10 x 2

S T U D I O
BY VICTORIA ZHUK

MOUSE
 WHAT YOU WILL NEED Page 1

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PATTERN
SEWING MACHINE
IRON AND SOMETHING TO IRON ON (I use fabric folded a few times)
RULLER
1 FABRIC FOR SKIN (about 5"x 18" I recommend using cotton or linen fabric)
2 FABRIC FOR TORSO (about 4"x 8")
3 FABRIC FOR INSIDE OF EARS ( about 3"x 5")
4 LIGHT FUSIBLE INTERFACING enough for all fabric
5 TULLE FOR DRESS (will depend on tulle but about 3"x 15")
6 RIBBON FOR DRESS
7 THREAD MATCHING MOUSE SKIN AND TORSO FABRIC
8 SOMETHING HOLLOW LIKE A STRAW OR BARREL OF PEN
(for turning parts inside out)
9 STUFFING TOOL (such as chopstick or flat end of pencil)
10 PEN OR PENCIL FOR DRAWING ON FABRIC (I use a regular pen,
but highly recommend using a disappearing pen or pencil)
11 PINS
12 NEEDLE FOR EMBROIDERY AND A LONG DOLL NEEDLE
13 EMBROIDERY YARN FOR LIPS AND EYES
14 SCISSORS (pinking shears are optional)
15 FIBER FILL
16 FAUX LEATHER (2"x 1" gold)
17 TWINE FOR TAIL AND CROWN
COLORED PENCIL FOR BLUSH ON CHEEKS

To apply fusible interfacing,
1 you will need to iron it down
to wrong side of fabric. To do that,
find the side of fusible interfacing
that has glue dots on it. Place
fusible interfacing onto back side
of fabric with glue dots down on
fabric. Now use iron, set to
medium-high, and press fusible
interfacing onto fabric. This will
melt glue dots and stick interfacing
to fabric. If you've never used
fusible interfacing before,
don't put iron straight to
interfacing, place thin fabric,
or paper-towel, on top of
interfacing to avoid burning it
and ruining your iron.
4 5
Then trim with pinking shears, or
trim 1/8" away from the seam
with regular scissors.
7 8
If fabric looks a little wavy you may
iron it to help it take a flat shape,
but I didn't find it to effect the end
product.
Preparing fabric. Page 2
2 3
ears 2 1/2x5"
head 3x7 1/2" inside & outside
body 4x7 1/2"
arms & legs
5x5" x 2
Place head and body fabrics right
sides together aligning one of the
After applying fusible interfacing
to all fabric, cut fabric to needed long sides. Sew them together 1/4"
away from the edge. Use very short
size.
stitches with high tension. This will
ensure good looking seams.
6
Press that edge towards fabric In the back you will end up with
for body and top stitch it down two stitch lines.
very close to seam.
9
In front you will see one stitch line. Fold this pice of head/body fabric
I like it better when thread matches in half (right sides together) making
the fabric, it doesn't grab your sure to align seams. This will play a
attention when you look at the toy. big roll in the toy, it looks best
when everything's aligned.
 Tracing Sewing Cutting Page 3

1 2 3

Place head/body pattern on wrong

side of fabric that was just folded, Pin the fabrics together at the Trace the ears, legs and arms.
aligning neckline with the top stitch seam to keep them from sliding All on wrong side of fabric.
line. Trace pattern and make marks during sewing.
where the opening will be.

4 5 6

Sew as slow as you need to keep

Using short stitches and hight right on the line, and go extra slow
tension sew right on the lines. at all turns. This is very important
Make sure to backstitch every time if you want nice seams on your
you start and end a stitch line. finished toy.
Make sure not to sew over lines Stitch again in the neck area,
where openings will be: bottom right next to first stitch line.
of body, back of body, top of legs, Make sure it's "outside" the pattern.
back of arms, and bottom of ears. This area will be under a lot of stress
when you turn and stuff the toy, it
needs this extra help there to keep
the seam from coming apart.
Cut all pieces about 1/8" away from
stitch lines. and about 1/4" away
from openings in arms and back
of body. Cut right on the lines of
bottom of ears, bottom of body,
top of legs, making sure not to
cut into the stitches.
 Turning & pressing. Page 4

1 2 3

To turn arms and legs: insert a From outside, place narrow end
of chopstick, or something narrow, Push chopstick towards
straw (or something hollow like a
to the tip of straw, straw while rolling the fabric
barrel of a pen) inside the
pressing the fabric between onto chopstick with your hand.
leg all the way to the end.
them.

4 5 6

If some parts are hard to

Grab the tip as it gets close to straighten use a needle to
opening and pull it out. help bring it up. Insert a needle
into or near the seam...

7 8 9

...and "pull" the seam up so the Tuck in the openings on arms so

piece will take desired shape. they become a straight line like
the rest of arm.
 Page 5

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"Press" the tucked opening with It's also important to have

your finger nails so it keeps all the pieces be in their shape Making those seams come to the
the shape. prior to stuffing. So "roll out" all edge.
seams with your fingers.

13 14 15

And pressing with fingers to keep Pull a few times at the throat
that shape until you press it with area to relax the fabric there Should look like this.
iron. and eliminate tension and pulling
in this area on toy.

16 17 18

Turn ear openings in 1/4" as well.

Then fold in the bottom about 1/4". And press flat, having seams on Press everything with iron.
belly and back aligned. Head/body piece won't be flat
anymore.
 Drawing the face. Page 6

1 2 3

To draw the face - aline pattern They will be slightly different now, Insert a pin in the middle of eye
head with the fabric head. that's ok. and poke right through the fabrics.

4 5 6

Hold head tight to the pattern so While the needle is inserted draw Then take pin out and draw an eye
it doesn't shift, that way the eyes little marks where it made a hole. that you would like your mouse
will be where you want them. Draw marks on both sides of head. to have, try to make them the same
on both sides of head.

7 8

I prefer a small circle or oval.
You may also make eyes out of
buttons or beads, if so, you would
make them on the same stage
as embroidering the nose
and mouth.
You can also lay mouse pattern
beside the mouse to help you
see where nose and mouth should
be drawn. I prefer drawing mouth
and nose on the stuffed mouth,
it's easy at that point.
 Stuffing & sewing legs to body. Page 7

1 2 3

Now stuff the legs. Start by rolling

very small balls of fill and pushing Then continue to stuff leg with It might be a little tricky in the
them inside legs all the way to the small puffs of fill. I prefer to use beginning as the opening is
toes. This will help to keep them a flat side of a pencil to stuff. narrow.
filled.

4 5 6

Push every puff of fill down. Leave about 1/2" of legs empty
Try to stuff nice and tight and on top as you will need to
keep checking for any gaps. insert legs into body.

7 8 9

Align seams on leg together and
insert into body about 1/4" in.
Make sure toes are pointing
forward, and legs are same length.
Pin legs in place, or stay stitch
them there by hand prior to sewing
with machine.
You may also manipulate legs to
have toes pointing inwards slightly,
it adds cuteness to the toy.
Sew with small stitches about 1/8"
away from edge of body.
Make sure to back stitch when
you start and end this stitch line.
You may also choose to use a
decorative stitch line here.
 Stuffing & finishing arms and body. Page 8

1 2 3

To stuff arms also put a small ball

rolled from fill into the hands "Shoulder" part of arms don't have
to be firmly stuffed. Stuff as much fill in as you can.
(finger area) first.
Stuff firmly.

4 5 6

To finish off I make a couple

Push it all in and start sewing extra stitches and bring the thread To stuff head and body start by
the opening shut. out somewhere close to the seam. placing a small ball out of fill into
I like to use the ladder stitch. Trimming the access off, this way the nose.
there is no need for knots.

7 8 9

Then proceed to stuff with small Keep stuffing tightly. Use a preferred stuffing tool to
puffs of fill. help stuff the nose area firmly.

10
Pay close attention to the
roundness of head.
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Stuff the rest of body firmly.
You can insert a jingle or something
special like a felt heart at this point.
Try to avoid fill sticking out, hide it
inside by pushing it in.
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Continue sewing the opening
closed, making a few stitches
right through the tail twine for
extra durability.
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Keep stuffing and sliding fill
around until you are happy with
the result.
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Starting at the bottom begin
sewing the opening closed.
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Sew all the way up.
Trim tail to desired length and
make a tie at the end to keep
twine from unraveling.
Page 9
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The area where throat and cheeks
are is going to need a bit of extra
work, keep stuffing it until it's
nice and smooth looking with no
bumps. Having those tiny tight
stitches is coming in handy here.
15
After a few stitches upwards
insert a piece of twine with a knot
on the end inside the opening.
The knot should end up hidden
in the body.
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Body might appear a little out of
shape so you may press on it from
different angles to shift fill around
so it distributes more evenly.
 Embroidering the face. Page 10

1 2 3

To embroider the face I use 2

threads from the 6 that are in
average embroidery yarn. Insert needle with yarn in one eye. And have needle come out the
And preferably a needle that's Yarn should be about 15" long. other eye.
a little longer than the head
width of mouse.

4 5 6

Make an extra stitch to secure
thread in place and start to
embroider eye.
I prefer using a satin stitch for
eyes and nose.
Once you are done with one eye
go to the nose Embroider a triangle with a satin
by inserting needle into stitch for nose.
embroidered eye and bringing it out
where the nose will be.

7 Eyes 8 9

Nose Mouth

This is to help see stitches. Once done with nose finish the
other eye in the same manner.
 Page 11

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Once done with last eye
make an extra stitch and just insert
needle in the eye and bring
it out somewhere else.
If you see a little end of this yarn
just "pinch" the surrounding
Then trim it very close to fabric.
area and it should make the end
hide inside mouse.

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And start embroidering by inserting

Draw the mouth if you haven't yet. needle with rosy yarn in the head
and bringing it out right on the line
drawn for mouth.

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Using backstitch embroider mouth. Finish it off by hiding end of yarn

inside mouse again.
 Attaching arms. Page 12

1 2 3

To attach arms pin them on sides Bring it through the body and
Insert a long doll needle (with the through the arm. Then back
of body with 2 pins each. 6 threads in it) into body, right
prepare thread by folding it over through the arm, right trough the
where the arm will be attached. body, and through the other arm.
to end up with about 6 threads That's about 1/4" below arm
together, about 15" long. Then back through the arm and you
shoulder. end up right where you started.

4 5 6

Tie both ends a few times. Then insert long needle right Feed the ends of thread through
Make sure the arms are not too into the hole in body next to knot. needle hole once the needle
loose and not too tight. Where the thread is coming is in the body.
out of.

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Pull needle right through body

bringing ends of threads and knot
through that hole. This way you Trim the ends. Nice and clean.
hide ends of thread and the knot,
leaving a clean finish.
 Forming and attaching ears. Page 13

1 2 3

Fold the ear in half

leaving the inside of
ear outside.

4 5 6

Then fold those halves in half. With a matching thread sew this Nice and tight.
Now the inside of ear is inside. bottom of ear enough times that it Leaving the rest of thread attached,
holds this shape well. you can use it to sew ear to head.

7 8 9

Now find a place on the head where Mouse will look differently
you would like the ear to be. depending on where her ears will
end up.
 Page 14

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Once decided, sew ear to head.

Start by attaching the edges in Make as many stitches as it takes
front of ear, sew them tightly. to hold the ear in place firmly.

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Make a stitch or two in the middle As many stitches as it takes.

of ear, and then focus on attaching Make them tight. Nice and neat.
the back of ear firmly to head. Then hide end of thread in head
again.

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To find the right place for second

ear I like to look at the back
and align back of ear with the
back of attached ear. And start
attaching ear there working my
way towards the front of ear.
You may add blush to her cheeks
So satisfying when they turn out now. Simply rub the pencil tip
symmetrical. lightly where you'd like blush to be.
 Making a dress. Page 15

1 2 3

I prefer using tulle for a dress

for these mice. It's beautiful, I prefer laying it near the mouse and
doesn't fray so there is no need seeing how long I want it. This time After cutting the size you want...
to finish edges, and it's available I folded it over for more interesting
in most fabric shops. skirt/dress.

4 5 6

...sew 2 stitch lines with

wide stitches and low tension Then take a thread from each line, Take a long piece or ribbon and
on your machine. One line will the ones that came from the wrap it around mouse body.
be 1/4" from edge the next one bobbin when you were sewing.
about 1" away from first line.

7 8 9

Pin each side of ribbon where Spread gathers around evenly

they meet, these will be marks
for where tulle will edges will be.
If you are making a very full dress
with a lot of tulle then add a little
more length between pins .
Gather all of the tulle and
place ribbon over it.
Pin edges of gathered tulle
right where pins are on ribbon.
between pins.
Add more pins if it's getting away
too much, you want to be in
control when you sew down
the ribbon.

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With small stitches and medium
tension sew down the ribbon
to tulle. Sew it down with two
stitch lines, one on each edge of
ribbon.
13
Put the dress on mouse.
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Then remove all extra thread and
trim all thread ends.
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Tie a bow in back.
Page 16
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Cut end of ribbon slanted and
slightly melt them by exposing
to fire. This will ensure ends won't
unravel. Be careful with fire.
 Page 17
Making a crown.

CROWN PATTERN

1 2 3

To make a crown, cut out crown Leaving your finger inside crown
shape and sew the sides together will help keep it round and will
by hand. help align edges perfectly.
 Page 18

4 5 6

A few tight stitches is enough. Cut two slits on each side

Tie a knot inside crown and trim. Parallel to bottom of crown.
of crown.

7 8 9

Use a needle with a big hole,

such as long doll needle, thread Tie knots on ends of yarn
yarn you like. It should be long And push it right through the two
slits. and trim.
enough to go around doll's head
and tie in a bow.

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