D.

Vasanth Kumar1,*,
G. Madhan Mohan2,
Lean Tool Implementation in the Garment
K.M. Mohanasundaram3 Industry
DOI: 10.5604/01.3001.0012.9982
1
Dr N.G.P Institute of Technology, Abstract
Department of Mechanical Engineering, Garment Manufacturing is one of the oldest in the world, compromising a high number of
Coimbatore, India critical operations. The main issues in the garment industry are the lead time, production
* e-mail: vasanthmech09@gmail.com rate, very poor line balancing and fabric wastes. Productivity improvement is carried out
2
P.S.G College of Technology, by implementing the various lean tools in the industry, such as 5S, Value Stream Mapping
Department of Production Engineering, (VSM) and line balancing in the sewing section. After the implementation of lean tools in
Coimbatore, India the garment industry, the outcomes observed are a reduction in work-in-progress inventory,
increases in the production process and increased line efficiency. Similarly the before and
3
SVS College of Engineering, after implementation of 5S, which shows space utilisation in the sewing section, is increased.
Coimbatore, India In this research, an implementation study was conducted in only one organisation. Hence the
results extracted by the conduct of this implementation study are achievable and adaptable
in similar organisations.

Key words: lean tools, value stream mapping, 5S, line balancing.

Introduction implementation is essential to adapt it An ideal workstation can be effectively

Global competition in the garment sectors
makes garment manufacturing a most
sensitive issue [1]. The trend which
makes the garment industries look for
change in the manufacturing paradigm is
the fluctuating demand in market condi-
tions. Thus lean manufacturing emerged
as a paradigm to make the industry more
competitive by eliminating wastes [2]. In
lean manufacturing, which encompasses
various tools and techniques to enhance
performances, some of the tools are 5S,
Value stream mapping (VSM) and line
balancing [3]. The production process in
the garment industry involves four main
processes, namely designing/pattern gen-
eration, cutting, sewing and packing.
The most important and critical factor in
the garment industry is the sewing sec-
tion, which involves a greater number
of operations [4]. This case study high-
lights the various wastes in the garment
industry, such as inventory, lead time
and quality defects, which are reduced
to improve productivity. Thus lean tools
such as VSM, 5S and line balancing
help in visualising the wastes occurring
in an organisation and possibilities for
eliminating/reducing them. The applica-
tion of VSM initially attempts to reduce
waste and non-value activities, and find
possible improvements in the lead time,
production time and inventory level [5].
Based on the existing study in the organ-
isation, a current state map is generated.
Upon analysis of the current state map
with TAKT time calculation, a future
state map is proposed with the possible
improvements, and an attempt is made on
the production line to balance the work
at each station. The understanding of this
in similar garment industries to identify
improvements in small and middle scale
industries.
The garment sector production process is
always a short life cycle with a number
of sub-processes [6]. The fast change in
the fashion and customer-focused market
creates the values in apparel manufactur-
ing [7]. The garment industry is exposed
to an inconsistent supply of raw materials
in the production process. Resource allo-
cation is a major process in any organisa-
tion, which requires continuous analysis
of internal and external factors due to the
inherent complexity [8]. Lean manufac-
turing focuses on waste reduction and
productivity improvement through var-
ious lean tools, value stream mapping,
line balancing and work standardisation
[9]. The combination of various lean
tools, such as 5S, line balancing, stand-
ardised work and value stream mapping,
results in productivity improvement in
both labour intensivity and equipment
flexibility [10]. Successful implemen-
tation of the lean manufacturing tool in
small and medium scale industries leads
to increases in the workforce, machines
and methods of the manufacturing pro-
cess [11]. Value stream mapping is a key
performance indicator that measures the
performance of a manufacturing process
[12]. Lean manufacturing, which reduces
the flow quality duration, increases the
operating speed and improves delivery
performances [13]. Line balancing is
a tool which enhances productivity and
improves the efficiency of the produc-
tion process, while Poka-Yoke is one of
the lean manufacturing tools which can
eliminate waste by pool proofing [14].
utilised by using line balancing without
an uninterrupted flow in the process [15].
An empirical study in the garment indus-
try gave a more in-depth validation of the
ideas proposed [16]. Lean manufacturing
tools can enhance productivity by a re-
duction in the lead time of the process
through eliminating non-value added
activities [17]. Productivity is an impor-
tant parameter for any manufacturing in-
dustry, comprising value added activities
and non-value added activities [18]. 5S
is a basic lean manufacturing tool which
provides a pathway for other lean tools to
implement in any organisation [19].
Selection of a suitable manufacturing
organisation for study
Study of existing process
• Develop current state map
• Analyse current state map
• Derive proposal for future state map
Construction of future state map
Lean tool implementation
• 5S implementation
• Line balancing in sewing section
Empirical analysis based on study
Figure 1. Research methodology.

Kumar DV, Mohan GM, Mohanasundaram KM. Lean Tool Implementation in the Garment Industry. 19
FIBRES & TEXTILES in Eastern Europe 2019; 27, 2(134): 19-23. DOI: 10.5604/01.3001.0012.9982
 Current state.igx

20
SEWING
SECTION

Figure 2. Current state map.

Firs t
Rib piping Sec ond Label Sleev e hem Sleev e Side seam
Shoulder Nec k Binding Bottom hem Peak
ov erloc k Shoulder attach attach lower attachment ov erloc k
attach

1 1
Defect = 5% 1 Defect = 1% 100 pcs 1 100 pcs 1 100 pcs 1 1 1 100 pcs
1 1 100 pcs 100 pcs 100 pcs
100 pcs 100 pcs 30 minutes 20 minutes 30 minutes 60 minutes Total C/T = 200 seconds Total C/T = 200 seconds
Total C/T = 200 seconds Total C/T = 130 seconds Total C/T = 180 seconds Total C/T = 125 seconds Total C/T = 240 seconds Total C/T = 350 seconds
Total C/T = 108 seconds 10 minutes 60 minutes Value Add: 180 seconds 60 minutes Value Add: 175 seconds
Total C/T = 68 seconds 2 minutes 20 minutes
Value Add: 188 seconds Value Add: 120 seconds Value Add: 165 seconds Value Add: 110 seconds Value Add: 225 seconds Value Add: 300 seconds
Value Add: 60 seconds Value Add: 100 seconds NVA = 20 seconds NVA = 25 seconds
NVA = 12 seconds NVA = 10 seconds NVA = 15 seconds NVA = 1 seconds NVA = 15 seconds NVA = 50 seconds
NVA = 8 seconds NVA = 8 seconds Defect = 1% Defect = 0%
Defect = 3% Defect = 1% Defect = 1% Defect = 1% Defect = 1% Defect = 4%
Defect = 3% Defect = 3% C/O = 3 mins. C/O = 2 mins.
C/O = 20 secs. C/O = 20 secs. C/O = 1 mins. C/O = 2 mins. C/O = 1 mins. C/O = 3 mins.
C/O = 30 secs. C/O = 20 secs. Uptime = 99% Uptime = 99%
Uptime = 99% Uptime = 99% Uptime = 99% Uptime = 99% Uptime = 99% Uptime = 99%
Uptime = 99% Uptime = 99% Availability: 99% Availability: 99%
Availability: 99% Availability: 99% Availability: 99% Availability: 99% Availability: 99% Availability: 99%
Availability: 99% Availability: 99%

Future state.igx
Lead Time = 322 minutes
1.13 minutes 2 3.33 minutes 20 1.8 minutes 30 2.17 minutes 20 3 minutes 30 2.08 minutes 10 4 minutes 60 5.83 minutes 60 3.33 minutes 60 3.33 minutes
(1 minutes) minutes (3.13 minutes) minutes (1.67 minutes) minutes (2 minutes) minutes (2.75 minutes) minutes (1.83 minutes) minutes (3.75 minutes) minutes (5 minutes) minutes (3 minutes) minutes (2.92 minutes) VA / T = 27.1 minutes
In-plant Time = 322 minutes
Transport Time = 0 seconds

SEWING
SECTION

Figure 3. Future state map.

5S INSPECTION 5S 5S 5S 5S
INSPECTION INSPECTION INSPECTION
5S INSPECTION
Firs t
Rib piping Sec ond Label Sleev e hem Sleev e Side seam
Shoulder Nec k Binding Bottom hem Peak
ov erloc k Shoulder attach attach lower attachment ov erloc k
attach

3 3
Defect = 5% 3 Defect = 1% 10 pcs 2 10 pcs 3 100 pcs 2 4 5 100 pcs
1 2 100 pcs 100 pcs 100 pcs
10 pcs 50 pcs 10 minutes 5 minutes 30 minutes 30 minutes Total C/T = 68 seconds Total C/T = 67 seconds
Total C/T = 66 seconds Total C/T = 60 seconds Total C/T = 58 seconds Total C/T = 62 seconds Total C/T = 59 seconds Total C/T = 70 seconds
Total C/T = 52 seconds 10 minutes 30 minutes Value Add: 56 seconds 30 minutes Value Add: 59 seconds
Total C/T = 66 seconds 2 minutes 5 minutes
Value Add: 63 seconds Value Add: 55 seconds Value Add: 53 seconds Value Add: 58 seconds Value Add: 52 seconds Value Add: 61 seconds
Value Add: 64 seconds Value Add: 50 seconds NVA = 12 seconds NVA = 8 seconds
NVA = 3 seconds NVA = 5 seconds NVA = 5 seconds NVA = 4 seconds NVA = 7 seconds NVA = 9 seconds
NVA = 2 seconds NVA = 2 seconds Defect = 1% Defect = 0%
Defect = 3% Defect = 1% Defect = 1% Defect = 1% Defect = 1% Defect = 4%
Defect = 3% Defect = 3% C/O = 3 mins. C/O = 2 mins.
C/O = 20 secs. C/O = 20 secs. C/O = 1 mins. C/O = 2 mins. C/O = 1 mins. C/O = 3 mins.
C/O = 30 secs. C/O = 20 secs. Uptime = 99% Uptime = 99%
Uptime = 99% Uptime = 99% Uptime = 99% Uptime = 99% Uptime = 99% Uptime = 99%
Uptime = 99% Availability: 99% Availability: 99%
Uptime = 99% Availability: 99%
Availability: 99% Availability: 99% Availability: 99% Availability: 99% Availability: 99%
Availability: 99%
Availability: 99%

Lead Time = 162 minutes

1.1 minutes 2 1.1 minutes 5 52 seconds 10 60 seconds 5 58 seconds 30 1.03 minutes 10 59 seconds 30 1.17 minutes 30 1.13 minutes 30 1.12 minutes
(64 seconds) minutes (63 seconds) minutes (50 seconds) minutes (55 seconds) minutes (53 seconds) minutes (58 seconds) minutes (52 seconds) minutes (61 seconds) minutes (56 seconds) minutes (59 seconds) VA / T = 571 seconds
In-plant Time = 162 minutes
Transport Time = 0 seconds

FIBRES & TEXTILES in Eastern Europe 2019, Vol. 27, 2(134)

 Research methodology Table 1. Reduction in each category.

The methodology followed during this Production cycle Non-value added

Inventory, min
time, sec time, sec
research project is shown in Figure 1. Time for operations
Current Future Current Future Current Future
Summarising a review of suitable organ- state state state state state state
isations for implementing the various One side shoulder attach 68 66 8 2 2 2
lean tools was undertaken to carry out
Rib piping overlock 200 66 12 3 20 5
the study. After identifying the organisa-
Second shoulder attach 108 52 8 2 30 10
tion, the existing products and processes
Neck binding 130 60 10 5 20 5
preformed in the organisation for man-
Neck binding finish (label) 180 58 15 5 30 30
ufacturing the products were classified.
Sleeve hem lower 125 62 15 4 10 10
A current state map was developed for
Sleeve attachment 240 59 15 7 60 60
formulated and further improvements
Side seem overlock 350 70 50 9 60 60
in lean tool implementation, discussed
Bottom hem (full length) 200 68 20 12 60 60
with the executives of the organisation
to develop a future state map. After the Peak (in sleeve and rib) 200 67 25 8 60 60

development of the future state map, lean Total time 1801 628 178 57 352 302

tools such as 5S and line balancing were Percentage reduction, % 34.86 32.07 14.02

implemented in the organisation. Finally

empirical analysis was carried out with
the executives of the company on lean
tool implementation.
About the organisation
A study on lean implementation using
VSM was carried out at the ABC gar-
ment factory located in Tiruppur, India.
It is an ISO certified organisation man-
ufacturing products for men, ladies and
children. The company manufactures
normal styles, trendy styles, night-wears
and value-added styles, with accessories
made even at their customers’ choice.
The ABC garment factory was started in
the year 1999 with 10 employees. Pres-
ently it employs 300 personnel, including
management, with an annual turnover
of about four crores Indian national ru-
pees (INR). Some of the potential export
countries include European ones: Italy,
Germany, Switzerland, Hungary and
Portugal.
Selection of the product
All the dates concerning the product
were studied in terms of production vol-
ume, demand, inventory and operations
performed. A baby girl’s tee was select-
ed as the product for study. Raw materi-
als were supplied by an external vendor
and a manufacturing process for pattern
making, sewing, thread trimming and
pressing, quality checks and packing was
made to complete this product cycle.
Current state map
A current state map is developed for the
kid’s tee as shown in Figure 2. Orders
are received from the customer regularly
on a monthly basis of around 8500 piec-
es. This information is shared with the
supervisor for the allocation of personnel
and resources. An average of sixteen pro-
cesses are carried out in completing the
kid’s tees. The main processes include
marking and cutting, sewing, inspec-
tion, finishing and packing. The sewing
section is taken for analysis, in which
more critical processes are carried out.
The change over time between the pro-
cess is 10 minutes. The organisation
works on three shifts every day (each
shift of an eight-hour duration with
a thirty minute lunch break). The bundle
system of manufacturing currently I pro-
gress is followed in the garment factory
with a batch size of two hundred pieces.
The available production time is calcu-
lated as follows:
Available time = Total production time –
Planned down time
Available time = (60 × 8 × 3) – (30 × 3)
= 1350 Minutes
Uptime = Actual operating time/Availa-
ble time
= (Available time – Changeover
time) × 100%/Available time
= (1350 – 10) × 100/1350
= 99.2%
Available working time per day
Takt time = future state, such as a reduction in the
Custome demond rate per day
1350
= 340
= 238 sec
The value added time for the current
process is 27 minutes for all the process
in the sewing section. The process dura-
tion of the product of the daily demand
is 322 minutes, and the idle time for the
process is 1000 minutes.
Future state map
The future state map preparation is initi-
ated with the aid of the current state map.
The gaps and possible improvements are
identified from the current state map to
propose a future state map. The differ-
ence made in the existing production cy-
cle time is 30 minutes, which is reduced
to 10 minutes, which is proposed in the
future state map, as shown in Figure 3.
The  existing inventory is reduced to
302 minutes in the future state from the
current state of 352 minutes. The lead
time for completing the process is re-
duced to 252 minutes from the current
state of 322 minutes in the future state
proposed. 5S introduced is at every stage
of the operations in the organisation.
Stage inspection is introduced, which
eliminates the final inspection, and con-
sequently the rejection of the product at
the final stage is reduced.
Results and discussion
Value stream mapping
Several improvements are identified
based on the current state map for the
future state map for implementation.
Significant changes are developed in the
production time, non- value added time
and inventory time, as shown in Table 1.
The change-over-time benefits the organ-
isation in shifting to a new product fam-
ily and helps in the delivery schedule.
The value added time gives an excess of
18 hrs to the process.
A comparison of cycle time modifica-
tions is shown in Figure 4. Based on the
possible potentials identified during the
analysis of the current state map, few ma-

FIBRES & TEXTILES in Eastern Europe 2019, Vol. 27, 2(134) 21

sewing machine,
sewing unneeded
machine, stock
unneeded between
stock workers,
between excess
workers, inventory
excess on on
inventory thethe
floor, improper
floor, flowflow
improper of of
needed equipment.
needed andand
equipment. no no
floor layout.
floor This
layout. is refined
This by by
is refined removing excess
removing inventory
excess andand
inventory introducing
introducing
a floor layout,
a floor as shown
layout, in Figure
as shown 4. 4.
in Figure

Figure 4. 5S Implementation.
Figure 4 –45S
Figure Implementation
– 5S Implementation
Table 2. Line balancing outcomes. Positional Weight (RPA) techniques are
SortSort
: All: All
useless items
useless areare
items sorted andand
sorted eliminated from
eliminated thethe
from sewing section
sewing usedfor
section smooth
for for smooth
balancing flow.
the Inthe
flow.
line in addition
Insewing
addition
Productivity variable Before line balancing After line balancing
section. The preference relationship be-
to that. the
to that. semi-finished
the
Labours per production line fabric
semi-finished is8sorted
fabric is sorted andand
Labours/line an an
order7 number
order number
Labours/line is given in the
is given
tween
cutting
ineach
the section
cutting
task
to ensure
section
and the to ensure
specific order in
Production target 44 tees/day/labour 41 tees/day/labour
proper fabric
proper identification
fabric in the
identification temporary
in the storage,
temporary created
storage, based
created which
on on
based the tasks
the are performed
processing
the processing istime
time calcu-
andand
Production capacity 350/day 352/day
lated. After the cycle time (C) is calcu-
Balancing loss 18% 12.48%
sequences of
sequences the operations
of the performed
operations in the
performed factory,
in the which
factory, whichresults in more
results in more
lated, space
the spaceavailability.
availability.
theoretical minimum number
of workstations is determined in order to
jor: changes are proposed and implement- smoothwastes satisfy the workstation cycle time:
Shine
Shine Dust, dirt,
: Dust, waste
dirt, fabrics
waste andand
fabrics otherflow.
other Inare
wastesaddition
are to that. Temporary
removed.
removed. the
ed to observe the changes made during semi-finished fabric is sorted and an or-
storage
Temporary tables
storage andand
tables floors
floors
Cycle time C = Total available period/
have been
the
have lean cleaned
been according
implementation.
cleaned to the
As a result,
according the time schedule.
der time
to the number AlltheAll
is given in
schedule. machines,
cutting sectiontools
machines, andand
tools work areas
work areas
Total areare
output cleaned
cleaned
required
production process at the inventory level to ensure proper fabric identification in = 1350/ 350
by the employee
byisthe employee
reduced at the endend
atwhich
by 14.02%, the isof the shiftshift
of the
achieved time.
the time. storage, created based on
temporary = 3.85 min/ tees
by regularising proper communications the processing time and sequences of
among the employees and the pull sys- the operations performed in the factory, Number of workstations required, N =
Order tem: and
Order All: All
itemsitemsareare
implementing placed
5S placed
in andand
the cuttingarranged
arranged in an
which results in appropriate
an
in more appropriate place
space availability. after
place aftersorting
= Sum sorting and
of task cleaning.
and time TheThe
cleaning.
time/Cycle
and sewing sections. The production pro- = 26.9/ 3.85
items
items areare arranged
arranged in such
in such a way
a waythatthat
theytheyareare based
based on onthethe degree
degree of usage
of usage in the production
in the production
cess is modified from a progressive bun- Shine: Dust, dirt, waste fabrics and oth- = 6.97 ≈ 7 Stations
process.
process. Semi-finished
dle system fabric
to a unit production
Semi-finished is arranged
system.
fabric in an
er wastes
is arranged are
in an ‘L’ ‘L’
shaped
removed. layout,
Temporary
shaped stor-which
layout, whichenables
enables thethe smooth
smoothflowflow
of of
age tables and floors have been cleaned Theoretical efficiency of the line TE =
materials.
5S tool To To
materials. ensure
ensuresafety safetyin in
theaccording
factory,
the factory, work
to the work
time surface
surface
schedule. borders,
All floor
borders,
ma- = Sfloor
umborders
of task time/(Number
borders for for of sta-
walkways,
walkways,
tions × cycle time )
The 5S tool helps everyone by making chines, tools and work areas are cleaned
workways
workways andand storage location
storage locationhave been
have introduced
been introduced in the section.
in the section. = 26.9/(7 × 3.85)
the opportunity to learn a culture of de- by the employee at the end of the shift
time. = 99.81%
veloping and maintaining a clean and
organised working environment. 5S is Actual efficiency of the line TA =
Line
Linebalancing
balancing
implemented in the sewing section and Order: All items are placed and arranged = Sum of task time/(Number of sta-
cutting section in the garment factory in an appropriate place after sorting and tions × cycle time )
as a model, since it is one of the most cleaning. The items are arranged in such = 26.9 /(8 × 3.85)
critical work areas. The complications a way that they are based on the degree of = 87.33 %
in the cutting and sewing section are usage in the production process. Semi-fin-
Balancing loss BL = 99.81 – 87.33
space utilisation, semi-finished fabric ished fabric is arranged in an ‘L’ shaped
layout, which enables the smooth flow of = 12.48%
around the sewing machine, unneeded
stock between workers, excess invento- materials. To ensure safety in the factory, Production target PT at 65% efficiency =
ry on the floor, improper flow of need- work surface borders, floor borders for = (7 labours × 1350 min/day)/26.9
ed equipment and no floor layout. This walkways, workways and storage location = 352 tees/day.
is refined by removing excess inventory have been introduced in the section.
and introducing a floor layout, as shown Total labour productivity in sewing sec-
in Figure 4. Line balancing tion = 352 / 21 = 17 tees/labour/day
Line balancing is the one of the important
Sort: All useless items are sorted and factors to make production flow smooth- Balancing in the line is made by chang-
eliminated from the sewing section for er as compared to the normal flow. Rank ing the traditional layout to a balanced

22 FIBRES & TEXTILES in Eastern Europe 2019, Vol. 27, 2(134)

layout model, which demonstrates the
amount of improvement considered in
the process, as shown in Table 2.
Conclusions
The lean tool is a potential means of
eliminating wastes in an organisation,
and recommended for identifying pos-
sible improvements in an organisation.
During the implementation of lean tools
in the garment industry, many potentials
have been identified with the analysis of
the current state map. These possible im-
provements are mapped with the future
state map proposed. 5S and line balanc-
ing in a garment factory are implement-
ed in the sewing and cutting section as
a pilot run, which shows a considerable
improvement in the factory. Based on the
outcomes achieved in this implementa-
tion, the following results are obtained:
n A significant achievement is a 34%
reduction in the production cycle time,
a 14% reduction in the inventory time,
and a 32% decrease in the non-value
time.
n 5S implementation in cutting and
sewing enables better utilisation of re-
sources in an effective manner.
n The efficiency of the line is increased
by 12.5%, so that human resources
can be well utilised.
n The production system has been mod-
ified from a progressive bundle sys-
tem to a unit production system.
Lean tools have been employed to iden-
tify waste, but it is well-known that tool
implementation is limited to a single
product family. Further research can be
extended to implementing lean tools
to the rest of the product families in an
organisation. Other lean tools can be im-
FIBRES & TEXTILES in Eastern Europe 2019, Vol. 27, 2(134)
plemented which will provide even better
improvements for an organisation.
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Received 27.11.2017 Reviewed 06.11.2018
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