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Consumer
The consumption side of eco-fashion
sustainable fashion supply chain consumption
Understanding fashion consumer eco-fashion
consumption decision 193
Ting-yan Chan and Christina W.Y. Wong
Business Division, Institute of Textiles and Clothing,
The Hong Kong Polytechnic University, Hong Kong,
People’s Republic of China
Abstract
Purpose – The purpose of this paper is to examine the relationships between product- and
store-related attributes of eco-fashion and fashion consumers’ eco-fashion consumption decisions; and
if such relationships are subject to the price premium level of eco-fashion.
Design/methodology/approach – A survey was conducted with consumers in Hong Kong: in total,
216 consumers participated in the survey. A confirmatory factor analysis was conducted to check the
validity and reliability of the scales. Hypotheses were tested using multiple regression analysis.
Findings – The findings showed that only store-related attributes of eco-fashion positively influence
consumers’ eco-fashion consumption decision, yet, such relationship can be weakened by the price
premium level of eco-fashion.
Research limitations/implications – Fashion consumers’ response to product- and store-related
attributes of eco-fashion is still important in predicting fashion consumers’ eco-fashion consumption
decision. Fashion consumer environmental attitudes can predict fashion consumers’ eco-fashion
consumption decision better than fashion consumers’ attitude towards eco-fashion.
Practical implications – It is not enough for fashion companies to manufacture fashion clothing in
an ethical production system and develop and design fashion clothing with sustainable and recyclable
materials. They must also improve store-related attributes of eco-fashion to better satisfy fashion
consumer needs, and should be cautious in the direct and moderating effect of price premium level of
eco-fashion when determining the price premium level of eco-fashion.
Originality/value – The paper contributes to research by advancing understanding on how
consumers make ethical consumption decisions in purchasing fashion, and provides retailers with
managerial insights into devising marketing plans to promote eco-fashion consumption, which
facilitate fashion companies’ development of a sustainable fashion supply chain. Limitations and
directions for future research are also presented in the paper.
Keywords Hong Kong, Consumer behaviour, Ethics, Fashion, Eco-fashion,
Sustainable consumption, Product-related attributes, Store-related attributes, Price premium,
Eco-fashion consumption decision, Sustainable development, Fashion supply chain
Paper type Research paper
1. Introduction
Due to the adverse environmental impacts of the present clothing consumption behavior,
there is a rising concern on sustainability issues on the consumption side of the fashion
supply chain (FSC) (Fineman, 2001; Jackson, 2004; Birtwistle and Moore, 2007; Carter and Journal of Fashion Marketing and
Management
Vol. 16 No. 2, 2012
The authors would like to thank the Editor-in-Chief, Editors, and the three anonymous referees pp. 193-215
r Emerald Group Publishing Limited
for their helpful comments on the earlier version of the paper, This research was supported by 1361-2026
the Research Grants Council of Hong Kong Special Administration Region (PolyU 5015-PPR-10). DOI 10.1108/13612021211222824
JFMM Rogers, 2008; Niinimäki, 2010). Fashion companies, including manufacturers and
16,2 retailers, are increasingly developing and marketing eco-fashion to promote sustainable
consumption ( Joergens, 2006; Fletcher, 2008; Wong et al., 2011a, 2012a, b). Although
fashion consumers have a positive attitude toward environmental protection, they rarely
apply such attitude into eco-fashion consumption (Solomon and Rabolt, 2004; Niinimäki,
2010). The attitude-behavior gap in fashion consumers’ environmental protection interest
194 and eco-fashion consumption disappoints fashion companies (Weller, 2008), and
motivates green marketing and eco-fashion consumption research to investigate factors
that influence fashion consumers’ eco-fashion consumption decision (ECD) (e.g. Tanner
and Kast, 2003; Jalas, 2004; Solomon and Rabolt, 2004; Sener and Hazer, 2008; Niinimäki,
2010). Among other factors, product-related attributes (PRA) of eco-fashion (e.g. product
design, quality, and price) and store-related attributes (SRA) of eco-fashion (e.g. store
design and environment, store’s ethical practices, and shop convenience) have been
argued as factors that influence ECD (Niinimäki, 2010). Prior studies revealed that fashion
consumers are interested in purchasing eco-fashion but they are not willing to sacrifice
personally, such as paying a higher price ( Joergens, 2006; Carrigan and Attala, 2001).
Following this line of thought, we argue that the relationships between PRA and SRA of
eco-fashion and ECD are subject to the price premium (PP) level of eco-fashion.
Although many studies in green marketing and eco-fashion consumption literature
have investigated the relationships between PRA, SRA, PP, and ECD (e.g. Carrigan and
Attalla, 2001; Beard, 2008; Ochoa, 2011), they are confined to a number of aspects. First,
while customer service is an important SRA that affects fashion consumers’ purchase
decision (Erdem et al., 1999; Batlas and Papastathopoulou, 2003), its impact on ECD
has been neglected in prior studies. This study considers customer service as part of
SRA and examines how customer service in addition to store design and environment,
store’s ethical practices, and shop convenience influence ECD. Second, prior studies
are confined to examine the direct effect of PP on ECD, and little is known about
the moderating role of PP. This study represents an initial study to examine the
moderating effect of PP on the relationship between PRA and SRA, and ECD,
providing insights into the condition under which the relationships of PRA, SRA, ECD
can be generalized. Lastly, the lack of theoretical explanation on the relationships
between PRA, SRA, PP, and ECD, is perhaps the most pressing issue that deserves
more research attention. Based on the consumer decision-making process (CDMP)
theory and the conventional economic theory, this study examines the relationships
among PRA, SRA, PP, and ECD.
This study contributes to academic and fashion companies in twofold. First, many
researchers have indicated that fashion consumers’ ethical consumption decision-making
process is highly complicated and is difficult to be predicted (Nordas, 2004; Sen, 2008;
Niinimäki, 2010). This study contributes by providing better understanding on how
consumers make ethical consumption decision in purchasing fashion. Second, eco-fashion
consumption is a key contributor to sustainability development of FSC by driving demand
of eco-fashion (Niinimäki, 2009, 2010; Faisal, 2010). This study provides managerial
insights into devising marketing plan to promote eco-fashion consumption, which
facilitate fashion companies’ development of a sustainable FSC (Lai and Wong, 2012).
Beard (2008) PRA: It is not enough that the clothes are only produced ethically but they also have to be fashionable and suit the consumer’s esthetic
PD needs
Environmental aspects have to be combined with good design and fashion to produce more desirable eco-fashion
Bratt (1999) PRA: People might not be willing to practice environmentally friendly behavior, which required less sacrifice or could be achieved at
P lower cost
Butler and Francis (2007) PRA: Ultimately, an eco-fashion item is a fashion item, which implies price and style as determinant choice criteria
PD
P
Carrigan and Attalla (2001) PRA: Ethical purchasing will take place only if there are no costs to the consumer in terms of higher price, loss quality, and discomfort
P in shopping
Q Despite consumers caring about the ethical behavior of companies, this care does not translate into consumption choices that
SRA: favor ethical companies and punish unethical enterprises
SDE
SEP
Crane and Clarke (1994) PRA: There would be more consumers willing to practice environmental consumption or to switch brand when the price of the green
P products and the non-green products was equal
Creyer (1997) SRA: The ethicality of a firm’s behavior is an important consideration during the purchase decision
SEP Consumers will reward ethical behavior by a willingness to pay higher prices for that firm’s product. Although they may buy
from an unethical firm, they want to do so at a lower price, which in effect, punishes the unethical act
Dickson and Littrell (1997) PRA: The attributes such as price, quality, and product design might affect behavioral change
PD
Q
P
Joergens (2006) PRA: Consumer does not actually have real opportunity to choose ethical clothing because almost all garments are produced in cheap
PD Asian countries, prices are not comparable in ethical clothing, and the design and appearance of eco-clothing are unfashionable
Q and unattractive or do not suit the consumer’s wardrobe needs or his/her personal style
P
Kim and Damhorst (1998) PRA: The attributes such as price, quality, and product design and function might affect attitudinal and behavioral change
PD
(continued)
consumption
eco-fashion
Consumer
Table I.
Review of topics related
16,2
198
Table I.
JFMM
Scope of PRA
and SRA
References examined Findings
Q
P
Lloyd et al. (1993) PRA: Customers who were used to paying US$10 for a t-shirt might not be willing to pay US$20 for an environmentally clean t-shirt
P
MDF (1998) PRA: Consumers comment that environmental clothing was not fashionable and materials were uncomfortable and scratchy
PD
Q
Niinimäki (2010) PRA: When purchasing clothes, consumers do not think about sustainability. Price and style are more dominant factors when they buy
P fashion able items. In fashion, the desire to renew one’s appearance according to changing fashions and identities is in
PD contradiction with sustainable consumption
Ochoa (2011) PRA: The attributes for buying eco-fashion enhance my quality of life. “Softness and higher quality of cotton” and “To support the
PD protection of the environment” are very important to most fashion consumers
Q The two main barriers for buying eco-fashion are “not stylish” and “expensive”
P Price is a sensitive factor for potential eco-fashion customers regardless of their organic food intake
Roberts (1996) PRA: The attributes such as price, quality, and product design might affect behavioral change
PD Consumers were not actually willing to spend more green products when they found that the products were too expensive
Q
P
Roberts and Bacon (1997) PRA: Ecological consideration was less important than price, quality, and convenience in influencing consumers’ choices of products
Q
P
SRA:
SC
Speer (1997) PRA: Price, design, and quality were the major buying criteria. Only 6 percent of consumers considered environmental impact to be
PD their primary buying criteria
Q
P
Notes: ECD, fashion consumers’ eco-fashion consumption decision; PRA, product-related attributes of eco-fashion; SRA, store-related attributes of eco-
fashion; PD, product design; Q, quality; P, price; SDE, store design and environment; SEP, store’s ethical practices; SC, shop convenience
Source: Business articles and studies in green marketing and eco-fashion consumption literature published between 1993 and 2011
2.2.2 PP level of eco-fashion and fashion consumers’ ECD. Eco-fashion currently Consumer
appears to be at a PP in the market due to the higher cost of organic raw materials eco-fashion
(Brito et al., 2008). PP refers to the pricing that is above the average price (Roberts,
1996). Environmentally responsible consumers are often assumed willing to pay a consumption
premium for eco-products to protect the environment (Ferraro et al., 2005). Table II
summarizes the seminal studies in green marketing and eco-fashion consumption
literature that focussed on PP and their findings about the effect of PP on ECD. Prior 199
studies found that only a few of these consumers are willing to pay a premium for eco-
fashion. Fashion consumers do not wish their purchase of eco-fashion to cause any
personal sacrifices (Crane and Clarke, 1994). According to the conventional economic
theory (Monroe, 1973), PP represents a monetary measure of what is sacrificed in their
purchase of eco-fashion (Dodds et al., 1991). In other words, fashion consumers are not
willing to pay a premium for eco-fashion when they consider a piece of eco-fashion is
too expensive (Roberts, 1996). Generally, fashion consumers have a price range that is
acceptable to pay for a product (Crane and Clarke, 1994; Bratt, 1999). When fashion
consumers consider the price of eco-fashion is higher than their acceptable price range,
they are likely to refrain from making the purchase. It is suggested that a 10 percent PP
would not affect fashion consumers’ willingness to purchase eco-fashion but a 25-30
percent PP is considered unacceptable by consumers (Miller, 1992).
The conventional economic theory (Monroe, 1973) suggests that when the price
level of fashion clothing is high and a fashion consumer is less familiar with the
clothing due to infrequent purchase, consumers are likely to perceive a risk of an
incorrect assessment (Dodds et al., 1991). Under such circumstance, fashion consumers
are likely to use the price as an indicator of quality. When the fashion clothing is priced
at a high level, fashion consumers tend to have a higher perceived quality of fashion
clothing or customer service, thus greater willingness to purchase fashion clothing
(Parasuraman et al., 1985; Dodds et al., 1991). In contrast, fashion consumers will be
suspicious of the quality of fashion clothing and customer service if its price is below
References Findings
Crane and Clarke Few consumers were willing to pay a 15 percent premium for environmentally
(1994) sound products even though they were highly involved in the green issues
Lloyd et al. (1993) Retailers with experience in selling green products also stated that the major
obstacle for the growth potential of green apparel was the added 10-15 percent
to the original price
Miller (1992) An additional 10 percent would not affect consumers’ willingness to pay for
environmentally correct products but an additional 25-30 percent premium was
unacceptable
Mintel (2009) Consumers do not see an environmental aspect as a value added and do not
want to pay a “green” price premium
Nakano (2007) Consumers will not pay over 10 percent more for sustainable clothes
Table II.
Ochoa (2011) The two factors for not buying organic clothing that received the highest
Review of topics related to
importance are “expensive” and “not stylish” with 45 and 48 percent,
the relationship between
respectively
fashion consumers’
Roberts (1996) Consumers were not actually willing to spend more on green products when
eco-fashion consumption
they found that the products were too expensive
decision and
Source: business articles and studies in green marketing and eco-fashion consumption literature price premium level of
published between 1992 and 2011 eco-fashion
JFMM their acceptable price range, thus discouraging them to purchase clothing
16,2 (Parasuraman et al., 1985). The price level of fashion clothing influences the effects
of the perceived quality of fashion clothing and customer service on purchase decision
(Dodds et al., 1991). The conventional economic theory conjectures that the PP level of
fashion clothing can improve or deteriorate the effects of PRA and SRA of eco-fashion
on ECD. We therefore hypothesize that:
200
H3. PP moderates the relationship between PRA and ECD.
H4. PP moderates the relationship between SRA and ECD (Figure 1).
3. Research methodology
3.1 Sample
We examined the relationship among PRA, SRA, PP, and ECD in Hong Kong for the
following reason. Similar to many cities, Hong Kong suffers from high levels of
clothing disposal and rapidly diminishing landfill space (Civic Exchange, 2007). In
comparison with other countries, fashion consumers in Hong Kong are at the stage of
environmental protection awakening (Harris, 2006; Lee, 2009). Fashion consumers in
Hong Kong have recently started to realize the seriousness of environmental pollution
and the subsequent health problems, and have therefore become more open to
environmental protection issues (Yeung, 2005). Conducting research in the context of
Hong Kong allows us to understand eco-fashion consumption and factors that
influence ECD in an international fashion city. The findings are vital for international
fashion companies to develop and market eco-fashion (Beard, 2008), and directing
fashion consumers’ purchase behavior toward sustainable consumption (Young et al.,
2010).
A random sample was selected by intercepting and inviting consumers who
shopped at different fashion clothing retail stores in a shopping mall in Hong Kong to
complete the self-administered questionnaires. A total of 250 fashion consumers were
sampled, and 216 sets of questionnaire were completed and returned. The demographic
characteristics of respondents are presented in Table III. As we collected data in the
shopping mall that is nearby one of the universities in Hong Kong, 66.2 percent of
respondents are undergraduate students in the university, with an average age of
17.9-years old. As a majority of the respondents are full-time undergraduate students
in university and work on a part-time basis, the average monthly income is HK$
3,074.37 per month.
Product-related attributes of
eco-fashion (PRA)
Store-related attributes of
eco-fashion (SRA) Control variables:
Figure 1. age
Research model of fashion gender
consumers’ ECD education level
income level
(%) of samples
Consumer
eco-fashion
Gender (1: male) consumption
Male 25
Female 75
Age
15 or below 0 201
15-24 76.9
25-34 17.1
35-44 3.2
45-54 1.4
55 or above 1.4
Educational level
Primary or below 1.4
Secondary 4.2
Diploma 6.9
Undergraduate 66.2
Postgraduate 21.3
Income level (HKD$ per month)
Below $1,000 27.3
$1,000-$3,999 35.2
$4,000-$6,999 11.1
$7,000-$9,999 7.9 Table III.
$10,000-$12,999 12 The demographic
$13,000-$15,999 4.6 characteristics of
$16,000 or above 1.9 respondents
3.2 Measurement
Based on the literature, PRA is reflected by three indicators, namely product design,
quality, and price, which were adopted from Solomon and Rabolt (2004), Joergens
(2006), and Beard (2008). SRA consists of four elements, including customer service,
store display and environment, store’s ethical practices, and shop convenience, which
were adopted from Creyer (1997), Solomon and Rabolt (2004), Joergens (2006), and
Beard (2008). The respondents were asked to assess the level of importance of these
SRA using a five-point Likert scale, 1 ¼ very unimportant to 5 ¼ very important. The
measurement of ECD was adopted from Roberts (1996) and Roberts and Bacon (1997).
Respondents were asked to indicate the degree to which they are likely to purchase
“clothing that is durable,” “clothing with recycled content,” and “clothing that is safe to
the environment,” using a five-point Likert scale, ranging from 1 ¼ 0-20 to 5 ¼ 81-100
percent. Moreover, we adopted two survey measures from Miller (1992) and Lloyd et al.
(1993) to measure PP. Based on Miller’s (1992) suggestion on the PP that fashion
consumers are accepted to pay for, PP is measured by “1-10,” “11-20,” and “21-30
percent.” The measurement items for three constructs (i.e. PRA, SRA, and ECD) are
summarized in Appendix.
Chan (1999) suggested that environmentally conscious consumers tend to be better
educated, and higher in economic and income status. Some studies reported that
environmentally conscious consumers tend to be female and younger (Roberts and
Bacon, 1997; Lee, 2008, 2009). Since environmentally conscious consumers are found to
be different from the less environmentally conscious consumers in terms of
demographic variable, including age, gender, education level, and income level,
JFMM we control these variables in the analysis to indicate how general fashion consumers
16,2 make sustainable consumption decision.
Age
Gender Figure 2.
Fashion consumers’ eco-fashion
consumption decision (ECD) Regression model 1: the
Education level main effects of
demographic variables on
Income level
ECD
Age
Gender
Education level
Income level
Fashion consumers’ eco-
The importance of product-related fashion consumption
attributes of eco-fashion in fashion decision (ECD)
consumers’ mind (PRA) Figure 3.
Regression model 2: the
The importance of store-related main effects of PRA and
attributes of eco-fashion in fashion SRA on ECD
consumers’ mind (SRA)
16,2 Gender
Education level
Income level
where ECD is the fashion consumers’ eco-fashion consumption decision; a1-a3 the
intercept term; b1-b16 the regression coefficients; A the age; G the gender; EL the
education level; IL the income level; PRA the product-related attributes of eco-fashion;
SRA the store-related attributes of eco-fashion; PP the price premium level of
eco-fashion; PRA PP the interaction term of product-related attributes and price
premium level of eco-fashion; SRA PP the interaction term of store-related attributes
and price premium level of eco-fashion.
As shown in Table VI, regression model 1 showed that the control variable, i.e. age,
gender, education level, and income level account for 1.1 percent of the variance of ECD.
where ECD is the fashion consumers’ eco-fashion consumption decision; A the age;
G the gender; EL the education level; IL the income level; PRA the product-related
attributes of eco-fashion; SRA the store-related attributes of eco-fashion; PP the price
premium level of eco-fashion; PRA PP the interaction term of product-related
attributes of eco-fashion and price premium level of eco-fashion; SRA PP the
interaction term of store-related attributes of eco-fashion and price premium level of
eco-fashion.
4. Discussion
Our findings show that PRA is not related to ECD. Such may be due to respondents’
ECD being less likely to be stimulated by their physical needs for protection and
functionality, emotional needs of expressing their personality, and psychological needs
of identity building. The insignificant relationship between PRA and ECD may also be
explained by the respondents perceiving less importance of PRA than SRA when
making purchase decision on ECD. As shown in the results, SRA positively influences
ECD. In line with our theorization, this suggests that SRA plays an important role in
respondents’ eco-fashion purchase decision making although it only has some positive
effect on ECD.
Hypotheses Comments
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Appendix. The operationalization of all purposed latent constructs Consumer
Product-related attributes of eco-fashion (PRA)
eco-fashion
Q1: Please rate the importance of the following product-related attributes in your mind when making consumption
purchase decision on eco-fashion. (“1” ¼ very unimportant; “5” ¼ very important)
Q1a: Product design
Q1b: Quality
Q1c: Price 215
Store-related attributes of eco-fashion (SRA)
Q2: Please rate the importance of the following store-related attributes in your mind when making
purchase decision on eco-fashion. (“1” ¼ very unimportant; “5” ¼ very important)
Q2a: Customer service
Q2b: Store design and environment
Q2c: Store’s ethical practices
Q2d: Shop convenience
Price premium level of eco-fashion
Q3: Do you think eco-fashion is priced above the average price of generic fashion clothing? (“1”: Yes;
“2”: No)
Q4: Please indicate the extent to which eco-fashion is priced above the average price of generic fashion
clothing. (“1” ¼ 1-10 percent; “2” ¼ 11-20 percent; “3” ¼ 21-30 percent)
Fashion consumers’ eco-fashion consumption decision
Q5: Please indicate the degree to which you are likely to purchase the following types of clothing in the
future. (“1” ¼ 0-20 percent; “5” ¼ 81-100 percent)
Q5a: I will buy clothing that is durable in the future
Q5b: I will buy clothing with recycled content in the future
Q5c: I will buy clothing that is safe to the environment in the future