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Wicking and drying properties of conventional ring- and vortex-spun cotton


yarns and fabrics

Article  in  Journal of the Textile Institute · December 2013


DOI: 10.1080/00405000.2013.799258

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Wicking and drying properties of conventional ring-


and vortex-spun cotton yarns and fabrics
a a
Nazan Erdumlu & Canan Saricam
a
Department of Textile Engineering, Istanbul Technical University, Istanbul, Turkey.
Published online: 21 Jun 2013.

To cite this article: Nazan Erdumlu & Canan Saricam (2013) Wicking and drying properties of conventional ring- and vortex-
spun cotton yarns and fabrics, The Journal of The Textile Institute, 104:12, 1284-1291, DOI: 10.1080/00405000.2013.799258

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The Journal of The Textile Institute, 2013
Vol. 104, No. 12, 1284–1291, http://dx.doi.org/10.1080/00405000.2013.799258

Wicking and drying properties of conventional ring- and vortex-spun cotton yarns and
fabrics
Nazan Erdumlu* and Canan Saricam
Department of Textile Engineering, Istanbul Technical University, Istanbul, Turkey
(Received 24 January 2013; final version received 22 April 2013)

This study investigated the vertical wicking, water absorption and drying properties of vortex- and ring-spun
combed cotton yarns and knitted fabrics comparatively. The yarns were produced in three different counts as 30
Ne, 40 Ne and 50 Ne. The experimental results revealed that vortex-spun yarns had lower yarn and fabric wicking
and water absorption values than ring-spun yarns. In addition, it was observed that yarn type did not have a
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significant impact on the drying time of the fabrics.


Keywords: vortex; MVS; ring; yarn wicking; fabric wicking; drying; cotton

Introduction liquid within the textile structure is called as wicking


The latest development in air-jet spinning technology is (Patnaik, Rengasamy, Kothari, & Ghosh, 2006). The
the murata vortex spinner (MVS), which was first intro- wicking performance of the fabrics and clothing assem-
duced at the Osaka International Textile Machinery blies is significantly affected by the wicking perfor-
Show (OTEMAS) '97 by Murata Machinery Ltd., tar- mance of the yarn. Many parameters, such as fibre type
geting the regular wear and casual fashion markets. and composition, yarn structure, twist level and distri-
Besides the main characteristics of modern spinning bution, number of fibres in yarn cross-section and fibre
technologies, such as elimination of processing stages configuration in yarn, determine the wicking perfor-
and ease of automation, distinctive features of the mance of spun and filament yarns (Das, Kothari, &
system have claimed to be capable of spinning 100% Balaji, 2007; Hamdaoui, Fayala, & Nasrallah, 2007;
carded cotton yarn and obtaining ring-like yarn Ito & Muraoka, 1993; Liu, Choi, & Li, 2008; Lord,
structure at extremely high production speeds of up to 1974; Nyoni & Brook, 2006; Ozturk, Nergis, &
500 m/min (http://www.muratec-vortex.com). In addi- Candan, 2011; Subramaniam, Natarajan, Mohammed,
tion to the low hairiness of the vortex yarns, low pilling & Nirmala, 1988; Subramanian, Venkatachalam, &
tendency and high abrasion resistance were also proved Subramaiam, 2007; Wang, Zha, & Wang, 2008). The
in the experimental studies done so far (Basal & Oxen- wicking behaviour of different yarn types including
ham, 2003; Beceren & Nergis, 2008; Erdumlu, 2011; conventional ring-, compact, and siro-spun yarns and
Kilic & Okur, 2011; Leitner, Schwippl, & Baldischwiel- open-end rotor yarns has been investigated by a num-
er, 2010; Ortlek & Onal, 2008; Ortlek & Ulku, 2004; ber of researchers so far. Lord compared the perfor-
Rameshkumar, Anandkumar, Senthilnathan, Jeevitha, mance of open-end rotor and ring-spun yarns in terms
& Anbumani, 2008; Soe, Takahashi, Nakajima, Matsuo, of wicking behaviour in terry towelling (Lord, 1974).
& Matsumoto, 2004). Moreover, high moisture absorp- Subramaniam et al. (1988) used vertical wicking test
tion capacity and fast drying characteristics of the method for measuring the wicking properties of siro-
fabrics made from vortex-spun yarns are emphasised as spun yarns. In another study, Subramanian et al. (2007)
the outstanding features of this novel principle by the studied the wicking behaviour of conventional ring-
machinery maker (http://www.muratec-vortex.com). and jet-ring spun and other types of compact yarns
Moisture transport in textile materials directly produced in various compact spinning systems. In this
affects the end-use performance of the products. The study, the wicking and drying properties of vortex-spun
behaviour of the yarns and fabrics while in contact yarns and knitted fabrics in comparison with ring-spun
with liquid is an important indicator of the comfort fea- yarns and fabrics was investigated in order to point out
tures of the textiles. The capillary movement of any the comfort characteristics of this novel yarn.

*Corresponding author. Email: okurn@itu.edu.tr

Ó 2013 The Textile Institute


The Journal of The Textile Institute 1285
pffiffiffiffiffiffi
Materials and methods tex
Tightness factor (K) ¼ ; (2)
Cotton fibre was used in the production of the yarn l
samples. The cotton fibre has the following properties,
which were measured on the Uster HVI 900 testing where l is the stitch length in cm.
instrument: 30.14 mm upper half mean length, 4.3
micronaire, 5.4% elongation at break and 33.2 cN/tex Density of fabric (g=cm3 )
Porosity (%) ¼ 1  ; (3)
tenacity. For the production of yarn samples, combed Density of fibric (g=cm3 )
cotton yarn-spinning processes were followed. 18%
noils were eliminated during the combing process. Sec- where 1.54 g/cm3 was used as the density of the cotton
ond-passage drawing slivers were converted into roving fibre (Mishra, 2005).
before spinning for ring-spun yarns, while an additional
drawing process after the second draw frame was used Density of fabric (g=cm3 )
for vortex-spun yarns before spinning in order to Fabric weight (g=cm2 )
improve the sliver evenness and fibre alignment. Ring ¼ : (4)
Fabric thickness=(cm)
yarns in three different counts, including 30/1 Ne, 40/1
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Ne and 50/1 Ne, were produced on a Rieter G30 ring The yarn wicking experiments were carried out by
frame, and vortex yarns in the same counts were pro- using vertical wicking test method proposed by Liu
duced on a MVS 851 spinning frame. The major spin- et al. (2008). One end of the yarn samples was
ning parameters are given in Table 1. Fabric samples clamped and the other end was immersed in distilled
were knitted on a Pilotelli single jersey circular knitting water. To enhance the observation of the rise of water
machine with a gauge of 28, diameter of 32 inches level in the yarn, reactive red dye was added into the
(81.28 cm) and 96 feeders. Yarn and fabric samples distilled water. The height of the water raised along the
were scoured before testing. In the scouring process, yarn was recorded in 5 min, measured at 30-second
0.9 g/l wetter (Setawet BTS), 1.2 g/l peroxide stabilizer intervals. An average of 10 tests was taken to represent
(Setabicol A-3), 2.4 ml/l caustic, 3.6 ml/l hydrogen per- the wicking height of yarns.
oxide (35%) and 2 g/l acedic acid (99%) were used. Vertical strip wicking test in accordance with DIN
Properties of the yarn and fabric samples are given in 53924 (1997) was used in order to measure the wick-
Table 2. The yarn count, the number of courses and ing properties of the fabrics in both wale and course
wales per cm, stitch length and weight and thickness of directions. The height of the water raised in 5 min was
the fabrics were measured according to the relevant measured at 30-second intervals. Water absorbency of
standards (TS 244 EN ISO 2060, 1999; TS 251, 2008; the fabric samples was measured according to the
TS EN 14970, 2006; TS EN 14971, 2006; and TS 7128 method used by Mukhopadhyay, Ishtiaque, and Uttam
EN ISO 5084, 1998). The stitch density, tightness factor (2011). The specimens were cut with a round cutter,
and the porosity of the fabric samples were calculated each having an area of 100 cm2 and weight (W1). The
from Equations (1)–(4), respectively. samples were dipped in distilled water at about 10-cm
course wales depth. After six hours, the specimens were taken out
Stitch density ¼  ; (1)
cm cm and kept on a sponge sheet in a closed room for

Table 1. Process parameters.

Ring MVS
Ne 30/1 Ne 40/1 Ne 50/1 Ne 30/1 Ne 40/1 Ne 50/1
Roving count (Ne) 0.86 0.86 0.86 – – –
Sliver count (Ne)
2nd passage drawing 0.120 0.120 0.120 0.120 0.120 0.120
Sliver count (Ne)
3rd passage drawing – – – 0.211 0.211 0.236
Twist (T/m) 867 968 1085 – – –
Spindle speed (rpm) 15,000 15,000 15,000 – – –
Rotor speed (rpm) – – – – – –
Delivery speed (m/min) 17.3 15.5 13.8 360 340 320
Break draft 1.19 1.19 1.19 – – –
Total draft 37.5 49.1 60.3 155 186 204
Main draft – – – 43 48 54
Nozzle air pressure (kPa) – – – 0.45 0.45 0.45
1286 N. Erdumlu and C. Saricam

Table 2. Properties of yarn and fabric samples.

Yarn Yarn Fabric Stitch Fabric Fabric


Yarn count count CV weight Courses/ Wales/ Stitch density length Tightness thickness porosity
type (Ne) (%) (g/cm2) cm cm (stitches/cm2) (cm) (K) (cm) (%)
Vortex 28.93 1.05 0.0146 22 13 286 0.286 16 0.0613 84.58
Ring 28.75 0.58 0.0151 23 13 277 0.271 17 0.0600 83.64
Vortex 39.93 2.79 0.0107 22 13 286 0.279 14 0.0550 86.42
Ring 40.50 1.44 0.0108 23 13 299 0.271 14 0.0570 87.73
Vortex 49.62 1.60 0.0093 21 18 378 0.245 14 0.0533 89.37
Ring 49.50 0.49 0.0087 21 14 294 0.265 13 0.0526 88.48

30 min to remove the excess surface water. Subse- equality of variance in different samples to determine
quently, the weight of the fabrics (W2) was recorded which type of post hoc test should be used. The vari-
and the water absorbency of the fabric samples was ances are accepted as equal where the significance
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calculated according to Equation (5) given below: level value (p value) is greater than the level of signif-
icance; otherwise, they are accepted as unequal.
W2  W1 Tukey’s post hoc test was used when the variances
Water absorbency (%) ¼  100: (5)
W1 were equal, and Dunnett’s T3 post hoc test was used
for unequal variances (Carver & Nash, 2006; Leech,
For measuring drying behaviour of the fabrics, the Barrett, & Morgan, 2005).
method of Coplan (1953) and Fourt, Sookne, Frish-
man, and Harris (1951) was followed. Fabric speci-
mens in 4  4 cm dimension were soaked in distilled Results and discussion
water for 30 min. Then, the specimens were removed Yarn wicking
from water and suspended vertically for 15 s, and then The results of the analysis of variance test regarding
laid on a dry paper towel for 2 min on each side. The the evaluation of the significance of yarn type and
samples were weighed at half-hour intervals as drying yarn count and their interactions on yarn wicking,
progressed. When the measurement value was 105% fabric wicking, drying time and absorption properties
of the dry conditioned weight, the test was ended. The are reported in Table 3.
average values of five tests were presented for each Yarn wicking results over a 5-minute period are
fabric sample in water absorbency and wicking and shown in Table 4 and illustrated in Figure 1. The
drying behaviour. All tests were carried out under independent t-test results revealed that ring-spun yarns
standard atmospheric conditions, i.e. 20 ± 2°C temper- had higher yarn wicking values than those of vortex-
ature and 65 ± 2% relative humidity. The samples were spun yarns for each yarn count. According to Patnaik
conditioned for a minimum of 24 h before tests. et al. (2006), there must be an optimum capillary size
In order to evaluate the significance of the yarn that will cause fastest entry of water into the yarn
type and yarn count and their interactions on yarn pores. Both smaller and larger optimum pores
wicking, fabric wicking, drying and absorption proper- slow down the entry due to low capillary pressure.
ties, the analysis of variance was performed on the Therefore, the lower fibre-packing density value of
test results by using general linear model procedure at vortex-spun yarn than that of conventional ring-spun
the 95% level of confidence in SPSS 20 software yarn at both yarn centre and the surface (Zheng, Zou,
package. Independent samples’ t-test and post hoc test Shen, & Cheng, 2012) might have resulted in lower
were utilized to identify the differences among the wicking height in vortex yarns due to larger capillary
sample means. Levene’s test was used to assess the size than the optimum.

Table 3. Analysis of variance test results.

Fabric wicking
Yarn wicking Wale direction Course direction Drying time Absorption
Yarn type s s s s s
Yarn count s s s ns s
Yarn type  yarn count ns ns ns s ns
Notes: significant; ns: non-significant at the confidence level of 95%.
The Journal of The Textile Institute 1287

Table 4. Wicking height of yarn samples (cm).

Time (min)
Yarn count Yarn type 0.5 1 1.5 2 2.5 3.0 3.5 4.0 4.5 5.0
Vortex 30 Ne 1.24 1.85 2.30 2.65 2.97 3.22 3.44 3.66 3.81 3.92
Ring 2.12 3.02 3.57 4.10 4.47 4.75 5.03 5.25 5.45 5.64
Vortex 40 Ne 1.57 2.07 2.55 2.90 3.20 3.47 3.75 3.90 4.10 4.28
Ring 2.39 3.26 3.87 4.32 4.71 4.97 5.23 5.38 5.48 5.63
Vortex 50 Ne 1.62 2.18 2.57 2.86 3.10 3.28 3.45 3.59 3.68 3.75
Ring 2.55 3.32 3.83 4.16 4.39 4.61 4.73 4.86 4.93 4.97

Fabric wicking
Table 5 presents the wicking height of the fabric
samples, and the wicking heights after 5 min are
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demonstrated in Figure 3. The results of the analysis


revealed that wicking heights of fabrics made of
vortex-spun yarns were significantly lower than those
of ring-spun yarns, revealing that the wicking property
of the yarns was directly reflected on the wicking
behaviour of the fabrics, which are in compatibility
with the findings of Ozturk et al. (2011). The correla-
tion coefficient between yarn wicking height and
fabric wicking height in wale and course directions
Figure 1. Yarn wicking. are 0.54 and 0.56, respectively. It is also noteworthy
to mention that the fabrics made of ring-spun yarns
Lower wicking height in vortex-spun yarns might wicked more evenly than the fabrics made from
also be due to tight wrappings along the yarn length, vortex yarns. In other words, while the water raised
which can be observed in Figure 2. While ring yarn almost to the same level everywhere along the speci-
has a more regular structure along the yarn length, men width, it did not rise at some parts of the fabric.
vortex yarn has a crimped yarn axis and tight wrap- This can be clearly observed in Figure 4.
pings might prevent or retard wicking. In addition, Moreover, although any significant difference was
although the effect of yarn count was found to be not observed in wicking heights of the yarn samples
significant with regard to yarn wicking, no significant with regard to yarn count, the wicking heights in the
difference was observed with regard to yarn count for fabric samples were significantly higher for both yarn
both yarn types. types as the yarn becomes finer. This result may be

Figure 2. Comparison of the structures of ring and vortex yarns (Erdumlu, 2011).
1288 N. Erdumlu and C. Saricam

Table 5. Wicking height of fabric samples (cm).

Time (min)
Yarn count Yarn type Direction 0.5 1 1.5 2 2.5 3 3.5 4 4.5
30 Ne Ring wale 2.10 3.24 4.10 4.74 5.34 5.74 6.16 6.46 6.74
course 2.26 3.28 4.04 4.62 5.04 5.40 5.74 6.06 6.40
Vortex wale 0.60 0.72 0.88 1.02 1.12 1.22 1.36 1.44 1.52
course 1.02 1.52 1.88 2.32 2.70 3.06 3.38 3.64 3.88
40 Ne Ring wale 3.32 4.48 5.24 5.88 6.40 6.84 7.26 7.60 7.92
course 2.76 3.82 4.48 5.02 5.46 5.86 6.22 6.58 6.82
Vortex wale 1.54 2.02 2.24 2.46 2.64 2.72 2.82 2.96 3.30
course 0.90 1.42 1.92 2.40 2.76 3.10 3.38 3.66 3.86
50 Ne Ring wale 5.10 6.34 7.20 7.82 8.36 8.90 9.36 9.72 10.10
course 3.96 4.92 5.60 6.16 6.58 6.98 7.32 7.62 7.90
Vortex wale 1.82 2.50 3.08 3.68 4.08 4.46 4.76 5.06 5.46
course 1.70 2.50 2.96 3.34 3.74 4.14 4.52 4.80 5.10
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completely filled, the liquid moves to the larger pores.


Consequently, as the yarn becomes finer, the larger
pores exist within the fabric, and therefore fabric
wicking height was found to be higher for both yarn
types as the yarn becomes finer.
It was observed that the fabric samples made of
ring-spun yarns had higher wicking heights in wale
direction in comparison to course direction, which is
in accordance with the findings of Yoon and Buckley
(1984); whereas, except for the fabric sample knitted
Figure 3. Wicking height of fabric samples after 5 min from vortex yarn in count of 30 Ne, any significant
(cm).
impact was not observed between the wicking heights
in the wale and course direction of the fabric samples
attributed to the higher porosity of the fabrics knitted made of vortex-spun yarns. The decrease in wale-wise
from finer yarns since for a given yarn structure, wicking height in the fabrics made of ring-spun yarns
higher fabric porosity gives a higher wicking rate can be attributed to the disturbance of the continuity
(Behera, Ishtiaque, & Chand, 1997). In addition, of the capillaries (Nyoni & Brook, 2006). On the
Wong (2001) reported that according to the capillary other hand, wicking along vortex-spun yarn was not
principle, smaller pores are filled first and influence even and continuous in neither wale nor course
the liquid’s front movement. As the smaller pores are direction.

(a) (b) (c)

Figure 4. (a) Wale-wise wicking (vortex yarn), (b) course-wise wicking (vortex yarn), and (c) wale-wise wicking (ring yarn).
The Journal of The Textile Institute 1289

Figure 5. Water absorption rates of fabrics.

Figure 6. Initial water amount and drying time of the


Water absorbency fabric samples.
Water absorption rates of the fabric samples are illus-
trated in Figure 5. As shown in Figure 5, the water from 40 Ne to 50 Ne ring-spun yarns, whereas that
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absorption rate tended to increase as the yarn becomes difference is not significant for vortex-spun yarns.
finer for both yarn types. This result may be attributed Finally, in both yarn types, the drying times are signif-
to the relatively higher porosity values of the fabrics icantly different when comparing the counts 30 Ne
knitted from finer yarns. If the porosity increases, and 50 Ne. According to Laing, Wilson, Gore, Carr,
water entrapment by the pores also increases (Das, and Niven (2007), drying time is correlated positively
Das, Kothari, Fanguiero, & Araujo, 2009). with both fabric thickness and the mass of water
With regard to yarn type, the experimental data retained in the fabric, following the wetting treatment.
revealed that the fabrics knitted from vortex spun Therefore, drying time was generally observed to
yarns had generally lower water absorbency rate when decrease in finer fabrics as the fabric thickness and
compared to the fabrics knitted from ring-spun yarns. initial water amount in the fabric decreased. In
The uneven wicking behaviour of the fabrics made Figure 6, the amount of water initially held in the wet
of vortex-spun yarn was also observed in water fabric and the drying time are illustrated.
absorbency. That is to say, water was not absorbed in
some parts of the fabrics made of vortex-spun yarn.
Conclusions
In this study, vertical wicking, water absorption and
Drying behaviour drying properties of vortex and ring spun yarns and
Drying properties of the fabric samples are given in knitted fabrics were discussed comparatively. The sta-
Table 6. According to the analysis of variance results tistical analysis showed that yarn type has a significant
(see Table 3), the effect of the interaction of yarn impact on yarn wicking, fabric wicking and water
count and yarn type was found statistically significant absorbency. Accordingly, vortex-spun yarns had lower
on drying time of the fabric samples. It means that the yarn and fabric wicking values than ring-spun yarns.
effect of the yarn count on drying time depends on This result can be attributed to the differences between
which yarn type is being considered. Accordingly, the yarn structures. Vortex-spun yarn has a crimped
while there is no significant difference between drying yarn axis and tight wrappings along the yarn length
times of the fabrics knitted from 30 Ne to 40 Ne ring- which can disturb the continuity of the capillaries.
spun yarns, that difference is significant for vortex- Moreover, the fabrics knitted from vortex-spun yarns
spun yarns. On the other hand, there is a significant had generally lower water absorbency rate. In addition,
difference between drying times of the fabrics knitted it was observed that fabrics knitted from ring-spun

Table 6. Drying properties of fabric samples.

Yarn Yarn Fabric thickness Dry fabric weight Initial wet-out fabric Initial water Drying time
count type (mm) (g) weight (g) amount (g) (h)
30 Ne Ring 0.600 0.30 0.62 0.32 2.44
Vortex 0.613 0.30 0.62 0.32 2.60
40 Ne Ring 0.570 0.21 0.46 0.25 2.33
Vortex 0.550 0.22 0.46 0.24 1.96
50 Ne Ring 0.526 0.17 0.35 0.18 1.71
Vortex 0.533 0.19 0.41 0.22 1.83
1290 N. Erdumlu and C. Saricam

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water was not wicked and absorbed in some parts of for intermediate statistics, use and interpretation (2nd
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