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CAROLYN KORSMEYER

Aesthetic Deception: On Encounters with the Past

In 1998 archeologists conducting a site inspection This may seem an odd anecdote to introduce a
for the development of the harborfront of the city subject in aesthetics, for engineering feat though it
of Buffalo discovered the remnants of the original may have been, no one has claimed that the canal
terminus of the Erie Canal.1 This structure, known terminus represents a thing of beauty; nor except
as Commercial Slip, once opened a shipping chan- in the most extended sense can it be considered
nel into the Buffalo River and thence to Lake Erie a work of art. But I have chosen this example in
and points west. After a hundred years of use it the hope that by selecting an object with only one
had been buried and built over, and by the late important aesthetic feature, I can show that this
twentieth century the old harbor was overshad- feature is presumed by other objects whose more
owed by elevated highways and empty grain ele- obvious aesthetic merits overshadow it. What the
vators. The redevelopment project was designed to uncovered site possesses is the property of be-
revive the area with recreation and tourist attrac- ing the real western terminus of the Erie Canal.
tions, including the reproduction of a portion of Because of this, it has claims on attention that a
the historic canal district. When the original canal replica would not, even though a replica might be
terminus was discovered, plans continued to build more like the original site in its entirety. The plan-
a nearby replica. The old site was to be reburied; ners of the replica project also presumed that it
perhaps its outline would be marked on the pave- would have greater aesthetic appeal. In this sur-
ment above to indicate its presence underground. mise they were wrong; I hope here to explore why.
But the historic “feel” of old Buffalo—the “experi- ‘Authentic,’ ‘original,’ ‘real,’ and ‘genuine’ are
ence” of the nineteenth-century canal town—was related but not synonymous terms, and apposite
to be evoked by a reproduction slip, by an area of usage depends on object and context. I use both
newly laid cobblestone streets, and by interpretive ‘genuine’ and ‘authentic’ to conduct this study.
centers and signage, all of which presented fewer Invoking any of these concepts invites an array
engineering and financial complications. of familiar puzzles: metaphysical, epistemic, and
To the apparent consternation of officials in ethical—as well as aesthetic. What counts as gen-
charge of the project, this plan met vigorous re- uine or authentic for an object that inevitably
sistence from the vocal majority of citizens, who changes over time, for example, especially one that
might have been presumed to have no interest in has been damaged and restored? By what means
what was now little more than a hole in the ground. do we recognize genuineness? What exactly do
There were heated public debates, newspaper arti- such terms modify, and what kinds of value do
cles, courtroom hearings, injunctions, and demon- they invoke? What does the ontological state of an
strations. Under pressure, the state development object matter if it delivers a full and enjoyable ex-
plan was revised, and it was decided to uncover, perience? While not inseparable, these questions
restore, and rewater the old Commercial Slip, re- are sufficiently connected that answers to one have
taining not only its site but also the original lime- consequences for the others.
stone walls that had been christened with a splash Despite the daunting problems presented by
from a bucket by Governor Dewitt Clinton in 1825 the concept itself, I intend to defend genuineness
when the canal was opened. as an aesthetic property, an aesthetic value, and

The Journal of Aesthetics and Art Criticism 66:2 Spring 2008



c 2008 The American Society for Aesthetics
118 The Journal of Aesthetics and Art Criticism

a feature of experience. I shall not engage gen- senses (as I do), how it feels or smells or tastes.
eral debates over the ontology of aesthetic prop- Imagination and cultural competence inform man-
erties, a term I use to refer to aesthetically salient ifest properties, although they also complicate the
properties—those that contribute to an object’s task of separating perceptually discernible qual-
aesthetic value, no matter how they are under- ities from those that require additional informa-
stood.2 I shall argue that ‘genuine’ names a pre- tion. Probably fewer theorists, when pressed, hold
sumptive property of objects that legitimately af- strong aesthetic empiricism than at first appears.7
fects experience whether or not it is perceptually But considering its implications not only musters
discernible. Other aesthetic properties depend on a case against the empiricist stress on manifest
it, and—even more important for my focus—it can properties, it also reveals weaknesses in other ap-
itself be the direct intentional focus of an aes- proaches to aesthetic salience that would locate
thetic encounter. I shall not, however, presume aesthetic value only in experience.8
that terms like ‘genuine’ are synonyms for ‘best’ In what follows, I shall join the (fairly
such that a genuine object is ipso facto aesthet- large) camp that opposes aesthetic empiricism,
ically better than a replica or an adaptation, al- and, more generally, aesthetic “experientialism,”
though I do think that genuineness commands re- adding to the arguments for that opposition some
spect even if it does not guarantee other aesthetic observations about modes of sense experience
virtues.3 that are relatively seldom considered: taste and
A locution I use frequently, ‘aesthetic en- touch. Emphasis on these proximal senses will nar-
counter,’ indicates that I endorse an old theoretical row my scope, for measures of genuineness vary
usage connoting a type of apprehension or grasp considerably by both type and purpose of object.
of an object.4 This approach emphasizes cognitive While some of the topics I consider are relevant for
engagement, which includes the more commonly practical decisions about restoration and preser-
invoked notion of “experience” but stresses the vation, these are not my focus. Nor are the new
singular insight gained therefrom. The traditional and perplexing questions about authenticity pre-
way to describe this brand of apprehension is to sented by digital storage of images and texts.9 The
note that it requires first hand, direct acquaintance performance arts present still other concerns, vari-
and that it delivers a kind of affective illumination. ant for music, dance, and theater—large subjects I
While the general requirement of direct acquain- shall also skirt. Indeed, the standard arts will play
tance is sometimes questioned, it is indispensable only a minor role in this discussion. I am inter-
for the kinds of cases that will concern me here.5 ested in genuineness as it pertains to objects with
Aesthetic encounters are apprehensions of their tangible presence—loosely speaking, material
objects, and one can be mistaken about those ob- objects.
jects, for the moment of experience is not self- Why mingle ideas about taste and touch in an
validating. Hence the possibility, and sometimes exploration of genuineness? These senses have
the gravity, of aesthetic deception. less history in aesthetic discourse, and I am inter-
Genuineness may seem hard to defend as an ested in probing aspects of their operation that
aesthetically important property (though not as an might have been slighted or overlooked. The ob-
artistic or a historical property) because it is not re- jects of these two senses provide stark contrasts:
liably discernible from perceptual encounters. Sci- fleeting, ephemeral, and “subjective”; and endur-
entific measurements, historical research, trusted ing, stable, and “objective.”10 Objects of taste are
authority, and so forth are needed to substantiate probably the very hardest to gauge in terms of au-
identification and provenance before genuineness thenticity, and it is tempting to place their aesthetic
can be insured, for perception and affective re- value entirely in the experiences they occasion. In
sponse alone may furnish few to no clues to the contrast, objects of touch may be comparatively
matter. long-lasting, and it is tempting to presume that the
There is a school of thought, sometimes dubbed genuine object is simply the one that continuously
“aesthetic empiricism,” that would locate all aes- endures. These initial impressions are both com-
thetic properties within the set of those that are monsensical and highly misleading.
manifest in experience.6 Manifest properties in- This argument will proceed with a heteroge-
clude sensory properties: how something looks neous set of examples, including historical ar-
or sounds, and, if one countenances the bodily tifacts, nature, works of art, and food. As this
Korsmeyer Aesthetic Deception: On Encounters with the Past 119

list indicates, I do not conceive of the various tween a characteristic property and a property of
things modified as “aesthetic” to radiate outwards a substance is erased. No harm, no foul.
conceptually from art.11 Works of fine art are dis- However, experiences of manifest properties—
tinctive in that their chief value is aesthetic, and all including so subjective a phenomenon as a taste—
artworks are candidates for nontrivial aesthetic as- vary depending on the presumptive properties of
sessment. But one can grant that artworks provide their objects, even when at first it seems they
even the majority of compelling aesthetic cases should not. Suppose someone were finally to in-
without conceding that the concept of the aes- vent a convincing substitute for vanilla extract,
thetic is pro tanto a paradigmatically artistic con- one that truly delivers the taste characteristic of
cept, in relation to which other uses of the term vanilla. Suppose now that a restaurant reviewer
are derivative. savors a bite of crème brulée, praising the rich
crunch of caramelized sugar on top, the smooth
egginess of the custard, and just the right under-
i. perceptions and deceptions tone of vanilla. But the chef is promoting his new
artificial vanilla flavoring, and he whips a bottle of
Aesthetic encounters are often analyzed as per- Shamilla from behind his apron and declares that
ceptions; they are equally often investigated in- the wonderful flavor has its source in a chemical
sofar as emotional responses are called into play. combination quite innocent of vanilla beans. The
Pursuit of both affinities demonstrates the salience restaurant reviewer is now in an awkward position:
of genuineness. It will also confirm that ‘genuine’ she might reassess her experience and declare that
can never modify experience alone. she knew something was wrong with the flavor
If any experience is self-validating, one would after all, which smacks of illegitimate retrospec-
think it would be the assessment of the tastes of tion, or she might endorse the artificial flavor—
food and drink. It is commonly noted that taste gracefully or grudgingly. This is the obverse of
and smell operate together; but with few excep- Hume’s famous example of the wine tasters and
tions taste also requires haptic experience. (As it the key on a leather thong, for rather than the dis-
happens, in English the root for ‘taste’ also con- cernibility of a flavor distinction being validated
notes ‘touch.’) Gustatory taste furnishes aesthet- by reference to an object of taste, the distinction
ics with one of its early root metaphors partly between objects of taste seems to validate flavor
because the savoring of flavors manifest in eat- indiscernibility. If one cannot distinguish between
ing and drinking—and there is hardly more “di- the taste of vanilla and the taste characteristic
rect” acquaintance—is considered a valuable end of vanilla, then one might conclude—hastily and
in itself. Nonetheless, appreciation even of taste erroneously—that both would be equally genuine
sensations is importantly affected by correct iden- vanilla encounters.
tification of the substances consumed. This fact If Shamilla really has just the same flavor as
is obvious in certain contexts and hidden in oth- vanilla, then the immediate assessments of the ex-
ers because of an ambiguity in what we count as periences might indeed be the same. There has
a taste property—an ambiguity that extends into been deception, but it has been in the service
other sensory modes as well but is particularly no- of demonstrating that a distinction between two
table with tastes. substances is perceptually trivial, at least in the
Flavors are describable both as the tastes of moment. But it need not follow that it is also
a substance and as tastes characteristic of a aesthetically trivial—an extension that would pre-
substance. The peculiar sweetness of a familiar sume that the distinction between cause and ob-
granular substance is the taste of table sugar. ject of experience is inconsequential. If the critic
The sweetness of sugar substitutes is supposedly is assessing not only the immediate experience of
the taste characteristic of sugar, but it is really the a dessert but also the method of preparing a tra-
taste of the chemical surrogate. Perhaps this is a ditional dish or the quality of a particular batch
simple case of aesthetic deception: fool the tongue of vanilla beans, the extension clearly fails. Even
into thinking it is tasting sugar. But if one is inter- first-rate Shamilla has nothing to do with either the
ested only in immediate experience, there is noth- vanilla crop or culinary tradition. The point is this:
ing to be deceived about. If a substance and its differing causes of the taste sensation are aesthet-
surrogate are indistinguishable, the distinction be- ically irrelevant only if we have already decided
120 The Journal of Aesthetics and Art Criticism

that aesthetic salience lies entirely within imme- ness,” he said, with sudden gravity. “The only thing to do
diate experience and has no further meaning or is to recognise bravely that it is dead, and put it away.”
value. With a determined movement, he flung the remainder
What is more, the restaurant reviewer would of the wine into the fire.15
not be entirely unjustified in reassessing her ex-
perience. Like all sensory qualities, tastes can be Any theory that would cancel the distinction be-
somewhat ambiguous, requiring context and cor- tween “taste of” and “taste characteristic of” could
rect identification to be brought into focus. Is that make no sense of this scene.
flavor piquant or rancid? It matters whether one is Considering food and drink discloses two senses
eating Gorgonzola or drinking milk. Is that a sus- of “genuine” that may be aesthetically salient: the
picious whiff of ammonia? It matters whether one right kind of object and the right particular object.
is eating kidneys, Camembert, or a fish that was With exceptions, the objects of gustatory taste are
caught last month. In cases such as these, identifi- fungible and require only that they be the right
cation of the substance affects whether the taste is type of object. Any chocolate from the box will
subtle and recherché or disgusting. This variation present the same qualities and arouse the same
is not a figment of imagination about tastes char- response, though in rare cases, such as the fictional
acteristic of a substance, but the focus of a vague 1847 port, comestibles may become unique simply
sensation into a clear one that recognizes the taste because they are so rare.
of a substance.12 Just as the category that a partic- A skeptic might still insist that the assessment
ular work of art belongs to influences the aesthetic of sensory properties ought not change with the
properties ascribed it, as Kendall Walton has influ- discovery that one has been mistaken about the
entially observed, so the category of food affects identity of their cause. If my argument based on
both taste qualities and their valence.13 Among taste has not yet been convincing, consider that
wines, for instance, Riesling is sweet; among pas- aesthetic encounters are only partially illuminated
tries it is not. The pungency called haut goût may be in terms of perception; they are equally aligned
savored with meats but not with shellfish. Correct with emotional responses, and with some emotions
identification is not always significant; but when it presumptions about the identity of their objects
is, we are nearing the territory of genuineness and more obviously affect their tenor.16
its aesthetic import. Ronald de Sousa enlists a Greek myth to dra-
The French employ the concept of goût du ter- matize this feature of emotions, and the device
roir, the taste of place, the flavor imparted by the suits an aesthetic point equally well.17 He recalls
earth that nourished a product.14 It is a concept the case of Alcmene, a loving and faithful wife,
particularly pertinent to the assessment of wines, whom the lecherous Zeus was able to seduce
for soil affects the quality of grapes. The most cul- only when he disguised himself by assuming all
tivated palate supposedly can discern the place of of the perceptually discernible properties of her
origin of a vintage (though this difficult enterprise husband, Amphytrion. One may assume that her
may be more famous in parody than in actual- encounter with Zeus was experientially identical
ity). In this perceptual experience, savoring the with an encounter with Amphytrion, but Alcmene
substance includes diagnosing, recognizing, and in was aghast to discover the deception. No matter
some cases respecting and even honoring what is how loving the experience, the object of affection
eaten or drunk. The identity of the substance is was mistaken and was retrospectively recognized
presumed in all of those latter cases, and at least as in error, because love is one of the nonfungible
the last two can count as aesthetic judgments. Only emotions whose objects are not substitutable even
an authentic vintage, for example, would qual- with others that possess the same manifest proper-
ify for the following elegy to an ancient bottle of ties. It is not just that the experience would feel dif-
wine—taken from a fictional source but nonethe- ferent; rather authenticity is a property presumed
less plausible: in the encounter in order for that experience to
have come about in the first place. An incorrect
Truly enough the ’47 port was a dead thing; the merest presumption is an aesthetic error, and sometimes
ghost of its old flame and flavour hung about it. Lord an aesthetic deception.
Peter held his glass poised a moment. “It is like the taste Not every aesthetic encounter rises or falls with
of a passion that has passed its noon and turned to weari- correct identification. It can be a trivial matter,
Korsmeyer Aesthetic Deception: On Encounters with the Past 121

as is the use of sugar substitutes for those in- she touch? Has she touched Warsaw? Well, it is
sensitive to the bitterness of surrogates. Qualities Warsaw now, though presented as Warsaw then.
of what is sometimes termed the “aesthetic sur- Has she touched Szczecin (though clearly not see-
face” are generally less affected by deception. And ing it)? Compare touching tiny fossils of ancient
since, as manifest properties, they are always aes- creatures caught in stone. If one’s attention is di-
thetically pertinent, it may seem as if they com- rected to a building, the geological features of the
mandeer the whole territory. However, deciding stone are not in the aesthetic frame, though they
the scope of relevance is an aesthetic version of might be in another. But the agedness of the his-
the so-called frame problem: What properties of torical artifact—an aspect of this stone wall that
an object are salient for the arousal of aesthet- is the best candidate for being the closest contin-
ically appreciative affect, such that they are lo- uer in the preservation of old Warsaw’s identity
cated within the aesthetic frame? The question is through time—is in the aesthetic frame.19 Hence
prematurely foreclosed if one first stipulates what the conundrum, for it is the right property in the
are to count as aesthetic properties and then elim- wrong frame, and is therefore a prompter of aes-
inates the rest. The frame expands and contracts, thetic deception. (This is the case in spite of the
and genuineness is among the features that may fact that guidebooks are quite clear that the city
be in or out of the frame depending on other was rebuilt.)
factors. Included in those variable factors is the This example discloses some variance in the
role of different sense modalities in apprehend- direct acquaintance that is the traditional hall-
ing an object. Here is another example—a partic- mark of aesthetic encounters and perhaps illu-
ularly complicated one that engages the sense of minates why its necessity may be questioned.
touch. Acquaintance entails different degrees of proxim-
ity depending on its object. With an artifact whose
age and perdurance are in the aesthetic frame,
ii. in touch with the past palpable presence is optimal. Because touch is
not permitted in museums and galleries to pro-
When the Nazi occupiers of Warsaw fled the ad- tect the objects on display, the subtle operation
vancing Russian army in 1944, they mined what of this sense is probably more obvious elsewhere,
remained of the city, reducing it to acres of rubble. such as historic cities or even natural settings. As
After the war the city was rebuilt to look as it had one hiker tramping the route of Lewis and Clark
before, and the famous Old Town, an urban cen- remarked, “Walking in Meriwether Lewis’ foot-
ter since the middle ages, now attracts thousands steps makes my feet tingle.”20 This comment does
of visitors a year. They walk within a section of not express appreciation of a pedal sensation but
Warsaw that was painstakingly reconstructed with rather is a way of drawing attention to the fact
the aid of drawings, photographs, and memories to that, quite apart from any of its manifest sen-
the way it appeared around the seventeenth cen- sory qualities, touch furnishes a sense of being in
tury. There is an important sense in which one does actual, literal contact with something. The urge
indeed see the old city while traversing narrow, to touch is common when encountering objects
twisting streets evocative of urban growth from singled out for their age and historical unique-
long ago. For those who like their aesthetic en- ness.21 As one writer to the Buffalo News declared
counters to include visits to the past, it is a com- when it appeared that the Erie Canal would re-
pelling experience. main buried: “The trip back would be so much
However, the tourist leaning against a wall of easier for me if I could reach out and touch the
the old city, sharing a contact with generations walls of the Commercial Slip.”22 Being in the pal-
past as her palms press against stone where many pable presence of the right object is presumed
hands have lain, might in fact be leaning against by aesthetic engagements such as these. The en-
what was once part of the city of Szczecin far to counter can lose both its descriptive properties and
the west, for fragments of that ancient town (for- its value altogether upon discovery that one has
merly German Stettin) were utilized in rebuild- been mistaken or deceived about the object, just as
ing the oldest sections of Warsaw.18 There is a Alcmene’s discovery of the pseudo-Amphytrion
strong sense in which she visits old Warsaw, and no affected her assessment of the quality and value
sense in which she visits Szczecin. Yet what does of that experience.
122 The Journal of Aesthetics and Art Criticism

iii. age value age value be counted as an aesthetic virtue? Is


it not better considered as a separate feature for
Age is among the salient aesthetic features of arti- admiration—or perhaps only curiosity—with no
facts such as old Warsaw and the Erie Canal, and it particular aesthetic salience? Some of the oldest
is illuminated by a distinction drawn by art histo- living things on earth, such as 900-year-old Joshua
rian Alois Riegl. Riegl wrote (at the turn of the last trees (which have been called “the most repulsive
century) about monuments and artifacts from the tree in the vegetable kingdom”), capture the imag-
past that accrue two distinct sorts of value: histori- ination just because they have been around for so
cal value and age value. Every work of art is also a long.26 Why saddle a simple, gawking interest with
historical monument because it represents a spe- aesthetic qualifications? While age may not always
cific stage in the development of culture, and, as occupy the aesthetic frame, there are surely times
Riegl states, “in the strictest sense, no real equiv- when it does—when one touches with awe some-
alent can ever be substituted for it.”23 While both thing that has endured over time or stands before
bring temporal location to mind, age value is to be remnants of the past. This is a direct and imme-
found in objects that embody the passage of time diate acquaintance with strong affective valence
and that show the marks of their antiquity, whereas just as standard accounts of aesthetic encounters
historical value attaches to objects insofar as they require; and it delivers a particular, singular, often
represent a stage of cultural creativity.24 Historical unique grasp of the object of attention. I do not
value is the more familiar concept, and while no want to turn aesthetic experience into a seance,
one disputes that many artifacts and artworks have but I do claim that this kind of experience is clearly
substantial historical value, many theorists would and properly described as “aesthetic.” Discovery
separate (extrinsic) historical from (intrinsic) aes- of error in age reduces aesthetic impact or even
thetic value. This is not a simple distinction to draw, erases the experience altogether. Moreover, age
for artworks and other artifacts have historically is often the central determinate property of the
situated properties—such as being a manuscript intentional object.
illumination—that are also aesthetically pertinent The former point is familiar from related con-
properties. But it is not implausible to argue that texts. As has been argued widely with regard to
their historical value is still distinct from the aes- forgeries, even the most adept copy cannot be
thetic value contributed by those properties. To valued for the artistic achievement that it rep-
the degree that historical value is connected to sci- resents.27 Ascription of aesthetic properties, such
ence and research and the accumulation of knowl- as “innovative,” “prescient,” or “boldly satirical,”
edge of the past, and to the degree that it calls such presumes that the object so described is the gen-
investigative sensibilities into play, it may conceiv- uine one situated at the right historical place in
ably reside outside the aesthetic frame. the right sequence of cultural and social events.
In contrast, age value is always inseparable from But genuineness is more than just a prerequisite
the sensible and affective impact that an object has for a set of aesthetic and artistic features; it is it-
on the viewer. As Riegl asserts, “age value mani- self a direct and appropriate object of aesthetic
fests itself immediately, through visual perception attention.
and appeals directly to our emotions.”25 I would Imagine a visit to an eclectic museum of histor-
supplement his observation about visual percep- ical art and artifacts. In the Far East wing, you are
tion with touch, for the point is made even more captured by a beautifully carved piece of jade, its
profoundly by appeal to this proximal sense, which grace and delicacy testimony to ancient techniques
conveys the palpable impression of being in con- that transformed solid materials into airy webs. On
tact with the past. Age value attaches to cultural closer examination of the caption on the display,
artifacts such as buildings, bonzai, and flint axes you discover the words ‘polymer replica.’ What
and to natural objects such as sequoias and amber. happens? The figure is just as pretty as ever; its aes-
Unlike sensory properties, being aged is not both thetic surface remains the same. But first of all, the
a merely “characteristic property” and a “prop- appreciation of the artistry is now utterly deriva-
erty of” an object; it is always the latter. As such, tive because it incorrectly presumed authentic-
it requires genuineness. ity. Secondly, your trip to the past is aborted. At
At this point I had better anticipate an objec- best, you appreciate that there is a genuine item
tion: Why should age be an aesthetic property and matching this one safely secured somewhere; but
Korsmeyer Aesthetic Deception: On Encounters with the Past 123

disappointingly, it is not here. This is frequently the the continuum progresses, more and more prop-
response to displays of the Karpeles Manuscript erties of the object become properties character-
Museums, for example, which feature only ob- istic of what the object used to be. Historical value
jects held in their collections, but place on exhibit is largely preserved in at least the first stages.
copies distributed among the originals at their nine Age value rapidly diminishes in this sequence—
widely dispersed sites. All the objects look gen- repair, restore, replicate, reproduce—although it
uine, but visitors pore over the identification list need not immediately disappear, for implicit in
to separate the old ones from the merely appar- the string is reference back to yet another “r”—
ently old. This fact is more dramatic with objects the real thing. Replication presumes a degree of
with few to no features of interest on the aesthetic fungibility, though honorific reference back to the
surface, for without the genuine article before one, real thing implicitly recognizes the ultimately non-
there is nothing else worthy of aesthetic attention. fungible genuine object.
Age value by its very nature requires genuine- To have age value an object has to be old.
ness. However, objects valued for their age are Appearing old is not sufficient. But how old is
also those that are most likely to have had their old enough? How restored is too restored? How
original condition altered by use, deterioration, ac- much of the original construction of an artifact
cident, or malice. This reveals that the cluster of must be retained in order for age value to re-
values under discussion do not comprise a harmo- main? There are no principles to appeal to for
nious package. Historical value and age value may answers, and these are probably not situations
come into conflict, for age value does not resist the where consistency ought to be expected. Nonethe-
deterioration of objects that make time’s passage less, it is important to notice that as one pro-
manifest; in contrast, interest in historical value is ceeds along increasingly distal references, the
more preservationist in sensibility. With careful at- appreciable qualities recede to the aesthetic sur-
tention to historical concerns, which often require face, leaving those relevant to age value behind un-
restoration, the manifest properties that signal age til experience becomes directed to an intentional
value are compromised. Age value may equally be object so altered from what we presume it to be
at odds with the values of the aesthetic surface, and that—inevitably—it becomes an occasion for aes-
for similar reasons. A good cleaning and repair re- thetic deception.
stores an object’s appearance, but the presence of
new paint or patches reduces the affective reso-
nance of its age value. On the other hand, if an iv. pitfalls
ancient artifact has become so degraded that it is
hardly recognizable, it has passed the point where It will not have escaped notice that my interest
it can be appreciated even for its age value.28 Age in these matters invokes some old-fashioned—
value accrues and declines, eventually disappear- perhaps even premodern—ideals, including pres-
ing altogether. One cannot resist this sequence ence and aura, which are sometimes considered
without interfering with age value and, ironically, not only outmoded but also unsuited to a post-
hastening its end. modern age.31 (Some of my comments also bear
We can sketch a schematic continuum mark- on the status of religious relics and talismans, an
ing several stages of change: an object from the unsettling parallel I shall not pursue.32 ) If authen-
past no longer in its original condition may be re- ticity and age value appear retrograde concerns,
paired, employing fragments of the original glued this foregrounds the fact that at this historical mo-
or soldered back together. While the damage af- ment, traditions, and the anchors of tradition that
fects its economic value, historical value might be enduring objects represent, are weakening. From
preserved, and age value is not compromised. Or the tastes of foods to the digitized world, we in-
it might be restored, where missing bits are re- creasingly trade with simulacra.33 What would per-
placed.29 It might be rebuilt, using both old and haps not have received much notice in the recent
new materials. Or it might be replicated in part past, such as continuing presence through time,
or entirely. Finally, it might be reproduced, even looms large now because of the contrast it poses
multiple times, either to preserve and record the with what is to be anticipated. Hence a certain nos-
surface aesthetic qualities of the original or for talgia is indeed a component of postmodernism, as
market purposes if copies are to be sold.30 As Jean-François Lyotard observes.34 But there are
124 The Journal of Aesthetics and Art Criticism

greater concerns to ponder than fashions of sen- not static but alter with migration, changes in cli-
sibility. If genuineness itself is a nostalgic ideal or mate, accident, and contact with others. Once I
even illusion, then clinging to that value would was invited to dinner with a Korean friend with the
ironically contribute to aesthetic deception. promise that I would experience the genuine cui-
I now consider two worries. Perhaps includ- sine of her home country. When I inquired about
ing presumptive qualities such as genuineness its preparation, I was told that one of the sauces
in the phenomenology of aesthetic encounters was flavored with Coca-Cola, which she had found
perniciously extends the boundaries of aesthetic an excellent substitute for an ingredient hard to
salience into regions that are prone to fancy, prej- find in the United States. Examples of such adap-
udice, and other clearly illegitimate influences. tations permeate virtually all culinary traditions,
Take, for example, the seventeenth-century Dutch which are richly flexible and opportunistic.
paintings that were at one time attributed to Franz What is more, today our flavor experiences
Hals but were later determined to be by his some- are deeply affected by the widespread and of-
time student Judith Leyster. It was to be ex- ten surreptitious use of artificial flavors or flavor
pected that their market value would change with enhancers, creating a hyperreality of tastes in com-
the new attribution, because Hals’s paintings are parison to which nature’s product appears pallid.36
in greater demand; but is it not suspicious that To what is taste compared? A taste from the past?
these paintings were then determined to mani- But whose past, and how far back can one reach?
fest a hitherto unnoticed feminine hand—to be One can compare tastes of the present with tastes
rendered with less-than-vigorous brushstrokes for remembered from childhood, as Proust famously
instance.35 And yet, the identity of the artist, in- recounted; but how do you compare your taste ex-
cluding his or her gender, is a candidate for the periences with those of your great-grandmother,
kind of presumptive property that ensures the whose table represented an older version of your
sound attribution of aesthetic properties to their present culinary tradition and who probably ate
objects. How can legitimate presumptions be dis- varieties of fruits that no longer exist?37 If one
tinguished from dubious ones? were truly bent on formulating exactly what an au-
Obviously, there is a large and contentious zone thentic taste experience is supposed to mean, these
where questionable judgments circulate. I have re- multiple complications would stagger the attempt
moved a standard ground for excluding them by to locate a coherent gauge.38
insisting on the aesthetic salience of what others With the odd exception of honey, the actual
label an extrinsic property. But if it is illegiti- physical substances that we eat quickly degrade
mate to redescribe and reassess the Leyster paint- and rot, and so there is no question here of the
ings based only on the discovery of her signature, endurance of things beyond the span of their orig-
then the reason is not that aesthetically irrele- inal use. The gastronomic equivalent of age value
vant features have been considered where previ- would arise from reenacting foods of times long
ously they were not. In fact, perhaps reattribution gone—such as garum, the fermented fish sauce
might bring into focus properties that were for- widely used in classical antiquity, or the sweetened
merly harder to see. If the wider frame also per- and spiced meats that were eaten in Europe un-
mits prejudice to fog the judgment, this is an error der lingering influence from the Persian empire,
of another sort. As David Hume might have said, or the preparation of maize dishes in America
separation of supportable from insupportable aes- before the European conquest. Even if we could
thetic qualities needs to occur through appeal to secure lost ingredients and figure out how to con-
fairness and good sense rather than to category of coct some of those dishes, it is most unlikely that
property. eating them would conjure up ancient tastes, de-
The very toughest problem with genuineness is pendent as these are on habit and culinary custom.
that perhaps the standard it promises is both con- The foods of the past are hard enough to recreate;
fused and impossible to meet. Nowhere are both the tastes of the past can barely be imagined. Who
worries clearer than in the realm of taste. Even now would savor the vintages of Greek antiquity,
if we focus on tastes of food and drink (rather knowing that Homer’s heroes not only sailed on
than characteristic of ), we are still dealing with but also drank his wine dark sea?
fleeting experiences that are notoriously difficult At the same time, genuineness or authenticity
to describe. What is more, culinary traditions are is a gustatory value that is now desperately sought,
Korsmeyer Aesthetic Deception: On Encounters with the Past 125

for the very reason that certain tastes appear claim to be genuine if that means actually being in
on the verge of extinction, receding from mem- their entirety what they once were long ago. They
ory as their objects become unavailable. Global refer to that time; they only partially embody it,
standards for food production and marketing are and sometimes that embodiment has become so
changing sanctioned modes of food preparation attenuated as to be nearly insignificant.
and thereby the taste of the products, and eventu- Because the problems of identity through time
ally shrinking the available range of taste experi- are complicated, puzzling, and even tragic, one
ences. Such losses are much on the minds of those might conclude that a value such as genuineness
worried about the narrowing of sense experience is both practically unrealistic and naive. More
with an altered economy. Something is being lost. gravely, perhaps it sets a notional standard that is
But what, exactly? Perhaps one concern (the most itself deceptive inasmuch as it presumes the pos-
nostalgic) is that alterations in the foods produced sibility of something that is, in effect, impossible.
foreclose the very possibility of recovering past It is folly to be a purist about these matters. Fortu-
tastes, no matter how this idea is understood. nately, genuineness admits of degrees, where parts
Tastes are particularly ephemeral, but parallel of an object or continuity of sequential objects can
problems extend to other objects of experience, support claims to genuineness that are sufficient
including those that appear most durable. Here I even if partial. What counts as “sufficient” must
have focused on aesthetic encounters where the be left to decisions in the individual case. But the
past is brought before us in objects whose value need for compromise and even inconsistency does
includes a noteworthy age value. But the fact is, not obviate the importance of genuineness, with-
we almost never have objects from the past that out which we lose the fundamental feature that
are both whole and in their original condition, so warrants the magnetism of objects that command
genuineness cannot rely on retention of a stable set aesthetic respect and honor.
of features. What even counts as “genuine” with
an object that was altered in its own time, such as CAROLYN KORSMEYER
the Erie Canal, which was widened and repaired Department of Philosophy
many times before portions of it were buried? And University at Buffalo, SUNY
once unburied and restored, how significant are Buffalo, New York 14260
new patches of concrete or rearrangement of the
blocks of limestone on its sides? These will not internet: ckors@buffalo.edu
make much of a visible difference, so the visitor
probably will not notice; but this is no answer, for 1. This article is a revised version of my 2006 Presiden-
I have just argued that genuineness is a presump- tial Address for the American Society for Aesthetics. For
tive quality even when it is not manifest. It seems their comments and suggestions on earlier drafts, I thank
as if aesthetic deception of some degree is virtu- Carrie Bramen, Ann Colley, Regina Grol, and Joe Zeccardi.
2. I take it that the aesthetic–nonaesthetic distinction,
ally inescapable—unless one haunts undisturbed
property realism, and so forth can be addressed indepen-
ruins. dently of the considerations advanced here. My arguments
There are plenty more examples with far more on behalf of genuineness obtain regardless of one’s answers
profound aesthetic and artistic merit: The Ishtar to those questions.
Gate, fragments from Babylon, now rebuilt in 3. Peter Kivy criticizes the equation of “authentic” with
“good” in Authenticities: Philosophical Reflections on Musi-
Berlin. Replicas of marble statues in cities such cal Performance (Cornell University Press, 1995), p. 1.
as Rome and Krakow, replacing those eaten away 4. David Summers, The Judgment of Sense: Renaissance
by acid rain. Triptych altarpieces separated and Naturalism and the Rise of Aesthetics (Cambridge Univer-
acquired by different collections. Broken statuary sity Press, 1987) presents the complicated history of this
idea.
from South Asian temples that has migrated all
5. Noël Carroll dismisses direct acquaintance with the
over the world. Or the bizarre case of London example of conceptual art in “Aesthetic Experience: A
Bridge, the very paradigm of the metaphysically Question of Content,” Contemporary Debates in Aesthetics
contentious scattered object—part in London, and Philosophy of Art, ed. Matthew Kieran (Malden, MA:
part in Devon, and part in Arizona, where it forms Blackwell, 2005), pp. 69–97. Even if appreciation of con-
ceptualism does not require direct experience, this kind of
the nucleus of a popular tourist attraction. All of case would not pertain to other aesthetic encounters. Jerrold
these are objects with claims on age value, and all Levinson refers to direct acquaintance as a “shibboleth,” but
invite palpable contact with their pasts. None can again this does not indicate that it never pertains: “Aesthetic
126 The Journal of Aesthetics and Art Criticism

Properties II,” Aristotelian Society Supplementary Volume 21. Carolyn Korsmeyer, “Staying in Touch,” in Ethical
79 (July 2005): 211–227. Criticism and the Arts, ed. Garry Hagberg (Malden, MA:
6. See Gregory Currie, An Ontology of Art (London: Blackwell, forthcoming).
Macmillan, 1989), p. 17 and chap. 2; David Davies, Art as 22. Jack Kempf, “Reburying the Canal Doesn’t Make
Performance (Malden, MA: Blackwell, 2004), chap. 2. Both Sense,” “Viewpoints,” Buffalo News, August 30, 1999, p. 3B.
Currie and Davies argue against aesthetic empiricism. 23. Alois Riegl, “The Modern Cult of Monuments: Its
7. Although the label is an odd one for him, Kant ap- Character and Its Origin,” trans. Kurt W. Forster and Diane
proaches this position when he remarks that the pure judg- Ghirardo, Oppositions (1982 [1903]): 22.
ment of taste is devoid of interest in the existence of its 24. Some contend that an encounter with an object from
objects (Critique of Judgment §2.) the past ideally yields an experience as though time is erased
8. This position has been defended recently by Alan and one experiences the object as a contemporary would.
Goldman, “The Experiential Account of Aesthetic Value,” Among the several confusions implicit in this notion is failure
The Journal of Aesthetics and Art Criticism 64 (2006): 333– to recognize that the object is of its time; we are not. Neither
342. historical nor age value implies this collapse of temporal
9. Authenticity in a Digital Environment (Washing- consciousness.
ton, DC: Council on Library and Information Resources, 25. Riegl, “The Modern Cult of Monuments,” p. 33.
2000). 26. John Fremont quoted on the website on the
10. Use of ‘subjective’ and ‘objective’ here is distinctly Mojave National Preserve: www.nps.gov/archive/moja
pretheoretic, but philosophers such as Kant divided the /mojaanjt.htm (September 17, 2006).
senses according to these categories. See Anthropology from 27. Denis Dutton, “Artistic Crimes: The Problem of
a Pragmatic Point of View, trans. Victor Lyle Dowdell (Car- Forgery in the Arts,” The British Journal of Aesthetics 19
bondale: Southern Illinois University Press, 1978), p. 41. (1979): 304–314; David Davies, Art as Performance (Malden,
11. I seem to be among a shrinking number of people MA: Blackwell, 2004), chaps. 1 and 8; Mark Sagoff, “The
who take this approach, for many insist that the concept of Aesthetic Status of Forgeries,” in The Forger’s Art, ed. De-
the aesthetic chiefly pertains to the experience of art. See nis Dutton (University of California Press, 1983), pp. 131–
Carroll and Goldman, cited above. 152. See also Matthew Kieran on “essentiality of origin” in
12. Goldman draws a distinction between perceptual Revealing Art (London: Routledge, 2005), p. 14.
and experiential properties, such that perceptual properties 28. As Riegl puts it, the cult of age value “contributes
may be indiscernible, but the experience of an object will to its own demise” (“The Modern Cult of Monuments,” p.
differ depending on the correct identification of its object. I 33).
believe that the case of flavor indicates that perceptual prop- 29. Randall Dipert observes that a restored artifact is
erties also may vary; this may be because taste sensations are one “in which an artifactual feature deteriorated but whose
inherently vaguer than are visual or auditory perceptions original nature was correctly inferred by a second agent in
and hence more vulnerable to change with altering iden- a way causally connected to the original intention/feature
tity of causes. See “The Experiential Account of Aesthetic and was as a consequence of this influence by the second
Value,” p. 336. agent intentionally reimpressed on the deteriorated object.”
13. Kendall Walton, “Categories of Art,” Philosophical Randall Dipert, Artifacts, Art Works, and Agency (Temple
Review 79 (1970): 334–367. University Press, 1993), p. 122.
14. Amy B. Trubek, “Place Matters,” The Taste Culture 30. “A reproduced artifact is an object created by agents
Reader: Experiencing Food and Drink, ed. Carolyn Kors- intending to follow, and succeeding in following, the inten-
meyer (Oxford: Berg, 2005), pp. 260–271. See also several tions of an artist or intentionally copying the physical aspects
essays in Questions of Taste: The Philosophy of Wine, ed. of the artifactual features of the original artifact” (Dipert,
Barry C. Smith (Oxford: Signal Books, 2007). Artifacts, Art Works, and Agency, p. 123). In the case of repro-
15. Dorothy L. Sayers, Clouds of Witness (New York: duction for market, presumably those intentions will have
Avon, 1969 [1927]), p. 137. been supplemented with economic motives.
16. Marcia Eaton compares aesthetic responses to emo- 31. See Walter Benjamin’s famous discussion of aura
tions in Merit: Ethical and Aesthetic (Oxford University in “Art in the Age of Mechanical Reproduction,” from his
Press, 2001), chap. 1. book Illuminations, trans. Harry Zohn (New York: Shocken
17. Ronald de Sousa, The Rationality of Emotions (MIT Books, 1969).
Press, 1987), chap. 5. 32. Here, where one might expect the genuine ar-
18. This anecdote vastly simplifies the complex set of ticle always to prevail, there are traditions of replica-
decisions over rebuilding the old city, which utilized materi- tion that could serve as counterexamples to my argu-
als from various sites in Poland. See David Crowley, “Peo- ment. The so-called Black Madonna of Czestochowa has
ple’s Warsaw/Popular Warsaw,” Journal of Design History been copied numerous times in the past centuries and
10 (1997): 203–223. The example of Szczecin is variously re- sent into battle to ensure divine protection. An object
ported and somewhat controversial, and I thank Elizabeth that is believed to be the Ark of the Covenant rests in
Peña, Jean Dickson, and Slawomir Jozefowicz for research an ancient rock church in Aksum in the mountains of
and advice on this question. Ethiopia, and replicas are carried in religious processions.
19. A closest continuer theory of identity through time These sorts of cases confound the sequence from “real” to
is defended by Robert Nozick, Philosophical Explanations “reproduction.”
(Harvard University Press, 1981), chap. 1. 33. See Jos de Mul on aesthetics and database ontology
20. Stephen Ambrose (quoting his wife), “Join Us on in “Database Aesthetics/Globalizing Worlds,” International
the Trail,” National Geographic Traveler 19 (2002): 63. Association for Aesthetics Newsletter 30 (2006): 1–3.
Korsmeyer Aesthetic Deception: On Encounters with the Past 127

34. Jean-François Lyotard, The Postmodern Condi- 38. One might be tempted to parse authenticity of tastes
tion: A Report on Knowledge, trans. Geoff Bennington in parallel with discussions regarding the “authentic” perfor-
and Brian Massumi (University of Minnesota Press, 1984), mance of music. Problems of comparing contemporary taste
passim. experiences with those of the past have some similarity with
35. Whitney Chadwick, Women, Art, and Society (Lon- questions of reproducing in our own day musical sounds—
don: Thames and Hudson, 1990), pp. 21–23; Frima Fox understood as the aural experiences—as they would have
Hofrichter, “The Eclipse of a Leading Star,” in Judith been heard in the past. (For skeptical arguments about this
Leyster: A Dutch Master and Her Work (Yale University possibility, see Peter Kivy on “sonic authenticity” in Authen-
Press, 1993), pp. 115–121. ticities, chap. 3. See also Dipert, Artifacts, Art Works, and
36. On authenticity of flavor, see Constance Classen, Agency, chap. 11.) I suspect that this parallel is less illumi-
David Howes, and Anthony Synnott, “Artificial Flavours,” nating than at first it might appear. Although both recipes
and Lisa Heldke, “But Is It Authentic? Culinary Travel and and scores are written instructions for actions, for example,
the Search for the ‘Genuine Article,’” both in The Taste Cul- they are quite dissimilar in terms of the detail and scope of
ture Reader, ed. Carolyn Korsmeyer (Oxford: Berg, 2005), the attention they command and, above all, in their relative
pp. 337–342; pp. 385–394. complexity. Moreover, while the intentions of the individual
37. Nadia Seremetakis, “The Breast of Aphrodite,” composer might be consulted to decide performance choice,
in The Senses Still, ed. Nadia Seremetakis. (West- with the exception of moments within traditions of haute
view Press, 1994), discusses the taste of a peach from cuisine, cooking instructions issue from generations of tra-
her childhood that is now to be found nowhere in dition with necessarily variant practices. In any event, my
Greece. focus on tangibility here directs me to other concerns.

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