CLASSIFYING FABRICS

 Textile –defined as a complete study of fibres, yarns and fabrics

 A finish is a treatment given to a fabric to change its appearance and performance to
make it more suitable for intended use.
FINISHED AND UNFINISHED FABRICS
 When a fabric is given a finish- it is known as a finished textile
 When no finish is applied it is called gray goods or unfinished textile

Unfinished/gray fabric Finished fabric

Dull looking, found only in natural colors e.g. off
white, brown and black
Wrinkled with broken threads, stained and uneven
edges
Unattractive to customers, used for rough
work…..e.g. packing and backing
lusterous and attractive available in
different tints, prints and shades
Smooth and wrinkle free, no defects,
even edges and free from stains
Attractive to customers and marketab

IMPOTANCE OF FINISHES
 Improves appearance
 Variety is obtained i.e. printing and dyeing
 Improves texture( feel)
 Increases usability
 Improves draping ability
 Enhancing performance
CLASSIFICATION OF FINISHES
 Classification is based on:
 I. function
 Ii. Performance
 III. Nature
FUNCTION
 These may further be classified as:
 Basic(aesthetic)
 specialized (functional)
AESTHETIC (BASIC, COMMON) FINISHES
 Finish is applied to improve appearance, feel or body
 Examples are; bleaching, starching, steam ironing, dyeing, printing and embroidery
PERFORMANCE FINISHES
 These are identified by the degree of performance;
 Temporary- e.g. starching
 Semi durable- e.g. bleaching, dyeing
 Durable- pleats, wrinkle
 Permanent- waterproof, fireproof
FUNCTIONAL (SPECIAL) FINISHES
 These are applied to improve performance of fabrics for specific uses
 Examples fireproof, waterproof and crease resistant treatments for finishes
CHEMICAL/MECHANICAL FINISHES
 Also called wet and dry finishes respectively
 Chemical finishes- appearance or physical properties is changed and its permanent e.g.
crease resistance, fireproof
 Mechanical finishes-moisture, pressure or devices are used e.g. heating, brushing etc.
DYES AND PRINTING
 The process of producing colour and designs on fabric is called dyeing and printing
DYES
 There are two types;
 Natural dyes
 Synthetic dyes
NATURAL DYES
 Obtained from natural sources e.g. vegetables, animals, minerals
 its slow, difficult and expensive but eco friendly
SYNTHETIC DYES
 Are made from chemicals
 Are hazardous
 Easy to use
APPLICATION OF DYES
 Dyes are used on:
 Fibre
 Yarn
 Fabric
 Garments
DECORATIVE DYEING
 This is when dyeing is carried out in a selective ways to get a different designs
 This also called resist dyeing…threads or wax is used
 Examples of resist dyeing are;
 Tie and dye
 Batik
TIE AND DYE
 Threads are used as resist material to stop the dye from entering the selected areas of
the fabric
TIE AND DYE DESIGNS
 Marbling –fabric is crumbled into a ball and tied into at different areas randomly
 Binding- fabric is folded and picked from one point and tied with a thread at intervals
 Knotting – knots are put on a fabric wherever desired
  Folding – put the fabric on a table pleat and fold it uniformly in lengthwise direction tie
it at regular intervals to get widthwise lines and vice versa is true for length wise lines.
BATIK
 Wax is used as resist material
PRINTING
 Printing is done on fabrics only
 Types of printing are:
 Block printing
 Screen printing
 Roller printing
 Stencil printing
Various types of fabric
Fabrics: - Sets of yarns are used for formation of fabric, Fabrics are produced in
number of ways which are detailed below:
Types of Fabrics
Woven Knitted Nonwoven Others
Woven Fabric: A woven fabric is composed of two basic series of yarn called warp
and weft
Knitted Fabric: Fabric which are constructed by interlocking a series of loop of one
or more yarns by hand or by machine are called knitted Fabrics.
Non-Woven Fabric: It is produced by mixing fibers and making into the form of a
thick layer of web of width corresponding to desired width of the fabric.
Other Fabrics: Braids, Lace, Netting, Felt etc.

Parts of Woven fabrics:

Body: It is the main portion of the fabric containing the intended fabric design.
Selvedge: It is the narrow woven edge portion of the fabric parallel to the warp, made
with special strong yarns in a closer construction than the body to prevent unraveling.
Face: It is the intended front side of the fabric.
Back: It is the intended back side of the fabric.
Two base knitted fabric structures
Weft Knitting:
In Weft knitting loops are made in a horizontal way from single yarn
Intermeshing of loops takes place on a course-wise.
Type of weft knit: Plain Jersey Knit, Purl Knit, Rib Knit, Patterned Knits & Double Knits.
Warp Knitting:
In warp knitting loops are made in a vertical way along the length of the fabric from each
warp yarn Intermeshing of loops takes place on a Wale-wise.
Type of warp knit: Tri-cot, Rachel knits.
Lace Fabric
Lace is an ornamental or decorative openwork fabric in which design elements formed
by the inter twisting of threads are joined either by meshes, usually of regular size &
shape, forming an apparent openwork fabric.
Net fabric
It consists of warp threads with weft threads which twist around each warp thread & run
diagonally from selvedge to selvedge. Net fabrics have three series of threads parallel warp
threads, mesh threads & binding threads.
Blending
It is common to blend yarns to provide optimum qualities in a fabric. Aesthetically a blended
yarn may have a better handle and drape, and blending can also add function or reduce the cost
of a fabric. Synthetic fibres are often blended with natural fibres to improve their qualities, for
example, polyester mixed with cotton will produce a fabric with a natural handle that creases
less. Lycra and spandex can be mixed with other fibres to give a stretch quality so that a fabric
retains its shape with wear; this is especially suitable for performance sportswear. Blending can
occur during fibre production, yarn formation or in the processes of knitting and weaving.
FABRICS
Fabric is a cloth or textile made through different types of fabric construction processes. For a
textile fabric to come into existence it passes through different processing methods at different
stages. I.e. from fibres to yarns then to fabric. Fibres are a row material that is processed in
order to come up with yarns which are constructed into fabric by using different construction
methods. Finally the constructed fabrics are applied with fabric finishes that changes the fabric
appearance by visual and touch as well as change the fabrics reactions to different conditions
and forces. In these notes, matters concerning the fabric and how it comes into existence shall
be outlined clearly.
The tailor needs to achieve this by having the ability to identify fabrics and know the methods
of fabric construction. At the end of the lesson the objectivesthat need to be achieved are as
follows: Ability to:-
 identify types of fabrics
 identify types of fibres
 identify methods of fabric construction
 identify fabric finishes
 carry out fabric tests
FIBRES
The romantic story of textile has extended through some 12000 years of history. During that
period the number of natural fibres used gradually increased to reach a total of four major ones
– cotton, silk, wool and flax. Not until this centurydid humans begin to add their own
production to nature’s store. The development has been phenomenal; the variety of fabrics in
the market today is almost unlimited. Through various combinations of natural and manmade
fibres, the producers of textile fabric have offered consumers practically all that are possible in
the way of performance, appearance and easy care.
 Types of fibres to include natural and manmade
 Categories /classes of natural fibres to include animal and plant
 Natural fibres to include cotton, silk, wool, sisal and flax
 Categories/classes of manmade fibres to include regenerated and synthetic
 Manmade fibres to include nylon, polyester, acrylic and rayon

CLASSIFICATION OF TEXTILE FIBRES

NATURAL MANMADE

Animal vegetable mineral natural synthetic non polymer

Polymer polymer(Metal thread)
Seed flax sisal fruit
Protein regenerated cellulose mis
cellen
Silk wool hair nious
(goat) organic organic(glass)
(camel)
(hare)
(horse) polyurethanes polyamides polyesters polyvinyl
(cow) nylon

NOTE: regenerated fibres are a mixture of fibres that result into a new different fibre.

PROPERTIES OF FIBRES
Properties of fibres entail the fibre behavior that describes fabrics characteristics. Properties of
fibres include fineness, abrasion, shape retention, density (strength), wrinkle or crease,
thermal, reaction to moisture (absorbency) resilience (elasticity) and static electricity.
These properties react to certain forces and show out their behavior. The Conditions include
fire, water cold weather, rubbing, chemicals and light or sunlight.
YARN PRODUCTION
During fibre production, synthetic fibres are put through a spinning process during which they
are forced through small holes in showerhead-style structure, creating long, continuous fibres
called ‘filament’ fibres. Unlike natural fibres, manufacturers can control the thickness of the
fibre during
This process. Staple fibres are short, natural fibres with the exception of silk, which naturally
develops in a continuous length. Filament fibres can be cut to resemble staple fibres, so
mimicking the properties of natural fibres. Synthetic fibres are cut down to become staple fibres
when they are blended with natural fibres. Spinning is also the name given to the process of
twisting staple fibres together to make yarn. Yarn is twisted during the spinning process; the
twist holds the short fibres together and contributes to strength. Yarn for weaving is tightly
twisted to make it strong, while yarn for knitting is twisted more loosely to make it stretch. It
also has better absorbency and a softer, warmer handle. A single yarn is one yarn twisted, ply
yarns are two or more single yarns twisted together. Two-ply yarn is two yarns twisted together
and three-ply is three yarns twisted together. Ply yarns are stronger than single yarns. Yarn can
also be twisted and textured to enhance its performance or aesthetic qualities. Synthetic yarns
can be heat set during manufacture to produce a texture.

METHODS OF FABRIC CONSTRUCTION

Methods of fabric construction to include weaving, knitting, bonding, crocheting, macramé and
felting
WEAVING
Method of fabric construction that is very common. Weaving is the process of interlacing
lengthwise and crosswise yarns at right angles. The woven fabrics are usually firm, even woven
and free of flaws. They usually show no indication of slippage 2 and do not wrinkle or crease
when crushed.

KNITTING
The knitted fabrics are constructed with an arrangement of interlocking loops of yarns that are
influenced by the type of knitting style used, that is, the fibre, the fineness or closeness of the
knitting, the dimensional stability of the fabric and special finishes.

BONDING
Bonded fabrics are light but firm and require no underlining of the tricot (knit) that usually is
fused to the back of them. Bonded fabrics do not ravel 1. It is important to check a bonded fabric
whether the lengthwise and crosswise yarns are at right angles to each other. So bonded fabrics
are first woven and then fused with a tricot or knit to make them strong.

CROCHETING
Crocheted fabrics are constructed in anarrangement of interlocking loops of cotton yarns by
using a crochet hook. The name is derived from a French term ‘crochet’ which means a small
hook. Usuallydone with the use of by hand and are influenced by crocheting patterns.
MACRAMÉ
A form of textile making using knots rather than weaving or knitting. Its primary knots are the
square knots (a variant of the reef knot) forms of hitching. The process of construction is done
by full hitch and double hitches. Sometimes after macramé the fabric appears like a web that
has been made out of hand knotted cords. Usually used for wall decorations, hanging baskets
garments etc.
FELTING
Felt fabrics are without grain, making it possible to place pattern sections in any direction. They
are available in different colours and do not ravel. Many construction processes for leather and
synthetics is done by felting method.

TYPES OF FABRICS
Types of fabric to include cotton, denim, silk, linen, polyester, nylon, viscose, flannel and wool

FABRIC FINISH
This is the process of converting the woven or knitted cloth into a usable material and more
specifically the process performed after dyeing the yarns or fabric to improve the look (visual),
performance or touch feel of the finished textile or clothing.
It also entails treating the yarns or fabric once it has been constructed and dyed. Fabric finishing
improvesthe textilebeyond its functionality and natural state. So fabric finishes are very vital to
the textile industry since theyplay a very important role on textile products chemical and
physical properties.

APPLICATION OF FABRIC FINISHES

Finishes are applied to the fabric in order to improve its appearance, feel or influence or change
the behavior of the fibre properties.

Classes of finishes to include aesthetic and functional

Examples of aesthetic finish to include permanent sheen, coloration and decoration
Aesthetic Decorations to include embroidery, beadwork, sequins, nap, suede, motifs and
glitters
Examples of functional finishes to include crease resistance, shrink resistance, water
repellency, water proof and flame resistance

CARRYING OUT FABRIC TESTS

Fabric testing is an important segment of the textile industry. We can easily detect the faults of
machinery and materials during test of textiles. Fabric testing methods are designs as standard
testing procedures with a purpose to help the textile industry and apparel industry monitor
quality.
The fabric testing methods allow clothing manufacturers to follow uniformed test procedures
to evaluate fabric, texture, and apparel in a consistent manner.

Methods of testing fabrics to include visual inspection, burning test, solubility and microscopy

Some of the common market terms of the fabric used in Garment Industry
2x2 Fabric in which two fold yarn is used in
both directions.
2x1 Fabric having two fold yarn in one
direction and single yarn in other
 direction.
Brocade Rich heavy fabrics woven on jacquard
looms having floral or figured patterns
emphasized by contrasting surfaces or
colors.
Cambric A light weight closely woven plain
weave fabric usually with a stiff finish for
giving weight and appearance.
Canvas Heavy durable cotton fabric made from
coarse, hard twisted yarns.
Chiffon A transparent sheer fabric of plain
weave. Yarns used are highly twisted.
Usually has a soft finish.
China Silk A very soft, extremely light weight silk
made in a plain weave. Used mainly for
linings. Irregularities of threads, caused
by extreme lightness and softness of
china silk are the characteristics of the
fabric.
Corduroy A ribbed pile fabric with a high, soft
luster. Made with extra warp or weft
threads. During weaving, the extra filling
yarns form loops or floats over the
ground threads. After weaving, the loop
threads are cut. Threads are then
brushed forming a pile.
Crepe Wide range of fabrics come under this
name like crepe de chine, crepe
charmeuse, crepe-back satin etc., they
have pebbly texture and made with high
twist yarn.
Denim Traditionally a 3/1 warp – faced twill
fabric made from yarn-dyed warp and
undyed weft yarn.
Drill A twill fabric of similar construction to
denim but usually piece dyed.

PREPARED BY VERONICA NEBA

NG’AMBI