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Keywords: Many consumers have a positive attitude toward sustainable products; however they commonly end up not
Intention-behavior gap purchasing them. This study focused on exploring the gap between the purchase intention and purchase ex-
Sustainable consumption perience in recycled and upcycled fashion products. Factors including perceived values, risks, environmental
Recycled products concern, perceived consumer effectiveness, subjective norms, and demographic variables were examined to
Upcycled products
understand the discrepancy. This study provides insights into understanding consumers and developing effective
strategies to encourage sustainable consumption.
⁎
Corresponding author at: N13-410, Gaesin-Dong, Cheongju-si Seowon-gu, Chungcheongbuk-do, Chungbuk National University, College of Business, 28644, South
Korea.
E-mail addresses: phj@cbnu.ac.kr (H.J. Park), llm@cbnu.ac.kr (L.M. Lin).
https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jbusres.2018.08.025
Received 9 November 2017; Received in revised form 20 August 2018; Accepted 22 August 2018
Available online 29 August 2018
0148-2963/ © 2018 Elsevier Inc. All rights reserved.
H.J. Park, L.M. Lin Journal of Business Research 117 (2020) 623–628
clothes are getting popular due to environmental benefits and also for a green behavior (Gupta & Ogden, 2009).
personal style (Johansson, 2010). Environmental concern is conceptualized as the extent to which
Upcycling is a process to convert and remake textile waste or useless consumers are worried about threats to the environment (Lee, Kim,
clothing into new products of better quality or a higher environmental Kim, & Choi, 2014). The role of environmental concern affects pro-
value through craftsmanship and design (Cassidy & Han, 2013). The environmental behavior, including green purchase and recycling (Ellen,
movement of refashioning something useless into something useful is a Wiener, & Cobb-Walgren, 1991). Perceived consumer effectiveness or
sustainable solution that requires little energy and eliminates the need efficacy, the extent to which a consumer believes that his/her personal
for a new product from raw materials (Szaky, 2014). efforts can contribute to the environment, also helps explain one's be-
Reusing and upcycling are common practices and are popular in havior (Ellen et al., 1991). According to the literature, people tend to
developing countries with limited resources. Recently, developed engage in green purchase behaviors when they think that they can
countries have paid considerable attention to upcycling in commercial make a difference for solving environmental problems.
perspectives (Szaky, 2014) due to the marketability and the lower cost Another aspect related to pro-environmental behavior is subjective
of reused materials (Sung, 2015). Companies incorporate upcycling in norm (Do Valle et al., 2005) that refers to the normative expectations of
their businesses by creating bags, clothes, and other fashion items. The others, including relatives, peers and neighbors. It captures the social
second-hand clothing industry is also expanding in the west and the pressure people feel about adopting or not adopting a certain behavior
trade of second-hand clothing is carried out through a growing number (Ajzen & Fishbein, 1980), such as purchasing environmentally-friendly
of stores that resell previously worn garments (Hansen, 2010). products.
In comparison, many Asian consumers dislike wearing someone
else's used clothes (Xu, Chen, Burman, & Zhao, 2014). While the up- 2.4. Product characteristics
cycling market worldwide is worth 150 million dollars, Korean upcy-
cling market is worth only 2.5 million dollars. Although consumer in- These internal factors do not fully explain the discrepancy between
terest and demand for upcycled products is increasing, the upcycling attitude and behavior; thus, recent focuses have shifted to the external
market in Korea is still in its initial stages and is not easily expanding factors that intervene in the green consumption process (Carrington,
(Park, 2015). Therefore, it would be interesting to investigate Asian Neville, & Whitwell, 2010; Kim & Rha, 2014). Given the limited in-
consumers' behavior related to second-hand or upcycled fashion pro- fluence of individual factors and the substantial effects of perceived
ducts. product values on purchase decision, the present study considers pro-
duct characteristics, such as utilitarian, interpersonal differentiation,
2.2. Intention–purchase gap and self-expressiveness values, as well as risk factors, such as economic
and availability risks.
A positive attitude toward sustainable products is a starting point to Products provide basic and additional benefits. Basic benefit is re-
stimulate sustainable consumption given that a favorable attitude is a lated to functional and utilitarian benefits, whereas additional benefit is
good predictor of engaging in a specific behavior. However, empirical associated with social and psychological benefits. Consumer value re-
studies in the domain of environmental consumption affirm that pur- fers to a consequence of consumers' perceived benefits (Yoo & Park,
chase intentions do not translate into actual purchasing behavior 2016). Utilitarian value relies on an alternative capacity for perfor-
(Morwitz, Steckel, & Gupta, 2007). Although increasing numbers of mance, such as quality and usability. It can also be defined as the
consumers have positive attitudes toward sustainable products, they possibility for consumers to possess a product that is close to what they
commonly end up not purchasing those products (Morwitz et al., 2007). want (Dellaert & Stremersch, 2005).
Despite pro-environmental attitudes, intentions to recycle, and will- As second-hand and upcycled products can provide additional
ingness to pay extra premiums for eco-friendly products, few consumers benefits related to the need for uniqueness, the value of interpersonal
show regular green buying behavior (Mintel, 2006). differentiation or perceived uniqueness can be discussed. Interest in
The consumer decision process of buying environmentally friendly collecting and wearing vintage for its unique qualities is growing, as
products and is not well understood. Purchasing decisions often in- product attributes, such as unique fabric or certain style, attract con-
corporate various motivations that complicate an understanding of sumers to shop for second-hand clothing (Palmer, 2005). Upcycled
particular instances. Researchers have tried to understand the link be- fashion products are innately one-of-a-kind. Thus, upcycled and second-
tween ethical principles and antecedent behavioral factors. However, hand vintage fashion products can fulfill the desire for individuality.
ethics might be secondary to other decision factors such as a perceived Lastly, the self-expressiveness value is suggested because consumers
conflict between making sustainable choices and fashionable choices wearing green products can display their pro-environmental attitudes.
(Bray, Johns, & Kilburn, 2011; McNeill & Moore, 2015). From focus Consumers seek fashion products to represent him/herself (Dellaert &
group discussion, Bray et al. (2011) identified factors, including price, Stremersch, 2005). Consumers experience self-expressive benefit
experience, lack of information, quality perception, and cynicism that through socially visible green products. They can be motivated to adopt
intervene between consumption intentions and actual behavior. Ac- the products to appear as pro-environmental people (Noppers, Keizer,
cording to the stream of research on green marketing, individual Bolderdijk, & Steg, 2014) given that the products allow them to express
characteristics, such as demographics (Bray et al., 2011), lifestyle environmental consciousness to others.
(Connolly & Prothero, 2003), value, knowledge, perceived behavioral The purchasing gap owes, in part, to the risks perceived with respect
control (Jager, 2000), social norms (Do Valle, Rebelo, Reis, & Menezes, to sustainable goods. Certain consumers may be reluctant to purchase
2005), situational factors likes promotions (Minteer, Corley, & green products due to the risks they perceive in terms of price and
Manning, 2004) might explain the discrepancy. Gap size also relates to availability (Kim & Rha, 2014). Perceived price affects consumer will-
the benefits of products (Kollmuss & Agyeman, 2002) given that most ingness to buy. The lack of availability of stores or limited range of
consumers purchase to fulfill their needs or self-interest. Most of these product assortment is identified as one of impeding factors of green
elements can be divided into individual characteristics, product char- purchases (Connell, 2010).
acteristics and socio-demographic variables.
2.5. Socio-demographic variables
2.3. Individual characteristics
Early research on motivating sustainable performance at the in-
Personal norm conditions, such as consumer involvement with en- dividual level has theorized green behavior as contingent on in-
vironmental issues and perceived consumer effectiveness, strengthen dividuals' socio-structural characteristics, such as gender, age group,
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H.J. Park, L.M. Lin Journal of Business Research 117 (2020) 623–628
education, and related demographics (Jones & Dunlap, 1992). This Seven items were employed to assess the three dimensions of per-
rationale was supported by studies that affirm a well-defined social base ceived product value. Utilitarian value items were adapted from the
behind environment-friendly behaviors, mainly composed of young studies of Holbrook (1999) and Merle, Chandon, and Roux (2008). The
women with high socioeconomic status and level of education (Xiao & examples include the following: “This product is in good quality” and
Dunlap, 2007). Thus, socio-demographic factors are likely to play an “This product is exactly the way I want it to be”. Self-expressiveness
important role in pro-environmental consumptions. was assessed by two items: “The product can represent me” and “This
Consequently, individual characteristics, product characteristics, product completely reflects who I am” (Merle et al., 2008). Inter-
and demographic variables are considered in the present study for the personal differentiation value was measured with two items: “Having
examination of the role of variables in predicting consumers' purchase this product will let me be different from everyone else” and “With this
intention and actual purchasing behavior. product, there's something just a little bit unique about me” (Merle
et al., 2008).
Yi = f (Xj ) + ε .
Four items captured the economic and availability dimensions of
Yi= purchase intention and purchase experience of sustainable perceived risk (Kim & Rha, 2014). Two items for availability risk: “This
fashion products. product has a limited range of sales items” and “This product has a
Xj= subjective norms, perceived consumer effectiveness, environ- limited range of design, style, and/or color”. Two items for economic
mental concern, utilitarian value, interpersonal differentiation value, risk: “I am concerned about not getting my money's worth” and “I am
self-expressiveness value, economic risk, availability risk, gender, age, concerned that it may be expensive”.
education level, and income.
4. Results
3. Method
4.1. Measurement model estimation
3.1. Data collection
Exploratory factor analysis was conducted to identify the common
A survey was conducted focusing on young consumers who are factors of the scale items used in this study and to verify the validity of
fashion-oriented, conscious about their public image, and enjoy im- the variables. A principal component analysis extraction model was
mediate gratification (Akturan, Tezcan, & Vignolles, 2011). The ques- applied, and the varimax rotation method was used. Factor extraction
tionnaire consists of three sections. The first part provided information was determined by an Eigen value of 1 or higher and all variables were
on recycled and upcycled clothing. In the second section, participants extracted as expected. In two different product models, the Bartlett test
were asked to evaluate these two products with the items to measure of sphericity with a value 1875.77 (p < .001) and 1912.31 (p < .001)
the constructs proposed in the model. Lastly, demographic questions and the Kaiser–Meyer–Olkin statistics (> 0.6) corroborate that the data
were included. Among 250 Korean participants, 217 completed the are suitable to identify factor dimensions. For the reliability test,
survey. The age range the subjects was 19–58 years, with an average Cronbach's α was used. Table 1 shows that scale validity and reliability
age of 29 years. Among the respondents, 57.6% (N = 125) were male were verified for all variables, leading to the final analysis for this
and 42.4% (N = 92) were female. In terms of education level, most of study.
the respondents had a bachelor's degree (76%); 5.1% had a qualifica- Table 2 reports the preliminary t-test analysis that explored if con-
tion lower than a bachelor's degree, and 18.9% had a master's degree. sumers uphold different views about the two types of green products.
The results affirm a difference in availability risk mean scores (t = 2.77,
3.2. Measures p < .05) between recycled fashion products (M = 3.07) and upcycled
fashion products (M = 2.81). A weak difference in economic risks
The dependent variables, purchase intention and purchase experi- (t = −1.70, p < .1) exists between recycled (M = 2.84) and upcycled
ence, are categorical variables represented by “Yes” and “No”. Yes is goods (M = 3.00). The utilitarian value also shows a difference
equal to 1 if the respondents have high purchase intention, and 0 if they (t = 2.29, p < .05), indicating that the respondents perceived that
have low purchase intention. For purchase experience, “Yes” is equal to upcycled products have more utilitarian value (M = 3.10) than re-
1 if the respondents had purchase experience and 0 if they did not have cycled fashion products (M = 2.95). The difference in interpersonal
purchase experience. In the original questionnaire, the measurement differentiation (t = −4.16, p < .001) demonstrates that upcycled
items of purchases intention were five-point Likert scales (1 = strongly fashion products (M = 3.72) received higher scores than recycled
disagree; 5 = strongly agree) by using existing classical scales: “I have fashion products (M = 3.35).
an intention to purchase this kind of product in the future”, “I will Recycled fashion products have more availability risk compared
possibly purchase it in the future”, “I will recommend this product to with upcycled fashion products, whereas upcycled fashion products
my family and friends”. In the analysis, respondents were split into two have high economic risk, utilitarian value, and interpersonal differ-
groups based on the mean level, which allow for more direct compar- entiation.
ison of findings from purchase intention model and purchase experi- Table 3 shows that the results of chi-square analysis affirm no sig-
ence model. Continuous variable was also utilized but the results were nificant relationship between the purchase intention and purchase ex-
similar to that of the present model with binary variable. perience of recycled fashion products (χ2 = 2.14, n.s). For upcycled
Environmental concern was assessed using three items adopted fashion products, purchase intention was related to purchase experi-
from the New Environmental Paradigm Scale (Dunlap, Van Liere, ence (χ2 = 15.07, p < .001). However, only 15.7% of the respondents
Mertig, & Jones, 2000). The examples include “Humans are severely have purchase experience although 48.8% of them have purchase in-
abusing the environment” and “Despite our special abilities, humans tention. For recycled fashion products, only 24.0% answered that they
are still subject to the laws of nature”. PCE was adopted from Kim and have purchase experience. The result supports the intention–behavior
Choi (2005). The three-item measures included statements, such as “I inconsistency in environmental consumerism.
feel I can help solve natural resource problems by using this product” Subsequently, a logistic regression analysis was employed to iden-
and “I feel capable of helping solve environmental problems by using tify the characteristics that increase purchase intention and the like-
this product”. Subjective norm was measured with three items, such as lihood of purchase experience associated with recycled and upcycled
“Most people who are important to me think that I should buy this products, respectively. According to Tables 4 and 5 that offers the Chi-
product” and “Most people in my social network want me to buy this square, −2log likelihood, and percentage of correct predictions values,
product”. each of the models was significant. The findings on purchase experience
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H.J. Park, L.M. Lin Journal of Business Research 117 (2020) 623–628
Table 1
Factor analysis.
Factor Recycled product Upcycled product
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8
⁎⁎⁎
p < .001.
Table 2 Table 4
Mean difference between recycled and upcycled fashion products. Logistic regression: for recycled products.
Mean (std. deviation) t p Model 1: purchase Model 2: purchase
intention experience
Recycled Upcycled
products products B Exp(B) B Exp(B)
⁎⁎
Availability risk 3.07 (0.91) 2.81 (0.98) 2.77 .006 Availability risk −0.17 0.84 −0.19 0.83
Economic risk 2.84 (1.02) 3.00 (0.99) −1.70⁎ .089 Economic risk −0.10 0.90 0.13 1.14
Utilitarian value 2.95 (0.68) 3.10 (0.64) −2.29⁎⁎ .022 Utilitarian value 1.25⁎⁎⁎ 3.48 0.49⁎ 1.63
Self-expressiveness 3.17 (0.78) 3.25 (0.79) −1.07 .285 Self-expressiveness 0.28 1.33 0.33 1.38
Interpersonal 3.35 (0.94) 3.72 (0.88) −4.16⁎⁎⁎ .000 Interpersonal differentiation 0.14 1.14 −0.29 0.75
differentiation Subjective norms 0.65⁎⁎ 1.91 −0.05 0.95
Subjective norms 2.47 (0.96) 2.44 (0.95) 0.30 .763 Perceived consumer 0.66⁎⁎ 1.94 0.63⁎⁎ 1.88
Environmental value 4.10 (0.77) 4.07 (0.76) 0.36 .719 effectiveness
Environmental concern 0.62⁎⁎ 1.84 −0.08 0.93
⁎
p < .1. Gender 0.26 1.30 −0.20 0.82
⁎⁎
p < .05. Age −0.00 1.00 −0.02 0.98
⁎⁎⁎
p < .001. Education −0.37 0.69 −0.13 0.88
Income 0.19 1.21 0.46⁎⁎ 1.58
Constant −9.96 0.00 −3.87 0.02
affirm the impacts of antecedents that increase or decrease the like- Chi-square 77.31⁎⁎⁎ 25.07⁎⁎
lihoods of being in high purchase intention and buyer groups. −2 log likelihood 223.40 213.91
Four predicting variables, including utilitarian value (p < .001), Percentage of correct 74.19% 78.80%
predictions
subject norms (p < .05), perceived consumer effectiveness (p < .05),
and environmental concern (p < .05), reliably predicted the purchase ⁎
p < .1.
intention of recycled products. The coefficient values elucidate that ⁎⁎
p < .05.
each unit increase in utilitarian value, subject norms, perceived ⁎⁎⁎
p < .001.
Table 3
Chi-square analysis.
Recycled products Purchase intention Total Upcycled products Purchase intention Total
No Yes No Yes
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H.J. Park, L.M. Lin Journal of Business Research 117 (2020) 623–628
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