
04704G21
~ Mid-Range Circuit
• See Figure 5
One-eighth-three-eighths throttle, as the throttle plate continues to open, the
air-fuel mixture is discharged into the venturi through the bypass holes. As the
throttle plate uncovers more bypass holes, increased fuel flow results because
ATMOSPHERIC AIR PRESSURE

04704G02 D AIR
• nJEl.
Fig. 2 Air flow principle of a modern carburetor
CARBURETOR CIRCUITS
The following section illustrates the circuit functions and locations of a typi-
cal marine carburetor.
COOD co... omo~ UNS\JTTABL[
Starling Circuit
• See Figure 3
The choke plate is closed, creating a partial vacuum in the venturi. As the
u 04704G22
piston rises, negative pressure in the crankcase draws the rich air-fuel mixture
from the float bowl into the venturi and on into the engine. Fig. 5 The mid-range circuit

FUEL SYSTEM 4-5
of the low pressure in the venturi. Depending on the model, there could be two,
three or four bypass holes.
High Speed Circuit

• See Figure 6
Three-eighths-wide-open throttle, as the throttle plate moves toward wide
open, we have maximum air flow and very low pressure. The fuel is metered
through the main jet, and is drawn into the main discharge nozzle. Air is
metered by the main air jet and enters the discharge nozzle, where it combines
with fuel. The mixture atomizes, enters the venturi, and is drawn into the engine.
05004P78
Fig. 8 The V4 and V6 engines use a solenoid release valve and

large volume chamber for fuel delivery into the intake system
represents a clogged main jet. If the liquid in the glass is lowered and you blow
"
L.J 41R
through the straw with the same force what will happen? Not as much fuel will
[J Fl.iE1.
flow. A lean condition occurs. If the fuel level is raised and you blow again at
04704G23
the same velocity what happens? The result is a richer mixture.
Fig. 6 The high speed circuit Suzuki carburetors control air flow semi-independently of RPM. This is done
with a throttle plate. The throttle plate works in conjunction with other systems
or circuits to deliver correct mixtures within certain RPM bands. The idle circuit
BASIC FUNCTIONS pilot outlet controls from 0-Vs throttle. The series of small holes in the carbure-
tor throat called transition holes control the 1/s-% throttle range. At wide open
throttle the main jet handles most of the fuel metering chores, but the low and
•See Figures 7, 8 and 9 mid-range circuits continue to supply part of the fuel.
The carburetor systems on in line engines require careful cleaning and Enrichment is necessary to start a cold engine. Fuel and air mix does not
adjustment if problems occur. These carburetors are complicated but not too want to vaporize in a cold engine. In order to get a little fuel to vaporize, a lot of
complex to understand. All carburetors operate on the same principles. fuel is dumped into the engine. On many older inline engines a choke plate is
Traditional carburetor theory often involves a number of laws and principles. used for cold starts. This plate restricts air entering the engine and increases the
To troubleshoot carburetors learn the basic principles, watch how the carburetor fuel to air ratio.
comes apart, trace the circuits, see what they do and make sure they are clean. The V4 and V6 engines use a solenoid release valve and large volume
These are the basic steps for troubleshooting and successful repair. chamber for fuel delivery into the intake system behind No. 2 and No.3 carbu-
The diagram illustrates several carburetor basics. If you blow through the retors (V6 models), and No.1 and No.2 (V4 models) to ensure easy starting
straw an atomized mixture (air and fuel droplets) comes out. When you blow under all conditions. Fuel for this system is delivered from the fuel pump (top
through the straw a pressure drop is created in the straw column inserted in pump on the V6) directly to the fuel starter valve assembly where it is con-
the liquid. In a carburetor this is mostly air and a little fuel. The actual ratio of trolled by a float and inlet needle valve. When the ignition key, in the ON posi-
air to fuel differs with engine conditions but is usually from 15 parts air to one tion, is pushed in, the solenoid will open the solenoid release valve and fuel
part fuel at optimum cruise to as little as 7 parts air to one part fuel at full will flow to the two starter jet ports at the end of the carburetor bore. Turning
choke. the manual valve counterclockwise, to open, will allow fuel to flow in the event
If the top of the container is covered and sealed around the straw what will of an electrical problem. The manual valve must remain closed during normal
happen? No flow. This is typical of a clogged carburetor bowl vent. If the base of engine operation.
the straw is clogged or restricted what will happen? No flow or low flow. This
ATOMIZED FUEL
.-- AIR
FUEL
Remote control box

05004G77
CARBURETOR OPERATING PRINCIPLES
04704G18
Fig. 7 If you blow through the straw, an atomized mixture (air and Fig. 9 Illustration of the V4 and V6 solenoid release valve starting
fuel droplets) comes out system. The V4 engines have only one fuel pump

4-6 FUEL SYSTEM
DUAL-THROAT CARBURETORS Proper procedure involves:
1. Shutting off the fuel supply at the tank.
The carburetor systems on V4 and V6 engines require careful cleaning and 2. Disconnecting the fuel line at the tank.
adjustment if problems occur. These carburetors are not difficult to understand. 3. Operating the engine until it begins to run rough, then stopping the
All carburetors operate on the same principles. For best results, trace and ana- engine, which will leave some fuel/oil mixture inside.
lyze one circuit at a time. 4. Removing and draining the carburetor.
Beginning in 1996, all Saltwater series 90 degree V engines have an addi- By disconnecting the fuel supply, all small passages are cleared of fuel even
tional jet in the carburetor. This pull over or enrichment jet improves mid-range though some fuel is left in the carburetor. A light oil should be put in the com-
response while maintaining fuel economy. Additional enrichment is necessary to bustion chamber as instructed in the owner's manual. On some model carbure-
start a cold engine. Fuel/air mixes to not want to vaporize in a cold engine. In tors the high-speed jet plug can be removed to drain the fuel from the
order to get a little fuel to vaporize, a lot of fuel is dumped into the engine. On carburetor.
most V4 and V6 engines, a choke plate is used for cold starts. This plate For short periods of storage, simply running the carburetor dry may help
restricts air entering the engine and increases the fuel/air ratio. prevent severe gum and varnish from forming in the carburetor. This is espe-
The enrichment system on the 90-degree 225 hp engines is controlled by a cially true during hot weather.
microprocessor. Temperature and throttle position are monitored and enrich-
ment is automatic. A pair of injectors with different diameters are used to pro- Fuel Pump
vide enrichment.
REMOVING FUEL FROM THE SYSTEM
A fuel pump is a basic mechanical device that utilizes crankcase positive and
negative pressures to pump fuel from the fuel tank to the carburetors.
This device contains a flexible diaphragm and two check valves (flappers or
For many years there has been the widespread belief that simply shutting off fingers) that control flow. As the piston goes up, crankcase pressure drops
the fuel at the tank and then running the engine until it stops is the proper pro- (negative pressure) and the inlet valve opens, pulling fuel from the tank. As the
cedure before storing the engine for any length of time. Right? Wrong! piston nears TDC, pressure in the pump area is neutral (atmospheric pressure).
It is not possible to remove all of the fuel in the carburetor by operating the At this point both valves are closed. As the piston comes down, pressure goes
engine until it stops. Some fuel is trapped in the float chamber and other pas- up (positive pressure) and the fuel is pushed toward the carburetor bowl by the
sages and in the line leading to the carburetor. The only guaranteed method of diaphragm through the now open outlet valve.
removing ALL of the fuel is to take the time to remove the carburetor, and drain This is a reliable method to move fuel but can have several problems. Some-
the fuel. times an engine backfire can rupture the diaphragm. The diaphragm and valves
If the engine is operated with the fuel supply shut off until it stops, the fuel are moving parts subject to wear. The flexibility of the diaphragm material can
and oil mixture inside the engine is removed, leaving bearings, pistons, rings, go away, reducing or stopping flow. Rust or dirt can hang a valve open and
and other parts with little protective lubricant, during long periods of storage. reduce or stop fuel flow.
t ~ CRANKCASE PRESSURE
04704619
04704P14 04704P11 Fig. 12 A fuel pump is a basic mechanical

Fig. 10 Typical fuel line quick disconnect Fig. 11 Fuel shutoff knob on a 4 hp out- device that utilizes crankcase positive and
fitting board negative pressures to pump fuel
05004P89 05004P84 05004P35

Fig. 13 The diaphragm is most subject to Fig. 14 Typical fuel pump mounting on the Fig. 15 Make sure to inspect the fuel
wear in a fuel pump engine crankcase pump gasket . . .

FUEL SYSTEM 4-7
05004P88 05004P92
05004P87
Fig. 17 When taking the pump apart, mark Fig. 18 Exploded view of a diaphragm fuel
Fig. 16 ... or 0-ring for tears or damage the pump sections for correct reassembly pump-DT175
TROUBLESHOOTING
installed and the engine re-tested. Be aware that a bad anti-siphon valve on a
Fuel System built-in tank can create enough restriction to cause a lean condition and serious
Troubleshooting fuel systems requires the same techniques used in other engine damage.
areas. A thorough, systematic approach to troubleshooting will pay big rewards. If the needle movement becomes erratic, suspect a ruptured diaphragm in the
Build your troubleshooting checklist, with the most likely offenders at the top. fuel pump.
Use your experience to adjust your list for local conditions. Everyone has been A quick way to check for a ruptured fuel pump diaphragm is while the engine
tempted to jump into the carburetor on a vague hunch. Pause a moment and is at idle speed, to squeeze the primer bulb and hold steady firm pressure on it.
review the facts when this urge occurs. If the diaphragm is ruptured, this will cause a rough running condition because
In order to accurately troubleshoot a carburetor or fuel system problem, you of the extra fuel passing through the diaphragm into the crankcase. After per-
must first verify that the problem is fuel related. Many symptoms can have sev- forming this test you should check the spark plugs for cylinders that the fuel
eral different possible causes. Be sure to eliminate mechanical and electrical pump supplies. If the spark plugs are OK, but the fuel pumps are still sus-
systems as the potential fault. Carburetion is the number one cause of most pected, you should remove the fuel pumps and completely disassemble them.
engine problems, but there are other possibilities. Rebuild or replace the pumps as needed.
One of the toughest tasks with a fuel system is the actual troubleshooting. To check the boat's fuel system for a restriction, install a vacuum gauge in
Several tools are at your disposal for making this process very simple. A timing the line before the fuel pump. Run the engine under load at wide open throttle to
light works well for observing carburetor spray patterns. Look for the proper get a reading. Vacuum should read no more than 4.5 in. Hg (15.2 kPa) for
amount of fuel and for proper atomization in the two fuel outlet areas (main noz- engines up to and including 200 hp, and should not exceed 6.0 in. Hg (20.2
zle and bypass holes). The strobe effect of the lights helps you see in detail the kPa) for engines greater than 200 hp.
fuel being drawn through the throat of the carburetor. On multiple carburetor To check for air entering the fuel system, install a clear fuel hose between the
engines, always attach the timing light to the cylinder you are observing so the fuel screen and fuel pump. If air is in the line, check all fittings back to the
strobe doesn't change the appearance of the patterns. If you need to compare boat's fuel tank.
two cylinders, change the timing light hookup each time you observe a different Spark plug tip appearance is a good indication of combustion efficiency. The
cylinder. tip should be a light tan. A white insulator or small beads on the insulator indi-
Pressure testing fuel pump output can determine whether the fuel spray is cate too much heat. A dark or oil fouled insulator indicates incomplete combus-
adequate and if the fuel pump diaphragms are functioning correctly. A pressure tion. To properly read spark plug tip appearance, run the engine at the RPM you
gauge placed between the fuel pumps and the carburetors will test the entire fuel are testing for about 15 second and then immediately turn the engine OFF with-
delivery system. Normally a fuel system problem will show up at high speed out changing the throttle position.
where the fuel demand is the greatest. A common symptom of a fuel pump out- Reading spark plug tip appearance is also the proper way to test jet verifica-
put problem is surging at wide open throttle, but normal operation at slower tions in high altitude.
speeds. To check the fuel pump output, install the pressure gauge and acceler- The following chart explains the relationship between throttle position and
ate the engine to wide open throttle. Observe the pressure gauge needle. It carburetion circuits.
should always swing up to some value between 5-6 psi and remain steady. This
reading would indicate a system that is functioning properly. LOGICAL TROUBLESHOOTING
If the needle gradually swings down toward zero, fuel demand is greater than
the fuel system can supply. This reading isolates the problem to the fuel deliv- The following paragraphs provide an orderly sequence of tests to pinpoint
ery system (fuel tank or line). To confirm this, an auxiliary tank should be problems in the fuel system.
CIRCUIT/POSIDON 0 118 114 3/8 1/2 5/8 3/4 WOTI

IDLE
BYPASS
MID-RANGE
.. I
MAIN JET I
CHOKE/ENRICHENER
04704C03

4-8 FUEL SYSTEM
1. Gather as much information as you can.
2. Duplicate the condition. Take the boat out and verify the complaint.
3. If the problem cannot be duplicated, you cannot fix it. This could be a
product operation problem.
4. Once the problem has been duplicated, you can begin troubleshooting.
Give the entire unit a careful visual inspection. You can tell a lot about the
engine from the care and condition of the entire rig. What's the condition of the
propeller and the lower unit? Remove the hood and look for any visible signs of
failure. Are there any signs of head gasket leakage. Is the engine paint discol-
ored from high temperature or are there any holes or cracks in the engine
block? Perform a compression and leak down test. While cranking the engine
during the compression test, listen for any abnormal sounds. If the engine
passes these simple tests we can assume that the mechanical condition of the
engine is good All other engine mechanical inspection would be too time con-
suming at this point.
5. Your next step is to isolate the fuel system into two sub-systems. Sepa-
rate the fuel delivery components from the carburetors. To do this, substitute the
boat's fuel supply with a known good supply. Use a 6 gallon portable tank and
fuel line. Connect the portable fuel supply directly to the engine fuel pump,
bypassing the boat fuel delivery system. Now test the engine. If the problem is
no longer present, you know where to look. If the problem is still present, fur-
ther troubleshooting is required.
6. When testing the engine, observe the throttle position when the problem
occurs. This will help you pinpoint the circuit that is malfunctioning. Carburetor
troubleshooting and repair is very demanding. You must pay close attention to 04701P24
the location, position and sometimes the numbering on each part removed. The Fig. 20 The use of an approved fuel additive, such as this Suzuki
ability to identify a circuit by the operating RPM it affects is important. Often Fuel Conditioner and Stabilizer, will prevent fuel from souring for up
your best troubleshooting tool is a can of cleaner. This can be used to trace to twelve months
those mystery circuits and find that last speck of dirt. Be careful and wear safety
glasses when using this method.
Even with the high price of fuel, removing gasoline that has been standing
COMMON PROBLEMS unused over a long period of time is still the easiest and least expensive pre-
ventative maintenance possible. In most cases, this old gas can be used without
Fuel Delivery harmful effects in an automobile using regular gasoline.
The gasoline preservative additive Suzuki Fuel Conditioner and Stabilizer for
t See Figure 19 2 cycle engines, will keep the fuel fresh for up to twelve months. If this particu-
Many times fuel system troubles are caused by a plugged fuel filter, a defec- lar product is not available in your area, other similar additives are produced
tive fuel pump, or by a leak in the line from the fuel tank to the fuel pump. A under various trade names.
defective choke may also cause problems. would you believe, a majority of
starting troubles which are traced to the fuel system are the result of an empty Choke Problems
fuel tank or aged sour fuel. When the engine is hot, the fuel system can cause starting problems. After a
hot engine is shut down, the temperature inside the fuel bowl may rise to 200
degrees F and cause the fuel to actually boil. All carburetors are vented to allow
this pressure to escape to the atmosphere. However, some of the fuel may per-
colate over the high-speed nozzle.
If the choke should stick in !he open position, the engine will be hard lo
start. If the choke should stick in !he closed position, the engine will flood,
making it very difficult lo start.
In order for this raw fuel to vaporize enough to burn, considerable air mus!
be added to lean out !he mixture. Therefore, !he only remedy is lo remove the
spark plugs, ground the leads, crank the powerhead through about ten revolu-
tions, clean the plugs, reinstall the plugs, and start the engine.
If !he needle valve and seat assembly is leaking, an excessive amount of fuel
may enter !he reed housing in the following manner. Af!er the powerhead is shut
down, !he pressure let! in !he fuel line will force fuel past the leaking needle
04704P09
valve. This extra fuel will raise !he level in the fuel bowl and cause fuel to over-
Fig. 19 An excellent way of protecting fuel hoses against contami- flow into the reed housing.
A continuous overflow of fuel into the reed housing may be due to a slicking
nation is an end cap filter
inlet needle or to a defective float, which would cause an extra high level of fuel
in the bowl and overflow into the reed housing.
Sour Fuel
t See Figure 20 Fuel Pump
Under average conditions (temperate climates), fuel will begin to break down t See Figure 21
in about four months. A gummy substance forms in the bottom of the fuel tank Fuel pump testing is an excellent way to pinpoint air leaks, restricted fuel
and in other areas. The filter screen between the tank and the carburetor and lines and fittings or other fuel supply related performance problems.
small passages in the carburetor will become clogged. The gasoline will begin When a fuel starvation problem is suspected such as engine hesitation or
to give off an odor similar to rotten eggs. Such a condition can cause the owner engine stopping, perform the following fuel system lest:
much frustration, time in cleaning components, and the expense of replacement 1. Connect !he piece of clear fuel hose to a side barb of the "T" fitting 0.
or overhaul parts for the carburetor.

FUEL SYSTEM 4-9
HOSE TO ALTER--.u
~~
..
CHECKVALVE
~HORT CLEAR HOSE
GAUGE'~
ff
HOSE TO
~n?SETOFUaPUMP
04704G27
Fig. 21 Connecting a fuel pressure gauge inline in preparation for a

fuel pump test
2. Connect one end of the long piece of fuel hose to the vacuum gauge and
the other end to the center barb of the "T" fitting.
•Use a long enough piece of fuel hose so the vacuum gauge may be
read at the helm.
3. Remove the existing fuel hose from the fuel tank side of the fuel pump,
and connect the remaining barb of the "T" fitting to the fuel hose.
4. Connect the short piece of clear fuel hose to the fuel check valve leading
from the fuel filter. If a check valve does not exist, connect the clear fuel hose
directly to the fuel filter.
5. Check the vacuum gauge reading after running the engine long enough
to stabilize at full power. 04704P18
Fig. 22 To test the fuel pickup in the fuel tank, operate the squeeze
•The vacuum is to not exceed 4.5 in. Hg (15.2 kPa) for up to 200 hp
bulb and observe fuel flowing from the disconnected line at the fuel
engines. The vacuum is to not exceed 6.0 in. Hg (20.3 kPa) for engines
greater than 200 hp. pump. Discharge fuel into an approved container.
6. An anti-siphon valve (required if the fuel system drops below the top of
the fuel tank) will cause a 1.5 to 2.5 in. Hg (8.4 kPa) increase in vacuum.
7. If high vacuum is noted, move the T-fitting to the fuel filter outlet 0 and
retest.
8. Continue to the fuel filter inlet and along the remaining fuel system until
a large drop in vacuum locates the problem.
9. A good clean water separator fuel filter will increase vacuum about 0.5
in. Hg (1. 7 kPa).
10. Small internal passages inside a fuel selector valve, fuel tank pickup, or
fuel line fittings may cause excessive fuel restriction and high vacuum.
11. Unstable and slowly rising vacuum readings, especially with a full tank
of fuel, usually indicates a restricted vent line.
•Bubbles in the clear fuel line section indicate an air leak, making for
an inaccurate vacuum test. Check all fillings for lightened clamps and a
light fuel filter.
•Vacuum gauges are not calibrated and some may read as much as 2
in. Hg (6.8 kPa) lower than the actual vacuum. It is recommended to
perform a fuel system test while no problems exist to determine vacuum
gauge accuracy.
Fuel Line .
On most installations, the fuel line is provided with quick-disconnect fittings
at the tank and at the engine. If there is reason to believe the problem is at the
quick-disconnects, the hose ends should be replaced as an assembly. For a
small additional expense, the entire fuel line can be replaced and thus eliminate
this entire area as a problem source for many future seasons.
The primer squeeze bulb can be replaced in a short time. First, cut the hose
line as close to the old bulb as possible. Slide a small clamp over the end of the
fuel line from the tank. Next, install the small end of the check valve assembly
into this side of the fuel line. The check valve always goes towards the fuel tank. 04704P21
Place a large clamp over the end of the check valve assembly. Use Primer Bulb Fig. 23 Many limes restrictions such as foreign material may be
Adhesive when the connections are made. Tighten the clamps. Repeat the pro-
cleared from the fuel lines using compressed air. Ensure the open end
cedure with the other side of the bulb assembly and the line leading to the
engine. of the hose is pointing in a clear direction to avoid personal injury

4-10 FUEL SYSTEM
the engine is running and the line between the fuel tank and the pump when the
engine is not running. A leak between the tank and the pump many times will
not appear when the engine is operating, because the suction created by the
pump drawing fuel will not allow the fuel to leak. Once the engine is turned off
and the suction no longer exists, fuel may begin to leak.
If a minor tune-up has been performed and the spark plugs, points, and tim-
ing are properly adjusted, then the problem most likely is in the carburetor and
an overhaul is in order.
Check the needle valve and seat for leaking. Use extra care when making any
adjustments affecting the fuel consumption, such as the float level or automatic
choke.
Engine Surge
If the engine operates as if the load on the boat is being constantly increased
and decreased, even though an attempt is being made to hold a constant engine
04704P23
speed, the problem can most likely be attributed to the fuel pump, or a restric-
Fig. 24 Major parts of a typical fuel line squeeze bulb. The bulb is tion in the fuel line between the tank and the carburetor.
used to prime the fuel system until the powerhead is operating and
the pump can deliver the required amount of fuel to run the engine
Combustion Related Piston Failures
COMMON PROBLEMS • See Figure 25
When an engine has a piston failure due to abnormal combustion, fixing
Rough Engine Idle the mechanical portion of the engine is the easiest part. The hard part is
determining what caused the problem, in order to prevent a repeat failure.
If an engine does not idle smoothly, the most reasonable approach to the Think back to the four basic areas that affect combustion to find the cause of
problem is to perform a tune-up to eliminate such areas as: the failure.
• Defective points Since you probably removed the cylinder head. Inspect the failed piston, look
• Faulty spark plugs for excessive deposit buildup that could raise compression, or retain heat in the
• Timing out of adjustment combustion chamber. Statically check the wide open throttle timing. Be sure that
Other problems that can prevent an engine from running smoothly include: the timing is not over advanced. It is a good idea to seal these adjustments with
• An air leak in the intake manifold paint to detect tampering.
• Uneven compression between the cylinders Look for a fuel restriction that could cause the engine to run lean. Don't for-
• Sticky or broken reeds get to check the fuel pump, fuel tank and lines, especially if a built in tank is
Of course any problem in the carburetor affecting the air/fuel mixture will used. Be sure to check the anti-siphon valve on built in tanks.
also prevent the engine from operating smoothly at idle speed. These problems If everything else looks good, the final possibility is poor quality fuel.
usually include:
• Too high a fuel level in the bowl
• A heavy float
• Leaking needle valve and seat
• Defective automatic choke
• Improper adjustments for idle mixture or idle speed
Excessive Fuel Consumption

Excessive fuel consumption can be the result of any one of four conditions,
or a combination of all.
• Inefficient engine operation.
• Faulty condition of the hull, including excessive marine growth.
• Poor boating h.abits ofthe operator.
• Leaking or out of tune carburetor.
If the fuel consumption suddenly increases over what could be considered
normal, then the cause can probably be attributed to the engine or boat and not
the operator.
Marine growth on the hull can have a very marked effect on boat perfor-
mance. This is why sail boats always try to have a haul-out as close to race time
as possible.
While you are checking the bottom, take note of the propeller condition. A
Fig. 25 This burned piston is typical of a combustion relate failure.
bent blade or other damage will definitely cause poor boat performance.
If the hull and propeller are in good shape, then check the fuel system for The combustion chamber temperature got so hot that it melted the
possible leaks. Check the line between the fuel pump and the carburetor while top of the piston (hole in the top of the piston)

FUEL SYSTEM 4-11
CARBURETOR SERVICE
DT2 and DT2.2

This carburetor is a single-barrel, float feed type with a manual choke. Fuel to
the carburetor is gravity fed from a fuel tank mounted at the rear of the powerhead.

Good shop practice dictates a carburetor repair kit be purchased and new
parts be installed any time the carburetor is disassembled.
Make an attempt to keep the work area organized and to cover parts after they
have been cleaned. This practice will prevent foreign matter from entering pas-
sageways or adhering to critical parts. 05004G04
1. Remove the port and starboard engine covers.
Step 5
same number of turns recorded during disassembly. If the number of turns was
not recorded, back the screw out 1-% turns as a rough adjustment. Idle speed
should be as specified in the ''Tune-Up Specifications" chart.
9. Install the two halves of the cowling around the powerhead.
10. Secure the engine cover.
Mount the outboard unit in a test tank, or the boat in a body of water, or con-
nect a flush attachment and hose to the lower unit. Start the engine and check
the completed work. Allow the powerhead to warm to normal operating tempera-
ture. Adjust the idle speed to specification.
DISASSEMBLY
05004G02 • See Figure 26

Step 1 1. With the carburetor on clean working surface, remove the screws secur-
ing the fuel float bowl to the carburetor body. Discard the float bowl gasket.
2. With the fuel petcock lever in the OFF position (marked "S"), remove the
fuel hose from the carburetor fitting and plug the hose to prevent fuel from leaking.
3. Loosen the choke knob set screw and remove the knob from the control
panel.
05004G03
Step 3
CD Throttle lever ass'y ®Filter

4. Remove the screws holding the control panel to the carburetor and Iift CV Carburetor top @ Needle valve ass'y
off the control panel and throttle link knob. @Pipe @ Needle nozzle
@) Spring seat ®Float
5. Loosen the carburetor clamp and remove the carburetor from the engine @ Throttle rod @ Floatarm
crankcase. Discard the 0-ring. ® Seat pin @ Float pin
To install: ([; Jet needle @ Throttle link knob
6. Install the throttle lever post in the throttle valve with the anchor in the ® Throttle valve @Choke knob
pocket at the bottom of the valve body. ® Stop screw ®I Main jet
'.j]J '"O" ring
7. Secure the carburetor in place by tightening the bolt and nut securely. 05004801
8. Install the control panel and the chock knob. Don't forget to tighten the Fig. 26 Exploded view of carburetor with major parts identified-
set screw.
DT2 and DT2.2 models
Slowly tighten the idle speed screw until it barely seats, then back it out the

4-12 FUEL SYSTEM
2. Push the float pin free using a fine pointed awl and remove the float pin
from the float arm and lift off the float and needle valve from the bowl.
3. Remove the main nozzle and the main jet assembly.
4. Remove the needle seat and gasket using a wide bladed screwdriver. Dis-
card the gasket
5. Loosen the throttle stop screw and unscrew the carburetor top with the
throttle lever assembly as one unit
6. Disconnect the throttle plunger from the needle valve and remove the
valve, spring and retainer.
,.II is not necessary to remove the E-clip from the jet needle, unless
replacement is required or if the powerhead is to be operated at a sig-
nificantly different elevation.
7. Turn in the throttle stop screw (counting the turns for reassembly) until it
lightly seats. Turn out the screw and remove it and the attached spring.
8. Remove the fuel inlet fitting and fuel filter.
CLEANING & INSPECTION

04704P30
t See Figures 27 and 28 Fig. 28 A carburetor repair kit, like this one for our disassembled
carburetor, are available at your local service dealer. They contain
**CAUTION the necessary components to perform a carburetor overhaul
Never dip rubber parts, plastic parts, diaphragms, or pump
plungers in carburetor cleaner. These parts should be cleaned only Inspect the tapered section of the idle adjusting needles and replace any that
in solvent, and then blown dry with compressed air. have developed a groove. As previously mentioned, most of the parts which
should be replaced during a carburetor overhaul are included in overhaul kits
Place all metal parts in a screen-type tray and dip them in carburetor available from your local marine dealer. One of these kits will contain a matched
cleaner until they appear completely clean, then blow them dry with com-
fuel inlet needle and seat This combination should be replaced each time the
pressed air.
carburetor is disassembled as a precaution against leakage.
Blow out all passages in the castings with compressed air. Check all parts
and passages to be sure they are not clogged or contain any deposits. Never ASSEMBLY
use a piece of wire or any type of pointed instrument to clean drilled passages
or calibrated holes in a carburetor.
Move the throttle shaft back and forth to check for wear. If the shaft appears t See accompanying illustrations
to be too loose, replace the complete throttle body because individual replace- 1. Install a new carburetor 0-ring into the carburetor body.
ment parts are not available. 2. Apply an all-purpose lubricant to a new idle speed screw. Install the idle
Inspect the main body, airhorn, and venturi cluster gasket surfaces for cracks speed screw and spring.
and burrs which might cause a leak. Check the float for deterioration. Check to 3. Install the main jet into the main nozzle and tighten it just snug with a
be sure the float spring has not been stretched. If any part of the float is dam- screwdriver.
aged, the unit must be replaced. Check the float arm needle contacting surface 4. Slide a new needle valve into the groove of the float arm.
and replace the float if this surface has a groove worn in it 5. Lower the float arm into position with the needle valve sliding into the
needle valve seat Now, push the float pin through the holes in the carburetor
body and hinge using a small awl or similar tool.
6. Hold the carburetor body in a perfect upright position. Check the float
hinge adjustment The vertical distance between the float chamber mating face
and the float should be 0.75-0.83 in. (19-21mm).
05004G05
Step 6
7. Carefully, bend the hinge, if necessary, to achieve the required measurement

04704P52
Fig. 27 Metal parts from our disassembled 2 hp carburetor in a bas- ,.Make sure the gasket is removed when making the float height mea-
ket ready to be immersed in carburetor cleaner surement.

FUEL SYSTEM 4-13
Step 7
8. Position a new float bowl gasket in place on the carburetor body.

Install the float into the float bowl. Place the float bowl in position on the
carburetor body, and then secure it with the two Phillips head screws.
9. If the E-clip on the jet needle is lowered, the carburetor will cause the
powerhead to operate rich. Raising the E-clip will cause the powerhead to
operate lean. Higher altitude raise E-clip to compensate for rarefied air. 1. Carburetor assy 6. Knob, starter
Standard E-clip setting is in the 3rd notch. Begin to assemble the throttle 2. Jet, pilot (45) 7. Jet, main
valve components by inserting the E-clip end of the jet needle into the 3. Screw, throttle stop 8. Float
throttle valve (the end with the recess for the throttle cable end). Next, place
4. Screw, pilot air 9. Bolt
the needle retainer into the throttle valve over the E-clip and align the
retainer slot with the slot in the throttle valve. 5. Lever, choke 10. Adjuster
10. Reassemble the throttle valve assembly. Align the jet needle retainer Fig. 29 Exploded view of the DT4 and DT5Y carburetor with major
should be positioned with the slot aligned. parts identified
Jet needle 1
2~
I to leaner
Slowly tighten the idle speed screw until it barely seats, then back it out
the same number of turns recorded during disassembly. If the number of
turns was not recorded, back the screw out 1-3/4 turns as a rough
3 ::::::;; -~ adjustment. Idle speed should be as specified in the "Tune-Up
4/
5 ~ to richer
8. Secure the engine cover.
Mount the outboard unit in a test tank, or the boat in a body of water, or
connect a flush attachment and hose to the lower unit. Start the engine and
check the completed work. Allow the powerhead to warm to normal operating
temperature. Adjust the idle speed to specification.
DISASSEMBLY
1. Remove the bolt and washer from the float bowl. Remove the float
bowl and 0-ring from the carburetor body. Discard the used 0-ring.
2. Remove the float hinge pin and remove the float and pin assembly
from the carburetor body.
Step 9
3. Remove the inlet needle.
• Do not force removal of the inlet needle, on some models the inlet
DT4 and DT5Y needle is permanently installed in the valve seat.
4. Remove the main jet. Use jet removal tool or a wide blade
• See Figure 29
screwdriver.
This type of carburetor has been used is various configurations for many 5. Remove the pilot (idle) jet.
years. Most of the changes are in jetting calibration and control linkages. 6. Remove the air jet.
The needle valve seat is not replaceable. If it is damaged or worn, the 7. Turn in the pilot (idle) screw, counting the turns in (for reassembly
carburetor must be replaced as a complete unit. later) until it lightly seats. Now, remove the pilot screw and spring.
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION CLEANING & INSPECTION

2. Pull the fuel hose off the carburetor. Plug the fuel hose to prevent **CAUTION
leakage. Never dip rubber parts, plastic parts, diaphragms, or pump plungers in
3. Remove the choke knob from the control panel. carburetor cleaner. These parts should be cleaned only in solvent, and
4. Loosen the two nuts and remove the carburetor from the engine. then blown dry with compressed air.
To install: Place all metal parts in a screen-type tray and dip them in carburetor
5. Position a new float bowl gasket in place on the carburetor body. cleaner until they appear completely clean, then blow them dry with
Install the float into the float bowl. Place the float bowl in position on the compressed air.
carburetor body, and then secure it with the two Phillips head screws. Blow out all passages in the castings with compressed air. Check all parts
6. Secure the carburetor in place by tightening the bolt and nut and passages to be sure they are not clogged or contain any deposits.
securely. Never use a piece of wire or any type of pointed instrument to clean drilled
7. Install the chock knob. passages or calibrated holes in a carburetor.

4-14 FUEL SYSTEM
Move the throttle shaft back and forth to check for wear. If the shaft appears 2. Pull the fuel hose off the carburetor. Plug the fuel hose to prevent leak-
to be too loose, replace the complete throttle body because individual replace- age.
ment parts are not available. 3. Remove the choke knob from the control panel.
Inspect the main body, air-horn, and venturi cluster gasket surfaces for 4. Loosen the two nuts and remove the carburetor from the engine.
cracks and burrs which might cause a leak. Check the float for deterioration. To install:
Check to be sure the float spring has not been stretched. If any part of the float 5. Secure the carburetor in place by tightening the bolt and nut securely.
is damaged, the unit must be replaced. Check the float arm needle contacting 6. Install the chock knob.
surface and replace the float if this surface has a groove worn in it. Slowly tighten the idle speed screw until it barely seats, then back it out the
Inspect the tapered section of the idle adjusting needles and replace any that same number of turns recorded during disassembly. If the number of turns was
have developed a groove. As previously mentioned, most of the parts which not recorded, back the screw out 1-% turns as a rough adjustment. Idle speed
should be replaced during a carburetor overhaul are included in overhaul kits should be as specified in the "Tune-Up Specifications" chart.
available from your local marine dealer. One of these kits will contain a matched 7. Secure the engine cover.
fuel inlet needle and seat. This combination should be replaced each time the Mount the outboard unit in a test tank, or the boat in a body of water, or con-
carburetor is disassembled as a precaution against leakage. nect a flush attachment and hose to the lower unit. Start the engine and check
the completed work. Allow the powerhead to warm to normal operating tempera-
ASSEMBLY ture. Adjust the idle speed to specification.
1. Install a new carburetor 0-ring into the carburetor body. DISASSEMBLY

2. Apply an all-purpose lubricant to a new idle speed screw. Install the idle
speed screw and spring. • See Figures 31 and 32
~The standard setting is: 1-1112 turns out. 1. Remove the bolt and washer from the float bowl. Remove the float bowl
and 0-ring from the carburetor body. Discard the used 0-ring.
3. Install the main jet into the main nozzle and tighten it just snug with a 2. Remove the float hinge pin and remove the float and pin assembly from
screwdriver. the carburetor body.
4. Slide a new needle valve into the groove of the float arm. 3. Remove the inlet needle.
5. Lower the float arm into position with the needle valve sliding into the
needle valve seat. Now, push the float pin through the holes in the carburetor ~oo not force removal of the inlet needle, on some models the inlet
body and hinge using a small awl or similar tool. needle is permanently installed in the valve seat.
6. Hold the carburetor body in a perfect upright position. Check the float 4. Remove the main jet. Use jet removal tool or a wide blade screwdriver.
hinge adjustment. The vertical distance between the float chamber mating face 5. Remove the pilot (idle) jet.
and the float should be 0.47-0.55 in. (12-14mm). Carefully, bend the hinge, if 6. Remove the air jet.
necessary, to achieve the required measurement. 7. Turn in the pilot (idle) screw, counting the turns in (for reassembly later)
~Make sure the gasket is removed when making the float height mea- until it lightly seats. Now, remove the pilot screw and spring.
surement.
DT6 and 1988 DT8

• See Figure 30
05004G10
Fig. 31 Typical locations for the pilot air screw .
CD Pilot air screw

Ci) Throttle stop screw
@ Needle ass'y
© Mairijet Throttle stop screw
@ Air jet
® Pilotjet
(J) Float
@ Float pin
05004G09
05004G11
Fig. 30 Exploded view of the DT6 and 1988 DT8 carburetor with
major parts identified Fig. 32 . . . and the throttle stop screw

FUEL SYSTEM 4-15
CLEANING & INSPECTION Inspect the tapered section of the idle adjusting needles and replace any
that have developed a groove. As previously mentioned, most of the parts
• See Figures 33 and 34 which should be replaced during a carburetor overhaul are included in over-
haul kits available from your local marine dealer. One of these kits will con-
Never dip rubber parts, plastic parts, diaphragms, or pump plungers in car- tain a matched fuel inlet needle and seat. This combination should be
buretor cleaner. These parts should be cleaned only in solvent, and then blown replaced each time the carburetor is disassembled as a precaution against
dry with compressed air. leakage.
Place all metal parts in a screen-type tray and dip them in carburetor cleaner
until they appear completely clean, then blow them dry with compressed air. ASSEMBLY
and passages to be sure they are not clogged or contain any deposits. Never 1. Install a new carburetor 0-ring into the carburetor body.
use a piece of wire or any type of pointed instrument to clean drilled passages 2. Apply an all-purpose lubricant to a new idle speed screw. Install the idle
or calibrated holes in a carburetor. speed screw and spring.
Move the throttle shaft back and forth to check for wear. If the shaft appears
to be too loose, replace the complete throttle body because individual replace- •The standard setting is:
ment parts are not available.
• OT6: 1-1112 turns out.
Inspect the main body, airhorn, and venturi cluster gasket surfaces for cracks
• OTB: %-1-1/4turns out.
and burrs which might cause a leak. Check the float for deterioration. Check to 3. Install the main jet into the main nozzle and tighten it just snug with a
be sure the float spring has not been stretched. If any part of the float is dam-
screwdriver.
aged, the unit must be replaced. Check the float arm needle contacting surface
4. Slide a new needle valve into the groove of the float arm.
and replace the float if this surface has a groove worn in it. 5. Lower the float arm into position with the needle valve sliding into the
needle valve seat. Now, push the float pin through the holes in the carburetor
body and hinge using a small awl or similar tool.
6. Hold the carburetor body in a perfect upright position. Check the float
hinge adjustment. The vertical distance between the float chamber mating face
and the float should be as follows:
• OT6 and OTB: 0.9-1.0 in. (22-26mm). Carefully, bend the hinge, if
necessary, to achieve the required measurement.
•Make sure the gasket is removed when making the float height mea'
surement.
7. Position a new float bowl gasket in place on the carburetor body. Install
the float into the float bowl. Place the float bowl in position on the carburetor
body, and then secure it with the two Phillips head screws.
DT9.9, DT15 and 1989-97 DT8

• See Figure 35
04704PBO The fuel pump is constructed as an integral component of the carburetor. The
Fig. 33 Good shop practice dictates a carburetor rebuild kit be pur- pump is a diaphragm type, operating with the pressure pulses inside the engine
chased and new parts, especially gaskets and 0-rings be installed crankcase. These pressure pulses are characteristic of a two-stroke type engine.
any lime the carburetor is disassembled. This photo includes parts The crankcase pressure becomes positive during the downward stroke of the
in a repair kit for the 6 hp, 8 hp, 9.9 hp and 15 hp carburetor
piston and negative during the upward stroke. In response to these pressure
pulses, the diaphragm will flex cyclically to pump the fuel from the fuel tank to
the carburetor float bowls.
When the engine is started, positive and negative pressures are produced alter-
nately in the crankcase, passing into the pump body which is mounted on the car-
buretor itself and actuating the diaphragm in the pump housing. The diaphragm
pulsing action causes the fuel from the fuel filter to flow from the inlet into the
pump. Then, the fuel inside the fuel pump is sent from the discharge outlet to the
carburetor, which it passes through a valve hole and then into the float bowl.
If the engine speed is increased, the diaphragm cycles are increased propor-
tionally, supplying the correct amount of fuel needed for that particular engine
speed.

2. Pull the fuel hose off the carburetor. Plug the fuel hose to prevent leakage.
3. Remove the choke knob from the control panel.
4. Loosen the two nuts and remove the carburetor from the engine.
To install:
5. Place a new carburetor mounting gasket on the powerhead studs. Install
the carburetor and secure it in place with the washers and nuts. Tighten the nuts
alternately and evenly.
04704PB9 6. Adjust the air screw setting. Baseline setting is: 11/4-1%turns out.
Fig. 34 Remove all rubber and plastic parts before immersing metal 7. Install the choke knob onto the control panel.
parts of the 6 hp, 8 hp, 9.9 hp and 15 hp carburetor in cleaning B. Connect the fuel line onto the carburetor inlet fitting.
solution 9. Install the engine cover.

4-16 FUEL SYSTEM
5. Remove the main jet. Use jet removal tool or a wide blade screwdriver.
6. Remove the pilot (idle) jet with the proper tool.
7. Turn in the pilot (idle) screw, counting the turns in (for reassembly later)
1f-3 until it lightly seats. Now, remove the pilot screw and spring.
iI 8. Clean and inspect all the parts.
**CAUTION
Never dip rubber parts, plastic parts, diaphragms, or pump plungers
in carburetor cleaner. These parts should be cleaned only in solvent,
and then blown dry with compressed air. Place all metal parts in a
screen-type tray and dip them in carburetor cleaner until they appear
completely clean, then blow them dry with compressed air.
and passages to be sure they are not clogged or contain any deposits. Never
use a piece of wire or any type of pointed instrument to clean drilled passages
11 or calibrated holes in a carburetor.
Move the throttle shaft back and forth to check for wear. If the shaft appears
to be too loose, replace the complete throttle body because individual replace-
ment parts are not available.
Inspect the main body, airhorn, and venturi cluster gasket surfaces for cracks
and burrs which might cause a leak. Check the float for deterioration. Check to
be sure the float spring has not been stretched. If any part of the float is dam-
aged, the unit must be replaced. Check the float arm needle contacting surface
and replace the float if this surface has a groove worn in it.
Inspect all 0-rings, seals and gaskets. All of these components become hard
with age and tend to become brittle and deteriorate. This affects their ability to
seal properly, so its always a good idea to replace them anytime the carburetor
1. Carburetor assy 7. Bolt is apart for service.
2. Jet, pilot 8. Jet, main Inspect the tapered section of the idle adjusting needles and replace any that
3. Screw, pi lot 9. Pump assy. set have developed a groove.
4. Float 10. Valve set Inspect the fuel pump diaphragm for tears. Any damage to the diaphragm
5. Needle 11. Knob. choke lever means it must be replaced.
6. Screw, throttle stop 12. Lever, choke As previously mentioned, most of the parts which should be replaced during
05004G12
a carburetor overhaul are included in overhaul kits available from your local
Fig. 35 Exploded view of the DT9.9, DT15 and 1989-97 OTB carbure- marine dealer. One of these kits will contain a matched fuel inlet needle and
tor with major parts identified
DISASSEMBLY

1. Remove the fuel pump from the carburetor body by removing the screws.
2. Remove the bolt and washer from the float bowl. Remove the float bowl
and 0-ring from the carburetor body. Discard the used 0-ring.
3. Remove the float hinge pin and remove the float and pin assembly from
the carburetor body.
4. Remove the inlet needle. 05004G14
,..The inlet needle valve seat is fixed to the carburetor body. If the seat Fig. 36 Blow out all passages with compressed air
is damaged, the carburetor body must be replaced ..
05004G15
05004G13
Fig. 37 Replace idle adjusting needles that have developed
Step 1 ;irooves

FUEL SYSTEM 4-17
seat. This combination should be replaced each time the carburetor is disas-
sembled as a precaution against leakage.
ASSEMBLY

A float level inspection and adjustment are very important parts of an engine
tune-up. The float level setting is correct when the "float height" is set to the
proper specification.
1. Install the float and hinge pin into the carburetor body.
2. Invert the carburetor body, making sure that the float hinge pin doesn't
fall out.
3. Keeping the float arm free, measure the distance between the carburetor 05004G16
body (with the gasket removed) to the bottom of the float. Correct float height is: Step 3
0.91-0 98 in. (23 0-25.0 mm).
4. Turn in the pilot (idle) screw, counting the turns in (for reassembly later)
until it lightly seats. DT20 to DT85, DT115 and DT140
5. Install the pilot (idle) jet with the proper tool.
6. Install the main jet. Use jet removal tool or a wide blade screwdriver. t See Figures 38, 39 and 40
7. Install the inlet needle.
8. Install the float bowl and new 0-ring onto the carburetor body. Different variations of these carburetor models have been used on Suzuki
9. Install the fuel pump onto the carburetor body. outboards, but they all operate in the same manner. The major differences in
1. Pilot jet 5. Float

2. Nozzle 6. Pilot air screw
3. Main jet 7. Float bowl
4. Needle valve assy. 8. Float bowl gasket
05004P56
Fig. 38 Exploded view of the single carburetor with all major parts identified

4-18 FUEL SYSTEM
CD Throttle control rod
® Pilot screw
@ Pilotjet
© Needle valve
@ High speed nozzle
@Main jet
<J) Float
@ Drain screw CD
/
l/1/
05004G18
Fig. 39 Exploded view of the three-cylinder carburetors including linkage rods
(DT115) (DT140)
24
~ 24
23 3
23 'C -· '}l:l--26 25
2~fl~,,.
r; 11 l
e:i2' -,·f'l::::.
c::z,, •
~ 10 ~
t1n•ol'L-13
's~~ ~·
15~ ll-12
16---""'®--11
Q_'. !--20
,"9 __J
1. Top carburetor 9. Adjuster 17. Float 25. Fuel hose

2. 2nd carburetor 10. Spring 18. Gasket 26. Fuel hose clip
3. 3rd carburetor 11. Pilotjet 19 Lock washer
4. 4th carburetor 12. Main jet 20. Bolt
5. Stud bolt 13. Nozzle 21. Throttle lever
6. Washer 14. Valve seat gasket 22. Connector
7. Lock washer 15. Needle valve assy 23. Plate
8. Nut 16. Pin 24. Circlip
05004G19
Fig. 40 Exploded view of the four-cylinder carburetors including linkage rods

FUEL SYSTEM 4-19
these carburetors are mostly confined to different calibrations and linkage 7. After removing the carburetor nuts, lift the carburetors off the engine.
setups. Removal procedures may vary slightly due to differences in linkage. To install:
These differences will be noted whenever they make a substantial change in a 8. Identify each carburetor by the mark scribed on the float bowl during
procedure. removal. Place the carburetors in-line on the work bench.
9. Install the throttle and choke linkage.
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 10. Place a new one piece gasket on the carburetor throats and align the
silencer case to the carburetor assemblies.
t See accompanying illustrations 11. Install the fuel hose from the fuel filter to the carburetors. Secure all
connections with the clamps.
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 12. Install the silencer cover over the silencer case.
2. Mark each individual carburetor on the float to aid in reinstallation. 13. Install and tighten the screws securing the silencer cover in place.
3. Disconnect any linkage rods and control cables. 14. Mount the outboard unit in a test tank, or put the boat in a body of
4. Disconnect any fuel or oil injection hoses. water, or connect a flush attachment and hose to the lower unit. Connect a
5. Remove the air silencer cover from the carburetor assembly tachometer to the powerhead.
6. Remove the silencer case from the carburetors.
05004P19
Step 6
05004P22 05004P12 05004P15

4-20 FUEL SYSTEM
DISASSEMBLY
**CAUTION
Never operate the engine at high speed with a flush device t See accompanying illustrations
attached. The engine, operating at high speed with such a device
The following procedures pick up the work after the carburetors have been
attached, would runaway from lack of a load on the propeller, caus- removed from the powerhead. The procedures for each of the carburetors is
ing extensive damage.
identical. Any differences in float height measurement, pilot screw turns, jets, or
Start the engine and check the completed work. any other adjustments will be clearly identified for the carburetor including loca-
tion and model.
**CAUTION 1. Remove the float bowl drain screw and spring and drain any remaining
fuel into a suitable container.
Water must circulate through the lower unit to the powerhead any- 2. Remove the screws securing the float bowl to the mixing chamber.
time the powerhead is operating to prevent damage to the water 3. Remove and discard the 0-ring or gasket from the float bowl.
pump in the lower unit. Just five seconds without water will damage 4. Slide the float hinge pin to one side and remove the float and the pin
the water pump impeller. from the carburetor body.
5. Grasp the float and gently remove it from the carburetor body.
Allow the powerhead to warm to normal operating temperature. Adjust the 6. Gently remove the needle valve from the needle seat.
throttle stop screw until the powerhead idles at specification. Rotating the 7. Inspect the needle valve tip for damage.
throttle stop screw clockwise increases powerhead speed, and rotating the screw 8. Remove the needle seat and gasket assembly. Inspect the gasket for
counterclockwise decreases powerhead speed. damage.
05004P47
Step 7 Step 8

FUEL SYSTEM 4-21
04704PS1
Fig. 41 Inspect the taper on the end of the pilot screw for ridges or
signs of roughness. Good shop practice dictates a new pilot screw
05004P54
be installed each time the carburetor is overhauled
Step 15
burrs which might cause a leak. Check the float ior deterioration. Check to be
9. Remove the pilot jet. sure the needle valve spring has not been stretched. If any part of the float is
10. Remove the main jet. damaged, the float must be replaced. Check the needle valve rubber tip contact-
11. Inspect the main jet for damage or debris blocking the orifice. Look ing surface and replace the needle valve if this surface has a groove worn in it.
closely and you can read the jet number stamped on the jet itself. Inspect the tapered section of the pilot screw and replace the screw if it has
12. Invert the mixing chamber and shake it, keeping a hand over the center developed a groove.
turret. The main nozzle should fall free from the turret. If the nozzle refuses to As previously mentioned, most of the parts which should be replaced during
fall out, gently reach in with a pick or similar instrument to raise the nozzle. a carburetor overhaul are included in an overhaul kit available from your local
13. Obtain the correct size thin walled socket and remove the valve seat. marine dealer. One of these kits will contain a matched fuel inlet needle and
Remove and discard the 0-ring. seat. This combination should be replaced each time the carburetor is disas-
14. Remove the two Phillips head screws securing the top cover to the top sembled as a precaution against leakage.
of the mixing chamber. Lift off the cover.
15. Remove the pilot screw and spring from the carburetor. Count and record ASSEMBLY
the number of turns in to a lightly seated position as a guide for installation. The
specific number of turns will also be specified in the installation procedures. • See accompanying illustration
CLEANING & INSPECTION 1. Slide a new spring over the pilot screw.
2. Install the pilot screw into the carburetor. Tighten the pilot screw until it
• See Figure 41 barely seats. From this position, back out the screw the specified number of
turns. Take notice, each year of manufacture has a different pilot screw setting.
Furthermore, each carburetor has a different screw setting on certain models.
**CAUTION 3. Slide a new 0-ring over the shaft of the valve seat. Install and tighten the
Never dip rubber or plastic parts, in carburetor cleaner. These parts seat snugly, using a thin walled socket.
should be cleaned only in solvent, and then blown dry with com- 4. Insert the main nozzle into the aft hole on the center turret. Position the
pressed air. series of holes in the nozzle to face port and starboard when installed.
5. Install the main jet over the main nozzle. Tighten the jet until it seats
Place all metal parts in a screen type tray and dip them in carburetor cleaner snugly.
until they appear completely clean, then blow them dry with compressed air. 6. Install the pilot jet into the forward hole on the center turret. Tighten the
Blow out all passages in the castings with compressed air. Check all parts jet until it seats snugly.
and passages to be sure they are not clogged or contain any deposits. Never 7. Check to be sure the wire clip is securely in position around the needle
use a piece of wire or any type of pointed instrument to clean drilled passages valve. Slide the clip over the tang on the float, and check to see if the needle
or calibrated holes in a carburetor. valve can be moved freely.
Move the throttle and choke shafts back and forth to check for wear. If the 8. Slide the hinge pin through the hole in the float.
shaft appears to be too loose, replace the complete mixing chamber because 9. Lower the float assembly over the center turret, guiding the needle valve
individual replacement parts are not available. into the needle seat and positioning the end of the hinge pin under its retaining
Inspect the mixing chamber, and fuel bowl gasket surfaces for cracks and screw. Tighten the screw securely.

4-22 FUEL SYSTEM
V4 & V6 Powerheads
Suzuki V4 powerheads use two carburetors and V6 powerheads use three
carburetors. Complete, detailed, illustrated, procedures to remove, service, and
CD Pilot screw
® Needle valve assembly
@Pilot jet
©Float
@ High speed .nozzle
@Jet holder assembly
(J) Main jet
Step 10
10. Hold the mixing chamber in the inverted position, (as it has been held
during the past few steps). Measure the distance between the carburetor
body and the bottom of the float on all models with the exception of the
1989-00 DT25 and the 1988-97 DT30. These models are measured from the
float bowl mating surface (gasket removed) to the bottom of the float. This
distance should be as specified in the carburetor float height chart.
**CAUTION
Carefully bend the adjustment arm or tang when adjustment is
necessary. DO NOT press down on the float. Downward pressure on
the float will press the inlet needle into the valve seat and damage the Fig. 42 Exploded view of the V4 carburetor assembly with the
needle tip. major components identified
CD Pilot screw
(l:: Needle valve assembly
@Pilot jet
(!:. Float
([; High speed nozzle
®Jet holder assembly
(f; Main jet
Fig. 43 Exploded view of the V6 carburetor assembly with the major components identified

FUEL SYSTEM 4-23
install the carburetors follow. Removal procedures may vary slightly due to dif- 12. Identify each carburetor by inscribing or painting a 1, 2 and 3 (if applic-
ferences in linkage. able) on the float bowl cover to ensure each carburetor will be installed back
As explained in the description of the carburetors, the float arrange- into the same position from which it was removed.
ment and adjustments differ due to a change in carburetor vendor. These 13. Remove the mounting nuts, then remove the carburetors as an assem-
differences are noted whenever they make a substantial change in a proce- bly. Each carburetor has a separate gasket which may either come away with
dure. the carburetor, or remain on the intake manifold. Remove and discard these
gaskets.
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION Place the carburetor assembly on the workbench and remove each piece of
linkage one at a time. Arrange the linkage on the workbench as it was installed
t See accompanying illustrations on the carburetors, as an assist during assembling.
To install:
1. Disconnect the battery negative cable. Install each marked carburetor (in the same location as disassembly) and
2. Remove the engine cover. gasket assembly on the engine and install the correct linkages.
3. Remove the fuel inlet hose from the fuel filter. 14. Install the throttle sensor on the throttle shaft.
4. Disconnect the oil level switch lead wires 15. Install the fuel supply hoses to the carburetors and install the plastic
5. Disconnect the oil hoses. hose retainers.
6. Remove the oil tank. 16. lnnstall the throttle control lever and arm.
7. Disconnect the throttle lever rod from the carburetors. 17. Connect the oil hoses.
8. Remove the bolts and then remove the silencer cover. 18. Install the silencer cover and bolts.
9. Remove the throttle control lever and arm. 19. Connect the throttle lever rod from the carburetors.
10. Snip the plastic hose retainers and gently pull off the fuel supply hoses 20. Connect the oil level switch lead wires and install the oil tank.
from the carburetors. 21. Install the fuel inlet hose from the fuel filter.
11. After marking the position of the throttle sensor, remove the two secur- 22. Install the engine cover.
ing screws and lift out the sensor from its plastic coupling. Slide the plastic 23. Connect the battery negative cable.
coupling from the throttle shaft.
05004P94 05004P95
Step 8 Step 13

4-24 FUEL SYSTEM
DISASSEMBLY ,..Before removing the pilot screw, turn ii all the way in until ii lightly
seats. Record the number of turns needed to turn in the screw for
• See accompanying illustrations reassembly.
1. Remove the !!oat bowl attaching screws and remove the !!oat bowl 8. Unscrew and remove the pilot (idle) screw and spring assembly.
2. Always discard the old gasket. 9. Remove both high speed nozzles.
3. Slide the !!oat hinge pin to one side and remove the pin assembly from 10. Remove the main jet holder from each side o! the float bowl.
the carburetor body. 11. Remove the main jet from each main jet holder with the appropriate tool.
4. Remove the !!oat from the carburetor body. 12. Remove and always discard the 0-ring on each main jet holder.
5. Remove the inlet needle valve from the valve seat. 13. Clean and inspect all the internal parts in the carburetor.
6. Remove the inlet needle valve seat using the appropriate tool.
7. Remove the pilot (idle) jet from the carburetor body: FUEL LEVEL TEST
For this test, you will need to acquire the following Suzuki special tools: Fuel
Level Gauge Adaptor (p/n 09913-18711) and Fuel Level Gauge (p/n
09932-28211)
2. Connect atachometer to the engine !allowing the manufacturers instructions.
3. Remove the left-hand main jet holder from the carburetor float bowl.
4. Remove the main jet and 0-ring from the main jet holder.
5. Install the main jet into the special tool adaptor.
6. Install the fuel level gauge into the and install the entire assembly into
the carburetor float bowl.
7. Start the engine and let it idle. If necessary, readjust the idle to the
speed specified in the "Tune-Up Specifications" chart.
8. The height o! the fuel in the gauge should be as follows: 0.83-0.91 in.
(21.0-23.0 mm).
9. I! the fuel level is not to specification, adjust the fuel level by adjusting
the !!oat level tab.
10. Remove the main jet and 0-ring from the adaptor.
11. Reinstall the main jet and 0-ring onto the main jet holder and install
them into the carburetor !!oat bowl.
12. Repeat this procedure with the other carburetors.
13. Remove the tachometer.
05004P4A 05004P98 05004P99

FUEL SYSTEM 4-25
CLEANING & INSPECTION a carburetor overhaul are included in an overhaul kit available from your local
marine dealer. One of these kits will contain a matched fuel inlet needle and
• See Figure 44 seat. This combination should be replaced each time the carburetor is disas-
sembled as a precaution against leakage.
**CAUTION ASSEMBLY
Never dip rubber or plastic parts in carburetor cleaner. These parts
should be cleaned only in solvent, and then blown dry with com- • See accompanying illustration
pressed air.
1. Install the main jet in the main jet holder with a new 0-ring.
Place all metal parts in a screen type tray and dip them in carburetor cleaner 2. Install the main jet holders into the float bowl.
until they appear completely clean, then blow them dry with compressed air. 3. Install the high speed nozzles.
Blow out all passages in the castings with compressed air. Check all parts 4. Install the pilot screw and spring. Turn in the screw until it lightly seats,
and passages to be sure they are not clogged or contain any deposits. Never then back 1t out the correct number of turns.
use a piece of wire or any type of pointed instrument to clean drilled passages 5. Install the pilot (idle) jet.
or calibrated holes in a carburetor. 6. Install the fuel inlet needle valve and valve seat into the carburetor body.
Move the throttle and choke shafts back and forth to check for wear. If the 7. Install the float.
shaft appears to be too loose, replace the complete mixing chamber because 8. Invert the carburetor and lower the float until the adjusting tab on the float
individual replacement parts are not available. just touches the needle. Hold the float in the is position and measure the height
Inspect the mixing chamber, and fuel bowl gasket surfaces for cracks and between the carburetor body (with gasket removed) and the bottom of the float.
burrs which might cause a leak. Check the floats for deterioration. Check to be 9. If the float level is not within specification, adjust the level by bending the
sure the needle valve loop has not been stretched. If any part of the float is dam- adjusting tab as needed.
aged, the float must be replaced. Check the needle valve tip contacting surface
and replace the needle valve if this surface has a groove worn in it.
Inspect the tapered section of the pilot screw and replace the screw if it has
developed a groove.
As previously mentioned, most of the parts which should be replaced during
05004G14
05004P9A
Fig. 44 Use compressed air to blow out all the carburetor passage-
ways Step 8
REED VALVE SERVICE

The reed valves operafe in response to changes in crankcase pressure.
Located between the intake manifold and the crankcase, the reed valves admit All Other Models
the air-fuel mixture into the crankcase and during the scavenging stroke, act • See Figures 45 and 46
as a one-way valve to prevent the mixture from flowing back into the intake
manifold. The travel of the reed itself is limited by the reed stop. By this
action, the scavenging action is improved and the engine will produce greater
power.
On all Suzuki models, except the DT2 and DT2.2, the reed valves are located
between the intake manifold and the crankcase. On the DT2 models the reed
valves are an integral part of the front crankcase half of the engine.
DT2, DT2.2

CD Valve seat
~ Reed valve stopper
On these models, the reed valves are located in the front half of the @Reed valve
engine crankcase. In order to access the reed valves on this model, the 05004G23
engine must be removed and the crankcase separated. See "Powerhead
Overhaul". Fig. 45 Typical in-line reed valve assembly

4-26 FUEL SYSTEM
8. Install new gaskets and tighten the reed valve assembly to the
crankcase.
9. Reconnect any hoses to the intake manifold.
10. Install the carburetor assembly.
INSPECTION & CLEANING

1. Check the reeds for sign of cracking, wear or any other damage. Replace
the reeds if any damage is found.
1. Reed 2. Check the reeds to see if they lie flat on the valve seat with no preload on
2. Seat
05004G27 them.
3. To check the flatness of the reed, gently push each reed out from the seat.
Fig. 46 Typical V·block reed valve assembly Constant resistance should be felt while pushing the reed.
4. Check the clearance between the reed and the seat with a feeler gauge. If
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION the clearance is greater than 0.008 in. (0.20 mm), you will need to replace the
reed set.
5. Measure the distance between the reed stop and the valve seat. If
• See accompanying illustrations the measurement is not within specifications, check the valve seat for
1. Remove the carburetor assembly. warpage and replace it as required. If the seat is okay, replace the reed stop
2. Disconnect any hose attached to the intake manifold. assembly.
~on some models, the reed valve assembly is secured by separate fas- REED & REED STOP REPLACEMENT
teners. On models with this design, the intake manifold must first be
removed in order to remove the reed valve and gasket assembly.
• See Figure 49
3. Remove the intake manifold fasteners holding the intake manifold to the
1. Remove the screws holding the reed stop and reeds to the valve seat.
crankcase cover.
2. Remove the reed stop and reeds.
4. Remove the intake manifolds.
3. Place the new reed on the valve seat and check the assembly for flat-
5. Remove the gaskets and reed valve assemblies from the crankcase.
ness.
Make sure to discard all used gaskets.
4. Center the reed over the valve seat openings.
6. Clean all the mounting surfaces of any sealant or gasket residue.
5. Before installing the reed stop screws, apply a thread locker.
To install:
6. Check the reed tension and range of motion.
7. Make sure during installation that the reeds are installed in the correct
direction.
05004P26 05004P27 05004P30
®@
l
©
©Valve seat
'-
® Reed valve stopper
~ @Reed valve
05004G26 05004G24
Step 7 Fig. 47 Typical reed valve measurement dimensions

FUEL SYSTEM 4-27
Fig. 48 Check the clearance between the reed and the seat with a
feeler gauge Fig. 49 Removing the reed valve stop
FUEL PUMP SERVICE

2. Remove the retaining screws that hold the pump to the carburetor.
Diaphragm Type Fuel Pumps 3. Remove the pump as an assembly.
DESCRIPTION & OPERATION To install:
4. Reassemble the pump components in the reverse order of
The smaller capacity powerheads do not have a fuel pump of any type. disassembly, using new gaskets.
Fuel is provided to the carburetor by gravity flow from the fuel tank atop the 5. Mount the pump assembly back on the side of the carburetor. Do not
powerhead. over-tighten the mounting screws.
The rest of the carbureted models use a diaphragm-type fuel pump. 6. Unplug and reinstall the fuel hoses.
These pumps are operated by crankcase pressures. These pressure pulses
are created by the movement of the piston in the crankcase and are directed OVERHAUL
to the pump by a passageway in the crankcase wall.
The piston moving upwards creates a low-pressure on the diaphragm in Remote Mounted
the pump body. This low pressure opens a check valve in the pump body, • See Figures 50 thru 61
allowing fuel to be drawn from the fuel line to the pump. At the same time,
the low pressure in the crankcase draws the air-fuel mixture into the There are several variations in the pumps used on the different models.
crankcase from the intake manifold and carburetors. All operate in the same manner, but there are differences in the internal
Downward motion of the piston creates a high-pressure on the
diaphragm. This high-pressure closes the inlet check valve in the pump body
and open the outlet check valve, forcing the fuel in the fuel lines into the
carburetor float bowl and moving the fuel-air mixture in the crankcase into
the combustion chamber where ignition occurs.
This type of fuel pump is not powerful enough to draw fuel from the fuel
tank during cranking. In that case, it is necessary to introduce fuel into the
carburetor with the priming bulb mounted on the fuel line.
Suzuki uses both powerhead mounted, remote pumps and integral
carburetor/fuel pumps. Both designs are very simple and reliable. The most
common failure is to the diaphragm, and dirty fuel can block the check valve,
causing it to fail. Most fuel systems are equipped with a separate fuel filter
and some are equipped with a fuel/water separating filter assembly.

Remote Mounted
1. Loosen the hose clamps and slide the fuel lines off the pump body.
Plug the hoses to prevent fuel leaks.
2. Remove the screws holding the pump to the powerhead and pull the
fuel pump off the power head.
3. If so equipped, remove the fuel pump insulator from the powerhead.
4. Thoroughly clean the pump mounting surface of any gasket or sealer
residue. Do not scratch or gouge the sealing surface of the powerhead.
To install: 1. Pump assy, fuel 7. Net, filter
5. If needed, install the fuel pump insulator and new 0-ring. 2. Gasket 8. Gasket, filter
6. Install the pump onto the powerhead with a new gasket and 0-ring in 3. Diaphragm, fuel pump 9. Hose, vacuum IL: 11)
the pump body. 4. Membrane, fuel pump 10. Filter, fuel
5. Cock assy, fuel 11. Plug, fuel connector
Carburetor Mounted 6. Cup, filter 12. 3 way, joint pipe
1. Remove the fuel hose at the pump inlet cover and plug the line. Fig. 50 Fuel pump assembly-DT4 and DT5Y

4-28 FUEL SYSTEM
==--- CD Fuel filter
®Packing
@o ring
©Strainer
@Cup
® Fuel pump assy
<J) Diaphragm set
®Gasket
Fig. 51 Fuel pump assembly-DT6 ' OTB
----
Fig. 53 Fuel pump and fu el filter assembly-DT25 and DT35 (3-

cylinde..r,)'.__ _ __
1 Fuel pump assy. 14 Clip

2: Diaphragm set 15. Fuel hose clamp
3 Valve set 16: Fuel filter assy.
4: Diaphragm stopp er 17. Filter assy.
5 O-ring ·ng 18 _Packing
. I mp o-n 19_ O-ring
6. Fue pu p insulator 20. Strainer
7. Fuel pum
8 Stud bolt 21. Cup
9: Lock washer 22. Filter bracket
10. Nut 23. Lock washer
11 . Hose 24 Nut fuel
1. Pump assy • set
12. Hose 25.. Lock washer 2 Diaphragm
13_ Hose 26. Bolt 3. Gasket, fuel pump
27. Fuel hose osoo4G31
4: Hose, fuel
5. Valve
05004G71
Fig. 52 Fuel pump and fu el filter assembly-DT20 and DT25 (2-
cylinder) Fig. 54 Fuel pump and lu el filter assem bly-DT40
'--::='.::...:.:...____

FUEL SYSTEM 4-29
1. Fuel pump ass'y

2. Diaphragm set
3. Fuel pump insulator Match marks
4. Fuel hose 05004G34
5. Fuel hose
6. Fuel hose
7. Fuel filter ass'y
8. 0-ring
9. Strainer
10. Cup
11. Packing
05004G33
Fig. 55 Fuel pump and fuel filter assembly-DT50 Fig. 56 Matchmark the pump assembly for installation reference
CDFuel tilter assy.

® Fuel pump assy.
@ Fuel strainer
@Cap
@ Fuel pump gasket
® Diaphragm set
05004G35
Fig. 57 Fuel pump and fuel filter assembly-DT55 and DT65

4-30 FU EL SYSTEM
CD Fuel pump assy.

@ Diaphragm set
@ "O" ring
@Insulator
® "O" ring
® Fuel filter assy.
<J) Fuel strainer
@Cap
05004G36
Fig. 58 Fuel pump and filter assembly-DT75 and DT85
CD Fuel pump assy.

@ Diaphragm set
@ "O" ring
@ Fuel filter assy.
@ Fuel strainer
@Cap
(j) Primer bulb
05004G37

FUEL SYSTEM 4-31
CD Fuel pump assy.

® Diaphragm set
@ "O" ring
© Insulator
@ "O" ring
® Fuel filter assy.
<J) Fuel strainer
@Cap
05004G38
CDFuel pump assy.

® Diaphragm set
@ "O" ring
@ Fuel filter assy.
@ Fuel strainer
@Cap
05004G39
Fig. 61 Fuel pump and fuel filler assembly-DT150, DT175 and DT200

4-32 FUEL SYSTEM
parts. Make sure to note the location of any of these parts during disassem-
bly.
Mark the pump assembly prior to disassembly. This will ensure that the
pump will go back together in the order that it was taken apart.
'if-3
iI
Refer to the exploded view drawings in this section during overhaul.
Carburetor Mounted
Mark the pump assembly prior to disassembly. This will ensure that the
pump will go back together in the order that it was taken apart.
Refer to the exploded view drawing in this section during overhaul.
Separate the pump cover, diaphragm, valve assembly and pump body. Dis-
card the used gaskets.
11
1 . Carburetor assy 7. Bolt

2. Jet, pilot 8. Jet, main
3. Screw, pilot 9. Pump assy, set
4. Float 10. Valve set
5. Needle 11. Knob, choke lever
05004G13 6. Screw, throttle stop 12. Lever, choke
05004G30
Fig. 62 Remove the fuel pump from the carburetor body- DT9.9
and DT15 Fig. 63 DT9.9 and DT15 fuel pump assembly
ELECTRONIC FUEL INJECTION

• A set of input devices to inform the ECU of engine performance parameters.
Description and Operation • A set of output devices. Each device is controlled by the ECU. These
The fuel injection control system on the DT115, DT140, DT150, DT200 and devices modify fuel delivery and timing. Changes to fuel and timing are based
DT225 models, detects the current condition of the engine through various sen- on input information matched to the map programs.
sors mounted on the engine. These sensors send information to the micro-com- This list gets a little more complicated when you start to look at specific
puter as electrical signals. Based on these electrical signals, the computer components. Some fuel injection systems may have twenty or more input
determines the optimal amount of fuel needed for the engines current condition devices. On many systems, output control can extend beyond fuel and timing.
and calculates the injection duration time. The fuel injectors receive this dura- The Suzuki Fuel Injection System provides more than just the basic functions,
tion signal and inject the fuel into the intake manifold. but is still straight forward in its layout. There are twelve input devices and six
output controls. The diagram on the following page shows the input and output
FUEL INJECTION BASICS devices with their functions.
There are several fuel injection delivery methods. Throttle body injection is
• See Figure 64 relatively inexpensive and was used widely in early automotive systems This is
usually a low pressure system running at 15 PSI or less. Often an engine with a
**CAUTION single carburetor was selected for throttle body injection. The carburetor was
recast to hold a single injector. and the original manifold was retained. Throttle
Precautions must be taken not to cause damage to expensive elec- body injection is not as precise or efficient as port injection.
tronic components during these service procedures. Multi-port fuel injection is defined as one or more electrically activated sole-
noid injectors for each cylinder. Multi-port injection generally operates at higher
Fuel injection is not a new invention. Even as early as the 1950s, various pressures than throttle body systems. The Suzuki system operates at 35.5 PSI.
automobile manufacturers experimented with mechanical-type injection sys- Port injectors can be triggered two ways. One system uses simultaneous
tems. There was even a vacuum tube equipped control unit offered for one sys- injection. All injectors are triggered at once. The fuel "hangs around" until the
tem! This might have been the first "electronic fuel injection system." Early pressure drop in the cylinder pulls the fuel into the combustion chamber.
problems with fuel injection revolved around the control components. The elec- The second type is more precise and follows the firing order of the engine.
tronics were not very smart or reliable. These systems have steadily improved Each cylinder gets a squirt of fuel precisely when needed.
since. Today's fuel injection technology, responding to the need for better econ-
omy and emission control, has become amazingly reliable and efficient. Com- SUZUKI ELECTRONIC FUEL INJECTION
puterized engine management, the brain of fuel injection, continues to get more
reliable and more precise. • See Figure 65
Components needed for a basic computer-controlled system are as follows:
• A computer-controlled engine manager, which is the Electronic Control Suzuki uses the multi-point, sequential method of fuel injection. The whole
Unit (or ECU), with a set of internal maps to follow. system can be divided into three areas: air intake system, fuel system and the
control system.

FUEL SYSTEM 4-33
ECU
IGNmON CONTROL
CRANK POSmoN
SENSOR
OIL TANK
04704G40
Fig. 64 Suzuki electronic fuel injection schematic
_L AIR INDUCTION SYSTEM

ELECTRONIC FUEL INJECTION L. FUEL SYSTEM
ELECTRONIC CONTROL SYSTEM
-i:=----:fs~aa~;i;:,rJ:Ijswitch
r- ~----~ ~J
ECU (CDI unit) t-------1---. M
relay r
. __[_______. Starter motor Battery
FUEL SYSTEM
. . . Gasoline
t l~
· ¢Oil
Pre-mixed fuel
l
-
---~
1. THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR Vapor separator

2. AIR TEMPERATURE SENSOR
3. AIR PRESSURE SENSOR
4. OXYGEN SENSOR
5. KNOCK SENSOR
6. WATER TEMPERATURE SENSOR
7. CRANK POSITION SENSOR
8. PULSER COIL
Fig. 65 Suzuki electronic fuel injection system components

4-34 FUEL SYSTEM
Air flows through the throttle body and surge tank to the intake manifold, erence signal from these coils. Under this condition, the engine can be cranked
where the intake air is mixed with a combined fuel/oil mixture that has been but it will not start without fuel injection.
delivered through the fuel injector. The throttle sensor assesses the throttle The only input that will shut the engine down completely is battery voltage. If
opening angle and sends the corresponding signal to the control unit the battery is disconnected or the battery voltage falls below 9 volts, the fuel
Fuel is drawn through the primer bulb to the low pressure fuel pump. Upon pump quits pumping so the engine stops.
reaching the vapor separator, the gasoline is mixed with oil (supplied directly The Suzuki fuel injection system is divided into three component groups.
from the oil pump to the vapor separator) and the combined fuel/oil mixture These are:
goes through the high-pressure fuel pump and delivery gallery. The pressure • Electronic control system
regulator maintains the fuel pressure in the feed line, from the high pressure • Fuel system
fuel pump to the fuel injector. This pressure, maintained at a constant level, is • Air intake system
higher than the manifold pressure (injector nozzle ambient pressure). When the The air induction and fuel systems are the delivery agents for the fuel/ air
higher fuel pressure in the feed line exceeds the pressure in the manifold by mixture. The fuel delivery system is controlled by the electronic control system.
more than approximately 36.6 psi (2.55 kg-cm), the valve in the pressure regu- The electronic control system can be further subdivided into input sensors (the
lator will open, thereby returning fuel to the vapor separator through the fuel informants), outputs (the workers that make adjustments to fuel and timing), and
return hose. The fuel/oil mixture is injected into the intake manifold by the fuel the computer (the boss or decision maker).
injector when the signal is supplied from the engine control unit (ECU).
The electronic fuel injection control system is primarily based on the signals Electronic Control System
supplied from both the engine speed sensor (gear counter coil) and the throttle
valve sensor (TPS). To compensate for other conditions, a cylinder wall temper-
t See Figure 66
ature sensor, air temperature sensor and atmospheric pressure sensor are also The electronic control system has the largest number of individual compo-
used. Based on these sensor signals, the engine control unit (ECU) determines nents. Each component is connected to the control unit. The control unit func-
the injection time duration and sends the injection signal to the injector. The tions in several modes
ECU's sequential multi-point programming provides individual control of each
injector operating duration and timing. FAIL SAFE MOOE
An additional feature of the Suzuki system is return-to-port capability or fail When any of the sensors of the ECU fails, the self diagnostic system will indi-
safe mode. If there is a major sensor failure that prevents the ECU from pro- cate the failure location by means of the indicator lamp flashing out the code for
cessing, the engine is run on a minimum performance map. If either the counter the failure. In the event of such afailure, another system, called the back-up sys-
coil or pulser coil fail, the ECU will not provide an injection signal without a ref-
Electronic
fuel injec-
Low pressure tion control
fuel pump unit
:,
Ignition 0> -
control
unit "'"'
,_ c:
Q) .2'
c: ..
·o, c:
c: 0
w·;::
Fuel tank
Throttle
sensor
Throttle
valve
05004G41
Fig. 66 Note how each component of the system is interconnected to other components

FUEL SYSTEM 4-35
tern, will come into operation. This system provides alternative signals to compen- mal duty (repeating the "ON" time rate within a cycle) and sends the signal to
sate for the ECU or sensor failure so that the engine will not stop running and the fuel pump.
continue to operate. Because of this provision, an emergency, return-to-dock oper-
ation will be possible, but the engine will run in a much reduced state of tune. INJECTION MODE
FUEL PUMP CONTROL • See Figure 68
• See Figure 67 During starting conditions, fuel is sequentially injected into each cylinder
while cranking.
To supply the optimal amount of fuel, the ECM controls the duty cycle signal Alter the powerhead is started, fuel control falls under one of three modes.
for the fuel pump drive, which repeats the ON/OFF cycle at a specified rate 1. Warm-up mode. For the first 3 minutes upon start-up, the ECU controls
(1,000 times a second). Based on engine speed, the ECM determines the opti- the fuel injection duration as the "Warm-up (Enrichment) mode". This mode is
Power from battery
Ignition switch Fuel pump

"ON" operation
I
I
1 '" -1 2 sec. only
L- - - ~ 1Jl I------'
Ignition switch
Pulser coil ..., L:.:: .!
"START" signal
(Cranking) I r-- ..
LJl!ooj(g_;r-----..-------'
:---~
r•'@ 1-- - -- ~--------'
I ~--J
Engine start Pulser coil _,I
(Operating) signal
-ECU
Power from
battery
charge coil
05004G48
Fig. 67 Schematic drawing of the fuel pump control system
FUEL INJECTION TIMING CHART
BTDC5° BTDC 5° BTDC5° BTDC 5°

(# 1 CYL) (#3 CYL) (# 1 CYL) (#3 CYL)
u ser co1·1.
Pl s1gna I --,,,....-~---.u------------,u-~~~
U •.---
u
#3 CYL #2 CYL #4 CYL # 1 CYL #3 CYL
Ignition signal J1 n'--_ ___.n n___n___n__
Injection sta~ Iln~ction end~,
# 1 injection signal
-----~~-----~:·~'------'------------'
I I
Duration of # 1 1CYL
..... 1... 1
# 3 injection signal _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _..J11t,-----j1,..~----+---------
Duration of # 3 CYL I
#2 injection signal ~~------------~~r---~:·~'------
Duration of #2 CYL
I
#4 injection signal ..M"r----J.it.._____________il~~----~~L-

Duration of # 4 CYL Duration of # 4 CYL
05004G49
Fig. 68 Fuel injection liming chart

4-36 FUEL SYSTEM
based on the map control in relation to engine speed, throttle valve opening of this unit is to separate the vapor from the fuel delivered by the low pressure
angle and cylinder wall temperature. fuel pump, or fuel that has returned from the pressure regulator. This vapor is
2. Normal operating mode. Three minutes after starting, the ECU changes to "bled" to the throttle body through the hose on the top of the vapor separator.
the "Normal operating mode". This mode is based on the map control in rela-
tion to engine speed, throttle valve opening angle, cylinder wall temperature, air OIL INJECTION
temperature and atmospheric pressure. The separator also functions as the mixing chamber for oil and fuel. Oil is
3. Fail safe mode. Each sensor has an assigned default value programmed injected into the separator tank by the engine-driven oil pump. The amount of
into the ECU. In the event of a sensor failure, the monitor gauge will flash a oil delivered to the separator tank is dependent upon engine RPM and throttle
code indicating the failure and the engine will continue to operate, but with opening. The supply side of the oil injection system is similar to previous mod-
reduced performance. Injection duration during sensor failure automatically els.
defaults to the following control methods:
• Throttle valve sensor failure: Injection duration will be automatically Air Intake System
set according to engine speed
• Cylinder wall temperature sensor failure: injection duration will be t See Figure 72
automatically set if the sensor senses 30°C The throttle body assembly including the throttle valve sensor, is a precision-
• Air temperature sensor failure: Injection duration will be automatically made part which detects the throttle valve opening angle and supplies a signal
set if the sensor senses 20°C to the ECU. Therefore, when replacing any of the components within the throttle
• Atmospheric pressure sensor failure: Injection duration will be auto- body assembly, special care should be taken so as not to alter the precise clear-
matically set if the sensor senses 763 mm Hg (101.7 kPa) ances and operating efficiency of the throttle body.
If either the gear counter coil or the pulser coil fails, the ECU will not provide The air which ahs passed through the throttle body, flows into the surge
and injection signal without a reference from these coils. Under this condition, tank/intake manifold and is then distributed to the reed valves. The throttle body
the engine can be cranked but it will not start due to no fuel being injected. adjusts the air intake amount using the throttle valve which is connected to the
throttle lever and Throttle Position (TP) sensor. The TP sensor is installed on
Fuel Delivery System the top of the throttle body and informs the ECM of the current throttle valve
Fuel injectors require clean, water-free, pressurized gasoline. Fuel is sup- opening angle and is used as a basic signal for the engine control system.
plied through the primer bulb, fuel filter and low pressure fuel pump to the fuel ~Do not try to adjust or remove any of the component parts (sensor
vapor separator. From the fuel vapor separator, the fuel goes through the high base plate, throttle valve, throttle linkage lever, etc.). The TP sensor
pressure fuel pump and on to the fuel rail. The pressure regulator maintains the must be installed and adjusted by following the proper procedure.
fuel pressure in the feed line, from the high pressure fuel pump to the fuel injec-
tor. This pressure, maintained at a constant level, is higher than the barometric
pressure. When the higher fuel pressure in the feed line exceeds the barometric
Cylinder Wall Temperature Sensor
pressure by more than approximately 36.3 psi (255 kPa), the valve in the fuel
pressure regulator will open, allowing fuel to return to the fuel vapor separator DESCRIPTION & OPERATION
through the fuel return hose. The fuel is injected into the intake manifold by the
fuel injector when the signal is supplied by the ECU. Oil mixing is accom- The cylinder wall temperature sensor (a thermistor type) is located on the
plished with a standard oil pump. This pump injects oil into the vapor separator cylinder bank port side. The thermistor's ability to change resistance with tem-
tank. perature is used to measure engine temperature. Voltage flow through the sen-
FUEL SUPPLY ANO VAPOR SEPARATOR TANK sor, it is modified (increased/decreased) by resistance, returns to the ECU as a
voltage signal measurement of the engine temperature. The ECU map then com-
t See Figures 69, 70 and 71 pensates by effecting a temperature based change in fuel injection duration. For
example, a cold engine requires a richer fuel mixture for starting than a fully
The vapor separator incorporates a float system which maintains a constant warmed up engine. This temperature related resistance change also serves as
fuel level inside the body of the unit. When the fuel level decreases, more fuel the signal for compensating ignition timing and overheat detection.
will flow into the vapor separator from the low pressure fuel pump. The function
Low pressure
Fuel tank Primer bulb Fuel filter
fuel pump
High pressure Vapor

Delivery gallery separator
fuel pump
Intake Fuel pressure

Fuel injector manifold regualator
__., High pressure
- Low pressure
05004G42
Fig. 69 Fuel flow

~Fuel
. . . Oil
to Throttle body
~ Fuel/Oil mixture
lJ ~ Vapor (Evaporation)
from Low pressure

~ fuel pump
from Oil pump

from Fuel pressure
regulator (Return)
¢::J Fuel
. . Oil
. . Fuel/Oil mixture
¢::J Vapor (Evaporation)

1J
CD Float
C2) Float arm
Qi Pin
@ Needle valve
@Valve seat
@Gasket
(])Cover
@Body
®Gasket '
to High pressure
fuel pump
from Low pressure
fuel pump
05004G44
11
c
rn
r-
(/)
to High pressure
fuel pump -<
(/)
-I
05004G43
rn
s:
..l::;ii.
I
Fig. 70 One type of vapor separator ... (A)
Fig. 71 ... and another style. They all work on the same principle
.......
4-38 FUEL SYSTEM
CD
" "I
1. Throttle valve sensor I
2. Throttle valve I
3. Throttle body I
4. Sensor base plate I
I
I
I
I 1. Reed valve assy.
I 2. Surge tank
05004G47
Fig. 72 Throttle body, surge tank and reed valve assembly make up the air intake system
TESTING

•The sensor inspection must be performed with the battery connected.
Q
If an out of range condition exists in the sensor signal sent back to the
ECU, the sell-diagnosis system will be indicated by the "CHECK
ENGINE" monitor gauge lamp flashing the code.
1. Connect the multimeter probes to each of the sensor leads.
2. Immerse the sensor's tip in water and gradually heat the water while mon-
itoring the changes in sensor resistance. Check if resistance matches specifica-
tions:
• 32°F (0°C): 5.3-6.6 kilo ohms
• 77°F (25°C): 1.8-2.3 kilo ohms
• 135°F (75°C): 0.33-0.45 kilo ohms
3. On the DT225, check for continuity through the engine harness
between the ECU 2-pin connector Lg/W terminal and the sensor Lg/W lead as
shown.
4. Disconnect the harness to the ECU 2-pin connector and sensor Lg./W 05004G54
lead.
Fig. 73 Immerse the sensor's tip in water and gradually heat the
5. Connect the tester as shown.
6. Check for an indication of continuity (0 Resistance) water while monitoring the changes in sensor resistance

FUEL SYSTEM 4-39
To install:
4. Replace the gasket or 0-ring as equipped.
5. Connect the sensor lead connector securely.
6. Install the sensor on the engine.
7. Replace the engine cover.
Lg/W 8. Connect the battery negative cable.
Atmospheric Pressure Sensor

DESCRIPTION & OPERATION
The atmospheric pressure sensor is located above the throttle body and
measures the ambient air pressure in which the engine is operating. As
pressure affects the sensors ability to conduct voltage, the sensor voltage
signal returning to the ECU is used as a measure of current air pressure. As
altitude changes, atmospheric pressure changes, this affects the air portion
of the fuel/air mixture. The ECU map then compensates for these changes
Cylinder wall by effecting a pressure based change in fuel injection duration. For example,
tern~ '-C::J-~J
an engine operating at sea level with more air pressure requires a richer fuel
mixture than an engine operating in lower air pressure at 5,000 feet altitude.
V-"-4- Lg/W Wire harness TESTING

Range: Rx 1
DT115 and DT140
Fig. 74 On the DT225, check for continuity through the engine The following special tool is required to perform the sensor output test:
harness between the ECU 2-pin connector Lg/W terminal and the • 6-pin connector test cord (pin 09930-89251)
sensor Lg/W lead as shown 1. With the multi-meter set on DC volts, connect the tester positive (red)
to the gray lead on the test cord and the tester negative (black) to ground.
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 2. Turn the ignition on and check the voltage. Output should measure
approximately 3.64 volts at 14.6 psi (101.3 kPa).
1. Disconnect the battery negative cable. 3. If the sensor does not meet this specification, replace the sensor.
3. Locate the sensor on the engine and remove it using the appropriate • Make sure the wiring harness assembly between the ECU and
tools. sensor has continuity.
To install:
4. Replace the gasket or 0-ring as equipped.
5. Connect the sensor lead connector securely. DT150/DT200 (1988-93)
6. Install the sensor on the engine. 1. With the multi-meter set on DC volts, connect the negative (black) to
7. Replace the engine cover. the sensor black wire and the tester positive (red) to the sensor white wire.
8. Connect the battery negative cable. 2. Turn the ignition on and check the voltage. Output should measure
Air Temperature Sensor 3. If the sensor does not meet this specification, replace the sensor.
DT150/DT200 (1994 and later) and DT225

The following special tool is required to perform the sensor voltage test:
The air temperature sensor, also a thermistor, is located above the throttle • 3-pin connector test cord (3-branch harness) (p/n 09930-89220)
body. Voltage flow through the sensor, is modified (increased/decreased) by 1. Turn the ignition switch off.
resistance, returns to the ECU as a voltage signal measurement of the air 2. Connect the 3-pin connector test cord between the atmospheric
temperature flowing into the throttle body. As air intake temperature changes, pressure sensor and the main wiring harness.
air density also changes, which affects the air/fuel mixture ratio. The ECU 3. Connect the multi-meter as follows:
map then compensates for these air density changes to the mixture by • Tester positive(+): atmospheric pressure sensor white lead
adjusting the fuel injector duration time. • Tester negative(-): atmospheric pressure sensor green lead
(black/white lead in wiring harness)
TESTING 4. Turn the ignition on and check the voltage. Output should measure
1. Connect the multi-meter probes to each of the sensor leads. 5. If the sensor does not meet this specification, replace the sensor.
2. Immerse the sensor's tip in water and gradually heat the water while
monitoring the changes in sensor resistance. Check if resistance matches REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
specifications:
• 32°F (0°C): 5.3-6.6 kilo ohms 1. Remove the engine cover.
• 77°F (25°C): 1.8-2.3 kilo ohms 2. Locate the sensor and remove the wiring cover.
• 135°F (75°C): 0.33-0.45 kilo ohms 3. Disconnect the appropriate wiring harness connectors and install the
test cord assembly if needed.
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION To install:
4. Remove any test cords from the wiring harness and securely
1. Disconnect the battery negative cable. reconnect the wiring harness connectors.
2. Remove the engine cover. 5. Use wire ties to bind the wiring harness in place.
3. Locate the sensor on the engine and remove it using the appropriate 6. Replace the wiring covers on the engine.
tools. 7. Replace the engine cover.

4-40 FUEL SYSTEM
r
Throttle Valve Sensor
• See Figure 75
The throttle valve sensor (TVS) is located on the top of the throttle body and
is connected to the upper end of the throttle valve shaft. As the throttle valve
shaft turns, the sensor resistance changes. the resistance change of the voltage
returning to the ECU is a measure of the throttle valve opening angle. The
throttle valve opening angle signal serves as one of the signals for determining
ignition timing and fuel injection duration time (fuel injection amount) in the
ECU.
Throttle valve
sensor (TVS)
Throttle body
05004G4A
Fig. 76 Connect the tester positive probe to the white lead of the
test cord and the negative lead to the yellow lead
2. Slowly move the throttle lever to the open position, then check to see if
the resistance changes linearly within the specifications according to the TVS
shaft turning angle:
• TVS resistance: 0-6 kilo ohms (linear change)
,..The above resistance range specification is a minimum /maximum
reference only for an uninstalled TVS. When the TVS is installed on the
throttle body, the actual resistance may be shown as a narrower range
'--------® than the above specification. If the resistance changes suddenly at any
point, the TVS must be replaced.
1. Throttle valve sensor
2. Throttle valve OT150 ANO OT200
3. Throttle stop screw
05004G40
• See Figure 77
Fig. 75 Throttle valve sensor and throttle body The following special tool must be obtained to perform the sensor check:
• 12-pin connector test cord (09930-89940)
1. Set the multimeter on the ohms scale.
TESTING 2. Connect the negative tester lead to the light green/black test cord lead
and the positive tester lead to the orange/ye/low test cord lead.
,..The throttle valve sensor (TVS) inspection/adjustment except for the ,..Do not connect the ECM side connector of the test cord.
"TVS RESISTANCE CHECK" must be performed with the battery con-
3. Slowly move the throttle lever to open, and check if resistance changes
nected. If an out-of-range condition exists in the TVS signal returned to
linearly within specification, according to the TVS shaft turning angle:
the ECU, the self-diagnosis system will be indicated by the monitor
• TVS resistance: 0-6 kilo ohms (linear change)
gauge "CHECK ENGINE" lamp flash code. However, this system is
unable to detect an incorrect TVS adjustment. ,..The above resistance range specification is a minimum /maximum
reference only for an uninstalled TVS. When the TVS is installed on the
Resistance Check throttle body, the actual resistance may be shown as a narrower range
than the above specification. If the resistance changes suddenly at any
OT115 ANO OT140
point, the TVS must be replaced.
• See Figure 76
Voltage Check
The following special tools must be obtained to perform the sensor check:
• 4-pin connector test cord (09930-89240) OT225 ANO OT200
• Multimeter • See Figures 78 and 79
1. Connect the tester positive probe to the white lead of the test cord and
the negative lead to the yellow lead. Set the tester to the ohms k scale. The following special tool must be obtained to perform the sensor check:
,..Do not connect the ECU side connector of the test cord.
1. Set the multimeter on the DC voltage scale.

FUEL SYSTEM 4-41
_.While performing these tests, the throttle valve must be in the fully
closed position. Make sure the throttle stop screw is not holding the
ECM throttle valve open.
2. Install the test cord between the TVS and the harness connector. Using
0 0 the multimeter, perform the following procedures with the ignition switch in the
ON position and the throttle stop screw turned counter-clockwise until it no
longer touches the throttle lever.
3. Connect the negative tester lead to the black test cord lead and the posi-
tive tester lead to brown/yellow test cord lead. This voltage is referred to as V1
and must be between 3.64-4.39 volts.
Yellow/Green _.The V1 voltage is not adjustable and is supplied to the TVS through
the ICU (Ignition Control Unit). If the V1 voltage is not within the above
specifications, the ICU must be replaced. Under normal conditions the
diagnostic indicator lamp will show a TVS failure mode ii the V1 voltage
is below specification.
4. Voltage V2 is a check voltage and is determined by multiplying the above
V1 voltage by 0.125. Example: 4.05 (V1) x 0.125 = 0.506 (V2).
I
(2)
TP sensor.~
05004G3A
05004G68
Fig. 77 Connect the negative tester lead to the light green/black test
cord lead and the positive tester lead to the orange/yellow test cord Fig. 78 Install the test cord between the TVS and the harness con-
lead nector
Marking
Harness Throttle sensor
Screw®
lg.
control
unit
Digital
B R
tester
+ -+- -
12V 0
Stamp No.
05004G69
Fig. 79 Connect the negative tester lead to the black test cord lead and the positive tester lead to brown/yellow test cord lead

4-42 FUEL SYSTEM
5. Connect the multimeter positive lead (red) to the light green/red test cord rotate the TVS until the voltage indicated matches that specified in the chart.
lead and the tester negative lead to the test cord black lead. This voltage is Then retighten the set screws using a thread locking compound.
referred to as V3. The difference of the voltage, V2 minus V3 must be within
+0.00--0.01 volts. OT150 ANO OT200
,..If the only difference between the V2 and V3 measurements is not The following special tools must be obtained to perform the sensor check:
specified, it will be necessary to perform the following adjustment pro- • 12-pin connector test cord (09930-89940)
cedure. 1. Loosen the locknut and unscrew the idle adjusting screw until it is fully
backed out and not touching the throttle lever.
ADJUSTMENT ,..Manually flock the throttle valve open and closed 2-3 limes by hand,
allowing the spring tension to snap the valve fully closed.
,..Proper idling and acceleration are dependent on the correct V2 volt- 2. Set the multimeter on the DC volts setting and connect the 12-pin test
age. Because of the sensitivity of V2, even the slightest amount of cord as follows: tester positive probe (red) to the test cord orange/yellow lead
movement, fastening screws too lightly or securing screws unevenly and the tester negative probe (black) to the test cord light green/black lead.
may alter this reading. Therefore, following installation or adjustment of 3. Turn the ignition switch to the ON position, then check the voltage (V2) to
the TVS, recheck V2 to ensure accuracy. see if it matches that specified for the TVS power supply (V1 ).
OT115 ANO OT140 4. If the voltage (V2) not correct, loosen the TVS set screws and gently
rotate the TVS until the voltage indicated matches that specified in the chart.
t See Figure 80 Then retighten the set screws using a thread locking compound.
The following special tools must be obtained to perform the sensor check: OT200 ANO OT225
1. Loosen the locknut and unscrew the idle adjusting screw until it is fully t See Figures 81, 82, 83 and 84
backed out and not touching the throttle lever. The following special tools must be obtained to perform the sensor check:
,..Manually flock the throttle valve open and closed 2-3 limes by hand, • 3-pin connector test cord (09930-89230)
allowing the spring tension to snap the valve fully closed. 1. Loosen the locknut and unscrew the idle adjusting screw until it is fully
backed out and not touching the throttle lever.
2. Set the multimeter on the DC volts setting and connect the 4-pin test
cord as follows: tester positive probe (red) to the test cord white lead and the ,..Manually flock the throttle valve open and closed 2-3 limes by hand,
tester negative probe (black) to the test cord yellow lead. allowing the spring tension to snap the valve fully closed.
3. Turn the ignition switch to the ON position, then check the voltage (V2) to 2. Set the multimeter on the DC volts setting and connect the 3-pin test
see if it matches that specified for the TVS power supply (V1 ). Refer to the TVS
cord as follows: tester positive probe (red) to the test cord brown/yellow lead
voltage specifications.
and the tester negative probe (black) to the test cord black lead.
4. If the voltage (V2) not correct, loosen the TVS set screws and gently
(Unit: volt)
V1 V2 ±0.01 Vt V1 V2 ±0.01 Vt
(81-Yl (W-Yl (W-Yl (81-Yl (W-Y} (W-Yl
4.75 0.70 5.01 0.74
4.76 0.70 5.02 0.74
4.77 0.70 5.03 0.74
4.78 0.71 5.04 0.74 1. 19
4.79 0.71 5.05 0.75
4.80 0.71 5.06 0.75
4.81 0.71 5.07 0.75
4.82 0.71 5.08 0.75
4.83 0.71 1.15 5.09 0.75
4.84 0.71 5.10 0.75
4.85 0.72 5.11 0.75
4.86 0.72 5.12 0.76
4.87 0.72 5.13 0.76
4.88 0.72 5.14 0.76
4.89 0.72 5.15 0.76
4.90 0.72 5.16 0.76
4.91 0.72 5.17 0.76 1.23
4.92 0.73 5.18 0.76
4.93 0.73 5.19 0.77
4.94 0.73 5.20 0.77
4.95 0.73 5.21 0.77
4.96 0.73 1.19 5.22 0.77
4.97 0.73 5.23 0.77
4.98 0.74 5.24 0.77
4.99 0.74 5.25 0.77
5.00 0.74
05004G78
Fig. 80 TVS voltage specificalions-DT115 AND DT140

FUEL SYSTEM 4-43
DT225TCL:V3 +(Vt x0.021)=V4
Example: 0.506 (VJ )
+ 0.085 (4.05 x 0.021) - - - - - - - (from example above)
0.591 (V4)
DT225TCUL: VJ+ (Vt x 0.010) = V4

Example: 0.506 (VJ)
+ 0.040 (4.05 x 0.010) - - - - - - - (from example above)
0.546 (V4)
Fig. 81 TVS adjustment formula-DT200 and DT225
TVS Voltage Chart

V1: TVS input voltage
V2: TVS output voltage at F.C.T (V1 x 0.125)
V max: TVS output voltage at 4° throttle valve angle (V1 x 0.1583)
Vi V2 V max V1 V2 V max Vi V2 V max
3.64 0.455 0.576 3.90 0.488 0.617 4.20 0.525 0.665
.65 0.456 0.578 .91 0.489 0.619 .21 0.526 0.666
.66 0.458 0.579 .92 0.490 0.621 .22 0.528 0.668
.67 0.459 0.581 .93 0.491 0.622 .23 0.529 0.670
.68 0.460 0.583 .94 0.493 0.624 .24 0.530 0.671
.69 0.461 0.584 .95 0.494 0.625 .25 0.531 0.673
3.70 0.463 0.586 .96 0.495 0.627 .26 0.532 0.674
.71 0.464 0.587 .97 0.496 0.628 .27 0.534 0.676
.72 0.465 0.589 .98 0.498 0.630 .28 0.535 0.678
.73 0.466 0.590 .99 0.499 0.632 .29 0.536 0.679
.74 0.468 0.592 4.00 0.500 0.633 4.30 0.538 0.681
.75 0.469 0.594 .01 0.501 0.635 .31 0.539 0.682
.76 0.470 0.595 .02 0.503 0.636 .32 0.540 0.684
.77 0.471 0.597 .03 0.504 0.638 .33 0.541 0.685
.78 0.473 0.598 .04 0.505 0.640 .34 0.543 0.687
.79 0.474 0.600 .05 0.506 0.641 .35 0.544 0.689
3.80 0.475 0.602 .06 0.508 0.643 .36 0.545 0.690
.81 0.476 0.603 .07 0.509 0.644 .37 0.546 0.692
.82 0.478 0.605 .08 0.510 0.646 .38 0.548 0.693
.83 0.479 0.606 .09 0.511 0.647 .39 0.549 0.695
.84 0.480 0.608 4.10 0.513 0.649
.85 0.481 0.609 . 11 0.514 0.651
.86 0.483 0.611 . 12 0.515 0.652
.87 0.484 0.613 .13 0.516 0.654
.88 0.485 0.614 .14 0.518 0.655
.89 0.486 0.616 .15 0.519 0.657
.16 0.520 0.659
. 17 0.521 0.660
.18 0.522 0.662
.19 0.524 0.663
Fig. 82 TVS voltage specifications-1988·93 DT150 and DT200

4-44 FUEL SYSTEM
(Unit: volt)
V1 V2 :1:0.01 Vt :1:0.01 V1 V2 :1:0.01 Vt :1:0.01
(Y/G - Lg/B) (ON - Lg/B) (ON - Lg/B) (Y/G - Lg/B) (ON - Lg/B} (ON - Lg/B)
4.80 0.576 0.806 5.00 0.600 0.840
4.81 0.577 0.808 5.01 0.601 0.842
4.82 0.578 0.810 5.02 0.602 0.843
4.83 0.580 0.811 5.03 0.604 0.845
4.84 0.581 0.813 5.04 0.605 0.847
4.85 0.582 0.815 5.05 0.606 0.848
4.86 0.583 0.816 5.06 0.607 0.850
4.87 0584 0.818 5.07 0.608 0.852
4.88 0.586 0.820 5.08 0.610 0.853
4.89 0.587 0.822 5.09 0.611 0.855
4.90 0.588 0.823 5.10 0.612 0.857
4.91 0.589 0.825 5.11 0.613 0.858
4.92 0.590 0.827 5.12 0.614 0.860
4.93 0.592 0.828 5.13 0.616 0.862
4.94 0.593 0.830 5.14 0.617 0.864
4.95 0.594 0.832 5.15 0.618 0.865
4.96 0.595 0.833 5.16 0.619 0.867
4.97 0.596 0.835 5.17 0.620 0.869
4.98 0.598 0.837 5.18 0.622 0.870
4.99 0.599 0.838 5.19 0.623 0.872
Fig. 83 TVS voltage specifications-DT225, 1994-99 DT200 and 1994-03 DT150
Harness Throttle valve sensor {TVS)

Screw@
lg.
control
unit
R
+
12V
Throttle body
Fig. 84 Multimeter terminal connections when adjusting the TVS -DT200 and DT225

FUEL SYSTEM 4-45
3. Turn the ignition switch to the ON position, then check the voltage (V2) to
see if it matches that specified for the TVS power supply (V1) Refer to the TVS Pulser Coil
voltage specifications.
• Since V1 voltage is not adjustable, a reading of 3.64-4.39 volts can be DESCRIPTION & OPERATION
considered correct If the voltage is not between these numbers, it may indi-
cate either a fault in the ICU or a short circuit of the TVS (although that is a The pulser coil is located under the flywheel rotor. Voltage pulses induced in
relatively uncommon occurrence). Both components therefore must be the coil by the passing reluctor bar which is attached to the flywheel rotor are
replaced and checked sequentially. signals used by the ECU to determine crankshaft angle This is the base infor-
4. If the voltage (V2) not correct, loosen the TVS set screws and gently mation from which the ECU computes the ignition spark signal in the correctly
rotate the TVS until the voltage indicated matches that specified in the chart. sequenced firing order. Fuel injection timing is then set by this ignition signal.
Then retighten the set screws using a thread locking compound.
5. With the test cord still attached, reattach the emergency switch lock plate TESTING
and start the engine, letting it warm up thoroughly.
6. When the engine is at operating temperature, adjust the throttle stop
screw. Idle speed should be as specified in the "Tune-Up Specifications" Pulser coil testing is covered in detail in the in "Ignition and Electrical".
chart
7. Securely lock the throttle stop screw with the nut. Fuel Injectors ,
The idle speed has been correctly adjusted, check the TVS output voltage.
The reading must be lower than an upper limit referred to as V max. V max is
a designated value at throttle opening of 4° and when adjusting the in-gear
idle speed, the throttle opening should be 4°at most
• See Figure 85
,..Value V max corresponds directly to (and is listed alongside) inter-
related V1 and V2. Having checked V1 and V2 according to the TVS volt- The fuel injector is an electromagnet fuel injection valve operated by the
age chart. V max is the third relevant throttle valve factor. If V2 and V injection signal supplied by the fuel injection control unit The coil used in the
max are accurate, and within specification respectively, and if in-gear injector is a high pressure resistant type The fuel injection control unit deter-
idle speed is as specified in the "Tune-Up Specifications" chart, the mines the optimal fuel injection time duration on the basis of the signal input
TVS is adjusted correctly. from the various sensors mounted on the engine.
When the injection signal is sent to the fuel injector, it energizes the coil and
8. If the output voltage exceeding V max is required to obtain the specified pulls up the needle valve, thereby opening the valve and injecting fuel. Because
idle speed, then this abnormally wide throttle valve opening may indicate fuel pressure (pressure differential between fuel line and manifold) is kept con-
mechanical, fuel delivery or other electrical system problems. Such circum- stant, the amount of fuel injected is determined by the duration time of the open.
stances should be investigated immediately.
,..If the above situation occurs when TVS input voltage (V1) and output
voltage at fully closed throttle (V2) are known to be correct, then the ICU +CD
and TVS are operating correctly and should not be checked.

2. Disconnect the wiring to the TVS mounted on the throttle body.
3. Remove the TVS from the throttle body.
To install:
,..II the TVS has been moved even the slightest amount or taken off the @
throttle body, you must perform the TVS adjustment procedure.
4. Install the TVS onto the throttle body. ®
5. Perform the TVS adjustment procedure covered in detail above.
6. Make sure to use thread locking compound on the screws.
7. Connect the TVS wiring, making sure the connections are fastened 1. Fuel
tightly. 2. Coil
8. Install the engine cover. 3. Plunger
4. Needle valve
05004G45
Gear Counter Coil (Engine Speed Sensor)
Fig. 85 Fuel injector components
TESTING
The gear counter coil is located on top of the engine at the rear of the fly-
wheel. Voltage pulses induced in the coil by the passing flywheel ring gear teeth
are signals used by the ECU to determine engine speed. This signal also serves Operational Sound
as one of the basic signals used in determining ignition timing and fuel injector
duration time (amount of fuel injected) in the ECU. DT115, DT140, DT150 AND DT200
,..The fuel injector inspection must be performed with the battery termi-
TESTING nals connected.
1. Using a mechanics stethoscope or a long bladed screwdriver, touch the
Gear counter coil testing is covered in detail in "Ignition and Electrical". injector connector.

4-46 FUEL SYSTEM
2. Crank the engine with the spark plugs removed and listen for the sound 4. Crank the engine with the spark plugs removed and check the indicated
of the injector clicking. voltage. The injector operating signal should indicate approximately 8-10 volts.
3. If there is no sound, then the injector is not operating and it will need to
be replaced. OT225 (NO LOAD)
Obtain the following special tool: Obtain the following special tool:
• Injector test cord "A" (09930-99420) • 2-Pin connector test cord "B" (09930-89270)
~It is not necessary to remove the injectors from the engine to perform
1. Turn the ignition switch to the OFF position.
this test. 2. With the injectors installed on the engine, remove all six of the 2-pin
connectors. Connect the 2-pin connector test cord between the injector being
4. Disconnect the injector wire and connect the test cord. checked and the wiring harness as illustrated.
5. Touch the stethoscope or screwdriver to the injector connector.
~When inserting the 2-pin connector test cord connector, make sure the
6. Momentarily touch the red wire of the test cord to the starter motor relay
left terminal (which is connected to the battery positive terminal) and listen for same color lead are connected together.
the sound of the injector clicking. 3. Connect a peak voltage meter (set on Positive 50V) as follows:
7. If there is no sound, then the injector is not operating and it will need to • Tester positive lead to the gray lead of the 2-pin connector test cord
be replaced. • Tester negative lead to an engine ground
4. If the tester indication is approximately 12 volts with the ignition switch
OT225 (MULTIPLE INJECTORS) in the ON position, the condition of the power system is normal. If the voltage is
1. Obtain the following special tool to perform the test: not as specified, check the following:
• 6-pin test harness (09930-89251 ). • Loose or discolored connectors
2. Disconnect the 6-pin ECU connector containing black/yellow leads and • Open circuits of the gray lead
install the test harness. • Disconnected connector or lead, failure of the main relay etc.
3. Turn ignition switch to the ON position and touch one black/yellow lead 5. Check the other five injectors in the same manner.
to ground. Listen for the sound of the injector clicking from 3 injectors each
time the black/yellow lead is touched to ground. This means the injector is OT225 (PEAK VOLT CHECK)
operating properly. Repeat the test for the other black/yellow lead. 1. Peform the first and second procedures of the previous power supply
~a injectors are controlled by each black/yellow ECU lead. check (no load).
2. Connect the peak voltage meter (set on POSITIVE 50V) as follows:
~Another way to tell if the injector is to place your finger on the injec- • Tester positive lead to the black/yellow lead of the 2-pin test connector
tor itself and feel for the clicking motion inside the injector. cord.
• Tester negative lead to an engine ground.
OT225 (INOIVIOUAL INJECTORS) 3. If the tester indication is approximately 12 volts with the ignition switch
in the ON position, the operating condition is normal.
If injector operation is not heard or felt, you will need to obtain the following 4. Check for voltage with the engine being cranked. If more than approxi-
special tool to perform the check: mately 20 volts is indicated during engine cranking, the injector control signal
• 2-pin connector test cord (09930-89260) is normal. If the voltage being indicated is less than approximately 20 volts,
1. Disconnect the fuel injector's 2-pin connector and connect the 2-pin check for connector looseness or the disconnection of the black/yellow lead.
connector test cord to the injector. Connect the black test lead first tot he bat- 5. Check the other five injectors in the same manner. If less than 20 volts is
tery negative terminal. Next, touch the positive test lead to the battery positive indicated at all six injectors, perform an ECU power supply and ground checks.
terminal and then remove. Repeat this on and off contact action several times
and check for the sound of the injector operating If the clicks are heard as this Injector Resistance
on and off contact action is made, the injector is operating normally. If the
clicks are not heard, there is a failure in the injector and it will need to be 1. Disconnect the injector connector.
replaced. 2. Using a multimeter, measure the resistance between the injector termi-
nals. Resistance should measure approximately 12.2-15.1 ohms at 68°(20°C).
**WARNING 3. If the measured resistance does not meet specifications, replace the
injector.
Never allempt to disconnect or remove the fuel hose during this 4. Reconnect the injector connector.
test, or fuel under high pressure will spray out, causing an
extremely hazardous condition.
Fuel Pressure Regulator
Power Supply
• See Figure 86
OT115, OT140, OT150 ANO OT200 (NO LOAD)
The fuel pressure regulator is used in the system for the purpose of main-
1. Obtain the following special tool: taining the fuel pressure relative to the manifold at a constant level. The regu-
• Injector test cord "B" (09930-99430) lator diaphragm chamber is connected with the surge tank to keep the
2. Connect the test cord as shown in the illustration to the injector wiring pressure balanced, while the fuel pressure is adjusted by the regulator to be
harness. constantly higher than the surge tank pressure by approximately 36.3 psi
3. Connect the test meter positive probe to the test cord red lead and the (2.55 kg-cm), the diaphragm is pushed up, allowing fuel to flow through the
negative lead to ground. return pipe to the vapor separator. When fuel returns to the vapor separator,
4. Turn the ignition to the ON position and check for voltage. The injector the excess fuel pressure is relieved, thus keeping the pressure adjusted to a
voltage should read approximately .11 volts. constant level.
OT115, OT140, OT150 ANO OT200TC (PEAK VOLT CHECK) TESTING
1. Obtain the following special tools:
• Injector test cord "B" (09930-99430) 1. Obtain the following special tools:
• Peak reading voltage meter • Hand vacuum/air pump
2. Set the peak volt meter to NEG 50. • Air Pressure gauge Attachment (09940-44130)
3. Connect the test cord positive probe(+) to the test cord black lead and 2. Remove the fuel pressure regulator from the engine.
the negative test probe to the starter relay left terminal (connected to the battery 3. Connect the attachment, gauge and pump to the fuel pressure regulator
positive terminal). as shown in the illustration.

FUEL SYSTEM 4-47
VAL VE CLOSED
4. Using the pump, pump air into the regulator until the air is released
[below 2.55 kg/cm' through the outlet.
(36.3 psi)! 5. As air is released from the regulator, check the gauge to see if the pres-
sure meets specification:
• 34.1-38.4 psi (2.4-2.7 kg/cm2)

2. Turn the ignition switch to the OFF position and then disconnect the bat-
tery cables from the battery terminals.
3. Loosen the fasteners securing the oil tank to the engine and move the
oil tank to the outside.
4. Place a rag over the banjo bolt fitting on the fuel line and then slowly
loosen the bolt relieving the fuel pressure in the fuel line.
VALVE OPENED 5. Wipe up any spilled fuel immediately.
[over 2.55 kg/cm' 6. Pinch the fuel line with your fingers to make sure all the pressure has
(36.3 psi)! been relieved.
To install:
7. Reinstall all the hoses on the regulator.
8. Tighten the banjo bolt to 29 ft. lbs. (40 Nm)
From 9. Install the oil tank back in its place on the side of the engine and tighten
¢>delivery
or-=~ pipe
the fasteners.
10. Reconnect the battery cables to the battery terminals.
11. Install the engine cover.
High Pressure Fuel Pump

• See Figure 87
ii
Return
This an "In-line" type pump which has all the pump mechanisms located
(To vapor separator)
within the fuel line.
05004G46
The pump unit consists of the housing, rotor and rollers. As the rotor rotates,
Fig. 86 Typical fuel pressure regulating valve with the valve open the centrifugal force pushes the rollers outward so that they revolve along the
and closed inside housing wall. During rotation, the space formed by these three parts:
1. Pump housing 9. Plate

2. Internal ground 10. Roller
3. Magneto 11. Relief valve
4. Armature 12. Motor housing
5. Spacer 13. Bearing holder
6. Cushion 14. Residual pressure check valve
7. Rotor 15. Nut
8. Suction filter
05004GSO
Fig. 87 A typical in-line high pressure fuel pump

4-48 FUEL SYSTEM
rotor, rollers and housing will alternate, first larger, then smaller. This space The following special tool must be obtained to perform the fuel pump power
variation is utilized for fuel suction and feed pressure. supply check:
Residual pressure check valve A check valve is provided to keep resid- • 2-pin connector test cord (09930-89210)
ual pressure in the fuel line after the engine has been shut off. 2. Connect the multimeter positive probe to the pink test cord lead and the
Relief valve A relief valve is provided to prevent overpressure in the high- multimeter negative probe to ground.
pressure side of the fuel line. 3. With the tester set on DC volts, fuel pump voltage should measure
Suction filter To prevent fuel tank or sediment from entering the high-pres- approximately 12 volts (battery voltage).
sure fuel pump, there is a fine mesh suction filter at the pump inlet. To perform the fuel pump 2 second operating signal check, connect the mul-
timeter positive probe to the pink test cord lead and the tester negative probe to
TESTING the black test cord lead.
4. Turn the ignition switch to the ON position and measure the voltage. Volt-
age should measure approximately 12 volts (battery voltage) for 2 seconds only.
Fuel Pressure
,..Excepting the first 2 second after the ignition switch is turned ON, the
1. Obtain the following special tools: tester must indicate 0 voltage. If not, the pump has failed and needs to
• Fuel pressure gauge be replaced.
• 3-way joint and hose
• Fuel pressure hose 5. To perform the fuel pump operating signal check, crank the engine with
2. After following the procedures for relieving the fuel pressure in the fuel the spark plugs removed and check the voltage.
lines, connect the joint & hose and gauge as shown in the illustration. 6. The fuel pump operating signal should be approximately 9-10 volts dur-
3. Use a 50:1 fuel/oil mixture for pressure testing. ing cranking.
4. Turn the ignition switch to the ON and OFF positions several times to
activate the high pressure fuel pump and fill the fuel hoses with fuel. Additional Inputs
5. Inspect all the fuel line connections for leaks and correct any problems
before proceeding with the tests. Additional inputs include:
6. Check if the fuel pressure indicated on the gauge is within specification • Neutral switch, which informs the ECU of the shifter position
at both idle speed and cranking speed. • The key switch, which tells the computer when to begin the program
• The thermoswitich (overheat) for overheat information
,..To prevent damage to the starter motor, do not crank the engine for • Oil level sensor information
more than 20 seconds at a lime. • The shift cut switch
7. Fuel pressure should be approximately 36.3 psi (2.55 kg/cm2). • The lanyard switch
8. If the fuel pressure is not within specification, recheck all the fuel line • The gray over-rev loop lead
connections for leaks. If there are no leaks, replace the fuel pump assembly. Although not strictly inputs, battery power and ground are essential for com-
puter operation. This computer also monitors battery voltage. As battery voltage
Residual Fuel Pressure drops, the injectors would open more slowly, decreasing fuel delivery volume.
Therefore, when the computer detects low battery voltage, it makes adjustments
1. After performing the fuel pressure check, shut off the engine and wait 5 to injector "time on" to keep fuel delivery volume correct.
minutes.
2. Check the fuel pressure indicated on the fuel gauge. Pressure should be
28.4 psi (2.0 kg/cm2) or more. Self Diagnostic System
Power Supply DESCRIPTION & OPERATION
,..The fuel pump inspection must be performed with the battery con-
nected to the terminals. • See Figures 88, 89, 90, 91 and 92
1. Turn the ignition switch to the ON position and listen for the sound The ECU is provided with a self diagnostic function. When a failure occurs in
of the fuel pump operating. It should sound for approximately 2 seconds the system and no input signal is sent from the sensors, the ECU stores this
only. information and activates the "Check Engine" LED on the monitor gauge. The
"TEMP" lamp "CHECK ENGINE" lamp
"OIL" lamp
"REV LIMIT"
"RED OIL LEVEL" lamp
lamp
05004G76
Fig. 88 Typical Suzuki monitor gauge

FUEL SYSTEM 4-49
location of the problem can be determined by the flashing light sequence of the FAIL SAFE EMERGENCY BACKUP
monitor LED as shown in the illustration.
When any of the ECU system fails, the self-diagnostic system will indicate
DIAGNOSIS PROCEDURE the failure location by means of the indicator lamp's flashing code. In the event
of such a failure condition, another system, called a back-up system, will come
1. Turn on the ignition switch. into operation. This system provides alternative signals to compensate for the
2. Check the "check engine" LED flashing sequence and count the number ECU or sensor failure so that the engine will not stop operating but will be con-
of flashes. From the observed flashes, determine which one of the following tinuously operable. Because of this provision, emergency, return-to-port opera-
codes it corresponds to. tion will be possible, but in a much reduced performance mode.
Failure location Code Flashing mode Check point Priority

Signal system
Constant · Replace the unit
within unit 1
ON ·Wiring harness
itself
2
Throttle sensor ·Throttle sensor
2- 1 2
signal system ·Wiring harness
Cylinder wall 4 ·Cylinder wall

temperature temperature
1- 4 sensor
3
sensor signal
system ·Wiring harness
Air temperature 2 3 ·Air temperature
sensor signal 2-3 sensor 4
Atmospheric 3 4 ·Atmospheric
pressure sensor 3-4 pressure sensor 5
05004G72
Fig. 89 Sell-diagnostic system chart -DT225
PRIORITY FAILED ITEM CODE LAMP FLASHING PATTERN FAIL-SAFE SYSTEM

ACTIVATING
1 CKP sensor [NOTE 11 42 onrn NO (NOTE2]

off
2 Engine speed sensor 24 on

off
_IlfLJLJlJLJl_ NO (NOTE2]
3 TP sensor 21 on_filLJl YES

off
4 Cylinder temp. sensor (STBD) 14 on

off
_fL_JlJlJfil YES
15 on _fL_fUlSUlJl_
5 Cylinder temp. sensor (PORT) off YES
on _IlJL_fLJlJ1_
6 IAT sensor 23 off YES
on
7 MAP sensor 34 off YES
8 Neutral switch 33 on
off
-1lIULJlJlJL NO
05004G73
Fig. 90 Sell-diagnostic system chart -DT150 AND 1988-93 DT200

4-50 FUEL SYSTEM
Failure location Code Flashing mode Check point Priority

Signal system
Constant ·Replace the unit
within unit
ON ·Wiring harness
itself
2
Throttle sensor ·Throttle sensor
2-1 2
Cylinder wall 4 ·Cylinder wall

temperature temperature
1-4 sensor
3
sensor signal
Air temperature 2 3 ·Air temperature
sensor signal 2-3 sensor 4
Atmospheric 3 4 ·Atmospheric
pressure sensor 3-4 pressure sensor 5
05004G74
Fig. 91 Self-diagnostic system chart-1994-99 DT2DD
"CHECK ENGINE" lamp

Malfunction Range Code *Priority
flashing pattern
Constant "ON"
--
::~----~~]
**More than
Battary 9.9 vats (0T11 SSTC)i CON. 1
10.2 vats (OT140TC)
Throttle valve sensor

0.6 to
4. 7 volts
2-1
ON -----JUJycl•
·~ 2
OFF ----
Cylinder wall 0.1 to 1 cycle
O~F·-----truum -~
1-4 3
temperature sensor 4. 7 volts
0 -----
Air temperature 0.5 to 1 cycle
sensor 4. 7 volts
2-3
ON -----JiJlJirul
OFF-----· ----. ·~ 4
Atmospheric pressure
sensor
2.2 to
4.4 volts
3-4 ONH--~ -~ 5
OFF-----
05004G75
Fig. 92 Self-diagnostic system chart-DT115 and DT140

UNDERSTANDING AND DESCRIPTION & OPERATION 5-28
TROUBLESHOOTING ELECTRICAL TESTING 5-28
SYSTEMS 5·2 REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 5-34
BASIC ELECTRICAL THEORY 5-2 RECTIFIER 5-37
HOW ELECTRICITY WORKS: THE DESCRIPTION & OPERATION 5-37
WATER ANALOGY 5-2 TESTING 5-37
OHM'S LAW 5-2 REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 5-38
ELECTRICAL COMPONENTS 5-2 REGULATOR 5-38
POWER SOURCE 5-2 DESCRIPTION & OPERATION 5-38
GROUND 5-3 TESTING 5-38
PROTECTIVE DEVICES 5-3 REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 5-38
SWITCHES & RELAYS 5-3 ELECTRONIC IGNITION 5-38
LOAD 5-3 DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION 5-38
WIRING & HARNESSES 5-4 WARNING SYSTEMS 5-38
CONNECTORS 5-4 OVER REVOLUTION 5-38
TEST EQUIPMENT 5-4 OIL LEVEL 5-38
JUMPER WIRES 5-4 OIL FLOW 5-38
TEST LIGHTS 5-5 OVERHEAT 5-38
MULTIMETERS 5-5 BATTERY VOLTAGE 5-39
TROUBLESHOOTING THE ELECTRICAL CHARGING CIRCUIT 5-39
SYSTEM 5-6 DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION 5-39
TESTING 5-6 SINGLE PHASE CHARGING
VOLTAGE 5-6 SYSTEM 5-39
VOLTAGE DROP 5-6 THREE-PHASE CHARGING
RESISTANCE 5-6 SYSTEM 5-39
OPEN CIRCUITS 5-7 PRECAUTIONS 5-39
SHORT CIRCUITS 5-7 TROUBLESHOOTING THE CHARGING
WIRE AND CONNECTOR REPAIR 5-7 SYSTEM 5-40
ELECTRICAL SYSTEM OVERCHARGING 5-40
PRECAUTIONS 5-7 UNDERCHARGING 5-40
BREAKER POINTS IGNITION ALTERNATOR (STATOR) 5-40
(MAGNETO IGNITION) 5-7 TESTING 5-40
SYSTEM TESTING 5-8 BATTERY 5-41
BREAKER POINTS 5-8 MARINE BATTERIES 5-41
POINT GAP ADJUSTMENT 5-8 BATTERY CONSTRUCTION 5-41
TESTING 5-9 BATTERY RATINGS 5-42
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 5-9 BATTERY LOCATION 5-42
CONDENSER 5-10 BATTERY SERVICE 5-42
DESCRIPTION & OPERATION 5-10 BATTERY TERMINALS 5-44
TESTING 5-10 SAFETY PRECAUTIONS 5-44
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 5-10 BATTERY CHARGERS 5-44
IGNITION COIL 5-10 BATTERY CABLES 5-45
DESCRIPTION & OPERATION 5-10 BATTERY STORAGE 5-45
TESTING 5-11 STARTING CIRCUIT 5-45
CAPACITOR DISCHARGE IGNITION TROUBLESHOOTING THE STARTING
(CDI) SYSTEM 5·11 SYSTEM 5-46
DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION 5-11 STARTER MOTOR 5-46
SINGLE-CYLINDER IGNITION 5-11 DESCRIPTION & OPERATION 5-46
SUZUKI PEI IGNITION 5-12 TESTING 5-48
SYSTEM TESTING 5-14 REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 5-48
PROCEDURE 5-14 OVERHAUL 5-49
PULSAR/CHARGING/GEAR COUNTER STARTER MOTOR RELAY SWITCH 5-50
COILS 5-14 DESCRIPTION & OPERATION 5-50
DESCRIPTION & OPERATION 5-14 TESTING 5-51
TESTING 5-15 REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 5-51
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 5-20 IGNITION AND ELECTRICAL WIRING
IGNITION COILS 5-25 DIAGRAMS 5-52
DESCRIPTION & OPERATION 5-25
TESTING 5-25
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 5-26
CDI UNIT 5-28

5-2 IGNITION AND ELECTRICAL SYSTEMS
UNDERSTANDING AND TROUBLESHOOTING ELECTRICAL SYSTEMS
The actual flow of electricity depends not only on voltage and amperage, but
Basic Electrical Theory also on the resistance of the circuit. The higher the resistance, the higher the
• See Figure 1 force necessary to push the current through the circuit. The standard unit for
measuring resistance is an ohm (Q). Resistance in a circuit varies depending
For any 12 volt, negative ground, electrical system to operate, the electricity on the amount and type of components used in the circuit. The main factors
must travel in a complete circuit. This simply means that current (power) from which determine resistance are:
the positive terminal(+) of the battery must eventually return to the negative ter- • Material-some materials have more resistance than others. Those with
minal(-) of the battery. Along the way, this current will travel through wires, high resistance are said to be insulators. Rubber materials (or rubber-like plas-
fuses, switches and components. If, for any reason, the flow of current through tics) are some of the most common insulators used, as they have a very high
the circuit is interrupted, the component led by that circuit will cease to function resistance to electricity. Very low resistance materials are said to be conductors.
properly. Copper wire is among the best conductors. Silver is actually a superior conduc-
Perhaps the easiest way to visualize a circuit is to think of connecting a light tor to copper and is used in some relay contacts, but its high cost prohibits its
bulb (with two wires attached to it) to the battery-one wire attached to the neg- use as common wiring. Most marine wiring is made of copper.
ative(-) terminal of the battery and the other wire to the positive(+) terminal. • Size-the larger the wire size being used, the less resistance the wire will
With the two wires touching the battery terminals, the circuit would be complete have. This is why components which use large amounts of electricity usually
and the light bulb would illuminate. Electricity would follow a path from the bat- have large wires supplying current to them.
tery to the bulb and back to the battery. It's easy to see that with longer wires on • Length-for a given thickness of wire, the longer the wire, the greater the
our light bulb, it could be mounted anywhere. Further, one wire could be fitted resistance. The shorter the wire, the less the resistance. When determining the
with a switch so that the light could be turned on and off. proper wire for a circuit, both size and length must be considered to design a
The normal marine circuit differs from this simple example in two ways. circuit that can handle the current needs of the component.
First, instead of having a return wire from each bulb to the battery, the current • Temperature-with many materials, the higher the temperature, the greater
travels through a single ground wire which handles all the grounds for a spe- the resistance (positive temperature coefficient). Some materials exhibit the
cific circuit. Secondly, most marine circuits contain multiple components which opposite trait of lower resistance with higher temperatures (negative temperature
receive power from a single circuit. This lessens the amount of wire needed to coefficient). These principles are used in many of the sensors on the engine.
power components.
OHM'S LAW
PROTECTION LOAD There is a direct relationship between current, voltage and resistance. The
DEVICE (BULB) relationship between current, voltage and resistance can be summed up by a
POWER SOURCE (FUSE)
(BATTERY) statement known as Ohm's law.
• Voltage (E) is equal to amperage (I) times resistance (R): E=I x R
• Other forms of the formula are R=E/I and l=E/R
CONTROL DEVICE
(SWITCH OPEN)
In each of these formulas, Eis the voltage in volts, I is the current in amps
and Ris the resistance in ohms. The basic point to remember is that as the
RETURN RETURN
resistance of a circuit goes up, the amount of current that flows in the circuit
CONDUCTOR CONDUCTOR will go down, if voltage remains the same.
GROUND GROUND
The amount of work that the electricity can perform is expressed as power.
TCCS2004
The unit of power is the watt (w). The relationship between power, voltage and
Fig. 1 This example illustrates a simple circuit. When the switch is current is expressed as:
closed, power from the positive (+) battery terminal flows through • Power (W) is equal to amperage (I) times voltage (E): W=I x E
the fuse and the switch, and then to the light bulb. The light illumi· This is only true for direct current (DC) circuits; The alternating current for-
nates and the circuit is completed through the ground wire back to mula is a tad dillerent, but since the electrical circuits in most vessels are DC
type, we need not get into AC circuit theory.
the negative (-) battery terminal.
Electrical Components
HOW ELECTRICITY WORKS: THE WATER ANALOGY
POWER SOURCE
Electricity is the flow of electrons-the sub-atomic particles that constitute
the outer shell of an atom. Electrons spin in an orbit around the center core of Power is supplied to the vessel by two devices: The battery and the alterna-
an atom. The center core is comprised of protons (positive charge) and neu- tor. The battery supplies electrical power during starting or during periods when
trons (neutral charge). Electrons have a negative charge and balance out the the current demand of the vessel's electrical system exceeds the output capacity
positive charge of the protons. When an outside force causes the number of of the alternator. The alternator supplies electrical current when the engine is
electrons to unbalance the charge of the protons, the electrons will split oil the running. The alternator does not just supply the current needs of the vessel, but
atom and look for another atom to balance out. II this imbalance is kept up, it recharges the battery.
electrons will continue to move and an electrical flow will exist.
Many people have been taught electrical theory using an analogy with water. The Battery
In a comparison with water flowing through a pipe, the electrons would be the
water and the wire is the pipe. In most modern vessels, the battery is a lead/acid electrochemical device
The flow of electricity can be measured much like the flow of water through a consisting of six 2 volt subsections (cells) connected in series, so that the unit
pipe. The unit of measurement used is amperes, frequently abbreviated as amps is capable of producing approximately 12 volts of electrical pressure. Each sub-
(a). You can compare amperage to the volume of water flowing through a pipe. section consists of a series of positive and negative plates held a short distance
When connected to a circuit, an ammeter will measure the actual amount of cur- apart in a solution of sulfuric acid and water.
rent flowing through the circuit. When relatively few electrons flow through a The two types of plates are of dissimilar metals. This sets up a chemical
circuit, the amperage is low. When many electrons flow, the amperage is high. reaction, and it is this reaction which produces current flow from the battery
Water pressure is measured in units such as pounds per square inch (psi); when its positive and negative terminals are connected to an electrical load. The
The electrical pressure is measured in units called volts (v). When a voltmeter is power removed from the battery is replaced by the alternator, restoring the bat-
connected to a circuit, it is measuring the electrical pressure. tery to its original chemical state.

IGNITION AND ELECTRICAL SYSTEMS 5-3
Charging System electrical path, it's the first place to look if nothing on the vessel works, yet the
battery seems to be charged and is properly connected.
When the imbedded magnets in the flywheel rotate past the charging coils or
A!C lighting coil(s), it creates alternating current. This current is sent to the rec- **CAUTION
tifier or combination rectifier/voltage regulator, where it is then converted to DIC
and then supplied to the battery or electrical accessories through a fused link. Always replace fuses, circuit breakers and fusible links with identi-
A malfunction in the battery charging system will result in the battery being cally rated components. Under no circumstances should a compo-
undercharged. nent of higher or lower amperage rating be substituted.
GROUND SWITCHES & RELAYS

Two types of grounds are used in marine electric circuits. Direct ground • See Figure 3
components are grounded to the electrically conductive metal through their
mounting points. All other components use some sort of ground wire which Switches are used in electrical circuits to control the passage of current. The
leads back to the battery. The electrical current runs through the ground wire most common use is to open and close circuits between the battery and the var-
and returns to the battery through the ground(-) cable; if you look, you'll see ious electric devices in the system. Switches are rated according to the amount
that the battery ground cable connects between the battery and a heavy gauge of amperage they can handle. If a sufficient amperage rated switch is not used in
ground wire. a circuit, the switch could overload and cause damage.
Some electrical components which require a large amount of current to oper-
,..It should be noted that a good percentage of electrical problems can ate use a special switch called a relay. Since these circuits carry a large amount
be traced to bad grounds. of current, the thickness of the wire in the circuit is also greater. If this large wire
were connected from the load to the control switch, the switch would have to
PROTECTIVE DEVICES carry the high amperage load and the space needed for wiring in the vessel
would be twice as big to accommodate the increased size of the wiring harness.
• See Figure 2 To prevent these problems, a relay is used.
Relays are composed of a coil and a set of contacts. When the coil has a cur-
It is possible for large surges of current to pass through the electrical system
rent passed though it, a magnetic field is formed and this field causes the con-
of your vessel. If this surge of current were to reach the load in the circuit, the
surge could burn it out or severely damage it. It can also overload the wiring, tacts to move together, completing the circuit. Most relays are normally open,
preventing current from passing through the circuit, but they can take any elec-
causing the harness to get hot and melt the insulation. To prevent this, fuses,
trical form depending on the job they are intended to do. Relays can be consid-
circuit breakers and/or fusible links are connected into the supply wires of the
electrical system. These items are nothing more than a built-in weak spot in the ered "remote control switches." They allow a smaller current to operate devices
system. When an abnormal amount of current flows through the system, these that require higher amperages. When a small current operates the coil, a larger
protective devices work as follows to protect the circuit: current is allowed to pass by the contacts. Some common circuits which may
use relays are horns, lights, starter, electric fuel pumps and other high draw cir-
• Fuse-when an excessive electrical current passes through a fuse, the
fuse "blows" (the conductor melts) and opens the circuit, preventing the pas- cuits.
sage of current.
• Circuit Breaker-a circuit breaker is basically a self-repairing fuse. It will
open the circuit in the same fashion as a fuse, but when the surge subsides, the
circuit breaker can be reset and does not need replacement.
• Fusible Link-a fusible link (fuse link or main link) is a short length of
special, high temperature insulated wire that acts as a fuse. When an excessive
electrical current passes through a fusible link, the thin gauge wire inside the
link melts, creating an intentional open to protect the circuit. To repair the cir- RELAY
i. «tf------1---sWITCH
cuit, the link must be replaced. Some newer type fusible links are housed in
plug-in modules, which are simply replaced like a fuse, while older type fusible
links must be cut and spliced if they melt. Since this link is very early in the
TCCA5G02
Fig. 3 Relays are composed of a coil and a switch. These two com-
ponents are linked together so that when one operates, the other
operates at the same lime. The large wires in the circuit are con-
nected from the battery to one side of the relay switch (B+) and from
the opposite side of the relay switch to the load (component).
Smaller wires are connected from the relay coil to the control switch
for the circuit and from the opposite side of the relay coil to ground
LOAD
Every electrical circuit must include a "load" (something to use the electricity
coming from the source). Without this load, the battery would attempt to deliver
its entire power supply from one pole to another. This is called a "short circuit".
All this electricity would take a short cut to ground and cause a great amount of
05005P64 damage to other components in the circuit by developing a tremendous amount
Fig. 2 Fuses protect the vessel's electrical system from abnormally of heat. This condition could develop sufficient heat to melt the insulation on all
high amounts of current flow the surrounding wires and reduce a multiple wire cable to a lump of plastic and
copper.

WIRING & HARNESSES connector is exposed to the elements. Terminals are protected against moisture
and dirt by sealing rings which provide a weather tight seal. All repairs require
the use of a special terminal and the tool required to service it. Unlike standard
The average vessel contains miles of wiring, with hundreds of individual
blade type terminals, these weatherproof terminals cannot be straightened once
connections. To protect the many wires from damage and to keep them from
they are bent. Make certain that the connectors are properly seated and all of the
becoming a confusing tangle, they are organized into bundles, enclosed in plas-
sealing rings are in place when connecting leads.
tic or taped together and called wiring harnesses. Different harnesses serve dif-
• Molded-these connectors require complete replacement of the connector if
ferent parts of the vessel. Individual wires are color coded to help trace them
found to be defective. This means splicing a new connector assembly into the har-
through a harness where sections are hidden from view.
Marine wiring or circuit conductors can be either single strand wire, multi- ness. All splices should be soldered to insure proper contact. Use care when prob-
ing the connections or replacing terminals in them, as it is possible to create a
strand wire or printed circuitry. Single strand wire has a solid metal core and is
usually used inside such components as alternators, motors, relays and other short circuit between opposite terminals. If this happens to the wrong terminal pair,
it is possible to damage certain components. Always use jumper wires between
devices. Multi-strand wire has a core made of many small strands of wire
twisted together into a single conductor. Most of the wiring in a marine electri- connectors for circuit checking and NEVER probe through weatherproof seals.
• Hard Shell-unlike molded connectors, the terminal contacts in hard-
cal system is made up of multi-strand wire, either as a single conductor or
grouped together in a harness. All wiring is color coded on the insulator, either shell connectors can be replaced. Replacement usually involves the use of a
special terminal removal tool that depresses the locking tangs (barbs) on the
as a solid color or as a colored wire with an identification stripe. A printed cir-
cuit is a thin film of copper or other conductor that is printed on an insulator connector terminal and allows the connector to be removed from the rear of the
shell. The connector shell should be replaced if it shows any evidence of burn-
backing. Occasionally, a printed circuit is sandwiched between two sheets of
plastic for more protection and flexibility. A complete printed circuit, consisting ing, melting, cracks, or breaks. Replace individual terminals that are burnt, cor-
of conductors, insulating material and connectors is called a printed circuit roded, distorted or loose.
board. Printed circuitry is used in place of individual wires or harnesses in
places where space is limited, such as behind instrument panels. Test Equipment
Since marine electrical systems are very sensitive to changes in resistance,
the selection of properly sized wires is critical when systems are repaired. A Pinpointing the exact cause of trouble in an electrical circuit is most times
loose or corroded connection or a replacement wire that is too small for the cir- accomplished by the use of special test equipment. The following sections
cuit will add extra resistance and an additional voltage drop to the circuit. describe different types of commonly used test equipment and briefly explain
The wire gauge number is an expression of the cross-section area of the how to use them in diagnosis. In addition to the information covered below the
conductor. Vessels from countries that use the metric system will typically tool manufacturer's instruction manual (provided with most tools) should b~
describe the wire size as its cross-sectional area in square millimeters. In this read and clearly understood before attempting any test procedures.
method, the larger the wire, the greater the number. Another common system for
expressing wire size is the American Wire Gauge (AWG) system. As gauge num- JUMPER WIRES
ber increases, area decreases and the wire becomes smaller. An 18 gauge wire
1s smaller than a 4 gauge wire. A wire with a higher gauge number will carry • See Figure 7
less current than a wire with a lower gauge number. Gauge wire size refers to
the size of the strands of the conductor, not the size of the complete wire with **CAUTION
insulator. It is possible, therefore, to have two wires of the same gauge with dif-
ferent diameters because one may have thicker insulation than the other. Never use jumper wires made from a thinner gauge wire than the
It is essential to understand how a circuit works before trying to figure out circuit being tested. If the jumper wire is of too small a gauge, it
why it doesn't. An electrical schematic shows the electrical current paths when a may overheat and possibly melt. Never use jumpers to bypass high
circuit is operating properly. Schematics break the entire electrical system down resistance loads in a circuit. Bypassing resistances, in effect, cre-
in.to individual circuits. In a schematic, usually no attempt is made to represent ates a short circuit. This may, in turn, cause damage and lire.
w1r1ng and components as they physically appear on the vessel; switches and Jumper wires should only be used to bypass lengths of wire or to
other components are shown as simply as possible. Face views of harness con- simulate switches.
nectors show the cavity or terminal locations in all multi-pin connectors to help
locate test points. Jumper wires are simple, yet extremely valuable, pieces of test equipment.
They are basically test wires which are used to bypass sections of a circuit.
CONNECTORS Although jumper wires can be purchased, they are usually fabricated from
lengths of standard marine wire and whatever type of connector (alligator clip,
• See Figures 4, 5 and 6 spade connector or pin connector) that is required for the particular application
being tested. In cramped, hard-to-reach areas, it is advisable to have insulated
Three types of connectors are commonly used in marine applications- boots over the jumper wire terminals in order to prevent accidental grounding. It
weatherproof, molded and hard shell. is also advisable to include a standard marine fuse in any jumper wire. This is
• Weatherproof-these connectors are most commonly used where the commonly referred to as a "fused jumper". By inserting an in-line fuse holder
TCCA6P04
TCCA6P03 Fig. 5 Weatherproof connectors are most 04975P62
Fig. 4 Hard shell (left) and weatherproof commonly used in the engine compart- Fig. 6 The seals on weatherproof connec-
(right) connectors have replaceable termi- ment or where the connector is exposed to tors must be kept in good condition to pre-
nals the elements vent the terminals from corroding

12 volt test light, connect the ground clip to a good ground and probe wherever
necessary with the pick. The test light will illuminate when voltage is detected.
This does not necessarily mean that 12 volts (or any particular amount of volt-
age) is present; it only means that some voltage is present. It is advisable before
using the test light to touch its ground clip and probe across the battery posts
or terminals to make sure the light is operating properly.
**WARNING
Do not use a test light to probe electronic ignition, spark plug or
coil wires. Never use a pick-type test light to probe wiring on elec-
tronically controlled systems unless specifically instructed to do so.
Any wire insulation that is pierced by the test light probe should be
taped and sealed with silicone alter testing.
Like the jumper wire, the 12 volt test light is used to isolate opens in circuits.
But, whereas the jumper wire is used to bypass the open to operate the load, the
12 volt test light is used to locate the presence of voltage in a circuit. If the test
light illuminates, there is power up to that point in the circuit; if the test light
05005P75 does not illuminate, there is an open circuit (no power). Move the test light in
Fig. 7 Jumper wires are simple, yet extremely valuable, pieces of successive steps back toward the power source until the light in the handle illu-
minates. The open is between the probe and a point which was previously
test equipment
probed.
The self-powered test light is similar in design to the 12 volt test light, but
between a set of test leads, a fused jumper wire can be used for bypassing open contains a 1.5 volt penlight battery in the handle. It is most often used in place
circuits. Use a 5 amp fuse to provide protection against voltage spikes. of a multimeter to check for open or short circuits when power is isolated from
Jumper wires are used primarily to locate open electrical circuits, on either the circuit (continuity test).
the ground(-) side of the circuit or on the power(+) side. If an electrical com- The battery in a self-powered test light does not provide much current. A
ponent fails to operate, connect the jumper wire between the component and a weak battery may not provide enough power to illuminate the test light even
good ground. If the component operates only with the jumper installed, the when a complete circuit is made (especially if there is high resistance in the cir-
ground circuit is open. If the ground circuit is good, but the component does cuit). Always make sure that the test battery is strong. To check the battery,
not operate, the circuit between the power feed and component may be open. By briefly touch the ground clip to the probe; if the light glows brightly, the battery
moving the jumper wire successively back from the component toward the is strong enough for testing.
power source, you can isolate the area of the circuit where the open is localed.
,.A self-powered test light should not be used on any electronically
When the component stops functioning, or the power is cut off, the open is in
controlled system or component. The small amount of electricity trans-
the segment of wire between the jumper and the point previously tested.
mitted by the test light is enough to damage many electronic marine
You can sometimes connect the jumper wire directly from the battery to the
components.
"hot" terminal of the component, but first make sure the component uses 12
volts in operation. Some electrical components, such as fuel injectors or sen-
sors, are designed to operate on about 4 to 5 volts, and running 12 volts MULTI METERS
directly to these components wi II cause damage.
t See Figure 9
TEST LIGHTS Multimeters are an extremely useful tool for troubleshooting electrical prob-
lems. They can be purchased in either analog or digital form and have a price
t See Figure 8 range to suit any budget. A multimeter is a voltmeter, ammeter and ohmmeter
The test light is used to check circuits and components while electrical cur- (along with other features) combined into one instrument. It is often used when
rent is flowing through them. It is used for voltage and ground tests. To use a testing solid state circuits because of its high input impedance (usually 10
05005P70 005005P54
Fig. 8 A 12 volt test light is used to detect the presence of voltage in Fig. 9 Multimeters are essential for diagnosing faulty wires,
a circuit switches and other electrical components

megohms or more). A brief description of the multimeter main test functions tematic checks will often turn up most causes on the first inspection, without
follows: wasting time checking components that have little or no relationship to the
• Voltmeter-the voltmeter is used to measure voltage at any point in a cir- problem.
cuit, or to measure the voltage drop across any part of a circuit. Voltmeters usu- • Test all repairs after the work is done to make sure that the
ally have various scales and a selector switch to allow the reading of different problem is fixed. Some causes can be traced to more than one component,
voltage ranges. The voltmeter has a positive and a negative lead. To avoid dam- so a careful verification of repair work is important in order to pick up additional
age to the meter, always connect the negative lead to the negative (-) side of the malfunctions that may cause a problem to reappear or a different problem to
circuit (to ground or nearest the ground side of the circuit) and connect the pos- arise. A blown fuse, for example, is a simple problem that may require more
itive lead to the positive(+) side of the circuit (to the power source or the near- than another fuse to repair. If you don't look for a problem that caused a fuse to
est power source). Note that the negative voltmeter lead will always be black and blow, a shorted wire (for example) may go undetected.
that the positive voltmeter will always be some color other than black (usually Experience has illustrated that most problems tend to be the result of a fairly
red). simple and obvious cause, such as loose or corroded connectors, bad grounds
• Ohmmeter-the ohmmeter is designed to read resistance (measured in or damaged wire insulation which causes a short. This makes careful visual
ohms) in a circuit or component. Most ohmmeters will have a selector switch inspection of components during testing essential to quick and accurate trou-
which permits the measurement of different ranges of resistance (usually the bleshooting.
selector switch allows the multiplication of the meter reading by 10, 100, 1,000
and 10,000). Some ohmmeters are "auto-ranging" which means the meter itself
will determine which scale to use. Since the meters are powered by an internal Testing
battery, the ohmmeter can be used like a self-powered test light. When the ohm-
meter is connected, current from the ohmmeter flows through the circuit or VOLTAGE
component being tested. Since the ohmmeter's internal resistance and voltage
are known values, the amount of current flow through the meter depends on the This test determines voltage available from the battery and should be the first
resistance of the circuit or component being tested. The ohmmeter can also be step in any electrical troubleshooting procedure after visual inspection. Many
used to perform a continuity test for suspected open circuits. In using the meter electrical problems, especially on electronically controlled systems, can be
for making continuity checks, do not be concerned with the actual resistance caused by a low state of charge in the battery. Excessive corrosion at the battery
readings. Zero resistance, or any ohm reading, indicates continuity in the cir- cable terminals can cause poor contact that will prevent proper charging and full
cuit. Infinite resistance indicates an opening in the circuit. A high resistance battery current flow.
reading where there should be none indicates a problem in the circuit. Checks 1. Set the voltmeter selector switch to the 20V position.
for short circuits are made in the same manner as checks for open circuits, 2. Connect the multimeter negative lead to the battery's negative(-) post or
except that the circuit must be isolated from both power and normal ground. terminal and the positive lead to the battery's positive(+) post or terminal.
Infinite resistance indicates no continuity, while zero resistance indicates a dead 3. Turn the ignition switch ON to provide a load.
short. 4. A well charged battery should register over 12 volts. If the meter reads
below 11.5 volts, the battery power may be insufficient to operate the electrical
**WARNING system properly.
Never use an ohmmeter to check the resistance of a component or
wire while there is voltage applied to the circuit. VOLTAGE DROP
• Ammeter-an ammeter measures the amount of current flowing through a When current flows through a load, the voltage beyond the load drops. This
circuit in units called amperes or amps. At normal operating voltage, most cir- voltage drop is due to the resistance created by the load and also by small resis-
cuits have a characteristic amount of amperes, called "current draw" which can tances created by corrosion at the connectors and damaged insulation on the
be measured using an ammeter. By referring to a specified current draw rating, wires. The maximum allowable voltage drop under load is critical, especially if
then measuring the amperes and comparing the two values, one can determine there is more than one load in the circuit, since all voltage drops are cumulative.
what is happening within the circuit to aid in diagnosis. An open circuit, for 1. Set the voltmeter selector switch to the 20 volt position.
example, will not allow any current to flow, so the ammeter reading will be zero. 2. Connect the multimeter negative lead to a good ground.
A damaged component or circuit will have an increased current draw, so the 3. Operate the circuit and check the voltage prior to the first component (load).
reading will be high. The ammeter is always connected in series with the circuit 4. There should be little or no voltage drop in the circuit prior to the first
being tested. All of the current that normally flows through the circuit must also component. If a voltage drop exists, the wire or connectors in the circuit are
flow through the ammeter; if there is any other path for the current to follow, the suspect.
ammeter reading will not be accurate. The ammeter itself has very little resis- 5. While operating the first component in the circuit, probe the ground side
tance to current flow and, therefore, will not affect the circuit, but it will measure of the component with the positive meter lead and observe the voltage readings.
current draw only when the circuit is closed and electricity is flowing. Excessive A small voltage drop should be noticed. This voltage drop is caused by the
current draw can blow fuses and drain the battery, while a reduced current draw resistance of the component.
can cause motors to run slowly, lights to dim and other components to not 6. Repeat the test for each component (load) down the circuit.
operate properly. 7. If a large voltage drop is noticed, the preceding component, wire or con-
nector is suspect.
Troubleshooting the Electrical System RESISTANCE
When diagnosing a specific problem, organized troubleshooting is a must.
The complexity of a modern marine vessel demands that you approach any
problem in a logical, organized manner. There are certain troubleshooting tech- **WARNING
niques, however, which are standard: Never use an ohmmeter with power applied to the circuit. The ohm-
• Establish when the problem occurs. Does the problem appear only meter is designed to operate on its own power supply. The normal
under certain conditions? Were there any noises, odors or other unusual symp- 12 volt electrical system voltage could damage the meter!
toms? Isolate the problem area. To do this, make some simple tests and obser-
vations, then eliminate the systems that are working properly. Check for obvious 1. Isolate the circuit from the vessel's power source.
problems, such as broken wires and loose or dirty connections. Always check 2. Ensure that the ignition key is OFF when disconnecting any components
the obvious before assuming something complicated is the cause. or the battery.
• Test for problems systematically to determine the cause once 3. Where necessary, also isolate at least one side of the circuit to be checked,
the problem area is isolated. Are all the components functioning properly? in order to avoid reading parallel resistances. Parallel circuit resistances will
Is there power going to electrical switches and motors. Performing careful, sys- always give a lower reading than the actual resistance of either of the branches.

4. Connect the meter leads to both sides of the circuit (wire or component) 3. If the light comes on or there is continuity, there is a short somewhere in
and read the actual measured ohms on the meter scale. Make sure the selector the circuit.
switch is set to the proper ohm scale for the circuit being tested, to avoid mis- 4. To isolate the short, probe a test point at either end of the isolated circuit
reading the ohmmeter test value. (the light should be on or the meter should indicate continuity).
5. Leave the test light probe engaged and sequentially open connectors
OPEN CIRCUITS or switches, remove parts, etc. until the light goes out or continuity is bro-
ken.
• See Figure 10 6. When the light goes out, the short is between the last two circuit compo-
nents which were opened.
This test already assumes the existence of an open in the circuit and it is
used to help locate the open portion.
1. Isolate the circuit from power and ground. Wire and Connector Repair
2. Connect the self-powered test light or ohmmeter ground clip to the Almost anyone can replace damaged wires, as long as the proper tools and
ground side of the circuit and probe sections of the circuit sequentially. parts are available. Wire and terminals are available to fit almost any need. Even
3. If the light is out or there is infinite resistance, the open is between the the specialized weatherproof, molded and hard shell connectors are now avail-
probe and the circuit ground. able from aftermarket suppliers.
4. If the light is on or the meter shows continuity, the open is between the Be sure the ends of all the wires are fitted with the proper terminal hardware
probe and the end of the circuit toward the power source. and connectors. Wrapping a wire around a stud is never a permanent solution
and will only cause trouble later. Replace wires one at a time to avoid confusion.
Always route wires in the same manner of the manufacturer.
When replacing connections, make absolutely certain that the connectors are
certified for marine use. Automotive wire connectors may not meet United States
Coast Guard (USCG) specifications.
,..If connector repair is necessary, only attempt ii if you have the proper
tools. Weatherproof and hard shell connectors require special tools to
release the pins inside the connector. Attempting to repair these con-
nectors with conventional hand tools will damage them.
Electrical System Precautions

• Wear safety glasses when working on or near the battery.
• Don't wear a watch with a metal band when servicing the battery or starter.
Serious burns can result if the band completes the circuit between the positive
battery terminal and ground.
• Be absolutely sure of the polarity of a booster battery before making
connections. Connect the cables positive-to-positive, and negative-to-nega-
tive. Connect positive cables first, and then make the last connection to
TCCA6P10 ground on the body of the booster vessel so that arcing cannot ignite hydro-
gen gas that may have accumulated near the battery. Even momentary connec-
Fig. 10 The infinite reading on this multimeter (1 . ) indicates that tion of a booster battery with the polarity reversed will damage alternator
the circuit is open diodes.
• Disconnect both vessel battery cables before attempting to charge a bat-
SHORT CIRCUITS tery.
• Never ground the alternator or generator output or battery terminal. Be
cautious when using metal tools around a battery to avoid creating a short cir-
,..Never use a self-powered test light to perform checks for opens or cuit between the terminals.
shorts when power is applied to the circuit under test. The test light can • When installing a battery, make sure that the positive and negative cables
be damaged by outside power. are not reversed.
1. Isolate the circuit frnm power and ground. • Always disconnect the battery (negative cable first) when charging.
2. Connect the self-powered test light or ohmmeter ground clip to a good • Never smoke or expose an open flame around the battery . Hydrogen gas
ground and probe any easy-to-reach point in the circuit. accumulates near the battery and is highly explosive.
BREAKER POINTS IGNITION (MAGNETO IGNITION)

•See Figures 11, 12and13 widening gap. The condenser is wired in parallel with the points. The condenser
absorbs some of the current flow as the points open. This reduces arc over and
,..All Suzuki outboard engines use a pointless electronic ignition system extends the life of the points.
with the exception of the pre-1990 DT2 engines which use a breaker The breaker point ignition consists of the rotor assembly, contact point
point type magneto. assembly, ignition coil, condenser spark plug, spark plug cap and the engine
This ignition system uses a mechanically switched, collapsing field to induce stop switch.
spark at the plug. A magnet moving by a coil produces current in the primary As the pole pieces of the magnet pass over the heels of the coil, a magnetic field
coil winding. The current in the primary winding creates a magnetic field. When is built up about the coil, causing a current to flow through the primary winding.
the points are closed the current goes to ground. As the breaker points open the At the proper time, the breaker points are separated by action of a cam
primary magnetic field collapses across the secondary field. This induces designed into the collar of the crankshaft and the primary circuit is broken.
(transforms) a high voltage potential in the secondary coil winding. This high When the circuit is broken, the flow of primary current stops and causes the
voltage current travels to the spark plug and jumps the gap. magnetic field about the coil to break down instantly. At this precise moment, an
The breaker point ignition system contains a condenser that works like a electrical current of extremely high voltage is induced in the fine secondary
sponge in the circuit. Current that is flowing through the primary circuit tries to windings of the coil. This high voltage is conducted to the spark plug where it
keep going. When the breaker point switch opens the current will arc over the jumps the gap between the points of the plug to ignite the compressed charge
of air-fuel mixture in the cylinder.

The breaker points must be aligned accurately to provide the best contact
surface. This is the only way to assure maximum contact area between the point
surfaces; accurate setting of the point gap; proper synchronization; and satisfac-
tory point life. If the points are not aligned properly, the result will be premature
wear or pitting. This type of damage may change the cam angle, although the
actual distance will remain the same.
Magnetos installed on outboard engines will usually operate over extremely
long periods of time without requiring adjustment or repair. However, if ignition
system problems are encountered, and the usual corrective actions such as
replacement of spark plugs does not correct the problem, the magneto output
should be checked to determine if the unit is functioning properly.
System Testing
Perform a spark test if you suspect the ignition system of not working properly.
**WARNING
When checking the spark, make sure there is no fuel on either the
engine or the spark plug. Also keep your hands away from high volt-
age electrical components.
1. Remove the spark plug and ground the plug electrode to the engine.
2. Pull the recoil starter and check for spark at the plug.
If there is a good spark at the plug, the ignition system should be performing
properly. If there is no spark, precede to the next step in Troubleshooting the
ignition system problem.
CD Key ® Contact point assembly
® Rotor assembly ® Ignition coil
® Spark plug cap (J) Condenser
Breaker Points
©Spark plug ® Engine stop switch
05005G01 POINT GAP ADJUSTMENT
Fig. 11 Breaker points installation-DT2
~Before checking the ignition timing, be sure that the contact point
faces are in good condition. Smoothen and make parallel the two faces
by grinding with an oil stone as much as necessary and then clean the
points by wiping them with cloth dampened with a suitable solvent.
Then apply a small amount of grease to the breaker shaft.
r®r® ©
® 1. Remove the engine cover to access the engine.
2. Remove the hand rewind starter assembly.
l .
® : Engine stop switch
@ : Contact point
© : Condenser -
@ : Ignition coil
® : Spark plug
l ~There are slots in the flywheel rotor in which to insert the feeler
gauge and measure the points gap without removing the flywheel itself.
3. Rotate the stator base until it is at the wide open throttle position.
4. Turn the crankshaft using a wrench on the flywheel nut clockwiseuntil
the breaker point rubbing block touches the high point on the cam. At this point
the points will be wide open.
5. Measure the point gap with a feeler gauge. There should be a slight drag on
05005G02 the feeler gauge if the gap is correct. The point gap should measure: 0.012-0.016
Fig. 12 Breaker points ignition wiring-DT2 in. (0.3-0.4 mm). If the gap is out of specification, adjustment will be necessary.
Bad Bad
Good
05005G03 05005G04 05005G08
Fig. 13 Adjusting the breaker points igni- Fig. 14 Examples of good and bad point Fig. 15 Measure the point gap with a
tion on the DT2 model faces feeler gauge

TESTING

1. Remove the flywheel.
2. Remove the spark plug.
3. With the contact points set right, now check the ignition timing by using
the timing gauge (09931-00112). Remove the spark plug and install this gauge
in the spark plug hole as illustrated. Bring the piston up to TDC and set the
indicating hand of the gauge to read zero millimeters.
4. Obtain atiming digital multimeter, also know as a buzz box: (0990G-27003).
5. Disconnect the breaker point leads from the stator base.
6. Connect the positive (red) digital multimeter lead to the black lead of the
contact breaker and the negative digital multimeter lead to an engine ground.
7. Gently turn the flywheel clockwise (with the digital multimeter switch 05005G05
turned ON) until the digital multimeter starts buzzing.
Step 5
05005G07
05005G06
Step 3
Step 6
05005G09
04706G05
Step 4 Step 8

2. Remove the fuel tank assembly.
3. Remove the recoil starter assembly.
4. Remove the starter cup and magneto insulator.
5. With a flywheel holder or a commonly available strap wrench, hold the
flywheel and loosen the retaining nut.
6. With the flywheel rotor remover (09930-30713) remove the fly-
wheel. Make sure to keep track of the flywheel key when removing the fly-
wheel.
7. Disconnect the plug cap and the two lead wires (that are coming from
the stator) and remove the stator.
05004G04
8. A typical points set with major components identified.
9. Point faces must be in good condition and aligned correctly. Step 9

10. Remove the stator base screw which holds the breaker point assembly to faulty condenser may not be detected without the use of special test equipment.
the base. Testing will reveal any defects in the condenser, but will not predict the useful
11. Disconnect the coil and condenser leads at the breaker point. Now life left in the unit.
remove the breaker point assembly. The modest cost of a new condenser justifies its purchase and installation to
12. Remove the condenser from the stator base by removing the screw. eliminate this item as a source of trouble.
To install:
13. Install the replacement breaker point set on the stator base. Make sure TESTING
the pivot point on the bottom of the point set engages the hole in the stator
base. Now, install, but don't tighten the retaining screw. 1. Remove the flywheel.
14. Install the condenser on the stator base and now tighten the retaining 2. Disconnect the condenser lead from the breaker points assembly.
screw securely. 3. Connect on test lead to the condenser lead. Connect the other test lead to
15. Reconnect the stator leads. Inspect the connectors and clean off any cor- the stator base.
rosion before connecting. 4. Set the digital multimeter controls according to the manufacturers
16. Check the lubrication felt for dryness. If it dry, add a couple of drops of instructions. Check the condenser for resistance, leakage and capacity.
30w engine oil. 5. Compare the results in the previous step with the ignition digital multi-
17. Reconnect the spark plug lead. meter. Replace the condenser if it does not pass any one of the three tests.
~Before installing the flywheel, thoroughly inspect the crankshaft and
flywheel tapers. These surfaces must be absolutely clean and free of REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
oil, grease and dirt. Use solvent and a lint free cloth to clean the sur-
faces and then blow dry with compressed air. 1. Remove the engine cover.
18. Install the flywheel key, starter cup and flywheel and flywheel bolt. 2. Remove the fuel tank assembly.
Tighten the bolt to 30-36 ft. lbs. (40-50 Nm.) 3. Remove the recoil starter assembly.
19. Install the fuel and engine cover. 4. Remove the starter cup and magneto insulator.
5. With a flywheel holder or a commonly available strap wrench, hold the
flywheel and loosen the retaining nut.
Condenser 6. With the flywheel rotor remover (09930-30713) remove the flywheel.
Make sure to keep track of the flywheel key when removing the flywheel.
DESCRIPTION & OPERATION 7. Disconnect the plug cap and the two lead wires (that are coming from
8. Remove the stator base screw which holds the breaker point assembly to
t See Figure 16 the base.
In simple terms, a condenser is composed of two sheets of tin or aluminum 9. Disconnect the coil and condenser leads at the breaker point. Now
foil laid one on top of the other, but separated by a sheet of insulating material remove the breaker point assembly.
such as waxed paper, etc. The sheets are rolled into a cylinder to conserve 10. Remove the condenser from the stator base by removing the screw.
space and then inserted into a metal case for protection and to permit easy To install:
assembling. 11. Install the replacement breaker point set on the stator base. Make sure
The purpose of the condenser is to prevent excessive arcing across the the pivot point on the bottom of the point set engages the hole in the stator
points and to extend their useful life. When the flow of primary current is base. Now, install, but don't tighten the retaining screw.
brought to a sudden stop by the opening of the points, the magnetic field in the 12. Install the condenser on the stator base and now tighten the retaining
primary windings collapses instantly, and is not allowed to fade away, which screw securely.
would happen if the points were allowed to arc. 13. Reconnect the stator leads. Inspect the connectors and clean off any cor-
The condenser stores the electricity that would have arced across the points rosion before connecting.
and discharges that electricity when the points close again. This discharge is in 14. Check the lubrication felt for dryness. If it dry, add a couple of drops of
the opposite direction to the original flow, and tends to smooth out the current. 30w engine oil.
The more quickly the primary field collapses, the higher the voltage produced in 15. Reconnect the spark plug lead.
the secondary windings and delivered to the spark plugs. In this way, the con- ~Before installing the flywheel, thoroughly inspect the crankshaft and
denser (in the primary circuit), affects the voltage (in the secondary circuit) at flywheel tapers. These surfaces must be absolutely clean and free of
the spark plugs. oil, grease and dirt. Use solvent and a lint free cloth to clean the sur-
Modern condensers seldom cause problems, therefore, it is not necessary to faces and then blow dry with compressed air.
install a new one each time the points are replaced. However, if the points show
evidence of arcing, the condenser may be at fault and should be replaced. A 16. Install the flywheel key, starter cup and flywheel and flywheel bolt.
Tighten the bolt to 30-36 ft. lbs. (40-50 Nm.)
17. Install the fuel and engine cover.
ALTERNATE LAYERS OF
INSULATION - WAXED PAPER Ignition Coil
ALTERNATE LAYERS OF DESCRIPTION & OPERATION

~ "'""'FOIL
\
(Tin or Aluminum)
The coil is the heart of the ignition system. Essentially, it is nothing more
FOIL than a transformer which takes the relatively low voltage (12 volts) available
from the primary coil and increases it to a point where it will fire the spark plug
as much as 20,000 volts.
Once the voltage is discharged from the ignition coil the secondary circuit
INSULATION begins and only stretches from the ignition coil to the spark plugs via
04706P13
extremely large high tension leads. At the spark plug end, the voltage arcs in
the form of a spark, across from the center electrode to the outer electrode,
Fig. 16 This sketch illustrates how waxed paper, aluminum foil and and then to ground via the spark plug threads. This completes the ignition
insulation are rolled in the manufacture of a typical condenser circuit.

TESTING 8. Remove the stator base screw which holds the breaker point assembly to
the base.
1. Remove the flywheel. 9. Disconnect the coil and condenser leads at the breaker point. Now
2. For coil primary resistance: remove the breaker point assembly.
a. Disconnect the black primary ignition coil lead at the connector. 1O. Remove the condenser from the stator base by removing the screw.
To install:
b. Disconnect the secondary coil lead (spark plug wire) at the spark plug.
c. Make sure the ohmmeter is on the low-ohm scale. Connect the meter 11. Install the replacement breaker point set on the stator base. Make sure
between the primary coil lead and an engine ground. the pivot point on the bottom of the point set engages the hole in the stator
d. Check the resistance reading in the "Ignition Coil Resistance" chart. base. Now, install, but don't tighten the retaining screw.
3. For coil secondary resistance: 12. Install the condenser on the stator base and now tighten the retaining
a. Make sure the ohmmeter is on the high-ohms scale. screw securely.
b. Connect the meter between the secondary coil lead and an engine 13. Reconnect the stator leads. Inspect the connectors and clean off any cor-
ground. rosion before connecting.
c. Check the resistance reading in the "Ignition Coil Resistance" chart. 14. Check the lubrication felt for dryness. If it dry, add a couple of drops of
4. Replace the ignition coil if the either the primary or secondary resistance 30w engine oil.
does not meet specifications. 15. Reconnect the spark plug lead.
_.Before installing the flywheel, thoroughly inspect the crankshaft and
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION flywheel tapers. These surfaces must be absolutely clean and free of
oil, grease and dirt. Use solvent and a lint free cloth to clean the sur-
1. Remove the engine cover. faces and then blow dry with compressed air.
2. Remove the fuel tank assembly. 16. Install the flywheel key, starter cup and flywheel and flywheel bolt.
3. Remove the recoil starter assembly. Tighten the bolt to 30-36 ft. lbs. (40-50 Nm.)
4. Remove the starter cup and magneto insulator. 17. lnstal I the fuel and engine cover.
5. With a flywheel holder or a commonly available strap wrench, hold the 18. Remove the spark plug caps
flywheel and loosen the retaining nut. 19. With an ohmmeter, measure the resistance between the spark plug
6. With the flywheel rotor remover (09930-30713) remove the wires. Resistance should measure 6.4K-9.6K ohms.
flywheel. Make sure to keep track of the flywheel key when removing the fly- 20. Measure the resistance between the primary terminal and the coil
wheel. mounting lug (for ground).
7. Disconnect the plug cap and the two lead wires (that are coming from 21. Resistance should measure 0.46-0.66 ohms.
CAPACITOR DISCHARGE IGNITION (COi) SYSTEM

theory of induction. Induction theory states that if we move a magnet (magnetic
Description and Operation field) past a coil of wire( or the coil by the magnet), AC current will be generated
in the coil.
SINGLE-CYLINDER IGNITION The amount of current produced depends on several factors:
• How fast the magnet moves past the coil
• See Figure 17 • The size of the magnet( strength)
• How close the magnet is to the coil
In its simplest form, a CD! ignition is composed of the following elements: • Number of turns of wire and the size of the windings
• Magneto When the flywheel rotates, the electrical power generated at the exciter coil is
• Pulser coil rectified by the diode and charged into the ignition condenser. The thyristor is
• Charge, or source coil off at this time.
• Igniter (CD!) box When the magnet on the crankshaft passes the pulser coil, the electric pulser
• Ignition coil coil signal is emitted by the magnetic force. This signal passes the gate circuit,
• Spark plug turns on the thyristor, and discharges the electric charge from the condenser.
Other components such as main switches, stop switches, or computer sys- When the discharged current flows through the ignition coil primary circuit,
tems may be included, though, these items are not necessary for basic CD! high voltage is generated in the secondary circuit and the spark plug sparks.
operation. The spark advance is handled by electronic advance spark system, which
To understand basic COi operation, it is important to understand the basic advances the ignition timing when the gate circuit turns on the thyristor accord-
ing to the engine speed to obtain high speed power.
The current produced in the charge coil goes to the CD! box. On the way in, it
is converted to DC current by a diode. This DC current is stored in the capacitor
CD located inside the box. As the charge coil produces current, the capacitor stores it.
At a specific time in the magneto's revolution, the magnets go past the pulser
coil. The pulser coil is smaller than the charge coil so it has less current output.
The current from the pulser also goes into the CD! box. This current signals the
COi box when to fire the capacitor (the pulser may be called a trigger coil for
obvious reasons). The current from the capacitor flows out to the ignition coil
and spark plug. The pulser acts much like the points in older ignitions systems.
When the pulser signal reaches the CD! box, all the electricity stored in the
capacitor is released at once. This current flows through the ignition coil's pri-
mary windings.
The ignition coil is a step-up transformer. It turns the relatively low voltage
1. Blue/Red 3. Plug cap entering the primary windings into high voltage at the secondary windings. This
2. Tester 4. Core occurs due to a phenomena known as induction.
05005G10 The high voltage generated in the secondary windings leaves the ignition coil
and goes to the spark plug. The spark in turn ignites the air-fuel charge in the
Fig. 17 DT2 I DT2.2 COi igniter unit
combustion chamber.

Once the complete cycle has occurred, the spinning magneto immediately reason, metal (brass) is cast in the spigot joint of the oil seal housing and
starts the process over again. stator base.
Main switches, engine stop switches, and the like are usually connected Parts of the stator base include a coil which charges a capacitor of the
on the wire in between the CDI box and the ignition coil. When the main CDI unit, a pulser coil which sends a signal to the CDI unit at ignition timing,
switch or stop switch is turned to the OFF position, the switch is closed. This and a lighting coil which generates a lighting output of 12V and SOW.
closed switch short-circuits the charge coil current to ground rather than
sending it through the CDI box. With no charge coil current through the CDI DT9.9 and DT15
box, there is no spark and the engine stops or, if the engine is not running, The DT9.9 and DT15 are equipped with a single ignition coil for two
no spark is produced. cylinders in their ignition systems. On these models the CDI unit
electronically advances the ignition timing when the spark plugs are firing.
SUZUKI PEI IGNITION The CDI unit and secondary ignition coils are separate components.
The Suzuki PEI (Pointless Electronic Ignition) is a magneto CDI type DT25 and DT30
system.
The DT25 and DT30 use the J.C. ignition system. A built in J.C. control unit
DT4 and DT5Y monitors the degree of throttle opening and the engine rpm, then determines
ideal spark timing. This not only improves acceleration, but by maintaining
• See Figure 18 optimum carburetion and ignition synchronization, the engines run smoother
The DT4 and DT5Y models have an ignition which uses 1 ignition coil, a and respond quicker to changes in throttle operation.
single primary coil, one pulser coil, an optional lighting coil. The CDI unit The ignition system is comprised of three pulser coils, a battery charge
coil, condenser charging coil and a gear counter coil. These coils are
itself electronically advances the ignition timing when firing the spark plugs.
connected to the CDI unit and along with the throttle position sensor and
The secondary ignition coils and CDI unit are separate components. engine temperature sensor determines the ignition sequence.
DT6 • In the 91 and later models, a single sensor called a cooling water &
The DT6 models use a single condenser charge coil, lighting coil and engine temperature sensor was used. This sensor served two purposes:
single pulser coil which in turn supply current to a combined CDI unit and one is to detect the engine temperature with which to select either of the
single secondary coil with two spark plug wires. The stator base moves two different starting ignition timing duration's at 5°BTDC (3 seconds for
according to the throttle opening to obtain the proper ignition timing. For this a warm engine and 15 seconds for a cold engine) so as to improve engine
Emergency switch
(Option)
Lighting coil
(Option)
Bl
1 Stop switch
Receptacle Plug
(Option) (Option) 12V 30W
w
B (Directly powered
by lighting coil)
Or Or
Rectifier
(Option)
R
12V 30W
B (Powered by
r-;!E:.,,.';_ _(:u.,..f:.., battery)
Battery
(Option)
12V
Fig. 18 The DT4 and DT5Y models have an ignition which uses 1 ignition coil, a single primary coil, one pulser coil, an optional lighting coil

1. Stator assy
2. Coil, lighting 1. CDI unit 3. Spark plug
3. Coil, ignition primar 2. Cap, spark plug 4. Switch assy, stop
05005G13
Fig. 19 The DT9.9 and DT15 are equipped with a single ignition coil for two cylinders in their ignition systems
starting. The sensor's other function is to determine if the cooling water timing coil and a lighting coil are mounted on the stator. The ignition coil is
level reaches the powerhead. From the 92-on models, this sensor has contained in the COi unit. The ignition timing characteristics are the result of the
been eliminated. To replace this sensor, two separate sensors, the advance angle of the sliding stator. An electronic advance system employing the
engine starting ignition liming sensor and overheat sensor, have been J.C. ignition has been adopted in the advance angle of the magneto to assure
installed. highly precise timing characteristics. The COi unit includes the over-rev limiter
and oil warning circuit.
DT35 and DT40
DT55, DT65, DT75 and DT85
• See Figure 20
The ignition systems on these models are equipped with the Digital IC Igni-
The DT35 and OT40 models use a 2-cylinder, simultaneous ignition COi sys- tion system. This ignition system automatically alters the ignition timing elec-
tem. The system is made up of the magneto, COi unit. A condenser charge coil, tronically based on throttle valve position and engine speed. This system is
comprised of 3 pulser coils, battery charging coil, condenser charge coil. There
is also a gear counter coil to control ignition timing at all rpm and an ignition
CD timing sensor that provides an automatic 5°BTDC advance for engine starting
(15 seconds when cold, 3 seconds when warm) and a throttle valve position
sensor.
DT90, DT100
These models are equipped with the Micro-Link ignition system. This system
incorporates a microcomputer to improve engine performance by maximizing
combustion control. This system uses information from sensors and switches
located a various positions on the engine to monitor throttle valve opening,
engine rpm, shift lever position and operator selected idle speed. The micro-
computer constantly evaluates this information and instantly provides the opti-
mal spark timing for the current engine running conditions.
The Micro-Link system also monitors the caution system sensors for oil
level, oil flow, water flow and engine over-rev. If any of these sensors indicate a
malfunction, the microcomputer will activate a warning buzzer and/or monitor
gauge indicator lamp and then operate the engine under reduced power.
The magneto consists of the following components. Each coil functions as
follows:
• The condenser charging coil charges the condenser for the spark primary
power source in the COi unit.
• The pulser coils, being positioned at intervals of 70°and 110°, input a
reference pulse, for the corresponding cylinder, causing the condenser to be
discharged into the microcomputer inside the COi unit.
• The counter coil causes a reference pulse to decide the ignition timing to
CD CDI unit holder @ Oil warning lamp be input into the microcomputer.
terminal fix bolt assy
• The battery charging coils, No.1 and No.2, perform power generating nec-
® Magneto lead wire essary to charge the battery.
@ CDI unit holder In addition, the microcomputer gets it's 12 volt operating power from the bat-
@ CDI unit <J) High tension cord tery.
@ CDI unit band
05005G58 Carbureted DT115 and DT140
Fig. 20 The DT35 and DT40 models use a 2-cylinder, simultaneous
The ignition systems on these models is the Suzuki Digital IC Ignition sys-
ignition COi system
tem. This ignition system automatically alters the ignition timing electronically

based on throttle valve position and engine speed. This system is comprised of level, oil flow, water flow and engine over-rev. If any of these sensors indicate a
4-pulser coils, battery charging coil, condenser charge coil. There is also a gear malfunction, the microcomputer will activate a warning buzzer and/or monitor
counter coil to control ignition timing at all rpm, an ignition timing sensor that gauge indicator lamp and then operate the engine under reduced power.
provides an automatic 7°BTDC advance for engine starting. It will remain at The magneto consists of the following components. Each coil functions as
7°BTDC for 12-15 seconds, at which time the ignition timing will return to the follows:
idle speed circuit and whatever position the "Idle Speed Adjustment Switch" is • The condenser charging coil charges the condenser for the spark primary
set at. power source in the COi unit.
• The pulser coils, positioned 120°apart. When the pulser coil voltage
**CAUTION enters the delay circuit, the CDI unit begins to count the voltage signals from
the gear counter coil and will release the signal from the delay circuit when the
Due to the higher idle speed created by this automatic starting flywheel indicates the proper piston position according to the idle speed adjust-
device, DO NOT shift the engine until the engine rpm has returned ment switch setting.
to idle speed. • The counter coil causes a reference pulse to decide the ignition timing to
be input into the microcomputer.
Fuel Injected DT115 and DT140 • The battery charging coils, No.1 and No.2, perform power generating nec-
essary to charge the battery.
The fuel injected models use the Suzuki Micro-Link ignition system. This In addition, the microcomputer gets it's 12 volt operating power from the bat-
system uses sensors to monitor specific engine operating conditions and sup- tery.
plies signals to an Engine Control Unit (ECU) for ignition and warning opera-
tion. The primary ignition sensors are the throttle valve sensor (TVS) for
determining throttle valve opening angle and the engine speed sensor (gear System Testing
count coil) that determines engine speed.
Based on these signals, the ECU determines the ignition timing necessary for PROCEDURE
the engine's current requirements and delivers voltage to the ignition coils thus
producing ignition spark.
Two compensation sensors, cylinder wall temperature and air temperature, Perform a visual inspection of the wiring connections and grounds. Deter-
supply signals used by the ECU to compensate ignition timing based on tem- mine if the problem affects all or just certain cylinders and perform a spark
perature related conditions. A pulser coil supplies crankshaft angle signals check using a spark gap tool ("spark tester") and then check ignition timing with
which the ECU uses when determining a trigger signal for the ignition. a timing light.
If the problem affects all the cylinders, check the capacitor charge coil out-
OUR/NG START put, engine stop switch, COi unit output and pulse coil output.
If the problem affects individual cylinders only, check the components whose
At engine start, the ignition timing is set at 5°BTDC Sequential operation
failure would affect that particular cylinder such as the pulse coil and ignition
while cranking (below 440 rpm).
coil performance.
AFTER START If the problem is timing related, check the mechanical part of the system,
such as the pulse coil or CDI box itself and then check the electronic timing
After engine start, keeping the throttle lever at the idle position will allow the advance components of the system, the throttle position sensor (if applicable),
ECU "Warm-up mode" map to control the ignition timing in relation to cylinder the pulse coil(s) and the CDI module.
wall temperature. In this mode, ignition timing stays advanced above normal COi troubleshooting can be performed with a peak reading voltmeter. This
until the cylinder wall temperature reaches 113° (45°C) the timer, which was set will check the COi voltage to the ignition coils.
according to cylinder wall temperature, expires. • If COi voltage is good, isolate individual ignition coils or spark plugs and
NORMAL OPERATING MOOE check output voltage.
• If the COi voltage is bad, check all COi input voltages.
When the "Warm-up mode" ends, the ECU changes to the "Normal operating • Check the pulse coil output to the CDI unit.
mode". This mode is based on the map control in relation to engine speed, • Check the capacitor charge coil output to the COi unit.
throttle valve opening angle, cylinder wall temperature and air temperature. • Check the pulser coil output to the COi unit.
If all the input voltages are normal, the problem has now been isolated to the
FAIL SAFE MOOE CDI unit itself. If any input voltage is abnormal, check the appropriate coil for
Each sensor has an assigned default value programmed into the ECU. In the winding resistance and insulation breakdown. If the problem is timing related,
event of a sensor failure, the monitor gauge flash code will indicate the failure check all the timing inputs to the CDI unit, such as the throttle position sensor.
and the engine will continue to operate, but with much reduced performance, If the timing inputs are good, the problem is isolated to the CDI unit.
ignition timing during a sensor failure will automatically default to the following
method of control:
• Throttle valve sensor failure: Ignition timing will be automatically set Pulsar/Charging/Gear Counter Coils
according to the engine speed.
• Cylinder wall temperature sensor failure: Ignition timing will be automati- DESCRIPTION & OPERATION
cally set as if the sensor senses 86°F (30°C).
• Air temperature sensor failure: Ignition timing will be automatically set as The second circuit used in CDI systems is the pulsar circuit. The pulsar cir-
if the sensor senses 68°F (20°C). cuit has its own flywheel magnet, a pulsar coil, a diode, and a thyristor. A
• If either gear counter coil or pulser coil fails, the ECU will not provide and thyristor is a solid state electronic switching device which permits voltage to
injection signal without a reference from these coils. Under this condition, the flow only after it is triggered by another voltage source.
engine can be cranked, but it will not start due to no fuel injection pressure. At the point in time when the ignition timing marks align, an alternating cur-
rent is induced in the pulsar coil, in the same manner as previously described
DT150, DT175, DT200 and DT225 for the charge coil. This current is then passed to a second diode located in the
These models are equipped with the Micro-Link ignition system. This system CDI unit where it becomes DC current and flows on to the thyristor. This voltage
incorporates a microcomputer to improve engine performance by maximizing triggers the thyristor to permit the voltage stored in the capacitor to be dis-
combustion control. This system uses information from sensors and switches charged. The capacitor voltage passes through the thyristor and on to the pri-
located a various positions on the engine to monitor throttle valve opening, mary windings of the ignition coil.
engine rpm, shift lever position and operator selected idle speed. The micro- In this manner, a spark at the plug may be accurately timed by the timing
computer constantly evaluates this information and instantly provides the opti- marks on the flywheel relative to the magnets in the flywheel and to provide as
mal spark timing for the current engine running conditions. many as 100 sparks per second for a powerhead operating at 6000 rpm.
The Micro-Link system also monitors the caution system sensors for oil A system of battery charging is standard on all electric start model engines.

The battery charging system is made up of charge coil(s) or an A/C 4. To test the lighting coil, connect the digital multimeter between the
lighting coil on some models. The permanent magnets located on the yellow and red wires. Resistance should read between 0.1-0.2 ohms for the
flywheel edge, a rectifier (voltage regulator/rectifier on some models), a DT4 and DTSY and 0.37-0.45 ohms for the DT6 and DT8.
battery and the associated wiring and fuses. 5. II the resistance reading is not within specification, replace the faulty
Rotation of the flywheel magnets past the charge coil or A/C lighting coils coil.
will create alternating current. This current is then sent to the rectifier or
voltage regulator/rectifier, where it is then converted to direct current and DT9.9 and DT15
then supplied to the battery or electrical accessories through a fuse.
The capacitor charge coil supplies electricity to the CDI unit. As the t See accompanying illustrations
flywheel rotates past the capacitor charge coil, alternating current is 1. The two pulser coils are located at 180°angles to each other and the
produced. This voltage is supplied to the CDI unit and passes through a condenser and battery charge coils are also located opposite of each other
diode where it is rectified to direct current. This DIC voltage is then stored in under the flywheel.
the capacitor. 2. Remove the engine cover.
The gear counter coil (ii equipped) is the same construction and operation 3. On models equipped with electric starters, disconnect the negative
as the pulser coil, but it uses each ring gear tooth as a pulsar bar to battery cable.
generate a signal voltage to send to the CDI unit. 4. Disconnect the connector and black ground wire.
5. On the No.1 pulser coil, connect the digital multimeter between the
TESTING black/red wire terminal in the connector and the black ground wire. And the
No.2 coil between the white/green wire terminal in the connector and the
black ground wire. Resistance should be 260-380 ohms.
DT4, DTSV, DT6 and OTB 6. On the condenser charge coil, measure the resistance between the
black/red and green wires. Resistance should be between 170-250 ohms.
t See accompanying illustrations 7. II the resistance reading is not within specification, replace the faulty
1. Remove the engine cover. coil.
2. Disconnect the wires at the connectors between the stator plate and 8. On the battery charge coil, measure the resistance between the
the CDI unit. yellow/red and yellow wires, red and yellow wires (DT1 SMC) or the red and
3. To test the pulser coil, connect the digital multi-meter between the yellow wires (DT15CE). Resistance should measure between 0.2 and 0.5
white/red and black wires. Resistance should read 15.0-45.0 ohms for the ohms.
DT4 and DT5Y and 70-100 ohms for the DT6 and OTB. 9. II the resistance reading is not within specification, replace the faulty
coil.
White/Green
• \Black/Red
Step 5
1. Condenser charging coil

2. Pulser coil #1
3. Battery charging coil
CD
•
4. Pulser coil #2
Step 3
1. Green 2. Black red ®

Step 6
1. Red/yellow 2. Red 3. Yellow

Step4 Step 8

DT25 and DT30 red/black wire terminal and ground. For the No.2 pulser coil, connect the digital
multimeter between the white/black wire terminal and ground and for the No.3
pulser coil, connect the digital multimeter between the red/white wire terminal
1. The three pulser coils are located at 120°angles to each other underneath and ground. Resistance should measure 170-250 ohms on the multimeter.
the flywheel along with the condenser charge coil, battery charge coil and the 6. For the condenser charge coil, measure the resistance between the
gear counting coil. black/green and green wires. Resistance should measure between 170-250 ohms.
2. Remove the engine cover. 7. For the battery charge coil, measure the resistance between the
3. On models equipped with electric starters, disconnect the negative battery yellow/red and yellow wires and red and yellow wires {DT30MC) and the red
cable. and yellow wires (DT30CR). Resistance should measure between 0.2-0.6 ohms.
4. Disconnect the 6-pin connector and set the digital multimeter on the 8. For the gear counter coil, measure the resistance between the orange/green
ohms scale. and black wires. Resistance should measure between 160-240 ohms.
5. For the No.1 pulser coil, connect the digital multimeter between the 9. Replace the faulty coil if the resistance reading is not within specification.
Idle speed
adjustment
switch
1. Throttle valve sensor 5. Pulser coil #3

2. Gear counter coil 6. Condensor charging coil
3. Pulser coil #2 7. Pulser coil #1
4. Battery charging coil
05005G57
Step 1
Red/Black (No. 1)
White/Black (No. 2)
Red/White (No. 3)
Red
Yellow
Yellow/Red
05005G16 05005G40
Step 5 Step 7
Green Orange/Green
Green
Black/Red
@ '~_...._~_._~___ c::s
o
05005G41
05005G39
Step 6 Step 8

DT35 and DT40 • No.3: Connect the tester between the red/white wire and the black
ground wire
1. The pulser (timing coil) and lighting (battery) charge coil and condenser 6. Resistance should read between 170-250 ohms.
charge coil are all located underneath the flywheel on the stator base. 7. Connect the tester between each pulser coil colored wire lead and the
2. Remove the engine cover. metal mounting stay. There should be no continuity on the meter.
3. On models equipped with electric starters, disconnect the negative battery 8. On the condenser charge coil, measure the resistance between the
cable. green and black/red wires. The resistance should read between 190-270
4. For the pulser coil, measure the resistance between the white/red wire ohms.
lead and the black ground. Resistance should read 175-210 ohms. 9. On the battery charge coil, measure the resistance between the red and
5. For the battery charge coil, measure the resistance between the red and yellow wires. Resistance should read 0.2-0.6 ohms.
yellow wires. Resistance should measure between 0.20-210 ohms. 10. On the gear counter coil, measure the resistance between the
6. For the condenser charge coil, measure the resistance between the green orange/green and black/green wires. Resistance should measure between
and black wires. Resistance should measure between 230-280 ohms. 170-250 ohms.
7. Replace the faulty coil if the resistance reading is not within specification. 11. If the resistance reading is not within specification, replace the faulty
coil.
DT55 and DT65
1. The three pulser coils, condenser charge coil and battery charge coil are
all located underneath the flywheel
3. On models equipped with electric starters, disconnect the negative bat-
tery cable.
4. Disconnect each coil at the bullet connector.
5. For the pulser coils, connect the digital multimeter to the pulser leads as
follows:
• No.1: Connect the tester between the red/black wire and the black
ground wire
• No.2: Connect the tester between the white/black wire and black
ground wire
Core
05005G44
Step 8
Core
05005G45
05005P24
Step 1 Step 9
--
~ 8
No. 1 ... R/8
Stay No. 2 ... W/B
No. 3 ... R/W
1. Orange/Green
2. Black/Green
05005G18
05005G46
Step 5 Step 10

DT75 and DT85 • No.3: Connect the tester red between the red/white wire and the black
ground wire
• See accompanying illustrations 6. Resistance for the pulser coils should read between 160-240 ohms.
1. The three pulser coils are located at 120°angles to each other under- 7. On the gear counting coil, measure the resistance between the
neath the flywheel. orange/green and black/green wires. The resistance should read between
2. Remove the engine cover. 160-240 ohms.
3. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 8. On the condenser charging coil, measure the resistance between the
4. Disconnect the pulser coil wires which are located inside the electrical green and black (red tube) wires. Resistance should read 170-250 ohms.
junction box. 9. On the battery charging coil, measure the resistance between the red
5. Connect the digital multimeter to the pulser coil leads as follows: and yellow wires. Resistance should read 0.2-0.6 ohms.
• No.1: Connect the tester red lead between the red/black wire and the 10. If the resistance reading is not within specification, replace the faulty
black ground wire coil.
• No.2: Connect the tester red between the white/black wire and black
ground wire DT9D and DT1 DD
1. The four pulser coils, battery charging coil, condenser charging coil and
gear counting coil are all located underneath the flywheel, mounted on the stator
R/B base.
11 2. Remove the engine cover.
W/B 3. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
4. Disconnect the pulser coil wires which are located inside the electrical
R/W junction box.
5. Connect the digital multimeter to the pulser coil leads as follows:
Tester • No. 1: Connect the tester red lead between the red/green wire and
05005G19
ground
• No.2: Connect the tester red lead between the white/black wire and
Step 5 ground
White/Black
White/Green Black/Red
<D Green
Red/White
BlaJ~e~lliowjRed
Red/Green
,,
~
~:
0 0 '' ,,
'
1. Orange/Green /
/'
2. Black/Green '·· /'~~

Step 7
05005G47
t:t·
Disconnected
Tester
05005G48
Step 8
y
CD Condenser charging coil
® Pulser coil No. 1
@ Pulser coil No. 2
@Pulser coil No. 3
R
@ Pulser coil No. 4
® Battery charging coil No. 1
<J) Battery charging coil No. 2
Tester
@Counting coil
05005G49 05005G21
Step 9 Step 5

• No.3: Connect the tester red lead between the red/white wire and
ground
~~·
• No.4: Connect the tester red lead between the white/green wire and
Red/White ground
Red/Green
6. Resistance should read between 160-230 ohms.
7. On the condenser charging coil, measure the resistance between the
black/red and green wires. Resistance should read 180-270 ohms.
8. On the gear counting coil, measure the resistance between the
orange/green and black/green wires. Resistance should measure between
160-230 ohms.
9. On the battery charging coil, measure the resistance on both coils
between the red and yellow wires. Resistance should measure between 0.4-0.06
ohms.
10. If the resistance reading is not within specification, replace the faulty
coil.
DT115 and DT140

1. The four pulser coils, battery charging coil, condenser charging coil and
gear counting coil are located, underneath the flywheel, mounted on the stator
base,.
3. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
4. Disconnect the pulser coil wires which are located inside the electrical
CD Condenser charging coil junction box.
® Pulser coil No. 1 5. Connect the digital multimeter to the pulser coil leads as follows:
@ Pulser coil No. 2 • No.1: Connect the tester red lead between the red/green wire and the
©Pulser coil No. 3 black ground wire
@ Pulser coil No. 4 • No.2: Connect the tester red lead between the white/black wire and
@Battery charging coil No. 1 black ground wire
(j) Battery charging coil No. 2
@Counting coil • No.3: Connect the tester red lead between the red/white wire and the
05005850 black ground wire
Step 7 • No.4: Connect the tester red lead between the white/green wire and the
black ground wire. Resistance should read between 170-250 ohms.
1. Orange/Green
2. Black/Green
05005851
Step 8
1. Condenser charging coil #2 5. Battery charging coil #2

2. Battery charging coil #1 6. Condenser charging coil #1
05005852 05005820
Step 9 Step 5

Orange/Green
Vernier calipers
Pulser coil
Step8
8 mm (0.315 in)
6. On the battery charging coils, measure the resistance on No.1
between the yellow/red and yellow/red wires and on No.2 between the red
and yellow wires. Resistance should measure between 0.1-0.3 ohms. Step 10
7. On the condenser charging coils, measure the resistance on No.1
between the black/red and green wires and on No.2 between black/red and 5. Connect the digital multi-meter to the pulser coil leads as follows:
brown wires. Resistance should measure between 170-250 ohms. • No.1: Connect the tester red lead between the red/black wire and the
8. On the gear counting coil, measure the resistance between the black to ground
orange/green and black wires. The resistance should measure between • No.2: Connect the tester red lead between the white/black wire and the
170-250 ohms. black to ground
. 9. If the resistance reading is not within specification, replace the faulty • No.3: Connect the tester red lead between the red/white wire and the
corl. black to ground. Resistance should read between 160-240 ohms.
6. On the gear counter coil, measure the resistance between the coil
DT150, DT175, DT200 and DT225 wires. Resistance should read 160-240 ohms (220-340 ohms for the "W"
models '98 150,175, 200).
• See accompanying illustrations 7. On the condenser charge coil, measure the resistance between the
1. The three pulser coils, condenser coil and battery charging coil are charge coil wires for the low speed (325-575 ohms) and high speed (50-100
all mounted on the stator base underneath the flywheel assembly. ohms).
2. Remove the engine cover 8. On the battery charge coil, measure the resistance between each of
3. Disconnect the negative battery cable the coil wires. Resistance should read between 0.1-0.4 ohms.
4. Disconnect the pulser coil wires which are located inside the . 9. If the resistance reading is not within specification, replace the faulty
COii.
electrical junction box.
10. If .the coil is .:emoved or disturbed, it must be reassembled using the
pulser cOJl locatrng Jig (09931-88711) to be sure that the coil-to-flywheel
pulser bar arr gap of 0.32 in. (8 mm) is maintained.
DT4, DTSY, DTG and DT8

• See accompanying illustrations">
1. Remove the engine cover from the engine.
2. Remove the built-in fuel tank (ii equipped).
3. After removing the bolts, remove the recoil starter assembly.
4. Remove the starter cup. If the screws are hard to loosen use an
impact drive to remove them. '
5. Use the flywheel holder (09930-40113) to remove the flywheel nut.
(j) Condenser charging coil

® Pulser coil No. 1
@ Pulser coil No. 2
©Pulser coil No. 3
Step 5 Step 5

05005G29 05005G31
Step 6 Step 3
05005G30 05005G32
Step 10 Step 6
6. Use the flywheel holder and flywheel rotor remover (09930-30713) to

remove the flywheel.
7. Make sure to remove the flywheel key from the crankshaft.
8. Disconnect the stator wire leads.
9. Remove the screws and remove the ignition coil and pulser coil.
To install:
10. Install the pulser coil and ignition coil onto the engine.
11. Reconnect all the wires in their proper order.
12. Install the flywheel key into the keyway on the crankshaft. Make sure the
key is seated correctly into the keyway.
13. Install the flywheel onto the crankshaft.
14. Using the flywheel holder, install the flywheel nut and tighten to 32.5 ft.
lbs. (45 Nm).
15. Install the starter cup onfo the flywheel and tighten the screws.
16. Install the recoil starter.
05005G33
17. Install the fuel tank.
18. Install the engine cover. Step 7
DT9.9 and DT15

1. Remove the engine cover from the engine.
2. Remove the two nuts and disconnect the battery(s) cables and the neu-
tral switch wire (if equipped).
3. Remove the recoil starter assembly (if equipped).
4. Disconnect the wire lead extending from the stator assembly to the recti-
fier assembly.
5. Remove the two bolts and remove the starter motor from the engine.
6. Using the flywheel holder (09930-49310), remove the flywheel nut.
7. Using the flywheel holder and the flywheel remover plate
(09930-30713), remove the flywheel.
8. If any difficulty is experienced in removing the flywheel, tap the head
of the bolt with a hammer. This will usually help in the removal opera- 05005G34
tion.
9. Remove the key from the crankshaft keyway. Step 8

10. After the flywheel is removed, remove the stator base retaining screws 16. Install the starter pulley onto the flywheel.
and lift of the stator assembly. 17. Install the recoil starter assembly.
11. Remove the coils from the from the stator base. 18. Connect the battery negative battery cable.
To install: 19. Install the engine cover.
12. Install the coils onto the stator plate.
13. Install the stator base on the engine. DT35 and DT40
_.Make sure that the stator's alignment mark is in line with the stop- 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable lead to prevent accidental engine
per's alignment mark. start.
14. Install the key securely into the crankshaft keyway. 2. Remove the engine cover.
15. Install the flywheel onto the crankshaft. 3. Disconnect the wire leads in the electrical junction box and COi/controi
16. Using the flywheel holder, tighten the flywheel nut to 58-65 ft. lbs. unit holder, leading from the stator assembly.
(80-90 Nm) 4. Remove the recoil starter assembly.
17. Install the starter motor back onto the engine and securely tighten the 5. Using a flywheel holder (09930-39520), remove the flywheel nut.
bolts (if equipped). 6. Using a flywheel holder and a flywheel remover (09930-39410), remove
18. Reconnect the starter/battery cables and reconnect the neutral safety the flywheel and key.
switch lead wire. 7. Remove the stator screws and lift off the stator assembly. If necessary,
19. Install the recoil starter assembly (if equipped) use a impact driver to loosen the screws.
20. Connect the stator wires making sure all connections are free from cor- 8. Remove the coils from the stator base.
rosion and are securely fastened. To install:
21. Install the engine cover. 9. Install the coil onto the stator base and secure the screws with a small
amount of thread locking compound.
DT25 and DT30 10. Install the stator assembly onto the engine and secure the screws with a
small amount of thread locking compound.
• See accompanying illustrations 11. Throughly clean the mating surface of the flywheel and crankshaft taper
with cleaning solvent. Install the key onto the crankshaft securely.
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable lead to prevent accidental engine
start. 12. Install the flywheel onto thew crankshaft.
2. Remove the engine cover. 13. Using the flywheel holder, tighten the flywheel nut to 144.7-151.9 ft.
lbs. (200-210 Nm).
3. Disconnect the wire leads in the electrical junction box, leading from the
stator assembly. 14. Connect the stator wire leads to their proper connections.
4. Remove the recoil starter assembly. 15. Install the starter pulley onto the flywheel.
5. Using a screwdriver to hold the flywheel, remove the starter pulley bolts
16. Install the recoil starter assembly.
and lift of the starter pulley. 17. Connect the battery negative battery cable.
6. Using a flywheel holder (09930-48720), remove the flywheel nut. 18. Install the engine cover.
7. Using a flywheel holder and a flywheel remover (09930-39411 ), remove
the flywheel from the engine.
8. Remove the four screws and lift of the stator assembly and wiring har- • See accompanying illustrations
ness.
9. Remove the coils from the stator base. 1. The magneto assembly includes three pulser coils, condensing charge
To install: coil, battery charging coil.
10. Install the coils onto the stator base and use a small amount of thread 2. Remove the engine cover.
locking agent on the screw threads . 3. Remove the electrical junction box cover and disconnect the stator leads.
. 11. Install the stator base onto the engine and using a thread locking agent, 4. Remove the flywheel cover.
tighten the screws securely. 5. Using a flywheel holder (09930-39520) and flywheel & propeller shaft
12. Throughly clean the mating surface of the flywheel and crankshaft taper housing remover (09930-39410), remove the flywheel nut.
with cleaning solvent. Install the key onto the crankshaft securely. 6. Using the special tools, remove the flywheel from the crankshaft.
13. Using the flywheel holder, tighten the flywheel nut to 94-108 ft. lbs.
(130-150 Nm).
14. Measure the air gap between the coil and flywheel with a feeler gauge.
Clearance should be 0.03 in. (0.75 mm). Adjust the coil as necessary to obtain
the correct air gap clearance.
15. Connect the stator wire leads to their proper connections.
0.75 mm (0.03 in)

05005G35 05005P29
Step 14 Step 6

Pulser coil air gap adjustment
[Suzuki special tool: 09931-894101
[Air gap]: 0. 75 mm (0.03 in)
0. 75 mm (0.03 in)
05005P34 05005824
Step 8 Step 16
7. Make sure to remove the flywheel key before removing the magneto case
to prevent tearing the seal.
8. Remove the magneto case from the engine.
9. Remove the coil(s) from the magneto case
To install:
10. Install the coil(s) in the magneto case and secure the screws with a
small amount of thread locking compound.
11. Inspect the magneto case seal for damage or tears.
12. Install the magneto case on the engine and tighten the bolts using
thread locking compound.
13. Throughly clean the mating surface of the flywheel and crankshaft taper
with cleaning solvent Install the key onto the crankshaft securely.
14. Install the flywheel onto the crankshaft
15. Using the special tools, tighten the flywheel nut to 144.5-152 ft lbs.
(200-210 Nm).
16. If the pulser coil is removed or disturbed, it must be reassembled using
the pulser coil locating jig (09931-89410) to be sure that the coil-to-flywheel
pulser bar air gap of 0.03 in. (0.75 mm) is maintained.
05005P36 18. Connect the battery negative battery cable.
Step 9
DT90, DT100, DT115 and DT140
2. Remove the electrical junction box cover and disconnect the stator
leads.
3. Remove the flywheel cover.
4. Using a flywheel holder (09930-48720), remove the flywheel
nut
5. Using a flywheel holder, flywheel remover (09930-39411) and flywheel
bolts (09930-39420), remove the flywheel.
6. Remove the flywheel from the crankshaft
7. Remove the stator assembly and gear counter coil from the
engine.
8. Remove the coils from the stator assembly and wiring harness.
To install:
9. Install the coils onto the stator assembly and secure the screws with
10. Install the stator assembly onto the engine and secure the bolts with
with cleaning solvent Install the key onto the crankshaft securely.
05005P35
12. Install the flywheel onto the crankshaft
Step 11 (250-260 Nm).

(j)
1. Magneto lead wire protector tube

~
0.75 mm
10. Spacer 19. Clamp
2. Pulser coil no. 2 11. Cushion 20. Ring gear
3. Condenser charging coil 12. Stator 21. Magneto key
4. Stator 13. Battery charging coil no. 1 22. Washer
5. Battery charging coil no. 2 14. Pulser coil no. 1 23. Flywheel nut
6. Pulser coil no. 3 15. White tape al clamp position 24. Rotor
7. Pulser coil no. 4 16. Clamp 25. Pulser coil
8. Stator bolt 17. Rectifier lead wire (to fuse) 26. Pulser coil locating jig
9. Washer 18. Counting coil
05005G22
Step 14
1. Counter coif 6. Condenser charging coil #1 11. Pulser

2. Battery charging coil #1 7. Pulser coil #4 12. Pulser coil
3. Pulser coil #3 8. Condenser charging coil #2 13. No air gap
4. Battery charging coil #2 9. Pulser coil #1 14. Pulser coil locating jig
5. Pulser col! #2 10. Rotor
05005G23
Step 15
14. If the pulser coil is removed or disturbed, it must be re- 15. Make sure to use the proper jig, as the one for the DT115/140
assembled using the pulser coil locating jig (09931-88710) to be sure (09931-89421) is different from other models
that the coil-to-flywheel pulser bar air gap of 0.03 in. (0.75 mm) is main- 16. Connect the stator wire leads to their proper connections.
tained. 17. Connect the battery negative battery cable.

DT150, DT175, DT200 and DT225
leads.
4. Using a flywheel holder (09930-48720), remove the flywheel
nut.
6. Remove the flywheel from the crankshaft.
7. Remove the coils from the stator assembly and wiring harness.
To install:
8. Install the coils onto the stator assembly and secure the screws with
9. Fit the pulser coil locating jig onto the crankshaft as illustrated.
10. Locate the pulser coil 0.32 in. (8 mm) from the end of the pulser coil
locating jig using vernier calipers. With the pulser coil held in this position,
secure the attaching screws using a small amount of thread locking compound.
Install the other two pulser coils in this manner.
11. Throughly clean the mating surface of the flywheel and crankshaft taper Fig. 21 The coil is the heart of the ignition system
(250-260 Nm).
15. Connect the battery negative battery cable.
Pulser coil
.j I• 8 mm (0.315 in) 05005P46
05005G26 Fig. 22 Once the voltage is discharged from the ignition coil the
Step 9 secondary circuit begins and only stretches from the ignition coil to
the spark plugs via extremely large high tension leads
Ignition Coils

The coil is the heart of the ignition system. Essentially, it is nothing more
than a transformer which takes the relatively low voltage (12 volts) available
from the primary coil and increases it to a point where it will fire the spark plug
as much as 20,000 volts.
Once the voltage is discharged from the ignition coil the secondary circuit
begins and only stretches from the ignition coil to the spark plugs via extremely
large high tension leads. At the spark plug end, the voltage arcs in the form of a
spark, across from the center electrode to the outer electrode, and then to
ground via the spark plug threads. This completes the ignition circuit.
TESTING
• See Figure 23
1. Although the best test for an ignition coil is on a dynamic ignition coil
digital multimeter, resistance checks can also be done. 05005P48
2. There are two circuits in an ignition coil, the primary winding circuit and Fig. 23 The digital multimeter connection procedure for a continuity
the secondary winding circuit. Both need to be checked. check will depend on how the coil is constructed

3. The digital multi-meter connection procedure for a continuity check 3. Disconnect the CD! unit/ignition coil leads.
will depend on how the coil is constructed. Generally, the primary circuit is 4. Loosen the bolts and remove the CD! unit/ignition coil.
the small gauge wire or wires, while the secondary circuit contains the high
tension or plug lead. • The ignition coil and CDI unit are integrated into one assembly.
4. Some ignition coils have the primary and/or secondary circuits
grounded on one end. On these type coils, only the continuity check is done. To install:
On ignition coils that are not grounded on one end, the short-to-ground test 5. Install the CD! unit/ignition coil onto the engine.
must also be done. Regardless of the coil type, compare the resistance with 6. Connect the CD! unit/ignition coil leads. Make sure all connections
that found in supplemental "Ignition Coil Spec" chart. are tight and free of corrosion.
7. Install the spark plug wires.
• When checking the secondary side, make sure to read the 8. Install the engine cover.
procedure for your particular engine. Some models require the spark
plug caps be removed and others require them to remain on. In some DT9.9 and DT15
cases the cap is bad, not the coil. Bad resistor caps can be the cause • See accompanying illustrations
of high-speed misfire. Unscrew the cap and check the resistance (5
kilo-ohms). 1. Remove the engine cover.
2. Disconnect the spark plug wires.
5. The other method used to test ignition coils is with a Dynamic Ignition 3. Disconnect the two pole connector and the lead wire extending from
Coil Digital multi-meter. Since the output side of the ignition coil has very the CD! unit/ignition coil and remove from the engine.
high voltage, a regular voltmeter can not be used. While resistance reading
can be valuable, the best tool for checking dynamic coil performance is a • The ignition coil and CDI unit are integrated into one assembly.
dynamic ignition coil digital multi-meter.
6. Connect the coil to the digital multi-meter according to the To install:
manufacturer's instructions. 4. Install the CD! unit/ignition coil on the engine and connect the two-
7. Set the spark gap according to the specifications. pole connector.
8. Operate the coil for about 5 minutes. 5. Connect the CD! unit/ignition coil lead wire. Make sure all
9. If the spark jumps the gap with the correct spark color, the coil is connections are tight and free of corrosion.
probably good. 6. Connect the spark plug wires.
REMOVAL &INSTALLATION
DT4 and DTSY

1. Remove engine cover.
2. Disconnect the ignition coil leads and spark plug wires.
3. Remove the retaining bolts and remove the ignition coil.
To install:
4. The ignition coil core should always be sanded with emery cloth
before installing on the engine. Also sand the area on the cylinder block. This
ensures a good ground.
5. Install the retaining bolts and tighten snugly.
6. Connect the ignition coil lead wires. Make sure the connections are
tight and corrosion free.
7. Install the spark plug wires on the spark plugs.
DT6 and OTB

1. Remove the engine cover. Step 3
2. Disconnect the spark Qlug wires.
DT25 and DT30

1. Disconnect the battery negative cable.
4. Open the electrical parts holder and disconnect the ignition coil leads
at the COi unit.
5. Remove the ignition coil retaining bolts and remove the coils from the
engine.
To install:
6. Install the ignition coil on the engine and tighten the retaining bolts.
7. Connect the ignition coil leads at the COi unit. Make sure all
connections are tight and free of corrosion.
8. Replace the electrical parts holder cover. Make sure the cover is on
properly and no wires or sealing ring is being pinched by the cover.
9. Connect the spark plug wires.
DT35 and DT40

Step 4 2. Disconnect the spark plug wires.

3. Disconnect the COi unit/ignition coil leads. To install:
5. Install the ignition coils in the electric parts holder. Make sure the retain-
.,..The ignition coil and CDI unit are integrated into one assembly.
ing bolts are secure.
4. Remove the elastic band and lift the COi unit/ignition coil from the elec- 6. Connect the ignition coil leads to the COi unit. Make sure all the connec-
tric parts holder. tions are tight and free of corrosion.
To install: 7. Install the cover on the electric parts holder.
5. Set the COi unit/ignition coil assembly into the electric parts holder and 8. Install the spark plug wires.
secure it with the elastic band. 9. Install the engine cover.
6. Connect the COi unit/ignition coil leads. Make sure all connections are
tight and free of corrosion. DT75 and DT85
7. Connect the spark plug wires.
DT55 and DT65 2. Disconnect the spark plug wires.
• See accompanying illustrations 3. Open the electric parts holder and disconnect the ignition coil leads from
the CDI unit.
1. Remove the engine cover. 4. Unbolt the ignition coils and remove them from the electric parts holder.
2. Disconnect the spark plug wires. To install:
3. Open the electric parts holder and disconnect the ignition coil leads from 5. Install the ignition coils in the electric parts holder. Make sure the retain-
the COi unit. ing bolts are secure.
4. Unbolt the ignition coils and remove them from the electric parts holder. 6. Connect the ignition coil leads to the CDI unit. Make sure all the connec-
tions are tight and free of corrosion.
7. Install the cover on the electric parts holder.
®
05005G60
Step 3
DT90 and DT100

3. Open the electric parts holder on the front of the engine and disconnect
1. Magneto ground lead wire the ignition coil leads from the COi unit.
2. Low oil warning unit 4. Unbolt the ignition coils and remove them from the electric parts holder.
3. COi unit ground lead wire To install:
4. Fuse case assy. (battery) 5. Install the ignition coils in the electric parts holder. Make sure the retain-
5. Fuse case ass. (rectifier)
6. Connect the ignition coil leads to the COi unit. Make sure all the connec-
6. Rectifier assy. tions are tight and free of corrosion.
7. COi unit 7. Install the cover on the electric parts holder.
8. Wiring harness ground lead wire 8. Install the spark plug wires.
9. Ignition coil no. 3 9. Install the engine cover.
10. Ignition coil no. 2
11. Ignition coil no. 1 DT115 and DT140
12. Ignition coil ground lead wire
05005G59
3. Open the electric parts holder on the side of the engine and disconnect
Step 3 the ignition coil leads from the wiring harness leading to the COi unit.

4. Unbolt the ignition coils and remove them from the electric parts Main switches, engine stop switches, and the like are usually connected
holder. on the wire in between the CD! box and the ignition coil. When the main
To install: switch or stop switch is turned to the <b>OFF<ib> position, the switch is
5. Install the ignition coils in the electric parts holder. Make sure all closed. This closed switch short-circuits the charge coil current to ground
ground connections are in place and the retaining bolts are tight. rather than sending it through the CD! box. With no charge coil current
6. Connect the ignition coil leads to the CD! unit. Make sure all the through the CD! box, there is no spark and the engine stops or, if the engine
connections are tight and free of corrosion. is not running, no spark is produced.
8. Install the spark plug wires. TESTING
The unit may remain installed on the powerhead, or it may be removed for
DT150, DT175, DT200 and DT 225 testing. In either case, the testing procedures are identical.
Measure the continuity between the CD! unit terminals. If the any of the
1. Remove the engine cover. readings are not within specifications, the CD! unit must be replaced.
3. Open the electric parts holder on the front of the engine and DT2 and DT2.2
disconnect the ignition coil leads from the wiring harness leading to the COi
unit. • See accompanying illustrations
4. Unbolt the ignition coils and remove them from the electric parts The DT2 model uses a combined CD! unit/ignition coil.
holder. 1. Using a multi-meter, measure the resistance in the primary
To install: (core-blue/red wire: 0.8-1.2 ohms) and the secondary (core-plug cap: 7-10
5. Install the ignition coils in the electric parts holder. Make sure all kilo-ohms)
ground connections are in place and the retaining bolts are tight.
6. Connect the ignition coil leads to the CD! unit. Make sure all the
connections are tight and free of corrosion.
CDI Unit
®
In its simplest form, a CDI ignition is composed of the following elements:
• Magneto
• Pulser coil 1. Tester
• Charge, or source coil 2. Plug cap
• Igniter (CD!) box
• Ignition coil
• Spark plug Step 1
Other components such as main switches, stop switches, or computer
systems may be included, though, these items are not necessary for basic
CD! operation. DT4 and DTSY
To understand basic CD! operation, it is important to understand the basic
theory of induction. Induction theory states that if we move a magnet • See accompanying illustrations
(magnetic field) past a coil of wire (or the coil by the magnet), AC current will
be generated in the coil. 1. Obtain a Suzuki CD! tester (09930-99810) and test cord
The amount of current produced depends on several factors: (09930-40113).
• How fast the magnet moves past the coil 2. Before using the tester, be sure to select the proper voltage range on the
• The size of the magnet (strength)
• How close the magnet is to the coil
6
• Number of turns of wire and the size of the windings
The current produced in the charge coil goes to the CD! box. On the way
5
in, it is converted to DC current by a diode. This DC current is stored in the
capacitor located inside the box. As the charge coil produces current, the
capacitor stores it.
At a specific time in the magneto's revolution, the magnets go past the
pulser coil. The pulser coil is smaller than the charge coil so it has less
current output. The current from the pulser also goes into the CD! box. This
current signals the CD! box when to fire the capacitor (the pulser may be
called a trigger coil for obvious reasons). The current from the capacitor
flows out to the ignition coil and spark plug. The pulser acts much like the
points in older ignitions systems.
When the pulser signal reaches the CD! box, all the electricity stored in
the capacitor is released at once. This current flows through the ignition coil's
primary windings.
The ignition coil is a step-up transformer. It turns the relatively low voltage 1. Power light
entering the primary windings into high voltage at the secondary windings. 2. Fuse (2 amp.)
This occurs due to a phenomena known as induction. 3. AC source
4. Test !ead connector
The high voltage generated in the secondary windings leaves the ignition 5. Test button
coil and goes to the spark plug. The spark in turn ignites the air-fuel charge 6. CD! indicator light
in the combustion chamber. 7. COi test cord
Once the complete cycle has occurred, the spinning magneto immediately
starts the process over again. Step 1

3. Connect the COi test cord to the tester.
4. Connect the A/C cord to a power outlet.
5. Connect the CD! tester, COi test cord and CD! unit as illustrated.
~when checking the ignition coil assembly with a plug cap left
detached, insert the spark plug wire directly into the tester without
using the attachment "A".
**WARNING
Failure to connect this ground lead "2" wire may cause an electric
05005G64 shock upon touching the tester.
Step 3
Turn the main switch "3" of the tester to the ON position. Turning the switch
"4" to the "COi TEST" side, check if a spark occurs across the needles in the
voltage selector (1 OOv, 117v, 220v and 240v). If the selector socket is not set at indicator window "5". If the spark occurs, it means that the COi unit is function-
the proper voltage range, remove the fuse and pull out the voltage selector and ing normally. If there is no spark indicated, the CD! unit is not operating nor-
reinsert into the unit so that the proper voltage scale is visible in the cutaway. mally and will need to be replaced.
3. Disconnect the CD! unit leads and install the test leads in their place.
4. Connect the COi unit to test lead to the tester. DT9.9, DT15, DT25 and DT30
5. Plug the tester into a power outlet.
6. Push the "Test" button. • See Figure 24
• Both the power light and the COi indicator light should come on. This 1. Obtain a CD! tester (09930-99830) and CD! test cord
indicates that the CD! unit is functioning correctly. (DT9.9/15:09930-8891 O; DT25/30: 09930-89630).
• If the power light is ON and the CD! indicator light is OFF, the CD! unit • ON: Meter reading should be 1OOk ohms or less
is not functioning correctly and needs to be replaced. • OFF: Meter reading should be more than 100k ohms
• If both lights are OFF, check the fuse (replace if blown) and the A/C • CON: The meter pointer swings slightly and immediately return to the
power source. original position. Watch the meter carefully. If you have failed to see the pointer
moving, wait for about 10 minutes and repeat the test.
DT6 and OTB
1. Obtain a Suzuki CD! tester (09930-99830) and test cord (09930-89812).
e lead of tester
2. Make sure the correct voltage range is chosen on the tester "1 ". Blue/
Green Black H1 Hi
Red
Green ~~ ON OFF OFF OFF

~
0
~
Black
II CON "'~ OFF OFF OFF
-0
"'
.!!! Blue/
Red
ON ON
'""I~ OFF OFF
83
H1 OFF OFF OFF
~ 2soon
Hi OFF OFF OFF 2soon
~ 05005G66
Fig. 24 Use the CDI unit test chart to determine the condition of the
CDI unit
CHECK BY INDICATOR LAMP

• See Figure 25
1. Before using the tester first be sure to select the proper voltage range on
the voltage selector "1 ". (1 DOV, 117V, 220V and 240V)
2. Connect the COi test cord to the tester.
3. Connect the A/C power cord to a power outlet.
4. Connect the CD! test cord to the CD! unit lead wire as follows: (check
each cylinder individually) .
• DT9.9/15: No.1 cylinder: orange, Connectors, black; No.2 cylinder:
gray, Connectors, black
• DT25/30: No1 cylinder: orange, connectors; No.2 cylinder: blue, con-
nectors; No.3 cylinder: gray, connectors
5. Turn the main switch "2" of the tester to the ON position.
6. Turn the test switch "3" to the "LAMP TEST" side. Make sure the COi
indicator lamp "4" comes ON.
05005G65
7. Turning the switch "3" to the "CD! TEST" side, check if the lamp "4"
comes on. If the lamp is ON, the CD! unit is good. If the lamp is OFF, the CD!
Step 5 unit is bad and needs to be replaced.

CD! UNIT
05005G67 05005G68
Fig. 25 Connect the CDI test cord to the CDI unit as illustrated Fig. 26 Connect the CDI test cord to the CDI unit as illustrated
CHECKING BY SPARK DT35 and DT40

t See Figure 26 USING THE SUZUKI POCKET TESTER
1. Before using the tester first be sure to select the proper voltage range on t See Figure 27
the voltage selector "1 ". (100V, 117V, 220V and 240V)
2. Connect the CDI test cord to the tester. 1. Use the CDI unit test chart to determine the condition of the CDI unit.
3. Connect the A/C power cord to a power outlet. • ON: Meter reading should be 1OOk ohms or less.
4. Connect the connectors "2" of the CDI test cord to the CDI unit lead • OFF: Meter reading should be more than 100k ohms.
wires as illustrated. • CON: Meter swings once and returns immediately.
5. Inserting attachment "A" into the tester, connect each ignition coil assem-
bly as illustrated.
- lead of tester
~When checking the ignition coil assembly with a plug cap left
~
detached, insert the spark plug wire of the ignition coil assembly White/ Blue/
Green Black Blue Pink
red red
directly into the tester without using the attachment "A".
6. Connect the black lead wire "3" of the ignition coil assembly to the
ground lead wire "4" of the tester to the black lead wire "5" of the CDI unit.
Green
~ ON ON OFF OFF ON
I~
~ White/
t; red
ON ON OFF OFF ON
**WARNING .'!!
0
'O
~"'
Black ON ON
~ OFF OFF ON
shock upon touching the tester.
~ OFF
Blue/
+
red
ON ON ON ON
7. Connect the lead wire "6" of the ignition coil assembly to the same color
lead wire of the CDI unit.
Blue ON ON ON OFF '~ ON
• DT9.9/15:No.1 orange; No.2 gray
• DT25/30: No.1 orange; No.2 blue; No.3 gray
Pink ON ON ON OFF OFF
I~
8. Turning the main switch "7" of the tester to the ON position. Turning the 05005G69
switch "8'' to the "CDI TEST" position, check if aspark occurs across the needles in
Fig. 27 Use the CDI unit test chart to determine the condition of the
the indicator window "9". If the spark occurs, the CDI unit is functioning correctly. If
there is no spark, the CD/ unit is not functioning and will need to be replaced. CDI unit

,..Set the meter to the Rx 100 range. After checking CON, allow some
lime before checking the reading.
USING THE SUZUKI CO/ TESTER (09930-99810)

• See Figure 28
1. Before using the tester, make sure to set the tester to the proper voltage
range (1 DOV, 117V, 220V and 240V). II the selector is not set at the proper volt-
age range, remove the fuse and pull out the voltage selector and reinsert into
unit so that the proper voltage scale is visible in the cutaway.
2. Connect the CDI unit to the test cord and the test cord to the CDI tester.
3. Connect the A/C cord to a power source.
4. Push the "TEST" button.
• Both the power light and COi indicator light should come on. This
indicates that the CDI unit is functioning properly.
• II the power light is ON and the COi indicator light is OFF, the COi unit
is not working properly and need to be replaced.
• II both the lights on the COi tester are out, check to see ii the tester
unit fuse is blown, and ii so find the cause and then replace the fuse. Also
check the A/C power source going to the tester.
Q)
Power light
COi unit
@Fuse (2 amp.)
@AC source 05005G71
@)
Test lead connector Fig. 29 Connect the CDI test cord to the CDI unit lead wires as illus-
® Test button trated
@ COi indicator light
05005G70
CHECKING BY SPARK
Fig. 28 Make sure to check that it set to the proper voltage range on
the voltage selector • See Figure 30
1. Before using the tester, make sure the tester is set on the proper voltage
DT55 and DT65 range (100V, 117V, 220V and 240V).
2. Connect the CDI test cord tot he tester.
• See Figure 29 3. Connect the A/C power cord to an electrical outlet.
1. Obtain a COi tester (09930-99830) and test cord (09930-89480) 4. Connect the COi test cord to the COi unit lead wires as illustrated.
5. Connect the ground lead wire "2" of the tester to the black lead wire "3"
CHECK BY INDICATOR LAMP of the COi unit
1. Before using the tester, make sure the tester is set on the proper voltage
range (1 DOV, 117V, 220V AND 240V). **CAUTION
2. Connect the COi test cord tot he tester. Failure to connect this ground lead wire "2" may cause an electric
3. Connect the A/C power cord to an electrical outlet. shock upon touching the tester.
4. Turn ON the main switch "2" on the tester.
5. Turn the test switch "3" to the "LAMP TEST" position. Make sure the COi 6. Inserting attachment "A" into the checker, connect each ignition coil
indicator lamp "4" comes on then. assembly as illustrated in the illustration.
6. Turn the switch "3" to the "COi TEST" position, then check ii the lamp
"4" comes on. ,..When checking the ignition coil assembly with a plug cap left
• ON: the COi unit is functioning properly detached, insert the spark plug wire directly into the checker without
• OFF: the COi unit is not functioning properly and will need to be using the attachment "A".
replaced. 7. Turning ON the main power switch of the tester. II a spark occurs

Tube
COi UNIT
COi unit
05005G73
05005G72 Fig. 31 Connect the CDI test cord to the CDI unit lead wires as illus-
Fig. 30 Connect the CDI test cord to the CDI unit lead wires as illustrated
trated
**WARNING
across the needles in the indicator window "5" the COi unit is operating nor-
mally. Failure to connect the ground wires may cause an electric shock
8. If there is no spark in the window, the COi unit is not operating properly upon touching the tester.
and will need to be replaced.
DT75 and DT85 ,..When checking the ignition coil with the spark plug cap removed,
insert the high tension cord of the ignition coil directly into the checker
• See Figure 31 without using the attachment "A".
Testing the COi unit with the COi tester. 6. Individually connect the cylinder circuits to be checked.
l Obtain a COi tester (09930-99830) and test cord (09930-89521 ). 7. Turn the tester main switch "2" ON.
2. Before using the tester, make sure the tester is set on the proper voltage 8. Turn the tester switch "3" to the "COi TEST" position. Check for spark in
range (1 OOV, 117V, 220V or 240V). the "spark indicator" window. A continuous spark will mean that the circuit
3. Connect the COi test cord to the tester. being tested is performing normally.
4. Connect the A/C power cord to an electrical outlet 9. If there is no spark indicated, check the tester fuse and the power supply.
If these are operational, then there is a failure in the COi unit and it will need to
**WARNING be replaced.
Make sure the tester main switch "2" is OFF before connecting the DT90 and DT100
power supply or test leads.
Test the COi peak voltage output using a Stevens C0-77 peak voltage tester.
5. Connect the COi test cord to the COi unit lead wires as illustrated (check 1. Remove all spark plugs to eliminate variables at cranking speed.
each cylinder separately). 2. Use a 12-volt, 70AH fully charged battery.

3. Crank the engine using the electric starter for no more than 20 seconds CHECK BY SPARK
at a time.
4. CDI peak voltage should measure 102 volts or over at 300 rpm, and 121 • See Figure 33
volts at 500 rpm. 1. Connect the CDI unit lead, CDI test cord and ignition coil lead as illustrated.
2. Connect the ground lead wire "2" of the tester to the black lead wire "3"
DT115 and DT140 of the CDI unit.
The CD/ unit can be checked using either a Stevens CD-77 peak voltage
tester or a Suzuki CDI tester (09930-99830) and CDI test cord (09930-99410).
**CAUTION
CHECK BY INDICATOR LAMP
shock upon touching the tester.
• See Figure 32
3. Inserting the attachment "A" into the tester, connect each ignition coil
1. Before using the CDI tester, make sure the tester is set at the proper volt- assembly as illustrated in the illustration.
age for your location.
2. Connect the CDI test cord to the tester. ...when checking the ignition coil assembly with a plug cap left
3. Plug the tester into a power outlet. detached, insert the high tension cord of the ignition coil assembly
4. Connect the CD/ test cord to the CDI unit lead wires as illustrated. directly into the tester without using the attachment "A".
5. Turn ON the main power switch "2". 4. Turn the main power switch "4" of the checker to the ON position and
6. Turn the test switch "2" of the tester to the "LAMP TEST" position. Make check for a spark between the needles in the spark indicator window "5".
sure the CDI indicator lamp "4" comes ON then. 5. If a spark occurs, the CDI unit is functioning properly. If there is no
7. Turn the switch "3" to the "CDI TEST" position, now check to see if the spark, the unit is not working and will need to be replaced.
lamp "4" comes ON. To check voltage on the EFI equipped models, check the ECU using a
8. If the lamp is on, the CD/ unit is functioning correctly. If the lamp does Stevens Model CD-77 peak voltage tester and test cord.
not come on, check the tester fuse and power supply. If both are working, then 6. Remove all the spark plugs to eliminate variables at cranking speed.
the CDI unit is not working and will need to be replaced. 7. Install the 6-pin connector between the CD-77and the ECU.
05005G75 05005G76
Fig. 32 Connect the COi test cord to the COi unit lead wires as illus- Fig. 33 Connect the COi test cord to the CDI unit lead wires as illus-
trated trated

8. Connect each of the ECU leads to the positive tester probe and To install:
ground the negative test probe. 7. When installing the COi/ignition coil unit, measure the clearance
9. Crank the engine using the electric starter. DO NOT crank the engine between the flywheel magneto and the ignition unit.
for more than 20 seconds at a time. • Clearance should measure 0.016 in. (0.4 mm).
10. Peak voltage measured at the CD-77 should be 104 volts or over.
Make each measurement at least three times and if the voltage is too low, DT4 and DTSY
the ECU will need to be replaced.
DT150, DT175, DT200 and DT225 2. Disconnect the spark plug lead.
3. Disconnect the CD! leads and remove the retaining bolt.
Check the ECU/CDI using a Stevens Model CD-77 peak voltage tester. 4. Remove the CD! unit.
1. Remove all the spark plugs to eliminate variables at cranking speed. To install:
2. Connect each of the ECU leads to the positive tester probe and 5. Install the CD! unit. Make sure that the ground wire is connected and
ground the negative test probe. the retaining bolt is tightened.
3. Crank the engine using the electric starter. DO NOT crank the engine 6. Connect the CD! unit leads making sure they are tight and corrosion
for more than 20 seconds at a time. free.
4. Peak voltage measured at the CD-77 should be 120 volts or over. 7. Connect the spark plug wire.
Make each measurement at least three times and if the voltage is too low, 8. Install the engine cover.
the ECU will need to be replaced.
DT6 and OTB
The CD! unit and ignition coil are integrated into one unit. Removal and
DT2 and DT2.2 installation are covered in the ignition coil section.
• See Figure 34 DT9.9 and DT15
1. Remove the engine cover. The CD! unit and ignition coil are integrated into one unit. Removal and
2. With the fuel petcock in the closed position (marked "S"), remove the installation are covered in the ignition coil section.
fuel hose from the petcock.
3. Unbolt the fuel tank and remove it from the engine. DT25 and DT30
4. Disconnect the spark plug wire.
5. Disconnect the CD! unit lead. The removal and installation of the CDI unit is covered in the ignition coil
6. Unbolt the CD! unit and remove. section.
COi unit
Fig. 34 Unbolt the CDI unit and remove

DT35 and DT40
1. The CDI unit and ignition coils are integrated into one unit. The removal
and installation of the CDI unit is covered in the ignition coil section.
DT55 and DT65

3. Open the electric parts holder.
4. Disconnect the CD/ unit leads.
5. Remove the elastic bands and remove the CDI unit from the electric
parts holder.
To install:
6. Install the CDI unit in the electric parts holder. Make sure the elastic
bands are secure.
7. Connect the CDI unit leads. Make sure all the connections are tight and
free of corrosion.
05005P17
05005P37
Step 5
DT75 and DT85

3. Open the electric parts holder and disconnect the CDI unit from the igni-
tion coil leads.
4. Release the elastic bands or unscrew the bolts holding the CDI unit in
place and remove the CDI unit from the electrical parts holder
To install:
5. Install the ignition coils in the electric parts holder. Make sure the retain-
6. Connect all the wire leads to the CDI unit. Make sure all the connections
are tight and free of corrosion.
DT90 and DT100

• See Figure 35
05005P07 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
Step 3 2. Remove the engine cover.

Ground terminal nut Bolt
Rectifier/Regulator nut
Parts holder
Rectifier/Regulator
Rectifier/Regulator bolt
Cooling water sensor ( L)
Clamp
COi/Rectifier ground
Water sensor lead wire
lead wire
Engine temp. lead wire
Cooling water sensor (R)
Cooling water sensor

lead clamp
CD! unit nut
CD! unit bolt
----;-~R~o-u-te the CD! lead wire through
the R/H sides of the ignition coils
No. 1 and No. 3
Spark plug cap
Clamp
Oil warning
Reset switch lead wire
Clip High-tension lead clamp
High-tension lead
clamp Wiring harness
Securely clamp the connector so it does

not interfere with cover sealing.
05005G74
Fig. 35 Open the electrical parts holder on the front of the engine
3. Open the electrical parts holder on the front of the engine. The COi unit
is mounted behind the ignition coils.
4. Loosen the ignition coil mounting bolts and move them out of the way.
5. Disconnect the COi wire leads.
6. Unbolt the COi unit and remove it from the electric parts holder.
To install:
7. Install the COi unit into the electrical parts holder. Make sure all connec-
tions are tight and free of corrosion. Also make sure all ground connections are
made tight.
8. Install the ignition coils-.
9. Replace the electric parts holder cover.
11. Connect the negative battery cable.
DT115 and DT140

3. Open the electrical parts holder on the side of the engine to access the
COi unit.
4. The same procedure is used to access the ECU on the fuel injected
models.
5. Disconnect the ECU/CDI wire leads and grounds.
6. Loosen the retaining screws and remove the unit from the electrical
parts holder.
To install:
7. Install the ECU/CDI in the electrical parts holder. Make sure all ground 05005G76
points are tight, clean and free of corrosion. This is especially important on the
EFI equipped engines. Fig. 36 Open the electrical parts holder on the side of the engine to
8. Reconnect the ECU/CDI leads. Again, make sure all connections are access the CDI unit
tight and free of corrosion.

9. Use wire ties to bind together the wiring harnesses. 8. Install the ignition cover.
10. Install the electrical parts holder cover. 9. Install the engine cover.
11. Install the engine cover. 10. Attach the negative battery cable.
12. Connect the battery negative cable.
DT150, DT175, DT200 and DT225 Rectifier

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. DESCRIPTION & OPERATION
3. The CDI unit is mounted behind the ignition coils on the front of the
engine. The rectifier consists of a series of diodes or one-way electrical valves. It rec-
4. Disconnect the ignition coil leads and remove the entire ignition coil tifies or corrects the alternating current (AC) produced within the windings to
assembly as a unit. charge the direct current (DC) battery.
5. Disconnect the leads and remove the CDI unit from the back of the igni-
tion coil assembly. TESTING
To install:
6. Install the CDI unit onto the back of the ignition coil assembly. 1. The unit may remain installed on the powerhead, or it may be removed
7. Install the ignition coil assembly onto the engine and connect the CDI for testing. In either case, the testing procedures are identical.
unit and ignition coil wire leads. 2. Disconnect the red, white, yellow and black rectifier leads.
A CAUTION
This ground point is most important for ECU system.
After wiping off any dirt using a cloth dipped with thin-
ner, tighten bolt, two ground wires of ECU and ignition
coil ground wire together.
NOTE:
Fix wires with tube.
NOTE:
Route wires outside this
circle zone.
NOTE:
Clamp wires without
batterly cable.
Battery cable
NOTE:
Tighten bolt and
ground wire together.
Clamp
NOTE: Connector holder

Tighten bolt and
ground wires together.
NOTE:
Position white tape
on harness as shown.
05005G77
Fig. 37 The same procedure is used to access the ECU on the fuel injected models

3. Connect a test light between the yellow and white leads and then reverse nator produces Voltage is maintained at about 13.5-15 volts. During high
the test light leads. The light should light up when tested in one direction and engine speeds and low current demands, the regulator will adjust the voltage of
not the other. the alternator field to lower the alternator output voltage. Conversely, when the
4. Test the red and white, black and red, and yellow and black rectifier leads. engine is idling and the current demands may be high, the regulator will
5. If the test light does not light as described in any one of the diode direc- increase field voltage, increasing the output of the alternator.
tions, the rectifier must be replaced.
TESTING
1. Make sure that the battery is fully charged.
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Remove the engine cover.
2. Disconnect the rectifier or voltage regulator/rectifier connectors. 3. Connect a tachometer according to the manufacturers instructions.
3. Remove the fastener attaching the unit to the engine or electrical compo- 4. Start the engine and let it warm up to normal operating temperature.
nent and remove the unit. 5. Connect a voltmeter across the battery terminals.
4. If so equipped, remove the ground lead and disconnect it from the pow- 6. Slowly increase engine speed to approximately 5,000 rpm. Note the volt-
erhead. meter reading, if it is not 14-15 volts, the voltage regulator must be replaced.
To install:
5. Install the rectifier or voltage regulator/rectifier onto the powerhead or REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
electrical component.
6. Connect all leads and make sure all connections are tight and free of cor- 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
rosion. 2. Disconnect the voltage regulator connections.
7. Connect the negative battery cable. 3. Remove fasteners holding the voltage regulator to the powerhead or elec-
trical component and remove the regulator.
Regulator 4. If equipped, remove the ground wire and fastener.
To install:
5. Install the regulator onto the powerhead or electrical component and
DESCRIPTION & OPERATION tighten the fastener(s).
6. If equipped, reattach the ground wire and fastener.
The voltage regulator controls the alternators field voltage by grounding one 7. Connect the regulator leads, making sure that they are all tight and free of
end of the field windings very rapidly. The frequency varies according to current corrosion.
demand the more the field is grounded, the more voltage and current the alter- 8. Connect the negative battery cable
ELECTRONIC IGNITION
caution system is activated, the "REV LIMIT" lamp will light up when the engine
Description And Operation speed is above 2750 rpm. The system can be reset by reducing engine speed
The fuel injected engines use an electronic ignition system which, when below 2,500 rpm for one-second.
combined with the fuel injection system, becomes an integrated electronic
engine management system that improves fuel consumption, performance and OIL LEVEL
exhaust emissions.
The ignition timing control system controls the ignition timing by first deter- If the oil level switch is turned on for 10-seconds, engine speed will auto-
mining the basic ignition timing based on an engine speed signal sent by the matically be reduced to 3,000 rpm. While the caution system is activated, the
pulser coil and the intake manifold vacuum signal sent by the MAP sensor. buzzer will sound and the red "OIL LEVEL" lamp will light up. The "REV LIMIT"
The ignition timing control system, with inputs from the Throttle Position lamp will also light when the engine speed is above 2,750 rpm. This system can
Sensor (TPS), the Engine Temperature Compensation Sensor (ECT), and the be reset to normal operation when the oil level switch is turned off (oil tank is
Suction Air Temperature Sensor (IAT), compensates the base timing for opti- refilled) and engine speed is reduced below 2,500 rpm.
mum ignition timing. Only engine speed limit control of this caution system can be cancelled for
emergency use by pushing the reset switch. This status can be reset by stop-
Warning Systems ping the engine or by resetting the system to normal operation as described
above.
OVER REVOLUTION OIL FLOW
• See Figure 38 If the oil flow sensor is kept on for 2-seconds, engine speed will automati-
Once engine speed reaches 6,100 rpm and remains over 5,900 rpm for 10- cally be reduced to 3,000 rpm. While the caution system is activated, the buzzer
seconds, engine speed will automatically be reduced to 3,000 rpm. While the will sound and the "OIL" lamp will light up. The "REV LIMIT" lamp will also
light up when the engine speed is above 2,750 rpm.
The system can be reset to normal operation when the oil flow sensor is
turned off and engine speed is reduced below 2,500 rpm.
G) 1. "Check engine" lamp OVERHEAT

2. "Oil" lamp
3. "Red oil level" lamp Engine speed is reduced to 2,000 rpm when the engine temperature reaches
149°F (65°C) or the engine temperature rising rate exceeds the level preset in
....++--1+--® 4. "Rev limit" lamp the system. While the caution system is activated, the buzzer will sound and the
5. "Temp" lamp "TEMP" lamp will light up. The "REV LIMIT" lamp will also light up when the
® engine speed is above 1,750 rpm.
The system can be reset when the engine temperature drops lower than
05005G79 140°F (60°C) and engine speed is reduced below 1,500 rpm.
Fig. 38 Typical Suzuki monitor gauge with warning lamps

BATTERY VOLTAGE While the caution system is activated, the buzzer will sound and the "CHECK
ENGINE" lamp will light The "REV LIMIT" lamp will also light up when the
Engine speed is reduced to either 2,000 or 3,000 rpm when the system engine speed is above either 1,750 or 2,750 rpm. The system can be reset by
detects low battery voltage which is preset by engine speed. (Example: 8 volts not using any electrical equipment which consumes high electric energy such
@2,500 rpm, 9.8 volts@ 5,500 rpm). as the power tilt and trim system, hydraulic jack plate, etc. and engine speed is
reduced to idle for one second.
CHARGING CIRCUIT
Description and Operation THREE-PHASE CHARGING SYSTEM
The voltage regulator controls the alternator's field voltage by grounding one Three-phase systems have two more coils in the stator and one more wire
end of the field windings very rapidly. The frequency varies according to current than single-phase charging systems. They create higher amperage output than
demand. The more the field is grounded, the more voltage and current the alter- single-phase in nearly the same space.
nator produces. Voltage is maintained at about 13.5-15 volts. During high
engine speeds and low current demands, the regulator will adjust the voltage of •If you do not have a solid grasp of single-phase charging systems,
the alternator field to lower the alternator output voltage. please read the description and operation for single-phase systems
before continuing.
SINGLE PHASE CHARGING SYSTEM AC current is generated identically in both three-phase and single-phase
systems. These charging systems produce AC (alternating current) by moving
The single-phase charging system found on inline engines provides basic magnets past a fixed set of coils. Since a battery cannot be charged by AC, the
battery maintenance. Single-phase, full wave systems like these are found on a AC produced by the lighting coils is rectified or changed into DC (direct cur-
variety of products. Many outboard engines, water vehicles, motorcycles, golf rent). The rate at which the battery receives this rectified current is controlled by
cars and snowmobiles use similar systems. the regulator.
This charging system produces electricity by moving a magnet past a fixed The two additional lighting coils found in a three-phase charging system add
coil. Alternating current is produced by this method. Since a battery cannot be complexity to circuit tracing and troubleshooting. Some systems also incorpo-
charged by AC (alternating current), the AC current produced by the lighting rate a battery isolator. These additional components can make these systems
coil is rectified or changed into DC (direct current) to charge the battery. intimidating.
To control the charging rate an additional device called a regulator is used. When attempting to troubleshoot these systems, apply a divide and conquer
When the battery voltage reaches approximately 14.6 volts the regulator sends method to demystify this system. Once you have separated the components and
the excess current to ground. This prevents the battery from overcharging and circuitry into digestible blocks the system will be much easier to understand.
boiling away the electrolyte. The charging system consists of the following components:
The charging system consists of the following components: • A flywheel containing magnets
• A flywheel containing magnets • The stator assembly, consisting of three individual lighting coils tied
• The lighting coil or alternator coil together in a "Y" configuration
• The battery, fuse assembly and wiring • The battery, fuse assemblies and wiring
• A regulator/rectifier • A battery isolator and wiring, if so equipped
The lighting coil is usually a bright exposed copper wire with a lacquer-type Servicing this system requires a consistent approach using a reliable check-
coating. Lighting coils are built in with the ignition charge coils on some models. list. If you are not systematic you may forget to check a critical component.
If the charge coil or lighting coil fails the whole stator assembly must be replaced.
The flywheel contains the magnets. The number of magnets determines the PRECAUTIONS
number of poles. Each magnet has two poles, so a 4-pole system has two mag-
nets. You need to know the number of poles in order to set the tachometer cor- To prevent damage to the on-board computer, alternator and regulator, the
rectly. following precautionary measures must be taken when working with the electri-
Servicing charging systems is not difficult if you follow a few basic rules. cal system: ·
Always start by verifying the problem. If the complaint is that the battery will not • Wear safety glasses when working on or near the battery.
stay charged do not automatically assume that the charging system is at fault. • Don't wear a watch with a metal band when servicing the battery. Serious
Something as simple as an accessory that draws current with the key off will burns can result if the band completes the circuit between the positive battery
convince anyone they have a bad charging system. Another culprit is the battery. terminal and ground.
Remember to clean and service your battery regularly. Battery abuse is the num- • Be absolutely sure of the polarity of a booster battery before making con-
ber one charging system problem. nections. Connect the cables positive-to-positive, and negative-to-negative.
The regulator/rectifier is the brains of the charging system. This assembly Connect positive cables first, and then make the last connection to ground on
controls current flow in the charging system. If battery voltage is below 14.6 the body of the booster vehicle so that arcing cannot ignite hydrogen gas that
volts the regulator sends the available current from the rectifier to the battery. If may have accumulated near the battery. Even momentary connection of a
the battery is fully charged (about 15 volts) the regulator diverts most of the booster battery with the polarity reversed will damage alternator diodes.
current from the rectifier back to the lighting coil through ground. • Never ground the alternator or generator output or battery terminal. Be
Do not expect the regulator/rectifier to send current to a fully charged battery. cautious when using metal tools around a battery to avoid creating a short cir-
You may find that you must pull down the battery voltage below 12.5 volts to cuit between the terminals.
test charging system output. Running the power trim and tilt will reduce the bat- • Never ground the field circuit between the alternator and regulator.
tery voltage. Even a pair of 12 volt sealed beam lamps hooked to the battery will • Never run an alternator or generator without load unless the field circuit is
reduce the battery voltage quickly. disconnected.
In the charging system the regulator/rectifier is the most complex item to • Never attempt to polarize an alternator.
troubleshoot. You can avoid Troubleshooting the regulator/rectifier by checking • When installing a battery, make sure that the positive and negative cables
around it. Check the battery and charge or replace it as needed. Check the AC are not reversed.
voltage output of the lighting coil. If AC voltage is low check the charge coil for • When jump-starting the boat, be sure that like terminals are connected.
proper resistance and insulation to ground. If these check OK measure the This also applies to using a battery charger. Reversed polarity will burn out the
resistance of the Black wire from the rectifier/regulator to ground and for proper alternator and regulator in a matter of seconds.
voltage output on the Red lead coming from the rectifier/regulator going to the • Never operate the alternator with the battery disconnected or on an other-
battery. If all the above check within specification replace the rectifier/regulator wise uncontrolled open circuit.
and verify the repair by performing a charge rate test. This same check around • Do not short across or ground any alternator or regulator terminals.
method is used on other components like the COi unit. • Do not try to polarize the alternator.

• Do not apply full battery voltage to the field (brown) connector. be checked directly or involve time-consuming test procedures. This is the
• Always disconnect the battery ground cable before disconnecting the same method suggested for checking the capacitor discharge ignition box.
alternator lead.
• Always disconnect the battery (negative cable first) when charging it. OVERCHARGING
• Never subject the alternator to excessive heat or dampness. If you are
steam cleaning the engine, cover the alternator. There is really only one cause for this type of failure, the regulator is not
• Never use arc-welding equipment on the car with the alternator connected. working. It isn't controlling charging output to the battery. Since there is no
repair of this part, replace it.
Troubleshooting the Charging System
UNDERCHARGING
The charging system should be inspected if:
• A Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) is set relating to the charging system If there is an undercharge condition after running the DC amperage check at
• The charging system warning light is illuminated the fuse assembly, then disconnect the stator coupling from the harness and
• The voltmeter on the instrument panel indicates improper charging (either perform AC voltage checks between the three stator leads. Check between two
high or low) voltage stator leads at a time. There are three volt checks done to cover al I possible
• The battery is overcharged (electrolyte level is low and/or boiling out) combinations.
• The battery is undercharged (insufficient power to crank the starter) At idle, there is typically 14+ volts on each test. It can be higher if the idle is
The starting point for all charging system problems begins with the inspec- higher. All three readings should be equal, within a volt or two. Stator shorts to
tion of the battery, related wiring and the alternator drive belt (if equipped). The ground can be checked by doing a voltage test between one stator lead and
battery must be in good condition and fully charged before system testing. If a ground, engine running. There should be roughly half the normal stator voltage
Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) is set, diagnose and repair the cause of the check reading.
trouble code first. If the readings are all within specification, the stator is working correctly. If
If equipped, the charging system warning light will illuminate if the charging any or all readings are below normal, turn the engine OFF and check the stator
voltage is either too high or too low. The warning light should light when the windings using an ohmmeter. An isolated continuity check and a short to ground
key is turned to the ON position as a bulb check. When voltage is produced due check should be done. If the stator is bad, replace it since it can't be repaired.
to the engine starting, the light should go out. A good sign of voltage that is too
high are lights that burn out and/or burn very brightly. Over-charging can also ~The charging system is an integral part of the ignition system. For
cause damage to the battery and electronic circuits. information on service procedures, please refer to the "Ignition" section
A thorough, systematic approach to troubleshooting will pay big rewards. of this manual.
Build your troubleshooting check list with the most likely offenders at the top.
Do not be tempted to throw parts at a problem without systematically Trou- Alternator (Stator)
bleshooting the system first.
Do a visual check of the battery, wiring and fuses. Are there any new addi-
tions to the wiring? An excellent clue might be, "Everything was working OK TESTING
until I added that live well pump." With a comment like this you would know
where to check Ii rst. ~Before testing, make sure all connections and mounting bolls are
The regulator/rectifier assembly is the brains of the charging system. The clean and light. Many charging system problems are related to loose
regulator controls current flow in the charging system. If battery voltage is and corroded terminals or bad grounds. Don't overlook the engine
below about 14.6 volts the regulator sends the available current to the battery. If ground connection lo the body, or the tension of the alternator drive
the battery is fully charged (about 14.5 to 15 volts) the regulator diverts the cur- belt.
rent/amps to ground.
Do not expect the regulator to send current to a fully charged battery. Check Voltage Drop Test
the battery for a possible draw with the key off. This draw may be the cumulative
effect of several radio and/or clock memories. If these accessories are wired to 1. Make sure the battery is in good condition and fully charged.
the cranking battery then a complaint of charging system failure may really be 2. Perform a voltage drop test of the positive side of the circuit as follows:
excessive draw. Draw over about 25 milliamps should arouse your suspicions. a. Start the engine and allow it to reach normal operating temperature.
The fuel management gauge memory and speedometer clock draw about 10 b. Turn the headlamps, heater blower motor and interior lights on.
milliamps each. Remember that a milliamp is 1/1000 of an amp. Check battery c. Bring the engine to about 2,500 rpm and hold it there.
condition thoroughly because it is the #1 culprit in charging system failures. d. Connect the negative(-) voltmeter lead directly to the battery positive
Do not forget to check thro-ugh the fuses. It can be embarrassing to overlook (+)terminal.
a blown fuse. e. Touch the positive voltmeter lead directly to the alternator B+ output
You must pull the battery voltage down below 12.5 volts to test charging stud, not the nut. The meter should read no higher than about 0.5 volts. If it
system output. Running the power trim and tilt will reduce the battery voltage. A does, then there is higher than normal resistance between the positive side of
load bank or even a pair of 12-volt sealed-beam headlamps hooked to the bat- the battery and the B+ output at the alternator.
tery can also be used to reduce the battery voltage. f. Move the positive(+) meter lead to the nut and compare the voltage
Once the battery's good condition is verified and it has been reduced to reading with the previous measurement. If the voltage reading drops sub-
below 12.5 volts you can test further. stantially, then there is resistance between the stud and the nut.
Install an ammeter to check actual amperage output. Several tool manufactur- ~The theory is to keep moving closer to the battery termina I one con-
ers produce a shunt adapter that will attach to your multi-meter and allow you to nection al a lime in order to find the area of high resistance (bad con-
read the amp output. Verify that the system is delivering sufficient amperage. nection).
Too much amperage and a battery that goes dry very quickly indicates that the
rectifier/regulator should be replaced. 3. Perform a voltage drop test of the negative side of the circuit as follows:
If the system does not put out enough amperage, then test the lighting coil. a. Start the engine and allow it to reach normal operating temperature.
Isolate the coil and test for correct resistance and short to ground. b. Turn the headlamps, heater blower motor and interior lights on.
During these test procedures the regulator/rectifier has not been bench c. Bring the engine to about 2,500 rpm and hold it there.
checked. Usually it is advisable to avoid troubleshooting the regulator/rectifier d. Connect the negative(-) voltmeter lead directly to the negative battery
directly. The procedures listed so far have focused on checking around the recti- terminal.
fier/regulator. If you verify that all other systems stator are good then what is left e. Touch the positive(+) voltmeter lead directly to the alternator case or
in the system to cause the verified problem? The process of elimination has ground connection. The meter should read no higher than about 0.3 volts. If
declared the rectifier/regulator bad. it does, then there is higher than normal resistance between the battery
This check around method is also useful on other components that can not ground terminal and the alternator ground.

f. Move the positive(+) meter lead to the alternator mounting bracket, if Do not consider a battery of less than 70- amp/hour or 100-minute reserve
the voltage reading drops substantially then you know that there is a bad capacity. If in doubt as to how large the boat requires, make a liberal estimate
electrical connection between the alternator and the mounting bracket. and then purchase the one with the next higher amp rating. Outboards equipped
with an on board computer, should be equipped with a battery of at least 100 to
,..The theory is to keep moving closer to the battery terminal one con-
105 amp/hour capacity.
nection at a time in order to find the area of high resistance (bad con-
nection). MARINE BATTERIES
Current Output Test
• See Figure 40
• See Figure 39
Because marine batteries are required to perform under much more rigorous
1. Perform a current output test as follows: conditions than automotive batteries, they are constructed differently than those
,..The current output test requires the use of a volt/amp digital multime- used in automobiles or trucks. Therefore, a marine battery should always be the
ter with battery load control and an inductive amperage pick-up. Follow No. 1 unit for the boat and other types of batteries used only in an emergency.
the manufacturer's instructions on the use of the equipment. Marine batteries have a much heavier exterior case to withstand the violent
pounding and shocks imposed on it as the boat moves through rough water and
a. Start the engine and allow it to reach normal operating temperature. in extremely tight turns. The plates are thicker and each plate is securely anchored
b. Turn off all electrical accessories. within the battery case to ensure extended life. The caps are spill proof to prevent
c. Connect the digital multimeter to the battery terminals and cable acid from spilling into the bilges when the boat heels to one side in a tight turn, or
according to the instructions. is moving through rough water. Because of these features, the marine battery will
d. Bring the engine to about 2,500 rpm and hold it there. recover from a low charge condition and give satisfactory service over a much
e. Apply a load to the charging system with the rheostat on the digital longer period of time than any type intended for automotive use.
multimeter. Do not let the voltage drop below 12 volts.
f. The alternator should deliver to within 10% of the rated output. If the **WARNING
amperage is not within 10% and all other components test good, replace the
alternator. Never use a Maintenance-free battery with an outboard engine that
is not voltage regulated. The charging system will continues to
charge as long as the engine is running and it is possible that the
FULL FIELD electrolyte could boil out if periodic checks of the cell electrolyte
TESTER level are not done.
LEAD (BLUI
VOLTMETER
NEGATIVE
LEAD (BLKI
NEGATIVE TESTER
CABLE (BLKI
POSITIVE TESTER
CABLE (REDI
B TERMINAL WIRE
8852BG09
Fig. 39 VAT-40 charging system digital multimeter. Many similar

04709P01
digital multimeters are available that perform equally as well
Fig. 40 A fully charged battery, filled to the proper level with elec·
trolyte, is the heart of the ignition and electrical systems. Engine
Battery cranking and efficient performance of electrical items depend on a
full rated battery
The battery is one of the most important parts of the electrical system. In
addition to providing electrical power to start the engine, it also provides power
for operation of the running lights, radio, and electrical accessories. BATTERY CONSTRUCTION
Because of its job and the consequences (failure to perform in an emer-
gency), the best advice is to purchase a well-known brand, with an extended
warranty period, from a reputable dealer. • See Figure 41
The usual warranty covers a pro-rated replacement policy, which means the A battery consists of a number of positive and negative plates immersed in a
purchaser would be entitled to a consideration for the time left on the warranty solution of diluted sulfuric acid. The plates contain dissimilar active materials
period if the battery should prove defective before its time. and are kept apart by separators. The plates are grouped into elements. Plate

OVERFILLING Cold cranking performance is measured by cooling a fully charged battery to
0°F (-17°C) and then testing it for 30 seconds to determine the maximum cur-
rent flow. In this manner the cold cranking amp rating is the number of amps
available to be drawn from the battery before the voltage drops below 7.2 volts.
The illustration depicts the amount of power in watts available from a battery
at different temperatures and the amount of power in watts required of the
engine at the same temperature. It becomes quite obvious-the colder the cli-
mate, the more necessary for the battery to be fully charged.
Reserve capacity of a battery is considered the length of time, in minutes, at
80°F (27°C), a 25 amp current can be maintained before the voltage drops
below 10.5 volts. This test is intended to provide an approximation of how long
the engine, including electrical accessories, could operate satisfactorily if the
stator assembly or lighting coil did not produce sufficient current. A typical rat-
ing is 100 minutes.
If possible, the new battery should have a power rating equal to or higher
than the unit it is replacing.
CRACKED LOW BATTERY LOCATION

CELL COVER ELECTROLYTE
04709601
Every battery installed in a boat must be secured in a well protected, venti-
Fig. 41 A visual inspection of the battery should be made each time lated area. If the battery area lacks adequate ventilation, hydrogen gas, which is
the boat is used. Such a quick check may reveal a potential problem given off during charging, is very explosive. This is especially true if the gas is
in its early stages. A dead battery in a busy waterway or far from concentrated and confined.
assistance could have serious consequences
BATTERY SERVICE
straps on top of each element connect all of the positive plates and all of the • See Figures 43, 44 and 45
negative plates into groups.
The battery is divided into cells holding a number of the elements apart from Batteries require periodic servicing and a definite maintenance program will
the others. The entire arrangement is contained within a hard plastic case. The ensure extended life. If the battery should test satisfactorily but still fails to per-
top is a one-piece cover and contains the filler caps for each cell. The terminal form properly, one of four problems could be the cause.
posts protrude through the top where the battery connections for the boat are 1. An accessory might have accidentally been left on overnight or for a long
made. Each of the cells is connected to its neighbor in a positive-to-negative period during the day. Such an oversight would result in a discharged battery.
manner with a heavy strap called the cell connector. 2. Using more electrical power than the stator assembly or lighting coil can
replace would result in an undercharged condition.
BATTERY RATINGS 3. A defect in the charging system. A faulty stator assembly or lighting coil,
defective rectifier, or high resistance somewhere in the system could cause the
• See Figure 42 battery to become undercharged.
4. Failure to maintain the battery in good order. This might include a low
Three different methods are used to measure and indicate battery electrical level of electrolyte in the cells, loose or dirty cable connections at the battery
capacity: terminals or possibly an excessively dirty battery top.
• Amp/hour rating
• Cold cranking performance
• Reserve capacity
The amp/hour rating of a battery refers to the battery's ability to provide a set
amount of amps for a given amount of time under test conditions at a constant
temperature. Therefore, if the battery is capable of supplying 4 amps of current
for 20 consecutive hours, the battery is rated as an 80 amp/hour battery. The
amp/hour rating is useful for some service operations, such as slow charging or
battery testing.
POWER (WATTS) AVAILABLE POWER (WATTS) REQUIRED
80° 100%
100%e
83%e 32° 165%
ENERGIZERS
RATED AT 0°Fe····
61% - ----0° • -250%-@
••
45%e -20°~ ~~8 Fig. 43 Explosive hydrogen gas is normally released from the cells
04709P02
under a wide range of circumstances. This battery exploded when

04709602 the gas ignited from someone smoking in the area when the caps
Fig. 42 Comparison of battery efficiency and engine demands at var- were removed. Such an explosion could also be caused by a spark
ious temperatures from the battery terminals

CORRECTION
1.175
0
1.200
tr
l.225
1.250
1.275
1.300
04709P04
04709G03
Fig. 44 A two part battery cable cleaning tool will do an excellent
job of cleaning the inside of the cable connectors Fig. 46 A check of the electrolyte in the battery should be on the
maintenance schedule for any boat
04709P05
Fig. 45 The second part of the battery cable cleaning tool contains a
brush for cleaning the battery terminals
04709P03
Electrolyte Level
Fig. 47 Testing the electrolyte's specific gravity using a temperature
• See Figures 46 and 47 corrected hydrometer
The most common procedure for checking the electrolyte level in a battery is
to remove the cell caps and visually observe the level in the cells. The bottom of During hot weather and periods of heavy use, the electrolyte level should be
each cell has a split vent which will cause the surface of the electrolyte to checked more often than during normal operation. Add distilled water to bring
appear distorted when it makes contact. When the distortion first appears at the the level of electrolyte in each cell to the proper level. Take care not to overfill,
bottom of the split vent, the electrolyte level is correct. because adding an excessive amount of water will cause loss of electrolyte and

any loss will result in poor performance, short battery life, and will contribute BATTERY TERMINALS
quickly to corrosion.
•Never add electrolyte from another battery. Use only distilled water. At least once a season, the battery terminals and cable clamps should be
cleaned. Loosen the clamps and remove the cables, negative cable first. On bat-
Battery Testing teries with top mounted posts, the use of a puller specially made for this pur-
pose is recommended. These are inexpensive and available in most parts stores.
A hydrometer is a device to measure the percentage of sulfuric acid in the Clean the cable clamps and the battery terminal with a wire brush, until all
battery electrolyte in terms of specific gravity. When the condition of the battery corrosion, grease, etc., is removed and the metal is shiny. It is especially impor-
drops from fully charged to discharged, the acid leaves the solution and enters tant to clean the inside of the clamp thoroughly (a wire brush is useful here),
the plates, causing the specific gravity of the electrolyte to drop. since a small deposit of foreign material or oxidation there will prevent a sound
It may not be common knowledge, but hydrometer floats are calibrated for electrical connection and inhibit either starting or charging. It is also a good
use at 80°F (27°C). If the hydrometer is used at any other temperature, hotter or idea to apply some dielectric grease to the terminal, as this will aid in the pre-
colder, a correction factor must be applied. vention of corrosion.
•Remember, a liquid will expand if it is heated and will contract if After the clamps and terminals are clean, reinstall the cables, negative cable
cooled. Such expansion and contraction will cause a definite change in last, do not hammer the clamps onto battery posts. Tighten the clamps securely,
the specific gravity of the liquid, in this case the electrolyte. but do not distort them. Give the clamps and terminals athin external coating of
grease after installation, to retard corrosion.
A quality hydrometer will have a thermometer/temperature correction table in Check the cables at the same time that the terminals are cleaned. If the insu-
the lower portion, as illustrated in the accompanying illustration. By knowing lation is cracked or broken, or ii its end is frayed, that cable should be replaced
the air temperature around the battery and from the table, a correction factor with a new one of the same length and gauge.
may be applied to the specific gravity reading of the hydrometer float. In this
manner, an accurate determination may be made as to the condition of the bat- SAFETY PRECAUTIONS
tery.
When using a hydrometer, pay careful attention to the following points:
1. Never attempt to take a reading immediately after adding water to the Always follow these safety precautions when charging or handling a battery:
battery. Allow at least 114 hour of charging at a high rate to thoroughly mix the • Wear eye protection when working around batteries. Batteries contain cor-
electrolyte with the new water. This time will also allow for the necessary gases rosive acid and produce explosive gas a byproduct of their operation. Acid on
to be created. the skin should be neutralized with a solution of baking soda and water made
2. Always be sure the hydrometer is clean inside and out as a precaution into a paste. In case acid contacts the eyes, flush with clear water and seek
against contaminating the electrolyte. medical attention immediately.
3. If a thermometer is an integral part of the hydrometer, draw liquid into it • Avoid flame or sparks that could ignite the hydrogen gas produced by the
several times to ensure the correct temperature before taking a reading. battery and cause an explosion. Connection and disconnection of cables to bat-
4. Be sure to hold the hydrometer vertically and suck up liquid only until tery terminals is one of the most common causes of sparks.
the float is free and floating. • Always turn a battery charger OFF, before connecting or disconnecting
5. Always hold the hydrometer at eye level and take the reading at the sur- the leads. When connecting the leads, connect the positive lead first, then the
face of the liquid with the float free and floating. negative lead, to avoid sparks.
6. Disregard the slight curvature appearing where the liquid rises against • When lifting a battery, use a battery carrier or lift at opposite corners of
the float stem. This phenomenon is due to surface tension. the base.
7. Do not drop any of the battery fluid on the boat or on your clothing, • Ensure there is good ventilation in a room where the battery is being
because it is extremely caustic. Use water and baking soda to neutralize any bat- charged.
tery liquid that does accidentally drop. • Do not attempt to charge or load-test a maintenance-free battery when the
8. After drawing electrolyte from the battery cell until the float is barely charge indicator dot is indicating insufficient electrolyte.
free, note the level of the liquid inside the hydrometer. If the level is within the • Disconnect the negative battery cable if the battery is to remain in the boat
Green band range for all cells, the condition of the battery is satisfactory. If the during the charging process.
level is within the white band for all cells, the battery is in fair condition. • Be sure the ignition switch is OFFbefore connecting or turning the
9. If the level is within the Green or white band for all cells except one, charger ON. Sudden power surges can destroy electronic components.
which registers in the red, the cell is shorted internally. No amount of charging • Use proper adapters to connect charger leads to batteries with non-con-
will bring the battery back to satisfactory condition. ventional terminals.
10. If the level in all cells is about the same, even ii it falls in the Red band,
the battery may be recharged and returned to service. If the level fails to rise BATTERY CHARGERS
above the Red band after charging, the only solution is to replace the battery.
Before using any battery charger, consult the manufacturer's instructions for
Battery Cleaning its use. Battery chargers are electrical devices that change Alternating Current
(AC) to a lower voltage of Direct Current (DC) that can be used to charge a
Dirt and corrosion should be cleaned from the battery as soon as it is dis- marine battery. There are two types of battery chargers-manual and automatic.
covered. Any accumulation of acid film or dirt will permit current to flow A manual battery charger must be physically disconnected when the battery
between the terminals. Such a current flow will drain the battery over a period of has come to a full charge. If not, the battery can be overcharged, and possibly
time. fail. Excess charging current at the end of the charging cycle will heat the elec-
Clean the exterior of the battery with a solution of diluted ammonia or a paste trolyte, resulting in loss of water and active material, substantially reducing bat-
made from baking soda to neutralize any acid which may be present. Flush the tery life.
cleaning solution off with clean water.
•As a rule, on manual chargers, when the ammeter on the charger reg-
•Take care to prevent any of the neutralizing solution from entering the isters half the rated amperage of the charger, the battery is fully
cells, by keeping the caps light. charged. This can vary, and ii is recommended to use a hydrometer to
A poor contact at the terminals will add resistance to the charging circuit. accurately measure state of charge.
This resistance will cause the voltage regulator to register a fully charged bat- Automatic battery chargers have an important advantage-they can be left
tery, and thus cut down on the stator assembly or lighting coil output adding to connected (for instance, overnight) without the possibility of overcharging the
the low battery charge problem. battery. Automatic chargers are equipped with a sensing device to allow the bat-
Scrape the battery posts clean with a suitable tool or with a stiff wire brush. tery charge to taper off to near zero as the battery becomes fully charged. When
Clean the inside of the cable clamps to be sure they do not cause any resistance charging a low or completely discharged battery, the meter will read close to full
in the circuit. rated output. If only partially discharged, the initial reading may be less than full

rated output, as the charger responds to the condition of the battery. As the bat- Before you disconnect the cable(s), first turn the ignition to the OFFposition.
tery continues to charge, the sensing device monitors the state of charge and This will prevent a draw on the battery which could cause arcing. When the bat-
reduces the charging rate. As the rate of charge tapers to zero amps, the charger tery cable(s) are reconnected (negative cable last), be sure to check all electrical
will continue to supply a few milliamps of current-just enough to maintain a accessories are all working correctly.
charged condition.
BATTERY STORAGE
BATTERY CABLES
If the boat is to be laid up for the winter or for more than afew weeks, special
Battery cables don't go bad very often, but like anything else, they can wear attention must be given to the battery to prevent complete discharge or possible
out. If the cables on your boat are cracked, frayed or broken, they should be damage to the terminals and wiring. Before putting the boat in storage, disconnect
replaced. and remove the batteries. Clean them thoroughly of any dirt or corrosion, and then
When working on any electrical component, it is always a good idea to discharge them to full specific gravity reading. After they are fully charged, store them in
connect the negative(-) battery cable. This will prevent potential damage to a clean cool dry place where they will not be damaged or knocked over, preferably
many sensitive electrical components on acouple blocks of wood. Storing the battery up oft the deck, will permit air to
Always replace the battery cables with one of the same length, or you will circulate freely around and under the battery and will help to prevent condensation.
increase resistance and possibly cause hard starting. Smear the battery posts Never store the battery with anything on top of it or cover the battery in such
with a light film of dielectric grease, or a battery terminal protectant spray once a manner as to prevent air from circulating around the filler caps. All batteries,
you've installed the new cables. If you replace the cables one at a time, you both new and old, will discharge during periods of storage, more so if they are
won't mix them up. hot than if they remain cool. Therefore, the electrolyte level and the specific
gravity should be checked at regular intervals. A drop in the specific gravity
~Any time you disconnect the battery cables, ii is recommended that
reading is cause to charge them back to a full reading.
you disconnect the negative(·) battery cable first. This will prevent you
In cold climates, care should be exercised in selecting the battery storage area.
from accidentally grounding the positive (+)terminal when disconnect-
A fully-charged battery will freeze at about 60 degrees below zero. A discharged
ing ii, thereby preventing damage to the electrical system.
battery, almost dead, will have ice forming at about 19 degrees above zero.
STARTING CIRCUIT
A neutral safety switch is installed into the circuit to permit operation of the
Description and Operation starter motor only if the shift control lever is in neutral. This switch is a safety
• See Figure 48 device to prevent accidental engine start when the engine is in gear.
The starter motor is a series wound electric motor which draws a heavy cur-
In the early days, all outboard engines were started by simply pulling on a rent from the battery. It is designed to be used only for short periods of time to
rope wound around the flywheel. As time passed and owners were reluctant to crank the engine for starting. To prevent overheating the motor, cranking should
use muscle power, it was necessary to replace the rope starter with some form not be continued for more than 30-seconds without allowing the motor to cool
of power cranking system. Today, many small engines are still started by pulling for at least three minutes. Actually, this time can be spent in making preliminary
on a rope, but others have a powered starter motor installed. checks to determine why the engine fails to start.
The system utilized to replace the rope method was an electric starter motor Power is transmitted from the starter motor to the powerhead flywheel
coupled with a mechanical gear mesh between the starter motor and the power- through a Bendix drive. This drive has a pinion gear mounted on screw threads.
head flywheel, similar to the method used to crank an automobile engine. When the motor is operated, the pinion gear moves upward and meshes with
As the name implies, the sole purpose of the starter motor circuit is to con- the teeth on the flywheel ring gear.
trol operation of the starter motor to crank the powerhead until the engine is When the powerhead starts, the pinion gear is driven faster than the shaft,
operating. The circuit includes a relay or magnetic switch to connect or discon- and as a result, it screws out of mesh with the flywheel. A rubber cushion is
nect the motor from the battery. The operator controls the switch with a key built into the Bendix drive to absorb the shock when the pinion meshes with the
switch. flywheel ring gear. The parts of the drive must be properly assembled for effi-
Fig. 48 A typical starting system converts electrical energy into mechanical energy to turn the engine. The components are: Battery, to provide
electricity to operate the starter; Ignition switch, to control the energizing of the starter relay or relay; Starter relay or relay, to make and break the
circuit between the battery and starter; Starter, to convert electrical energy into mechanical energy to rotate the engine; Starter drive gear, to
transmit the starter rotation to the engine flywheel

cient operation. II the drive is removed for cleaning, take care to assemble the current from the battery. It is designed to be used only for short periods of time
parts as illustrated in the accompanying illustrations in this section. II the screw to crank the engine for starting. To prevent overheating the motor, cranking
shaft assembly is reversed, it will strike the splines and the rubber cushion will should not be continued for more than 30-seconds without allowing the motor
not absorb the shock. to cool for at least three minutes. Actually, this time can be spent in making pre-
The sound of the motor during cranking is a good indication of whether the liminary checks to determine why the engine fails to start.
starter motor is operating properly or not. Naturally, temperature conditions will Power is transmitted from the cranking motor to the powerhead flywheel
affect the speed at which the starter motor is able to crank the engine. The speed through a Bendix drive. This drive has a pinion gear mounted on screw threads.
of cranking a cold engine will be much slower than when cranking a warm
engine. An experienced operator will learn to recognize the favorable sounds of
the powerhead cranking under various conditions.
Troubleshooting the Starting System

If the starter motor spins, but fails to crank the engine, the cause is usually a
corroded or gummy Bendix drive. The drive should be removed, cleaned, and
given an inspection.
1. Before wasting too much time troubleshooting the starter motor circuit,
the following checks should be made. Many times, the problem will be cor-
rected.
• Battery fully charged.
• Shilt control lever in neutral.
• Main 20-amp fuse Iocated at the base of the fuse cover is good (not
blown).
• All electrical connections clean and tight.
• Wiring in good condition, insulation not worn or frayed.
2. Starter motor cranks slowly or not at all.
• Faulty wiring connection
• Short-circuited lead wire 05005P04
• Shift control not engaging neutral (not activating neutral start
switch) Fig. 49 Typical location of the starter motor (DT55)
• Defective neutral start switch
• Starter motor not properly grounded
• Faulty contact point inside ignition switch
• Bad connections on negative battery cable to ground (at battery side
and engine side)
• Bad connections on positive battery cable to magnetic switch termi-
nal
• Open circuit in the coil of the magnetic switch (relay)
• Bad or run-down battery
• Excessively worn down starting motor brushes
• Burnt commutator in starting motor
• Brush spring tension slack
• Short circuit in starter motor armature
3. Starter motor keeps running.
• Melted contact plate inside the magnetic switch
• Poor ignition switch return action
4. Starter motor picks up speed, put pinion will not mesh with ring
gear.
• Worn down teeth on clutch pinion 1
• Worn down teeth on-flywheel ring gear
5. Two more areas may cause the powerhead to crank slowly even though
the starter motor circuit is in excellent condition
• A tight or frozen powerhead
• Water in the lower unit.
Starter Motor

As the name implies, the sole purpose of the cranking motor circuit is to
control operation of the cranking motor to crank the powerhead until the engine
is operating. The circuit includes a relay or magnetic switch to connect or dis-
connect the motor from the battery. The operator controls the switch with a key 1 . Motor assy, starting
switch. 2. Relay, starter
A neutral safety switch is installed into the circuit to permit operation of the 3. Bracket, starter
cranking motor only if the shift control lever is in neutral. This switch is a safety 05005G96
device to prevent accidental engine start when the engine is in gear.
The cranking motor is a series wound electric motor which draws a heavy Fig. 50 Typical starter motor and relay assembly

CD Bracket
® Brush holder cover assy.
@ Field coil case
©Brush(-)
@Brush(+)
@ Brush holder assy.
CD
<J) Ar ma tu re
® Pinion stopper set
®Pinion assy.
05005G97
Fig. 51 Typical 3-brush starter motor assembly
CD Bracket
® Pinion stopper set
@ Pinion assy.
@Armature
@Brush(+)
®Brush(-)
05005G98
Fig. 52 Typical 2-brush starter motor assembly

When the motor is operated, the pinion gear moves upward and meshes with
the teeth on the flywheel ring gear.
When the powerhead starts, the pinion gear is driven faster than the shaft,
and as a result, it screws out of mesh with the flywheel. A rubber cushion is
built into the Bendix drive to absorb the shock when the pinion meshes with the
flywheel ring gear. The parts of the drive must be properly assembled for effi-
cient operation. If the drive is removed for cleaning, take care to assemble the
parts as illustrated in the accompanying illustrations in this section. If the screw
shaft assembly is reversed, it will strike the splines and the rubber cushion will
not absorb the shock.
The sound of the motor during cranking is a good indication of whether the
cranking motor is operating properly or not. Naturally, temperature conditions
will affect the speed at which the cranking motor is able to crank the engine. The
speed of cranking a cold engine will be much slower than when cranking a
warm engine. An experienced operator will learn to recognize the favorable 05005G91
sounds of the powerhead cranking under various conditions.
Step 3
TESTING

1. Using a multimeter, see if there is any continuity between the commutator
and armature core. The tester will indicate infinite resistance if the insulation is
in good condition.
2. Using the tester, check for continuity between each pair adjacent commu-
tator segment. If discontinuity is noted at any part of the commutator, replace
the whole sub-assembly of the armature.
3. If the surface of the commutator is gummy or otherwise dirty, wipe it off
with a cloth dipped in kerosene. If the surface is coarse or in burnt, smooth it
with sandpaper. If the surface is grooved deeply, it may be necessary to
remove the grooved marks by turning the commutator in a lathe; such turning
is often successful in reconditioning the commutator if the extra stock neces-
sary for removal by cutting is available without reducing its diameter to the
limit.
05005G92
Step 4
05005G89
Step 1
05005G93
Step 5
4. Using a multimeter, check to be sure that the positive brush holder is

insulated from the negative brush holder. The tester should indicate an absence
of any continuity between any two brush holders of opposite polarity. If continu-
ity is indicated, replace the brush holder.
5. Check the length of each brush. If the brushes are worn down to the ser-
vice limit, replace them.

3. Disconnect the starter relay electrical relay lead at the bullet connector.
Step 2 Remove the ground wire.

05005G80
Step 1
05005P05
Step 4
05005G81
Step 2
05005P06
Step 7
4. Disconnect the battery and starter cables.

5. If equipped, remove the starter motor clamp.
6. Remove the mounting bolts holding the starter motor to the mounting
05005G82
bracket.
7. Remove the starter motor. Step 3
To install:
8. Install the starter motor onto the mounting bracket. Do not forget to
install the clamp if so equipped.
9. Install the mounting bolts and tighten snugly.
10. Connect the starter motor cables. Make sure al I connections are tight
and free of any corrosion.
12. Connect the negative battery cable
OVERHAUL
The following is a typical starter motor overhaul procedure. Some models
may vary slightly.
1. Remove the terminal nut and remove the motor cable.
2. Remove the two bolts from the bottom of the motor. 05005G83
3. Separate the brush holder cover assembly and the two brush springs. Step 4
4. Separate the armature from the field coil case.

05005G84
Step 5
05005G85 05005G88
Step 6 Step 9
5. Remove the screw and nut to remove the brushes.

6. Push down on the pinion stopper "A", remove the stopper ring "B" and
take oil the pinion.
To assemble:
Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, but the following steps need to be
addressed during assembly.
7. Apply water resistant grease to the metal seals and brush holder cover.
8. When setting a brush to each brush holder, be sure to place a brush
spring in position before installing the brush.
9. When installing the front cover and the holder cover in the field coil case,
align the mark "A" on the field coil case with the mark "B" in both covers. When
installing the holder cover, take care not to break the brush.
Starter Motor Relay Switch

05005G86
Step 7 DESCRIPTION & OPERATION
• See Figure 52
The job of the starter motor relay is to complete the circuit between the bat-
tery and starter motor. It does this by closing the starter circuit electromagneti-
cally, when activated by the key switch. This is a completely sealed switch,
which meets SAE standards for marine applications. DO NOT substitute an auto-
motive-type relay for this application. It is not sealed and gasoline fumes can be
ignited upon starting the powerhead. The relay consists of a coil winding,
plunger, return spring, contact disc, and lour externally mounted terminals. The
relay is installed in series with the positive battery cables mounted to the two
larger terminals. The smaller terminals connect to the neutral switch and
ground.
To activate the relay, the shill lever is placed in neutral, closing the neutral
switch. Electricity coming through the ignition switch goes into the relay coil
winding which creates a magnetic field. The electricity then goes on to ground
05005G87
in the powerhead. The magnetic field surrounds the plunger in the relay, which
Step 8 draws the disc contact into the two larger terminals. Upon contact of the termi-

05005G95
Step 2
for that particular model powerhead. Note that there are two circuits: the heavy
05005P01 amperage starter motor circuit, and the control circuit from the key switch and
neutral switch. When the key is turned, listen for a click from the relay. If a
Fig. 53 Typical starter motor relay switch location click is heard, the control circuit is operating normally. Then test for voltage at
the starter motor. If there is voltage at the starter motor, a reading of below 9
nals, the heavy amperage circuit to the starter motor is closed and activates the volts with no starter action indicates a bad starter or resistance in the circuit A
starter motor. When the key switch is released, the magnetic field is no longer reading at or near battery voltage indicates that the starter has an open circuit
supported and the magnetic field collapses. The return spring working on the inside.
plunger opens the disc contact, opening the circuit to the starter. If no click is heard at the relay, use a jumper wire to jump between the
When the armature plate is out of position or the shift lever is moved into battery terminal of the relay and the "S" terminal. If it now works, the prob-
forward or reverse gear, the neutral switch is placed in the open position and the lem is in the control circuit Using a multimeter, test for voltage at the
starter control circuit cannot be activated. This prevents the powerhead from neutral switch at the control (at both terminals). 11 there is no voltage, test at
starting while in gear. the key switch, with the key switch in the start position. Depending upon the
specific model, there may be a fuse between the battery and the ignition
TESTING switch.
1. To test the relay continuity, use a multimeter to check whether conti-
nuity exists between the two terminals of the relay with the battery con-
nected.
The relay is usually trouble free. If there are suspected problems with the 2. And when the battery is disconnected.
relay, first test the battery. Then look up the starter circuit in the wiring diagram

3. Disconnect the starter relay electrical lead at the bullet connector.
Remove the ground wire.
4. Disconnect the battery and starter cables.
5. Remove the starter relay.
To install:
6. Install the starter relay.
7. Connect the battery and starter cables.
8. Connect the starter relay electrical lead at the bullet connector. Install the
ground wire.
10. Connect the negative battery cable.
05005G94 11. Check the starting system for proper operation.
Step 1

IGNITION AND ELECTRICAL WIRING DIAGRAMS
The following diagrams represent the most popular models with the most
popular optional equipment
1988-96 DT2 and 1997 DT2.2 Wiring Diagram
Bl/R~Bl/R
IGNITER
SPARK PLUG
STOP SWITCH
WIRE COLOR
B . . . . . . . Black
Bl/R . . . . . Blue with Red tracer MAGNETO
1988-98 DT4 and 1999 and later DTSY Wiring Diagram
Engine Stop Switch

ON -+STOP
OFF-+ RUN
Magneto Bl ,
_____
I
l B/R Ignition Coil
( Or Or
I
I
I R
I
l
( CDI UNIT
I .__._.- I
I
I I I
I I I
I I W/R W/R
r----J I
I I
1 I B B
: :
:v lR B
r -----------.,
• I
rrl-,
~Li
1r~ii1
'i)i,'t
: Voltage I ty R; :R
L-----~-----~~
lt regulator : f f
Emergency Stop Switch
:
L-----~-----'
•B
:
:
I
I
,.-, :
!.1•
BIt ..-.- CAP ON -+RUN
I : :;., :
CAP OFF -+STOP
•..'-.: I ,' l ' '
- t' ~! "i
' . . ·t· ,'
Rectifier •..,,, Y-tube Receptacle
,w
I -- W r•-••" W -- .If./ W .r••"t
L.---{:;J----1--J-.;·-..*---t~~-----c->------f-rc==:: :c==~1-
r···· W
------- ---..,
.. ____ , • 1 • : I -•· Battery
r·-----y-t:i:~-----t~-----ebt'.:_;~ [:J-:.78-----, -~~- 12V
-~- R·tube Plug L_ ____ J
• • • • - · Optional

1990-98 DT4 and 1999-02 DTSY Wiring Diagram
1l:
MAGNETO
Bl/R >--0-t:SJ--O IGNITION
COi
II COIL
'' UNIT
l:
r ____ J' 'i W/R W/R----o = --i
I
Y: R'
:
B __...,...____
B - - - - o...._
rt, r+, ~
~l
Y·TUBE
•
11
l;a...: 81_ .L
=
-~
! l\' EMERGENCY STOP SWITCH
: CAP ON -+ RUN
W ? \ CAP OFF-+STOP
L---1 : R-TUBE
~::~ RECEPTACL~
a.:---"
r------- 1 f'ffiq
!
12V !.~'.
!
l
L/.•f
-r-
PLUG
30W ~lo.'
I
I :
L.-W---'
;
l
'L---------8-----J'
· · • - - - - OPTIONAL
MAGNETO
Bl/R
-0-c3J--O~IGNITllON
COi II COIL
UNIT
= -}
I
B
.,!..
EMERGENCY STOP SWITCH

CAPON-+RUN
CAP OFF-+STOP

1988 DT8 Wiring Diagram
CONDENSER
CHARGING COIL PULSER COIL I1
BATTERY
CHARGING COIL
W/G~W/GI ---·'
G~G ''
B/R ~B/R
B --c3I-- B
R -a :--- :~:
RIB ~R/B-
y ---a--- y
MAGNETO
Y-TUBE FUSE ZOA r-------------i

W ---l--Sl-~---l---
-- :
w ___ ! BATTERY-::~-
1ZV35AH -:;~
B ---l--Sl- B l--- B -----------------!
-- R-TUBE ___ ;
RECEPTACLE PLUG
STOP SWITCH
PUSH-? STOP
O EMERGENCY STOP SWITCH

CAP ON-?RUN
CAP OFF-7STOP
OIL LEVEL
INDICATOR
OIL LEVEL SWITCH B

REST O.ZL-ON
05005W04
1989-91 DT8 Wiring Diagram

CON:>ENSER
IGNITION COIL CHARGING COIL PULSER COIL I 1
i----------·--1
WIG - i E } - WIG rJ VOLTAGE
__GULA
'.• :, __RE _____T_OR
____:
:........ B ---·'
'
G -iE}- G RIY --f:B::: ~ ----------.,..
--- '
'1:
BIR - i E } - BIR
R -a ;,--- 8 .;.~
---(":;,• ..,.. .......................... .
......... ,'" i
B --c:3J-
RIB - i E } - RIB
B
l ~ y -a--- :f:
y __________ _!
1' RECTIFIER ;
i
""~ MAGNETO !
PULSER COIL fZ ,------ l
I
f................................................................................r=-~~---- W/R ---C?..-...]--- W/R ...............................!
fl
CD
cnmmm
I
I
:
!
·--- w
,......... B
_.~--;-
---L:--~
--
'[r=-. J:-.=-~1, l
__ _j--- B
1ZV35AH
-----------------!
-:;~·
!
l mt.
iiio..~~
CDCD
:::
STOP SWITCH
RECEPTACLE PLUG
B PUSH-+ STOP
0 EMERGENCY STOP SWITCH

CAP ON-+RUN
B CAP OFF-+STOP
OIL LEVEL
ll'l>ICATOR
OIL LEVEL SWITCH

REST O.ZL-ON
05005W4A

1988-02 DT6 and 1982-97 DT8 Wiring Diagram
Pulser coil
Lighting coil Condenser charging coil

Spark plug
Receptacle
....-;:~~k-----W/R-C3:r-W/R
® .-+-.......-----B/R--[3l-B/R
c::J-R/Y CDI
~4-----B----tE}-B
OPTION
r--------, i9-t>@CJ-R
UNIT
I Bl/R~-Bl/R
I B.J~ Bl/R~
I
I
I
w~©c:r-v
I Yellow tube
I
I .---------,
I
I
,------r..>@ l
I I
I I
I I
I I I
L--------J I Engine stop switch
I Emergency switch
I
I
L------------------------------------1
Yellow tube 1
w~w§w~w- l
. r v~e-W-s 1 J_ 1
LJ"·t
R
:
~ I
~--------------------------------------------------J
OPTION
1988-97 DT9.9 and DT15 Wiring Diagram
I~-- EMERGENCY STOP SWITCH

CAPON-RUN
CAP OFF - STOP
CHOKE
START
ON
OFF
. "
~" --------------+" ·==it~' ~ ·-.i

.o>. o. ~ !-\
'
J
BQ "
u
" a> REMOTE CONTROL BOX
j : -- tUSE20A
~:~~:~SWITCH ~Y/~~COT::~ELAY
BATTER~ *
L.! M-
I ACHO
E_T~R
HOUR
METER
VOLT
M~1:E_R_ _ _ _ __
OPT.
- llV
3
SAH
9
STARTINGMOTOR

1989-97 DT15C (Manual Start) Wiring Diagram
PULSER COIL #2
IGNITION COIL CONDENSER
-------- CHARGING
---- COIL
MAGNETO
COi UNIT
r----------.
I '
l BATTERY -f.-
l 12V 35AH -;:-
r--- w----------'
• I
!
_,1----8- -- ----------- -------'
'
RECEPTACLE PLUG
,,r--8---------------~ PUSH-STOP
fOiiflTI STOP SWITCH
EMERGENCY
STOP SWITCH
OIL LEVEL SWITCH
REST0.2 -ON .,r-8 CAPON-RUN
CAP OFF - STOP
OIL LEVEL INDICATOR
r-8 OSOOSW07
1989-97 DT15C (Electric Start) Wiring Diagram

IGNITION COIL
-- -------,
CONDENSER CHARGING COIL
----- ~i:!!~~QI!:_~~
BATTERY CHARGING COIL
MAGNETO
r --- fv-;,~;,;;,~--,
8
f-lREGULATORt 1
A ~A L.--------' ~
COi UNIT
--~-v~Y
-F.~W/R:?J
RECTIFIER e
PULSERCOIL_•1_../ ~W/R~AW'"~i
r1u:_1 s-VIGM ~'tT'li'1'i-:~::::-------1 ~0
r;:: n =·~:::'~·~
LI~~?
I
~ t STARTING TOR
•. L n ~:::.:. nnnu11
~ELAV t 12V3EiAH 1
/~~ ..... --- ..........\ __ --- - -- -..
:TACHOMETER:
\
',, _____ / t-----,!
.
~\ ~!"~· i• ,~-·------------~©~~~"'=--· I11
'f:1r
J."c;.:~ fl
0
r,-••-.:::_:_:_:_:_:_:_:
:::! !!
___- -_ :_- -_ ~_J j_J,'
,. 'ff
c::tt:l
i,
i
CHOKE SOLENOID
I
iii
I I,
!.••L•.. ··••·· ••••••• · ~L: .: ~:~· ; .; . j~:'.~ lJl;:~= =-=- =-~t l:~.N-~a : : ~=;~ ~ ;f~ ID EMfE;iR~GENcv
1
STOP SWITCH
CAPON - RUN
CAP OFF - STOP
OSOOSW08

1988 DT20 and DT25 (Manual Start) Wiring Diagram
PLUG SQCl<E T
r---,
IL.:1't- - - - - y - - -
I '
\ I
I c.:::al-- - - Y/A
t __ J
PLUG
;-----·w ---('-,/~~;1
l ~-1 :
BATTERY (llVI -_1.-
·rL ___ .J
r- B --{_,-,,,~:J:i
• In case of battery charging kit bemg mounted
-- -- ------optional
05005W11
IGNITION SWITCH
G --+--t------C::::J
'-------t-------------------+-----~----.~--Bl1R
'-------------------+------~---r---s,-----~
~---'----+---YIG-------~
B!IR
G TUBE
EMERGENCY STOP SWl·KH
PULL - ON !STOP!
---- -- - - .optional
BATTERY
(12V.35A.HI
$
8
STARTER MOTOR
05005W10

1989 DT25C and DT30C Wiring Diagram
... ,,,_~ MfTERLIGHT~WITCH
} _:_: :~- -1.:~ - .~:.:· :~~;!-;:.~,

·-·~·:·}-,,:.:·~
-·,•. :Q :.brrjlfJ:f>
!r,,.
U.-~·Or···tt:+ ...... _.a
RECTIFIER
- - - - - - - - Option
05005W12
fI 11
I~
aATTlllY
12VHAH
Nl.UTAAL IWITCH
N-ON F.11-0ff
-!-------' 1-,-
.__.. ~-:TAAL SWITCH §I ~

N-OH f.11.~ 1:.:te;:f-lf-t:ltH::fl,,.,._
'-•..a::J•O""f-•-«:>-- - =' w
IGHITIOfrflWlfCt<
05005W13
- - - - - - - - Option

II
~_,_I!:-'"· I H: ·.~.
- - - - - - -Option
.
fl
.
~j
::-t..···· -···
llik==~:::§~~~~~~§\~~I
~~~-~;-~·~~L------f"7i"ll
COOllNGWATlll&
,,,,,,.Optional parts OllW .. IUCINGafJllU

1988-89 DT35TC and DT40TC Wiring Diagram
---- MAGNETO
. .,~..ljh@=l l
~----
CAP ON-- RUN
CAP OFF --- STOP
1
~-i~ -~. RECTIFIER
COIUNIT I
1
.,.J
•
• ~· ~-f+- •
" J,
.n.
YELLOW TuBe FUSE f20A)
,, j,~
0
OVER HEAT SENSOR-,-_,rn~. i
~~ oN-101•coFF-eo•c Y\ I~!
Il
~ ~ J,
nj REyv
ST ARTER MOTOR
J. j-'--·-'·-·.:.,._·_~_=::::_J
1
OILLEVELSWITCH
~l
tt~
r:n:t
~N-ON
NEUTRAL swiTCH •• ---- _ -- ___ -- - -1t --r----1,J;
.____,,__--j----+--.j-+--i.--..j.--~
;~~·~-=~f~i~~·~-~;"l'"!F!,!R-!!OF!F!:::;i~J VOLT::e-:e~ut.TOR
G " ..,,.
L_J--_._-1.,-::~-;;·:r· • ··~· · ·A
SPEF.OOMETEA SENSOR L-----f--------==.. ~ t.ATTE~
REMOTE CONTROL
BOX !MORSE)
a..'.:~•'" J.Q ~ J, F.~::TING MOTOR
lrffi.'
l2J l .~ --~-1
!f.,. CHOKE SOLENOID
8
PTMOTOR
PT AELA,Y~
~
DOWN
.
05005W69
1988-89 DT35C and DT40C Wiring Diagram
Bl/A
SPARK PLUG
r
r
141
OIL LEVEL SWITCH
REST 0.5 L ~ON
OIL WARNING LAMP

REST 0.5 L ~ ON
~
•
~~
L~
~
81 Bl/A
r •
•
ENGINE STOP SWITCH [
ON - STOP OFF~ RU N
OrJ=~r-
Bl/A •11•-+----'
•
• ~· .-.\---a-
·- G-
CAPON ~RUN
CAP OFF~STOP
05005W70

1988-89 DT35CR and DT40CR Wiring Diagram
05005W71
1990-91 DT40CE Wiring Diagram

Oil LEVB.. SWITai
RE!T 0.5...._0N
r@l Oil FtOW
·--
ml. • .
SEHOORPOSITION- OFF
USUAL
. --~II
• a .~ ~
i!
r
r
I i PU.SER COIL
RECTIFIER
'---+----+-: ~. 1
Oil. WARNING LAW
REST 0.~1-0N
tEWTRAL
SWITCH
.~~
1 ~•
IGNITION ,-+-t-++-+-H·""'sL_l:~:f=§~~! ~§~~~~~~;d____:====2=-=:---=:---1---3--------- -- -------- --- ·-i~~~t_f} · :1.
1
·1
SWITCH ~
m •ii-----+-----·--------------------t-~
t-++-++-~,~Fl&i.o----t-----·· ------------------~
_L
-
T
BATTERY
llV 70AH
ST AR TING
M MOTOR
~
'-+-+-+-!................ I ,I;--•
·~·
EMAJUJEf'ilCY STOP SWITCH

CAP ON--Rl.N
CAP OFF-STOP
05005W72

1990-91 DT40CR Wiring Diagram
RECTIFIER
'-+--+-----!--: ~. 1
J_
-
T
BATTERY
1ZV lOAH
'}Ml
STARTING
MOTOR
,!;----•
- - - - - - OPTION
(;.)~11 Sfl£ED METER

SEHSOR
L •• "':"t'"-
·~
05005W73
1990-91 DT40TC Wiring Diagram
OVER HEAT
SENSOR
ON-101°C
OFF -ao 0 c
r
+SATTE~~
T ":J
12V
STARTING
MOWR
; 11-·
CHOKE SOLENOID
05005W74

1990-91 DT40C Wiring Diagram
SPARK PLUG
.r
.r
141
OIL LEVEL SWITCH
REST 0.5 L - ON
OIL WARNING LAMP

REST 0.5 L - ON
~ RECEPTACLE
8 ~~
.•.
ID-*-+---•·-------__,,_, 8!1A
'-+-----;~---·---------'
ENGINE STOP SWITCH

ON - STOP OFF •RUN
~ Bl!R - l : D = = = ; B l l R
icr-.~>--~~~~~-
G
~<
rT"JQ-• ~EMERGENCY
CAPON ~RUN
ST0'5W,TC"
CAPOFF~STOP
05005W75
1992-98 DT40C Wiring Diagram
811A
SPARK PLUG
.r RECTIFIER
141
OIL LEVEL SWITCH
REST 0.5 L - ON
~
RECEPTACLE
OIL WARNING LAMP 112V/30Wl
REST 0.5 L - ON
'
• ~~
. •.
ENGINE STOP SWITCH
ON - STOP OFF ~RUN
~~I~ ---(0===; lllR
. c___,.-+-------
- - - - - - OPTION
.,!,. J,
G
~<
rT"JQ-• ~EMERGENCY
CAPON ~RUN
STOP SW'TC"
CAP OFF·• STOP

05005W76

1992-98 DT40CE Wiring Diagram
~. . .~ ~ i!
,_....I i
- RECTIFIER
...
Oil WARNING LAAf'"
REST 0.51-0N
~..
HEWTRAL
SWITCH
N-ON
F.R- OFF
i
< !
11
IONI T!ON
SW ITCH ~! ." ~~~~~====::·=·········f]························
~
m . . 'j
.. I
-J_ BATTERY STARTING
~ T 1ZV 70AH M MOTOR
i ~ '" ~·
u ~. ~ .. .I I ' - - - - - · OPTION
EMARGE.NC'f STOP SWITCH

CAP ON--Rlf.I
CAP OFF-STOP
05005W77
1992-98 DT40CR Wiring Diagram
RECTIFIER
'-+-+-+--: ~' 1
. . . . . ~ -f~~~!f_} 8
~t
...1..
-
T lZV 70AH'j
BATTERY
M
STARTING
MOTOR
,!;---•
------OPTION
05005W78

1992-93 DT40TC Wiring Diagram
MAGNETO
~~'
1 ~,, ,~~1J
I
8
OVERHEAT
~~N~~~,ocf
Off-80°C
n· iiii:
qi
f. :!
!
1 R
~i.: nr·~~
~L n~
ii: i e
--1-- -- - ---
ID ID ):
L---- -- -•- --- -- -- ---
BAnE~~
-d-
T '2V ":J STAATINl3
MOTOR
.;, l 1--·
CHOKE SOLENOID
05005W79
1988 DT55C and DT65C (Australia) Wiring Diagram
,,---'\
· ' OTHER\
I A.llETERI
~ ~'\~~ .,,,/
Oll WAllNING RESET SWITCH
PUS>l··ON
!OLESl'E£0
ADJUSTMENT SWITCH
""'-- i~i
OOC ' " " . .nCH
05005W29

1988 DT55TC and DT65TC (Australia) Wiring Diagram
AECl1f1lA&
JHGULAIOA
-- --- --; ---.r--·--; _,

. --~ : :
L-----~..1 ~
-~·--:·.-~ :
~(Hl\UGtllSi'>tlCH:
~:~~~,-~6~ '
05005W30
1988 DT55C and DT65C (Except Australia) Wiring Diagram
OIL WARNING RESH S'lllTCH

l"USH - ON
STARTING
tr·~:v~
~ S M STARTING MOTOR
CHOKE SOLENOID BAnERY STARTING

12V 1GAH MOTOR RELAY
..... OPTION
05005W31

1988 DT55TC and DT65TC (Except Australia) Wiring Diagram
----------------- ----------------,
,..~::,o::~~,-:~:--1 i
OllWAANINORESETSVl'ITCH
PU~-0"1
05005W32
UtERGENCY i Jf' SWHCH

CAPON-RU ..
CAPOFf ·STO~
r
~~~~-~~""~~~
~,~·~;:~:· ~
05005W33

~:~~t~~WllCH {~;
CAP OFF-ON I
- ~}~!t;t.~~:.~~,-r:,,
if:~ -· :!~[:~~-~~~:~\~ __ )~-:--
'''' <UiJ ••. '"""' ·~::ii QIJ
l il 11=~~!111,!!~i
~~~~~;:::)!
... ~...
......... OPTION
u~~~~~~~~:.;._~_r*:PSWlfCH
05005W34
1990-91 DT55 and DT65 Wiring Diagram
-=:~=~~~
-[
~:;_-_--.
i
... ______
-=--- ··-···--.l'J
9~PUSH-ON
u
OIL ,,_ANING RESET SWITCH
----:-::~--"!"-=-- ~-
:

1992 DT55 and DT65 Wiring Diagram
MfT£A LIGHT SWITCH

{ii
[!~
CAPON-Off ~
--------~-~--
-- ----=..::---::==:::--~-- ---::=:-...=--==-:-:-==:::::_--==::·-==~---
~~:~--!~E:::j
7
··•--o:>--•·--~
i:~:1:: ~ ~
........ _,,,
dt~~-~;~:J . ~~TU-~E:
-'""'l!<F-m
DOWN """l __ jj !!
ii !!'~::~~J'
-~~~d·11 "H··~1
Rt:MOTE CONTML
eox
ity
I ! ~~: .·::.·.-,-~ ::
81-TUI!: ). : : '
·--v::
R- TUii
-~.-~;~·;Jjj I I
··Q·-'~:.~
05005W36
1990-91 DT55HTC Wiring Diagram
05005W37

05005W46
1988 DT75CR and DT85CR Wiring Diagram
. II
1
ti
..
:.........•
··········+:!
05005W47

1989 DT75CR and DT85CR Wiring Diagram
~~NGMUTIWITCH
I II
I ..
~:.
.l'.-o
05005W48
1989 DT75TC and DT85TC Wiring Diagram

...... :Option
Oll-IWlfllGflEs.t:T•WITCH MHEll llGHT SWITCH /!
----~, ~::~~~:~?Va( ~i~

Pt.1$}1-0N
NOTE: The tachometer and trim meter are standard

equipmemts for Australian version. / \------~'lf.''1-:]:C,,~
!;!; ~-'~'~~• 1L [;oo '°'°';~l

)!
!l·i!l li~~:-~t)J
j!l ~a.~.t
1
1P "' ~ ffi!ml
lnl r -~
il !~l~ /li~ : ~:·~= ~" 3;.-.:~·=,~:_=-~:.=L.~ =~1Mjf[~' >+-~cr~ ! fl~io"' IG"•w1 cH

..
1
:;ii
lfu''''~'3'3:'j:;::~°'''C:'·;:~o:,;::;0,c,c,dJj
.. ...
JHU,._____._·--~_..._.,_,,._.___ L~!!.~£7.
~··· _.,,.
05005W49

05005W50

llllUlllllGHT-!TCH ,',;:{
mM"'":~~ i!
i;ii!lil
:: 1: llllMOTleo<olfllOllOll
w&
T
~ ":::,~'.~::Jlii
c:::c __ o-,"
:•11
lltUTll.o\l . . UCM
OI •ON •.II ·OH
..
1 II
05005W51

PTTSW!TCH
"'ffif"'
9.·r~
,1, OVERHEAl$lNSOR
'2J CYLINOUITfM,SENSOR
~ UTlUIVCHARGJNGCOll
6 GEARCOUNHNGCOll
)Q, g~E:.~!k",,1,,,~ 8UllUI

11 NlUTA'""'·ICH
1989-91 DT90 and DTlOO Wiring Diagram

~•w'""ffl
·~
~NlUlRAlSWITCH
ttM!UTRAl-ON
La..
. h
FUS!l&A e~

1992-97 DT90 and 1992-00 DTlOO Wiring Diagram
WIRJ'. r.:mnA

COOLING WA.TEA SENSOR &
ENGINE TEMP SENSOR
:<jjb:~;_:Ig~~;:: :··-
!_;~0~~:'
....
"::
~~:
UP cU:fj:~::o.-~ L"'ifrUii~·-,:
DOWN ctI~l~-'5:~~·:_°;_ :jg::
PTT SWITCH
I
b
BATTERY 12Y 70AH
TR!M SENOOR ·-=--·

-G-CJt-G
TRIM SfNOOR
EMERGENCY
'-~~~~~~~~~~~-'b.n:!J.W~T~N
CAP OFF - STOP

1996-01 DT115 and DT140 Wiring Diagram U1
I
.......
en
·mt
PTT SWITCH Oil WARNING
~
RE'NiSET
SWITCH Oil FLOW SENSOR
qp~~
MAGNETO
0
G)
CYllNOER WALL ~---------------·
--J 9
z
~-=~~----R~R
:_ =-~--.o-.'··; !;:!!-_~ g~~, ~~~\!! ~~~~ ~~i~ ~m :·:.·~ FTi~l--l~::~
TEMP SENSOR~ []I '' !""Iii "' !I• • !! • ,---·••- ,
~-- 11. '61 O<l"VElSWOTCH o ..... .. ___ --1

W-#
-fC)-
V
I (ij:S: • _J ..f!!Cl t:: Cl I: I .----8-+" :: '""1
~ ""' ' ..... ). "~-· ".. """"''-"°'

AIRUMP. , ............ , :·:---...._,.--;:
rm·----=··J_._
•
-·· L - L__ SENSOR • 0 I \ ::
0
nr= 1~1-: :-=- =-=------8/0(~s-~m ~~4 \·<,lr~~ ·~&,
z
- ~.'".•: BIR i:t · - MOT~Rl
• .,••"R ,- - ..... 1. ~-,
,-·
~I~ :; - ·r-:•
)>
z
"ill;89JJ ''
-w1a wiR FW Rw _ .·: o--1 J t- :01 TRIM ' :• : J,

0
•IY" 11 I I ' •,- _. <H" "
~'
- ·~·-i;i ·~-- ~·
1r - •IV 1 J:ilV1 •IV'
111 REc""'R • """ 0
•oNmON 11 R w11-t"h-w11- I M REGULATOR , ,: ', / • : f.l
.. .. illl'===
1
'="--- ' AMQ
,"'1'!. i.'... ·-·· 'La::l--, !!
'• m
; : : " Go
I
r I :::·'J ~~ m
=
~-•w
w-(C}G<
.,
9
..---J{ ·=· w -~Piio:I

W=
·= or.-
1.!.
I
ll/R w-
G<W
lllR
•;;;iy
ENGINE
'""-
u•n
~
fUSE10A
,_,_,
I -f"'!"'""'1
FUSE2'A~
i4~J !2~RIG-
..
iO
~
W/R
w
@ l>•1
FUEL •• JECTO•
~·""
"
~~
•4
' -~
'o-
W/I
rrtfff.
\ll\!i
I,,,,
: :::
"'
::::
:::
' , rnl;.,
PTTSWITCHtOPTIONI
·
' ~!U~~ I
·-=i.·
8
RGJ
:++:§
-t-+
(")
--1
:D
(")
)>
r I .w-ICJ-<vW==i-
r==O•-rl°l-G
=.
L__
YIB--4J-YIB.;:'._ ' 4 !!! UP"' ')'-'1------c,,_r-,..._ _1 ___ _
I
JJ{ ,,_'!lJ,,,:i
~ m::"'." - •' 0
•• rrfni~:':!•·-::;:::c·-"--G·~'J-··-
..,..,. -- '
~-~· -.---i
••• • • -·
I
~
T > j-1II
I l!J '
G-
-~
'4.\j:w-·J ________ ' •; w------·C·l• ' '
-l:D----·-----------:,: m, en
~7,; ~II ~-
W/81 -
-<
..-~, ·=·
" :::
en
II'
8
- '--, ••111
11
~~ ATMOSP1iERIC R!"4o!E CQNTROL BOX
•·]'!'i!)'·:
:
--1
m
s::
PAESSURE - . --- : : )
w SENSOR : "
--:Q_~I~~~'" ~ ~; . ~!~I
PTlRElAY
UP
B
B l "' .:: en
I 11•!lr -
,--~---G• ·=-
1
1---==-I
Lt = ',=i1
..:;:;] ' ~ . ... •.
.....
___ ~~
0
O Mtp-:~
•-fh- .Co\
HIGH PRESSURE
•
•·-;-
0 @ BAnERY FUEL PUMP
~
.~~-· ~ ~~~
12V100A
I II ... ' •·•'!!! I
.,.,~·· ~ ~
' Q
111111 1' •
p,91--tr:)-P'll
11 ITI I lbl
•-t:D-•Lbl
1
'
Pll MOTOR IM
,-,
,r.i .. •'" I EMERGENCY STOP SWITCH
LOC~ PLATE It.I ·RUN
\ 1 )OVERHEAT/OILIBTRV VOLT CAUTION BUZZER
'··-" .
l'~~l~9 L _ _ __ ~CXPlATEOFF•STOP
If \2 J NEUTRAL SWITCH
m
,),,
•
JJ.,,
13/STARTER MOTOR RELAY
(.il THROTTLE VALVE SENSOR
l5l1NJECTOR POWER SOURCE COIL
,~!;~~~?;.(}'i": ~~ ~ :_ :_:_:_: ~ :' :' ': L_G-c:D-G------~
··J CONDENSER CHARGE COIL IHIGHl

1
\71CONDENSER CHARGE COIL llOWI
'8 1 BATTERY CHARGE COlL
1996-01 DT115 and DT140 Engine Control System Wiring Diagram
16
15. Diagnosis lamp signal output
8.Y
a,v
13.
11
17
., - • .'.?.. t-- ~ NO 1 CLY 16. Ground

17. #1 ignition signal output
w .• ,·, IS I- ""'-ti 18. #2 ignition signal output
w ••
t2 ~
• };!,, N0.2 CLY
! G• 19. #3 ignition signal output

•• 10
1,9
- • .'!!_. t-- ~ N0.3 CLY 20. #4 ignition signal output
Lg 21. Pulser coil input
ia
22. Pulser coil output

••
W8
21 23, Gear count coil input
RECTIFIER & ii. 24, Gear count coil input
REGULATOR BG
OG
2] ECU 3i~
ow
w.e1 25. Engine stop signal input
2~ 26. Reset switch signal input
FUSE10A
RW ..
G
27. Oil flow sensor signal input

G)
z
IGNITION SWITCH
28. Atmospheric press. sensor signal input
~0 I
G•
Y'B OJ 0•
YBi
17 47~
46 I e.R I I I ( FP} HIGH PRESS.FUEL PUMP 29. Low oil level switch signal input -I
30, Atmospheric press, sensor power output 0
THROT.
VALVE
SENSOR
o. m ,,.44143 B•·Y 35~
36~LJ3111 31, (To ground@)
32. Buzzer signal output
z
)>
3;~
3"' w a
~45 33. Over rev. lamp signal output
lg. 34. Overheat lamp signal output z
NORMAL~OFF
CYL. WALL
TEMP. SENSOR aw
39~ 35. #1 injector power output 0
LOW OIL LEVEL
w~ 36. #1 injector ground m
SWITCH
~~~~~~~g~ION :::) IO
AIR TEMP.
SENSOR ~ ~9; I:: 41~ 37. #2 injector power output r-
m
,._,.,.,_. -; Q~ 38. #2 injector ground
OIL FLOW SENSOR ~"'I:>!
2l ~CN·~ 39. #3 injector power output 0
'-~·~·~w~--J...,.-r------;;~:;;:;;:;;'
818
EMERGENCY p ••
BrW
p Bl 26 3~ G y 40. #3 injector ground -I
STOP SWITCH
ATMOSPHERIC
Bl!R
•• • 34 t:=~tp::_-_-_-_.,.l_.1-)-----i OVER HEAT ·LED
41. #4 injector power output :D
~
PRESS. SENSOR 33- a.w GW-Y ,
DIAGNOSIS LED
42. #4 injector ground 0
t====-----t-t--'---<-< w 15 '1
I i ll4J1 j 43. TVS power output )>
'!"?, I i LOW OIL LEVE LED 44. TVS signal input r-
GROUND I I P~-·· 45. TVS ground (f)
OIL FLOW LED 46. Fuel pump ground
47, Fuel pump power output
-<
(f)
48. Air temp, sensor power output -I
49. Air temp. sensor ground m
~
(f)
01
I
........
........
1988 DT150, DTl 75 and DT200 Wiring Diagram
- - --·,r
.., ~----
05005W63
1989-90 DT150, DTl 75 and DT200 Wiring Diagram

~·w'= (,;::::;J
lH=il ®~-MUUW"~
f\ISli
-OH
~H
• . I
••n.iN.C
05005W64

1991-93 DT150, DT175 and DT200 Wiring Diagram
~
l"TTSWITCHm Iii Oil .,..,f!WINO RESET SWITCH
"-'SH-ON
m
... 56
H
fl
;: METl:R UQHT SWITCH

~ ~
~ rt CAPON-Off
CAP Off- ON
~ f"'"°"
--•
OATTEll'f
12\170AH

! RECTIF!ER&REG<.RATOR g GEAllCOUNT!NGCO!l
2 CYUNDEllTEMPSENSOll
3 g~E~~~ci;cst;;~Fo11.9ooc
I.Ml
Jill 11

5-80 IGNITION AND ELECTRICAL
DTl 75 and DT200 Twin Remote Control Wiring Diagram
~~;~~-- 11r: ', u ,.l'..,,.1\ ~i. (ll,1 ~· .J. x· · · · · · · · · · · .· .·! r;:~~·-·ff

1r
If
.,-- I
TlltM St!NDIR WHHNC HARlftSI

OIL INJECTION SYSTEM 6-2 SPECIFICATIONS CHARTS
DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION 6-2 OIL PUMP DISCHARGE RATE 6-8
OIL PUMP 6-2 TROUBLESHOOTING CHARTS
AIR/OIL MIXING VALVE 6-2 OIL INJECTION WARNING
TROUBLESHOOTING THE OIL INJECTION SYSTEM 6-15
SYSTEM 6-2 OVERHEAT WARNING SYSTEM 6-18
BLEEDING THE OIL INJECTION
SYSTEM 6-3
PROCEDURE 6-3
OIL TANK 6-3
CLEANING & INSPECTION 6-4
OIL PUMP 6-5
OIL LINES 6-6
OIL LINE CAUTIONS 6-6
AIR/OIL MIXING VALVE 6-7
OIL PUMP DISCHARGE RATE 6-7
TESTING 6-7
ADJUSTMENT 6-8
OIL PUMP CONTROL ROD 6-8
ADJUSTMENT 6-8
COOLING SYSTEM 6-11
DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION 6-11
WATER PUMP 6-11
THERMOSTAT 6-12
TROUBLESHOOTING THE COOLING
SYSTEM 6-12
WATER PUMP 6-12
THERMOSTAT 6-13
OIL INJECTION WARNING
SYSTEMS 6-14
LOW OIL LEVEL 6-14
OIL FLOW 6-14
TROUBLESHOOTING THE Olt INJECTION
WARNING SYSTEM 6-15
OIL LEVEL SENSOR 6-16
TESTING 6-16
OIL FLOW SENSOR 6-17
TESTING 6-17
OVERHEAT WARNING
SYSTEM 6-17
TROUBLESHOOTING THE OVERHEAT
WARNING SYSTEM 6-17
OVERHEAT SENSOR 6-19
TESTING 6-19

6-2 OIL INJECTION
OIL INJECTION SYSTEM
between engine rpm and the pump means that oil is metered without hesitation
Description and Operation in exactly the correct ratio at all throttle openings. To minimize smoke and pos-
Suzuki is the originator of outboard oil injection, introducing it to the marine sible carbon build-up at idle speeds
industry in 1980. Because of years of experience in motorcycle oil injection Once the oil leaves the Mikuni pump, it travels through oil lines to distribu-
technology, Suzuki applied many of those proven principles to their outboard tion nozzles located downstream of the carburetor or throttle body. The nozzles
motors. then inject the oil directly into the incoming air/fuel mixture. This thoroughly
The oil injection system automatically adjusts the amount of oil to a clean mixes the oil, air and fuel before it enters the combustion chamber in order to
burning 150:1 fuel/oil ratio. Then as engine rpm increases, the ratio changes provide optimum lubrication.
gradually to a 50: 1 mixture at full throttle for greater lubrication.
AIR/OIL MIXING VALVE
OIL PUMP
• See Figure 3
• See Figures 1 and 2 On some models, a pre-atomization or mixing valve allows a small amount
The heart of oil injection system is a precision die cast Mikuni oil pump of crankcase pressure to be injected into the oil lines just before oil reaches
which is gear driven directly by the engine's crankshaft. This mechanical link the distribution nozzles. This forces thousands of tiny air bubbles into the oil
flow before it gets to the combustion chamber. The atomized oil stream is
therefore more uniformly distributed throughout the engine for superior lubri-
cation.
Air-oil mixture
(To crankcase)
t~~~~(-::.-~-- Oil (From oil pump)
Check valve
\
CD Oil pump
CVDriven gear
@-Retainer
© Oil pump control rod
05006G07
Fig. 1 Exploded view of a typical oil pump
Reed valve
05006G08
Fig. 3 The air/oil mixing valve accelerates the separation of the

injection oil into fine particles
Troubleshooting the Oil Injection System

Like other systems on a 2-stroke engine, the oil injection system empha-
sizes simplicity. On pre-mix engines, when enough oil accumulated in the
crankcase it passed into the combustion chamber where it burned along with
the fuel. Since oil is a fuel just like gasoline, it burns as well. Unlike gaso-
line, oil doesn't burn as efficiently and may produce blue smoke that is seen
05006G09 coming out of the exhaust. 11 the engine was cold, such as during initial
Fig. 2 Oil flow through the powerhead
start-up, oil has an even harder time igniting resulting in excessive amounts
of smoke.

OIL INJECTION 6-3
Other problems, such oil remaining in the combustion chamber, tend to foul
spark plugs and cause the engine to misfire at idle. Most of these problems Oil Tank
have been alleviated by the introduction of automatic oil injection systems.
~one of the most common problems with oil injection systems is the
use of poor quality injection oil. Poor quality oil tends to gel in the sys-
tem, clogging lines and filters. • See accompanying illustrations
It is normal for a 2-stroke engine to emit some blue smoke from the exhaust. **WARNING
I
The blue color of the smoke comes from the burning 2-stroke oil. An excessive
amount of blue smoke indicates too much oil being injected into the engine. On Proper oil line routing and connections are essential for correct oil
Suzuki engines, this is usually caused by an incorrectly adjusted injection con- injection system operation. The line connections to the powerhead
trol rod. and oil pump look the same but may contain check valves of differ-
If the exhaust smoke is white, this is a sign of water entering the combustion ing calibrations. Oil lines must be installed between the pump and
chamber. Water may enter as condensation or more seriously may enter through powerhead correctly and connected to the proper fittings on the
a defective head gasket or cracked head. Usually white smoke from condensa- intake manifold in order for the system to operate properly.
tion will disappear quickly as the engine warms.
If the exhaust smoke is black, this is a sign of an excessively rich fuel mix- 1. Turn the battery switch off and/or disconnect the negative battery cable.
ture or incorrect spark plugs. The black color of the smoke comes from the fuel 2. Remove the engine cover.
burning. 3. Position a suitable container under the lower cowling to receive oil
drained from the tank.
4. Matchmark the oil line for installation reference.
' Bleeding the Oil Injection System 5. Squeeze the oil line to restrict the flow of oil while pulling it free from
the fitting.
PROCEDURE 6. Remove the clamp with a pair of pliers.
• See Figure 4
1. Place the engine in the full upright position.
3. Connect the outboard to a fuel tank containing a 50:1 pre-mix fuel.
4. Fill the oil tank to the recommended level.
~If the oil pump was removed, fill the oil lines with oil before recon-
necting them to the pump fittings.
5. Place a suitable container under the air bleed screw to catch the 2-
stroke oil while bleeding.
6. Remove any access covers and open the air bleed screw on the injection
pump 3 turns counterclockwise.
7. Start the engine and maintain engine idle speed during the bleeding
process.
~To speed the bleeding process it is possible to disconnect the oil
pump link arm and move it to the full output position.
8. Let the engine idle until the oil leaving the oil pump air bleed screw is
free of air bubbles and no air can be seen in the clear plastic oil injection lines.
~on engines using solid color lines, the lines should be disconnected
an allowed to drain into a pan.
9. Stop the engine and retighten the screw.
1O. Install the engine cover. -
Bleed screw
05006G15
05006P27
Fig. 4 On engines using solid color lines, an air bleed screw is
sometimes used to bleed the system Step 6

6-4 OIL INJECTION
05006P07
Step 16
13. Install the oil tank and tighten the fasteners securely.
14. Squeeze the oil line to restrict the flow of oil while installing.
15. Remove the caps and install the oil line at its original location.
**WARNING
Oil lines must be reinstalled with the same type of clamps as
removed. The use of a screw type clamp will damage the vinyl
line while a tie strap will not provide sufficient clamping pres-
sure.
16. Install the clamp with a pair of pliers and push the clamp up past the rib
on the nipple.
17. Ensure all the original oil line protection, is put back in place.
18. Turn the battery switch off and/or disconnect the negative battery
cable.
19. Start the powerhead and bleed the air from the oil injection sys-
tem.
20. Check for proper oil injection system function.
05005P12
Step 17
One of the most common problems with oil injection systems is the use of
7. Slide the clamp up along the oil line to get it out of the way. poor quality injection oil. Poor quality oil tends to gel in the system, clogging
8. Cap the end of the oil line to prevent oil leakage and cap the fitting at lines and filters. If this is found to be the case with your system, or 1f the power-
the oil pump to prevent dirt entering the system. head has been sitting in storage for a length of time, it is wise to remove the oil
9. Remove the fasteners attaching the oil tank to the powerhead. tank and clean it with solvent.
10. Lift the oil tank away from the powerhead slowly and disconnect the oil While the oil tank is removed, take the opportunity to inspect it for damage
level sensor electrical harness. and replace it as necessary. The oil tank is the only source of oil for t~e p~wer
11. Remove the tank from the powerhead. head. If it should leak, the powerhead will eventually run out of 1n1ect1on 011,
To install: with catastrophic and costly results. Remember, there are no parts stores when
12. Position the oil tank on the powerhead after connecting the oil level sen- you are miles out at sea.
sor electrical harness.

OIL INJECTION 6-5
11. Remove the oil pump from powerhead.
Oil Pump 12. Carefully pry the driven gear retainer and gasket loose using a putty
knife.
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 13. Remove the retainer, gasket and driven gear assembly from the power-
head.
• See accompanying illustrations To install:
14. Clean the gasket mating surfaces thoroughly.
**WARNING 15. If the pump is to be replaced but the oil lines reused, matchmark the
location of all oil lines on the pump for installation reference.
Proper oil line routing and connections are essential for correct oil 16. If the pump and oil lines are to be replaced, ensure the oil lines are
injection system operation. The line connections to the powerhead filled with 2-stroke oil prior to starting the powerhead.
and oil pump look the same but may contain check valves of differ- 17. Install the retainer and driven gear assembly on the powerhead using a
ing calibrations. Oil lines must be installed between the pump and new gasket.
powerhead correctly and connected to the proper fittings on the 18. Position the oil pump on the powerhead and tighten the mounting hard-
intake manifold in order for the system to operate properly. ware securely.
19. Connect the oil pump control rod at the throttle lever.
1. Turn the battery switch off and/or disconnect the negative battery cable. 20. If the banjo fittings were removed, always use new gaskets during instal-
2. Remove the engine cover. lation.
3. Position a suitable container under the lower cowling to receive oil 21. Position the banjo fittings as illustrated and tighten securely.
drained from the tank. 22. If the oil lines are to be reused, trim a small amount (114 in.) off the end
4. Remove the oil tank. prior to connecting to ensure a tight fit.
5. Disconnect the oil pump control rod at the throttle lever. 23. Connect the oil lines to their proper locations.
6. Mark the exact location of each oil line for installation reference. 24. Install the oil tank.
7. Remove the oil lines and cap the ends to prevent oil leakage. 25. Bleed the oil injection system.
8. Cap the fittings at the oil pump to prevent dirt from entering the system. 26. Connect the negative battery cable and/or turn the battery switch
9. On models equipped with banjo fittings, only remove the fittings if they on.
are to be replaced. 27. Check the oil pump discharge rate.
10. Loosen the oil pump mounting hardware. 28. Install the engine cover.
05006P14 05006P15 05006P16

6-6 OIL INJECTION
be installed between the pump and powerhead correctly and connected to the
Oil Lines proper fittings on the intake manifold in order for the system to operate prop-
erly.
OIL LINE CAUTIONS 1. Turn the battery switch off and/or disconnect the negative battery cable.
1. Do not bend or twist the oil lines when installing. 3. Position a suitable container under the lower cowling to receive oil
2. When installing clips, position the tabs toward the inside and make sure drained from the tank.
they are not in contact with other parts. 4. Remove the oil tank.
3. Check the oil lines, when installed in position, do not come in contact 5. Mark the exact location of each oil line for installation reference.
with rods and lever during engine operation 6. Remove the clamps with a pair of pliers and push the clamps up along
4. lnsall the oil sensor and oil lines with the sensor's arrow mark pointing the oil lines.
to the oil pump side. 7. Cap the ends of the oil lines to prevent oil leakage and cap the fitting at
5. Secure all valves and sensors using their original fasteners. the oil pump to prevent dirt entering the system.
6. Install hose protectors in their original positions. To install:
7. Extreme caution should be taken not to scratch or damage oil lines. 8. If the oil lines are to be reused, trim a small amount (114 in.) off the end
8. Do not excessively compress an oil line when installing clamps. prior to connecting to ensure a tight fit.
9 Always use factory type clamps when installing fuel lines. Never use 9. Ensure the oil lines are filled with 2-stroke oil prior to starting the pow-
screw type clamps. erhead.
10. When installing the oil tank, ensure oil lines will not be pinched 10. Connect the oil lines to their proper locations.
between the tank and the powerhead. 11. Position the clamps using pliers.
.,.Do not use screw type clamps as they may damage the oil lines and
REMOVAL &INSTALLATION cause oil leaks.
t See Figures 5 thru 12 12. Install the oil tank.

13. Bleed the oil injection system.
Proper oil line routing and connections are essential for correct oil injection 14. Connect the negative battery cable and/or turn the battery switch on.
system operation. The line connections to the powerhead and oil pump look 15. Check the oil pump discharge rate.
the same but may contain check valves of differing calibrations. Oil lines must 16. Install the engine cover.
CDThreadlocking compound
® Union fitting
@Washers
CD
05006G14
05006G11 05006G12
Fig. 7 Some powerheads use outlet unions
Fig. 5 Some oil lines need to be posi- Fig. 6 ... and to the power head for for oil hose connection. Properly position
tioned at specific angles to the oil pump . proper oil flow the unions for leak proof operation
05006G21
05006G01
Fig. 8 Oil hose routing schematic-DT55 and DT65 Fig. 9 Oil hose routing schemalic-DT225

OIL INJECTION 6-7
Air/Oil Mixing Valve

2. Position a suitable container to receive oil discharged when the hoses are
disconnected.
3. Disconnect and plug the oil lines connected to the valve.
4. Remove the valve from the powerhead.
To install:
5. Clean and inspect the valve. Replace as necessary.
6. Install the valve on the powerhead.
7. Connect the oil lines to the valve and secure them with the clamps, as
required.
Oil Pump Discharge Rate

05006G22
TESTING
Fig. 10 Oil hose routing schematic-DT115 and DT140
DT8, DT9.9 and DT15

2. Disconnect the oil line from the reservoir to the oil pump.
3. Cap the line to prevent oil from spilling during this procedure.
4. Install an engine oil measuring cylinder (09900-21602) or equivalent
graduated cylinder on the powerhead.
5. Fill the cylinder with oil and bleed the oil injection system.
6. Install a tachometer, start the engine and maintain an engine speed of
1500 rpm.
7. Select a clean-cut value on the scale of the oil measuring cylinder as a
reference point.
8. Run the engine at 1500 rpm for the next 5 minutes.
9. Note the amount of oil discharged by the pump. This is the volume of
oil from your reference point to the point at the end of 5 minute period.
10. Compare the discharged oil volume with the "Oil Pump Discharge Rate"
chart
,..Oil pump output test results may vary slightly depending on tempera-
ture and testing conditions.
05006G23
11. If the oil discharge rate is not within specification, check the injection
lines for possible leaks.
Fig. 11 Single point oil injection system hose routing schematic- 12. If the injection lines are dry, the oil pump may be faulty.
DT75 and DT85
Except OTB, DT9.9 and DT15
2. Disconnect the oil line from the reservoir to the oil pump.
To No. 2 intake To No. 3 intake
3. Cap the line to prevent oil from spilling during this procedure.
To No. 1 intake 4. Install an engine oil measuring cylinder (09941-8710 or 0990-21602)
or equivalent graduated cylinder on the powerhead.
5. Fill the cylinder with oil and bleed the oil injection system.
6. Install a tachometer, start the engine and maintain an engine speed of
1500 rpm.
7. Select a clean-cut value on the scale of the oil measuring cylinder as a
reference point.
8. Manually position the oil pump control rod in the fully closed posi-
tion.
10. Note the amount of oil discharged by the pump. This is the volume of
oil from your reference point to the point at the end of 5 minute period.
Oil pump
11. Refill the oil measuring cylinder.
Oil pump 12. Select a clean-cut value on the scale of the oil measuring cylinder as a
Oil flow sensor reference point.
05006G24 13. Manually position the oil pump control rod in the fully open position.
15. Note the amount of oil discharged by the pump.
Fig. 12 Multi point oil injection system hose routing schematic-
16. Compare the discharged oil volume from the two tests with the "Oil
DT75 and DT85 Pump Discharge Rate" chart.

6-8 OIL INJECTION
Oil Pump Discharge Rate
Oil Pump Discharge Rate @ 1500 rpm

Year Model Fully Closed (ml) Fully Open (ml)
1998-97 8 1.2-1.8 -
1988-97 9.9 1.2-1.8 -
1988-97 15 1.5-2.5 -
1988-00 25,30 1.0-1.9 1.2-1.7
1988-98 35,40 1.3-2.3 2.9-4.4
1988-89 55 1.9-3.2 3.4-5.1
1988-98 65 1.9-3.2 4.0-5.9
1988-97 75 2.2-3.7 5.0-7.5
1988-00 85 2.2-3.7 5.9-8.7
1998-00 90, 100 2.5-4.5 6.0-9.0
1988-96 115 3.8-6.8 6.5-7.9
1996-01 115 4.4-7.9 7.6-11.3
1988-95 140 3.8-6.8 8.0-12.0
1996-01 140 4.4-7.9 9.4-14.0
1988-94 150 4.7-8.7 11.5-17.2
1995-03 150 3.4-6.0 8.1-12.1
1998-03 150TC 12.1-14.5 12.9-15.8
1985-03 150STC 3.6-4.8 7.6-9.3
1988-92 175 4.7-8.7 13.3-18.0
1988-97 200 4.7-8.7 13.3-18.0
1998-00 200 5.4-7.8 12.9-15.8
1990-03 225 4.7-8.7 13.3-18.0
• Oil pump output test results may vary slightly depending on

temperature and testing conditions.
17. If the oil discharge rate is not within specification, check the injection
lines for possible leaks.
18. If the injection lines are dry, the oil pump may be faulty.
ADJUSTMENT
• See Figure 13
• Oil pump control discharge adjustment should only be necessary if Full open
the oil pump is removed for service.
Throttle linkage adjustment is an integral step in adjusting the oil control

rod.
1. Remove the engine cover
2. Move the throttle to the wide-open position.
3. Ensure that the full-throttle mark on the oil pump control lever aligns
with the matchmark on the housing.
4. Close the throttle.
5. Ensure that the closed-throttle mark on the oil pump control lever
aligns with the matchmark on the housing.
6. If the marks do not align adjust the control rod or cable as necessary.
7. On rod operated systems, disconnect the control rod from the lever. Fig. 13 Oil pump control positions when testing oil pump
Loosen the locknut and rotate the rod end as necessary to bring the discharge. Note matchmarks on pump lever and pump body
matchmarks into adjustment. Tighten the locknut and connect the control
rod. Oil Pump Control Rod .
8. On cable operated systems, loosen the locknut and rotate the cable
adjusting nut as necessary to bring the matchmarks into adjustment. Tighten ADJUSTMENT
the locknut.
9. Check the oil pump discharge rate. Oil pump control rod adjustment should only be necessary if the oil pump
10. Install the engine cover. is removed for service.

OIL INJECTION 6-9
Except DT55, DT65, DT115 and DT140 3. Adjust the control rod initial length measured between the center of
each hole in the clevis ends. Suzuki provides dimensions for the following
• See Figures 14, 15 and 16 models:
• DT25 and DT30-3.05 in. (77.5mm)
• The throttle linkage must be adjusted prior to performing this • DT90, DT100 and V4-4.9 in. (124mm)
• DT175, 1988-97 DT150 and 1988-93 DT200-5.4 in. (137.5mm)
procedure. For more information on throttle linkage adjustment, refer to • 1998-03 DT150-6.6 in. (168.5mm)
the "Fuel System" section. • 1984-97 DT200-6.3 in. (113.5mm)
• 1998-00 DT200-6.5 in. (166.0mm)
1. Remove the control rod from the anchor pins on the oil pump lever 4. Install the control rod onto the anchor pins on the oil pump lever and
and the throttle body lever. the throttle body lever.
2. Loosen the locknuts on the control rod. 5. Move the throttle to the fully closed position.
@ 3
CD Control rod
~ Oil pump lever @
@ Carburetor lever
Fig. 14 Oil pump control rod adjustment- DT90, DT100 and V4 Fig. 15 Oil pump control rod adjustment-1988-97 V6
Fig. 16 Oil pump control rod adjustment-1998-03 V6

6-10 OIL INJECTION
6. The clearance between the oil pump lever and the lever stop should
be 0.04 in. (1mm).
7. If the clearance is not as specified, readjust the control rod to
achieve the proper clearance.
8. Hold the connectors and control in place and tighten the locknuts
securely.
9. The control rod clevis ends should be positioned at 90° to each other
after tightening the lock nuts.
10. Check for proper oil pump discharge rate.
DTSS and DT65

t See Figure 17
• The throttle linkage must be adjusted prior to performing this
procedure. For more information on throttle linkage adjustment, refer to
the "Fuel System" section.

2. Loosen the locknuts on the control rod.
3. Move the throttle to the fully closed position. Fig. 17 Oil pump control rod adjustment-DT55 and DT65
4. The clearance between the oil pump lever and the lever stop should
be 0.04 in. (1 mm). The oil pump is controlled by a cable on these models.
5. If the clearance is not as specified, adjust the control rod to achieve 1. Remove the engine cover.
the proper clearance. 2. Loosen the locknuts on the cable.
3. Adjust the locknuts until the lever just touches the stopper. This is the
DT115 and DT140 fully closed position.
t See Figure 18 4. Readjust the locknuts to pull the lever open 0.12in (3mm). This is
equal to three turns of the locknuts.
• The throttle linkage must be adjusted prior to performing this 5. Tighten the locknuts securely.
procedure. For more information on throttle linkage adjustment, refer to 6. Ensure the matchmark on the lever aligns with the mark on the
pump. If the marks do not align, readjust the cable length.
the "Fuel System" section.
[Throttle body side] [Oil pump side]
CD Oil pump control cable

® Throttle valve lever
® Cable bracket
© Locknuts
®Lever
® Matchmark
0 Stopper
Fig. 18 Oil pump control cable adjustment-DT115 and DT140

OIL INJECTION 6-11
COOLING SYSTEM
Description and Operation Starboard

Water cooling is the most popular method in use to cool outboard power-
heads. A "raw-water" type pump delivers seawater to the powerhead, circulating
it through the cylinder head(s), the thermostat, the exhaust housing, and back
down through the outboard. The water runs down the exhaust cavity and away,
either through an exhaust tube or through the propeller hub.
Routine maintenance of the cooling system is quite important, as expensive
damage can occur if it overheats. The cooling system is so important, that many
outboards covered in this manual incorporate overheat alarm systems and
© Main water inlet (J;. Sub water
05006G27
Fig. 21 Cooling circuit diagram-VS powerhead

~----i:==::::::._j @Water over
flow outlet
speed limiters, in case the engine's operating temperature exceeds predeter-

05006G25 mined limits.
Poor operating habits can play havoc with the cooling system. For instance,
Fig. 19 Cooling circuit diagram-inline powerhead running the engine with the water pickup out of water can destroy the water pump
impeller in a matter of seconds. Running in shallow water, kicking up debris that is
drawn through the pump, can not only damage the pump itself, but send the debris
Port Starboard throughout the entire system, causing water restrictions that create overheating.
WATER PUMP
•See Figure 16
The water pumps used on all Suzuki outboards are a displacement type water
pump. Water pressure is increased by the change in volume between the
impeller and the pump case.
05006G28
05006G26
Fig. 22 Cutaway view of a water pump with all major components
Fig. 20 Cooling circuit diagram-V4 powerhead labeled

6-12 OIL INJECTION
On most outboards, the water pump is mounted on top of the lower unit. A So what are major causes of overheating? Well the most prevalent cause is
driveshaft key engages a flat on the driveshaft and a notch in the impeller hub. lack of maintenance. Other causes which are directly attributable to lack of
As the driveshaft rotates, the impeller rotates with it. maintenance or poor operating habits are:
On the DT2 and DT2.2 the water pump is mounted in a pump case installed • Fuel system problems causing lean mixture
on the propeller shaft between the lower unit and propeller. The pump impellers • Incorrect oil mixture in fuel or a problem with the oil injection system
are secured to the propeller shaft by a pin that fits into the propeller shaft and a • Spark plugs of incorrect heat range
similar notch in the impeller hub. The propeller on other small displacement • Faulty thermostat
models is secured to the drive shaft in the same manner. • Restricted water flow through the powerhead due to sand or silt
buildup
THERMOSTAT • Faulty water pump impeller
• Sticking thermostat
• See Figure 23
A pellet-type thermostat is used to control the flow of engine water, to pro- Water Pump
vide fast engine warm-up and to regulate water temperatures. A wax pellet ele-
ment in the thermostat expands when heated and contracts when cooled. The REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
pellet element is connected through a piston to a valve. When the pellet element
is heated, pressure is exerted against a rubber diaphragm, which forces the
Since proper water pump operation is critical to outboard operation, all seals
valve to open. As the pellet element is cooled, the contraction allows a spring to
and gaskets should be replaced whenever the water pump is removed. Also,
close the valve. Thus, the valve remains closed while the water is cold, limiting
installation of a new impeller each time the water pump is disassembled is good
circulation of water.
insurance against overheating.
As the engine warms, the pellet element expands and the thermostat valve
opens, permitting water to flow through the powerhead. This opening and clos- ,..Never turn a used impeller over and reuse it. The impeller rotates
ing of the thermostat permits enough water to enter the powerhead to keep the with the driveshall and the vanes take a set in a clockwise direction.
engine within operating limits. Turning the impeller over will cause the vanes to move in the opposite
and result in premature impeller failure.
DT2 and DT2.2
Opening temperature
,..The water pumps on the DT2 and DT.2.2 are mounted in a pump case
installed on the propeller shall between the lower unit and propeller.
The water pumps can be serviced without removing the lower unit from
the drive shall housing.
1. Remove the propeller.
2. Place a suitable container under the lower unit.
3. Remove the drain screw and drain the lubricant from the unit.
05006G29 4. Remove the bolts holding the water pump case cover to the lower unit
Fig. 23 A pellet-type thermostat is used to control the flow of engine housing and remove the cover.
5. Carefully pry the impeller from the water pump case
water
6. Remove the impeller drive pin from the propeller shaft.
To install:
7. Insert impeller drive pin in propeller shaft.
Troubleshooting the Cooling System · 8. Install a new impeller in the pump body with a counterclockwise rotating
Water cooling is the most popular method in use on outboard engines today. motion.
A "raw-water" pump delivers seawater to the powerhead, circulating it through 9. Install the pump case cover
the cylinder head(s), the thermostat, the exhaust housing, and back down 10. Tighten the fasteners securely.
through the outboard. The water runs down the exhaust cavity and away, either 11. Install the propeller.
through an exhaust tube mounted behind the propeller or, on the larger engines, 12. Fill the lower unit with lubricant.
through the propeller hub. 13. Place the outboard in a test tank or move the boat to a body of water.
Routine maintenance of the Ctloling system is quite important, as expensive 14. Test the cooling system for proper operation.
damage can occur if it overheats. The cooling system is so important, that many
outboards covered in this manual incorporate overheat alarm systems and Except DT2 and DT2.2
speed limiters, in case the engine's operating temperature exceeds predeter- 1. Remove the lower unit.
mined limits. 2. Place the lower unit in a suitable holding fixture, keeping the unit
Poor operating habits can play havoc with the cooling system. For instance, upright.
running the engine with the water pickup out of water can destroy the water 3. As required, remove the water tube from the pump cover .
pump impeller in a matter of seconds. Running in shallow water, kicking up 4. Remove the water pump cover.
debris that is drawn through the pump, can not only damage the pump itself, 5. Slide the impeller off the drive shaft .
but send the debris throughout the entire system, causing water restrictions that 6. Remove the impeller drive pin or key from the drive shaft.
create overheating. 7. Carefully pry the pump base plate and gasket assembly free of the lower
Symptoms of overheating are numerous and include: unit housing.
• A "pinging" noise coming from the engine, commonly known as detona- 8. Discard the gasket.
tion To install:
• Loss of power 9. Clean the gasket mating surfaces thoroughly.
• A burning smell coming from the engine 10. Install the pump base plate using a new gasket.
• Paint discoloration on the powerhead in the area of the spark plugs and 11. Install the impeller drive key into the drive shaft.
cylinder heads 12. Install a new impeller onto the drive shaft, aligning the impeller slot with
If these symptoms occur, immediately seek and correct the cause. If the the drive shaft key.
engine has overheated to the point where paint has discolored, it may be too
late to save the powerhead. Powerheads in this state usually require at least par- ,..Make sure the locating pins are in place prior to installing the pump
tial overhau I. cover.

OIL INJECTION 6-13
13. Slowly rotate the drive shaft clockwise while sliding the water pump
cover down the drive shaft. This will allow the impeller to flex into the housing
in the right direction.
14. Coat the water pump cover bolt threads with thread locking com-
pound.
15. Install the lockwashers and bolts, Tightening the bolts securely.
16. As required, install the water tube into the pump cover.
17. Install the lower unit.
18. Place the outboard in a test tank or move the boat to a body of
water.
19. Test the cooling system for proper operation.
~When removing water pump seals, note the direction in which each
seal lip faces for proper installation reference.
Remove the drive shaft grommet, as required and water tube seal from the
pump cover. Inspect these rubber parts for wear, hardness or deterioration and
replace if necessary. 05006P18
On models equipped with a water pump cover 0-ring, remove the 0-ring and
replace it. Step 4
Check the pump cover for cracks, distortion or melting and replace as
required. Clean the pump cover and base plate in solvent and blow dry with
compressed air.
1. Throughly remove all gasket residue from the mating surfaces.
Thermostat

1. Locate the thermostat cover on the cylinder head.
2. Remove the cover bolts.
3. Carefully pry the cover from the cylinder head.
4. If the cover does not want to come loose, tap it gently with a plastic
hammer.
5. Remove the thermostat cover.
6. Remove the thermostat cover gasket.
7. Remove the thermostat from the cylinder head.
To install:
8. Throughly clean the gasket mating surfaces.
9. Inspect the thermostat bore for signs of corrosion. Outboards used in 05006P19
salt water should be flushed with fresh water after each use to prevent corrosion
from forming. Step 5
10. Position the thermostat in the cylinder head.
05006P17 05006P08
Step 2 Step 6

6-14 OIL INJECTION
Air breather hole
05006P09
05006G31
Fig. 24 Corrosion inside the thermostat bore signals a lack of main-
Step 11 tenance. Always flush your outboard with fresh water, especially
after boating in salt water
11. Point the air breather hole, if equipped, toward the end of the cylinder
head (toward the spark plugs). matter. If necessary, test the removed thermostat for operation by immersing it
12. Install the cover using a new gasket. in a pot filled with water.
13. Tighten the cover bolts securely. 1. With a piece of string pinched by the valve, suspend the thermostat in a
pot in such a way that the thermostat floats above the bottom of the pot.
2. Raise the water temperature.
3. If the valve opens (the thermostat releases the string and drops to the
• See Figure 24 bottom of the pot) at the temperature specified on the thermostat, the thermostat
The cause of a malfunctioning thermostat is often foreign matter stuck to the is functioning correctly.
valve seat. Inspect the thermostat to make sure it is clean and free of foreign 4. If the valve does not open (the thermostat remains hanging) at the temper-
ature specified on the thermostat, the thermostat is faulty and should be replaced.
OIL INJECTION WARNING SYSTEMS

to the warning system through the key switch. When the oil level in the tank
Description and Operation drops to a predetermined level, the warning light will change color to alert the
operator of a low oil condition. If the operator continues, a buzzer will then
LOW OIL LEVEL sound. After a predetermined time, the engine rpm will be cut to reduce oil con-
sumption and prevent the engine from running out of oil at high speed.
• See Figure 25 ,..The low oil warning system is equipped with a reset that will allow the
A low oil level warning light and buzzer are included with most oil injected operator to run the engine in a low oil condition for approximately 30 min-
models. The buzzer and warning light may be installed either in the instrument utes. To reset the warning system, remove the engine cover and press the
panel, on the engine case or in the remote control. The light and buzzer serve a red reset button on the electrical cover with the engine running.
dual function. The sending unit, located in the powerhead oil tank, is connected
OIL FLOW

On some models, the inline oil filter is equipped with an oil flow sensor. If
the oil flow is restricted or slows down due to an obstruction within the inline
~Fromoiltank
-----.
05006P30
ON - OFF
Fig. 25 As the level of oil in the tank decreases, the float level 05006G16
drops and will illuminate a low oil level lamp at a predetermined Fig. 26 Cutaway view of the oil flow sensor with major components
level identified

OIL INJECTION 6-15
oil filter, the integral micro-switch will close. This will activate the low oil flow
and rev limit lights on the monitor. The warning buzzer will sound and the
engine speed will automatically decrease.
Troubleshooting the Oil Injection Warning System

When the oil level reaches a predetermined level in the oil tank, the oil level
monitor will turn from green to red as the switch in the oil tank senses the low
oil condition. If the operator continues to operate the outboard and the oil level
drops further, the warning buzzer will begin to sound at 7 second intervals. All
the time, the red low oil warning light will be on. After 10 seconds of running,
05006G20
the engine RPM will drop and the rev. limit light on the monitor will come on.
If for some reason full RPM is needed during a low oil condition and the
operator does not have oil onboard, the low oil reset button on the engine lower
Fig. 27 If the oil flow is restricted or slows down due to an obstruc- cover can be pressed with the engine running. This button over-rides the rev-
tion within the inline oil filler, the integral micro-switch will close
limit circuitry, but not the buzzer or light. The operator may continue to run with
the buzzer and light on at wide open throttle for approximately 30 minutes.
OIL INJECTION WARNING SYSTEM TROUBLESHOOTING CHART

SUZUKI MONITOR
SYMPTOM POSSIBLE CAUSE
BUZZER OIL FLOW WATER LIMIT
Key switch-ON • Oil level is lower than safety
ON level ( 1.0 lit).
Oil light-ON
The buzzer and I ight do not • Poor operating or defective
come on after starting the cooling water sensor.
engine. • Disconnected cooling water
sensor lead wires.
• Defective buzzer.
• Defective monitor.
• Malfunction of ignition
switch.
• Defective reset unit.
While running engine above • Blocked oil filter (clean or
3000 RPM, engine RPM replace).
ON ON ON
drops and buzzer, flow, and • Defective oil flow switch.
over-rev limit light come on.
Oil level-OK • Defective oil level switch.
Buzzer ON ON ON ON
Over-rev control ON
Oil level is less than 1.0 lit. • Defective oil level switch.
and light, buzzer and over-
rev do not come on.
Oil is less than 1.0 lit., • Disconnected reset unit lead
buzzer and light come on. wires.
ON ON
Over-rev control does not • Defective COi unit.
come on. • Defective reset unit.
• Shorted reset switch.
Oil is less than 1.0 lit. and • Defective buzzer.
although over-rev control • Disconnected ignition switch
ON ON
and lights works, buzzer and buzzer lead wires.
dor~ not sound.
..
While operating engine at • Oil level in the oil tank is

over 3000 RPM, engine lower than safety level ( 1.0
speed is reduced after the ON ON ON lit).
buzzer sounds for 10
seconds.
The buzzer sounds and the • Low oil level.
oil light stay on even though • Defective oil level switch.
ON ON
engine speed is below 3000
RPM.
05006C02

6-16 OIL INJECTION
Early type Early type

r------<J••~
Tester Tester Fload r-----<Jo,..,.
EB lead e lead position

Value
...
r - - - - - ( ) Y1llow
Green No.1 on G•-

B~ci<
Black
Red No.2 on
Yellow No. 3 on TCH No.l
Orange No.4 on TCH No.2
SWITCH No 3
6Qmm]
-'--"-'~No 4 !Bottom of fton) SWITCH No oi
Late type Late type
'Cf
Float Switch
Tester Tester
EB lead e lead
1-2
position
1-2-3
position
Value
Green No. 1 No. 1 on :~SWITCH NO. 1 IONI

Red No. 2 No. 2 on -u~ FLOAT NO. 1
oon
"~'
Between
Black No. 2
Orange No. 2 - No. 3
[ ' - " " 00.
No. 2 No. 3 on
SWITCH NO. 3 IOFFI
SWITCH NO. 3 (ON)
FLOAT NO. 2
05006G33
Fig. 28 Testing the oil level sensor
4. If the sensor does not operate as specified, it may be faulty. Clean the
Oil Level Sensor sensor and retest.
5. If the sensor functions properly, check the oil level warning electrical har-
TESTING ness for opens or shorts.
• See Figure 28 REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

1. Remove the oil level sensor. • See Figures 29, 30 and 31
2. Connect a multimeter between the sensor terminals as illustrated and
continuity. 1. Remove the engine cover.
3. Continuity should existbetween the illustrated terminals when float is at 2. Label and disconnect the oil level sensor electrical harness.
the designated positions. 3. Carefully pry the oil level sensor from the oil tank.
4. Carefully remove the oil level sensor from the oil tank.
,..Some early model sensor use a two position float that should show To install:
continuity at the lowest position and no continuity at the upper position. 5. Place the oil level sensor in the oil tank.
05006P29 05006P03 05006P02
Fig. 29 The oil level sensor is held into Fig. 30 The oil level sensor electrical har- Fig. 31 The oil level sensor uses a mulli-
the oil tank by a rubber stopper ness runs down the side of the oil tank pin and a bullet connector

OIL INJECTION 6-17
~Tester
05006G18
05006G19 05006P05
Fig. 32 Connect a hand vacuum pump to Fig. 33 Continuity should exist when vac- Fig. 34 The oil flow sensor is located near
the sensor and check the sensor for conti- uum is applied and should not exist when the bottom of the oil tank, inline with the
nuity vacuum is released oil feed hose
6. Carefully push the oil level rubber stopper into the oil tank. 9. Connect the oil lines to the filter and secure them with the clamps.
7. Connect the oil level sensor electrical harness. 10. Connect the oil flow sensor electrical harness.
8. Install the engine cover. 11. Install the oil tank if removed.
Oil Flow Sensor CLEANING &INSPECTION
TESTING • See Figure 35
,..Some oil flow sensors cannot be disassembled for cleaning.
1. Disassemble the oil filter and remove the strainer.
1. Remove the oil flow sensor.
2. Clean the strainer in solvent and blowing it dry using compressed air.
2. Connect a hand vacuum pump to the outlet side of the sensor and plug
3. Inspect the 0-ring, diaphragm and strainer for damage and replace com-
the inlet side of the sensor.
ponents as necessary.
3. Check for continuity between the sensor terminals.
4. Assemble the oil filter and tighten the screws securely.
4. Continuity should exist when vacuum is applied and should not exist
when vacuum is released.
sensor and retest.
6. If the sensor functions properly, check the oil flow warning electrical har-
ness for opens or shorts.

2. Remove the oil tank as necessary to gain access to the oil filter.
3. Position a suitable container to receive oil discharged when the hoses
are disconnected.
4. Label and disconnect the oil flow sensor electrical harness.
5. Disconnect and plug the oil lines connected to the filter.
6. Remove the filter from the powerhead.
05006G17
To install: -
7. Clean and inspect the filter. Fig. 35 Clean the strainer by washing in solvent and blowing dry
8. Position the filter on the powerhead. using compressed air
OVERHEAT WARNING SYSTEM

switch sensed water flowing past it, it sent a signal to the control module and
Description and Operation the warning light and buzzer would remain off.
A overheat warning light and buzzer are included on most models. The The latest style sensor uses a heat sensing bimetal switch installed in the cylinder
buzzer and warning light may be installed either in the instrument panel, on the wall. The switch is designed to turn on at a predetermined cylinder wall temperature.
engine case or in the remote control.
The light and buzzer serve a dual function. The sending unit, usually located Troubleshooting the Overheat Warning System
in the cylinder head, is connected to the warning system through the key switch.
When the powerhead temperature raises to a predetermined temperature, the The overheat warning system is activated should cylinder wall temperature
warning light will illuminate and the warning buzzer will sound to alert the opera- become high due to insufficient cooling water. The red temperature lamp will be
tor of an overheat condition. After a predetermined amount of time, the engine illuminated and the buzzer will sound.
rpm will be cut to reduce the overheat condition and prevent powerhead damage. If the sensor detects overheating when engine speed is more than a predeter-
Two types of sensors have been used to monitor for overheat conditions. The mined rpm, the rev. limiter will activate and the rev. limit warning lamp will also
first monitored cooling water level in the powerhead using a float switch. If the illuminate.

6-18 OIL INJECTION
OVERHEAT WARNING SYSTEM TROUBLESHOOTING CHART
SUZUKI MONITOR
SYMPTOM POSSIBLE CAUSE
BUZZER OIL FLOW WATER LIMIT
The buzzer and light do not • Poor operating or defective
come on after starting the cooling water sensor.
engine. • Disconnected cooling water
sensor lead wires.
• Defective buzzer.
• Defective monitor.
• Malfunction of ignition
switch.
• Defective reset unit.
The buzzer keeps sounding • Blockage of water intake.
for 10 to 13 seconds after • Damaged water pump.
starting the engine and the • Blocked cooling water circuit
water light stays on. • Poor operating or defective
ON ON
•No water coming from cooling water sensor.
the discharge hole. • Blocked water passage.
• Water is coming from • Defective cooling water
the discharge hole. sensor.
While running engine above • Blocked water intake.
3000 RPM, buzzer sounds • Damaged water pump.
and cooling water light • Defective cooling water
ON ON ON
come on. A her 2 or 3 sensor.
seconds over-rev control • Blocked water passage.
comes on.
Over-rev control does not • Defective reset switch.
release despite reset switch • Defective reset unit.
having been pushed.
Oil level-OK • Defective reset unit.
Recommended RPM range. • Defective CDI unit.
ON
No buzzer.
Over-rev control-ON
Buzzer sounds and cooling • Poor operating or defective
water is normal. ON ON ON cooling water sensor.
Over-rev control-ON
Engine speed is re,9uced • Engine is over-revving.
after 10 seconds of uneven ON
engine running.
li
Engine smooths out if the • Engine is over-revving.
throttle is slightly backed-
off from the full-open
F
position.
While operating engine at • Oil level in the oil tank is
over 3000 RPM, engine lower than safety level ( 1.0
speed is reduced after the ON ON ON lit).
buzzer sounds for 10
seconds.
The buzzer sounds and the • Blocked water intake.
water light is on even • Damaged water pump.
though the engine speed ON ON • Defective cooling water
has been reduced to below sensor.
3000 RPM. • Blocked water passage.
05006C03

OIL INJECTION 6-19
Overheat Sensor
Water Level Switch

1. Turn the battery switch off and/or disconnect the negative battery cable.
t
3. Locate the overheat sensor on the cylinder head.
4. Label and disconnect the switch harness.
5. Remove overheat sensor attaching bolts.
6. Using pliers, grab the tongue of the sensor and twist slightly to remove.
To install:
7. Check the 0-ring on the end of the sensor for damage and replace as
necessary.
8. Lubricate the 0-ring and install the sensor in the cylinder head.
9. Install overheat sensor attaching bolts and tighten them securely.
10. Connect the switch harness. 05006G36
11. Turn the battery switch on and/or connect the negative battery cable.
12. Test the overheat system for proper operation. Fig. 37 Place a plastic lie-wrap in the sensor bore and push the sen-
13. lnstal I the engine cover. sor into the bore
Heat Sensing Switch

1. Turn the battery switch off and/or disconnect the negative battery cable. Less than
2. Remove the engine cover. 1 mm
3. Locate the overheat sensor on the cylinder head.
4. Label and disconnect the switch harness. (0.04 in.)
5. Using pliers, switch grab the switch at the illustrated point with pliers
and pull with a slight twist to remove.
To install:
6. Check the 0-ring on the end of the sensor for damage and replace as
necessary.
7. Lubricate the 0-ring.
8. Place a plastic tie-wrap in the sensor bore and push the sensor into the
bore.
//
9. When the sensor tip has reached the bottom of the bore, depress the
sensor further and hold in that position. //
/
10. Slowly remove the tie-wrap to release the trapped air at the bottom of '/
the bore. .//
11. If the sensor is properly installed, it should not protrude more than 0.04 05006G37
in (1 mm) above the surface.
Fig. 38 If the sensor is properly installed, it should not protrude
,..If the sensor is not installed properly, it will not be seated at the bot-
tom of the bore and will not give accurate temperature readings. This more than 0.04 in (1mm) above the surface
may lead to an overheat condition.
12. Connect the switch harness.
13. Turn the battery switch on and/or connect the negative battery cable.
14. Test the overheat system for proper operation.
TESTING
Hold with pliers here
Water Level Switch
t See Figure 39
1. Remove the switch from the powerhead.
2. Connect a multimeter between the switch terminals and check for continuity.
3. With the float in the lower position, continuity should exist With the float
in the upper position, there should be no continuity.
sensor and retest.
5. Clean the sensor as follows:
a. Inspect the float to see if it move up and down smoothly.
b. If the action is stiff, disassemble the switch and flush thoroughly with
05006G35
fresh water to clean.
Fig. 36 When removing the heat sensing switch grab the switch at ,..Always remove the switch pin from the left and insert it into the right
the illustrated point with pliers and pull side of the switch.

6-20 OIL INJECTION
Green/Yellow (Right)
Green/Red (Left)
+
OFF
Teste< 1
ON
negative l3 lead
Black c::;> To pocket tester

positive !3j lead Cigar lighter
05006G34
05006G32
Fig. 40 Testing the heat sensing switch
Fig. 39 Testing the water level switch
3. With the switch at room temperature, there should be no continuity.
6. If the sensor functions properly, check the overheat warning electrical 4. Using a cigar lighter from your vehicle, heat the end of the sensor.
harness for opens or shorts. ,..Take care to not touch the sensor with the cigar lighter. Excessive
heat will damage the sensor.
Heat Sensing Switch
5. As the sensor warms, continuity should exist.
t See Figure 40 6. If the sensor does not operate as specified, it may be faulty.
1. Remove the switch from the powerhead. 7. If the sensor functions properly, check the overheat warning electrical
2. Connect a multimeter between the switch terminals and check for continuity. harness for opens or shorts.

ENGINE MECHANICAL 7-2
THE TWO-STROKE CYCLE 7-2
FLYWHEEL 7-2
INSPECTION 7-5
POWERHEAD 7-5
DISASSEMBLY & ASSEMBLY 7-15
POWERHEAD
RECONDITIONING 7-32
DETERMINING POWERHEAD
CONDITION 7-32
PRIMARY COMPRESSION TEST 7-32
SECONDARY COMPRESSION
TEST 7-32
BUY OR REBUILD? 7-33
POWERHEAD OVERHAUL TIPS 7-33
TOOLS 7-34
CAUTIONS 7-34
CLEANING 7-34
REPAIRING DAMAGED
THREADS 7-34
POWERHEAD PREPARATION 7-35
CYLINDER BLOCK AND HEAD 7-35
GENERAL INFORMATION 7-35
INSPECTION 7-36
CYLINDER BORES 7-36
INSPECTION 7-37
REFINISHING 7-37
PISTONS 7-37
INSPECTION 7-38
PISTON PINS 7-39
INSPECTION 7-39
PISTON RINGS 7-40
INSPECTION 7-41
CONNECTING RODS 7-41
INSPECTION 7-42
THE CRANKSHAFT 7-43
INSPECTION 7-44
BEARINGS 7-44
INSPECTION 7-45
SPECIFICATIONS CHARTS
TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS 7-46
ENGINE REBUILDING
SPECIFICATIONS 7-49

7-2 POWER HEAD
ENGINE MECHANICAL
mixture. The trick here is to add just enough oil to the fuel to provide lubrica-
The Two-Stroke Cycle tion. If too much oil is added to the fuel, the spark plug can become "fouled"
The two-stroke engine can produce substantial power for its size and weight. because of the excessive oil within the combustion chamber. If there is not
But why is a two-stroke so much smaller and lighter than a four-stroke? Well, enough oil present with the air/fuel mixture, the piston can "seize" within the
there is no valvetrain. Camshafts, valves and pushrods can really add weight to cylinder. What usually happens in this case is the piston and cylinder become
an engine. A two-stroke engine doesn't use valves to control the air and fuel scored and scratched, from lack of lubrication. In extreme cases, the piston will
mixture entering and exiting the engine. There are holes, called ports, cut into turn to liquid and eventually disintegrate within the cylinder.
the cylinder which allow for entry and exit of the fuel mixture. The two-stroke Most two-stroke engines require that the fuel and oil be mixed before being
engine also fires on every second stroke of the piston, which is the primary rea- poured into the fuel tank. This is known as "pre-mixing" the fuel. This can
son why so much more power is produced than a four-stroke. become a real hassle. You must be certain that the ratio is correct. Too little oil
Since two-stroke engines discharge approximately one fourth of their fuel in the fuel could cause the piston to seize to the cylinder, causing major engine
unburned, they have come under close scrutiny by environmentalists. Many states damage and completely ruining your weekend. Most modern two-stroke engines
have tightened their grip on two-strokes and most manufacturers are hard at work have an oil injection system that automatically mixes the proper amount of oil
developing new efficient models that can meet the tough emissions standards. with the fuel as it enters the engine.
Check out your state's regulations before you buy any two-stroke outboard.
The two-stroke engine is able to function because of two very simple physi- Flywheel
cal laws. The first, gases will flow from an area of high pressure to an area of
lower pressure. A tire blowout is an example of this principle. The high-pres-
sure air escapes rapidly if the tube is punctured. Second, if a gas is compressed REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
into a smaller area, the pressure increases, and if a gas expands into a larger
area, the pressure is decreased. If these two laws are kept in mind, the operation DT2 and DT2.2
of the two-stroke engine will be easier understood.
Two-stroke engines utilize an arrangement of port openings to admit fuel to the • See accompanying illustrations
combustion chamber and to purge the exhaust gases after burning has been com-
pleted. The ports are located in a precise pattern in order for them to be opened
and closed at an exact moment by the piston as it moves up and down in the 2. Remove the fuel tank assembly.
cylinder. The exhaust port is located slightly higher than the fuel intake port. This
arrangement opens the exhaust port first as the piston starts downward and there- 4. Remove the starter cup and magneto insulator.
5. Using a flywheel holder (09930-40113for1988/89 models;
fore, the exhaust phase begins a fraction of asecond before the intake phase.
09930-48720 1990 to present), hold the flywheel and loosen the retaining nut.
Actually, the intake and exhaust ports are spaced so closely together that
6. Using a flywheel rotor remover remove the flywheel. Make sure to keep
both open almost simultaneously. For this reason, the pistons of most two-
track of the flywheel key when removing the flywheel.
stroke engines have a deflector-type top. This design of the piston top serves
two purposes very effectively. First, it creates turbulence when the incoming
charge of fuel enters the combustion chamber. This turbulence results in more
complete burning of the fuel than if the piston top were flat. Second, it forces
the exhaust gases from the cylinder more rapidly.
Beginning with the piston approaching top dead center on the compression
stroke, the intake and exhaust ports are closed by the piston, the reed valve is
open, the spark plug fires, the compressed air/fuel mixture is ignited, and the
power stroke begins. The reed valve was open because as the piston moved
upward, the crankcase volume increased, which reduced the crankcase pressure
to less than the outside atmosphere.
As the piston moves downward on the power stroke, the combustion chamber
is filled with burning gases. As the exhaust port is uncovered, the gases, which
are under great pressure, escape rapidly through the exhaust ports. The piston
continues its downward movement. Pressure within the crankcase increases,
closing the reed valves against their seats. The crankcase then becomes a sealed
chamber. The air/fuel mixture is compressed ready for delivery to the combustion 05005G05
chamber. As the piston continues to move downward, the intake port is uncov-
ered. A fresh air/fuel mixture rushes through the intake port into the combustion Step 5
chamber striking the top of the piston where it is deflected along the cylinder
wall. The reed valve remains closed until the piston moves upward again.
When the piston begins to move upward on the compression stroke, the reed
valve opens because the crankcase volume has been increased, reducing crankcase
pressure to less than the outside atmosphere. The intake and exhaust ports are
closed and the fresh fuel charge is compressed inside the combustion chamber.
Pressure in the crankcase decreases as the piston moves upward and a fresh
charge of air flows through the carburetor picking up fuel. As the piston
approaches top dead center, the spark plug ignites the air/fuel mixture, the
power stroke begins and one full cycle has been completed.
The exact time of spark plug firing depends on engine speed. At low speed
the spark is retarded, fires later than when the piston is at or beyond top dead
center. Engine timing is built into the unit at the factory.
At high speed, the spark is advanced, fires earlier than when the piston is at
top dead center. On all but the smallest horsepower outboards the timing can be
changed adjusted to meet advance and retard specifications.
Because of the design of the two-stroke engine, lubrication of the piston and 05005G06
cylinder walls must be delivered by the fuel passing through the engine. Since Step 6
gasoline doesn't make a good lubricant, oil must be added to the fuel and air

POWERHEAD 7-3
To install: DT9.9 and DT15
7. Before installing the flywheel, thoroughly inspect the crankshaft and
flywheel tapers. These surfaces must be absolutely clean and free of oil, • See accompanying illustrations
grease and dirt. Use solvent and a lint free cloth to clean the surfaces and 1. Remove the engine cover from the engine.
then blow dry with compressed air. 2. Remove the two nuts and disconnect the battery/starting motor
8. Install the flywheel key, starter cup and flywheel and flywheel bolt. cables and the neutral switch wire (if equipped).
Tighten the bolt to 30-36 ft. lbs. (40-50 Nm.) 3. Remove the recoil starter assembly (if equipped).
9. Install the fuel and engine cover. 4. Disconnect the wire lead extending from the stator assembly to the
rectifier assembly.
DT4, DTSY, DT6 and OTB 5. Remove the two bolts and remove the starter motor from the engine.
• See accompanying illustrations 6. Using a flywheel holder (09930-49310), remove the flywheel nut.
7. Using a flywheel holder and the flywheel remover plate (09930-
1. Remove the engine cover from the engine. 30713), remove the flywheel.
2. Remove the built-in fuel tank (if equipped).
3. After removing the bolts, remove the recoil starter assembly.
4. Remove the starter cup. If the screws are hard to loosen, use an
impact drive to remove them.
5. Use a flywheel holder (09930-40113) to remove the flywheel nut.
6. Use a flywheel holder and flywheel rotor remover (09930-30713) to
remove the flywheel.
7. Make sure to remove the flywheel key from the crankshaft.
To install:
8. Install the flywheel key into the keyway on the crankshaft. Make sure
the key is seated correctly into the keyway.
10. Using a flywheel holder, install the flywheel nut and tighten to 32.5 ft.
lbs. (45 Nm).
11. Install the starter cup onto the flywheel and tighten the screws.
12. Install the recoil starter.
Step 3
Step 5
Step 6
Step 6 Step 7

7-4 POWER HEAD
9. Using a flywheel holder, tighten the flywheel nut to 144. 7-151.9 ft. lbs.
(200-210 Nm).
11. Install the starter pulley onto the flywheel.

leads.
05005G34 4. Using aflywheel holder (09930-39520) and flywheel & propeller shaft
Step 8 housing remover (09930-39410), remove the flywheel nut.
5. Using the special tools, remove the flywheel from the crankshaft.
8. If any difficulty is experienced in removing the flywheel, tap the head of 6. Make sure to remove the flywheel key before removing the magneto case
the bolt with a hammer. This will usually help in the removal operation. to prevent tearing the seal.
9. Remove the key from the crankshaft keyway. 7. Remove the magneto case from the engine.
To install: To install:
10. Install the key securely into the crankshaft keyway. 8. Throughly clean the mating surface of the flywheel and crankshaft taper
11. Install the flywheel onto the crankshaft. with cleaning solvent. Install the key onto the crankshaft securely.
12. Using a flywheel holder, tighten the flywheel nut to 58-65 ft. lbs. (80-90 9. Install the flywheel onto the crankshaft.
Nm) 10. Using a flywheel holder, tighten the flywheel nut to 144.5-152 ft. lbs.
13. Install the starter motor back onto the engine and securely tighten the (200-210 Nm).
bolts (if equipped). 11. Connect the stator wire leads to their proper connections.
14. Reconnect the starter/battery cables and reconnect the neutral safety
switch lead wire.
15. Install the recoil starter assembly (if equipped)
16. Connect the stator wires making sure all connections are free from cor-
rosion and are securely fastened.
DT20, DT25 and DT30

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable lead to prevent accidental engine
start.
3. Disconnect the wire leads in the electrical junction box, leading from the
stator assembly.
5. Using a screwdriver to hold the flywheel, remove the starter pulley bolts
and lift of the starter pulley.
6. Using a flywheel holder (09930-48720), remove the flywheel nut.
7. Using a flywheel holder and a flywheel remover (09930-39411 ), remove
the flywheel from the engine.
To install:
9. Using a flywheel holder, tighten the flywheel nut to 94-108 ft. lbs.
(130-150 Nm).
10. Install the starter pulley onto the flywheel.
DT35 and DT40

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable lead to prevent accidental engine start.
3. Disconnect the wire leads in the electrical junction box and COi/controi
unit holder, leading from the stator assembly.
6. Using a flywheel holder and a flywheel remover (09930-39410), remove
the flywheel and key.
To install:
8. Install the flywheel onto thew crankshaft. Step 7

POWERHEAD 7-5
12. Connect the battery negative battery cable. removed with the outboard still mounted on the boat and the powerhead is
13. Install the engine cover. equipped with an electric starter, disconnect first the negative, then the positive
battery cables to prevent accidental starting.
DT115, DT140 and V4 On some powerheads it will be necessary to remove attached components if
the powerhead is to be overhauled. Refer to the specific sections covering these
1. Remove the engine cover. components for removal and installation information.
2. Remove the electrical junction box cover and disconnect the stator leads.
3. Remove the flywheel cover. DT2 and DT2.2
5. Using a flywheel holder, flywheel remover (09930-39411) and flywheel • See accompanying illustrations
bolts (09930-39420), remove the flywheel. 1. Remove the engine covers.
6. Remove the flywheel from the crankshaft. 2. Turn the fuel shutoff to the OFF position. Disconnect and plug the fuel line.
To install: 3. Remove the fuel tank.
7. Throughly clean the mating surface of the flywheel and crankshaft taper 4. Remove the rewind starter assembly.
with cleaning solvent. Install the key onto the crankshaft securely. 5. Remove the starter cup and flywheel insulator.
8. Install the flywheel onto the crankshaft. 6. Using a flywheel holder loosen and remove the flywheel nut.
9. Using a flywheel holder, tighten the flywheel nut to 181-188 ft. lbs. 7. Remove the flywheel using a flywheel puller.
(250-260 Nm).
V6
2. Remove the electrical junction box cover and disconnect the stator leads.
To install:
05007G01
8. Using a flywheel holder, tighten the flywheel nut to 181-188 ft. lbs. Step 5
(250-260 Nm).
INSPECTION
Check the flywheel carefully for cracks or fractures.
**CAUTION
A cracked or chipped flywheel must be replaced. A damaged fly-
wheel may fly apart at high rpm, throwing metal fragments over a
large area. Do not attempt to repair a damaged flywheel.
Check tapered bore of flywheel and crankshaft taper for signs of fretting or
working. 05007G02
On electric start models, check the flywheel teeth for excessive wear or damage. Step 6
Check crankshaft and flywheel nut threads for wear or damage.
Replace flywheel, crankshaft and/or flywheel nut as required.
Powerhead
When removing any powerhead, it is a good idea to make a sketch or take an

instant picture of the location, routing and positioning of electrical harnesses,
brackets and component locations for installation reference.
,..Sometimes when attempting to remove the powerhead it won't come
loose from the adapter. The gasket may hold the powerhead. Rock the
powerhead back and forth or give it a gentile nudge with a pry bar. If the
gasket breaks loose and the powerhead still will not come loose, then
the driveshaft is seized to the crankshaft at the splines.
05007G03
The following procedures assume that the outboard has been removed from
the boat and placed on a suitable work stand. If the powerhead is being Step 7

7-6 OIL INJECTION
DT4 and DTSY
2. Remove the fuel tank.
3. Remove the hand rewind starter.
4. Using a flywheel holder loosen and remove the flywheel nut.
5. Remove the flywheel using the flywheel puller.
6. Label and disconnect the stator and CDI unit electrical leads.
7. Remove the ignition coil and CDI unit.
8. Disconnect the throttle cable from the carburetor.
9. Loosen the hose clamp, disconnect and plug the fuel hose.
10. Remove the silencer.
11. Remove the carburetor.
12. Remove the fuel pump.
13. Remove the powerhead mounting bolts.
14. Remove the powerhead.
• If the powerhead will not come off, rotate the propeller to free the
Step 12 powerhead from the driveshaft.
15. Remove and discard the powerhead mounting gasket.

To install:
16. Clean the powerhead mounting and driveshaft housing gasket
surfaces thoroughly.
17. Lightly coat the driveshaft splines with marine grease.
18. Install a new powerhead new mounting gasket.
19. Install the powerhead, rotating the propeller as required to align
driveshaft and crankshaft splines.
20. Coat powerhead mounting bolt threads with silicone sealer.
21. Install the powerhead mounting bolts and tighten to specification.
22. Install the fuel pump.
23. Install the carburetor.
24. Install the silencer.
25. Connect the throttle cable top the carburetor and adjust it to
specification.
26. Install the ignition coil and CDI unit.
27. Connect the stator and CDI unit electrical leads.
28. Install the flywheel. Tighten the flywheel nut to specification.
Step 14 29. Install the hand rewind starter.
8. Disconnect the spark plug lead. 31. Unplug and connect the fuel hose. Using a new hose clamp, fasten
9. Label and disconnect the stator lead wires. the hose properly.
10. Remove the choke knob 32. Start the engine and make adjustments as necessary.
11. Remove the throttle link knob and the control panel. 33. Check engine for proper operation.
12. Remove the carburetor and fuel shut-off valve. 34. Install the engine cover.
13. Remove the bolts holding the powerhead to the driveshaft housing.
14. Remove the powerhead. DT6 and DT8
• If the powerhead will not come off, rotate the propeller to free the t See accompanying illustrations
powerhead from the driveshaft. 1. Remove the engine cover.
2. Remove the silencer cover.
15. Remove and discard the powerhead mounting gasket. 3. Loosen the hose clamp, disconnect and plug the fuel hose.
To install: 4. Disconnect the choke knob.
16. Clean the powerhead mounting and driveshaft housing gasket
surfaces thoroughly.
17. Lightly coat driveshaft splines with marine grease.
19. Install the powerhead, rotating the propeller as required to align
driveshaft and crankshaft splines.
20. Coat powerhead mounting bolt threads with thread locking
compound.
22. Install the carburetor and fuel shut-off valve.
23. Install the control panel, the choke knob and the throttle link knob.
24. Connect the stator lead wires.
25. Connect the spark plug lead.
26. Install the flywheel.
27. Using a flywheel holder tighten the flywheel nut.
28. Install the starter cup and flywheel insulator.
29. Install the rewind starter assembly.
31. Connect the fuel line and turn the fuel shutoff to the ON position.
32. Start the engine and make adjustments as necessary.
33. Check engine for proper operation.
34. Install the engine covers. Step 2

POWER HEAD 7-7
0500/GOI 0500/GOB
05007G09
05007G10 05007G11 05007G12
_.If the powerhead will not come off, rotate the propeller to free the
powerhead from the driveshaft.
To install:
18. Clean the powerhead mounting and driveshaft housing gasket surfaces
thoroughly.
21. Install the powerhead, rotating the propeller as required to align drive-
shaft and crankshaft splines.
23. Install the powerhead mounting bolts and tighten to specifica-
tion.
24. Install the upper oil seal housing.
05007G13 25. Install the stator.
Step 15
27. Using a flywheel holder install and tighten the flywheel nut specifica-
tion.
5. Remove the carburetor. 28. Connect the throttle cable to the carburetor.
6. Label and disconnect the stator and CDI unit electrical leads. 29. Install the hand rewind starter.
7. Remove the ignition coil and CDI unit. 30. Install the fuel pump using a new fuel filter.
8. Remove the fuel pump with the fuel filter still attached. 31. Install the ignition coil and CDI unit.
9. Remove the hand rewind starter. 32. lnstal I the carburetor.
10. Disconnect the throttle cable from the carburetor. 33. Connect the choke knob.
11. Using a flywheel holder loosen and remove the flywheel nut. 34. Unplug and connect the fuel hose. Using a new hose clamp, fasten the
12. Remove the flywheel using the flywheel puller. hose properly.
13. Remove the stator. 35. Install the silencer cover.
14. Remove the upper oil seal housing. 36. Start the engine and make adjustments as necessary.
15. Remove the powerhead mounting bolts 37. Check engine for proper operation.
16. Remove the powerhead. 38. Install the engine cover.

7-8 POWERHEAD
DT9.9 and DT15 9. Label and disconnect the COi unit electrical leads.
10. Remove the COi unit.
11. Label and disconnect the neutral start switch electrical
1. Remove the engine cover. lead.
2. On electric start models, disconnect the electrical cables between the 12. Remove the neutral start switch.
battery and starter. 13. Label and disconnect the stator electrical leads.
3. On oil injected models, disconnect and plug the oil line. Remove the oil 14. Remove the rectifier assembly.
tank. 15. Remove the starter motor relay.
4. Disconnect the neutral switch. 16. Remove the starter motor.
5. Loosen the neutral starter interlock locknut and disconnect the interlock 17. Using a flywheel holder loosen and remove the flywheel nut.
cable from the throttle limiter. 18. Remove the flywheel using the flywheel puller.
6. Loosen the throttle cable locknuts and disconnect the cable from the 19. Remove the flywheel key.
control lever. 20. Disconnect the stator electrical leads
7. Remove the silencer cover. 21. Remove the throttle control lever.
8. Remove the recoil starter assembly. 22. Disconnect and plug the hoses from the fuel filter.
05007G16
05007G15 05007G17
05007G19
05007G18
05007622 05007G23
05007G21

POWER HEAD 7-9
05007G14 05007G15
05007G16
05007G17 05007G18
Step 33 Step 41
23. Remove the fuel filter. 50. Connect the stator electrical leads.
24. Remove the silencer case and carburetor. 51. Install the neutral start switch.
25. Remove the fuel pump. 52. Connect the neutral start switch electrical lead.
26. Remove the nut on the backside of the starter switch assembly. 53. Install the CDI unit.
27. Unclamp the starter cable clamp and remove the grommet from the 54. Connect the CDI unit electrical leads.
cable. Pull the starter cable out. 55. Install the recoil starter assembly.
28. Remove the stator assembly. 56. Install the silencer cover.
29. Remove the bolts holding the powerhead to the drivesha!t housing. 57. Connect the cable to the control lever and adjust to specification.
30. Remove the powerhead. 58. Connect the interlock cable to the throttle limiter and adjust to specifica-
tion.
,..II the powerhead will not come off, rotate the propeller to free the 59. Connect the neutral switch.
powerhead from the driveshaft. 60. On electric start models, connect the electrical cables between the bat-
31. Remove and discard the ptJwerhead mounting gasket. tery and starter.
To install: 61. On oil injected models, install the oil tank and properly connect the oil
32. Clean the powerhead mounting and drivesha!t housing gasket surfaces lines.
thoroughly. 62. Start the engine and make adjustments as necessary.
33. Lightly coat the drivesha!t splines with marine grease. 63. Check engine for proper operation.
34. Install a new powerhead new mounting gasket. 64. Install the engine cover.
sha!t and crankshaft splines. DT20, DT25 and DT30
37. Install the powerhead mounting bolts and tighten to specification. 1. Remove the engine cover.
38. Install the stator assembly. 2. Remove the recoil starter.
39. Install the starter cable, grommet and starter cable clamp. 3. Remvoe the electric parts holder and rectifier cover.
40. Install the nut on the backside of the starter switch assembly. 4. Disconnect the starter cable from the neutral start lever.
41. Install the fuel pump and fuel filter, routing the hoses properly. 5. Disconnect the negative, then the positive battery cables.
42. Install the silencer case and carburetor. 6. Disconnect the spark plug leads.
43. Connect the hoses to the fuel filter. 7. Remove the CDI unit from the electric parts holder.
44. Install the throttle control lever. 8. Remove the electric parts holder.
45. Install the flywheel key and flywheel. 9. Disconnect and plug the oil hose from the oil tank.
46. Using a flywheel holder tighten the flywheel nut. 10. Remove the oil tank.
47. Install the starter motor. 11. Disconnect the throttle valve sensor, choke solenoid and idle speed
48. Install the starter motor relay. adjustment switch electrical leads.
49. Install the rectifier assembly. 12. Disconnect the fuel hose from the engine under cover.

7-10 POWER HEAD
13. Remove the wiring harness stopper and disconnect the ignition coil lead 21. Remove the bolts holding the powerhead to the driveshaft housing.
wires. 22. Remove the powerhead.
14. Remove the COi unit and the wiring harness assembly.
~Ifthe powerhead will not come off, rotate the propeller to free the
16. Disconnect the choke lever.
17. Remove the bolts holding the powerhead to the driveshaft housing. 23. Remove and discard the powerhead mounting gasket.
18. Remove the powerhead. To install:
~Ifthe powerhead will not come off, rotate the propeller to free the
thoroughly.
19. Remove and discard the powerhead mounting gasket. 26. Install a new powerhead new mounting gasket.
To install: 27. Install the powerhead, rotating the propeller as required to align drive-
20. Clean the powerhead mounting and driveshaft housing gasket surfaces shaft and crankshaft splines.
thoroughly. 28. Coat powerhead mounting bolt threads with silicone sealer.
21. Lightly coat the driveshaft splines with marine grease. 29. Install the powerhead mounting bolts and tighten to specification.
22. Install a new powerhead new mounting gasket. 30. Install the flywheel.
23. Install the powerhead, rotating the propeller as required to align drive- 31. Install the fuel filter.
shaft and crankshaft splines. 32. Connect the hoses to the fuel filter.
24. Coat powerhead mounting bolt threads with silicone sealer. 33. Connect all electrical leads in the electrical parts holder.
25. Install the powerhead mounting bolts and tighten to specification. 34. Connect the black ground wire and tighten the bolt in the electrical parts
26. Connect the choke lever. holder.
27. Install the silencer cover. 35. Install the starter motor assembly.
28. Install the COi unit and the wiring harness assembly. 36. Connect the starter motor, starter relay and neutral switch electrical
29. Install the wiring harness stopper and connect the ignition coil lead leads.
wires. 37. Install the throttle lever and connect the throttle control link rods.
30. Connect the fuel hose to the engine under cover. 38. Install the carburetor.
31. Connect the throttle valve sensor, choke solenoid and idle speed adjust- 39. Adjust the link rods to specification
ment switch electrical leads. 40. Connect the fuel lines
32. Install the oil tank. 41. Install the choke knob.
33. Connect the oil hose to the oil tank. 42. Connect and adjust the oil pump control rod at the carburetor.
34. Install the electric parts holder. 43. Install the silencer cover.
35. Install the COi unit from the electric parts holder. 44. Install the recoil starter assembly.
36. Connect the spark plug leads. 45. Install the oil tank.
37. Connect the battery cables, positive side first. 46. Connect the oil tank hose.
38. Connect the starter cable to the neutral start lever. Adjust to specifica- 47. Connect the oil tank electrical leads.
tion 48. Connect and adjust the neutral start interlock cable at the throttle lim-
39. Install the electric parts holder and rectifier cover. iter.
40. Install the recoil starter. 49. Connect the negative battery cable, then the positive battery cable.
41. Start the engine and make adjustments as necessary. 50. Start the engine and make adjustments as necessary.
42. Check engine for proper operation. 51. Check engine for proper operation.
43. Install the engine cover. 52. Install the engine cover.
DT35 and DT40 DT50

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable, then the positive battery t See accompanying illustrations
cable. 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable, then the positive battery
2. Remove the engine cover. cable.
3. Disconnect the neutral start interlock cable from the throttle limiter. 2. Remove the engine cover.
4. Label and disconnect the oil tank electrical leads. 3. Remove the silencer cover
5. Disconnect and plug the oil tank hose.
6. Remove the oil tank.
9. Disconnect the oil pump control rod from the carburetor.
10. Remove the choke knob.
11. Disconnect and plug the fuel lines
12. Remove the carburetor.
13. Disconnect the throttle control link rods and remove the throttle
lever.
14. Disconnect the starter motor, starter relay and neutral switch electrical
leads. 15. Remove the starter motor assembly.
16. Loosen the bolt in the electrical parts holder and disconnect the black
ground wire.
17. Label and disconnect all electrical leads in the electrical parts
holder.
18. Disconnect and plug the hoses from the fuel filter. 05007G29
19. Remove the fuel filter.
20. Remove the flywheel. Step 3

POWER HEAD 7-11
05007G30 05007G31
05007G34
Step 9
DT55 and DT65

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable, then the positive battery cable.
05007G33 2. Remove the engine cover.
Step 8
3. Label and disconnect the electrical leads to the oil level switch.
4. Disconnect and plug the oil hose.
5. Remove the oil tank.
4. Remove the silencer case. 6. Remove the power trim and tilt motor relay cover, then remove the relays
5. Disconnect the carburetor throttle rod. from the cylinder.
6. Disconnect and plug the fuel hoses. 7. Remove the electrical parts holder cover. Label and disconnect all elec-
7. Remove the carburetors and choke solenoid. trical connectors in the electrical parts holder.
8. Remove the grommet and loosen the clutch shaft double nuts. 8. Remove the CDI unit.
9. Disconnect the clutch rod from the clutch shaft by driving the clutch rod 9. Disconnect the electrical leads from the starter motor and relay.
out using a drift. 10. Remove the flywheel.
10. Remove the bolts holding the powerhead to the driveshaft housing. 11. Disconnect and plug the fuel hose.
11. Remove the powerhead. 12. Remove the clutch link from the throttle control arm and the clutch shaft
side arm.
_.If the powerhead will not come off, rotate the propeller to free the
13. Disconnect the water outlet hose from the engine lower cover.
powerhead from the driveshafl.
14. Remove the bolts securing the lower under cover on each side of the
12. Remove and discard the powerhead mounting gasket. outboard.
To install:
thoroughly.
19. Connect the clutch rod to the clutch shaft by driving the clutch rod in
using a drift.
20. Tighten the clutch shaft double nuts to specification.
21. Install the grommet.
22. Install the carburetors and choke solenoid.
23. Connect the fuel hoses.
24. Connect and adjust the carburetor throttle rod.
25. Install the silencer cover and case.
26. Connect the negative battery cable, then the positive battery cable.

7-12 POWERHEAD
15. Remove both under covers .
16. Remove the bolts holding the powerhead to the driveshalt hous-
ing.
17. Remove the powerhead.
,..If the powerhead will not come off, rotate the propeller to free the
To install:
thoroughly.
25. Install both under covers and tighten the bolts securely.
26. Connect the water outlet hose to the engine lower cover.
27. Install the clutch link on the throttle control arm and the clutch shalt
side arm.
28. Connect the fuel hose.
30. Connect the electrical leads to the starter motor and relay.
31. Install the CDI unit.
32. Install the electrical parts holder cover.
33. Connect al I electrical connectors in the electrical parts holder.
34. Install the power trim and tilt relays.
35. Install the power trim and tilt motor relay cover.
36. Install the oil tank.
37. Connect the oil hose.
38. Connect the electrical leads to the oil level switch.
39. Connect the negative battery cable, then the positive battery
cable.
DT75 and DT85

2. Remove the lower front cover.
------
05007G35
05007P21
Step 20 Step 2

POWERHEAD 7-13
rs .L / %;;----
'
.
/ "'-'"' ... ~
•.~u"'
' r.·L.
~~~ ~
' ---·-- t
05007G36 05007G37
05007G38
05007G40
05007G39 05007G41
05007G42
05007G43
05007G44
3. Remove the lower rear cover. 11. Remove the bolts holding the powerhead to the driveshaft housing.
4. Disconnect the negative, then the positive battery cable. 12. Remove the powerhead using a hoist.
5. Remove the battery cable clamp, disconnect the cable grommet from the
lower support housing and remove the cables.
powerhead from the driveshaft. ·
6. Disconnect and plug the fuel hose.
7. Remove the fuel filter. 13. Remove and discard the powerhead mounting gasket
8. Remove the grommet on the starboard side of the driveshaft housing. 14. Remove the aligning dowel pins from the bottom of the powerhead.
9. Remove the clutch shaft nuts. To install:
10. Disconnect the clutch shaft rod by driving it out of its bore with a 15. Clean the powerhead mounting and driveshaft housing gasket surfaces
drift. thoroughly.

7-14 POWER HEAD
27. Connect the positive, then the negative battery cables.
28. Install the idle speed adjustment switch, if equipped and electrical parts
holder cover.
29. Install the oil tank.
30. Connect and plug the oil hose.
31. Label and Connect the oil level switch electrical leads.
V4
1. Remove the engine top cover.
2. Remove the relay cover under the starter.
3. Remove the starter cable from the starter.
4. Disconnect the starter relay from the relay holder.
5. Remove the relay holder and bolt.
05007G45 6. Disconnect the negative battery cable and the power trim and tilt motor
Step 16 cable from the engine.
8. Remove the power trim and tilt motor relays together with the relay holder.
16. Lightly coat the driveshalt splines with marine grease. 9. Remove the cover from the electrical parts holder.
17. Install a new powerhead new mounting gasket. 10. Label and disconnect all electrical leads inside the electrical parts
18. Install the powerhead, rotating the propeller as required to align drive- holder.
shalt and crankshaft splines. 11. Remove the bolts securing the electrical parts holder and remove it.
19. Coat powerhead mounting bolt threads with silicone sealer. 12. Label and disconnect the ground wire from each cylinder head.
20. Install the powerhead mounting bolts and tighten to specification. 13. Label and disconnect the oil level switch wire leads.
21. Install the clutch shalt rod by driving it into its bore with a drift. 14. Remove the oil tank.
22. Install the clutch shalt nuts. 15. Disconnect and plug the fuel hose from the fuel filter.
23. Install the grommet on the starboard side of the driveshaft housing. 16. Disconnect the throttle valve sensor electrical lead, the oil sensor elec-
24. Install the fuel filter. trical lead and the starter valve electrical lead.
25. Connect the fuel hose. 17. Remove the lower front under cover.
26. Install the battery cables and secure them with the cable clamps. 18. Remove the lower rear under cover.
27. Install the cable grommet in the lower support housing. 19. Disconnect the water outlet hose.
28. Connect the negative battery cable, then the positive battery cable. 20. Remove the bolts holding the powerhead to the driveshalt housing.
29. Start the engine and make adjustments as necessary. 21. Remove the clutch connector rod pin.
30. Check engine for proper operation. 22. Attach a hoist to the engine hooks and lilt the powerhead slightly.
DT115 and DT140 powerhead from the driveshaft.
1. Remove the engine cover. 23. Disconnect the clutch lever rod from the clutch shaft.
2. Label and disconnect the oil level switch electrical leads. 24. Disconnect the upper clutch rod from the clutch shalt.
3. Disconnect and plug the oil hose. 25. Remove the powerhead using a hoist.
4. Remove the oil tank. 26. Remove and discard the powerhead mounting gasket.
5. Remove the idle speed adjustment switch, if equipped and electrical 27. Remove the aligning dowel pins from the bottom of the powerhead.
parts holder cover. To install:
6. Disconnect the negative, then the positive battery cables. 28. Clean the powerhead mounting and driveshaft housing gasket surfaces
7. Disconnect the power trim and tilt electrical leads. thoroughly.
8. Remove the electrical parts holder assembly. 29. Lightly coat the driveshalt splines with marine grease.
9. Disconnect and plug the fuel hose. 30. Install a new powerhead new mounting gasket.
10. Remove the lower engine covers. 31. Install the powerhead, rotating the propeller as required to align drive-
11. Disconnect the water outlet hose. shaft and crankshaft splines.
12. Remove the bolts holding the powerhead to the driveshaft housing. 32. Coat powerhead mounting bolt threads with silicone sealer.
13. Remove the powerhead using a hoist. 33. Install the powerhead mounting bolts and tighten to specification.
34. Connect the upper clutch rod to the clutch shaft.
,..If the powerhead will not come off, rotate the propeller to free the 35. Connect the clutch lever rod to the clutch shaft.
powerhead from the driveshaft. 36. Install the clutch connector rod pin.
14. Remove and discard the powerhead mounting gasket. 37. Connect the water outlet hose.
15. Remove the aligning dowel pins from the bottom of the powerhead. 38. Install the lower rear under cover.
To install: 39. Install the lower front under cover.
16. Clean the powerhead mounting and driveshalt housing gasket surfaces 40. Connect the throttle valve sensor electrical lead, the oil sensor electrical
thoroughly. lead and the starter valve electrical lead.
17. Lightly coat the driveshalt splines with marine grease. 41. Connect the fuel hose to the fuel filter.
18. Install a new powerhead new mounting gasket. 42. Install the oil tank.
19. Install the powerhead, rotating the propeller as required to align drive- 43. Connect the oil level switch wire leads.
shaft and crankshaft splines. 44. Connect the ground wire from each cylinder head.
20. Coat powerhead mounting bolt threads with silicone sealer. 45. Install the electrical parts holder
21. Install the powerhead mounting bolts and tighten to specification. 46. Connect all electrical leads inside the electrical parts holder.
22. Connect the water outlet hose. 47. Install the cover on the electrical parts holder.
23. Install the lower engine covers. 48. Install the power trim and tilt motor relays together with the relay holder.
24. Connect the fuel hose. 49. Install the flywheel cover.
25. Install the electrical parts holder assembly. 50. Connect the negative battery cable and the power trim and tilt motor
26. Connect the power trim and tilt electrical leads. cable to the engine.
51. Install the relay holder and bolt.

POWER HEAD 7-15
52. Connect the starter relay to the relay holder.
53. Install the starter cable to the starter.
54. Install the relay cover under the starter.
V6
2. Disconnect the negative, then the positive battery cables.
3. Remove the cover from the electrical parts holder.
4. Disconnect the battery cable and the power trim and tilt motor electrical
leads from the powerhead.
5. Disconnect and plug the fuel hose.
6. Remove the cover from the electrical parts holder
7. Disconnect all electrical leads inside the electrical parts holder, then
remove the electrical parts holder.
9. Remove the lower front under cover.
05007G46
10. Remove the lower rear under cover.
11. Disconnect the water outlet hose.
Step 1
13. Remove the upper to lower clutch rod clevis pin.
14. Attach a hoist to the engine hooks and lift the powerhead slightly.
~If the powerhead will not come off, rotate the propeller to free the
15. Disconnect the clutch lever rod connector from the clutch shaft.
16. Disconnect the upper clutch rod from the clutch shaft.
17. Remove the powerhead using a hoist.
19. Remove the aligning dowel pins from the bottom of the powerhead.
To install:
thoroughly.
24. Install the upper to lower clutch rod clevis pin.
27. Connect the water outlet hose.
28. Install the lower rear under cover. 05007G47
29. Install the lower front under cover.
30. Install the electrical parts holder, then connect all electrical leads inside Step 4
the electrical parts holder.
31. Install the cover on the electrical parts holder
32. Connect the fuel hose. -
33. Connect the battery cable and the power trim and tilt motor electrical
leads to the powerhead.
34. Connect the positive, then the negative battery cables.
DISASSEMBLY & ASSEMBLY
DT2 and DT2.2

1. Loosen the cylinder head nuts in several stages using a criss-cross pattern.
2. Remove the nuts and lift the cylinder head from the cylinder block.
3. Remove and discard the cylinder head gasket.
4. Loosen the crankcase bolts in several stages using a criss-cross pattern.
5. Carefully pry apart and separate the crankcase halves.
~If the halves resist coming apart, tap them lightly with a plastic ham- 05007G48
mer. Do not pry heavily on the crankcase halves, as severe damage may
occur. Step 5

7-16 POWERHEAD
05007GSO
05007GS1
05007G49
05007G53
05007GS2
05007GS4
Thrust Bearings
Grease here
05007G56
05007GSS
05007G57
6. Remove the 0-ring from the crankshaft lower end. 11. Remove the piston and needle bearing from the connecting rod.
7. To remove the rotating assembly, hold the crankshaft while sliding the 12. Slide the top and bottom crankshaft oil seals from the crank-
cylinder block away from the piston. shaft.
8. Remove the crankshaft thrust rings. To assemble:
9. Carefully pry the piston pin retainer from its groove on the piston. Then 13. Install the piston and needle bearing on the connecting rod. Make sure
repeat the procedure for the other side. the arrow on the piston points to the splined portion of the crankshaft (down-
ward).
~The circlip will tend to fly when removed. Be ready to catching it as it
14. Push the piston pin into the piston bore using a brass drift if neces-
comes free.
sary.
9. Piston pin retainers are only good for one usage, discard the retainers 15. Install new piston pin retainers
after removing them. 16. Lubricate the seals with marine grease prior to installation.
10. Push the piston pin from it bore in the piston using a brass drift if necessary. 17. Install the top and bottom crankshaft oil seals with the numbers facing
the ends of the crankshaft.
~The piston pin should slide smoothly from its bore. If opposition is
18. Install the crankshaft thrust rings.
felt, either the bore is out of round or the pin is bent. Inspect the com- 19. Lubricate the rotating assembly with 2-stroke oil prior to installa-
ponents and replace as necessary.
tion.

POWERHEAD 7-17
DT4 and DTSY

1. Loosen the clips and disconnect the lubrication hose from each
fitting.
2. Remove the mounting bolts and remove the rewind starter mounting
base.
3. Remove the screws and remove the water jacket cover and gasket.
4. Loosen the cylinder head bolts in several stages using a criss-cross
pattern.
5. Remove the cylinder head.
6. Loosen the crankcase bolts in several stages using a criss-cross
pattern.
7. Carefully pry apart and separate the crankcase halves.
8. To remove the rotating assembly, hold the crankshaft while sliding
the cylinder block away from the piston.
Step 24
Step 25
20. Install the rotating assembly into the cylinder block, making sure the
crankshaft faces the correct way. The splined end of the crankshaft should
face driveshaft housing side.
21. Apply marine grease to the 0-ring and the splined portion of the
crankshaft. Install the 0-ring.
22. Apply a bead of Suzuki Bond No. 4 (99000-31030), or equivalent 1. Cover, cylinder head 8. Stopper, reed valve
sealer to the crankcase halves (shaded areas in the illustration).
2. Gasket, cylinder head 9. Reed, valve
23. Tighten the crankcase bolts to specification in several stages using a
criss-cross pattern. cover 10. Cover, water jacket
24. Install a new cylinder head gasket noting the position of the cooling 3. Cylinder 11. Gasket, water jacket
water hole. 4. Dowel pin Cover, lower drain
25. Install the cylinder head matching the waterway on the head to the
12.
water hole on the cylinder block. 5. Cover, port, R hole
26. Tighten the cylinder head nuts to specification in several stages using 6. Cover, port, L 13. Hose, lubrication
a criss-cross pattern. 7. 0 ring
27. Rotate the crankshaft several turns to check for binding. If crankshaft
does not turn freely, determine the cause and correct prior to assembling the
powerhead. Fig. 1 Exploded view of the powerhead-DT4

7-18 POWE RHEAD
DT6 and DT8
1. Loosen the cylinder head bolts in several stages using a criss-cross
pattern.
3. Loosen the inlet case bolts in several stages using a criss-cross
pattern.
4. Remove the inlet case.
5. Remove the reed valve assembly.
Fig. 2 Crankcase bolt tightening sequence - DT4 and DTSY
9. Carefully pry the piston pin retainer from its groove on the piston.
Then repeat the procedure for the other side.
• The circlip will tend to fly when removed. Be ready to catching it as

it comes free.
Step 1
10. Piston pin retainers are only good for one usage, discard the
retainers after removing them.
11. Push the piston pin from it bore in the piston using a brass drift if
necessary.
• The piston pin should slide smoothly from its bore. If opposition is
felt, either the bore is out of round or the pin is bent. Inspect the
components and replace as necessary.
12. Remove the piston from the connecting rod.

13. Slide the top and bottom crankshaft oil seals from the crankshaft.
<B>To assemble:</B>
14. Install the piston on the connecting rod. Make sure the arrow on the
piston points to the splined portion of the crankshaft (downward).
15. Push the piston pin into the piston bore using a brass drift if
necessary.
16. Install new piston pin retainers
17. Lubricate the seals with marine grease prior to installation.
18. Install the top and bottom crankshaft oil seals with the numbers Step 3
facing the ends of the crankshaft.
19. Install the crankshaft thrust washer.
20. Lubricate the rotating-assembly with 2-stroke oil prior to installation.
crankshaft faces the correct way. The splined end of the crankshaft should
face driveshaft housing side.
22. The crankshaft thrust washer should fit snugly into the groove in the
cylinder block.
23. Apply marine grease to the splined portion of the crankshaft.
24. Apply a bead of Suzuki Bond No. 4 (99000-31030), or equivalent
sealer to the crankcase halves (shaded areas in the illustration).
25. Tighten the crankcase bolts to specification in several stages using a
criss-cross pattern.
26. Install a new cylinder head gasket.
27. Install the cylinder head and tighten the cylinder head bolts to
specification in several stages using the correct torque sequence.
28. Rotate the crankshaft several turns to check for binding. If crankshaft
does not turn freely, determine the cause and correct prior to assembling the
powerhead. Step 5

POWER HEAD 7-19
05007G68 05007G70
05007G72
05007G71
05007G73
,..The circlip will tend to fly when removed. Be ready to catching it as it

comes free.
14. Piston pin retainers are only good for one usage, discard the retainers
alter removing them.
15. Push the piston pin from it bore in the piston using a brass drift if nec-
essary.
,..The piston pin should slide smoothly from its bore. II opposition is
felt, either the bore is out of round or the pin is bent. Inspect the com-
17. Slide the top and bottom crankshaft oil seals from the crankshaft.
To assemble:
18. Install the piston on the connecting rod. Make sure the arrow on the pis-
05007G90 tons point to the exhaust port side.
Step 18 19. Push the piston pin into the piston bore using a brass drift if neces-
sary.
20. Install new piston pin retainers.
6. Loosen the exhaust cover bolts in several stages using a criss-cross 21. Lubricate the seals with marine grease prior to installation.
pattern. 22. Install the top and bottom crankshaft oil seals with the numbers lacing
7. Remove the exhaust cover. the ends of the crankshaft.
8. Remove the lower oil seal housing. 23. Install the crankshaft upper bearing, making sure the clearance between
9. Loosen the crankcase bolts in several stages using a criss-cross pattern. (A) and (B) as illustrated is not greater than 0.02 in. (0.5mm). If the clearance is
10. Separate the crankcase from the cylinder block. greater, add a shim (09160-35001) to decrease the distance.
11. Carefully pry apart and separate the crankcase halves. 24. Lubricate the rotating assembly with 2-stroke oil prior to installa-
12. Remove the rotating assembly by carefully lilting the crankshaft from the tion.
cylinder block. 25. Install the rotating assembly into the cylinder block, making sure the
13. Carefully pry the piston pin retainer from its groove on the piston. Then crankshaft laces the correct way. The splined end of the crankshaft should face
repeat the procedure for the other side. drivesha!t housing side.

7-20 POWERHEAD
DT6
OTB
05007G74 05007G77
Step 26 Step 33
OT6 DT8
05007G75 05007G78
Step 29 Step 34
DT6 (A) 3
&J
(A)
z;J
DT8
05007G76
Step 32 Step 35
26. The crankshaft lower bearing should fit snugly into the groove in the 32. Install the reed valve assembly making sure the reed valves face the
cylinder block. crankshaft.
27. Apply marine grease to the splined portion of the crankshaft. 33. nstall the inlet case and tighten the bolts to specification in several
28. Apply a bead of Suzuki Bond No. 4 (99000-31030), or equivalent sealer stages using the proper tightening sequence.
to the crankcase halves (shaded areas in the illustration). 34. Install the cylinder head using a new gasket and tighten the bolts to
29. Install the crankcase and tighten the bolts to specification in several specification in several stages using the proper tightening sequence.
stages using the proper tightening sequence. 35. Rotate the crankshaft several turns to check for binding. If crankshaft
30. Install the lower oil seal housing. does not turn freely, determine the cause and correct prior to assembling the
31. Install the exhaust cover. powerhead.

POWER HEAD 7-21
DT9.9 and DT15 8. Remove the cylinder head. II the cylinder head is hard to remove,
use a plastic hammer to drive the dead at the placed indicated in the illustra-
t See accompanying illustrations tion.
1. Loosen the inlet case bolts in several stages using a criss-cross pat- 9. Loosen the crankcase bolts in several stages using a criss-cross pattern.
tern. Then remove the crankcase.
2. Remove the inlet case (1), inner piece (2)and reed valve assembly 10. Remove the rotating assembly by carefully lilting the crankshaft from the
(3). cylinder block.
3. Remove the exhaust plate and gasket from the cylinder. 11. Carefully pry the piston pin retainer from its groove on the piston. Then
4. Remove the exhaust cover attaching bolts. repeat the procedure !or the other side.
5. Insert a pry bar between the exhaust cover and cylinder block and pry ~The circlip will tend to fly when removed. Be ready to catching it as it
the cover to remove it. Discard the exhaust cover gasket. comes free.
6. Remove the exhaust plate and discard the gasket.
7. Loosen the cylinder head bolts in several stages using a criss-cross pat- 12. Piston pin retainers are only good for one usage, discard the retainers
tern. after removing them.
13. Push the piston pin from it bore in the piston using a brass drift ii nec-
essary.
felt, either the bore is out of round or the pin is bent. Inspect the com-
To assemble:
tons point to the exhaust port side.
16. Push the piston pin into the piston bore using a brass drift if necesary.
19. Install the top and bottom crankshaft oil seals with the numbers facing
20. Lubricate the rotating assembly with 2-stroke oil prior to installa-
0500/GSO
tion.
crankshaft faces the correct way. The splined end of the crankshaft should face
Step 1 driveshaft housing side.
05007G81 05007G83
05007G91
05007G85 05007G89

7-22 POWERHEAD
' '
05007G8A
~:~~
05007G92
05007G93
05007G96
05007G95
05007G94
DT25 and DT30

1. Remove all components still attached to the powerhead until the unit is
down to the bare cylinder block assembly
2. Remove the thermostat cover and thermostat.
3. Loosen the inlet case bolts in several stages using a criss-cross pat-
tern.
6. Remove the exhaust cover attaching bolts.
Step 31
22. The flange of the lower oil seal should fit snugly into the groove in the
cylinder block.
24. Apply a bead of Suzuki Bond No. 4 (99000-31030), or equivalent sealer
to the crankcase halves (shaded areas in the illustration).
25. Install the crankcase and tighten the bolts to specification in several
stages using the proper tightening sequence.
26. Install the cylinder head using a new gasket and tighten the bolts to
specification in several stages using the proper tightening sequence.
27. Install the exhaust plate using a new gasket.
28. Install the exhaust cover and tighten the attaching bolts securely.
29. Install the reed valve assembly making sure the reed valves face the
crankshaft.
30. Install the inlet case piece with the arched surface downward and fit the
tangs into the notches of the inlet case. 05007G1S
31. Install the inlet case and tighten the bolts to specification in several Fig. 3 Crankcase bolt tightening sequence-DT25 and DT30

POWER HEAD 7-23
31. Ensure the crankcase locating pins are installed prior to installing the
crankcase.
33. Install the cylinder head using a new gasket. Tighten the cylinder head
and cylinder head cover bolts to specification in several stages using the proper
tightening sequence.
34. Install the exhaust cover and tighten attaching bolts securely.
35. Install the reed valve assembly and tighten attaching bolts securely.
36. Install the inlet case and tighten the bolts to specification in several
37. Install the thermostat cover and thermostat.
38. Install all previously remove all components to the powerhead.
DT35 and DT40

0500/GH down to the bare cylinder block assembly
Fig. 4 Cylinder head bolt tightening sequence-DT25 and DT30 2. Remove the thermostat cover and thermostat.
3. Loosen the inlet case bolts in several stages using a criss-cross pat-
tern.
7. Insert a pry bar between the exhaust cover and cylinder block and pry 4. Remove the inlet case.
the cover to remove it. Discard the exhaust cover gasket. 5. Remove the reed valve assembly.
8. Remove the lower oil seal housing attaching bolts. 6. Remove the exhaust cover attaching bolts.
9. Insert a pry bar between the oil seal housing and cylinder block and pry 7. Insert a pry bar between the exhaust cover and cylinder block and pry
the cover to remove it. Discard the oil seal housing gasket. the cover to remove it. Discard the exhaust cover gasket.
10. Loosen the cylinder head bolts in several stages using a criss-cross pat- 8. Remove the lower oil seal housing attaching bolts.
tern. 9. Insert a pry bar between the oil seal housing and cylinder block and pry
11. Insert a pry bar between the cylinder head and cylinder block and pry the cover to remove it. Discard the oil seal housing gasket.
the head to remove it. Discard the cylinder head gasket. 10. Loosen the cylinder head bolts in several stages using the sequence
12. Loosen the cylinder head cover bolts. defined by the numbers punched into the bolt heads. Start with bolt number 13
13. Insert a pry bar between the cylinder head cover and the cylinder head. and work toward bolt number 1.
Pry the head cover to remove it. 11. Insert a pry bar between the cylinder head and cylinder block and pry
14. Loosen the crankcase bolts. the head to remove it. Discard the cylinder head gasket.
15. Insert a pry bar between crankcase and the cylinder block. Pry the 12. Loosen the cylinder head cover bolts.
crankcase to remove it. 13. Insert a pry bar between the cylinder head cover and the cylinder head.
16. Remove the rotating assembly by carefully lilting the crankshaft from the Pry the head cover to remove it.
cylinder block. 14. Loosen the crankcase bolts.
17. Carefully pry the piston pin retainer from its groove on the piston. Then 15. Insert a pry bar between crankcase and the cylinder block. Pry the
repeat the procedure for the other side. crankcase to remove it.
~The circlip will tend to fly when removed. Be ready to catching it as it 16. Remove the rotating assembly by carefully lilting the crankshaft from the
comes free. cylinder block. .
17. Carefully pry the piston pin retainer from its groove on the piston. Then
18. Piston pin retainers are only good for one usage, discard the retainers repeat the procedure for the other side.
alter removing them.
19. Push the piston pin from it bore in the piston using a brass drift if nec- ~The circlip will tend to fly when removed. Be ready to catching ii as it
essary. comes free.
~The piston pin should slide smoothly from its bore. If opposition is 18. Piston pin retainers are only good for one usage, discard the retainers
fell, either the bore is out of round or the pin is bent. Inspect the com- alter removing them. . . . .
ponents and replace as necessary. 19. Push the piston pin from it bore in the piston using a brass drift 1! nec-
essary.
To assemble: ~The piston pin should slide smoothly from its bore. If opposition is
21. Install the piston on the connecting rod. Make sure the arrow on the pis- felt, either the bore is out of round or the pin is bent. Inspect the com-
tons point to the exhaust port side. ponents and replace as necessary.
22. Push the piston pin into the piston bore using a brass drift if necessary. 20. Remove the piston from the connecting rod.
23. Install new piston pin retainers. To assemble:
24. Lubricate the seals with marine grease prior to installation. 21. Install the piston on the connecting rod. Make sure the arrow on the pis-
25. Install the top and bottom crankshaft oil seals with the numbers lacing tons point to the exhaust port side. . . .
the ends of the crankshaft. 22. Push the piston pin into the piston bore using a brass drift 1! necessary.
26. Lubricate the rotating assembly with 2-stroke oil prior to installation. 23. Install new piston pin retainers.
27. Install the rotating assembly into the cylinder block, making sure the 24. Lubricate the seals with marine grease prior to installation.
crankshaft laces the correct way. The splined end of the crankshaft should lace 25. Install the top and bottom crankshaft oil seals with the numbers lacing
drivesha!t housing side. the ends of the crankshaft.
28. Ensure the crankshaft C-rings are fitted into their grooves in the 26. Lubricate the rotating assembly with 2-stroke oil prior to installation.
crankcase and the flange of the oil seals lit snugly into their grooves. Check that 27. Install the rotating assembly into the cylinder block, making sure the
the bearing stopper pins are resting snugly in their cutaways. crankshaft faces the correct way. The splined end of the crankshaft should lace
29. Apply marine grease to the splined portion of the crankshaft. drivesha!t housing side.

7-24 POWER HEAD
37. Install the thermostat cover and thermostat.
38. Install all previously removed components to the powerhead.
60 01 DT50
8
zo tern.
2. Loosen the cylinder head bolts in several stages using a criss-cross pat-

4 4. Remove the valve and spring from the cylinder block.
5. Loosen the inlet case bolts in several stages using a criss-cross pattern.
IOO 09
0500/GXX
Step 31
05007G1A
Step 2
0500/GYY
Step 32
10
05007G1B
Step 4
6 2 4 8
0500/GZZ
Step 36
28. The flange of the middle and lower oil seals should fit snugly into the
groove in the cylinder block.
33. Install the lower oil seal housing and tighten attaching bolts securely.
35. Install the reed valve assembly and tighten attaching bolts securely. 05007G1C
36. Install the inlet case and tighten the bolts to specification in several Step 5

POWERHEAD 7-25
05007G1G 05007G1D 05007G1E

05007G1F 05007G1H
05007G1J
05007G1L
05007G1M 05007G1N
7. Loosen the exhaust cover bolts in several stages using a criss-cross ,..The piston pin should slide smoothly from its bore. If opposition is
pattern. felt, either the bore is out of round or the pin is bent. Inspect the com-
8. Remove the exhaust cover. ponents and replace as necessary.
9. Loosen the crankcase bolts in several stages using a criss-cross pattern.
16. Remove the piston from the wnnecting rod.
10. Separate the crankcase from the cylinder block.
To assemble:
11. Remove the lower oil seal housing.
12. Remove the rotating assembly by carefully lilting the crankshaft from the
cylinder block.
18. Push the piston pin into the piston bore using a brass drift if necessary.
repeat the procedure for the other side.
•The circlip will tend to fly when removed. Be ready to catching it as it 21. Install the top and bottom crankshaft oil seals with the numbers facing
comes free. the ends of the crankshaft.
22. Lubricate the rotating assembly with 2-stroke oil prior to installation.
14. Piston pin retainers are only good for one usage, discard the retainers 23. Ensure the two thrust rings are properly installed prior to installing the
after removing them. rotating assembly.
15. Push the piston pin from it bore in the piston using a brass drift if nec- 24. Make sure there is no remaining 0-ring compound in the illustrated area.
essary.

7-26 POWER HEAD
driveshaft housing side.
26. Ensure the bearing stopper pins rest snugly in the cutaways.
27. Lubricate the seals with marine grease and install.
29. Install the exhaust cover and tighten the bolts securely.
31. Install the valve and spring into the cylinder block.
32. Install the cylinder head and tighten the bolts to specification in several
osoo1G1P 33. Install all components previously removed.
DT55 and DT65

Step 26
2. Remove the thermostat cover and thermostat.
3. Loosen the inlet case bolts in several stages using a criss-cross pattern.
05007G1Q
Step 28
05007P24
Fig. 5 Crankcase bolt tightening sequence-DT55 and DT65
05007G10 15
Step 30 23
4
2
19
7
22
~-?/\~~~,__~
9 21
13
17
05007G1U
05007G1R Fig. 6 Cylinder head and cylinder head cover boll lightening
Step 32 sequence-DT55 and DT65

POWER HEAD 7-27
6. Remove the exhaust cover attaching bolts.
7. Insert a pry bar between the exhaust cover and cylinder block and pry
the cover to remove it. Discard the exhaust cover gasket.
8. Remove the lower oil seal housing attaching bolts.
9. Insert a pry bar between the oil seal housing and cylinder block and pry
the cover to remove it. Discard the oil seal housing gasket.
10. Loosen the cylinder head bolts in several stages using a criss-cross pat-
tern.
11. Insert a pry bar between the cylinder head and cylinder block and pry
the head to remove it. Discard the cylinder head gasket.
12. Loosen the cylinder head cover bolts.
13. Insert a pry bar between the cylinder head cover and the cylinder head.
Pry the head cover to remove it.
14. Loosen the crankcase bolts.
15. Insert a pry bar between crankcase and the cylinder block. Pry the
crankcase to remove it.
16. Remove the rotating assembly by carefully lifting the crankshaft from the
cylinder block.
repeat the procedure for the other side. 05007G1W
,..The circlip will tend to fly when removed. Be ready to catching it as it Fig. 7 Crankcase boll lightening sequence-1988-92 DT55 and DT65
comes free.
after removing them.
19. Push the piston pin from it bore in the piston using a brass drift if nec- 13
essary.
,..The piston pin should slide smoothly from its bore. If opposition is 8 9
fell, either the bore is out of round or the pin is bent. Inspect the com-
ponents and replace as necessary. 4 5
To assemble:
21. Install the piston on the connecting rod. Make sure the arrow on the pis- 2
22. Push the piston pin into the piston bore using a brass drift if necessary. 6 3
25. Install the top and bottom crankshaft oil seals with the numbers facing 10 7
26. Lubricate the rotating assembly with 2-stroke oil prior to installation. 14 11
28. Ensure the crankshaft C-rings are fitted into their grooves in the
Fig. 8 Crankcase boll lightening sequence-1993-97 DT55 and DT65
crankcase and the flange of the oil seals fit snugly into their grooves.
29. Check that the bearing stopper pins are resting snugly in their cutaways.
31. Apply a bead of Suzuki Bend No. 4 (99000-31030), or equivalent sealer
crankcase.
38. lnstal I the thermostat cover and thermostat.
39. Install all previously remove all components to the powerhead.
DT75 and DT85

t See Figures 7, 8, 9 and 10
05007G1Y
down to the bare cylinder block assembly Fig. 9 Cylinder head and cylinder head cover boll lightening
2. Remove the thermostat cover and thermostat. sequence-1988-92 DT55 and DT65

7-28 POWER HEAD
crankcase and the flange of the oil seals fit snugly into their grooves. Check that
the bearing stopper pins are resting snugly in their cutaways.
13 12 6 2 4 8I 10 29. Apply marine grease to the splined portion of the crankshaft.
crankcase.
14 3 5 11 37. Install the thermostat cover and thermostat.
9 7 38. Install all previously removed components to the powerhead.
05007G1Z
DT115 and DT140

Fig. 10 Cylinder head and cylinder head cover bolt tightening •See Figures 11 and 12
sequence-1993-97 DT55 and DT65
3. Loosen the inlet case bolts in several stages using a criss-cross pattern. 2. Remove the silencer cover and then the silencer case.
4. Remove the inlet case. 3. Loosen the inlet case bolts in several stages using a criss-cross pat-
tern.
6. Remove the exhaust cover attaching bolts. 4. Remove the inlet case.
7. Insert a pry bar between the exhaust cover and cylinder block and pry 5. Remove the reed valve assembly.
the cover to remove it. Discard the exhaust cover gasket. 6. Remove the exhaust cover attaching bolts.
8. Remove the lower oil seal housing attaching bolts. 7. Insert a pry bar between the exhaust cover and cylinder block and pry
9. Insert a pry bar between the oil seal housing and cylinder block and pry the cover to remove it. Discard the exhaust cover gasket.
the cover to remove it. Discard the oil seal housing gasket. 8. Loosen the cylinder head bolts in several stages using a criss-cross pat-
10. Loosen the cylinder head bolts in several stages using a criss-cross pattern.
tern.
9. Insert a pry bar between the cylinder head and cylinder block and pry
11. Insert a pry bar between the cylinder head and cylinder block and pry the head to remove it. Discard the cylinder head gasket.
the head to remove it. Discard the cylinder head gasket. 10. Loosen the crankcase bolts.
12. Loosen the cylinder head cover bolts. 11. Insert a pry bar between crankcase and the cylinder block. Pry the
13. Insert a pry bar between the cylinder head cover and the cylinder head. crankcase to remove it.
Pry the head cover to remove it.
14. Loosen the crankcase bolts. cylinder block.
15. Insert a pry bar between crankcase and the cylinder block. Pry the 13. Carefully pry the piston pin retainer from its groove on the piston. Then
crankcase to remove it. repeat the procedure for the other side.
cylinder block.
17. Carefully pry the piston pin retainer from its groove on the piston. Then 7
~The circlip will tend to fly when removed. Be ready to catching it as it
comes free.
19
after removing them. 5
19. Push the piston pin from it bore in the piston using a brass drift if nec-
essary. 15
felt, either the bore is out of round or the pin is bent. Inspect the com- 11
2--i=--tB~g U=--+~-1
To assemble: D:lt----13
22. Push the piston pin into the piston bore using a brass drift if necessary.
25. Install the top and bottom crankshaft oil seals with the numbers facing ~-r-~!...-~~~r--n11,1-tt-_
the ends of the crankshaft. 25
26. Lubricate the rotating assembly with 2-stroke oil prior to installation. 9
27. Install the rotating assembly into the cylinder block, making sure the --1:::2:~~~~~'...__27
crankshaft laces the correct way. The splined end of the crankshaft should face 05007G2G
Fig. 11 Crankcase bolt tightening sequence- DT115 and DT140
28. Ensure the crankshaft C-rings are fitted into their grooves in the

POWERHEAD 7-29
30---~ 16 37. Install the inlet case and tighten the bolts to specification in several
29----H.~~:::::---- 19
31---+"1i'.l),/,'/~r-JI~ 38. Install all previously removed components to the powerhead.
28----1--4 •
V4
8--+-+~
26---'--'"
4---1====~;)::::::=:()--J--3 1. Remove all components still attached to the powerhead until the unit is
,, _ _,___22 down to the bare cylinder block assembly.
2. Remove the exhaust cover bolts.
12 7 3. Using a pry bar, remove the exhaust cover and plate.
20 ,..,__,__,___ 21
27====1'.~ii~~~~:t.===15
25 17
5. Position the power unit with the case and silencer facing downwards on
a level surface so that it will not fall over.
14
,..Place a thick rubber sheet under the silencer to prevent scratching the
6 surface.
6. Remove the cylinder head bolts.
23 7. Tap on the cylinder head with a plastic hammer to remove.
2 8. Remove the oil seal housing.
10 9. Remove the hexagon cylinder bolts.
24 10. Remove the crankcase nuts.
18-----.... 11. Pulling upward carefully and slowly, remove each cylinder head.
05007G2F
Fig. 12 Cylinder head lightening sequence- DT115 and DT140
,..The circlip will tend to fly when removed. Be ready to catching it as it
,..The circlip will tend to fly when removed. Be ready to catching it as it comes free.
comes free. 13. Piston pin retainers are only good for one usage, discard the retainers
14. Piston pin retainers are only good for one usage, discard the retainers after removing them.
after removing them. 14. Push the piston pin from it bore in the piston using a brass drift if nec-
15. Push the piston pin from it bore in the piston using a brass drift if necessary.
essary. ,..The piston pin should slide smoothly from its bore. If opposition is
,..The piston pin should slide smoothly from its bore. If opposition is felt, either the bore is out of round or the pin is bent. Inspect the com-
felt, either the bore is out of round or the pin is bent. Inspect the components and replace as necessary.
ponents and replace as necessary. 15. Remove the piston from the connecting rod.
16. Remove the piston from the connecting rod. 16. Place the crankcase on a wooden stand.
To assemble: 17. Remove the inlet cases with the reed valves.
17. Install the piston on the connecting rod. Make sure the arrow on the pis- 18. Remove the clutch shaft.
tons point to the exhaust port side. 19. Remove the crankcase bolts and lift the rotating assembly out from the
18. Push the piston pin into the piston bore using a brass drift if necessary. crankcase.
19. Install new piston pin retainers. To assemble:
20. Lubricate the seals with marine grease prior to installation. 20. Lubricate the seals with marine grease prior to installation.
21. Install the top and bottom crankshaft oil seals with the numbers facing 21. Install the top and bottom crankshaft oil seals with the numbers facing
the ends of the crankshaft. the ends of the crankshaft.
22. Lubricate the rotating assembly with 2-stroke oil prior to installation. 22. Lubricate the rotating assembly with 2-stroke oil prior to installation.
23. Firmly insert crankshaft locating pins.
25. Firmly fit the bearing races onto the locating pins with punch mark
stamped on the circumference of the bearings directed upwards.
26. Check if the projection of spacer is in the hole of crankcase correctly.
27. Make sure that the flange of the upper oil seal fit snugly into the groove
provided in crankcase.
28. Check to be sure the bearing stopper pin is resting snugly in the cut-
away.
29. Also make sure that the C-ring is fitted into groove in the crankcase.
30. Make sure that the flange of oil seal housing fits snugly into the groove
provided in crankcase.
and cylinder head cover bolts to specification in several stages using the proper 05007G2E
35. Install the exhaust cover and tighten attaching bolts securely. Step 16

7-30 POWER HEAD
Clip
11 9 7 13
368006800~
~ D
0 0
0Dd/0 0 0
16 6 z 0 0 4
I 14 8 10 IZ
05007G2B
~lit faces
05007G2A 05007G2H
Upside
t
12
II
05007G2D
05007G2N 05007G2C
23. Install the middle bearing on the crankshaft with the clip covering both 40. Install the oil seal housing and tighten the bolts to specification.
split faces of the bearing. 41. Install the exhaust cover and plate. Tighten the exhaust cover bolts to
24. Install the rotating assembly into the cylinder block, making sure the specification.
crankshaft faces the correct way The splined end of the crankshaft should face 42. Install all components previously removed from the cylinder block.
driveshalt housing side.
25. Firmly fit the bearing races onto the locating pins with punch mark V6
stamped on the circumference of the bearings directed upwards.
26. Ensure the flanges of the upper oil seal fit snugly into the groove pro-
vided in crankcase. 1. Remove all components still attached to the powerhead until the unit is
27. Check to be sure that the under bearing stopper pin is resting snugly in down to the bare cylinder block assembly.
the cutaway. 2. Remove the exhaust cover bolts.
28. Make the "C" ring is fitted into groove in the crankcase. 3. Using a pry bar, remove the exhaust cover and plate.
29. Check to be sure that the end gap of the seal rings face up. 4. Remove the silencer cover.
30. Apply marine grease to-the splined portion of the crankshaft. 5. Position the power unit with the case and silencer facing downwards on
31. Install the crankcase and tighten the crankcase nuts to specification a level surface so that it will not fall over.
using the proper tightening sequence.
_.Place protective padding under the inlet case to prevent scratching
_.After the crankcase has been assembled, turn the crankshaft to see the surface.
whether it makes any abnormal noise. If the crankshaft makes any
abnormal noise, disassemble the crankcase to find the trouble. 6. Remove the cylinder head bolts.
7. Tap on the cylinder head with a plastic hammer to remove.
32. Install the piston on the connecting rod. Make sure the arrow on the pis- 8. Remove the oil seal housing.
tons point to the exhaust port 9. Remove the hexagon cylinder bolts.
side. 10. Pulling upward carefully and slowly, remove each cylinder head.
33. Push the piston pin into the piston bore using a brass drift if necessary. 11. Carefully pry the piston pin retainer from its groove on the piston. Then
34. Install new piston pin retainers. repeat the procedure for the other side.
35. Install a new cylinder head gasket and hold it in place with a light film of
grease. _.The circlip will tend to fly when removed. Be ready to catching it as ii
36. Install each cylinder head onto the cylinder block and snug each bolt to comes free.
hold the cylinders in place. 12. Piston pin retainers are only good for one usage, discard the retainers
37. Install the cylinder/crankcase assembly plate (09912-68720) and tighten alter removing them.
the bolts to the specified torque using the proper sequence. 13. Push the piston pin from it bore in the piston using a brass drift if necessary.
38. Tighten the hexagon cylinder bolts to specification using a criss-cross
tightening sequence. _.The piston pin should slide smoothly from its bore. If opposition is
39. Install the cylinder head and tighten the cylinder head bolts to specifica- felt, either the bore is out of round or the pin is bent. Inspect the com-
tion using the proper tightening sequence. ponents and replace as necessary.

POWERHEAD 7-31
Clip
20 16 12 9 13 17
~8'88~D
0 0 0 0
7
19 i5
3
- - -;;:
ii iO
2
;;;
6
05007G2L
05007G2M
05007G2A
Upside
t
20
19
05007G2J
\
05007G2K
05007G2N
14. Remove the piston from the connecting rod. 29. Install the crankcase and tighten the crankcase nuts to specification
15. Place the crankcase on a fabricated wooden stand. using the proper tightening sequence.
16. Remove the inlet cases with the reed valves.
•After the crankcase has been assembled, turn the crankshaft to see
17. Remove the crankcase bolts and lift the rotating assembly out from the
whether it makes any abnormal noise. If the crankshaft makes any
crankcase.
abnormal noise, disassemble the crankcase to find the trouble.
To assemble:
18. Lubricate the seals with marine grease prior to installation. 30. Install the piston on the connecting rod. Make sure the arrow on the pis-
19. Install the top and bottom crankshaft oil seals with the numbers facing tons point to the exhaust port side.
the ends of the crankshaft. 31. Push the piston pin into the piston bore using a brass drift if necessary.
20. Lubricate the rotating assembly with 2-stroke oil prior to installation. 32. Install new piston pin retainers.
21. Install the middle bearing on the crankshaft with the clip covering both 33. Install a new cylinder head gasket and hold it in place with a light film of
split faces of the bearing. grease.
22. Install the rotating assembly into the cylinder block, making sure the 34. Install each cylinder head onto the cylinder block and snug each bolt to
crankshaft faces the correct way. The splined end of the crankshaft should face hold the cylinders in place.
driveshaft housing side. 35. Install the cylinder/crankcase assembly plate (09912-68720) and tighten
23. Firmly fit the bearing races onto the locating pins with punch mark the bolts to the specified torque using the proper sequence.
stamped on the circumference of the bearings directed upwards. 36. Using a special socket (09911-78730), tighten the cylinder bolts to
24. Ensure the flanges of the upper oil seal fit snugly into the groove pro- specification using a criss-cross tightening sequence.
vided in crankcase. 37. Install the cylinder head and tighten the cylinder head bolts to specifica-
25. Check to be sure that the under bearing stopper pin is resting snugly in tion using the proper tightening sequence.
the cutaway. 38. Install the oil seal housing and tighten the bolts to specification.
26. Make the "C" ring is fitted into groove in the crankcase. 39. Install the exhaust cover and plate. Tighten the exhaust cover bolts to
27. Check to be sure that the end gap of the seal rings face up. specification.
28. Apply marine grease to the splined portion of the crankshaft. 40. Install all components previously removed from the cylinder block.

7-32 POWERHEAD
POWERHEAD RECONDITIONING
Determining Powerhead Condition SECONDARY COMPRESSION TEST
Anything that generates heat and/or friction will eventually burn or wear out • See Figure 13
(for example, a light bulb generates heat, therefore its life span is limited). With
this in mind, a running powerhead generates tremendous amounts of both; fric- The actual pressure measured during a secondary compression test is not as
tion is encountered by the moving and rotating parts inside the powerhead and important as the variation from cylinder to cylinder. On multi-cylinder power-
heat is created by friction and combustion of the fuel. However, the powerhead heads, a variation of 15 psi or more is considered questionable. On single
has systems designed to help reduce the effects of heat and friction and provide cylinder powerheads, a drop of 15 psi from the normal compression pressure
added longevity. The oil injection system combines oil with the fuel to reduce you established when it was new is cause for concern (you did do a compres-
the amount of friction encountered by the moving parts inside the powerhead, sion test on it when it was new, didn't you?).
while the cooling system reduces heat created by friction and combustion. If ~II the powerhead been in storage for an extended period, the piston
either system is not maintained, a break-down will be inevitable. Therefore, you rings may have relaxed. This will often lead to initially low and mis-
can see how regular maintenance can affect the service life of your powerhead. leading readings. Always run an engine to operating temperature to
There are a number of methods for evaluating the condition of your power- ensure that the reading you get is accurate.
head. A secondary compression test can reveal the condition of your pistons,
piston rings, cylinder bores and head gasket(s). A primary compression test can 1. Disable the ignition system by removing the lanyard clip. If you do not
determine the condition of all engine seals and gaskets. Because the 2-stroke have a lanyard, take awire jumper lead and connect one end to a good engine
powerhead is a pump, the crankcase must be sealed against pressure created on ground and the other end to the metal connector inside the spark plug boot,
the down stroke of the piston and vacuum created when the piston moves using one jumper for each plug wire. Never simply disconnect all the plug wires.
toward top dead center. If there are air leaks into the crankcase, insufficient fuel
will be brought into the crankcase and into the cylinder for normal combustion. **CAUTION
Removing all the spark plugs and cranking over the powerhead can
PRIMARY COMPRESSION TEST lead to an explosion if raw fuel/oil sprays out of the plug holes. A
plug wire could spark and ignite this mix outside of the combustion
Because the 2-stroke powerhead is a pump, the crankcase must be sealed chamber if it isn't grounded to the engine.
against pressure created on the down stroke of the piston and vacuum created
when the piston moves toward top dead center. If there are air leaks into the 2. Remove all the spark plugs and be sure to keep them in order. Carefully
crankcase, insufficient fuel will be brought into the crankcase and into the cylin- inspect the plugs, looking for any inconsistency in coloration and for any sign
der for normal combustion. of water or rust near the tip.
3. Thread the compression gauge into the No. 1 spark-plug hole, taking
~II it is a very small leak, the powerhead will run poorly, because the
care to not crossthread the fitting.
fuel mixture will be lean and cylinder temperatures will be hotter than
4. Open the throttle to the wide open throttle position and hold it there.
normal.
~some engines allow only minimal opening if the gearshift is in neu-
Air leaks are possible around any seal, 0-ring, cylinder block mating surface
tral, to guard against over-revving.
or gasket. Always replace 0-rings, gaskets and seals when service work is per-
formed. 5. Crank over the engine an equal number of times for each cylinder you
If the powerhead is running, soapy water can be sprayed onto the suspected test, zeroing the gauge for each cylinder.
sealing areas. If bubbles develop, there is a leak at that point. Oil around sealing 6. If you have electric start, count the number of seconds you count. On man-
points and on ignition parts under the flywheel indicates a crankcase leak. ual start, pull the starter rope four to five times for each cylinder you are testing.
The base of the powerhead and lower crankshaft seal is impossible to check 7. Record your readings from each cylinder. When all cylinders are tested,
on an installed powerhead. When every test and system have been checked out
and the bottom cylinder seems to be effecting performance, then the lower seal
should be tested.
Adapter plates available from tool manufacturers to seal the inlet, exhaust
and base of the powerhead. Adapter plates can also be manufactured by cutting
metal block off plates from pieces of plate steel or aluminum. A pattern made
from the gaskets can tJe used for an accurate shape. Seal these plates using
rubber or silicone gasket making compound.
1. Install adapter plates over the intake ports and the exhaust ports to com-
pletely seal the powerhead.
~when installing the adapter plates, make sure to leave the water
jacket holes open.
2. Into one adapter, place an air fitting which will accept a hand air pump.
3. Using the hand pump (or another regulated air source), pressurize the
crankcase to five pounds of pressure.
4. Spray soapy water around the lower seal area and other sealed areas
watching for bubbles which indicate a leaking point.
5. Turn the powerhead upside down and fill the water jacket with water. If
bubbles show up in the in the water when a positive pressure is applied to the
crankcase, there may be cracks or corrosion holes in the cooling system pas-
05003P25
sages. These holes can cause a loss of cooling system effectiveness and lead to
overheating. Fig. 13 The actual pressure measured during a secondary compres-
6. After the pressure test is completed, pull a vacuum to stress the seals in sion test is not as important as the variation from cylinder to cylin-
the opposite direction and watch for a pressure drop. der
7. Note the leaking areas and replace the seals or gaskets.

POWERHEAD 7-33
compare the readings and determine if pressures are within the 15 psi criterion. rebuilding is largely a subjective matter and one of personal worth. Is the power-
8. I! compression readings are lower than normal !or any cylinders, try a head a popular one, or is it an obsolete model? Are parts available? Is the out-
"wet" compression test, which will temporarily seal the piston rings and deter- board it's being put into worth keeping? Would it be less expensive to buy a new
mine if they are the cause of the low reading. powerhead, have your powerhead rebuilt by a pro, rebuild it yourself or buy a
9. Using a can of logging oil, log the cylinder with a circular motion to dis- used powerhead? Or would it be simpler and less expensive to buy another out-
tribute oil spray all around the perimeter of the piston. Retest the cylinder. board? I! you have considered all these matters and more and have still decided
a. I! the compression rises noticeably, the piston rings are sticking. You to rebuild the powerhead, then it is time to decide how you will rebuild it.
may be able to cure the problem by decarboning the powerhead.
,..The editors at Seloc® feel that most powerhead machining should be
b. I! the dry compression was really low and no change is evident during
performed by a professional machine shop. Don't think of ii as wasting
the wet test, the cylinder is dead. The piston and/or are worn beyond specifi-
money, rather, as insurance that the job has been done right the first
cation and a powerhead overhaul or replacement is necessary.
time. There are many expensive and specialized tools required to per-
10. I! two adjacent cylinders on a multi-cylinder engine give a similarly low
form such tasks as boring and honing a powerhead. Even inspecting the
reading then the problem may be a faulty head gasket. This should be suspected
parts requires expensive micrometers and gauges to properly measure
if there was evidence of water or rust on the spark plugs from these cylinders.
wear and clearances. Also, a machine shop can deliver to you clean and
ready to assemble parts, saving you time and aggravation. Your maxi-
Buy or Rebuild? mum savings will come from performing the removal, disassembly,
assembly and installation of the powerhead and purchasing or renting
•See Figures 14 and 15 only the tools required to perform the above tasks. Depending on the
particular circumstances, you may save 40 to 60 percent of the cost
Now that you have determined that your powerhead is worn out, you must
doing these yourself.
make some decisions. The question o! whether or not a powerhead is worth
A complete rebuild or overhaul o! a powerhead involves replacing or recon-
ditioning all of the moving parts (pistons, rods, crankshaft, etc.) with new or
remanu!acturerd ones and machining the non-moving wearing surfaces o! the
block and heads. Unfortunately, this may not be cost effective. For instance,
your crankshaft may have been damaged or worn, but it can be machined !or a
minimal lee.
So, as you can see, you can replace everything inside the powerhead, but, it
is wiser to replace only those parts which are really needed and, if possible,
repair the more expensive ones.
Powerhead Overhaul Tips

•See Figure 16
Most powerhead overhaul procedures are fairly standard. In addition to spe-
cific parts replacement procedures and specifications !or your individual power-
head, this section is also a guide to acceptable rebuilding procedures. Examples
of standard rebuilding practice are given and should be used along with specific
details concerning your particular powerhead.
Competent and accurate machine shop services will ensure maximum perfor-
05003P03 mance, reliability and powerhead life. In most instances it is more pro!itable !or
the do-it-yourself mechanic to remove, clean and inspect the component, buy
Fig. 14 The question of whether or not a powerhead is worth the necessary parts and deliver these to a shop !or actual machine work.
rebuilding is largely a subjective matter and one of personal worth. Much of the assembly work (crankshaft, bearings, pistons, connecting rods
This powerhead is not worth much in its present condition and other components) is well within the scope of the do-it-yourself mechanic's
05003P04
Fig. 15 A burned piston like this one will be replaced during an 05007P28
overhaul. The condition which caused the hole in the top of the pis- Fig. 16 Much of the assembly work (crankshaft, bearings, pistons,
ton must be identified and corrected or the same thing will happen connecting rods and other components) is well within the scope of
again the average do-it-yourself mechanic's tools and abilities

7-34 POWER HEAD
tools and abilities. You will have to decide for yourself the depth of involvement Remove any plugs or pressed-in bearings and carefully wash and degrease
you desire in a powerhead repair or rebuild. all of the powerhead components including the fasteners and bolts. Small parts
should be placed in a metal basket and allowed to soak. Use pipe cleaner type
TOOLS brushes and clean all passageways in the components.
Use a ring expander to remove the rings from the pistons. Clean the piston
The tools required for a powerhead overhaul or parts replacement will ring grooves with a ring groove cleaner or a piece of broken ring. Scrape the
depend on the depth of your involvement. With a few exceptions, they will be carbon off of the top of the piston. You should never use a wire brush on the
the tools found in an average do it yourselfer's tool kit. More in-depth work will pistons. After preparing all of the piston assemblies in this manner, wash and
require some or all of the following: degrease them again.
• A dial indicator (reading in thousandths) mounted on a universal base
• Micrometers and telescope gauges REPAIRING DAMAGED THREADS
• Jaw and screw-type pullers
• Scraper •See Figures 17, 18, 19, 20 and 21
• Ring groove cleaner Several methods of repairing damaged threads are available. Heli-Coil®,
• Piston ring expander and compressor Keenserts® and Microdot® are among the most widely used. All involve basically
• Ridge reamer the same principle-drilling out stripped threads, tapping the hole and
• Cylinder hone or glaze breaker installing a prewound insert-making welding, plugging and oversize fasteners
• Plastigage® unnecessary.
• Powerhead stand Two types of thread repair inserts are usually supplied: a standard type for
The use of most of these tools is illustrated in this section. Many can be most inch coarse, inch fine, metric course and metric fine thread sizes and a
rented for a one-time use from a local parts store or tool supply house. spark lug type to fit most spark plug port sizes. Consult the individual tool man-
Occasionally, the use of special tools is necessary. See the information on ufacturer's catalog to determine exact applications. Typical thread repair kits will
Special Tools and the Safety Notice in the front of this book before substituting contain a selection of prewound threaded inserts, a tap (corresponding to the
another tool. outside diameter threads of the insert) and an installation tool. Spark plug
inserts usually differ because they require a tap equipped with pilot threads and
CAUTIONS a combined reamer/tap section. Most manufacturers also supply blister-packed
thread repair inserts separately in addition to a master kit containing a variety of
Aluminum is extremely popular for use in powerheads, due to its low weight. taps and inserts plus installation tools.
Observe the following precautions when handling aluminum parts: Before attempting to repair a threaded hole, remove any snapped, broken or
• Never hot tank aluminum parts, the caustic hot tank solution will eat the damaged bolts or studs. Penetrating oil can be used to free frozen threads. The
aluminum offending item can usually be removed with locking pliers or using a screw/stud
• Remove all aluminum parts (identification tag, etc.) from powerhead parts extractor. After the hole is clear, the thread can be repaired, as shown in the
prior to hot tanking series of accompanying illustrations and in the kit manufacturer's instructions.
• Always coat threads lightly with oil or anti-seize compounds before instal-
lation, to prevent seizure
• Never overtighten bolts or spark plugs especially in aluminum threads
BOLTOR~11~
When assembling the powerhead, any parts that will be exposed to frictional
contact must be prelubed to provide lubrication at initial start-up. Any product
specifically formulated for this purpose can be used.
When semi-permanent (locked, but removable) installation of bolts or nuts is SCREW ~
desired, threads should be cleaned and coated with Loctite® or another similar,
commercial non-hardening sealant. I · l
THREADED
CLEANING
INSERT -
Before the powerhead and its components are inspected, they must be thor-
oughly cleaned. You will need to remove any varnish, oil sludge and/or carbon DAMAGED~a~
deposits from all of the components to insure an accurate inspection. A crack in THREADS t_:=--)
the block or cylinder head can-easily become overlooked if hidden by a layer of TCCS3039
sludge or carbon.
Fig. 17 Damaged bolt hole threads can be replaced with thread
Most of the cleaning process can be carried out with common hand tools
and readily available solvents or solutions. Carbon deposits can be chipped repair inserts
away using a hammer and a hard wooden chisel. Old gasket material and var-
nish or sludge can usually be removed using a scraper and/or cleaning solvent.
Extremely stubborn deposits may require the use of a power drill with a wire
brush. Always follow any safety recommendations given by the manufacturer of
the tool and/or solvent. You should always wear eye protection during any
cleaning process involving scraping, chipping or spraying of solvents.
~II using a wire brush, use extreme care around any critical machined
surfaces (such as the gasket surfaces, bearing saddles, cylinder bores,
etc.). USE OF A WIRE BRUSH IS NOT RECOMMENDED ON ANY ALUMI·
NUM COMPONENTS.
An alternative to the mess and hassle of cleaning the parts yourself is to drop
them off at a local machine shop. They will, more than likely, have the necessary
equipment to properly clean all of the parts for a nominal fee.
**CAUTION TCCS3040
Fig. 18 Standard thread repair insert (left) and a spark plug thread
Always wear eye protection during any cleaning process involving
scraping, chipping or spraying of solvents. insert

POWER HEAD 7-35
0 ',,~
TCCS3043
Fig. 21 Screw the insert onto the installer

TCCS3041 TCCS3042 tool until the tang engages the slot.
Fig. 19 Drill out the damaged threads with Fig. 20 Using the kit, tap the hole to Thread the insert into the hole until it is
the specified size bit. Be sure to drill com- receive the thread insert. Keep the tap V.-112 turn below the top surface, then
pletely through the hole or to the bottom well oiled and back it out frequently to remove the tool and break of the tang
of a blind hole avoid clogging the threads using a punch
ing that little bracket which holds a wire harness out of the path of a rotating
Powerhead Preparation part.
To properly rebuild a powerhead, you must first remove it from the outboard, You should begin by unbolting any accessories attached to the powerhead.
then disassemble and inspect it. Ideally you should place your powerhead on a Remove any covers remaining on the powerhead. The idea is to reduce the pow-
stand. This affords you the best access to the components. Follow the manufac- erhead to the bare necessities (cylinder head(s), cylinder block, crankshaft, pis-
turer's directions for using the stand with your particular powerhead. tons and connecting rods), plus any other 'in block' components.
Now that you have the powerhead on a stand, it's time to strip it of all but the
necessary components. Before you start disassembling the powerhead, you may Cylinder Block and Head
want to take a moment to draw some pictures, fabricate some labels or get some
containers to mark and hold the various components and the bolts and/or studs
which fasten them. Modern day powerheads use a lot of little brackets and clips GENERAL INFORMATION
which hold wiring harnesses and such and these holders are often mounted on
studs and/or bolts that can be easily mixed up. The manufacturer spent a lot of • See Figures 22 thru 27
time and money designing your outboard and they wouldn't have wasted any of
it by haphazardly placing brackets, clips or fasteners. If it's present when you The cylinder block is made of aluminum and may have cast-in iron cylinder
disassemble it, put it back when you assemble it, you will regret not remember- liners. It is the major part of the powerhead and care must be given to this part
when service work is performed. Mishandling or improper service procedures
05007P67 05007P68
Fig. 24 ... and cylinder head make up
the major components of the cylinder
Fig. 22 The cylinder block . . . Fig. 23 ... crankcase half ... assembly
05007P32
05007P16 05007P31
Fig. 27 To seal the ends of the cylinder
Fig. 25 In this cylinder, an exhaust port Fig. 26 The cylinder block and crankcase assembly around the crankshaft, 0-rings
can be seen above the level of the piston. half are machined to fit together perfectly. are installed around the end caps and
The inlet port is on the opposite side of They provide a cradle for the spinning neoprene seals are installed inside the
the cylinder wall, below the piston crankshaft cap and seal against the crankshaft

7-36 POWERHEAD
performed on this assembly may make scrap out of an otherwise good casting.
The cylinder assembly casting and other major castings on the outboard are 5 6 7 8
expensive and need to be cared for accordingly.
There are three parts to the cylinder assembly, the cylinder block, the cylinder , I
head and the crankcase half. The cylinder block and crankcase half are married 2--f~~~::-==:~~~~~~~~
together and line bored to receive the crankshaft bearings, reed blocks and on some
powerheads sealing rings. After this operation they are treated as one casting.
,..Remember that anything done to the mating surfaces during service 3-+-::=-t-~~~~-+-~~~~-+-~~~'?"-~=-
4
work will change the inner bore diameter for the main bearings, reed
blocks and sealing rings and possibly prevent the block and crankcase
mating surfaces from sealing.
I '
The only service work allowed on the mating surface is a lapping operation
05007G2Z
to remove nicks from the service. Carefully guard this surface when other ser-
vice work is being performed. The different sealing materials used to seal the Fig. 29 When inspecting components for warping, check in multiple
mating surfaces are sealing strips, sealing compound and Loctite®. directions
Since the 2-stroke powerhead operates like a pump with one inlet and one
outlet for each cylinder, special sealing features must be designed into the cylin-
der assembly to seal each individual cylinder in a multi-cylinder powerhead.
Each inlet manifold must be completely sealed both for vacuum and pressure.
One way of doing this internally is with a labyrinth seal, which is located
between two adjacent cylinders next to the crankshaft. It may be of aluminum or
brass, formed in the assembly and machined with small circular grooves run-
ning very close to a machined area on the crankshaft. The tolerance is so close
that fuel residue puddling in the seal effectively completes the seal between the
cylinder block and crankcase halves against the crankshaft. Crankcase pres-
sures are therefore retained to each individual cylinder. No repair of the labyrinth
seal is made. If damage has occurred to the seal, the main bearings have
allowed the crankshaft to run out and rub.
Another method of internal sealing between the crankcases is with seal rings.
These rings are installed in grooves in the crankshaft. When the crankshaft is
installed, the sealing rings mate up to and seal against the web in the cylinder
block crankcase halves and crankshaft. Sealing rings of different thickness are
available for service work. The side tolerance is close, so puddled fuel residue
will effectively complete the seal between crankcases and crankshaft.
To seal the ends of the cylinder assembly around the crankshaft, 0-rings are
installed around the end caps and neoprene seals are installed inside the cap
and seal against the crankshaft. 05007P87
Fig. 30 To help prevent bolts from seizing due to corrosion, coat

INSPECTION
threads with a good antiseize compound
be machined flat by a competent machine shop. Minor warpage may be cured
Everytime the cylinder head is removed, the cylinder head and cylinder block by using emery paper in a figure eight motion on a surface block until the sur-
deck should be checked for warping. Do this with a straight edge or a surface face is true.
block. If the cylinder head or cylinder block deck are warped, the surface should Inspect the cylinder head and cylinder block for cracks and damage to the bolt
holes caused by galvanic corrosion. On models which do not use acylinder head,
check the cylinder dome for holes or cracks caused by overheating and pre-igni-
tion. The spark plug threads may also be damaged by overtorquing the spark plug.
Quite often the small bolts around the cylinder block sealing area are seized
by corrosion. If white powder is evident around the bolts, stop. Galvanic corro-
sion is probably seizing the shank of the bolt and possibly the threads as well.
Putting a wrench on them may just twist the head off, creating one big mess.
Know the strength of the bolt and stop before it breaks. If it does break, don't
reach for an easy out, it won't work.
A good way to service these seized bolts is with localized heat (from a heat gun,
not atorch) and a good penetrating oil. Heat the aluminum casting, not the bolt.
This releases the bolt from the corrosive grip by creating clearance between the
bolt, the corrosion and the aluminum casting. Be careful because too much heat
will melt the casting. Many bolts can be released in this way, preventing drilling out
the total bolt and heli-coiling the hole or tapping the hole for an oversize bolt.
To help prevent bolts from seizing due to corrosion, coat threads with a good
antiseize compound.
Cylinder Bores
05007P63
GENERAL INFORMATION
Fig. 28 Everytime the cylinder head is removed, the cylinder head
and cylinder block deck should be checked for warping using a The purpose of the cylinder bore is to help lock in combustion gases, pro-
straight edge and a feeler gauge vide a guided path for the piston to travel within, provide a lubricated surface for

POWER HEAD 7-37
the piston rings to seal against and transfer heat to the cooling system. These REFINISHING
!unctions are carried out through all engine speeds. To !unction properly the
cylinder has to have a true machined surface and must have the proper finish
If the cylinder is out of round, worn beyond specification, scored or deeply
installed on it to retain lubricant.
scratched, reboring will be necessary. If the cylinder is within specification, it
can be deglazed with a flex hone and new rings installed.
INSPECTION
,..Some cylinders are chrome plated and require special service proce-
• See Figures 31 and 32 dures. Consult a qualified machine shop when dealing with chrome
plated cylinders.
The roundness of the cylinder diameter and the straightness of the cylinder
wall should be inspected carefully. Micrometer readings should be taken at sev- Almost all engine block refinishing must be performed by a machine shop.
eral points to determine the cylinder condition. Start at the bottom using an out- If the cylinders are not to be rebored, then the cylinder glaze can be removed
side micrometer or dial bore gauge. By starting at the bottom, below the area of with a ball hone. When removing cylinder glaze with a ball hone, use a light
ring travel, cylinder bore diameter can be determined and a determination can or penetrating type oil to lubricate the hone. Do not allow the hone to run dry
be made if the powerhead is standard or has been bored oversize. Take the sec- as this may cause excessive scoring of the cylinder bores and wear on the
ond measurement straight up from the first in the area of the ports and note that hone. If new pistons are required, they will need to be installed to the con-
the cylinder is larger here. This is the area where the rings ride and it has worn necting rods. This should be performed by a machine shop as the pistons
slightly. Take the third measurement within a hall inch of the top of the cylinder, must be installed in the correct relationship to the rod or engine damage can
straight up from where the second measurement was taken. These three mea- occur.
surements should be repeated with the measuring instrument turned 90° clock- When deglazing, it is important to retain the factory surface of the cylinder
wise. wall. The cross-hatched patter on the cylinder wall is used to retain oil and seal
Alter the readings are taken, you will have enough information to access the the rings. As the piston rings move up and down the wall, a glaze develops. The
cylinder condition. This will tell you if the rings can simply be replaced or if the hone is used to remove this glaze and reestablish the basket weave pattern. The
cylinder will need to be overbored. While measuring the cylinder, you should pattern and the finish is has a satin look and makes an excellent surface for
also be noting if there is a cross-hatched pattern on the cylinder walls. Also good retention of 2-stroke oil on the cylinder wall.
note any sculling or deep scratches. There is nothing magic about the crosshatch angle but there should be one
similar to what the factory used. (approximately 20-40°). Too steep an angle or
too flat a pattern is not acceptable and as it is not good for ring seating. Since
the hone reverses as it is being pushed down and pulled up the cylinder wall,
many different angles are created. Multiple criss-crossing angles are the secret
for longevity of the cylinder and the rings. The pattern allows 2-stroke oil to
flow under the piston ring bearing surface and prevents a metal-to-metal contact
between the cylinder wall and piston ring. The satin finish is necessary to pre-
vent early break-in scuffing and to seat the ring correctly.
After the cylinder hone operation has been completed, one very important job
remains. The grit that was developed in the machining process must be thor-
oughly cleaned up. Grit left in the powerhead will find its way into the bearings
and piston rings and become embedded into the piston skirts, effectively grind-
ing away at these precision parts. Relate this to emery paper applied to a piece
of steel or steel against a grinding stone. The effect is removal of material from
the steel. Grit left in the powerhead will damage internal components in a very
short time.
Wiping down the cylinder bores with an oil or solvent soaked rag does not
remove grit. Cleaning must be thorough so that all abrasive grit material has
been removed from the cylinders. It is important to use a scrub brush and
plenty of soapy water. Remember that aluminum is not safe with all cleaning
compounds, so use a mild dish washing detergent that is designed to remove
05007G2Y grease. Alter the cylinder is thought to be clean, use a white paper towel to test
the cylinder. Rub the paper towel up and down on the cylinder and look for the
Fig. 31 The roundness of the cylinder diameter and the straightness presence of gray color on the towel. The gray color is grit. Re-scrub the cylinder
of the cylinder wall should be inspected using a dial bore gauge until it is perfectly clean and passes the paper towel test. When the cylinder
passes the test, immediately coat it with 2-stroke oil to prevent rust from form-
ing.
,..Rust forms very quickly on clean, oil free metal. Immediately coat all
clean metal with 2-stroke oil to prevent the formation of rust.
o~.m··~.~
._L \,
Pistons
~
.! GENERAL INFORMATION
' i ~
. '
o~o~ Piston are the moveable end of a cylinder. The cylinder bore provides a
guided path for the piston allowing a small clearance between the piston skirt
0 f and cylinder wall. This clearance allows for piston expansion and controls pis-
-~-..0·
ton rock within the cylinder.
Modern piston design is such that the head of the piston directs incoming
05007G2X fuel toward the top of the cylinder and outgoing exhaust to the exhaust port in
the cylinder wall. This design is called a deflector type piston head. The deflec-
Fig. 32 Readings should be taken at several points to determine the
tor dome deflects the incoming fuel upward to the spark plug end of the cylin-
cylinder condition. Start at the bottom and work your way to the top der, partially cooling the cylinder and spark plug tip. It also purges the spent

7-38 POWER HEAD
05003P49 05007P44
Fig. 33 A hole placed in the side of the Fig. 34 The piston has machined grooves 05007P59
piston, commonly referred to as the piston in which the rings are installed. They are
boss, is used to mount the piston to the carried along with the piston as it travels Fig. 35 There is one small pin in each ring
piston pin up and down the cylinder wall groove to prevent the ring from rotating
INSPECTION
--
JJ:~;;;;r=~---~ -- -~~ • See Figures 37 and 38
----
The piston needs to be inspected !or damage. Check the head !or erosion
caused by excessive heat, lean mixtures and out of specification timing/syn-
chronization. Examine the ring land area to see if it is !lat and not rounded
over. Also look for burned through areas caused by preignition. Check the
skirt for scoring caused by a break through of the oil film, excessive cylinder
wall temperatures, incorrect timing/synchronization or inadequate lubrica-
tion.
To measure the piston diameter, place an outside micrometer on the piston
skirt at the specified location. All pistons in a given powerhead should read the
same. Check the specifications for placement of the micrometer when measur-
ing pistons. Generally there is a specific place on the piston. This is especially
true of barrel shaped pistons that are larger in the middle than they are at the
top and bottom.
I! the piston looks reasonably good alter cleaning, take a close look at
the ring lands. Wear may develop on the bottom of the ring lands. This
05007G2W wear is usually uneven, causing the ring to push on the higher areas and
Fig. 36 Piston diameter should be measured at a specific position loads the ring unevenly when inertia is the greatest. Such uneven support
of the ring will cause ring breakage and the piston will need to be re-
on the piston which the manufacturer will specify
placed.
When installing a new ring in the groove, measure the ring side clearance
gases from the cylinder. In essence, the incoming fuel charge is chasing out the against specification. Also check the see if the ring pins are there and that they
exhaust gases from the cylinder. have not loosened. Measure the skirt to see if the piston is collapsed.
Not all piston designs are of the deflector head type. Other pistons have a
small convex crown on the piston head. In this case, port design aids in direct-
ing the incoming fuel upward. The piston head bears the brunt of the combus-
tion force and heat. Most of the heat is transferred from the piston head through
the rings to the cylinder wall and then on to the cooling system.
The piston design can be round, cam ground or barrel shaped. The cam
ground design allows !or expansion of the piston in a controlled manner. As the
piston heats up, expansion take place and the piston moves out along the piston
pin becoming more round as it warms up. Barrel shaped pistons rock very
slightly in the bore which helps to keep the rings free.
The piston has machined ring grooves in which the rings are installed. They
are carried along with the piston as it travels up and down the cylinder wall.
There is one small pin in each ring groove to prevent the ring from rotating. The
piston skirt is the bearing area !or thrust and rides on the cylinder wall oil film.
The side thrust of the piston is dependent upon piston pin location. I! the pin is
in the center of the piston, then there will be more thrust. I! the pin is o!!set a
few thousandths of an inch from the center of the piston, there will be less
thrust. A used piston will have one side of the piston skirt show more signs of
wear than the opposite side. The side showing wear is the major thrust side.
Thrust is caused by the pendulum action of the rod following the crankshaft
rotation, which pulls the rod out from under the piston. The combustion pres-
sure therefore pushes and thrusts the piston skirt against the cylinder wall. 05003P07
Some heat is also transferred at this point. The other skirt receives only minor Fig. 37 This piston is severely scored from lack of lubrication and
pressure. Some pistons have small grooves circling the skirts to retain oil in the
should not be reused
critical area between the skirt and the cylinder wall.

POWER HEAD 7-39
05007P15 05007P40
Fig. 38 Pistons should be installed with the arrow facing the exhaust
port Fig. 40 ... a similar hole in the connecting rod also oils the pin
Piston Pins
GENERAL INFORMATION
• See Figures 39, 40, and 41

A hole placed in the side of the piston, commonly referred to as the piston
boss, is used to mount the piston to the piston pin. The combustion pressure
is transferred to the piston pin and connecting rod bearing, then on to the
crankshaft where it is converted to rotary motion. The pin is fitted to the pis-
ton bosses. The piston pin is the inner bearing race for the bearing mounted
in the small end of the connecting rod. This transfers the combustion pres-
sures into the connecting rod and allows the rod to swing with a pendulum-
like action.
Piston pins are secured into both piston bosses. All have retainers and in
addition some use a press fit to secure the pin. There are some models which
use a slip fit. These may require special installation techniques.
Another type of pin fitting is loose on one side and tight on the other. This
type aids in removal of the pin without collapsing the piston. With this design, 05007P37
always press on the pin from the loose boss side. The piston is marked on the Fig. 41 This piston uses a floating pin design. Once the retainers
inside of the piston skirt with the word "loose" to identify the loose boss.
are removed, the pin should slide out easily
Always press with the loose side up and press the pin all the way through and
out. When installing, press with the loose side up.
In all pressing operations, set the piston in a cradle block to support the
piston. Some pistons require heating to expand the piston bosses so the pin
can be pressed out without collapsing the piston. Other pistons just have a slip
fit.
INSPECTION
• See Figures 42, 43, 44, 45 and 46

Check the piston pin retainer grooves for evidence of the retainers moving as
they may have been distorted. Always replace the retainers once they have been
removed. If there is evidence of wear in any of these areas, the piston should be
replaced.
Inspect piston pin for wear in the bearing area. Rust marks caused by water
will leave a needle bearing imprint. Chatter marks on the pin indicate that the
piston pin should be replaced. If these marks are not too heavy, they may possi-
bly be cleaned with emery paper for loose needle bearings or crocus cloth for
05007P45 caged bearings.
Fig. 39 The holes in the bottom of this piston pin bore provide oiling If the piston pin checks out visually, measure its outside diameter and com-
pare that measurement with the inside diameter of the piston pin bore. Proper
to the piston pin . . .
clearance is vital to providing enough lubrication.

7-40 POWER HEAD
05007P71
05007P83
Fig. 42 Measuring the piston pin bore inside diameter. This reading Fig. 43 Measuring the piston pin outside diameter with an outside
will be compared with the piston pin outside diameter to determine micrometer at the point where the pin aligns with the piston pin
pin-to-bore clearance bore . ..
05007P38 05007P39
05007P70
Fig. 46 The small end bore in the connect-
Fig. 44 ... and also at the point where Fig. 45 Typical caged bearing design used ing rod must be perfectally round to pre-
the pin aligns with the connecting rod bore to support piston pins vent bearing troubles
ning powerhead they expand, thereby requiring a specific end gap between the
Piston Rings ring ends for expansion. This ring gap decreases upon warm-up, effectively lim-
iting blowing gases (from the combustion process) from going into the
GENERAL INFORMATION crankcase. The rings ride in a piston ring groove with minimal side clearance,
which gives them support as they move up and down the cylinder wall. With
• See Figure 47 this support, combustion gas pressure and oil effectively seal the piston ring
The piston ring seals the piston to the cylinder bore, just as other seals are
used on the crankshaft and lower unit. To perform correctly, the rings must con-
form to the cylinder wall and maintain adequate pressure to insure their sealing
action at required operating speeds and temperatures. There are different
designs used throughout the outboard industry. A given manufacturer will select
a ring design that meets the operating requirements of the powerhead. This may
be a standard ring, a pressure back (Keystone) ring or a combination of rings.
The functions of the piston ring include sealing the combustion gases so
they cannot pass between the piston and the cylinder wall into the crankcase
upsetting the pulse and maintaining an oil film in conjunction with the cylinder
wall finish throughout the ring travel area. The rings also transfer heat picked up
by the piston during combustion. This heat is transferred into the cylinder wall
and thus to the cooling system. There are either two or three rings per piston,
which perform these functions.
_.An oil control ring is not used on 2-stroke engines.
All piston rings used are of the compression type. This means that they are
for sealing the clearance between piston and cylinder wall. They are not allowed
to rotate on the piston as automotive piston rings do. They are prevented from
rotating by a pin n the piston ring groove. If the ring was allowed to turn, a ring
05007P69
end could snap into the cylinder port and become broken. The ring ends are
specially machined to compensate for the pin. As the rings warm up in a run- Fig. 47 The piston ring seals the piston to the cylinder bore

POWERHEAD 7-41
against the ring land and the cylinder wall. As long as the oil mix is correct and groove and using a feeler gauge, measure between the ring and the piston ring
temperatures remain where they should, the rings will provide service for many land. Compare this measurement against the specifications. If the measurement
hours of operation. is too small, the ring groove may be compressed. Inspect the ring groove and
ring land condition. If it is too large the ring may not correct for the powerhead.
INSPECTION
• See Figures 48, 49, 50, 51 and 52

Connecting Rods
One of the first indications of ring trouble is the loss of compression and GENERAL INFORMATION
performance. When compression has been lost or lowered because of the ring
not sealing, the ring is either broken or stuck with carbon, gum or varnish.
Improper oil mixing and stale gasoline provide the carbon, gum and varnish The connecting rod transfers the combustion pressure from the piston
which cause the rings to stick. Low octane fuel, improperly adjusted timing/syn- pin to the crankshaft, changing the vertical motion into rotary. m?tion. In doing
chronization and lean fuel mixtures can damage the ring land, causing the ring so, the connecting rod swings back and forth on the piston pin like a pendulum
to stick or break. while it is traveling up and down. It goes down by combustion pressure and
goes up by flywheel momentum and/or other power strokes on a multi-cylinder
~ Running the outboard out of the water for even a few seconds can have powerhead. The connecting rod can be of aluminum on smaller horsepower
damaging effects on the rings, pistons, cylinder walls and water pump. fishing outboards or of steel on larger horsepower models.
Most connecting rod designs use a steel liner with needle bearings in the
To determine if the rings fit the cylinder and piston, two measurements are
large end and a pressed-in needle bearing in the small end. .
taken; ring gap and ring side clearance. To determine these measurements, the
The steel rod is a bearing race at both the large and small ends of the rod. It 1s
ring is pushed into the cylinder bore using the piston skirt, so it will be square.
hardened to withstand the rolling pressures applied from the loose or caged nee-
Position each ring, one at a time, at the bottom of the cylinder (the smallest
dle bearings. Unlike many connecting rod designs, these rods do not use two
diameter) and using a feeler gauge, measure the expansion space between the
piece caps. The connecting rod big end is one piece. This requires the crankshaft
ring ends. This is known as the ring gap measurement. Compare this measure-
to be pressed together to form a rotating assembly with the connecting rods.
ment against the specifications. If the measurement is too small, the ring must
The connecting rods are mist lubricated. Some of the rods have a trough
be filed to increase the gap. If it is too large, either the bore is too large or the
design in the shank area. Oil holes may be drilled into the bearing area at both
ring is not correct for the powerhead.
ends of this trough. Oil mist that falls out of the fuel will settle into the rod
After ring end gap has been determined, position each ring in the piston ring
trough and collect. As the rod moves in and out, the oil is sloshed back and
05007P62
05007P42
Fig. 48 To determine ring gap, use a feeler gauge to measure the
expansion space between the ring ends with the ring installed in the
cylinder Fig. 49 Some rings are square ...
05007G38
05007P41 Fig. 51 When installing rings, place the 05007G2U
ring in the groove and work it around the Fig. 52 Decarbon the piston rings using a
Fig. 50 ... while other rings have a piston using a spiral motion until the ring ring groove cleaner or a broken piece of
notched shape is properly seated piston ring

7-42 POWERHEAD
forth in the trough and out the oil holes into the rod or piston pin bearings. This
provides sufficient lubrication for these bearings. When the rod is equipped with
oil holes, the oil holes have to be placed in the upward position toward the
tapered end of the crankshaft when reassembled.
INSPECTION

Damage to the connecting rod can be caused by lack of lubrication and will
result in galling of the bearing and eventual seizing to the crankshaft Over
speeding of the powerhead may also cause the upper shank area of the rod to
stretch and break near the piston pin.
Steel rods are inspected in the bearing areas, much like you would inspect a
roller bearing. Look for scoring, pit marks, chatter marks, rust and color change.
A blue color indicates overheating of the bearing surface. Minor rust marks or
scoring may be cleaned up using crocus cloth for caged needle bearings or
emery paper for loose needle bearings. A piece of round stock, cut with a slot in
one end to accept a small piece of emery paper and mounted in a drill motor,
can be used to clean up the rod ends. 05007P78
The rod also needs to be checked to see if it is bent or has a twist in it To do Fig. 55 ... the rotating assembly is then lifted into position and
this, remove the piston and place the rod on a surface plate or a piece of flat
glass (automotive widow). Using a flash light behind the rod and looking from the pistons are then aligned with the bores . . .
in front of the rod, check for any light which can be seen under the rod ends. If
light can be seen shining under the rod ends, the rod is bent and it must be
replaced. You can also use a .002 feeler gauge. See if it will start under the
machined area of the rod. If it will, the rod is bent Examine the rod bolts and
studs for damage and replace the nuts where used. Always reinstall the rod back
on the same journal from which it was removed. The needle bearings, rod bear-
05007G2Q
Fig. 53 Conencting rods should be checked for side clearance with
the crankshaft journals as illustrated Fig. 56 ... the pistons are slipped into their bores ...
05007P77
Fig. 54 Rotating assembly installation starts by compressing the

piston rings with clamps . . . Fig. 57 ... and the clamps are removed ...

POWERHEAD 7-43
05007P88 05007G3F
Fig. 58 ... the crankcase can then be torqued into place Fig. 60 Crankshaft assembly-single cylinder powerhead
ing surface and crankshaft journal are all mated to each other once the power-
head has been run.
~when installing the connecting rod, the long sloping side must be
installed toward the exhaust side of the cylinder assembly and if there
is a hole in the connecting rod, position the oil hole upward. Some pis-
ton designs are marked with the word "UP". This side should be placed
toward the tapered end of the crankshaft.
The Crankshaft
GENERAL INFORMATION

The crankshaft is used to convert vertical motion received from the mounted
connecting rod into rotary motion, which turns the driveshaft. It mounts the fly-
wheel, which imparts a momentum to smooth out pulses between power
1 Shim 11 Lower oil seal housing

2 Crankshaft assy 12 Crank pin
3 Upper crankshaft 13 Crank pin bearing
4 Upper crankshaft wheel 14 Connecting rod
5 Bearing 15 Circlip
6 Oil seal 16 Piston pin bearing
7 Lower crankshaft wheel 17 Piston pin
8 Lower crankshaft 18 Piston
9 Oil seal 19 Piston ring
10 Lower oil seal gasket 20 Oil seal
05007G3G
05007G3E
Fig. 59 Crankshaft assembly-V-type powerhead Fig. 61 Crankshaft assembly-multiple cylinder inline powerhead

7-44 POWERHEAD
strokes. It also provides sealing surfaces for the upper and lower seals and pro- The crankshaft cannot be repaired because of the case hardening and the
vides a surface for the labyrinth seal to hold oil against and a groove in which possibility of changing the metallurgical properties of the material during the
sealing rings are installed to seal pressures into each crankcase. Mounted main welding and machine operation. Also, there are no oversized bearings available.
bearings control the axial movement of the crankshaft as it accomplishes these Repairs are limited to cleaning up the journal surface with 320 emery paper
functions. The crankshaft bearing journals are case hardened to be able to with- when loose needle bearings are run on the journal. Where caged roller bearings
stand the stresses applied by the floating needle bearings used for connecting are run, the journal may be polished with crocus cloth.
rod and main bearings. In essence, the crankshaft journals are the inner bearing The tapered end of the crankshaft has a spline or a keyway and key which
races for the needle bearings times the flywheel to the crankshaft. Inspect the spline or key and keyway for
damage. The crankshaft taper should be clean and free of scoring, rust and
INSPECTION lubrication. The taper must match the flywheel hub. If someone has hit the fly-
wheel with a heavy hammer or has used an improper puller to remove the fly-
• See Figures 62 and 63 wheel, the flywheel and hub may be warped. Place the flywheel on the tapered
end of the crankshaft and check the fit. If there is any rocking indication a dis-
Pressure from the power stoke applied to the crankshaft rod journal by the torted hub, replace the flywheel. Always use a puller which pulls from the bolt
needle bearings has a tendency to wear the journal on one side. During crank- pattern or threaded inner hub of the flywheel. Never use a puller on the outside
shaft inspection, the journals should also be measured with a micrometer to of the flywheel.
determine if they are round and straight. They should also be inspected for The taper is used to lock the flywheel hub to the crankshaft. When mounting
scoring, pitting, rust marks, chatter marks and discoloration caused by heat. the flywheel to the crankshaft the taper on the crankshaft an in the flywheel hub
Check the sealing surfaces for grooves worn in by the upper and lower must be cleaned with a fast evaporating solvent. No lubrication on the crank-
crankshaft seals. Take a look at the splined area which receives the driveshaft. shaft taper or flywheel hub should be done. The flywheel nut must be torqued to
Inspect the side of the splines for wear. This wear can be caused by lack of specification to obtain a press fit between the flywheel hub and the crankshaft
lubrication or improper lubricant applied during a seasonal service. An exhaust taper. If the nut is not brought to specifications, the flywheel may spin on the
housing/lower unit that has received a sudden impact can be warped and this crankshaft causing major damage.
can also cause spline damage in the crankshaft. The flywheel key is for alignment purposes and sets the flywheel's relative
position to the crankshaft. Check the key for partial shearing on the side. If there
is any indication of shearing, replace the key. Also check the keyway in the fly-
wheel and crankshaft for damage. If there is damage which will allow incorrect
positioning of the flywheel, the powerhead timing will be off.
Bearings
GENERAL INFORMATION
• See Figure 64
Needle bearings are used to carry the load which is applied to the piston and
rod. This load is developed in the combustion process and the bearings reduce
the friction between the crankshaft and the connecting rod. They roll with little
effort and at times have been referred to as anti-friction bearings, as they reduce
friction by reducing the surface area that is in contact with the crankshaft and
the connecting rod. These needle bearings are of two types, loose and caged.
When loose bearings are used, there can be upwards to 32 loose bearings float-
ing between the rod journal of the crankshaft and the connecting rod. These
05007P82 bearings are aided in rolling by the movement of the crank pin journal and the
Fig. 62 Crankshaft seals should always be lubricated prior to instal- connecting rod pendulum action. The surface installed on the journal and rod
lation encourages needle rotation because of its relative roughness. If the journal and
rod surface was polished with crocus cloth, the loose needle bearings would
05007P94
Fig. 63 Most cranshafts use two types of seals, an 0-ring and seal- 05007P46
ing ring Fig. 64 Typical caged bearing assembly

POWER HEAD 7-45
have the tendency to scoot, wearing both surfaces. So, journals and rods which to a satisfactory condition. This is done using crocus cloth for caged needle
uses the loose needle bearings are cleaned up sing 320 grit emery paper. bearings and 320 grit emery paper for loose needle bearings. This is not a metal
Caged needle bearings used a reduced number of needles and the needles removing process, rather just a clean up of the surfaces.
are kept separated and are encouraged to roll by the cage. The cage also con- Needle bearings are used as main bearings and are inspected for the same
trols end movement of the bearings. Because of the cage, the journal and rod conditions as listed above. There are no oversized bearings available for rod or
surfaces can be smoother, so these surfaces are polished with crocus cloth. main bearings. Because of the hardness of the crankshaft (a bearing race), it
Main bearings are used to mount and control the axial movement of the should not be turned or welded up in order to bring it back to standard size. The
crankshaft They are either ball, needle or split race needle bearings. The split welding process may stress the metallurgical properties of the crankshaft, devel-
race needle bearings are held together with a ring and are sandwiched between oping cracks.
the crankcase and cylinder assembly. The split race bearings are commonly The caged rod bearings and split race main bearings are inspected for the
used as center main bearings, as this is the only type of bearing that can be same condition as loose needle bearings, plus the cage is examined for wear,
easily installed in this location. The ball bearings may be mounted as top or cracks and breaks.
bottom mains on the crankshaft Ball bearings are used for top and bottom main bearings in some power-
The bearing is made up of three parts-the inner race, needle and the outer heads. These may be pressed onto the crankshaft or pressed into the end cap.
race. In most industrial applications, the outer or inner race of a needle bearing To examine these bearings, wash, dry, oil and check them on the crankshaft or
assembly is held in a fixed position by a housing or shaft The connecting rod in the bearing cap. Turn the bearing by hand and feel if there is any roughness
needle bearings in the outboard powerhead have the same basic parts, but differ or catching. Try to wobble the bearing by grasping the outer race, (inner race)
in that both inner and outer races are in motion. The outer race-the connecting checking for looseness of the bearing. Replace the bearing if any of these condi-
rod-is swinging like a clock pendulum. The inner race-the crankshaft-is tions are found. If the bearing is pressed off (out) the bearing will probably be
rotating and the needle bearing is floating between the two races. damaged and should be replaced.
If new or usfd bearings are contaminated with grit or dirt particles at the time
INSPECTION of installation, abrasion will naturally follow. Many bearing failures are due to
the introduction of foreign material into the internal parts of the bearing during
When the powerhead is disassembled and inspection of the parts is made, assembly. Misalignment of the rod cap,, torque of the rod bolts and lack of
then by necessity along with examining the needle bearings, the crankshaft main proper lubrication also cause failures. Bearing failure is usually detected by a
bearing journal, rod journal and connecting rod bearing surfaces are also exam- gradual rise in operating noise, excessive looseness (axial) in the bearing and
ined. The surfaces of all three of these parts can give a tremendous amount of shaft deflection. Keep the work area clean and use needle bearing grease or
information and the examination will determine if the parts are reusable. multipurpose grease to hold the bearings in place. This grease will dissipate
Surfaces should be examined for scoring, pitting, chatter marks, rust marks, quickly as the fuel mixture comes in contact with it Do not use a wheel bearing
spalling and discoloration from overheating of the bearing surfaces. Minor scor- or chassis grease as this will cause damage to the bearings. Oil the ball bear-
ing or pitting and rust marks may be cleaned up and the surfaces brought back ings with 2-stroke oil upon installation. Remember to keep them clean.
05007P55
Exploded view of a typical powerhead showing major components

7-46 POWERHEAD
Engine Torque Specifications
Component Diameter Standard (ft. lbs.) Metric (Nm)
Conventional bolUnut
5mm 1.5-3 2-4
6mm 3-5 4-7
Bmm 7-11.5 10-16
10mm 16-25.5 22-35
Stainless steel bolt/nut

5mm 1.5-3 2-4
6mm 4.5-7 6-10
8mm 11-14.5 15-20
10mm 24.5-29.5 34-41
Clamp bracket
DT4,DT5Y 17.5-19 24-26
DT9.9, DT15, DT35, DT40 2-2.5 20-25
DT15C 16.5-18 23-25
DT25C,DT30C,DT55,DT65,DT75,DT85 29.5-32.5 41-45
DT90,DT100, DT150,DT175,DT200,DT225
Clamp bracket shaft

DT115,DT140,DT150,DT175,DT200 31 43
Crankcase
DT2, DT4, DT5Y, DT9.9, DT15, DT25C, DT30C, 6-8.5 8-12
DT35,DT40,DT55,DT65
DT15C 14.5-19 20-26
DT35,DT40,DT55,DT65,DT75,85 33.5-39 46-54
DT115, DT140 8mm 16.5 23
DT115, DT140 10mm 36 50
Crankcase
DT150,DT175,DT200 6mm 10 14
8mm 14.5-19 20-26
12mm 54 75
DT225 8mm 14.5-19 20-26
10mm 33.5-39 46-54
Cylinder head -
DT6, DT8, DT9.9, DT15, DT35, DT40 14.5-19 20-26
DT15C, DT55, DT65 15-18 21-25
DT25C, DT30C 6-8.5 8-12
DT75,DT85, DT90,DT100 33.5-39.5 46-54
DT90, DT100 20-23 28-32
DT115, DT140 8mm 14.5-19 20-26
10mm 33.5-39.5 46-54
DT150, DT175, DT200 8mm 21.5 30
10mm 54 75
DT225 8mm 20-23 28-32
12mm 33.5-39.5 46-54
Cylinder head cover 6·5.5 5·12

POWE RHEAD 7.47

Drive shaft housing
DT55, DT65 1.5-2 15-20
DT75,85 6-8.5 8-12
DT90,DT100,DT150,DT175, DT200,DT225 24.5-29.5 34-41
DT115, DT140 13 18
Engine holder
DT4, DT5Y, DT9.9, DT15, DT25C, DT30C, 11-14.5 15-20
DT35,DT40,DT90,DT100
DT55,DT65,DT75,DT85 13-20 18-28
DT200 8rnm 11-14.5 15-20
10mm 24.5-29.5 34-41
DT225 8mrn 11-14.5 15-20
10mm 24.5-29.5 34-41
Exhaust cover
DT6,DT8 3-5 4-7
Except DT6, DT8 6-8.5 8-12
Exhaust tube
DT35, DT40, DT55, DT65, DT75, 6-8.5 8-12
DT85,DT90,DT100,DT225
DT115, DT140 6rnm 6 8
DT115, DT140 8rnm 13 18
DT150,DT175,DT200 14.5 20
Exhaust tube housing

DT150, DT175,DT200 14.5 20
Except DT150, DT175, DT200 6-8.5 8-12
Flywheel
DT2 29-36 40-50
DT4,DT5Y 32.5 45
DT6,DT8 43.5-50.5 60-70
DT9.9, DT15 58-65 80-90
DT20 72.5-79.5 100-110
DT25C,DT30C 94-108.5 130-150
DT35,DT40,DT55,DT65 20-21 200-210
DT75,85 144.5-152 200-210
DT90, DT100 DT115, DT140, DT150, 180-188 250-260
DT175,DT200, DT225
Gear case
DT4, DT5Y, DT6, DT8, DT9.9, DT15, DT35, DT4C 11-14.5 15-20
DT55, DT65 8mm 11-14.5 15-20
DT55, DT65 10mm 24.5-29.5 34-41
DT75, 85 8mm 11-14.5 15-20
DT75,85 10mm 24.5-29.5 34-41
DT90,DT100,DT150,DT175,DT200,DT225 36-43.5 50-60
DT115, DT140 40 55

7-48 POWERHEAD

Gearcase mounting 11-14.5 15-20
Lower mounting
DT9.9, DT15, DT1 SC 11-14.5 15-20
DT25C, DT30C 18-19.5 25-27
DT35, DT40 33.5-39 46-54
DT55, DT65 5.6-6.4 56-64
DT75, 85 40.5-46.5 5.6-6.4
DT90, DT100, DT115, DT140 DT150, 65-72.5 90-100
DT175,DT200,DT225
DT150, DT175, DT200 68.5 95
Pinion
DT25C, DT30C 19.5-21.5 27-30
DT35,DT40,DT55,DT65 21.5-29 30-40
DT75,85 50-58 70-80
DT90, DT100 58-72.5 80-100
DT115, DT140 68.5 95
DT150,DT175,DT200,DT225 101.5-108.5 140-150
Power unit mounting

DT115, DT140 32 44
DT150,DT175,DT200 8mm 16.5 23
DT150, DT175,DT200 10mm 32 44
Propeller
DT9.9, DT15, DT35, DT40, DT75, DT85, 36-43.5 50-60
DT115, DT140, DT150, DT175, DT200
DT15C 12.5-14.5 17-20
DT25C, DT30C 21-22.5 29-31
Propeller shaft bearing

DT4,DT5Y,DT15C,DT25C,DT30C 4.5-7 6-10
DT35,DT40,DT55,DT65,DT75,DT85 11-12.5 15-20
DT115, DT140 13 18
DT150,DT175,DT200 137.5 190
Propeller shaft housing stopper

DT90, DT100 108.5-123 150-170
DT150,DT175,DT200,DT225 130-144.5 180-200
Propeller shaft 36-45 50-62
PT unit 11-14.5 15-20
PTT unit
DT75,85 3.5-5 5-7
DT115, DT140
Tilt Cylinder 94 130
Trim Cylinder 58 80

POWERHEAD 7-49

Union fuel filter 18-25.5 25-35
Upper mount
DT9.9, DT15, DT1 SC 11-14.5 15-20
DT25C,DT30C,DT35,DT40,DT55,DT65 24.5-29.5 34-41
DT90, DT100, DT115, DT140, DT150, 40.5-46.5 56-64
DT175,DT200,DT200,DT225
Water pump case

DT35, DT40 4.5-7 6-10
Except DT35, DT40 11-14.5 15-20
Engine Rebuilding Specifications-DT2

Standard Service Limit
Component Standard (in.) Metric(mm) Standard (in.) Metric(mm)
Crankshaft deflection 0.0012 0.03

Conrod deflection 0.12
Cylinder head distortion 0.0012 0.03
Cylinder distortion 0.0012 0.03
Piston diameter 1.6118-1.6124 40.940-40.955
Cylinder bore 1.6142-1.6148 41.000-41.015
Piston to cylinder clearance 0-0020-0.0026 0.052-0.067 0.0058 0.147
Piston diameter measunng position CD 0.6 15
Cylinder measunng position Gl 0.9 22
Wear on cylinder bore 0.004 0.1
Piston pin diameter 0.4723-0.4724 11.996-12.000 0.4717 11.98
Piston pin hole diameter 0.4724-0.4727 11.998-12.006 0.4736 12.03
Piston nng end gap
1st 0.004-0.010 0.10-0.25 0.024 0.6
2nd 0.004-0.012 0.10-0.30 0.024 0.6
Maximum reed stop opening 0.15-0.17 3.8-4.2
Reed seat clearance 0.008 0.2
(1) From piston skirt end
@ From cylinder top surface

7-50 POWE RHEAD
Engine Rebuilding Specifications-DT2.2
Component Standard (in.) Metric(mm) Standard (in.) Metric (mm)
Crankshaft runout 0.000-0.002 0.00-0.05 0.0039 0.10

Conrod deflection 0.12 3.0
Piston diameter 1.6905-1.6911 42.940-42.955
Cylinder bore 1.6929-1.6935 43.000-43.015
Piston to cylinder clearance 0.0020-0.0026 0.052-0067 0.0058 0.147
Piston diameter measuring position(]) 0.6 15
Cylinder measuring position @ 0.9 22
Piston ring end gap 0.004-0.012 0.10-0.30
Reed to seat clearance 0.008 0.20
<D From piston skirt end
® From cylinder top surface
Engine Rebuilding specitications-DT4 and DT5Y

DT4 DTSY
Crankshaft deflection 0.002 0.05 0.002 0.05

Conrod defection 0.16 4.0 0.16 4.0
Piston diameter 1.9961-1.9967 49.940-49.955 2.1630-2.1636 54.940 - 54.955
Cylinder bore 1.9685-1.9691 50.000-50.015 2.1654-2.1659 55.000 -55.015
Piston to cylinder clearance 0.0020-0.0026 0.052-0.067 0.0020 - 0.0026 0.052 - 0.067
Piston diameter measuring position A 0.7 19 0.7 19
Cylinder measuring position B 4.3 110 0.9 23
Wear on cylinder bore 0.004 0.10 0.004 0.10
Piston pin diameter 0.4722-0.4724 11.995-12.000 0.4722 - 0.4724 11.995 - 12.000
Piston pin hole diameter 0.4725-0.4728 12.002-12.010 0.4725 - 0.4728 12.002 -12.010
Piston ring end gap 0.006-0.014 0.15-0.35 0.006 -0.12 0.15- .0.30
Maximum reed stop opening 0.19-0.20 4.8-5.2 0.19-0.20 4.8-5.2
Reed seat clearance 0.008 0.20 .008 0.20
A From piston skirt end NOTE: Except for Crankshaft runout, service limits for the DT4 and DT5Y are the same as those for the DT2.2
B From cylinder top surface Service limit for the piston ring end gap on the DT4 is 0.028 in. (O.?Omm).

POWER HEAD 7-51
Engine Rebuilding Specifications-DT6 and DTS

Cylinder head distention 0.0012 0.030
Cylinder distorition 0.0012 0.030
Piston to cylinder clearance 0·0020·0.0026 0.052-0.067
Cylinder measunng position @ 0.9 23
Piston pin diameter 0.4723·0.4724 11.996·12.000 0.4714 11.98
Piston pin hole diameter 0.4725-0.4728 12.002· 12.010 0.474 12.03
Piston ring end gap 0.006-0.0138 0.15·0.35 0.031 0.80
Maximum opening for reed being bowed 0.16·0.181 4.1-45
Reed·to·seat clearance 0.008 0.20
CD From piston skirt end
05007C04
Engine Rebuilding Specifications-DT9.9 and DT15


Piston to cylinder clearance 0.0020-0.0026 0.052·0.067
Cylinder measuring position@ 1.1 28
Piston pin diameter 0.5510·0.5512 13.995-14.000 0.5504 13.980
Piston pin hole diameter 0.5511·0.5514 13.998-14.006 0.5524 14.030
Maximum opening for reed being
DT9.9 0.15-0.17 3.8·4.2
DT15 0.217-0.232 5.5-5.9
Reed·to-seat clearance 0.008 0.20
05007C05

7-52 POWER HEAD
Engine Rebuilding Specifications-DT1 SC

Piston diameter 2.3207-2.3213 58.945-58.960
Cylinder bore 2.3228·2.3234 59.000·59.015
Piston to cylinder clearance 0.0017·0.0024 0.042·0.062 0.0056 0.142
Piston diameter measuring position CD 0.8 20
Piston pin diameter 0.5510-0.5512 13.995·14.000 0.5504 13.980
Piston pin hole diameter 0.5511·0.5513 13.998·14.004 0.5524 14.030
Piston ring end gap 0.004·0.010 0.10·0.25 0.031 0.8
Maximum reed stop opening 0.22·0.23 5.5·5.9
05007C06

Component Standard (in.) Metric (mm) Standard (in.) Metric(mm)

Piston to cylinder clearance 0.0024·0.0035 0.060·0.090
Piston pin diameter 0.6297-0.6299 15.995·16.000 0.5504 13.980
Piston pin hole diameter 0.6298·0.6302 15.998-16.006

Piston ring end gap 0.0059·0.0138 0.15-0.35 0.028 0.7
Maximum reed stop opening 0.433 11.0

05007C07

POWER HEAD 7-53
Engine Rebuilding Specifications-DT25C and DT30C

Piston diameter 2.4378·2.4384 61.920·61.935
Cylinder bore 2.4409·2.4415 62.000·62.015
Piston to cylinder 0.0028·0.0034 0.072·0.087 0.0066 0.167
Piston diameter measuring position <D 0.9 23
Cylinder measuring position 0 1.1 28
Piston pin hole diameter 0.6300·0.6303 16.002·16.010 0·6311 16.030
05007C08
Engine Rebuilding Specifications-DT35 and DT40

Crankshaft deflection
Upper/Lower 0.002 0.05
Middle 0.003 0.07
Piston diameter 3.1060·3.1066 78.893-78.908
Cylinder bore 3.11027-3.1108 79.000-79.015
Piston to cylinder clearance 0.0039-0.0045 0.099·0.114 0.0079 0.194
Piston diameter measuring position <D 1.1 28.0
Cylinder measuring position 0 1.38 35.0
Piston pin hole diameter 0. 7873-0. 7876 19. 998·20. 006 0.7887 20.032
Maximum reed stop opening 0.35-0.36 8.9·9.3
05007C09

7-54 POWERHEAD

Conrod deflection 0.2
Piston diameter 2.8698·2.8704 72.893·72.908
Cylinder bore 2.8740·2.8746 73.000·73.015
Piston to cylinder 0 0039-0.0045 0.099-0.114 0.0076 0.194
Cylinder measuring position@ 1.38 35.0
Piston pin diameter 0. 7872-0. 7874 19.995·20.000 0.7795 19.98
Piston ring end gap 0.008-0.016 0.20-0.40 0.031 0.8
05007C10


Piston to cylinder clearance 0.0053-0.0065 0.135-0.165
Cylinder measuring position @ 1.77 45.0
Piston pin diameter 0. 7872·0. 7874 19.995-20.000 0.7866 19.98
Piston pin hole diameter 0. 7873·0. 7876 19.998·20.006 0.7892 20.046
Maximum opening for reed being bowed 0.30·0.31 7.6·7.9
Reed-to-seat clearance 0.008 0.20
05007C11

POWER HEAD 7-55
Crankshaft runout 0.002 0.05

Conrod def I ection 0.2 5.0
Pislon diameter 3.3018-3.3024 83.865-83.880
Cylinder bore 3.3071-3.3077 84.000-84.015
Piston lo cylinder clearance 0-0051-0.0055 0.13·014 0.0087 0.22
05007C12

Component Standard (in.) Metric (mm) Standard (in.) Metric (mm)
Crankshaft runout 0.000-0.002 0.00·0.05 0.0039 0.10

Cylinder head distortion
1988-95 0.0012 0.030
1996-99 0.0039 0.10
Piston diameter 3.3024·3.3030 83.880-83.895
Cylinder bore 3.3071·3.3130 84.000-84.015
Piston to cylinder clearance 0.0045-0.0049 0.115-0.125 0.0081 0.205
Piston diameter measuring position <D 1.0 25
Piston pin diameter 0.8659-0.8661 21.995-22.000 0.8653 21. 980
Piston pin hole diameter 0.8662-0.8665 22.002·22.010 0.8673 22.030
Maximum reed stop opening 0.31-0.33 7.9·8.3
05007C13

7-56 POWER HEAD
Engine Rebuilding Specifications-DT150, DT175 and DT200

Piston diameter 3.3018-3.3024 83.865-83.880
Cylinder bore 3.3071-3.3077 84.000-84.015
Piston to cylinder clearance 0.0051-0.0055 0.130-0.140 0.0087 0.220
Maximum reed stop opening
DT150 0.24 6.0
DT175-DT200 0.29 7.4
G) From piston skirt end

05007C14


C~inderdistortion 0.0012 0.030
Piston diameter 3.3035-3.3041 83.910-83.925
Cylinder bare 3.3071-3.3080 84.000-84.023
Piston to cylinder clearance 0.0030-0.0045 0.075-0.113
Piston diameter measuring position CD 1.3 32.0
05007C15

LOWER UNIT 8·2 DT115 AND DT140 8-44
GENERAL INFORMATION 8-2 DISASSEMBLY 8-44
SHIFTING PRINCIPLES 8-2 CLEANING & INSPECTION 8-44
STANDARD ROTATING UNIT 8-2 ASSEMBLY 8-45
COUNTERROTATING UNIT 8-2 SHIMMING PROCEDURE 8-45
TROUBLESHOOTING THE LOWER UNIT 8-2 V4 AND V6 8-46
PROPELLER 8-2 DISASSEMBLY 8-46
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 8-2 CLEANING AND INSPECTING 8-47
LOWER UNIT - NO REVERSE GEAR 8-3 ASSEMBLY 8-47
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 8-3 SHIMMING PROCEDURE 8-50
LOWER UNIT - WITH REVERSE GEAR 8-3 JET DRIVE 8-51
LOWER UNIT OVERHAUL 8·6 MODEL IDENTIFICATION AND SERIAL
DT2 (FORWARD ONLY) 8-6 NUMBERS 8-51
DISASSEMBLY 8-6 JET DRIVE ASSEMBLY 8-51
CLEANING AND INSPECTION 8-7 REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 8-51
ASSEMBLY 8-8 ADJUSTMENT 8-54
SHIMMING PROCEDURE 8-9 DISASSEMBLY 8-56
DT4 AND DT5Y 8-9 CLEANING AND INSPECTING 8-56
DISASSEMBLY 8-9 ASSEMBLING 8-57
CLEANING AND INSPECTION 8-9
ASSEMBLY 8-10
SHIMMING PROCEDURE 8-11
DT6 AND DT8 8-11
DISASSEMBLY 8-11
INSPECTION AND CLEANING 8-13
ASSEMBLY 8-14
DT9.9AND DT15 8-14
DISSASSEMBLY 8-14
ASSEMBLY 8-16
DT20, DT25AND DT30 8-19
DISASSEMBLY 8-19
ASSEMBLY 8-20
DT35AND DT40 8-24
DISASSEMBLY 8-24
ASSEMBLY 8-24
DT55 AND DT65 8-28
DISASSEMBLY 8-28
ASSEMBLY 8-31
DT75 AND DT85 8-35
DISASSEMBLY 8-35
ASSEMBLY 8-38

8-2 LOWER UNIT
LOWER UNIT
The main physical differences lie in the shifting mechanism (mirror image)
General Information and the propeller shalt. The counterrotating unit has a shoulder machined
into it for the forward bevel gear tapered roller bearing. Another difference
The lower unit consists of the driveshaft, water pump, pinion gear, regards nomenclature: what would be the forward gear on a standard unit
bearings, forward and reverse gears, propeller shaft. The shifting mechanism becomes the reverse gear on a counterrotating unit and what would normally
and the lower unit housing. The housing is bolted to the exhaust housing, be the reverse gear on a standard unit, becomes the forward gear on a
which places the driveshaft and water tube(s) through the center of the counterrotating unit. The pinion gear remains the same and driveshaft
exhaust housing. The water tube carries water from the water pump to the rotation remains the same as on a standard lower unit.
powerhead. Mirror image shifting mechanisms produce counter rotation of the
The driveshaft splines insert into the crankshaft which then transmits propeller shalt. This type lower unit consists of the same major identical
power from the powerhead to the gearcase. A pinion gear on the driveshaft compcnents as the standard unit.
takes the power from the driveshaft and transfers the power to the propeller On a standard lower unit, the cam on the shift shaft is located on the
shaft. The powerhead driveshaft rotates in a clockwise direction continuously starboard side of the shifter. Therefore, when the rod is rotated
while the engine is running, propeller shaft direction is controlled by the counterclockwise, the clutch shifter is pulled forward and the forward gear is
gearcase shifting assembly. engaged.
The lower unit can be removed from the engine without removing the On a counterrotating lower unit, the cam on the shift rod is located on the
engine from it's mounting on the boat. The lower units in this chapter differ port side of the shifter. Therefore, when the rod is rotated counterclockwise,
somewhat in their design and construction and require different servicing the clutch shifter is pushed back and the gear in the aft end of the housing
procedures. (which normally is the reverse gear) is engaged. In this manner, the rotation
The lower unit is normally trouble free until water enters the gearcase, the of the propeller shalt is reversed. The same logic applies to the selection of
operator shifts incorrectly, or the oil is not changed regularly and corrosion reverse gear.
enters the unit. Constant maintenance is required to prevent these problems. • Counter-rotational shifting is accomplished without modification to
Because the unit is normally underwater, extra care must be taken to prevent the shift cable at the shift box. The normal setup is essential for correct
problems. shifting. The only special equipment the counterrotating unit requires
Shifting the unit in and out of gear needs to be quick and positive to is the installation of a left-hand propeller.
prevent rounding over the shift clutch dogs. Slow engagement will damage
the parts. This problem is evident when the unit jumps out of gear. Troubleshooting the Lower Unit
Following the recommended oil change schedule allows the oil to be
drained and checked for contamination, especially water intrusion. A milky Once a season the lower unit needs to be dropped and lubrication on the
looking oil is a sign of water has entered the gearcase and it must then be driveshaft splines renewed. An extreme pressure moly lube is applied directly
pressure tested to check the seals and the leaks repaired to prevent damage to the splines. Seals or an 0-ring are used around the driveshaft to retain the
to the bearings and gears. lubrication and keep the water and exhaust from the splined joint area. This
is a mandatory service to keep the splines from rusting together. Exhaust
Shifting Principles pressure and water are both present at the joint seal. If a seal failure occurs,
water washes the lubricant from the splines and rusting will occur. The rust
can be so severe that the two shafts will be rusted together. This will first be
STANDARD ROTATING UNIT known there is an attempt to drop the lower unit. it will not separate from the
powerhead.
Non-Reverse Type II rust has seized the joint, the drive shaft will have to be cut with a saw or
cutting torch. Some driveshalts use stainless steel and others a good grade
Some of the smaller engines equipped with a neutml, but no reverse-gear, of steel. The best preventive service is not to let it happen. Service the spline
utilize a spring-loaded clutch to shalt between neutral and forward gear. joint each season along with a water pump impeller replacement. When
water has been found in the lower unit oil, the unit should be pressure tested
Reverse Type with air to 16-18 psi and the submerged under water or sprayed with a
mixture of soapy water. Bubbles will come out of the areas that are leaking.
On Suzuki outboard engines equipped with a reverse gear, a sliding-type Also, the unit should be subjected to 3-5 inches of vacuum. This will test the
clutch engages the chosen gear in the gearcase housing. This clutch when seals in the other direction. The pressure vacuum should hold for a few
engaged, creates a direct connection that then moves the power flow from minutes.
the pinion to the propeller shaft. After the shafts and housings are cleaned and inspected, special attention
Power flow in the lower unit goes through the driveshaft into the pinion should be paid to the area's that are leaking. It is common for grit in the
gear, which constantly turns the forward and reverse gears in opposite water to wear thew shafts at the seal contact points or for corrosion to eat
directions. The clutch dog is part of the shaft mechanism and is splined to away at the housing.
the propeller shaft. The clutch dog is held in the central position (neutral) II the gearshift jumps out of gear, check the detent balls, spring, clutch
between the forward and reverse gears. When the shift shalt (rod) is moved, dog, gears and shifter.
the shift cam (shifter) moves the follower (shifter shaft), which in turn, moves II the gearshift won't shift, check the pivot pin, lever or cable adjustment,
the clutch dog into mesh with the selected gear. Power is then transmitted shift rod connection, gearcase components and driveshalt. Replace any
from the gear through the clutch dog into the propeller shaft, and finally to damaged or worn parts.
the propeller. II the gearcase is seized, check the gearcase for lubricant. If lubricant is
present, drain and disassemble the gearcase. Inspect all components for
V4 and V6 Smooth-Shift damage or corrosion. Replace oroken or corroded components. Check for a
distorted gearcase housing.
1. This design provides easy shifting, positive engagement and
extended durability of the gears and shifting mechanism. Its compact design
is also partly responsible for the slim design of the lower unit housing with its Propeller
smooth water flow and low forward water intake.
COUNTERROTATING UNIT
DT2, DT2.2, DT4, DTSY, DT6 and DT8
As mentioned earlier in this section a single design shifting mechanism is
employed on both the standard and counter-rotating units, with the counter- • See accompanying illustrations
rotating shift mechanism having the shift rod being turned 180°from the 1. Disconnect the spark plug lead(s) to prevent accidental starting of the
standard shift mechanism. engine.

LOWER UNIT 8-3
2. On DT2 models, remove and discard the cotter pin. Remove the • If the lubricant is creamy in color or metallic particles are found, the
propeller from the shaft. gearcase must be completely disassembled to determine and correct
3. On DT4, DT5Y and DT6 models, perform the following: the cause of the problem.
4. Remove and discard the cotter pin.
5. Unscrew the propeller nut and remove the propeller from the shaft. 5. Wipe a small amount of lubricant on a finger and rub the finger and
6. Remove drive pin from propeller with an appropriate punch . thumb together. Check for the presence of metallic particles in the lubricant.
7. Clean propeller shaft thoroughly. Note the color of the lubricant. A white or creamy color indicates water in the
8. Inspect the pin engagement slot in the propeller hub and shaft for lubricant. Check the drain container for signs of water separation from the
wear or damage. Replace as necessary. lubricant.
To install: 6. Remove the bolt cover .
9. Clean propeller shaft thoroughly. 7. Remove the 2 nuts holding the gearcase to the driveshaft housing
10. Lubricate the propeller shaft with waterproof marine grease. 8. Carefully separate then remove the gearcase from the driveshaft
11. Inspect the pin engagement slot in the propeller hub and shaft for housing.
wear or damage. 9. Install the gearcase in an appropriate holding fixture.
12. Install the propeller on the shaft
13. Install new drive and cotter pins. Bend the ends of the cotter pin over **CAUTION
completely.
14. Install the propeller nut. Do not grease the top of the driveshaft. This may excessively preload
15. Connect the spark plug lead(s). the driveshaft and crankshaft when the mounting fasteners are
tightened and cause a premature failure of the power head or gearcase.
Except DT2, DT2.2, DT4, DTSY, DT6 and DT8
1. Disconnect the spark plug leads to prevent accidental starting of the 10. Lightly lubricate the driveshaft splines with waterproof marine grease.
engine. 11. Apply a thin but uniform coat of a silicone sealer to the gearcase and
2. On models equipped with a cotter pin, remove it. Discard the cotter driveshaft housing mating surfaces.
pin as it must not be reused. 12. Wipe the driveshaft housing bolt threads with thread locking
3. On models equipped with a lockwasher, straighten the tab compound or equivalent.
lockwasher. To install:
4. Remove the propeller nut from the shaft . 13. Position the gearcase under the driveshaft housing. Align the
5. Remove the tab lockwasher (if used) and propeller nut spacer from
the shaft. driveshaft splines with the crankshaft.
6. Remove the propeller and bushing stopper from the shaft.
To install:
**CAUTION
7. Throughly clean and inspect the propeller shaft for damage. Do not rotate the flywheel counterclockwise. This can damage the
8. Lubricate propeller shaft with waterproof marine grease. water pump impeller and cause the engine to overheat.
9. Install the propeller on the shaft.
10. If a tab lockwasher is used, check washer tab condition and replace 14. Seat the gearcase against the driveshaft housing, rotating the
as required. flywheel clockwise as required until the driveshaft and crankshaft engage.
11. If a cotter pin is used, install a new one and bend the ends over 15. Install the gearcase nuts and lockwashers and tighten securely.
completely. 16. Install the mounting nut cover.
12. Tighten the propeller nut to the correct torque: 17. Install the propeller.
• DT9.9-DT200: 36-43.5 ft. lbs. (50-60 Nm) 18. Reconnect the spark plug lead and refill the gearcase with the proper
• DT15C:12.5-14.5 ft. lbs. (17-20 Nm) type and quantity of lubricant.
• DT25C, DT30C: 21-22.5 ft. lbs. (29-31 Nm)
Lower Unit - No Reverse Gear Lower Unit - With Reverse Gear

DT2
DT4, DTSY, DT6 and DT8
1. Remove the engine cover and disconnect the spark plug lead to
prevent any accidental engine starting during the lower unit removal. 1. Remove the engine cover and disconnect the spark plug lead(s) as a
2. Place the shift lever in FORWARD. safety precaution to prevent any accidental starting of the engine during
3. Remove the propeller. lower unit removal.
4. Place a suitable container under the gearcase. Remove the drain 2. Place the shift lever in FORWARD.
screw and drain the lubricant from the unit. 3. Remove the propeller.

8-4 LOWER UNIT
05008G27
05008G26 05008P92
4. On DT6, DT8 models, perform the following, remove the bolts holding 12. Wipe a small amount of lubricant on a finger and rub the finger and
the shift rod adjusting cover and remove the cover thumb together. Check for the presence of metallic particles in the lubricant.
5. If it is equipped with a rubber cover, remove that to access the shift rod Note the color of the lubricant. A white or creamy color indicates water in the
6. Loosen the shift rod connector bolt lubricant. Check the drain container for signs of water separation from the lubri-
7. Remove the bolts holding the gearcase to the driveshaft housing. cant.
**CAUTION
Do not grease the top of the driveshaft. This may excessively pre-
load the driveshaft and crankshaft when the mounting fasteners are
tightened and cause a premature failure of the power head or
gearcase.
To install:
13. Make sure the shift rod is in the NEUTRAL position and lightly lubri-
cate the driveshaft splines with waterproof marine grease.
14. Apply a thin but uniform coat of a silicone sealer to the gearcase and
driveshaft housing mating surfaces.
15. Apply a small amount of thread locking compound to the driveshaft
housing bolts.
16. Position the gearcase under the driveshaft housing. Align the driveshaft
splines with the crankshaft, insert the water tube into the water pump case and
Step 7 fit the upper shift rod into the shift rod connector.
**CAUTION
8. Tilt the driveshaft housing up and carefully separate it from the Do not rotate the flywheel counterclockwise. This can damage the
gearcase. water pump impeller and cause the engine to overheat.
9. Remove the gearcase from the driveshaft housing.
10. Install the gearcase in an appropriate holding fixture. 17. Seat the gearcase against the driveshaft housing, rotating the flywheel
11. Place a suitable container under the gearcase. Remove the drain screw clockwise as required until the driveshaft and crankshaft engage.
and drain the lubricant from the unit. 18. Install the gearcase fasteners and tighten to specifications.
~If the lubricant is creamy in color or metallic particles are found, the 19. On DT6 and DT8 models, perform the following:
gearcase must be completely disassembled to determine and correct • Make sure the engine shift lever is in FORWARD and install the shift
the cause of the problem. rod connector bolt.
• Place the shift lever in NEUTRAL and make sure the propeller rotates
freely, then shift back into FORWARD and make sure the propeller will only
rotate clockwise. If the propeller does not rotate as indicated, loosen the shift
rod connector bolt and readjust the position of the connector or rods as
required.
20. When connecting the clutch rod, equalize the distance of forward and
reverse shifts by means of the clutch rod connector.
21. After adjusting the clutch rod, replace the clutch adjusting hole cover
gasket (if equipped) or install the rubber cover.
22. Apply silicone sealant to the mating surfaces of the driveshaft housing
and the gearcase and secure the housing to the gearcase. A thin uniform coat of
silicone is all that is need for sealing these surfaces.
23. Apply a coat of waterproof marine grease to the splines of the driveshaft.
24. Apply a thread locking compound to the gearcase bolts and tighten to
11-14.5 ft. lbs. (15-20 Nm).
25. Install the propeller.
05008G29
26. Refill the gearcase with proper type and quantity of lubricant.
27. Reconnect the spark plug lead(s).
Step 11

LOWER UNIT 8-5
(,----
,'./\I-
'~\)~
v~/6 A
05008G47 05008G45
05008G46
DT9.9 to DT35 and DT40 17. Seat the gearcase in place, rotating the flywheel clockwise as required
until the driveshaft and crankshaft engage.
The gearcase used on these models varies primarily in shape, size and com- 18. Install the gearcase bolts and lockwashers and tighten to specification.
ponent location. This is a basic procedure that covers all models listed. Your 19. Make sure the engine shift lever is in FORWARD and tighten the shift
model may vary slightly from the one shown, but has the same basic compo- rod connector or upper shift rod turnbuckle. Place the shift lever in NEUTRAL
nents and all models listed are serviced in essentially the same way. and make sure the propeller rotates freely, then shift back into FORWARD and
1. Remove the engine cover and disconnect the spark plug leads to prevent make sure the propeller will only rotate clockwise. If the propeller does not
accidental starting of the engine during lower unit removal. rotate as indicated, loosen the shift rod connector or upper shift rod turnbuckle
2. Shift the outboard into FORWARD. and readjust the position of the connector/turnbuckle or rods as required. When
3. Remove the propeller. shift pattern is correct, tighten the shift rod connector locknut securely.
4. Loosen the clutch rod locknut . 20. Install the propeller.
5. Loosen the clutch rod turnbuckle and separate the clutch rod from the 21. Reconnect the spark plug leads and refill the gearcase with proper type
shift rod. and quantity of lubricant.
6. Remove the bolts and lockwashers securing the gearcase to the drive- 22. Install the engine cover.
shaft housing.
7. Carefully separate the gearcase from the driveshaft housing. DT55 and DT65
8. Install the gearcase in an appropriate holding fixture.
9. Place a suitable container under the gearcase. Remove the vent and 1. Remove the engine cover and disconnect the spark plug leads to prevent
drain the lubricant from the unit. accidental starting of the engine during lower unit removal.
2. Place a container under the gearcase. Remove the vent and drain plugs .
•If the lubricant is creamy in color or metallic particles are found, the
Drain the lubricant from the unit.
gearcase must be completely disassembled to determine and correct
the cause of the problem. •If the lubricant is creamy in color or metallic particles are found, the
gearcase must be completely disassembled to determine and correct
10. Wipe a small amount of the drained lubricant on a finger and rub the the cause of the problem.
finger and thumb together. Check for the presence of metallic particles in the
lubricant Note the color of the lubricant. A white or creamy color indicates 3. Wipe a small amount of lubricant on a finger and rub the finger and
water in the lubricant. Check the drain container for signs of water separation thumb together. Check for the presence of metallic particles in the lubricant. Note
from the lubricant the color of the lubricant. A white or creamy color indicates water in the lubricant.
Check the drain container for signs of water separation from the lubricant.
**CAUTION 4. Remove the propeller as described in this chapter.
5. Place the outboard in NEUTRAL.
Do not grease the top of the driveshaft. This may excessively preload 6. Remove the nut from the clutch shaft.
the driveshaft and crankshaft when the mounting fasteners are tight- 7. Disconnect the clutch shaft from the clutch rod.
ened and cause a premature failure of the power head or gearcase. 8. Remove the bolts and lockwashers securing the gearcase to the drive-
shaft housing.
To install: 9. Remove the gearcase from the driveshaft housing and mount it in a suit-
11. Pull the lower shift rod upward as far as possible to make sure it is in able holding fixture.
the FORWARD position and lightly lubricate the driveshaft splines with water-
proof marine grease. **CAUTION
driveshaft housing mating surfaces. Do not grease the top of the driveshaft. This may excessively pre-
13. Make sure the locating dowels are in place. load the driveshaft and crankshaft when the mounting bolts are tight-
14. Position the gearcase under the driveshaft housing. ened and cause a premature failure of the power head or gearcase.
15. Align the driveshaft splines with the crankshaft, insert the water tube into
the water pump case and the water pump seal tube. To install:
10. Lightly lubricate the driveshaft splines and the 0-ring seal around the
•On 1989-on models, make sure to connect the clutch rod to the shill
driveshaft bearing with waterproof marine grease.
shall with chamfered side of the lower nut facing upward
16. Attach the shift rod into the clutch rod. driveshaft housing mating surfaces.
12. Make sure the locating dowels are in place.
**CAUTION 13. Position the gearcase under the driveshaft housing.
14. Align the driveshaft splines with the crankshaft, insert the water tube into
Do not rotate the flywheel counterclockwise. This can damage the the water pump case and the water pump seal tube.
water pump impeller. 15. Guide the clutch rod into the clutch shaft.

8-6 LOWER UNIT
13. Remove the gearcase from the driveshaft housing and mount it in a suit-
**CAUTION able holding fixture.
Do not rotate the flywheel counterclockwise. This can damage the
water pump impeller and cause the engine to overheat. **CAUTION
Do not grease the top of the driveshaft. This may excessively pre-
16. Seat the gearcase in place, rotating the flywheel clockwise as required load the driveshaft and crankshaft when the mounting bolts are
until the driveshaft and crankshaft engage. tightened and cause a premature failure of the power head or
17. Apply a silicone sealer to the mounting bolt threads and tighten to spec- gearcase.
ifications.
18. Connect the clutch shaft onto the clutch rod and install the nut. Tighten To install:
the nut securely. 14. Lightly lubricate the driveshaft splines with waterproof marine grease or
19. Install the propeller. equivalent.
20. Reconnect the spark plug leads and refill the gearcase with proper type 15. Apply a thin but uniform coat of a silicone sealer to the gearcase and
and quantity of lubricant. Install the engine cover. driveshaft housing mating surfaces.
16. Make sure the locating dowels are in place.
DT75, DT85, DT115, DT140, V4 and V6 models 17. Position the gearcase under the driveshaft housing.
1. Remove the engine cover. 18. Align the driveshaft splines with the crankshaft, insert the water tube into
2. Disconnect the spark plug leads to prevent accidental starting of the the water pump case and the water pump seal tube.
engine during lower unit removal. 19. Guide the clutch rod into the clutch rod connector.
3. Place a container under the gearcase. Remove the vent and drain plugs.
4. Drain the lubricant from the unit. **CAUTION
_.If the lubricant is creamy in color or metallic particles are found, the Do not rotate the flywheel counterclockwise. This can damage the
gearcase must be completely disassembled to determine and correct water pump impeller.
the cause of the problem.
20. Seat the gearcase in place, rotating the flywheel clockwise as required
5. Wipe a small amount of lubricant on afinger and rub the finger and until the driveshaft and crankshaft engage.
thumb together. Check for the presence of metallic particles in the lubricant. Note 21. On DT115 and DT140 models, apply thread locking compound to the
the color of the lubricant. A white or creamy color indicates water in the lubricant. mounting bolt threads and tighten securely.
Check the drain container for signs of water separation from the lubricant. 22. On all other models, apply a silicone sealer to the mounting bolt threads
6. Remove the propeller. and tighten to specifications.
7. Place the outboard in NEUTRAL and remove the cover at the front of 23. Install the trim tab and the bolt and lockwasher. Tighten the bolt
the clutch rod. securely. On V6 models, install the trim cap over the bolt hole in the driveshaft
8. Use needlenose pliers and remove the clutch rod connector cotter pin . housing.
Discard the cotter pin. 24. Connect the clutch rod into the clutch rod connector and insert the con-
9. Remove the connector pin . nector pin through both parts.
10. On V6 models, remove the trim tab bolt access cap on the top surface of 25. Install a new cotter pin. Bend the ends over completely.
the driveshaft housing. Remove the bolt and lockwasher securing the trim tab 26. Install the clutch rod cover.
and remove the trim tab. 27. Install the propeller.
11. On all other models, remove the bolt and lockwasher securing the trim 28. Reconnect the spark plug leads and refill the gearcase case with proper
tab and remove the trim tab. type and quantity of lubricant.
12. Remove the bolts and lockwashers securing the gearcase to the drive- 29. Install the engine cover.
shaft housing.
LOWER UNIT OVERHAUL

2. Secure the gearcase in a suitable holding fixture or a vise with protec-
DT2 and DT2.2 (Forward Only) tive jaws. If protective jaws are not available, position the gearcase upright with
the skeg between wooden blocks in the vise.
DISASSEMBLY 3. Remove the water pump case cover.
4. Remove the water pump impeller.
•See accompanying illustrations 5. Remove the pin.
6. Carefully pry the water pump case free from the gearcase housing.
1. Remove the gearcase.
05008G04 05008G05
05008G06

LOWER UNIT 8-7
05008G08
05008G09
05008G07
05008G10 05008G12
05008G11
7. Draw out the water tube and driveshaft seal pipe.

8. Use a pair of screwdrivers to pry the E-clip from the pinion gear. 1. Drive shaft seal pipe
9. Take out the driveshaft. 2. Seal pipe bushing
10. Remove the pinion gear and shim(s) from the gearcase housing. 3. Oil seal
11. Pull out the propeller shaft and gear assembly. 4. Circlip
12. Remove the shim(s) from the gearcase housing. 5. Shim
13. Remove the driveshaft seal pipe bushing and oil seal. 6. Bearing
CLEANING & INSPECTION 7. Spacer
8. Bearing
t See Figures 1 and 2 9. Gear case
10. Bearing
1. Clean and inspect all parts: 11. Bolt cover
2. Inspect the driveshaft pinion and propeller shaft gear for broken teeth and
wear. 12. Gasket
3. Inspect the water pump impeller for wear and damage. 13. Drain plug
4. Inspect the driveshaft housing oil seal and water pump case oil seal lips 14. Zinc 0
for tears, nicks or other damage and wear.
e
5. Inspect the propeller for damage or distortion.
6. Check the driveshaft and propeller shaft bearings for wear and damage.
Make sure there is no damage to these bearings and that they spin smoothly
with no rattles or noise.
7. Inspect the cooling water passage to make sure it is clear of debris.
8. If inspection of the driveshaft bearings indicates replacement is required,
proceed as follows:
• Remove the driveshaft snap ring with snap-ring pliers .
• Remove the shim(s) from the top driveshaft bearing.
• Insert a bearing remover handle into the seal pipe bore.
• Insert the bearing remover into the gearcase bore and attach to the
05008G20
remover
• Pull the 2 driveshaft bearings and spacer from the gearcase. Fig. 1 DT2 and DT2.2 gearcase assembly

8-8 LOWER UNIT
3. Install the propeller shaft shims and propeller shaft in the gearcase
1. Drive shaft housing.
4. Position the pinion gear and shim(s) in the housing under the driveshaft
2. Shim bore, insert the driveshaft and engage the pinion gear. Install the E-clip on the
3. Pinion shim end of the driveshaft to retain the pinion gear.
4. Pinion 5. Install the driveshaft seal pipe and water tube.
5. "E" ring 6. Remove the water pump case bearing and oil seal.
7. Install a new bearing with an installer (09914-79510).
6. Cotter pin 8. Install a new oil seal and coat its lips with waterproof marine grease.
7. Propeller 9. Before installing the water pump case to the gearcase, apply waterproof
8. Spacer marine grease to the oil seal.
9. Shear pin 10. Also apply waterproof marine grease to the 0-ring.
10. Propeller shaft 11. Install the water pump. Be sure to position the water pump impeller
in the direction shown in the illustration. Note that the impeller vanes curve
11. Gear shims back relative to the direction of rotation. Don't forget to install the impeller
pin.
05008G15
05008G21
Step 9
Fig. 2 DT2 and DT2.2 transmission assembly
ASSEMBLY

1. If the driveshaft bearings are replaced:
• Install new bearings with the spacer between them using an appropri-
ate bearing installer.
• Install the shim(s) on the top driveshaft bearing.
• Install the driveshaft snap ring with pliers.
2. When installing new oil seals, make sure each seal is in its specific
location.
05008G16
Step 10
05008G14
05008G17
Step 2 Step 11

LOWER UNIT 8-9
12. Apply waterproof marine grease to the propeller shaft and then fit the movement exceeds this specification, remove the snap ring and exchange
propeller onto the greased shaft. the shim(s) as required to bring the clearance within specifications. Shim
13. After installing the gearcase, fill with the correct amount of SAE 90 stock is available in three sizes: 0.004 in. (0.1mm); 0.008 in. (0.2mm); 0.020
hypoid gear oil: 1.35 oz. (40cc). in. (0.5mm).
14. Check gearcase lubricant level after engine has been run. Change 2. Once the driveshaft bearing shimming is correct, install a new oil seal
the lubricant after 10 hours of operation (break-in period). and driveshaft bushing. Coat the seal lips with waterproof marine grease.
3. Install the propeller shaft shims and propeller shaft back into the
gearcase.
DT4 and DT5Y

DISASSEMBLY
1. Secure the gearcase in a holding fixture or a vise with protective
jaws. If protective jaws are not available, Place the skeg between two
wooden blocks in a vise.
2. Remove the 2 bearing housing bolts. Remove the bearing housing
and propeller shaft assembly.
• Insert a screwdriver into the propeller shaft bearing housing at the
section marked with an "0". Gently pry with the screwdriver to
separate the housing section.
Step 12 3. Remove the propeller shaft from the bearing housing.
4. Remove the water pump.
5. After removing the bolt, detach the shift rod guide stopper.
6. Pull out the shift rod assembly from the gearcase.
7. Use a screwdriver to carefully pry loose the driveshaft bearing
housing along with the driveshaft.
8. Reach into the propeller shaft bore and remove the pinion gear and
the pinion thrust washers .
9. Remove the forward gear and its shims and thrust washer .
10. Remove the bolt on the side of the gearcase, then remove the water
filter.
11. Remove the reverse gear and bearing housing from the propeller
shaft assembly.
12. Use a screwdriver to remove the clutch dog spring from around the
clutch dog shifter.
13. Using a small drift, drive the pin out of the clutch dog shifter.
14. Slide the clutch dog off the propeller shaft.
15. Remove the push pin and return spring from the end of the propeller
shaft
Step 13
CLEANING AND INSPECTION
SHIMMING PROCEDURE
• See Figure 3
1. Clean and inspect all parts.
1. Temporarily install the driveshaft with the pinion gear and shims. Pull 2. Inspect for abnormal or excessive wear on the following parts:
upward on driveshaft. It should not move more than 0.004in. (0.1mm). If • Forward gear bearings
• Pinion gear
• Reverse gear
• Driveshaft
• Propeller shaft
• Make sure to closely check all the engagement dogs on the gears
and clutch dog shifter.
• Inspect the clutch push rod and clutch cam for excessive wear and
damage.
l Oil seal • Check the water pump impeller for wear and damage.
2. Circlip Perform a gearcase pressure check.
3. Shim • While rotating the driveshaft and propeller shaft, apply the pressure
(14.2 psi) through the oil drain plug .using the oil leakage tester (09950-
4. Drive shaft bearing 69511) and air pump assembly (09821-00004). Once the correct pressure
5. Shims has been reached, watch the pressure, if it falls, then there is a sealing
problem and you will need to find out which seal is leaking. Use a mixture of
6. Drive shaft soapy water and spray the area around each seal to check for air bubbles
7. Drive pinion escaping. This will indicate which seal is leaking and needs to be replaced.
• First apply a low pressure of 2.8-5.7 psi to set the sealing lip of the
seals. Then apply the full pressure to the seals. This check should be
done after reassembly.
Fig. 3 Temporarily install the driveshaft with the pinion gear and Be sure that the coolant passages are clean and free of signs of
shims. Pull upward on driveshaft. It should not move more than corrosion. Also make sure that the water tube is clear.
0.004in. (0.1mm) Inspect the splines of the driveshaft for signs of wear and damage.

8-10 LOWER UNIT
1. Case set, gear 11. Housing, prop shaft
2. Bush bearing
3. Pin 12. Washer, oil seal stopper
4. Plug, drain 13. Oil seal
5. Gasket, drain plug 14. Protector, oil seal
6. Filter, water 15. Shear pin
7. Bearing, gear 16. Washer
8. 0 ring, bearing housing 17. Bush, propeller
9. Bearing, reverse gear 18. Propeller
10. Bearing, propeller 19. Cotter pin
shaft 20. Nut
Fig. 4 DT4 and DTSY gearcase assembly
2~
4--=
~
1. Shaft, drive 12. Thrust washer FWD
2. Bush, drive shaft upper 13. Shim, FWD
3. Ring, drive shaft snap 14. Shim, REV
4. Thrust washer 15. Shaft, propeller
'i=: 'l~~
5. Circlip 16. Shifter, clutch dog
6. Pinion 17. Pin, clutch dog
7. Gear, forward 18. Spring
8. Gear, reverse 19. Spring, dog
9. Thrust washer 20. Rod, push
10. Washer 21. Pin, push
9~ 19 ~·T 11. Thrust washer REV
10--® t~L 8
6--® ~ 15
12 1"°.L r
~
13~
~1118
20
1617
21
7
Fig. 5 DT4 and DTSY transmission assembly
Check the clutch return spring for strength by measuring its free length. • Be sure that the forward and reverse gears are separated and
The spring may be re-used for assembly if the free length is within limits. installed correctly. Both gears look alike, but the forward gear has an
• Standard: 2.7 in. (69mm) oil pocket located in the area around the dogs.
• Service limit: 2.6 in. (67mm)
1. Install the water filter and bolt. Tighten the bolt securely.
ASSEMBLY 2. Fit the forward gear shims over the shaft at the rear of the gear and
install into the prop shaft bore.
Before reassembly, liberally coat the forward gear, driveshaft and 3. Insert the pinion gear with shims into the prop shaft bore. Fit the gear
propeller shaft with outboard motor gear oil.
into the driveshaft bore and mesh it with the forward gear.
• Make sure to note the direction of assembly on the clutch dog 4. Apply a silicone sealer to the mating surfaces of the driveshaft
shifter. The end with the "F" is meant to face the forward gear. Be sure bearing housing and gearcase housing mating surfaces.
to mount the shifter correctly on the propeller shaft. 5. Insert the driveshaft into the gearcase housing with a rotating motion
and engage the pinion gear. Install the pinion gear circlip onto the driveshaft.
Care must be used when installing the clutch dog shifter on the propeller 6. Lubricate the driveshaft bearing housing oil seal lip with waterproof
shaft. marine grease. Install the housing on the driveshaft and seat into the
• First, insert the return spring into the propeller shaft and slide the clutch gearcase housing.
dog shifter onto the propeller shaft 7. Install the shift rod assembly.
• Then install the spring pin into the slots provided on both the propeller 8. Install the shift rod guide stopper and bolt. Tighten the bolt securely.
shaft and the clutch dog shifter and finally push the pin and push rod in the
9. Install the water pump.
propeller shaft
10. Check pinion gear depth and forward gear backlash.
• After connecting the dog shifter to the push pin, check to be sure 11. Insert propeller shaft into housing bore and engage the forward gear.
that the spring pin is all the way in, with its driven end flush with the 12. Coat the bearing housing outer edges (front and rear) with
surface of the dog shifter. Fit the spring snugly into the groove on the waterproof marine grease.
dog shifter so that the return spring does not come out. 13. Carefully install bearing housing on propeller shaft.

LOWER UNIT 8-11
14. Check propeller shaft thrust clearance. 3. This shows a top side toe contact. In this case, decrease the forward gear
15. When proper propeller shaft thrust clearance has been established, coat shim thickness and increase the pinion gear shim thickness.
the bearing housing bolt threads with silicone sealer. Install housing (use
,.. The top side toe contact will result in a chipped forward gear tooth or
installer 09914-79610) and tighten bolts to specifications.
damage to a tooth bottom of the pinion gear. Avoid this gear tooth bear-
16. Install the gearcase. Fill with recommended type and quantity of lubricant.
ing position.
17. Check gearcase lubricant level after engine has been run. Change the
lubricant after 10 hours of operation (break-in period).
Top side toe contact
SHIMMING PROCEDURE
Measurement Of Thrust Play

1. Using a dial indicator and stand, push the propeller shaft inward towards TOE
the gearcase. Keep the shaft in this position and set the dial indicator on the HEEL
shaft with the indicator rod depressed 0.78 in. (2 mm).
2. Keeping the shaft pushed in, zero the dial indicator gauge, then pull the 05008G50
propeller shaft outwards until the dial indicator reads its maximum: Step 3
0.0039-0.0079 in. (0.1-0.2 mm).
3. To measure the thrust play on the drive shaft, set up the dial indicator on the
drive shaft. Again, press in the shaft and zero the dial indicator and then pull out and 4. If the tooth contact pattern is as shown, the bottom side toe contact is
read the dial indicator for the maximum thrust play: 0.008-0 016 in. (0.2-0.4 mm). produced. In this case, increase the forward gear shim thickness and decrease
the pinion gear thickness and check the tooth contact pattern.
Pinon And Forward Gear Tooth Contact Pattern Adjustment ,-11 this gear tooth bearing position is not correct, the pinion gear tooth
t See accompanying illustrations may be chipped, this condition must be corrected.
Coat the entire surface of the forward gear lightly with Prussian Blue or
equivalent, and install the propeller shaft and all related parts into the gearcase
-fl--
It is unnecessary to install the propeller shaft housing.
While pushing the propeller shaft in, hold it firmly by hand so it does not turn.
Slowly rotate the drive shaft about 5 turns, and remove the forward gear from the TOE
gearcase. Check the Prussian Blue for proper the gear tooth contact pattern. HEEL
1. The forward gear runs with a localized tooth contact, and from this it can
be determined whether the tooth bearing position is correct or not. 05008G51
2. This is the correct gear tooth bearing position. It is advisable to obtain
Step 4
this tooth contact pattern by means of shim adjustments.
Concave side of tooth

DT6 and OTB
DISASSEMBLY

Heel /Tooth top
T oath contact
pattern 2. Secure the gearcase in a suitable holding fixture or a vise with protective
jaws. If protective
Convex side jaws are not available, position the gearcase upright with the skeg between
of tooth
wooden blocks in a vise.
3. Remove the water pump.
,.If bearing housing is corroded in prop shaft bore and cannot be
05008G48 removed easily by hand, tap side of housing cap with a rubber mallet to
Step 1 rotate cap ears, then pry bearing housing off.
4. Remove the 2 bearing housing bolts. Remove the bearing housing and
propeller shaft assembly .
Length of tooth contact
pattern= About 1/3
of tooth width
Concave side
of tooth (Reverse side)
HEEL TOE
Central toe
contact
Convex side of tooth( Forward side)

05008G49 05008G30
Step 2 Step 4

8-12 LOWER UNIT
\~
05008G31 05008G33
05008G34
05008G35 05008G36
05008G39
05008G37
05008G38
5. Unbolt the driveshaft bearing housing and remove the bearing housing, 13. Fit the forward gear shim(s) over the shaft at the rear of the gear and
the driveshaft and the shift rod assembly. install the gear into the gearcase.
6. Remove the snap-ring from the driveshaft bearing housing and pull the 14. Insert the pinion gear wi!fJ shim(s) into the prop shaft bore. Make sure
driveshaft out. that the pinion gear meshes with the forward gear.
7. Remove the pinion gear from the gearcase. 15. Lubricate the driveshaft bearing housing oil seal lip with waterproof
8. And then remove the forward gear and shim(s). marine grease. Install the housing on the driveshaft and seat into the gearcase
9. If necessary, obtain a bearing remover (09913-69911) and slide shaft housing. Install housing snap ring (if used) and make sure it fits properly into
(09930-30102) to remove the forward gear bearing. its groove.
10. Use the same remover/slide hammer combination to remove the 16. Insert the driveshaft into the gearcase housing with a rotating motion
gearcase driveshaft needle roller bearing. and engage the pinion gear.
11. Clean and inspect all parts. 17. Fit the adjusting shim (which was removed in disassembly) to the for-
To install: ward end of the driveshaft. Fit the bearing housing to the gearcase. Insert the
12. Install new forward gear and driveshaft bearings with installer serrated end of the driveshaft into the pinion gear.
(09914-79610) or equivalent. 18. Adjust the shifting cam and shifting rod to the specified length:

LOWER UNIT 8-13
05008G40 05008G41
05008G42
• Short shaft: 17.23 in. (438 mm)

• Long shaft: 22.24 in. (565 mm)
19. Insert the shifting rod into the gearcase and retain the rod with the shift-
ing cam stop screw. Check to be sure that the shifting rod is still capable of
smooth movement.
20. Install shift cam stop screw.
~The propeller shall must be out of the gearcase when installing or
removing the clutch rod.
21. Install the shifting rod guide in the sequence illustrated. Make sure to
apply waterproof marine grease to the 0-ring.
24. Remove and discard the bearing housing bearing and oil seal and
replace with a new seal.
25. Install a new housing bearing with installer (09914-79610) or equiva-
lent. Coat seal lips with waterproof marine grease.
26. Install a new bearing housing 0-ring. Lubricate housing 0-ring and end 05008G44
of propeller shaft pushrod with waterproof marine grease. Step 26
27. Insert propeller shaft into housing bore and engage the forward gear.
2.8- Coat bearing housing outer edges (front and rear) with waterproof
marine grease.
29. Carefully install bearing housing on propeller shaft. INSPECTION & CLEANING
30. Check propeller shaft thrust clearance as described in this chapter.
31. When proper propeller shaft thrust clearance has been established coat • See Figures 6 and 7
the bearing housing bolt threads with Silicone sealer. Install housing and '
Wash all parts completely and dry them using compressed air. Inspect each
tighten bolts securely.
part and service it, as necessary, or replace the part if it does not meet specifi-
32. Fill the gearcase with the recommended type and quantity of lubricant.
cation. Parts to be inspected and items to be checked are as follows:
3.3. Check gearcase lubricant level after engine has been run. Change the
• All bearings for wear and damage
@ Gear case
@ Bearing housing
@ Protection zinc
05008G24
05008G43
Step 25 Fig. 6 DT6 and DTB gearcase assembly

8-14 LOWER UNIT
14. Coat bearing housing outer edges (front and rear) with waterproof
marine grease.
~l
15. Carefully install bearing housing on propeller shaft.
16. Check propeller shaft thrust clearance.
17. When proper propeller shaft thrust clearance has been established, coat
the bearing housing bolt threads with Silicone sealer. Install housing and
® Forward gear
tighten bolts securely.
@ Clutch dog shifter 18. Install the gearcase. Fill with recommended type and quantity of lubri-
@ Propeller shaft cant.
@ Reverse gear 19. Check gearcase lubricant level after engine has been run. Change the
SHIMMING PROCEDURE
Adjust the forward gear in such a way that the tooth contact pattern produced
by rolling this gear against the pinion gear will extend from the center of the
tooth toward the toe. This is accomplished by increasing or decreasing the shim
thickness.
Be sure to produce the specified amount of backlash between the pinion gear
and forward gear. To measure the backlash, hold the pinion steady with your
hand and move the forward gear back and forth. Check the backlash at the heel.
Backlash should measure 0.0039-0.0079 in. (0.1-0.2 mm).
Be sure that there is no backlash between the reverse gear and the
pinion gear, although a small amount of backlash is permitted. To eliminate
the backlash, if any, increase the thickness of the shim behind the reverse
gear.
By means of the shim on the inner side of the forward gear and reverse gear,
adjust the thrust play of the propeller shaft to this specification: 0.002-0.020 in.
(0.05-0.50 mm).
05008G25
DT9.9 and DT15

Fig. 7 DT6 and DT8 transmission assembly
DISSASSEMBLY
• Propeller shaft and driveshaft for wear at oil seal contact points • See accompanying illustrations
• All gear teeth for damage or wear
• Dogs on clutch dog shifter for wear and damage 1. Remove the gearcase.
• Dogs on the forward and reverse gears for damage and wear 2. Secure the gearcase in a suitable holding fixture or a vise with protective
• Shifting cam and pushrod for wear jaws. If protective jaws are not available, position the gearcase upright with the
• 0-rings and oil seals for cracks, tears and wear skeg between wooden blocks in a vise.
• Propeller for nicks, bent blades or other damage and wear 3. Remove the 2 bearing housing bolts.
• Cooling circuit for clogging or other obstructions ~If the bearing housing is corroded in the prop shalt bore and cannot
• Gearcase for rusting, pitting and distortion. be removed easily by hand, carefully tap the side of the housing cap
with a rubber mallet to rotate the cap ears, then pry housing off.
ASSEMBLY
4. Attach the special tools sliding shaft (09930-30102) and propeller shaft
1. Install new forward ge~r and driveshaft bearings with installer (09914- housing remover (09950-59320) to the propeller shaft splined end.
79610) or equivalent. 5. Using the special tool, remove the bearing housing and propeller shaft
2. Fit the forward gear shim(s) over the shaft at the rear of the gear and assembly.
install into the prop shaft bore. 6. Remove the water pump.
3. Insert the pinion gear with shim(s) into the prop shaft bore. Fit the gear
into the driveshaft bore and mesh it with the forward gear.
4. Lubricate the driveshaft bearing housing oil seal lip with waterproof
marine grease. Install the housing on the driveshaft and seat into the gearcase
housing. Install housing snap ring (if used) and make sure it lits properly into
its groove.
5. Insert the driveshaft into the gearcase housing with a rotating motion
and engage the pinion gear.
6. Lubricate the shift rod 0-ring with waterproof marine grease and insert
shift rod assembly into gearcase.
7. Install shift cam stop screw.
10. Remove and discard the bearing housing bearing and oil seal.
11. Install a new housing bearing with installer (09914-79610) or equiva-
lent. Coat seal lips with waterproof marine grease. 05008G58
12. Install a new bearing housing 0-ring. Lubricate housing 0-ring and end Step 3
of propeller shaft pushrod with waterproof marine grease.

LOWER UNIT 8-15
05008G61
05008G60 05008G62
05008G65
05008G64
05008G63
7. Using closing-type snap ring pliers, remove the gearcase circlip.

8. Remove the pinion, thrust washers , shims , and thrust bearing and pull
out the driveshaft from the gearcase
9. Then remove the forward gear and shim(s). Be sure to remove all shims
and reinstall the same amount of shims.
10. Remove the shift rod collar nut.
11. Then remove the shift rod assembly.
12. Remove the reverse gear and bearing housing from the propeller shaft
assembly that had been already removed.
13. Disassemble the propeller shaft and clutch assembly.
14. After removing the clutch shifter dog spring from around the shifter, use
a drift to drive out the pin and theo slide the clutch dog shifter off the propeller
shaft. 05008G67
15. Remove the return spring from the end of the propeller shaft.
Step 15

part and service it, as necessary, or replace the part if it does not meet specifi-
cation. Parts to be inspected and items to be checked are as follows:
• Propeller shaft and driveshaft for wear at oil seal contact points
• Al I gear teeth for damage or wear
• Dogs on clutch dog shifter for wear and damage
• Dogs on the forward and reverse gears for damage and wear
• Shifting cam and pushrod for wear
05008G66 • Perform a gearcase pressure test to check the seals. Use the oil leakage
Step 14 tester (09950-69510) and air pump assembly (09821-00004) and pressurize

8-16 LOWER UNIT
1. Shaft assy., drive
2. Bearing
3. Washer
4. Shim
5. Washer
6. Bearing
7. Gear, forward
8. Gear, reverse
9. Washer
10. Shim
1 11. Thrust washer
12. Shaft assy., propeller
13. Shifter, clutch dog
14. Spring
15. Rod, push
16. Pinion
1. Case, gear 9. Oil seal

2. Bearing 10. Propeller
3. Bearing 11. Bush, propeller
12 4 Zinc, protection 12. Stopper, propeller bush
5. Plug 13. Spacer, propeller nut
6. Housing, propeller shalt 14. Nut
7. Bearing 15. Filler, waler
8. a ring 16. Rubber, exhaust seal
05008G52 05008G53
Fig. 8 Exploded view if the DT9.9 and DT15 transmission assembly Fig. 9 Exploded view of the DT9.9 and DT15 gearcase assembly
05008G54 05008G55
05008G56
Fig. 10 Inspect all gear teeth for damage Fig. 11 Dogs on clutch dog shifter for wear
or wear and damage Fig. 12 Shifting cam and pushrod for wear
the gearcase to 14.22 psi (1.0 kg/cm). With the gearcase pressurized, spray
soapy water onto the seals and check for escaping air bubbles.
• 0-rings and oil seals for cracks, tears and wear
• Propeller for nicks, bent blades or other damage and wear
• Cooling circuit for clogging or other obstructions
• Gearcase for rusting, pitting and distortion.
ASSEMBLY

1. Reassemble the clutch dog shifter. This shifter has the letter "F" on the
end meant to face the forward gear.
2. First, insert the return spring and the clutch dog shifter into the propeller
05008G57
shaft , the spring pin into the slots provided on both the propeller shaft and the
Fig. 13 Perform a gearcase pressure test to check the seals dog shifter, and finally push the pin and the push rod into the propeller shaft.

LOWER UNIT 8-17
13. Coat bearing housing outer edges (front and rear) with waterproof
marine grease.
14. Carefully install bearing housing on propeller shaft.
15. Check propeller shaft thrust clearance.
16. When proper propeller shaft end play/thrust clearance has been estab-
lished, coat the bearing housing bolt threads with a silicone sealer.
17. Use the special tool (09922-59510) to install housing and tighten bolts
to 4.5-7.0 ft. lbs. (6-10 Nm).
19. Install the gearcase. In assembling the gearcase assembly and extension
case to the driveshaft housing, apply silicone sealant to both joining faces and
assemble after aligning the dowel pins. Tighten the bolts to 11.0-14.5 ft. lbs.
(15-20 Nm).
20. Fill with recommended type and quantity of lubricant.
05008G68 21. Check gearcase lubricant level after engine has been run. Change the
Step 1
SHIMMING PROCEDURE
Transmission Gear Adjustment

THRUST WASHER & SHIM MOUNTING POSITION
If the lower unit has been rebuilt or any of the components have been
replaced, then shimming for correct gear contact and backlash will need to be
performed.
Initial selection-shim adjustment may be required.
Step 2
3. Fit the forward gear shim(s) over the shaft at the rear of the gear and
install gear/shim assembly into the prop shaft bore.
4. Insert the shift rod assembly into the gearcase bore and install the collar
nut.
5. Insert the pinion gear into the prop shaft bore. Fit the gear into the
driveshaft bore and mesh it with the forward gear.
6. Reassemble the bearing, shims and thrust washer to the driveshaft in the
same order as noted during removal.
7. Insert the driveshaft into the gearcase housing with a rotating motion
and engage the pinion gear.
8. Install a new driveshaft bearing snap ring. Make sure the snap ring fits
properly into its groove
9. Install rubber exhaust seal.
05008G71
11. Install a new bearing housing 0-ring. Lubricate housing 0-ring with
waterproof marine grease. Fig. 14 Thrust washer and shim mounting positions
Ii
Design
i Numerical index/ i Available
specification
Item Thickness
I i thickness
11=
1
1
·T· I Pinion
gear o. 7' 0.8, 0.9, 1 .0,
1.0
Shim ·~ , back-up shim (mm) I 1.1, 1.2, 1.3
5 Thrust washer -z· [ Forward gear i 0.7, 0.8, 0.9, 1.0,

1.0
1
"' back-up shim (mm) I 1.1. 1.2. 1.3 l
- Thrust bearing
v
i
1
Forward gear thrust
~Shim
CJ) 1.5 1.5
washer (mm) i
J
~::,:: ~'""
Reverse gear thrust 1.1, 1.2, 1.3, 1.4,
@ 1. 5
washer (mm) 1.5, 1.6, 1.7, 1.8, 1.
®I Reverse gear 0. 7' 0.8, 0.9, 1.0,
1.0
I back-up shim (mm) 1.1, 1.2, 1.3 I
05008G70 05008G72
Step 6 Fig. 15 Shim specification table

8-18 LOWER UNIT
Forward Gear & Pinion Gear
Concave side
• See Figure 16
The following steps need to be performed prior to adjustment. Convex side
1. Install forward gear bearing, back-up shim, forward gear, and forward
Heel
gear thrust washer. Install thrust washer, thrust bearing, thrust washer, pinion
back-up shim and pinion gear.
~when installing the forward gear back-up shim, choose the shim thin-
ner than the design specification for calculating adjustment.
~~~--TOOTH CONTACT
2. Slide drive shaft assembly down into the gearcase and install the pinion Tooth top~.4__,.._::::::::::~~ PATIERN
gear on the driveshaft splines.
3. Install the pinion gear circlip.
4. Prior to checking the tooth contact pattern, be sure a slight amount of
backlash exists between the pinion gear and forward gear by slightly rotating the 05008G76
driveshaft or forward gear by hand. If there is no backlash, reduce back-up shim Step 4
thickness. If there is too much backlash, increase the back-up shim thickness.
5. This is the optimum tooth contact. Doing a shim adjustment may be

necessary to obtain this contact pattern.
6. An example of incorrect top side toe contact. To correct this condition,
decrease the forward gear shim thickness and slightly increase the pinion gear
shim thickness.
Optimum tooth contact

approx. 1/3 of
tooth width
r;=-~
05008G74 TOE
Fig. 16 Prior to checking the tooth contact pattern, be sure a slight
amount of backlash exists between the pinion gear and forward gear
by slightly rotating the driveshafl or forward gear by hand HEEL
Convex side
05008G77
CHECKING ANO ADJUSTING TOOTH CONTACT (FORWARD/PIN/ON
GEARS) Step 5

Check tooth contact pattern using the following procedure.
1. Too correctly assess tooth contact, smear a light coating of Prussian Top side toe cotact
Blue compound on the convex surface of the forward gear.
2. Install the propeller shaft and bearing housing assembly (minus the
reverse gear and internal comQonents).
3. Push the propeller shaft inward and hold it in that position. Rotate the
driveshaft clockwise 5-6 times by hand.
4. Then pull out the propeller shaft and bearing housing and then check
the gear tooth contact pattern.
TOE
HEEL
05008G78
Step 6
~Do not set the tooth contact in this position (top side toe contact).
Damage and chipping of the pinion and forward gear may result.
7. An example of incorrect bottom side toe contact. To correct this condi-
tion, increase the forward gear shim thickness and slightly decrease the pinion
gear shim thickness.
05008G75 ~Do not set the tooth contact in this position (bottom side toe contact).
Step 3 Damage and chipping of the pinion gear may result.

LOWER UNIT 8-19
DT20, DT25 and DT30
Bottom side toe contact
DISASSEMBLY
•See Figure 18 and 19

1. Remove the propeller bearing housing bolts.
2. Obtain the following special tools:
• Sliding hammer (09930-30102)
TOE • Propeller shaft remover attachment (09950-59310).
3. Attach the special tools to the propeller shaft and using the slide ham-
mer attachment, remove the propeller bearing housing assembly and propeller
05008879
shaft assembly.
4. Remove the water pump assembly.
5. Remove the key, detach the pump case lower plate and gasket.
Step 7 6. Fit the drive shaft holder (09921-29610) to the splined end of the drive-
shaft.
7. Pad the sides of the gearcase, hold the pinion nut with a wrench, and
8. After adjusting the tooth contact pattern, install the propeller shaft, bear- turn the driveshaft with the special tool, loosening the pinion nut securing the
ing housing assembly, reverse gear and all related shims and washers. pinion gear to the driveshaft.
9. Recheck the amount of backlash by slightly rotating the drive shaft by 8. Remove the two bolts located on the driveshaft bearing housing.
hand. Backlash should not be less than when checked at the start of this entire 9. To separate the driveshaft bearing housing from the gearcase, use two 6
procedure. mm jacking bolts to separate the two components. Make sure to screw the jack-
10. If backlash is less, reduce the reverse gear back-up shim thickness. ing bolts equally to prevent damage to the bearing housing and gearcase.
10. Pull out the driveshaft with the driveshaft bearing housing.
CHECKING PROPELLER SHAFT THRUST PLAY 11. Remove the pinion gear from the gearcase.
• See Figure 17 12. Remove the forward gear with its shim and bearing.
To perform the thrust play measurement, obtain the following special tool
• Gear adjusting gauge (09951-09510). CD @
After adjusting all the gear positions, measure the propeller shaft thrust play
and if it is not within specification: 0.008-0.016 in. (0.2-0.4 mm), you must
make a shim adjustment
~Maintain the forward gear thrust washer at standard thickness (1.5
mm) and adjust only the reverse gear thrust washer with shims.
@ ii
1. Set the gear adjusting gauge to the propeller shaft.
2. Push the propeller shaft inward.
3. Hold the shaft in and set the dial gauge pointer to zero.
4. Slowly pull the propeller shaft outward and read the maximum thrust play
measurement on the dial.
• If the play is larger than specified, increase the reverse gear thrust 05008882
washer thickness.
• If the play is smaller than specified, reduce the reverse gear thrust Fig. 18 To remove the pinion needle bearing from the gearcase, use
washer thickness. the following special tools
05008881 05008883
Fig. 17 Set the gear adjusting gauge to the propeller shaft Fig. 19 Mount the plate "3" on the gearcase with two bolls "5"

8-20 LOWER UNIT
13. Take out the pinion shim. CLEANING & INSPECTION
14. Remove the screw holding the shift rod guide and pull out the shift rod
assembly. • See Figure 20
15. Using a pair of snap ring pliers, remove the circlip holding the collar
preload spring and remove the drive shaft, preload spring, spring collar and Wash all parts completely and dry them using compressed air. Inspect each
washers. part and service it, as necessary, or replace the part if it does not meet specifi-
16. Remove the dog spring from around the clutch dog shifter. cation. Parts to be inspected and items to be checked are as follows:
17. Remove the push rod from the end of the propeller shaft. • Al I bearings for wear and damage
18. Using a drift, push out the pin from the clutch dog shifter. • Propeller shaft and driveshaft for wear at oil seal contact points
19. Remove the clutch dog shifter, push pin and return spring from the pro- • All gear teeth for damage or wear
peller shaft. • Dogs on clutch dog shifter for wear and damage
20. To remove the pinion needle bearing from the gearcase, use the follow- • Dogs on the forward and reverse gears for damage and wear
ing special tools: • Shifting cam and pushrod for wear
• Remover shaft "1" (09951-49910) • Perform a gearcase pressure test to check the seals. Use the oil leakage
• Bearing "2" (09951-69910) tester (09950-69511) and air pump assembly (09821-00004) and pressurize
• Plate "3" (09951-39914) the gearcase to 14.22 psi (1.0 kg/cm). With the gearcase pressurized, spray
• Nut "4" (09951-29910) soapy water onto the seals and check for escaping air bubbles.
• Bolts "5" (01107-08408) • 0-rings and oil seals for cracks, tears and wear
• Attachment "6" (09951-19610) • Propeller for nicks, bent blades or other damage and wear
21. Remove the four stud bolts on the gearcase. • Cooling circuit for clogging or other obstructions
22. Mount the plate "3" on the gearcase with two bolts "5". • Gearcase for rusting, pitting and distortion.
23. Have the remover shaft "1" threaded through the plate so that the bear-
ing "2" stays between the plate and turning nut "7", and put it in the gearcase. ASSEMBLY
Then, install the attachment "6" and hold it with the nut "4" at the end of the
remover shaft. • See Figures 21, 22 and 23
24. Remove the pinion needle bearing "8" by turning the lower nut "7"
clockwise with the upper nut "9" held tight. Drive the pinion needle bearing into the gearcase using the following special
tools:
1. Shift rod 12. Thrust washer 23. Pin 34. Prop. shaft bearing
2. Boot 13. Washer 24. Clutch dog shifter 35. Oil seal
3. Stopper 14. Collar 25. Dog spring 36. Pinion bearing
4. Guide 15. Barrier 26. Return spring 37. Gear case assy
5. 0-ring 16. Circlip 27. Propeller shaft 38. Forward bearing
6. Magnet spacer 17. Shim 28. Thrust washer 39. Trim tab
7. Magnet 18. Pinion gear 29. Reverse gear 40. Water filter
8.Cam 19. Push rod 30. Shim 41. Prop. bush stopper
9. Drive shaft assy 20. Shim 31. 0-ring 42.Bush
10. Washer 21. Forward gear 32. Prop. shaft housing 43. Propeller
11. Spring 22. Thrust washer 33. Reverse bearing 44. Spacer
05008G84
Fig. 20 Exploded view if the DT25 and DT30 lower unit assembly

LOWER UNIT 8-21
• "1" Rotor remover slide shaft (09930-30102)
• "2" Installer shaft (09951-59910)
ii
• "3" Pinion needle bearing plate (09951-39914)
• "4" Bolts (01107-08408)
• "5" Attachment (09951-19610)
,..Make sure to thoroughly clean out the inside of the gearcase before
installation.
1. Thread the slide shaft "1" into the top of the installer shaft "2" and have
the installer shaft "2" inserted through the plate "3", then install the attachment
"5" at the shaft end with the pinion needle bearing attached to it.
**CAUTION
05008G85
When installing the pinion needle bearing, make sure lo have the
Fig. 21 Drive the pinion needle bearing into the gearcase using the stamped marks on the bearing facing up.
following special tools
2. Lay the gearcase down, and insert the installer shaft into it, making sure
of the position of the pinion needle bearing "6" that is being installed.
3. Set the gearcase upright and install the plate on the gearcase with the
two bolts "4", then install the pinion needle bearing by hitting the installer shaft
lightly until the coupler touches the plate.
**CAUTION
If the pinion needle bearing does not install smoothly, it might be
misaligned. Make sure to realign the bearing before proceeding or
damage to the bearing and gearcase may result. Do not use force to
set the bearing, just use repeated light hammering strokes on the
special tool until the bearing is seated in the gearcase.
4. Before installing the preload spring, be sure to put the end of the spring
into the notch that is provided in the inner race of the drive shaft tapered bearing.
5. Be sure to not miss the driveshaft lockwasher when putting the collar on
the preload spring. Fit the onto the collar, making the tongue of the washer
show out of the slip provided in the top of the collar, and then put on the collar.
After this, insert the thrust washer at the near side.
6. After putting on the preload spring collar, push down the collar all the
way to compress the preload spring inside, and then install the circlip to hold
the collar in place.
7. Install the shift rod and shift rod guide assembly.
8. Install the pinion shim.
05008G86 9. Install the forward gear, shim and bearing into the gearcase.
Fig. 22 Thread the slide shaft "1" into the top of the installer shall 10. Install the pinion shim into the gearcase.
"2" and have the installer shall "2" inserted through the plate "3", 11. Install the driveshaft and driveshaft bearing housing into the gearcase
then install the attachment "5" at the shall end with the pinion nee-
and tighten the retaining bolts.
12. Install the water pump assembly.
dle bearing attached to it 13. Install the pinion gear into the gearcase, making sure to mesh it with the
forward gear.
14. Using the special tool to turn the drive shaft, apply a small amount of
thread locking compound to the driveshaft threads and tighten the pinion nut to
19.5-21.5 ft. lbs. (27-30 Nm). Make sure to pad the gearcase to prevent the
wrench from damaging it.
15. The clutch dog shifter is marked for easy assembly. The end with the let-
ter "F" must face the forward gear. Be sure to mount the clutch dog shifter cor-
rectly on the propeller shaft.
16. Insert the return spring and push pin into the propeller shaft.
17. Bring the push pin to the slot, making the hole of the push pin visible in
the slot; then slide the dog shifter over the slot aligning the pin hole to the hole
in the shaft. Insert the drive spring pin through the dog shifter and hole of the
push pin.
18. Check to be sure that the pin is all the way in, with its driven end flush
with the surface of the clutch dog shifter.
19. Fit the spring snugly into the groove on the clutch dog shifter to retain
the pin in place.
After fitting the dog shifter and connecting pin on the propeller shaft, install
the reverse gear, using the forward and reverse thrust washers and reverse shim
05008G87
that were removed during disassembly.
Use the following special tools to install the bearing housing into the
Fig. 23 Lay the gearcase down, and insert the installer shall into ii,
gearcase.
making sure of the position of the pinion needle bearing "6" that is • Propeller shaft housing installer (09922-59410)
being installed • Bearing installer handle (09922-59420)

8-22 LOWER UNIT
20. With the special tool installed, drive the bearing housing into the
gearcase until it is seated firmly.
21. Tighten the propeller shaft housing bolts to 11.0-14.5 ft. lbs. (15-20
Nm).
SHIMMING PROCEDURE

• See Figure 24
PINION GEAR TO FORWARD GEAR BACKLASH
• See Figure 25
1. To measure the backlash, hold the driveshaft steady and move the for-
ward gear back and forth.
2. Check the backlash at the heel of the forward gear.
05008G89
3. If the amount of backlash is larger than 0.004-0 008 in. (0.1-0.2 mm),
Fig. 25 To measure the backlash, hold the driveshaft steady and
increase the thickness of each of the pinion gear back-up shim(s).
4. If the backlash is smaller, decrease the thickness of each shim. move the forward gear back and forth
Part Name Type of Thickness (mm) Standard Thickness (mm)

® Pinion gear back-up shim 1.7, 1.8, 1.9, 2.0, 2.1, 2.2 2.0
@ Forward gear back-up shim 0.8, 0.9, 1.0, 1.1, 1.2, 1.3, 1.4, 1.5 1.2
(Q) Forward gear thrust washer 1.5 1.5
@ Reverse gear thrust washer 0.8, 0.9, 1.0, 1.1, 1.2, 1.3 2.0
® Reverse gear back-up shim 0.2, 0.5, 0.8, 1.0 1.5
05008G88
Fig. 24 Back-up shim and thrust washer mounting locations and shim thickness chart

LOWER UNIT 8-23
CHECKING AND ADJUSTING TOOTH CONTACT (FORWARD/PIN/ON Top side toe cotact
GEARS)
1. Too correctly assess tooth contact, smear a light coating of Prussian
Blue compound on the convex surface of the forward gear.
reverse gear and internal components). TOE
driveshaft clockwise 5-6 times by hand. HEEL
4. Then pull out the propeller shaft and bearing housing and then check 05008G78
the gear tooth contact pattern. Step 6
5. This is the optimum tooth contact. Doing a shim adjustment may be
necessary to obtain this contact pattern. ,..Do not set the tooth contact in this position (lop side toe contact).
6. An example of incorrect top side toe contact. To correct this condition, Damage and chipping of the pinion and forward gear may result.
decrease the forward gear shim thickness and slightly increase the pinion gear
shim thickness. 7. An example of incorrect bottom side toe contact. To correct this condi-
TOE
HEEL
05008G79
Step 7
05008G75
Step 3
,..Do not set the tooth contact in this position (bottom side toe contact).
Damage and chipping of the pinion gear may result.
Concave side 8. After adjusting the tooth contact pattern, install the propeller shaft, bear-
ing housing assembly, reverse gear and all related shims and washers.
Convex side 9. Recheck the amount of backlash by slightly rotating the drive shaft by
hand. Backlash should not be less than when checked at the start of this entire
Heel
procedure.
10. If backlash is less, reduce the reverse gear back-up shim thickness.
PINION GEAR TO FORWARD GEAR THRUST PLAY
Obtain the following special tools to perform the measurement:
• Gear adjusting set (09951-09510)
1. Fit the propeller shaft to the forward gear and press the forward gear for-
ward by pushing with the propeller shaft. (In this case, first remove the push rod
from the propeller shalt)
05008G76 2. Set the special tool up on the driveshalt.
Step 4 3. Push the driveshalt down. Hold this position and place the gauge with its
rod pushed in approximately 2 mm.
4. Still keeping this position, zero the dial gauge. Then pull up on the drive-
Optimum tooth contact shalt and read the maximum play on the gauge.
approx. 1/3 of If the amount of backlash is larger than specified, increase the thickness of
tooth width each of the pinion gear back-up shim(s) or forward gear back-up shim(s). If
smaller, decrease the thickness of each shim.
5. When the pinion and forward gear back-up shim are determined to be the
correct size, note the amount of thrust play measured. The thrust play measure-
ment will be necessary for the adjustment of the reverse gear.
r;t -~
TOE
REVERSE GEAR THRUST PLAY ADJUSTMENT
HEEL
1. Perform the same procedure as above with the exception of installing the
propeller shalt and propeller shaft bearing housing into the gearcase.
2. If the measurement of the play is equal to the pinion gear to forward gear
Convex side measurement, the condition is correct.
05008G77
3. If the amount of play is smaller, decrease the thickness of the reverse
Step 5 gear back-up shim.

8-24 LOWER UNIT
PROPELLER SHAFT THRUST PLAY ADJUSTMENT
1. Install the dial gauge adaptor plate and dial gauge with the long rod on
the propeller shaft.
2. Push the propeller shaft inward. Hold the shaft in this position and pre-
load the dial gauge 2 mm. Now zero the gauge.
3. Pull the driveshaft slowly out and read the amount of play on the gauge.
Maximum propeller shaft thrust play is 0.008-0 016 in. (0.2-0.4 mm).
If the amount of thrust play is larger than specified, increase the thickness of the
reverse gear thrust washer. If smaller, decrease the thickness of the thrust washer.
05008G92
Fig. 26 Remove the bearing housing from the gearcase
14. Take out the forward gear, shim(s) and bearing.

15. Remove the pinion gear.
16. Remove the driveshaft bearing housing and shift rod assembly from the
gearcase.
17. Remove the driveshaft.
18. Remove the driveshaft spring housing from the gearcase.
19. Remove the two pinion washers.
05008G90
20. Pull off the driveshaft spring pin and remove the shaft spring from the
Step 2 driveshaft.
21. Pull out the push rode from the inboard end of the propeller shaft.
22. Remove the reverse gear and bearing housing from the propeller shaft
assembly.
23. Remove the clutch dog spring from around the shift dog clutch.
24. Using a drift, remove the pin from the clutch dog shifter, and slide the
shifter off the propeller shaft.
25. Remove the push pin and return spring from the end of the propeller shaft.

05008G91 part and service it, as necessary, or replace the part if it does not meet specifi-
Step 3 cation. Parts to be inspected and items to be checked are as follows:
DT35 and DT40 • Al I gear teeth for damage or wear
• Dogs on the forward and reverse gears for damage and wear
DISASSEMBLY • Shifting cam and pushrod for wear
• Perform a gearcase pressure test to check the seals. Use the oil leakage
t See Figure 26 tester (09950-69511) and air pump assembly (09821-00004) and pressurize
1. Remove the oil vent screw and oil fill screw and drain the gear oil into a soapy water onto the seals and check for escaping air bubbles.
suitable container. • 0-rings and oil seals for cracks, tears and wear
2. Loosen the clutch rod lock nut. • Propeller for nicks, bent blades or other damage and wear
3. Loosen the clutch rod turn buckle, and separate the clutch rod from the • Cooling circuit for clogging or other obstructions
shift rod. • Gearcase for rusting, pitting and distortion.
4. Separate the gearcase assembly from the drive shaft housing by remov-
ing the six attaching bolts. ASSEMBLY
5. Place the gearcase in suitable holding fixture or padded vice.
6. Remove the trim tab.
7. Remove the propeller. Liberally apply outboard motor gear oil to the forward gear, drive shaft and
8. Remove the bearing housing bolts. propeller shaft before assembly.
9. Use the following special tools to remove the propeller shaft bearing 1. Install the push pin and return spring into the end of the propeller shaft.
housing: 2. Slide the shifter onto the propeller shaft. The letter "F" marked on the
• Slide hammer (09930-30102) shifter faces toward the forward gear. Then, using a drift, install the pin through
• Propeller shaft bearing housing remover (09930-30161) the clutch dog shifter.
10. Remove the bearing housing from the gearcase. 3. Install the clutch dog spring around the dog clutch shifter.
11. Remove the water pump seal tube from the pump case. 4. Install the reverse gear and bearing housing onto the propeller shaft
12. Remove the water pump assembly. assembly.
13. Using the driveshaft holder tool (09921-29610) and a wrench, remove 5. Install the push rode into the inboard end of the propeller shaft.
the pinion gear nut. 6. Install the shaft spring and pin onto the driveshaft.
7. Install the two pinion washers.
~Make sure to pad the gearcase with rag so that the wrench won't 8. Install the driveshaft spring housing onto the gearcase.
damage or distort the gearcase. 9. Install the driveshaft.

LOWER UNIT 8-25
1. Bush, drive shaft

2. Bearing
3. Shaft, drive
4. Spring
5. Housing, drive shaft spring
6. Pinion
7. Gear, reverse
8. Bearing
9. Housing, propeller shaft
10. Bearing
11. Oil seal
12. Shaft, propeller
13. Shifter. dutch dog
14. Pin
15. Rod, push
16. Gear, forward
05008693
Fig. 27 Exploded view of the DT35 and DT40 transmission assembly
e----1
1. Grommet, water tube, upper

2. Tube, water
3. Grommet, water tube, middle
4. Grommet, water pump seal tube
5. Tube, water pump seal
2 6. Grommet, water tube, lower
7. Case, water pump
8. Key
9. Impeller, water pump
10. Panel, pump case under
11. Housing, driveshaft bearing
0
~3
05008694
Fig. 28 Exploded view of the DT35 and DT40 water pump/driveshafl housing assembly
1. Cover, gear case 8. Bearing

starboard 9. Zinc, protection
2. Bearing 10. Propeller
3. Cover, gear case 11. Stopper, propeller bush
I
& 4. Filter, water 12. Bush, propeller.
~g
5. Case assy, gear 13. Spacer, propeller nut
6. Tab, trim 14. Nut
7. Filter
I ~
10 14
3
2
'-
.
11
05008G95
Fig. 29 Exploded view of the DT35 and DT40 gearcase assembly

8-26 LOWER UNIT
10. Apply silicone sealant to both surfaces and install the driveshaft bearing 21. Install the trim tab.
housing and shift rod assembly into the gearcase. 22. Apply water proof marine grease to the splines of the driveshaft.
11. Install the forward gear, shim(s) and bearing. 23. Install the gearcase assembly onto the drive shaft housing by the six
12. Install the pinion gear. attaching bolts.
13. Using the driveshaft holder tool (09921-29610) and a wrench, tighten 24. Attach the clutch rod and shift to the clutch rod turn buckle.
the pinion gear nut to 21.7-28.9 ft. lbs. (30-40 Nm). 25. Tighten the clutch rod lock nut.
26. Fill the gearcase through the drain hole with the proper amount of gear oil
•Make sure to pad the gearcase with rag so that the wrench won't
(20.6 oz. ) until oil drips from the vent hole, then install and tighten the screws.
damage or distort the gearcase.
14. Install the water pump assembly. Make sure to fit the impeller key onto **CAUTION
the driveshaft before installing the impeller.
15. After mounting the water pump impeller, put on the pump case while Recheck the oil level and top off the gearcase after the initial opera-
turning the driveshaft clockwise by hand. Force the case onto the impeller being tion. Usually the level will need to be topped off. Failure to check this
rotated. This will ensure that the vanes are turning in the correct direction. could result in damage to the gearcase due to lack of lubrication.
Tighten the mounting nuts to 4.5-7.0 ft. lbs. (6-10 Nm).
16. Install the water pump seal tube into the pump case. SHIMMING PROCEDURE
17. Before installing the bearing housing into the gearcase, apply a coat of
water proof marine grease onto the push rod and 0-ring.
18. Use the following special tools to install the bearing housing: Transmission Gear Adjustment
• Propeller shaft bearing housing installer (09922-59410) • See Figure 30
• Installer hammer (09922-59420)
19. Install the bearing housing bolt and tighten to 11.5-14.5 ft. lbs. (15-20 Nm) PINION GEAR TO FORWARD GEAR BACKLASH
20. Install the propeller and tighten the nut, while using the drive shaft To measure the backlash, hold the driveshaft steady and move the forward
holder tool, to 36.0-43.5 ft. lbs. (50-60 Nm). gear back and forth. Check the backlash at the heel of the forward gear.
Standard
Parts Name Type of Thickness Thickness
0 Pinion gear back-up shim & thrust washer {mm) 0.5, 0.6, 0.7, 0.8, 0.9, 1.0 2.0
8 Forward gear back-up shim & thrust washer (mm) 0.5, 0.6, 0.7, 0.8, 0.9, 1.0 1.2
@ Propeller shaft front thrust washer (mm) 2.0, 2.2 2.0
0 Propeller shaft rear thrust washer {mm) 1.8, 1.9, 2.0, 2.1, 2.2, 2.3 2.0
0 Reverse gear back-up shim & thrust washer {mm) 0.5, 0.6, 0.7, 0.8, 0.9, 1.0 1.5
05008G96
Fig. 30 Thrust washer and shim locations and shim thickness chart

LOWER UNIT 8-27
If the amount of backlash is larger than 0.0039-0.0079 in. (0.1-0.2 mm),
increase the thickness of each of the pinion gear back-up shim(s). If the back- Top side toe cotact
lash is smaller, decrease the thickness of each shim.
**CAUTION
In setting the dial gauge, set the gauge rod end to contact the con-
vex side of the forward gear tooth heel end. Use care to not have
the rod contact on the neighboring tooth.
CHECKING AND ADJUSTING TOOTH CONTACT (FORWARD/PIN/ON TOE

GEARS)
• See accompanying illustrations HEEL
05008G78
1. Too correctly assess tooth contact, smear a light coating of Prussian Step 6
Blue compound on the convex surface of the forward gear
2. Install the propeller shaft and bearing housing assembly (minus the 5. This is the optimum tooth contact. Doing a shim adjustment may be
reverse gear and internal components). necessary to obtain this contact pattern.
3. Push the propeller shaft inward and hold it in that position. Rotate the 6. An example of incorrect top side toe contact. To correct this condition,
driveshaft clockwise 5-6 times by hand. decrease the forward gear shim thickness and slightly increase the pinion gear
4. Then pull out the propeller shaft and bearing housing and then check shim thickness.
,..Do not set the tooth contact in this position (top side toe contact).
Damage and chipping of the pinion and forward gear may result.
7. An example of incorrect bottom side toe contact. To correct this condi-
mo 05008G75
Step 3
TOE
Concave side
HEEL
05008G79
Convex side
Heel
Step 7
,..Do not set the tooth contact in this position (bottom side toe contact) .
.........;::-:!~~-TOOTH CONTACT Damage and chipping of the pinion gear may result.
Tooth top PATIERN
8. After adjusting the tooth contact pattern, install the propeller shaft, bear-
9. Recheck the amount of backlash by slightly rotating the drive shaft by
05008G76
hand. Backlash should not be less than when checked at the start of this entire
Step 4 procedure.
Optimum tooth contact PINION GEAR TO FORWARD GEAR THRUST PLAY

approx. 1/3 of Obtain the following special tools to perform the measurement:
tooth width • Gear adjusting set (09951-09510)
approx. 1. Fit the propeller shaft to the forward gear and press the forward gear for-
1 mm ward by pushing with the propeller shaft. (In this case, first remove the push rod
--:!: from the propeller shaft)
2. Set the special tool up on the driveshaft.
HEEL
F--
\T- -------
TOE
3. Push the driveshaft down. Hold this position and place the gauge with its
shaft and read the maximum play on the gauge.
Convex side If the amount of backlash is larger than specified, increase the thickness of
05008G77
each of the pinion gear back-up shim(s) or forward gear back-up shim(s). If
Step 5 smaller, decrease the thickness of each shim.

8-28 LOWER UNIT
correct size, note the amount of thrust play measured. The thrust play measure- DT55 and DT65
DISASSEMBLY
Perform the same procedure as above with the exception of installing the • See accompanying illustrations
propeller shaft and propeller shaft bearing housing into the gearcase.
1. If the measurement of the play is equal to the pinion gear to forward gear 1. Separate the clutch shaft and clutch rod.
measurement, the condition is correct. If the amount of play is smaller, decrease 2. Remove the gearcase.
the thickness of the reverse gear back-up shim. 3. Secure the gearcase in a suitable holding fixture or a vise with protective
jaws. If protective jaws are not available, position the gearcase upright with the
PROPELLER SHAFT THRUST PLAY ADJUSTMENT skeg between wooden blocks in a vise.
• See accompanying illustrations 4. Remove the water pump.
Maximum propeller shaft thrust play is 0.008-0.016 in. (0.2-0.4 mm).
If the amount of thrust play is larger than specified, increase the thickness of
the reverse gear thrust washer. If smaller, decrease the thickness of the thrust
wash Er.
05008890
Step 2
05008891
05008P19
Step 3 Step 4

LOWER UNIT 8-29
5. Remove the 2 bolts holding the bearing housing.
6. Using a soft mallet, tap on the bearing housing to loosen it.
7. Remove the bearing housing from the gear case.
8. Then remove the propeller shaft and reverse gear.
9. Fit an appropriate size box-end wrench over the pinion nut and pad the
sides of the gearcase housing bore to prevent distortion or damage from contact
with the wrench.
10. Holding the pinion nut with the wrench installed, turn the driveshaft
counterclockwise to loosen the pinion nut.
11. Remove the tools. Remove the pinion nut and pinion gear.
12. Remove the forward gear and shim(s).
13. Unbolt and remove the driveshaft bearing housing.
**CAUTION
The bolts must be tightened evenly otherwise the bearing housing
will be distorted and damaged during removal.
05008P62 05008P82 05008P85

8-30 LOWER UNIT
14. To separate the bearing housing, install two 6 mm bolts. CLEANING & INSPECTION
15. Tighten the bolts evenly and alternately and force the bearing housing
free. • See Figure 31
16. Remove the driveshaft and bearing housing from the gearcase as an
assembly. Wash all parts completely and dry them using compressed air. Inspect each
17. Remove the driveshaft bearing housing snap ring holding the preload part and service it, as necessary, or replace the part if it does not meet specifi-
spring collar. cation. Parts to be inspected and items to be checked are as follows:
18. Remove the preload spring collar or pre load spring and washers. • All bearings for wear and damage
19. Pull out the push rod from the propeller shaft. • Propeller shaft and driveshaft for wear at oil seal contact points
20. Remove the clutch dog spring from the shifter. • All gear teeth for damage or wear
21. Use a small drift to remove the pin from the clutch dog shifter. • Dogs on clutch dog shifter for wear and damage
22. Slide the clutch dog shifter off the propeller shaft and lay out the shifter • Dogs on the forward and reverse gears for damage and wear
components. • Shifting cam and pushrod for wear
23. Remove and discard the propeller shaft bearing housing oil seals • Check the magnet for sign of debris in the gear oil
24. The housing needle bearings. • Perform a gearcase pressure test to check the seals. Use the oil leakage
25. And the bal I bearing. tester (09950-69511) and air pump assembly (09821-00004) and pressurize
05008P44
Step 24
05008P79
05008P52
Step 25 Fig. 31 Check the magnet for sign of debris in the gear oil

LOWER UNIT 8-31
the gearcase to 14.22 psi (1.0 kg/cm). With the gearcase pressurized, spray on the preload spring. Fit the washer into the collar, making the tab on the
soapy water onto the seals and check !or escaping air bubbles. washer show out ol the slip provided in the top end ol the collar, and then put
• 0-rings and oil seals !or cracks, tears and wear on the collar. Alter this, insert the thrust washer at the near side.
• Propeller !or nicks, bent blades or other damage and wear 10. Alter putting on the preload spring collar, push down the collar all the
• Cooling circuit !or clogging or other obstructions way to compress the preload spring inside, and then install the circlip to retain
• Gearcase !or rusting, pitting and distortion. the collar.
11. When installing the driveshalt bearing housing, apply silicone sealant to
ASSEMBLY the gearcase mating surface
12. Apply water proof marine grease to the gearcase 0-ring, shill rod guide
• See accompanying illustrations 0-ring and inside the shill rod boot.
1. Replace the bearings and seals in the propeller bearing housing.
2. When replacing the oil seal, make sure to position the lip and spring to
the outside and apply waterproof marine grease to the seal lip and install the
retaining ring into the groove.
3. The clutch dog shifter is marked !or easy assembly. The end with the let-
ters "REV" is meant to lace the Reverse gear. Be sure to mount the shifter cor-
rectly on the propeller shalt.
4. Install the clutch return spring, push pin and push rod into the pro-
peller shalt.
5. Bring the push pin to the slot, making the hole ol the push pin visible in
the slot.
6. Slide the clutch dog shifter over the slot, aligning the pin hole to the
hole in the push pin and drive the spring pin into the dog shifter.
7. Install the clutch dog spring into the groove on the dog shifter so that
the spring pin does not come out.
•After connecting the dog shifter to the push pin, check to be sure that
the spring pin is all the way in, with its driven end flush with the surface
of the shifter.
8. Alter sliding the spring onto the shalt, make sure the end ol the spring
lits into the notch provided in the inner race ol the drive shalt bearing.
9. Be careful not to miss the driveshalt lock washer when putting the collar
05008P66 05008P71 05008P78

8-32 LOWER UNIT
13. Install the driveshaft, shift rod and driveshaft bearing assembly onto the 20. Use the following special tools to install the housing into the
gearcase. gearcase:
14. Tighten the bolts evenly and alternately. • Propeller shaft housing installer (09922-59410)
15. When installing the pinion nut, apply a thread locking compound to the • Bearing installer (09922-59420)
threads, pad the gearcase to prevent damage from the wrench and tighten the 21. When installing the housing, tighten the attaching bolts to 11.0-14.5 ft.
nut to 21.5-29.ft. lbs. (30-40 Nm). lbs. (15-20 Nm).
16. Install the forward gear and shim(s). Be sure to have the thrust washer 22. Install the water pump assembly.
and shim fitted between the forward gear and the tapered roller bearing in order 23. When assembling the gearcase assembly to the driveshaft housing,
to secure a proper backlash between this gear and the pinion gear. Make apply silicone sealant to both joining faces, and assemble after aligning the
absolutely sure that the thrust washer and shim are those that are found to be dowel pins, water tube wand water pump seal tube. Also apply silicone sealant
correct after measuring or adjusting the backlash. to the tightening bolt bodies and tighten the bolts to: 8 mm: 11.0-14.5 ft. lbs.
17. Install the reverse gear and thrust washer onto the propeller. (15-20 Nm); 10 mm: 24.5-29.5 ft. lbs. (34-41 Nm).
~when installing the gearcase assembly to the engine, apply some
waterproof marine grease to the splines of the driveshaft.
24. Refill the gearcase with new gear oil. After the initial running of the
engine, recheck the oil level and refill if necessary. If this is procedure is not fol-
lowed, it may lead to damage due to lack of lubrication.
25. Connect the clutch shaft and clutch rod.
SHIMMING PROCEDURE

• See Figure 32
PINION GEAR TO FORWARD GEAR BACKLASH
• See Figure 33
To measure the backlash, hold the driveshaft steady and move the
forward gear back and forth. Check the backlash at the heel of the forward
gear.
If the amount of backlash is larger than 0.004-0.008 in. (0.1-0.2 mm),
05008P34 increase the thickness of each of the pinion gear back-up shim(s). If the back-
Step 17 lash is smaller, decrease the thickness of each shim.
**CAUTION
18. Before installing the propeller shaft assembly with its bearing housing,
apply water proof marine grease to the push rod 0-ring. In setting the dial gauge, set the gauge rod end to contact the con-
19. Before inserting the propeller shaft assembly into the gearcase, check to vex side of the forward gear tooth heel end. Use care to not have
be sure that the cam portion is facing toward the propeller shaft. the rod contact on the neighboring tooth.
05008G99
Step 19

LOWER UNIT 8-33
--'--·,.-~-- ... ··--

St~ndard
Parts Name Type of Thickness
Thickness
·---
0 Pinion gear back-up shim (mm) 1.0, 1.1, 1.2, 1.3, 1.4, 1.5, 1.6 1.4
·-
8 Forward gear back -up shim (mm) 0.5, 0.6, 0.7, 0.8, 0.9, 1.0 1.2
-
@ Propeller shaft front thrust washer (mm) 2.0 2.0
0 Propeller shaft rear thrust washer {mm) 1.8, 1.9, 2.0, 2.1, 2.2, 2.3 2.0
0 Reverse gear back-up shim (mml 0.5, 0.6, 0.7, 0.8, 0.9, 1.0 1.0
05008G1A
Fig. 32 Thrust washer and shim locations and shim thickness chart
reverse gear and internal components).
driveshaft clockwise 5-6 times by hand.
05008G2A
Fig. 33 Correct gauge position for measuring backlash
CHECKING ANO ADJUSTING TOOTH CONTACT (FORWARD/PINION

GEARS)
Check tooth contact pattern using the following procedure. 05008G75
1. Too correctly assess tooth contact, smear a light coating of Prussian
Blue compound on the convex surface of the forward gear. Step 3

8-34 LOWER UNIT
4. Then pull out the propeller shaft and bearing housing and then check

Concave side
Convex side
Heel
TOE
HEEL
05008G79
'...:!!!!P-o~--TOOTH CONTACT
Tooth top_:~~-7".::::::::::=::~ PATTERN
Step 7
05008G76
Step 4 7. An example of incorrect bottom side toe contact. To correct this condi-
5. This is the optimum tooth contact. Doing a shim adjustment may be _.Do not set the tooth contact in this position (bottom side toe contact).
necessary to obtain this contact pattern. Damage and chipping of the pinion gear may result.
8. After adjusting the tooth contact pattern, install the propeller shaft, bear-
Optimum tooth contact 9 Recheck the amount of backlash by slightly rotating the drive shaft by
approx. 1/3 of hand. Backlash should not be less than when checked at the start of this entire
procedure.
tooth width
Obtain the following special tools to perform the measurement:
r;=-~
TOE 1. Fit the propeller shaft to the forward gear and press the forward gear for-
from the propeller shaft)
HEEL 2. Set the special tool up on the driveshaft.
Convex side rod pushed in approximately 2 mm.
05008G77 4. Still keeping this position, zero the dial gauge. Then pull up on the drive-
Step 5 shaft and read the maximum play on the gauge.
If the amount of backlash is larger than specified, increase the thickness of
each of the pinion gear back-up shim(s) or forward gear back-up shim(s). If
smaller, decrease the thickness of each shim.
6. An example of incorrect top side toe contact. To correct this condition, 5. When the pinion and forward gear back-up shim are determined to be the
decrease the forward gear shim !hickness and slightly increase the pinion gear correct size, note the amount of thrust play measured. The thrust play measure-
shim thickness. ment will be necessary for the adjustment of the reverse gear.
_.Do not set the tooth contact in this position (top side toe contact).
Damage and chipping of the pinion and forward gear may result. REVERSE GEAR THRUST PLAY ADJUSTMENT
Perform the same procedure as above with the exception of installing the
Top side toe cotact 1. If the measurement of the play is equal to the pinion gear to forward gear
measurement, the condition is correct. If the amount of play is smaller, decrease
the thickness of the reverse gear back-up shim.
TOE load the dial gauge 2 mm. Now zero the gauge.
HEEL Maximum propeller shaft thrust play is 0.008-0.016 in. (0.2-0.4 mm).
05008G78 If the amount of thrust play is larger than specified, increase the thickness of
the reverse gear thrust washer. If smaller, decrease the thickness of the thrust
Step 6
washer.

LOWER UNIT 8-35
05008G90
Step 2
05008G4A
Step 7
7. Remove the snap ring with a pair of snap ring pliers.

8. Install the bearing housing remover (09930-39410) and special bolts
(09950-59520)
05008G91
Step 3
DT75 and DT85
DISASSEMBLY

2. Secure the gearcase in a suitable holding fixture or a vise with protective
jaws. If protective jaws are not available, position the gearcase upright with the Step 8
gearcase skeg held between wooden blocks in a vise.
3. Remove the trim tab.
4. Remove the propeller. _ 9. Remove the propeller shaft bearing housing assembly.
5. Remove the water pump. 10. Remove and discard the propeller shaft bearing housing oil seals and
6. Remove the seal ring and housing washer. bearing.
11. Attach driveshaft holder tool (09950-79510) to the top of the drive-
shaft.
05008G3A 05008G6A
Step 6 Step 11

8-36 LOWER UNIT
12. Fit an appropriate size box-end wrench over the pinion nut and pad the CLEANING & INSPECTION
sides of the gearcase prop shaft bore to prevent the wrench from damaging or
distorting the gearcase prop shaft bore. • See Figures 34, 35 and 36
13. Holding pinion nut with the wrench, turn the driveshaft counterclockwise
to loosen the pinion nut. Wash all parts completely and dry them using compressed air. Inspect each
14. Remove the tools. Remove the pinion nut and pinion gear. part and service it, as necessary, or replace the part if it does not meet specifi-
15. Remove the driveshaft bearing housing and the shift rod. cation. Parts to be inspected and items to be checked are as follows:
16. Remove the driveshaft, preload spring and thrust bearing as an assembly. • All bearings for wear and damage
17. Remove the driveshaft spring collar from the gearcase bore. • Propeller shaft and driveshaft for wear at oil seal contact points
18. Remove the driveshaft thrust washers from the gearcase bore. • Al I gear teeth for damage or wear
19. Remove the forward gear and thrust washer. • Dogs on clutch dog shifter for wear and damage
20. Slide all components except the clutch dog from the propeller shaft. • Dogs on the forward and reverse gears for damage and wear
Disassemble the propeller shaft clutch assembly. • Shifting cam and pushrod for wear
21. Use a drift to drive the pin out of the clutch dog shifter. • Check the magnet for sign of debris in the gear oil
22. From the end of the propeller shaft, remove the push pin and return • Perform a gearcase pressure test to check the seals. Use the oil leakage
spring. tester (09950-69511) and air pump assembly (09821-00004) and pressurize
05008G9A
05008G7A 05008GBA
05008G38
05008G28
05008G18
05008G58 05008G68
05008G48

LOWER UNIT 8-37
1. Gear case set 8. Drain plug

1. Drive shaft 18. Pin
2. Water filter 9. Propeller bushing stopper
3. Pinion bearing
2. Shim 19. Clutch dog shifter
10. Propeller
3. Thrust washer spring
4. Gear case seal ring 11. Propeller nut spacer
4. Thrust bearing 20. Return spring
5. Protection zinc 12. Lock nut washer
5. Spring 21. Propeller shaft
6. Trim tab 13. Nut
6. Thrust washer 22. Shim
7. Gasket 14. Protection zinc assy
7. Pinion nut 23. Thrust washer
8. Spring collar 24. Shim
9. Pinion/Gear set 25. Reverse gear bearing
10. Forward gear radial 26. 0 ring
bearing 27. Propeller shaft housing
11. Thrust bearing 28. Propeller shaft bearing
12. Thrust washer 29. Propeller shaft oil seal
13. Washer 30. Ring
14. Thrust washer 31. Housing ring
15. Push rod 32. Housing washer
16. Push pin 33. Seal ring
17. Clutch dog shifter
05008G78
Fig. 34 Exploded view of the DT75 and DT85 lower unit component locations

8-38 LOWER UNIT
ASSEMBLY

1. Install a new propeller shalt housing bearing with an appropriate
installer.
2. Install new propeller shaft housing oil seals and a new housing 0-
3 ring. Coat the seal lips and 0-ring with an appropriate waterproof marine
1. Clutch control rod grease.
2. Clutch shaft side arm 3. Remove and discard the driveshaft bearing housing oil seal. Install a
3. Bush new seal with an appropriate installer. Coat seal lips with waterproof marine
4. Clutch shaft grease.
4. Lubricate all parts with Suzuki Outboard Motor Gear Oil.
5. Shift upper rod 5. Install the driveshalt spring thrust washer in the sequence shown.
6. Shifting rod guide
7. Shift cam
8. Dust seal
9. Magneto holder
10. Magneto
5
05008G5E
05008G8B Step 5
Fig. 35 Exploded view of the DT75 and DT85 clutch and shift rod
assembly
6. Install the driveshalt spring collar into the gearcase bore.
7. Install the driveshaft, preload spring and thrust bearing as an assem-
bly.
8. Install the shift rod assembly.
9. Install the forward gear in this order: thrust bearing, thrust washer, for-
ward gear back-up shim and the forward gear.
10. Install the pinion gear into the propeller shaft bore and mesh with the
forward gear.
11. Holding the pinion gear in place, install the driveshalt assembly into the
gearcase. Rotate shalt to align its splines with those of the pinion gear and seat
the gear on the shalt.
12. Coat the pinion nut threads with a small amount of thread locking com-
pound.
13. Position nut over driveshaft threads in prop shalt bore. Start nut by
hand.
14. Hold pinion gear nut with an appropriate size box-end wrench and pad
the sides of the gearcase prop shalt bore to prevent the wrench from damaging
or distorting the prop shaft bore.
15. Attach the driveshalt holder tool (09950-79510) to the top of the drive-
shaft Rotate driveshaft and tighten the pinion gear nut to 43.5-50.5 ft lbs.
(60-70 Nm).
16. Check the forward gear backlash. If not within specification, refer to the
05008P79
shimming section.
Fig. 36 Check the magnet for sign of debris in the gear oil 17. Temporarily install the propeller shalt/bearing housing assembly. Check

LOWER UNIT 8-39
05008G6E
Step 9
pinion gear depth, reverse gear backlash and gear tooth contact pattern. If not 25. When installing the clutch push rod, liberally coat the push rod with
within specification, refer to the shimming section. waterproof marine grease. Then install the clutch push rod into the propeller shaft.
18. Coat gearcase and driveshaft bearing housing mating surfaces with a 26. Install the propeller shaft/bearing housing assembly into the propeller
silicone sealant and install the housing. Tighten fasteners securely. shaft bore. Use shaft housing installer (09922-59410) and installer handle
19. Lubricate the propeller shaft bearing housing 0-ring and the shift mech- (09922-59420).
anism pushrod with waterproof marine grease. 27. Coat the bearing housing bolts with a small amount of thread locking
20. Reassemble the propeller shaft and clutch dog shifter assembly. The end compound and tighten securely.
of the shifter with the letter "F" is meant to face the forward gear. 28. Install the water pump.
21. First insert the clutch push pin and return spring into the propeller shaft. 29. Install the gearcase. Fill with recommended type and quantity of lubricant.
22. Next bring the push pin to the slot, making the hole of the push pin visi- 30. Check gearcase lubricant level after engine has been run. Change the
ble in the slot. lubricant after the first 10 hours of operation.
23. Then slide the dog shifter over to the slot, aligning its pin hole to the
hole. SHIMMING PROCEDURE
24. Drive the spring pin into the dog shifter and push pin.
,..After connecting the dog shifter to the push pin, check to be sure that The DT75 and DT85 transmission gears (forward, reverse and pinion) are
the spring pin is all the way in, with its driven end flush with the surface designed so that the tooth bearing can be adjusted without using special
of the shifter. tools.
05008G7E
Step 25

8-40 LOWER UNIT
On these models, all gears both spare and mounted, are subjected to tooth bear-
ing adjustment at the factor and are marked with the difference in millimeters
between the designed dimensions and the actual dimensions. At the same time, the
difference is stamped on the anti-ventilation plate (where the trim tab is mounted).
When gears or the gearcase are replaced by a new component, it is neces-
sary to compare the values indicated on both the old parts and the new parts to
determine the thickness of the shim to be used.

SHIM ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE
When only gears are replaced, shim adjustment should be made by compar-
ing the values that are stamped on the gears.
1. Pinion gear shim adjustment. When the actual dimension is larger than
the standard dimension as shown in the illustration, the gear has a "+mm"
mark on it. On the contrary, if smaller it has a "- mm" mark. For example, when
the actual dimension is 0.2 mm longer, the pinion gear is marked "+0.2 mm". 05008G1C
Accordingly, the thickness of the shim mounted is 1.0 mm which is 0.2 mm
thinner than the standard thickness of 1.2 mm. Fig. 38 Stamp mark location
--·--· .- -··--- ·-
Standard
·--
Parts Name Type of Thickness
Thickness
0 Pinion gear back-up shim (mm) 1.0, 1.1, 1.2, 1.3, 1.4, 1.5, 1.6
-------
1.4
·-
@ Forward gear back-up shim (mm) 0.5, 0.6, 0.7, 0.8, 0.9, 1.0 1.2
-
@ Propeller shaft front thrust washer (mm) 2.0 2.0
0 Propeller shaft rear thrust washer (mm) 1.8, 1.9, 2.0, 2.1, 2.2, 2.3 2.0
0 Reverse gear back-up shim (mml 0.5, 0.6, 0.7, 0.8, 0.9, 1.0 1.0
05008G1A
Fig. 37 DT75 and DT85 shim locations

LOWER UNIT 8-41
Forward ge~r.~ -~~-+-R_ev_m_e_ge-<a'_
f B ' B
1~ A
A : Actual dimension A : Actual dimension A : Actual dimension
B : Standard dimension B : Standard dimension B : Standard dimention
05008G2C 05008G3C 05008G4C
Mark on new gear

- 0.4 -0.3 -0.2 - 0.1 0 + 0.1 + 0.2 + 0.3 + 0.4
- 0.4 ~ -0.1 -0.2 -0.3 - 0.4 -0.5 -0.6 -0.7 -0.8
-0.3 + 0.1 ~ -0.1 -0.2 -0.3 - 0.4 -0.5 -0.6 -0.7
....<O
Q)
-0.2 + 0.2 + 0.1 ~ -0.1 -0.2 -0.3 - 0.4 -0.5 -0.6
Cl
32 - 0.1 + 0.3 + 0.2 + 0.1 ~ -0.1 -0.2 -0.3 - 0.4 -0.5
0
c:
0
0 + 0.4 + 0.3 + 0.2 + 0.1 ~ -0.1 -0.2 -0.3 -0.4
~
....
<O
+ 0.1 + 0.5 + 0.4 + 0.3 + 0.2 + 0.1 ~ - 0.1 -0.2 -0.3
~ + 0.2 + 0.6 + 0.5 + 0.4 + 0.3 + 0.2 + 0.1 ~ -0.1 -0.2
+ 0.3 + 0.7 + 0.6 + 0.5 + 0.4 + 0.3 + 0.2 + 0.1 -0.1
+ 0.4 + 0.8 + 0.7 + 0.6 + 0.5 + 0.4 + 0.3 + 0.2 + 0.1 ~
05008G5C
Step 4
2. Forward gear shim adjustment. The forward gear is also marked as to the
differences between the actual and standard dimensions. When the actual +0.2mm
~
dimension is larger than the standard, the gear has a "+ mm" mark. When the
dimension is smaller, it has a "-mm" mark. For example, when the actual
dimension is 0.2mm larger than the standard, the gear is marked "+0.2mm".
Accordingly, the thickness of the shim for the forward gear is 1.0 mm, which is
0.2 mm thinner than the standarathickness of 1.2 mm. When the forward gear , - -p;n;o:n gear
is replaced, the shim adjustment can be done in the same manner as the pinion
gear. I I
~
3. Reverse gear shim adjustment. The reverse gear is also marked the same
as the forward gear. On the reverse gear, the adjustment shim is available in I
only two types: 0.2 mm and 0.5 mm. Therefore, a desired shim thickness may Forward gear Reverse gear
not be available in some instances. In this case, a thinner shim should be used
so that the sum of the actual gear and shim thickness. It should be noted that
when the desired shim thickness is not obtainable, it will be 0.1 mm or 0.3 mm.
In other cases, either one of the 0.2 mm and 0.5 mm shims will be suitable.
4. This shim thickness chart shows the increases and decreases in shim
thickness according to the thickness of the old and new gears.
~The chart shows the thickness of new gears on the top line and old
gears on the left. Each box in the chart shows an increase or decrease B
according to the old and new gears. A
5. Forward and pinion gear adjustment when the gearcase is replaced. As
shown, the difference between the actual and standard dimensions is marked on A : Actual dimention
where the trim tab is located. When the gearcase is replaced, compare the val-
ues on both old and new gearcases, and make an adjustment on shim thick- B : Standard dimention
05008G6C
ness. The stamped marks on the cases are: F mm (on the forward gear side); P
mm (on the pinion gear side). Step 5

8-42 LOWER UNIT
Mark on new gear case
-0.4 -0.3 -0.2 -0.1 0 + 0.1 + 0.2 + 0.3 + 0.4
- 0.4 ~ + 0.1 + 0.2 + 0.3 + 0.4 + 0.5 + 0.6 + 0.7 + 0.8
Q)
-0.3 - 0.1 ~ + 0.1 + 0.2 + 0.3 + 0.4 + 0.5 + 0.6 + 0.7
"'
Cl!
-0.2 -0.2 -0.1 + 0.1 + 0.2 + 0.3 + 0.4 + 0.5 + 0.6
...
(J
~
Cl!
Q) -0.1 -0.3 -0.2 -0.1 + 0.1 + 0.2 + 0.3 + 0.4 + 0.5
Cl
"C
0 0 -0.4 -0.3 -0.2 -0.1 ~ + 0.1 + 0.2 + 0.3 + 0.4
c:
0 + 0.1 -0.5 -0.4 -0.3 -0.2 -0.1 ~ + 0.1 + 0.2 + 0.3
~
...
('(! + 0.2 -0.6 -0.5 - 0.4 -0.3 -0.2 -0.1 ~ + 0.1 + 0.2
~
+ 0.3 -0.7 -0.6 -0.5 - 0.4 -0.3 -0.2 - 0.1 ~ + 0.1
+ 0.4 -0.8 -0.7 -0.6 -0.5 -0.4 -0.3 -0.2 -0.1 ~
05008G7C
Step 6
6. When replacing the gearcase, choose forward gear and pinion gear 2. While pushing the propeller shaft, hold it firmly by hand so that it dies
adjustment values according to the chart. The chart shows the marks on new not turn. Using the driveshalt holder (09950-79510), slowly rotate the drive-
gearcases on the top and those on old gearcases on the right. Each box indi- shalt about 5 turns and then remove the forward gear from the propeller shaft.
cates an increase or decrease in shim thickness on the forward gear side. Check the red lead paste to see whether the gear tooth contact is correct or not.
Example: When the old gearcase has a F -0.2 mark, and the new gearcase has a
F +0.1 mark, a +0.3 mm thick shim should be added to the value measured.
Length of tooth contact
PINION GEAR TO FORWARD GEAR BACKLASH pattern= About 1/3
of tooth width
t See Figure 39
To measure the backlash, hold the driveshalt steady and move the forward
gear back and forth. Check the backlash at the heel of the forward gear.
II the amount of backlash is larger than 0 002-0.012 in. (0.05-0.3 mm),
increase the thickness of each of the pinion gear back-up shim(s). II the back-
lash is smaller, decrease the thickness of each shim.
**CAUTION
In setting the dial gauge, set the gauge rod end to contact the con-
vex side of the forward gear tooth heel end. Use care to not have
OSOOSGSC
the rod contact on the neighboring tooth.
Step 2
3. This illustration shows a top side toe contact. In this case, decrease the
forward gear shim thickness and increase the pinion gear shim thickness.
~The top side toe contact will result in a chipped forward gear tooth or
damage to a tooth bottom of the pinion gear.
Top side toe contact
05008G2A TOE
Fig. 39 Correct gauge position for measuring backlash HEEL
05008G9C
CHECKING ANO ADJUSTING TOOTH CONTACT (FORWARD/PIN/ON
GEARS)
t See accompanying illustrations Step 3
1. Coat the entire surface of the forward gear with red lead paste and install
the propeller shalt and related parts into the gearcase. It is unnecessary to 4. This illustration shows a bottom side toe contact. In this case, increase
install the propeller shaft housing nuts, housing ring and housing washer. the forward gear shim thickness and decrease the pinion gear shim thickness.

LOWER UNIT 8-43
Push rod
Shift rod
05008G1E
05008G2E
Step 4 Step 1
,..If this tooth bearing position is not correct, the pinion gear tooth may
be chipped. This problem must be corrected.
Obtain the following special tools to perform the measurement
1. Fit the propeller shaft to the forward gear and press the forward gear for-
from the propeller shaft)
2. Set the special tool up on the driveshaft.
shaft and read the maximum play on the gauge
If the amount of backlash is larger than specified, increase the thickness of
each of the pinion gear back-up shim(s) or forward gear back-up shim(s). If 05008G3E
smaller, decrease the thickness of each shim. Step 2

correct size, note the amount of thrust play measured. The thrust play measure-
1. Perform the same procedure as above with the exception of installing the
2. If the measurement of the play is equal to the pinion gear to forward gear
measurement, the condition is correct If the amount of play is smaller, decrease
the thickness of the reverse gear back-up shim.
the propel !er shaft.
3. Pull the driveshaft slowly out and read the amount of play on the gauge. 05008G4E
Maximum propeller shaft thrust play is 0.002-0.012 in. (0.05-0.3 mm). Step 3
If the amount of thrust play is larger than specified, increase the thickness of the
reverse gear thrust washer. If smaller, decrease the thickness of the thrust washer. insertion of the propeller shaft assembly when the pushrod has reached the
ADJUSTING THE CLUTCH ON GEARCASE SIDE point D. Measure the dimension B.
4. After dimensions "A" and "B" have been measured, calculate the clear-
t See accompanying illustrations ance dimension at the point C, using the following formula: C= A-B-35.5 =
0.9 to 1.4 mm.
**CAUTION
The following adjustments should be carried out only after the tooth
**CAUTION
contact adjustments have been completed. If the clearance dimension at the point C is within a range of 0.9
mm to 1.4 mm, the adjustment is satisfactory. However, if the
1. Set the detent shift position at the neutral position clearance does not conform to the specification, select a pushrod
2. With the propeller shaft removed, measure the dimension from the rear from among the following pushrods available to bring the clearance
end of the gearcase to the dog section surface of the forward gear (dimension within specification.
"A") with vernier calipers.
3. Gently insert the propeller shaft assembly into the gearcase until you can • 2.44 in. (62 mm): No identification mark
confirm that the forward end of the pushrod attached at the front end of the pro- • 2.42 in. (61.5 mm): One line
peller shaft assembly lightly contacts the detent shift side (point "D"). Stop the • 2.46 in. (62.5 mm): Two lines

8-44 LOWER UNIT
16. Remove the driveshaft spring collar from the gearcase bore.
DT115 and DT140 17. Remove the driveshaft thrust washers from the gearcase bore.
18. Remove the clutch rod and shift rod guide housing from the gearcase.
DISASSEMBLY 19. Slide all components except the clutch dog from the propeller shaft.
20. Disassemble the propeller shaft clutch assembly.
1. Remove the gearcase. 21. Clean and inspect all parts.
2. Secure the gearcase in a suitable holding fixture or a vise with protective 22. If the inspection of the forward gear bearing indicates replacement is
jaws. If protective jaws are not available, position the gearcase upright with the necessary, perform the following procedure:
gearcase skeg held between wooden blocks in a vise. • Install bearing housing remover (09930-39411) using the 2 long bolts
3. Remove the water pump. from tool (09930-39430).
4. Remove the 2 bolts holding the bearing housing. • Remove forward gear bearing housing with a slide hammer
5. Install the bearing housing remover (09930-39411) and special bolts (09930-30102).
(09930-39430). • Use an appropriate installer to install a new bearing
6. Remove the propeller shaft/bearing housing assembly. 23. Remove and discard the propeller shaft bearing housing oil seals and
7. Remove the driveshaft bearing housing fasteners. bearing.
8. Pry the driveshaft bearing housing free and slide it up and off of the 24. Install a new propeller shaft housing bearing with an appropriate
driveshaft. installer.
9. Carefully remove the driveshaft thrust bearing and shim from the bear- 25. Install new propeller shaft housing oil seals and a new housing 0-ring.
ing housing. Coat the seal lips and 0-ring with an appropriate waterproof marine grease.
10. Attach driveshaft holder tool (09921-29410) to the top of the driveshaft. 26. Remove and discard the driveshaft bearing housing oil seal. Install a
11. Fit an appropriate size box-end wrench over the pinion nut and pad the new seal with an appropriate installer. Coat seal lips with waterproof marine
sides of the gearcase prop shaft bore to prevent the wrench from damaging or grease.
distorting the gearcase prop shaft bore.
12. Holding pinion nut with the wrench, turn the driveshaft counterclockwise CLEANING & INSPECTION
to loosen the pinion nut.
13. Remove the tools. Remove the pinion nut and pinion gear. • See Figures 40 and 41
14. Remove the forward gear, thrust washer and shim(s). Wash all parts completely and dry them using compressed air. Inspect each
15. Remove the driveshaft, preload spring and thrust bearing as an assem- part and service it, as necessary, or replace the part if it does not meet specifi-
bly. cation. Parts to be inspected and items to be checked are as follows:
CD Pinion gear back-up shim

® Thrust washer (T: 4.25)
@ Driveshaft thrust bearing
© Driveshaft
@Spring
®Collar
<J) Thrust washer (T: 2.5)
@ Thrust washer (T: 2.5)
® Pinion gear
@Nut
@ Forward gear bearing housing
@ Forward gear bearing
@ Forward gear back-up shim
® Thrust washer (T: 5.25)
@ Forward gear thrust bearing
@ Forward gear
@ Thrust washer (T: 3.0)
@ Push..-od
@Push pin
@ Clutch dog shifter
@Pin
@Spring
®Spring
@ Propeller shaft
@ Thrust washer
@ Reverse gear
@ Reverse gear back-up shim
® Reverse gear bearing
@O·ring
® Propeller shaft housing
@ Propeller shaft bearing
@Oil seal
@Ring
05008G8E
Fig. 40 Exploded view of the DT115 and DT140 lower unit component locations

LOWER UNIT 8-45
Fig. 41 Check the magnet for sign of debris in the gear oil

• All gear teeth for damage or wear
Dogs on the forward and reverse gears for damage and wear
• Check the magnet for sign of debris in the gear oil
• Perform a gearcase pressure test to check the seals. Use the oil leakage
tester (09950-69511) and air pump assembly (09821-00004) and pressurize
ASSEMBLY
• See Figure 42 05008G9E
1. Install a new propeller shaft housing bearing with an appropriate Fig. 42 Install the clutch rod and shill rod guide into the gearcase
installer.
2. Install new propeller shaft housing oil seals and a new housing 0-ring.
Coat seal lips and 0-ring with waterproof marine grease. 19. Attach driveshaft holder tool (09921-29410) to the top of the driveshaft.
3. Remove and discard the driveshaft bearing housing oil seal. Install a new Rotate driveshaft and tighten the pinion gear nut to specification.
seal with an appropriate installer. Coat seal lips with waterproof marine grease. 20. Check forward gear backlash.
4. Assemble the propeller shaft components according to the illustrations. 21. Temporarily install the propeller shaft/bearing housing assembly. Check
5. Lubricate all parts with Suzuki Outboard Motor Gear Oil. pinion gear depth, reverse gear backlash and gear tooth contact pattern ..
6. Install the clutch rod and shift rod guide into the gearcase. 22. Coat gearcase and driveshaft bearing housing mating surfaces with a
7. Before inserting the shift rod guide housing assembly, check to be sure silicone sealer and install the housing.
that the cam portion is facing toward the propeller shaft. 23. Lubricate the propeller shaft bearing housing 0-ring and the shift mech-
8. Make sure that the dowel pins are in position. Tighten the bolts securely anism pushrod with waterproof marine grease.
and make sure the unit shifts smoothly. 24. Install the propeller shaft/bearing housing assembly into the propeller
9. Install the two-driveshaft thrust washers into the gearcase bore. shaft bore. Use shaft housing installer (09922-59410) and installer handle
10. Install the driveshaft spring collar into the gearcase bore. (09922-59420). .
11. Install the driveshaft, preload spring and thrust bearing as an assembly. 25. Coat the bearing housing bolts with a small amount of thread locking
12. Install the shift rod assembly. compound and tighten securely.
13. Install the shim, thrust washer and thrust bearing on the forward gear in 26. Install the water pump.
that order. Install the forward gear assembly into the gearcase. 27. Install the gearcase. Fill with recommended type and quantity of lubri-
_.When installing the forward gear bearing housing, align the groove in cant.
the gearcase with the pin on the housing. 28. Check gearcase lubricant level after engine has been run. Change the
forward gear. SHIMMING PROCEDURE
15. Holding the pinion gear in place, install the driveshaft assembly into the
gearcase. Rotate shaft to align its splines with those of the pinion gear and seat
gear on shaft. Pinion gear adjustment
16. Coat the pinion nut threads with a small amount of thread locking com-
• See Figure 43
pound.
17. Position nut over driveshaft threads in prop shaft bore. Start nut by Before installing the driveshaft assembly into the gearcase, perform the pin-
hand. ion gear adjustment using the following method.
18. Hold pinion gear nut with an appropriate size box-end wrench and pad 1. Assemble the bearing "3", thrust washer "2", shim "1" and driveshaft
side of prop shaft bore to prevent damage from contact with the wrench. bearing housing to the driveshaft.

8-46 LOWER UNIT
V4 and V6
® ®
DISASSEMBLY

2. Secure the gearcase in a suitable holding fixture or a vise with protective
jaws. II protective jaws are not available, position the gearcase upright with the
gearcase skeg placed between wooden blocks in a vise.
3. Push down the clutch rod and place the transmission in forward gear.
4. Pull oil the cotter pin on the propeller.
5. Remove the propeller nut while using the driveshaft holder tool
(09921-28710) to hold the splined end of the driveshaft. Remove the spacer,
washer propeller stopper and then the propeller.
6. Remove the bolts and lift oil the water pump case and impeller.
A
05008G1F
Fig. 43 Assemble the bearing "3", thrust washer "2", shim "1" and
driveshaft bearing housing to the driveshaft
**CAUTION
Use a thinner shim "1" than the standard shim so that the clear-
ance "B" will exist.
2. Position the shimming gauge "A" (09951-09420) horizontally in a vise

and tighten securely.
3. Insert the driveshaft through the shimming gauge "A" opening and
assemble the pinion gear "9" and nut "1 O" to the driveshaft. Tighten the pinion
nut "10" and driveshaft bearing housing bolt "11'' to the shimming gauge "A".
4. Hold the driveshaft against the bearing housing "12" while measuring the
clearance between the gauge and flat edge of the pinion gear "9" with a feeler
gauge. Measured clearance "B'' plus thickness of the shim "1" is the total shim
thickness to be used in the gear housing reassembly to obtain the correct pinion
gear position.
~Always use ONE shim.
Forward Gear Adjustment
After installing the forward gear and driveshaft assembly in the gearcase,
using the forward gear back-up shim that was removed during disassembly,
perform the forward gear adjustment using the following method.
1. Remove the gearcase drain plug and install the gear adjusting gauge
(09951-09510).
**CAUTION
When adjusting the dial gauge, align the gauge rod end so that it
contacts the convex side of the forward gear tooth at the heel end.
Do not allow the rod to contact the neighboring tooth.
2. Read the backlash by moving the forward gear slightly back and forth by
hand.
II the amount of backlash is larger than specified: 0.006-0.012 in. (0.15-0.3
mm), increase the thickness of the forward gear back-up shim. II smaller,
decrease the thickness of the forward gear back-up shim.
Propeller Shafi Thrust Play Adjustment

1. Install the dial gauge adaptor plate and dial gauge with long rod on the
propeller shalt.
load the dial indicator 2 mm. Then zero the dial.
3. With the shaft pushed in, slowly pull out the shaft and read the maximum
play indicated on the gauge. Play should read 0.008-0.016 in. (0.2-0.4 mm).
II the amount of thrust play is larger than specified, increase the thickness of
the reverse gear thrust washer. II smaller, decrease the thickness. 05008P1D
Thrust washers are available in the following thicknesses: 1.0, 1.2, 1.3, 1.4,
1.6 mm. Standard thickness is 2.4 mm. Step 6

LOWER UNIT 8-47
05008P4K 05008P3D 05008G4f
7. Remove the key. Remove the pump case lower plate and the gasket. CLEANING & INSPECTING
8. Use the shift rod and shift the transmission back to neutral. Remove the
bolts and lift off the shift unit. • See Figures 44, 45, 46 and 47
9. Straighten the tabs on the lockwasher. Remove the key from the groove
in the gearcase and lockwasher. Wash all parts completely and dry them using compressed air. Inspect each
10. Install the propeller shaft stopper remover/installer tool (09951-18710) part and service it, as necessary, or replace the part if it does not meet specifi-
and remove the stopper and lockwasher. cation. Parts to be inspected and items to be checked are as follows:
11. Install the flywheel rotor remover tool (09930-39411) and propeller • All bearings for wear and damage
shaft housing remover arms (09950-58710) onto the housing. • Propeller shaft and driveshaft for wear at oil seal contact points
12. Remove the propeller shaft/bearing housing assembly. • All gear teeth for damage or wear
13. Attach the driveshaft holder tool (09921-29410) to the top of the drive- • Dogs on clutch dog shifter for wear and damage
shaft. • Dogs on the forward and reverse gears for damage and wear
,..Fit an appropriate size box-end wrench over the pinion nut and pad • Check the magnet for sign of debris in the gear oil
the sides of the gearcase prop shaft bore to prevent the wrench from • Perform a gearcase pressure test to check the seals. Use the oil leakage
damaging or distorting the prop shaft bore. tester (09950-69511) and air pump assembly (09821-00004) and pressurize
14. Holding pinion nut with the wrench installed, loosen the pinion nut by the gearcase to 14.22 psi (1.0 kg/cm). With the gearcase pressurized, spray
turning the driveshaft. soapy water onto the seals and check for escaping air bubbles.
15. Remove the tools. Remove the pinion nut and pinion gear. • 0-rings and oil seals for cracks, tears and wear
16. Remove the forward gear, thrust washer and shim(s). • Propeller for nicks, bent blades or other damage and wear
17. Remove the bolts holding the driveshaft bearing housing. • Cooling circuit for clogging or other obstructions
18. Carefully remove the driveshaft bearing housing and the shift rod. • Gearcase for rusting, pitting and distortion.
19. Remove the driveshaft thrust washers, protector and the driveshaft
spring collar from the gearcase bore. ASSEMBLY
20. Slide all components except the clutch dog from the propeller shaft.
21. Disassemble the propeller shaft clutch assembly. 1. Clean and inspect all parts.
2. Inspect the pinion gear adjustment of the driveshaft.
3. Remove and discard the propeller shaft/bearing housing oil seal and 0-
ring.
4. Inspect the propeller shaft/bearing housing bearings. Replace if neces-
sary.
5. Install new propeller shaft/bearing housing oil seal and a new housing
0-ring. Coat seal lips and 0-ring with waterproof marine grease.
6. Assemble the propeller shaft components according to the illustrations,
noting the following.
7. Lubricate all parts with Suzuki Outboard Motor Gear Oil.
8. Align the groove in the driveshaft spring protector with the tongue in the
gearcase and install driveshaft spring protector into the gearcase.
9. Install the protector and the driveshaft thrust washers.
10. Carefully install the driveshaft and the driveshaft bearing housing.
11. Install the bolts holding the driveshaft bearing housing. Tighten the
bolts securely.
12. Install the forward gear, thrust washer and shim(s).
forward gear.
14. Coat the pinion nut threads with thread locking compound.
15. Position nut over driveshaft threads in prop shaft bore. Start nut by
05008P2D hand.
16. Attach driveshaft holder tool (09921-29410) to the top of the driveshaft.
Step 17 Rotate driveshaft and tighten the pinion gear nut to specification.

8-48 LOWER UNIT
CD Shift shaft
® Reverse sleeve
@ Upper return notch ball
@Spring
@Plunger
@ Lower return notch ball
@ Neutral notch ball

@Spring
@ Forward sleeve
<J) Vertical slider
® Shifter yoke
@ Horizontal slider
@ Connecting pin
-'-----®
t1"1---©
t!l..1---@
-a+--@
~--@
®
=1-1-----@
_l_--·®
-W---<J)
R R-N N N-F F
05008G3F
Fi . 44 Ex loded view of the V4 and V6 lower unit assembl

LOWER UNIT 8-49
CD Drivesh f
@ Collar a t assembly
--------==:::::::-
®Protector
© Thrust wash
@ Thrust wash er
®Spring er
<J) Bearing
@Shim
® 0-ring
(j]I Driveshaft beanng
. housing
1J' Oil seal

:fP
P~nion gear
@Pinion nut
@'I
® @-@
05008G6F
Fig. 45 ExPIoded view of th e dnveshaft

. assembly
@
@ I ~. ~orward gear shim
3 Forward gear bearing
· orward gear
4. Stopper
5· Horizontal slider
6. Connector pin
7. Propeller shaft
8. Spring assy.
9. Clutch dog shifter
10. Stopper
.~~
11. Pin
; ~- Thrust washer
Reverse gear
" 1
14. Shim
;~ ~~~~~;~gr shaft housing
17 P ear bearing
18 o;~~:~ller shaft bearing
~>;,..;
19. Spacer
20. 0-ring
21 Key
22· Tab washer
23. Stopper
@i
~~~
'
<-~4.
~ (§;
'Y® ®
<J)
Fig.
__ Expl 0 d
46 __::__: :e:d~v~ie~w~oolftt~h -
e propeller
--- shaft assembly ---------------- 05008G7F
-

8-50 LOWER UNIT
... use a thinner pinion shim "9" than the standard shim so that a clear-
ance "B" exists.
2. Position the shimming gauge (09951-08720) "A" horizontally in a vice.
3. Insert the driveshaft through the shimming gauge "A" opening and
assemble the pinion gear "16" and nut "17'' and driveshaft bearing housing bolt
"10" to the shimming gauge "A". Adjust the support "C" so the driveshaft is
parallel to the tool "A''.
4. Hold the driveshaft against the bearing housing "10" while measuring the
clearance "B" between the gauge and the flat edge of the pinion gear "16" with a
feeler gauge. Measured clearance plus shim "9" is the total shim thickness to be
used in the gear housing reassembly in order to achieve the correct pinion gear
position.
,..Always use ONE shim.
05008P79
5. Remove the driveshaft from the tool, and change the shim if needed, and
Fig. 47 Check the magnet for sign of debris in the gear oil reinstall into the gearcase.
Forward and Reverse Gear Adjustment

17. Prior to installing the propeller shaft/bearing housing assembly into the
gearcase, rotate the propeller shaft so that the flat surface on the end of the hori- FORWARD
zontal slider is facing UP.
18. Install the propeller shaft/bearing housing into the gearcase. Use shaft • See Figure 49
housing installer tool (09922-59410) and installer handle (09922-59420).
19. Make sure the groove in the gearcase and the bearing housing are 1. Set the gear holder (09951-98720) onto the propeller shaft.
aligned. Install the key into the groove in the gearcase and bearing housing. 2. Turning the bolt clockwise, tighten securely.
20. Install the lockwasher and align the groove in the lockwasher with the 3. Set the dial gauge (09900-20606) and backlash indicator tool
tongue in the gearcase. (09952-08710) on the driveshaft.
21. Check forward and reverse gear backlash. 4. Read the backlash on the gauge by lightly moving the driveshaft back and
22. Apply a small amount of thread locking compound, to the threads of the forth slightly by hand.
stopper. 5. If the amount of backlash is larger than specified: 0.020-0.026 in.
23. Position the stopper with the "OFF" mark facing toward the outside and (0.5-0.65 mm), increase the thickness of the forward gear back-up shim. If
install the stopper. smaller, decrease the thickness.
24. Use the same special tool used to remove the stopper and tighten the
stopper to specification. If necessary, slightly tighten the stopper until it is
aligned with the lockwasher.
25. Bend down the lockwasher tab to lock the stopper in place.
26. Apply waterproof marine grease to the 0-ring seal on the shift unit.
Make sure the shift rod is in NEUTRAL.
27. Make sure the locating dowel is in place in the gearcase and install the
shift unit and bolts. Tighten the bolts securely.
29. Install the gearcase. Fill with recommended type and quantity of lubri-
cant.
30. Check gearcase lubricant level after engine has been run. Change the
SHIMMING PROCEDURE 05008G9F

Fig. 49 Set the dial gauge (09900-20606) and backlash indicator
Pinion Gear Adjustment tool (09952-08710) on the driveshafl
• See Figure 48
1. Assemble the bearing "7" and driveshaft bearing housing "9" onto the REVERSE
driveshaft. 1. Turn the bolt counterclockwise, tighten securely.
2. Read the backlash on the gauge by moving the driveshaft slightly back
and forth.
®@ 3. If the amount of backlash is larger than specified: 0.028-0.033 in.
(0.7-0.85 mm), increase the thickness of the reverse gear back-up shim. If
smaller, decrease the thickness of the shim.
,..Always use ONE shim.
Reverse Gear Thrust
1. Install the dial indicator onto the propeller shaft.
2. Push the propeller shaft inwards and hold this position. Preload the
gauge approximately 2 mm and zero the gauge.
3. Slowly pull out the propeller shaft and read the maximum play:
0.004-0.008 in. (0.10-0.20 mm) on the gauge.
® 05008G8F
4. If the amount of thrust play is larger than specified, increase the thick-
Fig. 48 Position the shimming gauge (09951-08720) "A" horizon- ness of the reverse gear thrust washer. If smaller, decrease the thickness of the
tally in a vice thrust washer.

LOWER UNIT 8-51
JET DRIVE
Description and Operation
The jet drive unit is designed to permit boating in areas prohibited to a boat
equipped with a conventional propeller drive system. The housing of the jet
drive barely extends below the hull of the boat allowing passage in ankle deep
water, white water rapids and over sand bars or in shoal water which would foul
a propeller drive.
The jet drive provides reliable propulsion with a minimum of moving parts.
Simply stated, water is drawn into the unit through an intake grille by an
impeller driven by a driveshaft off the crankshaft of the powerhead. The water is
immediately expelled under pressure through an outlet nozzle directed away
from the stern of the boat
As the speed of the boat increases and reaches planing speed, the jet drive
discharges water freely into the air and only the intake grille makes contact with
the water.
The jet drive is provided with a gate arrangement and linkage to permit the
boat to be operated in reverse. When the gate is moved downward over the
exhaust nozzle, the pressure stream is reversed by the gate and the boat moves
sternward.
Conventional controls are used for powerhead speed, movement of the boat,
shifting and power trim and tilt
Model Identification and Serial Numbers

• See Figure 50
A model letter identification is stamped on the rear, port side of the jet drive
housing. A serial number for the unit is stamped on the starboard side of the jet
drive housing, as indicated in the accompanying illustration.
The jet drives that are used with the outboard units covered in this manual
are: PU40, PU55, PU85 and PU140. These letters are embossed on the port
side of the jet drive housing.
These numbers reflect the specific size of engine which they are attached
to.
For the most part, jet drive units are identical in design, function and opera-
tion. Differences lie in size and securing hardware.
HODEL
LETTER
04700G46
Fig. 50 The model letter designation and the serial numbers are
embossed on the jet drive housing
Jet Drive Assembly


1. Remove the two bolts and retainer securing the shift cable to the shift
cable support bracket
2. Remove the locknut, bolt and washer securing the shift cable to the shift
arm. Try not to disturb the length of the cable. 04700P6P
3. Remove the six bolts securing the intake grille to the jet casing.
4. Ease the intake grille from the jet drive housing. Step 3

8-52 LOWER UNIT
5. Pry the tab or tabs of the tabbed washer away from the nut to allow the locations-behind the impeller and on top of the impeller, under the nut and
nut to be removed. tabbed washer.
6. Loosen and then remove the nut. 10. One external bolt and four internal bolts are used to secure the jet drive
7. Remove the tabbed washer and spacers. Make a careful count of the to the intermediate housing. The external bolt is located at the aft end of the
spacers behind the washer. If the unit is relatively new, there could be as many anti-cavitation plate.
as eight spacers stacked together. If less than eight spacers are removed from 11. The four internal bolts are located inside the jet drive housing,
behind the washer, the others will be found behind the jet impeller, which is as indicated in the accompanying illustration. Remove the five attaching
removed in the following step. A total of eight spacers will be found. bolts.
8. Remove the jet impeller from the shaft. If the impeller is frozen to the 12. Lower the jet drive from the intermediate housing. Remove the locating
shaft, obtain a block of wood and a hammer. Tap the impeller in a clockwise pin from the forward starboard side (or center forward, depending on the model
direction to release the shear key. being serviced) of the upper jet housing.
9. Slide the nylon sleeve and shear key free of the driveshaft and any spac- 13. Remove the locating pin from the aft end of the housing. This pin and
ers found behind the impeller. Make a note of the number of spacers at both the one removed in the previous step should be of identical size.
04700P6S
Step 6
04700P6W 04700P6Z

LOWER UNIT 8-53
14. Remove the four bolts and washers from the water pump housing. To install:
Pull the water pump housing, the inner cartridge and the water pump 16. Install the other small locating pin into the forward starboard side (or
impeller, up and free of the driveshaft. Next, remove the outer gasket, the steel center forward end, depending on the model being serviced).
plate and the inner gasket. 17. Raise the jet drive unit up and align it with the intermediate housing,
15. Remove the two small locating pins and lift the aluminum spacer up and with the small pins indexed into matching holes in the adapter plate. Install the
free of the drive shaft. four internal bolts.
Remove the driveshaft and bearing assembly from the housing. 18. Install the one external bolt at the aft end of the anti-cavitation plate.
Remove the large thick adaptor plate from the intermediate housing. This Tighten all bolts to a torque value of 11 ft. lbs. (15Nm).
plate is secured with seven bolts and lock washers. Lower the adaptor plate 19. Place the required number of spacers up against the bearing housing.
from the intermediate housing and remove the two small locating pins, one on Slide the nylon sleeve over the driveshaft and insert the shear key into the slot of
the forward port side and another from the last aft hole in the adaptor plate. Both the nylon sleeve with the key resting against the flattened portion of the driveshaft.
pins are identical in size.
WATER PUHP
HOUSING
INNER
~'../,.... __ CARTRIDGE
IMPELLER
OUTER
~GASKET
STEEL...___.~
Pl.ATE ~
INNER
GASKET
LOCATING
PIN .........._e
Step 14
~ 04700G47
l~~~At.
"(~f't.~s-j··
04700P7Q 04700P?R 04/00P?S

8-54 LOWER UNIT
04700P7T
Step 20
04700P7W 04700P7X 04700P7Y
20. Slide the jet impeller up onto the driveshaft, with the groove in the ADJUSTMENT
impeller collar indexing over the shear key.
21. Place the remaining spacers over the driveshaft.
22. Tighten the nut to a torque value of 17 ft. lbs. (23Nm). If neither of the Cable Alignment And Free Play
two tabs on the tabbed washer aligns with the sides of the nut, remove the nut • See Figs. 51 and 52
and washer. Invert the tabbed washer. Turning the washer over will change the
tabs by approximately 15°. Install and tighten the nut to the required torque 1. Move the shift lever downward into the forward position. The leaf spring
value. The tabbed washer is designed to align with the nut in one of the two should snap over on top of the lever to lock it in position.
positions described. 2. Remove the locknut, washer and bolt from the threaded end of the shift
23. Bend the tabs up against the nut to prevent the nut from backing off and cable. Push the reverse gate firmly against the rubber pad on the underside of
becoming loose. the jet drive housing.
24. Install the intake grille onto the jet drive housing with the slots facing Check to be sure the link between the reverse gate and the shift arm is
aft. Install and tighten the six securing bolts. Tighten% in. bolts to a torque hooked into the LOWER hole on the gate.
value of 5 ft. lbs. (7Nm). Tighten o/is in. bolts to 11 ft. lbs. (15Nm). Hold the shift arm up until the link rod and shift arm axis form an imaginary
25. Slide the bolt through the end of the shift cable, washer and into the straight line, as indicated in the accompanying illustration. Adjust the length of
shift arm. Install the locknut onto the bolt and tighten the bolt securely. the shift cable by rotating the threaded end, until the cable can be installed back
26. Install the shift cable against the shift cable support bracket and secure onto the shift arm without disturbing the imaginary line. Pass the nut through
it in place with the two bolts. the cable end, washer and shift arm. Install and tighten the locknut.
Neutral Stop Adjustment

See Figures 53, 54, and 55
In the forward position, the reverse gate is neatly tucked underneath and
clear of the exhaust jet stream.
In the reverse position, the gate swings up and blocks the jet stream deflecting
the water in a forward direction under the jet housing to move the boat sternward.
In the neutral position, the gate assumes a happy medium-a balance
between forward and reverse when the powerhead is operating at IDLE speed.
Actually, the gate is deflecting some water to prevent the boat from moving for-
ward, but not enough volume to move the boat sternward.
**WARNING
04700P7Z
The gate must be properly adjusted for safety of boat and passen-
Step 26 gers. Improper adjustment could cause the gate to swing up to the

LOWER UNIT 8-55
04700P8A 04700P8C
Fig. 51 Move the shift lever downward into Fig. 53 Loosen, but do not remove the
the forward position. The leaf spring Fig. 52 Remove the locknut, washer and locknut on the neutral stop lever. Check to
should snap over on top of the lever to boll from the threaded end of the shift be sure the lever will slide up and down
lock it in position cable along the slot in the shift lever bracket
2. Start the powerhead and allow it to operate only at IDLE speed. With the
neutral stop lever in the down position, move the shift lever until the jet stream
forces on the gate are balanced. Balanced means the water discharged is
divided in both directions and the boat moves neither forward nor sternward.
The gate is then in the neutral position with the powerhead at idle speed.
3. Move the neutral stop lever up against the shift lever until the stop lever
barely makes contact with the shift lever. Tighten the locknut to maintain this
new adjusted position. Shut down the powerhead.
~The reverse gate may not swing to the full up position in reverse gear
after the previous steps have been performed. Do not be concerned.
This condition is acceptable, because water pressure in reverse will
close the gate fully under normal operation.
04700P8D
Fig. 54 Start the powerhead and allow it to operate only at IDLE

speed. With the neutral stop lever in the down position, move the
shift lever until the jet stream forces on the gate are balanced. Bal-
anced means the water discharged is divided in both directions and
the boat moves neither forward nor sternward. The gate is then in
the neutral position with the powerhead at idle speed
reverse position while the boat is moving forward causing serious

injury to boat or passengers.
1. Loosen, but do not remove the locknut on the neutral stop lever. Check to
be sure the lever will slide up and down along the slot in the shift lever bracket.
~The following procedure must be performed with the boat and jet
drive in a body of water. Only with the boat in the water can a proper jet
stream be applied against the gate for adjustment purposes.
**CAUTION 04700P8E
Water must circulate through the lower unit to the powerhead any- Fig. 55 Move the neutral stop lever up against the shift lever until
time the powerhead is operating to prevent damage to the water the stop lever barely makes contact with the shift lever. Tighten the
pump in the lower unit. Just five seconds without water will damage locknut to maintain this new adjusted position. Shut down the pow-
the water pump impeller. erhead

8-56 LOWER UNIT
Trim Adjustment 3. Remove the four bolts and washers from the water pump housing.
Pull the water pump housing, the inner cartridge and the water pump impeller,
t See Figure 56 up and free of the driveshaft. Remove the Woodruff key from its recess in the
1. During operation, if the boat tends to pull to port or starboard, the flow driveshaft. Next, remove the outer gasket, the steel plate and the inner gasket.
fins may be adjusted to correct the condition. These fins are located at the top 4. Remove the two small locating pins and lift the aluminum spacer up and
and bottom of the exhaust tube. free of the driveshaft.
2. If the boat tends to pull to starboard, bend the trailing edge of each fin 5. Remove the driveshaft and bearing assembly from the housing.
approximately 1/is in. (1.5mm) toward the starboard side of the jet drive. Natu- Remove the large thick adapter plate from the intermediate housing. This
rally, if the boat tends to pull to port, bend the fins toward the port side. plate is secured with seven bolts and lock-washers. Lower the adapter plate
from the intermediate housing and remove the two small locating pins, one on
the forward port side and another from the last aft hole in the adapter plate. Both
pins are identical size.
CLEANING & INSPECTING

Wash al I parts, except the driveshaft assembly, in solvent and blow them dry
with compressed air. Rotate the bearing assembly on the driveshaft to inspect
the bearings for rough spots, binding and signs of corrosion or damage.
Saturate a shop towel with solvent and wipe both extensions of the driveshaft.
04700G51
Fig. 56 During operation, if the boat tends to pull lo port or star-
board, the flow fins may be adjusted to correct the condition
DISASSEMBLY
1. Remove the locating pin from the forward starboard side (or center for-
ward, depending on the model being serviced) of the upper jet housing.
~There will be a total of six localing pins to be removed in the follow-
ing steps. Make careful note of the size and location of each when they
04700P7D
are removed, as an assist during assembling.
Fig. 57 Take extra precautions to prevent solvent from entering the
2. Remove the locating pin from the aft end of the housing. This pin and the lubrication passages
one removed in the previous step should be of identical size.
DRIVESHAFT ~w:co:~FF r~
I /
0
§
NYLON , Q
SLE~V:~1
JET
KEY~
IMPELLER'-
e BEARING
~ ~
ASSEMBLY
~
~
@
~
SPACERS .,
TABBE;;---.......@ !A~~
0
~~
WASHE~:--:, i'
NUT~
l §!~
!IQ .,
g
04700G48
Fig. 58 Exploded view of a typical jet drive lower unit with major parts identifier!

LOWER UNIT 8-57
Bearing Assembly Burns on the jet impeller blades are caused by cavitation air bubbles explod-
ing with considerable force against the impeller blades. The edges of the blades
• See Figure 59 may develop small dime size areas resembling a porous sponge, as the alumi-
Lightly wipe the exterior of the bearing assembly with the same shop towel. Do num is actually eaten by the condition just described.
not allow solvent to enter the three lubricant passages of the bearing assembly. Excessive rounding of the jet impeller edges will reduce efficiency and per-
The best way to clean these passages is not with solvent-because any solvent formance. Therefore, the impeller should be inspected at regular intervals.
remaining in the assembly after installation will continue to dissolve good useful If rounding is detected, the impeller should be placed on a work bench and
lubricant and leave bearings and seals dry. This condition will cause bearings to the edges restored to as sharp a condition as possible, using a file. Draw the
fail through friction and seals to dry up and shrink-losing their sealing qualities. file in only one direction. A back-and-forth motion will not produce a smooth
The only way to clean and lubricate the bearing assembly is after installation edge. Take care not to nick the smooth surface of the jet impeller. Excessive
to the jet drive-via the exterior lubrication fitting. nicking or pitting will create water turbulence and slow the flow of water
If the old lubricant emerging from the hose coupling is a dark, dirty, gray through the pump.
color, the seals have already broken down and water is attacking the bearings. If Inspect the shear key. A slightly distorted key may be reused although some
such is the case, it is recommended the entire driveshaft bearing assembly be difficulty may be encountered in assembling the jet drive. A cracked shear key
taken to the dealer for service of the bearings and seals. should be discarded and replaced with a new key.
Dismantling Bearing Assembly Water Pump
A complicated procedure must be followed to dismantle the bearing assem- • See Figure 61
bly including torching off the bearing housing. Naturally, excessive heat might Clean all water pump parts with solvent and then blow them dry with com-
ruin the seals and bearings. Therefore, the best recommendation is to leave this pressed air. Inspect the water pump housing for cracks and distortion, possibly
part of the service work to the experts at your local Honda dealership. caused from overheating. Inspect the steel plate, the thick aluminum spacer and
the water pump cartridge for grooves and/or rough spots. If possible always
Driveshaft and Associated Parts install a new water pump impeller while the jet drive is disassembled. A new
Inspect the threads and splines on the driveshaft for wear, rounded edges, water pump impeller will ensure extended satisfactory service and give peace of
corrosion and damage. mind to the owner. If the old water pump impeller must be returned to service,
Carefully check the driveshaft to verify the shaft is straight and true without never install it in reverse of the original direction of rotation. Installation in
any sign of damage. reverse will cause premature impeller failure.
Inspect the jet drive housing for nicks, dents, corrosion, or other signs of If installation of a new water pump impeller is not possible, check the sealing
damage. Nicks may be removed with No. 120 and No. 180 emery cloth. surfaces and be satisfied they are in good condition. Check the upper, lower and
ends of the impeller vanes for grooves, cracking and wear. Check to be sure the
Reverse Gate indexing notch of the impeller hub is intact and will not allow the impeller to slip.
Inspect the gate and its pivot points. Check the swinging action to be sure it ASSEMBLING
moves freely the entire distance of travel without binding.
Inspect the slats of the water intake grille for straightness. Straighten any bent • See Figure 62
slats, if possible. Use the utmost care when prying on any slat, as they tend to
break if excessive force is applied. Replace the intake grille if a slat is lost, bro- Identify the two small locating pins used to index the large thick adapter plate
ken, or bent and cannot be repaired. The slats are spaced evenly and the distance to the intermediate housing. Insert one pin into the last hole aft on the topside of
between them is critical, to prevent large objects from passing through and the plate. Insert the other pin into the hole forward toward the port side, as shown.
becoming lodged between the jet impeller and the inside wall of the housing. Lift the plate into place against the intermediate housing with the locating
pins indexing with the holes in the intermediate housing. Secure the plate with
Jet Impeller the five (or seven) bolts.
~on the five bolt model, one of the five bolts is shorter than the other
• See Figure 60
lour. Install the short boll in the most alt location.
The jet impeller is a precisely machined and dynamically balanced aluminum spi-
ral. Observe the drilled recesses at exact locations to achieve this delicate balancing. Tighten the long bolts to a torque value of 22 ft. lbs. (30Nm). Tighten the
Some of these drilled recesses are clearly shown in the accompanying illustration. short bolt to a torque value of 11 ft. lbs. (15Nm).
Excessive vibration of the jet drive may be attributed to an out-of-balance 1. Place the driveshaft bearing assembly into the jet drive housing. Rotate the
condition caused by the jet impeller being struck excessively by rocks, gravel or bearing assembly until all bolt holes align. There is only one correct position.
cavitation burn. ~11 installing a new jet impeller, place all eight spacers at the lower or
The term cavitation burn is a common expression used throughout the world nut end of the impeller and skip the following step.
among people working with pumps, impeller blades and forceful water movement.
04700P7F
04700P7E Fig. 60 The slats of the grille must be
Fig. 59 Cleaning and lubricating the bear- carefully inspected and any bent slats Fig. 61 The edges of the jet impeller
ing assembly is best accomplished by straightened for maximum performance of should be kept as sharp as possible for
completely replacing the old lubricant the jet drive maximum jet drive efficiency

8-58 LOWER UNIT
04/00PIL 04700G49
04700P7K Fig. 63 The clearance between the outer Fig. 64 Spacers are used depending on
Fig. 62 Place the driveshaft bearing assem- edge of the jet drive impeller and the water the model being serviced. When new, all
bly into the jet drive housing. Rotate the intake housing cone wall should be main- spacers are located at the tapered (or nut)
bearing assembly until all bolt holes align tained at approximately %2 in. (0.8mm) end of the impeller
Shimming Jet Impeller Tighten the four bolts to a torque value of 11 ft. lbs. (15Nm).
3. Install one of the small locating pins into the aft end of the jet drive
housing.
1. The clearance between the outer edge of the jet drive impeller and
the water intake housing cone wall should be maintained at approximately 1/32
in. (0.8mm). This distance can be visually checked by shining a flashlight up
through the intake grille and estimating the distance between the impeller and
the casing cone, as indicated in the accompanying illustrations. It is not
humanly possible to accurately measure this clearance, but by observing
closely and estimating the clearance, the results should be fairly accurate.
After continued use, the clearance will increase. The spacers previously
removed are used to position the impeller along the driveshaft with a desired
clearance of %2 in. (0.8mm) between the jet impeller and the housing wall.
2. Spacers are used depending on the model being serviced. When new, all
spacers are located at the tapered (or nut) end of the impeller. As the clearance
increases, the spacers are transferred from the tapered (nut) end and placed at
the wide (intermediate housing) end of the jet impeller.
This procedure is best accomplished while the jet drive is removed from the
intermediate housing.
Secure the driveshaft with the attaching hardware. Installation of the shear key
and nylon sleeve is not vital to this procedure. Place the unit on a convenient
work bench. Shine a flashlight through the intake grille into the housing cone
and eyeball the clearance between the jet impeller and the cone wall, as indicated
in the accompanying line drawing. Move spacers one-at-a-time from the tapered
end to the wide end to obtain a satisfactory clearance. Dismantle the driveshaft
and note the exact count of spacers at both ends of the bearing assembly. This 04700P7M
count will be recalled later during assembly to properly install the jet impeller. Fig. 65 Place the aluminum spacer over the driveshafl with the two
holes for the indexing pins facing upward
Water Pump Assembling
1. Place the aluminum spacer over the driveshaft with the two holes for the
indexing pins facing upward. Fit the two locating pins into the holes of the space[
~The manufacturer recommends no sealant be used on either side of
the water pump gaskets.
2. Slide the inner water pump gasket (the gasket with two curved openings)
over the driveshaft. Position the gasket over the two locating pins. Slide the
steel plate down over the driveshaft with the tangs on the plate facing downward
and with the holes in the plate indexed over the two locating pins.
Check to be sure the tangs on the plate fit into the two curved openings of the
gasket beneath the plate. Now, slide the outer gasket (the gasket with the large
center hole) over the driveshaft. Position the gasket over the two locating pins.
Fit the Woodruff key into the driveshaft. Just a dab of grease on the key will
help to hold the key in place. Slide the water pump impeller over the driveshaft
with the rubber membrane on the top side and the keyway in the impeller
indexed over the Woodruff key. Take care not to damage the membrane. Coat the
impeller blades with Hondaline Grease or equivalent water resistant lubricant.
Install the insert cartridge, the inner plate and finally the water pump hous-
ing over the driveshaft. Rotate the insert cartridge counterclockwise over the
04700P7N
impeller to tuck in the impeller vanes. Seat all parts over the two locating pins.
Fig. 66 Install one of the small localing pins into the all end of the
~on some models, two different length bolts are used at this location. jet drive housing

MANUAL TILT 9-2
SERVICING 9-2
GAS ASSISTED TILT 9-2
GAS ASSIST DAMPER 9-2
TESTING 9-2
POWER TILT 9-3
TROUBLESHOOTING THE POWER TILT
SYSTEM 9-4
TILT MOTOR AND PUMP 9-4
CHECKING FLUID LEVEL 9-4
BLEEDING THE SYSTEM 9-4
TESTING 9-5
OVERHAUL 9-5
TILT CYLINDER 9-5
OVERHAUL 9-5
TILT SWITCH 9-6
POWER TRIM!flLT 9-6
TROUBLESHOOTING THE POWER
TRIM/TILT SYSTEM 9-7
TRIM/TILT PUMP 9-8
TESTING 9-8
TRIM/TILT MOTOR 9-9
TESTING 9-9
DISASSEMBLY 9-11
ASSEMBLY 9-13
TRIM/TILT CYLINDER 9-14
TESTING 9-14
DISASSEMBLY 9-15
ASSEMBLY 9-15
TRIM/TILT SWITCH 9-15 -
TRIM/TILT RELAY 9-15
TESTING 9-15

9-2 TRIM AND TILT
MANUAL TILT

0
All outboard installations are equipped with some means of raising or lower-
ing (pivoting) the outboard for efficient operation under various load, boat
design, water conditions, and for trailering to and from the water. By pivoting
,,
II
05009G02
Fig. 2 The manual lilt mechanism is used to lilt the outboard in
relation to the stern bracket
the outboard, the correct trim angle can be achieved to ensure maximum perfor-
mance and fuel economy as well as a more comfortable ride for the crew and
passengers.
The manual tilt mechanism is used to tilt the outboard in relation to the stern
bracket. To adjust the outboard angle, the tilt lever is moved to the tilt position.
This disengages the release rod and causes the reverse lock to disengage from
1. Clamp bracket (RH) 10. Bushing the adjusting pin. The unit can be set at varying angles by raising or lowering
2. Clamp bracket (LH) 11. Clamp bracket plate the outboard. To release the tilt mechanism, return the tilt lever to the normal
3. Clamp handle 12. Screw position, then raise and lower the extension case slightly.
4. Clamp screw 13. Bolt
5. Clamp handle pin 14. Swivel bracket bushing •The lilt lever should be kept in the normal position whenever the out·
6. Clamp plate 15. Swivel bracket washer board is operating.
7. Tilt stopper knob 16. Swivel bracket nut
B. Tilt stopper knob pin 17. Tilt lock pin SERVICING
9. Tilt stopper pin 18. Tilt lock pin spring
05009G01
Service procedures for the manual tilt system are confined to general lubrica-
Fig. 1 Typical manual lilt bracket assembly used on low horsepower
tion and inspection. If individual components should wear or break, replacement
outboards of the defective components is necessary.
GAS ASSISTED TILT
Description and Operation **CAUTION

The gas assisted tilt system consists of a single shock absorber. The shock To prevent outboard damage or serious personal injury, it is a good
absorber contains a high pressure gas chamber located in the upper portion of idea to provide some additional means of keeping the outboard
the cylinder bore above the piston assembly. The piston contains a down relief tilted in the event the tilt lock levers fail.
valve and an absorber relief valve. Below the piston assembly, the lower cylin-
der bore contains an oil chamber. This lower chamber is connected to the upper 4. Remove the snapring and slide the upper cylinder pin from the mount-
chamber above the piston by internal passages. ing frame.
When the outboard is tilted upward, pressurized gas, sealed in the cylinder, 5. Pivot the damper away from the mounting frame.
expands to extend the piston rod in the cylinder and assist the tilting action. 6. Remove the securing bolt from the lower damper pin and then slide the
pin from its bore.
Gas Assist Damper 7. Remove the damper assembly from the stern bracket.
•Store the gas assisted damper assembly vertically with the upper
TESTING cylinder bushing upward.
To install:
Testing of the gas assisted damper is a fairly simple operation. Since the 8. Position the damper assembly on the stern bracket.
operation of the cylinder is solely reliant on the action of the gas pressure on 9. Lubricate and install the lower damper pin into its bore. Install the
the piston, if the damper fails to provide the appropriate amount of lifting assis- securing bolt and tighten it securely.
tance and the steering tube adjustment is not set too tight, then it can be
•The groove in the lower damper pin must align with the securing bolt
assumed that the damper is faulty.
hole.
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 10. Pivot the damper toward the stern bracket.
11. Install the upper cylinder pin on the stern bracket and install the
1. Place the tilt lever in the tilt position. snapring to secure it.
2. Position and support the outboard in its fully tilted position 12. Remove the supports from the outboard.
3. Lower the manual tilt lock levers to keep the outboard tilted during this 13. Raise the manual tilt lock levers and test the gas assisted tilt assembly
procedure. for proper operation.

TRIM AND TILT 9-3
POWER TILT
main check valve while moving the spool valve to open the down pressure
Description and Operation main check valve. Oil at pump pressure then flows through the up pressure
• See Figure 3 main check valve and outlet tube to the down side of the tilt cylinder. Oil pres-
sure raises the piston in the cylinder forcing oil from the up side of the cylin-
,..The power lilt system is used primarily on the DT35 and DT40 models. der to return to the valve body through the outlet tube, the down pressure
main check valve and the spool valve chamber. Because of the difference in
The power tilt system consists of a housing with an electric motor, gear dri- volume between the up and down side of the cylinder, the down throttling
ven hydraulic pump, hydraulic reservoir and a single tilt cylinder. The cylinder check valve opens to add oil from the reservoir to allow a complete upward
performs a double function as a tilt cylinder and also as a shock absorber, stroke. When the tilt cylinder reaches full stroke and the up tilt operation is
should the lower unit strike an underwater object while the boat is underway. continued, oil flow from the pump will return to the reservoir through the up
blow valve.
**WARNING When the down portion of the tilt switch is depressed, the tilt motor works in
The power tilt system is not designed for use as a power trim sys- a counterclockwise direction. Pump hydraulic pressure then opens the down
tem. Damage to the system could result if misused. pressure main check valve while moving the spool valve to open the down pres-
sure main check valve. Oil at pump pressure then flows through the down pres-
The necessary valves, check valves, relief valves, and hydraulic passageways sure main check valve and outlet tube to the up side of the tilt cylinder. Oil
are incorporated internally and externally for efficient operation. A manual pressure lowers the piston in the cylinder forcing oil from the down side of the
release valve is provided to permit the outboard unit to be raised or lowered cylinder to return to the valve body through the inlet tube, the up pressure main
should the battery fail to provide the necessary current to the electric motor or if check valve and the spool valve chamber. When the tilt cylinder reaches full
a malfunction should occur in the hydraulic system. down position and down tilt operation is continued, oil flow from the pump will
The gear driven pump operates in much the same manner as an oil circula- return to the reservoir through the down throttling valve.
tion pump installed on motor vehicles. The gears rotate in either direction, In the event the outboard lower unit should strike an underwater object while
depending on the desired cylinder movement. One side of the pump is consid- the boat is underway, a sudden high impact pressure is created in the up side of
ered the suction side, and the other the pressure side, when the gears rotate in a the tilt cylinder. This pressure opens the shock absorber valve in the tilt cylinder
given direction. These sides are reversed, the suction side becomes the pres- piston allowing oil to transfer to the down side of the piston and opens the
sure side and the pressure side becomes the suction side when gear movement down check valve allowing oil to return to the reservoir. The opening of these
is changed to the opposite direction. valves enable the ti It rod to extend.
A manual relief valve allows easy manual tilt of the outboard should electric
,..As a convenience, on some models an auxiliary tilt switch is installed power be lost. The valve opens when the screw is turned counterclockwise,
on the exterior of the engine case. allowing fluid to flow through the manual valve. When the relief valve screw is
When the up portion of the tilt switch is depressed, the tilt motor works in turn fully clockwise, the manual valve closed and the outboard locked in posi-
a clockwise direction. Pump hydraulic pressure then opens the up pressure tion.
Motor
Tilt cylinder
Oil level Reservoir
Down throttle
valve
Up blow
valve Down check
valve
Dowm pressure
main check
valve
Inlet tube
Outlet tube
05009G03
Fig. 3 Power lilt system schematic

9-4 TRIM AND TILT
Troubleshooting the Power Tilt System
EARLY LATE
Any time a problem develops in the power tilt system the first step is to
determine whether it is electrical or hydraulic in nature. Alter the determination FULL UP TILT
Ll :~~~
is made, then the appropriate steps can be taken to remedy the problem.
a
The first step in troubleshooting is to make sure all the connectors are prop-
~1
erly plugged in and that all the terminals and wires are free of corrosion. The l
SERVOlR
simple act of disconnecting and connecting a terminal may sometimes loosen
IL
corrosion that preventing a proper electrical connection. Inspect each terminal
carefully and coat each with dielectric grease to prevent corrosion.
The next step is to make sure the battery is fully charged and in good condi- FULL DOWN TRIM
tion. While checking the battery, perform the same maintenance on the battery
cables as you did on the electrical terminals. Disconnect the cables (negative
side first), clean and coat them and then reinstall them. I! the battery is past its
useful life, replace it. I! it only requires a charge, charge it.
Check the power tilt !use (as appropriate). Many systems will have a !use to
prevent large current draws from damaging the system. I! this !use is blown, the
system will cease to !unction. This is a good indicator that you may have prob-
lems elsewhere in the electric system. Fuses don't blow without cause. 05009G05
Alter inspecting the electrical side of the system, check the hydraulic fluid
level and top it all as necessary. Remember to position the motor properly (lull Fig. 5 Insure the powerhead is in the proper position prior to check-
tilt up or down) to get an accurate measurement of fluid level. A slight decrease ing the hydraulic fluid
in the level of hydraulic fluid may cause the system to act sporadically.
Finally, make sure the manual release valve is in the proper position. A
slightly open manual release valve may prevent the system from working prop- BLEEDING THE SYSTEM
erly and mimic other more serious problems.
Just remember to check the simple things first. I! these simple tests do not
diagnose the cause of the problem, then it is time to investigate more deeply. • See Figure 6
Perform the hydraulic pressure tests in this section to determine if the pump is ,..The hydraulic bleeding sequence should be performed whenever the
making adequate pressure. Inspect the entire power tilt electrical harness with a lilt assembly has been removed for service.
multimeter, checking !or excessive resistance and proper voltage.
1. Place the outboard in the fully down position.
2. Remove the filler plug and, as necessary, !ill the reservoir to the bottom
Tilt Motor and Pump of the filler plug hole with automatic transmission fluid.
3. Wipe the area around the oil filler plug to remove any dirt that may cont-
CHECKING FLUID LEVEL aminate the power tilt unit.
4. Remove the oil filler plug and install an oil tiller tank adapter (55181-
95200) onto the reservoir. This adapter attaches to an external reservoir to keep
the hydraulic unit filled with fluid during the bleeding process.
,..On late model lilt units (from serial # 613245), the engine must be in
,..If an oil filler tank adapter is not available, you can bleed the system
the fully up lilt position prior to checking fluid level. On early model
by keeping the reservoir constantly fill alter each lime the outboard is
units (up to serial # 613244), the outboard must be in the full till down
raised and lowered.
position. If you are unsure as to which model you own, refer to your
owners manual for specific instructions. 5. Raise the motor up to the lull tilt position by operating the tilt switch and
support the motor with the tilt lock arm.
1. Place the outboard in the correct position.
6. Turn the manual release valve two lull turns counterclockwise. Do not
2. Remove the oil plug on the side of the pump and visually inspect the over rotate the manual release valve.
fluid level. The hydraulic fluid level should be at the lower edge of the oil plug
hole. I! the level is below specification, add Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATF)
until the level is as specified.
Oil filler tank
3. Alter adding hydraulic !luia, bleed the system to remove air from the
reservoir and fluid passages. Dexron II
OIL FILL PLUG OIL FILL PLUG

(1 pc.) l====I (2 pcs.)
~~~:!--
05009G04 05009G06
Fig. 4 Oil plug location and identification of early and late model Fig. 6 The best way to bleed the system is to install an oil filler tank
pumps and adapter to the pump

TRIM AND TILT 9-5
7. Release the tilt lock arm and allow the motor to fall to the full down 4. Tilt down pressure should be 1850-2420 psi (13000-17000 kPa).
position slowly. 5. If the pressure reading does not remain steady or does not reach speci-
8. Repeat the last three steps until no more air bubbles are seen in the line fied pressure, the pump and valve body may be faulty.
between the oil tank and the external reservoir.
~After the following test have been performed, check the tube connec-
9. Place the motor in the full tilt position (from serial# 613245) or the full
tions for leaks, check the oil level in the reservoir and perform a system
down position (up to serial# 613244) and remove the adapter.
bleeding.
10. Add fluid until the level reaches the bottom of the oil filler hole.
11. Tighten the filler plug to 2-3 ft. lbs. (3-5 Nm).
12. Raise and lower the motor 5-6 times using the power tilt switch. REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
TESTING The tilt motor and hydraulic pump assembly is mounted on the side of the
stern bracket.
1. Label and disconnect the motor electrical harness.
Electric Motor 2. Place a drain pan under the hydraulic lines to catch any spilled fluid.
1. Ensure the manual release valve is in the manual tilt position. 3. Label the hydraulic lines for proper positioning.
2. Disconnect the tilt motor wiring harness at the quick connect fittings. 4. Use a flare nut wrench to loosen the fittings. Disconnect the lines from
3. Using jumper cables, momentarily make contact between the discon- the hydraulic unit and cap them to prevent the entry of dirt.
nected leads and a fully charged battery. 5. Remove the bolts/nuts mounting the pump to the stern bracket, then lift
the purnp from the bracket.
~Make the contact only as long as necessary to hear the electric motor To install:
rotating. 6. Position the pump on the stern bracket and install the mounting
4. Reverse the leads on the battery posts and again listen for the sound of bolts/nuts.
the motor rotating. The motor should rotate with the leads making contact with 7. Connect the lines to the hydraulic unit and using a flare nut wrench,
the battery in either direction. tighten the fittings securely.
5. If the motor operates properly, the problem may be in the tilt switch or 8. Connect the motor electrical harness.
associated wiring. 9. Fill the fluid reservoir to capacity and bleed the air from the system.
6. If the motor does not operate as specified, it may be faulty. 10. Check the power tilt system for proper operation
Hydraulic Pump OVERHAUL

t See Figure 7 Overhaul procedures for the power tilt motor are identical to those for the
TILT DOWN PRESSURE TEST externally mounted power trim/tilt motor. Refer to the procedure for externally
mounted power trim/tilt motor for further information
1. Remove the outlet tube from ports "A" and "B" as shown in the illustra-
tion.
2. Connect a minimum 3000 psi test gauge between the ports. Tilt Cylinder
3. Operate the power tilt switch down until the tilt rod reaches the bottom of
its stroke. REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
4. Tilt down pressure should be 430-1000 psi (3000-7000 kPa).
5. If the pressure reading does not remain steady or does not reach speci-
fied pressure, the pump and valve body may be faulty. 1. Turn the manual valve screw to allow the outboard to be manually tilted.
Position and support the outboard in its fully tilted position.
TILT UP PRESSURE TEST 2. Label and disconnect the wiring harnesses and feed them through the
hole in the stern bracket.
1. Remove the outlet tube from ports "C" and "D" as shown in the illustra-
3. Remove the snapring and slide the upper cylinder pin from the mount-
tion.
ing frame.
2. Connect a minimum 3000 psi test gauge between the ports.
4. Remove the assembly from the stern bracket.
3. Operate the power tilt switch up until the tilt rod reaches the full stroke.
~store the assembly vertically with the upper cylinder bushing upward.
Never store the damper horizontally with the distance collar facing
upward.
To install:
5. Lubricate and install the cylinder bushings.
6. Position the assembly on the stern bracket.
7. Install the distance collar and through bolt on the stern bracket. Tighten
the through bolt to 25 ft. lbs. (35Nm).
8. Pivot the assembly toward the mounting frame.
9. After positioning the wave washers, lubricate and install the upper cylin-
der pin on the mounting frame. Install the E-ring to secure the pin in place.
10. Feed the assembly wiring harnesses through the hole in the stern
bracket and connect them.
11. Install the self locking nut and tighten to 25 ft. lbs. (35Nm). Install the
steering tube cap.
12. Install the outboard on the boat and test the power tilt assembly for
proper operation.
OVERHAUL
Overhaul procedures for the power tilt cylinder are identical to those for the
05009G07
power trim/tilt cylinders. Refer to the procedure for power trim/tilt cylinders for
Fig. 7 Outlet tube location and identification further information.

9-6 TRIM AND TILT
... overhaul procedures for the lilt cylinder is confined to removal of the holes are damaged, all hope of removing the end are lost. The only
end cap, removing the piston and replacing the 0-rings. A pin wrench or solution in such a case is to replace the cylinder as a unit.
spanner wrench is required to remove the end cap. Even with the tool,
removal of the end cap is not a simple task. The elements, especially if Tilt Switch
the unit has been used in a salt water atmosphere, will have their corro-
sive affect on the threads. Any attempt to break the end cap loose may Complete diagnosis, testing and servicing procedures for the tilt switch are
very likely elongate the two holes provided for the wrench. Once the located in the "Remote Control" section of this manual.
POWER TRIM/TILT

• See Figures 8, 9 and 1O
The power trim/tilt systems consist of a housing with an electric motor, gear
driven hydraulic pump, hydraulic reservoir and at least two trim/tilt cylinders.
The cylinders perform a double function as trim/tilt cylinders and also as a
shock absorbers, should the lower unit strike an underwater object while the
boat is underway.
The necessary valves, check valves, relief valves, and hydraulic passageways
are incorporated internally and externally for efficient operation. A manual
release valve is provided to permit the outboard unit to be raised or lowered
should the battery fail to provide the necessary current to the electric motor or if
a malfunction should occur in the hydraulic system.
The gear driven pump operates in much the same manner as an oil circula-
tion pump installed on motor vehicles. The gears rotate in either direction,
depending on the desired cylinder movement. One side of the pump is consid-
ered the suction side, and the other the pressure side, when the gears rotate in a
given direction. These sides are reversed, the suction side becomes the pres-
sure side and the pressure side becomes the suction side when gear movement 05009P05
is changed to the opposite direction.
Fig. 8 Typical external pump power trim/lilt system. The pump
Depending on the model, up to two relays may be used for the electric motor.
The relays are usually located at the bottom cowling pan, where they are fairly (right) is mounted to the stern bracket and the cylinders (left) are
well protected from moisture. positioned under the outboard
05009G14
Fig. 9 Exploded view of an external pump trim/lilt system

TRIM AND TILT 9-7
05009G15
Fig. 10 Exploded view of an integral pump trim/tilt system
~As a convenience, on some models an auxiliary trim/tilt switch is pressed and pressure builds in this area. Second, a vacuum is formed in the
installed on the exterior cowling. area between the tilt piston and the free piston.
This vacuum in the area between the two pistons sucks fluid from the upper
When the up portion of the trim/tilt switch is depressed, the up circuit, through
chamber. The fluid fills the area slowly and the shock of the lower unit striking
the relay, is closed and the electric motor rotates in a clockwise direction. Pressur-
the object is absorbed. After the object has been passed the weight of the out-
ized oil from the pump passes through a series of valves to the lower chamber of
board unit tends to retract the piston. The fluid between the tilt piston and the
the trim cylinders, the pistons are extended and the outboard unit is raised. The
free piston is compressed and forced through check valves to the reservoir until
fluid in the upper chamber of the pistons is routed back to the reservoir as the pis-
the free piston reaches its original neutral position.
ton 1s extended. When the desired position for trim is obtained, the switch on the
A manual relief valve, located on the stern bracket, allows easy manual tilt of
control handle is released and the outboard is held stationary.
the outboard should electric power be lost. The valve opens when the screw is
. If t.he trim. cylinder pistons should become fully extended, such as in a tilt up
turned counterclockwise, allowing fluid to flow through the manual passage.
s1tuat1on, fluid pressure in the lower chamber of the trim cylinders increases.
When the relief valve screw is turn fully clockwise, the manual passage is
This increase in pressure opens an up relief valve and the fluid is routed to the
closed and the outboard lock in position.
reservoir. The sound of the electllc motor and the pump will have a noticeable
change. A thermal valve is used to protect the trim/tilt motor and allow it to maintain
a designated trim angle. Oil in the upper chamber is pressurized when force is
When the down portion of the trim/tilt switch is depressed, the down circuit,
applied to the outboard from the rear while cruising. Oil is directed through the
through the relay, is closed and the electric motor rotates in a counterclockwise
right side check valve and activates the thermal valve to release oil pressure and
direction. The pressure side of the pump now becomes the suction side and the
lessen the strain on the motor and pump.
original suction side becomes the pressure side. Pressurized oil from the pump
passes through a series of valves to the upper chamber of the trim cylinders, the
pistons are retracted and the outboard unit is lowered. The fluid in the lower Troubleshooting the Power Trim/Tilt System
chamber of the pistons is routed back to the reservoir as the retracted is
extended. When the desired position for trim is obtained, the switch on the con- Any time a problem develops in the power trim/tilt system the first step is to
trol handle is released and the outboard is held stationary. determine whether it is electrical or hydraulic in nature. After the determination
If the trim cylinder pistons should become fully retracted, such as in a tilt is made, then the appropriate steps can be taken to remedy the problem.
down situation, fluid pressure in the upper chamber of the trim cylinders The first step in troubleshooting is to make sure all the connectors are prop-
increases. This increase in pressure opens an up relief valve and the fluid is erly plugged in and that all the terminals and wires are free of corrosion. The
routed to the reservoir. The sound of the electric motor and the pump will have a simple act of disconnecting and connecting a terminal may sometimes loosen
noticeable change. corrosion that preventing a proper electrical connection. Inspect each terminal
In the event the outboard lower unit should strike an underwater object while carefully and coat each with dielectric grease to prevent corrosion.
the boat is underway, the tilt piston would be suddenly and forcibly extended, The next step is to make sure the battery is fully charged and in good condi-
moved upward. For this reason, the lower end of the ti It piston is capped with a tion. While checking the battery, perform the same maintenance on the battery
free piston. T.his free piston normally moves up and down with the tilt piston. cables as you did on the electrical terminals. Disconnect the cables (negative
The free piston also moves upward but at a much slower rate than the tilt side first), clean and coat them and then reinstall them. If the battery is past its
piston. The action of the tilt piston separating from the free piston causes two useful life, replace it. If it only requires a charge, charge it.
actions. First, the hydraulic fluid in the upper chamber above the piston is com- Check the power trim/tilt fuse (as appropriate). Many systems will have a

9-8 TRIM AND TILT
fuse to prevent large current draws from damaging the system. If this fuse is
blown, the system will cease to function. This is a good indicator that you may
have problems elsewhere in the electric system. Fuses don't blow without cause.
After inspecting the electrical side of the system, check the hydraulic fluid
level and top it off as necessary. Remember to position the motor properly (full
tilt up or down) to get an accurate measurement of fluid level. A slight decrease
in the level of hydraulic fluid may cause the system to act sporadically.
Finally, make sure the manual release valve is in the proper position. A
slightly open manual release valve may prevent the system from working prop-
erly and mimic other more serious problems.
Just remember to check the simple things first. If these simple tests do not
diagnose the cause of the problem, then it is time to investigate more deeply.
Perform the hydraulic pressure tests in this section to determine if the pump is
making adequate pressure. Inspect the entire power trim/tilt electrical harness
with a multimeter, checking for excessive resistance and proper voltage.
Trim/Tilt Pump
TESTING
External Pump
~Early tilt/trim system tests used a pressure gauge connected directly 05009G10
to the pump. While this method was adequate, later tests use a more Fig. 13 Pressure gauge connection points-DT115 and DT140 and
system oriented approach and connect a pressure gauge inline between 1993 and later DT75 and DT85
the pump and the cylinders.
TILT DOWN PRESSURE TEST

1. Remove the outlet tube from ports (A) and (B) as shown in the illustra-
tion.
2. Connect a minimum 3000 psi test gauge between ports (A) and (B).
its stroke.
fied pressure, the pump may be faulty.
6. Remove the test gauge and connect the outlet tube securely.
TILT UP PRESSURE TEST
1. Remove the outlet tube from ports (C) and (D) as shown in the illustra-
0500%08 tion.
Fig. 11 Early lilt/trim system tests used a pressure gauge connected 2. Connect a minimum 3000 psi test gauge between the ports.
directly to the pump 3. Operate the power tilt switch up until the tilt rod reaches the full stroke.
7. Perform the same test with ports (F) and (G).
8. After the following tests have been performed, check the tube connections
for leaks, check the oil level in the reservoir and perform a system bleeding.
Integral Pump
t See Figure 14
TILT DOWN PRESSURE TEST
1. Raise the engine to the full tilt position and lower the tilt lock lever.
2. Remove the outlet tube from ports (A) and (B) as shown in the illustra-
tion.
3. Connect a minimum 3000 psi test gauge between the ports.
4. Close test gauge valve (B) and open test gauge valve (A.)
5. Operate the power tilt switch up until the tilt rod reaches the full stroke.
6. The specified oil pressure is 1280-1700 psi (8826-11720 kPa).
05009G09
Fig. 12 Pressure gauge connection points-DT55, DT60, DT65 and TILT UP PRESSURE TEST
1992 and prior DT75 and DT85 1. Close test gauge valve (A) and open test gauge valve (B.)

TRIM AND TILT 9-9
6. Remove the bolts/nuts mounting the pump to the stern bracket, then lift
the pump from the bracket.
To install:
7. Position the pump on the stern bracket and install the mounting
bolts/nuts.
8. Connect the lines to the hydraulic unit and using a flare nut wrench,
tighten the fittings securely.
9. Connect the motor electrical harness.
10. Fill the fluid reservoir to capacity and bleed the air from the system.
11. Check the power tilt system for proper operation.
Integral Pump
• See Figure 15
The tilt/trim pump on these units is integral with the trim cylinder assembly
® and cannot be removed separately. If pump service is required, the entire
trim/tilt assembly must be removed and disassembled to access the proper
parts of the housing where the pump is located.
Trim/Tilt Motor
TESTING
VALVI: A
05009G11 1. Ensure the manual release valve is in the manual tilt position.
Fig. 14 Pressure gauge connection points-DT90, DT100, V4 and V6 2. Disconnect the trim/tilt motor wiring harness at the quick connect fit-
tings.
its stroke.
3. The specified oil pressure is 400-800 psi (2,800-5,600 kPa).
5. Check the oil level, refill and bleed the system as described in this chapter
7. After the following tests have been performed, check the tube connec-
tions for leaks, check the oil level in the reservoir and perform a system bleed-
ing.
External Pump
1. External pumps are mounted on the stern bracket and easily serviced.
2. Label and disconnect the motor electrical harness.
3. Label the hydraulic lines for proper positioning.
4. Use a flare nut wrench tQloosen the fittings.
5. Disconnect the lines from the hydraulic unit and cap them to prevent the
entry of di rt.
05009P11 05009P12 05009P04

9-10 TRIM AND TILT
To install:
7. Insure the mating surfaces of the motor and manifold are clean.
8. Install a new 0-ring and position the drive joint in place.
9. Check the level of fluid in the gear pump area. Add fluid until the filter is
covered.
10. Position the motor in place, insuring the drive joint is fully inserted into
the gear pump assembly.
~When installing the motor, insure the lip of the armature shaft is
firmly snugged into the drive joint. Double check this alignment prior to
lightening the attaching screws.
11. Install and securely tighten the motor-to-pump attaching screws.
12. Connect the trim/tilt motor wiring harness.
13. Install the trim/tilt assembly if removed.
14. Lower the outboard.
15. Bleed the trim/tilt hydraulic system.
16. Check the trim/tilt system for proper operation.
External Pump
05009P40
Fig. 15 Typical integral pump trim/till system used on a V4 or V6
outboard ~on some models it may be necessary to remove the trim/lilt assembly
prior to removing the trim/lilt motor.
3. Using jumper cables, momentarily make contact between the discon- 1. Raise the outboard to the full tilt position and safely support it in this
nected leads and a fully charged battery. position.
2. Remove the trim/tilt assembly as necessary to gain access to the trim/tilt
~Make the contact only as long as necessary to hear the electric motor motor.
rotating. 3. Label and disconnect the trim/tilt motor wiring harness.
4. Reverse the leads on the battery posts and again listen for the sound of 4. Remove motor-to-pump attaching screws.
the motor rotating. The motor should rotate with the leads making contact with 5. Lift the motor from the manifold, noting the position of the drive joint
the battery in either direction. and the 0-ring prior to removing them.
5. If the motor operates properly, the problem may be in the trim/tilt switch 6. Discard the 0-ring.
or associated wiring. To install:
6. If the motor does not operate as specified, it may be faulty. 7. Insure the mating surfaces of the motor and manifold are clean.
8. Install a new 0-ring and position the drive joint in place.
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 9. Check the level of fluid in the gear pump area. Add fluid until the filter is
covered.
Integral Pump
•See Figure 16
~on some models ii may be necessary to remove the trim/lilt assembly
prior to removing the trim/lilt motor.
1. Raise the outboard to the full tilt position and safely support it in this
position.
2. Remove the trim/tilt assembly as necessary to gain access to the trim/tilt
motor.
3. Label and disconnect the trim/tilt motor wiring harness.
4. Remove motor-to-pump-attaching screws.
5. Lift the motor from the manifold, noting the position of the drive joint
and the 0-ring prior to removing them.
6. Discard the 0-ring.
PTT
motor 05009P14
Step 9
10. Position the motor in place, insuring the drive joint is fully inserted into
the gear pump assembly.
~When installing the motor, insure the tip of the armature shaft is
firmly snugged into the drive joint. Double check this alignment prior to
lightening the attaching screws.
05009G21
Fig. 16 Integral pump motors are usually attached to the hydraulic 11. Install and securely tighten the motor-to-pump attaching screws.
unit by four screws 12. Connect the trim/tilt motor wiring harness.

TRIM AND TILT 9-11
3. Remove the screws attaching the field case to the rear brush cover.
4. Remove the field case with the armature installed from the rear brush cover.
,..Push the motor wiring harness toward the case removing the arma-
ture assembly.
5. Remove the armature from the field case.
6. Once removed take care to keep the components clean by placing them
on a clean sheet of paper. The smallest amount of dirt may hinder proper motor
operation.
05009P15
Step 10
13. Install the trim/tilt assembly if removed.

14. Lower the outboard. 05009G19
15. Bleed the trim/tilt hydraulic system. Step 5

16. Check the trim/tilt system for proper operation.
DISASSEMBLY External Pump

Integral Pump
1. Loosen the water tight connection that surrounds the wiring harness at
• See accompanying illustrations the at the top of the motor and slide the nut and boot up the wire.
2. Remove the screws attaching the upper cover to the yoke assembly.
1. Remove the screw attaching the wire holder and carefully pull the wires
from the motor.
2. Remove the wire grommets from their position in the motor carefully.
05009G16
Step 1
Protector
tube
05009G17 05009P19
Step 2 Step 2

9-12 TRIM AND TILT
05009P36 05009P34 05009P32
3. Carefully lift the brush holder from the yoke. 4. Inspect the mica depth on the commutator. If the mica depth is less than
4. Lift the armature from the yoke making sure to keep the commutator clean. 0.020 in. (0.5mm) or the grooves are clogged, use a hacksaw blade or small file
to deepen the grooves.
,..On some models, the field windings are an integral part of the yoke
5. Check for continuity between each section of the armature. If an open cir-
and cannot be removed.
cuit exists between any two segments of the armature it is faulty and should be
5. Carefully remove the brush holder and field windings from the yoke. replaced.
6. Remove the yoke from the pump housing and discard the 0-ring. 6. Check for continuity between the commutator and armature coil core. If
continuity exists the armature is faulty and should be replaced.
CLEANING & INSPECTION 7. Check for continuity between the commutator and armature shaft. If conti-
nuity exists the armature is faulty and should be replaced.
1. Clean all components with a electrical contact cleaner and dry using
compressed air.
2. Measure brush length using calipers. Standard brush length should be
0.51 in. (13mm) and the service limit is .035 in. (9mm). If brush length is
beyond the service limit, replace the brushes.
3. Check for continuity between the brush and the terminal on the breaker
assembly. Replace the breaker assembly if there is no continuity.
05009P30 05009P27
Step 4 Step 6

TRIM AND TILT 9-13
ASSEMBLY
Integral Pump
1. Install a new 0-ring on the pump housing and fit the yoke in place.
2. Install the armature in the field case.
05009P38
Step 1
,..Pull the motor wires through the field case while installing the arma-
ture.
3. Check the armature for smooth rotation.
4. Install a new 0-ring.
5. Install the rear brush cover on the field case.
6. Align any matchmarks on the field case and install the screws attaching
the field case to the rear brush cover.
7. Install the wire grommets on the motor carefully.
8. Install the screw attaching the wire holder.
Step 3
4. Place the upper cover on the assembly and securely tighten the attaching
screws.
5. Secure the water tight connection that surrounds the wiring harness at
the at the top of the motor.
05009G20
Step 4
External Pump
1. Slide the field windings into the yoke, as applicable.
2. Slide the armature carefully into the yoke. 05009P37
3. Place the brush holder over the armature shaft and using a pick to hold
the brushes back. Step 4

9-14 TRIM AND TILT
5. Remove the tilt rod pins. It may be necessary to use a drift to push the
Trim/Tilt Cylinder pins through the bore.
6. Some tilt rods are held in by a single pin, while others use two separate
TESTING pins.
7. Remove the fasteners holding the cylinder support bracket to the clamp
• See Figure 14 bracket assembly.
8. Remove the cylinder support bracket with the cylinders attached.
,..This test can only be performed on the integral pump models. 9. Remove the lower cylinder shaft fasteners.
1. Raise the engine to the full tilt position and lower the tilt lock lever. 10. Slide the shaft from the support bracket and cylinders.
2. Remove the outlet tube from ports "A" and "C" as shown in the illustration. 11. Remove the cylinders.
3. Connect a minimum 3000 psi test gauge between the ports. To install:
4. Operate the power tilt switch up until the tilt rod reaches the full stroke. 12. Install the cylinders.
5. Close test gauge valve "B" before releasing the switch. 13. Lubricate and install the lower cylinder shaft.
6. If the pressure reading does not remain steady, the tilt cylinder must be 14. Install the lower cylinder shaft fasteners.
disassembled an inspected for a damaged seal ring, scored cylinder or shock 15. Install the cylinder support bracket with the cylinders attached.
valve problem. Replace if necessary. 16. Install and securely tighten the fasteners holding the cylinder support
7. Remove the test gauge and connect the tubes securely. bracket to the clamp bracket assembly.
8. Remove the outlet tube from ports "B" and "D" as shown in the illustration. 17. Lubricate and install the tilt rod pins.
9. Repeat the tests as previously performed. 18. Install the tilt rod pin fasteners.
10. After the following tests have been performed, check the tube connections 19. Connect the hydraulic lines taking special care not to crossthread the fit-
for leaks, check the oil level in the reservoir and perform a system bleeding. tings.
External Pump
1. Tilt the outboard to the full tilt position and secure it with the tilt lock levers.
,..If the trim/lilt system is inoperable, open the manual release valve
and manually raise the outboard.
2. Label and disconnect the tilt/trim electrical harness.
3. Disconnect and cap the hydraulic lines.
4. Remove the cotter pins and/or snap rings that hold the tilt rod pins in place.
05009P09 05009P07 05009P02

TRIM AND TILT 9-15
20. Connect the tilt/trim electrical harness. 1. Using a pin wrench or equivalent, loosen the cylinder cap.
21. Release the tilt lock levers and lower the outboard. 2. Unscrew the cylinder cap on each rod and carefully remove the rods from
22. Adjust the fluid level in the pump and bleed the hydraulic system the cylinders.
23. Check tilt/trim system for proper operation. 3. Remove and discard the 0-rings on the piston rod.
4. Remove and discard the 0-ring and oil seal on the cylinder cap.
Integral Pump
1. Tilt the outboard to the full tilt position and secure it with the tilt lock levers. 1. Inspect the piston for damage or wear and replace as necessary.
2. It is also wise to provide some sort of auxiliary support to hold the out- 2. Inspect the manual valve for damage or wear and replace as necess-
board in place during servicing. ary.
,..If the trim/tilt system is inoperable, open the manual release valve 3. Inspect and clean the pump filter for damage and replace as necessary.
and manually raise the outboard. The filter may be cleaned using compressed air.
4. Inspect the bore for grooving or damage and replace as necessary.
ASSEMBLY
1. Lubricate the bore and piston with trim/tilt fluid.

2. Install a new 0-ring on the cylinder cap.
3. Install a new 0-ring on the piston rod.
4. Place the cylinder cap on the rod and insert the rod into the bore.
5. Using a pin wrench or equivalent, tighten the cylinder cap securely.
Trim/Tilt Switch ·
Complete diagnosis, testing and servicing procedures for the trim/tilt switch
are located in the "Remote Control" section of this manual.
Trim/Tilt Relay
TESTING
05009G99 Two Terminal Relay

Step 2 • See Figure 17
1. Remove the relay from the outboard.
2. Connect the relay to a 12 volt source and ground.
3. Label and disconnect the trim/tilt assembly wiring harnesses. 3. Check for continuity between the relay terminals.
4. Disconnect the negative, then the positive battery cables. 4. Continuity should exist with 12 volts connected to the relay.
5. Remove the wiring harness stops and holders and feed the harness 5. Continuity should not exist when 12 volts is removed from the relay.
through the engine. 6. If the relay does not function as stated, it may be faulty.
6. Disconnect the trim sensor.
7. Remove the snap ring at each end of the tilt cylinder upper pin. ,..Never assume a relay is bad, always test the relay prior to replacing
8. Carefully drive the upper pin out. it. If the relay tests good, check for opens or shorts in the wires con-
9. Remove the clamp bracket pin nut and the tilt lock pin nut. nected to the relay.
10. Remove the tilt/trim assembly.
To install: Four Terminal Relay
11. Position the tilt/trim assembly in place and secure with the proper fas- •See Figure 18
teners.
12. Lubricate and install the clamp bracket pin nut and the tilt lock pin nut. 1. Remove the relay from the outboard.
13. Lubricate and install the upper pin and secure with a snap ring. 2. Check for continuity between the relay terminals.
14. Feed the harness through the engine case and install the wiring harness 3. Continuity should exist between terminals 1, 2 and 3. Continuity should
stops and holders. not exist between terminals 3 and 4
15. Connect the trim/tilt assembly wiring harnesses. Connect the trim sensor. 4. Connect the relay to a 12 volt source and ground.
16. Connect the negative, then the positive battery cables. 5. Continuity should now exist between terminals 2, 3 and 4.
17. Tilt the outboard to the full tilt position and secure it with the tilt lock levers. 6. If the relay does not function as stated, it may be faulty.
18. Adjust the level of fluid in the hydraulic pump and bleed hydraulic system. ,..Never assume a relay is bad, always test the relay prior to replacing
it. If the relay tests good, check for opens or shorts in the wires con-
DISASSEMBLY nected to the relay.
,..Overhaul procedures for the trim/tilt cylinders are confined to removal REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
of the end cap, removing the piston and replacing the 0-rings. A pin
wrench or spanner wrench is required to remove the end cap. Even with •See Figures 19 and 20
the tool, removal of the end cap is not a simple task. The elements,
especially if the unit has been used in a salt water atmosphere, will have 1. Most trim/tilt relays are located behind a plastic electronic cover under
their corrosive affect on the threads. Any attempt to break the end cap and mounted on the power head. Several types of fasteners are used including
loose may very likely elongate the two holes provided for the wrench. screws, tabs and grommets. When removing the relays, first disconnect the
Once the holes are damaged, all hope of removing the end are lost. The negative battery cables. Then label and disconnect the wires connected to the
only solution in such a case is to replace the cylinder as a unit. relay.

9-16 TRIM AND TILT
PTT relay (UPI
lbi---E:J- Lbl~
Lbl
P-C-P~p
>
~Gy-
To ignition switch
Remote control box

PTT motor
Battery
05009G12
Fig. 17 Typical two terminal relay wiring schematic
PTT switch
PTT relay (UP)
Lbi-EJ-Lbil
0 Lbl
PTI motor
P-ie--P~p To ignition switch
Remote control box
Y/G-
Battery
05009G13
Fig. 18 Typical four terminal relay wiring schematic
05009P46
Fig. 20 Some relays are mounted in grommets which slip onto tabs
Fig. 19 Two terminal relays mounted on the powerhead of a DT55 secured to the powerhead

TROUBLESHOOTING THE REMOTE
CONTROLS 10-2
REMOTE CONTROL CABLES 10-2
ADJUSTMENT 10-2
NEUTRAL START SWITCH 10-2
TESTING 10-2
ENGINE STOP SWITCH 10-5
TESTING 10-5
EMERGENCY STOP SWITCH 10-5
TESTING 10-5
IGNITION SWITCH 10-6
TESTING 10-6
TRIM/TILT SWITCH 10-6
TESTING 10-6
WARNING BUZZER 10-7
TESTING 10-7
TILLER HANDLE 10-7
TROUBLESHOOTING THE TILLER
HANDLE 10-8
TILLER HANDLE 10-8
THROTTLE CABLE 10-10
ADJUSTMENT 10-10
ENGINE STOP SWITCH 10-10
TESTING 10-10
EMERGENCY STOP SWITCH 10-1 O
TESTING 10-10
REMOVAL & INSTALLAflON 10-10
ENGINE START SWITCH 10-10
TESTING 10-10

10-2 REMOTE CONTROL
REMOTE CONTROL BOX
Description and Operation Remote Control Cables
• See Figure 1 REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
The remote control box allows the person at the helm to control the throttle
operation and shift movements from a location other than where the outboard is • See Figure 5
mounted. In most cases, the remote control box is mounted approximately
halfway forward (midship) on the starboard side of the boat. 1. Remove the engine cover.
The control box usually houses a key switch, engine stop switch, choke 2. Loosen the locknut and slacken the remote control cable adjustments at
switch, neutral safety switch, warning buzzer and the necessary wiring and cable the throttle lever.
hardware to connect the control box to the outboard unit. 3. Disconnect the end of the remote control cables from the throttle lever.
4. Remove the screw attaching the throttle reel rod to the throttle grip.
,..There are many different types of remote control assemblies that can 5. Remove the remote control cables from the powerhead.
be installed on your boat. The remote control assemblies covered in this 6. Remove the remote control cables attachments along the side of the boat.
manual are the ones most commonly used by the manufacturer. 7. Remove the remote control unit from the boat.
8. Remove the remote control back cover(s) and disconnect remote control
Troubleshooting the Remote Controls cables.
9. Remove the remote control cables from the boat.
One of the things taken for granted on most boats is the engine controls and To install:
cables. Depending on how they are originally routed, they will either last the life 10. Position the remote control cables in the boat. Insure all bends are
of the vessel or can be easily damaged. These cables should be routinely main- smooth and the cable is not kinked.
tained by careful inspection for kinks or other damage and lubrication with a 11. lnstal I the remote control cable attachments along the side of the boat.
marine grade grease. 12. If the remote control cables are new, screw the cable ends on the cables
If the cables do not operate properly, have a helper operate the controls at the approximately 0.43 in. (11 mm)
helm while you observe the cable and linkage operation at the powerhead. Make 13. Lubricate the cable end with a waterproof marine grease.
sure nothing is binding, bent or kinked. Check the hardware that secures the 14. Connect the remote control cables to the remote control unit.
cables to the boat and powerhead to make sure they are tight. Inspect the clevis 15. Lubricate the cable end with a waterproof marine grease.
and cotter pins in the ends of the cables and also give some attention to the 16. Install the remote control cables into position on the engine case.
cable release hardware. 17. Connect the end of the remote control cables to the throttle lever.
Another area of concern is the neutral start switch that is sometimes located 18. Adjust the remote control cables and tighten the locknut securely.
in the control box and sometimes on the powerhead. This switch may fall out of 19. Install the remote control back cover(s).
adjustment and prevent the engine from being started. It is easily inspected 20. Install the remote control unit on the boat.
using a multimeter by performing a continuity check. 21. Check for proper throttle operation.
Remote Control Box
ADJUSTMENT
• See Figure 6
There are several adjustments that can be made depending on the type of
remote control box and engine size. General adjustments are aimed at making
Side/Panel Mount sure the remote control can be shifted into reverse and forward positions, full
throttle can be achieved in the forward position and reverse throttle is restricted
1. Remove the bolts/screws securing the control box to the boat.
to 3000 rpm to prevent engine run away.
2. Remove the rear cover of the control box.
Since the number and type of adjustments vary with each remote control and
3. Label and disconnect the control cables.
engine combination, it is recommended that you refer to the rigging instructions
4. Label and disconnect the control box electrical harness.
for your individual combination when adjusting the remote control cables.
5. Remove the control box from the boat.
To install:
6. Connect the control box electrical harness. Neutral Start Switch
7. Connect the control cables and properly adjust them, as needed.
8. Install the rear cover of the control box, tightening the screws securely. TESTING
9. Position the control box in the boat.
10. Install and securely tighten the bolts/screws securing the control box to
the boat. • See Figure 7
1. Disconnect the neutral safety switch wiring harness.
Top Mount 2. Connect a multimeter between the switch harness leads.
1. Remove the remote control box housing. 3. With the remote control lever in the neutral position, continuity should
2. Remove the bolts/screws securing the control box to the boat. exist. With the remote control lever in the forward or reverse position, continuity
3. Label and disconnect the control cables. should not exist.
4. Label and disconnect the control box electrical harness. 4. If the switch does not function as specified, there is a short in either the
5. Remove the control box from the boat. switch or harness and the switch should be replaced.
To install: 5. If the switch functions properly, there may be a problem in the powerhead
6. Connect the control box electrical harness. wiring harness.
7. Connect the control cables and properly adjust them, as needed.
8. Position the control box in the boat. REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
9. Install and securely tighten the bolts/screws securing the control box to
the boat. 1. Remove the control box from the side of the boat and open the side cov-
10. Install the remote control box housing. ers to allow access to the internal components.

REMOTE CONTROL 10-3
05000G01
05000G07
Fig. 2 Suzuki's bottom model remote control unit. Fig. 5 Remove the control cables from the throttle lever
N
Neutral
Shift Shift
05000G04
05000G02
Fig. 3 This is the mid-level remote control unit usually used with the Fig. 6 The remote control cables must be adjusted to allow a com-
DT40 plete range of motion in the remote control box
05000P18
05000G03 Fig. 7 With the remote control lever in the neutral position, continu-
Fig. 4 The NA12S remote control unit contains a host of features ity should exist. With the remote control lever in the forward or
including a lever mounted trim/tilt switch reverse position, continuity should not exist

......
1.
2.
3.
4.
Ignition switch
Neutral start switch
Throttle tensioner
Reverse idle speed screw
=I
.i::..
5. Warning buzzer
6. Emergency stop switch :::0
rn
:5:
0
-l
rn
("")
0
:z
-l
:::0
0
r-
05000P01
Fig. 1 The control box typically houses a key switch, engine stop switch, choke switch, neutral safety switch, warning buzzer and the necessary wiring and cable hardware
REMOTE CONTROL 10-5
2. Disconnect the neutral safety switch wiring harness.
3. Remove any wire straps that connect the switch to the control box.
4. Remove any retaining nuts/screws that secure the switch to the control
box.
5. Remove the switch from the control box.
To install:
6. Install the switch on the control box.
7. As required, install the switch retaining nut/screw and tighten securely.
8. Install any wire straps that connect the switch to the control box or
bracket.
9. Connect the neutral safety switch wiring harness.
10. Test the switch for proper operation.
11. Install the control box side covers and mount the control box in the
boat.
Engine Stop Switch

TESTING
05000P05
1. Disconnect the engine stop switch wiring harness. Fig. 8 Connect a multimeter between the switch harness leads. With
2. Connect a multimeter between the switch harness leads. the switch released (as shown), continuity should not exist
3. With the switch engaged (button pushed), continuity should exist. With
the switch released (button not pushed), continuity should not exist.
4. If the switch does not function as specified there is a short in either the
switch or harness and the switch should be replaced.
5. If the switch functions properly, there may be a problem in the powerhead • See Figures 9 and 10
wiring harness. 1. Remove the control box from the side of the boat and open the side cov-
ers to allow access to the internal components.
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 2. Disconnect the emergency stop switch wiring harness.
1. Remove the control box from the side of the boat and open the side cov- 4. Remove any retaining nuts/screws that secure the switch to the control
ers to allow access to the internal components. box.
2. Disconnect the engine stop switch wiring harness.
~some switches are screwed into the end of the control box and simply
unscrew from the handle.
4. Remove any retaining nuts/screws that secure the switch to the control
box. 5. Remove the switch from the control box.
To install:
~some switches are screwed into the end of the control box and simply
6. Install the switch on the control box.
unscrew from the handle.
5. Remove the switch from the control box. 8. Install any wire straps that connect the switch to the control box or
To install: bracket.
6. Install the switch on the control box. 9. Connect the emergency stop switch wiring harness.
8. Install any wire straps that connect the switch to the control box or
bracket.
9. Connect the engine stop switch wiring harness.
11. Install the control box sjde covers and mount the control box in the
boat.
Emergency Stop Switch

TESTING
• See Figure 8
2. Connect a multimeter between the switch harness leads.
3. With the switch engaged (stop switch lanyard pulled), continuity should
exist. With the switch released (stop switch lanyard in position), continuity
should not exist.
switch or harness and the switch should be replaced. 05000P06
5. If the switch functions properly, there may be a problem in the powerhead Fig. 9 The emergency switch is held in place on the remote control
wiring harness. box by a locknut

10-6 REMOTE CONTROL
3. Remove any wire straps that connect the switch to the box.
4. Remove the switch attaching nut.
5. Remove the switch from the control box.
To install:
6. Install the switch in the control box.
7. Install the switch attaching nut and tighten securely.
8. Install any wire straps that connect the switch to the control box.
10. Test the switch for proper operation
11. Install the control box side covers and mount the control box in the boat.
Trim/Tilt Switch
TESTING
05000P07
Fig. 10 Here is the complete switch assembly (switch and lanyard)

t See Figure 12
after being removed from the control box
1. Disconnect the trim/tilt switch wiring harness.
2. Connect a multimeter between the switch harness terminals as illustrated.
10. Test the switch for proper operation. 3. With the switch in the stated positions, check for continuity between the
11. Install the control box side covers and mount the control box in the boat. various terminals.
4. If the switch functions properly, there may be a problem in the powerhead
wiring harness.
Ignition Switch 5. If the switch does not function as specified, the switch may be faulty.
TESTING
t See Figure 11
1. Disconnect the ignition switch wiring harness.
2. Connect a multimeter between the switch harness leads.
3. Consult the wiring diagrams for proper test positions and wiring colors.
•Continuity in the wiring diagram is indicated by two dots with a line
drawn connecting them.
4. With the switch in the stated positions, check for continuity between the
various terminals.
5. If the switch functions properly, there may be a problem in the powerhead
wiring harness.
6. If the switch does not function as specified, the switch may be faulty.
1. Remove the control box from the side of the boat and open the side cov-
05000P20
Fig. 12 Connect a multimeter between the switch harness terminals

as illustrated and check for continuity between the terminals with
the switch in the up and down position
t See Figure 13
1. Remove the control box from the side of the boat and open the side cov-
2. Remove the bolt and washer that retain the remote control lever to the
control box.
3. Remove the remote control lever taking care to not pull on the tilt/trim
wiring harness.
05000P03
4. Label and disconnect the tilt/trim wiring harness.
Fig. 11 Connect a multimeter between the switch harness leads and 5. Remove the screw securing the neutral release lever.
6. Remove the neutral release lever and lever spring.
test for continuity
7. Remove the screw securing the control lever grip.

REMOTE CONTROL 10-7
05000P19 05000P04
Fig. 13 To release the trim/tilt harness from the remote control box, Fig. 14 The warning buzzer must be removed from the remote con-
pinch this connector with needle nose pliers trol box prior to testing
8. Remove the control lever grip from the control lever taking care to not
pull on the tilt/trim wiring harness as you thread it though the holes in the con-
trol lever.
9. Remove the tilt/trim switch from the lever grip.
To install:
10. Install the tilt/trim switch in the lever grip.
11. Thread the tilt/trim wiring harness through the control lever and install
the control lever grip. Secure the grip with the screw.
12. Install the neutral release lever and lever spring, securing them with the
setting plate and screw.
13. Connect the tilt/trim wiring harness.
14. Install the remote control lever securing them with the bolt and washer
to the remote control box.
15. Install the control box from the side of the boat and open the side covers
to allow access to the internal components.
Warning Buzzer
TESTING
05000P09
•See Figures 14 and 15 Fig. 15 The warning buzzer is tested by simply connecting it to a 12
volt power source
1. The warning buzzer is tested by simply connecting it to a 12 volt power
source.
2. The buzzer should sound when properly connected to power. 2. Disconnect the buzzer wiring harness.
3. If the buzzer functions properly, there may be a problem in the wiring 3. Remove any wire straps that connect the buzzer wiring harness to the box.
harness. 4. Remove the buzzer from the control box.
4. If the buzzer does not perform as stated, it may be faulty. To install:
5. Install the buzzer in the control box.
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 6. Install any wire straps that connect the buzzer harness to the control box.
7. Connect the buzzer wiring harness.
1. Remove the control box from the side of the boat and open the side cov- 8. Test the buzzer for proper operation.
ers to allow access to the internal components. 9. Install the control box side covers and mount the control box in the boat.
TILLER HANDLE
An emergency engine stop switch is used on most outboards to prevent the
Description and Operation engine from continuing to run without the operator in control. This switch is
Steering control for most outboards begins at the tiller handle and ends at controlled by a small clip which keeps the switch open during normal engine
the propeller. Tiller steering is the most simple form of small outboard control. operation. When the clip is removed, a spring inside the switch closes it and
All components are mounted directly to the engine and are easily serviceable. completes a ground connection to stop the engine. The clip is connected to a
Throttle control is performed via a throttle grip mounted to the tiller arm. As lanyard that is worn around the helmsman's wrist.
the grip is rotated a cable opens and closes the throttle lever on the engine. An Some tiller systems utilize a throttle stopper system which limits throttle
adjustment thumbscrew is usually located near the throttle grip to allow adjust- opening when the shift lever is in neutral and reverse. This prevents overrevving
ment of the turning resistance. In this way, the operator does not have to keep the engine under no-load conditions and also limits the engine speed when in
constant pressure on the grip to maintain engine speed. reverse.

10-8 REMOTE CONTROL
3. Remove the mounting collar, mounting rubber, distance collar and special
Troubleshooting the Tiller Handle washer from the tiller handle.
If the tiller steering system seems loose, first check the engine for proper To install:
mounting. Ensure the engine is fastened to the transom securely. Next, check 4. Install the mounting collar, mounting rubber, distance collar and special
the tiller hinge point where it attaches to the engine and tighten the hinge pivot washer on the tiller handle.
bolt as necessary. 5. Position the tiller handle on the outboard and install the tiller handle
Excessively tight steering that cannot be adjusted using the tension adjust- pivot bolt. Tighten the pivot bolt securely.
ment is usually due to a lack of lubrication. Once the swivel case bushings 6. Check the handle for smooth operation.
run dry, the steering shaft wi 11 get progressively tighter and eventually seize. 7. Install the engine cover.
This condition is generally caused by a lack of periodic maintenance.
Correct this condition by lubricating the swivel case bushings and working the Single Cable
outboard back and forth to spread the lubricant. However, this may only be atem- • See Figure 16
porary fix. In severe cases, the swivel case bushings may need to be replaced.
2. Place the throttle grip in the idle position on the tiller arm.
Tiller Handle 3. Loosen the locknut, slacken the adjustment on the throttle cable and
remove the cable at the throttle lever.
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 4. Label and disconnect the engine stop switch wiring harness.
5. Remove the tiller handle through bolts.
6. Remove the rubber grommets from the stopper, then remove the stopper
Without Cable from the tiller handle.
1. Remove the engine cover. 7. Remove the tiller handle inner bushing and mount.
2. Remove the tiller handle pivot bolt and carefully remove the tiller handle. 8. Slide the tiller handle from the engine case.
1. Tiller handle
2. Tiller handle bushing
3. Tiller handle mount
4. Tiller handle stopper
5. Handle grip
6. Handle rod
7. Throttle adjustment plate
,, 8. Handle rod support
9. Throttle adjustment knob
10. Throttle cable
11. Throttle cable guide
12. Handle grip screw
13. Handle rod support screw
14. Throttle adjustment knob nut
15. 0-ring
18 16. Stop switch lead grommet
I 17. Throttle cable grommet
~
18. Throttle cable clamp
19. Tiller handle stopper bolt
20. Handle grip sticker
21. Plug
OSOOOGOS
Fig. 16 Exploded view of an engine case with a single cable tiller handle

REMOTE CONTROL 10-9
9. Carefully remove the tiller handle from the bracket. 4. Label and disconnect the engine stop switch wiring harness.
To install: 5. Remove the bolts/nuts attaching the tiller handle bracket bolts.
10. Lubricate the throttle reel where the cable makes contact and the tiller 6. Remove the rubber grommets from the stopper, then remove the stopper
handle where it goes through the engine case. from the tiller handle.
11. Carefully guide the throttle cable and wiring harness through the hole in 7. Remove the tiller handle inner bushing and mount.
the case and install tiller handle. 8. Slide the tiller handle from the engine case.
12. Install the tiller handle inner bushing and mount. 9. Carefully remove the tiller handle from the bracket.
13. Install the stopper on the tiller handle. To install:
14. Install the rubber grommets on the stopper. 10. Lubricate the throttle reel where the cable makes contact and the tiller
15. Remove the tiller handle through bolts and tighten securely. handle where it goes through the engine case.
16. Connect the engine stop switch wiring harness. 11. Carefully guide the throttle cable and wiring harness through the hole in
17. Install the throttle cable and adjust the throttle cable tension. Tighten the the case and install tiller handle.
locknut securely. 12. Install the tiller handle inner bushing and mount
18. Operate the throttle grip and check for proper operation at lull throttle 13. Install the stopper on the tiller handle.
and idle. 14. Install the rubber grommets on the stopper.
19. Install the engine cover. 15. Remove the tiller handle through bolts and tighten securely.
Dual Cables 17. Install the throttle cable and adjust the throttle cable tension. Tighten the
locknut securely.
• See Figure 17
18. Operate the throttle grip and check for proper operation at lull throttle
1. Remove the engine cover. and idle.
2. Place the throttle grip in the idle position on the tiller arm. 19. Install the engine cover.
3. Loosen the locknut, slacken the adjustment on the throttle cables and
remove the cables at the throttle lever.
1. Cover
2. Handle cover spacer
3. Handle cover spacer
4. Stop switch cover
5. Bolt stud
6. Lock washer
7. Nut
8. Handle grip sticker
9. Tiller handle
10. Throttle cable assembly
11. Guide cable
12. Bushing
13. Grip adjuster set
14. Handle lock spring
15. Handle rod pin
16. Handle rod stopper
17. Washer
18. Screw
19. Handle grip
20. Release screw cap
21. Handle rod
22. Tiller handle shim
16-© TfLLEif H.4o\OLE

ASSY
I'
17~
18~
05000G06
Fig. 17 Exploded view of an engine case with a dual cable tiller handle

10-10 REMOTE CONTROL
4. Remove the switch from the tiller handle.
Throttle Cable To install:
5. Install the switch on the tiller handle.
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 6. As required, install the switch retaining nut/screw and tighten securely.
7. Install any wire straps that connect the switch to the tiller handle or bracket.
1. Remove the engine cover. 8. Connect the engine stop switch wiring harness.
2. Place the tiller handle in the up position with the throttle grip in the idle 9. Test the switch for proper operation.
position.
3. Loosen the locknut and slacken the throttle cable adjustment at the Emergency Stop Switch
throttle lever.
4. Disconnect the end of the throttle cable from the throttle lever.
5. Remove the screw attaching the throttle reel rod to the throttle grip. TESTING
6. Loosen the friction bolt on the throttle friction block.
7. Lower the throttle reel assembly from the tiller handle and disconnect 1. Disconnect the engine stop switch wiring harness.
the throttle cable. 2. Connect a multimeter between the switch harness leads.
8. Remove the throttle cable from the powerhead 3. With the switch engaged (stop switch lanyard pulled), continuity should
To install: exist. With the switch released (stop switch lanyard in position), continuity
9. Install the throttle cable into position on the engine case. should not exist.
10. Lubricate the throttle cable and throttle reel prior to installation. 4. If the switch does not function as specified there is a short in either the
11. Connect the throttle cable end to the throttle reel and route the cable switch or harness and the switch should be replaced.
around the reel. 5. If the switch functions properly, there may be a problem in the powerhead
12. Install the throttle reel assembly into the tiller arm and tighten the fric- wiring harness.
tion bolt to hold it in place
13. Install the screw attaching the throttle reel rod to the throttle grip. REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
14. Connect the end of the throttle cable to the throttle lever.
15. Adjust the throttle cable tension and tighten the locknut securely. 1. Disconnect the emergency stop switch wiring harness.
16. Check for proper throttle operation. 2. Remove any wire straps that connect the switch to the tiller handle or
17. Install the engine cover. bracket.
3. Remove any retaining nuts/screws that secure the switch to the tiller
ADJUSTMENT handle.
_.Some switches are screwed into the end of the tiller handle and sim-
ply unscrew from the handle.
2. Loosen the locknut holding the cable adjusting nut in place.
3. Adjust cable(s) to zero slack with the throttle in the idle position. 4. Remove the switch from the tiller handle.
4. Disable the ignition by disconnecting the negative battery cable and To install:
removing the spark plugs from the powerhead. 5. Install the switch on the tiller handle.
5. Place lower unit in forward and manually spin prop insure full engage- 6. As required, install the switch retaining nut/screw and tighten securely.
ment of the gears. 7. Install any wire straps that connect the switch to the tiller handle or
6. Remove the carburetor air box or cover. bracket.
7. Turn the throttle grip to the full throttle position. 8. Connect the emergency stop switch wiring harness.
8. Visually inspect the throttle plate(s) to insure they are centered. If the 9. Test the switch for proper operation.
throttle plate(s) are not perfectly centered in the throttle bore, adjust the cable(s)
to obtain perfect centering.
9. Tighter: the locknut holding the cable adjusting nut in place Engine Start Switch
10. Install the spark plugs and connect the negative battery cable.
11. Install the engine cover. TESTING
12. Test the engine at full throttle under load.
Engine Stop Switch 2. Connect a multimeter between the switch harness leads.
3. With the switch engaged (button pressed), continuity should exist. With
the switch released (button not depressed), continuity should not exist.
TESTING 4. If the switch does not function as specified there is a short in either the
switch or harness and the switch should be replaced.
1. Disconnect the engine stop switch wiring harness. 5. If the switch functions properly, there may be a problem in the powerhead
2. Connect a multimeter between the switch harness leads. wiring harness.
3. With the switch engaged (button pushed), continuity should exist. With
the switch released (button not pushed), continuity should not exist. REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
switch or harness and the switch should be replaced. 1. Disconnect the engine start switch wiring harness.
5. If the switch functions properly, there may be a problem in the powerhead 2. Remove any wire straps that connect the switch to the tiller handle or
wiring harness. bracket.
3. Remove any retaining nuts/screws that secure the switch to the engine
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION case.
4. Remove the switch from the engine case.
1. Disconnect the engine stop switch wiring harness. To install:
2. Remove any wire straps that connect the switch to the tiller handle or 5. Install the switch on the engine case.
bracket. 6. As required, install the switch retaining nut/screw and tighten securely.
3. Remove any retaining nuts/screws that secure the switch to the tiller handle. 7. Install any wire straps that connect the switch wiring harness.
8. Connect the engine start switch wiring harness.
_.Some switches are screwed into the end of the tiller handle and sim-
ply unscrew from the handle.

TROUBLESHOOTING THE HAND REWIND
STARTER 11-2
OVERHEAD TYPE STARTER 11-2
DT2, DT2.2, DT4 AND DTSY 11-2
DISASSEMBLY 11-2
ASSEMBLY 11-3
DTS, DT6AND DT811-4
DISASSEMBLY 11-4
ASSEMBLY 11-6
DT9.9 AND DT15 11-6
ADJUSTMENT 11-6
DISASSEMBLY 11-7
ASSEMBLY 11-7
DT20, DT25 AND DT2811-8
DISASSEMBLY 11-8
ASSEMBLY 11-9
DT25C, DT30C, DT35C AND OT40C 11-9
ADJUSTMENT 11-9
DISASSEMBLY 11-9
ASSEMBLY 11-10
BENDIX TYPE STARTER 11-10
DTS, DT6AND DT811-10
DISASSEMBLY 11-10
ASSEMBLY 11-11
DT20, DT25 AND DT28 11-11
DISASSEMBLY 11-11
ASSEMBLY 11-12

11-2 HAND REWIND STARTER
HAND REWIND STARTER
Description and Operation Troubleshooting The Hand Rewind Starter
• See Figures 2, 3 and 4 Repair on hand rewind starter units is generally confined to rope, pawl
and occasionally spring replacement.
The main components of a hand rewind starter (recoil starter) are the
cover, rewind spring and pawl arrangement. Pulling the rope rotates the **CAUTION
pulley, winds the spring and activates the pawl into engagement with the
starter hub at the top of the flywheel. Once the pawl engages the hub, the When replacing the recoil starter spring extreme caution must be used.
The spring is under tension and can be dangerous if not released
powerhead is spun as the rope unwinds from the pulley.
properly.
Releasing the rope on rewind starter moves the pawl out of mesh with the
hub. The powerful clock-type spring recoils the pulley in the reverse direction Starters which use friction springs to assist pawl action may suffer from
to rewind the rope to the original position. bent springs. This will cause the amount of friction exerted to not be correct
Some starters may use a Neutral Start Interlock (NSI) system. The hand and the pawl will not be moved into engagement.
rewind starter should not function when the shift handle is in any other Models equipped with a neutral start interlock system may experience a
position than NEUTRAL. This prevents starting in gear and possibly throwing no-start condition due to a misadjusted interlock cable. The hand rewind
the occupants overboard. Always check for the proper function of this system starter should only function when the shift handle is in the NEUTRAL
after any repairs. position.
Fig. 2 A typical hand rewind starter Fig. 2 On larger outboards with electric Fig. 3 ... is usually mounted under the
assembly sits atop the outboard's flywheel starters, an emergency hand-pull rope ... cowl
OVERHEAD TYPE STARTER
DT2, DT2.2, DT4 and DTSY

1. Remove the engine cover fasteners and lift off the engine covers.
2. Remove the recoil starter assembly attaching bolts and lift the
assembly from the powerhead.-
To install:
3. Place the recoil starter assembly on the powerhead and tighten the
attaching nuts securely.
4. Install the engine covers and secure them with the cover fasteners.
5. Pull the starter knob several times and check for the proper operation
of the ratcheting mechanism.
DISASSEMBLY
1. Pull the starter rope out as far as it will come and hold the drum with
your finger to prevent the rope from rewinding.
2. Hook the rope on the notch of the drum and gently rotate the drum
clockwise to release spring tension.
CD Starter case ®Drive pawl
• The coil spring will be will attempt to turn the drum quickly. Using ®Rope guide <J) Pilot shaft spring
your finger, prevent the drum from spinning. @ Starter grip assembly ®Plate
@ Recoil spring ® Starter cup
3. With the rope and spring fully stretched and the drum turned all the ®Sheave drum @l Magneto insulator
way, remove the drum securing bolt.
4. Remove the plate that covers the drum and the ratcheting pawl. Fig. 4 Exploded view of the starter assembly • DT2 and DT2.2

A. Plate B. Drive pawl

Fig. 5 Removing the plate that covers the drum and the ratcheting
pawl
Fig. 7 Lubricate the starter assembly at the following locations •

DT2, DT2.2, DT4 and DTSY
ASSEMBLY
1. Position the coil spring in the starter case, feeding the outer portion
of the spring into the case first and positioning the remainder in the case
Fig. 6 If the drum will not lift out smoothly, disengage the spring gradually.
from the drum using screwdriver inserted into the hole on drum
**CAUTION
5. Remove the drum by lifting it gently from the housing. If the drum will During installation, the spring will be placed under high tension. Take
not lift out smoothly, disengage the spring from the drum using screwdriver all applicable cautions when working with this spring.
inserted into the hole on drum .
• It is advisable to wear heavy gloves while removing the spring to 2. Place the bent end of the spring into the groove on the drum.
prevent your hands from being cut by the sharp spring steel.
**CAUTION
The starter drum spring is under high tension. If the spring should
come loose, it may cause serious damage or personal injury. Take all
applicable cautions when working with this spring.
6. Carefully remove the coil spring from the starter case.
CLEANING AND INSPECTION

©
• See Figure 7
/_\._r-/ Sheave drum
Clean all components and then blow them dry using compressed air.
Remove any trace of corrosion and wipe all metal parts with an oil I/
/
~,/
, \ /Recoil spring
dampened cloth to prevent future corrosion.

Inspect the rope. Replace the rope if it appears to be weak or frayed. If
I I
I
,':f. :-.
' \'
y, \
the rope is frayed, check the holes through which the rope passes for rough I I l \
I I·· I I
edges or burrs. Remove the rough edges or burrs with a file and polish the \\\-:1//
surface until it is smooth. \ ' --..;;- I I
'\. , ___ _,/ / A.Grooveindrum
Inspect the starter return spring end hooks. Replace the spring if it is / B. Bent end of spring
weak, corroded or cracked. Inspect the inside surface of the starter case and '--- __ / C. Hole to guide spring
drum for grooves or roughness. Grooves may cause erratic rewinding of the
starter rope.
Inspect and lubricate the ratchet mechanism with waterproof grease. Fig. 8 If the spring is not engaged properly during assembly, insert
Check the mechanism for freedom of movement. a rod into the hole on the drum and guide the spring end into
engagement with the drum

To install:
5. Pull the starter knob several times and check for the proper operation of
the ratcheting mechanism.
DISASSEMBLY
• See Figure 11
1. Hook the rope on the notch of the drum and gently rotate the drum clock-
wise to release spring tension.
2. Remove the E-clip and drive plate that covers the drive pawl.
3. Remove the return spring and spacer, then remove the drive pawl.
4. Remove the drum.
D. Washer _.It is advisable to wear heavy gloves while removing the spring to pre·
E. Space between pilot shaft springs vent your hands from being cut by the sharp spring steel.
F. Tongue on drive pawl
0500AG05
**CAUTION
Fig. 9 Ensure the tongue on the drive pawl is properly positioned
into the space between the pilot shaft springs on the plate The starter drum spring is under high tension. If the spring should
come loose, it may cause serious damage or personal injury. Take
all applicable cautions when working with this spring.
3.1 - 5.3 lb 5. Carefully remove the coil spring from the starter case.
(1.4 - 2.4 kg)
11.8 in.
(300mm)
0500AG06
Fig. 10 Rope length should be 11.8 in. (300mm) between the pull
handle and the starter case
3. Twist the drum counterclockwise to make sure the spring is positively

engaged. If resistance is not felt, the spring may not be engaged properly. If this 9
is the case, insert a rod into the hole on the drum and guide the spring end into :·-~
___ _! ___ :
engagement with the drum. I '
4. Install the washer, drive pawl and plate. Ensure the tongue on the drive >
I
I
I
pawl is properly positioned into the space between the pilot shaft springs on the >
'
I
I
plate. · - ·- - - - - - - - - .J
5. Secure the drum in place by tightening the bolt securely.

6. Attach the pull rope in to the notch on the drum and turn the drum
counterclockwise 6 rotations.
7. Remove the rope from the notch and gently wind it in under the force of 1 . Starter case 6. Drive pawl
the spring to take it up into the drum. 2. Guide plate 7. Return spring
8. Measure the spring resistance using a fish scale. If should be 3.1-5.3 3. Rope guide 8. Drive plate
lbs. of pulling force. 4. Starter grip 9. Starter cup
9. If resistance is not within specification, adjust the amount of counter- 5. Sheave drum 0500AG07
clockwise rotations made prior to allowing rope to rewind into the drum.
10. Measure the length of the rope at full extension. Rope length should be Fig. 11 Exploded view of the starter assembly-DT6 and OTB
11.8 in. (300mm) between the pull handle and the starter case.
DT6 and OTB CLEANING & INSPECTION
•See Figure 12
1. Remove the engine cover fasteners and lift off the engine covers. Remove any trace of corrosion and wipe all metal parts with an oil dampened
2. Remove the recoil starter assembly attaching bolts and lift the assembly cloth to prevent tuture corrosion.
from the powerhead. Inspect the rope. Replace the rope if it appears to be weak or frayed. If the
ro~e is frayed, check the holes through which the rope passes for rough edges

NOTE:
Wipe off iron dust, oil, etc.,
using a cloth dipped with
thinner.
Apply
grease
here
0500AG21
Fig. 12 Lubricate the starter assembly at the following locations-DT6 and OTB
or burrs. Remove the rough edges or burrs with a file and polish the surface 7. Remove the rope from the notch and gently wind it in under the force of
until it is smooth. the spring to take it up into the drum.
Inspect the starter return spring end hooks. Replace the spring ii it is weak, 8. Measure the spring resistance using a fish scale. If should be 1.76-3.31
corroded or cracked. Inspect the inside surface of the starter case and drum !or lbs. of pulling force.
grooves or roughness. Grooves may cause erratic rewinding of the starter rope. 9. II resistance is not within specification, adjust the amount of counter-
Inspect and lubricate the ratchet mechanism with waterproof grease. Check clockwise rotations made prior to allowing rope to rewind into the drum.
the mechanism for freedom of movement.
ASSEMBLY

1. Position the coil spring in the starter case, feeding the outer portion of the
spring into the case first and positioning the remainder in the case gradually.
**CAUTION
During installation, the spring will be placed under high tension.
Take all applicable cautions when working with this spring.
2. Place the bent end of the spring into the groove on the drum.
engaged. II resistance is not felt, the spring may not be engaged properly. II this
is the case, insert a rod into the hole on the drum and guide the spring end into
engagement with the drum.
4. Install the drive pawl, spacer and return spring. Install the return spring
first, ensuring the tongue on the spring is first inserted into the hole on the A. Groove in drum
drive plate and then into the hole in the drive pawl. B. Bent end of spring
5. Secure the drum in place by installing the E-clip. 0500AG08
6. Attach the pull rope in to the notch on the drum and turn the drum coun-
terclockwise 6 rotations. Fig. 13 Place the bent end of the spring into the groove on the drum

® ®
/
0500AG11
Fig. 16 Disconnect the neutral start interlock cable from the throttle
limiter
A. Groove in drum D. Sheave drum

B. Bent end of spring E. Recoil Spring
C. Hole
0500AG09
Fig. 14 Cutaway view of spring attachment
Fig. 17 Remove the recoil starter assembly attaching bolts
6. Connect the neutral start cable and adjust it to specification.
the ratcheting mechanism and the neutral starter interlock.
ADJUSTMENT
t See Figure 18
1. Place the gear selector lever in the NEUTRAL position.
2. Using the adjusting nut to adjust the wire length so that the upper match-
mark on the recoil starter aligns with the slit of the stopper arm.
B
A. Hole in drive plate
B. Hole in drive pawl
0500AG10
Fig. 15 Ensure the tongue on the return spring is first inserted into
the hole on the drive plate and then into the hole in the drive pawl
DT9.9 and DT15


1. Remove the engine cover fasteners and lift off the engine covers. 1. Neutral position
2. Forward/reverse position
2. Disconnect the neutral start interlock cable from the throttle limiter. 0500AG13
3. Remove the recoil starter assembly attaching bolts and lift the assembly
from the powerhead. Fig. 18 Using the adjusting nut to adjust the wire length so that the
To install: upper matchmark on the recoil starter aligns with the slit of the
4. Place the recoil starter assembly on the powerhead and tighten the stopper arm in the neutral position and the lower matchmark aligns
attaching nuts securely. in the forward/reverse position

3. Place the gear selector lever in the FORWARD or REVERSE position. _.It is advisable to wear heavy gloves while removing the spring to pre-
4. The lower matchmark on the recoil starter should align with the slit of the vent your hands from being cut by the sharp spring steel.
stopper arm.
5. Pull the starter knob several times with the gear selector in the FOR- **CAUTION
WARD or REVERSE positions and make sure the rope cannot be pulled.
DISASSEMBLY come loose, it may cause serious damage or personal injury. Take
wise to release spring tension. CLEANING & INSPECTION
2. Remove the cotter pin and the washer that secure the stopper arm to the
drum stopper. • See Figure 21
3. Remove the stopper arm and the drum stopper spring.
4. Remove the bolt, the drive plate and the friction spring. Clean all components and then blow them dry using compressed air.
5. Remove the drive pawl and its spring from the drum. Remove any trace of corrosion and wipe all metal parts with an oil dampened
6. Remove the drum with the starter rope still attached. cloth to prevent future corrosion.
7. Remove the drum stopper. Inspect the rope. Replace the rope if it appears to be weak or frayed. If the
rope is frayed, check the holes through which the rope passes for rough edges
or burrs. Remove the rough edges or burrs with a file and polish the surface
until it is smooth.
Inspect the starter return spring end hooks. Replace the spring if it is weak,
corroded or cracked. Inspect the inside surface of the starter case and drum tor
grooves or roughness. Grooves may cause erratic rewinding of the starter rope.
Inspect and lubricate the ratchet mechanism with waterproof grease. Check
ASSEMBLY

1. Position the coil spring in the starter case, feeding the outer portion of
the spring into the case first and positioning the remainder in the case gradu-
3 ally.
1. Cable NSI 6. Drum, sheave

2. Guide, rope 7. Powl, drive
3.Grip 8. Spring A. Reel stopper
4. A.rm, stopper 9. Plate B. Stopper arm
5. Spring
C. Stopper spring
0500AG14 0500AG15
Fig. 19 Exploded view of starter assembly-DT9.9 and DT15 Fig. 20 Neutral start interlock component identification
A. Reel stopper C. Groove in drum

B. Bent end of spring A. Drive plate hole B. Housing boss
0500AG17 0500AG18
0500AG16
Fig. 21 Apply waterproof grease to the Fig. 22 Place the bent end of the spring Fig. 23 Insert the drive plate into the
recoil spring and the bushing into the groove on the drum housing boss during assembly

**CAUTION
2. Lubricate the spring and center bushing with waterproof grease.

3. Install the drum stopper.
engaged. If resistance is not felt, the spring may not be engaged properly.
6. Insert the shorter bent end of the drive pawl spring into the drum hole
and then hook the longer bent end on the drive pawl groove. Turn the drive pawl
clockwise to ensure the assembly is installed properly.
7. Lubricate and install the drive plate and the friction spring.
8. Install the stopper arm and the drum stopper spring.
9. Install the cotter pin and the washer that secure the stopper arm to the
drum stopper.
10. Wind the rope around the drum 2.5 times counterclockwise and hook
the rope in to the notch on the drum. Rotate the drum counterclockwise 4 rota-
tions and wind the rope around the drum.
DT20 and DT25

1. Starter case
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 2. Starter roll spring
3. Sheave drum
1. Remove the engine cover fasteners and lift off the engine covers. 4. Spring
2. Remove the recoil starter assembly attaching bolts and lift the assembly 5. Drive pawl
from the powerhead. 6. Drive plate
To install:
7. Starter cup
3. Place the recoil starter assembly on the powerhead and tighten the 0500AG19
4. Install the engine covers and secure them with the cover fasteners. Fig. 24 Exploded view of the starter assembly-DT20 and DT25
the ratcheting mechanism.
DISASSEMBLY
• See Figure 24
1. Pull the starter rope out as far as it will come and hold the drum with
your finger to prevent the rope from rewinding.
wise to release spring tension.
3. With the rope and spring fully stretched and the drum turned all the way,
remove the drum securing bolt
4. Remove the drive plate, pawl, drive pawl springs and drive plate
spring.
5. Remove the drum by lifting it gently from the housing.
~11 is advisable to wear heavy gloves while removing the spring lo pre-
vent your hands from being cul by the sharp spring steel.
**CAUTION
come loose, ii may cause serious damage or personal injury. Take
Apply
6. Carefully remove the coil spring from the starter case. grease
here
• See Figure 25
Remove any trace of corrosion and wipe all metal parts with an oil dampened
cloth to prevent future corrosion.
Inspect the rope. Replace the rope if it appears to be weak or frayed. If the 0500AG20
or burrs. Remove the rough edges or burrs with a file and polish the surface Fig. 25 Lubricate the starter assembly al the following locations-
until it is smooth. DT20 and DT25

Inspect the starter return spring end hooks. Replace the spring if it is weak,
corroded or cracked. Inspect the inside surface of the starter case and drum for
ASSEMBLY
1. Position the coil spring in the starter case, feeding the outer portion of
the spring into the case first and positioning the remainder in the case gradu-
~~ ~ .
/..
I
**CAUTION \
0500AG24
Fig. 26 Use the adjusting nut to adjust the wire length so that the
engaged. If resistance is not felt, the spring may not be engaged properly. If this upper matchmark (B) on the recoil starter aligns with the slit (A) of
is the case, insert a rod into the hole on the drum and guide the spring end into the stopper arm when in neutral and falls between the lower marks
engagement with the drum. (C and D) when in forward or reverse
4. Install the washer, drive pawl and plate. Ensure the tongue on the drive
pawl is properly positioned into the space between the pilot shaft springs on the
plate. 5. Remove the drum with the starter rope still attached. Make sure the
5. Secure the drum in place by tightening the bolt securely. starter spring remains in the starter case.
6. Attach the pull rope in to the notch on the drum and turn the drum coun- 6. Remove the rope from the drum.
terclockwise 3-4 rotations.
,..It is advisable to wear heavy gloves while removing the spring to pre-
7. Remove the rope from the notch and gently wind it in under the force of
vent your hands from being cut by the sharp spring steel.
the spring to take it up into the drum.
DT25C, DT30C, DT35C and DT40C
1. Remove the engine cover fasteners and lift off the engine covers.
2. Disconnect the neutral start interlock cable from the throttle limiter.
from the powerhead.
To install:
5. lnstal I the engine covers and secure them with the cover fasteners.
6. Connect the neutral start cable and adjust it to specification.
the ratcheting mechanism and the neutral starter interlock.
ADJUSTMENT
• See Figure 26
1. Place the gear selector lever in the NEUTRAL position.
2. Using the adjusting nut to adjust the wire length so that the upper match-
mark on the recoil starter aligns with the slit of the stopper arm.
3. Place the gear selector lever in the FORWARD or REVERSE position.
4. The slit on the stopper arm should align between the middle and lower
matchmark on the recoil starter.
5. Pull the starter knob several times with the gear selector in the FOR-
WARD or REVERSE positions and make sure the rope cannot be pulled. CD Neutral Start Interlock (NSI) cable
@ Stopper arm
DISASSEMBLY @ Stopper lever
©Spring
• See Figure 27 @ Sheave drum
®Grip assy
1. Invert the starter case and remove the cotter pin, washer, stopper arm, CJ) Drive pawl
spring and stopper lever. @Plate
2. Hook the rope on the notch of the drum and gently rotate the drum clock- 0500AG23
wise to release spring tension. Fig. 27 Exploded view of the starter assembly- DT25C, DT30C,
3. Remove the drum attaching bolt and drive plate. DT35C and DT40C
4. Remove the drive pawl and its spring from the drum.

**CAUTION Apply grease
here
come loose, it may cause serious damage or personal injury. Take
• See Figure 28
Inspect the rope. Replace the rope if it appears to be weak or frayed. If the
Apply
until it is smooth. grease
Inspect the starter return spring end hooks. Replace the spring if it is weak, here
corroded or cracked. Inspect the inside surface of the starter case and drum for
ASSEMBLY
1. Position the coil spring in the starter case, feeding the outer portion of the
spring into the case first and positioning the remainder in the case gradually.
**CAUTION
0500AG25
2. Lubricate the spring and center bushing with waterproof grease. Fig. 28 Exploded view of the starter assembly- DT25C, DT30C,
3. Place the bent end of the spring into the groove on the drum. DT35C and DT40C
engaged. If resistance is not felt, the spring may not be engaged properly.
5. Insert the shorter bent end of the drive pawl spring into the drum hole
8. Install the cotter pin, washer, stopper arm, spring and stopper lever on
and then hook the longer bent end on the drive pawl groove. Turn the drive pawl
the starter case.
clockwise to ensure the assembly is installed properly.
9. Wind the rope around the drum 2.5 times counterclockwise and hook the
6. Install the drive pawl and its spring on the drum.
rope in to the notch on the drum. Then, rotate the drum 4 turns counterclock-
7. Install the drum drive plate and attaching bolt. Tighten the attaching bolt
wise and wind the rope around the drum.
securely.
BENDIX TYPE STARTER
DT6 and OTB

1. Pull the starter grip and hold the starter rope fully extended.
2. Untie the knot and remove the starter grip.
3. Remove the engine cover fasteners and lift off the engine cover.
from the powerhead.
To install:
7. Install the starter grip.
8. Pull the starter knob several times and check for the proper operation.
DISASSEMBLY
• See Figure 29 0500AG26
1. Drive out the starter pin with a punch to free the starter pinion. Fig. 29 Exploded view of the starter assembly-DT6 and OTB
2. Remove the starter clip using snapring pliers.

3. Cover the starter drum with a shop rag to prevent the recoil spring from
unreeling.
4. Remove the starter drum from the assembly.
~It is advisable to wear heavy gloves while removing the spring to pre-
**CAUTION
The recoil spring is under high tension. If the spring should come
loose, it may cause serious damage or personal injury. Take all
5. Remove the recoil spring.
Clean all components and then blow them dry using compressed air. A. Spring end B. Starter pawl
Remove any trace of corrosion and wipe all metal parts with an oil dampened 0500AG28
cloth to prevent future corrosion. Fig. 31 Match the pawl of the recoil spring to the pawl on the starter
Inspect the rope. Replace the rope if it appears to be weak or frayed. If the reel
until it is smooth. Inspect the starter return spring end hooks. Replace the DT20 and DT25
spring if it is weak, corroded or cracked. Inspect the inside surface of the starter
case and drum for grooves or roughness. Grooves may cause erratic rewinding
of the starter rope. REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
Inspect and lubricate the bendix mechanism and check for freedom of move-
ment 1. Pull the starter grip and hold the starter rope fully extended.
2. Untie the knot and remove the starter grip.
ASSEMBLY 3. Remove the engine cover fasteners and lift off the engine cover.
• See Figures 30 and 31 from the powerhead.
To install:
1. Install the recoil spring in the starter housing by winding it clockwise. 5. Place the recoil starter assembly on the powerhead and tighten the
Insert the tip of the spring into the notch provided in the starter housing. attaching nuts securely.
2. Apply waterproof grease to lubricate the spring and prevent it from rust- 6. Install the engine cover.
ing. 7. Install the starter grip.
3. Pull out the starter rope through the notch provided in the recoil starter 8. Pull the starter knob several times and check for the proper operation.
and wind the rope around two or three times in a clockwise direction. Keep the
rope snugly wound up inside the starter reel. DISASSEMBLY
4. Inside the starter housing, match the pawl of the recoil spring to the
pawl on the starter reel. • See Figure 32
5. Install the starter drum in the housing and secure with the circlip.
6. Secure the pinion in place by driving the starter pin in with a punch. 1. Remove the bolt holding the starter pinion gear in place.
7. Install the spring on the starter drum shaft 2. Drive out the starter pin with a punch to free the starter pinion.
8. Pull out the starter rope through the notch provided in the starter drum
and wind the rope all the way into the starter drum in a clockwise direction.
9. Pass the free end of the rope through the hole provided in the front part
of the engine lower cover and attach the starter grip to the rope.
10. Install the recoil starter assembly on the engine, tightening the mounting
bolts securely.
11. Pull the starter knob several times and check for the proper operation.
@
®
A. Tip of spring B. Notch on starter

0500AG27
Fig. 30 Insert the tip of the spring into the notch provided in the
starter housing Fig. 32 Exploded view of the starter assembly- DT20 and DT25

3. Remove the starter clip using snapring pliers.
4. Cover the starter drum with a shop rag to prevent the recoil spring from
unreeling.
5. Remove the starter drum from the assembly.
~rt is advisable to wear heavy gloves while removing the spring to pre-
**CAUTION
The recoil spring is under high tension. If the spring should come
loose, it may cause serious damage or personal injury. Take all
6. Remove the recoil spring.
• See Figure 33
Inspect the rope. Replace the rope if it appears to be weak or frayed. If the
or burrs. Remove the rough edges or burrs with a file and polish the surface Apply
until it is smooth. grease
Inspect the starter return spring end hooks. Replace the spring if it is weak, here
corroded or cracked. Inspect the inside surface of the starter case and drum
for grooves or roughness. Grooves may cause erratic rewinding of the starter
rope.
Inspect and lubricate the bendix mechanism and check for freedom of move-
ment.
ASSEMBLY
0500AG29
• See Figure 34 Fig. 33 Apply waterproof grease to the following components-DT20
1. Install the recoil spring in the starter housing by winding it clock- amd DT25
wise. Insert the tip of the spring into the notch provided in the starter hous-
ing.
2. Apply waterproof grease to lubricate the spring and prevent it from rust-
ing.
3. Pull out the starter rope through the notch provided in the recoil starter
and wind the rope around two or three times in a clockwise direction. Keep the @
rope snugly wound up inside the starter reel.
4. Inside the starter housing, match the pawl of the recoil spring to the
pawl on the starter reel.
5. Install the starter drum in the housing and secure with the circlip.
6. Secure the pinion in place by driving the starter pin in with a punch.
7. Install the spring on the starter drum shaft.
8. Pull out the starter rope through the notch provided in the starter ®
drum and wind the rope all the way into the starter drum in a clockwise
direction. A. Pawl on recoil starter B. Pawl on starter case
9. Pass the free end of the rope through the hole provided in the front part 0500AG31
of the engine lower cover and attach the starter grip to the rope. Fig. 34 Match the pawl of the recoil spring to the pawl on the starter
10. Pull the starter knob several times and check for the proper operation. reel

GLOSSARY 11-13
GLOSSARY
Understanding your marine mechanic is as important as understanding BLOCK: See Cylinder Block.
your outboard. Most boaters know about their boats, but many boaters have
difficulty understanding engine terminology. Talking the language of out- BORE: Diameter of a cylinder.
boards makes it easier to effectively communicate with professional
mechanics. It isn't necessary (or recommended) that you diagnose the BTDC: Before Top Dead Center.
problem for them, but it will save them time, and you money, if you can
accurately describe what is happening. It will also help you to know why BUSHING: A liner, usually removable, for a bearing; an anti-friction liner
your boat does what it is doing, and what repairs were made. used in place of a bearing.
AFTER TOP DEAD CENTER (ATDC): The point after the piston reaches CARBON MONOXIDE (CO): A colorless, odorless gas given off as a nor-
the top of its travel on the compression stroke. mal byproduct of combustion. It is poisonous and extremely dangerous in
confined areas, building up slowly to toxic levels without warning if ade-
AIR/FUEL RATIO: The ratio of air-to-fuel, by weight, drawn into the engine. quate ventilation is not available.
ALTERNATING CURRENT (AC): Electric current that flows first in one CHECK VALVE: Any one-way valve installed to permit the flow of air, fuel
direction, then in the opposite direction, continually reversing flow. or vacuum in one direction only.
ALTERNATOR: A device which produces AC (alternating current) which is CIRCLIP: A split steel snapring that fits into a groove to hold various parts
converted to DC (direct current) to charge the battery. in place.
AMMETER: An instrument, calibrated in amperes, used to measure the CIRCUIT BREAKER: A switch which protects an electrical circuit from
flow of an electrical current in a circuit. Ammeters are always connected in overload by opening the circuit when the current flow exceeds a pre-deter-
series with the circuit being tested. mined level. Some circuit breakers must be reset manually, while most
reset automatically.
AMP/HR. RATING (BATTERY): Measurement of the ability of a battery
to deliver a stated amount of current for a stated period of time. The higher CIRCUIT: Any unbroken path through which an electrical current can flow.
the amp/hr. rating, the better the battery. Also used to describe fuel flow in some instances.
AMPERE: The rate of flow of electrical current present when one volt of COMBUSTION CHAMBER: The part of the engine in the cylinder head
electrical pressure is applied against one ohm of electrical resistance. where combustion takes place.
ARMATURE: A laminated, soft iron core wrapped by a wire that converts COMPRESSION CHECK: A test involving cranking the engine with a spe-
electrical energy to mechanical energy as in a motor or relay. When rotated cial high pressure gauge connected to an individual cylinder. Individual
in a magnetic field, it changes mechanical energy into electrical energy as cylinder pressure as well as pressure variance across cylinders is used to
in a generator. determine general operating condition of the engine.
ATDC: After Top Dead Center. COMPRESSION RATIO: The ratio of the volume between the piston and
cylinder head when the piston is at the bottom of its stroke (bottom dead
ATMOSPHERIC PRESSURE: The pressure on the Earth's surface caused center) and when the piston is at the top of its stroke (top dead center).
by the weight of the air in the atmosphere. At sea level, this pressure is
14.7 psi at 32°F (101 kPa at 0°C). CONDUCTOR: Any material through which an electrical current can be
transmitted easily.
ATOMIZATION: The breaking down of a liquid into a fine mist that can be
suspended in air. CONNECTING ROD: The connecting link between the crankshaft and piston.
AXIAL PLAY: Movement parallel to a shaft or bearing bore. CONTINUITY: Continuous or complete circuit. Can be checked with an
ohmmeter.
BACKFIRE: The sudden combustion of gases in the intake or exhaust sys-
tem that results in a loud explosion. CRANKCASE: The lower part of an engine in which the crankshaft and
related parts operate.
BACKLASH: The clearance or play between two parts, such as meshed gears.
CRANKSHAFT: Engine component (connected to pistons by connecting
BALL BEARING: A bearing made up of hardened inner and outer races rods) which converts the reciprocating (up and down) motion of pistons to
between which hardened steel balls roll. rotary motion used to turn the driveshaft.
BATTERY: A direct current electrical storage unit, consisting of the basic CYLINDER HEAD: The detachable portion of the engine, usually fastened
active materials of lead and sulfuric acid, which converts chemical energy to the top of the cylinder block and containing all or most of the combus-
into electrical energy. Used to provide current for the operation of the starter tion chambers.
as well as other equipment, such as the radio, lighting, etc.
CYLINDER: In an engine, the round hole in the engine block in which the
BEARING: A friction reducing, supportive device usually located between a piston(s) ride.
stationary part and a moving part
DETONATION: An unwanted explosion of the air/fuel mixture in the com-
BEFORE TOP DEAD CENTER (BTDC): The point just before the piston bustion chamber caused by excess heat and compression, advanced tim-
reaches the top of its travel on the compression stroke. ing, or an overly lean mixture. Also referred to as "ping".

11-14 GLOSSARY
DIAPHRAGM: A thin, flexible wall separating two cavities, such as in a HORSEPOWER: A measurement of the amount of work; one horsepower
vacuum advance unit. is the amount of work necessary to lift 33,000 lbs. one foot in one minute.
Brake horsepower (bhp) is the horsepower delivered by an engine on a
DIGITAL VOLT OHMMETER: An electronic diagnostic tool used to mea- dynamometer. Net horsepower is the power remaining (measured at the fly-
sure voltage, ohms and amps as well as several other functions, with the wheel of the engine) that can be used to power the vessel after power is
readings displayed on a digital screen in tenths, hundredths and thou- consumed through friction and running the engine accessories (water
sandths. pump, alternator, fan etc.)
DIODE: An electrical device that will allow current to flow in one direction HYDROCARBON (HC): Any chemical compound made up of hydrogen
only. and carbon. A major pollutant formed by the engine as a by-product of
combustion.
DIRECT CURRENT (DC): Electrical current that flows in one direction
only. HYDROMETER: An instrument used to measure the specific gravity of a
solution.
DISPLACEMENT: The total volume of air that is displaced by all pistons
as the engine turns through one complete revolution. IMPELLER: The portion of the water pump which provides the propulsion
for the coolant to circulate it through the system
DVOM: Digital volt ohmmeter
INCH POUND (inch lbs.; sometimes in. lb. or in. lbs.): One twelfth
ELECTROLYTE: A solution of water and sulfuric acid used to activate the of a foot pound.
battery. Electrolyte is extremely corrosive.
INJECTOR: A device which receives metered fuel under relatively low
END-PLAY: The measured amount of axial movement in a shaft. pressure and is activated to inject the fuel into the engine under relatively
high pressure at a predetermined time.
ENGINE BLOCK: The basic engine casting containing the cylinders, the
crankshaft main bearings, as well as machined surfaces for the mounting of INTAKE MANIFOLD: A casting of passages or pipes used to conduct air
other components such as the cylinder head, oil pan, transmission, etc .. or a fuel/air mixture to the cylinders.
FEELER GAUGE: A blade, usually metal, of precisely predetermined thick- INTAKE SILENCER: An assembly consisting of a housing, and sometimes
ness, used to measure the clearance between two parts. a filter. The filter element is made up of a porous paper or a wire mesh
screening, and is designed to prevent airborne particles from entering the
FIRING ORDER: The order in which combustion occurs in the cylinders engine. Also see Air Cleaner.
of an engine.
JOURNAL: The bearing surface within which a shaft operates.
FLAME FRONT: The term used to describe certain aspects of the fuel
explosion in the cylinders. The flame front should move in a controlled pat- JUMPER CABLES: Two heavy duty wires with large alligator clips used to
tern across the cylinder, rather than simply exploding immediately. provide power from a charged battery to a discharged battery.
FLAT SPOT: A point during acceleration when the engine seems to lose JUMPSTART: Utilizing one sufficiently charged battery to start the engine
power for an instant. of another vessel with a discharged battery by the use of jumper cables.
FLYWHEEL: A heavy disc of metal attached to the rear of the crankshaft. It KNOCK: Noise which results from the spontaneous ignition of a portion of
smoothes the firing impulses of the engine and keeps the crankshaft turn- the air-fuel mixture in the engine cylinder.
ing during periods when no firing takes place. The starter also engages the
flywheel to start the engine. LITHIUM-BASE GREASE: Bearing grease using lithium as a base. Not
compatible with sodium-base grease.
FOOT POUND (ft. lbs. or sometimes, ft. lb.): The amount of energy
or work needed to raise an item weighing one pound, a distance of one foot. LOCK RING: See Circlip or Snapring
FUEL FILTER: A component of the fuel system containing a porous paper MANIFOLD: A casting of passages or set of pipes which connect the
element used to prevent any impurities from entering the engine through cylinders to an inlet or outlet source.
the fuel system. It usually takes the form of a canister-like housing,
mounted in-line with the fuel hose, located anywhere on a vessel between MISFIRE: Condition occurring when the fuel mixture in a cylinder fails to
the fuel tank and engine. ignite, causing the engine to run roughly.
FUEL INJECTION: A system that sprays fuel into the cylinder through MULTI-WEIGHT: Type of oil that provides adequate lubrication at both
nozzles. The amount of fuel can be more precisely controlled with fuel high and low temperatures.
injection.
NEEDLE BEARING: A bearing which consists of a number (usually a
FUSE: A protective device in a circuit which prevents circuit overload by large number) of long, thin rollers.
breaking the circuit when a specific amperage is present. The device is con-
structed around a strip or wire of a lower amperage rating than the circuit it NITROGEN OXIDE (NOx): One of the three basic pollutants found in the
is designed to protect. When an amperage higher than that stamped on the exhaust emission of an internal combustion engine. The amount of NOx
fuse is present in the circuit, the strip or wire melts, opening the circuit. usually varies in an inverse proportion to the amount of HC and CO.
FUSIBLE LINK: A piece of wire in a wiring harness that performs the same OEM: Original Equipment Manufactured. OEM equipment is that furnished
job as a fuse. If overloaded, the fusible link will melt and interrupt the circuit. standard by the manufacturer.

GLOSSARY 11-15
OHM: The unit used to measure the resistance of conductor-to-electrical ambient pressures and temperatures. Usually electronic in nature and
flow. One ohm is the amount of resistance that limits current flow to one designed to send a voltage signal to an on-board computer, some sensors
ampere in a circuit with one volt of pressure. may operate as a simple on/off switch or they may provide a variable voltage
signal (like a potentiometer) as conditions or measured parameters change.
OHMMETER: An instrument used for measuring the resistance, in ohms,
in an electrical circuit. SHIM: Spacers of precise, predetermined thickness used between parts to
establish a proper working relationship.
OXIDES OF NITROGEN: See nitrogen oxide (NOx).
SHORT CIRCUIT: An electrical malfunction where current takes the
PING: A metallic rattling sound produced by the engine during accelera- path of least resistance to ground (usually through damaged insulation).
tion. It is usually due to incorrect timing or a poor grade of fuel. Current flow is excessive from low resistance resulting in a blown fuse.
PISTON RING: An open-ended ring which fits into a groove on the outer SLUDGE: Thick, black deposits in engine formed from dirt, oil, water, etc.
diameter of the piston. Its chief function is to form a seal between the pis- It is usually formed in engines when oil changes are neglected.
ton and cylinder wall. Most pistons have three rings: two for compression
sealing; one for oil sealing. SNAP RING: A circular retaining clip used inside or outside a shaft or part
to secure a shaft, such as a floating wrist pin.
POLARITY: Indication (positive or negative) of the two poles of a battery.
SOLENOID: An electrically operated, magnetic switching device.
PPM: Parts per million; unit used to measure exhaust emissions.
SPECIFIC GRAVITY (BATTERY): The relative weight of liquid (battery
PREIGNITION: Early ignition of fuel in the cylinder, sometimes due to electrolyte) as compared to the weight of an equal volume of water.
glowing carbon deposits in the combustion chamber.
SPLINES: Ridges machined or cast onto the outer diameter of a shaft or
PRELOAD: A predetermined load placed on a bearing during assembly or inner diameter of a bore to enable parts to mate without rotation.
by adjustment.
STARTER: A high-torque electric motor used for the purpose of starting
PRESS FIT: The mating of two parts under pressure, due to the inner the engine, typically through a high ratio geared drive connected to the fly-
diameter of one being smaller than the outer diameter of the other, or vice wheel ring gear.
versa; an interference fit.
STROKE: The distance the piston travels from bottom dead center to top
PSI: Pounds per square inch; a measurement of pressure. dead center.
RACE: The surface on the inner or outer ring of a bearing on which the TACHOMETER: A device used to measure the rotary speed of an engine,
balls, needles or rollers move. shaft, gear, etc., usually in rotations per minute.
REAR MAIN OIL SEAL: A synthetic or rope-type seal that prevents TDC: Top dead center. The exact top of the piston's stroke.
oil from leaking out of the engine past the rear main crankshaft bear-
ing. THERMOSTAT: A valve, located in the cooling system of an engine,
which is closed when cold and opens gradually in response to engine
RECTIFIER: A device (used primarily in alternators) that permits electrical heating, controlling the temperature of the coolant and rate of coolant flow.
current to flow in one direction only.
TOP DEAD CENTER (TDC): The point at which the piston reaches the
REGULATOR: A device which maintains the amperage and/or voltage lev- top of its travel on the compression stroke.
els of a circuit at predetermined values.
TORQUE: Measurement of turning or twisting force, expressed as foot-
RELAY: A switch which autoll]atically opens and/or closes a circuit. pounds or inch-pounds.
RESISTANCE: The opposition to the flow of current through a circuit or TUNE-UP: A regular maintenance function, usually associated with the
electrical device, and is measured in ohms. Resistance is equal to the volt- replacement and adjustment of parts and components in the electrical and
age divided by the amperage. fuel systems of a engine for the purpose of attaining optimum performance.
RESISTOR: A device, usually made of wire, which offers a preset amount VISCOSITY: The ability of a fluid to flow. The lower the viscosity rating,
of resistance in an electrical circuit. the easier the fluid will flow. 10 weight motor oil will flow much easier than
40 weight motor oil.
ROCKER ARM: A lever which rotates around a shaft pushing down (open-
ing) the valve with an end when the other end is pushed up by the pushrod. VOLT: Unit used to measure the force or pressure of electricity. It is defined
Spring pressure will later close the valve. as the pressure
ROLLER BEARING: A bearing made up of hardened inner and outer races VOLTAGE REGULATOR: A device that controls the current output of the
between which hardened steel rollers move. alternator or generator.
RPM: Revolutions per minute (usually indicates engine speed). VOLTMETER: An instrument used for measuring electrical force in units
called volts. Voltmeters are always connected parallel with the circuit being
SENDING UNIT: A mechanical, electrical, hydraulic or electromagnetic tested.
device which transmits information to a gauge.
WATER PUMP: Component of the cooling system that mounts on the
SENSOR: Any device designed to measure engine operating conditions or engine, circulating the coolant under pressure.

ADDITIONAL INPUTS 4-48
AIR/OIL MIXING VALVE 6-7
AIR TEMPERATURE SENSOR 4-39
DESCRIPTION &OPERATION 4-39
REMOVAL &INSTALLATION 4-39
TESTING 4-39
ALL OTHER MODELS 4-25
INSPECTION &CLEANING 4-26
REED &REED STOP REPLACEMENT 4-26
ALTERNATOR (STATOR) 5-40
TESTING 5-40
ATMOSPHERIC PRESSURE SENSOR 4-39
DESCRIPTION & OPERATION 4-39
TESTING 4-39
AVOIDING THE MOST COMMON MISTAKES 1-3
AVOIDING TROUBLE 1-2
BASIC ELECTRICAL THEORY 5-2
HOW ELECTRICITY WORKS: THE WATER ANALOGY 5-2
OHM'S LAW 5-2
BATTERY (BOAT MAINTENANCE) 3-9
BATTERY &CHARGING SAFETY PRECAUTIONS 3-11
BATTERY CHARGERS 3-11
BATTERY TERMINALS 3-11
CHECKING SPECIFIC GRAVITY 3-10
CLEANING 3-10
REPLACING BATTERY CABLES 3-12
BATTERY (CHARGING CIRCUIT) 5-41
BATTERY CABLES 5-45
BATTERY CHARGERS 5-44
BATTERY CONSTRUCTION 5-41
BATTERY LOCATION 5-42
BATTERY RATINGS 5-42
BATTERY SERVICE 5-42
BATTERY STORAGE 5-45
BATTERY TERMINALS 5-44
MARINE BATTERIES 5-41
SAFETY PRECAUTIONS 5-44
BEARINGS 7-44
INSPECTION 7-45
BENDIX TYPE STARTER 11-10
BLEEDING THE OIL INJECTION SYSTEM 6-3
PROCEDURE 6-3
BOAT MAINTENANCE 3-8
BOATING SAFETY 1-4
BOLTS, NUTS AND OTHER THREADED RETAINERS 2-14
BREAKER POINTS 5-8
POINT GAP ADJUSTMENT -5-8
TESTING 5-9
BREAKER POINTS IGNITION (MAGNETO IGNITION) 5-7
BUY OR REBUILD? 7-33
CAN YOU DO IT? 1-2
CAPACITIES 3-2
CAPACITOR DISCHARGE IGNITION (CDI) SYSTEM 5-11
CARBURETION 4-3
BASIC FUNCTIONS 4-5
CARBURETOR CIRCUITS 4-4
DUAL-THROAT CARBURETORS 4-6
REMOVING FUEL FROM THE SYSTEM 4-6
CARBURETOR IDLE AIR SCREW SPECIFICATION 3-33
CARBURETOR SERVICE 4-11
CDI UNIT 5-28
DESCRIPTION &OPERATION 5-28
TESTING 5-28
CHARGING CIRCUIT 5-39

MASTER INDEX 11-17
CHEMICALS 2-3 DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION (STARTING CIRCUIT) 5-45
CLEANERS 2-4 DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION (TILLER HANDLE) 10-7
LUBRICANTS & PENETRANTS 2-3 DETERMINING POWERHEAD CONDITION 7-32
SEALANTS 2-4 PRIMARY COMPRESSION TEST 7-32
CIRCUIT/POSITION 4-7 SECONDARY COMPRESSION TEST 7-32
COMBUSTION 4-3 DIAPHRAGM TYPE FUEL PUMPS 4-27
ABNORMAL COMBUSTION 4-3 DESCRIPTION & OPERATION 4-27
FACTORS AFFECTING COMBUSTION 4-3 OVERHAUL 4-27
COMBUSTION RELATED PISTON FAILURES 4-10 REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 4-27
COMPRESSION CHECK 3-12 DIRECTIONS AND LOCATIONS 1-2
CHECKING COMPRESSION 3-12 DO'S 1-12
LOW COMPRESSION 3-13 DON'TS 1-12
CONDENSER 5-10 DT2 AND DT2.2 (CARBURETOR SERVICE) 4-11
DESCRIPTION & OPERATION 5-10 ASSEMBLY 4-12
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 5-10 CLEANING & INSPECTION 4-12
TESTING 5-10 DISASSEMBLY 4-11
CONNECTING RODS 7-41 REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 4-11
GENERAL INFORMATION 7-41 DT2 AND DT2.2 (FORWARD ONLY) (LOWER UNIT OVERHAUL) 8-6
INSPECTION 7-42 ASSEMBLY 8-8
CONVERSION FACTORS 2-16 CLEANING & INSPECTION 8-7
COOLING SYSTEM 6-11 DISASSEMBLY 8-6
COURTESY MARINE EXAMINATIONS 1-11 SHIMMING PROCEDURE 8-9
CRANKSHAFT 7-43 DT2 AND DT2.2 (TUNE-UP) 3-18
GENERAL INFORMATION 7-43 IDLE SPEED 3-19
INSPECTION 7-44 IGNITION TIMING 3-18
CYLINDER BLOCK AND HEAD 7-35 DT2, DT2.2 (REED VALVE SERVICE) 4-25
GENERAL INFORMATION 7-35 REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 4-25
INSPECTION 7-36 DT2, DT2.2 AND DT4 (OVERHEAD TYPE STARTER) 11-2
CYLINDER BORES 7-36 ASSEMBLY 11-3
GENERAL INFORMATION 7-36 CLEANING & INSPECTION 11-3
INSPECTION 7-37 DISASSEMBLY 11-2
REFINISHING 7-37 REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 11-2
CYLINDER WALL TEMPERATURE SENSOR 4-36 OT 4 (CARBURETOR SERVICE) 4-13
DESCRIPTION & OPERATION 4-36 ASSEMBLY 4-14
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 4-39 CLEANING & INSPECTION 4-13
TESTING 4-38 DISASSEMBLY 4-13
DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION (CAPACITOR DISCHARGE IGNITION (COi) REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 4-13
SYSTEM) 5-11 DT4 (LOWER UNIT OVERHAUL) 8-9
SINGLE-CYLINDER IGNITION 5-11 ASSEMBLY 8-10
SUZUKI PEI IGNITION 5-12 CLEANING & INSPECTION 8-9
DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION (CHARGING CIRCUIT) 5-39 DISASSEMBLY 8-9
PRECAUTIONS 5-39 SHIMMING PROCEDURE 8-11
SINGLE PHASE CHARGING SYSTEM 5-39 OT4 (TUNE-UP) 3-19
THREE-PHASE CHARGING SYSTEM 5-39 IDLE SPEED 3-19
DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION (COOLING SYSTEM) 6-11 IGNITION TIMING 3-19
THERMOSTAT 6-12 DT6AND1988 DT8 (CARBURETOR SERVICE) 4-14
WATER PUMP 6-11 ASSEMBLY 4-15
DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION-(ELECTRONIC FUEL CLEANING & INSPECTION 4-15
INJECTION) 4-32 DISASSEMBLY 4-14
FUEL INJECTION BASICS 4-32 REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 4-14
SUZUKI ELECTRONIC FUEL INJECTION 4-32 DT6 AND DT8 (B~NDIX TYPE STARTER) 11-10
DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION (ELECTRONIC IGNITION) 5-38 ASSEMBLY 11-11
DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION (GAS ASSISTED TILT) 9-2 CLEANING &INSPECTION 11-11
DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION (HAND REWIND STARTER) 11-2 DISASSEMBLY 11-10
DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION (JET DRIVE) 8-51 REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 11-10
DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION (MANUAL TILT) 9-2 DT6 AND DT8 (LOWER UNIT OVERHAUL) 8-11
SERVICING 9-2 ASSEMBLY 8-14
DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION (OIL INJECTION SYSTEM) 6-2 DISASSEMBLY 8-11
AIR/OIL MIXING VALVE 6-2 INSPECTION & CLEANING 8-13
OIL PUMP 6-2 SHIMMING PROCEDURE 8-14
DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION (OIL INJECTION WARNING DT6 AND DT8 (OVERHEAD TYPE STARTER) 11-4
SYSTEMS) 6-14 ASSEMBLY 11-5
LOWOILLEVEL 6-14 CLEANING & INSPECTION 11-4
OIL FLOW 6-14 DISASSEMBLY 11-4
DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION (OVERHEAT WARNING SYSTEM) 6-17 REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 11-4
DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION (POWER TILT) 9-3 DT6 AND DT8 (TUNE-UP) 3-19
DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION (POWER TRIM/TILT) 9-6 IDLE SPEED 3-20
DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION (REMOTE CONTROL BOX) 10-2 IGNITION TIMING 3-19

11-18 MASTER INDEX
DT9.9 AND DT15 (LOWER UNIT OVERHAUL) 8-14 ASSEMBLY 8-38
ASSEMBLY 8-16 CLEANING & INSPECTION 8-36
CLEANING & INSPECTION 8-15 DISASSEMBLY 8-35
DISSASSEMBLY 8-14 SHIMMING PROCEDURE 8-39
SHIMMING PROCEDURE 8-17 DT75 AND DT85 (TUNE-UP) 3-29
DT9.9 AND DT15 (OVERHEAD TYPE STARTER) 11-6 CARBURETOR LINKAGE ADJUSTMENT 3-29
ADJUSTMENT 11-6 IDLE SPEED 3-29
ASSEMBLY 11-7 IGNITION TIMING 3-29
CLEANING & INSPECTION 11-7 DT90 AND DT100 (TUNE-UP) 3-30
DISASSEMBLY 11-7 CARBURETOR LINKAGE ADJUSTMENT 3-30
DT9.9 AND DT15 (TUNE-UP) 3-21 IGNITION TIMING 3-30
IDLE SPEED 3-21 DT115 AND DT140 (LOWER UNIT OVERHAUL) 8-44
IGNITION TIMING 3-21 ASSEMBLY 8-45
DT9.9, DT15AND1989-97 OTB (CARBURETOR SERVICE) 4-15 CLEANING & INSPECTION 8-44
ASSEMBLY 4-17 DISASSEMBLY 8-44
CLEANING & INSPECTION 4-16 SHIMMING PROCEDURE 8-45
DISASSEMBLY 4-16 DT115 AND DT140 (TUNE-UP) 3-30
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 4-15 CARBURETOR LINKAGE 3-31
DT20 AND DT25 (BENDIX TYPE STARTER) 11-11 IDLE SPEED 3-32
ASSEMBLY 11-12 IGNITION TIMING 3-30
CLEANING &INSPECTION 11-12 DT150, DT175, DT200 3-32
DISASSEMBLY 11-11 CARBURETOR LINKAGE 3-32
DT20 AND DT25 (OVERHEAD TYPE STARTER) 11-8 IGNITION TIMING 3-32
ASSEMBLY 11-9 ELECTRICAL COMPONENTS 5-2
CLEANING & INSPECTION 11-8 CONNECTORS 5-4
DISASSEMBLY 11-8 GROUND 5-3
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 11-8 LOAD 5-3
DT20, DT25 AND DT30 (LOWER UNIT OVERHAUL) 8-19 POWER SOURCE 5-2
ASSEMBLY 8-20 PROTECTIVE DEVICES 5-3
CLEANING & INSPECTION 8-20 SWITCHES & RELAYS 5-3
DISASSEMBLY 8-19 WIRING & HARNESSES 5-4
SHIMMING PROCEDURE 8-22 ELECTRICAL SYSTEM PRECAUTIONS 5-7
DT20, DT25 AND DT30 (TUNE-UP) 3-22 ELECTRONIC FUEL INJECTION 4-32
IDLE SPEED 3-22 ELECTRONIC IGNITION 5-38
IGNITION TIMING 3-22 EMERGENCY STOP SWITCH (REMOTE CONTROL BOX) 10-5
THROTTLE LINKAGE ADJUSTMENT 3-22 REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 10-5
DT20 TO DT85, DT115 AND DT140 (CARBURETOR SERVICE) 4-17 TESTING 10-5
ASSEMBLY 4-21 EMERGENCY STOP SWITCH (TILLER HANDLE) 10-10
CLEANING & INSPECTION 4-21 REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 10-10
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 4-19 ENGINE MAINTENANCE 3-2
DT25C, DT30C, DT35C AND DT40C (OVERHEAD TYPE STARTER) 11-9 ENGINE MECHANICAL 7-2
ADJUSTMENT 11-9 ENGINE REBUILDING SPECIFICATIONS 7-49
ASSEMBLY 11-10 ENGINE START SWITCH 10-10
CLEANING & INSPECTION 11-10 REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 10-10
DISASSEMBLY 11-9 - TESTING 10-10
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 11-9 ENGINE STOP SWITCH (REMOTE CONTROL BOX) 10-5
DT35 AND DT40 (LOWER UNIT OVERHAUL) 8-24 REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 10-5
ASSEMBLY 8-24 TESTING 10-5
CLEANING & INSPECTION 8-24 ENGINE STOP SWITCH (TILLER HANDLE) 10-10
DISASSEMBLY 8-24 REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 10-10
SHIMMING PROCEDURE 8-26 TESTING 10-10
DT35 AND OT40 (TUNE-UP) 3-23 EQUIPMENT NOT REQUIRED BUT RECOMMENDED 1-10
IDLE SPEED 3-25 ANCHORS 1-10
IGNITION TIMING 3-23 BAILING DEVICES 1-10
THROTTLE LINKAGE 3-26 FIRST AID KIT 1-10
DT55 AND DT65 (LOWER UNIT OVERHAUL) 8-28 SECOND MEANS OF PROPULSION 1-10
ASSEMBLY 8-31 TOOLS AND SPARE PARTS 1-11
CLEANING & INSPECTION 8-30 VHF-FM RADIO 1-11
DISASSEMBLY 8-28 FASTENERS, MEASUREMENTS AND CONVERSIONS 2-14
SHIMMING PROCEDURE 8-32 FIBERGLASS HULLS 3-8
DT55 AND DT65 (TUNE-UP) 3-26 FLYWHEEL 7-2
IDLE SPEED 3-26 INSPECTION 7-5
IGNITION TIMING 3-26 REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 7-2
THROTTLE LINKAGE 3-27 FUEL 4-2
DT75 AND DT85 (LOWER UNIT OVERHAUL) 8-35 ALCOHOL-BLENDED FUELS 4-2

MASTER INDEX 11-19
HIGH ALTITUDE OPERATION 4-2 CLEANING &INSPECTING 8-56
OCTANE RATING 4-2 DISASSEMBLY 8-56
RECOMMENDATIONS 4-2 REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 8-51
THE BOTTOM LINE WITH FUELS 4-2 LOWER UNIT 8-2
VAPOR PRESSURE AND ADDITIVES 4-2 LOWER UNIT (ENGINE MAINTENANCE) 3-3
FUEL AND COMBUSTION 4-2 DRAINING & FILLING 3-3
FUEL FILTER 3-4 OIL RECOMMENDATIONS 3-3
RELIEVING FUEL SYSTEM PRESSURE 3-5 LOWER UNIT OVERHAUL 8-6
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 3-5 LOWER UNIT-NO REVERSE GEAR 8-3
FUEL INJECTORS 4-45 REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 8-3
DESCRIPTION & OPERATION 4-45 LOWER UNIT-WITH REVERSE GEAR 8-3
TESTING 4-45 REMOVAL &INSTALLATION 8-3
FUEL LINE 4-9 MAINTENANCE OR REPAIR? 1-2
COMMON PROBLEMS 4-10 MANUAL TILT 9-2
FUEL PRESSURE REGULATOR 4-46 MEASURING TOOLS 2-12
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 4-47 DEPTH GAUGES 2-13
TESTING 4-46 DIAL INDICATORS 2-13
FUEL PUMP (FUEL SYSTEM) 4-6 MICROMETERS &CALIPERS 2-12
FUEL PUMP (TROUBLESHOOTING) 4-8 TELESCOPING GAUGES 2-13
FUEL PUMP SERVICE 4-27 MODEL IDENTIFICATION AND SERIAL NUMBERS 8-51
FUEL SYSTEM 4-3 NEUTRAL START SWITCH 10-2
FUEL SYSTEM (TROUBLESHOOTING) 4-7 REMOVAL &INSTALLATION 10-2
COMMON PROBLEMS 4-8 TESTING 10-2
LOGICAL TROUBLESHOOTING 4-7 OIL FLOW SENSOR 6-17
FUEL/WATER SEPARATOR 3-6 CLEANING & INSPECTION 6-17
GAS ASSIST DAMPER 9-2 REMOVAL &INSTALLATION 6-17
REMOVAL &INSTALLATION 9-2 TESTING 6-17
TESTING 9-2 OIL INJECTION SYSTEM 6-2
GAS ASSISTED TILT 9-2 OIL INJECTION WARNING SYSTEM 6-15
GEAR COUNTER COIL (ENGINE SPEED SENSOR) 4-45 OIL INJECTION WARNING SYSTEMS 6-14
DESCRIPTION &OPERATION 4-45 OIL LEVEL SENSOR 6-16
GENERAL ENGINE SPECIFICATIONS 3-38 TESTING 6-16
GENERAL INFORMATION (LOWER UNIT) 8-2 OIL LINES 6-6
HAND REWIND STARTER 11-2 OIL LINE CAUTIONS 6-6
HAND TOOLS 2-5 REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 6-6
ELECTRONIC TOOLS 2-10 OIL PUMP 6-5
GAUGES 2-11 REMOVAL &INSTALLATION 6-5
HAMMERS 2-9 OIL PUMP CONTROL ROD 6-8
OTHER COMMON TOOLS 2-10 ADJUSTMENT 6-8
PLIERS 2-9 OIL PUMP DISCHARGE RATE (OIL INJECTION) 6-8
SCREWDRIVERS 2-9 OIL PUMP DISCHARGE RATE (OIL INJECTION SYSTEM) 6-7
SOCKET SETS 2-5 ADJUSTMENT 6-8
SPECIAL TOOLS 2-10 TESTING 6-7
WRENCHES 2-8 OIL TANK 6-3
HIGH PRESSURE FUEL PUMP 4-47 CLEANING &INSPECTION 6-4
HOW TO USE THIS MANUAL 1-2 OVERHEAD TYPE STARTER 11-2
IGNITION AND ELECTRICAL WIRING DIAGRAMS 5-52 OVERHEAT SENSOR 6-19
IGNITION COIL (BREAKER POINTS IGNITION) 5-10 REMOVAL &INSTALLATION 6-19
DESCRIPTION & OPERATION 5-10 TESTING 6-19
REMOVAL &INSTALLATION 5-11 OVERHEAT WARNING SYSTEM 6-17
TESTING 5-11 OVERHEAT WARNING SYSTEM (OIL INJECTION) 6-18
IGNITION COILS (CAPACITOR DISCHARGE IGNITION PISTON PINS 7-39
SYSTEM) 5-25 GENERAL INFORMATION 7-39
DESCRIPTION &OPERATION 5-25 INSPECTION 7-39
REMOVAL &INSTALLATION 5-26 PISTON RINGS 7-40
TESTING 5-25 GENERAL INFORMATION 7-40
IGNITION SWITCH 10-6 INSPECTION 7-41
REMOVAL &INSTALLATION 10-6 PISTONS 7-37
TESTING 10-6 GENERAL INFORMATION 7-37
IGNITION SYSTEM 3-17 INSPECTION 7-38
INSIDE THE BOAT 3-8 POWER TILT 9-3
INTRODUCTION 3-12 POWER TRIM/TILT 9-6
JET DRIVE 8-51 POWERHEAD 7-5
JET DRIVE ASSEMBLY 8-51 DISASSEMBLY &ASSEMBLY 7-15
ADJUSTMENT 8-54 REMOVAL &INSTALLATION 7-5
ASSEMBLING 8-57 POWERHEAD OVERHAUL TIPS 7-33

11-20 MASTER INDEX
CAUTIONS 7-34 SPARK PLUGS 3-13
CLEANING 7-34 INSPECTION &GAPPING 3-15
REPAIRING DAMAGED THREADS 7-34 READING SPARK PLUGS 3-14
TOOLS 7-34 REMOVAL &INSTALLATION 3-14
POWERHEAD PREPARATION 7-35 SPARK PLUG HEAT RANGE 3-13
POWERHEAD RECONDITIONING 7-32 SPARK PLUG SERVICE 3-14
PROFESSIONAL HELP 1-2 SPECIFICATION CHARTS
PROPELLER (ENGINE MAINTENANCE) 3-7 CAPACITIES 3-2
PROPELLER (LOWER UNIT) 8-2 CARBURETOR IDLE AIR SCREW SPECIFICATION 3-33
REMOVAL &INSTALLATION 8-2 CIRCUIT/POSITION 4-7
PULSAR/CHARGING/GEAR COUNTER COILS 5-14 CONVERSION FACTORS 2-17
DESCRIPTION & OPERATION 5-14 ENGINE REBUILDING SPECIFICATIONS 7-49
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 5-20 GENERAL ENGINE SPECIFICATIONS 3-38
TESTING 5-15 OIL PUMP DISCHARGE RATE 6-8
PULSER COIL 4-45 SERIAL NUMBER IDENTIFICATION 3-43
DESCRIPTION & OPERATION 4-45 TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS 7-46
TESTING 4-45 TUNE UP SPECIFICATIONS CHARTS 3-34
PURCHASING PARTS 1-3 SPRING COMMISSIONING CHECKLIST 3-35
RECTIFIER 5-37 STANDARD AND METRIC MEASUREMENTS 2-15
DESCRIPTION & OPERATION 5-37 STARTER MOTOR 5-46
REMOVAL &INSTALLATION 5-38 DESCRIPTION & OPERATION 5-46
TESTING 5-37 OVERHAUL 5-49
REED VALVE SERVICE 4-25 REMOVAL &INSTALLATION 5-48
REGULATIONS FOR YOUR BOAT 1-4 TESTING 5-48
CAPACITY INFORMATION 1-4 STARTER MOTOR RELAY SWITCH 5-50
CERTIFICATE OF COMPLIANCE 1-4 DESCRIPTION & OPERATION 5-50
DOCUMENTING OF VESSELS 1-4 REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 5-51
HULL IDENTIFICATION NUMBER 1-4 TESTING 5-51
LENGTH OF BOATS 1-4 STARTING CIRCUIT 5-45
NUMBERING OF VESSELS 1-4 SYSTEM TESTING (BREAKER POINTS IGNITION) 5-8
REGISTRATION OF BOATS 1-4 SYSTEM TESTING (CAPACITOR DISCHARGE IGNITION
SALES AND TRANSFERS 1-4 SYSTEM) 5-14
VENTILATION 1-5 PROCEDURE 5-14
VENTILATION SYSTEMS 1-5 TEST EQUIPMENT 5-4
REGULATOR 5-38 JUMPER WIRES 5-4
DESCRIPTION & OPERATION 5-38 MULTIMETERS 5-5
REMOVAL &INSTALLATION 5-38 TEST LIGHTS 5-5
TESTING 5-38 TESTING 5-6
REMOTE CONTROL BOX 10-2 OPEN CIRCUITS 5-7
REMOTE CONTROL BOX (REMOTE CONTROL BOX) 10-2 RESISTANCE 5-6
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 10-2 SHORT CIRCUITS 5-7
REMOTE CONTROL CABLES 10-2 VOLTAGE 5-6
ADJUSTMENT 10-2 VOLTAGE DROP 5-6
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 10-2 THERMOSTAT 6-13
REQUIRED SAFETY EQUIPMENT 1-5 CLEANING &INSPECTION 6-14
FIRE EXTINGUISHERS 1-5 REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 6-13
PERSONAL FLOTATION DEVICES 1-7 THROTTLE CABLE 10-10
SOUND PRODUCING DEVICES 1-9 ADJUSTMENT 10-10
TYPES OF FIRES 1-5 REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 10-10
VISUAL DISTRESS SIGNALS 1-9 THROTTLE VALVE SENSOR 4-40
WARNING SYSTEM 1-7 ADJUSTMENT 4-42
SAFETY IN SERVICE 1-12 DESCRIPTION &OPERATION 4-40
SAFETY TOOLS 2-2 REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 4-45
EYE AND EAR PROTECTION 2-2 TESTING 4-40
WORK CLOTHES 2-3 TILLER HANDLE 10-7
WORK GLOVES 2-2 TILLER HANDLE (TILLER HANDLE) 10-8
SELF DIAGNOSTIC SYSTEM 4-48 REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 10-8
DESCRIPTION & OPERATION 4-48 TILT CYLINDER 9-5
DIAGNOSIS PROCEDURE 4-49 OVERHAUL 9-5
FAIL SAFE EMERGENCY BACKUP 4-49 REMOVAL &INSTALLATION 9-5
SERIAL NUMBER IDENTIFICATION (ENGINE MAINTENANCE) 3-2 TILT MOTOR AND PUMP 9-4
SERIAL NUMBER IDENTIFICATION (MAINTENANCE) 3-43 BLEEDING THE SYSTEM 9-4
SHIFTING PRINCIPLES 8-2 CHECKING FLUID LEVEL 9-4
COUNTERROTATING UNIT 8-2 OVERHAUL 9-5
STANDARD ROTATING UNIT 8-2 REMOVAL &INSTALLATION 9-5
SPARK PLUG WIRES 3-17 TESTING 9-5
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 3-17 TILT SWITCH 9-6
TESTING 3-17 TIMING AND SYNCHRONIZATION 3-17

MASTER INDEX 11-21
PREPARATION 3-17 TROUBLESHOOTING THE OIL INJECTION SYSTEM 6-2
SYNCHRONIZATION 3-17 TROUBLESHOOTING THE OIL INJECTION WARNING SYSTEM 6-15
TIMING 3-17 TROUBLESHOOTING THE OVERHEAT WARNING SYSTEM 6-17
TOOLS 2-5 TROUBLESHOOTING THE POWER TILT SYSTEM 9-4
TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT 2-2 TROUBLESHOOTING THE POWER TRIM/TILT SYSTEM 9-7
TORQUE 2-15 TROUBLESHOOTING THE REMOTE CONTROLS 10-2
TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS 7-46 TROUBLESHOOTING THE STARTING SYSTEM 5-46
TRIM TABS, ANODES AND LEAD WIRES 3-8 TROUBLESHOOTING THE TILLER HANDLE 10-8
TRIM/TILT & PIVOT POINTS 3-6 TUNE UP SPECIFICATIONS CHARTS 3-34
INSPECTION & LUBRICATION 3-6 TUNE-UP 3-12
TRIM/TILT CYLINDER 9-14 TUNE-UP SEQUENCE 3-12
ASSEMBLY 9-15 TWO-STROKE CYCLE 7-2
CLEANING & INSPECTION 9-15 2-STROKE OIL 3-2
DISASSEMBLY 9-15 FILLING 3-2
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 9-14 OIL RECOMMENDATIONS 3-2
TESTING 9-14 UNDERSTANDING AND TROUBLESHOOTING ELECTRICAL
TRIM/TILT MOTOR 9-9 SYSTEMS 5-2
ASSEMBLY 9-13 V4 & V6 POWERHEADS 4-22
CLEANING &INSPECTION 9-12 ASSEMBLY 4-25
DISASSEMBLY 9-11 CLEANING & INSPECTION 4-25
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 9-10 DISASSEMBLY 4-24
TESTING 9-9 FUEL LEVEL TEST 4-24
TRIM/TILT PUMP 9-8 REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 4-23
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 9-9 V4 AND V6 8-46
TESTING 9-8 ASSEMBLY 8-47
TRIM/TILTRELAY 9-15 CLEANING & INSPECTING 8-47
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 9-15 DISASSEMBLY 8-46
TESTING 9-15 SHIMMING PROCEDURE 8-50
TRIM/TILT SWITCH (POWER TRIM/TILT) 9-15 WARNING BUZZER 10-7
TRIM/TILT SWITCH (REMOTE CONTROL BOX) 10-6 REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 10-7
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 10-6 TESTING 10-7
TESTING 10-6 WARNING SYSTEMS 5-38
TROUBLESHOOTING 4-7 BATTERY VOLTAGE 5-39
TROUBLESHOOTING CHARTS OIL FLOW 5-38
OIL INJECTION WARNING SYSTEM 6-15 OIL LEVEL 5-38
OVERHEAT WARNING SYSTEM 6-18 OVER REVOLUTION 5-38
TROUBLESHOOTING THE CHARGING SYSTEM 5-40 OVERHEAT 5-38
OVERCHARGING 5-40 WATER PUMP 6-12
UNDERCHARGING 5-40 CLEANING & INSPECTION 6-13
TROUBLESHOOTING THE COOLING SYSTEM 6-12 REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 6-12
TROUBLESHOOTING THE ELECTRICAL SYSTEM 5-6 WHERE TO BEGIN 1-2
TROUBLESHOOTING THE HAND REWIND STARTER 11-2 WINTER STORAGE CHECKLIST 3-35
TROUBLESHOOTING THE LOWER UNIT 8-2 WIRE AND CONNECTOR REPAIR 5-7

SUPPLEMENT· ADDITIONAL SERVICE DATA FOR 1999 & LATER MODELS 12·2
INTRODUCTION TO SUPPLEMENTAL DATA 12-2
DT4 AND DT5Y MODEL SUPPLEMENTAL DATA 12-2
DT5/6/8 MODEL SUPPLEMENTAL DATA 12-2
DT25C/DT30C MODEL SUPPLEMENTAL DATA 12-3
DT75 AND DT85 MODEL SUPPLEMENTAL DATA 12-4
DT100TC MODEL SUPPLEMENTAL DATA 12-4
DT115STC/DT140TC MODEL SUPPLEMENTAL DATA 12-4
DT225 "M" MODEL SUPPLEMENTAL DATA 12-4
INTRODUCTION TO SUPPLEMENTAL DATA 12-2
DT4 AND DT5Y MODEL SUPPLEMENTAL DATA 12-2
CARBURETOR ASS EMBLY 12-2
CYLINDER & CYLINDER HEAD 12-2
PISTON & CRANKSHAFT 12-2
RECOIL STARTER ASSEMBLY 12-2
DT25C/DT30C MODEL SUPPLEMENTAL DATA 12-3
CARBURETOR 12-3
FLOAT ADJUSTMENT 12-3
DT75 AND DT85 MODEL SUPPLEMENTAL DATA4
OIL INJECTION SYSTEM 12-4
POWER TRIM & TILT SYSTEM 12-4
DT100TC MODEL SUPPLEMENTAL DATA 12-4
CHANGE SUMMARY 12-4
DT115STC/DT140TC MODEL SUPPLEMENTAL DATA 12-4
ELECTRONIC FUEL INJECTION (EFI) 12-4
IGNITION CONTROL SYSTEM 12-4
DT225 "M" MODEL SUPPLEMENTAL DATA 12-4
CARBURETOR & IGNITION COIL SPECIFICATIONS 12·5
ADDITIONAL CARBURETOR SPECIFICATIONS (DT4 THRU DT85) 12-5
ADDITIONAL CARBURETOR SPECIFICATIONS (DT90 THRU DT200) 12-6
IGNITION COIL SPECIFICATIONS (DT2 THRU DT85) 12-7
IGNITION COIL SPECIFICATIONS (DT90 THRU DT225) 12-8

12-2 SUPPLEMENT
SUPPLEMENT-ADDITIONAL SERVICE DATA FOR 1999 & LATER MODELS
Introduction to Supplemental Data
Most of the data and practically all the procedures contained within the Piston pi:zn r:Ji
~Piston ring set
original manuscript are current and applicable to engines and models as
®®~I &,-
indicated. However, engineering updates and additions to the product line
has resulted in minor changes to some data and modification of a few
procedures. It appears that the largest single impact of this manufacturing
progress was the addition of the DT5Y Series in 1999.
While the similarities of the DT2 &DT2.2 are well known and the
-~~ ~
procedures clearly documented and completely interchangeable; this doesn't
always apply in the discussions of engines that are larger and newer. The
following data will discuss noted dissimilarity within specific family groupings.
The DT4 and the DT5Y are similar enough for treatment as an "engine
family." The significant differences discussed next will be followed by
discussions of minor dissimilarity in other engine groups in a general
Upper crankshaft O@
chronological order. Many of the differences are related to both the fuel and
ignition components. The details of these differences are listed in the Fig. 1 Along with the larger cylinder bore, items indicated by name
supplemental data of this Section as Carburetor and Ignition Specifications. in the illustration have been changed on the DTSY
"cylinder head cover" to simply "cylinder head" on the DT5Y, although no

DT4 and DTSY Model Supplemental Data obvious change of function or design can be seen for that minor change in
designation. Service procedures for the two motors otherwise remain
There are four main differences between the DT4 and the DT5Y These
unchanged.
are as follows:
• Displacement was increased to 109 cubic centimeters using a larger
cylinder bore.
CARBURETOR ASSEMBLY
• Minor differences in the cylinder/cylinder head design were incorporated • See Figure 3
along with a change in nomenclature from Cylinder Head Cover to Cylinder
Head.
The slightly larger cylinder bore and related increase in power output of
• There are minor changes to the Carburetor Assembly.
the DT5Y required a change in carburetor, specifically in the size and jetting
• Due to the addition of a Neutral Start Interlock (NS!) system, recoil
system. In addition, an insulator was added between the carburetor gasket
starter assembly is changed.
and crankcase.
With the exception of these differences, all procedures listed for the DT4
also apply to the DT5Y.
RECOIL STARTER ASSEMBLY
PISTON &CRANKSHAFT • See Figure 4
• See Figure 1
Whereas no starter interlock or neutral start system was originally
incorporated into the DT4, the recoil starter was been changed for the DT5Y
Along with the larger cylinder bore, minor changes have been made to
to include a Neutral Start Interlock (NSI) system for additional safety. After
parts of the Piston and Crankshaft assembly. These changes include unique
servicing the starter on these models, make sure the interlock system is
pistons, rings, piston pin, upper crankshaft and lower crankshaft.
working correctly and the starter rope can only be pulled while the shifter is
in neutral. Otherwise, adjust the cable assembly until the rope cannot be
CYLINDER &CYLINDER HEAD pulled in gear, but can be freely operated when the gearcase is in neutral.
• See Figure 2
DTS/6/8 Model Supplemental Data
The DT5Y uses a slightly different cylinder and cylinder head assembly
(along with related components) as shown in the accompanying illustration. During the early 1980(s), three engines were the bellwether of Suzuki's
Suzuki factory information als~ seems to change the nomenclature for the small engine Product Line. These were the DT5/DT5W/DT8. Since the
Fig. 2 Minor changes in shape and size occurred to the DTSY (right) from he previous DT4 (shown at the left

SUPPLEMENT 12-3
OT25C/DT30C Model Supplemental Data
CARBURETOR
DT4 DTSY In the later models of this engine the following changes are noted.
Ventry size ¢ 15mm ¢ 17mm • The needle assembly (needle valve and seat) was changed to a type
Pilot adjusting method Air Screw type Pilot Screw type mounted with a plate and screw to enable replacing readily.
lnsurator Not available Available • To improve performance, the jetting specifications were changed and
are reflected in the specifications shown in this supplement.
• The mounting position of the stop screw has been changed from the
No. 1 carburetor to the No. 2 carburetor and at the same time the shape of
the stop screw was changed. Adjust the in-gear idle speed with this screw.
Fig. 3 Minor carburetor changes are found on the DT5Y when FLOAT ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE
compared with the DT4
In order to measure the float height correctly, the measuring method has
been changed.
1. Remove the carburetor from the engine. Properly drain the fuel from
the float bowl drain, turning it counterclockwise.
2. Remove the float bowl by removing the four (4) Phillips heads
screws.
3. Hold the carburetor vertically (bore up) to allow the float to swing
away from the needle valve. At this point, the float adjustment tab should not
be in contact with the needle valve's spring loaded pin.
4. Slowly rotate the carburetor until the float adjustment tab first comes
into contact with the needle valve's spring loaded pin.
5. While holding the carburetor in this position, measure the height
using a vernier caliper. The float height must be measured from the float to
the mating surface of the carburetor body, 180 degrees from the needle
valve.
Fig. 4 The recoil starter on the DT5Y incorporates a Neutral Start

Interlock (NSI) system
DT5W was the smallest of the three, it appears that it was destined to
become the family member of the DT4 as the DT5Y. As the DT5/8 were
identical with little other than physical size and different carburetors to
distinguish between them; maintenance and alignment procedures were
interchangeable. The DT5/8 employs the Suzuki PEI simultaneous ignition
system which is relatively maintenance free due to an absence of breaker
points.
The DT6 was introduced in 1984 as a Model "VE" and was a virtual clone
of the DT8.
• This later made room for the DT5W changing families/platforms and
becoming the DT5Y built on the DT4 platform.
Fig. 5 Hold the carburetor vertically allowing the float to swing
Small differences in carburetor jet sizes exist between the DT6 and DT8. away from the needle valve (at this point the adjustment tab should
These can be found in the Carburetor Specifications herein. Also the ignition NOT be in contact with the needle valve) ...
coils were changed and the specifications are reflected in the supplementary
data.
This historical data is provided that the technician might understand the
universality of the parts, maintenance and alignment procedures.
Disassembly/Assembly/Synchronization 0
Returning to the discussion of engine families earlier in this section, a
close inspection by the technician will reveal nearly identical components
and relatively standard construction techniques within engine families. This
familiarity will enhance the mechanical aptitude thereby providing the
technical expertise required for most disassembly/assembly tasks.
For example, the exploded view of the DT6 or DT8 carburetor found in the
Fuel System section, under Carburetor Service, DT6 and 1988 DT8, is also a
view of the carburetor used on the early-model DT5. Familiarity with these
type data will greatly facilitate any teardown and repair tasks.
Synchronization and tuning of an engine is an inexact science. Studying
the general operating fundamentals of each functional section will provide
you with an understanding of the physics concepts that you apply by
adjusting. Additional study of the procedure of interest in the family of
engines, as shown throughout the repair and troubleshooting sections will
provide you the confidence to overcome a lack of specificity in the data when Fig. 6 ...then slowly rotate the carburetor until the float tab JUST
none was provided by the manufacturer. comes into contact with the needle valve and measure float height

12-4 SUPPLEMENT
6. To properly adjust the float height to within specification (17mm +/- DT115STC/DT140TC Model Supplemental Data
2mm), bend the float arm adjustment tab only.
.,. The oil warning indicator light (a light emitting diode) had a 1 EQUIPMENT EVOLUTION
kilohm, one-half watt resistor placed in series with the element itself. Beginning with the larger engines and the later models, Suzuki introduced
technological advances in both its fuel and ignition methodology. The fuel
system is known as Electronic Fuel Injection (EFI) and the ignition system is
DT75 and DT85 Model Supplemental Data known as Suzuki Micro-Link. While each of these technologies is discussed
in the Fuel System and Ignition and Electrical System Sections respectively,
some additional information (a short synopsis of each) will be included here.
OIL INJECTION SYSTEM
IGNITION CONTROL SYSTEM
Early models of the DT75/85 utilized an oil injection system of the multi-
point type. However, on the later models the oil point injection system has The DT115STC and DT140TC are equipped with Suzuki's Micro-Link
been changed to a single point type. The oil pump now has one single outlet ignition system. This system uses sensor to monitor specific engine
delivering oil to a 3-way union before the fuel pump, mixing oil and gasoline operating systems and supply signals to an Engine Control Unit (ECU) for
prior to the fuel/oil mixture entering the carburetors. ignition and warning operation .. The primary ignition sensors are the Throttle
Directly resulting from the adoption of the single-point type oil injection Valve Sensor (TVS) for determining throttle valve opening angle and the
system, the following modifications apply: engine speed sensor (gear count coil) for determining the engine speed.
• The late type single outlet pump will not interchange with the early type Based on these signals, the ECU determines the ignition timing
pump. necessary for the engine's current operating scenario and delivers timely
• The three inlet case oil nozzles have been removed and the orifices voltage to the ignition coils thus producing ignition spark.
must be blocked. Two compensation sensors, cylinder wall temperature and air temperature
supply signals used by the ECU to compensate ignition timing based on
POWER TRIM & TILT SYSTEM temperature related criteria.
A pulser coil supplies crankshaft angle signals which the ECU uses when
Early models of the DT75/85 were equipped with a power trim and tilt determining a trigger signal for ignition.
system where the pump/motor unit was externally mounted on the starboard
clamp bracket, separate from the cylinder/manifold assembly. ELECTRONIC FUEL INJECTION (EFI)
The later model engine incorporates a newly designed PTT system which
is fully integrated, with a unitized pump/manifold assembly housed entirely The DT115STC and DT140TC like all the later V-6 models, uses an
between the clamp brackets. Electronic Fuel Injection (EFI) system. EFI is a fuel control system that
To accommodate the new PTT system, the swivel and clamp brackets monitors all current engine running conditions through the use of multiple
have been modified, although transom mounting bolt pattern remains he sensors. These signals translate physical conditions into electronic signals
same. which are forwarded to the ECU.
See the construction features and operating principles detailed in the Internal to the ECU is a microprocessor which determines the optimum
Power Trim and Tilt section, following the important safety and service amount of fuel required for the current engine conditions and calculates the
guidelines which are listed below. corresponding injection time duration. The fuel injectors receive this duration
signal and inject fuel into the engine intake manifold.
**WARNING Suzuki uses the multi-point, sequential method of fuel injection. This
Remember that the PTT system is pressurized. Remove the fill plug consists of three areas: air intake system, fuel system and the control
only when the motor is fully tilted. Additionally, before the removing system. All systems are covered in the Fuel System Section.
the PTT mechanism, the motor should be fully supported to prevent
personal injury. DT150/175/200 Model Supplemental Data
Keep the following points in mind to prevent damage to the system Earlier models of this family grouping (V-6) used 3 balanced carburetors
while servicing it as a fuel system. Fuel was delivered to the system by two fuel pumps whose
• To prevent system operating disorder, ensure all components are kept outputs fed a three-port manifold attached to the carburetors. More detail of
free from dirt or sediment. this arrangement is found in the Fuel System Section.
• When unscrewing the trim and tilt cylinder head, use only the special The V-6 starting system is a new design, which uses a solenoid release
cylinder cap tool (P/N 09944~09410); do not attempt to pry or lever with valve and a large volume chamber for fuel delivery into the intake system
screwdriver blade etc. behind No. 2 and No. 3 carburetors. Fuel for this arrangement is provided by
• During disassembly, retain all 0-rings, seals, springs etc with the the No.1 fuel pump and is fed directly to the fuel starter assembly. It is
components to which they belong. This will prevent possible confusion and controlled by a float chamber an needle valve assy.
ensure correct reassembly. Beginning with the "K" model in 1989 the Micro-Link Ignition was installed
• To prevent entrapment of air in the PTT oil lines, do not operate the in this engine family. This system electronically controls the ignition and
PTT motor when the engine is fully tilted, being hoisted from boat transom or various warning systems by means of a microcomputer. Service details are
lain on the side. included in the Ignition and Electrical System Section.
With the advent of the "M" model, additional sensors regarding various
complicit temperatures was linked to the Electronic Ignition System as a
DT1 OOTC Model Supplemental Data prelude to EFI.
CHANGE SUMMARY DT225 "M" Model Supplemental Data·

The changes from the early to late configurations to this engine are very The DT225 has an Electronic Ignition/Fuel system that has been fully
minor and are all covered in the Ignition and Electrical Systems Section. integrated into all engine operating scenarios. It appears to be the
Basically the changes involved replacing the original 4 pulsar coils with two forerunner of the system used on the DT115 which was introduced in 2000.
mounted 180 degrees apart and providing a power source for the CDI unit It is well described in both the Fuel System and Electrical and Ignition
circuit. System Sections.

SUPPLEMENT 12-5
CARBURETOR & IGNITION COIL SPECIFICATIONS
ADDITIONAL CARBURETOR SPECIFICATIONS

Previously published specifications are generally acceptable for all covered Suzuki motors,
however, this chart lists the latest OEM specifications provided for the motors included here.
DT4&DT5Y
Item Unit uata
DT4 DT4(E03) DT5Y
Type Mikuni 8V18-15 8V18-15 8V22-17
l.D.Mark 98620 98630 986A0,986A1
Main Jet # 97.5 97.5 107.5
Pilot Jet # 45 45 55
Air Screw Turns open 1 1/4 1 *

Pilot Screw Turns open * * 3/4t
Float Ht. mm 13 13 14
..
NOTE: Hold Carburetor vertical (bore up) and slowly rotate to an inverted horizontal pos1t1on
until float adjustment tab contacts inlet needle valve. Holding carburetor in this position,
measure with vernier caliper from the float to the mating surface of the carburetor body,
gasket removed,at 180 degrees from the needle valve.
DT5/6/8 "N" (92 and Later) Models

Item Unit Data
DT5 DT6 DT8
5-type L&ULtype 5-type L&UL type
Type Mikuni 8V18-15 8V18-14 8v18-14 · 8V24-18 8v24-18
l.D. Mark 98524 98121 98131 98115 98105
Main Jet # 102.5 100 115 102.5 105
Main AirJ phi (mm) 1.6 1.3 1.6 1.2 1.2
Pilot Jet # 50 40 40 50 50
PilotAir Jt phi (mm) 2 2 2 2.0;0.8 2.0;0.8
Air Screw turn open 1 718 11/8 1 1/4 3/4t 3/4t
Valve seat phi (mm) 1.2 1.2 1.2 1.2 1.2
Float Ht. mm 14 14 14 24 24
NOTE: Adjust float height as above.
DT25C/30C
Item Unit Data
DT25C DT30C
Type Mikuni 826-20 826-20
Main Jet # 122.5/125 125
Main AirJt phi (mm) 1.6 1.6
Pilot Jet· # 67.5170 67.5170
Pilot Air Jt phi (mm) 1.2 1.2
Pilot Screw turn open 1 1/2-2 1 1/2-2
Valve seat phi (mm) 1.2 1.2
Float Ht mm (in) 12-14 (0.5) 12-14 (0.5)
II II f
This Data was reviewed against requirements of the "K"; L ; 'M"; & " N" Models and found to be applicable
DT75TC/DT85TC
Item Unit Data
DT75TC DT85TC
ID Mark Top3,956r1 ;2nd956r3 T3,956P3; 2nd,956P5
Tvoe Makuni 832-28 8401-32
Main Jet # Top3rd,140; 2nd,145 Top3rd, 170;2nd180
Mn AirJet ohi (mm) 1.3 1.8
Pilot Jet # 87.5 75
P Air Jet phi (mm) a2.0;b2.5 a2.0;b2.5
Air Screw turn open 1 5/8 1
Float Hgt. mm 12 17
NOTE. This Data was extrapolated from the "S" '95 Model OEM Specs., but should be applicable to all models

12-6 SUPPLEMENT
ADDITIONAL CARBURETOR SPECIFICATIONS

Previously published specifications are generally acceptable for all covered Suzuki motors,
however, this chart lists the latest OEM specifications provided for the motors included here.
DT90/DT100
Item Unit Data
DT90 DT100
Type Mikuni 8W36-24x2 BW40-32x2
Main Jet # 132.5 165
Mn Air Jet #(mm) 1.5 2
Pilot Jet # 90 77.5
ptAir Jet #(mm) 1.1 1
Air Screw turn open 1 1/4 1 1/4
Valve seat #(mm) 2 2
Float Hgt mm (in) 9.5-11.5 (.37-.45) 9.5-11.5 (.37-.45)
Fuel level mm 21-23 21-23
DT115/140 "VH" Model

Item Unit Data
DT115 DT140
Type Mikuni 832-28 840-32
Main Jet # 132.5 Top157.5, 3rd:162.5
2nd & 4th: 155
MnAirJet phi (mm) 1 1.2
Pilot Jet # 82.5 80
Pit Air Jet phi (mm) a 2.0 b1.5 · a2.0 b1.5
Air Screw turn open 1 1/4-1 3/4 1.0-1 1/2
Float Level mm 10.0-12.0 17.0-19.0
NOTE: This Data 1s consistent with those from OEM Specs for Models "J", "K", "L", "M", "N", "T", & "V''.
DT150/175/200 "K" Model

Item Unit Data
DT150 DT175 DT200
Type Mikuni BW36-24 BW40-28 BW40-32
Main Jet # 132.5 142.5 165
Mn Air Jet phi (mm) 1.5 1.2 1.3
Pilot Jet # 77.5 85 92.5
Pit Air Jet phi (mm) 0.8 1 1
Air Screw turn open 1 1/2 1 1/2 1 3/4
Float Hgt mm 12 12 12
Note: This Data was compiled from "M" Models, but should also apply to the "'K" & "L"' Models.
One major exception to these data is the DT225 "M" Series which uses Fuel Injection

SUPPLEMENT 12-7
IGNITION COIL SPECIFICATIONS
Ignition coil testing may be accomplished using either an analog or digital volUohmmeter.
You will obtain the best results using a DVOM which includes a capacitor checker.
Resistance is measured in ohms (identified with the Greek letter Omega, which appears as a
small hump-backed caterpillar). All resistance specs were derived at a temp of ?OF (20C)
DT2& DT2.2
Item I Unit I Data
Ignition Coil
Primary Ohm 96-144
Secondary kOhm 1.7-2.5
Condenser Charge Coil Res Ohm 100
Condenser Ohm loto hi
DT4&DT5Y
Item I Unit I Data
Condenser charge coil res. Ohm 96-144 (B/R-B)
Ignition Coil Res
Primary Ohm
Secondary (w/o spark plug cap) kOhm 1.7-2.5 (H.T.cord-GND)
Pulser coil Ohm 15 - 45
Lighting coil resistance Ohm 0.1 -0.2
Spark plug cap res. kOhm 10
Batt.charge coil res. ohm 0.3-0.50 (R-Y) ... option
Batt charge coil out (12V) Watt 60 .... option
DT5/6/8
Item I Unit I Data
Condenser charge coil res. Ohm 230-340 (Black/Red - black)
Pulser coil resistance Ohm 70 -100 (White/Red - black)
Ignition coil resistance Ohm 1300 -1900 (plug cap - plug cap)
Lighting coil output Watt 12V 80w
Lighting coil resistance Ohm 0.37 - 0.45
DT25C/30C
Item I Unit I Data
Condenser charge coil res. Ohm 170 - 250 (B/R - G)
Pulser coil resistance Ohm 170 - 250 (#1: RIB, #2: W/B, #3: R/W -black}
Hear counter coil resistance Ohm 160 - 240 (B/G - O/G)
Ignition coil res.
Primary Ohm 0.1 - 0.4 (#1: 0, #2: Bl, #3: Gr - black)
Secondary kOhm 1.9 - 2.7 (#1: 0, #2: Bl, #3: Gr to plug cap)
Batt. charge coil res. Ohm 0.2 - 0.6 (R - Y)
Fuse rating Amp 20
Choke solenoid res Ohm 2.4- 4.2
Starter relay coil res. Ohm 3.5-5.1
DT75C/OT85TC
Item I Unit I Data
Throttle Sensor Output Voltage V@FCT 0.45 - 0.55 (Light gm/Red - Black)
V@WOT > 2.1 (Light gm/Red - Black)
Over rev limiter r/min 5900 mg 250
Condenser charge coil res Ohm 336 - 504 Gm - Blk (R tube)
Pulser coil resistance
#1 (Red/Black - Gnd) Ohm 170 - 250
#2 (WhUBlack - Gnd) Ohm 170-250
#3 (Red/Wht - Gnd) Ohm 170 - 250
Gear count coil res 160 - 240 (Orange/Gm - Blk/Gm)
Ignition coil res.
Primary Ohm 0.1 -0.3 (# 1: 0, #2: Bl., #3: G- B)
Secondary Ohm 1.8 - 2.8 (wlo plug cap)
Plug cap Ohm 10
Batt charge coil res Ohm 0.26 - 0.40 (Red - Yellow)
Batt. Charge coil output V/W 12volts/80watts
Fuse Amps 20
Choke solenoid coil resistance Ohm 3.5 - 5.1 (Orange - Black)

12-8 SUPPLEMENT
IGNITION COIL SPECIFICATIONS
Ignition coil testing may be accomplished using either an analog or digital volt/ohmmeter.
You will obtain the best results using a DVOM which includes a capacitor checker.
Resistance is measured in ohms (identified with the Greek letter Omega, which appears as a
small hump-backed caterpillar). All resistance specs were derived at a temp of 70F (20C)
DT100/DT90
Item I Unit I Data
Condenser charge coil res. Ohm 180 - 270
Pulser coil resistance Ohm 160 - 230
Gear counter coil resistance Ohm 160 - 230
Ignition coil res.
Primary
Ohm 0.15 -0.25
Secondary
Ohm 2.6 - 3.8 (plug cap res)
Batt charge coil res. Ohm 0.4 - 0.6
Batt charge coil output Watts 200 (12V)
Fuse rating Amps 25
Fuel starter solenoid res Ohms 50 - 75
Starter relay res Ohms 3.0 - 4.0
PTI relay resistance Ohms 3.0 - 4.5
NOTE: This data was based on 90 "L" Models. However it is applicable through the end of the model run
DT115/DT140
Item I Unit I Data
Condenser chargecoil res #1 Ohm 170 - 250

Ohm 170 - 250
Pulser coil & counter coil res Ohm 170 - 250
Ignition coil res.
Primary
Ohm 0.4- 0.7
Secondary
kOhm 5 to 8
Batt. Charge coil res Ohm 0.1 - 0.3
Batt Charge coil output Watts 200 @ 12V
Fuse rating Amps 25
Choke solenoid coil res. Ohm 2.8 - 4.2
Starter relay coil res Ohm 2.8 - 4.2
PTT relay coil res Ohm 3.5 - 5.1
NOTE: Data was compiled based on the 1986 (VG) models, but applies to VG, VH, J, K, I, M, N, T, V & Y
DT150/175/200
Item I Unit I Data
Condenser charge coil res. Ohm 240 - 370 (Gm - Blk/Red)

IC power source coil Ohm 140 - 210 (Wht/Yellow- Gnd)
Pulser coil resistance Ohm 160 - 240 (Red/Blk, Wbt/Blk or Red/Wht to Gnd)
Gear counter coil res Ohm 160 - 240 (Orange/Gm to Blk)
Ignition coil res
Primary Ohm 0.05 -0.15
Secondary kOhm 3.3 - 4.9 {plus 10 for plug cap)
Batt.charge coil res
#1 + #2 Ohm 0.2 - 0.4
#3 Ohm 0.2 - 0.4
Batt charge coil output Watts 200 @ 12 V
Fuse rating Amps 25
Fuel starter coil res Ohm 50 - 75
Starter relay res Ohm 2.8 - 4.2
PTT relay resistance Ohm 3.5 - 5.1
NOTE: Data was compiled from the "VH' Model series but applies to "VJ"; "K"; "L" Models as well
Data also applies to "M" Models, except for the differences noted below
DT200 & DT225 "M" MODELS

Condenser charge coil res. Ohm 62 - 92 (Green - Black/Red)
Ohm 385 - 575 (White/Red - White/Blue)
Gear counter coil res. Ohm 160 - 240 (Orange/Green to Black.green)
Batt. charge coil res Ohm 0.1 - 0.3 (Yellow to Yellow) #1, #2, #3
Ohm Infinity (Yellow to Gnd)
Batt charge coil output Watts 350@12V
Fuse rating Amp 25 X 2 (Parallel}

Suzuki DT2-DT225 1988-03

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Suzuki DT2-DT225 1988-03

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CONTENTS

HOW TO USE THIS MANUAL 1·2

TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT 2·2

ENGINE MAINTENANCE 3·2

FUEL AND COMBUSTION 4·2

UNDERSTANDING AND TROUBLESHOOTING

OIL INJECTION SYSTEM 6·2

© BENCHMANUK PDF MANUALS 2006

ENGINE MECHANICAL 7-2

LOWER UNIT 8-2

MANUAL TILT 9-2

REMOTE CONTROL BOX 10-2

HAND REWIND STARTER 11-2

GLOSSARY 11-13 GLOSSARY

INDEX 11-17 MASTER INDEX

SUPPLEMENT: DTSY AND ADDITIONAL INFORMATION

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© BENCHMANUK PDF MANUALS 2006

REGISTRATION OF BOATS t See Figure 4

A registration number is on your registration certificate. You must paint or

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VENTILATION • See Figure 5

Ventilation for Open Boats

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Care and Treatment

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Nighttime Non-Pyrotechnic Signals

Nighttime Pyrotechnic Devices

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SECOND MEANS OF PROPULSION

Fig. 12 A typical wooden oar should be kept onboard as an auxiliary

Emergency Position Indicating Radio Beacon (EPIRB)

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TOOLS AND SPARE PARTS

• See Figures 15 and 16

Courtesy Marine Examinations

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t See Figures 1 and 2

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LUBRICANTS & PENETRANTS

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Fig. 6 Sealants are essential for preventing leaks

• See Figures 8 and 9

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t See Figures 11 thru 17

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Fig. 21 A click type or breakaway torque wrench-note this one has

Fig. 19 Parts of a beam type torque wrench

CLICK (BREAKAWAY) TYPE

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718" .875 .866 22mm

Fig. 24 Comparison of U.S. measure and metric wrench sizes

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In addition to standard pliers there are the slip-joint, multi-position pliers

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OTHER COMMON TOOLS

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