Building a JCM800 preamp for recording

I was able to manufacture the enclosure at work, you will need to make or source a suitable enclosure for yourself.

If you want to listen to how this sounds, you can have a listen here

https://soundcloud.com/user-947013694/01-wont-fade-away

This was recorded with a Gibson Les Paul into the preamp, and the output of the preamp into a line in input of my audio
interface. I used the “speaker sim” output from the preamp and I did add a little EQ and a speaker sim on my digital
audio workstation.

In this zip file you will find a bill of material for the board, single sided pcb artwork, the schematic for the board and this
document.

I leave you to wire an external transformer up to the board, using proper mains techniques.

I used an IEC inlet with integral fuse & switch to make things easy. You will need a transformer with an output of 15-0-
15VAC (30VAC centre tap) and another output of 200VAC.

If you cant get a single transformer, you can use two single transformers instead.

The first transformer would be a 25VA 15-0-15VAC transformer. This connects to 15 – 0 – 15 on the board. You can use
a 240V to 18V 6VA (or so) for the second transformer wired backwards. The 18V secondary connects to one of the 15V
outputs from the main transformer and the 240V primary connects to the board terminals 0V and 200V

Bare boards
Parts mounted on each board, except for pots

Pots added and tube board mounted

The pot shafts will need to be cut to fit whatever knobs you plan to use.

I used legs from 3A diodes bent at 90 degrees to mount the tube board.

I added C3 (47p or 100p 400V or better) between pins 1 & 3 of V1, I just soldered this direct to the valve socket pins.

The pcb artwork attached already has this as part of the pcb artwork, but the capacitor will still need to be soldered on
the back of the board.
IC’s installed and wired up for testing

You will need to run a wire to the back of each of the pots and down to the board. There is a pad called POT CASE for
this purpose.

The bright switch connects to the pads BR on the piggyback valve board.

The output switch connects from DIR and CAB to each side of the switch, and from the centre switch pin to OUT

You will also need to run a wire from +12V and -12V from the main board, up to the pads marked +12 and -12 on the
piggyback valve board.

There is also a wire link that needs to be run on the piggyback valve board between the two pads marked 0V

Please take appropriate care with mains wiring.

There are two 4mm mounting holes at the back of the board. The one at the top left of the picture above provides a
connection to the earthed chassis so use a metal spacer and ensure you have a good connection to the chassis. DO NOT
use a nylon insulating spacer for this !
Board mounted in the chassis, knobs fitted, waiting for the installation of the transformer