Effects of industrial enzyme wash on denim

apparel characteristics
by M. M. Rahman, Lecturer, Department of Textile Engineering, Daffodil International University.
Abstract: Washing is one of the most important finishing 2. Materials and methods
treatments applied on apparels that have great usage to create
special outlooks and improving the fashion. Technologically 2.1. Materials selection
denim washing is the most important fashion element for clothing
The investigation has been carried out with currently popular
industry. Usually the term ‘washing’ is most significantly applied
and fashionable regular denim garments. Basic characteristics of
in case of sewn apparels so it is very essential to observe the
selected unwashed denim garments are mentioned below-
effects that have been made by particular washing on the fabrics
to hold the qualities of sewn apparels. Denim fabric composition: 100% cotton Indigo dye
The aim of this paper is to determine the effects of industrial Weave: twill 3/1 weave
enzyme wash on denim apparel characteristics. For this investiga- Ends/inch: 50-51
tion currently fashionable regular denim (100% cotton with twill Picks/inch: 41-42
3/1 weave construction) trouser was chosen. Surface density (gm/m2): 352-353
The selected denim trouser has been processed by enzyme Warp linear density (Ne): 6-7
washes. In order to evaluate the washing effects on denim
Weft linear density (Ne): 11-12
trouser, changes of fabric handle, fabric specification (ends/inch,
picks/inch, surface density, warp and weft yarn linear density), The denim garments have been processed by various types of
fabric strength, seam strength & fabric stiffness has been deter- enzyme washing and finally softening method as mentioned
mined after enzyme wash. below:
Keywords: Denim apparel, back staining, stiffness, specifica- 2.2. Method of desizing
tion, enzyme wash.
Apparel & Knitwear

Denim trousers has been subjected to Enzymatic desizing

process for removal of size material,s which were added in the
1. Introduction
sizing process to reduce ends breakage rate during weaving the
Industrial washing is one of the most important applied finish- fabric. Here desizing was carried out by using following suitable
ing methods on fabric or apparel. Different washing methods can recipe while maintaining proper time and temperature.
be applied in case of denim fabrics finishing. To achieve special Table1: Recipe of desizing
outlook as well as to change the fashion, responsible washing
methods are stone wash, sand wash and bleach wash[1]. Denim Process parameter Amount
produced from the fabric with twill weave including warp yarns Soda ash 400 gms
dyed with indigo color and undyed or white weft yarns [2].
Caustic soda 400 gms
In recent years, there is an interest in using fully biodegrad-
able enzymes which are environmentally friendly and nontoxic in Temperature 70.C
the modern textile finishing process. A number of mechanical and Time 15 minutes
chemical operations can be replaced by Enzymatic treatment,
which have been applied to improve fabric quality and com- After desizing the apparel was washed off for two times.
fort.[1,3]
2.3. Method of enzymatic wash
In the textile industry enzymes are applied mainly to get a
cleaner fabric surface with less fuzz, to reduce tendency to pill By desizing size materials were completely removed from the
formation, to smooth the surface combining with traditional sof- denim trousers, and after that it was washed by cellulase enzyme
teners [4]. with typical industrial recipe as mentioned below:
To improve fabric handle and other valuable properties, sof-
Table-2: Recipe of enzyme wash
teners are widely used in finishing operations [5].
For buying a textile, nice and appealing handle is very often Process parameter Amount
considered most important criterion. Fabric handle can be influ- SL Enzyme 400 gms
enced by using softener which is analyzed in the research work [6].
Acetic Acid 200 gms
Recently some papers have been published to analyze the
change of textile's color after applying in different finishing meth- Anti back staining agent 200 gms
ods as clients when choosing an item from shop always pay Temperature 40.C
attention to its color [7-10].
Time 12 minutes
Fabric specification (ends/inch, picks/inch, surface density,
warp & weft linear density), fabric tensile strength, fabric stiff-
ness, seam strength, etc must be treated as important character- During enzymatic treatment removed indigo dye can be re-
istics as those determine wear durability and longevity. However, deposited on the white or undyed weft yarn of denim fabric
the effects of enzyme wash on the changes of above mentioned which is known as back staining process and it can diminish the
characteristics are clearly evaluated in this paper. The aim of this outlooks of the trousers. So anti back staining agent was used
paper is to determine the effects of enzyme wash on denim here to resist back staining. After washing with enzyme the
apparel characteristics. trousers was washed off for two times.

46 PTJ January 2011

2.4. Method of softening 3.2. Changes of Fabric Specification after washing:
After sand blasting and enzyme wash, silicon softener was
used to make the denim fabric soft and improve handle property, Table 4: Effects of enzymatic wash on
as explained below in table 3. fabric specifications

Table 3: Recipe of fabric softening Percentage Average

No. of Before After of
Item Difference % of
Process parameter Amount Observation wash Wash
difference Change
Softener (Cationic) 200gms
1 41 44 +3 +7.32
Temperature Room Temperature

Time 5 minutes 2 40 43 +3 +7.50

Wash 2 times EPI 3 39 42 +3 +7.69 +6.88

After softening the apparel was washed off for two times. 4 42 44 +2 +4.76

2.5. Method of changes evaluation: 5 42 45 +3 +7.14

2.5.1. Change of Fabric handle property: Fabric handle prop-
erty was checked properly before and after enzyme washing by 1 38 42 +4 +10.52
feeling or touch.
2.5.2. Change of Fabric Specification: By counting glass 2 39 41 +2 +5.13
ends/inch and picks/inch were calculated from denim fabric of
the trousers. GSM cutter was used to calculate the surface density PPI 3 40 42 +2 +5.00 +7.33
(gram/square meter) of denim fabric by ISO 7211. To determine

Apparel & Knitwear

the warp and weft linear density (count) from denim trousers, 4 38 41 +3 +7.89
Beesleys direct reading balance was used by following ISO
7211/4:1984. 5 37 40 +3 +8.11
2.5.3. Change of fabric Strength: Tensile strength of denim
1 7 10 +3 +42.85
fabric was calculated by the help of fabric strength tester. EN ISO
13935 – 2; 1999Grab method was used for Tensile Strength
2 8 10 +2 +25.00
measurement.
Warp
2.5.4 Change of fabric Stiffness: Stiffness of denim fabric was Count 3 7 9 +2 +28.85 +34.52
measured by fabric stiffness tester. (ne)
2.5.5 Change of Seam Strength: Seam strength of trouser was 4 7 10 +3 +33.33
measured by seam strength tester. Methods : ISO 13935-2:
19999E ASTM D 1683 : 2007 5 6 8 +2 +11.11

1 9 10 +1 +12.50

2 8 9 +1 +22.22
Weft
Count 3 9 11 +2 +10.00 +13.39
(Ne)
4 10 11 +1 +11.11

5 9 10 +1 +

1 337 335 -2 -0.59

2 336 333 -3 -0.89

Surface
density 3 338 335 -3 -0.88 -0.825
Raw Sample. After wash sample. (gm/m2)
Figure: Sample. 4 337 334 -3 -0.89

3. Results and discussions 5 339 336 -3 -0.88

3.1. Changes of Fabric Handle after washing

As seen from the table above, for five (5) observations, it is
Enzyme washes Portions of denim garments: clear that during enzyme wash the value of fabric surface density
Before wash: Harsh feeling and rough surface. finally decreased though ends/inch (EPI) and picks/inch (PPI)
After wash: More soft and smooth surface. increased.

PTJ January 2011 47

 3.3. Changes of Fabric strength after washing 4. Conclusion

Table 5: Effects of enzymatic wash on fabric strength The aim of this paper was to observe the effects of enzyme
wash on denim apparel characteristics. For that purpose a denim
No of Percentage Average
Before After wash Difference trousers were chosen as apparel and after washing, changes on
observa- of % of
wash (gm) (gm) (gm) characteristics of denim trousers has been observed.
tion difference change
It is concluded that after enzyme wash the denim fabric
1 460 300 -160 -34.78
changed from harsh to softer. Due to abrasion damage ends/inch
2 455 305 -150 -32.96 and picks/inch of denim fabric has been decreased and as a result
surface density of fabric increased. Again tensile strength of fabric
3 465 315 -150 -32.25 -33.68 and seam strength of trousers has been decreased due to enzyme
4 470 310 -160 -34.04 washing.
Stiffness of denim fabric has been decreased after washing
5 465 305 -160 -34.40
which results in the increase of denim fabric softness. To hold the
qualities of sewn apparel it is very necessary to observe the effects
From the table given as above, one can see for five (5) obser-
of enzyme wash on denim apparels. By this paper it will be possi-
vations, it is clear that after enzyme wash the fabric strength of
ble to know how denim apparel characteristics can be changed by
denim fabric strength has been decreased from the values
industrial enzyme wash.
obtained before washing.
References
3.4. Changes of Seam strength after washing
[1] Enzymes.http//www.cht-group.com/(Downloaded: 05-03-
Table 6:Effects of enzymatic wash on seam strength 2009, 08:25pm)
[2] Denim fabric: Properties and testing methods, standard and
No of industrial researches of Iran Institute, 2194, 1381.
Before After wash Difference % of dif- Average % [3] Enzyme for Textiles.
observa-
wash (gm) (gm) (gm) ference of change http//www.mapsenzymes.com/Enzymes_Textile.asp
tion
Apparel & Knitwear

(Downloaded: 28-04-2009, 02:15pm)

1 85 67 -18 -21.17 [4] Buscle-Diller, G., Dong Yang, X. Enzymatic Bleaching of
2 83 65 -18 -21.68 Cotton Fabric with Glucose Oxidase. Textile Research Journal
71(5) 2001: pp.388-394.
3 87 66 -21 -24.13 -22.334 [5] Milda jucienė, Vaida dobilaitė, Giedre Kazlauskaitė. Influence
4 86 67 -19 -22.09 of Industrial Washing on Denim Properties. Materials Science
12 (4) 2006:PP.355
5 84 65 -19 -22.61 [6] Webwr, R. New Aspects in Softening. Cht R. Beitlin Gmbh
1999: pp. 30.
From the table as above, for five (5) observations, it is clear [7] Blazevi , P., Strazdien , E. The Application of Commercial
that after enzyme wash the Seam strength of denim fabric Bleaches for Clothing Decoration Projektowanie, materialy,
strength has been decreased from the values obtained before technologia skory, odziezy i obuwia Radom, Poland,
washing. 2004:pp. 143-147.
[8] Dobilaitė, V., Jucienė, M. Influence of Industrial Washing on
3.5. Changes of Stiffness after washing
Denim Garment Colours Change light industry-fibrous
Table 4: Effects of enzymatic wash on fabric Stiffness Materials: III International Scientific Conference Radom,
Poland, 2005: pp.309-314.
Before After [9] Militky, J., Bajzik, V. Influence of Washing/Ironing Cycles on
No of obser- Difference % of
Direction Side wash wash
vation (gm) difference Selected Properties of Cotton Type Weaves International of
(gm) (gm)
Clothing Science and Technology 9 (3) 1997: pp. 193-199.
1 4.45 2.8 -1.65 -37.08 [10]Alpay, H. R., Becerir, B., Akgun, M. Assessing Reflectance
Face and Color Differences of Cotton Fabrics after Abrasion
2 4.55 2.9 -1.65 -36.26 Textile Research Journal 75(4) 2005: pp.357-361.

Warp
1 3.75 2.6 -1.15 -30.67
Back
2 3.80 2.5 -1.30 -34.21

Face
1
2
2.40
2.35
2.3
2.2
-0.1
-0.15
-4.17
-6.38
PTJ PDF SERVICE
Weft
1 2.30 2.5 -0.2 -8.69
Back
2 2.30 2.4 -0.1 -4.35

From the table for two (2) observations along the warp and
weft directions for both face and back side of denim fabric, it is
clear that after enzymatic desizing process, size materials were
removed from the fabric and for softening, the stiffness of denim
fabric has been decreased which indicating the increase of fabric
softness.

48 PTJ January 2011