Chapter 1 - Shell Preparation

This Build Manual is to be used as a guide only.

Please ensure as you build this car all fixings are tightened and torqued as
required.

Recommended Tools

In addition to normal workshop tools some metal working tools will be required
to carry out the shell preparation.

• MIG welder
• Angle grinder
• Hand drill
• Various drill bits
• Spot weld drill bit
• Step drill
• Centre drill
• 19mm hole saw
• 22mm hole saw
• 25mm hole saw
• 30mm hole saw
• 78mm hole saw
• Countersink drill bit
• Allen Keys
• Spanners
• Sockets
• Centre punch
• Rivet gun
• Tin snips
• Pliers
• Hacksaw
• Mallet
• Hammer
• Pipe cutter
• Torque wrench capable of 120Nm
• Soldering iron
• 4 Pin socket
• Spring compressor
• Tape Measure
• Scraper
Recommended Consumables

You will require a various amount of certain consumables for the build.
If you require any information about consumables, or where to attain them
contact M-Sport.

• Sikaflex / Silicone sealant

• Washers M3 – M12
• Rivets 3mm – 5mm
• Plain nuts M4 – M10
• Nyloc nuts M4 – M10
• Silver tape
• Various cable ties
• Cable tie fittings
• Heat shrink
• Electricians tape
• Masking tape
• Degreaser
• Lockwire
• Heat shielding
• Hex head bolts M5 – M10
• Button head bolts M5 – M10
• Plate 1mm, 1.2mm and 3mm thick (for shell and seat mounts)
• Threadlock (Loctite 648 steering rack bush)
(Loctite 243 knuckle joints)
1.1 Bolt-In Rollcage

Overview

The Fiesta Group N uses a comprehensive (FIA/RACMSA Compatible) bolt-in

rollcage. However some welding is required to install the shell reinforcing
plates and some additional cage bars. Before the rollcage can be fitted the car
should be stripped down to a bare shell.

Parts

1 x Main Hoop
1 x Seat Belt Bar
2 x Main Hoop Braces
2 x Front Legs
2 x Door Bars
1 x Windscreen Bar
1 x Roof Cross
2 x A Pillar Mount
2 x Front Foot Reinforcing Plates
2 x Main Hoop Reinforcing Plates
2 x Rear Feet Reinforcing Plates
16 x Joint Sleeves (+ Bolts & Nyloc Nuts)
18 x M10 x 30 Cap Head Bolts
8 x M8 x 20 Dome Head Bolts
2 x M10 x 45 Cap Head Bolts
8 x M10 Nyloc Nuts
8 x M8 Nyloc Nuts
4 x M10 Top Hats (A & B Pillars)
12 x M10 Washers
8 x M8 Washers
8 x M10 Nuts
2 x B Pillar Spacers

Rollcage Assembly
1 Main Hoop
2 Left Front Leg
3 Right Front Leg
4 Left Door Bar
5 Right Door Bar
6 Screen Bar
7 Roof Cross
8 Left Front
Reinforcing Plate
9 Right Front
Reinforcing Plate
10 Rear Left
Reinforcing Plate
11 Rear Right
Reinforcing Plate

Once the interior has been removed from the she

Once the interior has been removed from the she
Once the interior has been removed from the shell it is recommended that all
sound deadening material is stripped from the inside and the under seal
removed. This can be done by carefully warming up the material with a heat
gun before using a good sharp scraper. Any material left can be removed
using a wheel on a hand drill. Particular care should be taken when removing
the material from the roof skin so not to damage the surface.

Stripped Shell - Passenger Compartment

Stripped Shell – Main Hoop Mounting Area

 Main Hoop in Position

Place the main hoop into the car with strengthening plates under the main
hoop feet. Push the main hoop back until the rear feet sit onto the inner wheel
arches.

If a top hat was required in the B pillar, weld round to secure in place.
Attach the main hoop upper mounting points to the B pillar seat belt locations.
In some cases the mounting points will line up with the standard insert in the
shell. However due to variations in shell specification it may be necessary to
weld in a top hat and insert 15mm thick, (20mm thick if not top hat is welded
in place) spacers on each side to line up with the main hoop mounting points.

90mm

35mm

Aluminium Spacer Detail

15mm if top
hat used 10mm
20mm if not.

25mm
 Front Legs and Door Bars

Assemble the front legs and door bars onto the main hoop inside the car and
place the reinforcing plates under the front feet. Insert the windscreen bar and
roof cross. Locate each joint using a sleeve and pull all the sections tightly
together in order to minimize the size of any joint gaps. This can be done
using ratchet straps.

Centralise the sleeves over the joints by marking 72.5mm from the joint centre
onto the cage and sliding the sleeve back to this mark. It is very important that
the bolts are orientated such that the treaded ends are least likely to make
contact with the crew. When drilling the holes it is recommended that one side
is drilled first and a bolt placed though to maintain alignment while the second
hole is drilled from the other side. Mark the centres of all the hole locations so
that they can be drilled later when the cage is removed.
Align the holes in the main hoop feet and the mounting plates. Mark the
locations of the holes onto the shell.

Mark the locations of the holes for the back feet onto the rear inner wheel
arches.
Position the front feet so that they are against the sills and aligned with the
mounting plates.

Tack weld the front reinforcing plates into position.

Now all the locations for boltholes should be marked onto the shell and the
cage can be disassembled from inside the car.
Drill the holes for the main hoop mounting feet and use a step drill to enlarge
them enough to allow clearance for the M10 nuts.

Weld the M10 nuts to the reverse of the two main hoop mounting plates
These should now fit into position through the enlarged holes such that the
now captive M10 nuts can be sunk into the shells section.
Drill the holes for the rear inner wheel arch mounting feet using a 8.5mm drill
bit.

Drill the holes in the shell for the front mounting feet using the tack welded
front plates as a template.
 Weld the two front reinforcing plates into position.

Reassemble the cage into the shell and bolt into position.
Place the rear inner arch reinforcing plates 110mm X 110mm X 3mm thick
(not legally required and not part of kit however m-sport preference to install
on factory cars) centrally under the rear feet and using the holes in the shell
as a template drill up from inside the wheel arch through the plates.
Pull the cage down hard against the floor to minimize the size of any gaps
around the mounting plates. This can be done using a ratchet strap.

Weld the main hoop reinforcing plates to the shell.

Weld the corner triangulation section into position.

 43mm

112mm

Using the A Pillar mounting plate as a template dress down a flat section onto
the A pillar and drill a hole for the top hat.

Weld the top hat into position.

Bolt the A pillar triangulation plate to the top hat and orientate the plate
perpendicular to role cage front leg.

Weld the A pillar triangulation plates onto the front legs of the cage. The plate
must be welded to the front legs on the inboard side as well as the outboard
side. In order to do this with the windscreen fitted the front legs may have to
be removed from the shell.
 Finished Cage Installation

Tidy up and remove any sharp edges and ensure all bolts are correctly
tightened.
M10 tightened to 53Nm.
M8 Sleeve bolts tightened to 15Nm.
1.2 Welded Seat Rail Mounting

Welded Seat Rail Mounting Kit

1 X Drivers Front Seat Rail

1 X Drivers Rear Seat Rail
1 X Co-drivers Front Seat Rail
1 X Co-drivers Rear Seat Rail
8 X Seat Rail End Mounting Plates
Each seat rail supplied in the kit is a specific length to fit the shell in a position
that we believe will be suitable for the majority of crews, however some
profiling and bending of the seat rail end mounting plates will be required. It is
therefore recommended that the seating positions are mocked up to check
they are suitable for the intended crew.

Drivers Seat Rail Locations

1
2

60mm
60mm

318mm
1 = Tunnel Side Belt Mount
2 = Sill Side Belt Mount

123mm
Co-Drivers Side Seat Rail and Belt Mount Locations. (LHD)

2
60mm 1
50mm

318mm

1 = Tunnel Side Belt Mount

2 = Sill Side Belt Mount

197mm

Original Box Section Front Mount

On the drivers and co-drivers side remove the original seat-mounting towers
from each side of the exhaust tunnel. This can be done using a spot weld drill
bit to remove the welds.
The rectangular holes in the inner sills will coincide with the locations of the
seat rails. Therefore blanking plates must be cut out to fit them 90mm X
40mm X 1.2mm thick.

The blanking plates should be welded into the hole such that they are flush
with the inner sill surface, use magnets to hold plate in place until tacked in.
Shape all the mounting plates and the ends of the seat rails to fit into position.
A jig can be made up to maintain the correct orientation or alternatively the
seat side mount brackets can be used.

Tack weld the plates to shell and the seat rails to the plates then check all the
measurements and make any adjustments.
Once a satisfactory fit of all the seat rails has been achieved weld round all 4
sides of each mounting plate and all the way round both ends of each seat
rail.

The original seat mounting towers that were previously removed must now be
refitted.
On the co-drivers side the tower must be cut along the centre line of the rear
seat rail and a half circle cut into each half to allow clearance for the new seat
rail to pass through.

Reconstruct the two halves of the tower around the seat rail. Puddle weld the
tower to the car in the spot weld locations and weld the two halves to each
other and the seat rail.
On the drivers side cut a slot into the original seat tower and refit using puddle
welds in the spot weld locations.

It is very important that the original seat mounting towers are refitted to the
shell in order to comply with “Group N” regulations.
1.3 Seatbelt Mounts

4 X Tunnel Boss

The harness mounting points for the waist band of the belt must be installed in
the correct locations in the inner sills and the sides of the exhaust tunnel,
locations of bosses are shown on weld in seat rail chapter.

The seat belt mounts on the sill side should be installed onto the inside of the
inner sill.

Drill a Ø.12.5mm clearance hole for seat belt eye in the correct location with 3
holes around the centre hole through which to puddle weld. Feed a length of
welding wire into the sill through the centre hole drilled at point B and at out
point A. Feed the seat belt mount onto the wire at point A and fold the ends of
the wire such that the mount cannot come off. Pull the wire through the hole at
point B until the seat belt mount is positioned on the back of the inner sill.
Puddle weld through the 3 holes onto the seat belt mounting.
1.4 Sump Guard

Sump Guard Kit

1 X Sump Guard
1 X Sump Guard Brace Bar
2 X Ø25mm mounting Tube
6 X Top Hats
6 X M8 X 30mm Cap Head Bolts
6 X M8 Serrated Washer
6 X M8 Flat Washer
2 X M10 X 35mm Hex Head Bolt
2 X M10 X 30mm Hex Head Bolt
4 X M10 Serrated Washer
4 X M10 Flat Washer
 Sump Guard Rear Mounting Locations

650mm

The rear sump guard mounting tubes are inserted into the locations shown
above.
 Mounting Hole Enlarged

The holes must be enlarged to 25mm and be 650mm between centres. First
drill through the centre of the existing outer hole up into in the cockpit floor
with a 10mm bit to allow clearance for the tip of step drill. Use a step drill to
enlarge the existing outer hole up to 25mm. Insert a 25mm hole saw and cut a
25mm hole right through into the cockpit.

Insert the mounting tubes through the 25mm holes in shell so that 15mm is
left protruding.
Weld around the joints between the tubes and the shell on the outside.

Sump Guard Tube Protruding into Cockpit

Weld the other end of the mounting tubes to the cockpit floor.
 Cut off the excess tube from inside the car flush with the top of the weld.

.
 Chassis Leg Drilling Positions

265mm
265mm
90mm

30mm

Bolt the sump guard to its sub frame with the bolts in the centre of the slots
and bolt the guard assembly to rear mounting tubes. Mark the location of the
sub frame mounting holes onto the chassis legs.

Drill the holes for the sump guard sub frame in both chassis legs.
Insert top hats and weld into position.
1.5 Boot / Bonnet Pins

Boot / Bonnet Pin Kit

4 X Pins
4 X Pin Clasp
8 X Pin Nuts
8 X Washers
12 X Pop Rivets

2 X Boot Pin Bushes (Optional)

Boot Pins

Using a centre drill, drill in the centre of the tailgate bump stop mound then
open the hole to Ø11.5mm (if no boot pin bushes are used). Spin a nut onto
the pin leaving the pin sticking out of the nut 60mm then screw into the bush
and lock the pin in position using the locking nut.
If using boot pin bushes use a Ø22mm drill to open the hole to allow the boot
pin bush to slide through.

On the inside of the boot, drill a Ø22mm hole using measurements below to allow
the boot pin bush to slide through. Leave 3mm of bush protruding out of the bump
stop mound then weld around outside and inside the boot. Then grind excess off
inside, level with the top of the weld.

23mm

25mm
Tailgate

Spin a nut onto the pin leaving the pin sticking out of the nut 60mm then screw
into the bush and lock the pin in position using the nut. Use a touch of paint on
the end of the pin and gently lower the tailgate onto the pin. The wet paint will
leave a small witness mark on the inside of the tailgate, which is the position to
drill a Ø6mm hole through, then use the hole for position and cut a slot 18mm X
8mm to accommodate the pin. Position clasp over slot and mark fixing positions,
drill Ø3mm holes in fixing positions and fasten down using 3 pop rivets.
Bonnet pins

Bonnet pins are mounted on the slam panel, Use the lower rubber bump stop
mounting position. Drill the holes out to Ø12mm. Spin the nut up the pin to
achieve desired length add washer then insert into 12mm hole, lock in position
with another washer and nut.

Bonnet

Using a Ø30mm hole saw cut a hole in the inner skin of the bonnet at the
lower bump stop seat as shown below, in doing this the pilot drill of the hole
saw should penetrate the outer skin of the bonnet. Cut a slot to suit the top of
the bonnet pin 18mm X 8mm.
Bonnet Pin Clasp

Position clasp over slot and mark fixing positions, drill Ø3mm holes in fixing positions
through bonnet external skin and fasten down using 3 pop rivets.
1.6 Blanking Plates

There are a number of holes in floorpan that need to filled using blanking
plates.

Welded Blanking Plates

100mm

43mm

Cut some 1mm thick plate to size and hold in position using magnets while
they are welded round.

Ground Welds

Grind down the welds so that they are smooth and flush with surface.
1.7 Weld In Rollcage

The weld in rollcage is a supply only part. You will receive the rollcage and
must be fitted by your nationally recognised and authorised supplier / person.
You must ensure that the car is stripped out and free of any paint in the areas
which will be welded. Underseal and sound deadening material must also be
removed before the rollcage can be fitted.
Any questions about weld in rollcages please contact M-sport or your National
organiser.