garment dyeing.

apparel

intelligent threads.
garment dyeing basics. 3
What is Garment Dyeing and why is it so famous? What is dyed?

Basic models of the collection are sewn “raw” and are dyed afterwards according to market trends and demands. A distinction is made between fabrics made from cellulosic fibres (e.g.
This procedure makes it possible to respond quickly to market trends. Garment Dyeing is perfect to achieve special design cotton) and those made from synthetic fibres (e.g. polyester or polyamide).
effects and a distinctive optical appearance. Garment Dyeing offers high flexibility regarding colours, logistics, materials Basically, all materials can be dyed, provided that the correct dyeing pro-
management and supply. cedure is used.

Most important fibre is and continues to be cotton. Other natural fibres

Common dyeing procedures.
Reactive dyes.
• dyestuff is linked chemically to the fibre
• for good to very good wash and rub fastness
Direct or sulphide dyes.
• no real chemical reaction with the fibre
• dyeing procedure is used if washed-out effects
are required
Pigment dyes.
• dyestuff is applied to the fibre using binder agents
• no real chemical reaction with the fibre
• very good light fastness
such as silk and wool as well as blends of them are increasingly
gaining significance. In addition, more and more elastic fabrics are used
(”Comfort-Stretch”, ”Power-Stretch”).
Fashionable dyeing procedures.
Polyamide fabrics are less prominent in Garment Dyeing. Polyamide fab-
rics are often used for underwear or for medical equipment. A future trend is
Old-Dye, Antique-Dye, Cold-Dye.
Garment Dyeing of polyester clothes (e.g. in the sportswear segment) using
• dyed with e.g. pigments or direct dyestuffs high-temperature dyes.
• by means of cellulase treatment or abrasive washing Garment dyed items include e.g. trousers, jackets, T-shirts, polo- and
treatments (e.g. stone wash), washed-out effects can sweatshirts, shirts and blouses, workwear, carpets, bath mats and towels,
be achieved socks, underwear, bags and shoes.
Dip-Dye.
• pre-fabricated garments are dipped into the dye bath
on hangers
• even colour gradients are achieved by slow dipping
and raising the garment
AMANN‘s product range for Garment Dyeing – Choosing the correct sewing thread.
Top-Dye. Choosing the correct sewing thread for Garment Dyeing depends on the raw material in use and the type of dyeing pro-
cedure. Garment Dyeing itself requires a special performance of the sewing thread. The market is looking for sewing threads
• sponges, rubber foam balls or rags are dipped into the
with a good dyeability, sufficient strength, efficient sewing performance and with ideal elongation. With PremiumGD, AMANN
dye bath and put into the dyeing machine together with
developed a sewing thread that unifies all those requirements for the first time!
the garments

• technique to achieve irregular and sketchy effects

Material Dyeing procedure AMANN products

Reactive dyes, substantive dyes, pigment dyes,

Cotton/elastic cotton fabrics PremiumGD, RasantGD, MERCIFIL CORNETA
Tie-Dye. direct dyes
• before the dyeing process, pre-fabricated garments are
folded or knotted, put into nets or are fixed by strings Polyester High-temperature dye with disperse dyes sabaC, Serafil

• technique to achieve irregular effects like batik

Polyamide Acid dyes or metal complex dyes Garment Dyeing 120, PA Bauschgarn SGD

It is also a current method to use dyed polyester sewing threads in combination with cotton dyeing procedures.
Using this method, the seam quality is optimised, but the original idea of Garment Dyeing is lost. Using sewing threads that are
already dyed offers no advantages in terms of logistics and quick response to colour trends. The use of PremiumGD combines
both!

No matter which dyeing procedure or sewing thread you choose – we recommend individual tests in any case.
products and applications. 5

Premium

Viscose/cotton core spun Polyester/cotton core spun

• THE innovation for Garment Dyeing • core spun thread made from 40% polyester
• the first sewing thread that combines perfect and 60% cotton
dyeability with elasticity • optimised dyeing properties due to the high cotton part
• core spun thread made from 70% viscose • the ideal addition to MERCIFIL CORNETA and
and 30% cotton PremiumGD, recommended to be used in combination
• robust in sewing • increased seam strength due to the polyester part
• suitable as needle and looper thread compared to 100% cotton threads
• robust in sewing

Product Ticket no. Tex no. Needle size Colour no. Make-up Product Ticket no. Tex no. Needle size Colour no. Make-up

20 150 Nm 140 – 160 1000 1.500 m Co 30 105 Nm 120 – 140 LT00 + DK01+ DK02 2.500 m Co

30 105 Nm 120 – 140 1000 2.500 m Co 50 60 Nm 100 – 110 LT00 + DK01+ DK02 5.000 m Co
RasantGD
PremiumGD 50 60 Nm 110 – 130 1000 5.000 m Co 75 40 Nm 90 – 100 LT00 + DK01+ DK02 5.000 m Co

75 40 Nm 100 – 120 1000 5.000 m Co 100 30 Nm 80 – 90 LT00 + DK01+ DK02 5.000 m Co

100 30 Nm 80 – 90 1000 5.000 m Co

Explanation of colour no.:
LT00 = Light with raw polyester core, recommended for light dyeing, depending on the type of treatment, it is also possible to use it all-purpose
DK01 = Medium with pre-dyed polyester core, recommended for medium dyeing
DK02 = Dark with pre-dyed polyester core, recommended for dark dyeing
Application recommendation per ticket.
Please consider: Due to the high cotton part, the dyeability is optimised. Nevertheless, only the cotton part is dyed during the dyeing process.
The polyester core remains undyed.
Ticket no. Tex no. Application recommendation

20 150 • needle thread for expressive decorative and topstitch seams

Application recommendation per ticket.
• needle thread for distinctive decorative and topstitch seams
30 105 • for highly stressed seams
Ticket no. Tex no. Application recommendation
• for heavy weight and very elastic fabrics
• under thread for highest safety on highly stressed seams (e.g. seat seams) especially
• under thread in combination with ticket no. 20 and 30 30 105 while using lockstitch
50 60 • for stressed seams • for heavy weight and elastic fabrics
• for heavy weight and very elastic fabrics
• under thread in combination with ticket 30 for more safety on stressed seams
• for lowly stressed seams
75 40 (e.g. seat seams)
• for serging seams 50 60
• for stressed inside seams
• for non-stressed seams • for heavyweight and elastic fabrics
• for serging seams
100 30 • for lowly stressed inside seams
• for fine fabrics (blouses, shirts, T-shirts) 75 40
• for serging seams
• as embroidery thread
• for non-stressed inside seams
100 30 • for serging seams
• for fine fabrics (blouses, shirts, T-shirts)

Co=
No matter which dyeing procedure or sewing thread you choose – we recommend individual tests in any case.
products and applications. 7
AMANN’s products for Garment Dyeing – Application recommendation.

Depending on the article of clothing and the type of fabric in use (elastic or non-elastic, blends of materials, density, etc.),
different concepts of sewing threads could be reasonable:

Sewing thread concept A (PremiumGD):

For seams visible from the outside For inside seams, not visible from the outside
Cotton spun, mercerised
Needle thread PremiumGD PremiumGD
• the classic sewing thread for Garment Dyeing
• made from long-staple mercerised cotton Under thread PremiumGD PremiumGD
• optimal dyeing properties
• specific signal colour prevents confusion
Sewing thread concept B (PremiumGD in combination with RasantGD):

For seams visible from the outside For inside seams, not visible from the outside

Product Ticket no. (Ne) Tex no. Ticket no. (Nm) Needle size Colour no. Make-up Needle thread PremiumGD RasantGD
10 180 18 Nm 140 – 160 3000 + 6231 1.000 m Co
Under thread RasantGD RasantGD
12 105 30 Nm 120 – 130 3000 + 6231 2.500 m Co

MERCIFIL - CORNETA 24/2 70 50 Nm 110 – 130 3000 + 6231 5.000 m Co

40 50 60 Nm 80 – 100 3000 + 6231 5.000 m Co Sewing thread concept C (MERCIFIL CORNETA in combination with RasantGD):

50 40 75 Nm 70 – 80 3000 + 6231 5.000 m Co For seams visible from the outside For inside seams, not visible from the outside
60 30 100 Nm 65 – 70 3000 + 6231 5.000 m Co
Needle thread MERCIFIL CORNETA RasantGD
Explanation of colour no.: 3000 = bleached, 6231 = removable signal colour
Under thread RasantGD RasantGD

Sewing thread concept D (MERCIFIL CORNETA):

Application recommendation per ticket.
For seams visible from the outside For inside seams, not visible from the outside

Ticket no. Tex no. Application recommendation Needle thread MERCIFIL CORNETA MERCIFIL CORNETA

10 180 • needle thread for expressive decorative and topstitch seams Under thread MERCIFIL CORNETA MERCIFIL CORNETA

12 105 • needle thread for decorative and topstitch seams

• for high stressed seams Sewing thread concept E (RasantGD):

24/2 70
• for decorative seams
For seams visible from the outside For inside seams, not visible from the outside
• for normally stressed seams
40 50
• as under thread for decorative seams Needle thread RasantGD RasantGD
• for lightweight fabrics (shirts, blouses and underwear)
50 40
• for serging seams Under thread RasantGD RasantGD
• for fine fabrics (shirts, blouses and T- shirts)
60 30
• for serging seams

Co=
No matter which dyeing procedure or sewing thread you choose – we recommend individual tests in any case.
 Sewing thread concept Sewing thread concept Sewing thread concept Sewing thread concept Sewing thread concept

A B C D E
PremiumGD PremiumGD MERCIFIL CORNETA MERCIFIL CORNETA RasantGD
in combination with in combination with
RasantGD RasantGD

Optical appearance     Perfect and uniformly Perfect and uniformly dyed Perfect and uniformly dyed     Perfect and uniformly Light spots possible on both
after dyeing dyed seams on both inside seams on the outside seams on the outside dyed seams on both inside inside and outside seams
and outside and outside
Light spots possible on Light spots possible on
inside seams inside seams

Seam elongation     highest higher high low higher

Comparison of sewing thread concepts.

Abrasion resistance high high low low high

Repair rate low low optimised high low

Sewing performance     Excellent sewing   Very good sewing Better sewing performance, Low sewing performance,   Very good sewing
performance, very high performance, very high less risk of thread breakages high risk of thread breakages performance, very high
machine speed possible machine speed possible compared to concept D machine speed possible
products and applications.

Thread concept Single thread concept Multiple thread concept Multiple thread concept Single thread concept Single thread concept

The revolutionary GD The alternative GD The modern GD The classical GD The special GD
sewing thread concept sewing thread concept sewing thread concept sewing thread concept sewing thread concept
for all applications, for all applications for increased seam with established result for individual effects
especially for very elasticity in dyeability
elastic fabrics
tely.
0
5
10
15
20

Thread balance
MERCIFIL
CORNETA
RasantGD

The correct thread balance in the seam.

PremiumGD

The drawing shows the lockstitch, please consider this also for the chainstitch.
Improved seam quality due to higher elongation of the sewing thread.

No matter which dyeing procedure or sewing thread you choose – we recommend individual tests in any case.
Consequence
a direct effect on seam quality. However, it is very important to consider the correct thread balance.
Elongation in %

Perfect thread balance =

optimal seam elasticity and seam strength

Inappropriate thread balance = Thread breakages

The higher thread elongation of RasantGD and especially PremiumGD has a positive influence on seam elasticity and therefore has

We know from long-term experience that inappropriate thread balance is the reason for broken seams in most cases.

thread (e.g. PremiumGD) has a positive impact, but it cannot compensate inappropriate thread balance in the seam comple-
Especially for Garment Dyeing, a perfect thread balance is crucial for the seam stability. The higher elongation of the sewing
9
applications – examples. 11
The following typical clothes for Garment Dyeing Trousers
illustrate the application of the recommended
Garment Dyeing has a large share in trousers’ pro-
sewing thread concepts. The sewing advisory ser-
duction. Customers appreciate the distinct look.
vice of AMANN is happy to recommend individual
Garment dyed trousers become frequently worn
sewing thread concepts with regard to your fabrics
favourites, which must be specifically robust and
and processing parameters in use. Furthermore,
durable. This is a particular challenge for sewing
sewing thread calculations are available on request.
threads, which must provide perfect dyeability and
at the same time sufficient strength and sewability.

Shirts & Blouses.

Garment Dyeing is also used for blouses and

shirts. Production of collars and cuffs, hems, button
panels and yokes asks for accurate seams, perfect
dyeing results and sufficient strength. AMANN‘s
sewing thread range for Garment Dyeing has been
developed to meet these challenges.

con- con-
Seam type Seam appearance Stitch type Needle thread Bobbin or looper thread Seam type Seam appearance Stitch type Needle thread Bobbin or looper thread
cept cept

Ticket Tex Ticket Tex Ticket Tex Ticket Tex

Product Product Product Product
no. no. no. no. no. no. no. no.

A PremiumGD 75 40 PremiumGD 75 40 A PremiumGD 50 60 PremiumGD 50 60

Closing seams (not 301 Closing seams (not 301
B RasantGD 75 40 RasantGD 75 40 B RasantGD 50 60 RasantGD 50 60
visible from the outside) lockstitch visible from the outside) lockstitch
C RasantGD 75 40 RasantGD 75 40 C RasantGD 50 60 RasantGD 50 60

A PremiumGD 75 40 PremiumGD 75 40 A PremiumGD 50 60 PremiumGD 50 60

Closing seams (not 401 Closing seams (not 401
B RasantGD 75 40 RasantGD 75 40 B RasantGD 50 60 RasantGD 50 60
visible from the outside) chainstitch visible from the outside) chainstitch
C RasantGD 75 40 RasantGD 75 40 C RasantGD 50 60 RasantGD 50 60

A PremiumGD 75 40 PremiumGD 75 40 A PremiumGD 30 105 PremiumGD 50 60

Topstitch seams (visible 301 Topstitch seams (visible 301
B PremiumGD 75 40 RasantGD 75 40 B PremiumGD 30 105 RasantGD 50 60
from the outside) lockstitch from the outside) lockstitch
MERCIFIL MERCIFIL
50 40 RasantGD 75 40 CORNETA
12 105 RasantGD 50 60
CORNETA

A PremiumGD 100 30 PremiumGD 100 30 A PremiumGD 75 40 PremiumGD 75 40

504 504
Serging seams 3-thread overlock B RasantGD 100 30 RasantGD 100 30 Serging seams 3-thread overlock B RasantGD 75 40 RasantGD 75 40
stitch stitch
C RasantGD 100 30 RasantGD 100 30 C RasantGD 75 40 RasantGD 75 40

A PremiumGD 100 30 PremiumGD 100 30 A PremiumGD 75 40 PremiumGD 75 40

304 B PremiumGD 100 30 PremiumGD 100 30 404 B PremiumGD 75 40 PremiumGD 75 40
Button hole Button hole
button hole button hole
MERCIFIL MERCIFIL MERCIFIL MERCIFIL
C 50 40 50 40 CORNETA
50 40 CORNETA
50 40
CORNETA CORNETA

A PremiumGD 75 40 A PremiumGD 75 40 PremiumGD 75 40

107 B PremiumGD 75 40 304 B PremiumGD 75 40 PremiumGD 75 40
Attach button Bar tack
attach button bar tack
MERCIFIL MERCIFIL MERCIFIL
C 50 40 C CORNETA
50 40 CORNETA
50 40
CORNETA

A = PremiumGD | B = PremiumGD in combination with RasantGD | C = MERCIFIL CORNETA in combination with RasantGD A = PremiumGD | B = PremiumGD in combination with RasantGD | C = MERCIFIL CORNETA in combination with RasantGD
No matter which dyeing procedure or sewing thread you choose – we recommend individual tests in any case.
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intelligent threads. Our management systems are certified according to

apparel shoes & leather embroidery

Amann & Söhne GmbH & Co. KG

Hauptstraße 1 | D-74357 Bönnigheim | Phone +49 7143 277-0
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E-Mail: service@amann.com | www.amann.com