OVP (OverVoltage Protection) relay test procedures

By H.D., updated July 9, 2020

(extract from https://www.benzworld.org/threads/the-ovp-relay.3054198/)

This how-to guide refers solely to Merdedes equipped with KE-Jetronic !

The “E“ in KE-Jetronic is provided with power solely via the OVP. A problem with this component can cause a
number of symptoms like, for instance, cold start problems, or acceleration problems during the warm-up phase,
or high idle speed, or increased fuel consumption. But, with an otherwise proper system and the engine warmed
up, a faulty OVP can not cause the engine to stop and, thanks to the KE-Jetronic‘s unmatched limp home mode,
besides higher idle speed you even hardly notice OVP failure (failure of the complete “E“ in KE-Jetronic) during
driving at all. Often the OVP is suspected in case of issues the OVP has nothing to do with, which makes it one
of the most often unnecessarily replaced parts on CIS-E cars.

Supply voltage test:

In case of symptoms or Duty Cycle readings (see https://www.benzworld.org/threads/ke-jetronic-lambda-control-

duty-cycle-adjustment.2720049/ ) that do make the OVP a suspect, the first thing I recommend to do is a supply
voltage test at two engine dependent test spots on the disconnected connectors shown in the symbolic diagram
below, which is applicable to all MB CIS-E engines. With the key turned to ‘ignition on‘, there should be battery
voltage at the following test spots:

● M102 & M103 engine: (1) and (2)

● M104 & M119 engine: (1) and (3)
● M116 & M117 engine: (1) and (4)

IACV: Idle Air Control Valve

CSV: Cold Start Valve

Attention: Always disconnect / reconnect ECU connectors with ignition switched off !
CIS-E Mercedes are, engine dependently, equipped with a 25-pin or a 55-pin CIS-ECU (N3) - with the following
pin assignement:

This quick & easy test covers not only the OVP itself but also all involved wires & connections to and from the
OVP. Sometimes there is a problem with these things, while there is nothing wrong with the OVP itself !

IF there is battery voltage at the above test spots, the OVP and all involved wires & connections are in order.
However, consider that there could be an intermittent problem that just didn‘t appear during the test !
A test device like the one in https://www.benzworld.org/threads/on-board-ke-jetronic-test-device.2906786/ allows
for comfortable monitoring/detection of (not only) OVP related intermittent problems during driving.

IF you do not see battery voltage at the above test spots:

1) Check the OVP‘s fuse(s)

2) If the fuse(s) is/are blown, remove the OVP and check for short(s):
● between ground and each of the two above mentioned engine dependent test spots
● and between OVP pin “31“ and each of its pins labeled “87..“

Fix short(s) between the former (if any), respectively replace the OVP in case of short(s) between the latter.
Then replace the fuse(s) and repeat the above supply voltage test.

3) If the fuse(s) is/are good, remove the OVP and make sure that there is:
● continuity between the above test spots & the corresponding OVP socket port(s)
● continuity between ground & (solely!) OVP socket port 5
● battery voltage at OVP socket port 1
● voltage ‘15‘ (battery voltage) at OVP socket port 3 (solely) with key turned to ‘ignition on‘
(If port 3 is empty, use port 6)
● no mechanical problem with the OVP socket & the connector ports

4) If these things are in order, then there is a problem with the OVP itself. In that case either replace it, or open
it and check for cold solder joints on its circuit board - best with a magnifying glas. In most cases the latter is
the problem - which, with a little soldering skill, can easily be fixed.

If you want to test a replacement/resoldered OVP before installing it, here‘s a simple bench test:
● connect pin 30 to the positive terminal of a 12 V battery
● connect pin 31 and the voltmeter‘s ground lead to its negative terminal
● now there should be battery voltage at pins 30a, 30b
● there should be no voltage at pins 15, 87E, 87L
(often overlooked potential cause of “unexplainable“ battery drain, by the way !)
● connect pin 15 to the positive terminal of the battery (you should hear the OVP click)
● now there should be battery voltage at pins 87E, 87L

For the above bench test you can also heat the OVP (with a hairdryer) or cool it (in the freezer) to check for
temperature dependent / intermittent problems.
To simplify the use of the above test diagram, the following illustrations show the engine dependent supply
voltage wires and test spots, highlighted in color:

H.D.