Textile processing route

Fibre

Yarn Fabric

Garment or other textile

products
 INTRODUCTION TO CHEMICAL
PROCESSING
Why we do dyeing/printing?
• Because Colored products are attractive and gives
pleasure/ comfort
• In textile dyeing terms: The main objectives of
dyeing are:
-Colour the fibre uniformly
-Achieve acceptable durability of the colour
to further treatments in production and normal use
( colour fastness properties)
 What require for dyeing?
• Fibre: fibre OR yarn OR fabric form(Substrate)
• Colouring material: Dyes or pigment
• Dyeing machine
Pigment: Not water soluble and possess no specific
attraction for any particular fibre type. They usually
adhere to the surface of the fibre
Dyes: Water soluble or dispersible. Certain dyes are
attracted to certain fibre types. They absorbed or
adsorbed into the fibre
Printing: It is localised dyeing
 Stages of dyeing
• Attraction to the fibres : depending upon
type of dyes and fibres
• Adsorption of the dye molecule on to the
fibres
• Diffusion inside the fibres
1
3
Dye bath
2
Where D is dye molecule in water D
1,2,3 are the stages Fibre
Interface
 Dye & Fibre
FIBRE DYE
Cotton, Direct, Reactive, Vat,
Viscose Sulphur, Azoic
Polyester Disperse
Nylon Acid
Wool Basic
Acrylic Basic
Silk Acid
 Characteristics of dyes
• Intense colour
• Solubility in water
• Substantivity to the fibre in question
• Durability to wet treatment
• Durability to further treatments in
production and normal use
• Safe, easy to handle, and reasonably priced
 Intense colour

• The dyes have intense colours.

• Due to intense colour small amount of dyes
are sufficient to obtain desired shades.
• In practice, the increase in weight of fibrs
by dyeing is between 0.1% to 3%
 Solubility in water
• Dyes are soluble or dispersible in water
• Water is the vehicle of exhaust dyeing; it
carries the dyes to the fibres.
• Disperse dyes are sparingly soluble in
water, the require dispersing agent.
 Substantivity to the fibre
• Dyes have to be substantive to the fibre in
question.
• The affinity that a dye has particular fibre is
referred to by the dyers as ‘Substantivity’
• The substantivity of a dye to a fibre must be
much stronger than affinity to water
 Durability to wet treatment
• Dye must possess the ability to become
durable to wet treatment
• A high substantivity dyes some time
provide sufficient durability of the colour to
a limited number of mild washing
• So after treatment step may be taken to
improve upon durability
Durability to further treatment in
production and normal use
• Dyes should have fastness to further
treatment in production and normal use.
• Example: To apply durable press finish, the
dyes should withstand the low pH and high
temperature
• In addition dyes should have good fastness
properties
 Safe, easy to handle, and
reasonably priced
• The dyes should be safe, easy to handle and
reasonably priced
 Information on colouring
materials
• Dye manufacturers provide dyers with detailed descriptions
of their dyes, regarding their application and behaviour in
normal use, in the so called “Color Card or Shade Card”.
• The most comprehensive reference on dyes and colouring
material is the colour Index, first published by the Society of
Dyers and Colorists (SDC) of England in 1924
• The third edition published jointly with American
Association of Textile Chemists and Colourist (AATCC)
• The information includes physical properties, chemical
constitution, method of application, fastness properties, and
list of potential fibres to which they can apply
 Where Do Fibers Come From?

Natural Fibers:
Come from plants and animals and are spun or
twisted into yarns.
Natural fibers are generally not as uniform as
synthetic fibers and are affected by climatic changes.  
Other natural fibers include silk, wool, jute, ramie,
hemp, and linen.
Synthetic Fibers:
Are made from various chemicals or regenerated
from cellulose such as wood pulp and cotton waste.
 FIBRE CLASSIFICATION

NATURAL MAN MADE

FIBRES FIBRES
• Cotton •Acetate

• Wool •Acrylic
• Silk •Nylon
• Linen •Polyester
• Hemp ,Ramie & Jute •Rayon
•Spandex
 NATURAL FIBRES
They comes from animals coats, silkworm cocoons, and plants'
seeds, leaves, and stems.
Wool - Fibers from animal coats: Sheep, goats, rabbits,
alpacas, llama...
Cotton - Fibers from the cotton plant’s seed pod

Silk - Fibers from the cocoon of the silkworm

Linen- Linen is from flax, a bast fiber taken from the stalk of
the plant
Hemp, Ramie, and Jute - All of these are similar to linen but the

plants are processed slightly differently.

 
 MANUFACTURED OR MAN MADE FIBRES

ACETATE

• It is not a strong fiber but can be extruded into fibers of

different diameter.
•It has a luxurious look .
•Acetate does not absorb moisture readily but dries fast and
resists shrinking.
•This is a resilient fabric that resists wrinkling in addition to being
pliable and soft with a good drape.
TRIACETATE

• It is an improved acetate fibre.

• It doesn’t melt as easier.
ACRYLIC

•It is a fine soft and luxurious fibre with the bulk and hand of
wool.
•Light weight and springy also.
•These fibres are non-allergenic.
•Dries quickly, draws moisture away from the body and is
washable.
• Acrylic does not take even a moderate amount of heat.
MODACRYLICS

• are more flame resistant.

• are used in pile fabrics like fake fur.
NYLON
• Nylon is ,one of the most versatile fibers of the man- made
fabrics.
• In addition to hosiery, nylon is used in tricot, netting for bridal
veils, and in carpeting.
• Nylon is stronger yet weighs less than any other commonly
used fiber.
• It is elastic and resilient and responsive to heat setting.
• Nylon fibers are smooth, non-absorbent and dry quickly.
•Dirt doesn’t cling to this smooth fiber nor is it weakened by
chemicals and perspiration.
Extensive washing and drying in an automatic dryer can
eventually cause piling.
 Nylon whites should be washed separately to avoid graying.
Nylon melts at high temperatures. If ironing is necessary,
always use a low temperature on the wrong side.
This fabric may yellow so it should be bleached frequently
with sodium perborate bleach.
POLYESTER
• It is a strong fiber that is resistant to crease and thus keeps
it shape.
• Polyester melts at medium to high temperatures.
• Blends of polyester give cotton a permanent press property.
• Polyester is manufactured in many ways including fiber-fill
used in pillows and upholstery.
• Threads spun from polyester fibers are strong, wear
exceptionally well, and are used extensively in home sewing

and manufactured sewing.

RAYON
• Rayon has many qualities of cotton, a natural cellulose fiber.
• Rayon is strong & extremely absorbent fibre .
• Rayon comes in a variety of qualities and weights.
• Rayon does not melt but burns at high temperatures.
• Rayon drapes well, has a soft, silky hand, and has a smooth,

napped, or bulky surface.

• Rayon will wrinkle easily and may stretch when wet and shrink
when washed.
VISCOSE RAYON

• It is one of the newer high performance rayon.

• It wrinkles less.
• It can be washed easily .
• It can be woven into heavy or light fabrics.
SPANDEX
• It is an elastic type fiber
• It can be stretched many times its length and then spring
back to the original length.
• Spandex is more resistant to washing, perspiration, and
heat than latex.
• Spandex is used in foundation garments and hosiery.
 PROCESS SEQUENCES OF
CHEMICAL PROCESSING

Grey fabric Inspection & Shearing &

Stitching Cropping

Drying Bleaching Scouring Desizing Singeing

Mercerising

Dyeing Printing

Soaping & Drying

Folding & Packing
Finishing
 Textile material
• Fibre: Loose stock

• Yarn: Hank, Package (Cone/cheese), Rope,

Sheet form

• Fabric: Open width, Rope form

 Chemical processing methods
• Batch process

• Continuous process

• Semi-continuous process
 Selection of the method depends on the
quantity & shape of the material to be
processed
 Process vs Material
• Batch process
-Fibre (Loose stock)
-Yarn (Hank, Package)
-Fabric (Open width, Rope)
• Continuous process
-Yarn (Rope, sheet)
-Fabric (Open width, rope)
• Semi continuous process
-Yarn (Hank)
-Fabric (Open width, rope)
Machine used for Dyeing processing
( Fabric )
Rope form Open width
Processing Processing
Kiers Jigs
Winch Beams
Jets / Soft flow Pad- Steam
Ranges ( CR)
J- Boxes
Garment dyeing: Open Width J –
Boxes
•Drum washing
cum dyeing Relax Scouring
machine
Machine used for Dyeing processing
( Fibre & Yarn )

Fibre Yarn

Fibre dyeing -Package dyeing

machine machine
-Cabinet dyeing
machine
-Hank dyeing
machine
Steps of Chemical processing

-Preparation: Desizing, scouring, singeing

-Bleaching
-Dyeing
-Printing
-Finishing
 Preparation
This is done to prepare textile material for dyeing,
printing and special purpose, aesthetic, and
functional finishes.

Greige Good
 Greige (gray) goods are unfinished fabrics. They
have been produced but have received NO
finishing operations.
 Preparation
Desizing
• • Removal of sizing material from warp yarns 
• •Necessary for dyes and finishes to bond
CARRIED OUT ONLY ON FABRIC HAVING SIZING
MATERIAL
MACHINE: JIGGER, JET DYEING, SOFTFLOW DYEING ETC.
•QUALITY CONTROL: Size removal, fluidity
•PROCESS CONTROL: Temp., pH, wet pick-up, reaction time
  Singeing

Burns any fiber ends projecting from the surface

of the fabric.
• Makes fabrics smooth
• Prevents pilling
• Improves luster
• Applied to fabrics made from staple fibers
• This is Mechanical process and Durable
 Process control-Singeing
• Intensity and uniformity of flame
• Working speed of the fabric to be singed
• Effectiveness of singeing should not add
harshness in the fabric
• Should not damage the synthetic filament
yarn in the fabric
 Bio-Polishing
--May be called singeing by enzymes
Application of cellulase enzyme
Applied to cotton or cotton/polyester
blends
Removes surface fuzz from spun yarns
Decreases pilling propensity
 Quality & Process control-
Biopolishing
• Quality control
-Activity of enzyme

• Process control
-pH
-Time
-Temperature
 Scouring
  Removes foreign matter and soil
• Uses Sodium hydroxide or sodium carbonate or detergents
• Improve absorbency and whiteness
MACHINES: Kier, J. Box, Jigger, Jet dyeing, softflow, Package
and Cabinet m/cs for yarn, Fibre dyeing machine
•QUALITY CONTROL:Scouring loss, Fats & Wax content,
Absorbency, Fluidity
•PROCESS CONTROL: Steam pressure, Time of boiling, Wet-
pick-up padding, Residual alkalinity at the time of drain
 
 Bleaching
• Is the process of whitening-fibers, yarns, or fabrics having natural
colour
• Material may damage if the the temperatures and
concentration of chemical are high -- Control all parameters
carefully
   • Cellulose fibers --- chlorine & Peroxide bleach
• Protein fibers --- Peroxide is used
MACHINES: JIGGER, JET DYEING, SOFTFLOW DYEING
FOR FABRIC & PACKAGE, CABINET FOR YARN, FOR FIBRE
FIBRE DYEING MACHINE
 Bleaching
QUALITY CONTROL: Whiteness and whiteness
retention, Fluidity, Fabric strength
PROCESS CONTROL: Conc. of hypochlorite ( g/l
av. Chlorine), Alkalinity, Peroxide con., Silicate
ratio, pH, Time of reaction, Residual chlorine or
peroxide at the time of drain or spent lye
 Souring
Process to remove metallic salts such as calcium,
magnesium carbonate etc. and other mineral matter
with the help of acid-If not removed give a harsh feel
and also affect uniformity of the shade during dyeing
QUALITY CONTROL: Ash content, Fluidity, fabric
strength
PROCESS CONTROL: Conc. of acid, Temperature,
Residual acidity on the fabric (pH)
 Optical Brightener
• Used to whiten off-white fabrics.
• Fluorescent whitening compounds are used
• Emit a bluish fluorescence that masks yellow
• Sometimes added to spinning solution in manufactured
fibers

 QUALITY CONTROL: Brightness Index

PROCESS CONTROL: Conc. of brightening agent, Time

 Mercerization
• Used on cellulose and its blends (cotton, linen, and some rayon)
•Mercersing can be carried out on yarn or fabric
• Improve luster, softness, strength
• MACHINE: Yarn or fabric mercerising machine

QUALITY CONTROL: Barium activity no., Luster, Fabric

Width, Shrinkage, Residual alkalinity, fabric or yarn strength

PROCESS CONTROL: Conc. of alkali (at Impregnation stage

and Wash liquor), Speed, Dwell time, Wet-pick-up, Width before
mercerising, Residual alkalinity on the fabric

 
 Quality control measure for
dyed material
• Uniformity of dyeing
• Levelness and penetration of dyeing
• Fastness to various agencies
-Washing
-Light
-Dry and Wet rubbing
-Perspiration
-Bleaching
Process control measure in yarn
dyeing(Open Vat):Part-I
-M:L ratio
-Temperature
-Concentration of chemicals
-Total time of dyeing
 Process control measure in
Yarn dyeing Package dyeing
machine: Part-I
-M:L ratio
-Temperature
-Concentration of chemicals
-Flow rate
-Time of cycle reversal
-Total time of dyeing
 Process control measure in
Fabric dyeing(Batch-
Jig/Winch): Part-II
-M:L ratio
-Temperature
-Concentration of chemicals
-No. of ends in each operation
-Total time of dyeing
 Process control measure in Fabric
dyeing
(Semi-cont. Pad-Jig): Part-II
-Speed of padding
-Nip Pressure
-Wet pick-up
-Concentration of chemicals in developing
bath
-No. of ends in each operation
 Process control measure in Fabric
dyeing(Continuous): Part-II
-Speed
-Nip Pressure
-Wet pick-up
-Temperature of intermediate dyeing
-Concentration of chemicals in developing
bath
-Time of steaming
 PRINTING
 Localised dyeing
• Styles of printing
1. Direct Style: Pigment, Reactive, Disperse
2. Resist/Discharge Style
 PRINTING TECHNOLOGY
• Block printing
• Batik
• Tie and die
• Table screen printing
• Flat-bed Screen Printing
• Roller Printing
• Rotary screen printing
 Quality control-Printing
• Uniformity of prints
• Sharpness of prints
• Fastness to various agencies
-Washing
-Light
-Dry and Wet rubbing
-Perspiration
-Bleaching
 Process control-Printing

• Pigment printing:
- Consistency of the print paste
- Curing
a) Time
b) Temp.
 Process control-Printing
• Reactive & Disperse Printing
- Consistency of printing paste
- Steam Fixation
a) Steam pressure
b) Time of steaming
-Dry baking
a) Temp.
b) Time
 Process control-Printing
• Resist/Discharge Style
-Stability of printing paste
-Steaming conditions
a) Steam pressure
b) Temperature
c) Time
 FINISHING

anything done to fiber, yarn, or fabric (either before or

after fabrication) to change the appearance (what is seen),
the hand (what is felt), and/or the performance (what the
fabric does.

    all finishing adds to the cost of the end product and
the time it takes to produce it.
 Ways To Describe Finishes
 
1. Visibility
2. How long the finish lasts
3. How the finish is applied
4. Routine vs. Aesthetic and Special Purpose finishes
 
  Visibility
Visible Finishes Invisible Finishes

Dyeing  Durable Press

Printing Water Repellent

 Embossing Anti-static

 Napping Flame-retardant
  

 How Long The Finish Lasts

 
Ø    Some finishes are permanent
Ø    Some finishes are durable
Ø    Some finishes are temporary
Ø   Some finishes are renewable
  

How The Finish Is Applied

 
A. Mechanical finishes are applied by the use of equipment. i.e.
calendaring, singeing

B. Chemical finishes use chemicals in their application. i.e.

bleaching, durable press
   Routine vs. Aesthetic & Special
Purpose Finishes

Ø Routine finishes

 Aesthetic finishes and Special Purpose finishes

 Routine Finishes

• Desizing, scouring, bleaching, dyeing,

printing etc.
 Special Purpose Finishes
1. Flame Retardant 8.Resinated
2. Anti-static 9.Durable Press
3. Anti-Pilling 10.Water repellent
4. Soil- Repellent 11.Dimensional Stability
5. Soil Release 12.Water proof
6. Moth Resistant 13.Fading effect
7. Mildew- Resistant

 
 Quality control in finishing
• Temporary Finished
-Handle
-Add-on
• Semi durable Finished
-Waterproofed and water repellent
a) Cone test
b) Bundesman test
c) Spray test
d) Pressure head test
-Flame resistance/proofed
a) LOI
b) Glow time
c) Char length
 Quality control in finishing
 Durable finished
- Strength
A) tear
B) tensile
C) abrasion
- Wrinkle recovery angle or test wash-n-wear
rating
 Quality control in finishing
-Sanforised test
-Resistance to
a) Chlorinne
b) Acid, alkali, hydrolysis
 Process control in finishing
• On stenter
-Speed
-wet pick up
-Temperature of different chambers
-Width
• Feeding delivery
 Process control in finishing
 On polymeriser
- Speed
- Temperature
- Time of curing
 On Calendar
-Damping
-Bowl pressure
-Steam pressure
-Width
 Process control in finishing
• On sanforiser
-Speed
-Width
a) Initial
b) Final
-Dimensional stability
 Why we do blending?
• To incorporate desired properties
• Cost
• Fashion
• Availability of technology
 MOISTURE REGAIN
FIBRE TYPE Moisture regain, %
Cotton 8.5
Wool 14-19
Mercerised cotton Upto 12
Silk 11
Flax 12
Viscose 14
Nylon 6
Polyester 0.4
Acrylic 1.5
Triacetate 4.0
Polypropylene 0
Glass 0
 Other properties
Property Polyester Cotton Viscose
Strength (Dry) Very high Lower Poly. Lower Poly.
Strength (Wet) No change Increase Drastically reduce
Nature Hydrophobic Hydrophilic Hydrophilic
Extension at break High Lower Poly. Lower Poly.
Static charge High Negligible Negligible
generation
Moisture regain (%) 0.4 8.5 14
Flammability Low Lower-Viscose, High
Higher-Poly
Structure High Low Low
(crystalline)
Comfort (Air Low High High
permeability)