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 EVERY

LU XURY
INCLUDED
 April VO LU M E 67 N U M B E R 3

D E S P E R AT E LY
SEEKING DATES
P. 6 8

9 26 38 58 78
The Buy Kitchen Upgrade Comme Une The Gems of Berry Fluffy
Havanna Alfajores Acclaimed designer Parisienne Piedmont A sight to behold,
remind Nico Avalle Sheila Bridges Cookbook author With recipes and Shilpa Uskokovic’s
of sunny sojourns imbues kitchens with Rebekah Peppler must-stop road Japanese-inspired
to Argentina. an abundance of shares her favorite trip destinations, chiffon cake earns the
personality. lunch recipes—and chef Stefano Secchi title of showstopper.
10 BY SAM COCHRAN shops for sourcing sings the praises
Family Meal wine pairings— of his most beloved 81
Za’atar! Scallion 30 in the City of Light. Italian region. Basically
thecha! Herbs galore! The Pour BY CHALA TYSON AS TOLD TO
Consider this your
Greet spring with We’re talking terroir- TSHITUNDU BET TINA MAKALINTAL all-access pass to the
a slate of verdant driven gins from all planet’s most popular
weeknight recipes. around the world. 48 68 beverage besides
BY MACKENZIE
Been There, The Desert’s Fruit water: tea!
22
PHOTOGRAPH BY EMMA FISHMAN

CHUNG FEGAN Ate That Through Ramadan BY MAX FALKOWITZ

The Getaway In his new book, The and beyond,
Restaurateur 34 Cook You Want to 88 IN EVERY ISSUE
Medjool dates are
Santiago Pérez The Read Be, former BA staffer pantry stars, bringing Dream 6 editor’s letter
shares his can’t-miss Banquet halls connect Andy Baraghani life and depth to Dinner Party 86 recipe index
spots to eat, drink, this author to her delves deep into his ricotta toast, soy- Writer Margaret
stroll, and shop Taiwanese heritage— own taste memories braised short ribs, Atwood envisions ON THE COVER
in Mexico City. and a space that with recipes inspired and more. a guest list brimming Illustration by Arsh
AS TOLD TO feels like home. by his travels. BY ZAYNAB ISSA AND with literary icons. Raziuddin. Rendering by
AMIEL STANEK BY ESMÉ WEIJUN WANG BY ALEX BEGGS MEHREEN KARIM BY DAWN DAVIS Danielle Del Plato.
This Easter, put all your
eggs in one cheesecake.

YO U D O N ’ T
J U ST TAST E I T.
You feel it.

SCAN HERE FOR OUR Easter Egg Cheesecake RECIPE ©2022 Kraft Foods
 Editor in Chief
DAWN DAVIS
Executive Editor SONIA CHOPRA
Food Director CHRIS MOROCCO
Deputy Editor MERYL ROTHSTEIN
Creative Director ARSH RAZIUDDIN
Director of Editorial Operations NICK TRAVERSE

Editorial Design Social & Audience Development

Digital Director SASHA LEVINE Design Director CAROLINE NEWTON Global Director of Audience Development, Analytics, & Social Media
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Associate Editors ALI FRANCIS, BETTINA MAKALINTAL Photography Associate Manager, Social Media OLIVIA QUINTANA
Associate Editor, Cooking ANTARA SINHA Visuals Director JOSE GINARTE Associate Analytics Director CLARA CHEN
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4 – APRIL 2022
 NEXT MONTH WE EXPLORE

THE
FUTURE
OF FOOD
 Editor ’s Letter
A toast to Rebekah Peppler’s
dreamy Parisian balcony
P. 38

food graced the pages of BA every month when he

Will Travel for Food
AROUND OUR OFFICE I’m always pleasantly surprised at how
diverse our staff ’s food preferences are. Who is a dessert person,
who is not? Who goes hard for French cassoulet and who prefers
ramen? Our differences notwithstanding, we all agree on at least
this: When it comes to vacations, we pick restaurants before
worked in our test kitchen, shares recipes from his
new cookbook, The Cook You Want to Be, as well as
memories from his trips abroad in “Been There, Ate
That” (page 48). We feature six recipes, but you’re
going to want to make everything in that cookbook.
Then there’s Paris-based food writer Rebekah
Peppler, whose approach to entertaining has gener-
ated a lot of staff enthusiasm. She shares a leisurely
lunch menu along with her most beloved wineshops,
restaurants, and cafés in “Comme Une Parisienne”
(page 38). And if you, like me, can’t wait to get back
to Italy, don’t miss Stefano Secchi’s “The Gems of
Piedmont” (page 58). Secchi helms New York City’s
beloved Rezdôra, but it’s his road trips in northwest
Italy that most influence his cooking.
If you want to keep your flights domestic, come
with us to the Coachella Valley in Palm Springs,
California, which has more going for it than a cer-
tain music festival. This desert region provides the
perfect environment for growing dates, as we learn
from farmer Alya Haq. Our date-focused recipes,
from spice-crusted carrots (page 71) to braised
short ribs (page 73), are all designed to please.
Of course, some travel is just armchair travel, a
chance to daydream. If you’re not ready to hop on
a plane just yet, we have articles to clip for when
the time comes, like restaurateur Santiago Pérez’s
guide to his hometown of Mexico City (page 22).
It’s one itinerary I plan to follow exactly!
Whatever your preference—domestic or inter-
national, city or desert, armchair or airplane—we
wish you safe and sweet travels.
PHOTOGRAPHS: JOANN PAI (PARIS); COURTESY LOST QUARRY (TAN VASE).

hotels and choose museums for their proximity to wine bars. DAW N DAV I S
So in this, our travel issue, we are thrilled to share intel from edi t or in chie f
some of our favorite food obsessives. Andy Baraghani, whose @bonappetitdawn on instagram

A friend gifted me the I’ve long been a fan of

most lovely coffee cup from Dina Nur Satti, another
WHAT the ceramists at Brooklyn Brooklyn ceramic artist
I’M LOVING studio Lost Quarry, which with roots in Sudan and
Gorgeous ceramics sent me to the company’s Somalia. I can’t wait to fill
from Brooklyn artists website (lost-quarry.com), this gorgeous Zir Vessel, a
looking for more. I was symbol of Nubian generosity,
especially drawn to this with spring blossoms (from
earthy organic vase ($625). $425; nurceramics.com).

6 – APRIL 2022
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 KITCHEN GINS FROM
DESIGN GE TS AROUND
PERSONAL THE WORLD

p. 26 p. 30

R e c i p e s , E s s e n t i a l G o o d s , a n d Te s t K i t c he n K n o w - H o w

Sweet,
Sweet
Nostalgia
As a kid I called
Havanna Alfajores
“Oreos Argentinos.”
Opening a box
of the soft, crumbly
sandwich cookies
(my favorites are
filled with dulce
de leche) was like
breaking into a
treasure chest; I’d
dunk them in warm
milk and watch the
chocolate coating
dissolve away.
Each bite still holds
memories of summers
with family in Buenos
Aires and walks
on the grand
Avenida 9 de Julio,
bellies full of asado,
speaking Spanish
and gesticulating Havanna Alfajores,
wildly. It’s been years $20; walmart.com
since I’ve visited, but
I can always find a
box at my local Latin
grocer. The taste
alone brings me close
enough for now.
— N I CO AVA L L E

P H OTO G R A P H BY I S A Z A PATA APRIL 2022 – 9

 Family Meal
This month it is easy being green—thanks to spicy broccoli
rabe noodles, an herby Dutch baby pancake, and more

A hot skillet is crucial

to the Dutch baby’s
classic crispy rim.

I T ’S F I N A L LY springtime,
meaning it’s time to run—not
walk—to your local market and
fill your basket with the earth’s
green gifts. Here, we’re
celebrating the spirit of spring
with four verdant weeknight
recipes featuring bouquets
of cilantro, bundles of basil,
PHOTOGRAPH BY ALLIE HOLLOWAY. FOOD STYLING BY TANEKA MORRIS.

bunches of pungent green

onions, and beyond. “Green
foods convey the sensation
of freshness,” says test kitchen
director Chris Morocco. “That
flavor comes through in so
many ways, channeled by
chlorophyll crashing through
cell walls as you crunch
through snap peas. Green
food tastes literally alive.”
To store your green goods,
Morocco recommends drying
them first and storing in a
just-damp kitchen towel inside
a resealable plastic bag.
—MEHREEN KARIM

10 – A P R I L 2 0 2 2
 Family Meal

4 S E RV I N G S
Crispy Chicken With
Za’atar-Olive Rice
Check the ingredients in your za’atar
blend—if it includes salt you might
not need to season with extra at the
end. If it’s salt-free, season to taste
R E C I P E BY K E N D R A VAC U L I N
1 lb. ground chicken or turkey
½ tsp. smoked paprika
1 tsp. Diamond Crystal or ½ tsp.
Morton kosher salt, plus more
Freshly ground black pepper
3 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil
1 cup Castelvetrano olives, smashed,
pits removed
3 cups cooked rice
1 Tbsp. za’atar, plus more for serving
2 cups coarsely chopped greens
(such as spinach, kale, or chard)
Zest and juice of 1 small lemon
2 oz. feta, thinly sliced into planks
Coarsely chopped dill (for serving)

1. Place chicken in a medium

bowl. Sprinkle paprika and 1 tsp.
Diamond Crystal or ½ tsp. Morton
kosher salt over chicken; season
with pepper. Gently mix with your
hands to combine.
2. Heat oil in a large nonstick
skillet over medium-high. Arrange
chicken in pan in a thin, even
layer and cook, undisturbed,
until golden brown and crisp
underneath, about 5 minutes.
Continue to cook, stirring and
breaking up into bite-size pieces
with a wooden spoon, until cooked
through, about 1 minute. Using a
slotted spoon, transfer chicken to
a plate, leaving oil and fat behind.
3. Add olives to same pan and
cook, undisturbed, until heated
through and blistered, 1–2

PHOTOGRAPH BY EMMA FISHMAN. FOOD STYLING BY MICAH MORTON. PROP STYLING BY DAYNA SEMAN.
minutes. Add rice and 1 Tbsp.
za’atar and cook, stirring often,
until slightly crisp, about 3 minutes.
Add greens and lemon juice
and cook, stirring occasionally,
until greens are wilted, about
2 minutes. Remove pan from heat;
stir in lemon zest, feta, and
chicken. Taste and season with
more salt and pepper if needed.
4. Transfer chicken and rice to a
large shallow bowl; sprinkle with
more za’atar and top with dill.

Any leafy green (spinach,

kale, chard) or cooked grain
(jasmine or brown rice, farro,
barley) would work here.

12 – A P R I L 2 0 2 2
 Family Meal

4 S E RV I N G S
Herby Dutch Baby
With Smoked Salmon
To beat the most air into your eggs
and milk, both have to be at room
temperature. Bring eggs up to temp
fast by letting them sit in hot water
R E C I P E BY S A R A H JA M P E L
½ small red onion, thinly sliced
1 lemon, halved
¾ tsp. Diamond Crystal or ½ tsp.
Morton kosher salt, plus more
4 large eggs, room temperature
1 large egg white, room temperature
2 garlic cloves, finely grated
1 (packed) cup baby spinach
⅔ cup whole milk, room temperature
1 cup tender herb leaves (such as
dill, cilantro, basil, and/or
parsley), plus more for serving
⅔ cup (83 g) all-purpose flour
2 Tbsp. cornstarch
Freshly ground black pepper
2 Tbsp. unsalted butter, cut into pieces
4 oz. smoked salmon

Blend any mix of tender

1. Place a rack in middle of herbs into the batter to give
this savor y pancake its
oven and place a medium
striking color and taste.
ovenproof skillet, preferably cast
iron, on rack. Preheat oven to
425°. Place onion in a small bowl;
squeeze in juice of ½ lemon and
add a big pinch of salt; set aside.
Slice remaining ½ lemon into
wedges and set aside for serving.
2. Blend eggs and egg white in
a blender on high speed until very
frothy, about 1 minute. Add garlic,
spinach, milk, and 1 cup herbs
and blend on high speed until
well combined and very green.
Add flour, cornstarch, and ¾ tsp.
Diamond Crystal or ½ tsp. Morton
kosher salt and season with lots of
pepper; blend to combine.
3. Carefully remove skillet from
oven. Add butter to pan and swirl
to coat bottom. Immediately pour
batter into pan and bake pancake
until puffed and brown around
the edges, 20–25 minutes. (It will
start to deflate as soon as it comes
out of the oven, but don’t worry,
that’s normal.)
4. Top Dutch baby with smoked
PHOTOGRAPH BY ALLIE HOLLOWAY. FOOD STYLING BY TANEKA MORRIS.

salmon, onion, and more herbs;

season with pepper. Serve with
reserved lemon wedges for
squeezing over.

14 – A P R I L 2 0 2 2 C O N T I N U E S O N P A G E 18

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 Family Meal

4 S E RV I N G S
Skirt Steak With
Scallion Thecha
Thecha is a spicy, garlicky green-
chile-based condiment from
Maharashtra in western India. Use
it anywhere you want massive flavor
R E C I P E BY R AC H E L G U RJA R
⅓ cup vegetable oil, plus more for
1 small bunch cilantro, tough stems steak
removed, leaves and tender stems 1 tsp. cumin seeds
coarsely chopped ¼ cup salted or unsalted roasted
4 scallions, coarsely chopped peanuts, crushed
3 green Thai or serrano chiles 1½ lb. ½"-thick skirt steak, cut into
4 garlic cloves 5"-long pieces
1 tsp. Diamond Crystal or ½ tsp. Flaky sea salt
Morton kosher salt, plus more

1. Pulse cilantro, scallions,

chiles, garlic, and 1 tsp. Diamond
Crystal or ½ tsp. Morton kosher
salt in a food processor (a mini
processor works well here) until
a coarse paste forms. Transfer to
a small heatproof bowl.
2. Heat ⅓ cup oil in a small skillet
over medium-high. Cook cumin
until fragrant, about 10 seconds.
Transfer to bowl with paste; add
peanuts and mix well. Set scallion
thecha aside for serving.
3. Pat steaks dry with paper
towels and season on both sides
with kosher salt. Rub a little oil
over steaks to coat lightly.
4. Heat a large cast-iron skillet
over medium-high. Add half of
the steak, arranging in a single
layer, and cook, undisturbed, until

PHOTOGRAPH BY EMMA FISHMAN. FOOD STYLING BY MICAH MORTON. PROP STYLING BY DAYNA SEMAN.
a golden brown crust forms,
2–3 minutes. Turn steak over and
cook until second side forms a
golden brown crust, 2–3 minutes.
(Steak should be thin enough that
once it’s seared it will be cooked
to medium-rare—about 125° on
an instant-read thermometer.
If you have a very hot pan, this
will happen quickly.) Transfer
steak to a cutting board and
repeat process with remaining
steak. Let rest 10 minutes.
5. Slice steak against the grain
and arrange on a platter. Top
with reserved scallion thecha and
sprinkle with sea salt.

Traditionally served with

dishes like bhakri,
Gurjar loves thecha as a
complement for steak.

18 – A P R I L 2 0 2 2
YOU’VE LEARNED
LANGUAGES
FOR THE SOLE
PURPOSE OF
ORDERING FOOD.
WE’VE GOT A SNACK FOR PEOPLE LIKE YOU.
 Family Meal

4 S E RV I N G S
Gochujang-
8–10 oz. fresh or dried wheat noodles
Sesame Noodles (such as lo mein, udon, or ramen)
Any noodles you have in your Kosher salt
pantry will work here—even ¼ cup gochujang
spaghetti. If broccoli rabe isn’t 3 Tbsp. soy sauce
your thing, use broccolini instead 2 Tbsp. light or dark brown sugar
R E C I P E BY Z AY N A B I SS A 2 Tbsp. tahini
2 tsp. toasted sesame oil
2 Tbsp. vegetable oil
1 bunch broccoli rabe, coarsely
chopped
4 garlic cloves, finely chopped
Freshly cracked black pepper
Handful of torn basil leaves, plus
sprigs for serving
Toasted sesame seeds and lime
wedges (for serving)

1. Cook noodles in a large pot

of boiling salted water according
to package directions. Drain and
rinse under cool running water.
2. Whisk gochujang, soy sauce,
brown sugar, tahini, sesame oil,
and 2 Tbsp. water in a small bowl
to combine; set sauce aside.
3. Heat vegetable oil in a wok or
large nonstick skillet over medium-
high. Add broccoli rabe and
garlic; season with salt and lots
of pepper. Cook, tossing often,
until broccoli rabe stems are
crisp-tender and leaves are
wilted, about 2 minutes. Add
reserved sauce and cook, stirring
often, until thickened slightly,
about 2 minutes. Add noodles
and a handful of basil and
toss gently until sauce clings to

PHOTOGRAPH BY EMMA FISHMAN. FOOD STYLING BY MICAH MORTON. PROP STYLING BY DAYNA SEMAN.
noodles, about 1 minute.
4. Divide noodles among bowls
and top with sesame seeds
and more basil. Serve with lime
wedges for squeezing over.

Issa suggests using

O ’Food or Mother-in-
Law’s brand gochujang for
a balanced, spicy kick.

20 – APRIL 2022
 Th e G e t a w a y

Viva
CDMX
From 86-year-old
institutions
to nouveau
mezcalerias, native
son and restaurateur
Santiago Pérez
shows us around
Mexico City
as tol d to
Botánico’s garden
patio in Hipódromo A M I E L S TA N E K

22 – APRIL 2022 P H OTO G R A P H S BY M AU R E E N M . E VA N S

 The Get awa y

Mexico City
I WAS BORN AND RAISED IN MEXICO CIT Y, so it’s
been really exciting over the past decade to see its
popularity explode internationally. As the managing
partner of Cosme in New York and L.A.’s Damian, I pre -
fer the kinds of spots that are a little less obvious, ones
that show a bit more local flavor. Ciudad de México (or
CDMX) is one of the largest cities in the world, juxta-
posing really old, traditional institutions that have been
doing the same thing forever with newer restaurants
that are pushing the boundaries. Nothing reflects the
city’s character today like this combination of the classic
and the avant-garde. From street food to the fanciest Danubio
dining rooms, you can have incredible experiences at Basque food may not be
what you think of when you
every price point without ever sacrificing flavor. My think of Mexico, but Danubio
advice: Make two or three reservations, then spend the THE absolutely deserves a visit.
rest of the time eating and living like a local. ESSENTIALS It’s been open for more than
85 years, and I don’t think
it has changed at all, right
down to the way the waiters
are dressed—here it’s as
if time had stopped. The
langoustines a la plancha,
grilled and served simply
with garlic sauce, are a must.
This is the kind of place where
a long, lazy lunch slowly
The Hot Spots
transitions to an afternoon
• Danubio of drinking, followed by a
• San Ángel Inn much-needed stroll around
• Rincón Tarasco
• Campobaja the Zócalo, Mexico City’s
• Café Nin historic center.
• Botánico
• Salón Rosetta San Ángel Inn
• Ticuchi This place is a true Mexico
City institution, a restaurant in
a colonial-style hacienda
When to Visit
that serves one of the greatest
The weather is nicest
brunches in town. It’s an
between March and
May, before the rainy
excellent place to try mole;
season picks up. the recipes here are from
Puebla, and they are very
traditional. There’s also live
Where to Stay
music on the weekends,
Octavia Casa, an
which is when you want to
elegant boutique
hotel situated in the
go, so it’s important to make
hip, pedestrian- a reservation—be sure to
friendly La Condesa request a table by the garden.
neighborhood The restaurant is next to Frida
Kahlo and Diego Rivera’s
What to Bring Back
Museo Casa Estudio and
Pérez has a soft
only a short walk to El
spot for dried Bazaar Sábado artisan
chili mangoes and market (Saturdays only), so
always takes a stash you can easily plan a whole
Ticuchi’s salt-cured kampachi with black aguachile home with him. day around your meal.

24 – APRIL 2022

Popcorn plays nice with martinis and negronis at Salón Rosetta
Rincón Tarasco
For street tacos Rincón Tarasco
near Polanco is definitely my
go-to. I love a place that
specializes in one specific thing
and does it really well, and in
this case that’s Michoacán-style
carnitas: pork cooked for hours
in lard, served on fresh tortillas
with onions and cilantro. And
of course a few beers to wash it
all down. I like to head over
to Nevería Roxy for a mandarin
sorbet afterward and eat it
while roaming around beautiful
Chapultepec Park.
Campobaja
Located in the trendy tree-lined
neighborhood of Roma Norte,
Campobaja has the perfect
laid-back ambience and some
of the best seafood in the city.
They serve a great selection
of ceviches, aguachiles, and
shellfish on the half shell, as
well as plenty of interesting
mezcals, cocktails, and local
craft beers. It’s a really lively
place, and in back there’s
a hidden court for playing
pétanque—a French ball game
similar to bocce—which is
pretty unique for Mexico City.
Th e G e t a w a y
Café Nin
For breakfast try this spot in
the hip, up-and-coming Juárez
neighborhood, and go on
a weekday if you can to avoid
a wait. They have amazing
coffee, lots of varieties
of bread and pastry, and
breakfast staples such as
chilaquiles. I prefer to go late
in the morning to fuel up before
taking the long, steep climb
to the top of Chapultepec
Castle for some of the most
excellent views of the city.
Botánico
This is one of my favorite
new restaurants, and I’m not
alone—it’s very popular and
hard to get a table. But once
you’re in, you’re guaranteed
great food and people-
watching. The design is
exceptional, with beautiful
Art Deco touches and a secret-
garden-esque patio with a
50-year-old cactus at the
center of it. It’s a modern bistro
with a menu that changes
constantly, but everything I’ve
tried is fresh and exciting—
definitely get the rib-eye burger
if it’s available.
Check out the daily fish selection at Campobaja
MARKET REPORT
The shopping in Mexico City
is every bit as delightful and
diverse as the dining. Here
are a few of Pérez’s favorite
spots to browse:
Casa Bosques
The chic art and design
bookstore in the Roma Norte
neighborhood boasts its own
line of artisanal bean-to-bar
chocolates.
Mercado San Juan
This sprawling daily food
market has two sections:
one with Mexican dining
stalls and the other with
a wide range of indigenous
and imported ingredients.
Xinú
Mexican tuberose, copal
resin, and agave are just
a few of the ingredients used
to make unique botanical
scents at this sleek and stylish
perfume shop.
Lago
In a boutique as beautiful as
the things it sells, you’ll find
an array of textiles, ceramics,
accessories, and more made
by up-and-coming designers
from across Latin America.
Salón Roset ta
I love all of Elena Reygadas’s
restaurants. She cooks
primarily Mexican food with
some references to Italy; it’s
all very subtle and delicate.
When I’m looking for a night
out but not necessarily trying
to party, I start the evening
at Salón Rosetta, the cocktail
bar above her acclaimed
restaurant Rosetta. It’s so calm
and stylish, with an almost
speakeasy vibe. The bar is
very small, and the cocktails
are amazing. I always get
the negroni, which is fantastic—
the quality of the spirits is just
outstanding.
Ticuchi
For mezcal you won’t be
able to find anywhere else
in the city, continue the night
by heading over to Ticuchi,
located in the old Pujol space.
It feels like a bat cave to me—
very dark, broody, super sexy.
I think it’s one of the best bars
in town. They also serve food
if you get hungry, primarily
Mexican antojitos, little snacks
like tamales with which to
begin or end a night.
APRIL 2022 – 25
 Kitchen Upgrade

Personality Studies
At home and for distinguished clientele, Sheila Bridges
grounds her interior design with a unique sense of place
by SA M C O C H R A N

Start Your Engine

For a 1936 Cotswold-style

PHOTOGRAPH BY FRANK FRANCES/OTTO. ILLUSTRATION BY CARLY JEAN ANDREWS.

estate in New York,
Bridges’s client found
inspiration in the driveway
of all places—resulting in
cabinets painted the same
DESIGNER green as their son’s vintage
Sheila Bridges Ford pickup truck. “Ideas
can come from anywhere,”
HOME BASE she notes of the kitchen,
New York Cit y designed in collaboration
with architect David Abelow.
MANTRA “It’s fun when people don’t
Furnishing for ward— take things so seriously.”
furnish for a lifetime The rich hue complements
the green shades in the
GO-TO MEAL dining room’s hand-painted
Fresh ramen with all wallpaper. “A kitchen
t ypes of vegetables shouldn’t be stand-alone.
from my CSA It should have a relationship
to adjoining spaces.”

26 – APRIL 2022
 Kitchen Upgrade

RECURRING History Lessons

MOTIFS At her Harlem
apartment, located in
Signature design a landmark 1901
ingredients add a building, she looked to
Sheila Bridges touch to
the past, modeling the
one -of-a-kind rooms.
traditional cabinetry
after the home’s original
doors. Benjamin Moore
Hemlock blue paint
complements her Torino
Damask wallpaper,
which she designed
after a historic painted
The designer praises ceiling in Turin, Italy.
marble’s rich character “The room looks the
and unique veining. same today as it did
“It can be any 10 years ago,” she
kind: Vermont Danby, says. “It is possible to
Carrara.” From do a timeless kitchen.”
$536 a square meter;
lapicida.com Odes to Joy
“If you look back at
my own kitchens, all
of them are different,”
Bridges says. For her
1,600-square-foot
retreat in the Hudson
Valley, she opted for a
small and open kitchen
“I used to have a lot of from which to entertain
parties,” Bridges notes, her frequent guests. The

PHOTOGRAPHS: ANNIE SCHLECHTER FROM HOUSE BEAUTIFUL (HARLEM KITCHEN); FRANK FRANCES FROM ELLE DECOR (HUDSON VALLEY KITCHEN);
explaining her vast space features neutral
collection of vintage cabinets and pops of
glassware. $325 for set yellow in the form of a
of nine; 1stdibs.com Smeg range, Le Creuset
Dutch oven, and
Nanette Hahn painting.
Her ultimate advice?
“Surround yourself with
the things you love, the
things that make you
happy. Everybody is
unique, and that is what
design is all about.”
When it comes to
appliances, you can’t
go wrong with Italian—
which remind Bridges
Local Attractions
of her studies in
At Bridges’s pied-à-terre
Florence. From $6,549; in Reykjavík, the kitchen
us.bertazzoni.com is an homage to CHRIS MOTTALINI FROM NEW YORK MAGAZINE (REYKJAVÍK KITCHEN).

Iceland’s nature and

culture. Black cabinets
nod to the country’s
basalt columns and
black sand beaches,
and 3D wallpaper
designed by Twenty2
with Pratt Institute
features a nautical motif
of Viking ships and
The designer’s iconic
Harlem Toile de Jouy
crashing waves. “I make
pattern, seen here
all my visitors put on 3D
as a wallpaper, glasses,” she says.
features scenes that Wine storage under the
explore stereotypes of eaves and a magnetic
Blackness. $300 knife block help to max
a roll; sheilabridges.com out the snug space.

28 – APRIL 2022
 QUICK
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 Th e P o u r

S Ô N G C Á I V I Ê. T GLENDALOUGH
N A M D RY G I N WILD GIN
This woody, first-of-its- This floral spirit from
kind Vietnamese Glendalough relies on
gin gets its profile from plants like red clover,
black cardamom, blackberr y leaves, and
pomelo, and dia sieu elderflower, most of
wood, which are mostly which are gathered by
farmed and foraged a single local forager
by members of the from the area around
Red Dao, Hmong, and the distiller y in Ireland’s
other ethnic groups. Wicklow Mountains.

W E ’R E A C O U P L E D E C A D E S I N T O T H E G I N A I S S A N C E ,

Let Gin Be Your Guide
Take a mental trip to the highlands of Vietnam,
Scotland’s Outer Hebrides, and more with a sip
of these evocative hyper-regional gins.
b y M AC K E N Z I E C H U N G F E GA N
a term that should be only invoked, as Anthony Lane writes in
The New Yorker, by those willing to be “banned from public bars
in perpetuity.” My exile will be softened by my home bar, stocked
with an array of contemporary gins that expand the category
beyond the classic juniper-forward London Dry. Some are floral,
others citrusy, but my favorites are infused with a sense of place.
Gin starts out as a neutral spirit that can be distilled from just
about anything with sugar content, the most common raw material

P H OTO G R A P H BY E M M A F I S H M A N
 NIKKA COFFEY GIN ISLE OF
Named for the still HARRIS GIN
used in its production, The star here is locally
this zest y gin incorporates harvested sugar kelp,
four Japanese citrus which lends brininess
varieties, including to this gin’s orris root,
amanatsu and yuzu orange, and coriander
as well as sansho notes. The rippled glass
peppercorns which, like bottle (a keeper) also
their close relatives from evokes the maritime
Sichuan, are members essence of Scotland’s
of the citrus family. Outer Hebrides.

being various grains like corn and wheat. From there it goes through who’s been mostly grounded the past two years, these spirits
PROP STYLING BY DAYNA SEMAN

a secondary distillation process where botanicals are introduced
to impart flavor and character. Technically speaking, for gin to be
gin, the dominant note must be juniper. But beyond that, anything
else—from brussels sprouts to red wood ants—is fair game (and yes,
both those gins exist).
For terroir-driven distillers around the world, this simple formula
presents an opportunity to tap spices, herbs, and fruits that suffuse
gins with geographical specificity and soul—and for an avid traveler
are multisensory souvenirs of trips past. Sông Cái’s gin recalls
a misty hike through the mountainous Northwest Highlands of
Vietnam. Nikka’s offering evokes a meal of grilled unagi and
sansho pepper in Tokyo washed down with very cold beer. And
Isle of Harris’s namesake gin reminds me of the half dozen sheep
I nearly hit on a winding one-lane road in Scotland. That drive
certainly called for a stiff martini afterward—as do all of these
transportive gins, which are equally good with a splash of tonic.

A P R I L 2 0 2 2 – 31
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 A Life in Banquets
For me and my family, Hong Fu was one of the few places that truly felt like home
by E S M É W E I J U N WA N G
THE BANQUE TS ARE WHAT I most remember about
Hong Fu. Many of the customs of banquet meals in
Taiwan were also present at Hong Fu, despite the fact
that it served both Sichuan and Taiwanese cuisines and
was in Cupertino, California. Upon our arrival waitstaff
would present a variety of set menus in ascending order
of cost per table to whomever had made the reserva-
tion. The number and order of dishes on a banquet
menu are purposefully set, and the waitstaff brings out
the food just as thoughtfully. Eight dishes are lucky
because eight (“ba”) sounds like “fa,” a word that con-
jures prosperity. Four, which sounds like the word for
death, ought to be avoided at all costs. A few select
dishes come out at a time so that diners may enjoy a
variety of flavors and textures at any moment; soup
and cold appetizers arrive at the beginning, and fried
rice and/or noodles come toward the end.
My parents are Taiwanese immigrants. They moved
first to Michigan, where I was born, then to the San
Francisco Bay Area, where several groups of relatives
later followed. It was one of my brother’s Taiwanese
American classmates who first told us about Hong Fu’s
renowned Taiwanese beef noodle soup. Word of mouth
was how my parents learned which restaurants to trust
in a new land. Hong Fu became the place where my
extended family met for casual meals and also held
celebratory banquets, rejoicing over birthdays, new
jobs, and anniversaries within its cream-colored walls.
Traditionally, in these meals, the more luxurious the
food, the more the host is able to “save face”—a Chinese
phrase that refers to maintaining social standing through
manners and courtesy. Abalone is prized not only for its
delicate flavor and chewy texture but also because it is
so complicated to catch. Whether served braised with
I L LU ST R AT I O N S BY GA B R I E L L E W I DJ A J A

black mushrooms, grilled in soy sauce,
or sautéed with bok choy, it’s a delicacy
that requires a significant investment of
time by fishermen who have carefully
sought the camouflaged fish and pried it
from the rocks. Meat dominates banquet
dishes because it signifies wealth. (A com-
mon joke in Han Chinese culture is that
women—stereotypically watching their
figures—are always complaining about
the absence of vegetables.)
The traditional Sichuan dishes served
at Hong Fu were dramatically flavorful,
and over the decades that we went there,
my family developed a love for certain
ones: gleaming, skinny toothpicks of beef
soaked in chili oil (gan bian niu rou); my
brother’s favorite, fried slices of pork with
thinner slices of jalapeño (jiao yan pai gu);
whole fish with ginger and scallions (qing
zheng yu); chicken egg drop soup heavy
with corn kernels (ji dan yu mi geng, pop-
ular with children); sweet walnut shrimp
with mayonnaise (mi zhi he tao xia, always
sure to please newcomers). Whether we
chose a pricier banquet or a less expen-
sive one depended on the importance of
the occasion and how flush the host felt
at the time. Walnut shrimp frequently
appeared at our more casual banquets
whereas fancier dishes like bok choy with
sea cucumbers or Peking duck with sweet
sauce and fluffy white buns were eaten
less often. Even the questions around
the table became tradition: To this day,
my mother always asks whether I’d like
some sea cucumber or bitter melon, even
though I’ve never, ever said yes to either.
Eating at Hong Fu also taught me the
rules of Chinese manners and family tra-
dition. Elders, for example, not only take
the first seats at the round table but also
eat the first bite of every dish. I learned
that it’s important to check with everyone
at the table before rotating the lazy Susan
and taking the final piece. I learned that
if there are leftovers whomever has paid
the bill heartily encourages the guests to
take them home. These behaviors became
ingrained. When I ate dinner with my
second-generation friends whose parents
had emphasized assimilation, I found that
their table manners more closely mimicked
those of my white friends: Everyone sat
down at random, the first bite of every dish
was as likely to be taken by a child as by an
elder, and the last bite was up for grabs.
On the contrary and despite my passion
for Saturday morning cartoons, the Bee
Gees, and McDonald’s, my family’s ban-
quets had succeeded—partially—in keep-
ing me connected to our cultural origins.
36 – APRIL 2022
Th e R e a d
t H E M O S T F A M O U S banquet turned out to be his sister. She adored
in Chinese history is the Hong Fu’s special banquet dessert, xiao
Manchu-Han imperial feast, lao shu—adzuki-bean-paste-filled, deep-
which was held in Beijing’s Forbidden fried pastries in the shape of mice. She
City during the reign of Qing Dynasty loves this dish so much, in fact, that her
Emperor Kangxi (1661–1722). This apoc- email address and social media handles
ryphal feast consisted of 108 dishes and are inspired by its name.
six meals over the course of three days. In 2009, as Chris and I planned the
Peking duck, shark’s fin soup, egg tarts, menu for our Bay Area wedding, we
the “snowy palm”—a meaty bear claw decided on mostly Cajun food for the
with sturgeon. By the time Taiwan stood reception. Therefore, a banquet at
under Japanese colonial rule in the early Hong Fu became the obvious choice for
20th century, banquets on the island the rehearsal dinner. We rented one
were usually catered by restaurants— of the restaurant’s handful of private
though in the countryside the host pro- rooms, each sizable enough for five large,
vided the tableware, stoves, tables, and white-tablecloth-covered, round tables
chairs; a chef cooked in a makeshift that could serve the dishes we loved.
kitchen; and the neighborhood ate and Throughout the dinner, my fiancé and
celebrated together. I went around greeting family and a
These were the original pan toh, or single table of friends, many of whom
roadside banquets, that my rural-born had never before eaten the dishes that
mother attended as a child in Taiwan. I now found so familiar. Even a friend
She grew up in Pingtung, who considers herself pes-
25 minutes away from the catarian enjoyed the tea-
much larger city of Kaoshi- At a banquet smoked duck. Compared
ung. Her own mother’s wed- restaurant I to the hundred tables at
ding banquet was reputed feel like a my maternal grandparents’
to be the city’s largest at member of the wedding banquet, it was a
the time; as the lore goes, in-group, paltry gathering. But I was
the Hsu wedding was made thrilled to have so many
linked to the
up of 100 tables. When I loved ones in the restaurant
place and
ask my mother about her where I could reenact, in
favorite pan toh dish, she flavors from my own way, my family’s
speaks reverently of pork which my manners and traditions.
with bamboo shoots, but ancestors came. A year later I had gradu-
not nearly as reverently as ated from my MFA program
she does of cai wei tang, a in Michigan, and Chris and
soup full of whatever vegetables (the I moved to San Francisco. The city is
stars of the dish) and meats were fresh known for its world-class Chinatown,
specialties of the region. “At the end of but the restaurants there are primarily
the banquet we put all of the leftovers Cantonese, a reflection of the city’s
into a pot. This is the most delicious,” she Chinese population. The South Bay
told me, laughing. “The secret ingredient where I’d grown up was only an hour
is everyone’s saliva!” away, but it felt too far to go by myself to
Taiwanese banquets were how my par- dine, especially because my parents had
ents celebrated their own wedding and moved back to Taiwan while I was in
many others, so it made sense that a ban- graduate school. And so I took a long
quet hall like Hong Fu became the locus pause from eating Chinese food. I
of my family’s celebrations in the U.S. enjoyed all the culinary variety that San
When my white, Southern boyfriend (now Francisco offered me, but if I truly
husband) visited me in California for the thought about the food that I’d grown up
first time, I was adamant we go to Hong with, I found myself bereft.
Fu. We’d met in college on the East Coast, Hong Fu served its final meal on
back when Chris’s understanding of Chi- June 22, 2019. The owners’ children had
nese food did not extend far beyond kung sought careers outside of the restaurant,
pao chicken and General Tso’s; over the so there was no one to take over the busi-
years of our courtship, my family and I ness. I went with my remaining Bay Area
grew to love his adventurous appetite and family on that last day, to enjoy our final
even declared him to have a “Chinese Hong Fu banquet. It was a bittersweet
stomach.” When his New Orleanian family occasion, in which I relished the plates of
met mine and discovered Hong Fu for spicy pork and chili-soaked sea bass but
themselves, the most passionate fan couldn’t bear the thought of never eating

there again. My cousins, who had been
eating at the restaurant since they sat in
high chairs, had brought their long-term
partners to the meal, which marked a
passage of time that Chris and I found
astonishing. We ate the same tea-smoked
duck that I loved. As we left the bustling
restaurant, I snapped a photo of the sign
that hung over the koi pond in front,
which thanked the customers, the staff,
and their Buddhist guru before ending:
We gave our best for the last 29 years
With many shared great moments,
cherished sweet memories, with gratitude,
We Thank You for Everything!
A hot pot restaurant was slated to
replace Hong Fu—but the last I heard it
was still dusty and empty inside.
b
ANQUE T HALLS in the Bay
Area and beyond have been
struggling since even before the
pandemic, and these closures mean much
more than a loss of places to eat. As jour-
nalist Melissa Hung and others have docu-
mented, banquet halls in many cities are
community gathering spaces, particu-
larly for the elderly, who are experienc-
ing an uptick in violence due to anti-Asian
hate crimes. A place for celebrations is
crucial to keeping Chinatowns glued
together: Hung also reports that in San
Francisco banquet halls are centers for
associations, civic organizations, and
outreach to local politicians. Whereas
the banquets I attended growing up
were small affairs, a San Francisco China-
town banquet could summon up to a
thousand people. Now many of those
grand halls are empty. Though I was
never a part of that community, I can eas-
ily picture the shuttered doors of Hong Fu
and consider the loss of celebrations and
weekly family gatherings—so much more
than what’s printed on a menu.
This was not, however, the end of ban-
quets for our family. My sister-in-law
Claudia’s family, Cantonese from San
Francisco, had a favorite banquet restau-
rant of their own: formerly called May
Flower and now called the Hong Kong
Flower Lounge. It’s located just outside
San Francisco, approximately an hour
from where Hong Fu had been.
Flower Lounge is a much larger space
than Hong Fu, able to seat up to 550
guests at a time. The Michelin Guide’s
write-up seems clearly aimed at white
diners, referring to it as a “palace of pork
buns” patronized by “dim sum die hards.”
But when I asked my mother about the
Flower Lounge, she too spoke of it with
reverence: “We moved to the Bay Area
and it was impossible to get a table there!”
After Hong Fu closed, our joined fami-
lies began to have celebrations at Flower
Lounge—most memorably, my niece’s
Red Egg Party, the Cantonese celebration
of a baby’s 100th day. A lunch banquet
menu for a Red Egg Party starts at $259 a
table, with 10 people at each table. We ate
seafood and bean curd soup; those
walnut prawns; Peking duck two ways,
including tender sautéed and minced
duck in crispy lettuce cups; lobster with
ginger and bright green onion; fried noo-
dles with sliced chicken. Other banquets
might include braised dried oysters with
sprinkles of black moss; white fish, gath-
ered live from tanks and steamed; pan-
fried sticky rice, both chewy and crispy.
Why, I asked my sister-in-law, was her
family always able to get a seat at the
Hong Kong Flower Lounge without has-
sle? Her grandmother, she explained, had
long ago taken care of the owner’s ailing
wife. Though her grandmother passed
away years ago, the restaurant continues
to lavish the Ngs with affection.
When I was a child my family fre-
quented a salad bar chain called Fresh
Choice. It appealed to us because it was all-
you-can-eat American food for under $10.
In other words, it was a place for penny-
pinching immigrants. It was also a place
where a white woman once shouted at my
mother to “go back to China, and take
those brats with you.” My American-born
brother and I were, of course, the brats.
I care about the continued existence of
banquet halls, and Chinese restaurants
that serve banquets, because they are the
antidotes to Fresh Choice. In a country
that prioritizes the white experience,
they’re sites that speak to my cultural
background, my upbringing. At a banquet
restaurant I feel like a member of the
in-group, linked to the place and flavors
from which my ancestors came. These
restaurants offer immigrants a chance to
connect where they are comfortable,
without the expectation to perform
“being American” in a way that demands
familiarity with customs, language, and
foods. As much as my mother enjoyed
discovering the taste of avocados and
tiramisu when she moved to America,
eating at Hong Fu was like putting on a
warm, familiar robe. It felt like a sigh of
relief to be served foods that reminded
her of home. Today when I take a non-
Taiwanese or non-Chinese guest to a ban-
quet, it’s an invitation, a question. I’m
asking, as one of my favorite poets Lucille
Clifton writes, “won’t you celebrate with
me / what I have shaped into a kind of
life?” To celebrate a new job, or a birth-
day, or simply that we have survived.
Esmé Weijun Wang is the author of the
‘New York Times’ best-selling essay
collection ‘The Collected Schizophrenias.’
A P R I L 2 0 2 2 – 37
 T R A N S P O R T YO U RS E L F TO T H E S TO R I E D S T R E E T S O F PA R I S W I T H S I X B R E E Z Y
R E C I P E S F RO M C O O KB O O K AU T H O R R E B E K A H P E P P L E R

BON PAR IS,

APPÉTIT FRANCE

TEX T BY PHOTOGR APHS BY

Chala Tyson Tshitundu Joann Pai

39
W hen American
food writer
Rebekah Peppler
moved to France in 2015
she wasn’t quite sold on
the romantic ideal that
lures most visitors. “Paris
had always been in the
back of my mind, not so
much as this fantasy city
but a place that I would
have to live for my job
at some point,” Peppler
says. Several years after
earning a pastry arts
degree at New York’s
erstwhile French Culinary
Institute, Peppler
journeyed to the City of
Light in search of greater
work opportunities.
Since then, life in Paris
has burgeoned more
than just her career.
“France has taught me
that food brings people
together, but the
connection happens
whether there’s a meal on
the table or not,” she says.
Enamored with the
intimacy of French
hospitality, Peppler
started hosting weekly dinner parties in her airy
Montmartre apartment. These meals, and the menus
she created, are central to her latest cookbook,
À Table: Recipes for Cooking + Eating the French
Way. “I was really interested in showing Paris as it
is—it’s vibrant and beautiful and queer,” she says.
At its heart À Table is about curating memorable
experiences to share with friends and lovers the way
Parisians do. “Gathering became a magical routine.
I’d go shopping in the morning at my marché, open
up a bottle of wine at 5, and friends would arrive
at 6. I always knew that on Sundays I would get
to see the people I love. After eating we would go
outside and watch the Eiffel Tower sparkle.”
Here, Peppler extends a seat at her table for a full
Parisian lunch, including buttery new potatoes
covered in Mimolette cheese, fresh radish and herb
salad accented with caramelized lemons, a juicy
slow-cooked leg of lamb that’s sure to be the pièce
de résistance, and more. “I feel grateful for
the opportunity to show love the way that I do,” EGGS RÉMOULADE
Peppler says, “which is by having people over and P. 4 3
feeding them.”
40
Peppler enjoys aperitifs with partner Laila Said on the balcony of their Montmartre home.
SEVEN-HOUR LEG OF LAMB
P. 47

NEW P OTATOES
WITH MIMOLETTE
P. 4 4
Chambéry Cassis
MAKES 1 The winey depth of crème de
cassis (black currant liqueur) hums softly
in the background of this sparkly crimson
aperitif that’s easy to stir together and
even easier to drink. Be sure to seek out
dry white vermouth, such as Dolin Dry
Vermouth de Chambéry, which is pale
and aromatic, rather than sweeter blanc,
or bianco, vermouth.

3 oz. dry vermouth CHAMBÉRY

½ oz. crème de cassis or Chambord CASSIS
½ oz. fresh lemon juice
Chilled club soda (for serving)
Red currants or orange twist
(for serving; optional)

Pour vermouth, crème de cassis, and

lemon juice into a Collins glass filled
with ice. Stir gently with a bar spoon or
other long-handled spoon to combine.
Top off glass with club soda and
garnish with currants or an orange twist
if desired.

Citrus-Marinated Olives
6 S E RV I N G S
This “olive lovers only” mix
goes great with a drink, whether it’s an
aperitif for one or cocktails for a small
crowd. Layered with orange, coriander,
and peppercorns, the simple marinade
offers an easy upgrade for a store-
bought staple.
1 small navel orange, quartered,
thinly sliced
8 large garlic cloves, lightly crushed
2 bay leaves
¾ cup extra-virgin olive oil
6 sprigs thyme
2 Tbsp. sherry vinegar or red wine
vinegar
1 Tbsp. black peppercorns, crushed
1 Tbsp. coriander seeds, crushed
2 cups mixed olives (such as Niçoise,
Picholine, and/or Cerignola)
Cook orange, garlic, bay leaves, and oil
in a small saucepan over medium heat,
swirling occasionally, until garlic is
sizzling and golden around the edges,
8–12 minutes. Remove from heat and
stir in thyme sprigs, vinegar, peppercorns,
and coriander seeds. Let cool until
marinade is lukewarm, about 20 minutes.
Place olives in a small bowl and pour
marinade over. Let sit at room
temperature 1–4 hours before serving.
D O A H E A D : Olives can be marinated
2 weeks ahead. Cover and chill. Bring
to room temperature before serving.
CITRUS-
MARINATED
OLIVES
Eggs Rémoulade
6 S E RV I N G S
Rémoulade, the classic
combination of mayonnaise, herbs,
capers, cornichons, and “just enough”
anchovy, turns hard-boiled eggs into
an ideal snack for company. If you’re
short on time, just set out unshelled hard-
boiled eggs in a bowl, spoon rémoulade
in another, and let guests have at it.
12 large eggs
1 oil-packed anchovy fillet,
finely chopped
¼ cup mayonnaise
1 Tbsp. finely chopped cornichons
1 Tbsp. fresh lime juice
1 tsp. Dijon mustard
½ tsp. finely chopped drained capers
⅓ cup finely chopped tender herbs
(such as parsley, chives, tarragon,
and/or dill), plus more for serving
Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper
Hot sauce and/or flaky sea salt
(for serving; optional)
Pour water into a medium saucepan
to come 1" up the sides and bring
to a boil. Using a slotted spoon, gently
lower eggs into water. Cover pan,
reduce heat to medium-low, and cook
10 minutes. Transfer eggs to a bowl of
ice water and let cool, about 5 minutes.
Peel eggs and slice in half lengthwise.
Arrange cut side up on a platter or
large plate.
Stir anchovy, mayonnaise, cornichons,
lime juice, mustard, capers, and ⅓ cup
herbs in a small bowl until well combined.
Season rémoulade with salt and pepper.
Spoon ½ Tbsp. rémoulade over each
egg half. Top with more herbs, followed
by hot sauce and sea salt (if using).

43
Fried Lemon and
Radish Salad
6 S E RV I N G S
With fried lemons, herbs,
radishes, and pistachios, this salad
effortlessly bridges winter and spring.
Don’t skip blanching the lemon slices;
it takes only a few minutes and stamps
out unwanted bitterness in the pith.
D R E SS I N G
2 medium shallots, thinly sliced
¼ cup sherry vinegar or red wine
vinegar
2 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice
1 Tbsp. plus 1½ tsp. finely chopped
drained capers
1 Tbsp. Dijon mustard
1 tsp. honey
¾ cup extra-virgin olive oil
Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper
S A L A D A N D ASS E M B LY
½ cup raw pistachios
1 large lemon
Kosher salt
FRIED LEMON AND
RADISH SALAD
44
¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil
Flaky sea salt
3 oz. tender salad greens (such as
arugula or mâche; about 3 cups)
2 cups coarsely chopped parsley
leaves with tender stems
1 cup mint leaves, torn if large
1 bunch red radishes, trimmed,
thinly sliced
D R E SS I N GWhisk shallots, vinegar, lemon
juice, capers, mustard, and honey in a
small bowl; let sit at least 10 minutes and
up to 1 hour. Whisk in oil and season
dressing with salt and pepper.
D O A H E A D : Dressing can be made
2 days ahead; cover and chill.
Toast pistachios
S A L A D A N D ASS E M B LY
in a dry small skillet over medium
heat, tossing occasionally, until golden
brown in spots, about 4 minutes. Transfer
to a cutting board and coarsely chop.
Thinly slice lemon crosswise into
rounds; pluck out seeds and discard.
Cook lemon slices in a medium saucepan
of boiling salted water until just barely
tender, about 2 minutes. Drain and pat
dry with paper towels.
Heat oil in a large skillet over medium-
high. Working in batches, cook lemon
slices, turning occasionally, until golden
brown, about 5 minutes. Transfer to paper
towels and season with sea salt; let cool.
Set aside a few lemon slices for serving.
Transfer remaining lemon slices to
a cutting board and coarsely chop.
Drizzle half of dressing in a large
bowl. Add greens, parsley, mint,
radishes, and chopped lemon slices;
toss to coat. Top with pistachios and
reserved lemon slices. Serve remaining
dressing alongside.
New Potatoes With Mimolette
6 S E RV I N G S
As with many things in life,
these tender, deeply golden potatoes
are even better showered with a flurry
of cheese. If you can’t find sweet, nutty,
electric orange Mimolette, substitute
with Parmesan, aged Gouda, or aged
cheddar. Each alternative will lend its
own flavor to the final dish, but at the end
of the day they’re still potatoes covered
in cheese, and that’s never a bad thing.
¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil
2 lb. new or other small waxy
potatoes (about 1" in diameter),
scrubbed, halved
Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper
2 Tbsp. unsalted butter,
cut into pieces
3 Tbsp. fresh lime juice, divided
2 tsp. piment d’Espelette or smoked
paprika, plus more for serving
4 oz. Mimolette, Parmesan, aged
Gouda, or aged cheddar,
finely grated
Heat oil in a large heavy skillet, preferably
cast iron, over medium. Add potatoes
and season with salt and pepper. Cook,
tossing occasionally, until potatoes are
golden brown all over, 10–12 minutes.
Add butter, 2 Tbsp. lime juice, 2 tsp.
piment d’Espelette, and ½ cup water
to skillet. Cover, reduce heat to low,
and cook, tossing occasionally, until
potatoes are fork-tender and no liquid
remains, 10–12 minutes. Remove
from heat and stir in remaining 1 Tbsp.
lime juice. Taste and season with more
salt and pepper if needed.
Transfer potatoes to a platter and
blanket with cheese. Dust generously
with more piment d’Espelette.
 PEPPLER’S
Paris
Rebekah shares where she eats,
drinks, and shops around the city

Marché Popincourt
The fruit stand at this farmers market
is my favorite place to shop in
the summer. When I buy melons,
they always ask when I’ll be eating
them (tonight, tomorrow, in three
days?)—and pick one that’s
ripe exactly when I need it to be.

La Cave Verre Volé

I always pair a market run with
a stop at this natural wine store for
a bottle of Marie Rocher’s Emmenez-
Moi or Julie Balagny’s O Bella
Ciao. Le Verre Volé has multiple
locations across the city, but I frequent
La Cave on Rue Oberkampf.

Folderol
Ordering a glass of something
bubbly and a plate of thinly sliced
finocchiona at this wine bar and ice
cream shop is one of the top perks
of living in Paris. I’ll inevitably
head home with two to four bottles
and a pint of pistache, huile d’olive,
yaourt, or cannelle ice cream.

Early June
Owners Camille and Victor have
created a truly special space
at this restaurant in the 10th
arrondissement—the guest chefs
are rotating; the produce and
proteins are impeccably sourced;
and the wine is always perfect.

Sur Mer
This seafood spot is owned by an
awesome woman, Olive Davoux.
On date nights my partner and I
like to stop in for oysters and a drink
while we wait for a table to open
up around the block at Early June.

Peppler shopping for produce at the Marché Monge in Paris’s 5th arrondissement

45
46
 Seven-Hour Leg of Lamb
6 S E RV I N G S
In this version of a classic
Provençal recipe, adapted from Peppler’s
book ‘À Table,’ a leg of lamb is cooked
low and slow with a few aromatics, some
wine, and not much else until the meat
is so tender you could eat it with a spoon.
The vibrant green, garlicky persillade
provides a sharp counterpoint to the rich
meat. Leftover lamb is equally good
repurposed in sandwiches with bitter
greens and plenty of mayo.

LAMB
1 4–6-lb. bone-in leg of lamb
Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper
¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil
1 large onion, chopped
5 garlic cloves, lightly crushed
8 sprigs thyme
2 bay leaves
2 cups dry rosé

P E R S I L L A D E A N D ASS E M B LY
1 cup (packed) parsley leaves
with tender stems
6 garlic cloves
À TABLE: RECIPES FOR COOKING + EATING THE FRENCH WAY BY REBEKAH PEPPLER. COPYRIGHT © 2021 BY REBEKAH PEPPLER. PUBLISHED BY CHRONICLE BOOKS.

½ cup extra-virgin olive oil

Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper
FOOD AND PROP STYLING BY REBEKAH PEPPLER. RECIPES FOR CHAMBÉRY CASSIS AND SEVEN-HOUR LEG OF LAMB EXCERPTED WITH PERMISSION FROM

LAMB Place a rack in middle of oven and

preheat to 275°. Season lamb liberally
with salt and pepper. Heat oil in a large
Dutch oven or other heavy ovenproof pot
over medium-high. Cook lamb, turning
occasionally with tongs, until golden
brown, 8–10 minutes; transfer to a plate.
Peppler often sets out a
tray of snacks and sweets
to finish the meal in lieu
of a structured dessert.

Add onion, garlic, thyme sprigs, and

bay leaves to pot. Pour in rosé and bring
to a boil, scraping up any browned bits
with a wooden spoon.
Return lamb to pot, cover with a lid,
and transfer to oven. Roast until meat is
very tender and nearly falling off the
bone, 5–7 hours.

At least
P E R S I L L A D E A N D ASS E M B LY
2 hours after the lamb has been cooking,
pulse parsley and garlic in a food
processor until finely chopped. Pulse in oil
just to combine. Season persillade with
salt and pepper; transfer to a small bowl.
Carefully remove lamb from cooking
liquid and transfer to a platter. (Strain
cooking liquid through a fine-mesh
sieve into a medium bowl and skim fat;
save liquid to use in soups, in braises,
or for making beans.) Serve lamb with
persillade alongside.
D O A H E A D : Persillade can be made
5 hours ahead. Store tightly covered at
room temperature.

47
 I N H I S N E W B O O K , T H E C O O K YO U WA N T T O B E , A N DY BA R AG H A N I
S H A R E S R E C I P E S I N S P I R E D BY H I S T R AV E L S A RO U N D T H E WO R L D — A N D T H E
T I P S A N D T R I C KS H E ’ S P I C KE D U P A LO N G T H E WAY

The Travel Issue BON APPÉTIT

BEEN

THAT
PHOTOGR APHS BY TEX T BY RECIPES BY

Graydon Herriott Alex Beggs Andy Baraghani

I f I ever find myself in Beruit, needing to tell a hot stranger roast chicken and has been known—in the past—to derail a dinner
PHOTOGRAPH BY WOLFGANG KAEHLER/GETTY IMAGES

that I want to kiss them, I can consult a Google doc from
Andy Baraghani. The doc includes useful phrases, museum
musts, and restaurant recs—so I can go find myself a nice
shawarma snack if things don’t (or do) work out with that
stranger. Andy’s travel notes are organized and plentiful. “I take
it seriously,” he says. “Even if you’re not staying in fancy hotels,
traveling is a luxury.” Andy is not a traveler who sleeps in.
He spends weeks researching where to eat, what to do, and
where to shop, tapping his global network of food people and
poring through photos on Yelp, Tripadvisor, and local blogs. “My
research gives me the lay of the land,” he says, “but once I’m
there, I’m open.” He’ll wander into a café to follow the scent of
reservation if he falls temporarily in love with a local.
Andy’s new cookbook, The Cook You Want to Be, is a bright and
lavish collection of recipes inspired by his travels, his Persian family, his
restaurant experience, and his time in Bon Appétit’s test kitchen. I
worked with Andy on the book and got to know his recipes inside and
out. For this story we’ve picked a few that use techniques and flavors
from his travels, which he brings home like souvenirs. Each recipe is
tied to a specific memory of place, from a fragrant fish sauce factory
in Phu Quoc, Vietnam, to the bustling marketplaces of Morocco.
To get your hands on Andy’s extensive travel guides, subscribe to
his newsletter (andybaraghani.substack.com), where he plans on
sharing them alongside new recipes each week.
K U K U K A D O O P. 5 3 Andy’s memory:
Whenever my family goes to Iran,
Iran they bring me back lavashak (a kids’
candy that’s like an extra-jammy
fruit leather in flavors like quince,
unripe grapes, and sour cherry)
along with market spices like saffron
and turmeric—a key flavoring and
coloring agent for classic Iranian
dishes like this one.
Andy’s technique:
My first Persian recipe for Bon Appétit
was kuku sabzi, an herbaceous
egg dish that every Persian family—
and cook—has a spin on. Kuku
kadoo is a zucchini frittata, and I like
to caramelize the zucchini so it gets
sweet and a lot more interesting.
Try taking a wedge and eating it as
a sandwich!
49
 BUT TERED P OTATOES WITH Andy’s memory:
SALTED LEMON In the U.S. we don’t have as big of a
street food culture as other countries,
Morocco and in Morocco I was just going from
one fruit stand to the next. Oranges,
pomegranates, lemons that have
been salted and jarred. I brought
back a hand-carved wooden spoon
and a beautiful embroidered kitchen
towel that I’m too afraid to use.
50
Andy’s technique:
This comforting dish mimics the
fall-apart potatoes that soak up the
savory stewed meat juices in a
Moroccan tagine, but you can also
just think of it as a warm potato
salad. Assertive preserved lemons
mellow out with butter, a method
I like to employ with other fermented
foods (like kimchi) as well.
 Buttered Potatoes With
Salted Lemon
4 S E RV I N G S
These small golden potatoes
are boiled until fluffy, then dressed with
a combination of rich butter and bright
preserved lemon (plus its brine) for
a salty, creamy, punchy side. To make
the dish dairy-free—or to serve it at
room temperature without the fat setting—
swap in ⅓ cup extra-virgin olive oil for
the butter.

2 lb. small waxy potatoes (such as

peewees, fingerlings, or new
potatoes)
Kosher salt
1 preserved lemon, seeds removed,
finely chopped, plus 2 Tbsp.
(or more) brine
½ cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, cut
into pieces
1 small bunch chives or 3 scallions,
thinly sliced
1 cup coarsely chopped dill
Freshly ground black pepper

Place potatoes in a large pot of salted

water and bring to a boil. Cook until
potatoes are very tender and easily
pierced with a paring knife, 10–15
minutes, depending on the size of your
potatoes. Drain and let cool 10 minutes.
Lightly crush potatoes with your
hands (or press with the bottom of a
small bowl); transfer to a serving bowl.
Add preserved lemon, brine, and
butter to bowl with potatoes and toss
until butter is melted and potatoes have
soaked up dressing (they should taste
extremely lemony). Add chives, dill, and
PHOTOGRAPHS: GRAYDON HERRIOTT (PORTRAIT); COURTESY OF ANDY BARAGHANI (TRAVEL PHOTOS).

lots of pepper and toss again evenly

distribute. Taste potatoes and add more
brine and season with more salt and/or
pepper if needed.

Baraghani’s first cookbook,

‘The Cook You Want to Be: Everyday
Recipes to Impress,’ is out April 26. Andy Baraghani (top); a sunny corner in Naples

51
 BIG SHELLS WITH Andy’s memory: Andy’s technique:
SPICY LAMB SAUSAGE Just so, so, so much pasta. In Italy less is more when you have
AND PISTACHIOS
good ingredients. Italian cooks use
just enough sauce to balance the
Italy noodles—don’t expect a big pool at
the bottom of your bowl. Also key:
selecting the right pasta. Big shells
hold strong against in-your-face
sauce, lamb sausage, bitter broccoli
rabe, and bright lemon zest.

PHOTOGRAPH BY DAVE G KELLY/GETTY IMAGES

52
Big Shells With Spicy Lamb
Sausage and Pistachios
6 S E RV I N G S
Jumbo shells should not be
reserved for stuffed pasta dishes only.
Here they meld with spiced lamb sausage
and bracing broccoli rabe that tuck into
every nook and cranny. “The bitter broccoli
rabe cuts through the sausage party,”
Baraghani says, “while raw—not toasted—
pistachios bring a fresh buttery crunch.”
1 bunch broccoli rabe
3 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil
1 lb. spicy lamb or hot Italian pork
sausage, casings removed
12 oz. jumbo shells or paccheri
Kosher salt
4 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
Freshly ground black pepper
4 Tbsp. unsalted butter, cut into pieces
1 tsp. finely grated lemon zest
2 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice
⅓ cup coarsely chopped raw
pistachios
Finely grated Parmesan (for
serving)
Trim thick stems from broccoli rabe and
reserve for another use (like a stir-fry).
Coarsely chop greens and remaining
tender stems; set aside.
Heat oil in a large Dutch oven or other
heavy pot over medium-high. Using your
hands, grab small clumps of sausage
(you’re going for rustic meatballs about
the size of a golf ball) and add to pot.
Cook, turning each piece as it becomes
crusty, until deeply golden brown all
over, about 4 minutes. Using a slotted
spoon, transfer sausage to a plate,
leaving fat behind. Remove pot from heat
and reserve. If sausage has given off a
lot of fat, tip some of it into a bowl; you
want about 2 Tbsp. left in the pot (save
the rest for another use—like frying eggs).
Meanwhile, cook pasta in a large
pot of generously salted boiling water,
stirring occasionally, until just shy
of al dente, about 1 minute less than
package directions (it’ll finish cooking
in the sauce). Drain pasta, reserving
1½ cups pasta cooking liquid.
Set reserved pot with fat over
medium-low heat. Add garlic and cook,
stirring and scraping up any browned
bits, until softened slightly, about
2 minutes. Add reserved broccoli rabe,
season with salt and pepper, and cook,
stirring, until greens are wilted and bright
green, about 4 minutes. Return sausage
to pot along with any juices on the plate.
Break up sausage into smaller but still
coarse pieces with a wooden spoon.
Add butter, pasta, and ¾ cup pasta
cooking liquid to pot. Cook, tossing often
and adding more pasta cooking liquid
a tablespoon or two at a time if needed,
until pasta is coated in sauce, about
3 minutes. Remove from heat, add lemon
zest and lemon juice, and toss to coat.
Divide pasta among bowls and top
with pistachios and Parmesan.
Kuku Kadoo
4 S E RV I N G S Kukus (a type of Persian egg
dish) can be made with a wide variety of
fillings, like potatoes, eggplant, even dates.
This spring-y version pairs tender leeks and
zucchini with earthy turmeric and a serious
scattering of herbs on top—to make it
a full meal, serve each slice with a dollop
of yogurt and a warm flatbread or two.
5 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus more
for drizzling
3 medium zucchini or summer squash
(about 12 oz.), thinly sliced
2 medium leeks, white, pale green,
and dark green parts, halved
lengthwise, coarsely chopped
Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper
¾ tsp. ground turmeric
8 large eggs, beaten to blend
½ cup coarsely chopped dill and/or
parsley
Lemon wedges (for serving)
Heat a large ovenproof nonstick or
cast-iron skillet with a lid over medium.
Combine garlic and ¼ cup oil in pan
and cook, stirring occasionally, until
garlic is golden around the edges, about
2 minutes. Add zucchini and leeks,
season with salt and pepper, and cook,
tossing and stirring occasionally, until
zucchini and leeks are very tender and
almost jammy, 15–17 minutes. Sprinkle
turmeric over and stir until vegetables
are coated.
Drizzle more oil around edges of
skillet, then pour in eggs and season with
salt and pepper. Swirl pan a few times
to incorporate ingredients (also using
a rubber spatula works well here). Cook,
undisturbed, until eggs are set around
edges of pan, 1–2 minutes. Cover and
cook until bottom is set but top is still
a little wet, about 4 minutes.
Heat broiler. Uncover skillet and broil
kuku, watching closely, until top is set and
lightly browned, 2–3 minutes. Remove
skillet from broiler and scatter herbs over
kuku, squeeze juice from lemon wedges
over, and season with more pepper.
Clams With Crispy Ham
and Butter Beans
4 S E RV I N G S
Place your aioli-slathered
toast at the bottom of your bowl before
loading it up with clams, beans, and
crispy Serrano ham—it will soak up the
flavorful broth to ensure you don’t miss
a drop. Says Baraghani: “I don’t even
use utensils for this meal. I get in there
with my hands and end up with clam
broth all over my beard. Worth it.”
¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil
6 slices Serrano ham or prosciutto
3 spring onions or 1 large shallot,
thinly sliced
6 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
2 Tbsp. double-concentrated tomato
paste
2 tsp. smoked paprika
1 cup dry white wine
4 lb. small clams (such as littleneck
or Manila; about 44), scrubbed
1 15-oz. can butter, cannellini, or
other white beans, rinsed
1 cup coarsely chopped parsley
1 cup store-bought or homemade
aioli or mayonnaise
4 thick slices country-style bread,
toasted
Heat oil in a large Dutch oven or other
heavy pot over medium. Arrange half of
ham in pot in a single layer and cook,
turning once or twice, until crisp, about
3 minutes. Using tongs, transfer to paper
towels, leaving any fat in pot behind, and
let drain. Repeat with remaining ham.
Set aside.
Add onions and garlic to same pot
and cook, stirring occasionally, until
slightly softened but without taking on
any color, about 3 minutes. Stir in tomato
paste and paprika and cook, stirring
often, until paste deepens to a dark brick
red, about 2 minutes. Pour in wine and
cook until reduced by half, 2–3 minutes.
Add clams, cover pot, and cook, shaking
pot occasionally, until clams open, 3–7
minutes, depending on their size. Transfer
clams to a large bowl with a slotted
spoon as they open; discard any that
don’t open.
Reduce heat to medium-low. Add
beans to pot and stir, letting beans soak
up some of the clam broth, until warmed
through, 1–2 minutes. Return clams to
pot and remove from heat. Scatter half
of parsley over and toss well.
Slather aioli over toasts and place
in bowls. Ladle clam mixture over toast.
Top with remaining parsley. Crush
reserved crispy ham and scatter over.
53
 CLAMS WITH CRISPY HAM
A N D B U T T E R B E A N S P. 5 3
Spain
Smoky and Crunchy Peas
With Creamy Nuoc Cham
4 S E RV I N G S
This savory side dish comes
together in minutes—and our guess is that
you’ll make the highly craveable blender
sauce again and again. Toasted cashews
add creaminess to classic nuoc cham,
which Baraghani spoons over blistered
peas and tender shoots but is also good
with any other vegetable.
⅔ cup raw cashews
1 red Fresno chile, chopped
2 garlic cloves, crushed
3 Tbsp. fresh lime juice
1 Tbsp. fish sauce
54
Andy’s memory:
Spain is one of my favorite countries
from which to bring back food.
In Madrid I’d stock up on olive oil,
wines, preserved fish, and cured
meat from all the mercados.
2 tsp. granulated sugar
Kosher salt
1 Tbsp. vegetable oil
1 lb. snow peas and/or sugar
snap peas, trimmed, some sliced
some left whole
1 cup pea shoots (tendrils)
Lime wedges (for serving)
Preheat oven to 350°. Toast cashews
on a rimmed baking sheet, tossing
halfway through, until golden brown,
7–9 minutes. Let cool.
Purée cashews, chile, garlic, lime
juice, fish sauce, sugar, and 3 Tbsp.
water in a blender, adding more water
Andy’s technique:
I finally understood why people
pair meat with seafood when I was
in Spain; a little pork brings depth
to briny, light clams (alongside
an acidic white wine). Thinking of
meat as a seasoning, not a main
component, is the key.
as needed to loosen, until smooth. Taste
and season with salt if needed. (Even
though the sauce includes salty fish
sauce, it may need some added salt.)
Set creamy nuoc cham aside.
Heat oil in a large skillet over
medium-high until almost smoking, add
peas, season with salt, and toss to coat
in oil. Cook peas, letting them get
blistered underneath before tossing, until
all of the peas are a little charred but still
have their crunchy texture, 3–4 minutes.
Transfer peas to a platter and spoon
reserved creamy nuoc cham over.
Scatter pea tendrils on top and serve
with lime wedges for squeezing over.
 SMOKY AND CRUNCHY Andy’s memory:
PEAS WITH CREAMY I’ll never forget visiting the Red Boat
NUOC CHAM
fish sauce factory in Phu Quoc,
Vietnam Vietnam. There were rows and rows
of huge barrels, five times bigger
than me, full of fermenting anchovies
turning into glossy, amber sauce. The
salty, funky flavor sunk into my pores.
I was very well-seasoned.
PHOTOGRAPH BY MIK/GETTY IMAGES
Andy’s technique:
Nuoc cham—a dipping sauce of fish
sauce, lime juice, chile, garlic, and
sugar—varies across Vietnam; some
are sweeter, some more savory. This
one is less potent than the average
but creamy thanks to toasted, buttery
cashews. It clings to whatever you’re
dressing. Here that’s snow peas, but
you can also use it on salads, rice,
eggs, or simple stir-fried greens.

SHAWARMA ROAST The memory:
CHICKEN WITH SHALLOTS In Lebanon I ate fast. I remember
AND LEMONS
standing outside a shawarma shop
Lebanon in Beirut with friends who spoke a
chaotic mash-up of Arabic, French,
and English all at once, drinking
a cold Coke, piling as many pickles
onto my chicken shawarma as
possible, and licking the garlicky
toum from my fingers.
PHOTOGRAPH BY ABBOUD AZER/GETTY IMAGES
The technique:
Chefs know that yogurt is a great
tenderizer and it’s a common
marinade throughout the Levant
region. I use a generous amount
to create a crust on this chicken.
The fat in the yogurt also makes an
effective vessel in which spices
can bloom, releasing their aromatics
in the heat of the oven.
FOOD STYLING BY SUE LI. PROP STYLING BY ANETA FLORCZYK. RECIPES FOR BUTTERED POTATOES; CLAMS; AND BIG SHELLS EXCERPTED WITH PERMISSION FROM THE COOK YOU WANT
TO BE: RECIPES TO IMPRESS BY ANDY BARAGHANI. COPYRIGHT © 2022 BY ANDY BARAGHANI. PUBLISHED BY LORENA JONES BOOKS, AN IMPRINT OF PENGUIN RANDOM HOUSE.
Clockwise from left: Baalbek ruins in Lebanon; outside an antique shop in Naples; frizzled onions at a market in Beirut
Shawarma Roast Chicken
With Shallots and Lemons
4 S E RV I N G S
This chicken is coated in a
deeply spiced yogurt made with all the
shawarma heavy hitters—coriander, cumin,
turmeric, pepper, and more—and left to sit
for just 30 minutes (if you’re not in a rush,
it can spend up to 12 hours in the fridge).
Roasting it alongside halved shallots
and sliced lemons means you get jammy
and crispy accompanying bites built right
in, cooked in the rich chicken juices.
1 Tbsp. coriander seeds
1½ tsp. cumin seeds
1½ tsp. black peppercorns
1½ tsp. smoked paprika
¾ tsp. ground turmeric
4 garlic cloves, finely grated
¼ cup whole-milk plain Greek yogurt
or sour cream
4 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil, divided
1 3½–4-lb. whole chicken,
patted dry
Kosher salt
3 medium shallots, halved lengthwise
1 lemon, sliced into ¼"-thick rounds,
seeds removed
4 oregano or thyme sprigs, plus
leaves for serving
Flaky sea salt (for serving)
S P E C I A L E Q U I PM E N T : A spice mill
Finely grind coriander seeds, cumin
seeds, peppercorns, paprika, and
turmeric in a spice mill. Transfer spice
mixture to a small bowl; whisk in garlic,
yogurt, and 2 Tbsp. oil. Generously
season chicken with salt, then smear
yogurt mixture all over. Let sit on a rimmed
baking sheet at room temperature at least
30 minutes, or chill, uncovered, up to
12 hours. If chilling, let chicken sit at room
temperature 30 minutes before roasting.
Preheat oven to 425°. Heat remaining
2 Tbsp. oil in a large skillet over medium-
high. Place chicken, breast side up, in
pan, then nestle shallots, cut side
down, and lemon slices around. Season
shallots and lemon with salt. Tuck in
oregano sprigs and cook, undisturbed,
until shallots are starting to brown,
about 3 minutes.
Pour ½ cup water into pan; transfer
skillet to oven, arranging so legs are
pointing toward back of oven. Roast
until skin has taken on some color,
10–15 minutes. Reduce heat to 325°;
continue to roast until chicken is cooked
through and tender (an instant-read
thermometer inserted into thickest part
of breast should register 155°; it will
climb to 165° as the chicken rests) and
shallots are jammy, 60–70 minutes. Let
rest 15 minutes.
Transfer chicken to a cutting board
and carve as desired. Arrange on
a platter; tuck shallots and lemon slices
around. Spoon juices in pan over,
top with oregano leaves, and sprinkle
with sea salt.
57
 BON
APPÉTIT The Travel Issue PIEDMONT,
I T A LY

C H E F S T E FA N O S E C C H I O F N E W YO R K C I T Y ’ S R E Z D Ô R A F I N D S H I S I N S P I R AT I O N

THE GEMS OF

I
grew up in Texas, but my family is from
Lombardy and Sardinia, so I’ve been
going back and forth to Italy since I
was a kid. I’ve always been attracted to the
food and wine culture of Piedmont. With six
growing seasons more or less instead of
four, the region has incredible produce; the
town of Alba is where white truffles
originated. As you drive up and down the
hills and mountains, you’re surrounded by
green fields and vineyards,with fog often
creeping in. When there’s a thunderstorm
coming, you might even hear cannons early
in the morning or late at night—the bursts of
sound are thought to disperse the rain and
protect the grapes. Because Piedmont has
everything I could ask for in terms of food, I
knew I had to cook there. I looked at a few
restaurants, and I ate at a lot of them.
All’Enoteca stood out; I worked there in late
2014. It’s run by chef Davide Palluda, who
became a mentor to me. What changed my
life in Piedmont is its chefs’ dedication to
detail. There’s tradition behind it: They’re

58
 AS TOLD TO
Bettina Makalintal
respecting the diets and practices that have
been built for hundreds of years. You can
bring a contemporary eye, but what I
learned from Davide—and from Piedmont as
a whole—is that you have to know tradition
before you can innovate. I run my own
restaurant in New York now, but I go back to
the region four times a year.
My thing has always been to stay away
from the tourist spots and find the little
gems. I get the best recommendations
drinking around tables with friends, wine
producers, and other chefs. This osteria
does this; this trattoria does that. I made a
huge list of all their picks and then I started
eating at them. Here I’ll let you in on some
PHOTOGR APHS BY
Paola + Murray
of my favorite places to eat and drink in
hopes you get as excited about Piedmont
as I am. And if you can’t visit, I’ll share
recipes inspired by the region and its
restaurants to bring a piece of Piedmont
to your home kitchen. Classic dishes, good
wine—it rarely gets better.
— ST E FA N O S E CC H I
 Bagna Cauda With Spring
Vegetables
4 S E RV I N G S
Slowly heating anchovies
and garlic over a double boiler turns
them soft and jammy so you can easily
smash them into a paste. The dressing will
separate and settle rather than form a
cohesive emulsion, so it’s a good moment
to use your best olive oil.
½ cup extra-virgin olive oil
14 garlic cloves
12 olive-oil-packed anchovy fillets
(from at least a 2-oz. tin)
Chilled crunchy raw produce
(such as radishes, carrots,
baby lettuces, fennel, romanesco,
endive, and/or unripe pears;
for serving)
Pour water into a small pot or large
saucepan to come 2" up the sides;
bring to a simmer. Combine oil, garlic,
and anchovies in a bowl that will fit
snugly on top of pot without touching
the water. Set over simmering water
and cook, without stirring but adjusting
heat as needed so only a few bubbles
are breaking on the surface of the oil,
until mixture is hot and garlic is soft,
75–85 minutes. Remove pan from heat
with the bowl still set on top. Let cool
15 minutes, then smash garlic with
a fork or wooden spoon and mix well
with anchovies.
Transfer warm bagna cauda to a
small bowl and serve with produce
ALBERTO BERNASCONI
alongside for dipping.
PHOTOGRAPH BY
Porcini Gnocchi With
Butter Sauce
4 S E RV I N G S
For the best and lightest
gnocchi, Secchi suggests using slightly
older potatoes: “They have less moisture
content, so you can add less flour
and keep your gnocchi from getting
gummy.” Roasting the potatoes on
a wire rack also helps eliminate
moisture, allowing steam to escape
from every bit of the skins. As for forming
the gnocchi, look no further than
your flatware drawer. “You can use
a gnocchi board,” Secchi says, “but
my nonna always used a fork.”
6 medium Yukon Gold potatoes
(about 2 lb.)
½ oz. dried porcini mushrooms
(about ⅓ cup)
1⅔ cups (208 g) Italian 00 flour or
all-purpose flour
¼ tsp. kosher salt, plus more
1 large egg, beaten to blend
½ cup (1 stick) unsalted butter,
cut into small pieces
12 sage leaves
Finely grated Parmesan
(for serving)
Place rack in middle of oven; preheat to
350°. Poke holes all over potatoes with
a fork and place on a wire rack set
inside a large rimmed baking sheet.
Roast potatoes until flesh is easily
pierced with a fork, 45–60 minutes.
Let sit until just cool enough to handle,
about 15 minutes.
Peel potatoes and pass through a
potato ricer (or use the bottom of a glass
to push through a fine-mesh sieve). Place
in a large bowl and let cool completely.
Meanwhile, pulse dried mushrooms
in a spice mill or a high-speed blender
to a fine powder. Transfer to a medium
bowl and add flour and ¼ tsp. salt;
whisk to combine.
Add dry ingredients and egg to bowl
with potatoes and fold together. Then,
using your hands, form into a single
mass. Turn out onto a work surface and
knead until smooth.
Cut dough into 6 portions. Working
with 1 portion at a time and covering
remaining portions with plastic wrap
while you work, roll each portion into a
rope about ½" wide. Cut into ½"-long
pieces and roll each piece along fork to
form ridges. Arrange gnocchi in a single
layer on a rimmed baking sheet (line
with parchment paper if making ahead).
Cook gnocchi in a large pot of boiling
salted water until they float to the
surface, about 3 minutes (4 minutes if
cooking from frozen). Drain, reserving
½ cup cooking liquid.
While the gnocchi is cooking, heat
butter in a medium high-sided skillet
over medium, stirring often, until it
foams, then browns, 5–8 minutes.
Add sage leaves and ¼ cup reserved
pasta cooking liquid, tilting the pan
away from you to protect yourself
from spattering. Once spattering has
settled down, swirl liquid in pan, then
add gnocchi and cook, tossing and
adding remaining pasta cooking liquid
a little at a time (you might not need
all of it) until sauce is combined
and creamy and pasta is well coated,
about 1 minute.
Divide pasta among shallow bowls
and top with Parmesan.
D O A H E A D : Gnocchi can be formed
3 days ahead. Tightly wrap baking sheet
and freeze.
61
 Secchi’ s
1

PIEDMONT
“If you’re going to explore the real Piedmont,” Secchi says,
you’ll find yourself winding through roads “small enough
that it can be hard to get two cars by at the same time.” (He’s
happy to wait and let the Italians fly by.) That caution will be
rewarded—from modern Piedmontese to nonna’s cooking,
these are the places that keep Secchi coming back for more.

“What changed
my life in Piedmont
is its chefs’ dedication
to detail.”

62
 6
1. ALL’ENOTECA, CANALE
The food at the high-end All’Enoteca, where Secchi worked
for a year, keeps getting better, he says. The way chef Davide
Palluda plays with the line between classic and contemporary
continues to impress him. A recent meal included vitello tonnato
reimagined as a one-bite course: The Piedmontese sauce of tuna
and capers was shaped into a peanut, served on a cracker instead
of veal. “You’re expecting a peanut, but it’s tonnato sauce,” Secchi
says. “It was a mind-blowing meal.”

2. OSTERIA DA GEMMA, RODDINO

In a space that resembles a cozy living room, Osteria da Gemma
immerses guests in local tradition. There’s no menu here—you get
what chef Gemma Boeri and her cooks feel like making that day,
served family-style. “This is how life should be: You have friends,
and you’re making pasta together,” Secchi muses. (Piedmont’s
dedication to fresh pasta, heavier on egg yolks than in other parts of
the country, is a big reason why he loves the region.) This spot gets
busy, so Secchi advises making a reservation. The food is worth the
wait—and the mountain drive.

3. IL CENTRO, PRIOCCA
Under chef Elide Mollo, the menu at this century-old restaurant
puts modern touches on time-honored Piedmontese cuisine.
Secchi’s favorite dish is the red bell pepper, cut in half and done
sottaceto—pickled in a vinegar-based mixture (so secret that only
Mollo knows the recipe) for at least four months—and served with
anchovies and olive oil. “It embodies Italian food,” Secchi says. “It’s
so simple but executed with the best ingredients possible.” Il Centro
also has a stellar wine list, Secchi adds.

4. OSTERIA DELLE AIE, CASTELLINALDO D’ALBA

The wine at this intimate restaurant comes in magnums.
“That magnum comes with a caveat: You have to share the wine with
all the other tables,” Secchi explains. “That’s just how things work,
and it’s an excellent idea,” allowing you to try many wines in a
single visit. A dolcetto table wine paired particularly well with thin
strands of tajarin pasta, glazed with meat ragù, he recalls. Simple
things shine here, like risotto with Castelmagno cheese, into which
you mix a dark orange egg yolk. Don’t worry when your bottle is
whisked away; another will soon follow.

5. VILLA TIBOLDI, CANALE

4 5 Perched amid Malvirà winery’s vineyard is Villa Tiboldi, an
18th-century farmhouse. It’s a place so special that Secchi is almost
reluctant to share it. Be glad he did. With only 10 rooms, Villa Tiboldi
feels like a family home. With its own restaurant and pool, the villa is
an all-in-one escape—with the best cantinas of La Morra, Barolo, and
Barbaresco just a 30-minute drive away. For a hands-on approach,
you can help pick grapes (“Hard to do, but an incredible
experience,” Secchi says).

6. TRATTORIA MARSUPINO 1901, BRIAGLIA

The Marsupino family has run their eponymous trattoria in the small
town of Briaglia since—you guessed it—1901. With brothers Matteo
and Luca now in charge of the kitchen and the stocked wine cellar,
Marsupino highlights the younger generation’s freer approach to the
region’s cuisine. Get the fried tripe. Crispy, delicate, and not too
chewy, “it melts in the mouth,” Secchi says. Upstairs is lodging in the
style of agriturismo, the Italian practice of booking overnight stays
on farms and other agricultural sites.

P H OTO G R A P H S BY A L B E R TO B E R N AS C O N I
 P O R C I N I G N O C C H I W I T H B U T T E R S A U C E P. 61
The misty forests of Piedmont are perfect for mushroom foraging. Fresh porcinis pair with
gnocchi at Il Centro; this recipe is an ode to that dish, but it uses dried porcinis, which are
easier to find around the world. They’re ground into powder and mixed into the dough.

64
 B A G N A C A U D A W I T H S P R I N G V E G E T A B L E S P. 61
This warm anchovy dip has been made in Piedmont since at least the 16th century. Though
American versions often include cream, Secchi keeps it classic: nothing more than
anchovies, olive oil, and garlic—paired with the season’s snappiest raw vegetables.

65
Asparagus With Parmesan
Fonduta
4 S E RV I N G S
In this twist on a classic
fonduta, Secchi uses the salted water left
over from blanching asparagus to
emulsify the sauce instead of cream or
butter. The heat from the water gently
“cooks” the egg yolks and melts the
Parmesan, forming a rich, velvety blanket
to coat your vegetables.

1 large bunch asparagus,

woody ends trimmed
3 large egg yolks
3½ oz. Parmesan, finely grated
3 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil

Cook asparagus in a large pot of boiling

generously salted water until dark green
and just crisp-tender, about 30 seconds
for pencil-thin stalks and up to 2½ minutes
for thicker stalks. Using tongs, immediately
transfer asparagus to a large bowl of ice
water; let sit 30 seconds. Transfer to a
kitchen towel and pat dry; arrange on a
platter. Measure 3 Tbsp. cooking liquid
from pot and set aside in a small bowl.
Blend egg yolks, Parmesan, and oil in
a blender on low speed, scraping down
sides as needed, until well combined.
Increase speed to high and, with motor
running, gradually drizzle in reserved hot
cooking liquid; blend until smooth and A S PA R AG U S W I T H PA R M E SA N F O N D U TA
emulsified. Immediately pour fonduta Wild asparagus grows abundantly in Northern Italy and is often paired with
over asparagus. cheese sauce in Piedmont. “When asparagus is coming up, it’s typically still
colder at night, and the fonduta is nice and warming,” Secchi says.

Cherry and Dark Chocolate

Crostata
8 S E RV I N G S
A sprinkling of chopped
chocolate under the cherry filling in this
tart makes every bite both rich and fruity.
Serve with a glass of amaro for the
ultimate end to any meal.
DOUGH
2 cups (250 g) Italian 00 flour or
all-purpose flour
½ cup (100 g) granulated sugar
1 tsp. finely grated lemon zest
1 tsp. baking powder
½ tsp. Diamond Crystal or ¼ tsp.
Morton kosher salt
11 Tbsp. chilled unsalted butter, cut
into small pieces
1 large egg
1 large egg yolk
½ tsp. vanilla extract
F I L L I N G A N D ASS E M B LY
3⅓ cups fresh (or frozen) sweet
cherries (about 20 oz.), pitted
3 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice
2 tsp. cornstarch
Big pinch of kosher salt
⅓ cup (67 g) sugar, plus more for
sprinkling
2 oz. dark chocolate (at least 70%
cacao), coarsely chopped
1 large egg, beaten to blend
A 9"- or
S P E C I A L E Q U I PM E N T :
10"-diameter tart pan with removable
bottom
DOUGH Pulse flour, sugar, lemon zest,
baking powder, and salt in a food
processor to combine. Add butter and
pulse until mixture is the consistency of
wet sand. Add egg, egg yolk, and
vanilla and pulse again to combine. The
mixture should still look crumbly but hold
together when squeezed in your hand.
Turn out onto a surface and smash and
pat into a flat disk. Wrap in plastic and
chill at least 1 hour.
D O A H E A D : Dough can be made
2 days ahead. Keep chilled.
Cook cherries,
F I L L I N G A N D ASS E M B LY
lemon juice, cornstarch, salt, and ⅓ cup
(67 g) sugar in a medium saucepan over
medium heat, stirring occasionally, until
cherries have burst but still have some
body and juices have thickened, 6–8
minutes. Let cool at least 15 minutes.
Place a rack in middle of oven; preheat
to 350°. Roll out dough to about ¼" thick.
Transfer to tart pan; lift up dough, allowing
it to slump into corners, then press lightly
into pan. Trim excess so dough is flush
with rim. Set extra dough aside.
Scatter chocolate across crust, then top
with filling. Reroll reserved dough; cut
into strips or cut out into other shapes. Use
strips to make a lattice top or decorate
with shapes as desired. Brush dough with
egg and sprinkle with sugar. Bake until
golden brown, 20–25 minutes. Let cool
at least 15 minutes to let filling set.
D O A H E A D : Filling can be made 1 day
ahead; cover and chill. Crostata can be
baked 4 days ahead; let cool completely.
Store covered at room temperature.
FOOD STYLING BY REBECCA JURKEVICH. PROP STYLING BY MARINA BEVILACQUA.

CHERRY AND DARK CHOCOL ATE CROSTATA

For a staff meal at All’Enoteca, Secchi recalls Chef Palluda making a tart of dark
chocolate and cherries—many varieties of which can be found in Piedmont in the spring
and summer. “It was one of the most amazing desserts I’d ever had,” he says.

67
 TEX T & RECIPES BY PHOTOGR APHS BY

Zaynab Issa & Mehreen Karim Emma Fishman

ENJOYED OFTEN DURING RAMADAN AFTER A LONG DAY OF FASTING. WE LOVE THEM FOLDED
INTO COOKIE DOUGH, CARAMELIZED IN A HOT SKILLET, OR MELTED INTO A HEART Y BRAISE.

69
 SPICE-CRUSTED
CARROTS WITH DATE
AND HERB SALAD
 Date
Spice-Crusted Carrots With
Date and Herb Salad THE FARMER
AND THE
4 – 6 S E RV I N G S
These crisp-tender
carrots get their texture from high-heat
roasting and a shawarma-style spice
blend. Dates add sweetness and chew
to an herby-spicy salad that works Alya Haq, owner of Nature’s Anthem
with anything from pan-fried chicken farm in California’s Coachella
to roasted cauliflower. Valley, didn’t realize how much
dates meant to her until she left her
CARROTS childhood home in the United
¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil Arab Emirates. No packaged
2 tsp. Diamond Crystal or 1¼ tsp. supermarket date could compare to
Morton kosher salt the supple Medjools and Barhis
½ tsp. ground cinnamon she’d grown up eating. A few
½ tsp. ground coriander decades later she found herself in
½ tsp. ground cumin the Coachella Valley, surrounded
½ tsp. ground turmeric by lusher-than-life date farms that
½ tsp. sweet paprika produced fruit just as delicious as
¼ tsp. freshly ground black pepper Haq remembered from Dubai.
⅛ tsp. ground cardamom One serendipitous farm purchase
⅛ tsp. ground cloves and many, many harvests later, she
2 garlic cloves, finely grated now distributes over a million
1½ lb. medium carrots, tops trimmed pounds of dates each year. Order a
to ½", scrubbed, halved lengthwise two-pound box ($20) of Medjools at
naturesanthem.com.
S A L A D A N D ASS E M B LY
2 Tbsp. (or more) fresh lemon juice
1 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil
1 tsp. Diamond Crystal or ½ tsp.
Morton kosher salt, divided
1 small red onion, thinly sliced
7 Medjool dates, pitted, coarsely
chopped
2 jalapeños, seeds removed, coarsely
chopped
1 cup coarsely chopped tender herbs
(such as cilantro, dill, or parsley)
1 cup labneh or plain whole-milk
Greek yogurt

C A R R O T S Place a rack in middle of oven;

preheat to 450°. Stir oil, salt, cinnamon,
coriander, cumin, turmeric, paprika,
pepper, cardamom, cloves, and garlic
in a small bowl to combine.
Toss carrots with oil mixture on a
large rimmed baking sheet to coat. Roast
until carrots are crisp-tender and deeply
browned, 15–20 minutes. Let cool.

While the carrots

S A L A D A N D ASS E M B LY
are cooling, whisk lemon juice, oil, and
½ tsp. Diamond Crystal or ¼ tsp. Morton
kosher salt in a medium bowl. Add red
onion, dates, jalapeños, and herbs and
toss to coat. Taste salad and add more
lemon juice if needed.
Stir labneh and remaining ½ tsp.
Diamond Crystal or ¼ tsp. Morton
kosher salt in a small bowl. From top: Alya Haq, owner of Nature’s Anthem farm; date palm leaves have
To serve, spread labneh on a platter; many uses, from basket-weaving to hat-making; Haq also grows Deglet Noor
top with carrots. Scatter salad over. dates, which are typically smaller and less sweet.

71
Date
DEETS
NOT ALL DATES ARE DRIED!
THEY’RE SOFT AND
WRINKLY EVEN AT PEAK
RIPENESS.

THE WORD DATE

COMES FROM
DAKTYLOS, GREEK
FOR FINGER.

DATES HAVE EXISTED

FOR AT LEAST
50 MILLION YEARS.

THERE ARE OVER 400

VARIETIES OF DATES,
ALL WITH DIFFERENT
FLAVORS, TEXTURES,
AND SIZES.

DATES ARE MENTIONED

22 TIMES IN THE QURAN
AS WELL AS IN THE
BIBLE AND THE TORAH.

From top: Sweet Medjools and sour rhubarb are a perfect pair; dates ready to be packaged;
what’s left after harvest will get shredded and returned to the soil; a bare date bunch
 D AT E - A N D - S OY-
BRAISED
SHORT RIBS
Date-and-Soy-Braised
Short Ribs
4 – 6 S E RV I N G S
Inspired by the soy and
vinegar notes of Filipino adobo, these
short ribs are the pinnacle of comfort. The
Medjool dates melt away while the short
ribs braise until fall-apart tender, lending
depth and just-enough sweetness to
this savory dish. We topped the ribs with
a spring-y snap pea salad for crunch
and freshness, but feel free to switch it up
to your preference—smashed cucumbers
with cilantro would be just as delicious.
3–4 lb. English-style bone-in beef
short ribs, cut into 3" segments
Kosher salt
2 Tbsp. vegetable oil, divided
1 large onion, thinly sliced
10 garlic cloves, smashed
2 Tbsp. double-concentrated tomato
paste
8 Medjool dates, pitted, coarsely
chopped
3 dried bay leaves
¾ cup soy sauce
½ cup distilled white vinegar
1 Tbsp. freshly cracked black pepper
1 ½" piece ginger, scrubbed, cut into
matchsticks
1½ cups sugar snap peas, thinly sliced
on a diagonal
⅓ cup coarsely chopped mint
¾ tsp. crushed red pepper flakes
1 Tbsp. plus 1½ tsp. fresh lime juice
Cooked white rice and lime wedges
(for serving)
Season short ribs liberally with salt. Let sit
at room temperature 1 hour.
Heat 1 Tbsp. oil in a large Dutch oven
over medium-high. Working in batches
if needed, cook ribs, turning occasionally
and reducing heat if needed to prevent
scorching, until browned all over, 8–12
minutes. Transfer to a plate. Pour off all
but 1 Tbsp. fat from pot.
Set pot back over medium-high heat
and pour in remaining 1 Tbsp. oil. Cook
onion and garlic, stirring occasionally,
until onion is softened, about 5 minutes.
Add tomato paste and cook, stirring
often, until paste begins to separate and
stick to bottom of pot, about 3 minutes.
Stir in dates, bay leaves, soy sauce,
vinegar, pepper, and 4 cups water.
Return short ribs to pot and turn to
coat. Bring liquid to a simmer, then
reduce heat and cover partially with
a lid. Simmer gently, turning ribs
occasionally and skimming fat from
surface, until meat is very tender,
3½–4½ hours.
Transfer short ribs to a platter. If
needed, bring braising liquid to a boil
and cook until thick enough to coat a
spoon. Taste and season with more salt if
needed. Remove and discard bay leaves.
Toss ginger, sugar snap peas, mint,
and red pepper flakes in a medium bowl
to combine; season with salt. Drizzle lime
juice over salad and toss to coat.
Spoon sauce over short ribs; scatter
salad over. Serve with rice and lime
wedges alongside.
D O A H E A D : Short ribs can be braised
3 days ahead. Let cool; cover and chill.
Reheat, covered, over medium-low.
73
Charred Asparagus and Dates
With Goat Cheese
4 S E RV I N G S
Dates are packed with
natural sugars that caramelize quickly in
a hot skillet. They pair especially well
with bright spring produce: quick-seared
asparagus, fresh mint, and sliced radishes.
2 watermelon radishes or 3 red
radishes, trimmed, thinly sliced
Zest and juice of 1 lemon
½ tsp. Diamond Crystal or ¼ tsp.
Morton kosher salt, plus more
2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil, divided,
plus more for drizzling
1 bunch asparagus (about 1 lb.),
trimmed
74
1 tsp. freshly ground black pepper
¼ tsp. crushed red pepper flakes
8 Medjool dates, pitted, halved
lengthwise
3 oz. fresh goat cheese
2 Tbsp. coarsely chopped mint
Toss radishes, lemon zest and juice, and
½ tsp. Diamond Crystal or ¼ tsp. Morton
kosher salt in a small bowl; set aside.
Heat 1 Tbsp. oil in a large nonstick
skillet over medium-high. Working in
batches if needed, cook asparagus in
a single layer, undisturbed, until slightly
charred underneath, about 2 minutes.
Shake pan to turn asparagus and
cook, shaking pan occasionally, until
CHARRED
A S PA R AG U S
AND DATES
WITH GOAT
CHEESE
asparagus is crisp-tender and charred
in spots, about 4 minutes. Sprinkle with
black pepper and red pepper flakes;
season with salt. Transfer asparagus to
a platter.
Wipe out skillet. Heat remaining
1 Tbsp. oil over medium. Cook dates,
stirring occasionally, until charred
in spots and beginning to stick to pan,
about 3 minutes.
Scatter dates over asparagus, then
crumble goat cheese over. Top with mint
and reserved radishes, then drizzle with
oil and any liquid from radish bowl.
Date and Pink Peppercorn
Pasta
4 – 6 S E RV I N G S
The pink peppercorn
mafaldini from Lilia restaurant in Brooklyn
inspired this recipe, which celebrates the
cosmic radiance of fruity pink peppercorn
married with sharp cheese. Chopped
dates balance those intense flavors with
subtle sweetness.
12 oz. mafaldine or tagliatelle pasta
Kosher salt
1½ tsp. freshly ground black pepper
3 Tbsp. freshly ground pink pepper,
divided
4 Tbsp. unsalted butter, divided
4 oz. Pecorino Romano, finely
grated, plus more for serving
10 Medjool dates, pitted, finely
chopped
1 Tbsp. finely grated lemon zest
1 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice
Flaky sea salt
Cook pasta in a large pot of boiling
salted water, stirring occasionally, until
al dente. Drain, reserving 2 cups pasta
cooking liquid.
Toast black pepper and 2 Tbsp.
pink pepper in a dry large skillet over
medium, shaking often, until fragrant,
about 30 seconds. Add 3 Tbsp. butter;
cook, swirling pan, until butter foams,
then begins to brown, about 2 minutes.
Stir in 4 oz. Pecorino and 1 cup pasta
cooking liquid until combined. Add
pasta, dates, and ½ cup pasta cooking
liquid; cook, tossing often and adding
more cooking liquid if needed, until
sauce is glossy and coats pasta, about
2 minutes. Add lemon juice and
remaining 1 Tbsp. butter; toss to combine.
Divide pasta among plates or shallow
bowls and top with lemon zest, more
Pecorino, and remaining 1 Tbsp. pink
pepper. Season with sea salt.
 DATE AND PINK
P E P P E R C O R N PA S TA
 WHIPPED
RICOT TA TOAST
WITH DATE
AND RHUBARB
COMPOTE
 Whipped Ricotta Toast With
Date and Rhubarb Compote
4 S E RV I N G S
Caramelly Medjool dates
are ideal for mellowing rhubarb’s
astringent tartness, bringing earthy flavor
along with sweetness to the mix. Serve
this compote over crunchy fried
sourdough slathered with whipped ricotta
or try it with pancakes, oatmeal, or yogurt
to get your rhubarb fix.

5 Medjool dates, pitted, chopped

⅛ tsp. ground cardamom
½ tsp. kosher salt, divided
2 medium rhubarb stalks (about
4 oz.), chopped
1 cup whole-milk fresh ricotta
3 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil, divided
4 1"-thick slices country-style
sourdough bread
2 Tbsp. coarsely chopped raw
pistachios
Freshly cracked black pepper

Bring dates, cardamom, ¼ tsp. salt,

and 1 cup water to a boil in a small
saucepan. Cook, stirring often, until
dates are very soft, about 5 minutes. Add
rhubarb and cook, stirring occasionally,
until rhubarb is soft and compote
has thickened, 7–10 minutes. Let cool.
Meanwhile, pulse ricotta and
remaining ¼ tsp. salt in a food processor
to combine. With motor running, stream
in 1 Tbsp. oil; process until ricotta is CHEWY DATE
ultrasmooth and airy, about 1 minute. AND DARK
(Or, whisk ricotta, salt, and oil in a CHOCOL ATE
medium bowl until smooth and light.) COOKIES
Heat 1 Tbsp. oil in a large nonstick
skillet over medium. Add 2 slices of
bread; cook until golden brown and
crisp underneath, about 4 minutes. 1 tsp. Diamond Crystal or ½ tsp. combined, about 45 seconds. Reduce
Transfer to plates and turn fried side Morton kosher salt speed to low and beat in dry ingredients,
up. Repeat with remaining 1 Tbsp. oil 2 large eggs chopped dates, and three quarters of
and remaining bread. ½ cup extra-virgin olive oil chocolate, scraping down sides of bowl
Spread ricotta on toasts and top with ¼ cup well-mixed tahini as needed, just until combined, about
compote. Scatter pistachios over; season 2 tsp. vanilla extract 30 seconds. Cover dough and chill at
FOOD STYLING BY PEARL JONES. PROP STYLING BY SUMMER MOORE

with pepper.
Chewy Date and Dark
Chocolate Cookies
M A K E S 16
These crispy-edged, chewy-
centered wonders deliver ultimate cookie
texture but with extraordinary savory-
sweet flavor thanks to olive oil and tahini.
Heads-up: The dough needs to chill for at
least 3 hours, so plan accordingly.
2¼ cups (281 g) all-purpose flour
1 tsp. baking soda
1 tsp. cornstarch
¾ cup (150 g) granulated sugar
¾ cup (150 g) light brown sugar
9 Medjool dates, pitted, 5 chopped,
4 quartered lengthwise
8 oz. bittersweet chocolate
(70% cacao), chopped, divided
Flaky sea salt
Whisk flour, baking soda, cornstarch,
and salt in a medium bowl.
Using an electric mixer, beat eggs,
oil, tahini, and vanilla in a large bowl
on medium speed until creamy and
emulsified, about 2 minutes. Beat in
granulated sugar and brown sugar until
least 3 hours and up to 12 hours.
Place a rack in middle of oven;
preheat to 375°. Using a #10 cookie
scoop (about 6 Tbsp.), portion out dough
onto 2 parchment-lined baking sheets,
spacing 3" apart. Top with remaining
chocolate and press gently to adhere.
Gently press 1 date quarter into top
of each cookie. Sprinkle with sea salt.
Working with one baking sheet at
a time, bake cookies until golden brown
around the edges, 13–15 minutes.
Let cookies cool 5 minutes on baking
sheets, then transfer to wire racks and
let cool completely.

77
 T H I S R A S P B E R RY- F I L L E D C H I F F O N C A KE I S I N S P I R E D BY T H E L AY E R E D
F RU I T A N D C R E A M C A KE S T H AT F O O D E D I TO R S H I L PA U S KO KOV I C F O U N D
I N JA PA N E S E BA KE R I E S — L I G H T, A I RY, A N D D E L I C AT E LY S W E E T

The Travel Issue

BON JAPANE SE -
APPÉTIT INSPIRED

BERRY FLUFFY
Raspberry Cream Cake
12 S E RV I N G S
PHOTOGR APH BY And since chiffon cake contains oil and

Emma Fishman
Unlike fresh berries, freeze- no butter, it remains tender even straight
out of the fridge. Using ungreased regular
(not nonstick) cake pans helps the batter
cling to the sides and rise tall as it bakes.
 CAKE
4 large eggs, room temperature,
separated
1 tsp. Diamond Crystal or ½ tsp.
Morton kosher salt
½ tsp. cream of tartar
1 cup (200 g) sugar, divided
⅓ cup vegetable oil
1 tsp. vanilla extract
1 cup (125 g) cake flour
½ tsp. baking powder
ASS E M B LY
1 cup (200 g) sugar
1½ cups (37 g) freeze-dried
raspberries; plus more crushed
for serving (optional)
3 cups heavy cream
1 tsp. vanilla extract
1 tsp. Diamond Crystal or ½ tsp.
Morton kosher salt
¼ cup (80 g) raspberry jam
2 cups (170 g) fresh raspberries
S P E C I A L E Q U I PM E N T : A pastry bag and
a ½"-diameter tip
CAKE Position a rack in middle of oven;
preheat to 350°. Line two 8"-diameter
cake pans with parchment paper rounds
(do not grease). Beat egg whites, salt,
cream of tartar, and ½ cup (100 g) sugar
in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the
whisk attachment on medium-low speed
until egg whites are broken up, about
PROP STYLING BY SUMMER MOORE.
FOOD STYLING BY PEARL JONES.
30 seconds. Increase speed to medium-
high and beat until meringue is glossy
and holds firm peaks, 8–10 minutes.
Whisk egg yolks and remaining ½ cup
(100 g) sugar by hand in a large bowl
until pale and well combined, about
2 minutes. Whisk in oil, vanilla, and ⅓
cup room-temperature water. Sift flour
and baking powder over and whisk
vigorously to combine.
Add one fourth of meringue to egg
yolk mixture and mix thoroughly to
incorporate (this will lighten the batter).
Add remaining meringue in 3 batches,
gently folding after each addition until
only a few streaks of meringue remain
(err on the side of mixing slightly less
rather than more to keep batter billowy).
Divide batter evenly between
prepared pans and gently smooth
surface. Bake cakes 15 minutes. Reduce
oven temperature to 325° and continue
baking until golden brown and tops
spring back when gently pressed, 35–40
minutes more. Remove from oven; invert
pans onto a wire rack. Let cakes cool in
pans (cooling them upside down reduces
shrinkage), 60–70 minutes. Turn cakes
over and run an offset spatula around
sides of cakes to loosen, then invert cakes
onto wire rack. Peel away parchment.
Finely grind sugar and
ASS E M B LY
1½ cups (37 g) freeze-dried raspberries
in a spice mill or food processor (if using
food processor, sift powder through a
fine-mesh sieve after to remove seeds).
Transfer to the clean bowl of a stand
mixer fitted with the whisk attachment;
add cream, vanilla, and salt and beat on
medium-high speed until firm peaks form,
5–7 minutes.
Stir jam in a small bowl to loosen,
then gently fold in fresh raspberries.
Place 1 cake on a cake platter or
large plate. Scoop a heaping cupful of
raspberry cream on top; spread evenly
with offset spatula. Spoon berry mixture
on top of cream, leaving a 1" border
around the edges (this will prevent
berries from spilling over the sides).
Place second cake layer on top. Spoon
a heaping ½ cup raspberry cream into
pastry bag fitted with tip. Frost top and
sides of cake with raspberry cream still in
bowl, then pipe dollops of raspberry
cream around edges of top of cake.
Chill cake, uncovered, at least 2 hours.
To serve, sprinkle top of cake with
crushed freeze-dried raspberries if
desired. Slice cake with a serrated knife,
wiping clean between cuts.
D O A H E A D : Cake can be baked 1 day
ahead; store tightly wrapped at room
temperature, or freeze up to 1 week.
If frozen, thaw in refrigerator overnight
before using. Cake (without crushed
raspberry topping) can be
assembled 1 day ahead;
cover loosely and chill.
79
THE NEW YORKER
RADIO HOUR
 S T E P-BY- TIPS &
STEPS TRICKS

Almost everything you need to know (and nothing you don ’t)

Unless specifically marked

decaf, all true tea has caffeine.
But herbal teas, like this lemon
verbena, come from different
plants and are the exception.

Tea for Two

Everyone
The world’s most popular flavored beverage
comes from a single plant. It’s also thousands
ILLUSTRATIONS BY TIM LAHAN (OPENER)

of years old, simple to brew (yet complex to

sip), and probably languishing in your pantry
right now. There’s a lot more to tea than big
companies would have you believe—and a lot
fewer rules than Downton Abbey suggests

by M A X FA L KOW I T Z

P H O T O G R A P H S BY A L L I E H O L L O WAY A P R I L 2 0 2 2 – 81
 Basically

1
O K AY, S O W H A T I S T E A ?
Whether it’s floral Earl Grey or roasty hojicha, all tea begins with the
shrub Camellia sinensis. It’s native to a subtropical stretch of land between
present-day India and China that also includes areas of Vietnam, Laos,
Thailand, and Myanmar. When manipulated by skilled hands, the young
leaves of that plant can produce a delicious caffeinated brew. Much of
that transformation is due to oxidation, the same reaction responsible
for the browning on a sliced apple. There are hundreds, even thousands,
of distinct tea styles, but most fall into one of these six categories:

Green White Oolong

If you apply high heat to a tea leaf within a
few hours of picking, you’ll halt oxidation,
thereby preserving its fresh green flavor
and vegetal aroma. Green teas are almost
completely unoxidized. They tend to taste,
well, green. This is one of the oldest types
of tea and, up until a few hundred years
ago, the most commonly consumed.
These teas are all about simplicity. Leaves
destined for white tea are simply picked
and left to wither, sometimes with an oven
or fan but without any elaborate
processing. Since they aren’t exposed to
high heat, they do oxidize a bit while
drying, creating a floral aroma and
creamy texture distinct from green teas.
More oxidized than green teas but
less oxidized than blacks, oolongs are
withered, rolled, squeezed, and roasted
to yield complex flavors ranging from
butter to hickory. All good tea can
be steeped multiple times; oolongs are
known for their prismatic character that
changes between steeps.

Black Post-fermented Herbal

Black tea leaves are nearly 100% oxidized,
which creates hints of rich fruit and malt
and a crisp tannic backbone. Black tea
production began in China; it’s now the tea
of choice in the Americas, Europe, and parts
of Asia and Africa. (FYI, black teas don’t
necessarily have more caffeine than greens.)
Though uncommon outside of China, this
style includes some of the most expensive
and beloved teas, like pu-erh and liu bao.
Post-fermented teas undergo oxidation
and bacterial and fungal fermentation,
creating earthy, gut-soothing brews. They’re
often aged for years or even decades.
Brews made from chamomile, mint,
rooibos, and roasted grains aren’t
technically teas as they’re not made from
the leaves of the tea plant. They’re
sometimes called tisanes, though if you’d
rather call them tea colloquially, no one’s
gonna stop you! More on these in No. 8.

82 – APRIL 2022

Paracit y Glass
Teapot, $23;
amazon.com
2 Cool it down
UPGRADE FROM TEA BAGS
For economy and consistency, tea bags are generally
filled with chopped leaves and powdery particles that
steep quickly for a bold but one-dimensional product.
So if you’re looking to explore the incredible world of
traditional teas, upgrade to loose leaf. While high-
quality tea is available at every price point, you won’t
often see it cramped into bags—those whole leaves
need room to grow. See No. 5 for the simplest—and
most versatile—brewing equipment.
3
Get the good stuff
Skip the supermarket: The best teas
come from dedicated tea sellers who
work directly with farmers. There’s
never been a better time to buy tea
online—here are some retailers to try.
•Camellia Sinensis Its expansive
collection includes great sample sets
for the tea curious.
•Kettl If you love green tea, matcha,
and gorgeous ceramics, this
Japanese tea specialist is for you.
•Eco-Cha Based in central Taiwan,
it focuses on the country’s famous—
and hugely varied—oolongs.
•In Pursuit of Tea Its extensive
selection of classic teas come from
China, Japan, and the Himalayas.
•White2Tea It specializes in post-
fermented pu-erh from Yunnan,
China, as well as intriguing white
and black teas.
•Happy Earth Tea Company
Its long list is headlined by single-
estate teas from Darjeeling.
4
Quality leaves make for iced tea so
sweet and refreshing you won’t even
need sugar. If you have only five
minutes, make near-instant iced tea:
Brew double-concentrated tea, then
pour it over an equal amount of ice
(in weight or volume). But if you have
a little longer, try this ambient-brew
method from Postcard Teas in London.
Steep your tea leaves in room-
temperature water for an hour on the
counter, then strain and refrigerate
until the brew is as cold as you’d like
it. This method extracts more dynamic
flavor than cold-brewing that’s started
in the fridge—and it’s faster too.
APRIL 2022 – 83
 Basically , MEET CHEES
TEA E

Popularized in
China and Taiwan,
cheese tea contrasts
refreshing iced tea
with a creamy
foam top. To make
that cloudlike layer
at home, whip
Philadelphia cream
cheese with milk
or heavy cream and
salt until billowy.
Sponsored

5
KEEP THE GEAR SIMPLE
When it comes to equipment, An electric kettle
Fellow and Bonavita both make
it’s better to build a collection based great kettles with gooseneck
on what you actually need than to spouts for precise pours. They
can also heat water to specific
buy a prefab set with matching cups temps for various tea types
or filters that you may eventually set and keep it hot for resteeping.
Stagg EKG Electric Kettle,
aside. Start with these two essentials: $159; fellowproducts.com
A simple pot
The most versatile vessels have
filters built into the spouts so that
the leaves can unfurl without
constraints. A Japanese-style
kyusu combines form and
function—these beautiful pots
can brew nearly any tea.
Gyoko Kyusu #3, $120; kettl.co

6 7
There’s something
in the water
Since tea is mostly water, the
quality of that water will affect
the taste of your tea. As a rule
of thumb, if you wouldn’t drink
your local tap water on its
own, filter it before steeping.
Temperature matters too, but
since most high-quality teas
Steep, steep, and
steep again
Quality whole-leaf teas are
made to be resteeped. Some
last two or three brews; others,
including many oolongs and
fermented pu-erhs, can run for
a dozen. To do it:
•Shake out every last drop
of liquid from your previous
8 9
Fresh herb
Herbal teas take many forms
beyond the common mint
and chamomile. Try linden,
chrysanthemum, and
elderflower for a naturally
honeyed and floral cup. Greek
mountain tea and lemon balm
are great for brisk refreshment.
If you can handle some
Tea or cha?
The word for tea typically comes
from one of two roots—té or
cha (e.g., thé in French, chai in
Hindi)—and this linguistic pattern
is key to learning how it first
arrived in a region. As Nikhil
Sonnad reported for Quartz,
countries that traded tea over
land use cha (the word for tea in
FOOD STYLING BY TANEKA MORRIS

can handle a big range, steep
according to your tastes. In
general, brewing with lower
temperatures like 170° will
yield sweeter and more
delicate tasting notes, while
water closer to boiling will
brew bolder, with a richer
texture and more astringency.
pot to keep the next round
from turning bitter.
•Refill your pot with water
heated to your choice
of brewing temperature.
•Add 30–60 seconds to
your previous steep time
and repeat.
caffeine, yaupon and guayusa
(two members of the holly
family native to the Americas)
yield a snappy tea-like brew.
And if you’re a die-hard coffee
person, roasted grain teas like
barley, buckwheat, Job’s tears,
and corn silk from Korea and
Japan make for toasty brews.
Mandarin, it spread across the
Silk Road), while countries that
traded by boat use té (the local
word for tea in coastal Fujian
and Taiwan). That explains why
most Western European and
African languages use té, while
those of Asia and East Africa
tend to use cha.

84 – APRIL 2022
 Design advice for real life.
INTERIOR BY WELCOME PROJECTS; PHOTO BY LAURE JOLIET

Renovation guides.
Before-and-after inspiration.
Material sources.
Everything you need to make
a home your own—from the
editors of Architectural Digest.

@getclever archdigest.com/clever
recipe index

What makes
chocolate chip
cookies even
better? Dates!
P. 77

APPETIZERS Whipped Ricotta MEAT Gochujang-Sesame Kuku Kadoo p. 53 Smoky and Crunchy
Bagna Cauda With Toast With Date and Big Shells With Spicy Noodles p. 20 Porcini Gnocchi With Peas With Creamy

PHOTOGRAPH BY EMMA FISHMAN. FOOD STYLING BY PEARL JONES. PROP STYLING BY SUMMER MOORE.
Spring Vegetables Rhubarb Compote Lamb Sausage and Porcini Gnocchi With Butter Sauce p. 61 Nuoc Cham p. 54
p. 61 p. 77 Pistachios p. 53 Butter Sauce p. 61 Spice-Crusted
Date-and-Soy- VEGETABLES, Carrots With Date
Citrus-Marinated SALAD POULTRY SIDE DISHES
Olives p. 43 Braised Short Ribs and Herb Salad p. 71
Fried Lemon and p. 73 Crispy Chicken With Asparagus With
Eggs Rémoulade Radish Salad p. 44 Za’atar-Olive Rice Parmesan Fonduta DESSERTS
p.43 Seven-Hour Leg of p. 12
MAIN COURSES Lamb p. 47 p. 66 Cherry and Dark
BEVERAGE Shawarma Roast Buttered Potatoes Chocolate Crostata
SEAFOOD Skirt Steak With Chicken With p. 66
Chambéry Cassis Clams With Crispy Scallion Thecha p. 18 Shallots and Lemons
With Salted Lemon
p. 43 p. 51 Chewy Date and
Ham and Butter PASTA AND p. 57 Dark Chocolate
Beans p. 53 NOODLES Charred Asparagus
BREAKFAST VEGE TARIAN and Dates With Cookies p. 77
Herby Dutch Baby Herby Dutch Baby Big Shells With Spicy Date and Pink Goat Cheese p. 74 Raspberry Cream
With Smoked With Smoked Lamb Sausage and Peppercorn Pasta Cake p. 78
Salmon p. 14 Pistachios p. 53 Fried Lemon and
Salmon p. 14 p. 74 Radish Salad p. 44
Kuku Kadoo p. 53 Date and Pink Gochujang-Sesame
Peppercorn Pasta New Potatoes With
Noodles p. 20 Mimolette p. 44
p. 74

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86 – APRIL 2022
Photograph / Jennifer Chase

P O D C A S T

P O D C A S T

N E W E P I S O D E S A D D E D W E E K LY
LISTEN ON SPOTIF Y / APPLE PODCASTS
Margaret Atwood’s Dream Dinner Party
The author of The Handmaid’s Tale and a new book of essays, Burning Questions, sets a dramatic table,
replete with family china, a crystal ball, and a main course that may require a hammer
Margaret Atwood knows there’s no dinner part y secret weapon like a Le Creuset Round Dutch Oven (starting at $250; lecreuset.com).
S H E ’S B R O A D LY known
for her critically acclaimed
novels (17 of them!), including
The Handmaid’s Tale and
Alias Grace, but Margaret
Atwood is also a poet, essayist,
cartoonist, environmental
activist, and inventor (of the
LongPen, a robotic arm that
paved the way for remote
document signing). Here she
tells whom she’d invite to her
dream dinner party and why.
— D AW N D AV I S
You get to host any three
people, fictional or real, dead
or alive. Who’s invited?
I’ll stick to dead people. If I fail
to invite some living people,
they’d be very annoyed. (Not
to say other dead people
wouldn’t be. I’d expect to hear
from Samuel Johnson and
Oscar Wilde, who prided
themselves on their dinner
conversation.) But here’s my
invite list: Graeme Gibson,
my partner for many years;
he loved a dinner party. He
88 – APRIL 2022
always cooked the main course
and I did the starters, salad,
and dessert. Charlotte Brontë
and Toni Morrison would be
my other guests. Both of them
wrote novels with uncanny,
weird stuff in them. Jane Eyre
hears a spirit voice calling her
over time and space and she
answers it. I reviewed Beloved
in The New York Times and
have always been interested in
Morrison’s technically varied
way of approaching subjects.
So pairing her with Brontë, who
gave us the first open-ended
novel, would be fascinating,
especially since one of them is
from the 19th century and the
other is from the 20th.
What’s on the menu?
We’d begin with a salad that
involves oranges, avocados,
and endive. Then Graeme
would make this chicken dish
that involves putting a lot of
legs and thighs, a huge amount
of garlic, an onion, a bouquet
garni, and some cloves into a
big Le Creuset. You make
a dough out of flour, water,
salt, and oil, roll it out like
a sausage, and wrap it around
the pot’s rim. As it bakes, it
forms a seal and the chicken
steams in all that garlic.
Do you bring it to the table
in a dramatic fashion?
The dough gets quite hard.
It’s a ceremonial moment when
you crack it with a hammer.
We’d serve it with potatoes
and green beans. For dessert
I’d make the fluffy baked lemon
custard from The Joy of Cooking.
I’d set out white china with
red trim (which belonged
to Graeme’s grandfather),
candles, and either some
florals or a crystal ball—which,
yes, I have in my possession.
The conversation centers
around one essay in your new
book, Burning Questions—
which is it?
These days it would probably
be one of the environmental
I L LU ST R AT I O N BY L AU R E N TA M A K I
essays. Maybe the one on
Rachel Carson and how
prescient she is. When
it comes to talking about the
environment, I’m interested
in solutions. If you want some
hope, go to drawdown.org,
which has a lot of data and
ideas about how to draw down
greenhouse gases from the
atmosphere.
Who’s the better dining
companion, a scientist
or a poet?
I know quite a lot about poets,
so for a learning experience,
I’d pick scientists—but it
depends what kind. Not
physicists. They can’t really
explain to other people what
they’re doing. I could hang
out with ornithologists. They’re
somewhat generalists because
they have to know something
about habitat, bird biology,
migration patterns. And they
need to go off the beaten track
to find birds, so they’re often
quite adventurous.
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