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Yarn Printing

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Ashok Athalye
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Dr. Ashok Athalye
Dr. Ashok Athalye is currently a
GM (Technical services) in Atul
Ltd. He is heading the technical
team in the area of textile dyes and
chemicals for both domestic and
international market. He has a vast
experience of around 20 years in
Technical services of dyestuffs and
chemicals like ICI (India), ltd.,
Croda Chemicals, Jaysynth
Dyechem Ltd., Serene Dyestuff
Ltd., Ciba Geigy Ltd. and Indokem
Ltd.
Dr. Athalye did his Ph.D. (Tech.)
Textile Chemistry, M.Sc. (Tech.)
and B.Sc. (Tech.) from ICT
(formerly UDCT ) Mumbai. He
also did Diploma (DIM), Advanced
Diploma (ADM) and specialization
in Marketing Management (DMM)
from I.G.N.O.U. New Delhi. He has
a vast knowledge in the field of
dyes and chemicals. A Fellow of
Journal of the TEXTILE Association
Society of Dyers and Colorists,
SDC, UK, Dr. Athalye has many
research and review publications
to his credit.
Email : ashok_athalye@atul.co.in
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TEXPERIENCE
Yarn Printing
Textile coloration is an age old art and performed in various ways using
variety of machines at various stages of processing. The usage of such
textile material is not only restricted to apparel wear but is also being
widely consumed in industrial applications. Yarn printing process produces
beautiful effects and fancy designs which enhances sales appeal of dress
material, children wear and home furnishings.
Generally, the term dyeing (which constitutes nearly 80 % by application
at fibre, yarn, fabric or garment stage), is used when the textile material
is colored uniformly in solid shades while the term printing (which is also
called as localised dyeing comprises about 20% usage) is applied in specific
designs or patterns at the fabric or garment stage.However, there is also
a niche but specialised segment of printing at yarn stage which imparts
different colors spaced across the length of yarn and thus it is also called
"space dyeing".
The yarn printing involves imparting multiple colorson yarn to create
abstract color patterns which may or may not repeat after fixed interval.
Such 'space dyed' yarns produce beautiful effects after weaving and knitting
and are used to produce fancy design when incorporated in apparel wear,
dress material, children wear and home furnishing. Also, use of such
printed yarn is becoming popular in carpet making industry which in its
subsequent tufted fabric form imparts an effect of random, unorganized
designs. Carpets are being widely used in corridors, lobbies, offices,
classrooms, hotel rooms and other public areas.
Space dyeing or yarn printing can be dyed in either coordinating or
contrasting shades. The coordinating colors are tones of neutral or assorted
shades of hues like blue, green, red which provide a subtle yet sophisticated
look. While the effect of contrasting shades in space dyed yarn include
mixing of purple, red, green and blue.Thus, space dyeing is a technique
used to create lovely fabrics which shade from one color to another.
Depending on the method used the fabrics can be softly muted or vibrant.
In India this technique is mastered by many textile processors in regions
like Bhiwandi and Ludhiana.
Yarns of different substrates like Cotton, Viscose, Polyester, Wool, Silk,
Acrylic, Nylon and their commonly used blends can be printed by using
various dye classes suitable for dyeing these substrates. Different methods
of space dyeing application are possible, which include coloration in hank
form, package form by manual dye injection by skilled operators or by
machine dye injection, spraying or brushing of dye and by continuous
process of spaced-dye application.
July - August 2016
TEXPERIENCE
The selection of dyes and chemicals depends on the
type of substrate, method of dye application and the
desired fastness properties. The yarn to be printed is
pretreated as per the standard recommended processes
depending on the machinery used and the method of
application. The ready for printing yarn is assessed for
the parameters like absorbency, whiteness index,
residual pH, etc as per the requirement of subsequent
coloration. After the dye application, further processing
of dye diffusion, fixation and washing off of unfixed
superficial color is done as per the standard
recommended process for the dyes in use. Finally, the
finishing is done for yarn lubrication, softening or
antistatic treatment depending of the nature of substrate
and the end use application.
Given below are various ways of space dyeing | yarn
printing
Hank or Skein printing : the ready to print yarn in
hank or skein form is mounted on a stand or laid on
a suitable surface and then different colors are applied
either by brush or by spraying at fixed placesto achieve
the desired multicolour effect. Depending on the type
of substrate and the dyestuffs used the hanks are then
processed for suitable dye-fixation followed by
finishing.
Though, this method imparts controlled yarn coloration
at specified points and desired length, the process is
cumbersome and time consuming and is mainly suitable
for short length fabric.
Space dyeing in package form - depending on the
machinery available and the effect desired, the yarn
printing in package form is done by two methods
(i) Manual operation - colors are injected by hand at
different places in the package using a syringe filled
with the dye solution. The skill set developed by the
technicians enable them to insert the needle in the
package horizontally, vertically or at various angles
and release the color while taking the needle out so
that the required amount of dye is applied at the
specified place in the package.
July - August 2016
Another variant of this method is dip-stick process. In
this case different places of the yarn package are dipped
in different dye solution so that multiple colors get
applied at various places and with varying intensity
which after unwinding of yarn provides a unique fancy
dyed effect.
(ii) Machine processing - the ready for dyeing yarn is
pretreated as per the standard application process for
the specified substrate and dyed in a single package
form in a machine which can dye upto 8 colors. Each
color has a different feed tank as well as injector pump.
The color is injected at a fixed place at high pressure
and the excess color is collected through vacuum. This
creates beautiful patterns of dyed patches on package
with good sharpness. Subsequently the colored yarn
package is given adequate dye fixation treatment
followed by washing off of unfixed superficial dye
and finishing with a yarn lubricant/softener.
Knit deknit process - this process involves first
knitting the yarn on a circular or flat-bed knitting
machineinto a tubular fabric followed by printing using
engraved rollers and then unravelling the knit to
produce a space dyed yarn. As the printed color does
Journal of the TEXTILE Association
not readily penetrate the areas of the yarn where it
crosses itself, alternately dyed and undyed spaces
appear. In another method, the pre dyed knitted material
is overprinted with different colors and subsequently
deknitted to produce contrast effect of overprinted and
base dyedareas.This imparts a unique 'micro-spaced'
design, owing to the limited dye diffusion during the
printing stage. The unravelled printed yarn is rewound
onto cones and used for subsequent knitting or carpet
weaving.
121

Since thisprocess achieves limited dye penetration into
the yarn, as the pressure exerted by the printing rollers
is insufficient to insure adequate dye diffusion,
incomplete and non-uniform coloration may result.
Also, there is a characteristic curl to the unravelled
yarn due to pre-knitting which affects cut pile of
carpets.
Continuous or warp yarn printing - In this process
multiple strands of yarn are continuouslyprinted at
spaced intervals with different colors. These yarns
usually have long spaces of each color spaced at about
3 to 7inches. The yarn is dyed as singles or piled form
and the color is applied either by air jets or dye troughs.
Given below are few methods of continuous yarn
printing for achieving space dyeing effect based on the
information gleaned from various patented processes.
One of the methods describes yarn dyeing at intervals
along its length as it runs at very high speeds through
spaced dyebaths. Another method specifiessystems
where yarns are taken from wound packages on a creel
and color is applied, either by lick rollers or bya
spinning disc applicator. Such warp printing imparts a
'long spacing' design which is generallypreferred for
manufacturing of tufted carpets.
One process indicates passing of yarns between a pair
of cylinders around the surface of which are mounted
rows of small dye applicator pads. The lower cylinder
is dipped into a trough of dye liquor which gets picked
up on the surface of the pads and when the opposing
Journal of the TEXTILE Association
pairs are in the raised position the yarn passing between
them gets printed.
Another method proposesspace dyeing by running yarn
through the nip of printing rollers which have patterned
grooves on the outer periphery. In this apparatus, the
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TEXPERIENCE
printing rollers apply dye to the yarn only when the
lands of the two rollers are aligned across the
nip.Another process incorporates printing rollers with
grooves about their peripheries to provide a gear-like
appearance. Thus when the yarn is deflected into the
nip, that portion of the yarn which passes through the
nip gets intermittently printed to achieve closely spaced
marks or dots and thus further vary the dye pattern
applied to the yarn.
The advantage of space dyeing process over
conventional solid dyeing is not only in terms of the
intended special effect but also in terms of reduced
consumption of dyestuff and chemicals, avoidance of
printing thickener and considerable reduction in
effluent.
However, the challenges associated with yarn printing
include process to avoid mixing or overlapping of
colors along the length of yarn and onthe adjacent
yarns which otherwise tend to result in visible streaks
on the face of the fabric affecting its appearance.
Another issue pertains to tendency of dye migration
during the subsequent heat setting operation resulting
in blurring of adjacent color bands affecting its
appearance. Further, there is a chance of dye dripping
or contact mark off between different yarn layers
resulting in unwanted patches.Moreover, the dye
overspray from the various colors being applied often
mix together in a single collection system, which results
in added costs for replacement of dye as well as for
waste handling and disposal. This has necessitated
further development of an in-line process for controlled,
efficient and repeatable space-dyeingof yarn.
Summary: Yarn printing or space dyeing is a technique
used to impart a unique, multi-colored effect. When
woven or knitted together for apparel, home furnishing
and carpet making, beautiful patterns can emerge
depending on the length and variation of each color
block. Adequate use of dyes and auxiliary chemical
combined with specialised machines can createfinished
product as some of the best in the world. Presently the
yarn printing segment occupies a miniscule (less than
1%) share in the textile coloration space, however,
considering its potential to offer unique and customised
print design effects it has great potential to grow by
many folds in the near future.
July - August 2016