RESEARCH METHODOLOGY

TOPIC: To study the shift of Indian garment industry from

woven to knitted garments.

SUBMITTED TO: SUBMITTED BY:

Dr. MANOJ TIWARI CHETAN PRAKASH
(NIFT JODHPUR) (BFT- VI)
 BACKGROUND
The yarns and threads that make up textiles define them. Textiles have been used for
over 100,000 years, dating back to the Stone Age. Cotton, silk, and linen were used for
the first time around 5000 B.C. The two main types of textile manufacturing processes
emerged... woven and knitted. What is the distinction between woven and knit fabrics?
One of the first questions to ask yourself when selecting textiles is whether you require a
woven or knitted fabric. Understanding the differences between the two types is the best
way to answer this question. (James, 2018)
Knit fabric has a single looped yarn structure, whereas woven fabric has a crossed yarn
structure. Close inspection of knit fabric reveals a braided, sweater-like appearance. The
over-under pattern of warp and weft yarns is visible in woven fabric. (Knowledge, 2021)
Woven Fabrics are more durable and less likely to lose their color. This is because they
come in less contact with cleaning agents such as bleach and detergent.
Knitted fabrics are preferred in warmth, comfort, and wrinkle resistant applications
like clothing. Knitted fabrics have a softer feel but can be less durable in the long run.
(James, 2018)
 INTRODUCTION
The Indian knitwear industry dates back over a century. Calcutta, India's cultural capital
and the commercial capital of East India, is credited with revitalizing the industry. The
initiative began with a small hosiery unit that grew exponentially over time. Indian
knitwear is currently contributing significantly to the country's economy and
employment.

The important knitwear centres in India are Ludhiana in Punjab, Tirupur in Tamil
Nadu, Bangalore, Delhi, and Mumbai. Rajasthan produces nearly 100 different types of
wool, with popular varieties including joria, magna, chokla, and jaisalmer. These fibres
are mixed with others that are relevant. Domestic industry is embracing fashionable
knitted apparels thanks to the introduction of ideas from international designers.

Major importers from India include the United States, Canada, well-known European
fashion houses, Australia, Japan, and the Middle East. West European markets, Hong
Kong, Bangkok, and Taiwan are all fierce competitors. Despite the competition, India's
knitted apparel has carved a niche in the global market thanks to its low prices, high
quality, and unique designs.

The market for knitwear exports in India is improving. It's quickly becoming one of the
fastest-growing export sectors.

The government has initiated new textile policies to ensure reasonable prices, fabric
quality, and the knitwear sector's long-term employment and economic growth. With
the Indian knitwear industry well-versed in global trends, it won't be long before the
country establishes itself in the international market. (Fibre2Fashion, 2010)

Consumer demand for feathery raw materials like polypropylene, linen, silk, faux fur,
and synthetic fibres is driving demand for lightweight, high-performance knitwear.
Knitted fabrics have largely been replaced by woven fabrics. Over the last few years, the
demand for loop stitch jackets, cardigans, large shawls, and scarves has steadily
increased in the apparel industry. (Seiki, 2019)
 REVIEW OF LITERATURE
Knitting is the process of creating a fabric or garment by interlocking loops with a
continuous yarn or set of yarns. Knit fabrics are more stretch resistant than woven
fabrics. Weft or filling knits, such as plain, rib, purl, pattern, and double knits, and warp
knits, such as tricot, raschel, and milanese, are the two basic types of knits. A wale in
knitting is a lengthwise column of loops that corresponds to the warp of woven fabric,
while a course is a crosswise row of loops that corresponds to the filling. (Britannica,
2021)

Weft-knit fabric dominated the market in 2018, with a market share of over 60.0
percent. Manufacturers prefer it because of its low cost, increased elasticity, and
simplified manufacturing process. Knitting stitches include plain or jersey knitting, rib,
purl, interlock, double knit, and circular knitting. Underwear, pajamas, sweaters,
scarves, hats, and gloves are all made with weft knitting. Circular knitting machines
have become increasingly important in the seamless hosiery and underwear
manufacturing industry in recent years. From 2019 to 2025, warp-knit products are
expected to grow at the fastest rate of 6.4 percent. Several industries use warp knitting,
including apparel, innerwear, shoes, home, automotive, and industrial. The automotive,
construction, and manufacturing industries are expected to drive segment expansion.
Tricot knits, raschel knits, crochet knits, and Milanese knits are all examples of warp
knitting. (Seiki, 2019)

When we talk about knit fabrics, an important question to ask is:

Why does the factory merchandiser run to buyers for last minute approvals
after the bulk fabric is in house?

The answer is simple:

Because the fabric received will have

some problem or the other.

Common Issues in Knit Fabric Quality

Dyeing patches, Softener marks, Barriness, Crease marks, Skewing, Bowing,

Contaminations, Needle/Sinker lines, thick and thin places in yarn, loose fabric
structure, Oil Stains, and so on are some of the other fabric quality issues.
These are physically assessed in the fabric warehouse. If any of the above quality issues
are discovered, the fabrics are either reprocessed or rejected. These problems are
frequently overlooked by buyers. (Kumar, 2020)

Knitting & Fast Fashion

Clothing shopping used to be a once-a-year occurrence, occurring when the seasons

changed or we outgrew our current wardrobe. But something changed about 20 years
ago. Clothing became more affordable, trend cycles accelerated, and shopping became a
pastime. (Rauturier, 2021)

It starts with design, which is done with environmental and sustainability concerns in
mind, and raw materials are sourced accordingly. The second step is the manufacturing
process, which emphasises quality labour, fair wages, and a high quality of life, as well as
quality awareness and recycling and reuse. Slow fashion is a philosophy that asks
consumers questions about how they buy, wear, and care for their clothes. (Aishwariya,
2019)

Knitwear is, by definition, eco-friendly and long-lasting—we don't dare to make

something we won't be able to wear next year, or even in the next five years, when we
pick our next knitting project. Knitters scrutinise their next project with a keen eye,
knowing that it is an investment of time, money, and materials. (tahkistacycharles,
2015)

Factors that favour the knitting industry include:

• The capital investment required to start a new knitting unit is relatively low than
for other fabric production plants.
• Knitted garments take less time to finish than woven garments.
• Knitting is more flexible than weaving in that styles and designs can be changed
more quickly.
• Knitted apparels are an ideal buy for today's generation, which is more concerned
with wrinkle-free, easy-to-care-for fabrics. (Looking into the Future of Global
Knitting Industry, 2011)

Knitting Industry; India

In India, the knitting industry is one of the most prosperous. Knitting factories in India
offer a wide range of knitted fabrics in a variety of styles and textures, including
pointelle, pique, jersey, three thread fleece, French terry, rice knit, rib, interlock, flat
back rick, and much more. They can also provide high-quality fabric in large quantities.
They provide jacquard patterns. In India, there are numerous reliable knitted fabric
manufacturers, exporters, and suppliers. They specialize in the production of knitted
fabrics for use in home furnishings. They have the latest machinery to produce high-
quality and superior knitted fabrics. In their in-house high-quality lab, they test every
batch of knitted fabrics.

Garment manufacturers in India always make sure that they deliver on their promises to
their customers in order to maintain good business. If these manufacturers intend to
enter the international market, they must first carefully and effectively define ideal
quality standards and adhere to them. Quality is important, and there are several
aspects of quality on which Indian garments manufacturers should operate or work,
including overall production quality, garment design quality, final inspections quality,
advertising or marketing quality, and so on.

India's garment manufacturing industry is a thriving industry. Because of the increase

in garment product sales, this industry has brought in a lot of money to the country.
Apart from these, another positive aspect that contributes to every garment
manufacturer's success in India is their adherence to best manufacturing practices.
India's garment manufacturing industry is a thriving industry. Because of the increase
in garment product sales, this industry has brought in a lot of money to the country.
Apart from these, another positive aspect that contributes to every garment
manufacturer's success in India is their adherence to best manufacturing practices.
Manufacturers are always eager to learn and broaden their horizons; they communicate
openly with clients; they fully comprehend the market and the context in which they
operate; and, most importantly, they have the necessary capacity and skills. (GROUP,
2017)

Despite its strength in wovens, India's knitwear industry is growing at a double-digit

rate. The Indian apparel industry is getting ready for a bigger role. In the last year, the
Indian knitwear industry has seen significant growth.

Knitwear trade performed better than wovens globally, and demand for knitted apparel
has increased. According to a study by consulting firm Wisedge, knitwear accounts for
50% of India's domestic apparel market and 45 percent of the country's apparel exports.
Knitwear grew at a 7% CAGR globally from 2005 to 2011 and is expected to grow at a
much faster rate in the coming years. Knitwear has grown at a rate of 9-10 percent in
India as well. (fashionunited, 2013)

Despite the fact that both Tirupur and Ludhiana are knitting centres, their business
preferences are vastly different. While Tirupur focuses on exports, Ludhiana has
successfully tapped into the growing domestic market in India. The difference can also
be found in the products that are produced. While Tirupur specialises in T-shirts, high-
fashion apparel, and, more importantly, the right blend of knits and woven fabrics for
children's and ladies' wear, Ludhiana specialises in winter wear, producing nearly all of
India's woollen and acrylic knitwear. This is not to say that Ludhiana has fallen behind
in the production of T-shirts, sweatshirts, track suits, and other apparel. (AR, 2013)

PROBLEM STATEMENT
Despite the positive trend, the industry is facing its own set of challenges, the most
pressing of which is rising cotton and yarn prices. Another challenge is the fierce
competition from global brands.

Another issue is the industry's fragmentation.

The consistently increasing business of knitwear, both circular and flat, in Bangladesh
has been a major source of concern for the Indian knitwear industry, but with
Bangladesh preferring to do basic knitwear products, India has been successful in
positioning itself as the fashion destination for small quantities. Even a T-shirt made in
the United States has its own unique design, fabric, construction, and fit.
(fashionunited, 2013)
 RESEARCH OBJECTIVES

▪ To study the shift of Indian garment industry from woven to knitted garments.
▪ To analyse the opportunities in the field of knitting in the near future in India.
▪ To find out the flaws in the Indian knitting manufacturing and its possible
solutions.
▪ To understand the concept of fast fashion and knitted garments together.

TABULATED SUMMARY
S.N Title Citation Author Remarks
o
1 Background (James, 2018) James, G. Brief about yarns and textiles.

2 Background (Knowledge, 2021) Knowledge, A. Structure of knit fabric.

S.

3 Background (James, 2018) James, G. Difference between woven and

knit fabric.
4 Introduction (Fibre2Fashion, 2010) Fibre2Fashion Shows the current situation of
Indian Knitting industry.
5 Introduction, (Seiki, 2019) Seiki, S. Tells how knitwear is
dominating woven garments.
6 ROL (Seiki, 2019) Seiki, S. Market insights of knitwear.

7 ROL (Britannica, 2021) Britannica, T. Explains knitting.

E.

8 Common Issues (Kumar, 2020) Kumar, S. Defects and point of error in

in Knit Fabric manufacturing knitted
Quality garments.
9 Knitting & The (Rauturier, 2021) Rauturier, S How fast fashion is changing
Benefits of Slow lives.
Fashion
10 Knitting & The (Aishwariya, 2019) Aishwariya, S. How slow fashion is
Benefits of Slow beneficial.
Fashion
11 Knitting & The (tahkistacycharles, tahkistacychar How knitwear is an
Benefits of Slow 2015) les. alternative.
Fashion
12 Knitting (GROUP, 2017) GROUP, O Working of Indian knitting
Industry; India industry.
13 Knitting (fashionunited, fashionunited Tells the evolving knitwear
Industry; India, 2013) industry.
14 Problem (fashionunited, fashionunited Shows us the problem in
statement 2013) Indian Knitwear industry.
15 Knitting (AR, 2013) AR, A. Talks about Indian knitwear
Industry; India centres.
16 Knitting & The (Looking into the NA Factors that favour the
Benefits of Slow Future of Global knitting industry.
Fashion Knitting Industry,
2011)

Works Cited

Aishwariya, S. (2019, November). Fast vs Slow Fashion. Retrieved from Fibre2Fashion.com:

https://www.fibre2fashion.com/industry-article/8460/fast-vs-slow-fashion

AR, A. (2013, May 01). India’s growing knitting industry focusing on new technologies to cater to the
emerging domestic market. Retrieved from Apparel Resources:
https://in.apparelresources.com/business-news/sourcing/indias-growing-knitting-industry-focusing-on-
new-technologies-to-cater-to-the-emerging-domestic-market/

Britannica, T. E. (2021, March 26). knitting. Retrieved from Encyclopedia Britannica:

https://www.britannica.com/technology/knitting

fashionunited. (2013, May 30). Knitwear Industry: A promising opportunity in India. Retrieved from
fashionunited.in: https://fashionunited.in/v1/fashion/knitwear-industry-a-promising-opportunity-in-
india/201305309743

Fibre2Fashion. (2010, Oct). The Juicy side of Indian Knitwear Sector. Retrieved from
www.fibre2fashion.com: https://www.fibre2fashion.com/industry-article/5207/the-juicy-side-of-indian-
knitwear-sector

GROUP, O. (2017, March 29). Knitting Industry India. Retrieved from http://www.oswalgroup.com/:
http://www.oswalgroup.com/knitting-industry-india.php

James, G. (2018, 10 26). When to choose a Woven Fabric over a Knit Fabric. Retrieved from Revolution
Performance Fabrics: https://revolutionfabrics.com/blogs/gotcha-covered/when-to-choose-a-woven-
fabric-over-a-knit-fabric

Knowledge, A. S. (2021, 10 21). Knit vs Woven Fabric: What Is The Difference? Retrieved from Silver
Bobbin: https://silverbobbin.com/knit-vs-woven-fabric/

Kumar, S. (2020, June 5). Common Issues in Knit Fabric Quality. Retrieved from Inside Apparel:
https://insideapparel.net/blog/common-issues-in-knit-fabric-quality/

Looking into the Future of Global Knitting Industry. (2011, Jan). Retrieved from fibre2fashion:
https://www.fibre2fashion.com/industry-article/5398/looking-into-the-future-of-global-knitting-
industry

Rauturier, S. (2021, July 26). What Is Fast Fashion? Retrieved from good on you:
https://goodonyou.eco/what-is-fast-fashion/
Seiki, S. (2019, August 12). Knitted fabrics market to witness significant growth. Retrieved from Knitting
Industry: https://www.knittingindustry.com/knitted-fabrics-market-to-witness-significant-growth/

tahkistacycharles. (2015, September 22). Knitting & The Benefits of Slow Fashion. Retrieved from Tahki
Stacy Charles: https://tahkistacycharles.com/knitting-the-benefits-of-slow-fashion/