Experience Guide Series

Experience Istanbul 2022

By Len Rutledge
 Experience Istanbul
Len Rutledge
Copyright Len Rutledge 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019, 2020, 2021, 2022
All rights reserved

10th Edition
December 2021

Published by Northpress
17 Saltwater Drive, Toomulla Beach, Australia 4816
Table of Contents
About the Author
Introduction
Chapter 1. Introducing Istanbul
Chapter 2. Exploring the Old City
Chapter 3. Experience the New City
Chapter 4. See the Asian Shore
Chapter 5. Activities and Tours
Chapter 6. A Brief History
Chapter 7. Getting Around
Chapter 8. Things to Consider
Chapter 9. Where and What to Eat
Chapter 10. Shopping
Chapter 11. Where to Stay

Photographs by Phensri Rutledge

13 full-color maps
About the Author.
Len Rutledge has been travel writing for 40 years. During that time, he has written thousands of
newspaper articles, numerous magazine pieces, more than a thousand web reviews and around
50 travel guide books. He has worked with Pelican Publishing, Viking Penguin, Berlitz, the
Rough Guide, and the Nile Guide amongst others.
Along the way, he has started a newspaper, a travel magazine, a Visitor and TV Guide, and
completed a PhD in tourism. His travels have taken him to more than 100 countries and his
writings have collected a PATA award, an ASEAN award, an IgoUgo Hall of Fame award, and
other recognition.
You can follow him on Facebook as Len.Rutledge and as experience_guides, and as
len.rutledge and experience_guides on Instagram. You can read more about the author on his
web site www.LenRutledge.com

About the Photographer

Phensri Rutledge was born in Thailand but has lived in Australia for many years. For 30 years
her photographs have appeared in a range of guidebooks and in newspapers and magazines in
Europe, North America, Asia, and Australia. Her travels have taken her to all continents except
Antarctica through over 80 countries.
She contributes to several travel web sites and has a number of popular social media sites You
can follow her Facebook page as World Travel Photography and as phensri_focus on
Instagram.

Also check out our Youtube channel where we cover some other destinations. Please watch,
LIKE and SUBSCRIBE. https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCX5HUmGP1lR2aoscn3O8P2Q
EXPERIENCE GUIDES
2021 was a horror year for many people and Experience Guides was affected significantly.
One obvious disappointment was the lack of travel opportunities which meant that we were
unable to visit most of the countries we write about and hence were unable to personally
update our 2022 books. We have overcome this by using the resources of national and local
tourist offices, other tourism operators, personal contacts and general web sources to bring
this book up to date.
Unfortunately, with on-going problems in the tourism and travel industries, further
closures and changes will occur in the coming months so please confirm with individual
entries before deciding to visit. We look forward to a better 2022 and wish readers happy
travels.

Experience Travel Guides, the Guides the Travel Industry trust, are unique in that they are
designed to be read in the same way as a novel. They are a valuable resource for those planning
to visit a destination, a source of information for those just interested in finding out more about a
country or city, and a pleasure for those armchair travelers who just enjoy a good read.
Experience Istanbul highlights the more rewarding parts of the city so that those planning a
visit can quickly and efficiently plan an itinerary. We locate and detail the best places to see and
the top experiences to enjoy, and recommend accommodation options in all areas. All are based
on the personal experience of the author.
We capture the personality and the underlying cultural and historical significance of the city and
the surrounding areas. We explore the wonderful mosques, churches, and museums of the Old
City, the shops, restaurants, and nightspots of the Beyoğlu area, the fascinating Asian Shore
where tourism is very secondary to normal life, and the Bosphorus which for some is the city’s
unsung highlight.
Suggestions are also made for day and extended tours outside the city. In the process, we meet
friendly, helpful people, buy fascinating handicrafts, eat tantalizing cuisine, and enjoy charming
hospitality.
As more people travel to new destinations, guidebooks grow in importance. Hard-copy books,
however, are often out of date before they are printed and users are frustrated by experiences
contrary to what is described. This book has no such problem as it was updated in December
2021 and can be updated as often as necessary to keep it right up to date.
Some people believe the internet has all the answers these days but be aware that many internet
sites provide out of date or inaccurate information and many are extremely biased. We have done
everything possible to ensure our information is up to date and we will continue to update the
book as necessary. We also accept no advertising or sponsorship so can give an honest opinion
about everything we see.
Please realize, however, that no guidebook can substitute for common sense. Istanbul is a great
place for exploring on foot so you need to pack clothing, footwear, and other items appropriate
for doing just that. Istanbul is summer can be very hot and humid while in winter it can get very
cold at night.
Don’t be fooled by the outward appearance of a modern Western city. It is still very much a
Middle East Muslim city so you should be aware of the customs and traditions associated with
that culture and religion, particularly when visiting mosques.
We believe that every place in the world provides unique experiences which make a visit
worthwhile. Istanbul has great experiences at every turn. We encourage you to explore, meet the
locals, and grab each new opportunity as it arises. Traveling is fun but always do it with care and
compassion. In that way your Istanbul experience can provide lifetime memories.
Costs in this book
Most costs are given in Turkish lira designated as TL. Here is a link to a popular conversion site.
https://www.xe.com/currency/try-turkish-lira

Maps
Maps are provided throughout the book detailing places of interest. In addition, Google maps are
always useful so here is the appropriate link. https://www.google.com./maps/
Chapter 1 - Introducing ISTANBUL

This was the first city guide in the Experience Series for good reasons. Istanbul is one of my
favorite cities in the world. It took me many years to reach here but now I return every
opportunity I can.
It is common to say the city is caught between Europe and Asia and while this is correct, it is just
a small part of the picture. The experiences here are like nowhere else on earth. Where else does
the haunting, age-old invocation to worship from a hundred minarets mix easily with clanging
tram bells, western rap music, and the noise of thousands of hawkers?

In this city of 15 million people, the sounds and sights overwhelm the senses and I am left
bewildered but excited. It is a seething metropolis that is a chaotic meeting place of ancient and
modern from both east and west.
This is undoubtedly one of the world’s great cities. It’s exotic, cosmopolitan, surprisingly
friendly, and culturally stunning. While strongly Muslim, I see Western-dressed kids in flashy
cocktail bars and women in head-to-toe chadors walking in and out of Starbucks and
McDonalds.
I look around. Within sight are mosques, churches, palaces, Roman ruins, markets, and amazing
views over the Bosporus. This was the center of the world and capital of both Christian and
Islamic empires for some 1600 years, and it shows.
I remember the first time my wife and I visited here as though it was yesterday. We started by
paying homage to all the marvelous sights of Old Istanbul. We visited the 1500-year-old Hagia
Sophia, once the greatest church in the world, then a mosque, a museum, and now a mosque
again. For 1000 years this had the largest dome and was the largest enclosed space on the planet.
It is stunning.
Next was the Topkapi Palace, the center of power for the Ottoman Empire for 400 years. The
many buildings are arranged around a series of courtyards on a spectacular site.
The Hippodrome is the site of a 2000-year-old Roman stadium. Little remains but it now forms a
park and a fitting entrance to the huge Blue Mosque. Size is what impresses here and I found the
interior, except for its 20,000 blue tiles, a little gloomy and sterile.

Blue Mosque
The same certainly couldn’t be said about the Grand Bazaar. This bewildering home to 4000
shops was colorful, confusing, and utterly fascinating. We looked at carpets, clothing, jewelry,
and ceramics without buying. We were greeted with cups of tea and graciousness completely
unexpected. I remember we retired exhausted but satisfied we were starting to feel the rhythm of
the city.
Next day, we caught a tram to Kabataş and a funicular to Taksim Square. This is the heart of
’new’ Istanbul. Wide streets radiate through affluent suburbs. Attractive, fashionably dressed
women patronize up-market shops and boutiques.
We walked down pedestrianized Istiklal Caddesi past restaurants, bars, international stores, and
foreign consulates. We stopped for coffee, baklava, Turkish delight, and a chance to watch the
passing parade. Narrow laneways, lined with little shops disappeared downhill.
Later, we caught a ferry along the Bosporus and watched as the mansions drifted by. I was
reminded that Istanbul is said to have more millionaires than any city but New York, Moscow,
and London. The villages could be on the Mediterranean or perhaps somewhere in New England
but then something ‘Turkish’ appeared to remind me where I was.
That night, my wife and I went to dinner with a local family as part of an Urban Adventure run
by Intrepid. There were just us, the family of 3, and a guide. The family spoke no English but our
bilingual guide translated. We played with the two-year-old daughter then sat on the floor to
enjoy a typical Turkish meal.
The home-cooked food was delicious and the atmosphere warm and relaxed. We had brought
some fresh baklava as a small gift and we all enjoyed it for dessert. We felt very privileged to get
this insight into their lives and it will long remain a highlight of Istanbul. We recommend this to
everyone.
Afterwards, we walked the cobbled back-streets of the area with the guide and dropped into a
local tea house. While drinking tea, sampling a water-pipe, playing backgammon, and enjoying
views over the Marmara Sea, we discussed Turkey and its quest for membership of the European
Union.
I concluded that while many in Istanbul see a future in Europe, much of the rest of the country
and the government is reluctant to give up its Eastern values and roots.
Subsequent visits have solidified this view. Many people in Istanbul know that the country is not
changing as fast as it talks. In fact, there are signs that the Islamist government is heading in a
different direction and this is causing some social unrest.
Istanbul takes time to explore. Sure, the highlights can be seen in a few days, but the longer you
stay the more there seems to be to see and experience. It may almost take a lifetime.
Currency
Costs in this book are in Turkish lira. The lira has steadily lost value in the past couple of years
so conversion rates are not steady. At the end of 2021 there were 9.5 lira to one US dollar, 11 lira
to one euro, and 13.2 lira to one British pound.
Chapter 2 - Explore the OLD CITY

Istanbul has been a ‘world city’ for millenniums so there is no better place to start than where it
all began. Historians tell us that there was a Mycenaean settlement here from around the 13th
century BC but little is known of this. We do know that Byzas the Megarian founded a Greek
settlement here in the 7th century BC and this led to the name Byzantium.
The town became an important center of trade over the next thousand years and in the 4th century
AD, Constantine chose it as the site for the new capital of the Roman Empire. Thus,
Constantinople was born. The city had access to the natural harbor of the Golden Horn and it
effectively controlled the Bosphorus.
Constantinople grew to become a great city, protected by water on three sides and by a great wall
on the other. Grand buildings were built and the city remained safe until the beginning of the 13th
century when the Christian crusaders sacked and destroyed much of it. The Byzantines finally
regained control but the city fell to an Ottoman siege in 1453.
The name Istanbul was used in Turkish alongside the original Constantinople, during the period of
Ottoman rule. This period saw a rebuilding of the city with new palaces and many mosques and
these are today some of the great attractions in the Old City. Many of these are in the
Sultanahmet area.
You will undoubtedly want to visit several museums in this city even if you are not normally a
‘museum-kind-of person’. Something to consider is the Museum Pass which is available from
some hotels and also the ticket offices at Hagia Sophia, Topkapi Palace, and the Chora Church
(see below).
The pass is valid for 5 days from your first museum visit and covers Topkapi Palace Museum,
Hagia Irene Museum, Turkish & Islamic Arts Museum, Istanbul Archaeology Museums, Chora
Museum, Great Palace Mosaics Museum, Museum of the History of Science and Technology in
Islam, Yildiz Palace Museum, Galata Mevlevi Lodge Museum, Rumeli Fortress Museum, and
Fethiye Museum.
If you visit all these museums the pass saves you considerable money but it also means you can
avoid the ticket queues and this can save considerable time. The cost has risen from 85 TL in
November 2018 to 360 TL at November 2021 so you need to visit at least half of the above
museums to make it worthwhile.
There is so much to see that it can be difficult to know where to start. Come with my wife and
me as we explore some of the major sights pretty much in the way we did it the very first time.
There is no better place to start exploring than at Hagia Sophia (officially the Holy Hagia
Sophia Grand Mosque) (https://ayasofyacamii.gov.tr/) (Address: Aya Sofya Meydanı 1,
Sultanahmet), a magnificent building completed in 537. This was the greatest Christian church in
the world until 1453 when it was converted into a mosque. In 1935 it became a museum but in
2020 it was converted again to a mosque. It is a place that everyone ‘must visit’ when in
Istanbul.
This was not the first religious building on this site. It is believed that the first church was built
on the site of a pagan temple. The first Hagia Sophia was inaugurated in 360AD on the orders of
Constantine the Great. This first church was a wooden-roofed basilica with a nave flanked by
several aisles preceded by an atrium. This church was largely burned down in 404 during riots.
A second church was inaugurated in 405AD. It consisted of standard Byzantine architectural
elements; an atrium, probably a porch, and a basilica with galleries. This second church,
however, was completely destroyed during the tumult of the Nika Revolt in 532AD. Today,
some marble blocks from this second church can be seen in the courtyard of the present mosque.
Only a short time after the destruction of the second church, Justinian the Great set about
creating a new building which would be monumental. To do this he commissioned Anthemius of
Tralles and the Elder Isidore of Miletus to build a third church.
This was considered to be a very strange choice as neither is known to have any building
experience before Hagia Sophia. Anthemius was a mathematician and physicist, and Isidore was
a professor of geometry and mechanics.
The construction was a mammoth undertaking. Yellow stone was brought from Syria, porphyry
from Egypt, and Hellenic Columns from the Artemis Temple in Ephesus. More than ten
thousand people worked for the construction and the third church was inaugurated by the
emperor in 537AD. The mosaics were finished later on, during the reign of Justin II (565-578).
From the outside, the present building looks large and impressive but it is crowded in by walls
and other buildings so it is difficult to get a good look at the complete exterior. Partly because of
this, it is the interior with its huge dome that visitors find so magnificent.
The original dome collapsed twenty years after the church was completed so a new higher dome
was constructed and the external buttresses strengthened. This dome is supported by 40 massive
ribs which are held by hidden columns. The effect is stunning and no rival was attempted
anywhere in the world for the next thousand years.
Sultan Abdulmecid ordered a major restoration of Hagia Sophia in 1847 when it was a mosque.
The massive dome and vaults were consolidated, old chandeliers were replaced by new ones,
huge circular framed discs were hung on columns, and interior and exterior decorations were
revised.
Two further major repairs were carried out is more recent years when it was a museum. The
copper roof had developed cracks so the roof and dome were repaired between 1997 and 2002.
All ornaments and interior marble pieces were cleaned and renovated again during the restoration
in 2012.
Hagia Sophia was beautifully decorated with mosaics during the Byzantine period. In an act of
vandalism during the fourth crusade in 1204, Roman Catholic Crusaders sacked many Byzantine
buildings including Hagia Sophia. Many beautiful mosaics were removed and shipped to Venice.
After the Ottoman occupation of Constantinople in 1453, with the transition of Hagia Sophia into
a mosque, most of the remaining mosaics were covered with whitewash or plaster.
As we enter the first area, we see a brilliant mosaic of Christ as Pantocrator above the largest
door, so we don’t rush through but linger in the passage way. Then it is on into the main space.
Most of the millions of gold mosaic tiles which cover the mosque's interior have recently been
restored and the result is something quite spectacular.
There are several Islamic touches from the building’s first time as a mosque. Most noticeable are
the large 19th century medallions inscribed with gilt Arabic letters with the names of Allah,
Mohammed, Ali, and Abu Bakr.
Then there is the elevated kiosk screened from public view so the sultan could come and pray
without being seen, and the ornate library on the west wall built in the 18th century.
The altar, the bells, and other Christian items were all removed when the church was converted
into a mosque by Sultan Mehmed II. Many Christian mosaics and frescoes were plastered over at
the same time. Unfortunately, I have not had the opportunity to visit since the building has once
again become a working mosque but the Turkish government has said that "Christian icons"
within it would continue to be protected,
After wandering around the main area admiring the different colored marble and staring upwards
at the dome and the huge chandeliers, we go upstairs to see some of the impressive mosaics. We
reach here by a switch-back ramp which itself is quite impressive. The mosaics were developed
at different times and, unfortunately, most have been damaged over the years but there is still
plenty to see.
Allow a couple of hours to see the highlights of the building. It is undoubtedly one of the most
impressive places in Istanbul. The crowds can be horrific during the peak summer season, with
long lines to get tickets, so I advise you to arrive early.
We leave Hagia Sophia through a magnificent 2000-year-old bronze gate and enter Sultanahmet
Park which is buzzing with activity.
Hagia Sophia is now open every day. It can be visited between 9:00 a.m. and 5:00 p.m. except
for prayer hours. The visiting hours are the same as the neighboring Blue Mosque. Entrance is
free of charge.
The Hagia Sophia has once again become a symbol, this time of the very contemporary battle for
the soul of Turkey between Islamists and secularists. In this case the Islamists have won.
While in this area, it is worth stopping at Caférağa-Medresesi (Küçük Ayasofya Mah.
Akburçak Sokak No 11) (https://tkhv.org.tr/caferaga-medresesi/). This was an educational
institution in the Ottoman period, and Caférağa is still a center for educating craftspeople and the
public on traditional Turkish handicrafts.
In 1989, the Turkish Cultural Service Foundation changed Caférağa into a center with 15
classrooms/exhibition rooms, a big saloon, and a garden where traditional Turkish handicrafts
such as marbling, calligraphy, ceramics, jewelry and so forth are taught, made, and sold.
You can browse without hassle and enjoy a coffee in the shade. Art and craft classes are still held
in the main hall which was designed by the famous architect Sinan. Besides joining workshops
or buying some of the products, you can visit exhibits or enjoy a drink in a tranquil atmosphere.
This is a hidden gem just steps away from Hagia Sophia.
Across the park, the Sultan Ahmet Camii beckons but we decide to go there via the
Hippodrome. This was the site of chariot races for the Byzantine emperors and the cultural
focus of the empire. During the Byzantine period, court ceremonies, coronations, and parades
also took place at the hippodrome, making it the sporting and social center of Byzantine life for
over 1000 years.
Its historical significance predates just about everything else in Old Istanbul as it was constructed
by the Roman emperor in 200 AD. It was originally surrounded by viewing galleries but much
has changed since the glory years. The emperors and the Ottoman sultans erected statues and
other monuments here from time to time and some remain today.
The first one we see is of recent vintage but it is of some aesthetic merit. This is the Kaiser
Wilhelm Fountain in the form of a stone gazebo at the northern end. Further along, there is the
pink marble Obelisk of Theodosius which was carved in Egypt 3500 years ago and brought to
Istanbul in the 4th century AD.
Next, we see the 2500-year-old Spiral or Serpentine Column which comes from Delphi and
originally had three bronze serpents’ heads but these have been vandalized in the past few
hundred years. Then there is the 4th century Rough-Stone Obelisk or Column of Constantine.

The Hippodrome provides the best approach to the Blue Mosque (Sultan Ahmet Camii)
(http://www.sultanahmetcamii.org/). The mosque was built in the 17th century by Sultan Ahmet I
and he planned to build something that would surpass the nearby Aya Sofya (Hagia Sophia).
With the instantly recognized exterior and its six minarets, he has achieved that but the interior
falls far short.
The building incorporates some Byzantine elements with traditional Islamic architecture and is
considered to be the last great mosque of the classical period of the Ottoman Empire. It was built
on the site of the palace of the Byzantine emperors, facing the Hagia Sophia which at that time
was the most venerated mosque in Istanbul, and it is entered from the hippodrome, a site of great
symbolic significance.
From the Hippodrome, the domes billow upward as we enter into the huge courtyard. This is the
same size as the mosque itself and is surrounded by a portico with thirty small domes. From
here, the full grandeur of the exterior is revealed. Like many other mosques, when it was built it
also included a tomb of the founder, a madrassa, and a hospice.
As we are visitors rather than worshippers, we have to enter the building itself from a side door
and admission is controlled to limit crowds. There is no charge to enter. Women must wear a
head covering and free coverings are available at the entrance. We remove our shoes and carry
them in a plastic bag. This is a working mosque, so it's closed to non-worshippers for about 90
minutes during the five daily prayer times.
The interior space is huge but somewhat dark, and the four huge pillars which support the dome
appear to us to be oversized and almost overpowering. There are 260 windows, which were once
filled with 17th century-glass but sadly, this has been lost and replaced with inferior replicas.
The mosque derives its popular name from the twenty thousand or so blue Iznik tiles that adorn
its upper interior but many areas are difficult to see properly. That may be a good thing because
the demand for tiles was so great at the time that the quality varied considerably. The tiles at
lower levels are traditional in design, while at the gallery level their design has representations of
flowers, fruit, and cypresses.
The lower walls and arches are covered with arabesque stenciling. The floors are covered with
carpets, which are regularly replaced as they wear out. It is impressive but perhaps not as
spectacular as many visitors expect. Nevertheless, it is another of the ‘must visit’ places in the
city.
The Great Palace Mosaic Museum (https://muze.gov.tr/muze-detay?
SectionId=MOZ01&DistId=MOZ) , which is just behind the Blue Mosque, is difficult to find
within the Arasta Bazaar, but history and art buffs will think the hunt is worthwhile.
Not much remains of the Great Palace of Constantinople, built in 330AD and home to
Byzantine’s emperors for over 800 years, however, excavations in the 1950s uncovered a
stunning mosaic pavement and this now forms the center-point of the museum.
The mosaics have been dated to 450-550AD and they are magnificent. Only a part of the 180 m2
of the mosaic area is revealed. The average dimension of the mosaic stones is 5 mm and they
consist of limestone, earthenware, and colored stones.
There are bears, monkeys, griffins and chimeras, fruit, floral scenes, and humans engaged in
hunting, fighting, and playing in the patterns. You can see depictions of an elephant and lion
fight, a goose herding children, a child feeding his donkey, and a young girl carrying a pot. The
museum does an excellent job of describing the mosaics with English information. The ticket
price is 35 TL (November 2021).
Before leaving this area, it is worth seeing the Little Hagia Sophia Mosque
(https://www.islamiclandmarks.com/turkey/little-hagia-sophia-mosque). This is downhill on
Küçük Ayasofya Camii Sokak, southwest from the Blue Mosque. It was built in the 530s as the
Church of Saints Sergius and Bacchus.
Many consider it to be a trial model for the great Hagia Sophia church because it is from the
same era and has a broad dome. It probably acquired this name when it was converted to a
mosque around the year 1500.
Extensive restoration work was completed in 2007. The current Ottoman-style decoration inside
no doubt bears little resemblance to what the building looked like in Byzantine times. Reports
talk about “gold mosaics glimmering in the dome and colored marble glowing on the walls”.
The irregular octagonal floor plan and the beautiful red and green marble columns are from
earlier times. Note the band of marble with Greek letters which comes from the original church.
Returning to the Hippodrome tempts us to visit the Museum of Turkish and Islamic Art (At
Meydanı Sok. No: 46 İbrahim Paşa Sarayı, just across from the Blue Mosque)
(https://muze.gen.tr/muze-detay/tiem) . This contains an excellent collection of Islamic artifacts
in a stone building that is itself a historic monument as the only privately-owned mansion to have
survived from the 16th century.
The building you see today is a mere fragment of the original which is believed to have stretched
right along the Hippodrome. Today, the museum is home to a stunning collection of items not
just from Turkey but also from other parts of the Islamic world. They are displayed in roughly
chronological order, starting with items acquired from the palace of the Abbasid ruler Caliph
Mutasim in Samarra (modern-day Iraq).
Don’t miss the early 13th century door taken from the Ulu Cami in Cizre, and the beautiful items
from Safavid and Qajar Iran including lovely mirrors. The Turkish rooms display choice pieces
from the Seljuq, Beylik, and Ottoman eras.
Finally, there are the carpets, the pride of the museum and some of the finest relics of the art
from its earliest days. It is open every day from 9 a.m. to 7 p.m. Admission is 60 TL (November
2021).
We take a short diversion to the Basilica Cistern (Yerebatan Saray)
(http://yerebatansarnici.com/) (Address: Alemdar Mh., Şeftali Sk No:6, Fatih), one of several
underground structures buried amongst the foundations of the Old City. This 1500-year-old
underground water reservoir is a wonderful escape from the outside heat and we linger here.
Extensive restoration and improvement works have been undertaken recently.
This immense underground reservoir was built during the reign of Emperor Justinian I in 532AD
to meet the water needs of the Great Palace and surrounding buildings, but apparently it hasn’t
been used for this purpose for the past 500 years.
After 1453, it was used briefly to supply water to Topkapi Palace where the sultans resided.
However, the Ottomans preferred running water over still water and established their own water
facilities in the city.
The cistern has 4.8-m-high brick walls, and the floor is covered by bricks, and plastered by a
thick layer of brick dust mortar for water tightness. Now the structure has been restored and
opened as a unique attraction.
The cistern is huge and impressive with the roof supported by 336 columns arranged in rows. We
had been told about two columns supported on upside-down Medusa heads and we find them at
the far left-hand corner of the reservoir at the end of one of the raised wooden walkways.
They most likely came from a temple to Apollo and they were probably placed in that position as
an indication of the Emperor's contempt for the old religion.
The cistern held water coming from the Belgrad Forest, 19 kilometers from the city. The water
was transported to the city center via the Valens Aqueduct and the Mağlova Aqueduct, which
were built by Emperor Justinian I.
There is still a small amount of water in the reservoir and there are carp swimming around. (It
was empty due to renovation work in November 2020). The lighting throughout the reservoir is
very attractive and we end our visit in the candlelit café, where soft lighting and classical music
contributes to the overall atmosphere of the place.
Currently operated by Kültür A.Ş. (Culture Co.), one of the affiliates of Istanbul Metropolitan
Municipality, the Basilica Cistern functions as a museum and is the home for many national and
international events. The museum is open seven days a week. The entry fee for foreign visitors is
30 TL (November 2021), however, it was closed in November 2021 due to on-going restoration
work. Note that the Museums Pass is not valid here.
Our last visit for the day is to Topkapi Palace (https://www.topkapipalace.com/). To reach here
we walk down a small cobblestoned street often overlooked by visitors. Sogukçesme Sokagi is
named after a fountain at the Gülhane Park end of the street. This quiet street is lined with
beautiful trees and restored historic wooden houses built in the 19th century.
In 1986, the Touring and Automobile Federation restored most of these two- and three-story
houses and converted them into small hotels and restaurants. One of the buildings has been
converted into a cultural center and another into the Istanbul Kitapligi (Library). At the end of
the street towards Gülhane Park is an ancient Byzantine cistern, which houses the Sarnıç
Restaurant today.
After the conquest of Istanbul by Mehmed the Conqueror in 1453, construction of the Topkapi
Palace was started in 1460 and completed in 1478. This was the home of the various sultans from
the 15th to the 19th centuries. It was the administrative, educational, and art center of the Empire
for nearly four hundred years until the thirty-first Sultan, Sultan Abdulmecid, moved to the
Dolmabahçe Palace in the middle of the 19th century.
After the establishment of the Republic of Turkey, Topkapi Palace was transformed into a
museum in 1924. The complex is huge and you can’t see it all in less than half a day. Whether
you need to see it all is another matter. The palace is a series of pavilions built around four
courtyards.
The Imperial Gate behind the Hagia Sophia leads to the first courtyard. This is open to everyone
and it is here that we buy tickets for other areas. This courtyard houses the Byzantine former
Eastern Orthodox Church called Hagia Irene, and an entrance to the Imperial Mint. Entrance to
the palace is 150 TL and an extra 100 TL fee is required to visit the Harem. It opens every day
except Tuesday.
 Inside the third court
Hagia Irene was not converted into a mosque after the conquest of Istanbul and few changes
were made to the interior and exterior. In the years 1908-40, it served as the Military Museum.
The Hagia Irene Church (https://muze.gen.tr/muze-detay/ayairini) can now be visited for 80
TL.
Middle Gate leads to the Second Court which is surrounded by arcades on all four sides and
where there are some important buildings such as the Palace kitchens, Imperial Council
Chamber, and Inner Treasury. The first Council Hall was a wooden structure built under Fatih
Sultan Mehmet II while the present arcaded structure is the product of the re-construction work
carried out in 1527-29.
The Imperial Council consisted of the Council Chamber where state affairs were discussed, the
clerk offices where the decisions taken by the Council were put in writing, and the registry where
the documents and decision records were archived. The Imperial Council would convene four
days a week.
The Ottoman Sultans would not participate in the meetings held at the Council Hall. Most of the
times they would follow the deliberations of the Council in a room of the Tower of Justice from
behind a grilled window overlooking the Council Chamber.
The Tower of Justice was originally constructed as a tower kiosk but it was enlarged and added
to over the years. The tower was built to enable the sovereign to view the city and the palace, and
in particular, to follow the Council meetings from his grilled window.
The Outer Treasury building, which is currently used to display a collection of arms and armors
with film, music, graphics, and costume arts, was erected between 1526 and 1528 during the
time of Sultan Süleyman the Magnificent. It was used as the official state treasury up until the
mid-19th century.
All these have displays or things worth seeing. This court also provides access to the Harem
which some say is the highlight of their palace visit. You need to purchase a separate ticket to
enter here.
The sultan was allowed four wives and as many concubines as he could support and you can see
a small section of their quarters including some of the dormitories, a bedchamber with a large
indoor swimming pool, a charming small hamam, library, and a dining room.
A visit is made to the Imperial Hall which is decorated with Delft tiles, the Privy Chamber of
Murat III with its fireplace and marble fountain, and the Twin Apartments of the Crown Prince.
We exit through the Birdcage Gate into the palace’s Third Court.
The Gate of Felicity was the entrance into the third court which was the sultan’s private domain
and if you don’t do the harem tour this is where you still enter. Here is the Audience Chamber,
the Library, the Treasury, the Sacred Safekeeping Rooms, and several more areas. After the
harem, we find this the most interesting part of the palace. There is also a nice outdoor sitting
area.
The fourth court has some interesting architecture. You will enjoy the Iftariye Pavilion, the
Baghdad Kiosk, and the Revan Kiosk, all from the 1630s period. In my opinion, the palace is not
as spectacular as Hagia Sophia or Sultan Ahmet mosque but if you are into history and museums,
it probably has more to see. It is definitely one of the ‘big three’ places to see in the city.
Next day
You can enter Gülhane Park from the First Courtyard of Topkapi Palace or from a gate on the
west side of the park but we had no time yesterday to do this. It is the logical place to continue
our sightseeing today. This was once part of the palace but today it is a public park which can be
enjoyed by all.
The park is a place to come to relax and listen to the birds, to bring children to play in
surprisingly imaginative play areas, and to admire temporary art pieces that pop up from time to
time.
There are superb views of the Bosphorus from the north end of the park where there is also a tea
house. Setüstü Çay Bahçesi (Top Terrace Tea Garden) is a corner of the park that few foreigners
seem to visit, I guess because it is a fair way from the Alemdar entrance that most use to access
the park.
After pausing for tea, it's worth going downhill to the exit on the Bosporus side at Sarayburnu to
see the very first statue ever built of Mustafa Kemal Atatürk. It was erected in 1926, three years
after the founding of the Turkish Republic.
Back uphill, but still in this northern section, is Goths Column. This has survived intact from the
Roman period. It is thought the 15-m-high monolithic marble column was erected in the 3rd
century to commemorate how the Romans had defeated the Goths.
Near the southern end of the park is a kiosk, called Alaay Kosku, where the sultan would sit to
watch parades but which is now a small literature museum and library. Even if you're not much
interested in Turkish literature, it's worth coming up here to get a view through the windows at
the enormous roofed gateway on the other side of the tramlines.
Close by, and still within the park, are the Istanbul Archaeological Museums (Address:
Cankurtaran Mh., Alemdar Cad, 34122 Fatih) (http://icvb.org.tr/venue/istanbul-archaeological-
museums/). There is an extraordinarily beautiful garden and three different buildings each with
some superb exhibits inside. The museum opens every day except Mondays from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m
in winter and 9 a.m. to 7 p.m. in summer. Admission is 50 TL.
The first is the Museum of the Ancient Orient which contains artifacts from early Anatolia and
Mesopotamia, and from pre-Islamic Egypt and the Arabian Peninsula. There are sections on Pre-
Islamic Arabian Art, and Egyptian, Mesopotamian, Anatolian, and Urartuan Collections, and
Cuneiform Documents, arranged according to regions.
The main Archaeological Museum has ancient sculptures on the ground floor on the right side,
and famous artifacts such as the Alexander Sarcophagus, the Sarcophagus of Crying Women,
and the Sarcophagus of Tabnit on the left. Behind this, is a newer building with a Children’s
Museum on the ground floor, the basement has the “Surrounding Cultures of Istanbul" section,
and there are other exhibitions on the upper three floors.
The most impressive building in Gülhane Park is probably the Tiled Pavilion (Çinili Köşk)
which was built in 1472 and today houses tiles and artifacts dating from the 11th-20th centuries.
There are about 2000 artifacts belonging to the Seljuk and Ottoman eras.
While in the park, it is well worth while to check out the History of Science and Technology in
Islam Museum (HSTIM) (https://muze.gen.tr/muze-detay/islam-bilim) which is located in the
former Imperial stables of Topkapi Palace.
This museum is still not well known so you will be without the crowds that plague some other
places. In front of the entrance, the visitor encounters a large globe, which is a reconstruction of
one of the most important achievements of the Islamic scientific world.
Many people are unaware that Islam was a progressive and forward-thinking religion and society
in the early Middle Ages. The Islamic advancements made in mathematics, astronomy, and
physics predated many discoveries in Europe and this museum attempts to show how these were
adopted, altered, and assimilated into European culture.
Most of the items on display in the HSTIM are modern reconstructions of historical devices,
based on plans and texts, and not the ancient models themselves. The ingenious clocks, which
used elements like water and fire to keep track of time, are quite fascinating.
Also on display, are celestial globes, the models of early observatories, and strange mathematical
devices. The museum opens from 9 a.m. to 6 p.m. daily. Admission is 25 TL.
On leaving the park, we follow the tramline downhill through narrow streets to the railway
station. Known as the Istanbul Sirkeci Terminal this was inaugurated in 1890 as the terminus
of the famous Orient Express train, with all its style and intrigue. It then became the departure
point for international, domestic, and regional trains running westwards from the city.
European and Turkish-Thracian intercity trains no longer arrive and depart at Sirkeci due to the
ongoing work of modernizing the suburban rail network. The Bosphorus Express, connecting
Istanbul with Bulgaria, Romania, central and western European countries, currently departs from
Halkalı, 28 km west of Sirkeci. You can catch a Marmaray suburban train between Halkali and
Sirkeci.
With the opening of the first stage of the Marmaray regional train line in 2013, the new
underground Sirkeci Station took on a new purpose as a major stop on this cross-Bosphorus rail
line.
The first trip of the Orient Express departed from Paris, France in 1883 and arrived at the Sirkeci
Terminal 80 hours later. The last train ran in 1977 but there are still reminders of that service to
be seen.
 Sirkeci Railway Station Terminal
The station is a really lovely building with beautiful stained glass and is best seen from the
Golden Horn side. Inside there is a small railway museum, which will only take 15-20 minutes
to see but which has some nostalgia for train enthusiasts. We also have a quick look at the Orient
Express Café and can immediately imagine the excitement here in days gone by.
It’s still in use and we stop for a coffee just to linger for a few extra minutes. There are
photographs of Agatha Christie and scenes from the film version of Murder on the Orient
Express line the walls. The grand hall hosts the whirling dervishes’ sema.
(https://www.likealocalguide.com/istanbul/tours/whirling-dervishes-ceremony-at-istanbuls-
sirkeci-train-station).
The railway station is close to the ferry-cluttered waters of the Golden Horn so we cross the road
and walk along the foreshore. The area is crowded with people and cars wanting water transport
to the Asian side of the city. There is a car ferry to Harem and passenger ferries to Üsküdar and
Kadıköy . It is tempting to take a ferry but we decide to do it later when we have more time.
There is ceaseless movement all around but somehow men still find time to throw a fishing line
into the water from the Galata Bridge, and families buy snacks and ice-creams from street
sellers. We buy some borek (a local delicacy), which in this case is lamb, cheese, garlic, and
parsley in a phyllo pastry. It’s very filling but quite delicious.
The bridge spans the Golden Horn and leads from the Old City to the New. In 1503 the Sultan
wished to construct a bridge at the current location and he asked Leonardo da Vinci to produce a
design. His design for an unprecedented single span 240 m bridge was rejected, however, and the
construction of a bridge was not completed until the 19th century.
We are told some bridge history by a local while peering over the side at the passing parade of
boats. The first Galata Bridge was finally constructed in 1845 and was used for 18 years. This
was replaced by a second wooden bridge in 1863.
The third bridge, completed in 1875, was 480 meters long and rested on 24 pontoons. In 1912, it
was pulled upstream to replace another bridge and a fourth bridge was built but this was badly
damaged by fire in 1992.
The fifth and present opening bridge was completed in 1994. It has three vehicular lanes, a tram
track, and a walkway in each direction. The current bridge has two levels, with the lower level
full of restaurants. Vendors sell peanuts and various confectionary and drinks from carts on the
upper level.
Hundreds of fishermen line the upper railings day and night, hoping to catch something and it is
a bit of an obstacle course avoiding the bait buckets and tangled line that adorns the area. This
seems like a good place for lunch, and a sandwich with fish grilled while we watch fits the bill
nicely.
There is much to see in this area so we drag ourselves away from the water and negotiate the
shops and hawkers in the tunnel under the wide foreshore road while walking to the Spice
Bazaar (Mısır Çarşısı) (https://www.misircarsisi.org.tr/en/). This was constructed in the 1660s as
part of the New Mosque. The main entrance to the Spice Bazaar is via a high brick arch on the
pigeon infested plaza next to the New Mosque.
It was originally called the Egyptian Market because it sold mainly goods shipped in from Cairo.
Now it sells spices, nuts, dried fruit, Turkish delight, soaps, natural Turkish Viagra, and tourist
souvenirs. It opene from 8 a.m. to 7.30 p.m. daily.
It is aimed mainly at tourists but you will marvel at the well-preserved “L”-shaped building,
consisting of 88 vaulted rooms, as you wander around and talk to the vendors. You will be very
tempted to buy something and all the merchants seem to own a vacuum pack so they will
vacuum-seal it for you to take back home. This may help you get it through the customs
inspection.
The merchants seem very friendly but the Spice Bazaar is usually packed with people so pick-
pockets can be a problem. This is a prime tourist attraction and at certain times of the day gets
ridiculously crowded with huge tour groups which come from the docked cruise ships.
The Spice Bazaar has a great atmosphere and a straight-forward layout so you won’t get lost but
you also need to explore the narrow streets around the Bazaar which are lined with little shops selling a
wider range of goods, sometimes at somewhat cheaper prices. On the west side of the bazaar,
you’ll find more stalls with fresh food.
The New Mosque (Yeni Camii) is more than 400 years old and is one of the best-known sights
of Istanbul because of its location by the Galata Bridge. The mosque has two minarets and sixty-
six domes and semi domes in a cascade tumbling down from a central dome.
The façade under the porch is decorated with Iznik tiles while the interior is decorated with blue,
green, and white tiles. You could once visit during prayer times so you were able to become a
silent observer of an important part of Turkish culture but this is no longer possible. The mosque
doesn’t open to visitors until 2.30 p.m. on Fridays.
Dress codes apply to all Istanbul’s mosques and these are being enforced more rigidly these
days. Women are asked to wear a scarf over their head. Shorts and sleeveless shirts are frowned
upon. Women’s skirts should extend below the knees. It opens from 9 a.m. to 6 p.m. every day
except Friday.
Almost next door is the İşbank Museum (https://www.issanat.com.tr/turkiye-is-bankasi-muzesi)
(Hobyar Mh., Bankacılar Sk. No:2, 34112 Fatih). İşbank was founded in 1924 and was the first
bank to be established in the Republican era. One of the founders of the museum was Mustafa
Kemal Ataturk, the founder of the Turkish Republic.
The museum building was constructed in 1892 as the main post office. In 1917, the building was
sold to a local bank and in 1927, when the local bank was bought by İşbank, the building became
the İstanbul branch office of İşbank. The museum is well worth seeing. It opens 11 a.m. to 4 p.m.
daily except Mondays during the Covid-19 period. Entry is free.
While in this area, we go to see one of the mosques hidden away down a narrow lane lined with
market stalls built by the famous architect, Sinan. The Rüstem Paşa Mosque
(https://www.mimarsinan.gen.tr/rustem-pasa-camii-kulliyesi-eminonu/) to the west of the New
Mosque is a small showcase of the best Ottoman architecture and tile work. The mosque is built
on a high terrace over vaulted shops and this makes the entrance up narrow, twisting interior
flights of steps somewhat uninviting.
When you reach the top, however, there is a spacious courtyard and the mosque’s colonnaded
porch. Panels of Iznik tiles are set into the mosque’s facade and the interior is covered in similar
lovely tiles. There is a feeling of serenity here with no tourist crowds; in fact, there are only a
handful of people praying within the building. Instead of size and grandeur, here you get
exquisite artistic refinement.
Rüstem Paşa Mosque suffered damage in a fire in 1660. After the big earthquake of Istanbul in
1776, both the minaret and the dome of the mosque crashed to the ground. It was later renovated
but, the ruined dome and minaret do not match the quality of the original structure.
Unfortunately, the mosque was under renovation in 2020 but it is expected to reopen in 2021.
Once it re-opens again, you should not miss it.
It seems like a good idea to finish our day at the Grand Bazaar (Kapali Carsi)
(https://www.grandbazaarshopping.com/) so we wind uphill through crowded streets until
reaching one end of the complex. The famous Grand Bazaar at first appears chaotic but actually,
there is some order to it. This has been the heart of the Old City for centuries and you must visit
even if you don’t want to shop.
There are over 4000 shops, 3000 different traders, several kilometers of covered lanes, and
mosques, banks, restaurants, and workshops. Construction started in 1456 and repairs,
expansion, and reconstruction have continued to the present day. It is well known for its jewelry,
hand-painted ceramics, carpets, embroideries, spices, and antique shops.
 Inside the Grand Bazaar
There are many opinions about the Grand Bazaar but we enjoy visiting here. Some say it is a
tourist trap while others swear that many locals shop here all the time. Probably both are correct.
There is little doubt that locals will get a better deal than tourists but that is not really the point.
The bazaar covers nearly 31 hectares, and as well as the shops, restaurants, and workshops there
are said to be 61 streets, 10 wells, four fountains, and two mosques. Over the years, the market
has burned numerous times and been damaged by earthquakes at least twice. It is made up of
several sections but many shoppers will not necessarily be aware of that.
In the center is the high domed hall of the Cevahir Bedesten, where the most valuable items and
antiques were to be found in the past, and still are today, including furniture, copperware, amber
prayer beads, inlaid weapons, icons, watches and clocks, old coins, and silver and gold jewelry.
Walking around we are constantly approached by men with, “Hello, how are you?”, “Where are
you from?”, “Can I help you?” These are ‘commission men’ whose job is to get you into one
particular shop. Some visitors complain they can be rude and too persistent but we try to joke
with them and have never had a problem. Spend some time looking at the array of goods, or
searching out the little cafés that hideaway among the shops.
The architecture, color, and the tea men who run around with small glasses of hot tea are
fascinating. After trying some bargaining, we buy a few small and interesting objects and head
off back to our accommodation. The Grand Bazaar is open each day except Sundays and bank
holidays from 9 a.m. until 7 p.m.
Next Day
Our day starts by returning to the Grand Bazaar but after wandering for a while we decide to do
some more sightseeing. Next to the bazaar is Beyazıt Square, a spacious plaza in front of
Istanbul University's main gate.
The square is full of street vendors, students from the University, a few tourists and police, and
plenty of pigeons. The main entrance to the university is through the impressive portal on one
side of the square between two Turkish flags.
The square was Istanbul's main meeting place for centuries and it stands on the site of the ancient
Roman Forum, Tauri, once the city’s largest square and site for a gigantic triumphal arch
decorated by bronze bull heads and a monumental fountain which, unfortunately, is long gone.
All that remains is now visible at the beginning of Ordu Caddesi.
The walled Istanbul University (https://www.istanbul.edu.tr/en/) campus was built as the
Ottoman Ministry of War but before that the site was home to a large palace. We are surprised
when we are stopped from entering the university but we get a glimpse of the treed campus and
the 85-meter-high stone Beyazıt Tower, which was built as a lookout for fires.
Fire was a significant threat for Istanbul largely because most houses in the city were made of
timber. The Beyazıt Tower and two others were used for spotting fires, as they had good views
over the city.
 One of the entrances to Istanbul University
The Sultan Süleyman Mosque (Süleymaniye Camii) (https://www.ktb.gov.tr/EN-
113783/suleymaniye-mosque.html) is a huge mosque to the north of the university which sits on
one of the seven hills of Old Istanbul. It can be seen from most areas of the city. It was
commissioned in the 1550s by Süleyman the Magnificent, the most powerful of the Ottoman
sultans, and is probably the grandest mosque in the city.
This is one of several mosques built by Mimar Sinan, Turkey’s best-known architect. Like all big
and important mosques of that period, this mosque was built as a complex including a hospital,
library, madrassa, kitchen and hospice for the poor, hamam, and shops. It's one of the best
examples of Ottoman Islamic architecture in Istanbul.
It was ravaged by a fire in 1660 and the restoration changed the mosque into a more baroque
style, damaging the great work severely. The mosque was restored to its original glory during the
19th century but during World War I the courtyard was used as a weapons depot and the mosque
suffered another fire when some of the ammunition ignited. It was finally restored again in the
1960s.
The north-west side of the mosque on Şifahane Sokak is the main entrance to the courtyard. The
large forecourt, with a central ablutions fountain and domed arcades on three sides and the
mosque on the fourth, is most impressive.
Inside, the mosque is breathtaking in size. In contrast to some other mosques, it is pleasantly
simple with lovely stained-glass windows and four massive columns. The floor is covered with
carpets and the chandeliers are low and dim so it gives you an idea of the time when it was lit
with candles. The mosque is open daily to tourists except during prayer times.
One of the best views is from the balcony. Visit the beautiful, elaborately tiled tombs of
Süleyman and his sultana Roxelana in the garden behind the mosque then have a tea in the lovely
Darüzziyafe Restaurant which was once the mosque soup kitchen.
Probably nothing says that Istanbul was once a Roman city better than Valens Aqueduct
(https://vici.org/vici/7893/). Only a small section of the original now remains but it is still an
impressive sight. This was part of the major water supply system for Constantinople which at
one time formed a 400 km network of water supply canals and aqueducts.
This is one of the greatest achievements of hydraulic engineering known from antiquity. The
longest stretch ran from the vicinity of modern Vize to Constantinople and was over 250 km in
length making it the longest single water supply line known from the ancient world. More than
30 stone water bridges and many kilometers of underground tunnels carried the water over
mountain and plain to the heart of the city.
Within the city walls, over a hundred Byzantine cisterns have been identified, attesting to the
scale of the endeavor. In many respects, the completion of this gigantic water-supply system
inaugurated and confirmed the city as the new capital of the Roman world.
The surviving section of aqueduct in the city is just under a kilometer long as it crosses the small
valley between Istanbul University and the Fatih Mosque. The most impressive view is where
the wide Atatürk Bulvarı road passes under its arches but we are fascinated by the remains
further to the east where it is incorporated into some old buildings.
 Valens Aqueduct
The Şehzade Mosque (https://www.islamiclandmarks.com/turkey/sehzade-princes-mosque)
south of the aqueduct on the third hill of Istanbul, is another Sinan building and is considered by
many as one of his best. The 1540s complex is a combination of mosque, madrassa, alms-house,
and tombs. The mosque itself has a square plan which is covered by a central dome flanked by
four half-domes.
The plan of the Şehzade Mosque proved to be a great success, and it served as a model for large
mosques built after the death of Sinan such as the Yeni Valide Mosque, the Sultan Ahmet (Blue)
Mosque, as well as the Yeni (New) Fatih Mosque.
The mosque is surrounded by an inner colonnaded courtyard about the same size as the mosque
itself with a domed fountain at the center. Here, despite his general preference for greater
simplicity, Sinan has created his most decorated building, perhaps because it was designed in
memory of the death of a very young prince.
The complex also includes the imperial mausoleums which are noted for their lavish use of Iznik
tiles. The tomb of Prince Mehmed is the most glorious; its walls were covered with ceramics,
and the windows have stained glass.
We go back under the aqueduct along Atatürk Bulvari through the district of Zeyrek to the
Zeyrek Mosque (https://archnet.org/sites/2032). Zeyrek is one of the four localities in Istanbul
designated by UNESCO as Historic Areas.
It is a thriving area and life seems to be lived on the street. There are still some old wooden
houses, and the mosque has a wonderful location overlooking the Golden Horn.
This was formally the Church of the Pantocrator, a former monastery church and one of the most
important historic landmarks of the 12th century Byzantine period, but it was converted to a
mosque in the 15th century. The building has undergone several restorations over the years and
work is ongoing but it has been added to UNESCO’s list of “endangered monuments”.
The church-turned-mosque is one of the finest examples of religious architecture from the
Byzantine era in Istanbul and the second-largest surviving Byzantine religious structure in the
city after Hagia Sophia. The north and south churches, dedicated to Christ Pantocrator and the
Archangel St. Michael, are connected by an imperial chapel that was used as a mausoleum.
Let us hope that there is sufficient will to preserve and properly restore this huge building. It has
housed two religions under its majestic domed roofs and has functioned as a dominant
architectural symbol of both the Byzantine and Ottoman eras. There is an upscale restaurant in
the shadow of the mosque with a great view that is perfect for lunch.
It is good to wander through back streets to the Fatih Mosque (http://www.sacred-
destinations.com/turkey/istanbul-fatih-camii). This is at the heart of the devoutly Sunni orthodox
district of Fatih. The original building was the first great imperial mosque to be built in Istanbul
in the 1460s soon after the Ottoman sultan captured Constantinople, however, it was badly
damaged in various earthquakes.
Some of the material used in its construction came from an equally important building which had
stood on this site -- the Church of the Holy Apostles. The now vanished church, dating back to
the sixth century and built on a cruciform plan with five domes, was the second largest church in
Constantinople.
The current mosque was completed in 1771 and it does not follow the architectural design of the
original. It is attractive, however, and has recently been spectacularly renovated.
Pause to admire the elaborately decorated portal framing the massive, multi-domed prayer hall
ahead of you before stepping into the spacious courtyard. It has one central dome supported by
four semi-domes and the painting of the spacious interior reveals a Baroque influence on 18th
century Ottoman art. The gorgeous interior calligraphy is a highlight.
The fact that it is sparingly decorated gives the interior of the mosque a pleasing simplicity and
airiness. This is enhanced by the copious windows piercing both dome and the walls. We take
the stairs up to the gallery/mezzanine level to get an excellent view of the whole mosque and the
bold new red carpet and its intricate gold pattern.
The complex also contains the tomb of Mehmed II the Conqueror with its oversized coffin,
which is probably the most spectacular tomb of all of the Ottoman Sultans. The octagonal marble
tomb is a Baroque masterpiece, especially its elongated, sinuously curved porch.
In the streets to the northwest and southwest of the mosque, the huge Çarşamba market appears
each Wednesday. This has occurred for hundreds of years and it transforms the narrow streets
into interesting covered lanes filled with fruit and vegetables, household goods, cheap clothing,
and materials.
There is little to appeal to visitors, besides the sheer spectacle of so many covered women going
about their weekly shopping and men sporting skull caps and flowing beards, dressed in
voluminous shalwar pants and knee-length kameez tunics. This is a highly devout section of
Istanbul and it shows.
There is one more place to visit today so we grab a taxi and travel the two kilometers to what
was the Kariye Museum when we visited and the Chora Church for many years. In 2020 it was
reconverted from a museum to a mosque. In some ways, this is the highlight of the day. The
book, 1,000 Places to See before You Die lists this among the top 30 ‘must-see’ museums in the
world.
The first Chora Church was built in the 6th century as part of the Chora Monastery, which was a
great building complex in the Eastern Roman Empire period. The complex was almost destroyed
during the Latin invasion and the present building was not repaired until the 14th century. At this
time, it was extensively decorated with Christian mosaics and frescos but these were covered
when the building was converted into a mosque in 1511.
In 1945 it became a museum, and during a restoration carried out by the Byzantine Institute of
America, the mosaics and frescoes were uncovered again. Now they are a highlight for all to
enjoy. The artists decorated the church in stages and this is shown in differences in the mosaics'
execution as the style progressed to show more liveliness and subtlety.
The oldest surviving mosaics depict the Virgin and Child and the Domitian of the Virgin, a scene
depicting the Virgin after death before she ascends to Heaven. This scene is located above the
west door and depicts the Virgin in blue laying on a stone coffin draped in purple and gold.
Other mosaics found in the narthexes of the Chora Church also depict scenes of the lives of the
Virgin and Christ, while other scenes depict Old Testament stories that prefigure the Salvation of
Christ.

In the side chapel, the walls and ceilings are decorated with scenes from the life of Christ and
themes of salvation befitting a mortuary chapel. Like the mosaics, the scenes are painted in the
upper levels of the building while the lower levels are reserved for painted images of saints and
prophets and a decorative dado that mimics marble revetment.
Although it is quite a bit off the normal tourist path, it is well worth the visit. One of the delights
of the building is that it is small and cozy. The arched ceilings that are so vividly decorated are
almost touchable so you can really appreciate the fine detail. It is possible to get here by public
transport but most visitors will find a taxi much more convenient.
In August 2020, President Erdogan ordered the museum to be turned back into a place for
Muslim worship. What this means for the marvelous mosaics and other Christian symbols is
unknown.
While this was going to be our last stop today, we find that the Mihrimah Sultan Mosque is
close by. This is another building designed by Mimar Sinan and it is dedicated to one of the
Sultan’s daughters who was secretly loved by the architect.
It is said by the experts to be very feminine in character but repairs have changed the original
design. It has only one minaret with a single balcony, and that is unusual for the Sultan mosques
which were built by Sinan. The mosque formed part of a larger complex that included a
madrassa, primary school, Turkish bath, and shrine.
Next day
The old city walls are something of interest to me so we plan to explore them today. They were
initially built by Constantine the Great in the early 5th century, to protect the city against attack
from both sea and land. They were largely intact during most of the Ottoman period but sections
began to be dismantled in the 19th century.
Fortunately, a large-scale restoration program began in the 1980s, and you can now appreciate
what they were originally like. We take a suburban train and alight at Yedikule. Unfortunately,
this is currently not possible because of the redevelopment works on the railway. You are best to
take a taxi. Yedikule is near the Sea of Marmara and the walls extend for 6.5 km northward to
Ayvansaray on the Golden Horn.
The Marble Tower is at the point where the land walls joined the sea walls but today this is
overshadowed by the busy coastal highway that runs through here. To the north is the Yedikule
Museum (https://istanbul-tourist-information.com/en/experience-istanbul/castles-fortresses-
towers-in-istanbul/yedikule-hisari-yedikule-fortress/) or the Fortress of the Seven Towers
where foreign ambassadors who had displeased the Ottoman sultan were imprisoned.
Part of this was first built as the Golden Gate in the 4th century, and was the monumental and
ceremonial entrance to the city as travelers came along the Roman road from Europe. It predates
the construction of the famed Theodosian walls and was so named because the gigantic doors
were once covered in gold. The gate was incorporated into the wall in the early 5th century.
The gate was later included in a fort with five towers but it was partly demolished when the
Crusaders sacked Constantinople in 1204. The fort was restored in the late 14th century but was
destroyed for the second time in 1391, by the Ottoman sultan Bayezid I. After Mehmet II the
Conqueror took control of Constantinople in 1453, he rebuilt the fort and it was used as the
Ottoman state treasury until 1789.
Today, the central square is used as an open-air theater, and although the remains of the fort are
impressive, the Golden Gate itself is a bit disappointing
We walk north from here, initially between the outer wall and the moat, but later we climb up
onto the wall at one of the gate towers. The walk continues past various cemeteries on the left to
Mevlana Kapı where we go through the gate into an old traditional part of the city to find
somewhere to eat.
Continue to walk north then make a stop at the Panorama 1453 Museum
(https://www.panoramikmuze.com/en) in Topkapi Culture Park. This shows the conquest of
Istanbul by Ottoman Sultan Mehmet II, the Conqueror, through an elaborate wall-painting
accompanied by sound effects.
There is a souvenir shop, the opportunity to take photographs of a man in Ottoman soldier’s
clothes, and English audio guides are available. While interesting, I feel this attraction is really
designed for Turkish citizens wishing to learn about the history of the Ottoman conquest in 1453,
not for foreign visitors unless you are very keen on history. It opens daily from 8 a.m. to 5 p.m.
Foreign admission is 20TL.
There is a tramline nearby so we thankfully hop on board and return to our hotel. After a rest, we
dine in a local restaurant and have an early night.
Next day
Someone suggested that the neighborhood of Eyüp was worth a visit so we board the Haliç
(Golden Horn) ferry at Eminönü and head upstream. We stop at Fener, a neighborhood midway
up the Golden Horn, where there are whole streets of old wooden houses and churches dating
from Byzantine times. Wandering around is fascinating.

After the Fall of Constantinople in 1453, this area became home to many of the Greeks in the
city. The then Patriarch of Constantinople moved to the area as well and is still located here in a
sumptuous Vatican-like residence. This is a fiercely conservative Muslim neighborhood, and
first impressions produce a serious dose of culture shock even though we have been in the city
for several days.
We climb a maze of steep, narrow backstreets and find the towering red-brick Phanar Greek
Orthodox College which is the oldest surviving and most prestigious Greek Orthodox school in
the city having been established in 1454. The present building was designed by an Ottoman
Greek architect and the building was constructed in the 1880s. The large dome is used as an
observatory for astronomy classes and has a large antique telescope inside.
The Church of St. George (Fener Rum Patrikhanesi, Sadrazam Ali Paşa Caddesi)
(https://istanbeautiful.com/fener-greek-patriarchate-and-st-george-church-istanbul/) is Istanbul’s
principal Greek Orthodox cathedral. It has been the seat of the senior patriarchate of the Greek
Orthodox Church since about 1600. It is a relatively small church, especially so considering this
is the church of the recognized spiritual leader of the world's Eastern Orthodox Christians.
While outwardly unimpressive, its interior is lavishly decorated. The church is open from 8.30
a.m. to 4 p.m. In 1997, a bomb attack seriously injured a deacon and damaged the cathedral.
Similar terrorist attacks against the Ecumenical Patriarchate, its churches, and cemeteries have
occurred in recent years.
We also visit the 13th century Church of St Mary of the Mongols (Tevkii Cafér Mektebi Sokak,
Fener) which is the only Byzantine church in Istanbul that has never been converted to a mosque.
This is said to be as a reward for the construction of the Mosque of the Conqueror (Fatih Camii)
by the Greek architect Christodoulos.
The church can be difficult to find because it now goes by the Turkish name Meryem Ana. The
church is supposed to be open every day from 9 a.m. to 4 p.m. but is often closed on weekdays.
Hanging on a wall is the agreement signed by Mehmet the Conqueror guaranteeing religious
freedom to Greeks in the newly-Muslim city. Also, within the church, is the mouth of a five-
kilometer tunnel which, according to our guide, once led to the Hagia Sophia.
Further inland is the Fethiye Museum (https://www.ktb.gov.tr/EN-113944/istanbul---fethiye-
museum-pammakaristos.html) (Fethiye Caddesi, Çarşamba – Fatih) in what was once a 13th
century church. It was the seat of the Christian Orthodox Patriarchate from 1455 to 1587, after
which time it was converted into a mosque.
It features decorative brickwork on some of the outer walls, but the real beauty lies inside the
museum. The Byzantine mosaics here rival the more famous Chora Church in their beauty and
preservation. In particular, look out for Christ Pantocrator with all twelve prophets in the dome.
The museum was closed for much of 2021 and was not open in November.
It is quite a walk, but we eventually find the Yavuz Selim Mosque
(https://www.islamiclandmarks.com/turkey/yavuz-selim-mosque) and are rewarded with an
impressive view of the facade as it sits on the crest of the hill. There is just a single large flat
dome and an attractive treed courtyard, but the interior is flooded with light and impressive for
its simplicity.
Next door, is a recently restored covered reservoir. On the way back downhill, we stop for a
sesame-covered Turkish bagel in a bohemian café and join locals sipping tiny glasses of boiling
Turkish tea. Then we visit the richly ornamental cast-iron Bulgarian church of St Stephen.
This is a reasonably modern church designed by Hovsep Aznavur who was an Armenian born in
London who lived in Istanbul. Due to poor site conditions, there was an international competition
for the production of prefabricated parts for the church and an Austrian company named R Ph
Wagner won this competition. The cast iron parts were manufactured in Vienna and erected on
its present site in 1898.
After a couple of hours, we rejoin a ferry and continue to Eyüp. The original village here pre-
dates Istanbul itself since two small streams provided plenty of fresh water for a settlement. In
the Byzantine period, there was a church and later a monastery built on the steep hill.
Eyüp today, however, more reflects the Ottoman style of architecture. There are cute buildings,
pedestrianized streets, and a festival-like atmosphere. On the hillsides, there are cemeteries
dotted with cypress trees.
Eyüp’s prominent feature is its enormous Eyüp Mosque (http://www.sacred-
destinations.com/turkey/istanbul-eyup-sultan-mosque). This was built in 1459 and could have
been the first mosque constructed after the Ottoman conquest of Constantinople. During
Ottoman times the mosque used to host the coronation ceremony of Sultans. It was subsequently
destroyed by an earthquake. The present replacement was commissioned in 1798.
Right across from the mosque is Ayyub al-Ansari’s tomb. He was a friend and standard bearer of
the Prophet Mohammed, and is believed to have died here during the Muslim siege of
Constantinople in the 7th century. This is the holiest site in Istanbul as well as one of the most
sacred places in the Islamic world.
It is always busy with pilgrims coming to the tomb in the hope that their prayers will be granted.
Many Ottomans wished to be buried near here in order to be close to the saint so a number of
large cemeteries developed and it is worth wandering through them to see some of the stone-
carving.
An aerial tramway brings visitors from the shore of the Golden Horn up to the outdoor Pierre
Loti Café overlooking the shrine. This popular spot named after a 19th century French writer,
offers a tranquil view of the Golden Horn and is a good place for a traditional Turkish coffee or
tea.
Chapter 3 - Experience the NEW CITY

While it is by no means new, the Beyoğlu area across the Golden Horn from the Old City is the
heart of modern Istanbul. This is where you will find some of the best shops, excellent hotels,
stylish restaurants, and many bars and nightclubs. Galleries are scattered throughout the area and
there is a lively music scene.
When you cross the Galata Bridge, you enter Galata but you immediately have a problem. The
easy way into Beyoğlu is by the Tünel, a funicular railway built in the 19th century. If you take
this, however, you miss out on several interesting sights. If you don’t use the Tünel, you are
faced with a steep walk.
To avoid this problem, some people prefer to take the tram across the bridge to Kabataş then take
another funicular up to Taksim Square and walk back downhill to the bridge through Galata. We
have done this and it certainly makes for an easier walk.
Galata is almost as old as Constantinople but there are few relics from the early days. The area
had city walls at least 1600 years ago, and there was also a fortress here during early Byzantine
times. In 1261,
Galata became a semi-independent colony controlled by the Genoese and this remained even
after the conquest of Constantinople by the Turks. It was at that time that the walls were
removed.
During the next few centuries, this area became established as the European Quarter of the city
with Jews, Moors, Greeks, and Armenians living here. Eventually, foreign nations set up
embassies in the Beyoğlu area to the north because Galata had become too crowded.
By the mid-19th century, Beyoğlu was booming with hotels and commercial buildings being
constructed. For 70 years it was the city’s most up-market suburb. It began to lose its popularity
with the exodus of the Greek population in the 1920s and this was followed by other groups in
the 1940s.
The whole area went into decline and the sleazier side of Beyoğlu’s culture seemed to take hold.
By the 1990s, it was clear that something needed to be done to clean it up. The main street, now
called Istiklal Caddesi, was pedestrianized and a tramway with vintage trams was reconstructed
along its length. This was a success and today this area is thriving again and it is a great place to
visit.
For those who don’t like walking up hills, the Tünel
(https://www.atlasobscura.com/places/tunel) is a godsend if you are coming from the Galata
Bridge. It was conceived in the late 1860s and opened by The Metropolitan Railway Company in
1875. It was one of the first underground urban railways in the world.
The Tünel was nationalized in 1923 when the Turkish Republic was proclaimed, and modernized
and electrified in 1971. It is no world-beater in length, consisting of a single 555 m tunnel with
one station at either end. It operates every few minutes every day from around 7 a.m. to 9 p.m.
and fares are similar to short trips on buses and trams.
The 67 m Galata Tower (https://muze.gov.tr/muze-detay?sectionId=GLT04&distId=MRK)
(Büyük Hendek Caddesi, Galata) is the most obvious landmark in Galata but you have missed it
if you have taken the Tünel. It was built in 1348 as part of Istanbul’s fortifications and called the
Tower of Christ.
It was restored in the 1960s and is now a tourist attraction. After the Ottoman conquest of
Istanbul in 1453, the tower became a prison and naval depot. For many years it was used as a fire
lookout tower.
Today, you can ride to the 7th floor by elevator. From there you have to take two flights of stairs
to reach the observation deck. The view from the narrow outside balcony is impressive. The
balcony is open daily from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. (7 p.m. in summer). There's an admission fee of 100
TL. There is a café/restaurant with reasonable food and ‘so-so’ service if you need to eat.
Back down the hill from here is the Quincentennial Turkish Jewish Museum (Arap Cami,
Perçemli Sk. No:1) (https://www.muze500.com/index.php?lang=en), one of the hidden museums
of the city. It is difficult to find as it is hidden at the Hırdavatçılar Bazaar to the right of the
entrance of the Tünel. The building, which is 342 years old, is a synagogue that served the city’s
Jewish community between 1671 and 1985.
The museum tells the stories of Turkey’s Jews and promotes the story of 700 years of amity
between Turks and Jews. It also shows how the two cultures have influenced each other over the
past 700 years, and also conveys the humanitarian spirit of the Turkish nation. It is closed on
Saturdays.
In the past few years, the entire district from the Galata Tower uphill to Tünel Square has
changed enormously and been extraordinarily gentrified. Now you find chic cafés, art galleries,
design firms, boutiques, and restaurants in its narrow streets. This is becoming a neighborhood
where foreign visitors come and stay to enjoy the sights, sounds, flavors, and pleasures of
Beyoğlu.
Another building that you will have missed is the Arap Mosque. This is further down the hill on
Kalyon Street, not far from the Golden Horn shore. This was originally completed in 1233 as the
Church of Saint Paul, built by the Dominican priests of the Roman Catholic Church, during the
Latin Empire of Constantinople.
Following the re-conquest of Constantinople by the Byzantines in 1261, the church was given to
the local Genoese community who had remained loyal to the Byzantines during the Fourth
Crusade in 1204 and assisted them in defending the city against the invading Venetians. In 1475,
it was transformed into a mosque by the Ottoman Sultan Mehmed II and became known as
Galata Camii (Galata Mosque).
In 1492, the mosque was given to the Arabs who fled the Spanish Inquisition and migrated to
Istanbul, by Sultan Bayezid II; hence the present name Arap Camii (Arab Mosque).
It is the largest mosque in Galata and is one of the most interesting mosques in the city due to its
Gothic architectural style and the fact that the church belfry has been converted into a Spanish-
Muslim style minaret.

When you climb the hill or exit the Tünel, you are on Istiklal Caddesi, one of the most important
streets in the city. This is also the original diplomatic district when Istanbul was the capital of the
Ottoman Empire, so search out the various impressive embassy buildings that are now consulates
since the capital moved to Ankara. It runs between Tünel Square and Taksim Square, a distance
of over two kilometers.
Just back from Tünel Square on Galipdede Caddesi is the Galata Mevlevihanesi, a Whirling
Dervish Hall where they whirl each Sunday evening.
There is a small museum here which opens each day except Monday and you buy your tickets
for the Sunday service there (about 100 TL). This worship service, called the Mevlevi sema, has
white dressed dervishes whirling to the hum of ancient Islamic hymns. It is an unusual
experience and is popular with foreign visitors.
Galipdede Caddesi is, in fact, a very interesting street. Known locally as Music Street, you'll find
an enormous range of traditional percussion instruments such as darbukas, and davuls; stringed
instruments including the bağlama and saz; or Middle Eastern wind instruments like the mizmar.
Western-style instruments are also available. Many buskers congregated there and some of them
are excellent. This steep, often crowded street also sells all kinds of tourist knick-knacks.
Istiklal Caddesi was formerly known as the ‘Grande Rue de Pera’, Istanbul’s most elegant street
and home to the city’s smartest shops, various embassies, and churches as well as fashionable
residences and tea-houses. At the end of the 19th century, it had become a settlement for the
merchants, businessmen, bankers, foreigners, and rich people who followed the fashion in Paris.
Water and gas were supplied to the area and the tramway was constructed. Three theaters
simultaneously staged the most famous Paris plays of those times. It was quite a sophisticated
scene.
During the mid-20th century, it went into decline but it has now regained much of its previous
status. It is lined with hundreds of shops selling just about everything you need, and much you
don’t. It has several large stores, street vendors of all kinds, and small private shops. It is a fairly
up-market area and a popular tourist destination so prices vary from obscene to reasonable.
If you get tired and thirsty, there are plenty of cafés along the way for refreshments. I particularly
like to walk along this pedestrian street on a weekend evening simply people watching and
enjoying the atmosphere, but there are many bars to drop in on if you feel so inclined. For those
who can’t live without a Wi-Fi connection, there are many hotspots along the street.
 Istiklal Caddesi
During the early centuries of Ottoman rule, Galata became the city’s European quarter and it was
also a popular place for visiting merchants and seamen. Later, foreign powers established
embassies in adjacent Beyoğlu. This cosmopolitan atmosphere can still be seen today in many
historical and politically significant buildings and this is one of the attractions.
Located one block away from the lower end of Istiklal, Christ Church (Kirim Church) (Serdar-ı
Ekrem Sokak 52, Beyoğlu) (https://www.facebook.com/thecrimeanmemorial/) is situated on a
peaceful street surrounded by colorful apartments. The walled lush garden of this Anglican
establishment, adds to the natural beauty of the site. Christ Church was constructed as a
memorial to those who died in the Crimean War.
It closed in the late 20th century but has opened again and it is respected as a source of hospitality
for homeless refugees today. There is a service each Sunday morning at 11 a.m. The altar is
dimly lit by a rose window on the front wall. A beautiful pulpit, featuring white, red, and blue-
green shades of marble, stands in front of the altar.
As we move north-east along the road, the first significant building we see is seven-story Botter
House at number 235 with its dusty stained-glass windows and stone and curvaceous wrought
iron flourishes on the facade. Unfortunately, it is now just a damaged shadow of its former self
awaiting some love and attention as it creaks its way into dilapidation.
What can be done for these buildings is shown at the Ravouna Building at number 201. This was
designed in 1894 as a home and antiques and jewelry store for the wealthy Italian Ravouna
family. When the Ravouna family left the building, it became a bookstore and since then it has
changed hands many times.
In 2011, the building was fully renovated and it now contains the Ravouna Suites and Ravouna
Coffee and Bar (http://www.ravouna1906.com/).
In the next block, the church of St Mary Draperis (https://www.istanbulofm.org/) is reached by
a steep flight of stairs. There has been a church here from the 17th century but the current
building was constructed in 1769. St Anthony of Padua, the Church of Saint Peter and Paul, and
St Mary Draperis were the three Roman Catholic Parishes in the Levantine quarter of Istanbul.
There are daily masses in Italian and a Spanish mass on Sunday. The church is still run by
reformed Franciscan Friars. Just across the road is the old Patisserie Markiz, now a fast-food
restaurant, with a lovely Art-Nouveau interior.
Along here, you will see SALT Beyoğlu (No. 136) (https://saltonline.org/en/home). SALT is a
multifaceted institution spread across three locations. There is exhibition space, a walk-in theater,
a research library, extensive archives, Istanbul’s premier English-language bookstore Robinson
Crusoe 389, and a panoramic restaurant.
Most of these are in the main branch but this Beyoğlu location is designed to engage the public,
particularly those who might just wander in.
The main branch (SALT Galata, 11 Bankalar Caddesi) is back down the hill towards the Galata
Bridge and it is well worth while to call in here if you are walking up to the Galata Tower. It is
located in the historic Ottoman Bank building.
There is a museum in the basement dedicated to the Ottoman Bank, as a tribute to the
institution’s grandiose architectural heritage. You can see an array of original documents and
currencies, and can even climb down into the original vault used by the bank over a century ago.
The bookshop and restaurant are worth a look.
You need to leave Istiklal Caddesi to see some of the other impressive European-type buildings
and a couple of other attractions. Take a stroll down a little street on your right called Kumbaracı
Yokuşu and find the Leb-i Derya (http://www.lebiderya.com/) sign at number 57 for one of my
favorite relaxing spots in this area.
The rooftop bar is on the seventh floor and you need to take two flights of stairs and the elevator
to reach it but most people think it is worth the effort. The mix of wood, glass, soft lighting, nice
background music, and friendly staff give it great appeal. There are several other options here
including the Main Hall.
Possibly the most impressive building in this area is the French Palace on Nara Ziya Sok with
its large central courtyard and formal gardens. The halls of the French Palace are decorated with
historic tapestries, some of which have been restored, vases, paintings, and statues including a
marble statue of Napoleon Bonaparte. The French Palace is open to visitors free of charge on
Saturdays.
In this same area is Cezayir Street, a narrow, steep passageway which is sometimes called
French Street. An urban transformation project that started in 2003 gave this area a totally new
feel. The buildings, which date back to the 1800s, were restored, special musical systems were
incorporated into the street, and hundred-year-old street lamps working with coal gas were
imported from Paris.
When it initially opened, there were several French restaurants and other things French. Now it is
somewhat different. Go there if you want a nice night out in professional establishments with
bright pink surroundings. Realize though, that French Street is now full of Turkish restaurants,
manned by Turkish waiters, who are obsessed with decorating their establishments in bright
colors. Prices are on the high side.
Nearby on Tomtom Kaptan Sok is the handsome old late 16th century Palazzo di Venezia, now
the Italian consulate. This was the former embassy of the Venetian Republic and it hosted
Casanova for three months in the summer of 1744.
Back on Istiklal Cad, the restored Palais de Hollande is the Netherlands consulate. The Union
Church (http://ucistanbul.org/), a diverse, vibrant, interdenominational church of many
nationalities and backgrounds, meets in the Dutch Chapel, just off Istiklal Caddesi down the so-
called Street of the Postman. Sunday worship services in English are held at 9:30 a.m. and 11
a.m.
There are two places worth seeing on Mesrutlyet Cad, one street from Istiklal Caddesi to the
west. The first is the five-star Pera Palace Hotel (no 52) (https://www.perapalace.com/) founded
in 1892, to meet the needs of guests traveling on the famous Orient Express train.
The iconic building with its elegant rooms has played host to an impressive list of guests
including Atatürk, Ernest Hemingway, Mata Hari, Agatha Christie, and Alfred Hitchcock.
Afternoon tea in the opulent Kubbeli Lounge is a much-loved institution for Istanbul residents
and guests alike, whilst the Orient Terrace continues to be one of Istanbul's most popular outdoor
venues.
The other is the Pera Museum (https://www.peramuseum.org/) (No.65), a private museum
which exhibits three permanent collections and a variety of temporary exhibitions and which also
hosts a broad range of cultural events. It has elegant and very well-designed exhibits and spaces
and there is an art shop and café. It is, undoubtedly, one of the finest collections of Ottoman era
painting in the world.
This has introduced Turkish audiences to countless internationally acclaimed artists through joint
projects with leading international museums, collections, and foundations. The museum is
located in the historic building of the former Hotel Bristol and is open Tuesday to Saturday 11
a.m. to 6 p.m. and Sunday noon to 6 pm. Entry is 25 TL.
The imposing Renaissance-style British consulate is a few hundred meters further to the north at
the corner of Hamalbasi Cad.
Britain was the second European country to recognize the Ottoman Empire in about 1580. The
first embassy building on this site was completed around 1800 but this was destroyed in the big
Istanbul fire of 1831. The present building was completed in 1845.
Another museum that will appeal to some is the Museum of Innocence
(https://en.masumiyetmuzesi.org/) at Cukurcuma Caddesi, Dalgic Cikmazi, 2. It is much better if
you have read Nobel prize-winning author Orhan Pamuk's 2008 book of the same name just
before visiting, since the exhibits relate to the chapters.
But even if you don’t know the book, you can still see how life used to be. The novel, which is
about love, is set between 1974 and the early 2000s, and describes life in Istanbul between 1950
and 2000.
The museum is situated in an old three-story building which was built in 1897. It exhibits a
variety of artifacts including clothes, toys, utensils, bus and cinema tickets, bankbooks, paintings,
photographs, and various other items. In the attic, visitors encounter the room from the novel
where Kemal wrote his account of his obsessive love for Füsun. The museum opens from
Tuesday to Sunday and admission is 65 TL (November 2021).
You can also reach here by taking the tram from the Old City to the Tophane stop and following
the English signs from there. This is in a very attractive neighborhood, with small shops catering
to the locals, old wooden houses, and narrow winding streets.
Back on Istiklal Caddesi, the red-brick Neo-Gothic Church of St Antoine (İstiklal Caddesi No
171), which was originally from 1725 then rebuilt in 1913, is an oasis of calm and is worth
seeing. This is the largest Roman Catholic parish church in Istanbul.
It is run by Italian priests and has masses in English, Turkish, Polish, and Italian. There is an
English service on Sunday morning and a Filipino choir. Pope Giovanni XXIII preached here for
a number of years before becoming Pope.
It is not far from here to Galatasaray Square, with the grand gates of Galatasaray Lisesi, a
European-style high school. It was originally built in 1481, to educate quality people for the
palace and is the oldest high school in Turkey and one of the most influential. Today, the school
is open to students with a high Nationwide High School Entrance score. The curriculum is a
mixture of Turkish and French, and teaching is provided in both languages .
Opposite the school is Yapı Kredi Vedat Nedim Tör Museum
(https://www.yapikredi.com.tr/en/culture-and-arts/vedat-nedim-tor-museum) , at no. 285. This
supposedly has the world’s 3rd biggest coin collection, and there are good metal, embroidery,
fabric, manuscript, and rosary collections. It opens weekdays from 10 a.m. to 7 p.m., Saturdays
from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m., and Sundays from 1 p.m. to 6 p.m.
The historic Galatasaray Hamamı (http://www.galatasarayhamami.com/hammam/), a Turkish
bath which was built in 1481 and is quite tourist friendly, is just off to your right on Turnaci Basi
Sokak. The building is very interesting but the hamam experience gets conflicting reviews.
When it was restored in 1965, the dressing room was made of concrete blocks, a fountain was
placed in the middle, a section of the hamam wall was covered with tile, and a small women’s
section was added.
Just past Galatasaray Square, there are a couple of beautifully restored arcades on the left. The
most famous is Çiçek Paşajı (Flower Passage) (http://www.tarihicicekpasaji.com/) which is
outstanding and has 10 attractive restaurants inside. This building was Istanbul’s most glamorous
address at one time. Built in 1876 and decorated in Second Empire style, it housed a shopping
arcade and apartments.
Prices at the various restaurants here are not cheap and the food gets mixed reports but it is worth
a look even if you don’t eat or drink anything.
 Çiçek Paşajı
For something cheaper, you can head through the nearby fish market and find some local eating
places along Nevizade, a small street parallel to Istiklal Caddesi. While Nevizade is the name of
a street, it actually refers to a whole restaurant and nightlife area, including the maze of small
streets connecting to it. Every night, the streets here are packed with people out for a good time.
There are many Meyhanes in this area. This is a traditional Turkish restaurant that literally means
“drinking place” where the drink is “rakı”. Rakı is enjoyed with a type of food called “meze”, hot
or cold appetizers to share. It's great fun with a Turkish friend, though it can be a bit daunting by
yourself.
In my experience, it's really a friendly scene and women are welcomed. After a few minutes,
you're certain to have made some new friends among the Turkish and foreign diners. Just steer
clear of political and religious talk!
One of the highlights of the night are the live musicians who roam the street playing classical
Turkish music accompanied with darbuka (drums), violin, clarinet, and the kanun (a triangular-
shaped string instrument). If they come to your table and play a song or two, it’s customary to tip
them 10-15 TL.
If you go a little further you will come to The Dogançay Museum
(http://www.dogancaymuseum.org/pPages/pGallery.aspx?
pgID=579&lang=ENG&section=9&param1=138) at Balo Sok. No:42. It is tucked away among
the bustling alleys and housed in a historic 150-year-old five-story building. It provides an
overview of the work of Burhan Dogançay, one of Turkey’s leading artists. The museum is open
every day except Monday from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. and it is free.
Go further still, and you will reach The Virgin Mary Assyrian Church, (Karakurum Sok.
No:10) the only church which was built by Assyrians in Istanbul. According to Armenian
sources, a church existed there between the years of 1650 and 1780. The church was rebuilt in
1863 and was opened for religious services and was used by both Armenians and Assyrians as a
common sanctuary.
In 1870, the church was heavily damaged in the fire of Istanbul and was extensively restored and
renovated in 1878. The old building of the church was demolished and rebuilt in 1961.
Back on Istiklal Avenue, the Hüseyin Ağa Mosque on the left was built in 1596 and there is a
fountain, made by Mimar Sinan the very famous Ottoman architect, in the grounds. The building
has a stone roof and a single minaret with a single balcony. Its base and walls were damaged
during the construction of the Demirören Shopping Center but these have now been restored.
Others will enjoy visiting the 1880s Greek Orthodox Hagia Triada Church
(https://www.facebook.com/pages/Hagia-Triada-Greek-Orthodox-Church-
Istanbul/195253890618774) on Meselik Sok near Taksim Square which is considered to be the
largest Greek Orthodox shrine in Istanbul today.
The Hagia Triada Church was attacked by an organized mob and badly damaged and set on fire
in 1955. The attack was directed primarily at Istanbul's Greek minority. Repairs and renovations
of the church were completed in 2003.
The Demirören Shopping Center matches the historical buildings on both sides of Istiklal
Avenue and with its 41 stores, it offers its visitors culture, art, and fun activities. On the upper
floor there is a Food Court with big windows offering a good view.
As Istiklal Caddesi nears Taksim Square there are more bars and restaurants, and many shops.
Pera, in an Art-Nouveau building, is a favorite with its smart wooden interior and cunning
lighting. It stocks good-quality clothing and a range of gifts and tableware. Some visitors will be
pleased to know that there are Pizza Hut, McDonald’s, Subway, and Burger King outlets here as
well as local outfits.
The first thing that strikes you about Taksim Square (Taksim Square)
(http://www.allaboutistanbul.com/taksim.html) is the size. It is a main transportation hub and a
popular destination for both locals and tourists, but frankly, it is not very spectacular. The
Monument of the Republic, and the entrance to a Metro station are circled by roads and, at times,
chaotic traffic.
The monument was made by the Italian sculptor Pietro Canonica and opened in 1928. It
commemorates Mustafa Kemal Ataturk, the founder of the Republic, in his dual roles as a
military commander-in-chief and a statesman. Since it's opening, the monument has become the
spot for many official ceremonies.
The square can get busy with commuters because it serves as the city’s main bus transfer point
and there is also a funicular down to sea level at Kabataş. The ugly Atatürk Cultural Center on
the eastern side is under re-construction snd serves as a venue for shows, opera, ballet, and
concerts.
The controversial Taskim Mosque was opened in 2021 and now dominates the square. It
features prominently next to a public space traditionally seen as a symbol of the secular Turkish
republic. Its size dwarfs nearby, small Ottoman-era mosques and it has a capacity that allows
4,000 people to perform prayers at the same time.
The government has plans to develop this area further but a scheme to build a shopping center in
adjacent Gezi Park led to ugly clashes between protesters and police in 2013 and the plan seems
to have stalled.
The unrest was triggered by a crackdown on a sit-in by environmentalists protesting the
uprooting of trees at Gezi to make way for the planned construction but other complaints also
surfaced including corruption within government. Thousands of people rally each year to mark
the anniversary of the Gezi Park protests.
There are several major up-market hotels in the area to the right as you walk along Cumhuriyet
Caddesi. These include the Intercontinental Istanbul, the Grand Hyatt Istanbul, the Divan
Istanbul, and the Hilton Istanbul Bosphorus.
The Baroque-style Cathedral of Saint Esprit (Cathedral of the Holy Spirit) (Cumhuriyet
Caddesi No. 127/A Şişli) (https://www.facebook.com/kutsalruhkatedrali/) is on the left before
the Istanbul Congress Center. This is the second largest Catholic Church in the city and was built
in 1846 by the famous architects, the Fossati brothers.
Following an earthquake in 1865, the cathedral was badly damaged and it has received several
restorations. The building is hidden behind the walls of the French Notre Dame de Sion high
school.
The Congress Center (http://www.iccistanbul.com/) is on your right. This is an international
congress and event destination on eight floors, which hosts congresses, conferences,
symposiums, corporate meetings, fairs, exhibitions, concerts, musicals, and theater and movie
premieres. The next major building is the Military Museum.
The Military Museum (Valikonagi Caddesi, Harbiye) (http://howtoistanbul.com/en/the-military-
museum/338) is about a 15-minute walk from Taksim Square along Cumhuriyet Cad, and the
sweet smell of the sycamore trees when passing Gezi Park is a nice contrast to the diesel fumes
in the square.
The museum houses a fine collection of historical weapons, uniforms, and tools of various
periods from the early years to recent times. Today, in 22 rooms, about nine thousand pieces
from the Ottoman era through World War I are exhibited. The total collection runs to about fifty
thousand objects.
One of the most interesting pieces is the chain that the Byzantines put across the mouth of the
Golden Horn to keep out vessels during the Turkish siege of Constantinople. There is also a great
display of WWI and the War of Independence equipment and plenty of information in English.
For some visitors, the main reason to go is to see the Military Band Performance at 3 p.m. on
some days. The official band of the Ottoman army was known as the Mehter and the music of
this ‘oldest band in the world’ is still played in the traditional manner at the museum. The
Ottomans were the first to use musicians in military campaigns and to integrate music into the
life and work of the army. The museum opens Wednesday to Sunday.
Today has been a lot of walking, but we want to get down to the Bosphorus shore so we walk
downhill through Maçka Park with its outdoor sports equipment, children playgrounds, lawns,
ponds, gardens, cafés, and restaurants. On the way, we see one of the most popular concert
arenas of Istanbul, Kucukciftlik Park. The park is one of the most beautiful spots in Istanbul for
sunsets.
At one point, we pass under the short gondola line that crosses the valley to Maçka, before
emerging close to the Dolmabahçe Palace (https://www.dolmabahcepalace.com/), the largest
palace in Turkey.
This was home to six Sultans from 1856 until 1924. During the early years of the republic,
President Atatürk used the palace as his Istanbul base. He died here in 1938 and all the clocks in
the palace are stopped at the time of his death.
The palace, which is set in well-tended gardens and entered via its ornate imperial gate, is
divided into three main sections: Administrative apartments, Ceremonial Hall, and Imperial
Harem. The impressive Ceremonial Hall was built between the other two sections, and it was
where the sultan received his important guests and foreign statesmen.
The only way to see the interior is with a guided tour. A visit begins at the Medhal Hall which
holds the world's largest Bohemian crystal chandelier. Next is a series of rooms, each with
wooden paneling, ebony, mahogany, and walnut wooden floors, French baccarat fireplaces and
so on. A couple of large halls upstairs are decorated with Hereke carpets, crystal chandeliers, and
fireplaces.
The Harem section consists of several rooms, baths, and halls. There were suites for the sultan,
quarters of the Queen mother (Valide Sultan), rooms for official wives, favorites (Gözde), and
concubines (Cariye), and some education rooms for the young children of the sultan.
It is interesting but it is really a monument to extravagance, wealth, privilege, and some say
vulgarity. Dolmabahçe Palace Museum is open each day from 9 a.m. to at least 4 p.m., except
Mondays and Thursdays. You cannot take photos inside.
Many visitors miss the Museum of Painting and Sculpture which is in the Harem building. This
has quite an extensive selection and is included in the Harem ticket but there is also a separate
entrance through a delightful courtyard if you just want to visit the museum.
Besides the main palace, there are several other buildings in the complex such as the imperial
kitchens, crown prince rooms, barracks, stables, pharmacy, flour mill, aviary, and so on. The
clock tower, designed in Ottoman neo-baroque style, was added in the 1890s. The four-sided,
four-story tower reaches a height of 27 m.
Dolmabahçe Mosque (http://www.turkishculture.org/architecture/architects/balyan-
family/garabed-amira/dolmabahce-mosque-947.htm) was built in a similar style to the palace and
is radically different from most mosques. It has two minarets and a single dome. Large windows
let in abundant light to highlight the colorful marble interior decoration. An area was constructed
on the front part where the Sultan and statesmen could perform their prayers and where public
processions and meetings could be accommodated.
The modern Naval Museum (https://denizmuzesi.dzkk.tsk.tr/en) is almost next door to the palace
and some will find this interesting. There is a collection of impressively adorned Imperial barges
which were once used to ferry the Ottoman sultans and their families along the Bosphorus, a vast
general collection which includes weaponry, model ships, engravings and paintings, and a whole
lot more.
The jewel of the museum, however, is the “Historic Galley” (Kadırga) thought to have been
constructed in the 16th century, making it the world’s oldest galley surviving as a whole today.
The impressive 40-meter-long boat has 24 pairs of oars, each oar designed to be pulled by three
oarsmen.
The kiosk on top of the boat, a marvel of mother of pearl artistry, is one of the most beautiful
samples of Ottoman craftsmanship to be seen anywhere. The museum is open from Tuesday to Sunday
from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. The entrance fee is 12 TL
Further east from here is the spectacular Çırağan Palace built in the 1860s which is now the
Kempinski Hotel. It was the home of two sultans and then housed the Turkish parliament for a
few years until it was burnt in 1910. It stayed unkempt for many years until after a complete
restoration the Cıragan Palace Kempinski Istanbul opened in 1992. Some of the grounds are
open to the public and you can take photographs of the magnificent facade.
Yildiz Park is across the road. This vast hillside, wooded area is dotted with mansions, lakes,
and gardens and is well worth a visit. Sala Kosku, a fascinating building in different styles is
open to the public as is the Yildiz Palace Museum (https://www.istanbulview.com/yildiz-
palace/) where furniture and other items are on display. The Şala is the largest and the most
exquisite of the buildings existing in the complex, revealing the luxury in which the sultans
lived. The museum is currently closed (November 2021).
Yıldız used to be a forest in Byzantine times then later it was part of the imperial garden of
Yıldız Palace. Extending down the slopes from the palace, this walled park was reserved only for
palace dwellers. Currently, Yıldız Park is a beautiful garden complex set in a very large park of
flowers, plants, and trees, gathered from around the world
Some visitors will like to see the Yildiz Porcelain Factory where items are still produced in
ornate European styles. Others will wander around the other pavilions enjoying the marvelous
terraces and fine views across the Bosphorus. There are cafés, restaurants, and vendors within
the park.
It is just a short walk from here to Ortaköy, an artsy neighborhood on the bank of the
Bosphorus. During the Ottoman period, it was just a small fishing village and a resort for the
Ottoman dignitaries because of its attractive location.
Two structures dominate this area- the baroque Ortaköy Mosque (Buyuk Mecidiye Camii )
(http://howtoistanbul.com/en/ortakoy-mosque/943) and the First Bosphorus Bridge. The two
together are a favorite subject for photographers. The charming waterfront hides a lattice of
narrow cobbled streets filled with nice cafés and trendy small clothing boutiques and is a favorite
place for anglers.
A large market operates here on weekends while during the week there is a small market selling
mainly jewelry and souvenirs. Food stands offer kumpir—a baked potato with various fillings
such as mayonnaise, ketchup, pickles, cheese, olives, sweet corn, sausage slices, and waffles
with chocolate sauce. The area now has several nightclubs, expensive seafood restaurants on the
quay, and theme bars.
When the sun goes down, this becomes a hotspot for Istanbul’s young and trendy set. Ortaköy
was home to two of the city’s hottest seaside nightclubs—Reina and Sortie. Both are famous for
their epic DJ sets, killer views, and strict entrance policy. Unfortunately, Reina was the site of
the 2017 New Year massacre where 39 people were killed by an IS-inspired gunman and it has
now closed. Sortie is still operating with six restaurants and three bars.
We take a bus back along the shore towards Galata and alight at Tophane. We stop off here to
visit Istanbul Modern (https://www.istanbulmodern.org/) or the Modern Art Museum (Kılıçali
Paşa Mh., 34433 Beyoğlu) in a converted warehouse. The location, right on the Bosphorus, is
impressive, and the stylish café here, with great views across the water, makes a good coffee or
snack stop.
As the name suggests, this is a museum of contemporary art with temporary exhibitions located
on the lower floor, along with a cinema and arts library, and the permanent collection, a shop,
and excellent restaurant with some outdoor seating on the top floor.
Appropriately, the museum features work by young Turkish artists but there is also a good
selection of modern international works. There are paintings, installations, video, light
projections and other forms of art on display.
The permanent exhibition covers the history of modern Turkish art and there are increasingly
important international shows. It opens Tuesday to Friday 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. and Saturday and
Sunday noon to 5 p.m. Foreigners pay 68 TL admission. Photography is not allowed in the
gallery.
There are two mosques close by. Cihangir Mosque sits high up on a hill and is one of Mimar
Sinan’s designs. It was built in the 16th century to commemorate Cihangir the son of Süleyman
the Magnificent. It burned down in 1874 and was reconstructed. The Mosque's garden has a nice
view of the Bosphorus and Istanbul.
Nusretiye Mosque, which is said to have the most beautiful silhouette along the Bosphorus
coast, has two minarets, each with two minaret balconies. It retains a Baroque style, making it
unique to the city.
Gigantic cruise ships overshadow everything else as we walk back to the Galata Bridge. Just
before the bridge, there is a busy dock. From here, ferries cross under the bridge to Eminönü, and
across the Bosphorus to Üsküdar, HaydarPaşa, and Kadıköy on the Asian side of the city.
There are also a few reasonable cafés/restaurants in the narrow streets where locals drink coffee
while reading their newspapers or talking with friends, but when cruise ships are in there are also
many hustlers.
Our day is finished, but further out there is much to see. Some attractions are best enjoyed from a
Bosphorus cruise (see chapter 5) but others should be visited by land.
Next day
The city gets increasingly more modern as we go north of Taksim, with up-market
neighborhoods and business districts. Just to the north of the Military Museum is Maçka, a
neighborhood of business-style hotels, and this runs into the fashionable neighborhood of
Nişantaşı.
This is known for its Art Nouveau apartment buildings, and a popular shopping and residential
district considered to be one of Istanbul's most exclusive neighborhoods. This is where the locals
go to hang out, to see, and be seen.
It is also one of the most historical districts of Istanbul. The most elite people lived in this
neighborhood throughout its history. The development of the district started when Sultan Selim
the 3rd built an archery area. Later, Abdülhamit the 1st chose Nişantaşı for the wedding
ceremonies of his sisters that are said to have lasted for two weeks.
Elegant boutiques along Teşvikiye Caddesi, Abdi İpekçi Caddesi, and other nearby streets have
attractively-displayed high-quality merchandise. Abdi İpekçi Street is the equivalent of Rodeo
Drive in Los Angeles. It is lined with some of the world’s most famous designer and brand name
stores such as Burberry, Marks & Spencer, Godiva Chocolatier, Lacoste, Beymen, Louis
Vuitton, Bang Olufsen, Prada, Tiffany’s and a whole lot more.
Outside the stores, tourists and yuppie locals take pictures and stand gaping at the merchandise
on offer. Short Atiye Street has many nice cafés and restaurants. Frankly, we can spend ages here
just wandering, looking, and marveling at the scene.
There are plenty of hotel offerings including the hip Sofa Hotel (Tel: +90 212 368 18 18) near the
City’s department store complex, the boutique The Stay Nisantasi Hotel above the Prada store on
Abdi İpekçi Caddesi, and the unusual Jazz Hotel. City’s has 150 stores, cinemas, top local and
global brands, cafés, and exclusive restaurants.
The main thoroughfare of this Şişli district is Cumhuriyet Caddesi which runs north from Taksim
Square, then Halaskargazi Caddesi which passes through Nişantaşı, and Büyükdere Caddesi,
which passes through Levent and Maslak and eventually reaches Sariyer on the Bosphorus.
Between Taksim and Levent, a metro/subway line lies under these streets and this is the fastest
and most convenient way to reach these areas.
During the 17th century, there were only graveyards in Şişli and not much settlement. In the 18th
century vineyards, barley fields, and several gardens were developed. Other buildings followed
in the 19th century especially with the construction of the Feriköy and Bomonti breweries and a
Children's Hospital in 1898. During those years, many non-Muslims and immigrants moved to
Şişli forming a diverse population.
Rapid development followed when Şişli had the first electric tram in 1913 and many apartment
blocks were built around the 1920s. One of the earliest house examples in Şişli is the 1908
House of Ataturk (https://www.weloveist.com/listing/ataturk-museum) where he lived for some
years until 1919. This is now the Ataturk Museum.
After the Republic, Şişli became one of the most elite neighborhoods with upper-class locals,
foreigners, and non-Muslims. There are many old mosques, churches, and synagogues in the
district. Lately, it has become one of the small business and finance centers of Istanbul
If you are into up-market shopping centers just keep going north. Istanbul Cevahir Shopping
and Entertainment Center (http://www.istanbulcevahir.com/en-EN/home/29.aspx) (Büyükdere
Cad. No 22, Şişli), opened in 2005, and claimed to be the largest shopping mall in Europe until
2011. The center is home to 230 shops over six floors, cinemas, delicious food, and limitless
entertainment in Atlantis, a covered thematic play park.
Just a kilometer or so to the east is Zorlu Center (https://www.zorlucenter.com.tr/en/) a four-
tower, five-function structure group, including a public square, residential development, and
office space. The shopping center contains over 200 shops, and 40 cafés and restaurants.
The complex also contains the largest performing arts center in the city, which features a 770-
seat theater as well as a 2,300-seat concert hall. The Raffles Istanbul Hotel is also situated here.
Further out is Kanyon (https://www.kanyon.com.tr/en/home) (Büyükdere Cad No 185), one of
the most exclusive shopping malls in Istanbul with sophisticated, modernistic architecture. It is
close to the Levent subway station and to the Metrocity shopping center
(https://metrocity.com.tr/) with its 175 stores on 5 floors.
There are further malls to the north but they can be difficult to reach without a car and don’t
really offer anything new. (For further information on shopping malls see Chapter 10)
Along the Bosphorus
There is a string of villages north of Ortaköy along the Bosphorus Strait. We take bus No 40
which originated at Taksim Square and follows the coastal road. The first place we come to is
Arnavutköy, one of the most beautiful of the villages along here. It is famous for its wooden
Ottoman-style mansions and seafood restaurants.
The population was once made up mainly of Greeks and Jews but many have moved away,
however, there are still a couple of Greek tavernas which are worth visiting. Surprisingly, it
retains a charming village feel. You can see the large Greek Orthodox Church of Taksiarkis and
further inland you will find the Greek Orthodox Church of Hagios Elias.
Both churches date back to the late 19th century and still serve a small Greek community that
lives in the area. There is also the Tevfikiye Cami that was built in 1832, and the ruins of a
synagogue.
Also in Arnavutköy, is Istanbul’s most prestigious high school, Robert College – an American
school, established in 1831, with an impressive list of alumni that includes the novelist Orhan
Pamuk, Rahmi Koç (who founded the Rahmi M Koç Museum), Suna Kıraç (founder of Pera
Museum), along with three Turkish Prime Ministers, and four Bulgarian Prime Ministers.
Bebek is the next center. The traffic on the road is quite heavy and travel is slow. Locals and
visitors love the shoreline that extends from Arnavutköy to Bebek for the trendy café culture and
the stunning views along the Bosphorus.
There are many great places to sit and watch the yachts go by, and a visit to these quaint seaside
neighborhoods is a must for those who want to catch a glimpse of how Istanbul’s young and
well-to-do spend their days.
Bebek is one of the most Western places in Istanbul and probably one of the wealthiest. You
immediately see it in the yachts and boats anchored along the coast and some of the most
expensive cars in the world in the narrow streets.
There is a glitzy atmosphere in the streets with bumper-to-bumper honking SUVs and up-market
European cars, and the sidewalks are full of high heeled ladies in the latest fashion. Getting down
to the Bosphorus is almost impossible, as the shoreline is dominated by upscale restaurants and
mansions.
Along the coastal road, we wander through a row of stylish patisseries, bookstores, and cafés
before settling into a waterside café for tea and some tasty cakes. The view from the second story
terrace is outstanding and we linger much longer than we should.
Inland, there is a small hillside forest and it is here that we find Boğaziçi University, one of the
better education establishments in these parts. Besides Bebek Mosque located to the west of the
cove, there is also an Eastern Orthodox Church, and a Catholic Church.
The most beautiful building is the waterfront Art Nouveau-style Hidiv Sarayi (Khedive's Villa)
which belonged to the Egyptian consulate. Today, the Khedive's Villa is a public garden and
restaurant open to the public.
You can visit to enjoy the shady groves, well-kept flower gardens, sweeping view of the
Bosphorus, and perhaps tea and refreshments or a meal. Bebek also has some great bars, where
you can sometimes spot some of Istanbul’s more famous residents.
One of the most impressive sights on this side of the strait is Rumeli Fortress (Rumelihisarı). It
was built by the Turks in 1452 prior to the conquest of Constantinople, to block any possible sea
support which might have come from the Black Sea to assist the Byzantines. It is situated on the
narrowest point of the Bosphorus Strait, facing the smaller Anadolu Hisarı fortress already erected
on the Asian side.
The mighty fortress had a useful military life of less than one year. The Ottoman army conquered
the Byzantine capital several months after it was built, and then there was no need for Rumeli
Hisarı. The fortress was used as a rather large and impressive Bosphorus toll booth for a while,
then as a barracks, later as a prison, and then as an open-air theater.
It is now a museum, displaying the canons that were used during the conquest. After paying the
small admission fee we are free to climb around and explore. The site includes remains of the
fortification walls with towers and gates as well as cisterns, fountains, and a mosque. It opens
from 9.30 a.m. to 4.30 p.m. but is closed on Wednesdays.
Just north of here is a ‘must-see’ if you are here on a weekend. The art exhibits at Borusan
Contemporary (Baltalimani Hisar Street, Perili Kosk No: 5, Sariyer)
(https://www.borusancontemporary.com/en/) are only open from 10 a.m. to 7 p.m. during the
weekend, because the rest of the time, this is a working office building!
The building is magnificent, and the lovely office spaces function perfectly as art galleries. There
are stunning views of the Bosphorus from all the floors but the terrace views are phenomenal.
Normal entry is 20TL but it was still closed in November 2021 due to Covid-19.
We walk under the Second Bosphorus Bridge and along the shore to enjoy the beautiful views.
There is a lovely shaded square in the center of Emirgan, with a café which makes a nice
stopping point.
We continue walking as far as the Sakip Sabanci Museum
(https://www.sakipsabancimuzesi.org/en). In 1925, an Egyptian commissioned an Italian
architect to build the villa, now the museum's main building, and it was used as a summer house
for many years. It was purchased in 1951 by industrialist Hacı Ömer Sabancı then later it
became a home for Sakıp Sabancı who was a collector of calligraphy and paintings.
In 1998, the mansion together with its collection and furnishings was bequeathed to Sabancı
University by the Sabancı family to be transformed into a museum.
A modern gallery was added to the structure and the exhibition areas opened to visitors in 2002.
A further extension of the layout in 2005 enabled it to become a world-class museum set on an
old estate with lovely landscaping and glorious views of the Bosphorus. The museum grounds
are beautiful and the collection of calligraphy, fans, paintings, and korans is outstanding.
The museum opens daily except Monday. Admission is 50 TL but is 35 TL for seniors over 60,
children under 15, disabled visitors, and is free for everyone on Tuesdays. The gift shop is open
six days a week, excluding Mondays.
The beautiful Müzedechanga eatery with its startling glass walls has delicious, Turkish fusion
and international specialties. It is located above the gallery entrance and serves lunch and dinner
every day except Mondays. It is also possible to enjoy breakfasts on Saturdays and Sundays.
There are a couple of restaurants nearby with Sutis said to be a great place for a breakfast of feta
cheese, olives, tomato, cucumber, salami, eggs and more.
Just nearby is Emirgan Park which is situated on the gentle hill overlooking the neighborhood
of Emirgan and the Bosphorus. This is a beautiful park with artificial ponds, small waterfalls,
jogging tracks, picnic tables, and impressive views and it is a lovely break from the shore.
There are also cafés with open-air sections housed in pleasant former hunting manors. There is a
famous Tulip Festival here in April. The park is open daily from 7 a.m. until 10:30 p.m.
Inland from here, you find the Elgiz Museum for Contemporary Art
(http://elgizmuseum.org/en/) (Beybi Giz Plaza). The museum opened in 2001 with the idea of
promoting the development of contemporary art in Turkey by providing space, support, and
international visibility to projects by young Turkish artists.
The museum holds work by influential Turkish artists such as Ömer Uluç and Güngör Taner,
while also including works by leading international names. The museum is closed on Sunday,
Monday, and official holidays and is open on Tuesday by appointment. Entrance is free on other
days.
Below Emirgan Park is the small Bay of Istinye, which for many years housed shipyards. These
have now been removed and the area has been restored as a recreational area and marina.
Further on, we see the contrast of spacious luxury villas on the hillside and tightly packed old
houses near the sea as we enter Yeniköy. We stop in on a Greek bakery and enjoy the
cosmopolitan feeling of the area. The coast is dotted with waterside mansions and there are fish
restaurants, cafés, and shops where the area's residents meet over cups of coffee on Köybaşı
Caddesi, the main street.
The waterfront northward continues nearly as far as the Black Sea as a picturesque chain of
fishing coves which are now up-market residential neighborhoods. Most have cafés and fish
restaurants and a refined atmosphere just perfect for exploring and relaxation. In the 19th and 20th
centuries, the wealthy citizens of Istanbul escaped the city to places such as these where there
were the cooler breezes along the Bosphorus.
Inland between Yeniköy and Tarabya is the very well-presented Ural Ataman Classic Car
Museum where you have the chance to see a range of great classic American cars and some
European cars. They have some rare cars like a Mercedes Gullwing and a Ford Model T.
Among the best places for the wealthy was a small, picturesque cove called Therapia in Greek
but now known as Tarabya. Foreign diplomats built sumptuous villas on the shores to the north
and south of the cove. Now the cove is filled with restaurants that still draw crowds of city folk
in summer.
It is a nice place to walk around and enjoy the ambience. My only complaint is with the 5-star
multi-story Grand Hotel Tarabya right on the promontory, which is a nice hotel with great
views, but it is out of character with the rest of the town.
We jump back on a No 25 bus and travel to Bahçeköy Merkez. This was originally a quiet
residential area but, like many others, there are now expensive apartments and condominiums
here. Back on the coast, just before Sariyer, we stop at the Sadberk Hanim Museum
(https://www.sadberkhanimmuzesi.org.tr/default.asp?hl=en), in two spectacular yellow-colored
buildings right on the main road.
This is a privately-funded museum founded by the Koç family, one of Turkey's richest, and is
named after the wife of Vehbi Koç. The museum holds the family's collection of Ottoman art and
furnishings, but also various Anatolian antiquities and Islamic art.
The villa has been beautifully restored and a number of rooms have been decorated in Ottoman
style. The Sevgi Gönül Building houses the museum’s Archaeological section, featuring relics
from Anatolia's many ancient civilizations. The museum is open daily except Wednesday from
10 a.m. to 5 p.m. The shop has many ceramic items, jewelry, bags, and publications. Entry is 15
TL (November 2021).
Sariyer itself has long been a fishing village and there are still fishermen going out in boats for a
catch each day. This is then available in seafood restaurants. There is plenty of local atmosphere
here and it is a relaxed, friendly place during the week with a high proportion of retired residents.
We are only 22 kilometers from the Galata Bridge but we seem to be in a different world.
Unfortunately, this coast is so popular on weekends, the pleasure of a drive or bus trip here is
spoiled somewhat by the crawling queues of traffic.
Inland is the Belgrad Forest, a popular place for picnics at the weekend and, perhaps
unfortunately, luxury housing and private schools. There are seven main picnic areas in the forest
but the most popular destination is Buyuk Bent. This area has its own café where you are able to
bring your own food and cook then eat on the long wooden tables. Drinks and snacks are sold
on-site.
The 296-hectare Atatürk Arboretum (Valide Sultan Cad., Bahcekoy, Sariyer ) within the
forest, receives few foreign visitors. It contains more than 2,000 foreign and native plant species,
including some species that can’t be found anywhere else in Turkey. The arboretum is a research
site for scientists, an educational experience, and a haven for nature-lovers.
Many of the arboretum’s most exotic species are located on the “lake trail”, which takes about 90
minutes to hike. The arboretum is free to the public on weekdays from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m.
The recent expensive residential developments have turned the small village of Zekeriyaköy
into one of the wealthiest districts of Istanbul but there is little of interest for visitors.
Outside these developments, you can see the system of viaducts and reservoirs going back to
before the Ottoman period when water from here was taken to Constantinople. The area provides
marvelous views of the Bosphorus and the Black Sea.
The road through here goes 15 km to Kilyos (Kumköy), a Black Sea beach resort. This is a
small, pleasant town, although it can be desolate in winter. You find bars and cafés, some private
beach clubs, and hotels and guesthouses that open during the summer. There is a nice sandy
public beach, but in other parts a rocky coast and strong currents make some areas quite
dangerous for swimming.
Chapter 4 - See the ASIAN SHORE

On the Asian side of the Bosphorus, across from Old Istanbul and the New City, there are vast
suburbs generally ignored by visitors. This is perhaps not a surprise because there are few grand
tourist attractions here but the whole area is different and more conservative compared to much
of the European shore. The pace of life alone makes the Asian shore a worthwhile place for some
of your time.
This is the Anatolian or Asia Minor side of Istanbul. It is largely populated by the Muslim people
who came from the east after it was conquered by Sultan Orhan Gazi in 1352. This broad
peninsula that lies between the Black and Mediterranean Seas is one of the great crossroads of
ancient civilizations. It lies across the Aegean Sea to the east of Greece and is usually known by
its Greek name Anatolia.
The area has a very long history. In about 2000 BC, Asia Minor was in the hands of the Hittites,
who migrated from the area east of the Black Sea and had a civilization that rivaled that of the
Egyptians and Babylonians. In the 12th century BC, their empire fell to the Assyrians. This
allowed small seaboard states to grow up, but they were taken over by the Greeks, who colonized
the entire coast in about the 8th century BC.
According to legend, the Greeks first laid siege to the city-state of Troy during the Trojan War.
In 560BC, Croesus brought all the Greek colonies under his rule but he was then overthrown by
Cyrus the Great of Persia. Two hundred years later Alexander the Great again spread Greek rule
over the peninsula and this more or less remained until the Muslim invasion.
Visiting this area today is quite an experience. Although there are now underwater rail and road
connections and three bridges from European Istanbul, many visitors will reach here by ferry.
Riding the yellow-striped vapur (local ferry) is a nice experience. I never tire of watching the
scene from the back of the boat with a glass of hot tea and Turkish style bagel in hand. There are
flocks of seagulls to watch, the call to prayer coming from a distant minaret and the whistle of
other boats to listen to, and just being out on the water produces a feeling of peace.
The best way to start exploring the Asian side of Istanbul is by taking a ferry to Kadıköy. This is
a lively place with a local feel. There are several alternative ways to go once you leave the ferry.
One option is to turn right, then start walking the boardwalk. This lines the entire neighborhood,
is several kilometers long, and it has some neat bazaars, antique shops, and restaurants along its
length.

If you happen to be in town on a Tuesday, then you should head to the famous Tuesday market.
Leave the ferry dock, and catch the metro to the Goztepe station. The Market is close by. The
market sells many things including clothing at knock-down prices. Dried fruits and nuts are also
a good buy.
If you are not here on a Tuesday, you can still visit the daily Kadıköy market. It’s a different
experience, but no less enjoyable — and much closer to the pier. Cross the main street after
leaving the ferry dock and make a right and then turn left. If you find yourself in car-free streets
filled with shops, you’re there.
It is a really laid-back place to walk or shop around in. There are also plenty of nice pastry shops,
bookstores, and cafés with terraces to recharge your batteries. At the end of this area, you will
see the beautifully restored Sureyya Opera House with its Neo-classical facade on Bahariye
Caddesi.
Tellalzade Street, also known as “'Kadıköy Antique Shops Street”, is a gem for antique
enthusiasts. It’s also home to many second-hand shops and a couple of stores selling old records.
You can find retro typewriters, huge chandeliers, old postcards, furniture, and most other things
you need. While shopping, take a Turkish coffee break at one of the little coffee shops with
tables on the street.
Yeldeğirmeni is an historical part of Kadıköy with plenty to offer. Many elderly people have
lived here from birth. It’s relatively inexpensive, there are lots of things to see and do, and it’s
home to several art studios. With an interesting blend of social classes and religions, it’s a great
place to get to know another side of Istanbul.
Simply wander around the streets, soak up the history and see if you can chat with the friendly
locals. You’ll see impressive murals on the sides of buildings – these were painted as part of the
Mural-Ist Street Art Festival.
If you are really keen, you can take any of these buses from Kadiköy and get off at Göztepe;
10B, 10S, 14Ç, 17, 17L, 19F, 19M, 19S. From there it's a short walk to the Toy Museum
(https://istanbuloyuncakmuzesi.com/pages/en) (Göztepe Mh., Dr. Zeki Zeren Sk No 17).
The collection has been imaginatively presented over 4 floors of a restored timber Ottoman
house and there are said to be over 4000 items on display, some dating back 200 years. The
Museum Café is located on the ground floor. The museum is closed on Mondays and visiting
hours on other days are 11 a.m. to 6 p.m. Admission is 25TL (November 2021).
Moda is the area to the south of Kadıköy. Many people think it is spectacular, but I don’t
particularly agree with that, however, it is a good place to wander around and have a tea or
coffee while overlooking the Sea of Marmara. You can walk all the way to Moda, but taking the
nostalgic tram (T3) is more convenient. You get off at the Moda stop.
Here you find little record shops, ateliers, cafés, theaters, and bookstores side by side in this
bohemian corner of Istanbul. In parts it is experimental and sophisticated, so it is a magnet for
ateliers and exhibition spaces, and therefore a magnet for the hip youngsters of the city.
Once there, head to the café/restaurant at the Moda pier (Moda İskele). This has seen better days,
but it is still a good place to relax and enjoy the view. You can see the adjacent Fenerbahçe and
Kalamış Marinas across the water. With a combined capacity of 12,000 boats, this is the biggest
marina in Turkey.
Undoubtedly, the most famous street on the Asian side is Bağdat Caddesi, a brand-name
shopping destination. The avenue was given its current name in 1638, to honor Ottoman Sultan
Murat IV’s conquest of Baghdad. Ottoman officials and rich merchants built extravagant
residences, some of which have been preserved. Until the 1960s, Bağdat Caddesi was mainly a
summer resort for the city’s wealthiest residents.
If you thought that Asian Istanbul would be behind the times, come here and be amazed. It easily
ranks with London, Paris, and New York for sophisticated shopping. Bağdat Street is 14
kilometers long and has every shop imaginable, however, much of Bağdat Caddesi’s shopping
area is concentrated along a wide, tree-lined section between Bostancı and Kızıltoprak.
Major fashion houses are in the Suadiye neighborhood, towards the avenue’s eastern end. Global
brands such as Zara, Nine West, Tommy Hilfiger, Aldo, Michael Kors and Longchamp have
outlets, some more than one.
It is especially popular with Istanbul’s rich young people, and they come here to shop, sip a café
latte, and talk. Along its length are shopping malls, department stores, both local and
international cuisine restaurants, cafés, and pubs. Stores are open seven days a week. The area
surrounding Bağdat Street is an upper-class residential area.
Where the shops and restaurants dwindle toward the western end, you will find Göztepe Parkı, a
nicely manicured green space with fountains and majestic topiary. This is a perfect place to relax
in after a day of shopping. If you have never been to this area of Istanbul, I urge you to go and I
wonder why more visitors to Istanbul don’t make their own pilgrimage down Bağdat Caddesi.
As we approached Kadıköy on the ferry, we saw the Port of HaydarPaşa and the HaydarPaşa Railway
Station. The port is one of the main container terminals of Turkey, while the railway station is an
impressive Neo-Renaissance style building built in 1908 by the Germans as the Istanbul-
Baghdad and Istanbul-Damascus-Medina railway terminal.
The building was still well used by trains from the east until 2012, many bringing new
immigrants to the city from Turkey’s rural areas but work on the new high-speed Istanbul to
Ankara rail line have disrupted the service. This was once the busiest railway station in Turkey
and it has become a political football since train service ended. In November 2020 the Minister
of Transport and Infrastructure announced that “Haydarpaşa will be a museum".
This decision is being hampered by the on-going excavations at the station which have yielded
an array of landmark finds, including ruins from the Ottoman, Roman and Byzantine periods.
Now, Turkish archaeologists have unearthed the remains of a third- or fourth-century B.C. aspe,
or semicircular recess, thought to be part of a monument or mausoleum,
Currently, Turkey's YHT High-Speed Trains from Ankara and the east stop at the Sogutlucesme
high speed train station in Kadikoy, just a kilometre or so from HaydarPaşa before continuing
under a tunnel to European Istabul.
The classic building has been extensively restored since 2016 but has been embroiled in
controversy as to what to do with it. This is a great pity because it is truly a masterpiece and
should be promoted and be open to the public. The monumental building itself has many stained-
glass windows which give the cavernous interior a somewhat romantic effect. The stunning
ticket hall and the disused platforms and public areas echo with century-old intrigue and
adventure.
If you want to explore this area further, when you get off the ferry in Kadıköy, turn left onto
Rıhtım Caddesi then continue on this wide road and see Kadıköy from a higher viewpoint. When
you reach the Marmara University on your left, you can continue walking or take a taxi to the
entrance of the vast, forbidding Selimiye Army Barracks, the site of the Crimean-War-era
military hospital and what was the fascinating Florence Nightingale Museum. Unfortunately, it
appears that this very interesting museum has closed permanently.
We could walk down to Harem where the Anatolian Bus terminal is located and there is a ferry
back to the European side but instead, we take a bus along the sea side road north towards
Üsküdar and even beyond.
Üsküdar was a Greek colony in the 7th century B.C., known for its pier and Byzantine
Chalcedon shipyards, and during the Ottoman Empire it was a very popular Turkish settlement
area. Today, it is a popular, conservative middle-class area with many mosques, fountains,
waterside mansions, and palaces.
Üsküdar is the suburb which has the strongest connection with Anatolia. It was the center of
trade until the railway was installed in the 19th century to the HaydarPaşa Railway Station It was
also the starting point for trade with Iran and Armenia during the 16th and 17th centuries.
At one point it was a highly desirable location but nothing remains today of the shore-side
mansions which were built in the 18th century. Its green hills have become choked with concrete
block buildings with just a few of the wooden houses with balconies and bow-windows
remaining.

We arrive by bus from Kadıköy but you can hop on a ferry from Eminönü or Beşiktaş and reach
Üsküdar Square in 20 minutes or take the subway from Sirkeci using an underwater tunnel. The
central business district, which lies adjacent to the harbor, is known for its reasonably priced
clothing and shoe stores as well as its many antique shops.
The Valide-i Atik Complex is a hidden oasis in this densely populated neighborhood. The
complex was built by Mimar Sinan between 1577 and 1583. It is a walled aggregation of
buildings and, along with Süleymaniye, is one of the two great Istanbul complexes. Though not
nearly as famous as the former, it was designed on a similar plan and bears the architect’s
signature all over the place.
The extensive complex includes a school for teaching the traditions of Islamic law, a soup
kitchen, a hospital with an insane asylum, an inn, a hamam, and a mosque. It consists of three
building groups separated by streets.
Our first visit is to the Mimar Sinan Bazaar, a former 16th century hamam which has been
converted into a bustling market. This hamam was designed as a double bath for men and
women and has kept both domes. The building fell into ruins and the front dressing room was
torn down to make way for an expanded roadway. The remaining half was restored in 1966 and
is now cramped between small shops.
If you need an operating hamam, the Cinili Hamam which was built in 1640 is clean and
reasonably priced but, unfortunately, staff only speak very limited English.
Next, it is to the Mihrimah Sultan Mosque. Built in 1548, this beautiful mosque stands opposite
the ferry terminals and has a large dome flanked by three smaller semi-domes and there are two
huge minarets having one balcony (sherefe) each. The decorative niche and the marble pulpit
reflect classical Ottoman architecture. It is one of the few significant structures preserving the
traces of the past on the Anatolian side of Istanbul.
Nearby, is the wonderfully waterfront-sited Şemsi Paşa Mosque built in 1580, another of
Sinan’s master pieces built when he was already 90 years old . which has been beautifully
restored. It is a small but perfectly proportioned building. The building is interesting because of
its location, its beautiful proportions, its integrated tomb, and its latecomers' porch, which runs
along two sides of the mosque instead of one.
Pride of place inside is taken by a piece of the kiswa, the black cloth that covers the kabe, the
holy stone building in Mecca. The oldest mosque in the area is the Rumi Mehmet Paşa Mosque
(Aziz Mahmut Hüdayi), which was opened in 1471.
During Ottoman times, the main Square in Üsküdar was the departure point for the imperial
caravan as it set out on its annual pilgrimage to Mecca. The solid marble Ahmet III Fountain in
the square was built by the Sultan in 1728 and it displays calligraphic verses written by Ahmet
III himself.
Üsküdar has many good quality cafés, restaurants, and tea gardens. The promenade, which
stretches from the harbor to Harem through an area known as Salacak, is an especially popular
place to enjoy a steaming tea or a fresh fish meal because of its wonderful views across to the
Topkapi Palace and Old Istanbul.
This is also the point from which a shuttle boat goes across to the Maiden’s Tower (Kız Kulesi)
(https://www.goturkeytourism.com/things-to-do/maidens-tower-istanbul-turkey.html). This was
first mentioned in 410BC but it has been reconstructed and renovated many times since then. It is
now open to the public as a bar, café, and restaurant and it has undoubtedly one of the greatest
views in Istanbul.
The restaurant, in my opinion, is not worth the money, so I suggest just going for a drink or a
snack. You can also reach the Maiden Tower by boat from Ortaköy and Kabataş on the European
side. Some readers will remember that the tower appeared in a 1990s James Bond movie.
North from here is the suburb of Kuzguncuk. On the way there, we pass through Fethi Paşa
Wood, a large park with nice views situated on a hillside overlooking the Bosphorus. This gets a
great number of visitors especially at the weekends.
We also see the outstanding Fethi Ahmet Paşa Yalısi, the 18th century wooden mansion of the
Ottoman ambassador to Paris, but buildings like this are best viewed from the water.
The laid-back seaside suburb of Kuzguncuk was once populated by a large Jewish, Armenian,
and Greek minority and today it draws many visitors keen to wander its cobbled streets and
admire the colorful wooden houses which line them. Üryanizade Sokak is one of the best. Before
leaving the main center, I recommend you see the 1792 marble fountain at the quay.
History calls us, so we visit the 1878 Merkez/Beth Yaakov Synagogue (İcadiye Caddesi 9) with
its beautiful dome painted with scenes depicting Israel. Close by, is the Virane Synagogue
which, though small, is nevertheless worth seeing. We walk quite a distance uphill from the main
village on Kuzguncuk Dere Sokak to see the Kuzguncuk Jewish Cemetery, which dates back
almost 500 years.
We also visit the recently renovated Saint Gregory the Illuminator church (Sakizcilar Street 3)
which is situated next to the quay. This Armenian church, which dates from 1835, has a central
dome with four supporting pillars, a large arch with an Armenian prayer inscribed on it, and
many narrow windows and skylights.
Greek sites include the 6th century Greek Orthodox Church of St. Panteleimon (Tuyan Sokak 28),
built during the reign of Emperor Justinian, and a pretty Greek cemetery which visitors are free
to wander around. The village itself has a lovely range of restaurants, cafés, tea gardens, and art
galleries particularly along İcadiye Caddesi.
North from here is a site not to be missed. Beylerbeyi Palace (https://istanbul.com/things-to-
do/beylerbeyi-palace#more) was constructed between 1861 and 1865 in French neo-baroque
style and although it’s smaller and less sumptuously decorated than some of the city’s other
palaces, it has a lovely position on the Bosphorus. The building has 26 rooms over three floors
and there are spectacular Bohemian crystal chandeliers, hand knotted Hereke carpets, and Sèvres
vases.
It was built on the orders of the Ottoman Sultan Abdulaziz and has the usual sumptuous
chambers, Bohemian crystal chandeliers, Chinese vases, a fountain in the main salon, and
pleasant gardens. The palace was often used as a guest house for visiting royalty.
There is an impressive staircase leading up to the Palace and the terraced gardens have two
marble bathing pavilions and the pretty former stables of the Sultan. Behind the palace, there is
an old tunnel and a terraced garden with two pavilions. The garden café is a popular weekend
breakfast spot. The palace opens Tuesday, Wednesday, Friday, Saturday, and Sunday.
The palace is situated just below the First Bosphorus Bridge which connects Europe and Asia.
The bridge was completed in 1973 and was the first of three bridges over the Bosphorus, the
second being the Fatih Sultan Mehmet Bridge which is situated further upstream. A third called
the Yavuz Sultan Selim Bridge opened in 2016.
The Bosphorus Bridge has a span of over 1000 m and is one of the 20th largest suspension
bridges in the world. Despite its eight lanes, traffic jams are commonplace during rush hour as
commuters make the intercontinental trip.
Many Istanbul visitors will cross over or sail under this picturesque bridge. It is a beautiful sight
during the day with the minarets and domes of the Blue Mosque and the Hagia Sophia in the
background. At night, the bridge is lit by computerized LED lights with changing patterns and
colors. The Intercontinental Istanbul Eurasia Marathon held in October is one of the few times
that pedestrians are allowed to cross the bridge.
Inland from here, Camlica Hill offers a unique perspective on the city. This is the highest point
in Istanbul and the gardens and surrounding pine forests are very attractive. Camlica got its name
from the pine trees in the area (Çam means Pine in Turkish).
Early settlers turned the entire region into a pine forest, which survived not only the Roman
period but also the Byzantines. There are several tea gardens and restaurants and on weekends
there are many street stalls.
The hill is also one of the best locations in Istanbul for observing migrating birds. Bird-watchers
from all around the world come here especially in September and October or in the spring time
to watch and identify the birds.
This is the location of the Çamlıca Mosque, the largest mosque in Turkey. The mosque can hold
63,000 people and includes a museum, art gallery, library, conference hall, and underground
parking lot for 3,500 vehicles. It was designed by two female architects and was opened in 2019
after a six-year construction period.
Bus No 15 goes north from here along the coast to a series of village suburbs and a few specific
attractions. As you continue along the coast, the urban atmosphere gives way to village life more
quickly than on the European side. This trip is not for everyone but for those visitors who want
to get a complete view of Istanbul, it is absolutely essential.
The tiny village of Çengelköy has huge oak trees with branches shading the waterside cafés and
restaurants near the boat landing. The quaint fishing village is dotted with waterfront tea gardens
while stately Ottoman-era mansions rise up on the hill above. Though the area has become a
residential hot-spot for the Istanbul’s upper classes, Çengelköy still has a cozy charm for visitors.
Give yourself time to stroll the main avenue. Visit the historical bakery, and see the wooden
houses, the fish stands, and the cute shops with small windows. There are some lovely seaside
mansions which, unfortunately, can’t be visited. You won’t miss the greengrocers selling the
popular “Çengelköy gherkins”.
There are several high-quality fish restaurants and there are few better ways to spend an
afternoon than at a Çengelköy tea garden peering out at the little fishing boats and mighty
Bosphorus Bridge.
Çengelköy also has a car museum. The Automobile Museum of the Sabri Artam Foundation
(https://crazywit.com/classic-car-museums-you-must-see-in-turkey/) is on Bosna Boulevard. The
museum has many different types of antiques, custom-designed cars, race cars, and motorcycles.
It is open Wednesdays to Sundays from 10 a.m. to 7 p.m.
The coastal road continues north past the Kaymak Mustafa Paşa Mosque which was constructed
by Mustafa Paşa, a fleet admiral for the Ottoman Navy. We pass through the Kandilli district,
whose names comes from either the lamps that were placed at Kandilli Point to create an ancient
lighthouse, or from the many candle makers that set up their workshops in the area.
Standing midway between the first two bridges, and disturbed by neither, Kandilli is one of the
prettiest Bosphorus villages and this is the site for some of the most striking yalıs which were
originally extravagant retreats for the wealthy.
Next is the Anadoluhisarı district with its Anatolian Castle which was built in 1393 as part of
the preparations for the Second Ottoman Siege of Constantinople, which took place in 1395. This
makes it the oldest Turkish structure in Istanbul. Later, the building served as a military prison,
but these days it is not open to the public.
It is situated at the narrowest point of the Bosporus Strait and with the Rumeli Fortress on the
opposite side, it ensured full control over the traffic in the Bosphorus.
In Kızılserçe Street along the Göksu River just before the fort, you'll find a couple of nice
restaurants and cafés along the shore. Walk farther and you'll find an old Ottoman graveyard
with interesting stones. There is also a fish restaurant at the base of the fort. Right across the
small Göksu River from the fort is the Küçüksu Mansion which is open to the public.
The Küçüksu Palace (Küçüksu Kasrı), a small Rococo summer palace (1857) over four floors,
was used by sultans for short stays. This is another location which has appeared in a James Bond
movie. The interior is lavish with Bohemian crystal chandeliers, antique furniture, mahogany
floors, and lavish carpets.
There is a café in the grounds with good views of the water. It is closed Monday and Thursday,
the same as Beylerbeyi Palace. The imposing Fatih Sultan Mehmet Bridge is nearby, as is a
famous fish restaurant.
The second Bosphorus bridge is named after the 15th century Ottoman Sultan Mehmed the
Conqueror, who conquered Istanbul in 1453 and ended the Byzantine Empire. The bridge was
designed by Freeman Fox & Partners, who had previously also designed the Bosphorus Bridge.
It is currently the 14th longest suspension bridge in the world.
 Küçüksu Palace
After passing under the bridge, we reach Kanlica, a pretty village famous throughout Istanbul
for its delicious yogurt sweetened with a variety of toppings including fruit preserve, honey, and
icing sugar. Kanlica has a scattering of tea gardens along the shoreline and these are a popular
place to watch the passing boats or admire the graceful waterfront mansions.
The ferry landing stage here opens onto a lovely little main square that has fishing boats moored
alongside the inlet that runs to the mosque.
There are also two buildings worth visiting. The first is Iskender Paşa Mosque, a tiny gem with
its brick and colored stone minaret, built by Sinan in the 16th century, and the Ismail Aga Coffee
House, which is always crowded and now probably depends more on yogurt than the coffee that
originally made it famous with prime ministers and famous writers in the late 19th century.
This area has some of the best-surviving yalıs or mansion houses on the Bosphorus although,
unfortunately, none are open to the public.
Mihrabat Woods is an 80-hectare woodland park which sits on the hillside above Kanlica. It has
walking trails, cafés offering refreshments and is a place to sit and smoke on a Nargile (water
pipe) while looking out over the Bosphorus and its bridges. There has been woodland here since
the reign of Sultan Mahmud I (1696-1754).
The Khedive Palace (Hidiv Kisri), a former residence of the Egyptian Governor high up the hill
within a green park, is now a famous city landmark and restaurant, noted for its Sunday brunch.
It is a beautiful example of 'art-nouveau' architecture and has a stunning marble fountain at its
entrance.
There is a café outside as well and the view and flowers are excellent. We are fortunate to be
here in spring when all the tulips are in bloom. An old-fashioned lift takes you up the tower for
extensive views.
The Sehir Hatlan Bosphorus Cruise (see next chapter) stops in Kanlica briefly to allow
passengers to hop off and stock up on yogurt before resuming the tour.
Each turn of the road further north seems to bring us to a new village. Çubuklu, a hilly, leafy
and graceful suburb, is next. We then come to Beykoz. This is something of a tranquil haven
with stunning natural scenery and somewhat dilapidated charm.
Some of the most expensive houses in the city and some of the grandest of the huge wooden
Ottoman seaside houses are along the coast here owned by politicians and famous people in
Turkey. The water and the large areas of forest parkland on hillsides along much of this coast
make this area a peaceful retreat from the city.
On the hillsides above the Bosphorus, however, there is much uncontrolled development and
large areas are covered in illegal housing. This gives Beykoz a working-class character unseen
behind the luxury of the Bosphorus waterfront.
The area has been settled for a long time and has repeatedly been fought over. Beykoz center
today, however, has a quiet village atmosphere with several Ottoman-era fountains, a few
historical buildings, and nice eateries. It is well worth-while to take a walk along the attractive
coastline to see some imposing old wooden mansions.
Beyond Beykoz, the forested countryside attracts city people for picnics at the weekend. And it
is then that Beykoz suffers some of the traffic congestion that so plagues the city as a whole.
Located at the narrowest part of the Bosphorus near to the entry point of the Black Sea, Anadolu
Kavağı is the last stop on the Bosphorus cruise route and the end of some bus routes. This small
yet picturesque village is especially popular with those who like to enjoy fresh seafood with a
view.
I find, however, that these restaurants are generally not great because they have a captive
clientele when the Bosphorus ferries dock here for two hours at lunch time. This is one of the
prettiest villages on the Bosphorus, with perhaps a few too many fish restaurants, but it is best
out of season and during the week.
Rising above the restaurants, historical mansions, and souvenir shops in the village is the ruined
remains of the medieval castle of Anadolu Kavağı Kalesi on Joshua Hill. The views along the
Bosphorus and out to the Black Sea are nothing short of spectacular. Entrance is free and we are
able to wander the site without supervision. The fairly steep walk takes around half an hour and
there are plenty of cafés en route.
The area has been an important defense point for centuries and these days, much of the
surrounding area has been closed off by the Turkish military.
The Yavuz Sultan Selim Bridge, or Third Bosphorus Bridge, is a bridge for rail and motor
traffic over the Bosphorus near here. The bridge is situated between Garipçe on the European
side and Poyrazköy on the Asian side. With pylons higher than the Eiffel Tower, it is the tallest
suspension bridge in the world. The bridge opened in 2016.
The bridge is part of the projected 260 km long Northern Marmara Motorway, which will bypass
urban areas of Istanbul in the north. The main span of the bridge is the eighth-longest suspension
bridges in the world and it is the longest combined motorway/railway bridge in the world.
The road from Anadolu Kavagi continues north to the Anadolu Lighthouse. This is one of
Istanbul's best-preserved lighthouses, which has been serving sailors since before the Crimean
War. Built in 1834, the 19-m-tall structure is on a high point near the entrance to the Black Sea.
In order to help with navigation during the Crimean War (1853 - 1856), the French constructed
another lighthouse (Rumeli Feneri) directly opposite. The entirely white-painted lighthouse
comprising a large tower with a gallery and a keeper's house is operated by a family but is open
to the public.
Poyrazköy is off this road back on the Bosphorus shore. This hilltop village has a small but
pretty beach and a few restaurants and cafés. In the warmer months, many sailors visit the well-
protected cove. The beach is not very long, however, but it has some dressing rooms, cafés, and
restaurants nearby.
Admission is 25 TL per person and you can usually find free chaise lounges and umbrellas.
There is also a “women only” part of the beach where ladies can have a girl’s day out with their
friends. This is open all summer and all staff are women.
There is a good road from Beykoz to Şile and Agva on the Black Sea. Şile has grown quickly in
recent years and can get frightfully crowded on weekends in summer, but out of season it is very
attractive. The town is perched on a cliff top overlooking a large bay and a tiny island with a
castle. Its cobbled streets are lined with cafés and bars.
You’ll even find several small fishing boats, converted into restaurants, where you can enjoy a
cheap and delicious meal. The town has plenty of accommodation available, ranging from 5-star
hotels to guest houses and pensions. Public transportation buses depart regularly from Üsküdar.
Look for bus number 139 A.
There are white sandy beaches to the west, and a pretty striped lighthouse which was built during
the Ottoman Era in 1859-1860. The lighthouse stands at 19-meters-tall, making it the second
largest in Europe, and its light can be seen from 30 kilometers away, according to the nearby
sign.
Near the lighthouse is a large park where you can capture some good photos of the area and
another historic site – Şile Castle. This crumbling building dates back to Byzantine times but was
rebuilt under the Ottomans on a large rock overlooking the fishing harbor.
During the summer months, head about 3-4 km east past the lighthouse to a long stretch of sandy
beaches along the bay called Ağlayan Kaya. There are a handful of beach clubs here. The Black
Sea is quite dangerous at times here so you should only swim when a lifeguard is on duty.
Don’t forget that the water temperature here is quite cold. If you stay too long in the Black Sea
and become exposed to the wind after getting out, it is quite possible that you will end your time
in Istanbul by catching a cold.
Ağva is quieter but worth a visit because of its lovely location between two rivers, and the clean
golden sand beach. After passing Şile, go through Kabanoz, Imranlı, and Kurfallı. You will
arrive in Ağva in about one and a half hours. There are good restaurants and a few hotels. Within
Ağva, another recommend place to visit is Kilimli, which is renowned for its diving
opportunities.
Ağva is not a high-octane place rather it is better suited for a relaxing holiday in one of the hotel
gardens by the rivers. There are opportunities for taking a boat tour on the sea as well as on the
rivers. Some hotels have their own canoes for your use.
You can visit the church and gravestones belonging to Romans in Kalemköy, and caves found in
the early 4th century in Hacıllı village. Christians escaping Pagan Romans took shelter in these
caves for a long time.
In the attractive restaurants beside the blue sea or a green brook, you can find fresh fish of the
season. You can even try to catch your own. You can also enjoy cycling and hiking in Ağva’s
forests.
There is a good market on Friday in Ağva. You can find products that are cultivated by local
people which are hormone free and healthy. In addition, you can buy very famous bread from the
70-year-old bakery in Aynali Bazaar.
Chapter 5 - ACTIVITIES and TOURS

Istanbul has a range of tours both within the city and to nearby attractions. Some of these are
very worthwhile and some can be done independently if you have the time. One activity that
should not be missed is a trip on the Bosphorus.

Enjoy a Bosphorus Cruise

A Bosphorus tour is a must when visiting Istanbul. You will see a completely different side of
the city and it is both relaxing and exciting. There are several options depending on how much
time you have and what you are prepared to pay. Your cruise can take as little as one and a half
hours or a full day.
In my opinion, the best option is the Full Bosphorus Cruise (Uzun Boğaz Turu) operated by the
Sehir Hatlari company (https://www.sehirhatlari.istanbul/en/price-list/bosphorus-tours-78)
This tour takes you from Eminönü adjacent to the Galata Bridge, all the way to near the Black
Sea, and back for 25 TL (December 2021). Each way takes about 90 minutes and the ferry makes
5 short stops at various Bosphorus villages. You get off the ferry in Anadolu Kavağı, the last
stop before the Black Sea for a lunch break in one of the town’s fish restaurants and to visit the
old fortress on the hill.
During summer, you take a later ferry back to Eminönü using the same ticket. In winter, the
boats wait here for three hours. If you don’t want to return, it is possible to get a one-way ticket
for 15 TL. On board you can use digital guides explaining over 70 points of interest along the
way. It is a very relaxing and enjoyable day.
The second option offered by this company is the Short Circle Bosphorus Cruise (Kısa Boğaz
Turu). This one is great for people who are pressed for time and I strongly recommend it to
everyone. Several afternoon cruises are available every day in summer but there are less at other
times of the year and from November to February it only operates on weekends.
The cruise takes you from Eminönü to the Istinye area, stopping at Ortaköy to pick up
passengers, and back. It takes about 2 hours and costs 12 TL (December 2021).
A private boat owners' cooperative named TurYol (https://www.turyol.com/hizmetler/1/2)
operates frequent Bosphorus short cruises very similar to Sehir Hatlari. We did one of these on
our last visit to Istanbul and enjoyed the experience. Rather than stopping at Ortaköy it went
across to Üsküdar on the Asian side of the city to pick up passengers then followed a very similar
route to Sehir Hatlari.
To take a TurYol cruise, go to Eminönü and look for boats leaving from the inland side of the
Galata Bridge.
An alternative Bosphorus tour is offered by Dentur Avrasya (http://www.denturavrasya.com/en-
EN/yazi.aspx?kid=99&id=176) from the Asian side of Istanbul. You will see the palaces and
fortresses along the Bosphorus as well as the two massive suspension bridges and many more
historic places. The daily trip departs from Üsküdar at 1 p.m., 3 p.m. and 5 p.m. and from
Beşiktaş 20 minutes later. and costs 30 TL.
Sehir Hatlari operates a Full Bosphorus Cruise by Night (Mehtap Gezi) during the peak
summer months. This is the same tour as the regular Full Bosphorus Tour, but you get to see
Istanbul both in the light and at night.
The ferry leaves before dusk, providing great Istanbul sunset views. It stops in Anadolu Kavağı
for a bit over two hours so passengers can enjoy dinner in the fish restaurants on the shore.
Around 10:30 p.m. the ferry departs again for a moonlight cruise back to Eminönü. This really is
a unique experience! Unfortunately, the Bosphorus Night Tour is only available on Saturdays in
July and August.
Dentur Avrasya offers something quite different with its Hop On & Hop Off Bosphorus Tour
(http://www.denturavrasya.com/en-EN/yazi.aspx?kid=99&id=227). You can get off at any stop
you wish, and complete your tour by getting onboard the next ships that arrives.
This is run in collaboration with National Palaces and it provides you with the opportunity of
visiting several of Istanbul’s National Palaces by sea, thus avoiding the need to deal with
Istanbul's traffic. Boats depart from Kabataş and dock at Beşiktaş, Emirgan, Küçüksu Kasrı, and
Beylerbeyi Palace then complete the tour once again back in Kabata ş. The cost is 30 TL.

Experience a night ferry trip

One of the most enjoyable and cheapest night-time activities in Istanbul is to take a regular ferry
across the Bosphorus. Despite the fact you are on a public boat it is quite romantic to look back
to the Old City with its twinkling lights, and see the fishing boats, the private boats, and the
ferries heading in all directions.
The ferry from Karaköy (just over the Galata Bridge from Eminönü) to Kadıköy is a good choice
and a smart move is to buy two tokens before boarding, for the voyages out and back. Kadıköy
has some great cafés and restaurants with terraces overlooking the water that are excellent for a
night-time meal.
Alternatively, you can take the ferry from Eminönü to Üsküdar. At Üsküdar, you will find there
are restaurants and tea gardens near the Şemsi Paşa Mosque. After eating I suggest you walk the
popular waterside promenade past the famous Kız Kulesı (Maiden's Tower) to take in the view
and the sea breeze.
Be with few tourists on a Golden Horn trip
The Golden Horn is its Western name; its Turkish name, Haliç, means The Bay of Istanbul so
it’s no surprise that to take a trip on this interesting body of water you need to find the Haliç Pier
in Kasımpaşa.
The trip takes 25 minutes to Eyüp, stopping at Fener, Balat, Hasköy, Ayvansaray and Sütlüce on
the way and the fare is only 5 TL one-way. (For details about the sights on the way see chapter
2).
The Rahmi M Koç Museum (Hasköy Cad. No: 5) (http://www.rmk-
museum.org.tr/istanbul/en/rahmi-m-koc-muzesi) is a major museum dedicated to the history of
Transport, Industry and Communications. The museum is in magnificent buildings on the shore
of the historic Golden Horn near the Hasköy ferry stop.
The collection contains thousands of items from gramophone needles to full size ships and
aircraft. You can visit a submarine, take a short nostalgic railway ride, and visit a museum ship
and its café. Adult admission is 30TL and the submarine is 15TL.
There is a Museum Tearoom, Museum Shop, Barbarossa Pub, and Halat Restaurant on site,
which are open during normal opening hours, plus Halat and Barbarossa are open until late every
night except Monday. The museum opens Tuesday – Sunday from 10 a.m. to 5.30 p.m.
Also accessible from the Hasköy ferry stop is Aynalıkavak Kasrı, constructed during the reign
of Sultan Ahmed I (1603-1617), one of Istanbul’s hidden gems seldom seen by visitors. It gives a
good idea of what life was like for the Ottoman ruling class in the early 18th century. The present
building was commissioned by Sultan Ahmet III but has since been modified.
The elaborately-decorated rooms, and the Museum of Musical Instruments and Scores are
available on guided tours. It is open daily except Monday and Thursday. The grounds and gardens, which
contain a tea shop, are open to the public. Admission to the palace costs 20TL.
Visit Miniatürk (https://www.miniaturk.com.tr/en)
This is claimed to be the largest miniature park in the world. It is situated at the north-eastern
shore of the Golden Horn past Eyüp. It is possible to walk or get a taxi from the Sütlüce Pier.
The park contains over 100 models done in 1/25th scale, about half of them from Istanbul and
the rest from Anatolia and the old Ottoman territories outside of Turkey.
There are models of the popular city attractions such as Hagia Sophia, Rumeli Fortress, and the
Galata Tower, but also Safranbolu Houses, the Sumela Monastery, and the ruins of Mount
Nemrut. There are also some models of famous structures from the past that have not survived,
such as the Temple of Artemis, the Halicarnassus Mausoleum, and Ajyad Castle.
As well as the models, there is a 400-person amphitheater, shopping center, Turkey-Istanbul
helicopter simulation tour, kids' play areas, ferryboat, travel train, the Olympic Stadium of the
Four Great Teams, chess, and a labyrinth. Entry is 20TL.

Visit a hamam
A visit to a hamam (Turkish bath) is a real highlight for some people. Hamams can vary
considerably in cleanliness so it is not just a matter of going into the first one you see. If it is the
total experience you want, not just a good massage, I recommend a visit to an historical hamam
and there is at least one in each neighborhood.
These tourist hamams are in gorgeous historic surroundings where huge amounts have been
spent on providing a memorable experience. Generally, they are expensive for a rather short and
not particularly good massage, but most customers don’t care because they are very attractive
and some staff will speak English.
A first visit to a hamam can be a daunting experience because you will not know exactly what to
do, so talk to the receptionist and decide what treatment you want. In most hamams, you can
wash yourself or, use an attendant to give you an invigorating or excruciating scrub, and have an
oil massage.
Once you have paid, you are taken to a room where you take your clothes off and leave them in a
locker and don a bath cloth. Men usually wear nothing underneath the bath-cloth. Some women
keep wearing their lower underwear or bikini bottom. The choice, however, is yours.
Then you adjust your bath cloth as best you can and enter what is known as the warm room. This
is a relaxation room that is heated by hot, dry air, allowing the bather to perspire freely. Bathers
may then move to an even hotter room (known as the hot room) before they wash in cold water.
After performing a full body wash and receiving a massage, bathers finally retire to the cooling-
room for a period of relaxation. This is a vital part of the experience and you can stay here for as
long as you like. If you have had an attendant you normally tip them 10 to 15% of the total
amount.
In most hamams, there is no mixing of sexes. Many Turkish baths have two sections, one for
each sex so couples can go at the same time, or they admit men and women at separate times of
the day.
Be aware that some people will think that all of the following places are overpriced for the
service you receive. I tend to agree but it is still an experience I recommend. Four of the better
tourist hamams are:
Cağaloğlu Hamam (Yerebatan Caddesi 34 in Gülhane) (Tel: +90 212 522 2424): This is the
most spectacular of Istanbul's hamams with arched and domed ceilings, marble fountains and
interior garden.
Çemberlitaş Hamam (Vezirhan Cad. No: 8 near the Grand Mosque) (Tel: +90 212 522 7974) :
Built by the famous architect Sinan in 1584, this is a classic hamam experience with hot marble
slabs, vigorous soapy scrubs, and relaxation in a cooling room.
Ayasofya Hurrem Sultan Hamam (Cankurtaran Mahallesi Bab-ı Hümayun Caddesi) (Tel: +90
212 517 3535): The staff are very used to dealing with tourists so they will treat you with care
and provide sufficient instructions.
A better value is the recently restored Süleymaniye Hamami (Tel: +90 212 519 55 69), part of
the Süleymaniye mosque complex. It is said to be the only public hamam in Istanbul where men
and women can bathe together.
For a different and perhaps more pampered experience, head to one of the five-star hotel spas.
These offer indulgent hamam treatments and some people find them more approachable.
The Four Seasons on the Bosphorus: For those in search of a modern equivalent, the hotel's
spa offers an indulgent (and pricey) take on the traditional hamam experience.
Ritz Carlton: The hotel’s spa features nine treatment rooms and a menu of luxurious services
which are complemented by an array of distinctive amenities, such as a sauna, Jacuzzi, and
indoor pool.

Visit an Istanbul aquarium

There can be some confusion because the city has two major aquariums. Many places like to call
themselves the ‘biggest’ and the one at Şenlikköy Mahallesi Yeşilköy Halkalı Cad. No 93 Florya
(https://www.istanbulakvaryum.com/en), claims to be the biggest thematic aquarium in the
world. They have categorized everything into 17 themes and a rain forest, and you take a 1.2 km
excursion from one body of water to another.
Explanations are given via touch-screens in both Turkish and English. There are three cafés, and
a restaurant facing the ‘Panama Canal’ on one side and the sea on the other side. The entrance
fees are: 180 TL for adults and 145 TL for students, teachers, and people over 65 years. Tickets
on line are available at a discount.
The second aquarium called Istanbul SEA LIFE Aquarium
(https://www.visitsealife.com/istanbul/en/), is situated in the Forum Istanbul BayramPaşa
shopping mall. An underwater safari takes you on a moving walkway through the 80-meter-long
underwater tunnel, and the 270° panorama room offers visitors a vivid view of marine life
similar to taking a walk on the ocean floor.
This has Europe's largest shark collection. Adult entry is 130 TL. There are also combined Sea
Life and Madame Tussauds tickets at 200 TL.

The kids will enjoy the Istanbul Dolphinarium and Jurassic Land
The largest indoor dolphinarium in Europe (Silahtarağa Caddesi, No. 2/4 Eyüp)
(http://www.istanbuldolphinarium.com/eng/), has one-hour Sea-World-style shows with dolphins
jumping through hoops, catching frisbees and doing other tricks. For extra fees, you can swim or
scuba dive with the dolphins. There are three shows a day at 11 a.m.,2 p.m. and 5 p.m. except on
Mondays. Adult admission is 250 TL, and children, and students210TL (November 2021).

Take a quick orientation tour on the hop-on-hop-off sightseeing bus

This is a hop-on-hop-off open top double-decker bus service
(http://eng.bigbustours.com/istanbul/home.html) with multi-language recorded commentary.
Tickets are obtainable from booths opposite Aya Sofya and in Taksim Square or you can book
on-line. If you stay onboard the circuit takes about 90 minutes, but you can hop-on and off the
bus at many attractions and places of interest.
Choose from a 24, 48- or 72-hour ticket to see the city and its sights at your own pace. There are
two tour routes spanning Europe and Asia, free WIFI on the buses, free Miniturk and Naval
Museum tickets, and e-tickets can be sent straight to your Smartphone. The current cost is 50
Euro or 45 Euro on the web for a 24-hour ticket and 10 Euros more for the 48-hour ticket
(November 2021).
This is recommended for getting an initial overview of the city, however, there are only 14
stopping points over the two routes, infrequent service during winter, and you have to take the
highly chaotic traffic into account.

Experience local life on an Urban Adventure dinner tour

This is a great tour for those who want to see how the locals live. It is operated by the well-
known Intrepid company (http://www.istanbulurbanadventures.com) and was one of the best
things we did on our first trip to Istanbul. My wife and I traveled with a local guide through
Sultanahmet then into a residential area before we visited a typical family home.
Here we joined a family for a meal as guests. They spoke little English but the guide helped to
translate and we gained a real insight into their life. The food was excellent and we felt it was a
great privilege to be there.

Afterwards, we took a stroll with the guide through the back streets and learned about Istanbul’s
communal living style. We were taken to a popular local tea house for views of the Marmara Sea
where locals love to play backgammon.
Our guide taught us how to play, then gave us the chance to try nargile (water-pipe) smoking.
After several cups of tea and a long discussion about Turkey and the world, we returned to our
hotel absolutely elated by the experience.

Day tours
There are many offerings depending on your interests. They start with a basic Byzantine half
day tour (https://www.sightseeingtouristanbul.com/istanbulbyzantinetour.html) which visits the
Hagia Sophia Mosque, Byzantine Hippodrome, Blue Mosque, and Grand Bazaar. Several
operators do a somewhat similar trip. There are several other tours which enable you to see
different aspects of the city.
Efendi Travel (https://www.efenditravel.com/tours/golden-hornchora-church-and-boat-tour-
117.html) offers an innovative half-day city tour of some of the more out-of-the-way sights.
They pick you up at your hotel in Sultanahmet, Sirkeci, Beyazit, or Taksim and visit the
Süleymaniye Mosque the largest in Istanbul. Then it's off to Chora Church (Kariye Müzesi)
where you see the splendid 12th century Byzantine mosaics.
After driving along the side of the 4th century Byzantine city walls, you go to the Pierre Loti Café
on a hilltop overlooking the city and the Golden Horn. From there, you take the public ferry to
Eminönü. Total tour time is 3-1/2 to 4 hours. The tour operates every day except Wednesday.
A Special Dinner Night with Orient & Turkish Show
(https://istanbuldailycitytours.com/tour/special-dinner-night-with-orient-turkish-show/) will be of
interest to some. Turkish dances are known worldwide and are a very important part of the
country’s culture. This tour offers delicious Turkish food and delightful performances.
You will also be able to see Istanbul by night. All the domes and minarets lit by the moon make
an incredible view. Pick up is available from your Sultanahmet and Taksim hotel. You dine and
wine with unlimited soft and hard local beverages as you cruise on the Bosphorus.
The Best of Istanbul Tour (https://www.sightseeingtouristanbul.com/bestofistanbultour.html) is
a boutique full-day tour with a maximum of 14 participants. Tour Highlights are Hagia Sophia,
Underground Cistern, Blue Mosque, Hippodrome, Bosphorus Cruise, Cable Car to Pierre Loti
Café, and Rustem Paşa Mosque. Lunch is included.

Walking tours
Again, there are numerous walking tours available but I have actually done few of them. Many
are straight forward taking you to the main sites and giving you an in-depth appreciation of what
you are seeing. The following four tours are probably fairly specialized but they are certainly
interesting.
A three-hour Artwalk Istanbul tour (www.artwalkistanbul.com/) promises you will see another
face of the city. A professional local guide will lead you to some of Istanbul’s most interesting
art spaces including galleries, institutes, and museums. Artwalk Istanbul tours take place every
Saturday from 1–4 p.m. There are four routes to choose from. Tours are limited to a minimum of
five and maximum of 10 participants.
For those wanting to get deep into the more traditional areas, I suggest you enrich your time in
Istanbul with some valuable insider knowledge early on by taking a Fener and Balat walking
tour (https://walksinistanbul.com/istanbul-walking-tours/fener-balat-istanbul/). These areas are
off the major tourist trail; their authenticity makes this guided tour worthwhile.
The tour starts with a ferry ride to Ayvansaray. You see and walk along the mighty Byzantine
walls from the fifth century then visit the extraordinary Greek Orthodox Church, Mary
Blachernae. You then walk through Balet and Fener and enjoy watching people in their everyday
activities.
Circle Istanbul (http://www.circleistanbul.com/) typically runs on Sunday, Tuesday, and Friday
from 8:30 a.m. to 6 p.m. You will explore neighborhoods on both the city’s Asian and European
sides, taste authentic local food all day, meet with locals at workplaces, schools, and home, visit
bazaars, fish markets, and city centers, go on a Bosphorus cruise, and experience a Turkish bath
(hamam) after a long day in the city.
You travel with an outspoken, experienced local guide and a maximum of 10 people. There is
plenty of walking involved (8-10 km in total) with breaks, so wear comfortable shoes!

Food tours
These have become quite popular recently and the choice continues to expand. Here are three
suggestions.
Istanbul Secret Food Tour (https://www.secretfoodtours.com/istanbul/) is a four-hour journey,
during which local guides will educate you about some of the city's most quintessential dishes.
During the tour you will experience the best Doner, Lahmacun, Mehemen and a variety of other
delights. The tour departs at 10.30 a.m. and you meet at Kadikoy metro station exit 4, right
outside the station.
Istanbul Flavours (http://www.circleistanbul.com/istanbul-flavours) is an in-depth foodie
experience – perfect for anyone with a taste for adventure and an enthusiastic palate. This is a
food tour and a five to six-hour eating-spree. The guide will take you through Istanbul’s most
interesting neighborhoods, to hunt down the most delicious local delicacies, as well as the stories
behind them.
Istanbul Flavours runs every Monday, Wednesday, Thursday, and Saturday from 9:30 a.m. to 3
p.m. with a maximum of six people. Along the way, you will taste authentic local food all day
from vendors located in Sultanahmet, Eminönü, Kadıköy, and Moda.
Istanbul has everything that you can ask from a food destination. Culinary Walks In Istanbul
http://walksinistanbul.com/istanbul-walking-tours/culinary-walks-istanbul/) offer culinary walks
in areas where you won’t see any other tourists. You are taken to local restaurants open for lunch
where only the local shopkeepers frequent, and join very old men having tea in a secluded
mosque garden.
While eating your way around Istanbul, you will also walk into some mosques or any other
historical buildings you feel like having a look at. You will be shown how to drink proper
Turkish tea in a breakfast parlor then be taken on the ferry across the Bosphorus for further
samplings.

Biking tours
The Old City tour (4 hours) (https://www.istanbulonbike.com/causes/old-city-tours/) will take
you through Sultanahmet where great empires have flourished. While riding in the ancient
Constantinople, you will see mosques, palaces, churches, parks, and traditional districts. Besides
seeing the iconic monuments, you will discover some aspects of the city which most tourists
never see.
You will visit all the must-see and iconic monuments (Topkapi, Hagia Sophia, Blue Mosque,
Hippodrome, Süleymaniye Mosque, Grand Bazaar), less-known great sights (Spice Bazaar, New
Mosque, Aqueduct of Valens, Sehzade Mosque, Rustem Pasha Mosque), as well as traditional
districts (Kumkapi and Yenikapi) and green areas (Gülhane Park, Sultanahmet Square).
Golden Horn Istanbul Tour (https://www.bajabikes.eu/en/istanbul-golden-horn-bicycle-tour/)
takes the newly landscaped parks and bike paths by the river banks which are simply perfect for
a bike tourThis goes through the less touristic parts of town!
As you cycle along the Golden Horn, you will quickly become aware of wonderful dynamics the
city has to offer, from the imposing red Greek school, the outstanding Bulgarian iron church with
its spectacular Byzantine walls to the Feshane with its well established and fascinating history.
In the neighborhood of Eyüp you will enjoy an ice cream with devoted Muslims while you are
sitting between green areas and monuments. You will also explore the colorful ancient Jewish
and Greek Neighbourhoods Balat and Fener.
Cooking classes (see chapter 9)
Try a nargile (Hooka/Water Pipe)
The nargile, or Turkish water pipe, once played an important part in Istanbul’s social and
political life. It is still popular today with some of the locals and it is something many visitors
wish to try.
One of the popular places for trying this is Çorlulu Ali Paşa near the Grand Bazaar. It does not
look like much, and at busy times, it can be quite chaotic but it is mainly frequented by locals
and is considered very genuine. Erenler Nargile can hold up to 200 people and is open from early
morning until 2 a.m.
Yeni Marmara (Çayıroğlu Sokak). in the south of Sultanahmet, near the sea, allows you to sit on
the terrace and enjoy the view. Taksim's backstreets are full of cafés which offer nargile.

Catch a Film Festival

Most of us have a favorite movie shot in Istanbul. Mine undoubtedly is the 1963 James Bond
thriller From Russia with Love, although the 1964 daddy of all heist films, Topkapi would run it
close. Many of us associate Midnight Express with Istanbul although most of it was filmed in
Greece and Malta and both the director and script writer later apologized to the Turkish people
for the depiction of the jail.
These movies have been made by outsiders but Turkey also has a thriving local movie industry.
One of the best Turkish films and probably the best one filmed in Istanbul is the 2002 classic
Uzak. It is quite controversial but Haman is also a local classic, while the 2005 Crossing the
Bridge: the Sound of Istanbul is probably the best depiction of the varied music scene in the city.
With all this action, it is no surprise to find that Istanbul has three major film festivals during the
year. The largest is the International Istanbul Film Festival, organized by the Istanbul
Foundation for Culture and Arts, in April. The festival is two weeks long and attracts filmmakers
from all over the world. Visitors can attend free panel discussions and master classes if they
register ahead of time.
In late March or early April, Istanbul hosts an annual Mountain Film Festival, a traveling
exhibition which visits many different countries. The week-long festival features dozens of free
screenings of films and documentaries on diving, mountaineering, rock climbing, base jumping,
and other ways of exploring nature. There are also photograph and book exhibitions, and
seminars to attend.
A week of short film screenings happens at various venues in November during the Istanbul
International Short Film Festival. Every year patrons enjoy free screenings of fiction,
animation, experimental, and documentary films, all with English subtitles.

Enjoy the beach

Istanbul is built by the water so there are numerous options for enjoying the beach and going for
a swim, but don’t expect world-beating locations. There are various public and private beaches
both on the Marmara Sea and the Black Sea. Public beaches generally have no entrance fee and
there are often changing facilities, showers, and food and drink outlets, and many have
lifeguards. Popular public beaches are found at Caddebostan on the Asian side of the city, Florya
just west of the old airport on the European side, and Kilyos on the Black Sea.
There are also several private beaches where you need to be a member or you must pay an
entrance fee. These tend to be less crowded, may have better facilities, and usually provide
additional activities and services.
Caddebostan Beach is actually three separate areas along the coastal walk. The beaches are
sandy and have sunbeds and parasols. Changing rooms, showers, and snack bars are available.
The beaches are operated by the Istanbul Metropolitan Municipality and there is good security
and a zodiac rescue boat available.
Florya is one of the oldest beaches in the city and is very popular with the locals. It has been
recently renovated and has good facilities. Menekşe Beach has 620 meters of coast line, is free
and has deck chairs, umbrellas, life-saving stations, changing rooms, and a cafe. Güneş Beach is
a bigger public beach but there is an entry fee. It has all the usual facilities and a cafe.
Kilyos is about 40 kilometers from central Istanbul on the Black Sea European coast. It is very
popular on summer weekends and makes a good day trip from the city. The beach is broad and
sandy and there are various water sports facilities available.
Nearby is Solar Beach, the largest beach club in Istanbul. This is good for swimming, relaxing,
partying, and for a host of other activities such as jet skiing, go-karting, kite boarding, wind
surfing, and beach volleyball.
Also in this area, is Burç Beach which is owned by Boğaziçi University. This offers some
surfing, water skiing, and kite boarding. There are changing rooms, showers, sunbeds, parasols, a
café, bar, and fish restaurant. It opens from 9 a.m. to 9.30 p.m.

Explore the Princes’ Islands

The Sea of Marmara connects to the Black Sea via the Bosphorus Strait, and to the Aegean Sea
via the Dardanelles Strait. It is approximately 280 km long and about 80 km wide at its widest
part. It is an extremely important shipping channel. There are many marble sources on its islands
which gave its name to the Sea; marble is Marmaros in Greek and Mermer in Turkish.
There are nine islands in the Sea of Marmara not far from the city, known as the Princes' Islands
(or Adalar to the Turks), as they served as the place of exile for disgraced princes in days gone
by.
Only four of the nine are inhabited - Kinaliada, Burgazada, Heybeliada and Büyükada and in
fact, most buildings are 'summer houses', used seasonally by some of Istanbul's wealthier
inhabitants. As the use of cars, trucks, or motorcycles is banned here, the only vehicles are
bicycles, horse and carriages known as Faytons, and a few delivery vans.
You reach the islands by ferry. By Şehir Hatları ferry from Kabataş to Büyükada, the last island
on the trip, it takes about 1.5 hours and if you use a token it costs 5 TL, but it is only 3.85 TL
with the Istanbul Card. There are up to nine round-trips a day. An alternative is the IDO sea
buses (fast ferries) which cost 10 TL (7.80 TL with the Istanbul Card) per person — one way.
Dentur Avrasya's voyages to Heybeliada and Büyükada from Stone on the Asian coast depart six
times daily in winter (mid-October through early April) and there are more voyages daily in the
warmer months. The fare is 10 TL one-way.
If you go during the week, you’ll only find a handful of people, but on the weekends in the
summer many Istanbul residents escape the city and go there. Most of these seem content to stay
close to the cafés and restaurants near the ferry landings so it is not difficult to find a quiet spot
elsewhere.
The first island we reach is Kinaliada. The island is inhabited mainly by Armenians and the
Surp Krikor Lusavoric is the only Armenian Orthodox church on the islands. There is a
monastery high on a hill which originated in the Byzantine era. Cycling is the best way to tour
the island and bikes are available from shops near the ferry terminal. There is one free beach on
the south-east of the island and some better ‘pay-beaches’ elsewhere.
Burgazada is the second island and this is about the same size as Kinaliada. There are only
really two things of interest here – the Sait Faik Museum and the Church of St John the Baptist.
Both are south of the ferry terminal and you will also find the bike rental places here. Electric
vehicles are available just north of the terminal if you want to take a tour.
There is a pay-beach on the west side of the island with a nice restaurant. The island was once
covered with mature forest but much of it burned in 2003 and it is only just recovering. Despite
this, there are still sections with nice palm and fig trees crowding the narrow streets, and this
gives an easy charm not available on the larger islands. The island has one or two
accommodation options if you plan to stay longer.
Heybeliada is somewhat larger and more developed, although it has retained some of its village
identity. There are some nice wooden Art Nouveau-style houses and a few reasonable beaches.
We see the Greek Orthodox Aya Nikola church with its strange clock tower on leaving the wharf.
Elsewhere, there is a naval high school which was originally the naval War Academy, and a
wooden monastery in a pine forest on the south side of the island. The Aya Triada Manastiri, a
19th century Greek Orthodox School of Theology on the peak of a hill, is worth visiting because
of its beautiful grounds and 800-year-old church, and the walk to it is through attractive pine
forest.
The island has restaurants and a choice of accommodation. Bicycle rental and electric vehicle
tours are available and there are free ferries to take you to a couple of beach clubs on the west
and south coasts.
Büyükada is the largest of the islands and the most visited. We arrive at the cream-and-turquoise
domed terminal and find that nearly all the island’s shops, restaurants, and hotels are clustered
around a clock tower. The green, yellow, pink, and red faytons which used to be here have been
replaced by electric vehicles.
If you plan to take a tour of the island, take the long tour, not the short one. Before leaving the
ferry station, go into the tourist office for a free map of the island as it is an absolute necessity.
There are some lovely ornate villas and filigreed mansions here with beautiful gardens and other
buildings with buttressed terraces, carved moldings, and louvered shutters. Outside town, there
are extensive areas of pine forest with exotic flowers. Unfortunately, there has also been some
poor development which has destroyed some of the history and ambience but you have to live
with that.
We rent bicycles and stop to see the bright yellow cathedral, the Aya Dmitri, and the beautifully
maintained Hodegetria parish church. Later, we see a beach club nestled on a green slope, with
white deck chairs on its patio.
The gated Greek Orthodox cemetery, where wild irises grow is interesting and two museums are
worth a visit. The open-air Museum of the Princes’ Islands tells the story of the islands while
the Aya Nikola Hanger has a collection focusing on the island’s writers and poets.
The monastery of Aya Yorgi (St. George) lies at the center of the island, atop Yucetepe, the
island’s highest peak. If you are not riding a bicycle, taking an electric vehicle to where the road
to Aya Yorgi begins is a good idea, and have them wait for you there while you take the van up
to the monastery.
We see pieces of paper tied to the branches of trees and learn they are pilgrims’ hopes and
requests. In a courtyard of the monastery, the Yucetepe restaurant offers a spectacular view of
the surrounding sea.
On the way back to town, we see the island’s second hill, Isa Tepesi, and then stumble onto a
huge, dilapidated wooden structure, that was intending as a glamorous casino hotel but then
became an orphanage and is now abandoned.

Visit Termal
This is a town in the Marmara region, about 80 km from the city. It can be reached by public
transport so a day trip can be made for very reasonable cost. The best way to reach here is to take
the sea-bus from the Yenikapi terminal to Yalova. The interior of the high-speed catamaran
ferries or sea buses resemble aircraft cabins, with long rows of comfortable seats and air-
conditioning.
From Yalova you take a dolmus from there to Termal, 12 km to the south-east. It is renowned for
its hot springs set amongst lush wooded hills. There are 4 hotels and 5 baths in the complex.
Look for tiles in Iznik
This is a laidback lake-side retreat that was once the seat of empires and the scene of desperate
battles. Once known as Nicaea, it was founded by one of Alexander the Greats’ generals in 316
BC and later it played a key role in the development of Christianity.
The town was renamed Iznik in 1331 and it prospered for the next few centuries. Now it
slumbers amongst its orchards and olive groves. Unfortunately, its famous 16th century ceramics
are nowhere to be seen but modern creations can be bought in the shops.
The town is still encircled by impressive walls and its grid-plan streets make it easy to navigate.
It sits beside a nice lake backed by low wooded mountains. The beaches near town, however,
tend to be littered with rubbish and encroached by weed. There are swimming possibilities at
more distant spots if you are so inclined.
Iznik is home to the oldest Ottoman school and the oldest Ottoman mosque in Turkey. The
Süleyman Paşa Medresesi was built in 1332 and the Haci Ozbek Camii in 1333. The Iznik
Museum is housed in a building from 1388 and it contains a good collection of finds dating back
to 6000BC. There are also some fine Roman pieces but sadly almost no tiles or massive plates
that made the town famous.

Chase history in Bursa

Bursa is a large city that sprawls along the leafy lower slopes of Mount Uludağ. It was the first
capital of the Ottoman Empire and contains some fine Ottoman monuments. The United Nations
says that there are 127 mosques, 45 tombs, 34 madrassas, 25 inns, and 37 public bath houses
existing today that were constructed during the reign of the first six Ottoman sultans.
Relatively few Westerners visit here but there is plenty of interest, and the hot springs, forest,
and ski fields of Uludağ (the ancient Mysian Olympus ) outside the city are another attraction.
It is possible to visit on a long day trip from Istanbul but at least one night here is better. The day
trip starts with a sea-bus ride to Yalova then we continue by road to Bursa. Stops are made at the
early 15th century Green Mosque (Yesil Cami) with its domed central hall, and the Green Tomb
(Yesil Turbe), where Sultan Mehmet I was buried in 1421.
Both sites have interesting architecture and beautiful interior embellishments. Continuing to
Bursa’s city center you visit the Great Mosque (Ulu Camii) which was built in 1399.
The vast Koza Han market, where international merchants have met for centuries, provides a
change from the mosques and tombs. So too does traveling by cable car to Uludağ (Mt
Olympus), where there are panoramic views.
Cumalikizik Village on the outskirts of Uludağ was established to provide logistic support for the
conquest of Bursa. It has preserved not only its historical early Ottoman-era homes but the
traditional lifestyle as well and is one of the highlights of the region.

Consider a day trip to Troy

It is possible to visit the ancient city of Troy and learn about its significance in Greek mythology
as the main battlefield in the Trojan War. This is by no means the most impressive ancient site in
Turkey but it may be the best-known because of Homer and the Iliad.
The site is a five-hour drive from Istanbul so a day trip is long and tiring and some will doubt the
value of all that travel. The ruins themselves are probably not as large as many people expect but
they are impressive to many in their detail.
The story of the rediscovering of the city is interesting. Until the 1870s, most people thought
Troy was probably a legend. Then a German, Heinrich Scliemann, obtained permission to dig at
a site where the remains of an ancient temple had previously been found.
Although his excavations were far from pristine, he uncovered nine layers of remains,
representing consecutive city developments over 4000 years. The oldest remains date back to
about 3600BC, while the most modern city was built during the peak of the Roman Empire.
A typical tour leaves Istanbul early in the morning, stops at Tekirdag for breakfast and then in
Eceabat, on the east coast of the Dardanelles, for lunch. There is then a 20-minute ferry crossing
to Canakkale and a short coach ride to Troy. After exploring the ruins, you visit the wooden
Trojan Horse that symbolizes the town and the Trojan War and then head back to the city.

Remembering Gallipoli
This is in the same area as Troy so it also requires a five-hour drive from Istanbul to get there.
While this is of very special interest to Australians and New Zealanders, it can be enjoyed by
everyone. You visit ANZAC Cove, the site of the famous battle between Allied and Turkish
troops, where heavy casualties were suffered on both sides.
You see the Turkish and Allied Trenches at Johnston's Jolly and The Nek, a narrow stretch of
ridge in the battlefield. Visits are also made to the New Zealand Memorial at Chunuk Bair, site
of one of New Zealand's epic stands in August 1915.
For many, a visit to Lone Pine Cemetery and Memorial, named after the solitary pine tree that
grew there, is the most touching. The beautiful landscape and quiet atmosphere of the site hides
its horrific past. On the memorial, you will find the names of 4221 Australian and 709 New
Zealand soldiers who have no known grave.
If ancient and more modern history is of interest to you, a combined two-day visit to both Troy
and Gallipoli will give you more time on the ground and make each day less tiring. This would
be my preference.

Roman Ephesus
This is a large archaeological site and one of Turkey's major tourist attractions. There are day
trips from Istanbul where you fly to Izmir then visit the site by tour coach or you can visit on a
longer tour which includes other areas of the country.
Ephesus was first a Greek city, and later a major Roman city and it became the capital of Asia
Minor in 27 BC. It grew to a population of around 250,000 and rivaled Rome. Ephesus also
attracted Christian settlers and it is said that St. Paul lived here for three years. According to the
Bible, Ephesus was one of the seven churches addressed by Christ in a vision. In AD 263, Goths
attacked Ephesus and the city didn’t recover.
History forgot Ephesus for 1600 years until the 1860s, when excavations were undertaken on the
site. Although only about 15% of the site has been uncovered, it is claimed to be the largest
excavated ancient area in the world.
The day tour stops on Ayasuluk Hill on the way and visits the St John's Basilica, built in honor of
the saint who supposedly wrote his gospel while on the hill. At Ephesus, you visit the Temple of
Artemis, one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World, and the Great Theatre, and the
Library of Celsus among some of the best-preserved ancient ruins in the Mediterranean.
After lunch, you continue to the House of the Virgin Mary, a little cottage, said to be the place
where she spent the last days of her life, and which has been a pilgrimage place for many
centuries.

Christian Cappadocia
This part of Turkey south-east of Ankara, has moon-like landscape, underground cities, a wealth
of ancient churches, and unparalleled opportunities for adventure activities. There is a one-day
tour and a good two-day tour from Istanbul which use flights to Kayseri Airport.
The two-day tour is more comprehensive and starts with a morning hike through Rose Valley – a
beautiful stretch of land wedged between the villages of Göreme and Çavuşin. The valley is
studded with rock-carved churches and tunnels. You finish up in Çavuşin, after visiting its cave
mosque.
In the afternoon you go to Kaymakli Underground City, one of Cappadocia’s best-preserved
subterranean sites. You can explore its maze of passages, underground stables, and cellars while
learning about the early Christians who once hid here to escape persecution. Ortahisar is the final
stop of the day and you can admire the stone houses that surround Ortahisar Castle.
Day two includes an excursion to Imagination Valley, where there are many intriguing animal-
like rock formations. You stop in Paşabag (Monk’s Valley) to walk through the area’s cone-like
rocks where monks and hermits once lived in peaceful seclusion.
Then it’s to the pottery town of Avanos for lunch, and Pigeon Valley to see its famous bird-
nesting caves. The final visit is to Göreme Open-Air Museum where there are beige buildings
and fairy chimneys and a cluster of rocky monuments that attest to Byzantine life in Cappadocia.
Edirne to the west
This is a city about 225 km from Istanbul, close to the border with Greece and Bulgaria. There
are day trips by tourist coach which visit many of the main sights. These include the World
Heritage listed Selimiye Mosque, by Sinan, the 16th century Ottoman architect, which dominates
the skyline of the city. It is claimed that he considered this to be his finest work and the large
dome and spacious interior is certainly impressive.
Across the street from Selimiye is the Old Mosque (Eski Camii), the smallest and oldest of three
nearby, imperial mosques in downtown. It has rows of arches and a series of small domes with
striking geometric patterns. Üç Şerefeli Mosque is unusual because all four minarets have very
different designs.
Other highlights are the Macedonian Tower (Makedonya Kulesi), the only still intact tower of
Edirne’s city walls; the nearby Sokollu Mehmet Paşa Hamam from the 16th century which still
operates daily for both men and women; and the excellent Museum of Health which is part of
the Sultan II Bayezid Kulliyesi complex a kilometer or so north of the city center.

Planning a conference or convention

Istanbul has long been a natural meeting point for governments and corporations. As an already
well-established meetings, incentives, conferences, and exhibitions (MICE) destination, the
focus is currently on developing the domestic infrastructure to further strengthen the country’s
solid position both regionally and globally.
The city has seven large purpose-built conference centers with Istanbul being able to host more
than 30,000 people with 4000 rooms within walking distance. The city now ranks ninth
worldwide for the number of congresses it holds, a status that goes up to first when only
congresses of more than 500 people are considered. Istanbul was named Best MICE Destination
Europe in 2015.
The Istanbul Convention & Visitors Bureau (ICVB) is an information clearing house and contact
point for requests for proposals. ICVB helps promote Istanbul as a congress, meeting, and
incentive destination and also assists organizers in creating fabulous events in the city.
The city’s MICE facilities are in three main areas: the “Congress Valley” in the central district of
Harbiye; the airport and exhibition district, near Atatürk Airport, Turkey’s main international
gateway; and the business and financial district around Levent, Etiler, and Maslak.
Congress Valley, the most central of the MICE facilities, includes the Istanbul Lütfi Kırdar
International Convention and Exhibition Center (ICEC). The ICEC is at present able to provide
25 halls and meeting rooms, with seating for approximately 2000 guests in its Anadolu
auditorium.
The valley is also home to the multipurpose Istanbul Congress Center. Here, there is a 2,000-seat
auditorium and a large ballroom in the brand-new Rumeli Fair and Exhibition Hall. It has 21
meeting rooms, five boardrooms, and six VIP suites, plus simultaneous language translation
facilities, audio-visual technicians, and all the other necessary amenities needed for conferences
and banquets.
A second cluster of MICE facilities around the old airport has two large exhibition centers, a
convention center, and several four- and five-star hotels. The World Trade Center complex,
which has 11 exhibition halls including the CNR Expo, with its large exhibition space, has two
luxury hotels, a convention center with a 4,000-person capacity, and a three-plaza business
center.
In the business and financial district, several international hotel chains offer facilities close to
the headquarters of many companies and the Istanbul Stock Exchange, which is home to the new
Istanbul Culture and Congress Center.
Apart from these major facilities, Istanbul has a wealth of unique venues that are sure to make an
impression on convention goers. You can sip champagne in the gardens of the stunning
Dolmabahçe Palace, former home to six Ottoman sultans. Groups of 10 to 800 people can
experience belly dancing performances and Turkish songs at Kervansaray, a traditional Turkish
revue that's located within walking distance to numerous Conference Valley hotels.
Alternatively, delegates can take a luxury dinner cruise aboard the Bosphorus Princess, where
panoramic views of the city's soaring minarets and majestic palaces serve as an unforgettable
ending to a day.
The top five Istanbul hotels with Conference Facilities or Meeting Rooms according to Cvent,
the industry leader in Online Event Management and Planning, are listed as Raffles Istanbul,
Crowne Plaza Hotel Istanbul Asia, Holiday Inn Istanbul Airport, Renaissance Polat Istanbul
Hotel, and Hilton Istanbul Bosphorus.
Chapter 6 - A Brief HISTORY

My thanks to all those who helped in putting this chapter together.

There is little doubt that civilization here goes back a long way. Skeletons and pottery have been
found from a Neolithic burial site dating back to around 6500BC. A few finds have also been
made from the Chalcolithic period (4500-3000BC) and some from the Early Bronze Age (3000-
2000BC), but frankly little is known about these civilizations.
The main history of the area starts when a Greek settlement known as Chalcedon was founded
on the Asian side of the Bosphorus where the suburb of Kadıköy now stands, in the early 7th
century BC.
Byzantium was established on the European side by the Greeks in 667BC. This was a very
strategic location and so was fought over by many armies. Darius, King of Persia was the first
and he captured the town in 513BC. This only lasted 35 years before a Greek fleet recaptured it
in 478 BC. It then became part of Athens’s Delian League.
Towards the end of the 5th century BC, Byzantium backed Sparta over Athens in the
Peloponnesian War and then switched sides back to Athens in the 4th century. Things were
happening quickly now and in 356BC Byzantium gained its independence.
Macedonia soon attacked but the city managed to survive, then when Macedonian forces led by
Alexander the Great defeated the Persians in 334BC it was allowed to keep its independence by
acknowledging tribute to Macedonia.
The later history of Istanbul is intimately tied to the lands that were ruled from here. I wish to
thank those who helped me in this task.

The Coming of the Romans

In the 2nd century BC, the city negotiated with the Roman Republic to keep its independence in
return for paying an annual tribute. This lasted until AD79 when the Republic had become an
empire and Byzantium became part of it.
In AD193, the Roman emperor was murdered and a power struggle broke out between Niger and
Severus. Byzantium backed the loser and Severus laid siege to the city for three years before
destroying it and killing most of its citizens.
Severus, however, recognized the importance of the site, so a few years later he ordered the city
be rebuilt. He renamed it Antoninia and ordered the construction of three temples on the hill
near where the Topkapi Palace now stands.
In AD284, the Roman emperor decided to divide the empire into two but this led to a civil war.
Constantine, the ruler of the western part defeated his rival Licinius, the emperor of the east, in a
major battle on the Asian side of the Bosphorus in AD324. Constantine was impressed with the
superb location of Antoninia and decided to make this his new imperial capital.

The Roman Capital

To make Antoninia a worthy capital of the Roman Empire, Constantine decided he needed some
major development. The first action was to move the city walls further west to enclose a much
larger area than before. In the city, the Hippodrome and Forum were enlarged and an imperial
palace was built.
In AD330, the emperor renamed the city Nova Roma (New Rome) but the name of
Constantinopolis was commonly used. In AD337 Constantine became a Christian and this would
have a considerable bearing on how it developed.
In AD395, the empire was again split with the western part once more ruled from Rome and the
eastern part from Constantinople. In AD413, Constantinople’s land walls were again moved
west and they had to be rebuilt after a major earthquake in AD447. The western part of the
empire was under attack from the Goths and Rome finally fell in AD476, making Constantinople
the sole capital of a smaller Roman empire.
The city was far from safe, however. The Persians threatened from the east and after a major
defeat in AD531 the city was forced to pay a large tribute to ensure peace. One year later, there
was a huge riot in Constantinople between two factions called the Blues and the Greens.
The result was considerable damage to the city and a massacre of 30,000 of the rioters. This
indirectly led to a massive building spree which saw the construction of the Basilica Cistern
which helped secure the city’s water supply, and several ecclesiastical buildings including the
gigantic Hagia Sophia.
All this made Constantinople one of the greatest cities in the world and this renewed vigor in
development saw it re-conquer Italy, southern Spain, and North Africa to again rule a huge
empire.
If the city felt content with all this, it was being delusional. The Persians retook Syria, Egypt and
much of North Africa in the early years of the 7th century and eventually reached the shores of
the Bosphorus at the ancient Greek settlement of Chalcedon. This caused the Byzantine emperor
Heraclius to fight and defeat the Persians so they never recovered.
There was soon a new threat, however. Islamic armies swept out of Arabia around AD637 and
quickly took over most of the area recaptured from the Persians. By AD674, they were at the
gates of Constantinople and it was not until AD718 that they were finally completely repulsed
from the city.
The next three centuries saw dangers from the Slavs, Avars, and Serbs but the Byzantine Empire
endured. The Bulgars were twice repelled in the 9th and 10th centuries and were finally defeated
in AD1014 when 15,000 prisoners were blinded and sent home before the Byzantines
incorporated the Bulgar lands into their empire.
There had been a long-running dispute between Rome and Constantinople over Christian
doctrinal differences and competing spheres of influence and this finally reached a head in
AD1054 when the Pope in Rome declared the Patriarch of Constantinople a heretic. This caused
a final schism between the Catholic and Orthodox churches which has never been repaired.

The Coming of the Turks

Nomadic tribes from central Asia had been moving west from the 8th century onwards. By the
end of the 9th century, many had converted to Islam following their encounters with the Arabs.
One tribe, the Selçuks, defeated the Byzantine army in AD1071 and established their capital at
Konya in what is now central Turkey. The Selçuks, however, left Constantinople alone and the
Byzantine Empire remained in reduced form.
The 11th – 13th century crusades, conducted by Catholic Europe against Muslims and others, were
disastrous for Constantinople. The First Crusade bypassed the city, but in 1175, during the
Second Crusade, Frederick Barbarossa, a German who had been made Holy Roman Emperor by
the Pope, encouraged the Byzantines to attack the Selçuks.
The Selçuks won a decisive battle and this encouraged the Balkan states to secede from the
Byzantine Empire. Shortly after, the Norman’s captured the empire’s second largest city,
Salonica, which is present day Thessalonica. On the Third Crusade in 1187, Adrianople, which is
modern day Edirne, was captured and Byzantine was in trouble.
The Fourth Crusade which was backed by the Doge of Venice was aimed at capturing
Constantinople. Galata on the north side of the Golden Horn was captured in 1203 and in 1204
the invaders penetrated the sea walls and ransacked the city. The wealth and cultural icons of the
city were shipped west or simply destroyed, and the Doge of Venice and Count Baldwin IX of
Flanders as Latin Emperor jointly ruled what was left.
Despite the loss of Constantinople, the Byzantine Empire struggled on. A new capital was
established at Nicaea, about 100 km to the south-east and in 1261 the emperor managed to retake
Constantinople from the Latins. The next 190 years saw Constantinople go through a mini-
renaissance but in the end, its demise was inevitable.

Final invasion
The Muslim Ottomans were a semi-nomadic Turkish tribal grouping that had settled in what is
now north-central Turkey. Several strong leaders extended their territory and in 1326 the
important Byzantine city of Proussa was captured.
This became the capital of a mini-kingdom which slowly expanded by capturing more of the
Byzantine lands until it reached Chrysopolis opposite Constantinople on the Asian side of the
Bosphorus. In 1394, the Ottomans besieged Constantinople but thanks to its massive walls it
survived.
The Ottomans then started planning a better campaign against the city. In 1397, they built the
Anadolu Hisari fortress on the Asian side of the Bosphorus. The campaign was interrupted for 50
years by a Mongol invasion of Ottoman lands but after this was overcome, the invasion plans
continued. Rumeli Hisari, a fortress on the European side of the Bosphorus, was constructed in
1452 and this gave the Ottomans control of the strait.
They also built a substantial navy and placed this in the Sea of Marmara to the south of the city.
In reply, Constantinople stretched a huge chain across the Golden Horn to stop the entry of
Ottoman ships but the Ottomans rolled the ships over the hills of Galata and into the sea beyond
the chain.

Rumeli Hisari
For seven weeks the Ottomans pounded the walls of the city with cannon and eventually they
were breached. Constantinople had fallen to the Ottoman Turks.

The Ottoman Empire

Sultan Mehmet set about restoring the city. He brought in new immigrants from rural areas,
rebuilt roads, sewers and water supply works, and built the Topkapi Palace. Many mosques were
built across the city with the huge Fatih Camii, probably the most notable. The city walls were
rebuilt, the massive fortification of Yedikule added to them, and the walls around the semi-
independent enclave of Galata were removed.
The empire expanded at a rapid rate with Greece, Albania, most of Serbia and Bosnia-
Herzegovina added. The Ottoman fleet became the leading power in the Mediterranean but
Persia remained a problem to the east. Islam had split into two groups following a dispute as to
who was the rightful successor to the prophet Mohammad.
Selim 1, the Ottoman sultan was a Sunni Muslim while Shah Ismail of Persia was a Shi’ite.
Ismail was encouraging the Shi’ite population of Anatolia (Asian Turkey) to question Selim’s
rule so Selim acted against Persia. He killed 40,000 shi’ites in Anatolia before marching east and
defeating the Persians in 1514. He then went on to conquer Mesopotamia, Syria, and Egypt.
This meant that the Ottomans now controlled both Mecca and Medina and also the caliph, the
spiritual leader of the Islamic world. The Ottoman rulers now saw themselves as both sultan and
caliph.
The empire continued to expand and in 1529 the Turks reached the gates of Vienna. They were
clearly the leading world power of the 16th century and they used the revenue raised throughout
the empire to glorify their great capital, Istanbul. During the reign of Süleyman, Istanbul was
enhanced with several mosques by renowned architect Sinan. His Süleymaniye mosque complex
is still one of the city’s great sights.
In 1536, the French signed a treaty giving French nationals in Istanbul the right to be judged by
their own consuls under foreign law. This was later extended to other European nations and so
several built prisons and other facilities in the city.
Süleyman, however, also started the destruction of the empire by marrying his favorite
concubine and then moving the harem from the old palace into the Topkapi Palace. He was
succeeded by his son Selim II who was considered a weak leader.
Selim II apparently was the first Sultan without any great military interest and it is claimed
enjoyed orgies and debauches. Just how accurate this is, is difficult to say but there is little doubt
that he and several successors became increasingly detached from the people and the empire.
In the late 16th and early 17th centuries, there were battles with the Persians in which the
Ottomans lost, and then regained, Baghdad. In Europe, there were disastrous battles with the
Austrians and the empire lost Hungary and some other eastern European territories by treaty.
At the start of the 18th century, there was a renaissance in Istanbul during the so-called Tulip
Period. The sultan set up a press to print books in Ottoman Turkish, some important Baroque
structures were constructed, and thousands of tulip bulbs were imported and planted in the palace
grounds.
In the later years of the century, the Ottomans suffered several defeats particularly at the hands of
the Russians and this led to calls for reform and technology improvements.
A rebellion in Serbia, a war with the Greeks, and the succession of Egypt from the empire
hurried the reforms along. From 1839 to 1876 a series of reforms led to a fairly modern
conscripted army, an improved banking system, the general replacement of religious law with
secular law, and the declaration of full equality between the empire’s Muslim and non-Muslim
inhabitants. The sultan moved from the Topkapi Palace to the grandiose European-style
Dolmabahçe Palace.
The reforms caused something of an economic revival, particularly in Istanbul. A bridge was
built across the Golden Horn, the Tünel underground railway was constructed, and European-
style apartment blocks, cafés, and bars appeared, primarily in Galata. When the famous Orient
Express brought rich Europeans to Istanbul in 1888, new hotels were constructed to
accommodate them.
While the private sector was booming, the State was struggling. The Crimean War had weakened
the empire and the sultan’s extravagant spending plunged the State into debt. Revolts were
occurring in Lebanon, Crete, Montenegro, and Bulgaria and the brutal suppression of these
turned most European powers against the Ottomans.
Russia attacked the Ottomans in 1877 and this resulted in great territorial losses. Romania,
Montenegro, and Serbia achieved independence, Bosnia-Herzegovina came under Austrian
control and Bulgaria gained autonomy.
In the 1880s, the sultan became increasingly paranoid and Islamic. In the 1890s, the mainly
Christian Armenians were growing tired of their status as second-class citizens and continued
their push for more rights. That push was met with a violent response from the Sultan and in the
ensuing battles between 1894 and 1896, it was reported that as many as 200,000 Armenians were
killed.
Also at this time, a new movement based largely on army personnel had arisen to challenge the
sultan. This was known as the Committee for Union and Progress (CUP) and it was more
interested in Turkish nationalism than Pan-Islam. The sultan was deposed in 1909 and replaced
by a figurehead but the real power now lay with the CUP. In 1913 the CUP staged a coup and
established a military junta and in 1914 it signed an alliance with Germany.
The Turkish army had a disastrous campaign against the Russians in 1914-15 but a successful
resistance of the Dardanelles against British and Commonwealth forces. The Turks believed that
Armenians living in Turkey had helped the Russians so Armenians who were in the Turkish
army were rounded up and subsequently killed.
In addition, some 250 Armenian intellectuals were also killed before the entire Armenian
population was forced to relocate to what is now Syria. In the process, the total number of people
killed has been estimated at between 1 and 1.5 million. The victory at Gallipoli made a hero of a
young army officer and CUP member, Mustafa Kemal but the Ottoman Empire surrendered to
the Allies in 1918 and the British occupied Istanbul.

An Independent Turkey
The Ottoman Empire was shattered with various parts now occupied by the French, Italians, the
British, and the Greeks. Nevertheless, there were still bands of Turkish patriots who refused to
accept the situation and under the leadership of Mustafa Kemal they successfully battled the
occupying forces. In 1920, the Nationalists established their own parliament in Ankara and in
1922 they routed the Greek army.
The Nationalists then abolished the sultanate and signed the Treaty of Lausanne which
recognized the present borders. Some 1.3 million Greek Orthodox Christians were sent to Greece
and most of the Muslim Turkish population of Greece was sent to Turkey. Significantly, the
Greek Orthodox population of Istanbul was exempted and many of them stayed.
Kemal declared a secular Republic of Turkey on October 29, 1923, with its capital in Ankara and
he and the Republican People’s Party (CHP) set about a drastic program of reforms. Religious
schools were closed, the fez was outlawed, alcohol was legalized, Sunday rather than Friday
became the official day of rest, and polygamy was banned. The Gregorian calendar replaced the
Islamic one and the Arabic alphabet was replaced by a Latin one.
In 1930, the name Constantinople was banned and in 1934 all Turks were required to adopt
surnames and Kemal became Atatürk or ‘Father of the Turks’. There were several assassination
attempts on Atatürk but his death came in 1938 from natural causes while he was in the
Dolmabahçe Palace in Istanbul.
Atatürk was succeeded by Ismet Inonu, a skillful diplomat. He signed neutrality pacts with
Britain and France and a non-aggression treaty with Nazi Germany and this kept Turkey out of
World War II. At the end of the war, Turkey allied itself with the Western Powers and received
considerable help from Marshal Plan aid. In the 1950 election, the Democrat Party led by Adnan
Menderes came to power and there was an economic boom.
By 1953, however, this was faltering and an increasingly isolated Menderes started agitating
against the Istanbul Greek population. Government-aligned demonstrations got out of hand in
1955 with mobs attacking Greek property and most of the city’s Greek Orthodox Christian
population left. In 1960, the military staged a coup, the Democrat Party was banned and
Menderes and two others were hanged for treason while others were jailed.
A new constitution was written and in 1961 Ismet Inonu became prime minister and Cemal
Gures, a general, became president. The 1960s saw political parties proliferate and polarization
of the nation occurred. There were street battles and university violence and in 1971 the military
again stepped in.
Street fighting and actions by the large Kurdish minority and an openly Islamic political party
continued and got worse during the 1970s and it was almost inevitable that there would be
another military coup. This occurred in 1980.
A new military junta was formed and this placed the country under martial law. Political parties
were closed down, universities purged of radicals, trade unions banned, and a new restrictive
constitution proclaimed. The junta ruled for three years and at the end the Motherland Party led
by Turgut Ozal gained power.
He introduced sweeping economic changes, eased restrictions on Islam, and allowed Islamic
schools. His major problem was with the Kurds in south-east Turkey and a major war was
underway with the Kurdish Workers Party (PKK).
During the 1990s, the conflict continued and hundreds of thousands of poor villagers settled on
the outskirts of Istanbul and some other cities. At the same time, there was a real change in the
political landscape with Islamic parties coming to the fore. The Refah party came to power in
Istanbul, Ankara, and some other towns in the 1994 municipal elections and won the 1996
general elections.
Despite fears that this would lead to radical change, Turkey signed a military treaty with Israel
and allowed the U.S. continued use of Turkish air bases. Despite this, in 1997 the prime minister
was forced to step down and the Refah party was dissolved.
In 1998, a new party, Fazilet was formed with the mayor of Istanbul, Recep Erdoğan one of its
leading lights. It didn’t last long and was banned in June 2001 for violating the secularist articles
of the Constitution. In 2002, one of its replacements, the reformist Justice and Development Part
(AKP), achieved a parliamentary majority.
This was repeated again in 2007 and in 2011, the first time in the history of the Turkish Republic
that a party was elected for a third successive term. Erdoğan was prime minister from 2003 to
2014 and he worked hard to reduce the power of the army. In 2014, he became the 12th and
current President of Turkey.
During this period, the country developed more tolerant towards the green, feminist, and gay
rights movements although there is still considerable tension. The large, overwhelmingly secular
Alevis minority has emerged from semi-hiding, while the Kurds in the general population
probably enjoy greater freedom than they have for 80 years.
The first round of general elections held in Turkey in June 2015 threw the country's politics into
unprecedented territory. For the first time in 13 years, the AKP party failed to win a majority of
parliamentary seats, meaning it could no longer form a single-party government.
Additionally, the HDP party became the first openly pro-Kurdish political party in history to run
as a party — rather than field independent candidates — and break the country's 10 per cent
voter threshold required to gain parliamentary seats.
After a considerable period of uncertainty, a further election was held in November 2015. The
election resulted in the AKP regaining a Parliamentary majority following a 'shock' victory.
Prior to the election, growing censorship of pro-opposition media outlets attracted both national
and international concern and thousands of journalists, as well as members from numerous
journalism associations, held a demonstration at Taksim Square to protest the growing
censorship of the press.
In recent times, there has been a significant expansion in prosperity resulting in a more
complicated culture. You see this in Istanbul more than anywhere else in the country. But there
are dark clouds as well. There are growing fears of an Islamist takeover of aspects of life that
have long been secular. The government is continuing its crackdown on the opposition and the
media, taking over newspapers and imposing censorship.
The gap between rich and poor seems to be growing and the government is increasingly
autocratic. This caused riots in mid-2013 and protest marches late 2013 that caused great damage
to Erdoğan and the government at the time, however, there appears to be little lasting result.
The city’s population continues to rapidly expand and has now reached something like 18
million. A third bridge across the Bosphorus, and a new road tunnel have been completed, and
there are plans for a grandiose scheme to build a mega-canal from the Black Sea to the Sea of
Marama to relieve the currently congested strait.
Two satellite cities are planned north of the metropolis to avoid further overcrowding but there
are doubts about the cost and effectiveness of these latter projects.
The war in Syria has resulted in a refugee problem in Turkey and it seems to have given the
government a new excuse to wage a further campaign against the more radical Kurdish elements.
Turkey’s relationship with Russia deteriorated and was then restored by agreements on Syria, but
there is an uneasy relationship with the European Union despite Turkey’s desire to join this
organization in the future.
In July 2016, a coup d’etat was attempted. The attempt was carried out by a faction within the
Turkish Armed Forces that organized themselves as the Peace at Home Council. The
government accused the coup leaders of being linked to the Gülen Movement, which is
designated as a terrorist organization by the Republic of Turkey and is led by Fethullah Gülen, a
Turkish cleric who lives in the United States.
During the coup, over 300 people were killed and more than 2,100 were injured. More than
100,000 teachers, judges, public servants, and others have since been purged. The coup seems to
have emboldened Erdoğan to seek greater power.
In 2017 reforms were passed which, among other measures, abolished the position of Prime
Minister and designated the President as both head of state and government, effectively
transforming Turkey from a parliamentary regime into a presidential one. The current President
of the Republic is Recep Tayyip Erdoğan, who was Prime Minister from 2003 to 2014,
Many observers are concerned about a possible concentration of power in the hands of one man
and an on-going dispute with the European Union which Turkey says it wants to join. This
coupled with a prolonged slide in Turkey’s economic fortunes in 2018 and 2019, and, finally, the
coronavirus pandemic of 2020/2021 has shaken many in the country.
In mid-2021, a man named Sedat Peker lit up the country with a series of YouTube videos
containing spectacular allegations connecting senior government officials, including the interior
minister, to drug running, murder, and corruption. Peker—who is a figure in the Turkish mafia—
has not fingered Erdogan directly, but he has strongly implied that the Turkish leader was
involved.
Turkey’s political trajectory is not at all clear. Despite all the challenges it confronts, the Justice
and Development Party remains the single most popular political organization in the country and
Erdogan the most powerful person.
Chapter 7 - GETTING AROUND

Most international flights used to arrive at Istanbul Atatürk Airport, 20 km west of the city
center. There is also a second airport, Sabiha Gökçen International Airport, located on the
Asian side of the city. This is fine if you are staying locally but it is not nearly as convenient if
you are staying in the Sultanahmet area.
A major new airport opened late October 2018 and this has replaced Atatürk Airport for all
commercial passenger flights. Now simply called Istanbul Airport it is 35 kilometers north
from central Istanbul. Six runways will be developed and delivered in four phases. Terminal 1
features a large suspended roof and is the world’s largest airport terminal under one roof.
The airport is expected to be the largest airport in the world when fully completed in 2023, and
will serve as Turkey's primary airport and a hub for connecting flights between Europe and Asia.
There are many alternatives to reach to the city center from the Istanbul New Airport.
Unfortunately, there is no subway access to Istanbul New Airport at this time. However, the
construction of the Metro continues rapidly and the Metro line is aimed to be launched
sometime early in 2022. When the line opens you will be able to reach Gayrettepe Station using
the “M11: Istanbul Airport-Gayrettepe high-speed Metro line”.
By transferring to “M2: Yenikapı-Taksim-Gayrettepe-Hacıosman Metro line” at Gayrettepe
station, you can reach Taksim Square directly. You can also reach Haliç, Süleymaniye, Beyazit,
Lalali and Yenikapı by using this M2 Metro Line. You can also transfer to Marmaray from
Yenikapı Station. You can reach Sirkeci/Eminönü and Üsküdar by using Marmaray.
A second metro line is also under construction between the airport and Halkali. This will then
provide a link to the city center with a travel time of about 30 minutes.
HAVAİST shuttle buses serve about 20 different routes from the airport. The main routes for
visitors are Istanbul Airport to Taksim, and Istanbul Airport to Sirkeci/Eminönü. Both take about
40 minutes with a fare of 30 TL and operate at 15-minute intervals. The bus station on floor -2 is
where you buy tickets.
You should purchase a rechargeable Istanbulkart (10 TL) if you plan to use public transport,
which you need to top up in order to use the smart card. You can do this at the HAVAİST ticket
counters and biletmatik machines in yellow and blue colours.
You can reach all areas of Istanbul by using taxis. All taxi drivers licensed to use the airport
speak English and you can pay by credit card for the taxi fare. In addition, thanks to the
information screens found in the vehicles, passengers are able to reach information such as
“driver information“, “route/location information“, and “instantaneous traffic intensity
information“.
A taxi takes 45-60 minutes with a fare of around 180 TL but if you hit traffic, the time and fare
can increase significantly. Make sure that you have written down the exact address of your hotel
and its telephone number, because there are thousands of hotels, and taxi drivers don’t know
them all by heart.
There are many car rental offices in Istanbul Airport. In Turkey, car rental fees on average start
at 150-200 TL per day. I recommend that you also purchase a navigation device when renting a
car.
In the future, Istanbul Airport will have a fast railway connection via the Yavuz Sultan Selim
Bridge, allowing people to travel quickly between the European and Asian part of Turkey. The
rail connection will provide a direct connection by public transportation between Istanbul Airport
and Istanbul Sabiha Gokcen Airport on the Asian side. Currently this route is served by BB
buses.
 Istanbul public transport map
Ferry
İDO is Istanbul’s main ferry and sea-bus company. It operates both regular ferries (vapur) and a
fleet of high-speed catamaran sea buses (deniz otobüsü). For most trips, you don’t need to make
reservations. To travel, you can either buy a token (jeton) or ticket (bilet) from the booth at the
pier or use your Istanbul Card. You can find timetable booklets in English at most ferry terminals
or online.
Istanbul Deniz Otobüsleri (IDO) (https://www.ido.com.tr/en) was Istanbul’s official sea bus, fast
ferry, and regular ferry company owned by the Greater Istanbul Metropolitan Council until it
was privatized in 2011. It is still the largest ferry operator in the city.
Many visitors find Eminönü at the Galata Bridge to be the most convenient terminal. There are
four piers with clearly marked destinations. Across the Golden Horn, there are terminals at
Karaköy, Kabataş, and Beşiktaş.
On the Asian side, the main piers are located in Kadıköy (with services to Beşiktaş, Eminönü,
Karaköy and the Princes’ Islands) and in Üsküdar (with services to Beşiktaş, Eminönü, and
Kabataş). Services are frequent at all these piers and on board you can sit inside or outside on the
deck and enjoy a tea or snacks.
Another smaller ferry company, Turyol (https://www.turyol.com/), services Eminönü, Kabataş
Karaköy, Üsküdar, HaydarPaşa, and Kadıköy, among others.

Fast Ferries or Sea Buses

These operate on longer transport routes. Internally they resemble aircraft cabins and are air-
conditioning. The main docks are Bostancı and Kadıköy on the Asian side, and Kabataş,
Yenikapı, and Bakırköy on the European side. Most visitors will only use sea buses to reach the
Princes’ Islands from the Kabataş pier.

Bus
There are public buses run by the private sector and by the city-owned İETT but this difference
hardly matters to most tourists. The major bus stands are at Taksim Square, Beşiktaş, Aksaray,
Rüstempaşa, Kadıköy and Üsküdar. Most buses operate between 6 a.m. and around midnight. I
find it difficult to understand which route many buses take so I am very selective in riding them.
There is a 50 km Metrobus rapid transit route with 45 stations which follows the city's ring-road
using dedicated bus lanes but this has little relevance to most visitors.

Metro (underground railway)

Istanbul's metro currently consists of seven lines (including the Levent ↔ Boğaziçi
Üniversitesi/Hisarüstü light metro line) although only two have any real interest to visitors.
There are 104 stations in operation with 64 more under construction.
The northern line (M2) connects Yenikapi in the Old City to Hacıosman via Taksim Square, and
Mecidiyeköy and Levent in the business district. This has become a very useful connection since
the completion of the Golden Horn Metro bridge. At Yenikapı it connects with the extended M1
metro and the suburban rail lines.
The southern line (M1), connecting Yenikapi to the old Atatürk Airport, via the main coach
station (Otogar), has 18 stations along its length. This was the first metro line in the city and it
runs both below and above ground. There is also a branch line to Kirazlı.
The Kirazlı-Başakşehir-Olimpiyat metro line (M3) opened in 2012. The route splits to form a 'Y'
at the İkitelli Sanayi station providing a total of 11 stations.
On the Asian side, construction is continuing on the remaining portion of the 26.5 km long M4
line from Kadıköy near the ferry terminal to Kaynarca. Currently, trains operate only as far as
Tavşantepe serving 19 stations. This line is being extended to Sabiha Gökçen Airport.
Construction has started on further lines and others are in the planning stages. Istanbul Metro is
connected with Marmaray and F1 Funicular underground systems and T1 tram ground system.

Funicular Railway
A useful funicular system connects Taksim Square to Kabataş where there are ferries to the
Asian side of the city, and trams bound for the Old City. The modern air-conditioned funicular
ride takes only 2.5 minutes. From Kabataş you can walk to the Dolmahbaçe Palace.
The Tünel is another short funicular that connects Karaköy and Beyoğlu. It was opened in 1875
and is the second-oldest underground urban rail line in the world and the first subterranean urban
rail line in continental Europe. The length is 555 m and it climbs a height of about 62 m. in 90
seconds. The electrified cars run on pneumatic tires.
From the upper terminal you can easily reach Galata by walking downhill or have a stroll on
Istiklal Caddesi.
Tram
There are both modern and ancient trams in the city. The ancient ones are fun to ride while the
modern ones provide essential transport and are probably the most used public transport by
visitors.
An air-conditioned tram (T1) connects Bağcılar through Zeytinburnu, where there is a
connection to the metro line to the airport, to Kabataş, with its ferry terminal and its connection
to the underground funicular to Taksim. The line is 14 km long, has 24 stations and serves many
popular tourist sites in Sultanahmet and ferries at Eminönü.
Popular tourist stops are Laleli Üniversitesi (Süleymaniye Mosque), Beyazıt (Grand Bazaar),
Cemberlitaş (famous hamam), Sultanahmet, Eminönü (Spice Market, New Mosque, and
Bosphorus cruises), Karaköy with connection to Tünel, and Tophane (Istanbul Modern museum).
It is a popular line with visitors but during morning and evening rush hours, tram cars are jam-
packed.
There is also another tram line linking residential and industrial suburbs in the northwest. T4
links Topkapi (on T1 line) with Sultançiftliği and Mescid-i-Selam.
A two-stop antique tram runs along Istiklal Caddesi between Tünel and Taksim Squares in
Beyoğlu. A vintage tram also runs between Kadıköy Square on the Asian side and the exclusive
residential suburb of Moda.
 Istiklal Caddesi antique tram
Suburban Train
Suburban/commuter trains (banliyö treni) using somewhat dilapidated stock and running on the
national rail network, connected suburbs along the European and Asian coast of the Sea of
Marmara to main stations at Sirkeci (15 stations to Halkali) and HaydarPaşa, (25 stations to
Osmangazi) respectively. These have now been mainly redeveloped or superceded by the
Marmara project.
The Marmara project (see below) has connected these two lines and has rehabilitated the
suburban lines and rolling stock to a modern commuter system.
Aerial tramways
There are two short routes which have some visitor appeal. One is across the valley from Maçka
to Taskisla while the other is up the hill from Eyüp to Piyer Loti.

Taxi
Taxis are sometimes an easy and cheap way to get around. Traffic can be very bad, however, so
it can take an hour for a few kilometers through the old city. At these times the tram is a better
proposition. There are stories about taxi drivers who are lunatics and others that are con artists,
but in my experience, most are neither. Many of the taxis that wait near hotels, bus stations or
long-distance ferry terminals, however, seem like a tourist trap.
Empty cabs on the streets can be hailed by pedestrians by making eye contact with the driver and
waving. Though taxis are plentiful, be aware that it can still be difficult to find a taxi during peak
traffic hours and when it is raining or snowing.
Taxi drivers use cars affiliated with a particular hub, and the name and phone number of the hub,
as well as the license plate number, are written on the side of each car. Noting or photographing
this information may be useful if you run into problems.
Most taxi drivers understand basic English although it is helpful to have your destination's name
in Turkish written down. All official taxis have a taximeter and there is just one rate both day
and night. Tipping is generally unnecessary but a rounding up will be appreciated. Most taxis do
not have seatbelts so accept that and hang on. If you catch a taxi over the Bosphorus bridges, you
pay the toll.

Dolmuş
This is a shared taxi, traveling on a fixed route, with fares somewhere between a city bus and a
normal taxi. They can carry up to 8 passengers. They are painted yellow like taxis and carry a
dolmuş sign on top. They will only start driving when all seats are filled. You can see
destinations from the sign on the front window. You pay the fare to the driver and note that the
Istanbul Card is not accepted.

Marmaray Project
This is a huge rail transport project that has transformed public transport in the city. It consists of
the construction of an undersea rail tunnel under the Bosphorus as well as the modernization of
existing suburban rail lines along the Sea of Marmara for the 76 km from Halkali on the
European side to Gebze on the Asian side.
The 14 km section between Kazlıçeşme station on the European side and the Ayrılık çeşme
station on the Asian side went into service in 2013. New underground stations have been built at
Yenikapi, Sirkeci, and Üsküdar. The stations at Yenikapi and Ayrilik connect with the Istanbul
Metro. There is also a connection with the Istanbul-Ankara speed rail route and connections to
extended metro lines.
The second stage of the project was the renewal of current ground-level railways between Gebze
and Ayrılık çeşme on the Asian side, and between Kazliçeşme and Halkali on the European side.
There are forty three stations along the line. High-speed trains from Ankara now terminate at
Halkali.
Eurasia Tunnel

This is a road tunnel under the Bosphorus Strait. The project was completed in December 2016.
The 5.4 km double-deck tunnel connects Kazliçeşme on the European and Göztepe on the Asian
part of Istanbul. It is at about 1 km south of the undersea Marmaray railway tunnel, which was
opened in 2013.

The Istanbulkart
I believe that buying an Istanbulkart is a smart idea if you are in Istanbul for more than a day or
two, and intend to use public transport to get around. The Istanbulkart is a plastic card that can be
used as a ticket on buses, trams, suburban trains, metro, and even the cross-Bosphorus ferries.
You touch the Istanbulkart to a reader when you get on the bus or enter the tram/metro/train
platform.
You can buy or refill them at designated booths located at any major bus, tram, to metro station,
as well as some other places such as newspaper stands close to bus stops. An Istanbulkart gives a
flat fare of 3 TL for the first ride, which is a cheaper option in comparison to tokens used on the
Metro and trams (jeton, 5 TL). It is also 5.20 TL to the Princes’ Islands, instead of 8 TL for a
token.
Istanbulkart also allows discounts when used multiple times within roughly an hour and a half
since the last time you used it. There are many types of Istanbul cards, but the one most suitable
for tourists is the anonymous (anonim) card, without a picture.
A deposit for the device itself is payable when you buy it (10 TL + any top-up), which is not
refundable, and neither is any credit left at the end of your visit so you need to consider this.

Walking
Walking is the best way to tour in historically rich cities wherever you travel in the world and
Istanbul is no exception. Parts of the city are quite hilly but there are several easy walks that you
should consider.
If you start a walk from Sultanahmet Square, you can easily visit Hagia Sophia, the Blue
Mosque, the Hippodrome, Divanyolu Street, Cemberlitas, and the Grand Bazaar. Then, you can
go towards Sirkeci via Uzun Carsi Street. Sirkeci is the best place for local restaurants and
dessert shops and you can the visit the Spice Bazaar at Eminonu afterward.
In recent years, walking tours that include Fener and Balat have become popular. These tours
usually start in front of the Kadir Has University at Cibali and end in the Balat neighborhood.
There is no reason why you can’t do a walk in this area independently and this allows you to
walk alongside historical city walls and take photos of the gates of the city walls.
Then, you can visit Fener Greek Orthodox Church, take a meal break at one of the cafes and
restaurants around the streets that surrounds the Patriarchal Church and take some amazing
photos on Merdivenli Yokus (Stairlift Slope) which many consider the most beautiful street in
Istanbul.
There are really interesting walking routes in Beyoglu such as Cukurcuma Street (Cihangir),
Mesrutiyet Street (Pera), and Serdar-i Ekrem Street (Galata). It will take a whole day to walk
Istiklal Avenue and nearby streets enjoying the 19th century feel.
Chapter 8 - THINGS to CONSIDER

Visas
Most visitors need a visa to enter Turkey. Turkey has a system of e-visas
(https://www.evisa.gov.tr/en/) which allows you to apply for and receive your tourist visa online
from home. You go to the website (www.evisa.gov.tr), provide the required information, use
your credit card to pay, and print out your visa.
Currently, citizens of just under 100 countries are eligible to get an Electronic Visa. Citizens of
about 40 countries can obtain multi-entry e-visas.

When to go
April to May and September to October are the best times to visit Istanbul. Temperatures are
moderate and there is unlikely to be much rain. July and August are hot and steamy and some
businesses close. Snow and cold winds are common in winter and many tourist services cut back
to almost nothing.
An umbrella is recommended during spring, autumn, and winter, and during the summer to avoid
the sun and occasionally the rain. Don’t worry if you don’t have one because the streets are
suddenly filled by umbrella sellers as soon as it starts raining.

Safety
The ideal way to explore Istanbul is on foot, but you need to be aware of traffic, pick-pockets,
and other dangers while you are doing it. Some streets have very small sidewalks, but avoid
walking on the streets because of cars, motor cycles, and bicycles and to avoid being targeted by
motor bike bag snatchers.
Likewise, only get off the bus when it has reached a designated stop because traffic will pass on
both sides of the vehicle if it can. It is always wise to use the pedestrian crossings, overpasses,
and underpasses, even if this means making a small detour. Istanbul cars will not stop to let you
cross the street.
Most Turks are very honest but you’ll always find a few with different intentions, so do what the
locals do. Keep your money safe by wearing a money belt under your shirt or at least keep your
wallet in the front pockets of your pants.
Women should hold handbags within eyesight between your arm and body and carry back-packs
on your front, not your back, making sure all the zippers are properly closed. Never leave bags or
other valuables such as mobile phones, tablets, etc. where they can be grabbed by anyone passing
by.
Istanbul, just like every world city, has typical tourist scams. You should be aware of two
popular ones. If you are a man, a well-dressed local, fluent in English, will approach you and try
to start a conversation. If you’re a smoker he’ll ask you for a lighter and if you’re sitting alone at
a terrace table, he may sit down at the table next to you and start a conversation this way.
The bottom line is he will ask whether you would like to join him for some after-work drinks in a
great place owned by a friend of his. If you agree you will end up in a bar with overpriced drinks
and underdressed women and a huge bill.
If you are a woman, a friendly guy will ask if you are lost and need some help in locating some
of the sightseeing spots and/or Grand Bazaar shops. And as he ‘guides’ you, he’ll pass one of his
shops and remember he had to drop something off. He will, of course, invite you in to meet his
family.
Before you know it, you’ll be drinking tea, listening to how only they still make quality leather
or carpets, and why you should buy something there. It is a near certainty that you won’t be
getting any bargains.
Woman need to be more careful than men in determining where they go alone. Some Istanbul
men regard a single woman walking in certain areas as a prostitute or at least ‘available’. There
have been reports of foreign women being raped and killed, and young, attractive women have
been kidnapped and forced into prostitution. This is not likely to happen in busy streets, but
avoid quiet, narrow streets at night.

Health and Medicines

Many medicines, including antibiotics, which require prescriptions in western countries, are
freely available in any Istanbul pharmacy (Eczane). Pharmacists normally speak some English,
but there can still be a communication problem, so if you are on any medication, bring the
generic name with you, not just the brand name.
Before leaving home, make sure your health insurance covers medical treatments in Turkey.
Turkey has both public and private hospitals. Private doctor’s offices are not common and they
will expect you to pay upfront. Private hospitals, some of which are world-class, are where you’ll
want to go in emergencies and these can be quite expensive.
Diarrhea is common when you travel to a new country with different food and water standards to
your home. This can severely curtail your activities and can ruin a holiday so it is wise to take
extra precautions.
The tap water in Istanbul is generally considered safe to drink but I suggest as a visitor you avoid
tap water where possible and eat fresh vegetables only if they have been cooked. Buffet meals in
small places can be risky because the food may not have been kept hot enough. If you develop
diarrhea, drink plenty of fluids and take some medication.
The following is a list of emergency numbers that are available 24/7 in case of an emergency.
112 Medical emergency/ Ambulance
110 Fire
155 Police
154 Traffic
156 Gendarmerie (military police)
113 Medical care
114 Poison emergencies
There is a "Tourism Police" department where travelers may report passport loss and theft or any
other criminal activity. They have an office at Yerebatan Caddesi 6, Sultanahmet (in the yellow
wooden building between Hagia Sophia and the entrance of Basilica Cistern) and can reportedly
speak English, German, French, and Arabic.

Internet access
Almost all travelers like to keep in touch with friends and family by email or social media while
traveling. Fortunately, most hotels offer either free or pay-for Wi-Fi, and you will find this
service also in ferry terminals and some bus stations.
If you don’t have your own device, internet cafés can still be found. You will discover that
Turkish keyboards are different to English ones. On some, to create the @ symbol in an email
address, you hold down the q and ALT keys at the same time.

Language
Turkish belongs to the Ural-Altaic language family and is only widely spoken in Turkey and
Northern Cyprus, so it’s unlikely that you will have any command of the language. It is not a
particularly difficult language to learn a few words, and any attempt to use them will be
welcomed by the locals. Here a few you could try. Even if you can’t pronounce them properly,
they will help in understand signs and menus.
Hello merhaba
Yes evet
No hayir
Please lutfen
Thank you tesekkur ederim
I don’t understand anlamiyorum
Hotel otel
Guest house misafirhane
Bathroom banyo
Breakfast kahvalti
Lunch ogle yemegi
Dinner aksam yemegi
Food yiyecek
Beef sigir eti
Chicken pilic
Lamb kuzu
Pork domuz eti
Fish balik
Bread ekmek
Coffee kahve
Tea cay
Beer bira
Wine sarap
The bill please hesap lutfen
Help! Imdat!
Call a doctor doctor cagirin

Money
The Turkish currency is the Turkish lira (TL). Coins come in amounts of 1, 5, 10, 25 and 50
kuruş and 1 lira, and notes in 5, 10, 20, 50, 100 and 200 lira.
The currency is not widely traded so it is a good idea to buy and sell the currency as you arrive
and depart the country. ATMs are widely available and they are the best source of local currency,
but you may not be able to change any remaining lira back into another currency at the end of
your trip without a receipt.
Most ATMs have English instructions and will pay out Turkish liras when you insert your bank
debit card or Visa and MasterCard credit card. Look for stickers with Cirrus, Maestro, Plus
Systems etc. affixed to the machine. The lira has plunged by more than 30% against the US
dollar in 2021 follwing falls in 2020 and 2019. Inflation in Turkey is currently sitting around 20
per cent, sending the price of basic goods and tourism items skyrocketing.
Credit and debit cards are accepted by most businesses and Euros and US dollars are often
accepted by hotels and tourist-style restaurants.

Changing money
There are 24-hour exchange bureaux in the arrivals hall at the International Airport that appear to
offer rates similar to those in the city. US dollars, Euros, and some other currencies are easily
changed. Save your currency exchange receipts as you may need them to reconvert Turkish liras
at the end of your stay.
It's advisable to request bank notes in smaller denominations, as it can sometimes be hard to get
change from large notes, and smaller notes are handy for smaller purchases and gratuities.

Typical costs
Istanbul is no longer a great bargain travel destination, but it can still be good value for money.
Public transport is both efficient and cheap, and many of the city’s historical mosques are free.
Other attractions are generally relatively inexpensive. Hotels vary considerably in price but you
can find a decent room in a good location for around 600 TL (about US$50) and you can enjoy a
decent meal for 80 to 125 TL (US$7-10).
On the other hand, shopping in the major malls is little different to back home and if you decide
to hit the rooftop bars in Beyoğlu and nightclubs along the Bosphorus you’ll decide nothing is
cheap. Nightclub entries can be 80-120 TL and drinks will cost at least 45 TL.

Tipping
Tipping is customary in restaurants, hotels, and hamams and rounding up is common in taxis.
The amount depends on the level of the establishment: the more expensive, the higher the tip.
Adopting a range of 10-20% will generally be sufficient.

Electricity
Standard voltage is 230 - 240 volts. Primary sockets generally require the 3 round-pin variety,
similar though not identical to some European sockets. Greek sockets, which have been used in
the past, are of the 2 round-pin variety. We recommend that you pack a universal travel adaptor.
You will need a voltage converter, and plug adaptor in order to use U.S. appliances.

Time
Turkey is 2 hours ahead of Greenwich Mean Time (GMT). From the last Sunday in March to the
last Sunday in October, Turkey observes Daylight Saving and is 3 hours ahead of GMT.

Car rental
Most international driver's licenses are recognized in Turkey. Car rental companies require a
valid national or international license. Traffic keeps to the right-hand side of the road and you
must wear your seat belt at all times.

Your Government Help

While Istanbul is not the capital of Turkey and so the city contains no embassies, there are a
number of consulates which are useful to visitors. Here is a list:
Argentina, Asker Ocağı Cad. Süzer Plaza No:9; Tel: +90 212 243 11 70
Australia, Harbiye, Asker Ocağı Cad. Süzer Plaza; Tel: +90 212 393 85 42
Austria, Köybaşı Caddesi 46, Yeniköy; Tel: +90 212 363 84 10
Belgium, Sıraselviler Caddesi 39, Taksim; Tel: +90 212 243 2068
Brazil, Askeroğacı Caddesi, 6 - Süzer Plaza 4th floor - Elmadağ, Şişli; Tel: +90 212 252 00 13
Bulgaria, Ahmet Adnan Saygun Caddesi 44, Ulus-Levent; Tel: +90 212 281 01 15
Canada, 209 Buyukdere Caddesi 4 İstanbul TR, Tekfen Tower No:4; Tel: +90 212 385 97 00
China, Ahi Çelebi Cd. Çobançeşme Sk. 4, Tarabya; Tel: +90 212 299 21 88
Denmark, Kuştepe Mahallesi Büyükdere Caddesi Trump Towers 2; Tel: +90 212 359 19 00
Egypt, Cevdet Paşa Caddesi, No. 12, Bebek; Tel: +90 212 324 21 33
Finland, Nisbetiye Mah. Aydın Sok. No:6, D.8. 1.Levent; Tel: +90 212 296 95 49
France, Şehit Muhtar, İstiklal Cd. No:8; Tel: +90 212 334 87 30
Germany, İnönü Caddesi 10, Gümüşsuyu-Taksim; Tel: +90 212 334 61 00
Greece, Turnacıbaşı Sokak 22, Beyoğlu; Tel: +90 212 393 82 91
India, Harbiye, Cumhuriyet Cd. Dortler Apt. No:42 D:11-12; Tel: +90 212 296 21 31
Iran, Ankara Caddesi 1, Cağaloğlu: Tel: +90 212 513 82 30
Italy, Tomtom Kaptan Sokak 5, Beyoğlu; Tel: +90 212 243 10 24
Japan, Büyükdere Caddesi 209, Tekfen Tower 10th, 4. Levent; Tel: +90 212 317 46 00
Republic of Korea, Vişnezade, Süzer Plaza No:6; Tel: +90 212 368 83 68
Mexico, Levent, Lale Sokağı No:23; Tel: +90 212 284 10 03
Netherlands, İstiklal Caddesi 197, Beyoğlu; Tel: +90 212 393 21 21
New Zealand, Kocatepe, Taksim Cad. No:65; Tel: +90 212 244 02 72
North Macedonia, Inönü Caddesi. Üçler apt. 20/5 Gumussuyu/Taksim; Tel: +90 212 249 99 77
Norway, Bilezik Sokak 4, Fındıklı; Tel: +90 212 249 97 53
Pakistan, Konaklar, Akağaç Sokağı No:2; Tel: +90 212 324 58 27
Romania, Yanarsu Sokak, Narin Sitesi 42, Etiler; Tel: +90 212 358 35 41
Russia, Tomtom, İstiklal Cd. No:219 D:225A; Tel: +90 212 292 51 02
Spain, Karanfil Aralığı Sokak 16, 1. Levent; Tel: +90 212 270 74 10
Sweden, Şahkulu, İstiklal Cd., Beyoğlu; Tel: +90 212 334 06 00
Switzerland, Büyükdere Caddesi 173, 1.Levent Plaza A-Blok, Levent; Tel: +90 212 283 12 82
Syria, Harbiye, Maçka Cd. Ralli Apartmanı No:59; Tel: +90 212 232 67 21
British, Meşrutiyet Caddesi 34, Tepebaşı-Beyoğlu Tel: +90 212 334 64 00
United States of America, Poligon Cd. No:75, İstinye; Tel: +90 212 335 90 00

General Etiquette
It is always a wise idea to be aware of local customs when visiting a foreign country. Although
Istanbul is a cosmopolitan city, there are still a few things worth noting. Turks value respect, so
greet and acknowledge everyone you meet even though it may be someone you will never see
again. In hotels, speaking to house maids, barmen, and other staff will often lead to better
service.
Turks are generally honest so keep cool if you think the bill is not correct. While it is true that
there are some scam restaurants and bars, in other places it may just be a simple mistake that will
be corrected if you point it out in a quiet manner.
During previous periods, people have been jailed for expressing political views in public. That is
generally not the case today, but as a visitor it is a good idea to be tactful when discussing
politics. You may not agree with it but respect Turkish nationalist tendencies which have grown
stronger in recent times.
While you will see modern youths around town and there are bars and clubs selling alcohol and
playing Western pop music, underneath all this, many Istanbul residents are very conservative.
As a visitor, I suggest you leave the wild fashions at home, refrain from talking about extreme
Islam, and be particularly respectful around mosques.
Istanbul is predominantly Muslim. During the holy fast of Ramadan (throughout the month of
August) eating, drinking, and smoking during daylight hours should be as discreet as possible.
Chapter 9 - WHERE and WHAT to EAT

Enjoying the local food in Istanbul is one of the real joys of the city. There are many interesting
dishes in Turkish cuisine which is a mixture of western Asian, Middle Eastern, and Balkan
cuisines. Take the time to explore the menu or just drop into a local eatery and point to
something that looks good. You are unlikely to be disappointed. Here are a few suggested local
dishes.
Vegetable or Zeytin Yağlı Dishes
Turkey grows a wide variety of vegetables and thus vegetable dishes are popular. These are
called zeytin yağlı and are mostly served cold. Three examples are:
Yaprak Sarma —Rice, onions, and spices are wrapped in vine leaves.
Dolma — Eggplants, peppers, tomatoes or zucchinis are stuffed with rice, onion, and various
spices.
Taze Fasulye — Green beans cooked with tomatoes and onions.
Turkish Dishes with Meat
Lamb and beef are essential ingredients in many Turkish dishes and chicken has also become
popular. These are three good examples:
Karnıyarık —Minced meat, onion, fried eggplants, parsley, garlic, and tomato are combined.
Don’t miss trying this when in Istanbul.
Lahmacun — A flaky thin dough topped with finely minced meat, onions, and spices produces a
pizza-like dish. It is served with salad leaves.
Kurufasulye — White beans are cooked with thin slices of highly seasoned beef called pastırma
and served with rice and turşu (pickles and sauerkraut).
Best Known Dishes
Kebabs — Meat is placed on a skewer and grilled over a charcoal fire. You can choose lamb,
beef, or chicken.
Döner – Meat seasoned with suet, local herbs, and spices is skewered and grilled vertically.
Köfte — Ground meat is combined with crumbled bread, onions, and spices. Izgara Köfte, is
particularly popular where it is served with grilled green peppers, parsley, red peppers, and rice
or bread on the side.
Mantı – A dumpling-type dough is filled with ground beef or lamb and onion.
Side dishes
Mücver — Zucchini, eggs, and flour, are often combined with cheese, onions, and mint, then
lightly fried and served hot.
Cacık — Is a mixture of ground or shredded cucumbers with yogurt, garlic, and mint served
cold.
Turkish Breakfast
You can enjoy your bacon and eggs in your hotel for breakfast but one morning be brave and
head to a local café to eat what the Turks do. You will be very pleasantly surprised. For starters,
a well-prepared tea is a must. Few locals drink coffee for breakfast.
Breakfast is built around bread. Plain white bread is popular, but different kinds of grain breads
like rye are available. To this, you add white cheese (similar to feta), old cheese (kaşar peyniri),
olives (zeytin), butter, honey, jam, an omelet or boiled eggs (yumurta), sliced tomatoes, and/or
cucumbers.
You can enjoy a Turkish breakfast almost everywhere in Istanbul. Cafés, pastry shops, and many
restaurants serve breakfast.
Street food
People in Istanbul love street food and you should indulge as well. There are street vendors and
snack shops or büfes in all busy areas and, generally, the food is safe and delicious. Here are
some favorites.
Börek – A flaky pastry with a filling. There are many types and ispanaklı börek (with spinach
filling), peynirli börek (with cheese filling), kıymalı börek (with minced meat filling) and
patatesli börek (with potato filling) are all popular.
Pide – A flat pizza like bread with Sucuklu Pide (melted cheese and spicy sausage) probably the
most popular.
Mısır – Boiled or grilled corn on the cob, sprinkled with spices.
Balık ekmek – Grilled or fried fish, wrapped in bread is popular next to the Galata Bridge.
Simit – A crisp, ring-shaped, savory roll covered with sesame.
Açma – This is a soft, slightly oily, ring-shaped savory bun.
Poğaça – a flaky, savory pastry with a filling: peynirli (cheese), kıymalı (minced meat), or
zeytinli (black olives).
Midye dolma – stuffed mussels.
Some recommended restaurants
There are thousands of restaurants in Istanbul so it is difficult to make an objective choice,
particularly of the small local ones. The following tend to be the more expensive, and sometimes
touristy places, which have proved to be popular with visitors but I urge you to try one of the
small local places sometime where there is no English menu (or perhaps no menu at all). I have
grouped them into geographical areas.
Sultanahmet and nearby
Buhara Ocakbasi Restaurant, Beyazıt Mh., Ç. Nuruosmaniye Cd. No:7; Cuisinr: Turkish.
https://www.facebook.com/buhararestaurant/
This is a very popular kebab restaurant with friendly English-speaking staff and reasonable prices. Mixed platters for two are a
good choice.

Amedros Café & Restaurant, Divanyolu Cad Hoca Rustem Sok No 7, Sultanahmet; Cuisine: Turkish.
http://www.amedroscafe.com/
It is located in a side street just off Diven Yolu Cad. The décor is fresh and modern and the staff are friendly. The quality of food
is good and it’s reasonably priced.

Sultanahmet Fish House, Prof. K. Ysmail Gurkan Caddesi No 14, Sultanahmet; Cuisines: Seafood, Turkish.
https://sultanahmetfishhouse.com/
It’s safe and convenient with local wine and an extensive menu. Service is attentive but not intrusive.

Balikei Sabahattin, Cankurtaran Mh., Seyit Hasan Kuyu Sok. No:1; Cuisine: Seafood, Mediterranean.
https://www.balikcisabahattin.com/
The ambience of the restaurant is quaint with a retractable roof for use in good weather. The food and service are good but the
many cats which wander around will disturb some people.
Beyoğlu and nearby
Ulus 29 Restaurant, Adnan Saygun Caddesi, Ulus Parkı İçi No:71/1, Beşiktaş. Cuisines: European, Turkish, Fusion.
https://www.29.com.tr/
This is an upscale, very expensive, classic restaurant. The place is hip and the views at night from the terrace are mind blowing.
Dress appropriately.

Mikla, Meşrutiyet Caddesi No. 15, Beyoğlu. Cuisines: Fusion, Mediterranean, Modern, Scandinavian.
https://www.miklarestaurant.com/en
This expensive rooftop restaurant of The Marmara Pera Hotel has innovative food with attentive service and an amazing view.
Low light and dark woods warm the sleek interior. Mikla has been on The Worlds 50 Best Restaurant list since 2015.

Leb-i Derya, Kumbaracı Yokuşu, Kumbaracı Business Inn, No: 57/6 Tunnel, Beyoğlu. Cuisines: Turkish, Contemporary.
The restaurant on the top floor of a residential apartment block has a great view and a big reputation. The food is good but not
extraordinarily, and prices are fairly high. It was not operating in November 2021.

Meze By Lemon Tree, Mesrutiyet cad No 83, Asmalı Mescit mah. Beyoğlu. Cuisine: Mediterranean. http://www.mezze.com.tr/
(it was closed in November 2021 for building renovations).
This small mid-priced restaurant with a charismatic chef, offers local cuisine with a whimsical touch. It’s popular, so book ahead
and it's a bit tricky to find. It's directly across the road from the Pera Palace Hotel.

Antica Locanda, Satış Meydanı No.12, Arnavutköy. Cuisine: Italian. http://anticalocanda.com.tr/

This is a genuine Italian restaurant within an old residential building of the Greek Orthodox Church. There are three levels and a
small patio in the back. Every mid-priced meal is a mix of regional tastes and traditional Italian cuisine.

Çok Çok Thai Restaurant, 51 Mesrutiyet Caddesi, Beyoğlu. Cuisine: Thai. https://cokcok.com.tr/
This mid-priced, clean, contemporary restaurant operates on two levels in winter and three when the Garden Deck is open in the
summer. Fresh spices and herbs are used extensively in the Thai and south-east Asian dishes.

Zuma, İstinye Mahallesi Bayır Çıkmazı İstinye Park No:461. Cuisine: Contemporary Japanese.
https://zumarestaurant.com/locations/istanbul/
The London based award -winning restaurant Zuma in istanbul, is now at Istinye Park in the secure fashion district. The modern
Japanese cuisine is famously authentic but not traditional. It is reasonably expensive.

The Asian side

Çiya Sofrasi, Güneşli Bahçe Sk 43, Kadıköy. Cuisines: Mediterranean, Middle Eastern.
https://www.theworlds50best.com/discovery/Establishments/Turkey/Istanbul/%C3%87iya-Sofras%C4%B1.html
This is a good place to eat authentic Turkish food at very reasonable cost. Try the salad bar, the lentil or yogurt soup and a mix of
dishes. You choose between two spots to eat - one with wine/beer and the other without.

Yanyali Fehmi Lokantasi, Söğütlüçeşme Caddesi Yağlıkçı İsmail Sok No. 1, Kadıköy. Cuisine: Turkish.
http://www.yanyalifehmi.com/
This is Kadıköy's oldest restaurant having started in 1919. It sells solid food at reasonable prices and keeps drawing in the locals.
There is a garden-like terrace at the back.

Agapia Cafe Restaurant, Bahariye Caddesi & Miralay Nazım Sokak No:10, Kadıköy. Cuisine: Café.
The restaurant is at an old historic building and the decor is nostalgically appropriate for the times.

Rainbow Cafe & Restaurant, Cengelkoy Cad. 1/A, Uskudar. Cuisine: Fast food, Turkish.
This is a friendly place with tasty food, traditional Turkish coffee, and a nice seaside view.
Drinking
Although most Turks are Muslim, for many, alcohol is part of their political secularization.
Atatürk set up government distilleries for raki, a double-distilled aniseed drink because he
reasoned if you’re going to be secular, you had to drink. But tensions over this still exist today.
In 2013, Turkey’s prime minister announced a plan to ban all alcohol advertising and the sale of
alcoholic drinks in shops between 10 p.m. and 6 a.m. and this was one of the grievances the 2013
protesters in Taksim Square had.
It is too soon to see the implications of this so you can still enjoy a lively drinking scene in many
districts of the city. Here are a few recommendations.
Litera Bar, Goethe-Institut Istanbul, Yeniçarşi Caddesi 32, Beyoğlu. https://www.literarestaurant.com/
The bar with glass walls and high tables with stools on the fifth floor of the Goethe Institute has a nice feel and spectacular view.
Tophane area
This is a street or area rather than a single bar that provides a quintessential Istanbul experience. The area is crammed with
lounge-style cafés where backgammon and smoking pipes will see you through into the small hours.

Café Smyrna, Kılıçali Paşa, Akarsu Caddesi 29, Cihangir.

This former antique shop embodies Cihangir's laid-back, old-fashioned style. Tables are shaded by plane trees and awnings, and
the bar is a jumble of furniture and standing lamps. It can be a lovely place to while away an evening drink in hand, but the
alcoholic drinks are expensive and the tea and coffee not great.

Vogue, Akaretler Spor Cad. No 92 BJK Plaza A Blok K:1, Beşiktaş. https://voguerestaurantandbar.com/
This is a high-end restaurant where you can stop in for a drink and the view. The balcony has a 270-degree view and some of the
signature cocktails (they’re called molecular cocktails) are quite spectacular.

16 Roof (https://www.swissotelthebosphorus.com/dining/16-roof-restaurant/) is located on the top floor of the Hotel Swissôtel

The Bosphorus, and is one of the best rooftop bars in Istanbul with a dress code: smart casual. The drinks menu at this place has
something for everyone. Even if you only drink beer you will find a small but interesting collection of beers, hot drinks, and soft
drinks.

Craft Beer Lab Sinanpaşa, Şair Nedim Cd. No:4, 34353 Beşiktaş https://www.facebook.com/craftbeerlab/reviews
It’s not just the beer but the teas, the non-alcoholic options, and the great cocktails that will tempt you. A young crowd gather
here to relax with their friends. There is a beer garden for the summer.
Nightlife
Istanbul has one of the best nightlife scenes in Europe, and the bars and nightclubs are for the
most part concentrated around certain districts.
On the European side, Istiklal Street and its surrounds have the largest concentration of nightlife
in the central city. The 19th century Cicek Paşaji has rows of historic pubs, wine-houses, and
restaurants. The famous Nevizade Street, which has rows of historic pubs next to each other, is
also in this area.
A little further south, Asmalimescit Street near the Tünel station and the lanes running off it are
packed with cafés, restaurants, meyhanes, and bars, each with their own unique character.
A few kilometers north from here, Nişantaşı is a trendy nightlife district popular with foreign
residents and Turkish yuppies. If you prefer classic, modern, fusion, and ethnic jazz, Nardis Jazz
Club in Galata (Bereketzade Mh., Galata Kulesi Sk. No:8) is a nice choice.
Back across the Golden Horn, Akbiyik Street is home to some of the best bars in Sultanahmet.
Catering almost exclusively to tourists, this small street is packed with both bars and restaurants.
During summer, many head to the scenic Bosphorus suburb of Ortaköy to dance the night away
in its spectacular, expensive Bosphorus-hugging nightclub complexes.
On the Asian side, Kadıköy is the place to go. Kadıköy’s Kadife Street, not far from the opera
house and referred to by locals as ‘Barlar Sokak’ (‘Bar Street’), is one of the most popular
nightlife districts here. Prices are reasonable and you’ll likely find yourself surrounded by fun
loving locals in character-filled bars, colorful garden venues, and heavy metal dives. Bağdat
Street with its many bars and some nightclubs is another place to try.
Here are a few specific recommendations.
Beco’s Bar, Firuzağa Mahallesi, Cezayir Sk. No:16, Beyoğlu; https://restaurantguru.com/Becos-Restaurant-Istanbul .
This place opens every day and has live music every evening. The food is OK, there are some interesting dishes, and the service
friendly.

Nardis Jazz Club, Bereketzade Mh., Galata Kulesi Sk. No:8; https://nardisjazz.com/
Nardis features live classic, modern, fusion, mainstream, and ethnic jazz and provides a stage for concerts in a club atmosphere.

Galata Restaurant and Bar, Istiklal Caddesi, Orhan Adli Apaydin Sokak No:5/A, Beyoğlu.
Head to a traditional Turkish meyhane and listen to some fasil music while sipping your raki and eating mezes. Since 1993, every
night except Sunday, there’s been a live “fasıl” session sung here with an orchestra made up of violin, kanun, oud, and tabor. You
can also eat in this historical place.

Sortie, Muallim Naci Cd. No: 54 Kuruçeşme. http://www.sortie.com.tr/en/home-2/

There are 7 restaurants with different examples of world cuisine while the Sortie Club offers the latest trends in the world of
entertainment. It opens from 6 p.m. to 4 a.m.

Hodjapasha Cultural Center, Ankara Caddesi, Hocapaşa Hamam Sok No 3.B, Sirkeci. https://www.hodjapasha.com/en/
This is located next to the Topkapı Palace Walls, near Sirkeci Train Station and was converted from a 550 years old historical
Turkish bath. There is a circular glass dance floor and a musician’s stage. Here you can see Mevleviye performing their famous
whirling dances and dervishes.

Cooking schools
Many visitors want to know more about Turkish cuisine so there are several cooking schools and
culinary walks that you might consider. There were some culinary walks suggested in chapter 5.
Here are a few cooking school suggestions.
Cooking Alaturka, (https://cookingalaturka.com/) Akbiyik Caddesi 72a, Sultanahmet.
A multilingual Dutch chef has a purpose-designed cooking school in Sultanahmet, where she offers hands-on half-day classes
focusing on traditional Anatolian dishes. You enjoy the delicious results over a five-course lunch or dinner with drinks.

Chefs Istanbul, (http://www.chefsistanbul.com/) Ömer Avni Mh., İnönü Cd. Akar Palas Apt 14/1, 34394 Gümüşsuyu Taksim.
Chef’s teach participants about the preparation of healthy and seasonal traditional Turkish meals and you then cook and sample
some traditional Turkish dishes. Classes last for about three hours and complimentary wine, tea, and coffee are served.

The Istanbul Cooking School (https://istanbulcookingschool.com/) half day course allows you to prepare a 5-course menu,
including classics of the historical Ottoman cuisine and favorites of the traditional Turkish home. You then enjoy a freshly
prepared meals for lunch or dinner along with refreshing drinks and Turkish coffee. You start your workshop with a nice walk
through one of the historic and traditional bazaars of Istanbul.

The Sarnic Hotel (http://sarnichotel.com) provides the opportunity to learn some delicious Turkish recipes. The class is held in
the hotel’s kitchen and features a local chef as instructor. During the four-hour class, you will prepare a five-course meal of
traditional dishes. Recipes are provided for your keeping and the group enjoys a delicious meal of their own creation in the
rooftop restaurant at the end of the session. The class size, ranging from 4 to 10, allows for each person to actively participate in
the food preparation.
Chapter 10 – SHOPPING

Istanbul has some of the best shopping to be found in Eastern Europe with modern shopping
centers, ancient bazaars, independent boutiques, design shops, and thousands of street stalls.
Shops in Istanbul open at a range of times. Major shopping centers open from 9 a.m. to 10 p.m.
every day of the week. Independent shops outside these centers normally open Monday to
Saturday, from around 10 a.m. to 7 or 8 p.m. and some close for lunch. In the tourist-heavy Old
City, along Istiklal Caddesi and in Nişantaşı, most shops stay open until 10 p.m. and also open
on Sunday.
Banks normally open 9 a.m. to 12.30 p.m. and 1.30 to 5 p.m. Monday to Friday. Post offices in
the major tourist areas open at slightly different times. In Sirkeci, the post office at Büyük
Postane Caddesi opens 8.30 a.m. to 5.30 p.m. daily while the one in Taksim at Cumhuriyet
Caddesi 2 opens from 8.30 a.m. to 12.30 p.m. and 1.30 to 5.30 p.m. Monday to Saturday.

What to buy.
Carpets
Carpet weaving is one of the most ancient crafts in Turkey. Turkish carpets come in distinct
styles from different regions of Turkey. There are different materials used and different patterns,
some of which are based on centuries-old styles.
Wool on wool rugs are generally the least expensive type of carpet. Wool on cotton carpets can
be much more intricate because cotton can be spun finely and the knot count is generally much
higher. Silk on silk is the most intricate type of carpet with very fine weave. These carpets can be
stunningly beautiful.
Kilims are flat tapestry-woven carpets which are produced by tightly interweaving the warp and
weft strands of the weave to produce a flat surface with no pile. The patterns are predominantly
geometric and the most common layouts are medallions, multiple connected diamond-shapes,
and all-over octagonal shapes.
Ceramics
The art of Turkish tiles and ceramics occupies a place of prominence in the history of Islamic art.
The late 15th and early 16th centuries mark the beginning of a new period in Ottoman tile and
ceramic-making. The most important center active at this time was Iznik.
Designs were prepared by artists who were employed in the studios of the Ottoman court and
were then sent to Iznik to be executed in wares ordered for use at the palace. This helped the
development of a technically advanced ceramic industry in Iznik.
The most well-known today, and the earliest example of the new styles that emerged in the early
Ottoman period, are the 'blue-and-white' Iznik ceramics. These imitated the 15th century Chinese
Ming porcelains that had reached the Ottoman court. The decorations include stylized foliage,
arabesques, and Chinese clouds while different styles of calligraphy were created for the tile
friezes on monuments.
Eventually, there was also a proliferation of bowls, vases, dishes, lamps, candle-holders, and
mugs, with decorations that included ships, animal figures, and fish-scale patterns alongside the
more traditional flower and plant designs.
Efforts are being made today in private workshops and educational institutions to keep the art of
traditional Turkish tiles and ceramics alive. It is hoped that the industry can be developed to meet
the needs of modern-day life.
Clothing
Traditional clothes and finery provide considerable information about the workings of a society.
From the earliest times, clothes worn within a tribe would define a person’s social status. More
than an obligation, this was an understanding carried on by tradition. Along with embroidery
used in traditional costumes, jewelry is also commonly used as an accessory.
Belly dancing is very popular in Turkey. It is a very old art form still enjoyed by Turks of all
classes and ages. Belly dance costumes are available in the bazaars and these can be a fun buy.
They consist of a head scarf, Turkish/Arabic vest, decorated bra, separate sleeves, hip-band and
circle skirt. Garments are traditionally decorated with imitation coins.
Bazaars and markets
Everyone knows about the Grand Bazaar (Kapalı Çarşı) (https://www.kapalicarsi.com.tr/tr/)
with its 4000 shops. It began in 1461 and is now one of the largest covered markets in the world.
It was once “the” place for local and international trade but in recent decades it has become more
of a tourist haven for those on a Middle Eastern shopping experience.
There is little doubt that the labyrinth of passageways with its beckoning sellers peddling just
about anything you can name is a must-visit place.
Prices are not fixed so bartering is an absolute must. The Grand Bazaar is open daily between 9
a.m. and 7 p.m. except on Sundays and during public or religious holidays. If 4000 shops are not
enough, the entire area to the north is filled with shopping opportunities, for block after block.
The other place that just about every visitor heads to is the Spice Bazaar (Egyptian Bazaar) on
Eminönü Square facing the Galata Bridge. Originally it sold goods imported from Egypt, then
spices, herbs, and traditional medicines, and now it has added some textiles, souvenirs, nuts,
dried fruits, jams, pickles, cheeses, and lokum (Turkish Delight) to the mix.
It is often crowded but the straight-forward layout makes it easy to negotiate. It opens daily
between 9 a.m. and 7 p.m. except during public or religious holidays.
The Flower Market (Çiçek Pazarı) is located close to the Spice Market and is open seven days a
week. While only plants, flowers, seeds, small animals such as parrots, turtles, and rabbits, and
gardening books are sold here, and thus it has limited tourist shopping appeal, it is well worth
while visiting to see the attractive scene and to maybe buy some leeches!
The Arasta Bazaar near the Sultanahmet (Blue) Mosque may be thronged with tourists but it is
a relatively stress-free shopping experience, with no pushy salespeople, and no noticeable
pickpockets. Shops sell carpets, colored tiles and pottery, clothing, traditional crafts, and lots
else.
Some say it is more expensive here than other bazaars, but the goods appear to be good quality.
There is a 24-hour open-air restaurant with a free whirling dervish show at 8 p.m. The Arasta
Bazaar is open daily.
The enormous Fatih Çarşamba (Wednesday) market is a sprawling weekly affair in an ultra-
conservative area near the Fatih mosque. It sells daily necessities, gadgets, branded clothing, and
almost everything at rock-bottom prices. It is favored by locals rather than tourists, is
disorganized and wholly unruly, and is part of the ‘real’ Istanbul.
Swarms of women pull apart mountains of clothing, looking for the occasional gem. Bags should
be kept close at all times.
The rough-and-ready, raucous Tarlabaşi Sunday food market held in the narrow, dusty,
uneven streets around Sakiz Ağaci Sokak, a short stroll from Taksim's Istiklal Street, has a loyal
following.
It starts mid-morning and goes through the afternoon and offers cheese and olives, nectarines,
watermelons and cherries, lamb and fish, jams, pickled everything, cosmetics, and household
goods. This is economical street shopping at its most authentic particularly around 6 p.m. when
vendors start discounting their unsold produce.
Beşiktaş Fish Market (Mumcu Bakka Sk): The market mainly sells fresh fish and sea-food from
the Sea of Marmara and elsewhere, but it is also possible to find plants, meat, and cheeses, as
well as vendors selling fast food.
Beşiktaş hosts a weekly Saturday market, which is refreshingly lacking in tourist junk, in a
multi-story car park on Nüzhetiye Caddesi. Fresh food is found on the first floor while the
second floor is heaped with factory seconds, dubious brand-name marked underwear, and other
‘goodies’ all at irresistible prices. There is a small café out the back.
The vast Wednesday Yeşilköy (green village) market, on Yeşilköy Halkali Caddesi near the
old international airport, provides a less frantic market experience. Its 2000 stalls have a
reputation for high-quality products and it is said to have the best fake products in the city. There
are scattered tea cafés to take your mind off shopping for a while.
Beyazıt Sahaflar Market is a second-hand bookseller’s market in the old streets of Beyazıt. It
is home to hundreds of bookshops selling used books, manuscripts, religious booklets, rare books
and antique finds. While there, check out the wonderful Beyazıt Public Library with its beautiful
interiors.
The Asian side of town is just a 25-minute boat journey or a four-minute train ride from Europe,
and there are several shopping reasons for going there. One of the best is the Tuesday Kadiköy
Market which is now held in the historic town square near Goztepe metro station.
The market is huge and sprawling with hundreds of merchants selling fruits, vegetables, spices,
and fish, as well as shoes, clothing, and bags. The market is now also open on Fridays, but only
to sell clothing. There are a variety of bars and restaurants around the market.
The all-day Bakirkoy Saturday Market (Vezir Sk) is another Asian favorite which attracts a
mixture of locals and tourists. There are bargains in designer shoes, costume jewelry,
homewares, organic produce and much more. While there, try the traditional Gözleme made from
dough, goat's cheese, and parsley.

Shopping streets
While we are still on the Asian side, let us visit two specific streets here.
Bağdat Caddesi is a glossy 14 km long street roughly parallel to the coast. Wooden chalet
mansions were built here from the 1870′s and those that still exist contribute to the wealthy look
of this up-scale residential area. The main section for shoppers is the wide, tree-lined, length
from Bostancı to Kızıltoprak.
There are several shopping malls and many fashion stores here including the stores of some of
the best global brands, such as Longchamp, Michael Kors, and Tommy Hilfiger, as well as local
Turkish names including Vakko, which is housed in a century-old wooden mansion. Zara, Nine
West, Brandroom, and Aldo also have outlets. Don’t miss the Mabel Çikolata store which has
offered handmade chocolates since 1947.
To explore this street properly, I recommend you start from Bostancı or Suadiye and then walk
back towards Kadiköy in the same direction as the traffic. You can also take a dolmus, bus, or
taxi from Kadiköy to Suadiye, or go to Bostanci from Kabataş by ferry. Stop and enjoy one or
more of the restaurants, pubs, and cafés that line this length.
Bahariye Street, a pedestrianized street in Kadiköy is less up-market and is a popular shopping
area for locals. The area has a laid-back style and the street is packed with reasonably priced
stores, smaller boutiques, and popular chain operations. You won’t be blown away by most of
the goods but you may get a bargain.
Back on the European side, we are drawn to Abdi İpekci Street located in the Maçka or
Nişantaşı district about 2 km north of Taksim Square. During the last decade, this 700-meter-
long street has developed into a place hosting luxury retail shopping venues and is currently the
most expensive street for retail stores in the city.
A variety of expensive shops offering Turkish and international designer labels, restaurants, and
cafés are located here. It is the place to find luxury retail stores such as Louis Vuitton, Prada,
Cartier, Dior, Gucci, DKNY and many more.
Back at Taksim Square, Istiklal Caddesi is arguably Istanbul’s most famous street. It has some
big names and smaller stores along its length and is a great place to be on weekends when local
families walk up and down.
Across in the Old City, MahmutPaşa Street is a complete contrast. Few streets feel as real as
this one leading downhill from the Grand Bazaar towards the Spice Market. It is a jumble of
buildings but inside it is a bustling world of bargain shopping.
The shops seem to sell everything from pajamas to handbags, fabric, headscarves, shoes,
cosmetics, and elaborately decorated wedding dresses. You can also find brands like Pierre
Cardin and Polaris but don’t believe all the labels for some are factory seconds and fakes.

Shopping districts
Nişantaşı is a district north of Taksim Square known to committed shoppers. Nişantaşı is said to
have the third largest community of foreign residents in Istanbul and it is a fashionable shopping,
culture, and art center, and an up-market residential area. The combination of elegant historical
buildings, chic cafés and restaurants, and its stylish inhabitants give Nişantaşı a European style
and grace.
Tesvikiye Street boasts popular designers such as Gucci and Emporio Armani as well as the
large City’s Shopping Mall while Abdi İpekçi (see shopping streets above) is probably the
classiest street. MimKemal Öke and Atiye streets have some great cafés and restaurants.
Cukurcuma is a charming area where rambling apartments house some of the finest collections
of antiques, boutique fashion, and kitsch in the city. To reach here, go to the mid-point of Istiklal
Caddesi then wander downhill in the direction of the Bosphorus.
You can literally lose yourself in the many winding side streets and alleyways but you’ll stumble
on narrow stores packed to the ceiling with everything from century-old artifacts to art works,
carpets, vintage toys, maps, retro furniture and much more.
This is sometimes called the Soho of Istanbul, with its 150 antique shops, owned generally by
minorities and Levantines, who have been living here for many years.

Shopping malls
Istanbul has some of the biggest and fanciest shopping centers in Europe. They are mostly on the
European side in the area north of Taksim Square and are some kilometers from many of the
hotels which tourists frequent. While one is worth exploring if you are in Istanbul for a week or
so, they hold little shopping appeal to many visitors. Here are a few examples.
Akmerkez (http://www.akmerkez.com.tr/en) is located at Ulus Caddesi No 3, Etiler, a
neighborhood of the Beşiktaş district. This four-story triangular mall at the base of three towers
was opened in 1995, has almost 250 stores, and was chosen as the best suburban shopping center
in Europe that year by the International Council of Shopping Centers.
Akmerkez offers a courtesy card to foreigners, which provides discounts of up to 20% in several
shops in the shopping mall. The center also has complimentary transport from hotels in the area.
The entire center is currently being upgraded to achieve a new sense of luxury.
Located at İstinye Bayırı Cad. No 73 in the Istinye neighborhood of the Sarıyer district, the
Istinye Park shopping center (https://istinyepark.com.tr/) offers a variety of outdoor and glass
roofed indoor sections. The very modern Lifestyle Center is an open-air town square with a
green park. It also includes the indoor Fashion District with many well-known brands such as
Zara, Hugo Boss, Mango, Dior, and Dolce & Gabbana.
The main entertainment space is located in the four-story Grand Rotunda. It includes a 12 screen,
2600-seat cinema including an IMAX 3D screen, as well as an entertainment center for children.
The Bazaar area is styled on a traditional Turkish bazaar and has several restaurants including an
Ottoman restaurant, fish restaurant, and a steakhouse, while 20 small shops at the Marketplace
sell a variety of fresh produce. To reach here, take the metro to the İtü Ayazağa stop then walk to
Istinye Park. From Beşiktaş you take bus number 40B.
Kanyon (https://www.kanyon.com.tr/en/home) is a four-story shopping center located at
Büyükdere Caddesi No:185 in the financial district of Levent. It has curved buildings, wide paths
and open spaces, 160 stores, gourmet restaurants, cafés, a health and sports club, and 9 cinemas.
It is a cool and breezy semi-outdoor alternative to the city’s indoor shopping centers.
There are top local and global brands, cafés, and open-air performances. Harvey Nichols, Banana
Republic, Lacoste, Mango, Sony, Apple, and Marks and Spencer are established here. To reach
here, take the Metro to the Levent station and follow the signs to the mall entrance.
Vialand (https://www.isfanbulavm.com/magazalar) at Girne Street 15, GaziosmanPaşa is one of
the newest and larger shopping malls in Istanbul. It has a different atmosphere from many malls
as the 250 shops have old Istanbul style and Ottoman facades. There are local and international
brands, fast food courts, cafés, restaurants, kids playing areas, 3D cinemas and so on. There is
also a huge Amusement Park which is named Vialand Theme Park.
You can reach the mall by public buses departing from Taksim Square and there are free shuttles
available from several pickup points of the city.
City’s (http://citysnisantasi.com/) at Teşvikiye Mahallesi Teşvikiye Caddesi No:162, Nişantaşı is
close to Taksim. There are a variety of stores, cafés, restaurants, fitness center and spa, and a 7-
theater cinema. There are 150 stores selling homewares, shoes, bags, children’s wear and toys,
electronics and accessories, cosmetics, books, music, fashion, jewelry, and watches.
Big names represented include Gap, Calvin Klein, D&G, DKNY Jeans, and Jean Paul Gaultier.
Restaurants are big serving Mexican, Chinese, Japanese, French, Italian, American and other
world food while chains such as Starbucks and Gloria Jeans are also available. The Barcode Bar
is popular after work.
Since opening in 2005, Cevahir (http://www.istanbulcevahir.com/en-EN/home/29.aspx) has
become one of Istanbul’s leading shopping malls with a strategic location, good collection of
brands, and groundbreaking events. There are 303 stores on 10 floors, offering options for any
budget and taste from apparel and electronics to accessories, books and music.
Other facilities include a large stage, 12 cinemas, a bowling hall and play park which offers
many rides including a free-falling tower, spinning octopus and a roller coaster. The center
claims to have the second biggest clock in the world, with three-meter-high numbers. The
shopping center is directly connected to the Şişli metro station.
The Sapphire Shopping Mall on Buyukdere Avenue between Levent and Maslak is part of one
of the tallest buildings in Europe. The structure consists of 66 floors and provides a 134-store
shopping center, playgrounds, cinema halls, and restaurants, The Wax Museum Istanbul, and
floors for residences.
The top floor has a lookout area, a "Sky Ride" simulation, and a restaurant. After buying tickets
at 15 TL/person on the second floor, you take the lift to the top.
The five-storied Trump Towers Mall (https://www.trumpalisverismerkezi.com/) at
Mecidiyeköy Yolu Caddesi, No 12, Şişli opened in 2012 at the base of the two Trump towers.
The Trump Mall has various entertainment alternatives, eateries, cinema, theater, exhibition
center, and a special kids’ floor.
There are 175 stores, a Saturn Electronics Market, and the only Disney Theater in Europe. The
Trump Mall has a connection to the Şişli metro station and the Metrobus.
The 265 shops and restaurants at the Forum Istanbul (https://www.forumistanbul.com.tr/) are
spread out over 4 levels. Opened in 2009, this center with a connection to the
Kocatepe/Kartaltepe metro station, was an immediate success as it has a contemporary urban feel
with boulevards, buildings, piazzas, fountains, and works of art.
There are big stores like IKEA, clothing and shoe stores such as Zara and Marks and Spencer, 15
cafés, 34 restaurants, and 10 movie halls. Other features are a gigantic aquarium called
Turkuazoo, Jurassic Land, the biggest themed park in Europe, and mini golf.
Olivium shopping center (https://www.facebook.com/OliviumOutletCenter/) was opened in
2000. It was the first outlet center in Turkey. It is located at Prof. Dr. Muammer Aksoy Cad. No
1 D:1, Telsiz in Zeytinburnu. It has 115 stores, many playgrounds, play parks for children, 6
cinemas, and 8 restaurants. In addition to clothing and textile firms such as Calvin Klein and
Marks and Spencer, Olivium hosts many sports shops and also stores for electronic goods.
Most visitors will not be interested in shopping centers on the Asian side but just in case you
have a need I have listed one. This is the Palladium Mall (http://www.palladium.com.tr/) which
opened in Atasehir in 2008. It has 190 stores and has many national and international select
brands including Marks&Spencer, Mango, Tommy Hilfiger, and Zara.
It has nice architecture with a huge glass dome, a food court, a-la-carte restaurants, large terraces,
10 theaters, and playgrounds for children.

Specialist shops
In a city of 17 million or so, it is impossible to select all the great small specialist stores selling
everything from clothes to textiles, leather, jewelry, gorgeous sweets, gifts and so on. The
following is just a minute selection of what you will find.
Midnight Express (https://midnight.com.tr/) has been developed by an architect and fashion
designer and it reflects their common interests. They now have five stores with fashion, lifestyle
accessories, and jewelry. The stores have been featured in publications such as Monocle, Travel
and Leisure, and Marie Claire so don’t expect it to be cheap.
It sells a well-edited selection of clothing and jewelry by established names such as Bora Aksu,
alongside up-and-coming ones. There are two stores side by side on Küçük Bebek Caddesi, in
Bebek
Punto Leather & Fur (http://www.puntogroup.com/) has been a leading leather brand since
1993. Customer satisfaction is a priority with this company with clear Turkish roots, but which is
influenced by international trends and designs. Coats and other products are available in many
materials from python to finest baby calf leather and silver fox fur, mink, and chinchilla.
You can find stores at Abdi İpekçi Cad. Lalezar Apt. No. 49, in the trendy Nişantaşı
neighborhood, in Sultanahmet, and in the Zeytinburnu area .
Koska (http://www.koska.com/en) is a chain of Turkish confectionery shops, which was founded
in 1907. One of their specialties is Turkish Delight (Lokum), which is a confectionery, based on a
syrup of starch, sugar, and often mastic. It is usually flavored with lemon, orange, nuts,
pistachios, and similar treats, but there are also many other traditional Turkish sweets, nuts, and
teas.
There are several Koska shops in Istanbul including the factory store at Cihangir Mahallesi Şehit
J.Kom. Onbaşı Ayhan Arslan Sok. No: 2 Ambarlı Kavşağı. Avcılar.
If you love Turkish Delight you should visit Ali Muhiddin Haci Bekir at İstiklal Caddesi
No.83/A İstiklal. This is the most famous Turkish delight specialist store in Istanbul where, it’s
said, the sweet was first invented. There are also many other sweet treats to try.
Galeri Kayseri (https://www.galerikayseri.com/) on Divan Yolu, in Sultanahmet, is the place to
buy English books in Istanbul. It sells both fiction and nonfiction and they also have books either
written by Turkish authors or foreign authors but about Turkey.
Haremlique (https://www.haremlique.com/) at Zorlu Center, Koru Sokak No.2 Zincirlikuyu, is
great for cotton bikinis, kaftans, beach dresses, and tunics. You can also find bed and bath linens
and other home products. The products are expensive and unique, with exquisite prints and
delicate embroideries.
Yastık by Rıfat Özbek (https://yastikbyrifatozbek.com/) produces luxurious cushions in bright
hues and bold prints, using textiles mainly sourced from parts of Anatolia and Uzbekistan. The
shop at Şakayık Sk, 13/1 Teşvikiye is a great place for gift shopping.

Tax Refunds
If you are doing much shopping in Istanbul, you may be eligible for a tax refund on what you
buy. Shoppers eligible for Tax Free Shopping are those with a permanent residence outside
Turkey and have not spent more than 6 months in Turkey and who are older than 18 years. The
minimum purchase amount is 108 TL per receipt.
Turkey has two VAT Rates of interest to visitors. For textiles and clothes, leather goods, carpets,
shoes, bags, optics, books, and food it is 8%. For accessories, electronics, watches, sunglasses,
cosmetics, porcelain/ceramics, and homeware it is 18%.
Look for stores displaying the Tax Free Shopping signage in their windows. When paying for
your purchases, ask the shop staff for a Tax Free Form. Fill in all the required fields in block
letters, and at the airport go to the Customs desk and present your completed Tax-Free Form,
passport, and purchases to get a stamp on your form before you check in for your flight.
Don’t pack goods away in your check-in luggage as you may need to show them to the Customs
Officer.
After you have checked in and cleared customs, go to a Refund counter. Present your stamped
and completed Tax Free Forms to receive the refund in cash or to your credit card.
This process can take some time at busy periods so if you are running late, you can mail your
stamped and completed Tax Free Forms to the address of the Processing Center and receive your
refund on your credit card. The refund you receive is the VAT minus a handling fee.
Chapter 11 - WHERE to STAY

The choice is huge. There are five-star hotels where you can live as well as the sultans, well-
priced boutique establishments, apartments where you can mix with the locals, and budget rooms
with friendly proprietors.
Once you have decided on your level of accommodation, the choice of location is critical
depending on what you plan to do during your stay. Here are some suggestions in different areas.

Sultanahmet and nearby

Four Seasons Sultanahmet ***** Teyfikhane Sok No 1, Sultanahmet; https://www.fourseasons.com/istanbul/
This used to be a prison but today the rooms are very large and well-fitted out. It is a comfortable walk to many local sights and
to the tram. The bar is warm, the roof top lounge impressive, and breakfast in the conservatory-style restaurant in the courtyard is
delicious. Passages and floors are beautifully decorated with tiles, and highly decorative modern Iznik plates hang on the walls. It
is currently closed for renpvations but will open early 2022.

Agora Life Hotel **** Cagaloglu Hamam Sok. No 6, Sultanahmet; http://www.agoralifehotel.com/

This small hotel has modern accommodation with free Wi-Fi access. It has a rooftop terrace and offers a buffet breakfast. Rooms
are tastefully decorated and have wooden floors but some are a little small.
They come equipped with LCD TV and laptop-size safes, and include a nice bathroom with a bathrobe and slippers. Thoughtful
touches also include a fruit basket and a daily bottle of mineral water. The Cagaloglu historic Turkish bath is just next door and
there are plenty of restaurants at Sultanahmet Square.

White House Hotel ****Alemdar Mahallesi Catalcesme Sok No 21, Sultanahmet; https://www.istanbulwhitehouse.com/
This small boutique traditional hotel with 22 rooms has authentic Turkish furniture and a great breakfast in the roof-top
restaurant. Staff are amazing. There is 24-hour Room Service and 24-hour Reception service.

Hotel Ibrahim Pasha **** Terzihane Sok 7 Sultanahmet; https://www.ibrahimpasha.com/

This boutique hotel is located in a quiet street near the Blue Mosque. It is cozy and intimate, which makes you feel like you are in
someone's private home. The rooftop terrace is perfect for a sunset drink and there is a well-stocked library with beautiful
bookcases, fireplace, and rugs. Deluxe rooms are a better size.

Neorion Hotel **** Orhaniye Street No 14, Sirkeci; http://www.neorionhotel.com

Immaculately clean and very comfortable describes this centrally located property within walking distance to the Old Towns’ top
attractions. A 2 p.m. to 6 p.m. complimentary and tasty mezzo is provided and the roof top terrace has a lovely view of the
Bosphorus, the mosque, and the city. Breakfast runs until 11 a.m.
Ottoman Hotel Imperial **** Cafériye Sokak No 6/1Sultanahmet; http://www.ottomanhotelimperial.com/
Located in a quiet location just outside the Topkapi Palace, this property has large rooms with traditional Turkish rugs, wooden
floors, and chic, dark wood furniture. Rooms have free Wi-Fi, LCD televisions with satellite channels, direct-dial phones, digital
safes, hair dryer, and tea & coffee makers. A complimentary breakfast is served. Matbah Restaurant offers traditional Ottoman
cuisine. Guests can choose to dine in the hotel's garden or at the terrace.
Sirkeci Mansion **** Taya Hatun Sokak No 5, Sirkeci; http://www.sirkecimansion.com/
The hotel is in a quiet cobblestoned lane, within walking distance of the main Old Town sights, and a tram stop is one minute
away. The 52 rooms are a reasonable size, well equipped, and have traditional hanging lamps, and beds with ornate wood
carvings. Each one has a flat-screen TV with satellite channels. The Neyzade Restaurant serves good meals and there are dozens
of restaurants nearby. There is a spa, swimming pool, sauna, and Turkish bath.

Hotel Amira Istanbul **** Kucuk Ayasofya Mah. MustafaPaşa Sok. No 43, Sultanahmet; https://www.hotelamira.com/
This small hotel with excellent staff has complimentary Wi-Fi, free access to a fitness center, and an afternoon tea buffet. There is
an ATM machine in the lobby, and a lovely roof terrace. Rooms have a slightly exotic feel. Meals are excellent and it is a short
walk to tram stops and excellent restaurants.

Hotel Empress Zoe *** Akbiyik Caddesi 10, Sultanahmet; http://www.emzoe.com/

The hotel is in several original Ottoman townhouses just 5 minutes’ walk from Aya Sofia and the Blue Mosque. The property is
full of charm but has tasteful, contemporary decor. Spacious and well-appointed rooms are located off a beautiful garden and
there is a rooftop with a good view of the Bosphorus. The property has no lifts/elevators. Breakfast is served in the garden and
other meals are available from a street full of restaurants.

Basileus Hotel *** Kadirga Liman Cad. Sehit Mehmet Paşa Sok. No 1 Sultanahmet; https://www.basileushotel.com/
This family run small hotel is just a five-minute walk from the Hippodrome and the Blue Mosque. It is a good example of
Turkish hospitality. Rooms are clean, comfy, and quiet and many have small balconies. Breakfast is good. Cookies and cakes are
provided in the lobby every afternoon and evening. There is no lift/elevator.

Marmara Guesthouse ** Akbiyik cad. Terbiyik sok. No 15, Sultanahmet; https://www.marmaraguesthouse.com/

This is not fancy, but it is simple, clean accommodation in a small authentic guest-house run by a Turkish family. It provides
traditional Turkish breakfast and Turkish coffee, and a good view of the Bosphorus and Marmara Sea from the terrace. Single,
twin, double, triple, and rooms for up to four people are offered with private facilities. Some require you to climb a lot of steps
and some rooms are very small but there is a real family atmosphere.

Beyoğlu and nearby

Witt Istanbul Hotel ***** Defterdar Yokusu No 26, Cihangir, Beyoğlu; https://www.wittistanbul.com/
This small, modern, chic boutique hotel is in a residential area close to Taksim Square. Shops, coffee spots, bars, and interesting
sights are within walking distance. Hospitality is warm and inviting and there is free internet and free breakfast in the lobby. Most
rooms are large, stylish, and extremely clean and comfortable.

Four Seasons Istanbul at the Bosphorus ***** Ciragan Cad. No 28, Beşiktaş; https://www.fourseasons.com/bosphorus/
Rooms here are big and spacious, with a full-sized desk, arm chair, window seat, as well as a huge wardrobe and bar area. The
pool area is lovely alongside the Bosphorus and you can dine outside on the giant terrace and veranda area. The spa is lovely with
good sized indoor pool and giant Jacuzzi, but treatments are very expensive. The hotel is noted for its extraordinarily professional
staff.

Intercontinental ***** Asker Ocagi Cad. 1, Taksim, Beyoğlu; http://istanbul.intercontinental.com/

There are 390 units, just a few steps away from the bustle of Taksim Square in this plush and elegant hotel. With three
restaurants, three bars, airport transfers, babysitting, concierge, health club and spa, and outdoor pool, the facilities are excellent.
The Brasserie serves international flavors; Safran Restaurant & Terrace offers Ottoman delicacies and traditional Turkish cuisine;
while the Veranda Restaurant & Lounge offers international dishes in the garden.

Ciragan Palace Hotel Kempinski Instanbul ***** Çiragan Cad. 84, Beşiktaş; https://www.kempinski.com/tr/istanbul/ciragan-
palace/
This was the residence of the last Ottoman sultans, and the faithfully restored stone-and-marble palace now houses the VIP suites.
There is also a modern five-star deluxe hotel in a separate building, both standing on the shores of the Bosphorus overlooking a
magnificent collection of sculpted lawns.
There are 310 units, three restaurants, four bars, airport transfers, babysitting, concierge, health club and spa, heliport, indoor and
outdoor pool, and a putting green.

Pera Palace Hotel ***** Mesrutiyet Caddesi 52 Tepebasi, Galata; https://www.perapalace.com/

This was the first luxury hotel in the city. It opened in 1895, catering for passengers from the Orient-Express train. The 115
rooms have been completely rebuilt and include the latest technology. The soaring lobby leads to the majestic, domed Kubbeli
Saloon and Tea Lounge with its exotic 'Arabian Nights' ambience.
The Orient Bar and the Patisserie de Pera have a nostalgic charm. There are spa and wellness facilities and a fitness center. Room
411, the Grand Pera Studio room, is where Agatha Christie is said to have written Murder on the Orient Express.

Ritz-Carlton Istanbul ***** Suzer Plaza, Askerocaqi Cad. No:6, Şişli, Beyoğlu;
https://www.ritzcarlton.com/en/hotels/europe/istanbul/hotel-overview
This modern glass monolith has 244 spacious rooms with large picture windows and a wonderful view. There are two restaurants,
three bars, airport transfer, babysitting, children's programs, concierge, health club and spa, indoor pool, and spa. Bathrooms have
bathtubs and separate showers, towel warmers, scales, handmade tiles, and designer soaps. The hamam is one of the most
luxurious in town. It is hard to get around the city from here unless you catch a taxi.

Les Ottomans ***** Muallim Naci Cad. 68, Kuruçesme; http://www.lesottomans.com/

This lavish hotel only has 10 units. It is a reconstruction of the former Muhzinzade Mehmet Paşa, a wooden mansion that stood
on this site. The hotel is opulent without being ostentatious. There is a restaurant, bar, exercise room, outdoor pool, room service,
a spa which is free to hotel guests, and butler service. Currently closed due to Covid-19 restrictions (November 2021).

Raffles Istanbul ***** Zorlu Center, Zincirlikuyu; https://www.raffles.com/istanbul/

It is quite a way from the Old City and although not on the water, the 181 large rooms and suites have sweeping views over the
Bosphorus with floor to ceiling windows and private balconies. The hotel has two restaurants - Arola by Michelin starred chef
Sergi Arola, and Rocca with Mediterranean dishes and a Turkish influence. There are three bars - the Writers Bar, the
Champagne Room, and a new take on Singapore’s Long Bar.

The St. Regis Istanbul ***** Mim Kemal Oke Cad No 35, Nişantaşı; https://www.marriott.com.au/hotels/travel/istxr-the-st-
regis-istanbul/
The modernist Art Deco influenced hotel features exceptional services and world-class facilities and you will enjoy the signature
St. Regis Butler service. Rejuvenate at Iridium Spa and find a myriad of gastronomic influences ranging from Californian-
inspired cuisine to select French options in the various restaurants. Service is at a very high standard.

TomTom Suites **** Bogazkesen Cad. Tomtom Kaptan Sok. No 18, Karakoy, Beyoğlu; http://www.tomtomsuites.com/
This boutique design hotel is in a very quiet and safe road, close to major shopping and restaurants. The 20 beautiful, modern,
suites have living rooms with high ceilings, large, classy and comfortable bedrooms with views out towards the Bosphorus. There
is a rooftop high quality restaurant with creative fusion cuisine.

Hotel Peradays *** Kamer Hatun, Hamalbaşı Cd. No:32, 34435 Beyoğlu; https://www.peradays.com/
There are 9 different suites, each with their own style, with air-conditioning and flatscreen HD televisions. There is a communal
library, and located on the entrance level is a communal dining area, kitchen and restroom. On the top floor there is a terrace
where you can enjoy breakfast or watch the golden sunset.

Levanten Hostel, Cihangir Mahallesi Purtelas Sokak No 42, Beyoğlu; http://www.levanten-hostel.com/

This hidden away budget property offers private rooms and shared dorms, all simply furnished, and with access to shared, small
bathroom facilities, and a kitchen. They also include air-conditioning, heating, a safe, and free Wi-Fi. There is a 24-hour
reception desk, bar - café where breakfast is available, and laundry facilities. Cleanliness of the toilets can be an issue.

Asian Shore
DoubleTree by Hilton Istanbul-Moda ***** Caféraga Mah. Sozdener Cad. No 31, Kadıköy;
https://www.hilton.com/en/hotels/istimdi-doubletree-istanbul-moda/
This modern hotel has 248 elegantly furnished air-conditioned rooms with LCD TVs, and a well-appointed gym for guests who
like to keep fit. Elemental Spa includes a sauna, massage rooms, and a Turkish bath. Doubles Restaurant and La Gazetta
Café&Bar serves a range of delicious dishes with indoor and outdoor dining options.

A’jia ***** Halide Edip Adıvar Cad.No:27 34810 Kanlica; https://www.ajiahotel.com/

This is the best location you can find on the Bosphorus. If you have already seen the Sultanahmet/Taksim areas, it's a great choice
for two or three days. The boutique hotel with 16 rooms is situated in a traditional Ottoman mansion. Rooms are well appointed,
spacious, and have incomparable views.
Facilities include a DVD player, satellite TV, and luxurious bathroom amenities but some of the furniture is a bit tired. Six of the
rooms are spacious suites and half are split-level. It is a popular wedding spot so this can be disruptive to guests. There is no pool.
There is a private boat ferry service. Staff are helpful, professional and friendly.

Sumahan on the Water **** Kuleli Cd No 43, Çengelköy Mh., Üsküdar; https://www.sumahan.com/
This is in an authentic Bosphorus neighborhood and would be a peaceful place to rest and enjoy the last days of your holiday.
The town center is about a 10-minute walk, and there are many small restaurants and nice dessert shops. There are 26 romantic
rooms, great service, and a nice hamam. All rooms have Bosphorus views, contemporary design and big windows. Tapasuma
restaurant has creative cuisine while breakfast on the terrace is delightful. There is a private boat shuttle.

Emirtimes Kadikoy Hotel *** Reşitefendi Sokak No 38 Osmanaga Mah., Kadikoy; http://zirve-otel.hotel-istanbul.net/en/
The hotel is a great location; just a short walk to the ferries, buses, the Metro and near to restaurants in Kadikoy and Moda. The
building is old but the decor is modern and the staff are very friendly. Air-conditioned rooms are carpeted and include a private
bathroom, and come equipped with a minibar and LCD cable TV. The hotel has a restaurant, business center and gym.
Hush Hostel Moda ** Caféraga Mah. Gunesli Bahce Sok. 50/B, Kadıköy; https://www.hushhostels.com/moda/
This is in a very good position, near the ferry and the metro, and surrounded by bars and restaurants. A fresh breakfast is served
on the terrace with views of the city. There are clean rooms, some with en-suites and some with shared bathrooms, and dorms
with shared bathrooms. The friendly and helpful English-speaking staff help make this great value for money.
*******************************************************

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This was the sixth book in the Experience series. There are now another eight.
We hope you also enjoy the other books in the series:
Experience Thailand e-book; https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08RNH4JP2
Experience Thailand paperback; https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08RL68FYJ
Experience Norway e-book; https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08RNYQ37Q
Experience Norway paperback; https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08RH7MKXZ
Experience Northern Italy e-book; https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08RP2SWH8
Experience Northern Italy paperback; https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08RLFFMWM
Experience Ireland e-book; https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08RRFMHM9
Experience Ireland paperback; https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08RL573B9
Experience Myanmar e-book; https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08RSGY6VQ
Experience Myanmar paperback; https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08RL573BY
Experience Istanbul e-book; https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08RSJBKZJ
Experience Istanbul paperback; https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08RL573BY
Experience Singapore e-book; https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08RRTH59G
Experience Singapore paperback; https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08RH5N2XG
Experience India’s Golden Triangle e-book; https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08RW77D6J
Experience India’s Golden Triangle paperback; https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08RR3FQ2L
Experience Melbourne e-book; https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08RRVZT74
Experience Melbourne paperback; https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08RR3FQ2Y

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