ANSWER SCRIPT FOR TEXTILES FOURTH SEMESTER

Q. I

1. stages of dyeing: fibre stage, yarn stage, piece or fabric stage, product stage.

2. properties of cotton and rayon

S. No. Cotton Rayon

1. Natural Manmade / cellulose regenerated
2. Bean shaped cross section Serrated
3. Convoluted longitudinal structure Rod with striations
4. Density 1.54 g/cubic cm 1.48 g/cubic cm
5. Tenacity 3.5-4 g/d 2.4-3 g/d
6. Staple Staple or filament
7. Dull Shiny
8. Good dimensional stability Poor dimensional stability

3. steps of testing the colour fastness of dyed and printed goods: Colour fastness is a
measure of two different properties of a textile, the degree to which it changes colour when
subjected to a particular treatment or environment, and the tendency for the textile to cause
staining of other fabrics with which it comes into contact.

a) colorfastness to laundry
b) colorfastness to crocking
c) colorfastness to sunlight
d) colorfastness to rubbing
e) colorfastness to perspiration

Q. II

1. Winch dyeing: is a process for dyeing a loose rope of fabric without tension. A dyeing
machine consisting essentially of a dye vessel fitted with a driven winch (usually above
the liquor level) which rotates and draws a length of fabric, normally joined end to end,
through the liquor. Winch dyeing machines a series of fabric ropes of equal length are
immersed in the dye bath but part of each rope is taken over two reels or the winch itself.
The rope of fabric is circulated through the dye bath being hauled up and over the winch
throughout the course of the dyeing
operation. Dyestuff and auxiliaries
may be dosed manually or
automatically in accordance with the
recipe method.

2. Resist diff from discharge: Resist

dyeing, in which a wax or other
substance is printed onto fabric which
is subsequently dyed. The waxed areas
do not accept the dye, leaving
uncoloured patterns against a coloured
ground. In this technique, a resist paste is imprinted on the fabric and then it is dyed. The
dye affects only those parts that are not covered by the resist paste. After dyeing, the
resist paste is removed leaving a pattern on a dark background.

Discharge printing, in which a bleaching agent is printed onto previously dyed fabrics to
remove some or all of the colour. In this approach, the fabric is dyed in piece and then it
is printed with a chemical that destroys the colour in the designed areas. Sometimes, the
base colour is removed and another colour is printed in its place. The printed fabric is
steamed and then thoroughly washed. This approach is on decline these days.

3. Pick glass is a calibrated magnifying glass used to count warp and filling threads in a
square inch of fabric. Hence helps in knowing the density of the fabric, thickness of the
yarns.

4. Aesthetic finishes: Aesthetic Finishes modify the appearance and /or hand or drape of
the fabrics.
a. Brightening finishes can be either durable or non-durable. They augment the
clarity or brightness of the colors in a textile making it look crisp and new for a
length of time.
b. Calendering finishes are applied and pressed into the textile with a calendering
machine: a heavy cylinder roller that applies heat and pressure. Starches, glazes or
 resins can be forced deeper into the textile surface by calendering, and when the
roller is engraved specialty textural effects such as Palmer or moiré finishes are
achieved. Calendered finishes can be durable or non-durable.
c. Ciré (chintz) finishes are calendered finishes that use a glaze, usually in the form
of a resin, that is applied then pressed into the fabric. The finish may be durable if
dry cleaned; but non-durable if washed or wet cleaned.
d. Delustering finishes, when done to yarns or finished fabrics, takes away the
shininess of the textile. Sometimes a high luster in textiles is considered a cheaper
look, so a low-luster finish will enhance the richness of a particular fabric or
carpeting.
e. Durable press calendering is the application of resins to a textile that is stretched
tight then cured at a very high temperature in order to make it more wrinkle-
resistant and to retain its shape. Durable press also is used in the calendering
process to add a greater degree of permanence to the embossing. Durable press is
a flat curing process.
f. Embossed finishes involve an engraved or bas-relief (raised) calender roller that
presses a three-dimensional pattern into a textile. If the fabric has a pile, such as a
velvet or velour, the embossing permanently presses it down to create the
embossed effect.
g. Etch printing or burn-out finishes print a design into a fabric such as a
polyester/cotton with an acid compound that burns or etches (dissolves) the
cellulosic fiber to reveal a sheer pattern.
h. Flocked finishes are the adherence of tiny fibers or fine particles to create a pile
effect on a fabric through one of two methods:
a) Adhesive is applied to the surface of the fabric, which may be in a design or
pattern. The fibers are added with the excess flocked fibers vacuumed off. The
adhesive is cured and the fabric brushed and cleaned.
b) Electrostatic flocking uses adhesive on the ground cloth, which is then passed
through a high-voltage field that charges the fibers causing them to be
attracted to the adhesive.
Flocked fabrics can be embossed and printed. Generally, the finish is durable.
 i. French wax finishes are a ciré finish in which resins are applied then calendered.
A French wax is the shiniest or highest gloss finish. It is durable when dry
cleaned.
j. Friction calendering is a means of producing a glazed surface with or without
the application of starches or resins.
k. Moiré finishes are created through an embossing method in which the
calendering roller is engraved or raised into a watermark design and applied to
faille fabric (fine cross-wise or weft ribs). The moiré look also can be achieved by
(pigment) printing and jacquared weaves.
l. Napped finishes are created by brushing-up the fabric fibers to loosen and create
a fuzzy finish or depth similar to a short pile.
m. Panné finishes are created through an embossing method in which a velvet,
ribbed velour, or other pile textile is pressed down in one direction.
n. Plisse finishes are the application of a caustic acid that causes the yarns to pucker.
The plissé pattern is typically a plaid or all-over wrinkle.
o. Resin finishes are the result of a resin -- a natural or synthetic clear, translucent
substance -- that when applied to a textile and calendered becomes a lustrous
glaze or the basis for waterproofing or soil repellence.
p. Schreiner calendering involves tiny engraved lines on the calender, which
produce an increased luster to a textile without the application of resins or
starches.
5. Union Dyeing: is dyeing a fabric made of two or more fibres to one solid colour.

Cross dyeing: is a special method of dyeing fibre blends in which each fibre type s dyed
a different colour. A method of coloring fabrics made from more than one kind of fiber,
for example, a wool and cotton blend. Each fiber in a fabric designed for cross-dyeing
takes a specific dye in a different color or in variations of a color. A fabric that is
crossdyed is more than one color. Cross-dyeing is often used to create heather effects
(soft, misty colorings), but strongly patterned fabrics can also be achieved, depending on
the fibers used in the fabric.
 Tone to tone dyeing: in this one fibre is dyed a deeper shade than the other fibre of the
same fabric.

Q.III

1. Natural Dyes: are a dye class produced by plants and other natural sources used
primarily with natural fibres. Eg. Tea, turmeric, onion, pomegranate, heena,
marigold, etc.
2. Enzyme wash: is a fabric finish that uses cellulose enzyme to remove surface
fuzz from cellulosic fabrics.
3. Dye solution: Dye is an organic compound which gives colour to the fibres by
making bonds with them. This dye is added to water to make a medium for colour
application. This medium is called dye solution.
4. Water repellent finishes: are those finished which helps the fabric in resisting
wetting, but if the water strikes with enough force, it will penetrate the fabric.
5. Dobby weave: are made on a loom with a dobby attachment to the basic loom.
Maximum of 32 harnesses can be used to create a design on a dobby loom. Small
geometrical designs are created. Eg. Waffle cloth, Madras gingham.
6. Schreinerizing: is a type of aesthetic finish which gives lusture to the fabric. It is
a form of calendaring in which hundreds of fine lines are etched diagonally on the
metal rollers.
7. Yarn twist: is the spiral arrangement of the fibres around the yarn’s axis, is
produced by rotating one end of a fibre strand while holding the other end
stationary. Twist binds the fibres together and contributes strength to the spun
yarn. Twist is specified by the number of turns per unit length.
8. Water proofing finishes: make the fabric totally resistant to fabric. These are the
coatings which are applied on the fabrics. The water will not penetrate the fabric
regardless of the amount of time it is n contact wit the fabric or the force with
which it hits the fabric.
9. Pigment printing: is done using pigment dye which is insoluble and must be
attached to the fibre with the use of a binding agent. Usually block printing is
done by pigment dyes.
10. Grading of wool: The classification of fleeces according to grade and length.
11. Starch: is a sizing material which is added to the fabric to increase weight or add
body to the fabric.
3. Antibacterial:

 These are the finishes which inhibit the growth of bacteria and other odour causing
germs, prevent decay and damage from perspiration, control the spread of disease and
reduce the risk of infection following injury.
 Used in clothing that comes in contact with the skin, shoe lining, hospital linens and
contract carpeting
 Chemicals used are surface reactants like- quaternary ammonium or silicone compounds,
diphenyl ether, chitosan (a natural polymer) or sliver based compounds.

4. direct dye:

 Commercially significant dye class.

 Has complete colour range
 Majorly used on cellulosic fibres and occasionally to protein & polyamids.
 Colourfastness to light is good but to washfastness is poor.
 Dyes are water soluble.
 Easy to apply as no special equipment required.
 Most inexpensive of all.
 No chemical reaction b/w fibre & dye.

Reactive dye:

 Combines chemically with fibre.

 Used on cellulosic fibres, wool, silk & nylon.
 Bright shades
 Good light and wash fastness.
 Sensitive to chlorine bleach.

III. 1. Manufacturing of polyester yarn:

Reaction b/w ethylene glycol and terepthalalic acid to give polyester. Then melt spinning
through spinneret. Cold air chamber (coagulation chamber). Stretching. Washing and chemical
treatments. Drying. Winding up.
The whole process to be explained in detail.

2. Traditional printing styles: block, screen, batik, tie&dye/ikat, discharge, stencil. All of them to
be explained in detail with the help of diagrams.

3. different methods of dyeing: batch, winch, jig, pad, package, jet, combination, paddle,
tumblers, rotary drums. All of them to be explained in detail with the help of diagrams.