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Dual business
Exploring the level of and consumer
sustainability awareness among perspective
Abstract
Purpose – Adding to competitive dynamics and sustainability literature, this paper aims to examine the
implementation of environmental protection and sustainability initiatives within the European fast-fashion
clothing industry from the perspectives of Generation X and Y consumers. The study primarily investigates
whether consumers’ level of environmental consciousness impacts their purchase decisions and consumption
behaviour and the consequent strategic competitiveness effects on businesses.
Design/methodology/approach – The methodological approach relied on multiple data collection
methods. In the first stage of the study, the researchers analysed the content of the official websites of two of
Europe’s leading fashion firms. In the second stage, a quantitative research approach was aimed at revealing
the perceptions, attitudes and purchase behaviour of Generation X and Y consumers towards the two fashion
houses and their brands.
Findings – Although European fashion manufacturers invest in sustainability and engage in
environmental protection, their marketing efforts need to be more effectively managed and targeted towards
their target consumer markets. The level of engagement and sensitivity of each generational group towards
sustainability issues varies. Each group’s environmental consciousness, motivation and response is shaped
by distinct characteristics, which, in turn, create implications for the effectiveness of sustainability efforts
towards differentiation and competitiveness. Overall, consumers engage in environmental initiatives but
ignore the corporate initiatives pursued by the two fashion firms and did not view them as sustainable
brands.
Originality/value – The study explores the effectiveness of sustainability and environmental protection
orientation as business competitive strategies in the light of environmental turbulence and social changes
impacting the fast-fashion clothing industry and its relationships with its consumer markets.
Introduction
We live in a rapidly changing global society, characterized by unpredictability and
turbulence. Unprecedented changes, such as the COVID-19 pandemic, have forced
businesses, societies and governments to change, among other things, business practices, Competitiveness Review: An
International Business Journal
social structures and government policies. These changes highlight the need to gain © Emerald Publishing Limited
1059-5422
competitive differentiation and a strong customer orientation (Vrontis and Christofi, 2019), DOI 10.1108/CR-04-2021-0061
CR focus on intangible assets, such as responsibility and commitment (Saeidi et al., 2015) and
ensure that business strategies are focused on shared values (Porter and Kramer, 2006), such
as ethics and sustainability. Competitive strategies that might have traditionally worked in
the past, such as cost leadership and price differentiation, may no longer be effective and
thus, businesses may require change, adaptability, creativity and innovation at an
individual and aggregate level (Festa et al., 2017) to compete successfully locally and
internationally (Rossi et al., 2014).
Undeniably, the world has changed significantly in recent times with the development of
information technology, increased mobility and access to information (Fonseca and Lima,
2015), which, in turn, have contributed to heightened competitiveness (Kowal and Paliwoda-
Pękosz, 2017). In today’s world, technology is evolving rapidly and competition is much
more significant because it is not confined within national boundaries but instead it takes
global dimensions. On the other hand, consumers’ needs and expectations are continually
increasing and changing, as they become more informed, sophisticated and variety
orientated. Businesses should respond and adapt to social and market changes, emphasizing
innovative outputs that would ultimately provide them with a competitive advantage that is
sustainable and helps them increase their market share (Ince et al., 2016; Lagumdžija et al.,
2019).
The pressure of globalization has raised social concerns related to the protection of the
environment and forced companies to use sustainability as a strategy to address their legal
and social obligations in their quest for competitiveness. Over the past few years, a
heightened concern has emerged regarding the physical environment and problems, such as
environmental pollution have raised concerns regarding the planet and its ability to sustain
humanity in the years to come (Evans et al., 2020).
Environmental, social and economic developments, such as population growth, resource
deficiencies and a growing imbalance in income distribution are among the biggest
challenges facing today’s society. According to the United Nations Environment Assembly
(Unenvironment.org, 2019), the pollution of the earth, known as environmental degradation,
is an issue that should concern societies, individual consumers, governments and
businesses. To reduce pollution and manage environmental damage, it is important to
encourage individuals and organised groups to take initiatives towards environmental
protection (Bai and Bai, 2020). Business practices related to environmental protection, such
as promoting energy efficiency and sustainable growth, improving air, water and soil
quality and preventing environmental pollution are pursued widely by corporations around
the world (Investopedia, 2020). In particular, the European Union (2016) proposed a set of
objectives to be achieved by 2050 aimed at protecting and restoring the physical
environment through the support of relevant legislation and policies (European Union,
2016). The broad goal of the European Union (EU) and national governments is to transform
Europe into a resource-efficient, green and competitive low-carbon economy by developing
and implementing policies focusing on water resources, clean air, soil quality, waste and
recycling. When businesses invest in practices related to environmental protection, they
essentially contribute towards improving the ecological environment, stimulating domestic
demand and increasing employment opportunities, which is an integral part for sustainable
development (Zhang et al., 2020). Environmental sustainability is a fundamental part of
developing a sustainable company (Porter and Kramer, 2006).
This study investigates the practices related to sustainability and environmental
protection within the fashion industry by focusing on the two leading European fast-fashion
brands, Zara and H&M. It further examines whether consumers are aware and
knowledgeable about these practices to the level which such knowledge plays a role in
purchase decisions. Sustainability within the fashion industry has been studied by several Dual business
researchers (Shen et al., 2013; De Pelsmacker et al., 2005b). The evidence from the literature and consumer
reviewed suggests that there is ambiguity in defining the concept of sustainable fashion
with several competing versions of sustainable fashion standards but undoubtedly
perspective
consumer interest in sustainable purchase decisions has increased (Shen et al., 2013).
Sustainable purchase behaviours are defined as consumers choosing recyclable products,
being socially responsible and engaging in actions to protect the environment (Fraj and
Martines, 2006).
The remainder of the paper is structured as follows: the next section provides a
theoretical background to the study, followed by the study’s focus and rational and the
methodological approach adopted to collect the empirical evidence. Then, the findings are
discussed and formed the foundation for the theoretical and managerial implications
emerging from the study. The paper concludes with the study’s limitations and suggestions
for future research.
Theoretical background
Sustainable development
Sustainable development has received increased attention among academics, policymakers
and businesses. It comes from an increased awareness of the interrelationship between the
increased environmental problems and concerns about the quality of life for today and
future generations (Smedt, 2006). The World Commission’s definition of Sustainable
Development (World Commission on Environment and Development, 2009, p. 16) states,
“Humanity has the ability to make development sustainable to ensure that it meets the
needs of present without compromising the ability of future generations to meet their own
needs”. To achieve this goal, corporations need to invest in innovation. The view that
innovation is a key driving force for sustainable development is widely accepted among
researchers, industry professionals and policymakers (Silvestre and T îrca, 2019). Innovation
is a process of creating novelty and, more importantly, spreading it can be considered an
integral part of the transformation towards sustainable development (Praetorius et al., 2009).
The 2030 Sustainable Development Agenda emphasizes sustainable development and
the focus of its goals is equally on “innovation in development” and “innovation for
development”. Innovation involves new or improved technological products and processes,
new forms of social implementation and organization (UNCTAD, 2017). In the 2030 Agenda,
science, technology and innovation have been recognized as the main driving forces behind
productivity gains and long-term key leverage for economic growth and prosperity and they
are vital for environmental sustainability (Giovannini et al., 2015).
The modern sustainability or environmental, movement can be traced back to Rachel
Carson (1962). But the concept came to the fore with the Brundtland Report, published in the
1980s (Garren and Brinkmann, 2018). The Brundtland Commission (1984–1987), also known
as the World Commission on Environment and Development, issued a set of guidelines
outlined in the 1987 Brundtland report aimed at guiding the world’s nations towards
sustainable development.
Sustainable development focuses on: “meeting and satisfying the needs of the present
generations without compromising the ability of future generations to meet their own
needs” (Brundtland Commission, 1987). According to Munier (2005), sustainable
development is founded on the following three core principles:
(1) The development of economic growth, social progress and environmental
protection,
CR (2) The necessity to engage in action in the present to meet the needs of present
generations and
(3) The necessity to adopt a long-term orientation to safeguard the planet and the well-
being of future generations. Waas et al. (2011) suggested that sustainable
development can be more effectively understood in the context of the economy, the
environment and society, while Kaswan et al. (2015) supported that, at the heart of
the concept, is striving to achieve a balance between satisfying the needs of present
consumers without compromising the needs of future generations.
Riley (2017) argued that both individuals and organizations must accept their
responsibilities for the damage they have caused to the physical environment and thus, they
must help restore it. There are three drivers that motivate companies to respond to
environmental issues, namely, legitimation, responsibility towards the environment and
competitiveness (Bansal and Roth, 2000). Battaglia et al., 2020) argue that sustainable
development, depends not only on governments and corporations engaging in practices that
are conducive to it but also most importantly, individuals engaging in behaviour that
promotes and protects the long-term interests of the society and environment (Fraj and
Martines, 2006). Bai and Bai (2020) also highlight the importance of individuals developing
responsible behaviour towards the environment.
The increased interest in sustainability led to the growth of academic and empirical studies
in the consumer behaviour literature, especially after the early 1980’s when the concept was
embraced by policymakers in the early 1980’s. Hilton (2003), described the concept as the
third phase or “wave” in consumerism. Sustainability impacts buying decisions and
behaviour and has become one of the criteria consumers often use when choosing among
alternative brands. Most prior academic work on sustainability is conceptual in nature
(Clark, 2008; Beard, 2008). Empirical studies focusing on sustainability as a central theme in
consumer’s fashion choices has increased (Shen et al., 2013; Austgulen, 2016). Gupta et al.
(2019) postulate the view that sustainability requires the collective effort of different
stakeholders at the macro level while others argue the importance of consumers’ active
involvement in attaining sustainable consumption (Giesler and Veresiu, 2014).
The body of empirical work on sustainable fashion and consumer behaviour has
increased over the years. Several studies have focused on consumer attitudes and
consumers’ final decision-making concerning sustainable brands. For example, Pears (2006)
examined wasteful fashion consumption to find ways to increase awareness and encourage
consumers towards sustainable consumption practices. Beard (2008) explored the factors
that contribute to the popularity of ethical fashion and the lifestyle, as well as societal
indicators impacting consumer behaviour in purchasing eco-fashion brands. There is also a
growing body of literature on the “green” dimension of sustainable fashion.
For example, a study carried out in Hungary by Benedek and György (2013) among
environment-conscious consumers revealed that older female consumers were significantly
more environmentally conscious than other consumer groups with different demographic
features. Alsmadi (2008), explored the attitudes of Jordanian consumers regarding their
current environmental consciousness and their willingness to adopt environmentally
friendly consumption behaviour. The study showed that, although consumers were
generally concerned about the environment and had high environmental consciousness,
their pro-environmental attitudes were not strong enough to turn good intentions into actual
purchase behaviour.
Evidence also shows that demographic factors, such as age, impact consumers’ attitudes
and behaviour of sustainable fashion. A study by Morrison and Beer (2017) sought to
investigate which generation group is the most pro-environmental in its purchase
behaviour, as this has important implications for the marketing of pro-environmental
products. Their study revealed on the relationship of environmental awareness and age
showed that as awareness increases with age, reaches a peak in early to late middle age and
then declines with older groups of consumers. Another study showed that middle-aged
consumers are more likely to have knowledge of the impact of their purchases on the
environment and are most likely to value the importance of the products that they buy and
the environmental impact of their purchases. Middle aged consumers are also more likely to
favour eco-labelling. Jain and Kaur (2006) suggested that, although a handful of studies Dual business
identify a non-significant relationship between pro-environmental consciousness and age, and consumer
most studies indicate younger consumers. Some studies separate the dependent variable
into environmental knowledge, attitudes and behaviour (Diamantopoulos et al., 2003).
perspective
Diamantopoulos et al. (2003) uncovered only two out of 33 studies with significant
relationships between age and environmental knowledge. However, their own empirical
work showed that younger consumers were slightly more likely to have greater
environmental knowledge than older consumers. Rizkalla and Erhan’s (2020) study among
Millennial consumers that showed among others the need to create awareness and concern
for environmental problems and emphasize the consumers’ importance and participation in
addressing environmental problems.
Shen et al. (2013) argue that the final consumers are often excluded from the debate that
focuses on developing business practices that promote sustainability, even though they play
a critical role in its successful implementation. How can businesses encourage consumers to
actively engage in the sustainability movement and adopt attitudes and behaviour
conducive to it? Several studies revealed that even though consumers may generally have
positive attitudes towards sustainable brands, they often do not buy them (Nicholls and Lee,
2006; McDonald et al., 2009; McDonald and Oates, 2015). This tendency is known as “the
attitude-behaviour gap” (Arbuthnott, 2009; Yates, 2008).
This gap between consumer attitudes and their actual behaviour deserves further
investigation and it is in fact one of the key motivations for this study. Previous studies
pointed to different factors as the ones contributing to this discrepancy. For example,
Joergens (2006) stipulates that one possible factor may be the plethora of garments at low
prices in the market which often leave consumers with little choice and minimum resistance
of not buying them. Bray et al. (2011) discovered that demographic variables, such as
gender, age, moral maturity, price sensitivity and personal experience are contributing to
this gap. Often consumer’s lifestyle (Connolly and Prothero, 2003) and other factors (D’Souza
et al., 2006), such as a person’s values affect their purchase choices.
We adopted the view that age influences people’s attitudes and behaviour, thus impacting
purchase behaviour and consumption patterns. An individual’s age is one of the most
common predictors of differences in attitudes and behaviour regarding a multitude of issues
ranging from social policy to consumption patterns. Age indicates two important
characteristics concerning the individual, namely, their stage in the life cycle and their
membership in a group of individuals born at the same time. Everyone that belongs to a
specific generational group develops unique characteristics regarding psychographics and
demographics compared to generations prior to them (Shams et al., 2020). According to
Shams et al. (2020), a group’s members tend to have similar behaviours but are different
from the behaviours of consumers of other generations.
Generations are often used to group age cohorts and each generation lasts approximately
15–20 years. The Pew Research Center uses generational analysis to track the same groups
of people on different issues, behaviours and characteristics. The present study focuses on
exploring the attitudes and behaviours of Generation X and Y (Millennials) consumers
towards sustainable fashion. The Millennial generation consists of consumers who were
born after 1980, whereas Generation X consumers were born between 1965–1980 (Pew
Research Center analysis of Census Bureau, 2021). Values guide human behaviour, which, in
turn, can take various forms, such as green product consumption, adoption of a sustainable
lifestyle and environmental advocacy.
The heightened consumer awareness and concern towards issues, such as climate
change, animal welfare and fair trade have undoubtedly put pressure on the businesses for
greater accountability, responsibility and responsiveness towards the environment (Troudi
and Bouyoucef, 2020). Based on the existent literature the present study sought out to build
on previous empirical evidence regarding ethical and socially responsible business practices
(Papasolomou-Doukakis et al., 2005).
Environmentally conscious shoppers no longer must look far to identify sustainable
options that will satisfy their consumption needs and reflect their values, as fashion brands
increasingly adopt practices to foster change and innovation to achieve greater
environmental and social integrity.
Research methodology
The present research study follows the principles of the post-positivism paradigm. Post-
positivism is “a revised form of positivism that addresses several of the more widely known
criticisms of quantitative orientation and yet maintains an emphasis on quantitative
methods” (Wang et al., 2007, cited by Kankam, 2019, p. 87). The research study could be
described as “mixed research with an emphasis on quantitative methodology” (Johnson and
Christensen, 2019, p. 32), thus using methodological triangulation for exploring the research
questions. Based on that, post-positivism seems to be the most appropriate research
paradigm for this research. One of the main attributes that distinguishes this paradigm from
others is that it “suggests that knowledge is not neutral and that all knowledge is socially
constructed” (Henderson, 2011, cited by Kankam, 2019, p. 87). In other words, post-
positivism is founded on the principle that determining the truth by using one perfect
approach, is not applicable (Davies and Fisher, 2018). Therefore, for a deeper understanding
of the world, this research paradigm stipulates the use of a combination of approaches Dual business
(Johnson and Christensen, 2019). and consumer
As previously stated, the overarching research aim of the present study was to as
follows:
perspective
Explore the implementation of environmental protection and sustainability
initiatives within the European fast-fashion industry from the perspectives of
Generation X and Y consumers.
Determine whether the consumers’ level of awareness impacts their purchase
decisions and consumption behaviour and the consequent strategic competitiveness
effects on businesses.
Based on the study’s research aim and by drawing evidence from the relevant literature,
seven hypotheses were developed and then tested based on empirical evidence. For example,
H1 (H1), focuses on shedding light onto existing sustainable fashion practices pursued by
Zara and H&M, as several studies (Ravi and Ray, 2014; Cummings et al., 2020), revealed a
growing emphasis by businesses.
The study used two research instruments to collect data over a two-month period
(February and March 2021). The first one was content analysis, which retrieved data from
the official websites of the two fast-fashion clothing manufacturers, Zara and H&M aimed at
examining the strategies developed by the two corporations in relation to environmental
protection and sustainability. Content analysis is based on the belief that texts contain data
that, when analysed, could lead to valuable insights regarding topics (Kondracki et al., 2002,
cited by Kleinheksel et al., 2020). Therefore, content analysis was aimed at enabling the
researchers to reveal information regarding the environmental protection and sustainable
development strategies of the two firms, such as textile recycling, reduction of waste and
resources management.
The second research instrument was a questionnaire, which was developed to examine
the level of awareness, perceptions, attitudes and behaviour of Cypriot consumers towards
corporate initiatives and strategies linked to sustainable development. The questionnaire
developed includes 40 close-ended and open-ended questions. The two age groups were
selected, as age influences people’s attitudes and behaviour and impacts purchase behaviour
and consumption patterns. The study aims at determining which generation group is most
environmentally conscious. The sample included a total of 50 consumers living in Cyprus,
25 from each age group, with an average consumer income at e2,025 (Statistical Service of
the Republic of Cyprus, 2020). Quota non-probability sampling technique was used based
primarily on time and cost limitations. The questionnaire was disseminated through social
media platforms, LinkedIn and Instagram and the data analysis was carried out by using
statistics software (or PSPP).
Table 1 presents the research questions, objectives and hypothesis of the study.
H1. Sought to explore whether Zara and H&M engage in sustainable fashion.
Is the textile industry actively (1) Examine whether European H1: European manufacturers of
engaging in sustainability and manufacturers of textile and textile and clothing are
environmental protection and if this is clothing are actively involved implementing practices
the case then, what are the core in environmental protection regarding environmental
strategies that manufacturers have and sustainable development protection and sustainable
developed and implemented towards by carrying out a detailed development
this corporate goal? review of the current literature
in the area
(2) Carry out a content analysis H2: Generation X and
of the official websites of two of Millennial consumers are
the biggest European textile unaware that the official
and clothing manufacturers, websites of the Zara and H&M
Zara and H&M, to identify brands use the company’s
whether there is evidence of website to create awareness
organizational engagement in regarding initiatives towards
environmental protection and environmental protection and
sustainable development sustainable development
Are these strategies towards (3) Explore the perception and H3a: Although Generation X
sustainability and environmental attitudes of Generation X and consumers recognize that the
protection impacting consumer Millennials consumers towards Zara and H&M brands engage
behaviour? If yes, in what ways? the Zara and H&M brands in in environmental protection
terms of the brand’s and sustainable development
engagement in environmental which they value, they will buy
protection and sustainable other brands instead because
development they find them more
fashionable
H3b: Although Millennial
consumers recognize that the
Zara and H&M brands engage
in environmental protection
and sustainable development
which they value, they will buy
other brands instead because
they find them more
fashionable
(4) Establish whether the H4: Consumers that are aware
consumer’s level of knowledge of the brand’s involvement in
of the brand’s involvement in environmental protection and
environmental protection and sustainable development
sustainable development initiatives are more brand loyal
initiatives affects their and they tend to choose those
purchase behaviour and brand brands
loyalty
Are the manufacturers seeking to (5) Establish whether H5: Generation X and
encourage consumers to engage and Generation X and Millennial Millennial consumers neither
respond to this effort and if they are, consumers respond and engage respond nor engage in
what activities do they use to achieve in corporate initiatives corporate initiatives launched
this? launched by the Zara and H&M by the Zara and H&M brands
Table 1. brands towards sustainable towards sustainable
Research questions, development and development and
objectives and environmental protection environmental protection
hypothesis of the (continued)
study
Dual business
Research questions Objectives Hypothesis
and consumer
Are consumers responding positively (6) Determine which generation H6: Between Generation X and perspective
or negatively to the manufacturers’ group of consumers tends to be Millennial consumers,
efforts towards sustainability and more actively engaged with Millennials tend to be more
environmental responsibility? actions addressing climate actively engaged with actions
change, sustainable addressing climate change,
development and sustainable development and
environmental protection environmental protection
(7) Determine whether H7: Sustainably minded
sustainably minded consumers consumers do attempt to
strive to manifest their ethical denote their ethical values with
values with purchasing purchasing sustainable/eco-
sustainable/eco-friendly brands friendly brands Table 1.
The company has built “eco-stores”, which “use at least 20% less electricity and 40% less
water than conventional stores” (Inditex.com, 2020a). Eco-stores demonstrate the company’s
effort to contribute towards environmental protection and its interest in sustainable
development by trying to reduce water and energy consumption. The development of Eco-
stores combines various “technologically innovative systems”, such as automatic motion
sensors, LED lighting, dim lighting programmes, climate analysis and many more (Inditex.
com, 2020a) as follows:
“All Zara stores in the world are eco-efficient since 2019”.
“Our flagship eco-stores are beacons of best practice throughout our business and one of the
most visible indicators to our customers of our commitment to environmental
sustainability” (Inditex.com, 2020a).
The company intends to become sustainable and efficient by 2023, by ensuring that their
practices will not have negative consequences on the environment.
“We want to close the loop and move towards a circular economy – developing a complete and
efficient life cycle for our products, in which nothing goes to waste.”
“By 2023, one of our aims is no longer send anything to landfills from our own headquarters,
logistics centres, stores and factories” (Inditex.com, 2020b).
CR Zara aims at protecting the environment by implementing change throughout their
operations and emphasizes its commitment to reduce plastic by focusing on replacing
single-use plastic throughout their operations.
“We are committed to reducing our consumption of plastic, including the plastic we provide our
customers as well as the plastic we use during transportation to protect our garments and ensure
quality”.
“We are committed to eliminating all single-use plastics that reach our customers by 2023,
redesigning all our packaging so they are made from recyclable and recycled plastics” (Zara.
com, 2020).
The company is also committed towards using recycling practices throughout the supply
chain process:
“As part of our commitment to promote recycling, we want all our polyester garments to be
recycled by 2025 and all the materials we use to transport our garments throughout our supply
chain to be recycled and contain recycled materials”.
There is also an emphasis on using recycled materials in packaging:
“The bags we use in our stores and the boxes we use for our online orders are made of recycled
paper and cardboard”.
“The use of recycled raw materials such as recycled polyester, wool or cotton decreases the
consumption of virgin raw materials, reducing the consumption of water, energy and
natural resources” (Zara.com, 2020).
The “Clothes Collection Programme” is aimed at encouraging consumers to recycle
clothes:
“Through our Clothes Collection Programme, we collect the clothes that our customers no
longer use and give them a second lease of life through reuse or recycling” (Zara.com, 2020).
Zara emphasizes sustainability and environmental protection turning these into core
corporate values which shape the company’s vision and mission. The company is
committed to promoting initiatives, such as recycling, efficiency and reduced consumption
of water, plastic and other materials and it uses online communication to build the identity
of the corporate brand.
H2. Sought out to discover whether Generation X and Millennial consumers are
unaware of Zara and H&M initiatives towards sustainability.
Most respondents from both age groups stated that they are unaware of initiatives and
practices pursued by the two brands towards sustainable fashion. Consumers usually
access a website to view products, find information about products and search store
locations. Most participants claimed that they never spent time on gaining knowledge about
H&M’s or Zara’s sustainability practices There is low consumer awareness and knowledge
among regarding current sustainable fashion practices. The consumers’ primary goal when
using the brand’s website is to access product information, such as selling prices and
availability or make an online purchase rather than a desire to learn about the brand’s
values and strategies. Thus, Zara and H&M need to strengthen their promotion efforts by
adopting an integrated marketing communications strategy that builds on both offline (for
example, in-store promotions) and online tools (for example, internet and social media) to
effectively create consumer awareness and subsequently, positively influence buying
behaviour. Not being aware of sustainable fashion brands consumers fail to position them as
such and more importantly select them over competitors’ brands. Thus, brands need to
develop effective educational materials and disseminate these through multiple media
channels to reach different segments. Attention to communication strategies can strengthen
the brand’s efforts to achieve differentiation and gain a competitive advantage as follows:
H3. explored whether Generation X and Y consumers are aware of Zara and H&M Dual business
engaging in environmental protection and sustainable development and perceive and consumer
the two brands to be eco-brands.
perspective
Most Millennials stated that they do not buy brands that are not environmentally friendly
even if they find them fashionable while Generation X consumers were divided in their
opinions, slightly leaning towards fashion. When consumers were asked whether they
would prefer to purchase a sustainable and eco-friendly brand instead of one that is not
sustainable, most consumers from both age groups stated that they would choose the eco-
friendly brand. Both age groups are aware that the two brands engage in activities that
promote environmental protection and sustainable development.
Most Millennials value brands that are eco-friendly. These are the brands that they
prefer to buy to satisfy their needs and express their personal values. Both Millennials and
Generation X consumers tend to evaluate the two brands based on fashion, prices and
quality, but not sustainability. Millennials endorse green brands and choose sustainability
over fashion as follows:
H4. aimed at investigating whether consumers that are aware of the brand’s
involvement in sustainability are more brand loyal and they tend to choose those
brands.
Consumers, from both age groups, do not only buy eco brands even though they prefer to do
so. Awareness of the brand’s association to sustainability practices encourage consumers to
select it over a competitor’s brand. The consumers also claimed that it is likely that they will
switch to brands that are sustainable. Knowing that a brand is “eco-friendly” is an
important factor, used in the evaluation process and a key criterion for purchase decisions in
general, consumers stated that they are environmentally conscious and their values
influence their purchase behaviour and brand loyalty. Thus, brands need to align their
business values and practices with the consumers’ environmental values and consciousness
as follows:
H5. sought out to investigate whether Generation X and Y consumers fail to engage in
sustainability initiatives pursued by Zara and H&M.
Although most respondents from both age groups were unaware of Zara’s and H&M’s
practices for sustainable fashion, some identified the following activities [Figures 1(a) and 1(b)].
Both groups of consumers are aware of the need for sustainability in the fashion industry
and are responding positively to brands that are sustainable. Their personal values,
attitudes and opinions reflect heightened consciousness of how these values need to be
Figure 1.
Zara’s sustainable
fashion practices
CR reflected in their consumption choices. However, they lack knowledge regarding Zara’s and
H&M’s efforts for sustainable fashion. They failed to recognize that these brands promote
sustainable fashion consumption. Consequently, they fail to actively engage in the
campaigns and programmes that the two brands implement. This finding suggests that the
two brands need to launch marketing communication initiatives that aim at creating
awareness and building knowledge regarding their efforts and most importantly encourage
consumer engagement to strengthen the effort for positive environmental and social impact
as follows:
Figure 2.
H&M sustainable
fashion practices
practice green consumerism (Tanner and Wölfing Kast, 2003; Sønderskov and Daugbjerg, Dual business
2011). Environmentally conscious consumers access and use available sustainable and consumer
information by using new communication tools and technologies such as the internet and
social media networks. Thrassou and Vrontis (2009) postulate a new consumer relationship
perspective
model based on emphasizing the role of marketing communications. Enhanced knowledge
and understanding makes them more determined to stop environmental disaster (Follows
and Jobber, 2000) and motivates them to endorse brands that are responsible (Christofi et al.,
2020). Following the heightened environmental concern among consumers and
policymakers, brands seek to achieve greater transparency, ethical and socially responsible
behaviour (Papasolomou et al., 2018; Idowu and Papasolomou, 2007).
The study showed that the two fast-fashion brands have embarked on an effort to make
“more” sustainable fashion. They have invested in practices that support sustainable
fashion, such as reusing garments, reducing the use of scarce resources, reusing materials
and investing in innovation to make and use sustainable resources. But how successful fast-
fashion brands can be in pursuing slow-fashion sustainability initiatives? It is an oxymoron
really. Fast-fashion invests in mass-production, low cost and wide distribution. Slow fashion
or sustainable fashion invests in making high quality products that are more durable and
more expensive. Thus, fast-fashion brands may need to change their existing business
model and use sustainability as the central pillar for gaining a competitive advantage. The
effectiveness of using sustainability as a strategy to strengthen differentiation and
competitiveness depends on their positioning and marketing communication efforts through
which they will build sustainable knowledge among their customers and other stakeholders.
Brands have the power to shape consumer perception and educate consumers about
environmental responsibilities (James and Montgomery, 2017). They can persuade
consumers to adopt general cognitive and effective concerns about sustainable practices
(Göçer and Oflaç, 2017). To achieve these goals though fashion brands need to create
consumer awareness and knowledge regarding their sustainability efforts. Without relevant
knowledge the average consumer cannot understand whether brands make a genuine effort
to practice sustainability (Park and Kim, 2016). Alba and Hutchinson (1987) postulate that
consumer knowledge regarding the environment is essentially a construct that has an
impact on how consumers collect and organize information. Shen et al. (2012) found out
that consumers’ knowledge of sustainability-related issues have a positive impact on the
consumers’ support of claims made by environmentally responsible brands. Essentially,
consumers use existing knowledge and understanding to assess the information given to
them (Göçer and Oflaç, 2017).
Schniederjans and Khalajhedayati (2021) suggest that there is a need for empirical
evidence in sustainability literature, regarding the impact of stakeholder awareness and
motivation of a firm’s sustainability efforts as a source of building a competitive advantage.
In contributing to this gap, the present study revealed that both Generation X and Y
consumers are unaware of n current sustainable fashion practices implemented by Zara and
H&M. Even though these consumers are sustainability conscious, have environmental
concerns and share a willingness to act environmentally conscious behaviour and purchase
intentions, fashion brands fail to take advantage of this opportunity to communicate their
sustainable fashion initiatives and build a competitive advantage (H3).
Both generation groups feel strongly about sustainability values and want their
purchase decisions to reflect these values, which aligns with the evidence from the existent
literature (Kong et al., 2021). The evidence supports that Millennials endorse green brands
and put sustainability over fashion when evaluating alternative brands (H3). This finding
agrees with existing knowledge that shows that younger population of consumers are more
CR likely to exhibit green behaviour and purchase intention for green brands (Chekima et al.,
2016; Chun et al., 2021). Sustainability can be a source for competitiveness and
differentiation, as it can stipulate strong positive emotions and lead to customer loyalty.
Generation X and Y consumers share strong feelings towards sustainable brands. In fact,
having knowledge about a brand’s sustainability efforts contributes to creating customer
loyalty towards the brand (H4). Consumers from both groups try to recycle and reuse
products, as well as reduce waste (H6). They also attempt to get others, their reference
groups to do the same (H7) that is, to adopt values and behaviours that support
sustainability.
Some studies focused on the identification of antecedent variables to recycling and other
sustainability practices, for example, consumer’s personality (Lu et al., 2015; Thøgersen
et al., 2015); consumer’s personal values (Manchiraju and Sadachar, 2014); consumer’s
motives (Thøgersen et al., 2015), consumer’s gender (Lee, 2009) and age (Teng and Wang,
2015), but current knowledge and understanding can be strengthened in the context of
cultural characteristics and social norms. More recently, Sheng-Hsiung et al. (2020) sought
out to empirically examine the mediator role played by consumers’ ethical belief between
social impacts and adopt intention towards recycling in an ethical consumption context.
Practical implications
The study contributes to current literature on ethical consumption and sustainability that
has grown exponentially and has become a major concern among consumers (Young et al.,
2010). Consumers’ sustainable knowledge enhances environmental concerns, brand trust,
willingness to act environmentally conscious behaviour and purchase intentions (Chun et al.,
2021). It sheds light on Generation X and Y consumers living in Cyprus and their attitudes
and behaviour towards sustainable fashion and in particular, the Zara and H&M brands.
The findings showed that consumers from the two generation groups are environmentally
conscious and their ethical values drive their purchase intentions and behaviour. Millennials
claimed to put sustainability before fashion when making their purchases. However,
consumers were unaware and lacked knowledge regarding the sustainability initiatives
launched by the two brands towards making more sustainable fashion. Both Zara and
H&M, use corporate communications such as their official websites to demonstrate their
commitment towards environmental protection and sustainable development. Although
they have launched initiatives and practices internationally and locally, these programmes
are largely unknown to local consumers, as when they use the companies’ websites, they do
it mostly for retrieving information about products and making online purchases.
Consequently, consumers’ lack of awareness and knowledge results in their lack of
participation in these initiatives.
At the same time, consumers fail to perceive the two brands as sustainable, and thus the
opportunity for achieving differentiation through sustainability is lost. Thus, the two
fashion brands need to reinforce their communication efforts to create awareness of their
corporate strategies and commitment to sustainability as a mechanism to enhancing their
competitiveness.
To do that they need to carefully coordinate their corporate and marketing
communication efforts to ensure that their corporate values are shared with their key
stakeholder groups such as their consumers.
Fashion brands need to encourage sustainable consumption among their customers and
to achieve it, they need to align organizational goals with consumers’ values and behaviours.
They need to launch marketing communication campaigns that talk to the customers’ heart
and motivate consumers towards sustainable consumption. They need to also use both
online and offline communication tools to achieve social influence and reach various Dual business
customer segments with varying media preferences. It is critical for fashion brands to and consumer
launch marketing communication campaigns that are educational and motivational
perspective
highlight the mutual benefits that all parties gain from effectively practicing sustainability.
Building competitiveness means communicating company rp values, commitments and
practices to customers. It is all about such as promoting more intensively the garments
made of recycled materials in their stores and in their websites and even create new
“environmentally friendly” product lines. Having a strong positioning strategy can create a
unique competitive brand position in the customers’ minds which consequently can
motivate consumers to select the brand over a competitor’s brand that is position based on
different attributes.
Consumers share a strong desire to fit in and will conform to the behaviours of those
around them. Harnessing the power of social influence is an effective approach to eliciting
environmental behaviour in consumption. To leverage this motivation, fashion brands need
to invest in integrating marketing communications to ensure that all touch points that
customers use to engage with the brand align with and most importantly appeal to
customers’ self-interest. Fashion brands can team up with, opinion leaders, such as
influencers and bloggers, to appeal to different age groups to inspire them to endorse
sustainable fashion. Sustainability appears to be a top priority in the strategic plans of
fashion brands and is undoubtedly a strategy aimed at building the corporate brand and
contributing to social change. But unless these brands get their corporate and marketing
communications strategies to promote the same positioning strategy, their efforts will fail.
Consumers need to be engaged with brands that inspire them and reflect their personal
values and this clearly opens up several opportunities for brands for market success.
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Corresponding author
Ioanna Papasolomou can be contacted at: papasolomou.i@unic.ac.cy
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