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THE Penang government held a simple Chinese New Year celebration to share festive joy
with the community.
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Phang showing the horn clam (left) and flower crab (right) caught in the net by fishermen off
Jalan Sultan Ahmad Shah. — Photos: KT GOH/The Star
EVERY few days when the tide charts bid good omen, a small group of artisanal fishermen
in the city limits go out to sea on small skiffs in search of a relatively rare delicacy — live
flower crabs.
Flower crabs are often seen in most markets, but live ones are relatively rare. Unlike mud
crabs, flower crabs do not survive long out of the water.
More surprisingly, these fishermen bring back a startling variety of exotic shellfish, some
probably never before seen in the usual markets or restaurants.
These fishermen are almost an unknown “living heritage” of the city.For almost 50 years,
little has changed in their classic and proven practices at the beach less than 2km north of
George Town’s heritage enclave in Jalan Sultan Ahmad Shah.Only a lucky few who know
how to contact them will get a pail or two of these rarely seen shellfish to enjoy.Among the
fishermen is 78-year-old veteran Neoh Oh Yeoh, who honed his skills for over 40 years.
Now, he stays at shore and helps mend nets and handle the catches other fishermen bring
back.
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“After nets as tall as humans are laid on the seabed with sinkers, the currents bring various
creatures to get entangled in them.
“We need to study the tide, flow of current and seasons, when the animals are active or
available. We don’t have technology. Only experience guides us.
“Flower crabs used to be worth only RM3 per 600g when I started but due to more people
appreciating their scarcity, the crabs now cost RM50 per kg,” said Neoh, whose two sons
have now taken over the family business.
Among newest acolytes learning this old way of catching live flower crabs is 40-year-old
Phang Peow Meng, who joined a few years ago.
“It’s hard to survive in this small community, but it’s rare and an honour to be accepted and
to learn.
“One needs to not only be skilful but also bear the tedious task of cleaning upon returning to
shore.
“We spend about two hours setting and retrieving the nets at sea and a further three to four
hours more on the beach untangling the catches from the nets,” said Phang.
He added that although flower crabs were the target, other shellfish such as horn clams,
oysters, horseshoe crabs and many species of mussels would end up getting caught.
Their catches never reach the local markets as happy buyers are always waiting by the beach
to snap everything up.
“Since the end of 2020, the amount of flower crabs caught has dropped from about 10kg per
trip to just about 3kg now.
“Occasionally, we get exotic crabs or shellfish such as melo melo, a large sea snail. This is a
delicacy not for the faint-of-heart,” concluded Phang.
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THE Penang government held a simple Chinese New Year celebration to share festive joy
with the community.
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