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April 2021
Cleaner
Sunscreens Preservation
During Production
Body Beauty
and Anti-aging
HA + Retinoid
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Inclusive Beauty
for the Blind
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Contents | C&T ®
April 2021 | Volume 136, number 4
6 Editor’s Note
Aging in a New Light
7 Industry Insight
Making the Aging-Glycation Connection
7 [video] Cosmetics R&D Vlog: Modeling

and Mitigating Glycation in Skin
26
with Dr. Ka-Heng Lee
64 Ad Index
Market Intelligence
10 Product Roundup
24
12 New Ingredients & Technologies
16 Expert Opinions:
Full Spectrum Protection
Mineral Filters, Innate Defense, Transparency,
Sustainabilty, Inclusivity, Blue Light and More
18 Evoking Emotion: Inside Out

Perceiving Aging Mentally and Physically
by K. Steventon, Ph.D.
Research
24 Inclusive Beauty
42
Making Cosmetics More Accessible for the Blind
and for Visually Impaired Consumers
by A. Pradhan and G. Daniels
26 Body Beauty
Insights into Non-facial Skin Aging
by R. Gopaul
Peer-reviewed content, designated by this icon, ensures

the insights we deliver are vetted, authentic and reliable for readers.
2 | www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com Vol. 136, No. 4 | April 2021
CT2104_TOC_Masthead_fcx_DM.indd 2 3/29/21 1:29 PM

Editor’s note | C&T ®
Contents | C&T ®
60 EDITORIAL
Content Director
Editor in Chief
The Definitive Peer-Reviewed Cosmetic Science Resource
Jeb Gleason-Allured | 1-630-344-6069/jallured@allured.com

Katie Anderson | 1-630-344-6077/kanderson@allured.com
Managing Editor Rachel L. Grabenhofer | 1-630-344-6072/rgrabenhofer@allured.com
Assistant Editor Michele Behrens | 1-630-344-6032/mbehrens@allured.com
News Editor Hannah Fink | 1-630-344-6070/hfink@allured.com
50 ADVERTISING SALES
Business Development Manager Jolly Patel | 1-630-344-6061/jpatel@allured.com
Advertising Production Manager Kasia Smialkowski | 1-630-344-6025/ksmialkowski@allured.com
Preservation Focus
AUDIENCE DEVELOPMENT
Marketing Specialist Bianca Esposito
Customer Service 1-847-559-7558/customerservice@cosmeticsandtoiletries.com
34 Weak Points in Preservation DESIGN

by R. Grabenhofer with S. Schnittger, Ph.D. Design Manager Kim Fry
Senior Graphic Designer James Fergus
Production Manager Bryan Crowe
42 Quality Culture Part I: Introduction
Eliminating Microbes in the CORPORATE
Cosmetic Manufacturing Gemba Partner & CEO George Fox
by Y. Toshima, Ph.D., et. al Partner & President Janet Ludwig
Director of Events Maria Prior
Digital Products Director Rose Southard
Testing Executive Assistant Maria Romero
50 ‘Cleaning Up’ Sun Care

Natural Wax/Surfactant Blend for OTHER ALLURED PRODUCTS
Sustainable Performance Cosmetics & Toiletries Bench Reference Face & Body Northern California spa expo and conference
by M. Issleib and L. Jung Cosmetics & Toiletries magazine: Portuguese edition Face & Body Southeast spa expo and conference
Global Cosmetic Industry magazine Beauty Launchpad
Beauty Accelerate MedEsthetics
Formulating
Perfumer & Flavorist magazine Dayspa
Flavorcon Nailpro
World Perfumery Congress Nailpro San Jose
Skin Inc. magazine Nailpro Pasadena
Face & Body Midwest spa expo and conference
60 Safe and Strategic
Hyaluronic and Retinoic Acid Derivative
Allays Aging and Acne For Subscriptions: Subscribe online: www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com/subscribe
For both the US and internationally, telephone: 1-847-559-7558
by P. Orzol, et. al (8 AM–4:30 PM Central, Monday–Friday) Fax: 1-847-291-4816
E-mail: customerservice@cosmeticsandtoiletries.com
Address: Cosmetics & Toiletries, PO Box 3009, Northbrook, IL 60065-3009
Print subscriptions: Available free to qualified individuals located in the United States.
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July/Aug., Sept., Oct. and Nov./Dec. by Allured Business Media.
Address: Cosmetics & Toiletries, 336 Gundersen Drive, Suite D, Carol Stream, IL 60188-2403.
www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com
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Copyright 2021: Reproduction in whole or in part without permission is strictly prohibited.
4 | www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com Vol. 136, No. 3 | March 2021

Cosmetics & Toiletries and C&T are registered trademarks of Allured Publishing Corporation.
CT2104_TOC_Masthead_fcx_DM.indd 4 3/29/21 1:30 PM

Editor’s Note | C&T ®
Aging in a New Light
Rachel L. Grabenhofer
Managing Editor
rgrabenhofer@allured.com
Scientific
Advisory Board
Eric Abrutyn
TPC2 Advisors Ltd.
Jean-Christophe Choulot
Caudalíe
Zoe Diana Draelos, M.D.

Dermatology
Consulting Services
WSJ magazine recently reported1 that while beauty marketers had been
Angela R. Eppler, Ph.D.
targeting younger consumers, dismissing consumers over 50 as “aging out,” this GlaxoSmithKline
dynamic may be shifting back toward the older generation—and its stronger
Trefor Evans, Ph.D.
buying power. “The 50-plus demographic makes up the largest percent of the TA Evans LLC/TRI Princeton
population with the highest amount of spend,” said Maude Brunschwig, SVP of S. Peter Foltis
marketing at L’Oréal Paris, according to the report.1 Independent Consultant
Furthermore, menopause has entered the discussion, as it fosters major Mindy Goldstein, Ph.D.
changes in skin and hair for which many women are unprepared (and that Mindy S. Goldstein, Ph.D. Consulting
consumer products can address). The WSJ report adds that according to venture John Jiménez
Belcorp Colombia
capital firm Female Founders Fund, more than one billion women are expected
to be postmenopausal by 2025, amounting to a $600 billion opportunity. Karl Laden, Ph.D.
Alpa Cosmetics
The market also has embraced aging in another way: the anti-aging mindset
has shifted in a more positive light toward well aging to reflect growing older in Howard I. Maibach, M.D.
University of California, San Francisco
a healthy and joyful way. However you position it, even amid the pandemic, the
Prithwiraj Maitra, Ph.D.
“anti-aging” market is projected2 to expand at a CAGR of 6.8% between 2020 Allergan/Skinmedica
and 2027 to reach US $83.2 billion. And within this segment, sunscreens are
Jennifer Marsh, Ph.D.
expected to outpace the category with a CAGR of 7.8%. Procter & Gamble
Well aging and sun protection—i.e., anti-intrinsic and anti-extrinsic aging—
Marc Pissavini, Ph.D.
also go hand in hand with today’s heightened focus on safety and protection. Coty-Lancaster
This is especially true considering how with age, skin’s health and vitality is Luigi Rigano, Ph.D.
depleted, in turn lowering our defenses all around. Industrial Consulting Research
This month’s C&T focuses heavily on aging and sun protection, starting with Sylvianne Schnebert, M.D.
the biology of body skin and how it ages, on Page 26, and working up to the face LVMH Recherche
with a hyaluronic and retinoic acid conjugate for aging and acne, on Page 60. Steve Schnittger, Ph.D.
The Estée Lauder Companies
A cleaner and simpler approach to sun protection is described on Page 50, and
ideas for full spectrum protection are offered in our “Expert Opinions” piece on Ron Sharpe
Amway
Page 16; plus, our Sun Protection Formulary begins on Page 62.
In addition, we debut a “Preservation Focus” section this month on Page 34, Leslie C. Smith, Ph.D.
Consultant
and we offer a unique look at inclusive beauty from the eyes of the blind and
David C. Steinberg
visually impaired consumers on Page 24. We hope this edition provides you Steinberg & Associates
insights on skin aging, sun protection and more in a new light.
Peter Tsolis
The Estée Lauder Companies
1. https://www.wsj.com/articles/pro-aging-skin-care-wrinkles-secret-11613576450
2. https://www.prnewswire.com/news-releases/assessment-of-the-anti-aging-products-industry-
Russel Walters, Ph.D.
Johnson & Johnson
2020-2027---impact-of-covid-19-and-a-looming-global-recession-301099506.html
Claudie Willemin
Independent Consultant
Shuliang Zhang, Ph.D.

Coty, Inc.
6 | www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com
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Industry Insight | C&T ®
Making the Aging-Glycation Connection

During the IFSCC 2020 event, Ka-Heng Lee, Ph.D., of Wipro
Skin Research and Innovation Center, was presented the
Henry Maso Award for developing a test model to screen
materials for anti-glycation efficacy in skin. This resulted in
a nano-emulsion containing an antioxidant with clinically
proven anti-glycation efficacy.
Glycation accelerates skin aging, impairs barrier function,
disassembles the extracellular matrix and triggers inflamma-
tion and oxidative stress. It also is a leading factor in skin
darkening—without melanin activity, as Lee discovered.
Following is an adapted excerpt of an interview with Lee
about his work and findings.
C&T: Why were you interested in glycation?

CA: As we are moving into the cosmeceutical era with high con-
sumer demand for functional skin care, we are aiming to develop
skin care products that help to address this consumer need, espe-
cially for anti-aging effects. Glycation has been linked to many
age-related disorders, including skin aging. Technically, glycation
is a non-enzymatic reaction between the reactive carbonyl group
of a reducing sugar molecule that cross-links to the amino group
of a protein molecule to form a stabilized advanced glycation
end product (AGE). Back in 2012, most of the research related
to glycation was focused on the biomedical field with a limited
understanding of the impact of glycation on skin health—and
especially lacking a skin model to validate hypotheses. We thus
developed the skin glycation model to facilitate our investigation
of anti-glycation compound screening.
C&T: What were your findings? How did

this lead to a topical ingredient?
CA: We initially focused on characterizing

the gene expression profile of the glycated skin Video
model by using microarray analysis. To our sur-
prise, we observed the glycated skin model was
[video] Cosmetics R&D Vlog: Modeling
and Mitigating Glycation in Skin
turning brown in conjunction with glycation
activity but in the absence of melanocyte cells.
To our knowledge, this is the first scientific
evidence of the skin darkening effects induced
by glycation without direct involvement of
melanocyte activity.
Using the glycated skin model, we found the
commercially available antioxidant dimeth-
ylmethoxy chromanol demonstrated potent
anti-glycation activity. However, it was unstable.
We further developed a nano-emulsion to
protect the compound and in a clinical study, it
exhibited significant anti-aging and anti-
hyperpigmentation efficacy progressively
after two months of product usage.
Vol. 136, No. 4 | April 2021 Cosmetics & Toiletries® |7
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Product Roundup [Ingredients, Equipment & Services]
Highlighting innovative ingredients, services and products
JD Hydro Boost Fairy Flora K-1

Jojoba Desert (A.C.S) Ltd. Ichimaru Pharcos Co., Ltd.
jojobadesert.com/product/jd-hydro-boost/ ichimaru.co.jp/english/brand/fairyfloraK-1/
JD Hydro Boost (INCI: Water (Aqua) (and) Levan (and) Glucose (and) Fairy Flora K-1 (INCI: Lactobacillus (and) Maltodextrin) restores natural
Fructose (and) Sucrose (and) Sodium Citrate (and) Potassium Citrate skin flora using the lactic acid bacteria found in Japanese rice. The prod-
(and) Citric Acid) is a natural polysaccharide functional for anti-aging uct nurtures beneficial bacteria such as Coagulase-negative Staphylo-
that enables cross-action performance. It provides a deep moisturi cocci and improves aging skin. The ingredient is made from heat-treated
zation effect, skin cell rejuvenation aid, wrinkle reduction and demon- Lactobacillus for a quality that is stabler than the raw bacteria.
strates “biome-friendly” qualities. It penetrates the upper epidermal
layers of the skin to promote the activation of extracellular matrix
mechanisms and collagen-1 secretion. InfraGuard
Mibelle Biochemistry
mibellebiochemistry.com/
CrossLinkedHA infraguard
Contipro a.s. InfraGuard (INCI: Caesal-
contipro.com/ pinia Spinosa Fruit Pod Extract
For topical application, CrossLinkedHA (and) Helianthus Annuus
(INCI: Sodium Hyaluronate (and) Sodium (Sunflower) Sprout Extract
Hyaluronate Crosspolymer-3) is supplied (and) Maltodextrin (and) Water
in powder form with no preservatives or (Aqua)) combines organic
stabilizers. It is water-soluble, forming sunflower shoots and power-
a soft hydrogel microparticle suspen- ful antioxidants from the tara tree in order to efficiently protect the skin
sion. Besides hydrating and anti-wrinkle against the harmful effects of infrared (IR). It also significantly protects
properties, it works as a delivery system, essential skin cells from high energy visible (HEV) light, also known as
enabling a continual long-term release blue light.
of other active ingredients into the skin, thus increasing their efficacy.
TEGO White 50 MB
Campo Plantservative Evonik
Campo Research evonik.com/personalcare
campo-research.com.br/ TEGO White 50 MB (INCI:
For 32 years, Campo Research Glycol Distearate (and) Diso-
has led the charge for green dium Lauryl Sulfosuccinate
preservative-like actives. Campo (and) Glyceryl Laurate) is a
Plantservative (INCI: Lonicera predominantly vegetable-
Caprifolium (Honeysuckle) Flower based, liquid and pumpable
Extract (and) Lonicera Japonica opacifier for surfactant-
(Honeysuckle) Flower Extract based formulations, espe-
(and) Water (Aqua)) is produced cially formulations that have a PEG- and/or sulfate-free claim. It can
from wildly cropped honeysuckle be used in various hair care and cleansing applications and is a good
and is effective against a broad spectrum of microbes, viruses, fungi, replacement for styrene/acrylates copolymer-based opacifiers, which
endospores and molds in products. are increasingly under regulatory risk.
CT2104_Roundup_fcx.indd 8 3/18/21 5:54 PM

Solaveil XTP-2 Rosehip Seed Oil
Croda Inc. Arista Industries, Inc.
bit.ly/3cpPZYm aristaindustries.com
Solaveil XTP-2 (INCI: Titanium Dioxide (and) Silica) is a silica-coated, Rosehip Seed Oil (INCI: Rosa Canina Fruit Oil) is an unsaturated drying
alumina-free powder variant, delivering broad-spectrum UV protection. oil containing a high amount of essential fatty acids, vitamin E and
This technology provides a much higher level of UVA protection than vitamin A, which are used in cosmetic and personal care applications,
traditional sunscreen grades of TiO2 while maintaining the high UVB specifically skin care. The oil has been used to treat skin problems
protection normally associated with these materials. Applications include including stretch marks, sun damage, eczema and more.
sun care for babies, children and sensitive skin, or color cosmetics.
BLUSH Oléoactif
IBR-Chill Hallstar
LucasMeyer Cosmetics hallstarbeauty.com/
by IFF product/blush-oleoactif/
lucasmeyercosmetics.com/ Concerns about skin
en/our-showroom/ibr-chill sensitivity have gradually
IBR-Chill (INCI: Glycerin (and) increased due to worsen-
Water (Aqua) (and) Cistus Incanus ing environmental pollution,
Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract) is a climate change and a
pink rock-rose extract organically sustained need to wear
grown in the Mediterranean des- masks. BLUSH Oléoactif
ert. IBR-Chill mimics the effects (INCI: Brassica Campestris
of meditation, which can improve (Rapeseed) Seed Oil (and)
the appearance of skin affected Polygonum Tinctorium Leaf
by stress and anxiety by reducing Extract) is a 100% natural liposoluble active that provides quantifiable
inflammation, wrinkles and more. benefits for enhancing skin conditions (e.g., redness, tightness) as well
as consumers’ self-perception and emotional state.
EleVastin Microbiome Research Applications

Gattefossé MilliporeSigma (part of the Merck KGaA,
gattefosse.com/personal- Darmstadt, Germany family)
care-actives/elevastin/ SigmaAldrich.com/microbiome
EleVastin (INCI: Betaine (and) Standardization is essential in
Water (Aqua) (and) Propanediol microbiome analysis in order to
(and) Murraya Koenigii Stem generate accurate and valid data. We
Extract) is a targeted solution for support metagenomics and metabolomics
skin sagging. While promoting workflows by improving reproducibility and
skin elasticity, this 100% natural promoting reliable comparison of results.
origin active also offers support Our growing portfolio of reagents and
to the skin from the daily pressure of gravity. EleVastin reduces the services for microbiome research will
drooping of the lower face, better defining facial contours and restoring support efforts to reveal the role of
a youthful appearance. the microbiome.
Vol. 136, No. 4 | April 2021 Cosmetics & Toiletries® |9

Product Roundup
DermalRx FSE
Puresterol Biocogent, LLC
Bio-Botanica Inc. biocogent.com/news
bio-botanica.com/?s=puresterol
DermalRx FSE (INCI: Water (Aqua) (and) Sargassum Vulgare Extract
Puresterol (INCI: Pueraria Mirifica) acts as an anti-wrinkle agent. It (and) Saccharomyces Ferment Filtrate) is a marine ferment of Sargas-
helps to smooth wrinkled skin, supports healthy hair growth, improves sum vulgare extract that is rich in bioactive phlorotannins and rejuve-
eye health and supports restful sleep. nates and protects through the stimulation of skin’s natural nucleotide
excision repair process of DNA. DermalRx FSE delivers antipollution
activity while inhibiting oxidation and inflammation. It can also be used
as a booster in sun care formulations.
Silwax B116
Siltech
siltech.com/industry-
Hairdian AP
applications/
personal-care/ Shanghai Greaf Biotech Co., Ltd.
greaf.com/
Silwax B116 (INCI:
Cetyl Dimethicone) is a Hairdian AP (INCI: Propanediol (and)
clear, low viscosity alkyl Platycladus Orientalis Leaf Extract
dimethicone ideal for (and) Zingiber Officinale (Ginger)
sun and skin care. The Root Extract (and) Trifolium Pratense
alkyl functionality makes (Clover) Leaf Extract (and) Artemisia
the oils compatible, to Argyi Leaf Extract) resets and inhibits
improve aesthetics on the growth cycle of hair follicles by
the skin and reduce the regulating sebum secretion; promot-
white cast rubout time ing autophagy of dimer procyani-
of sunscreens. In skin care, the ingredient serves as an emollient and dins; accelerating the synthesis of
imparts barrier properties. Collagen XVII; and upregulating the expression of cell growth factors.
Proven safe, this active is of natural origin and preservative-free.
Sharomix Amplify AM25 Kalibiome Ecogenetic

Acme Hardesty Co. Kalichem Srl
ulprospector.com/en/na/Person- kalichem.it/it/
alCare/Detail/4237/1459783/ ingredients/kalibiome-
Sharomix-Amplify-AM-25 ecogenetic/
Sharomix Amplify AM25 (INCI: Kalibiome postbiotics,
Phenoxyethanol (and) Chlorphen- specifically Kalibiome
esin (and) Caprylyl Glycol (and) Ecogenetic (INCI: Lacto-
Didecyldimonium Chloride) is a bacillus Ferment (and)
preservative solution for personal Maltodextrin (and) Man-
care applications. It demonstrates nitol), are pure substances
microbiological performance at a obtained through a patented
significantly low level in finished bio-fermentation process.
products; roughly 0.5%. Free from Designed to strengthen the barrier and defend skin through micro-
parabens, formaldehyde donors, isothiazolinones, color and odor, the biota, rebalancing and inhibiting pathogenic biofilms, it keeps the
ingredient offers high compatibility in formulas. barrier integrity in the presence of microbes, promoting skin redensifi-
cation after mechanical stress. It also provides daily protection against
microbes and after mask use.

DENDRICLEAR™
REBALANCE THE
Before
ACNEBIOME™ FOR HEALTHY,

BLEMISH-FREE SKIN
After
Decreasing the C. acnes quantity is no longer key to clearing
acne… but rebalancing its distribution between acneic and
non-acneic strains is!
This breakthrough strategy allows acne-prone skin to recover

a healthier microbiota for healthier skin.
Patented lysine dendrimer obtained by green chemistry,

DendriclearTM selectively weakens acneic C. acnes strains Dendriclear™ gently reduces
and their biofilm, thus reducing skin inflammation and the appearance of acne lesions
hyperkeratinization. for clear and flawless skin
al or
ur i
Nat
gi
99.95%
n
lucasmeyercosmetics.com

New Ingredients & Technologies
Featuring the latest products, ingredients, technologies, services, data and more
Rovisome Retinol Moist Pro The Kawa Coffee Oil MaizeCare Style Polymer
Evonik The Kawa Project Dow
Rovisome Retinol Moist Pro (INCI: Water The Kawa Coffee Oil contains caffeine, poly- MaizeCare Style Polymer (INCI: Hydrolyzed
(Aqua) (and) Pentylene Glycol (and) Lecithin phenols, palmitic acid, linoleic acid and a coffee Corn Starch) is a bio-based polymer
(and) Alcohol (and) Retinol (and) Polysor- aroma. According to the company, scientific derived from corn starch designed to allow
bate 20 (and) Potassium Phosphate (and) studies have shown that caffeine and polyphe- flexibility in hair care styling; from a stiff
Tocopherol) is a revamped version of the nols are known to provide benefits for the skin hold, to subtle definition and textures in
company’s retinol-like anti-aging ingredi- comparable to rosehip oil, such as wrinkle- wax and spray formulations.
ent. It is designed to provide enhanced prevention, moisturizing and cellulite mitigation.
stability in consumer products that contain
retinol. It not only reduces wrinkles but
improves skin moisturization.
Spectrastat PHL
Inolex
Spectrastat PHL (INCI: Caprylhydroxamic Acid (and)
1,2-Hexanediol (and) Propanediol) provides broad-
spectrum preservation efficacy at pH levels from 4-8
and is ideal for sensitive skin formulations. It is espe-
cially useful in high water solutions and cold-process
applications such as toners, surfactant systems and
wet wipes.
TiO2-NP-1
Nanoland Materials Inc.
TiO2-NP-1 (INCI: Titanium Dioxide (and)
Mearlmica FF Sodium Nitrate (and) Sodium Citrate) is a
BASF Colors & Effects colloidal TiO2 nanoparticle aqueous solu-
Mearlmica FF (INCI: Mica) is a soft, tion that is clear and non-toxic. The TiO2
creamy-textured performance mineral nanoparticle can be used as a sunscreen
made of 100% ethically and sustain- ingredient to provide effective protection
ably sourced natural mica. This mica against UVA and UVB rays without altering
product provides customers with a the color of other components.
talc-alternative when formulating color
cosmetics and personal care applica-
tions, to create a neutral base for a
wide range of colors in matte, shim-
mering and sparkling finishes.
CT2104_New_Ingred_Tech_fcx.indd 12 3/22/21 10:32 AM

Finger Lime Caviar Cellular Extract HYA-ACT Range
Native Extracts DSM
Finger Lime Caviar Cellular extract (INCI: Citrus Australasica DSM’s HYA-ACT range contains three different forms of hyal-
Fruit Extract) offers a combination of water-soluble phytocom- uronic acid: HYA-ACT M, HYA-ACT S and HYA-ACT XS (INCIs:
pounds for natural skin care and has been formulated into Not Provided). Each form provides its own key benefits and
numerous formats to provide relief to a variety of skin issues reportedly delivers the efficacy needed for skin care. The dif-
such as eczema, psoriasis and dehydrated, dry and flaky skin. ferent molecular weights of each ingredient are said to impart
additional benefits.
AdvensCare Range Lipskit

Seqens Cosmetics GoPlay Cosmetics
The AdvensCare range covers a wide variety of applications Lipskit is a DIY liquid lipstick dispenser. This product allows
from preservatives, emollients, emulsifiers and actives, and in- the user to create lip color at home within 20 sec. It features
volves chemistry such as acid chlorides, fatty acids and esters. vegan, cruelty-free and paraben-free color cartridges from
which consumers can create any color in any amount—and in
reusable jars.
ImerCare 6M
Imerys
ImerCare 6M (INCI: Mica) is a
100% natural, COSMOS-ap-
proved mica. In contrast with
a standard mica, ImerCare 6M
has been designed to confer
high cohesiveness in pressed
Omegablue powders while ensuring trans-
Givaudan Active Beauty parency and luminosity that is
Omegablue (INCI: Vaccinium Myrtillus Seed Oil) is a cosmetic suitable for all skin tones. The
ingredient created from upcycled bilberries for advanced skin ingredient is reportedly ideal
repair. The natural has been shown to revert skin dryness, for powder foundations, eye
irritation and desquamation caused by lipid barrier damage. shadows and blushes.
Vol. 136, No. 4 | April 2021 Cosmetics & Toiletries® | 13

New Ingredients & Technologies
CosmoPod Duo Gransense Natural Elastomers Vertasil TM-CBD1

Catalent Grant Industries Inc. Gelest
The CosmoPod Duo capsule features seg- The elastomers provide enhanced compatibility Gelest’s Vertasil TM-CBD1 (INCI: Not
regated compartments to accommodate with commonly used materials such as natural Provided) is a CBD hybrid fluid used
two formulations into a single twist-off oils, surfactants and quats, and may be formulated to increase lubricity, softness and sol-
capsule. This dosing format allows for into most cosmetic vehicles including anhydrous ubility in personal care formulations.
simultaneous application to combine systems, waxes, o/w and w/o emulsions, and even It is said to impart the aesthetics of
ingredients that are either not typically powders. The line includes Gransense TC-11X silicone oil without the greasiness of
compatible together, have a shorter shelf (INCI: Triheptanoin (and) Coco-Caprylate/Caprate natural oils.
life when combined, or that complement (and) Polyurethane-100) and Gransense TC-8X
one another separately but when com- (INCI: Coco-Caprylate/Caprate (and) Triheptanoin
bined, provide higher performance. (and) C9-12 Alkane (and) Polyurethane-100).
Citropol H
P2 Science
Citropol H (INCI: Polycitronellol) is a bio-
renewable, biodegradable and biocompatible
medium-viscosity cosmetics polymer that
offers a viable natural alternative to
dimethicone 350 cPs. Citropol H imparts
a lightweight, velvety feel in personal
care and cosmetic formulations, and is
compatible with skin and hair care,
SantEnergy deodorant/antiperspirant applications
Mibelle Biochemistry and color cosmetics.
SantEnergy (INCI: Eriodictyon Californicum
Extract (and) Propylene Glycol (and) Alcohol
(and) Water (Aqua)) is based on the polyphenol-
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antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, antibacterial and
neuroprotective effects, which can energize hair
follicles and promote hair growth.
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EXPERT
OPINIONS
Full Spectrum
Protection
Mineral Filters, Innate Defense,
Transparency, Sustainabilty,
Inclusivity, Blue Light and More
L
Contributors:
DANNY GOLDSTEIN, PH.D.,
TAGRA BIOTECHNOLOGIES
MIYA YOUNG, SOHO ANECO

CHEMICALS CO., LTD.
MAXIME FOUGERE, ines have drastically blurred over the past

LUBRIZOL LIFE SCIENCE—BEAUTY
decade or more between traditional sunscreens
MARIE PARO, HALLSTAR and skin care, the former affording the latter
LAUREN DELDOTTO, GATTEFOSSÉ
with basic anti-aging and skin health benefits,
among others. UV filters migrated into makeup
HANNAH CWIENKALA,
and hair care, creating complex multifunc-
BASF CARE CREATIONS
tional product offerings for consumers in places where sun care
traditionally did not shine.
CT2104_Expert_Opinions_fcx.indd 16 3/29/21 2:04 PM

And just when it seemed as though are expected to support advances in this space.
sun protection had saturated all relevant The demand for “full spectrum protection”
product categories, science took interest doesn’t stop with SPF, however. The heavy focus
in the effects of infrared (IR) and blue/ on wellness, intensified by COVID-19 and the
visible (VIS) light on skin, identifying related self-care focus, has shifted the consumer
new targets for product developers. mindset toward safety. “‘Safety obsessed’ is
These wavelengths have been the focus the new wellness movement,” Euromonitor
of more recent work by the indus- reported. “The fear of infection and increased
try—especially VIS light, due in part to health awareness drive demand for hygiene
our frequent use of smart devices and products and pushes consumers towards
COVID-19-forced lockdowns, intensify- contactless solutions to avoid exposure.” The
ing our screen time during quarantines. firm added that consumer needs of the “safety
This evolution in full spectrum assessed” will evolve from basic hygiene to
protection is punctuated by the surge in general health.
demand for facial skin care incorporat- As such, consumers want products to bolster
ing anti-blue light ingredients. According their defenses and keep them safe from any
to Future Market Insights (FMI),1 the and all potential threats; from bacterial and
market for these ingredients is projected viruses, to pollution, allergens, stress (including
to expand at a CAGR of 8.3% between UV) and more. They also want it in one, simple
2020-2030. product; a rather tall order.
“Growing adoption of electronic In light of today’s market scenario, it seems
gadgets, from laptops to smartphones, is that “full spectrum protection” takes on new
ensuing in higher exposure of skin to the meaning. It covers exposure to the literal light
blue light released from these devices, spectrum, but also the figurative notion of
this is likely to further expand the global protection against every possible threat to the
blue-light protection ingredients market consumer. Considering the consumer drive for
amid the forecast period,” stated an FMI health and survival, this also circles back to
analyst, according to the report.1
Here, novel approaches to
develop and test products for VIS
Want More Sun Protection?
light protection, along with expand-
Click to page 20 of your April 2020
ing knowledge over the mechanisms
digital magazine for more Expert Opinions.
at work during blue light damage,
http://www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com/DM

Expert Opinions: Full Spectrum Protection
Consumers want sunscreens that have

less impact on the sea environment and
increased sustainability profiles.
effective UV protection for the prevention of if they resolve the esthetics issue, have raised
skin cancer. some safety concerns in mainstream media and
Taken together, full-spectrum protection, by consumers over the risk of skin penetration.
in various interpretations and combinations, Goldstein sees opportunity for the sun
affords new opportunities. Many are explored protection category in the basic necessity
in the following insights from industry experts. for protection. “In front of an aging global
population, and with a growing knowledge
Effective and Eco-conscious of ingredients and increasing concern [for]
Mineral Filters their environmental impact, providing safe
According to Danny Goldstein, Ph.D., vice and effective protection with an attractive look
president of R&D at Tagra Biotechnologies, and feel is [no longer a] ‘nice to have,’ it is a
mineral UV filters are trendy thanks to their ‘must.’ The market must adapt and propose
natural stature and minimum environmental sunscreens with complete protection, and
impact. In addition, their high SPF efficacy, safe and easy-to-use ingredients with limited
broad spectrum protection and photostability environmental impact, allowing [for the formu-
make them very attractive. lation of] aesthetic and compliant products,”
“However, mineral sunscreens, although Goldstein noted.
they have an excellent safety profile, still pres- To deliver safe and effective sunscreens with
ent a challenge to formulate a pleasant sun care proven performance, Tagra offers its mineral
product,” Goldstein writes, “mainly due to the SunCaps microencapsulates. Cellu TitanCap
poorly perceived aesthetics, skin-feel and whit- (INCI: Titanium Dioxide (and) Cellulose Acetate
ening cast associated with them.” Furthermore, Butyrate (and) Butylene Glycol Cocoate) and
nanoparticle forms of mineral sunscreens, even Cellu ZinoCap (INCI: Zinc Oxide (and) Cellulose
DM1 | www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com Vol. 136, No. 4 | April 2021

Acetate Butyrate (and) Butylene Glycol Cocoate) to identify new ways to include sun protection.
are transparent and unbreakable micron-size Technologies supporting these products include
microcapsules in a powder form with 70% the company’s Sunhancer Eco SPF booster
payload. “They are more attractive to both manu- (INCI: Copernicia Cerifera Wax (and) Oryza
facturers and consumers due to their enhanced Sativa Wax), said to reduce the UV filters needed
transparency on skin, improved skin feel, ease in formulations while maintaining the same level
of use and compatibility with other ingredients of skin protection.
while maintaining their efficacy and limited “It is a patent-pending, naturally derived
environmental impact,” Goldstein explained. technology that increases SPF and is compat-
ible with both organic and inorganic sunscreen
Anti-light and actives,” Fougere explained. In addition, the
Protecting the Protectors booster is non-nano, inherently biodegradable
and nonpersistent in the environment. “That
Miya Young, technical support at Soho Aneco
means the ability to reduce the quantity of UV
Chemicals Co., Ltd., sees the improvement of cog-
filters in formulations and potentially lower envi-
nition, the pursuit of beauty and anti-light aging
ronmental impact while maintaining protection
as trends and concerns currently shaping the
from the sun.”
beauty market, driven by market and brand inno-
Moreover, by reducing the levels of UV
vation. Where is there potential in this space?
filters required, the booster is said to improve
With, “composite ingredients and products
sunscreen aesthetics and lightness while reduc-
capable of shielding [against] the full spectrum,”
ing oiliness and whiteness. “Due to its size and
Young writes, also adding the verification of true
shape, the ingredient [also] can impart a pow-
effectiveness, naturality and safety.
dery after-feel to formulations,” Fougere added.
Technologies enabling this future direction
“These additional benefits make it perfect for a
include preparation technologies and natural
daily sunscreen or a multitasking moisturizer
flavonoids such as Aneco’s AC-GR-01 (INCI:
with sun protection.”
Glucosylrutin) ingredient. “Preparation technol-
ogy such as liposomes [and] microcapsules can
protect the anti-light mixed ingredients, so these
ingredients can be better combined and long-
lasting,” Young notes. “Natural flavonoids are
safe and can absorb light very well, [protecting]
the main sunscreen agents.”
Sustainable SPF for

Makeup and Moisturizers
Maxime Fougere, global marketing manager
for Lubrizol Life Science Beauty, shared insights
on sun and light protection in the context of
color cosmetics. “Clean, sustainable products
continue to drive all categories of beauty product
development, including color cosmetics,” Fougere
wrote. “Multi-tasking products that also allow for
eliminating the number of products needed in
daily routines are growing in popularity. And as
it relates to sun protection, consumers want prod-
ucts that have less impact on the sea environment
and increased sustainability profiles. “
Fougere added that as regulations continue
to tighten around the use of UV filters, color
cosmetics that incorporate sun protection,
including foundations and powders, will need
Vol. 136, No. 4 | April 2021 Cosmetics & Toiletries® | DM2

Expert Opinions: Full Spectrum Protection
When it comes to sunlight, UV, Vis and IR increase

the oxidant burden of the skin and deplete its
energetic potential.
Regulations, Photostability sunscreens, regardless of use level, without

and Chromophores requiring the product to be visibly dark on the
Marie Paro, director of brand and market- skin. This challenge can reportedly be resolved
ing communications for Hallstar, considered by the company’s Micah ingredient (INCI:
full spectrum protection in light of regulatory Bis(Cyano Butylacetate) Anthrace¬nediylidene).
limitations. “For sun care brands, recently “[This] enables full spectrum protection by
introduced bans of oxybenzone and octinox- stabilizing skin’s endogenous chromophores
ate in Key West, Florida, Hawaii, and the U.S. and bypassing sunlight-generated oxidative
Virgin Islands (which has also banned a third stress—literally stopping solar-induced prema-
‘o’: octocrylene) limits the UV filters available ture skin aging before it starts,” Paro noted. “At
to sunscreen formulators, particularly for a use level of 0.5%, Micah has been clinically
high SPF products,” she wrote. “Avobenzone proven to prevent 100% of UVA-induced oxida-
is now the only globally-approved chemi- tive stress and DNA damage, and at 0.75%, it
cal UVA1 filter, providing broad spectrum prevents 31% of visible light-induced oxidative
protection against UVA irradiation. However, stress.”
avobenzone is not photostable—leading to
sun protection that is not long lasting.”
Antioxidants and Boosting
In response, the company’s SolaStay S1 Innate Defense
(INCI: Ethylhexyl Methoxycrylene), Poly- Lauren DelDotto, director of the personal
crylene (INCI: Polyester-8) and SolaFresh care division for Gattefossé, underscored where
(INCI: Diethylhexyl 2,6-Naphthalate) serve to the science stands in terms of full spectrum
stabilize avobenzone, enabling “robust, effec- protection. “From UV to screens, to IR [infra-
tive and globally compliant solutions for UVA red]—we’re learning more about the impacts
protection,” Paro explained. “This reduces the of various types of light on the photoaging
use level of UV filters, leaving a lot of formula- of our skin,” she wrote. “When it comes to
tion room for aesthetic engineering.” sunlight, while we mostly focus on the impact
Paro added that unfortunately, protec- of UV, most of the solar radiation is in the VIS
tion against high energy visible light in the [visible]-IR range. Light from all three ranges
blue region cannot be achieved using the increases the oxidant burden of the skin and
same blocking mechanism as traditional depletes its energetic potential.”

Moving forward, DelDotto sees potential Moving forward, Cwienkala sees an oppor-
for this category in terms of protection across tunity for multifaceted protection. “Consumers
a range of exposure types. “We expect to see are rewarding brands that develop multifunc-
more interest in the impact of visible light, with tional skin protection products offering SPF,
products designed to protect consumers from blue light and pollution claims—plus healthy
all types of light—and combining this protec- skin benefits,” she explained. “Brands should
tion into multifunctional formats that protect position these products as daily wear and
from the sun, screens, fluorescent lights and educate consumers around the importance of
even heat-induced skin aging.” skin protection for all skin tones.”
What might enable such types of protection? According to Cwienkala, mineral UV filters
DelDotto believes it starts with antioxidants. such as zinc oxide, which are GRASE by the
“Right now, antioxidants are still the first line FDA, offer broad spectrum protection and can
of defense against light-induced photoaging,” serve as a basis from which to build multifac-
she wrote. “Gatuline Age Defense NP (INCI: eted protection. BASF’s Z-COTE HP1 X (INCI:
Water (Aqua) (and) Juglans Regia (Walnut) Zinc Oxide (and) Triethyoxycaprylylsilane), for
Seed Extract) is a natural active derived from example, is an effective nanopowder for UV
walnuts and proven to protect the skin against protection. To this, formulators can add Ciste’M
both chronological and photoaging by protect- (INCI: Maltodextrin (and) Cistus Monspeliensis
ing the natural cellular antioxidant pool,” Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract) for blue light protec-
she explained. tion or Mimiskin (INCI: Myristyl Myristate
Furthermore, DelDotto sees ingredients (and) Ceteareth-12 (and) Cetearyl Alcohol (and)
that can proactively boost cellular processes to Glyceryl Stearate (and) Glycerin (and) Potas-
protect the skin from VIS and IR light as the sium Cetyl Phosphate) for natural, breathable
future of this category. The company’s Ener- pollution protection.
giNius (INCI: Fructose (and) Glycerin (and)
Water (Aqua) (and) Withania Somnifera Root
Extract) natural active, for example, protects References
the skin against the visible light emitted from 1. Accesswire (2021, Jan 13). Surging demand for facial skin
screens by, “protecting the energetic potential care to drive blue light protection ingredients market, new
of the cell from the harmful effects of long-term report analyses—Future Market Insigts. Available at: https://
apnews.com/press-release/accesswire/business-lifestyle-
exposure,” she wrote. public-health-products-and-services-united-arab-emirates-
b9ef16aba753f5febb13377c6cccbebc
Multifunctional, Safe, 2. Euromonitor International (2021, Jan). Top 10 global
Transparent and Inclusive consumer trends 2021. Available at: https://go.euromonitor.

com/white-paper-EC-2021-Top-10-Global-Consumer-
Hannah Cwienkala, marketing manager of Trends.html
sun and skin care for BASF Care Creations, sees
three key trends driving full spectrum protec-
tion: multifunctionals, safety/transparency and
inclusivity. “COVID-19 increased consumer
awareness of the need for protection not only
from UV rays, but also from blue light and pol-
lution, in addition to supporting healthy skin,”
she wrote. In relation, she added consumers are
simplifying their products and routines. “They
want to invest in products that are safe, effec-
tive and simple.”
With respect to inclusivity, she observed “it’s
no secret there’s a gap in the market for sun
care products designed for and tested on BIPOC
[Black, Indigenous and people of color]. Racial
justice movements last year brought this glaring
need to the fore for the industry.”

Market Intelligence | C&T ®
KEY POINTS
• Skin care has been linked to the
emotional well-being of consumers
from the inside out.
• This leads to innovative skin care that
not only helps with mature features,
but also with mental wellness.
Evoking Emotion
Inside Out
Perceiving Aging Mentally and Physically
Katerina Steventon, Ph.D.

Independent Skincare
Consultancy Ltd., Yorkshire, UK
S kin care adds a new dimension to well-being by evok-
ing positive emotions through scent, texture and feel.
Advances in neuroscience have deepened our under-
standing of how emotions can help to prepare the
body for action, guide decisions and help to prioritize
what should be attended to and remembered. It can
be difficult to turn off or ignore negative emotions and many meditation tutori-
als, books and apps attempt to help us do just that.
Reproduction in English or any other language of

all or part of this article is strictly prohibited.
© 2021 Allured Business Media.
Vol. 136, No. 4 | April 2021
CT2104_Mrkt_Steventon_fcx.indd 18 3/19/21 11:16 AM

Perceived age by oneself and peers is a
factor that can influence self-esteem,
social interactions and well-being.
When negative emotions last for a long The Complexity of Innovation

time, disorders such as depression or anxi-
“The mind-body-beauty connection has never
ety ensue. These emotions are central to
been more pronounced in cosmetics R&D,”
everyday functioning and well-being. While
states Rachel Grabenhofer, the managing editor
with age, physical health, strength and the
of Cosmetics & Toiletries in the January 2021
cognitive mind typically decline and our
editor’s note. Our understanding of the science
social networks shrink, with healthy aging,
behind the skin microbiome; aging in terms of
our emotional well-being may, surprisingly,
inflammation, glycation and autophagy; and the
improve. This is because older individuals
inside-out approach of nutricosmetics is linked
tend to refrain from highly negative emo-
to body health and wellness. Furthermore, body
tional states faster, and are less physically
health and wellness include the circadian rhythm,
and emotionally reactive to interpersonal
mental well-being and emotional stress, and
stress than younger generations.1
daily habits of sun and blue light exposure. All of
Self-care in terms of emotional well-
these factors have drawn great interest from the
being also becomes more important. People
industry to improve product performance and
use anti-aging skin care with an expectation
consumer satisfaction.4
either to look younger or “the best for their
Whether we smile or frown, consumer
age.” Perceived age by oneself and peers is
demands for high-performing anti-aging skin
a factor that can influence self-esteem and
care products are rising. In relation, the scien-
social interactions. Intuition tells us that a
tific community is challenged with added levels
smile makes us look younger, versus a sad
of complexity. Take the skin microbiome, for
facial expression, which is perceived as
one. This relatively newer concept of the living
older. In particular, middle-aged people, in
microflora ecosystem on the skin contributes to
their 40s and 50s, are perceived as either
skin health.
younger or older based on their emotional
To further complicate innovation, skin’s needs
expressions. Interestingly, people some-
and other factors that impact skin health and
times judge others of a similar age better
aging change throughout our life journey—includ-
than other age groups. The first assessment
ing extrinsic environmental and lifestyle factors,
of the face typically entails the quantity
as well as intrinsic factors. To help deepen our
and depth of wrinkles, skin texture and
understanding of how these factors impact the
face shape.2
skin and identify molecular conjunction pathways
The globally devastating effects of
for each, Oriflame is one company that has built
COVID-19 impact our interaction and
a digital model based on system biology using
communication as well, particularly with
bioinformatics tools.5 The goal is to show, holisti-
the advent of mask-wearing and increasing
cally, “the collective effect of the key influencers”
virtual interactions. The mask has become
on skin aging mechanisms, in order to design
a semi-permanent accessory to the face,
strategies for the improvement of skin health.
blocking our ability to express and perceive
each other’s facial expressions. It truly divides
the face into a visible top and invisible bot- Want more from
tom half that significantly restricts our ability this author?
to accurately interpret emotions based on
For, “Evoking Emotion: Deeper Than Skin,”
facial expressions. Additionally, it strengthens
check out page 16 in your
our perceptions of negative emotions pro- January 2021 digital magazine.
duced by frowning.3

Inside Out
This “skin interactome” model can

serve as an advanced tool to understand
the molecular genesis of skin aging,
balancing the influence of the exposome
and microbiome to protect, prevent and
delay the appearance of skin aging and
preserve good skin health.
Khmaladze, et al., of Oriflame R&D,
stated, “This model is considering both
the positive and negative impact of our
genome (genes, age/gender), exposome:
external (sun, pollution, climate) and
lifestyle factors (sleep, stress, exercise,
nutrition, skin care routine), as well as
More consumers are participating in the inside-out approach with nutricosmetics for body
the role of our skin microbiome.”5
health and wellness benefits.
Understanding external triggers
as well as the modulation of intrinsic aging
study, Shiseido advocated a lymphatic approach
pathways, this model will aid in identifying
to alleviate the accumulation of age-related
and optimizing skin treatment targets and
inflammatory factors (IL-8) that damage epider-
technologies. As collagen decline with aging is
mal stem cells and accelerate cell aging.6 Prior to
significant, this model was first used to under-
that, the company elucidated the mechanism of
stand the effect of the genome in the synthesis
skin sagging: swelling due to impaired lymphatic
of collagen and external triggers, and to identify
function, associated with an increase and accu-
a suitable target for boosting pro-collagen
mulation of subcutaneous fat.7
synthesis and modulate the intrinsic pathways.5
Even when the industry endeavors to incor-
porate actives to enhance product efficacy, in
Holistic, Sensory lieu of physical treatments, research into sensory
Perceptions in Aging perceptions should be at the forefront of innova-
Asian R&D leads the way in mind-body tion. Skin feel after product application and
research, culturally anchored in a holistic associated touch remain unpublished areas of
approach to the body. For example, in a recent research. Aging affects the perception of touch
and skin care products. With age, the skin’s
capacity is reduced to capture stimuli from
the environment, impacting the sensa-
tion of touch due to impaired peripheral
sensory function, a reduced number of
mechanoreceptors, and a decrease in
the conduction velocity of peripheral
nerves.8 Indeed, there is a neurological
loss in tactile perceptions and texture
feels different; i.e., roughness-smoothness,
hardness-softness, stickiness-slipperiness
and warm-cold.
However, the reduced ability to dis-
criminate textures such as fine texture,
moisture and elasticity associated with
aging can be remedied through rehydra-
tion.9 This is great news for skin care;
alongside tangible physiological benefits,
pleasant attributes conveying soothing or
comforting feelings are reparative in the
context of tactile acuity and bring well-
It has been found that most age-related skin concerns can be remedied through rehydration, being to the whole body.10
creating tangible physiological benefits in consumers.

Summary
Consumer demand for anti-aging skin care that performs continues
to rise as the science behind the skin microbiome; aging in terms of
inflammation, glycation and autophagy; and the inside-out approach of
nutricosmetics is linked to body health and wellness. Notably, skin needs
and factors that impact skin health and aging change throughout one’s life
journey—from environmental and lifestyle factors, to intrinsic factors.
The skin interactome concept model could serve as an advanced tool
to understand the molecular genesis of skin aging, balancing the influ-
ence of the exposome and microbiome to protect, prevent and delay the
appearance of skin aging and preserve good skin health. Furthermore,
understanding external triggers, as well as the modulation of intrinsic
aging pathways, could help to identify and optimize novel skin treatment
targets and technologies.
Finally, through rehydration, the typical factors associated with aging
(loss of moisture, elasticity, etc.) can improve the feelings of aging, inside
out. This is great news for skin care as its physiological effects have been
shown to benefit the well-being of consumers.
References
1. Mather, M. (2012, Mar). The emotion paradox in the aging brain. Ann NY Acad Sci 1251(1)
33-49. https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3395773/
2. Hass, N.C., Weston, T.D. and Lim, S-L. (2016). Be happy not sad for your youth: The effect of
emotional expression on age perception. PLoS One 11(3). https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/
articles/PMC4814130/
3. Nestor, M.S., Fischer, D. and Arnold, D. (2020, Sep). “Masking” our emotions: Botulinum toxin,
facial expression, and well-being in the age of COVID-19. J Cosmet Dermatol 19(9). https://
pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/32592268/
4. Grabenhofer, R. (2021, Jan 1). Editor’s note: Mind-body-beauty. Cosmet Toilet 136(1) 6.
https://www.cosmeticsandtoiletries.com/marketdata/segments/Editors-Note-Mind-Body-
Beauty-573492241.html
5. Khmaladze, I., et al. (2020, Dec 24). The skin interactome: A holistic “genome-microbiome-
exposome” approach to understand and modulate skin health and aging. Clin Cosmet Investig
Dermatol 13 1021-1040. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/33380819/
6. Grabenhofer, R. (2020, Nov 25). Shiseido uncovers IL-8 skin damage, points to lymphatic skin
care approach. Cosmet Toilet. https://www.cosmetic¬sandtoiletries.com/research/biology/
Shiseido-Uncovers-IL8-Skin-Damage-Points-to-Lymphatic-Skin-Care-Approach_573191601.
html
7. Shiseido becomes the first to reveal the relationship between impaired lymphatic function and
“sagging” skin: Discovery of lymphatic function-enhancing “pine cone extra.” (2015). Shiseido.
https://corp.shiseido.com/en/releimg/2455-e.pdf
8. Di Mambro, V.M., Brohem, C.A. and Lorencini, M. (2017) Influence of ageing on senso-
rial perception of skin care products. Textbook of Ageing Skin 1929-1936. https://doi.
org/10.1007/978-3-662-47398-6_141
9. Skedung, L., El Rawadi, C., Arvidsson, M., Farcet, C., Luengo, G.S., et al. (2018, Apr 19).
Mechanisms of tactile sensory deterioration amongst the elderly. Scientific Reports 8(5303).
https://www.nature.com/articles/s41598-018-23688
10. Guest, S., McGlone, F., Hopkinson, A. and Schendel, Z.A. (2013, Jan). Perceptual and sensory-
functional consequences of skin care products. J Cosmet Deramatol Sci App 3(1A) 66-78.
https://www.researchgate.net/publication/234793336_Perceptual_and_Sensory-Functional_
Consequences_of_Skin_Care_Products
Want more from this author?
For, “Evoking Emotion: All Judgements Aside,” check

out page DM7 in your May 2020 digital magazine.

Research | C&T ®
KEY POINTS
• This paper reviews assistive technologies
developed for the blind and visually
impaired (VI) relevant to shopping for
cosmetics, as well as applications and
systems to enable the choice of products.
• It also reports the outcomes of a survey

exploring the shopping and product use
of cosmetics by VI and blind individuals,
including qualitative data that suggests the
use of cosmetics among this population
could be encouraged in several ways,
outlined herein.
Peer-reviewed

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article is&strictly
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CT2104_Research_Daniels_fcx.indd 24 3/29/21 2:15 PM

Inclusive
Beauty Making Cosmetics More Accessible for
the Blind and for Visually Impaired Consumers
Akriti Pradhan, University College London (UCL), London, UK

Gabriela Daniels, London College of Fashion (LCF), London, UK
A ssistive technology
refers to a field of
technology that aids
or assists individu-
als in a multitude
of different ways:
from the completion of daily chores
to travel and education. Typi-
cally, assistive technology is
designed for individuals with
impairments or disabilities
but if the technology is
mately 2.2 billion visually impaired (VI) or
blind individuals globally.1 Visual impairments
can range from color blindness and presbyopia
to glaucoma. In addition, vision deteriorates
with age. Given the immense range of visual
impairments, and that their degree of sever-
ity can vary from person to person, visual
impairment and blindness is a niche issue that
requires a diverse range of options and the
personalization of assistive technologies.
There are two schools of thought in relation
to disability management: medical and social
inclusive, it can be used by models of disability. The medical model has
the wider population. focused primarily on the impairment and
The World Health Orga- rehabilitation of the disabled individual,
nization reports that, as of rather than the improvement of their environ-
2020, there were approxi- ment and the elimination of social barriers.
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Inclusive Beauty
Motivations for blind and VI users of makeup

and lipstick included: feeling good and more
'put together;' sighted people saying it looks
good; and giving the face color and definition.
The social model, on the other hand, aims to Studies show that facial attractiveness influ-
empower the individual by giving them the inde- ences overall physical attractiveness more than
pendence, equal accessibility and social benefits body type or physique, and decorative cosmet-
to seamlessly integrate into society.2 ics (makeup) assist individuals in temporarily
Some experts in disability studies say that altering their appearance and facial features
the social model of disability is yet to penetrate to heighten facial attractiveness.7-9 For the VI
the employment and labor market because a and blind consumer, carrying out a beauty or
large focus is still on the individual’s impair- skin care regimen is not as straightforward as
ment.3 At the same time, disabled consumers it is for sighted individuals, not only because
are often overlooked by consumer brands and self-appearance is subjective and requires some
retailers alike. degree of personal judgement, but also because
In relation, the Purple Pound refers to the facial makeup is heavily reliant upon color.
spending power of disabled households in the Nonetheless, blind individuals have been
UK. According to Vogue UK, “The cosmetic found to pay a great deal of attention to their
industry has mostly overlooked this £249 billion appearance because they know people around
(~US $347.6 billion) consumer market [of them can see them. Yet an obvious and major
disabled users].”4 Although this term is not used problem for completely blind users is that there
in the United States, the disabled household is no way for them to check or confirm their
disposable income in this region is still signifi- appearance; hence “blind people rely on sighted
cant, amounting to $490 billion.5 or partially sighted people to act as their mir-
rors. And what’s more, sighted people are not
Importance of Cosmetics exactly ‘reliable’ mirrors.”10
Cosmetics have historically played a role in Reducing the reliance of blind and VI
“women's consumer culture (as) a means of self- consumers on sighted people, friends and family
reinvention and transformation, and allow[ed] could help them to achieve a more independent
women to articulate different aspects of the life. And combining cosmetic and assistive
self.”6 However, there is not much reporting on technologies can make beauty more inclusive
cosmetics for disabled individuals, and much by empowering disabled individuals and giv-
less on VI and blind individuals. This could be ing them an equal opportunity to experience
due to the specific challenges each disability makeup and grooming independently.
group has and each individual’s unique experi- Recently, some cosmetic brands have started
ence with cosmetics. to address the lack of inclusivity in the industry.
For example, some have focused on giving the
consumer better control during application11, 12
while L’Occitane13 has designed Braille packag-
The market for assistive technologies for the ing for its products, which is helpful for VI and
visually impaired is set to reach US ~$6.5 blind consumers who can read Braille.
billion by 2028, up from US ~$4.1 billion in There are currently very few products
or services combining assistive technology
2019, expanding at a CAGR of 7.8%.
and cosmetics but the general trend toward
personalization could be a driver of future
Source: ResearchandMarkets developments. Hence, this paper explores
two questions:

• What assistive technologies and cosmetic The survey was designed and launched on
technologies are available to the VI or blind Microsoft Forms in July 2020 and was left open
consumer? for responses for two weeks post-publishing.
• What design considerations for cosmetic Descriptive data analysis was conducted via
purchases and use can be potentially Microsoft Excel while the qualitative data from
implemented to support the VI and blind the survey was examined using the principles of
consumers? thematic analysis.
Methods Results:
A combination of a semi-systematic litera- Semi-systematic Review
ture review and primary data collection via a
The two rounds of searching produced
small online survey was applied. The review
approximately 200 abstracts and other articles,
aimed to answer the first research question
and 12 web pages. These were reviewed against
while the purpose of the survey was to answer
the inclusion and exclusion criteria and the
the second research question.
final number of papers considered was 31. The
Semi systematic review: The following
results were grouped into five categories of spe-
databases were searched: ACM Digital Library,
cialized assistive technologies, described next,
Cochrane Library, IEEE Xplore, Spie Digital
and one of the cosmetic technologies to assist
Library, NCBI, Research Gate and Elsevier
blind and VI consumers, described later.
ScienceDirect and KOSMET. A generic internet
1. Navigation toward and within the
search was also conducted to find articles that
cosmetic store: The first step in cosmetic use
provided information on cosmetics designed for
is buying the product, either in-store or online.
VI or blind users or disabled-friendly brands.
Tasks that VI and blind individuals typically
The key search terms combining both fields—
undertake around in-store shopping were
i.e., assistive technologies and cosmetics—are
identified as: “shopping list preparation, getting
presented in the word cloud in Figure 1. 1
to the supermarket [or store], finding products
The inclusion criteria were: peer-reviewed
in-store, getting to cash registers, paying, getting
papers, business articles,
conference presentations
and posters. Also, all sources
must have been published in
English from the year 2000 to
the current date. Studies based
on sighted participants (unless
related to cosmetics) and
studies on populations < 18
were excluded. The process of
searching, search term expan-
sion and data retrieval followed
two iterative phases and is
illustrated in Figure 2.
2
Survey: Participants were
recruited from previous
University College London
(UCL) studies, the Global
Cooperation on Assistive
Health Technology (GATE)
community, and the World
Blind Union—a sight loss
organization. The survey was
approved by the UCL Research
Ethics Committee (Ethics
Figure 1. Search terms for data acquisition in the
literature review
number: UCLIC_1920_006).

Inclusive Beauty
to the exit, getting home.” These tasks required familiarizing themselves with the site via the use
an assistive system incorporating “mobile of screen readers.20
product selection, store navigation, product 2. Finding the product: Finding the right
search, product identification, utilization of cosmetic product depended on previous experi-
existing devices and minimal environment ence at the store, guidance by sales assistants,
adjustment.”14 A range of navigation systems technology embedded in the store or assistive
were identified, all aiming at providing devices in possession of the individual. The
real-time guidance at the start of the shop- technologies identified were either based on text
ping experience. Ranging from smartphone recognition or visual feature detection for the
applications to navigation robots, the systems’ identification of products on the shelves.21-24
common outputs were cues via sounds or 3. Obtaining product information and
verbal instructions.15-19 reading labels: This process involved choosing
In-store shopping is a different experience the specific product to meet the needs of the
to online shopping, and the type of content and consumer, which could present challenges if a
website accessibility features are important for number of similar alternatives are available. The
the VI or blind user’s online shopping experi- identified technologies were reliant on smart
ence. Experience with online stores appeared mobile applications using text or barcode read-
under-researched, however; one study on blind ing and converting the information to real-time
individuals’ interactions with visual content audio or tactile feedback.24, 25
on social networks ascertained that they first 4. Finding and using products at home:
relied on web accessibility features and then on It is assumed that a VI or blind person would
the people around them. This study highlighted be able to locate objects at home following
that VI and blind users sought independence personalized home environment principles.
and self-reliance but generally relied more on However, object detection systems to locate and
family and less on friends. Finally, the study identify products at home have been reported.24
highlighted that newly designed sites with In addition, artificial intelligence (AI)-enabled
fewer accessibility features forced blind users personal assistants such as the Apple HomePod
to invest a lot of time in understanding and or Amazon Alexa devices allow human interac-
Figure 2. Literature search flow chart

Combining cosmetic
and assistive
technologies, e.g.,
Braille packaging,
can empower the
blind or VI individuals
and give them an
equal opportunity to
experience makeup
and grooming
independently.
tion based on different sensory modalities via eye products or bleeding of lipstick arise with
multi-modal dialogue processing. This means makeup use. To overcome these challenges,
that VI or blind users could use input modes smartphone applications connecting VI and
such as body movement or speech to interact blind individuals with sighted volunteers were
with the personal assistant, which could assist identified. Based on video calls, these enabled a
with locating cosmetic products.26 sighted person to observe and provide feedback
5. Cosmetic application by VI and blind to the VI or blind person as to how “ready”
users: Applying cosmetic products—makeup, (makeup or hair) he/she is. For example, a
in particular, requires precision and technique popular free app is BeMyEyes28 while Aira29 is
that, depending on the severity of vision loss, an on-demand service including, among other
can differ significantly from person to person. options, a similar mobile application.
Support organizations were identified that While the above technologies and services
specialize in assisting blind and VI users of reduce reliance on friends and family, further
cosmetics. VisionAware,27 for example, an automation is now possible due to advances
organization that encourages independent in computer vision and AI. The conversion
living after sight loss, emphasized the use of of visual information into auditory feedback
systematic routine and suggested numerous is already being used for wayfinding (see #1,
tried-and-tested makeup application techniques “Navigation toward and within the cosmetic
for individuals living with visual impairments store,” above). The first-ever assistive technol-
or blindness. An example of a makeup appli- ogy focused on makeup for the blind and VI
cation sequence was: “cleanse, moisturize consumers described a process of lip recogni-
[and] (apply) foundation, powder, blush, eye tion from a face image, followed by auditory
makeup, lipstick.” feedback on the lipstick color and application.30
However, various issues such as mismatched A more recent and innovative approach was
foundation or concealer color, the running of sonification: the transformation of shape and

Inclusive Beauty
color into sound and specifically into a musical consumers, too; but the accessibility of such
format for visual rehabilitation.31 apps and websites needs improvement (see
Finally, two excellent and still relevant gen- Figures 3 and 4).
eral reviews into assistive technologies for blind Another driver for product customization is
individuals emphasized that blind and VI people skin diagnostics for the choice of skin care.38-41
only used technologies that directly met their These systems were focused on wrinkle, pigmen-
specific needs. Therefore, user-centered design tation and other skin characteristics and could
is crucial.32 An exponential growth of research help the consumer in the choice of products
in several fields such as mobility; multisensory and routine, as well as provide some feedback
research and sensory substitutions; accessible on the effect of the chosen skin care over time.
content; and user interface are all expected to In summary, such applications could reduce the
contribute to the recent rapid developments in reliance on sales assistants or friends and family
this field.33 for the choice of off-the-shelf products but they
should be generally accessible.
Cosmetic Personalization
Technologies Additional Technologies
The drive toward more personalized cosmet- Identified
ics is a key enabler for VI and blind consumers In addition to the peer-reviewed papers,
who face challenges with the accessibility of relevant technologies were identified either on
information and advice related to the choice the market or presented at technology shows
and successful application of cosmetics. To date, that went a step further from providing custom-
there are two well-developed streams of cos- ized product suggestions. These were reliant
metic technology: skin and makeup diagnostics on a specialized diagnostic device, or on taking
via selfies or via a purpose-built device (some- instruction from the user to manufacture a
times wearable). product that is a true match to the consumer’s
Both approaches aim to substitute, or better, needs and/or preferences. Some examples of
and to widen access to the personalized advice such technologies were: Proctor & Gamble’s
traditionally offered by trained sales advisers. Opté Wand,42 a device detecting various facial
In the past, such a service was viewed as quite spots and applying a serum to conceal and
exclusive and with variable quality, with the repair the skin; a 3D printing technology for
most advanced techniques being the point-of- makeup by a company called Mink;43 and
sale use of measurement devices, only available Lancôme's custom-made foundation Le Teint
in certain locations. To increase personalized Particulier.44 Beyond skin care and makeup,
service accessibility, platforms using selfie Wella’s e-salon hair treatments45 and Kérastase
images as a base for foundation color-matching brand hairbrush offered customization in
have been developed by a number of brands. hair care.46
This technology was reported back in 2010,34 Lastly, while the above examples illustrated
with one of the key considerations remaining the expansion of AI in cosmetic product custom-
the image quality and the need for a color refer- ization, the pace of progress appeared relatively
ence chart in the photo, in order for the AI to slow. Two explanations for this are that: beauty
process the image colors correctly. lies in the eye of the beholder, and the experi-
Methods for projections of full makeup ence of a cosmetic product is multisensory and
applications on a face have been reported, too. evolves—hence, training algorithms to support
These range from complete makeup generation or mimic human judgment is not an easy task.
using a human face avatar,35 and transfer-
ring image characteristics from a (desirable Results: Survey Responses
model) to the face (image) of the consumer,36 Twelve individuals between the ages of 18
to entirely computer-generated makeup sugges- and 65+ with varying degrees of visual impair-
tions for human images.37 At the core of these ment or blindness completed the survey. Five
technologies is the use of ubiquitous mobile participants fell within the age group of 45-54
phone cameras, which is a key for VI and blind while the remaining individuals’ ages were

evenly distributed in the remaining decade products easier than shopping online (mean
groups. Table 1 reports the responses to values = 3.33 vs 4.08). Also, the percentage of
questions related to the ease of shopping for responses considered positive, meaning the
cosmetic products in-store and online. The par- shopping experience was “not difficult” (based
ticipants rated shopping in-store for cosmetic on ratings of 1, 2 and 3) further contrasted the
Figure courtesy of Jang, I.-S., from ETRI Journal, http://dx.doi.org/10.4218/etrij.13.2013.0079
Figure 3. Color management process in makeup simulation system
Figure courtesy of Jang, I.-S., from ETRI Journal, http://dx.doi.org/10.4218/etrij.13.2013.0079
Figure 4. Makeup color reproduction results in 3D simulation system

Inclusive Beauty
in-store and online experiences (50% vs 16.7%). my face; gives me color; wear (it) when going out;
The way that product information was iden- sighted people have said it looks good.
tified and used in-store was rated as moderately The other popular choice, foundation,
difficult (3.75%). Seven out of 12 people listed was used mainly for special occasions, and
using shop assistants as the most common way challenges relating to the choice of color and
to select the right product, while four relied blending were mentioned. Using fingers for
on the advice of friends and family, and one application was preferred. The average rating
on the product information provided on the for ease of use of cosmetics (eight users) was
packaging. Open-ended questions returned the 3.4, and 2/3 of the responses were between 1
following main themes, which were related to (easy) and 3 (neutral or not difficult). Some of
the difficulties experienced by the VI consumers: the challenges noted with the use of makeup
accessibility of information, especially online; products were: uneven application (foundations
color or product identification, packaging and and lipstick); the likelihood of error in applying
familiarity; human intervention; and personal and removing; cannot see the result.
preference (see Table 2).
2
The use of color cosmetics was then explored Discussion
in more detail. Three survey participants did not The review part of this research identified
use makeup. Those who used makeup ranked the most progress in supporting VI and blind
the following most-used makeup products (see people in the shopping experience, with naviga-
Table 3).
3 Foundation and lipstick were the most tion assistance and product information readers
commonly used makeup products, with lipstick being among the most common technologies.
being the most commonly selected as number These technologies were not specific to cosmetic
one. The range of products listed suggests that shopping but would enhance it, too, and are
product format and application are not a defin- important in the context of the survey data
ing factor in the decision to wear makeup. suggesting that in-store experiences are easier
In an open-ended question asking for and consequently, the more likely way of shop-
the choice of makeup, the following themes ping. At the same time, cosmetic brands should
emerged: ease of use, familiarity, color and other consider making product information in-store
sensory performance. Environmentally-friendly more accessible, specifically in the context of
products were also named (see Table 4). 4 constantly updated packaging and artwork.
The motivation for using makeup was Technologies for face recognition as well as
explored further and the following key themes image analysis and manipulations were identi-
were cited: feeling more put together, more fied as enabling sighted consumers to receive
feminine, more professional; that’s what sighted more personalized product advice or predic-
people do, sighted people say it looks good; feels tion/feedback on the way the product would
good, part of my daily grooming routine. The fol- look/work from the AI. While this is exactly
lowing reasons were given for lipstick—the most what VI and blind consumers need in order
commonly used product: gives more definition to to boost their independence in choosing and
using cosmetics, the online
shopping and usage websites
Table 1. Results from the online survey questions on how were specifically noted in the
easy it is to: Q1 = shop online; Q2 = shop in store; Q3 = select primary research as being
the right products in store; 1 = very easy; 5 = very difficult. difficult. The accessibility
requirements for website and
app design should therefore
Q1 Q2 Q3 become a prime consider-
Mean 4.08 3.33 3.75 ation for cosmetic brands if
they were to encourage the
Standard deviation 1.19 1.25 1.23
engagement of the VI and
Median 4.50 3.50 4.00 blind consumers and facili-
% Positive responses tate their product choices.
16.70% 50.00% 33.30%
(i.e., 1, 2 or 3) The survey data suggested
that VI and blind consum-

Table 2. Qualitative data analysis of the free text responses to open-ended questions
Answers to “main difficulties you experience with shopping for

Themes
grooming products”
Accessibility to information “Lack of easily accessible information”
Accessibility to information “Knowing the ingredients”
“Websites are dynamic and cluttered and not screen reader
Accessibility to information
accessible/friendly”
Accessibility to information “Websites are very visual with pictures and very little description.”
“Inaccessibility of specialty store websites and face-to-face shopping
Accessibility to information
process”
Accessibility to information “Access information of what’s available to make informed choices”
“It is hard to identify colors of product and skin-matching of products
Color or product identification
from the online descriptions.”
“With my vision, I can usually find the general aisle in-store but then
identifying the specific products apart from each other is difficult,
Color or product identification and also between brands due to reading difficulties. With online,
using magnification on devices makes it a slow process scrolling
through the various products once you have done a search.”
“Finding the correct color for makeup and lipsticks is impossible
Color or product Identification
for me.”
Human intervention “Some shop assistants are not familiar with cosmetics.”
Packaging and familiarity “The ever-changing packaging”
“It is often not possible to handle products as they are only from an
Packaging and familiarity
online store only.”
“I want to use products that are in environmentally-friendly containers
Personal preferences and they are often not available from places I go with my partner,
such as supermarkets.”
“I probably am not good at finding new products; I use tried and true
Personal preferences
products.”
Table 3. The top three most-used makeup products as ranked by the participants
Frequency of responses placing % of selected in % of selected

products in the top three most top three choice as a first choice
commonly used (out of 24) (out of 24) (out of 8)
Lipstick 7 29.17% 75%

Foundation 7 29.17% 0%
Blusher/bronzer 4 16.67% 0%
Eyebrow gel/pencil 2 8.33% 0%
Eyeliner/eyeshadow 2 8.33% 25%

Inclusive Beauty
Enabling the blind and VI consumers to enjoy the purchase and use of cosmetics includes developing personalization technologies
and applications that are capable of providing a service, such as real-time feedback, on a product’s use and advice.
ers need products that are functional and easy product quality with the accessibility of product
to use. The ease of use from the perspective of information, in-store and online, could therefore
such consumer requires further investigation, as increase brand loyalty further. This creates a
it is a decisive factor and should include holistic business case for the long-term commitment of
design considerations of the product format, brands to personalization technologies that are
applicators and packaging. inclusive from the start.
According to the surveyed consumers, they
use makeup at the right time, and product Conclusion
performance such as color, even application, Blind and VI cosmetic consumers are a very
long-lasting effects, scent and texture were niche group; however, the literature review and
important, alongside the key priorities of ease small survey described here suggest they are
of use and familiarity. These expectations are interested in using cosmetics and are currently
universal and should be explored further from making use of friends, family and apps to enable
the perspective of ease of application and tech- themselves to choose and apply products.
niques that are helpful to these consumers; for Enabling such consumers to engage and
example, foundation blending or the softness enjoy the purchase and use of cosmetics can be
of lipsticks. viewed as a two-stage process: 1) considering
Currently, VI and blind users rely on their product characteristics, packaging and labeling,
familiarity with a cosmetic brand, which as well as in-store and online displays from the
includes the complex sensory profile and perspective of a blind or VI user, placing acces-
perceived quality and reliability of the product sibility at the core of a brand; and 2) developing
as well as the actual handling. Combining personalization technologies and applications

Table 4. Reasons for choosing makeup or grooming products, provided as free text
Answers to “main difficulties you experience with shopping for

Themes
grooming products”
Ease of use in terms of
“I don’t like taking ages when applying makeup.”
time spent
“Because I am blind, ease of use and scent are important; a good brand
Ease of use/allergies for my allergies. The rest, a low price I guess is good for my budget,
the rest doesn't apply.”
Ease of use “Ease of access and practical”
“If it is hard to use, I won't bother. I am definitely a brand person. There
Ease of use/familiarity/
is no point in using something that is the wrong color. I'd rather go
color
without than get it wrong.”
“I don’t use makeup but if I did, familiarity would be the reason; [just] as
Familiarity
I do with skin care products.”
“Given I mainly use lipstick and blush, color is the top reason. These
Ease of use/color/long-
products for me are most easily applied, so also why I use them,
lasting
primarily, and I like things that last.”
“...I therefore go with products that I enjoy, and I enjoy products that
have appealing textures and scents. I like quality products and if
Texture/scent/long-lasting/
they are long-lasting, it is likely they will be high quality. Although not
environmentally friendly
stated as a choice here, I also prefer to get environmentally friendly
products.”
that are capable of providing a service to blind 4. Hersh, M. and Johnson, M.A. (2010). Assistive Technology
for Visually Impaired and Blind People. Springer Science &
and VI users, such as real-time feedback on a Business Media, New York p 743.
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The former is within the capacity of many Thirty years on. Available at: https://doi.org/10.1080/09687
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such consumers. The latter is intertwined with 6. Jacson, L. (2019, Sep 17). The rise of disability friendly
beauty brands. Available at: https://www.vogue.co.uk/
a move by the industry toward more technologi- beauty/article/the-rise-of-disability-friendly-beauty-brands
cally advanced and inclusive beauty. 7. DiverseAbility (Accessed 2021, Mar 3). The buying power of
people with disabilities. Available at: https://diverseability-
Acknowledgments: The authors would like to thank magazine.com/2018/09/buying-power-people-disabilities/
Youngjun Cho, Ph.D., from UCL for his support with the 8. Liu, C., Keeling, D.I. and Hogg, M.K. (2016, Jan 1). Strategy
survey preparation and result analysis, and Prof. Danka narratives and wellbeing challenges: The role of everyday
Tamburic, Ph.D., from LCF for her review of this paper. self-presentation. Available at: http://www.sciencedirect.
com/science/article/pii/S0148296315003276
9. Korichi, R., Pelle-De-Queral, D., Gazano, G. and Aubert, A.
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building service robots to guide blind people a participatory analysis. Electronic Imaging (14) 357-1-357–6.
design approach. In: 2016 11th ACM/IEEE International 39. Yu, P., Li, X., ... Hakozaki, T., et al. (2019, May 22). Inter-
Conference on Human-Robot Interaction (HRI) 3-10. and intra-observer agreement in dermatologists’ diagnoses
22. Kulyukin, V.A. and Gharpure, C. (2006). Ergonomics-for-one of hyperpigmented facial lesions and development of an
in a robotic shopping cart for the blind. Available at: http:// algorithm for automated diagnosis. Available at: https://
portal.acm.org/citation.cfm?doid=1121241.1121267 onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/abs/10.1111/srt.12717
23. Alhalabi, W. and Attas, D. (2016). Toward device assisted 40. Flament, F., Lee, Y.W., ... Jiang, R., et al. (2020, Jul 20).
identification of grocery store sections and items for the The continuous development of a complete and objective
visually impaired. Available upon request through Research- automatic grading system of facial signs from selfie pictures:
Gate at: https://bit.ly/3dZOceS Asian validation study and application to women of three
ethnic origins, differently aged. Available at: https://onlineli-
24. Devi, P., Saranya, B., Abinayaa, B., Kiruthikamani, G. and brary.wiley.com/doi/abs/10.1111/srt.12922
Geethapriya, N. (2016). Wearable aid for assisting the blind.
Available at: https://bit.ly/3bRZX4k 41. Kaneko, K., Toyoda, N, and Mizugaki, M. (2019). Proposal
for personalized consultation to predict future skin condi-
25. Jabnoun, H., Benzarti, F. and Amiri, H. (2017, Mar 17). A tions using skin transition patterns: Exploring “My Very Own
new method for text detection and recognition in indoor Skincare.” 2019 IFSCC Congress.
scene for assisting blind people. Available at: https://bit.
ly/3uS0pby 42. Procter and Gamble. (Accessed 2021, Mar 3). P&G web-
site. Available at: https://www.pg.co.uk/
26. Chincha, R. and Tian, Y. (2011). Finding objects for blind
people based on SURF features. In: 2011 IEEE International 43. Mink. (Accessed 2021, Mar 3). Create makeup on demand.
Conference on Bioinformatics and Biomedicine Workshops Available at: https://www.minkbeauty.com/
(BIBMW) 526-7. 44. Le Teint Particulier. (Accessed 2021, Mar 3). Le Teint
27. Shilkrot, R., Huber, J., Liu, C., Maes, P. and Nanayakkara, Particulier custom foundation. Available at: https://www.
S.C. (2014, Apr). A wearable text-reading device for the lancome.co.uk/discover-lancome/le-teint-particulier/
visually-impaired. Available at: http://dl.acm.org/citation. 45. Wella. (Accessed 2021, Mar 3). Custom hair color made
cfm?doid=2559206.2579520 by your personal colorist. Available at: https://www.esalon.
28. Këpuska, V. and Bohouta, G. (2018). Next-generation of com/personal-colorist-online-offer
virtual personal assistants (Microsoft Cortana, Apple Siri, 46. Kérastase. (Accessed 2021, Mar 3). Kérastase Paris
Amazon Alexa and Google Home). In: 2018 IEEE 8th Annual website. Available at: https://bit.ly/3sQrBFP
Computing and Communication Workshop and Conference
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29. VisionAware (Accessed 2021, Mar 3). VisionAware website.
Available at: https://visionaware.org/

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Research | C&T ®
KEY POINTS
• Anti-aging care has mainly focused on the
face, neglecting concerns for aging skin on
other areas of the body.
• This article reviews biological changes

with age that occur in non-facial skin, for
potential body care product development.
Body BeautySponsored by:

®
Insights into Non-facial Skin Aging
H
BIO-BOTANICA® INC.
Remona Gopaul
Sanofi Consumer Healthcare, Bridgewater, New Jersey, U.S.
Skin Aging
istorically, the Skin aging on all parts of the body is caused by
primary focus for both intrinsic and extrinsic factors. As is well-
anti-aging skin known, intrinsic aging is a natural chronological,
care has been the physiological process influenced by genetics,
face; although ethnicity, hormones and anatomical variations.
some research On the other hand, extrinsic aging is stimulated by
publications, consumer education and products external environmental factors such as pollution,
have targeted aging skin needs on other body smoking, sun exposure, repetitive muscle move-
sites, including the neck, chest, arms, hands ment, poor nutrition and other lifestyle choices.1
and legs. With the rising cultural shift to total Based on the anatomical site, the skin may be
body well-being, the needs of body skin have affected by both intrinsic and extrinsic factors in
emerged as a trend that may be here to stay. varying capacities.2 This is notably the case for
This review focuses on non-facial skin aging non-facial skin, which may be less exposed to
considerations and implications for developing environmental factors and extrinsic aging but is
efficient products targeting this unmet con- heavily influenced by the physiology of the loca-
sumer need. tion of the skin on the body.
facebook.com/CandTmagazine Cosmetics & Toiletries @cosmeticsandtoiletries

26 | www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com all or part of this article is strictly prohibited. Vol. 136, No. 4 | April 2021
CT2103_Research_GoPaul_fcx.indd 26 3/19/21 11:42 AM

Vol. 136, No.
Reproduction 4 | April
in English other language of all or part of this article is strictly prohibited. © 2021 Allured Business Media.
2021
or any Cosmetics & Toiletries® | 27

Body Beauty
Sponsored by:
®
Maintaining Body skin has site-specific

Natural Vitality BIO-BOTANICA® INC.
needs, each with its own
Consumers have been looking for attributes and structure
approaches to maintain youth and vitality
naturally. Plants provide an excellent source of requiring targeted solutions.
natural entities with activity that can promote
this healthy vitality.
One herb that has been significantly That said, a product developed for the needs of the face
studied is Pueraria mirifica. Pueraria may not be optimal for the skin on the chest. As such, it is
mirifica is a plant that belongs to the family important to understand the anatomical site variations in
Papilionaceae (Leguminosae). The root is facial skin relative to the skin on other body sites in order to
establish a tailored, site-specific approach to anti-aging skin
the part of the plant that has been used in
care for the unique needs of body skin.
Thailand for more than 500 years. It has
also been called Kwao Krua and Thai Kudzu. Facial vs. Body Skin
This plant grows in deep forest regions in The main differences between facial and body skin are
northern Thailand. thickness; sebaceous gland, sweat gland and hair follicle
Legend has touted the anti-aging distribution; subcutaneous fat content; melanin composition;
properties of this medicinal herb for centuries. and response to external sensitivity.3 In non-facial body skin,
A paper translated from Siamese in 1931 the distribution of sebaceous glands drops substantially, with
mentions the use of Pueraria Tuberous Root, smaller glands and a lower count on the extremities.3 Accord-
"to make the skin smooth like a six-year-old ingly, the high lipid content from sebum secreted by sebaceous
child and allow you to live 1,000 years and glands are limited in those areas, resulting in the skin being
prevent suffering from parasites, while also dryer than the face.
enhancing memory." (Wanadorn, P.W. (1931). Epidermal thickness also varies in body skin. For example,
the skin on the dorsal forearm has a thicker stratum corneum,
A Reputed Rejuvenator. J. Siam Society,
with more layers of corneocytes than the face. This contrib-
Natural History Supp (8) 337.)
utes to a slower cellular differentiation rate, which may result
Bio-Botanica’s Patented Puresterol® is in a rougher, uneven surface microrelief.4
made from the Pueraria mirifica root. Only In addition, some locations on the body such as the legs
one species of this root contains the specific and abdomen are often more protected from external stressors
constituent of Puresterol®. Puresterol® was such as UV, and therefore have less melanin variability.5 How-
recently evaluated for anti-wrinkle effects in ever, for areas exposed to the sun such as the neck, chest and
a topical treatment applied for 28 days by 42 top of the forearm, there may be even less melanin distribu-
volunteers. Wrinkles were quantified using the tion, resulting in an uneven skin tone.
Bio3D Structured-light Scanner. The skin on the body is also less sensitive to external
During the 28 days, Puresterol® showed stimuli, especially areas with a thicker epidermis.3 Finally,
significant effects in reducing the area, length subcutaneous fat compositions vary on different parts of the
body, with less deposition on the top of the hands and chest,
and depth of crow's feet wrinkles. Therefore,
which impacts the appearance of plumpness and/or smooth-
Puresterol® may be considered for use as
ness in those areas.6
an anti-wrinkle ingredient in cosmetics and
personal care formulations.
Market projections for 2020 to 2027 identify
body care cosmeceuticals as a growing niche
For more information, please visit: segment for personal care.
http://www.bio-botanica.com/product/
puresterol-pueraria-mirifica-2/ Source: GlobeNewswire

Body Beauty
Physiological Aging of and hyaluronic acid in the dermis decreases

with age as well.10 Additionally, the overall
Non-facial Skin volume of subcutaneous fat generally declines
Similar to the face, skin on the body under- and redistributes on different sites of the body
goes both structural and biochemical changes with age.6
with age. The stratum corneum decreases in
thickness, particularly on the neck, upper part Visible Signs of
of the chest and the extensor surface of the
hands.4 Keratinocytes become shorter and fatter,
Non-facial Skin Aging
while corneocytes increase in size as a result of Similar to facial skin, the primary visible
decreased epidermal differentiation. Melanocyte signs of body skin aging include skin laxity,
production decreases, which results in uneven thinness, lines and wrinkles, hyperpigmentation,
skin tone, pigmentation and age spots.7 uneven skin texture and dryness.1 While these
Although the number of sweat glands does main characteristics of aging are consistent on
not change, as noted, lipid-rich sebum produc- all anatomical skin sites, there are specific attri-
tion decreases in areas with few sebaceous butes that are more prevalent in some locations
glands and hair follicles.8 There is also a of the body than in others. These considerations
reduction in water content and natural moistur- should be part of a targeted approach to anti-
izing factors in these areas due to compromised aging body care.
barrier integrity.8 Neck and chest: Skin aging on the neck and
The most consistent change in aging body chest is heavily influenced by gravity, morphol-
skin is the morphological and compositional ogy, muscle movement and environmental
change in the dermal-epidermal junction, with stressors.11 Many of the visible signs of aging
a loss of key structural proteins such as collagen in this area are mainly due to sun exposure,
and elastin.9 The amount of glycosaminoglycans including uneven skin tone, age spots, redness
and dyspigmenta-
tion.11 The neck skin
The epidermis on the legs is
also becomes saggy
thicker, with more corneocyte with hanging folds due
layers, which results in slower to the gravitational
cellular differentiation. pull on loose skin. This
is often referred to
as turkey neck and is
specific to this area of
the body.
Due to muscle
movement and the
morphology of the
skin, visible horizontal
lines are noticeable
during aging. The
chest area normally
shows decreased
plumpness and
volume with vertical
and diagonal wrinkled
lines.11 This area is
also prone to sensi-
tivity and fragility
due to the thinning
stratum corneum.
The neck and chest
may additionally
exhibit an uneven

microrelief and rough texture due to dryness
and sun exposure. The combination of all these
aging signs often results in crepey-looking
skin, which refers to a thin, finely wrinkled,
hyperpigmented appearance.
Forearms: Signs of aging on the outer fore-
arm are often more visible than the inner arm
due to environmental exposure, loss of moisture
and sebaceous and hair follicle distribution. The
surface on the outer forearm has a lower water
content in the stratum corneum, compared with
more sun-protected areas.12
Due to the lower density of sebaceous glands
and sebum lipid production, the barrier of the
forearm skin is often more compromised. These
two main factors result in the skin appear-
ing dry, rough and scaly with uneven surface
texture. Dryness and sun exposure can also lead
to fine wrinkles on the forearms; especially the
upper forearm and elbow where there are even
fewer sebaceous glands.12
Skin aging on the neck and chest is heavily influenced by gravity,
Hands: The tops of the hands are often one morphology, muscle movement and environmental stressors.
of the first areas on the body to show visible
signs of skin aging, which are usually stressed
throughout the day by sun exposure, overuse, the rough texture. This is especially noticeable
friction and hand-washing. The skin on the on the knees, which are also prone to wrinkles
dorsal hands is also thin, has less subcutaneous due to the movement of joints and muscles.3 The
fat and is supported by continuously moving skin on the lower legs may also have less sebum
bones and tendons.13 These attributes can make and lipids due to hair removal by shaving,
the skin on the hands appear frail and easily depilating, etc., further contributing to aging
prone to damage. attributes related to dry skin.
The dorsal parts of the hands also have Shoulders and abdomen: Other skin areas
fewer sebaceous glands and consequently, lower of the body that may show signs of aging are
hydrating sebum lipid content.13 Clinical signs the shoulders and abdomen. Shoulder skin is
of aging in the hands include an uneven, rough mainly photoaged due to exposure to sunlight.
texture, wrinkles, skin laxity and age spots.13 Furthermore, the epidermis is thick on the
This combination of noticeable aging features shoulders, which may lead to visible roughness.
can make the tops of hands appear crepey and The skin on the abdomen is supported by
delicate, similar to the chest area. a high deposition of subcutaneous fat. Weight
Legs: Visible signs of skin aging on the legs fluctuations lead to adipose tissue redistribu-
are not common, as this region is often cov- tion to further increase skin laxity in this area.
ered with clothes or hair. There is also limited The skin on the abdomen also becomes thinner
research on the physiology of leg skin, except with age,14 and these attributes can result in a
for adipose tissue deposition and cellulite on wrinkled and saggy appearance.14
the upper thighs. The studies that have been
done primarily focus on epidermal thickness
Full Body Formulating
comparisons and loss of moisture. That said, Considerations
the epidermis on the legs is thicker, with more Based on the various differences in skin
corneocyte layers than most other parts of the biology, exposure, movement, etc., that influence
body,4 and a thicker epidermis results in slower signs of aging across the body, it is important to
cellular differentiation. As such, the leg skin consider a targeted approach to anti-aging body
surface often appears uneven, rough and scaly. care. For example, products for the chest should
The skin may also look dull and sallow due to contain sun protection agents and antioxidants,

Body Beauty
as photodamage is the main contributing factor Acknowledgments: The views represented in this article are
for aging on this site. The skin on the chest is also those of the author and do not reflect the views or opinions
of Sanofi.
thin, requiring a sensitive approach to ingredient
selection, to limit irritation.
For products for the neck, technologies that References
increase the production of structural proteins are 1. Farage, M.A., Miller, K.W., Elsner, P. and Maibach, H.I.
(2008). Intrinsic and extrinsic factors in skin ageing: a
recommended to reduce laxity and wrinkles. review. Int J Cosmet Sci 30(2) 87-95. https://pubmed.ncbi.
The skin on the forearms also needs photo- nlm.nih.gov/18377617/
protection as well as high levels of moisturizers, 2. Trojahn, C., Dobos, G., Lichterfeld, A., Blume-Peytavi, U.
to restore lipids and other natural moisturizing and Kottner, J. (2015). Characterizing facial skin ageing
in humans: disentangling extrinsic from intrinsic biological
factors. Gentle exfoliators to increase cellular phenomena. Biomed Res Int 2015. https://www.hindawi.
turnover on the forearms and elbows should also com/journals/bmri/2015/318586/
be considered for improvements in texture. A 3. Yoo, M.A., Seo, Y.K., Shin, M.K. and Koh, J.S. (2015, Mar
similar strategy can be implemented for products 20). How much related to skin wrinkles between facial
and body site? Age-related changes in skin wrinkle on the
on the knees and legs. knee assessed by skin bioengineering techniques. Skin
As noted earlier, the dorsal skin on hands is Res Technol 22(1)69-74. https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/
quite thin, without much sebum or lipids, and abs/10.1111/srt.12230
is often the most overused and environmentally 4. Sandby-Møller, J., Poulsen, T. and Wulf, H.C. Epidermal
thickness at different body sites: relationship to age,
exposed. Anti-aging strategies for this area should gender, pigmentation, blood content, skin type and
include sun protection for daytime use. Addition- smoking habits. (2003). Acta Derm Venereol 83(6) 410-
ally, high levels of humectants to retain and attract 413. https://www.medicaljournals.se/acta/content/abstr
act/10.1080/00015550310015419
moisture to the skin are crucial for a plumped,
5. Del Bino, S., Duval, C. and Bernerd, F. (2018, Sep 8).
smooth appearance. Reparative moisturizers and Clinical and biological characterization of skin pigmentation
lipids can also improve the compromised barrier diversity and its consequences on UV impact. Int J Mol Sci
of the skin on the hands to further reduce the 19(9) 2668. https://www.mdpi.com/1422-0067/19/9/2668
signs of aging associated with loss of moisture. 6. Sepe, A., Tchkonia, T., Thomou, T., Zamboni, M. and
Kirkland, J.L. (2011) Aging and regional differences in fat
cell progenitors / a mini-review. Gerontology 57(1) 66-75.
Final Thoughts https://www.karger.com/Article/Abstract/279755
Undoubtedly, there is a significant focus on 7. Farage, M.A., Miller, K.W., Elsner, P. and Maibach, H.I.
(2013, Jan 17). Characteristics of the aging skin. Adv
the face, especially in the media, for the research
Wound Care (New Rochelle) 2(1) 5-10. https://www.
and development of anti-aging skin care. Recently, liebertpub.com/doi/10.1089/wound.2011.0356
there has been a rise in market demand for topical 8. Boer, M., Duchnik, E., Maleszka, R. and Marchlewicz, M.
body care targeted at health, sleep and stress (2016, Feb). Structural and biophysical characteristics of
human skin in maintaining proper epidermal barrier function.
but even so, there is still a lack of consideration
Postepy Dermatol Alergol 33(1) 1-5. https://pubmed.ncbi.
regarding the anti-aging needs of non-facial skin. nlm.nih.gov/26985171/
And while the skin on the body is often not made 9. Langton, A.K., et al. (2016, Jun). The impact of intrinsic
as visible to the world as the face, it does age. ageing on the protein composition of the dermal-epidermal
junction. Mech Age Dev 156 14-16. https://www.sciencedi-
Skin aging factors affect all anatomical sites on
rect.com/science/article/pii/S0047637416300276
the body. Wrinkles, fine lines, discoloration, rough
10. Lee, D.H., Oh, J.H. and Chung, J.H. (2016, Sep). Glycos-
texture and all the other visible signs of aging do aminoglycan and proteoglycan in skin aging. J Dermatol Sci
not discriminate on which body site they appear. 83(3) 174-181. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/27378089/
Like the face, the skin below the neck has site- 11. Dénes, Z. (1985). Age and the neck's "décolleté syndrome."
Z Alternsforsch 40(3) 159-164.
specific needs—each area with its own attributes
12. Carvalho, P.R.S., Sumita, J.M., Soares, J.L.M., Sanudo,
and structure requiring targeted topical anti-aging
A. and Bagatin, E. (2017, May 31). Forearm skin aging:
solutions for the consumer. characterization by instrumental measurements. Int J
Cosmet Sci 39(5) 564-571. https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/
doi/abs/10.1111/ics.12407
13. Roberts, W.E., Colvan, L. and Gotz, V. (2017). Topical treat-
ment of aging hands: Brief report. J Clin Aesthet Dermatol
Emotion and Skin Aging 10(8) 37-41.
14. Durai, P.C., Thappa, D.M., Kumari, R. and Malathi, M.
Be sure to check out our May 2020 edition. (2012, Sep). Aging in elderly: chronological versus photoag-
ing. Indian J Dermatol 57(5) 343-352. https://pubmed.ncbi.
nlm.nih.gov/23112352/

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Preservation Focus | C&T ®
Editor's note: Beginning this month, Cosmetics &

Toiletries is pleased to present an entire series focused on
preservation—from benchtop strategies for formulators
(described here), to case studies in production and their
resolution, starting on Page 42. Join us as we follow
products as they move beyond the benchtop, in order to
identify potential weak points in preservation.
Weak
Points in
Preservation
Sponsored by:
W here, in a formula's lifecycle, is it most vulner-

able to microbial contamination? And what
can formulators do to ensure a robust system
that stands up to the challenge? These ques-
tions and others were posed to Steve Schnittger
(SS), Ph.D., vice president of microbiology and
fermentation in R&D at The Estée Lauder Companies, in the following interview.
This kicks off our special focus on preservation with a view from the
bench—leading to a comprehensive series of challenges encountered during full
production (see Page 42 for Part I in this series).

CT2104_Prsrv_Focus_column_interview_fcx.indd 34 3/19/21 5:28 PM

C&T: What are some left to accumulate anywhere in the process,
of the key points that's where the problems begin. So if that
during a cosmetic first step in the process of influent water and
product’s life cycle sanitization is not under control, from there,
where it is most vul- major problems could occur.
nerable to microbial
contamination?
C&T: What about powdered or nonaque-
SS: All cosmetic ous products?
products that contain
water have a potential SS: For anhydrous products, the risk is not
risk of contamination if as great. Even in a powder product where
GMPs are not properly a water-based ingredient might be in there,
followed. So anywhere there's normally not enough water to support
during that product's growth. You must continue to test and pre-
life cycle, from manu- serve but the potential for survival and growth
facturing to filling to is significantly reduced.
use by the consumer, As with aqueous products, adherence
there's always a con- to cGMP procedures is a must. You do see
cern around potential reports where products are tested right off the
contamination. shelf but usually the numbers of organisms
It all starts with found are very low as compared to an aque-
the raw materials. If ous based product. For anhydrous products,
the raw materials are contamination is basically in a static state. So
properly controlled for the most part, again, if the raw materials
during the incoming meet specification and GMP procedures are
process of storage and followed, then the manufacturing of anhy-
handling, and the water drous and powder products would not be at a
system used during high risk for contamination.
manufacturing is
properly validated, then
there is a high degree of
confidence that the risk
of contamination for
this part of the process
is minimal.
Secondly, if a com-
pany is following the
Podcast
proper cGMPs during
both the manufactur-
ing process and filling
operation, then the risk
is again reduced because hopefully they have
validated their overall processes to reduce
the potential of an external contaminant
being introduced into the process flow.
It’s only when people aren't doing their
due diligence that problems arise. More often
than not, what you see in many of the FDA
recalls is based on the presence of waterborne
organisms. If the quality of the water that
they use for manufacturing is not properly
filtered or sterilized, or if standing water is

Weaks Points in Preservation
C&T: What can product developers do to ingredients that we use in our formulations, are
prevent contamination? water-based. So again, they have to be properly
SS: Water is the main concern, and water-

preserved and follow the proper controls for
storage and handling. So yes, for a formulator,
based ingredients—and ... many of the active there is that same risk when developing a prod-
Key Vulnerabilities in Cosmetic Product Preservation*
1. Microorganism Types
• Bacteria, Fungi (Molds, Yeasts)
• Adaptation Bacteria
• Resistant Microbes
• Spore-forming Bacteria
• Biofilms
2. Growth Conditions and

Raw Materials
• Water
• Process Water
• Nutrients and Natural/
Organic Ingredients
• Temperature
• pH
• Time
• Ingredient Decomposition
• Repeated Exposures 4. Filling
• Contamination During
Transport • Residual Washing Water
• External Packaging • Improper Washing
Contamination • Filling at Third-party Factory
• Contaminated Cooling Water
• Condensation
• Contaminated Product
3. Bulk Production Containers, Packaging
• Product Exposure During
• Bacteria from Operators Testing
• Microorganisms in Facility, • Insects
Equipment, Pipelines, • Building Damage
• Intermediate Product • Contaminated Sterilization Alcohol
• Contamination
• Uneven Distribution of
Preservatives
• Preservative Deactivation 5. Microbiological Testing
• Failed Sterilization • Single Test
• Residual Liquid in • Miscalculated Bacteria Numbers
Premix Tank • Colonies Covering Additional
• Contamination of Compressed Bacteria Colonies
Air Driving Equipment • Slow Bacteria Growth in
Test Medium
• Crysterization of Products
*Not a comprehensive list; the key points listed were • Uneven Bacteria Distribution
taken from the present interview and article series • Contamination Due to Testing
beginning on Page 34 of this issue

Sponsored by:
uct as there is when a product is being transferred to
manufacturing for production. The same rules and
procedures apply. At Evonik, preservation
C&T: What about considerations like pH, natural begins at the formulation
ingredients, or alternative preservation systems? development phase.
Do these offer additional tools?
In our industry, there is little controversy among
SS: If we take pH first, most of our ingredients are experts that efficient preservation is essential
pH neutral or they're anywhere from 4.5 to 7, which for the safety of cosmetics. For a formulator with
is the optimum level for growth. If you look at things many choices of preservatives and multifunctional
like AHAs, the alpha hydroxy acids, which are more
antimicrobial ingredients, the path to preserve
on the acidic side, they are outside of the optimum
a cosmetic depends on the ingredients in the
range to support bacterial growth. If a chemist
could maintain a product pH that is on the acidic
developed formulation as well as the manufacturing
side, it will help in the overall preservation of their and distribution process. But this is no easy task!
formulation. In many cases, it will also help in the The composition of most cosmetic products
optimization of the preservatives they are using by comprises basic components of water and/
keeping those preservatives in their ionic state. or oil, stabilizing agents, active ingredients and
Natural and organic [ingredients] are risky because auxiliary substances, which can all influence your
to meet these natural or guidelines, the means of preserving system. Formulation compositions like
extraction have to be performed without the use oil-in-water (o/w) carry the highest contamination
of chemicals. The means for extraction could now risk due to their being two-phase systems, where
make that ingredient susceptible to contamination. water is a medium for growth and oil is nutrient for
We've even seen [this] with oil-based products. We all
microorganisms. Preserving systems, such as o/w,
know that because there is no water in an oil, they
can migrate depending on the lipophilic condition,
don't support microbial growth—but now that there
are organic oils, they're having to use other means
leaving your water phase defenseless to the
of extraction, which leads them to be risky, just like growth of microbes. And, as for the manufacturing
other aqueous-based raw materials. process (e.g., pre-contamination from ingredients,
So yes, the natural ingredients are, I would say, a laboratory water source, packaging and overall
higher risk than our conventional ingredients … just plant hygiene) and the distribution conditions (e.g.,
because they have to follow those natural guidelines. storage, handling and customers’ behavior), these
Products that were, at one time, assumed to [require] can also wreak havoc in cosmetic formulations by
no test should now be evaluated to ensure that they further introducing microorganisms.
are not susceptible to contamination. At Evonik Dr. Straetmans, a pioneer in cosmetic
ingredients and alternative preservation, we offer
C&T: For a new person coming into the lab, what formulators solutions to keep cosmetic products
safe, so products can continue their long-lasting
kinds of tests would they normally perform to
ensure the product is protected? Is that outlined in
relationship with consumers. From our carefully
certain documents? selected preservative blends (Verstatil® product
range), to our multifunctional antimicrobial
SS: Every formula that is developed within the additives (dermosoft® product range), formulators
cosmetic industry has to go through a challenge test. can keep their product safe through all aspects of
And if you're in-house safety and stability plan is in the development process.
place, each scale-up batch during development—from
benchwork, to pilot batch, to production—and also
your stability work should be challenged-tested to
ensure that there's no loss in efficacy of your preser- Learn more on how to keep products safe
vative system over time. That is a standard test that is from the start: https://bit.ly/3lgIjLX
required, again, whether it's aqueous or anhydrous;
you still need to have that documentation to show
that that product is safe and efficacious. There are

exemptions to these test parameters but they would not rely on them as a primary preserva-
are normally hot pour items or those that are at tive system but they would help develop a
the extreme pH range. synergy, again, with the packaging, with the
This is something that each new chem- formulation and with the pH of the formula. It
ist is taught and learns to adhere to. One of is a complete package, per se.
the concerns that has been raised within the
C&T: What are some of the biggest mistakes

industry and trade association is that many of
these smaller brands that are making inroads
in the marketplace are not following the same that product developers are making in terms
guidelines of testing at each step of develop- of preservation? Can you give them advice?
ment, or they're just doing one snapshot test on
their formulation, and then saying, "It's good to SS: The biggest hurdle we have with product
go." They also need to adhere to the guidelines development is ... listening to the trends that
that have been established by PCPC, Cosmetics are out there in the marketplace, and many
Europe and the FDA to ensure the safety, effi- times those trends don’t always lead to a safe
cacy and long term stability of their products. and efficacious formula.
We talk [about] this all the time: the con-
C&T: Rather than the formula itself, what

sumer today wants a natural preservative
system or they want a lower preservative system
other ways can microbe contamination can and those guidelines are hard to meet to ensure
be controlled? I'm thinking in terms of pack- the safety and efficacy of a formula. So, when
aging or additives. product development comes down and says,
“We don’t want to use this,” and, “We don't
SS: There is definitely packaging out there want to use that…” we have to push back.
that can help in product protection. If you look I don't want to be specific about certain
at the recent ISO Guideline, ISO 11930, [this ingredients and staying away from them but
guideline] shows how a combination of packag- again, you've got product development and
ing and a risk assessment can ensure overall you’ve got marketing that are listening to the
product protection and can help in reducing the consumer—because the consumer has read
levels of [preservatives] in your formulation. If in the paper that this [or that] raw material is
you combine that with the physical-chemical “bad.” We have to kind of push back and say,
parameters of your formulation, meaning if you “What's more important: to ensure the efficacy,
use a lower pH, [the formula is] well-preserved or to try to meet the natural guidelines that
and that is in a package that minimizes external are set down because someone read in a paper
contamination. By building those total systems that X chemistry is no longer safe?”—which is
around your formulation, you seriously are without any scientific data.
reducing the risk of contamination both during
C&T: We touched on this but what market

manufacturing, and then once in the hands of
the consumer.
trends are out there as far as new product
C&T: Are there materials like organic acids

forms that might pose a risk for microbe
contamination?
or even properties like wetting, pH, etc.,
that could be tools to help with the microbe SS: The biggest concern that we had a number
control? of years ago that we, the industry, tried to
address were these flow-through pens and
SS: Sure. The organic acids are recognized sponge-tip applicators—where the product
preservative systems and they are used widely itself is not the risk but the means of delivery
but again, they have pH limitations to them. is where the risk increases. It's the package
Sorbic acid, benzoic acid…they don't work well that's delivering the product that’s problematic
when you raise your pH to above 6.2, 6.5 … because it supports microbial growth. …That
the amount of free acid is really minimal. So I sponge-tip is a perfect environment for the

growth of organisms. Lip balms and products onto their skin. I think there is a change in the
such as this are anhydrous, so they’re not a risk. word “protection” and “preservation.”
It's not so much the product that is of concern. There may still be that small group of people
that are anti-preservation but I think the bigger
C&T: What are your thoughts on consumer

thing is “protection”—how they protect them-
selves from the outside environment and whether
awareness about preservatives and how their that's pollution, whether that's bacteria, whether
opinions may or may not have changed since that's viruses, whether that's “improve your
the pandemic? barriers,” or the barrier function of your skin…
to minimize the possibility of those organisms
SS: We saw this early on, in the middle of the to create an adverse reaction or adhering to your
pandemic, where people wanted more protec- skin and then cause an adverse reaction.
tion. They wanted to minimize the chance of So, I think that is a trend that has developed
these viral contaminants [or bacteria] getting based on what has happened with COVID and
hopefully the industry will take advantage of it
and develop products that meet those needs.
Water-based ingredients must have proper controls.
They must be preserved just like the finished product.
C&T: This discussion is really good insight

from the bench standpoint. We want to use this
as a stepping stone to move into what happens
during the manufacturing process—which, as
you know, is coming up in the article penned
by Kao and others (see Page 42) … I know we
gave you the chance to review it. I wonder if
you have any insights on how the transition
from the benchtop moves into these processes?
SS: I thought that paper did a good job in help-

ing the chemist and manufacturer identify where
those potential issues may occur—basically, if
people aren't doing their jobs, …these are the
places where things could fall through the gaps.
And I think they identified that even if you had
a process that is validated, if someone … doesn’t
take care of his responsibility or is having a bad
day, these are where those problems could occur.
And, you can validate a system, you can vali-
date a process but you can’t validate a human.
You're still relying on operators and people on
the manufacturing floor to follow the guidelines
and the processes that have been put in place.
And that's why we need to make sure that our
processes are robust.
… What they were trying to outline was
that even with the best policies, there's always
concerns of what potentially might go wrong.
So they're trying to make sure that the formula,
once it's released out of R&D, which was
properly preserved, properly tested, and then
transferred over to manufacturing, …here are
those places where, even if properly preserved, it
could run into problems with contamination.

Beauty Accelerate
is Virtual!
See you
October 19-21, 2021
beautyaccelerate.com
Produced by
CT2104_Cover_1st.indd 1 3/18/21 2:23 PM

Preservative Focus | C&T ®
This article series is
sponsored by Campo Research.
Editor's note: Cosmetics & Toiletries is pleased to

present this four-part series featuring real-life scenarios
of microbial contamination that occurred during product
manufacturing—and the countermeasures taken. While
all proper manufacturing practices may be followed,
microbes are still living entities that adapt to survive,
finding pathways into products and causing spoilage,
contamination or worse. These case studies can serve as
a guide to address and prevent microbial contamination
during production.
Follow all four parts, including:

• Part I, provided here, giving an
overview of relevant microbes and their
growth conditions;
• Part II, coming in May, highlighting case

studies in raw materials;
• Part III, to appear in June, addressing

issues during bulk production; and
• Part IV, in September, wrapping up the

series with filling and testing.
Thanks go to Campo Research for

sponsoring this series.
Sponsored by:
Peer-reviewed
facebook.com/CandTmagazine
@cosmeticsandtoiletries Reproduction in English or any other language of

CT2104_Prsrv_Focus_Toshima_Part1_fcx.indd 42 3/19/21 12:05 PM

Quality Culture Eliminating Microbes in the
Cosmetic Manufacturing Gemba*
Part I: Introduction
Yasuhiko Toshima, Ph.D. and Hiroyuki Araki, Kao Corp., Tochigi, Japan
Masahiko Otani, Lion Corp., Tokyo
Ruka Suzuki, KOSÉ Corp., Tokyo
Jun Usukura, Mandom Corp., Osaka, Japan
Kohtaro Fujioka, Ph.D., Manda Fermentation Co., Ltd., Hiroshima, Japan; and formerly of
Nihon L’Oréal K.K., Procter & Gamble Japan and House Foods Corp.
Masaki Ookawa, Ookawa Microbiology Research Labo., Kanagawa, Japan; and
formerly of Shiseido Co., Ltd. and Nisshin Flour Milling Inc.; also former chairperson of
M
Microbiology Expert Group, Japan Cosmetic Industry Association
anufacturers of cosmetic
and personal care products
must fulfill their dual
responsibility to ensure
that the presence of
microorganisms is within
acceptable limits, both in quantity and quality,2 at the time
of purchase by consumers. Companies must also ensure
the growth of microorganisms in products does not affect
their quality or safety during the intended use. In order to
fulfill these responsibilities, preservation system design in
product formulations and hygiene control in the manufactur-
ing environment are fundamental—and these two must be
highly synchronized.
Therefore, the first goal in product manufacturing is to
design an appropriate preservation system for each given
formula. Here, it is important to follow international stan-
dards such as ISO 119303 and guidelines issued by industry
organizations. At the same time, it is important to use an
appropriate palette of preservatives and preservation sys-
* The word gemba or genba is a Japanese word that refers

to “the actual place or site where value is created.” In the
context of this article, it refers to the holistic environment
of cosmetic manufacturing, encompassing more than the
facility itself. While environment will be used throughout
the article, note that the true meaning is deeper. This
article is adapted with permission from the original, which
appeared in the Fragrance Journal (in Japanese).1

Quality Culture
Preservation system design in formulas

and hygiene control in the manufacturing
environment are fundamental—and these two
must be highly synchronized.
tems,4 and balance their use levels to maximize most microbial problems are detected in
efficacy and ensure product robustness against microbiological testing before shipment, serious
contamination, while also minimizing exposure problems can arise beyond such repetition. Tak-
and potential concerns for human safety.5, 6 ing to heart the golden rule that “quality is built
A second major goal is to achieve proper into the process, not into testing,” this series
hygiene controls in the manufacturing environ- is meant to serve as a guide to help companies
ment, which are described in ISO 22716 Good review their daily activities and raise awareness
Manufacturing Practices,7 in the Personal Care to predict and prevent microbial problems.
Products Council’s (PCPC’s) guidelines,8 etc.
These should be used as a model, first and fore- Microorganisms in the
most; however, in the cosmetics and personal Manufacturing Environment
care manufacturing environment, microorgan-
In order to explain problem cases and their
isms—which are living creatures, desperate to
countermeasures in future articles, it is first
survive—may migrate into production control,
useful to review some basic knowledge and
sometimes by mutating their very natures,
terminology that will be used throughout this
which affords them opportunities.
series regarding microbiological control in the
Many cases of microbial problems in the
manufacturing environment. Outlined here are
manufacturing environment will, with the
relevant microorganisms and their character-
benefit of hindsight, turn out to be pretty
istics. Growth conditions are discussed next.
straightforward once their causes are identified.
Note that for the sake of practicality, in some
However, it can be quite difficult to predict and
instances, strict definitions of microbiology are
prevent problems in advance; especially their
not used, but rather expressions unique to this
direct and root causes. Therefore, if the empiri-
article series.
cal wisdom gained from microbial problems in
Bacteria, fungi (molds, yeasts): The main
actual manufacturing environments is superim-
microorganisms that should be targeted in a
posed on existing standards and guidelines, this
manufacturing environment are bacteria and
becomes real knowledge with great applicability.
fungi, with the latter being classified into molds
As most would agree, “failure teaches success.”
and yeasts. Since bacteria favor a high humidity
This article series is based on the experiences
environment, many cosmetic and personal care
of authors who have been involved in the micro-
products can become their breeding grounds.
biological control of cosmetics and personal
Molds survive more easily in a dry environment
care products for decades. Here, microbial prob-
than bacteria. These can be introduced into raw
lems that occurred in manufacturing are put
materials and products with less water content
together in the form of case studies. Although
and can grow. Their growth is often more visu-
ally recognizable than that of bacteria.
Certain yeasts are used in the brewing, so
Although safety issues resulting from
some types clearly can grow in an environment
contaminated cosmetics are currently rare, where alcohol and salt concentrations are rela-
product recalls still occur worldwide due to tively high—even when the water content is low,
microbial contamination of the products. like that of molds. These microorganisms can be
controlled by the general sterilization condi-
Source: Scientific Reports (April 2020) tions adopted in a manufacturing environment,
such as high temperatures and 70% ethanol.

Sponsored by:
However, microorganisms with resistance to
preservatives and other antimicrobial com-
pounds, described later, are much more difficult
Versatile, Nature-derived
to control. Preservation
For example, in the case of massive micro-
bial proliferation in an intermediate product, The recipe for successful preservation
if microorganisms are killed by heating during calls for two main ingredients working
processing and/or by adding preservatives, the synergistically together: GMP and a versatile,
product may pass microbiological testing before effective and easy-to-use preservative
shipment. However, the product may still con-
system. Campo Research has been supplying
tain massive amounts of dead microorganisms,
Plantservative WSr (INCI: Lonicera Japonica
cell compounds and their metabolites, which
Flower Extract (and) Lonicera Caprifolium
had never been intended in the product and
therefore become a quality assurance risk. As Flower Extract) for more than 30 years to small
such, microbiological control of an intermediate and large manufacturers who have utilized its
product is also important. versatility, broad antimicrobial performance
Adaptation bacteria: Many types of bacteria and green chemistry profile. Completely
have the ability to adapt to and eventually gain absent of EC allergens, Plantservative WSr is
resistance to preservatives; these will be referred upcycled from wildly cropped honeysuckle
to as adaptation bacteria, hereafter. As might be plants that are classified as weeds. It is also
expected, these tend to cause the most trouble- GRAS (GRN No. 13), has a Natural Origin Index
some microbial contamination originating of 1 according to ISO 16128 and is COSMOS-
in a manufacturing environment. Adaptation
and Natrue-compliant, supporting 100%
bacteria, in particular, tend to be generated in
naturally derived claims while effectively
a production process where preservatives are
preserving natural formulas.
diluted; for example, a place where washing
water remains. Once bacteria gain resistance, Plantservative WSr is nonionic and
they cannot be controlled by preservatives, thus compatible with cationic and anionic
even with much higher concentrations than ingredients. It does not impact the sensorial
in the formulation, and they can continue properties of cosmetic formulations, i.e.,
to proliferate. color and odor, and it imparts antimicrobial
Sometimes, these entities gain resistance to protection in a broad pH range (2.5 to 12),
other kinds of preservatives. Even a small num- providing reliable protection in several
ber of adaptation bacteria that are not detected cosmetic applications—including mineral-
in microbiological testing before shipment can based products such as sunscreens, clay
proliferate exponentially inside a product by
masks, etc., where the pH drifts to 7 and
the time it reaches the consumer. Therefore, the
above. Plantservative WSr is also temperature-
generation of adaptation bacteria must not be
resistant up to 95°C (208°F), making its
allowed during the production process.
Resistant microbes: In fungi, acquired addition during different stages of production
adaptation to preservatives is not so common as possible, such as the cooling stage or at the
in bacteria, but some types have intrinsic resis- beginning before heat is applied. Heat does
tance to preservatives. These will be referred to not impact its concentration as the ingredient
as resistant microbes, hereafter. Such entities is not volatile. Given its alkaline nature, it
can cause problems if they are introduced into is best to pre-neutralize Plantservative WSr
products or raw materials. Note there are some, with lactic acid before adding it to the main
rare, resistant bacteria. These resistant microbes production vessel.
cannot be prevented by the measures taken
against adaptation bacteria. Basic measures to
minimize microbial ingress into a production
For more information visit:
environment are therefore important. http://www.campo-research.com/
Spore-forming bacteria: Spore-forming
bacteria are one type of bacteria. As their name

Quality Culture
Many types of
bacteria have the
ability to adapt to
and eventually
gain resistance to
preservatives.
suggests, they form spores and can become would be limited. Therefore, in general, elimina-
dormant under severe growth conditions. tion by washing would be the main method to
They then resume proliferation in more control spore-forming bacteria (spores) that
appropriate conditions. Bacteria spores are have entered equipment.
tolerant to dry conditions, high temperatures Biofilms: These microorganisms adhere to
or 70% ethanol. General methods used in a and proliferate on the surface of a solid body,
manufacturing environment cannot control creating structures covered with the polysac-
them. High pressure steam sterilization charides they produce. These structures are
or high concentration hypochlorous acid generally called biofilms. In some cases, biofilms
can kill them, but the application of these adapt to preservatives and gain resistance in
approaches in a manufacturing environment their formation process. A biofilm is difficult
to eliminate once it is
formed. If it forms on a
wetted surface of produc-
tion equipment, chemical
agents such as 70% etha-
nol and hypochlorous acid
can sterilize it just on the
surface—not inside the
biofilm. In some cases,
general conditions of high
temperature steriliza-
tion are not enough to
sterilize it.
In production equip-
ment, biofilms tend to
form on wetted surfaces
that are not sufficiently
polished. Even if the
surface looks clean after
washing and steriliza-
tion, in some cases,
bacteria can be detected
by wipe testing. In order
to prevent biofilms from
forming inside production
Cosmetics and personal care products contain abundant carbon and nitrogen sources,
which nourish microorganisms.

equipment, it is important to carry out proper problems addressed henceforth, and to start
washing and sterilization in a timely manner. taking countermeasures.
It also emphasizes the importance for
Growth Conditions in the managers and operators to walk around the
Manufacturing Environment manufacturing environment and consider how,
if production equipment is left insufficiently
Water: Water is essential for microorganisms
washed or dried, for example, this provides
to grow. Many cosmetics and personal care
the appropriate conditions of water content,
products contain a high ratio of water, which
nutrients, temperature and time for microorgan-
gives microorganisms appropriate conditions
isms to grow and exponentially proliferate, and
for growth. Water activity is the measurement
eventually adapt to preservatives. Follow along
of the free water available to microorganisms.
for Part II in our discussion on case studies in
Generally, microorganisms find it difficult to
raw material contamination, coming in May.
proliferate in raw materials and products with
water activity under 0.75 and microbiologically,
raw materials and products in this category are References
considered low risk.9 This is premised by the 1. Toshima, Y., Araki, H., ... Ookawa, M., et al. (2020). Case
studies of microbial problems in the manufacturing genba of
observance of GMP7 and appropriate control of
cosmetics and personal care products. Frag J 48(5) 53-64
microorganisms and water entry. (in Japanese).
Nutrients: Cosmetics and personal care 2. ISO (2014). ISO 17516:2014. Cosmetics–microbiology–
products contain abundant carbon and nitrogen microbiological limits. Available at: https://www.iso.org/
standard/59938.html
sources, etc., which nourish microorganisms.
3. ISO (2019). ISO 11930:2019. Cosmetics–microbiology–
Insufficient hygiene control in a production
evaluation of the antimicrobial protection of a cosmetic
process could easily allow microorganisms to product. Available at: https://www.iso.org/standard/75058.
proliferate. Some microorganisms can also eas- html
ily proliferate in less nutritious conditions, such 4. ICCR (2019). Report for the International Cooperation on
Cosmetics Regulation (ICCR). Overview of key scientific
as process water.
elements and principles to be considered in ensuring
Temperature: Cosmetics and personal care access to an appropriate palette of preservatives. Avail-
products are produced at a temperature that is able at: https://www.iccr-cosmetics.org//downloads/
topics/2019-10_overview_of_key_scientific_elements_and_
favorable for most microorganisms to prolifer-
principles_-_preservatives.pdf
ate (approximately 20°C to 40°C).
5. Araki, H., Hamada, S., ... Ookawa, M., et al. (2018). An
pH: pH levels that are generally considered offensive defense: Minimizing preservatives, maximizing
as low risk, microbiologically, are 3 and under protection and resources. Available at: https://www.cos-
meticsandtoiletries.com/formulating/function/preservatives/
or 10 and over.9 The pH of many cosmet-
An-Offensive-Defense-Minimizing-Preservatives-Maximizing-
ics and personal care products is around Protection-and-Resources-475204783.html
neutral, however, so they are susceptible to 6. Araki, H., et al. (2018). An offensive defense: Minimizing
microbial proliferation. preservatives, maximizing protection and resources. Frag J
46(11) 70-77 (in Japanese).
Time: In general, bacteria divide once every
7. ISO (2007). ISO 22716:2007. Cosmetics–good manufactur-
several tens of minutes under the appropriate ing practices (GMP)–Guidelines on good manufacturing
conditions. Given this rate, one bacterium pro- practices. Available at: https://www.iso.org/standard/36437.
liferates into more than 108 bacteria overnight. html
Since it is difficult to keep a manufacturing 8. PCPC (2018). PCPC 2018 microbiology guidelines (PDF
download). Available at: https://bit.ly/3dIaxxj
environment aseptic, it is necessary to control
9. ISO (2017). ISO 29621:2017. Cosmetics–microbiol-
production surroundings and processes in order ogy–guidelines for the risk assessment and identification
to prevent microbial proliferation. of microbiologically low-risk products. Available at: https://
www.iso.org/standard/68310.html
Conclusion—Part I
This first part of our article series briefly
introduced the characteristics of—and growth
conditions for—microorganisms in a manu-
Watch for Part II
Part II of this series will be coming in the May 2021 issue of
facturing environment. While it is a high-level
Cosmetics & Toiletries, highlighting case studies in raw materials.
overview, this much knowledge is sufficient to
explain the causes of almost all the microbial http://www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com/DM

Testing | C&T ®
KEY POINTS
• Many clean beauty edicts emphasize the
replacement of synthetic ingredients with
sustainable and natural-derived materials
wherever possible. Maintaining the same
or better efficacy, however, poses a
formulation challenge.
• This article explores the efficacy of

multipurpose natural wax/surfactant blend to
replace several traditional materials with one.
‘Cleaning Up’
Sun Care
Natural Wax/Surfactant Blend
for Sustainable Performance
Martina Issleib and Lars Jung
Symrise AG, Holzminden, Germany

| www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com
50@cosmeticsandtoiletries all or part of this article is strictly prohibited. Vol. 136, No. 4 | April 2021
CT2104_Testing_Isselieb_fcx.indd 50 3/19/21 12:23 PM

R
Peer-reviewed
ising public concerns of oil, electrolytes and pigments. This can

for the environ- lead to instabilities in the final product.
ment have led to a • A lack of film-forming and/or uneven droplet
higher demand for distribution can prevent UV filters from
responsibly sourced providing their full protection capacity.
and sustainable • Skin feel and texture can be negatively
cosmetic ingredients. Furthermore, consumers affected by high oil content. In relation, film-
expect products such as sunscreens to perform forming products promising to retain water
multiple functions—from providing highly resistance can lead to a tacky or dull sensa-
effective UV protection and optimal water tion on skin, which may decrease consumer
resistance, to feeling light and dry on the skin; acceptance and expectations.
all while remaining stable. However, many • The water resistance of sunscreen emulsions
ingredients used to optimize the performance of can be negatively impacted by the higher
sunscreens, such as SPF-boosters, film-formers emulsifier concentrations required to achieve
and other synthetic and silicone-derived raw stable formulations.
materials, have come under scrutiny due to • The desire for more natural sunscreens seeks
sourcing, environmental, etc., concerns. to exclude or reduce synthetic or silicone-
The formulator’s dilemma is therefore to based ingredients wherever possible.
find sustainably sourced alternatives to these To address these challenges, a mul-
ingredients without compromising perfor- tifunctional blenda was developed
mance, stability and aesthetics in the resulting based on beeswax and a naturally
product. Specific challenges formulators may derived anionic lactic acid ester,
face in developing sunscreens include the whose use in formulas can enhance
following: the Natural Origin Content (accord-
ing to ISO 16128).1, 2 Both materials
• High-SPF
are globally approved, biodegradable
sunscreen
and based on 100% renewable sources,
emulsions
providing a versatile and sustainable option
require
for modern sunscreens. Various tests,
higher levels
described herein, explored the ability
of this blend to boost SPF, contribute
to homogenous droplet distribution
in emulsions, improve water resistance,
form an even film on skin and maintain
formula stability—all while imparting
consumer-acceptable esthetics.
In vivo SPF Performance

Reaching the desired sun protection factor
can be a challenge depending on the formula-
tion and the chosen UV filters. Thus, to evaluate
a
SymEffect Sun (INCI: Cera Alba (and) Sodium Stearoyl
Lactylate) is a product of Symrise.


'Cleaning Up' Sun Care
The use of PBSA can significantly decrease

the water resistance of sunscreens.
the effects of the natural blend on SPF in vivo,

sunscreen emulsions with sun protection factors
As the sun care market rises, consumers are
from 20 to 50+ were developed using different
opting for more organic sunscreens, which includes
levels of the blend and compared with placebo
items free from synthetics such as oxybenzone,
formulations. Varying formulation bases and UV
avobenzone, octisalate and homosalate.
filter combinations also were tested.
The SPFs were determined by different
Source: Transparency Market Research (TMR) independent and accredited institutes, measured
according to ISO 24444:2010, with the SPF
determined on a reduced indicative
panel of 5-6 subjects.3 These results
indicated the emulsions incorpo-
rating the multifunctional blend
provided in vivo SPFs that were
10-27% higher than their respective
placebo formulation, at confidence
intervals from 9.3-20.2%. These
results were promising and deemed
acceptable for screening with a
reduced panel, given that ISO
24444:2010 defines a maximum
±17% confidence interval as
sufficient for a full test on at least
10 subjects.
Figure 1 shows the SPFs of the
different formulations, compared
with their placebos. Note that no
linear correlation between the
blend amount and SPF increase
was apparent; the blend appeared
Figure 1. SPF Performance of Test Formulas to affect different aspects influ-
encing the performance of the
sunscreen formulas.
Formulation Stability
As noted above, the oil phase
typically comprises a large part of
traditional sunscreen formulations,
particularly for high SPFs. What’s
more, water-soluble UV filters
increase the electrolyte content and
in turn the number of inorganic UV
filters that may be required. These
Figure 2. Microscopic droplet distribution of sunscreen dynamics frequently lead to formu-
formulations without and with the multifunctional blend lation instability but counteracting
them by increasing the emulsifier

concentration can negatively impact the water- Low-viscosity Formulation
resistance of the final formulation.
The multifunctional blend, however,
Application
contributes to a more homogeneous droplet Low-viscosity sunscreens have grown in
distribution in formulas, as microscopic images popularity in recent years. In relation, the
of various o/w emulsions revealed. Figure 2 authors examined the multifunctional blend’s
shows an example of the droplet distribution in compatibility with this application form. Since
sunscreen formulations using 2% of the blend the blend is based on a wax with a high melting
versus the placebo wherein water replaced the point, one might expect it to increase the final
blend (600× magnification). product viscosity, which would be counter-pro-
The smaller and more homogeneously ductive for the development of fluid emulsions.
distributed oil droplets in the test formula are To evaluate the effect of the multifunctional
a good indication of formulation stability. A blend in a fluid sunscreen formula, an emulsion
long-term stability test of both formulations based on a liquid emulsifier and xanthan gum
also confirmed the positive influence of the test as the thickening polymer was prepared using
blend. The emulsion with the blend was stable increasing amounts of the multifunctional blend
for 3 months at elevated temperatures, while (see Formula 1).
1 To assess viscosity, a rheom-
the placebo formula began to separate after 1 eterb was used to take measurements 24 hr after
month of storage at 45°C and higher (data not manufacturing and after 3 months of storage
shown). Considering this stability, it would not at room temperature and 40°C. The results (see
be necessary to increase the amount of emulsi- Figure 3)
3 illustrate that virtually no change
fiers used or to add co-emulsifiers. b
DV-III Ultra Rheometer (spindle CP51,10 rpm, 20°C),
Ametek Brookfield

in viscosity was detected. This indicated the sunscreens—and water-resistance is an impor-

multifunctional blend could be used not only tant attribute especially in beach products and
in creams and lotions, but also in low-viscosity children’s sunscreens with high SPFs.
systems while still supporting the long-term Water resistance: The effects of the multifunc-
stability of an emulsion's viscosity. tional blend on water resistance in sunscreens
were therefore tested in the presence of the
Water Resistance and hydrophilic UV filter PBSA. Assessments were
Film Forming made in an o/w emulsion containing 2% water
Combinations of oil- and water-soluble UV soluble UV filter and 3% of the blend without
filters may exhibit a synergistic effect on the in additional film-forming products, compared
vivo SPF of sunscreens. As such, formulators with the same formulation without the blend
often use both types together in a sunscreen (placebo). The emulsions were again measured
emulsion. In doing so, it is possible to decrease by an accredited and independent test institute
the overall UV filter amount; in addition, reduc- for their water resistance on ten subjects, accord-
ing the amounts of oil-soluble UV filters can ing to the COLIPA guidelines for evaluating sun
improve the skin feel of the final formulation. product water resistance.4 Figure 4 shows the
One water-soluble ingredient, phenylbenz- performance of the formulation with the multi-
imidazole sulfonic acid (PBSA), when used in its functional blend versus the placebo. As can be
salt form is a potent UVB filter. However, its use seen, the multifunctional blend improved water
can significantly decrease the water resistance of resistance by more than 20%.
Formula 1. SPF 40 Test Sunscreen
Placebo Multifunctional Blend

Ingredient (% w/w) (% w/w)
A. Glyceryl Oleate Citrate (and) Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride 2.00 2.00
(Dracorin GOC, Symrise)
Cera Alba (and) Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate — 1.50-4.00
(SymEffect Sun, Symrise)
Octocrylene (Neo Heliopan 303, Symrise) 10.00 10.00
Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane (Neo Heliopan 357, Symrise) 5.00 5.00
Homosalate (Neo Heliopan HMS, Symrise) 10.00 10.00
Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine 3.00 3.00
(Neo Heliopan BMT, Symrise)
Ethylhexyl Salicylate (Neo Heliopan OS, Symrise) 5.00 5.00
Propanediol Dicaprylate/Caprate (SymMollient PDCC, Symrise) 3.00 3.00
Ethylhexyl Isononanoate (Dragoxat 89, Symrise) 2.00 2.00
Cetearyl Ethylhexanoate (PCL-Liquid 100, Symrise) 2.00 2.00
Disodium EDTA 0.10 0.10
B. Xanthan Gum 0.60 0.60
C. Water (Aqua) 51.55 50.05-47.55
Glycerin 1.50 1.50
Hydroxyacetophenone (SymSave H, Symrise) 0.50 0.50
Pentylene Glycol (Hydrolite 5 Green, Symrise) 1.00 1.00
Caprylyl Glycol (Hydrolite CG, Symrise) 0.25 0.25
Carnosine (Dragosine, Symrise) 0.20 0.20
D. Calcium Starch Octenylsuccinate 2.00 2.00
Fragrance (Parfum) 0.30 0.30
100.00 100.00

Reducing the amounts
of oil-soluble
UV filters can improve
the skin feel of
the final formulation.
Figure 3. Results of comparative viscosity

measurements with increasing amount of
multifunctional blend

Film-forming: To determine film-

forming properties, sunscreen lotions with
and without 1.5% of the multifunctional
blend were distributed on microscope glass
slides and dried at room temperature for
30 min. While drying, the lotion without the
blend created an inhomogeneous film with
droplets on the surface whereas with the
blend, the dried emulsion did not form such
droplets. This suggests that after drying,
Figure 4. Results of comparative viscosity the ingredients of the water and oil phases
measurements with increasing amount of remained homogeneously distributed (see
multifunctional blend Figure 5).
5 As such, even in the presence of
water-soluble sunscreen filters, additional
Formula 2. SPF 30 Sensory Test Sunscreen
EU INCI Multifunctional Blend Benchmark

A Potassium Cetyl Phosphate (and) Hydrogenated Palm (% w/w) (% w/w)
Glycerides (Emulsiphos, Symrise) 2.00 2.00
Rhus Verniciflua Peel Cera 2.00 2.00
Octocrylene (Neo Heliopan 303, Symrise) 4.00 4.00
Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane (Neo Heliopan 357, Symrise) 3.50 3.50
Homosalate (Neo Heliopan HMS, Symrise) 4.00 4.00
Ethylhexyl Salicylate (Neo Heliopan OS, Symrise) 3.00 3.00
Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine 1.00 1.00
(Neo Heliopan BMT, Symrise)
Propanediol Dicaprylate/Caprate (SymMollient PDCC, Symrise) 3.00 3.00
Cetearyl Nonanoate (SymMollient S Green, Symrise) 1.00 1.00
Hexyldecanol (and) Bisabolol (and) Cetylhydroxyproline
Palmitamide (and) Stearic Acid (and) Brassica Campestris
Sterols (SymRepair 100, Symrise) 1.00 1.00
Cera Alba (and) Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate (SymEffect Sun, Symrise) 2.00 —
Stearyl Dimethicone — 2.00
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (and) Hydroxymethoxyphenyl Decanone
(SymDecanox HA, Symrise) 2.00 2.00
Disodium EDTA 0.10 0.10
Xanthan Gum 0.05 0.05
Xanthan Gum 0.40 0.40
B Water (Aqua) 64.05 64.05
Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid (Neo Heliopan Hydro, Symrise) 1.00 1.00
Arginine (Biotive L-Arginine, Symrise) 0.75 0.75
Water (Aqua) (and) Pentylene Glycol (and) Sodium Lauryl
Sulfoacetate (and) Sodium Oleoyl Sarcosinate (and)
Sodium Chloride (and) Sodium Oleate (SymSol PF-3, Symrise) 1.00 1.00
Carnosine (Dragosine, Symrise) 0.20 0.20
Pentylene Glycol (Hydrolite 5 Green, Symrise) 2.00 2.00
Hydroxyacetophenone (SymSave H, Symrise) 0.50 0.50
Caprylyl Glycol (Hydrolite CG, Symrise) 0.25 0.25
Phenoxyethanol 0.20 0.20
C Tapioca Starch 1.00 1.00
100.00 100.00

film-forming products to enhance water resistance
would not be necessary, further decreasing the potential
for compromised esthetics.
Consumer Acceptance
Finally, the success of sunscreen can be exempli-
fied by consumer acceptance and purchase, and one
of the most important parameters for this is sensorial
performance; or, in short, the skin feel of a product. The
expectation for sunscreens is a light and dry skin feel,
even for high-SPF products.
To evaluate the influence of the multifunctional
blend on a product’s skin feel, a sensory assessment was
carried out comparing a sunscreen emulsion using 2%
of the test blend with another using the silicone-derived
film-former stearyl dimethicone in its place (also at 2%)
(see Formula 2).2
Carried out in a trained test panel of 13 participants,
the assessment was divided into three aspects (see
Figure 6): first impression (turquoise), during applica-
Figure 6
tion (gray) and after application (pink). The panel results
indicated no significant deviations between the two
emulsions. Small differences were indicated, however.
For the first impression, assessing pick up, peaking,
cushion and consistency, the formulation with the mul-
tifunctional blend was rated better than that with stearyl
dimethicone. During application, the multifunctional
Figure 5. Emulsions with and without

multifunctional blend after 30 min drying at RT

Consumers are looking for clean sunscreens that have a light and dry skin feel without compromising high SPF.
blend was found to be less waxy and blunt, and in sunscreen emulsions using the single ingredi-
had lower whitening. After application, the ents of the blend versus the blend itself showed
emulsion with the multifunctional blend was a boosting effect only for the blend (data not
rated as waxier, and overall acceptance was shown). Consequently, it does not appear that
rated slightly higher
than the silicone
formulation (data
not shown).
Taken together, the
multifunctional blend
provided esthetics
at least comparable
to a silicone-derived
film-former. The blend
also enabled a con-
temporary skin feel,
with almost no tack
and low oiliness in a
sunscreen emulsion
without silicone.
Discussion
The multifunctional
blend described here
showed various benefits
in sunscreen formula-
tions. The precise
mechanism behind its
impact on SPF is not Figure 6. SPF 30 sun care lotion with 2%
known. Interestingly, in multifunctional blend vs. 2% stearyl dimethicone
vitro SPF comparisons

one ingredient or one function of the blend, gest this single blend could be used to replace
e.g., film-forming or droplet distribution, could multiple synthetic materials in sunscreens for
explain the boosting effect in all formulation simpler and cleaner formulations.
bases. Complex interactions between the blend's
ingredients and the other ingredients of the References:
formulations are more likely the answer. For the 1. ISO 16128-1:2016 Guidelines on technical definitions
blend’s positive impact on droplet distribution, and criteria for natural and organic cosmetic ingredients
it is assumed that the lactic acid ester portion of and products—Part 1: Definitions for ingredients. (2016).
International Organization for Standardization (ISO). https://
the blend is the main contributing factor, due to www.iso.org/standard/62503.html
its emulsifying ability. 2. ISO 16128-2:2017 Cosmetics —guidelines on technical
definitions and criteria for natural and organic cosmetic
Conclusion ingredients—Part 2: Criteria for ingredients and products.
(2017). International Organization for Standardization (ISO).
Described here is a multifunctional blenda https://www.iso.org/standard/65197.html
of beeswax and a naturally derived anionic 3. ISO 24444:2010 cosmetics—sun protection test meth-
lactic acid ester that is sustainably sourced and ods—in vivo determination of the sun protection factor
100% renewable. Its efficacy for meeting several (SPF) (2010). International Organization for Standardization
(ISO). https://www.iso.org/standard/46523.html
challenges faced by sunscreen formulators was
4. Guidelines for evaluating sun product water resistance.
tested, revealing SPF-boosting efficacy, water (2005, Dec) COLIPA.
resistance, contributions to emulsion stability
and gentle film-forming without a negative
impact on formula esthetics. The results sug-

Formulating | C&T ®
KEY POINTS
• A hyaluronic acid and retinoic acid derivative
were developed to combine their individual
anti-acne and anti-aging efficacies.
• In vitro and in vivo testing, described

here, showed the conjugate penetrated
skin to exert the desired biological
activities—in low concentrations
and without irritation.
@cosmeticsandtoiletries

CT2103_Formulating_Orzol_fcx.indd 60 3/29/21 2:30 PM

Safe and
Strategic Hyaluronic and Retinoic Acid Derivative
Allays Aging and Acne
Paulina Orzol, Iva Doleckova, Jana Starigazdova,
Gloria Huerta-Angeles and Vladimir Velebny
Contipro A.S., Dolni Dobrouc, Czech Republic
R etinoids are a group of active molecules

comprising vitamin A and its natural and
synthetic derivatives. Commonly used in
cosmetic products, these lipophilic mole-
cules bind to specific nuclear receptors that
modulate the expression of genes involved
in cellular proliferation and differentiation,1 e.g., of keratinocytes, which
can normalize desquamation.2 The topical application of retinoic acid,
for one, has been shown to improve clinical features of aged skin by
reducing wrinkles and diminishing hyperpigmentation.3
Products based on retinoids are U.S. Food and Drug Administration
(FDA)-approved ingredients for topical acne therapies. Clinical data
shows these agents to be highly efficacious on both non-inflammatory
Editor’s note: The present and inflammatory acne lesions2, 4 due to their comedolytic and anti-
article proposes a novel inflammatory effects.4 The mechanism of action for retinoids is based
conjugate for the formulation
of anti-aging and anti-acne on their ability to block several important inflammatory pathways that
cosmetics. In relation, are activated in acne: toll-like receptors, leukocyte migration and the
readers are reminded that in AP 1 pathway.5
the United States, anti-acne
In parallel, hyaluronic acid (HA) that naturally occurs in the human
products are regulated as
over-the-counter (OTC) drugs body plays a multifaceted role in regulating various biological processes
by the U.S. Food and Drug such as skin repair, wound healing and tissue regeneration, and shows
Administration (FDA). As immunomodulating properties.6, 7 Due to its strong water-binding poten-
such, formulas must follow
tial, HA helps the skin to hold and maintain elasticity and moisture, and
the monograph if anti-acne
treatment claims are to be as such, is widely used as an active ingredient in cosmetic formulations
made on products. to improve skin hydration and overall signs of aging.8, 9

Safe and Strategic
A novel ester described here comprising

low molecular weight HA substituted with
retinoic acid facilitated skin penetration and
enhanced skin properties without irritation.
Taken together, the present work explored either 100 µg/mL of HA, or 100 µg/mL (= 5
the biological effects of a novel ester composed International Units, IU) of the test conjugate or
of low molecular weight (LMW) HA substituted other retinoids including retinol, retinyl pal-
with retinoic acida, which was prepared with mitate and retinyl acetate (5 IU) for 24 hr. The
the aim of combining the unique features of expression of the IL-6 gene was determined by
each material to improve stability, facilitate skin qRT-PCR. A student’s t-test was used for statisti-
penetration and enhance their impact on vari- cal analysis (**p < 0.01, in comparison with
ous skin properties. Specific parameters of the UV-irradiated control).
conjugate were tested as described here, includ- Results of cytokine expression: Results
ing effects on inflammation, erythema, sebum showed the test conjugate (100 µg/mL) reduced
levels and pore size, in relation to acne; collagen the expression of pro-inflammatory cytokines
and fibronectin, hydration, skin structure and interleukins-6 after UVB irradiation in vitro. The
wrinkles/elasticity, for anti-aging effects; and anti-inflammatory activity of the test material
overall penetration into the dermis. appeared to be stronger than for HA alone
or the other retinoids used at equal IUs (see
Acne Assessments Figure 1).
Figure 1
Retinoids are often the first choice for acne Sebum, erythema and pore size in vivo:
treatments as they have been found to decrease Next, in vivo assessments were made of creams
sebaceous gland size, inhibit lipogenesis,10, 12 with or without (placebo) the test conjugate in
induce sebocyte apoptosis12 and possess anti- a panel of 14 Caucasian women (ages 37-58)
inflammatory properties.13 Their significant with normal, non-acneic skin. The test subjects
anti-inflammatory effects are mediated by the applied a cream with 0.01% of the test conjugate
inhibition of various immune factors, includ- once daily for six weeks to one half of their face
ing pro-inflammatory cytokine production.14, 15 and a placebo cream to the other half. Measure-
These effects were measured in vitro in HaCaT ments were obtained at 0, 14, 28 and 42 days for
keratinocytes treated with or without the sebum contentb, erythema indexc and skin pore
test conjugatea. size; the latter was determined by analyzing
Pro-inflammatory cytokine expression pictures captured by a high-resolution camerad.
in vitro: Inflammation was induced in HaCaT Results of sebum, erythema and pore
keratinocytes treated by UVB irradiation (10 size tests: Results showed the test conjugate
mJ/cm2), after which the cells were treated with down-regulated sebum content and reduced
the number and size of skin pores (see Figure
2a-d). Moreover, a decrease in the erythema
2a-d
a
HyRetin (INCI: Sodium Retinoyl Hyaluronate),
Contipro, A.S. index was noted (see Figure 2b;2b; p = 0.0324).
0.0324)
These results confirmed the anti-inflammatory
properties of the test conjugate as well as its
Skin care is projected to reach US $185.5 billion by non-irritating status after prolonged use; this is
2027, with a CAGR of 3.6% from 2020-2027. Anti- in contrast to other retinoids, where irritation
aging will outpace the segment with CAGR of 3.8%; is common.16 The material can therefore also be
anti-acne will come in with a 2.7% CAGR. deemed suitable for sensitive skin.
b
Sebumeter
Source: Reportlinker c
Mexameter
d
VisioFace

Blemishes and erythema
in vivo and subjective
reports: In a second in vivo
evaluation, a cream con-
taining 0.01% of the test
conjugate was applied to one
half of the face by 16 vol-
unteers (1 man, 15 women)
having problematic acne-
prone skin once daily for
four weeks; a placebo cream
was applied to the other half
of the face. Representative
pictures of overall skin condi-
tion on the cheeks were taken
before and after four weeks of
application. Subjective evalu-
ations of changes in various **p < 0.01
acne-related parameters were

reported by the volunteers via Figure 1. UV-induced expression of pro-inflammatory
a questionnaire. interleukin-6 in human keratinocytes
Figure 2. Acne-related skin parameters assessments of normal skin in vivo

Safe and Strategic
Figure 3. Blemish and erythema results in vivo (a) and user ratings (b)

After four weeks of daily treatment,
the test conjugate reduced both the
number and size of pimples and erythema.
Results in blemishes, erythema and subjec- Results on collagen expression in vitro: An
tive reports: Results after four weeks of daily statistically significant induction of collagen 1
treatment with the test conjugatea showed a expression in 3T3 fibroblasts was observed with
visible improvement in the overall skin condi- the test conjugatea, supporting its presumed
tion, which reduced both the number and size anti-aging activity (see Figure 4a).
4a These effects
of pimples and erythema (see Figure 3a).
3a In were notably more effective than those of the
addition, subjective evaluations rated the test individual retinoids; i.e., retinol, retinyl palmitate
cream as more effective than the placebo cream and retinyl acetate. This collagen up-regulation
(see Figure 3b).
3b was confirmed ex vivo by the immunohisto-
chemical staining of collagen I in skin explants
Anti-aging Assessments treated with 100 µg/mL of the test conjugate for
Based on previous reports of anti-aging 24 hr (see Figure 4b).
4b
efficacy for both HA and retinoids,10 the influence Dermal papillae and density in vivo: To
of the test conjugatea on the production of dermis test the observed in vitro effects in vivo, a cream
components also was presumed. As such, it was containing 0.01% of the test conjugatea was
tested in vitro for effects in collagen. applied by 14 women with normal skin (37-58
Collagen expression in vitro: qRT PCR was years) once daily for six weeks to one half of the
used to assess the effects on collagen 1 (COL1 face; a placebo cream was applied to the other
gene) production in 3T3 dermal fibroblasts half. The number of dermal papillae was deter-
treated with 100 µg/mL HA, 100 µg/mL (= 5 IU) mined at days 0, 14, 28 and 42 by reflectance
of the test conjugate or other retinoids (= 5 IU) confocal microscopy quantificatione (see Figure
for 24 hr. Immunohistochemical staining addi- 5a-b). Dermal density was quantified at the same
5a-b
tionally was used to confirm effects on collagen in time points by ultrasonographyf (see Figure 5c-d;5c-d
skin explants treated with 100 µg/mL of the test green = collagen in d; *p < 0.05; ***p < 0.001).
conjugate for 24 hr. A student’s t-test was used for
e
Vivascope
statistical analysis (*p < 0.05; ***p < 0.001). f
Ultrascan

Safe and Strategic
*p < 0.05; ***p < 0.001
Figure 4. Changes in collagen induction (a) and confirmation by immunohistochemical

staining (b)
Dermal papillae number (a), dermal papillae representative images (b), dermal density by ultrasonography (c) and density
representative images (green = collagen) (d)
Figure 5. Changes in skin structure components

Increases in the number of dermal papillae and the dermal density were observed with the cream containing 0.01% of the test conjugate.
Results in dermal papillae and density: of fluorescent Nile red dye (1µg/mL) with or
Improvements in the dermal structure were without the test material (1 mg/mL) in PBS was
confirmed in vivo. Significant increases in the applied to skin explants placed into Franz cells
number of dermal papillae and the dermal and incubated 24 hr at 37°C. Red fluorescence
density were observed in normal skin treated was then observed in skin cross-sections using
daily with the cream containing 0.01% of the test fluorescence microscopy.
conjugate, in comparison with the placebo cream Penetration results: The dye combined with
(see Figures 5a-b).
5a-b the test conjugate penetrated through the epi-
Wrinkles, elasticity and hydration in vivo: dermis to the dermis; applied alone, it did not
Additional in vivo measurements were taken penetrate the skin and remained in the stratum
in the same in vivo study to assess the effects corneum (see Figure 7).
7 As the test material
of the test active on skin wrinkles, elasticity is an amphiphilic molecule containing hydro-
and hydration. Changes in skin wrinkles were philic HA and hydrophobic retinoyl moieties, it
quantified at days 0, 14, 28 and 42 by analyzing most likely created micelle-like structures that
images obtained by a high-resolution camerad. enclosed the lipophilic dye, which penetrated
Elasticity was determined instrumentallyg at the skin deep into the dermis.
the same time points by measuring the tir-
ing of skin after repeated mechanical stress; Conclusion
the lower, the better. Skin hydration also was Based on the properties of retinoids and HA,
measured instrumentallyh. their combination in conjugated ingredienta
Results in wrinkles, elasticity and hydra- was shown here to enhance anti-inflammatory
tion: The previous improvements in dermal effects in vitro, which were confirmed in vivo by
structure led to the visible changes in skin a reduction in the skin erythema index. Its abil-
properties measured here; including wrinkle ity to decrease sebum content and the number
reduction (see Figures 6a-b)
6a-b and an increase in of pores and their size also was observed on
skin elasticity (see Figure 6c).
6c Furthermore, due the faces of volunteers with normal skin. Since
to the presence of HA in the test conjugate, skin these parameters are often associated with acne,
hydration was also improved, in comparison an additional in vivo study in volunteers with
with the placebo (see Figure 6d).
6d This added problematic, acne-prone skin confirmed the test
benefit supports proper SC maturation and skin ingredient visibly improved the problematic skin
desquamation,17 contributing to the anti-aging condition by reducing pimples and skin redness.
effects observed. The test cream containing the material also was
rated highly by the volunteers.
Skin Penetration Efficacy Moreover, the anti-aging effect of the test
Finally, to determine the penetration abil- conjugate was confirmed in vitro by its ability
ity of the test conjugatea, a lipophilic solution to induce collagen synthesis. The stimulation of
this important dermal component strengthens
g
Cutometer the skin and improves the extracellular matrix
h
Corneometer

Safe and Strategic
microenvironment, which was reflected by the the improvement of acne-prone skin conditions as
observed increase in dermal density and papillae well as for overall improvements in typical features
number in vivo. Further in vivo results showed the of aged skin, such as wrinkles, laxity dryness
derivative improved skin elasticity, reduced wrinkle and sensitivity.
depth and increased skin hydration.
Based on these results, the test conjugate References
appears to leverage both of its components—the 1. Sorg, O., et al. (2006). Retinoids in cosmeceuticals. Dermatol
retinoid and the HA—to enhance their benefits for Ther 19(5) 289-96.
anti-inflammatory, anti-acne and anti-aging prop- 2. Gollnick, H.P. (2015). From new findings in acne pathogenesis
erties. Furthermore, the derivative demonstrated to new approaches in treatment. J Eur Acad Dermatol Venereol
29 suppl 5 1-7.
improved effects over retinoids alone, which is
3. Fisher, G.J., et al. (1999). Molecular mechanisms of photoaging
most likely due to better skin penetration. To in human skin in vivo and their prevention by all-trans retinoic
conclude, this novel derivative could be useful for acid. Photochem Photobiol 69(2) 154-7.
*p < 0.05; ***p < 0.001
Figure 6. Effects in wrinkles (a-b), elasticity (c) and hydration (d) in vivo

In vivo, the derivative improved skin elasticity, reduced wrinkle depth and increased skin hydration.
4. Leyden, J., Stein-Gold, L. and Weiss, J. (2017). Why topical 11. Zouboulis, C.C., et al. (1991). Effects of 13-cis-retinoic acid,
retinoids are mainstay of therapy for acne. Dermatol Ther all-trans-retinoic acid, and acitretin on the proliferation,
(Heidelb) 7(3) 293-304. lipid synthesis and keratin expression of cultured human
5. Czernielewski, J., et al. (2001). Adapalene biochemistry and sebocytes in vitro. J Invest Dermatol 96(5) 792-7.
the evolution of a new topical retinoid for treatment of acne. 12. Nelson, A.M., et al. (2011). TRAIL contributes to the apop-
J Eur Acad Dermatol Venereol 15 suppl 3 5-12. totic effect of 13-cis retinoic acid in human sebaceous gland
6. Chen, L.H., et al. (2018). Hyaluronic acid, an efficient cells. Br J Dermatol 165(3) 526-33.
biomacromolecule for treatment of inflammatory skin and 13. Leyden, J.J., et al. (2005). Topical retinoids in inflammatory
joint diseases: A review of recent developments and critical acne: A retrospective, investigator-blinded, vehicle-con-
appraisal of preclinical and clinical investigations. Int J Biol trolled, photographic assessment. Clin Ther 27(2) 216-24.
Macromol 116 572-584. 14. Mathew, J.S. and Sharma, R.P. (2000). Effect of all-
7. Narurkar, V.A., et al. (2016). Rejuvenating hydrator: Restor- trans-retinoic acid on cytokine production in a murine
ing epidermal hyaluronic acid homeostasis with instant macrophage cell line. Int J Immunopharmacol 22(9)
benefits. J Drugs Dermatol 15(1 suppl 2) s24-37. 693-706.
8. Wang, F., et al. (2007). In vivo stimulation of de novo col- 15. Liu, P.T., et al. (2005). Cutting edge: All-trans retinoic acid
lagen production caused by cross-linked hyaluronic acid down-regulates TLR2 expression and function. J Immunol
dermal filler injections in photodamaged human skin. Arch 174(5) 2467-70.
Dermatol 143(2) 155-63. 16. Mukherjee, S., et al. (2006). Retinoids in the treatment of
9. Stern, R. and Maibach, H.I. (2008). Hyaluronan in skin: skin aging: An overview of clinical efficacy and safety. Clin
Aspects of aging and its pharmacologic modulation. Clin Interv Aging 1(4) 327-48.
Dermatol 26(2) 106-22. 17. Watkinson, A., et al. (2001). Water modulation of stratum
10. Landthaler, M., et al. (1980). Inhibitory effects of 13-cis- corneum chymotryptic enzyme activity and desquamation.
retinoic acid on human sebaceous glands. Arch Dermatol Arch Dermatol Res 293(9) 470-6.
Res 269(3) 297-309.
*p < 0.05; ***p < 0.001
Figure 7. Penetration of test conjugate with Nile red vs. Nile red dye alone into the epidermis
and dermis

Formulating | C&T ®
The following prototype formulas are

offered for your consideration as a basis
from which to build your own, and for
further testing and validation. The infor-
mation is listed as originally provided by
suppliers; note that in some cases, compa-
nies or ingredients may have changed.
Want More Formulas?

Click to page DM25 for the expanded
formulary, complete with interactive links to the
free Cosmetics & Toiletries Bench Reference.
Sun Protection Formulary

SUNSCREEN CREAM SPF 45 A. Water (aqua) 71.90% w/w
B. Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Dicetyl Phosphate (and) Ceteth-10
(Acme-Hardesty Co.) Phosphate (Crodafos CES, Croda) 5.00
Cocoglycerides (Myritol 331, BASF SE) 6.00
Climate change and global warming have made Squalane (Fitoderm, BASF SE) 2.00
sunscreens a part of consumers’ daily wear routines. C. Sodium Hydroxide qs
To improve sun protection, combining different UV D. Cyclohexasiloxane (and) Cyclopentasiloxane
filters and absorbers is a must, which consequently (Dow Corning 345 Fluid, Dow Corning Corp.) 3.00
increases the oily phase in the end formula. Using high Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer
amounts of non-polar preservatives in the oil phase, (Aristoflex AVC, Clariant Int., Ltd.) 0.40
however, poses risks of contamination since low-polar E. Caprylyl Glycol (and) Phenoxyethanol (and) Hexylene
preservatives tend to migrate into the oily phase, leaving Glycol (Diocide , Centerchem Inc.) 0.70
the aqueous phase unprotected. SharoSense Plus 184 Linum Alpinum Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract (and) Glycerin (and)
provides the answer. This innovative polar preservative Water (Aqua) (and) Citric Acid (and) Potassium Sorbate
system brings uncompromised antimicrobial efficacy at (Alpaflor Linum AO, DSM) 2.00
low use levels (0.7%). Citrullus Lanatus (Watermelon) Fruit Extract (and) Citrulline
(and) Glycerin (and) Water (Aqua) (and) Phenoxyethanol (and)
A. Water (aqua) qs to 100.00% w/w SodiumBenzoate (and) Potassium Sorbate
EDTA 0.10 (Pepha-Protect, DSM) 3.00
Maltol (and) Didecyldimonium Chloride
Procedure: Heat A and B to 75°C. Add B to A under homogenization. Cool with
(Sharosense Plus 184, Sharon Laboratories Ltd.) 0.70 sweep mixing. Adjust to pH 5.5-6.5 with NaOH solution. At 65°C, add D to batch.
Xanthan Gum 0.50 Homogenize, then resume sweep mixing. At 35°C, add E, mix until uniform, then
B. Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride 5.00 discontinue batch.
Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Cetearyl Glucoside
(Montanov 68, Seppic) 3.00
PVP/VP/Eicosene Copolymer (Antaron V-220, Ashland LLC) 3.00
Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate 7.50
MOISTURIZING SUNSCREEN
Octyl Salicylate 5.00 (Colonial Chemical Inc.)
Benzophenone-3 6.00
Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane 1.60 This formula is a smooth, pumpable high-protection
Homosalate 10.00 sunscreen cream that protects and moisturizes skin.
Titanium Dioxide 3.00
A. Potassium Cetyl Phosphate 1.20% w/w
Tocopheryl Acetate 1.10
Isostearamidopropyl PG-Dimonium Chloride 2.50
Ceteareth-20 (and) Cetearyl Alcohol (Cosmowax BP,
Water (aqua) 79.30
J and P, Croda) 3.00
Titanium Dioxide 0.40
Procedure: Heat water to 45-50°C. Add remaining A in the order listed with mixing, B. Cetyl Alcohol 2.00
ensuring complete dissolution before adding the next ingredient. Heat B to 50- Isopropyl Palmitate 2.00
60°C while stirring until melted and unified. Homogenize batch at approx. 55°C. C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate 1.60
Dimethicone 1.00
Octylmethoxy Cinnamate 6.00
DNA PROTECTIVE CREAM Methyl Anthranilate 3.00
(Centerchem Inc.) C. Fragrance (parfum) qs
Preservatives qs
This formula protects the skin’s DNA from UV Colorants qs
irradiation and free radicals. In addition, it contains an Procedure: Combine A and heat with agitation to 60°C. Separately combine B and
extract to target irritated or inflamed skin. heat to 60°C. Homogenize B into A, ensuring good emulsification. Stir and cool
to 45°C, then add C.
CT2104_Sun_Protection_Frmlry_fcx.indd 62 3/29/21 2:36 PM

EXPANDED Sun Protection Formulary
E. Butylparaben (and) Ethylparaben (and) Isobutylparaben

TRIPLE ACTION PROTECTIVE (and) Methylparaben (and) Phenoxyethanol (and)
LOTION WITH RCS, ROS AND Propylparaben (Phenonip, Clariant Int., Ltd.) 0.80
RNS SCAVENGERS Procedure: Heat A and B separately to approx. 85°C. Add A to B with stirring. Ho-
mogenize. Cool with gentle stirring to approx. 60°C. Add C to AB. Homogenize
(Centerchem Inc.) for a short time. Cool with gentle stirring. Add D and E below 40°C.
This triple action formula contains an RCS, ROS and

RNS scavenger. W/O SUN PROTECTION
A. Water (aqua) 78.60% w/w (SHAKE SHAKE) SPF 22 UVA
Carbomer (Carbopol Ultrez 10 Polymer, Lubrizol
Advanced Materials, Inc.) 0.20 (Evonik Industries AG)
Glycerin (and) Glyceryl Polyacrylate (Hispagel 200 NS, A. Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 Dimethicone (Abil EM 90,
BASF SE) 3.50 Evonik Industries AG) 1.00% w/w
B. Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Ceteareth-20 (Promulgen D Emulsifier, Phenoxyethyl Caprylate (Tegosoft XC, Evonik Industries AG) 11.00
Lubrizol Advanced Materials, Inc.) 2.00 Diethylhexyl Carbonate (Tegosoft DEC, Evonik Industries AG) 2.50
Glyceryl Stearate SE (Cutina GMS-SE, BASF SE) 1.25 Cyclomethicone 12.00
Cyclopentasiloxane (and) Dimethicone (and) Phenyl Octocrylene 6.00
Methicone (Stratagel 500, Centerchem Inc.) 8.00 Ethylhexyl Salicylate 2.00
C. Sodium Hydroxide 0.70 Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane 0.80
D. Caprylyl Glycol (and) Phenoxyethanol (and) Hexylene Glycol Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine
(Diocide , Centerchem Inc.) 0.70 (Tinosorb S, BASF SE) 1.50
Water (aqua) (and) Diaminopropionyl Tri-peptide-33 (and) PVP/Hexadecene Copolymer (Antaron V-216, Ashland LLC) 0.50
Caprylyl Glycol (Preventhelia, Lipotec SA) 5.00 B. Titanium Dioxide (Tego Sun T 805, Evonik Industries AG) 2.00
E. Dimethylmethoxy Chromanol (Lipochroman-6, Lipotec SA) 0.05 C. Water (aqua) 4.43
100.00 Sodium Hydroxide 0.07
Procedure: Separately heat A and B to 80°C. Add B to A with moderate mixing for Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid (Eusolex 232,
10 min. Begin cooling. At 50°C, add C to AB (use 10% NaOH). At 40°C, add D Merck KGaA) 0.50
to ABC. Premix E and add to batch. Mix until uniform, then discontinue batch. D. Water (aqua) 47.20
Glycerin 6.00
Distarch Phosphate 1.50
O/W SUN SPRAY Alcohol 1.00
E. Fragrance (parfum) qs
(Evonik Industries AG) Preservatives qs
A. Phenoxyethyl Caprylate (Tegosoft XC, Evonik Industries AG) 5.60% w/w Procedure: Heat Phase A to approx. 85°C. Disperse B into A. Prepare C until neutral-
Decyl Cocoate (Tegosoft DC, Evonik Industries AG) 2.50 ized, then add D to C. Add phase CD at 80°C or RT slowly, while stirring, to AB.
Cetearyl Alcohol (Tego Alkanol 1618, Evonik Industries AG) 0.50 Homogenize for a short time. Cool with gentle stirring and add E below 40°C.
Ethylhexyl Triazone (Uvinul T-150, BASF AG) 1.00 Homogenzie again below 30°C.
Octocrylene 10.00
Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane 1.50
Tocopheryl Acetate 0.50 QUICK ACTION CC STICK, SPF ~30
B. Cetearyl Glucoside (Tego Care CG 90, Evonik Industries AG) 1.00
Glycerin 2.00
(Grant Industries Inc.)
Water (aqua) 74.10 A. Dimethicone (and) Polysilicone-11 (and) Butyrospermum
C. Decyl Cocoate (Tegosoft DC, Evonik Industries AG) 0.40 Parkii (Shea) Butter (Gransil SBG-11, Grant Industries Inc.) 8.00% w/w
Carbomer 0.05 Lecithin 0.50
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer 0.05 Divinyldimethicone/Dimethicone/Phenylsilsesquioxane
D. Sodium Hydroxide qs Crosspolymer (Granpowder EDC-600, Grant Industries Inc.) 4.00
Carthamus Tinctorius (Safflower) Seed Oil 10.00
Glyceryl Oleate (Monomuls 90-O 18, BASF SE) 2.25
Tocopheryl Acetate 1.00
Cetearyl Alcohol 2.00
Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil 2.00
Dimethicone (Gransil 530, Grant Industries Inc.) 1.50
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (Protachem CTG, Protameen
Chemicals Inc.) 15.00
Beeswax 10.00
Polyethylene (Performalene 400 Polyethylene, New Phase
Technologies Inc.) 10.00
Titanium Dioxide (and) Coconut Alkanes (and) Stearic Acid
(and) Polyhydroxystearic Acid (and) Alumina (and)
Coco-Caprylate/Caprate (UV Cut TiO2-60-VL,
Grant Industries Inc.) 10.00
Zinc Oxide (and) Coconut Alkanes (and) Polyhydroxystearic
Acid (and) Coco-Caprylate/Caprate (and) Dimethicone
(UV Cut ZNO-72-NU, Grant Industries Inc.) 13.75
B. CI 77891 (and) Aluminum Hydroxide (and)
Triethoxycaprylylsilane (ALT-White TSR,
Miyoshi America, Inc.) 6.00
CI 77492 1.25
CI 77491 0.35

CI 77499 0.10
Mica 2.30
100.00
Procedure: Weigh A in main kettle equipped with a marine type propeller. Heat to
85-90°C. Mix until uniform. Micro-pulverize B. Add to A. Mix until uniform. Pour
samples at 80-85°C.
ZINC FLUID, SPF 40

(Grant Industries Inc.)
A. Water (aqua) 12.00% w/w
Propanediol 7.00
Benzyl Alcohol (and) Salicylic Acid (and) Glycerin (and)
Sorbic Acid (Geogard ECT, Lonza Home & Personal Care) 1.00
Water (aqua) (and) Boswellia Serrata Extract (and)
Centella Asiatica Extract (and) Betula Alba Extract
(and) Polygonum Cuspidatum Root Extract (and)
Phenoxyethanol (and) Sodium Benzoate (Youth 360
BCR, Bio Component Research) 3.00
Simethicone 0.10
Tromethamine 0.30
Polysorbate 20 0.10
B. C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate (Finsolv TN, Innospec) 4.50
Coco-Caprylate/Caprate (Cetiol LC, BASF SE) 3.00
Ethylhexyl Palmitate 3.00
Polyglyceryl-6 Polyricinoleate (and) Polyglyceryl-10 Dioleate
(Gransurf PG-14, Grant Industries Inc.) 8.00
Zinc Oxide (and) Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (and)
Polyhydroxystearic Acid (UV Cut ZnO-68-CG,
Grant Industries Inc.) 25.00
Lecithin 1.00
Isododecane (and) Disteardimonium Hectorite (and)
Propylene Carbonate (Bentone Gel ISD V, Elementis) 7.00
C. Dimethicone (and) Polysilicone-11 (and) Butyrospermum
Parkii (Shea) Butter (and) Water (aqua) (and) Glycerin (and)
Decyl Glucoside (Gransil SiW-038, Grant Industries Inc.) 10.00
Isododecane (and) Polymethylsilsesquioxane/
Trimethylsiloxysilicate (Granresin MQI-T50,
Grant Industries Inc.) 10.00 Isopropyl Palmitate (and) Lecithin (and) Water (aqua) (and)
Polymethylsilsesquioxane (Gransil PSQ, Grant Industries Inc.) 3.00 Acetyl Hexapeptide-1 (MeliNOIL, Lucas Meyer Cosmetics) 5.00
Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate 2.00 100.00
100.00
Procedure: Prepare A and heat at 70-80°C under slow stirring. When mixture is
Procedure: Weigh B in main kettle equipped with homogenizer. Heat to 80-85°C and homogeneous, cool under medium stirring. Add B (one by one) below 40°C.
mix until uniform. Weigh A in side kettle. Heat to 70-75°C and mix well. Once each
is at temperature, add A to B in main kettle and mix until uniform. Add C and mix
until uniform. Switch to side sweep agitation and cool to RT.
SHIMMERING PROTECTIVE SUN OIL
(Lucas Meyer Cosmetics)
PROTECTIVE SUN OIL
This protective sun oil is non-greasy and protects and
(Lucas Meyer Cosmetics)
nourishes the skin.
This sun protection oil features MeliNOIL, a sunless A. Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Oil 7.5% w/w
tanning agent. It imparts an SPF 10 in vitro, is non- Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil 15.0
greasy, and protects and nourishes the skin. Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride 7.5
Phospholipids (and) Glycine Soja (Soybean) Oil (and)
A. Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Oil 7.50% w/w Glycolipids (and) Glycine Soja (Soybean) Sterols
Ethylhexyl Salicylate 5.00 (Amisol Trio, Lucas Meyer Cosmetics) 2.0
Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil 15.00 Triheptanoin (Dermofeel TC-7, Dr. Straetmans
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride 7.50 Chemische Produkte GmbH) 8.9
Phospholipids (and) Glycine Soja (Soybean) Oil (and) Cetyl Ethylhexanoate (Schercemol CO Ester,
Glycolipids (and) Glycine Soja (Soybean) Sterols Lubrizol Advanced Materials, Inc.) 34.1%
(Amisol Trio, Lucas Meyer Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane (Eusolex 9020, Merck KGaA) 3.0
Cosmetics) 2.00 Octocrylene (Uvinul N-539 T, BASF AG) 5.0
Triheptanoin 8.90 Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate (Eusolex 2292, Merck KGaA) 5.0
Cetyl Ethylhexanoate 35.10 Ethylhexyl Salicylate (Eusolex OS, Merck KGaA) 5.0
Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane 3.00 B. Fragrance (parfum) 0.8
Octocrylene 5.00 Tocopherol (and) Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil
Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate 5.00 (Vitapherole E1000, VitaeNaturals) 0.2
B. Fragrance (parfum) 0.80 Isopropyl Palmitate (and) Lecithin (and) Water (aqua) (and)
Tocopherol (and) Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Acetyl Hexapeptide-1 (MeliNOIL, Lucas Meyer Cosmetics) 5.0
Seed Oil (Vitapherole E1000, VitaeNaturals) 0.20 Synthetic Fluorphlogopite 1.0

Procedure: Combine A and heat to 75–80°C. In a separate vessel, combine B and

heat to 75–80°C. Add B to A with rapid propeller stirring. Remove from heat and
continue to mix at moderate speed, immediately adding first two ingredients of
C. Cool to 35°C and mix in remainder of C.
SUNSCREEN
(Sabinsa)
A. Glyceryl Stearate 3.00% w/w
Cetyl Palmitate 1.00
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride 2.00
Isopropyl Myristate 4.00
Stearyl Alcohol 0.50
Dimethicone 1.00
Emulsifying Wax NF 2.00
B. Glycerin 1.00
Tetrasodium EDTA 2.00
Imidazolidinyl Urea 0.02
Sodium Methylparaben 0.15
Sodium Propylparaben 0.20
Water (aqua) qs
Citric Acid 0.02
C. Methylene Bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol
(Tinosorb M, BASF SE) 5.00
Kaempferia Galanga Root Extract (Galanga Extract, Sabinsa) 2.00
Octyl Methoxycinnamate 5.00
Tetrahydrodiferuloylmethane (and)
Tetrahydrodemethoxydiferuloylmethane (and)
Tetrahydrobisdemethoxydiferuloylmethane
Procedure: Prepare A and heat at 70-80°C under slow stirring. When mixture is ho- (Tetrahydrocurcuminoids CG, Sabinsa) 0.20
mogeneous, cool under medium stirring. Add phase B (one by one) below 40°C. D. Paraffinum Liquidum (Mineral) Oil (Salcare SC95, BASF SE) 1.00
Procedure: Combine A and heat to 70-75°C. Combine B in a separate vessel and
heat to 70-75°C. Add A to B with continuous agitation. When the temperature
NATURAL BOTANICALS HYDRATING is at 45°C, add C. Add D and mix to form a homogenous mixture.
TREATMENT FACE MASK
(Natural Plant Products)
Following the popular facical mask trend, this luxurious

treatment was designed to repair, protect and renew
tired skin. Meadowfoam Seed Oil absorbs quickly and
provides rapid, rich emollience. Daikon Seed Extract
gives it comfortable slip and provides a light non-
greasiness. Aurafirm contains natural actives, aiding
in improving skin health and helping boost cell turn-
over. Sodium hyaluronate provides deep water-binding
moisturization, while Lecigel provides a soothing
cooling sensation augmented by a subtly refreshing
cucumber fragrance. It is just the pick-up tired skin
needs to feel refreshed and restored.
A. Water (aqua) 88.20% w/w
Sodium Hyaluronate 0.10
EDTA (EDTA, American International Chemical Inc.) 0.10
B. Limnanthes Alba (Meadowfoam) Seed Oil 2.00
Raphanus Sativus (Radish) Seed Extract 1.00
Glyceryl Stearate Citrate (and) Polyglyceryl-3 Stearate (and)
Hydrogenated Lecithin (Heliofeel, Lucas Meyer Cosmetics) 2.00
Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter (Shea Butter, International
Cosmetics Science Centre A/S (ICSC)) 1.00
C. Sodium Acrylates Copolymer/Lecithin (Lecigel,
Lucas Meyer Cosmetics) 1.50
Xanthan Gum (and) Lecithin (and) Sclerotium Gum (and)
Pullulan (Siligel, Lucas Meyer Cosmetics) 1.00
Phenoxyethanol (and) Benzoic Acid (and) Ethylhexylglycerin
(and) Glycereth-2 Cocoate (Lincoserve PE610, Lincoln Fine
Ingredients, a Maroon Group Co.) 1.00
Fragrance (parfum) 0.10
Lactobacillus Ferment (and) Avena Sativa (Oat) Kernel Extract
(and) Sodium Benzoate (and) Potassium Sorbate
(Aurafirm P, Oat Cosmetics) 2.00
100.00

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Advertiser Index | C&T ®
April 2021 |
Volume 136, number 4
Acme Hardesty Co., Inc.

53
sales@acme-hardesty.com
www.acme-hardesty.com
Arista Industries, Inc.

57
info@aristaindustries.com
www.aristaindustries.com
Beauty Accelerate
41
beautyaccelerate@allured.com
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(p. DM16)
Bio-Botanica, Inc.
C2
info@bio-botanica.com
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(p. 29)
Biocogent LLC
63
info@biocogent.com
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Campo Research Pte Ltd.

22
sales@campo-research.com
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(p. 23, 46–47)
Gattefosse USA Ikeda Corp.
C3 55
www.gattefosse.com info@ikeda-america.com
Centerchem, Inc. www.ikeda-corp.co.jp
C4
cosmetics@centerchem.com
Grant Industries
www.centerchem.com 1
info@grantinc.com Lucas Meyer Cosmetics
11
www.grantinc.com info@lucasmeyercosmetics.com
Colonial Chemical, Inc. www.lucasmeyercosmetics.com
3
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Greaf Biotech Ltd
5
export@greaf.com.cn Siltech
59
Contipro www.greaf.com www.siltech.com
15
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Ichimaru Pharcos Co. Ltd. Welch Holme & Clark

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Evonik gifu@ichimaru.co.jp Co., Inc.
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