Professional Documents
Culture Documents
Make
Honda
Model
Civic
Date
1st January 2018
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Accessories and Optional Equipment > Alarm
Module, (Vehicle Antitheft) > Component Information > Locations
Alarm Module: Locations
1. Remove the driver's dashboard lower cover. 2. Remove the steering column covers. 3.
Disconnect the 7P connector (A) from the immobilizer-keyless control unit (B).
4. Remove the two screws and the immobilizer-keyless control unit from the ignition key cylinder
(C). 5. Install the immobilizer-keyless control unit in the reverse order of removal. 6. After
replacement, register the immobilizer-keyless control unit, and make sure the immobilizer system
works properly.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Accessories and Optional Equipment >
Navigation Module > Component Information > Locations
SRS components are located in this area. Review the SRS component location.
Also review the precautions and procedures in Restraint Systems before doing repairs or service.
NOTE:
- Lay a workshop towel under the parts when working on them to protect the face panel from
scratches or other damage.
- Discharge static electricity from your body before and during the work.
- Do not touch the terminal connector of the flat plate cable with your bare hands. (If you have
touched it, wipe it off thoroughly.)
- Before replacing the navigation unit, make sure to remove the customer's navigation DVD, and
their audio CD, or PC card. Remanufactured navigation units do not come with a navigation DVD.
Re-install the customer's navigation DVD, audio CD, and audio PC card into the new
Remanufactured unit. If the navigation display won't open, manually remove the navigation DVD,
audio CD, and PC card.
1. Make sure you have the 4-digit anti-theft code for the navigation system, then write down the
audio presets. 2. Eject the DVD from the original navigation unit. To avoid scratching or damaging
the DVD, temporarily place the DVD in a jewel case. 3. Remove the subdisplay visor. 4. Remove
the center pocket hole lid and bolts, then pull out the center panel (A).
5. Disconnect the connectors (B), then remove the center panel. 6. Remove the screws, brackets
(A), and the navigation unit (B) from the center panel (C).
7. Install the navigation unit in the reverse order of removal, and make sure all connectors are
secure. 8. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), then reinstall the customer's original DVD, verifying
that the DVD is free of scratches or smudges. 9. Check any official Honda service website for more
service information about the navigation system.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Accessories and Optional Equipment >
Navigation Module > Component Information > Locations > Page 19
NOTE: Simply transferring the DVD from the original navigation unit to the new navigation unit
does not assure the correct software for the vehicle will be loaded into the new navigation unit.
Doing the DVD transfer without doing software patches may cause the new navigation unit to
appear to be malfunctioning.
10. Enter the new navigation anti-theft code, then enter the audio presets. 11. Park the vehicle
outside, and do the GPS initialization. 12. Give the new navigation anti-theft code to the customer.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Body and Frame > Heated Mirror Relay >
Component Information > Locations
Use this chart to identify the type of relay, then do the test listed for it.
Five-terminal type
- There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when battery positive terminal
is connected to the No. 5 terminal, and battery negative terminal is connected to the No. 3 terminal.
- There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 4 terminals when power is disconnected.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Body and Frame > Seat Heater Relay >
Component Information > Locations
Use this chart to identify the type of relay, then do the test listed for it.
Normally-open type
- There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when battery positive terminal
is connected to the No. 4 terminal, and battery negative terminal is connected to the No. 3 terminal.
- There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power is disconnected.
Five-terminal type
- There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when battery positive terminal
is connected to the No. 5 terminal, and battery negative terminal is connected to the No. 3 terminal.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Body and Frame > Seat Heater Relay >
Component Information > Locations > Page 30
- There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 4 terminals when power is disconnected.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Body and Frame > Sunroof / Moonroof Relay >
Component Information > Diagrams
170. Moonroof Cut Relay And Power Window Cut Relay (Honda Accessory: Canada A/T)
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Body and Frame > Sunroof / Moonroof Module >
Component Information > Locations
NOTE: ^
Do not spill brake-fluid on the vehicle; it may damage the paint; if brake fluid gets on the paint,
wash it off immediately with water.
^ Be careful not to damage or deform the brake lines during removal and installation.
^ To prevent the brake fluid from flowing, plug and cover the hose ends and joints with a shop
towel or equivalent material.
Removal
1. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). 2. Disconnect the VSA modulator-control unit 37P
connector (A) by pushing the lock (B) and pulling down the lever (C); the connector disconnects
itself.
3. Disconnect the six brake lines from the VSA modulator-control unit.
NOTE: Brake lines are connected to the master cylinder (D) and to the right-front (E), the left-rear
(F), the right-rear (G), and the left-front (H) brake systems.
4. Remove the VSA modulator-control unit (I) with the bracket (J) from the body. 5. Remove the
VSA modulator-control unit from the bracket.
Installation
1. Install the VSA modulator-control unit onto the bracket. 2. Install the bracket with the VSA
modulator-control unit to the body. 3. Reconnect the six brake lines, then tighten the flare nuts to
the specified torque. 4. Align the connecting surface of the VSA modulator-control unit 37P
connector to the VSA modulator-control unit. 5. Pull up the lever of the VSA modulator-control unit
37P connector, then confirm the connector is fully seated. 6. Bleed the brake system. 7. Do the
VSA sensor neutral position memorization. 8. Start the engine, and check that the ABS and the
VSA indicators go off. 9. Test-drive the vehicle, and check that the ABS, and the VSA indicators do
not come on.
NOTE: If the brake pedal is spongy, there may be air trapped in the modulator and then induced
into the normal brake system during modulation. Bleed the brake system again.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Cooling System > Radiator Cooling Fan Control
Module Relay > Component Information > Locations
Use this chart to identify the type of relay, then do the test listed for it.
Normally-open type
- There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when battery positive terminal
is connected to the No. 4 terminal, and battery negative terminal is connected to the No. 3 terminal.
- There should be no continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power is
disconnected.
Five-terminal type
- There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when battery positive terminal
is connected to the No. 5 terminal, and battery negative terminal is connected to the No. 3 terminal.
- There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 4 terminals when power is disconnected.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Cooling System > Radiator Cooling Fan Motor
Relay > Component Information > Locations > Page 56
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - HVAC > Blower Motor Relay > Component
Information > Locations
Use this chart to identify the type of relay, then do the test listed for it.
Normally-open type
- There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when battery positive terminal
is connected to the No. 4 terminal, and battery negative terminal is connected to the No. 3 terminal.
- There should be no continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power is
disconnected.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - HVAC > Compressor Clutch Relay > Component
Information > Locations
When the PCM receives a demand for cooling from the A/C system, it delays the compressor from
being energized, and enriches the mixture to assure smooth transition to the A/C mode.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - HVAC > Compressor Clutch Relay > Component
Information > Locations > Page 67
Compressor Clutch Relay: Testing and Inspection
Use this chart to identify the type of relay, then do the test listed for it.
Normally-open type
- There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when battery positive terminal
is connected to the No. 4 terminal, and battery negative terminal is connected to the No. 3 terminal.
- There should be no continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power is
disconnected.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - HVAC > Condenser Fan Motor Relay, HVAC >
Component Information > Locations
Use this chart to identify the type of relay, then do the test listed for it.
Normally-open type
- There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when battery positive terminal
is connected to the No. 4 terminal, and battery negative terminal is connected to the No. 3 terminal.
- There should be no continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power is
disconnected.
Five-terminal type
- There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when battery positive terminal
is connected to the No. 5 terminal, and battery negative terminal is connected to the No. 3 terminal.
- There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 4 terminals when power is disconnected.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - HVAC > Condenser Fan Motor Relay, HVAC >
Component Information > Locations > Page 73
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Instrument Panel > Instrument Panel Control
Module > Component Information > Locations
Instrument Panel Control Module: Locations
Circuit Schematics
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Lighting and Horns > Interior Lighting Module >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 90
Circuit Schematics
Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show
current flow, from power at the top of the diagram, to ground at the bottom.
Shared Circuits
Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that
connects one circuit to another, for example, is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it
pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or
component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring, check the operation of a
component it serves. If that component works, you know the shared wiring is OK.
Connectors
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Lighting and Horns > Interior Lighting Module >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 91
All in-line and junction connectors are numbered (C725, C416, etc.). Component connectors are
not numbered but are identified either by the name of the component if the component only has
one connector, or by a capital letter (A, B, C, etc.) if the component has more than one connector.
Below most connector numbers and component names are PHOTO and VIEW numbers. The
PHOTO number refers to a photo at Vehicle Level Locations that shows the connector's location on
the car. The VIEW number refers to an connector view at the Vehicle Level Connector Views that
shows the connector terminals, wire colors, connector cavity numbers, and other details.
The connector cavity numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector as seen
from either of the viewpoints. Except for the DLC (data link connector), disregard any numbers
molded into the connector housing.
Wires
Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the
stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number "2" next to the male
and female wire terminals at C554, for example, means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector
C554.
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the vehicle. Refer to the Power Distribution Diagram Set to get a more detailed
understanding of how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on. Individual circuit
schematics begin with a fuse. So if Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another
circuit share a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good
and power is available to the inoperative circuit.
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share the same
ground point.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Lighting and Horns > Interior Lighting Module >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 93
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Lighting and Horns > Interior Lighting Module >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 94
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Lighting and Horns > Interior Lighting Module >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 95
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Lighting and Horns > Interior Lighting Module >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 96
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Lighting and Horns > Interior Lighting Module >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 97
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Lighting and Horns > Interior Lighting Module >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 98
How to Identify Connector Terminals
Connector terminals are numbered according to the cavities they are in. The cavities are numbered
starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side or looking at the
female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the
same. All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not
the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the
connector face.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Lighting and Horns > Interior Lighting Module >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 99
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown above is #6.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Lighting and Horns > Interior Lighting Module >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 100
The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice
connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for
all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement
terminal availability.
On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged,
replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If
any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it.
Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the
wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the
terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to
make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a
factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS.
Use the tools from Pin Tool Set. First, check the connector that you are about to repair.
- If it has a secondary terminal lock, go to Connectors With a Secondary Lock. A secondary lock,
found on most connectors on some models, is an additional locking device on the connector
housing as a backup for the primary lock on the terminal.
- If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock.
All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the
secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the
connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities.
EXAMPLE A:
EXAMPLE B:
EXAMPLE C:
EXAMPLE D:
2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW
TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE E:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Lighting and Horns > Interior Lighting Module >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 104
1. Remove the secondary locks.
2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW
TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE F:
3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of
connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary
in size and shape.
EXAMPLE A:
EXAMPLE B:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Lighting and Horns > Interior Lighting Module >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 106
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE C:
EXAMPLE D:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Lighting and Horns > Interior Lighting Module >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 107
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE E:
EXAMPLE F:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Lighting and Horns > Interior Lighting Module >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 108
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE G:
1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct
replacement terminal based on the wire size range
NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part
number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available
through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures.
2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Lighting and Horns > Interior Lighting Module >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 109
3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the
wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from
the kit.)
NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did,
cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again.
4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the
anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown
in step 3.
6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact.
- If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool
over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the
stops make contact.
- If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully
squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Lighting and Horns > Interior Lighting Module >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 110
8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the following NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and
start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the
way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure
10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector.
Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too
short or when access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair.
On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged,
replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If
any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it.
1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from
Pin Tool Set.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Lighting and Horns > Interior Lighting Module >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 111
2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal,
then strip about half of the insulation off that piece.
This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal.
NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will
not nick or cut off any strands of wires.
3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and
same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit
onto the stripped end of the original wire.
5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the
pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more
than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at
the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the
harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make
each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail.
7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends
of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue
NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the
stripper.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Lighting and Horns > Interior Lighting Module >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 112
8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the
flare begins), and close the crimper handles far
enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click,
squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open.
9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the
wire all the way into the splice connector, and
squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until
the ratchet clicks again.
10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After
crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the
connector.
12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire(s), and shield them with
nonflammable material.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Lighting and Horns > Interior Lighting Module >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 113
13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the
gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat
evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete
when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube.
NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun.
Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the
wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size)
splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select
the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in
quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures.
Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the
Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching
connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body.
1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Lighting and Horns > Interior Lighting Module >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 114
2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool.
NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal
because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit.
3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal
with a replacement terminal from the appropriate
Five-Step Troubleshooting
Five-Step Troubleshooting
Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint.
Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
problem area.
Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by
tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground (certain
circuits contain a "How the Circuit Works" Diagram set). Also, trace circuits that share wiring with
the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on,
are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step
1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used
only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely
cause.
Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more
possible causes.
Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple
procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to
make tests at points that are easily accessible.
Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe
procedures.
Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire
problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure
no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur.
Test Equipment
Test Equipment
CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
1O-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up
of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to
various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is
voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital
volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is
between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM).
In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low
resistance means good continuity.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Lighting and Horns > Interior Lighting Module >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 115
Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a
reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is
affecting the measurement.
To order any test equipment shown, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool
numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin.
Jumper Wire
Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder
connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire
across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse.
To order any test equipment shown, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool
numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin.
Troubleshooting Precautions
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION: -
Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
- Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles.
2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part
Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place.
CAUTION: -
Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 116
- Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-mega
ohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that
contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
Troubleshooting Tests
Troubleshooting Tests
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt
ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest
"OHMS" range.
2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you
want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end.
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 117
4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or
no reading (zero), means good continuity.
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem. Circuits must be operating when checking
voltage drop.
1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts
range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage
is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM
voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Lighting and Horns > Interior Lighting Module >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 118
Interior Lighting Module: Electrical Diagrams
Diagram 115-0
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 119
Diagram 115-1
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 120
Diagram 115-2
Diagrams: Other diagrams referred to by number (See Diagram ##-#, etc.) within these diagrams
can be found at Diagrams by Number. See: Diagrams/Electrical Diagrams/Diagrams By Number
Locations: Location photographs (references to PHOTOS) referred to within these diagrams can be
found at Locations by Photo Number. See: Locations/Component Locations/Locations By Photo
Number
Connector Views: Connector terminal views (references to VIEWS) referred to within these
diagrams can be found at Connector Views by View Number. See: Diagrams/Connector
Views/Connector Views By View Number
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Power and Ground Distribution > Relay Box >
Component Information > Locations > Component Locations
Relay Box: Component Locations
Removal
1. Make sure you have the anti-theft code for the audio system or the navigation system (if
equipped), then write down the audio presets. 2. Make sure the ignition switch is OFF. 3.
Disconnect the negative battery cable, then disconnect the positive cable, and wait at least 3
minutes. 4. Remove the screws (A) for the alternator and battery cable terminals from the
under-hood fuse/relay box.
5. Remove the bottom cover from the under-hood fuse/relay box. 6. Disconnect the connectors
from the under-hood fuse/relay box. 7. Carefully remove the relays by prying under the base of the
relay.
NOTE: Do not use pliers. Pliers will damage the relays, which could cause the engine to stall or not
start.
Installation
1. Install the relays and connect the connectors to the under-hood fuse/relay box, then install the
under-hood fuse/relay box in the reverse order of
removal.
2. Install the removed parts in the reverse order of removal. 3. Connect the positive cable to the
battery, then connect the negative cable to the battery. 4. Enter the anti-theft code for the audio
system or the navigation system (if equipped), then enter the audio presets. Set the clock (on
vehicles
without navigation).
SRS components are located in this area. Review the SRS component locations and precautions
and procedures before performing repairs or servicing.
Removal
1. Make sure you have the anti-theft code for the audio system or the navigation system (if
equipped), then write down the audio presets. 2. Make sure the ignition switch is OFF. 3.
Disconnect the negative battery cable, then disconnect the positive cable, and wait at least 3
minutes. 4. Remove the driver's dashboard lower cover. 5. Disconnect the connectors from the
fuse side of the under-dash fuse/relay box (A).
6. Remove the mounting bolt, and pull the fuse/relay box away from the body. 7. Disconnect the
connectors from the back side of the under-dash fuse/relay box, then remove the under-dash
fuse/relay box. 8. Carefully remove the relays by prying under the base of the relay.
NOTE: Do not use pliers. Pliers will damage the relays, which could cause the engine to stall or not
start.
Installation
1. Install the relays and connect the connectors to the under-dash fuse/relay box, then install the
under-dash fuse/relay box in the reverse order of
removal.
2. Install the removed parts in the reverse order of removal. 3. Connect the positive cable to the
battery, then connect the negative cable to the battery. 4. Register the immobilizer system with the
HDS.
NOTE: The imoes unit is built into the MICU which is part of the under-dash fuse/relay box.
Because of this construction, the imoes must be registered, or the vehicle will not start.
5. Enter the anti-theft code for the audio system or the navigation system (if equipped), then enter
the audio presets. Set the clock (on vehicles
without navigation).
Use this chart to identify the type of relay, then do the test listed for it.
Normally-open type
- There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when battery positive terminal
is connected to the No. 4 terminal, and battery negative terminal is connected to the No. 3 terminal.
- There should be no continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power is
disconnected.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and Modules -
Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Customer Interest: > 09-047 > Sep > 09 > Engine Controls - MIL ON/Multiple DTCs Set
Engine Control Module: Customer Interest Engine Controls - MIL ON/Multiple DTCs Set
09-0471
MIL Comes On With DTC P0962, P0963, P0966, P0967, P0970, or P0971 (Supersedes 09-047,
dated June 30, 2009, to revise the information marked by asterisks)
*REVISION SUMMARY
^ Under PARTS INFORMATION, you are now referred to the parts catalog for part numbers and
descriptions.
^ Under VEHICLES AFFECTED, the Accord L4, the Civic (except Si), and the CR-V have been
changed to A/T.*
SYMPTOM
PROBABLE CAUSE
VEHICLES AFFECTED
CORRECTIVE ACTION
PARTS INFORMATION
Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request
consideration, and get a decision, before starting work.
DIAGNOSIS
Connect the HDS to the vehicle's DLC, and check for DTCs.
NO - This service bulletin does not apply. Continue with normal troubleshooting.
REPAIR PROCEDURE
^ Online, enter keywords PCM REPLACE, and select ECM/PCM Replacement or PCM
Replacement from the list.
Disclaimer
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and Modules -
Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Technical Service Bulletins for Engine Control Module: > 03-020 > Apr > 10 > Emissions - OBD II DTC's And Associated
Monitors
Engine Control Module: All Technical Service Bulletins Emissions - OBD II DTC's And Associated
Monitors
03-020
April 2, 2010
*REVISION SUMMARY
Following is a list of all OBD II DTCs and their associated monitors for all Honda automobiles with
OBD II. No one model has every DTC in the list.
Disclaimer
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and Modules -
Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Technical Service Bulletins for Engine Control Module: > 09-047 > Sep > 09 > Engine Controls - MIL ON/Multiple DTCs Set
Engine Control Module: All Technical Service Bulletins Engine Controls - MIL ON/Multiple DTCs
Set
09-0471
MIL Comes On With DTC P0962, P0963, P0966, P0967, P0970, or P0971 (Supersedes 09-047,
dated June 30, 2009, to revise the information marked by asterisks)
*REVISION SUMMARY
^ Under PARTS INFORMATION, you are now referred to the parts catalog for part numbers and
descriptions.
^ Under VEHICLES AFFECTED, the Accord L4, the Civic (except Si), and the CR-V have been
changed to A/T.*
SYMPTOM
PROBABLE CAUSE
VEHICLES AFFECTED
CORRECTIVE ACTION
PARTS INFORMATION
Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request
consideration, and get a decision, before starting work.
DIAGNOSIS
Connect the HDS to the vehicle's DLC, and check for DTCs.
NO - This service bulletin does not apply. Continue with normal troubleshooting.
REPAIR PROCEDURE
^ Online, enter keywords PCM REPLACE, and select ECM/PCM Replacement or PCM
Replacement from the list.
Disclaimer
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and Modules -
Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Other Service Bulletins for Engine Control Module: > 03-020 > Apr > 10 > Emissions - OBD II DTC's And Associated
Monitors
Engine Control Module: All Technical Service Bulletins Emissions - OBD II DTC's And Associated
Monitors
03-020
April 2, 2010
*REVISION SUMMARY
Following is a list of all OBD II DTCs and their associated monitors for all Honda automobiles with
OBD II. No one model has every DTC in the list.
Disclaimer
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and Modules -
Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page
219
Shared Circuits
Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that
connects one circuit to another, for example, is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it
pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or
component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring, check the operation of a
component it serves. If that component works, you know the shared wiring is OK.
Connectors
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Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information
and Instructions > Page 224
All in-line and junction connectors are numbered (C725, C416, etc.). Component connectors are
not numbered but are identified either by the name of the component if the component only has
one connector, or by a capital letter (A, B, C, etc.) if the component has more than one connector.
Below most connector numbers and component names are PHOTO and VIEW numbers. The
PHOTO number refers to a photo at Vehicle Level Locations that shows the connector's location on
the car. The VIEW number refers to an connector view at the Vehicle Level Connector Views that
shows the connector terminals, wire colors, connector cavity numbers, and other details.
The connector cavity numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector as seen
from either of the viewpoints. Except for the DLC (data link connector), disregard any numbers
molded into the connector housing.
Wires
Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the
stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number "2" next to the male
and female wire terminals at C554, for example, means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector
C554.
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the vehicle. Refer to the Power Distribution Diagram Set to get a more detailed
understanding of how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on. Individual circuit
schematics begin with a fuse. So if Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another
circuit share a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good
and power is available to the inoperative circuit.
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share the same
ground point.
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Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information
and Instructions > Page 226
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Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information
and Instructions > Page 227
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Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information
and Instructions > Page 228
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Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information
and Instructions > Page 229
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Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information
and Instructions > Page 230
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Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information
and Instructions > Page 231
How to Identify Connector Terminals
How to Identify Connector Terminals
Connector terminals are numbered according to the cavities they are in. The cavities are numbered
starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side or looking at the
female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the
same. All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not
the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the
connector face.
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Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information
and Instructions > Page 232
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown above is #6.
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Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information
and Instructions > Page 233
The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice
connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for
all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement
terminal availability.
On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged,
replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If
any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it.
Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the
wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the
terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to
make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a
factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS.
Use the tools from Pin Tool Set. First, check the connector that you are about to repair.
- If it has a secondary terminal lock, go to Connectors With a Secondary Lock. A secondary lock,
found on most connectors on some models, is an additional locking device on the connector
housing as a backup for the primary lock on the terminal.
- If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock.
All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the
secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the
connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities.
EXAMPLE A:
2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW
TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE E:
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Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information
and Instructions > Page 237
1. Remove the secondary locks.
2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW
TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE F:
All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of
connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary
in size and shape.
EXAMPLE A:
EXAMPLE B:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and Modules -
Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information
and Instructions > Page 239
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE C:
EXAMPLE D:
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and Modules -
Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information
and Instructions > Page 240
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE E:
EXAMPLE F:
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Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information
and Instructions > Page 241
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE G:
1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct
replacement terminal based on the wire size range
NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part
number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available
through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures.
2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool.
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Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information
and Instructions > Page 242
3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the
wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from
the kit.)
NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did,
cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again.
4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the
anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown
in step 3.
6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact.
- If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool
over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the
stops make contact.
- If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully
squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape.
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Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information
and Instructions > Page 243
8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the following NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and
start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the
way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure
10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector.
Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too
short or when access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair.
On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged,
replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If
any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it.
1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from
Pin Tool Set.
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Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information
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2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal,
then strip about half of the insulation off that piece.
This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal.
NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will
not nick or cut off any strands of wires.
3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and
same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit
onto the stripped end of the original wire.
5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the
pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more
than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at
the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the
harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make
each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail.
7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends
of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue
NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the
stripper.
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Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information
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8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the
flare begins), and close the crimper handles far
enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click,
squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open.
9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the
wire all the way into the splice connector, and
squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until
the ratchet clicks again.
10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After
crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the
connector.
12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire(s), and shield them with
nonflammable material.
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Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information
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13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the
gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat
evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete
when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube.
NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun.
Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the
wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size)
splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select
the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in
quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures.
Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the
Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching
connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body.
1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector.
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2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool.
NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal
because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit.
3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal
with a replacement terminal from the appropriate
Five-Step Troubleshooting
Five-Step Troubleshooting
Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint.
Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
problem area.
Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by
tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground (certain
circuits contain a "How the Circuit Works" Diagram set). Also, trace circuits that share wiring with
the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on,
are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step
1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used
only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely
cause.
Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more
possible causes.
Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple
procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to
make tests at points that are easily accessible.
Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe
procedures.
Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire
problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure
no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur.
Test Equipment
Test Equipment
CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
1O-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up
of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to
various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is
voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital
volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is
between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM).
In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low
resistance means good continuity.
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Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a
reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is
affecting the measurement.
To order any test equipment shown, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool
numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin.
Jumper Wire
Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder
connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire
across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse.
To order any test equipment shown, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool
numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin.
Troubleshooting Precautions
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION: -
Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
- Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles.
2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part
Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place.
CAUTION: -
Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
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- Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-mega
ohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that
contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
Troubleshooting Tests
Troubleshooting Tests
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt
ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest
"OHMS" range.
2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you
want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end.
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4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or
no reading (zero), means good continuity.
Testing for Voltage Drop
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem. Circuits must be operating when checking
voltage drop.
1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts
range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage
is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM
voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
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NOTE: The PCM stays on up to 15 minutes after the ignition switch is turned OFF. Jumping the
SCS line after turning the ignition switch OFF cancels this function. Disconnecting the PCM during
this function, without jumping the SCS line first, can damage the PCM.
3. Lift up the under-hood fuse/relay box (D). 4. Remove the coolant reservoir (E). Disconnect PCM
connectors A, B, and C.
NOTE: PCM connectors A, B, and C have symbols (A=Square, B=triangle, C=circle) embossed on
them for identification.
5. When diagnosis/troubleshooting is done at the PCM connector, use the terminal test port (A)
above the terminal you need to check.
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6. Connect one side of the patch cord (A) terminals to a commercially available digital multimeter
(B), and connect the other side of the patch cord
terminals to a commercially available banana jack (Pomona Electronics Tool No. 3563 or
equivalent) (C).
7. Gently contact the pin probe (male) at the terminal test port from the terminal side. Do not force
the tips into the terminals.
NOTE: -
- To prevent damage to the connector terminals, do not insert test equipment probes, paper clips,
or other substitutes as they can damage the terminals. Damaged terminals cause a poor
connection and an incorrect measurement.
- Do not puncture the insulation on a wire. Punctures can cause poor or intermittent electrical
connections.
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ECM Reset
The PCM stores various specific data to correct the system even if there is no electrical power such
as when the battery negative terminal or No. 19 FI MAIN (15 A) fuse are disconnected. Stored data
based on failed parts should be cleared by using the CLEAR COMMAND of the HDS, if parts are
replaced.
The HDS has three kinds of clear commands to meet this purpose. They are DTC clear, PCM
reset, and CKP pattern clear. DTC clear command erases all stored DTC codes, freeze data,
on-board snapshot, and readiness codes. This must be done with the HDS after reproducing the
DTC during troubleshooting.
The PCM reset command erases all stored DTC codes, freeze data, on-board snapshot, readiness
codes, and all specific data to correct the system except CKP pattern. If the CKP pattern data in
the PCM was cleared, you must do the CKP pattern learn procedure. The CKP pattern clear
command erases only CKP pattern data. This command is for repair of a misfire or the CKP
sensor.
If you are using a generic scan tool to clear commands, be aware that there is only one setting for
clearing the PCM, and it clears all commands at the same time (CKP pattern learn, idle learn,
readiness codes, freeze data, on-board snapshot, and DTCs). After you clear all commands, you
then need to do these procedures, in this order: PCM idle learn procedure.; CKP pattern learn
procedure;
DTC Clear
1. Clear the DTC with the HDS while the engine is stopped. 2. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 3. Turn
the ignition switch ON (II), and wait 30 seconds. 4. Turn the ignition switch OFF, and disconnect
the HDS from the DLC.
PCM Reset
NOTE:If the low fuel indicator is blinking, the PCM can not be reset with the HDS. To reset the
PCM, do the low fuel indicator troubleshooting .
1. Reset the PCM with the HDS while the engine is stopped. 2. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 3.
Turn the ignition switch ON (II), and wait 30 seconds. 4. Turn the ignition switch OFF, and
disconnect the HDS from the DLC. 5. Do the PCM idle learn procedure,
CKP Pattern Clear/CKP Pattern Learn Clear/Learn Procedure (with the HDS)
1. Connect the HDS to the data link connector (DLC) (A) located under the driver's side of the
dashboard.
2. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). 3. Make sure the HDS communicates with the PCM and other
vehicle systems. If it doesn't, go to the DLC circuit troubleshooting. See: Powertrain
4. Select CRANK PATTERN in the ADJUSTMENT MENU with the HDS. 5. Select CRANK
PATTERN LEARNING with the HDS, and follow the screen prompts.
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1. Start the engine. Hold the engine speed at 3,000 rpm without load (in Park or neutral) until the
radiator fan comes on. 2. Test-drive the vehicle on a level road: Decelerate (with the throttle fully
closed) from an engine speed of 2,500 rpm down to 1,000 rpm with the
transmission in 2 position.
3. Test-drive the vehicle on a level road: Decelerate (with the throttle fully closed) from an engine
speed of 5,000 rpm down to 3,000 rpm with the
transmission in 2 position.
4. Repeat step 2 and 3 several times. 5. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 6. Turn the ignition switch
ON (II), and wait 30 seconds.
1. Reset the PCM with the HDS. 2. Do the PCM idle learn procedure. 3. Turn the ignition switch
OFF. 4. Disconnect the HDS from the DLC.
NOTE: The PCM is part of the immobilizer system. If you replace the PCM, it will have a different
immobilizer code. In order for the engine to start, you must rewrite the immobilizer code with the
HDS.
- Honda interface module (HIM) and an iN workstation with HDS and CM update software
- HDS pocket tester
- GNA600 and an iN workstation with HDS and CM update software Use any one of these update
tools.
NOTE: -
Use this procedure when you need to update the PCM during a troubleshooting procedures.
- Before you update the PCM, make sure the battery in the vehicle is fully charged, and connect a
jumper battery (not a battery charger) to maintain system voltage.
- Never turn the ignition switch OFF during the update. If there is a problem with the update, leave
the ignition switch ON.
- To prevent PCM damage, do not operate anything electrical (headlights, audio system, brakes,
A/C, power windows, moonroof (if equipped), door locks, etc.) during the update.
- To ensure the latest program is installed, do PCM update whenever the PCM is substituted or
replaced.
- You cannot update PCM with a program it already has. It will only accept a new program.
- High temperature in the engine compartment might cause the PCM to become too hot to run the
update. If the engine has been running before this procedure, open the hood and cool the engine
compartment.
- If you need to diagnose the Honda interface module (HIM) because the HIM's red (# 3) light came
on or was flashed during the update, leave the ignition switch in the ON (II) position when you
disconnect the HIM from the data link connector (DLC). This will prevent PCM damage.
1. Turn the ignition switch ON (II), but do not start the engine.
2. Connect the HDS to the data link connector (DLC) (A) located under the driver's side of the
dashboard. 3. Make sure the HDS communicates with the PCM and other vehicle systems. If it
doesn't, go to the DLC circuit troubleshooting. See: Powertrain
you are returning from the DLC circuit troubleshooting, skip steps 4 and 5 and clean the throttle
body after updating the PCM.
4. Select the INSPECTION MENU with the HDS. 5. Select the ETCS TEST, then select the TP
POSITION CHECK and follow the screen prompts with the HDS.
6. Exit the HDS, then select the update function and follow the screen prompts to update the PCM.
7. If the software in the PCM is the latest, disconnect the HDS/HIM from the DLC, and go back to
the procedure that you were doing. If the software
in the PCM is not the latest, follow the instructions on the screen. If prompted to choose the
PGM-FI system or the A/T system, make sure you update both.
NOTE: If the PCM update system requires you to cool the PCM, follow what is shown in the
screen. If you run into a problem (programming takes over 15 minutes, status bar goes over 100 %,
D or immobilizer light flashes, HDS tablet freezes, etc.) during the update procedure, follow these
steps to minimize the chance of damaging the PCM. -
- Reconnect the HDS to the DLC, and try the update procedure again.
8. If the TP POSITION CHECK failed in step 5, clean the throttle body, 9. Do the PCM idle learn
procedure,
- Honda interface module (HIM) and an iN workstation with HDS and CM update software
- GNA600 and an iN workstation with HDS and CM update software Use any one of these update
tools.
NOTE: Use this procedure when you need to substitute a known-good PCM during troubleshooting
procedures.
1. Make sure you have the anti-theft codes for the radio and the navigation system (if equipped).
2. Connect the HDS to the data link connector (DLC) (A) located under the driver's side of the
dashboard. 3. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). 4. Make sure the HDS communicates with the PCM
and other vehicle systems. If it doesn't, go to the DLC circuit troubleshooting. See: Powertrain
5. Select the INSPECTION MENU with the HDS. 6. Select the ETCS TEST, then select the TP
POSITION CHECK and follow the screen prompts.
10. Remove the bolts (D), then remove the PCM (E). 11. Disconnect PCM connectors A, B, and C.
NOTE: PCM connectors A, B, and C have symbols (A=Square, B=Triangle, C=Circle) embossed
on them for identification.
12. Install the PCM and the battery in the reverse order of removal. 13. Turn the ignition switch ON
(II).
NOTE: DTC P0630 "VIN Not Programmed or Mismatch" may be stored because the VIN has not
been programmed into the PCM; ignore it, and continue this procedure.
14. Manually input the VIN to the PCM with the HDS. 15. Update the PCM if it does not have the
latest software. 16. Select the IMMOBI SYSTEM with the HDS. 17. Enter the immobilizer code with
the PCM replacement procedure in the HDS; it allows you to start the engine. 18. Reset the PCM
with the HDS. 19. If the TP POSITION CHECK failed in step 7, clean the throttle body. 20. Do the
PCM idle learn procedure. 21. Do the CKP pattern learn procedure. 22. Enter the anti-theft codes
for the radio and the navigation system (if equipped) and set the clock.
The idle learn procedure must be done so the ECM/PCM can learn the engine idle characteristics.
1. Make sure all electrical items (A/C, audio, lights, etc.) are off. 2. Reset the ECM/PCM with the
HDS. 3. Turn the ignition switch ON (II), and wait 2 seconds. 4. Start the engine. Hold the engine
speed at 3,000 rpm without load (in Park or neutral) until the radiator fan comes on, or until the
engine coolant
5. Let the engine idle for about 5 minutes with the throttle fully closed.
NOTE: If the radiator fan comes on, do not include its running time in the 5 minutes.
6. Verify on the HDS data list that the idle learn procedure is complete.
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ECM/PCM Replacement
- Honda interface module (HIM) and an iN workstation with HDS and CM update software
NOTE: -
Make sure the HDS is loaded with the latest software version.
- If you are replacing the ECM/PCM after substituting a known-good ECM/PCM, reinstall the
original ECM/PCM, then do this procedure.
- During the procedure, is any READ DATA, WRITE DATA, or other data checks fail, note the
failure, then continue.
1. Make sure you have the anti-theft code for the audio system or the navigation system (if
equipped), then write down the audio presets. 2. Connect the HDS to the data link connector (DLC)
(A) located under the driver's side of the dashboard.
3. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). 4. Make sure the HDS communicates with the ECM/PCM and
other vehicle systems. If it doesn't, go to the DLC circuit troubleshooting. See:
5. USA, Canada models: Select the PGM-FI system with the HDS. 6. USA, Canada models: Select
the INSPECTION MENU with the HDS. 7. USA, Canada models: Select the ETCS TEST, then
select the TP POSITION CHECK, and follow the screen prompts.
NOTE: If the TP POSITION CHECK indicates FAILED, continue with this procedure.
8. USA, Canada models: Select the REPLACE ECM/PCM MENU, then READ DATA, and follow
the screen prompts.
NOTE: -
Doing this step copies (READS) the engine oil life data from the original ECM/PCM so you can
later download (WRITES) it into the new ECM/PCM.
9. USA, Canada models A/T: Select the A/T system with the HDS.
10. USA, Canada models A/T: Select the REPLACE TCM/PCM MENU, then READ DATA, and
follow the screen prompts.
NOTE: -
Doing this step copies (READS) the ATF life data from the original PCM so you can later download
(WRITES) it into the new PCM.
11. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 12. Remove the battery. 13. Remove the cover (A).
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14. Remove the bolts (D), then remove the ECM/PCM (E).
16. Install the ECM/PCM and the battery in the reverse order of removal. 17. Turn the ignition
switch ON (II). 18. USA, Canada models: Manually input the VIN to the ECM/PCM with the HDS:
NOTE: DTC P0630 "VIN Not Programmed or Mismatch" may be stored because the VIN has not
been programmed into the ECM/PCM; ignore it, and continue this procedure.
19. USA, Canada models: If the READ DATA (engine oil life) failed in step 8, go to step 22 (A/T
model) or step 25 (M/T model). Otherwise, go to
step 20.
20. USA, Canada models: Select the PGM-FI system with the HDS. 21. USA, Canada models:
Select the REPLACE ECM/PCM MENU, then WRITE DATA, and follow the screen prompts.
NOTE: If the WRITE DATA indicates FAILED, continue with this procedure.
22. USA, Canada models A/T: If the READ DATA (ATF life) failed in step 10, go to step 25.
Otherwise go to step 23. 23. USA, Canada models A/T: Select the A/T SYSTEM with the HDS. 24.
USA, Canada models A/T: Select the REPLACE TCM/PCM MENU, then WRITE DATA, and follow
the screen prompts.
NOTE: If the WRITE DATA indicates FAILED, continue with this procedure.
25. Select IMMOBI system with the HDS. 26. Enter the immobilizer code with the ECM/PCM
replacement procedure in the HDS; it allows you to start the engine. 27. USA, Canada models: If
the TP POSITION CHECK failed in step 7 clean the throttle body, then go to step 28. 28. USA,
Canada models: If the READ DATA failed in step 8 or the WRITE DATA failed in step 21, replace
the engine oil and engine oil filter, then
29. USA, Canada models: If the READ DATA failed in step 10 or the WRITE DATA failed in step
24, replace the ATF, then go to step 30. 30. Select PGM-FI system, and reset the ECM/PCM with
the HDS. 31. Update the ECM/PCM if it does not have the latest software. 32. Do the ECM/PCM
idle learn procedure.
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33. Do the CKP pattern learn procedure. 34. Enter the anti-theft code for the audio or the
navigation system (if equipped), then set the clock (if needed).
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Computers and Control Systems > Fuel Injector Driver Module (CNG) > Component Information > Locations
Fuel Injector Driver Module (CNG): Locations
138. Accessory Power Socket Relay, Front, Accessory Power Socket Relay, Rear (EX, Si) Or
Injector Control Module Relay (GX)
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266. Injector Control Module (GX)
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Fuel Injector Driver Module (CNG): Testing and Inspection
Use this chart to identify the type of relay, then do the test listed for it.
Normally-open type
- There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when battery positive terminal
is connected to the No. 4 terminal, and battery negative terminal is connected to the No. 3 terminal.
- There should be no continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power is
disconnected.
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1. Remove the passenger's dashboard undercover, 2. Remove the right kick panel, 3. Disconnect
the injector control module connector (A).
4. Remove the injector control module (B). 5. Install the parts in the reverse order of removal.
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Computers and Control Systems > Main Relay (Computer/Fuel System) > Component Information > Locations
PGM-FI main relay 1 is energized whenever the ignition switch is ON (II) to supply battery voltage
to the PCM, and power for the injector control module relay and the ETCS control relay.
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Main Relay (Computer/Fuel System): Testing and Inspection
Use this chart to identify the type of relay, then do the test listed for it.
Normally-open type
- There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when battery positive terminal
is connected to the No. 4 terminal, and battery negative terminal is connected to the No. 3 terminal.
- There should be no continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power is
disconnected.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and Modules -
Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Injector Driver Module (CNG) > Component Information > Locations
Fuel Injector Driver Module (CNG): Locations
138. Accessory Power Socket Relay, Front, Accessory Power Socket Relay, Rear (EX, Si) Or
Injector Control Module Relay (GX)
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Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Injector Driver Module (CNG) > Component Information > Locations > Page 320
266. Injector Control Module (GX)
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and Modules -
Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Injector Driver Module (CNG) > Component Information > Locations > Page 321
Fuel Injector Driver Module (CNG): Testing and Inspection
Use this chart to identify the type of relay, then do the test listed for it.
Normally-open type
- There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when battery positive terminal
is connected to the No. 4 terminal, and battery negative terminal is connected to the No. 3 terminal.
- There should be no continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power is
disconnected.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and Modules -
Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Injector Driver Module (CNG) > Component Information > Locations > Page 322
1. Remove the passenger's dashboard undercover, 2. Remove the right kick panel, 3. Disconnect
the injector control module connector (A).
4. Remove the injector control module (B). 5. Install the parts in the reverse order of removal.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and Modules -
Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Shut-off Solenoid Relay > Component Information > Locations
267. Fuel Shut-off Solenoid Valve Relay (GX) And Starter Control Relay (GX)
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and Modules -
Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Shut-off Solenoid Relay > Component Information > Locations > Page 329
Fuel Shut-off Solenoid Relay: Testing and Inspection
Use this chart to identify the type of relay, then do the test listed for it.
Normally-open type
- There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when battery positive terminal
is connected to the No. 4 terminal, and battery negative terminal is connected to the No. 3 terminal.
- There should be no continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power is
disconnected.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and Modules -
Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Main Relay (Computer/Fuel System) > Component Information > Locations
PGM-FI main relay 1 is energized whenever the ignition switch is ON (II) to supply battery voltage
to the PCM, and power for the injector control module relay and the ETCS control relay.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and Modules -
Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Main Relay (Computer/Fuel System) > Component Information > Locations > Page 335
Main Relay (Computer/Fuel System): Testing and Inspection
Use this chart to identify the type of relay, then do the test listed for it.
Normally-open type
- There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when battery positive terminal
is connected to the No. 4 terminal, and battery negative terminal is connected to the No. 3 terminal.
- There should be no continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power is
disconnected.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and Modules -
Ignition System > Ignition Relay > Component Information > Locations
NO - Replace the fuse. If the fuse continues to blow, locate and repair the short in the circuit
between the under-hood fuse/relay box and the ignition coils.
2. Remove the ignition coil relay from the under-hood fuse/relay box, and test it.
YES - Go to step 3.
3. Measure the voltage between ignition coil relay 4P socket terminal No. 2 and body ground, then
terminal No. 4 and body ground.
YES - Go to step 4.
4. Check for continuity between each ignition coil relay 4P socket terminal No. 1 and the each
ignition coil 3P connector terminal No. 3.
Is there continuity?
YES - Go to step 5.
NO - Repair open in the wire between ignition coil relay 4P socket terminal No. 1 and ignition coil
3P connector terminal No. 3.
5. Check for continuity between each ignition coil 3P connector terminal No. 2 and the body
ground.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and Modules -
Ignition System > Ignition Relay > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Ignition Coil Relay Circuit > Page 345
Is there continuity?
YES - Go to step 6.
NO - Repair open in the wire between ignition coil 3P connector terminal No. 2 and the body
ground.
6. Connect the Honda Diagnostic System (HDS) to the data link connector (DLC). 7. Turn the
ignition switch to ON (II). 8. Make sure the HDS communicates with the vehicle and the engine
control module (ECM)/powertrain control module (PCM). If it doesn't
9. Jump the SCS line with the HDS, then turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0).
NOTE: This step must be done to protect the ECM/PCM from damage.
10. Disconnect ECM/PCM connector A (44P). 11. Check for continuity between ignition coil relay
4P socket terminal No. 3 and body ground.
Is there continuity?
YES - Repair short in the wire between ignition coil relay 4P socket terminal No. 3 and the
ECM/PCM (A6).
NO - Go to step 12.
12. Check for continuity between ignition coil relay 4P socket terminal No. 3 and ECM/PCM
connector terminal A6.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and Modules -
Ignition System > Ignition Relay > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Ignition Coil Relay Circuit > Page 346
Is there continuity?
YES - The system is OK at this time. Check for loose or poor connections at the ignition coil relay
and the ECM/PCM (A6).
NO - Repair open in the wire between ignition coil relay 4P socket terminal No. 3 and the
ECM/PCM (A6).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and Modules -
Ignition System > Ignition Relay > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Ignition Coil Relay Circuit > Page 347
Ignition Relay: Testing and Inspection Power Relay
Use this chart to identify the type of relay, then do the test listed for it.
Normally-open type
- There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when battery positive terminal
is connected to the No. 4 terminal, and battery negative terminal is connected to the No. 3 terminal.
- There should be no continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power is
disconnected.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Restraint Systems > Air Bag Control Module >
Component Information > Locations
Air Bag Control Module: Locations
Removal
NOTE: If you are disconnecting only SRS unit connector A, skip step 2.
1. Disconnect the battery negative cable, then wait for 3 minutes before starting work. 2.
Disconnect both seat belt tensioner connectors and both seat belt buckle tensioner connectors. 3.
Remove the center console. 4. Disconnect SRS unit connector A (28P), connector B (28P) and
remove the TORX bolts (C), then pull out the SRS unit.
Installation
1. Install the SRS unit (A) with new TORX bolts (B), then connect the connectors (C) to the SRS
unit-push them into position until they click.
NOTE: Be sure the SRS unit is sitting squarely against it's bracket before torquing the TORX bolt.
2. Reconnect both seat belt tensioner connectors and seat belt buckle tensioner connector. 3.
Reconnect the negative cable to the battery. 4. Calibrate the ODS unit. 5. Do the ODS unit
operation check.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Restraint Systems > Air Bag Control Module >
Component Information > Service and Repair > SRS Unit Replacement > Page 361
6. After installing the SRS unit, confirm proper system operation: Turn the ignition switch ON (II);
the SRS indicator should come on for about 6
NOTE: Review the seat replacement procedure before doing repairs or service.
Removal
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery, then wait for 3 minutes before starting work. 2.
Disconnect the passenger's side airbag 2P connector. 3. Remove the passenger's seat assembly
and seat-back cover. 4. Disconnect the ODS unit 18P connector (A) and sensor connectors (B)
from the ODS unit (C).
Installation
1. Place the ODS unit (A) on the seat-back frame. Tighten the two nuts (B), and connect the ODS
unit harness 18P connector (C) and sensor
2. Install the seat-back cover in the reverse order of removal. 3. Install the seat assembly, then
connect the side airbag 2P connector. 4. Reconnect the negative cable to the battery. 5. Set the
seat-back in the normal position, and make sure there is nothing on the front passenger's seat. 6.
Initialize the ODS unit. 7. After installing the ODS unit, confirm proper system operation: Turn the
ignition switch ON (II); the SRS indicator should come on for about 6
171. Shift Lock Solenoid Cut Relay And Start Relay (Honda Accessory: Canada A/T)
267. Fuel Shut-off Solenoid Valve Relay (GX) And Starter Control Relay (GX)
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Starting and Charging > Starter Relay >
Component Information > Locations > Page 373
Starter Relay: Testing and Inspection
Use this chart to identify the type of relay, then do the test listed for it.
Normally-open type
- There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when battery positive terminal
is connected to the No. 4 terminal, and battery negative terminal is connected to the No. 3 terminal.
- There should be no continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power is
disconnected.
Five-terminal type
- There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when battery positive terminal
is connected to the No. 5 terminal, and battery negative terminal is connected to the No. 3 terminal.
- There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 4 terminals when power is disconnected.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Starting and Charging > Starter Relay >
Component Information > Locations > Page 374
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Steering and Suspension > Relays and Modules
- Wheels and Tires > Tire Pressure Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tire Monitor System -
VT55 TPMS Update Information
Tire Pressure Module: Technical Service Bulletins Tire Monitor System - VT55 TPMS Update
Information
09-070
INTRODUCTION
The software for the VT55 TPMS tool is updated periodically to add new vehicles, fix software
bugs, and enhance the tool's function. You can use the ATEQ update wizard to download software
and firmware to your VT55 using a PC and the Internet. It is extremely important to use the latest
VT55 software to ensure that the current TPMS initialization and diagnostic procedures are used.
American Honda is also introducing a new policy to ensure that VT55 tools are updated promptly.
The VT55 software must now be updated within 3 days of receiving notification of an available
update from an iN message or other Honda communication. If an out-of-date version is used, any
TPMS replacements may not be covered under warranty.
^ VT55 Tool Kit (includes VT55, AC adapter, USB cable and CD): P/N AEQVT55
P/N AEQVT555
^ Internet access
To order the VT55, or the USB connector, go to the Honda Tool and Equipment catalog on the iN
(select Service > Service Bay > Tool and Equipment > Online Catalog), or call.
SOFTWARE VERSION
To check the VT55 version software, turn on the unit and the version number appears for about 2
seconds during the startup process. If you miss it, turn the VT55 off by pressing and holding the
power switch for about 2 seconds, then turn it back on.
1. Go online to
update.ateq.com/software/webvt/update_webvt.zip
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- Wheels and Tires > Tire Pressure Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tire Monitor System -
VT55 TPMS Update Information > Page 381
2. Depending on your Internet connection, the Connect to update screen may appear. If so, enter
the login and password.
Login: webvt
Password: update
3. The File Download screen appears. Select Save. The Zip file will be saved to your computer.
4. After the Zip file finishes downloading, open the update - webvt.zip file by double-clicking on it.
5. The WinZip - update - webvt.zip screen appears. Double-click the WebVT55_V4_2.exe file.
NOTE:
If you see a Compressed (Zipped) Folders Error, contact your IT person because there is a
permissions issue with your firewall.
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- Wheels and Tires > Tire Pressure Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tire Monitor System -
VT55 TPMS Update Information > Page 382
6. The WinZip Caution screen appears. Select Yes.
7. If you have a previous version of the WebVT software installed on your computer, the
InstallShield Wizard gives you the option to modify, repair, or
If you have a previous software version, select Modify, then Next. After the software is modified
select Finish.
11. The InstallShield Wizard will prompt you when WebVT is installed on your computer. Select
Finish.
12. The serial emulation port driver installer screen appears. Connect your VT55, and turn it on.
Select Next.
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- Wheels and Tires > Tire Pressure Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tire Monitor System -
VT55 TPMS Update Information > Page 384
13. After a few seconds, the serial emulation port driver installer prompts you when it is finished.
Select Finish.
14. If you have any problems installing the VT55 update software, call ATEQ at 734-838-3100, and
select option 2 for service.
NOTE:
^ Some screens may list the tool as VT5O or VT55. This is OK; it will not affect updating the tool.
^ If at any time during the update an error message appears, or the VT55 is not detected, see the
Standard User Guide that is on the ATEQ CD that came with the tool, or call ATEQ at
734-838-3100, and select option 2 for service.
1. Go to your desktop, and double-click the WebVT icon to launch the VT55 update software.
2. Connect the VT55 to your PC with the USB cable, then turn it on. The serial number and current
software version automatically display.
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- Wheels and Tires > Tire Pressure Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tire Monitor System -
VT55 TPMS Update Information > Page 385
3. The Found New Hardware Wizard may appear. If it does, select Yes, now and every time I
connect a device, then select Next.
4. The Found New Hardware Wizard prompts you to install the ATEQ R5232 Emulation software.
Select Install the software automatically
5. The Found New Hardware Wizard will prompt you when the software is installed. Select Finish.
6. Select UPDATE DEVICE. Depending on your Internet connection, you may be prompted for a
login and password. If you know your login and
password, enter them, otherwise, contact your administrator or internet service provider for the
login and password.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Steering and Suspension > Relays and Modules
- Wheels and Tires > Tire Pressure Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tire Monitor System -
VT55 TPMS Update Information > Page 386
7. If a new software version is available, you'll see a message asking if you want to update the
VT55. Select Yes.
NOTE:
Do not disconnect the VT55 during the update procedure, as you may permanently damage the
tool.
If no new software version is available, you'll see a message asking if you want to overwrite the
existing software. Select No.
8. The Dealer Identification screen appears. Enter your 6-digit dealer number, then select Apply.
9. If the dealer number is valid, your dealership's name and address appears in the dealer
information box. Select NEXT.
If the dealership number is not valid, call the American Honda Special Tools Hotline for assistance.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Steering and Suspension > Relays and Modules
- Wheels and Tires > Tire Pressure Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tire Monitor System -
VT55 TPMS Update Information > Page 387
10. The VT55 begins updating. When the VT55 is finished updating, you'll see a message stating
the update is done. Disconnect the VT55, then select
OK.
11. Let the VT55 turn off (for about 1 minute). Turn it on, and confirm that the software is updated
to the software version listed under SOFTWARE
VERSION.
12. If you have more than one VT55, repeat the update procedure for each unit.
13. Once all VT55s are updated, select EXIT, and store the USB cable in a safe location for future
updates.
Disclaimer
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Steering and Suspension > Relays and Modules
- Wheels and Tires > Tire Pressure Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 388
NOTE: Make sure the TPMS control unit mounting bracket is not bent or twisted as this may affect
its communication with the tire pressure sensors.
1. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). 2. Remove the driver's dashboard undercover. 3.
Disconnect the TPMS control unit connector (A).
4. Remove the TPMS control unit (B) from the bracket (C).
NOTE: While separating the TPMS control unit from the bracket, add in a flat-tipped screwdriver
between the TPMS control unit and the bracket at shown aria (D) to release the hook (E), and slide
out the TPMS control unit from the bracket.
5. Replace the bracket if necessary. 6. Install the TPMS control unit in the reverse order of
removal.
NOTE: Make sure the TPMS control unit is properly installed. You will hear a click when the TPMS
control unit is securely mounted on the bracket.
7. Connect the HDS, and memorize the pressure sensor IDs using the TPMS sensor initializer tool.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Steering and Suspension > Relays and Modules
- Wheels and Tires > Tire Pressure Monitor Receiver / Transponder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins
> Tire Monitor System - Usage of TPMS Sensor Tools
Tire Pressure Monitor Receiver / Transponder: Technical Service Bulletins Tire Monitor System -
Usage of TPMS Sensor Tools
06-072
(Supersedes 06-072, dated January 5, 2007, to update the information marked by the black bars
and asterisks)
*VEHICLES AFFECTED
INTRODUCTION
Beginning with some 2007 models, Honda is using a second type of TPMS (tire pressure
monitoring system) that does not use initiators like the 2006 and earlier
TPMS.
^ Are mounted on the inside of the rim, connected to the valve stem.
^ Use a wireless transmission to send tire pressure and temperature information to the TPMS unit.
^ Use non-replaceable batteries. To save battery life, the sensors turn on only when the vehicle is
being used.
*The first type of TPMS (all vehicles through 2006) uses initiators mounted above each wheel.
When you turn the ignition switch to ON (II), the initiators send out a low frequency signal to turn on
the TPMS sensors. The initiator, in conjunction with the TPMS control unit, determines the tire
location. For example, if the right front tire is low on air, the customer sees the low tire pressure
indicator and an indiction that the right front tire is low on pressure. The initiator-type TPMS, or
location-type TPMS (in the HDS), is used on the 2005-08 Pilot, the 2006-08 Ridgeline, and the
2005-08 Odyssey Touring models.*
The new TPMS does not use initiators. The TPMS sensors have a built-in acceleration sensor that
turns on the TPMS sensors when the vehicle speed reaches about 25 mph. Without an initiator, the
TPMS control unit cannot determine tire location. For example, if the right front tire is low on air, the
customer sees only the low pressure indicator and must check all four tires to find the problem tire.
During diagnosis, the TPMS control unit provides a code for each tire.
NOTE:
^ During diagnosis, the TPMS control unit gives a tire number, but you need to do the sensor
position check to find the location of the tire number.
^ Use with HDS software version 2.011.010 or later. The initiator-less TPMS, or no location-type
TPMS, is used on vehicles affected by this bulletin.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Steering and Suspension > Relays and Modules
- Wheels and Tires > Tire Pressure Monitor Receiver / Transponder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins
> Tire Monitor System - Usage of TPMS Sensor Tools > Page 397
A TPMS sensor tool is used for troubleshooting and replacing the TPMS sensors. See TOOL
DESCRIPTION for more information.
WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION
None.
TOOL INFORMATION
TOOL DESCRIPTION
The TPMS sensor tool is a wireless tool that is used with the HDS for troubleshooting (sensor
position check) and for replacing TPMS sensors or the control unit (sensor ID learning).
General use:
^ Always make sure the TPMS sensor tool is set to low power unless otherwise instructed.
*^ Make sure there are no vehicles or other wheels with TPMS sensors within 10 feet of the vehicle
you are working on.
^ Make sure the batteries are in good condition and secure in the case. Refer to ServiceNews
article A07050D, Keep Those TPMS Sensor Tool Batteries From Popping Loose, for more
information.*
^ Turn on the TPMS sensor tool by following the HDS instructions. There are two different
wavelengths used, and there are two ways to turn on the TPMS sensor tool. If the TPMS sensor
tool is not turned on correctly, you won't be able to troubleshoot the vehicle or do the sensor ID
learning procedure.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Steering and Suspension > Relays and Modules
- Wheels and Tires > Tire Pressure Monitor Receiver / Transponder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins
> Tire Monitor System - Usage of TPMS Sensor Tools > Page 398
^ Turn off the TPMS sensor tool by pressing and holding the small button as shown until the green
light in the button turns off. The tool will also turn off after 5 minutes of inactivity.
NOTE:
Offset your finger, or use just your nail to push the buttons, so you can see the light in the buttons.
Two AC adapters are included in the TPMS sensor tool kit. The 900 AC adapter is for the battery
charger. Use the straight AC adapter to power the TPMS sensor tool when charged batteries are
not available.
NOTE:
^ The AC adapter does not charge the batteries in the TPMS sensor tool.
^ Remove the batteries from the TPMS sensor tool when using the AC adapter.
There are two ways to charge the batteries. The method to use depends on the batteries' state of
charge. For brand new or fully discharged batteries:
1. Connect the AC adapter to the charger (make sure you use the AC adapter with the 90° bend).
2. Insert the batteries into the charger. Make sure you note the polarity (direction) of the batteries.
3. Plug the charger into a power outlet. The LEDs turn red, and quick charging begins.
NOTE:
^ If the LEDs do not come on, check that the batteries are properly installed. If the LEDs still do not
come on, replace the batteries.
^ If you press the red button while the batteries are charging, the battery discharge mode begins.
Press the red button again within 30 seconds, and the charger switches back to its quick charge
mode.
^ When the LEDs turn green, the batteries are charged, and the battery charger automatically
switches to trickle charge mode.
^ Remove the batteries from the charger when it is not plugged in.
For charging batteries when you don't know the state of charge:
1. Connect the AC adapter to the charger (make sure you use the AC adapter with the 90° bend).
2. Insert the batteries into the charger. Make sure you note the polarity (direction) of the batteries.
4. Press the red button once to start the discharge mode. The LEDs blink red.
NOTE:
^ If the LEDs do not come on, check that the batteries are properly installed. If the LEDs still do not
come on, replace the batteries.
^ If you press the red button a second time within 30 seconds, the battery quick charge mode
begins.
^ Once the batteries are discharged, the LEDs turn solid red and the battery quick charge mode
begins.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Steering and Suspension > Relays and Modules
- Wheels and Tires > Tire Pressure Monitor Receiver / Transponder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins
> Tire Monitor System - Usage of TPMS Sensor Tools > Page 399
^ When the LEDs turn green, the batteries are charged, and the battery charger automatically
switches to trickle charge mode.
^ Remove the batteries from the charger when it is not plugged in.
When the TPMS sets a DTC, it refers to Tire 1, Tire 2, Tire 3, or Tire 4. In the service manual, the
tire number is the sensor number. For example, Tire 2 is sensor 2.
However, the tire number is not the tire position. To diagnose or repair the vehicle, do the sensor
position check to find the location of the problem tire (or sensor) on the vehicle.
7. In the System Selection Menu, select TPMS, then select the Enter button.
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- Wheels and Tires > Tire Pressure Monitor Receiver / Transponder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins
> Tire Monitor System - Usage of TPMS Sensor Tools > Page 401
8. In the Mode menu, select Functional Tests, then select the Enter button.
9. In the Functional Test menu, select Sensor Position Check, then select the Enter button.
*10. On the Sensor Position Check screen, turn on the TPMS sensor tool by following the
on-screen instructions. (The Accord is shown on the sample
screen.)*
NOTE:
Each model is different. Turning on the TPMS sensor tool incorrectly could lead to incorrect
diagnosis and repair.
Once the TPMS sensor tool is turned on, select the YES button.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Steering and Suspension > Relays and Modules
- Wheels and Tires > Tire Pressure Monitor Receiver / Transponder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins
> Tire Monitor System - Usage of TPMS Sensor Tools > Page 402
11. Follow the instructions on the Sensor Position Check screen. When prompted, go to the left
front wheel, then select the Enter button.
12. Wait about 5 seconds, and the Sensor Position Check screen changes to an operation
progress bar.
* NOTE:
^ Wait for the timer to start. When the blue bar appears, use the TPMS sensor tool.*
^ If the sensor IDs appear without the TPMS sensor tool button being pushed, a TPMS sensor is
transmitting. Select the Exit button, wait 5 minutes for the sensor to go to sleep, then follow the
on-screen prompts.
13. Point and hold the TPMS sensor tool 10 to 20 inches from the left front wheel valve stem. Press
and hold the large transmit button for up to 1 minute. The button should flash red. The TPMS
sensor tool sends a signal to the TPMS sensor to turn on and broadcast the TPMS sensor ID to the
TPMS control unit.
14. Watch for the TPMS sensor IDs to appear on the HDS screen. The TPMS control unit must
read the sensor ID five times to complete the learning
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- Wheels and Tires > Tire Pressure Monitor Receiver / Transponder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins
> Tire Monitor System - Usage of TPMS Sensor Tools > Page 403
procedure.
NOTE:
15. The TPMS sensor ID learning changes to the following screen once the procedure is complete.
Select the Enter button.
NOTE:
If the sensor does not respond (no sensor IDs are displayed), rotate the tire one-quarter turn and
try again. If the TPMS sensor does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, switch the tire to a
known-good location and try again. If the TPMS sensor still does not respond after one full rotation
of the tire, replace the TPMS sensor.
16. When prompted, go to the left rear wheel, then select the Enter button.
17. The TPMS sensor ID learning procedure goes through the same steps as the left front wheel
(see steps 12 thru 15). When the timer starts (the blue bar appears), point and hold the TPMS
sensor tool 10 to 20 inches from the left rear wheel valve stem. Press and hold the large transmit
button for up to 1 minute. The button should flash red. The TPMS sensor tool sends a signal to the
TPMS sensor to turn on and broadcast the TPMS sensor
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Steering and Suspension > Relays and Modules
- Wheels and Tires > Tire Pressure Monitor Receiver / Transponder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins
> Tire Monitor System - Usage of TPMS Sensor Tools > Page 404
ID to the TPMS control unit.
NOTE:
^ If the sensor IDs appear without the TPMS sensor tool button being pushed, a TPMS sensor is
transmitting. Select the Exit button, wait 5 minutes for the sensors to go to sleep, then follow the
on-screen prompts.
^ If the sensor does not respond (no sensor IDs are displayed), rotate the tire one-quarter turn and
try again. If the TPMS sensor does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, switch the tire to a
known-good location and try again. If the TPMS sensor still does not respond after one full rotation
of the tire, replace the TPMS sensor.
18. When prompted, go to the right rear wheel, then select the Enter button.
19. The TPMS sensor ID learning procedure goes through the same steps as the left front wheel
(see steps 12 thru 15). When the timer starts (the blue bar appears), point and hold the TPMS
sensor tool 10 to 20 inches from the right rear wheel valve stem. Press and hold the large transmit
button for up to 1 minute. The button should flash red. The TPMS sensor tool sends a signal to the
TPMS sensor to turn on and broadcast the TPMS sensor ID to the TPMS control unit.
NOTE:
^ If the sensor IDs appear without the TPMS sensor tool button being pushed, a TPMS sensor is
transmitting. Select the Exit button, wait 5 minutes for the sensors to go to sleep, then follow the
on-screen prompts.
^ If the sensor does not respond (no sensor IDs are displayed), rotate the tire one-quarter turn and
try again. If the TPMS sensor does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, switch the tire to a
known-good location and try again. If the TPMS sensor still does not respond after one full rotation
of the tire, replace the TPMS sensor.
20. When prompted, go to the right front wheel, then select the Enter button.
21. The TPMS sensor ID learning procedure goes through the same steps as the left front wheel
(see steps 12 thru 15). When the timer starts (the blue bar appears), point and hold the TPMS
sensor tool 10 to 20 inches from the right front wheel valve stem. Press and hold the large transmit
button for up to 1 minute. The button should flash red. The TPMS sensor tool sends a signal to the
TPMS sensor to turn on and broadcast the TPMS
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Steering and Suspension > Relays and Modules
- Wheels and Tires > Tire Pressure Monitor Receiver / Transponder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins
> Tire Monitor System - Usage of TPMS Sensor Tools > Page 405
NOTE:
^ If the sensor IDs appear without the TPMS sensor tool button being pushed, a TPMS sensor is
transmitting. Select the Exit button, wait 5 minutes for the sensors to go to sleep, then follow the
on-screen prompts.
^ If the sensor does not respond (no sensor IDs are displayed), rotate the tire one-quarter turn and
try again. If the TPMS sensor does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, switch the tire to a
known-good location and try again. If the TPMS sensor still does not respond after one full rotation
of the tire, replace the TPMS sensor.
22. The sensor position check is complete. Using the DTC(s) and the information on the Sensor
Position Check screen, locate the problem tire.
If the vehicle has DTC 22-1,this means that the problem is in tire 2 (sensor 2).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Steering and Suspension > Relays and Modules
- Wheels and Tires > Tire Pressure Monitor Receiver / Transponder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins
> Tire Monitor System - Usage of TPMS Sensor Tools > Page 406
You must refer to the Sensor Position Check screen to see what location tire 2 is in. Do not
assume it is in position 2 (left rear tire).
According to the Sensor Position Check screen tire 2 is in position 1, the left front tire.
SENSOR ID LEARNING
NOTE:
Even if you replace only one sensor, the Sensor ID Learning procedure must be done to all four
wheels.
6. In the Select Mode menu, select Honda Systems, and select the Enter button.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Steering and Suspension > Relays and Modules
- Wheels and Tires > Tire Pressure Monitor Receiver / Transponder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins
> Tire Monitor System - Usage of TPMS Sensor Tools > Page 408
7. In the System Selection Menu, select TPMS, then select the Enter button.
8. In the Mode Menu, select Sensor ID Learning, then select the Enter button.
NOTE:
Make sure there are no other vehicles or other wheels with TPMS sensors within 10 feet of the
vehicle you are working on.
10. On the TPMS Sensor ID Learning screen, turn on the TPMS sensor tool by following the
on-screen instructions. The Accord is shown on the sample screen.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Steering and Suspension > Relays and Modules
- Wheels and Tires > Tire Pressure Monitor Receiver / Transponder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins
> Tire Monitor System - Usage of TPMS Sensor Tools > Page 409
NOTE:
Each model is different. Turning on the TPMS sensor tool incorrectly could lead to incorrect
diagnosis and repair.
Once the TPMS sensor tool is turned on, select the YES button.
11. Follow the instructions on the TPMS Sensor ID Learning screen. When prompted, go to the left
front wheel, then select the Enter button.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Steering and Suspension > Relays and Modules
- Wheels and Tires > Tire Pressure Monitor Receiver / Transponder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins
> Tire Monitor System - Usage of TPMS Sensor Tools > Page 410
12. Wait about 5 seconds, and the TPMS Sensor ID Learning screen should change to an
operation progress bar.
NOTE:
^ Wait for the timer to start. When you see the blue bar, use the TPMS sensor tool.
^ If the sensor IDs appear without the TPMS sensor tool button being pushed, a TPMS sensor is
transmitting. Select the Exit button, wait 5 minutes for the sensor to go to sleep, then follow the
on-screen prompts.
13. Point and hold the TPMS sensor tool 10 to 20 inches from the left front wheel valve stem. Press
and hold the large transmit button for up to 1 minute. The button should flash red. The TPMS
sensor tool sends a signal to the TPMS sensor to turn on and broadcast the TPMS sensor ID to the
TPMS control unit.
14. Watch for the TPMS sensor IDs to appear on the HDS screen The TPMS control unit must read
the sensor ID five times to complete the learning procedure.
NOTE:
15. The TPMS sensor ID learning changes to the following screen once the procedure is complete.
Select the Enter button.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Steering and Suspension > Relays and Modules
- Wheels and Tires > Tire Pressure Monitor Receiver / Transponder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins
> Tire Monitor System - Usage of TPMS Sensor Tools > Page 411
NOTE:
If the sensor does not respond (no sensor IDs are displayed), rotate the tire one-quarter turn and
try again. If the TPMS sensor does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, switch the tire to a
known-good location and try again. If the TPMS sensor still does not respond after one full rotation
of the tire, replace the TPMS sensor.
16. When prompted, go to the left rear wheel, then select the Enter button.
17. The TPMS sensor ID learning procedure goes through the same steps as the left front wheel
(see steps 12 thru 15). When the timer starts (the blue bar appears), point and hold the TPMS
sensor tool 10 to 20 inches from the left rear wheel valve stem. Press and hold the large transmit
button for up to 1 minute. The button should flash red. The TPMS sensor tool sends a signal to the
TPMS sensor to turn on and broadcast the TPMS sensor ID to the TPMS control unit.
NOTE:
^ If the sensor IDs appear without the TPMS sensor tool button being pushed, a TPMS sensor is
transmitting. Select the Exit button, wait 5 minutes for the sensor to go to sleep, then follow the
on-screen prompts.
^ If the sensor does not respond (no sensor IDs are displayed), rotate the tire one-quarter turn and
try again. If the TPMS sensor does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, switch the tire to a
known-good location and try again. If the TPMS sensor still does not respond after one full rotation
of the tire, replace the TPMS sensor.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Steering and Suspension > Relays and Modules
- Wheels and Tires > Tire Pressure Monitor Receiver / Transponder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins
> Tire Monitor System - Usage of TPMS Sensor Tools > Page 412
18. When prompted, go to the right rear wheel, then select the Enter button.
19. The TPMS sensor ID learning procedure goes through the same steps as the left front wheel
(see steps 12 thru 15). When the timer starts (the blue bar appears), point and hold the TPMS
sensor tool 10 to 20 inches from the right rear wheel valve stem. Press and hold the large transmit
button for up to 1 minute. The button should flash red. The TPMS sensor tool sends a signal to the
TPMS sensor to turn on and broadcast the TPMS sensor ID to the TPMS control unit.
NOTE:
^ If the sensor IDs appear without the TPMS sensor tool button being pushed, a TPMS sensor is
transmitting. Select the Exit button, wait 5 minutes for the sensor to go to sleep, then follow the
on-screen prompts.
^ If the sensor does not respond (no sensor IDs are displayed), rotate the tire one-quarter turn and
try again. If the TPMS sensor does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, switch the tire to a
known-good location and try again. If the TPMS sensor still does not respond after one full rotation
of the tire, replace the TPMS sensor.
20. When prompted, go to the right front wheel, then select the Enter button.
21. The TPMS sensor ID learning procedure goes through the same steps as the left front wheel
(see steps 12 thru 15). When the timer starts (the blue bar appears), point and hold the TPMS
sensor tool 10 to 20 inches from the right front wheel valve stem. Press and hold the large transmit
button for up to 1 minute. The button should flash red. The TPMS sensor tool sends a signal to the
TPMS sensor to turn on and broadcast the TPMS sensor ID to the TPMS control unit.
NOTE:
^ If the sensor IDs appear without the TPMS sensor tool button being pushed, a TPMS sensor is
transmitting. Select the Exit button, wait 5 minutes for the sensor to go to sleep, then follow the
on-screen prompts.
^ If the sensor does not respond (no sensor IDs are displayed), rotate the tire one-quarter turn and
try again. If the TPMS sensor does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, switch the tire to a
known-good location and try again. If the TPMS sensor still does not respond after one full rotation
of the tire, replace the TPMS sensor.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Steering and Suspension > Relays and Modules
- Wheels and Tires > Tire Pressure Monitor Receiver / Transponder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins
> Tire Monitor System - Usage of TPMS Sensor Tools > Page 413
22. The sensor ID learning procedure is complete. Select the Enter button to continue to register
the TPMS sensor IDs in the TPMS unit.
23. The low tire pressure indicator is flashing and requires road-testing the vehicle. On the TPMS
Sensor ID Learning screen, select the Enter button.
24. Drive the vehicle for 2 minutes above 30 mph, or until the low tire pressure indicator goes off.
Once the indicator goes off, stop the vehicle.
25. In the Mode Menu, select the Data List, and then select the Enter button. Check the tire
pressure at all four tires to confirm that the TPMS control unit is reading the correct tire pressures.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Steering and Suspension > Relays and Modules
- Wheels and Tires > Tire Pressure Monitor Receiver / Transponder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins
> Tire Monitor System - Usage of TPMS Sensor Tools > Page 414
26. Return to the Mode Menu, select DTCs, then select the Enter button.
Disclaimer
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Transmission and Drivetrain > Relays and
Modules - A/T > Control Module, A/T > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Pinout Values and Diagnostic
Parameters
^ Honda interface module (HIM) and an iN workstation with HDS and CM update software
NOTE: ^
Use this procedure when you need to update the PCM during troubleshooting procedures.
^ Make sure HDS/HIM has the latest software version downloaded from the iN (interactive
network).
^ To ensure the latest program is installed, do a PCM update whenever the PCM is substituted or
replaced.
^ You cannot update a PCM with the program it already has. It will only accept a new program.
^ Before you update the PCM, make sure the battery is fully charged, and connect a jumper battery
(not a battery charger) to maintain system voltage.
^ Never turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0) while updating the PCM. If you turn the ignition switch
to LOCK (0) before completion, the PCM can be damaged.
^ To prevent PCM damage, do not operate anything electrical (audio system, brakes, A/C, power
windows, moon roof (if equipped), door locks, etc.) during the update.
^ If you need to diagnose the Honda interface module (HIM) because the HIM's red 3) light came
on or was flashing during the update, leave the ignition switch in the ON (II) position when you
disconnect the HIM from the data link connector (DLC). This will prevent PCM damage.
^ High temperature in the engine compartment might cause the PCM to become too hot to run the
update. If the engine has been running before this procedure, open the hood and cool the engine
compartment.
1. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), but do not start the engine. 2. Connect the HDS to the DLC
(A) located behind the driver's dashboard lower cover.
3. Make sure the HDS communicates with the PCM. if it does not, go to the DLC circuit
troubleshooting. 4. Select the INSPECTION MENU with the HDS. 5. Select the ETCS TEST, then
select the TP POSITION CHECK, and follow the HDS screen prompts.
6. Exit the HDS, then select the CM update, and follow the screen prompts to update the PCM. 7. If
the PCM has the latest software, disconnect the HDS/HIM from the DLC, and go back to the
procedure that you were doing. If the software in
the PCM is not the latest, follow the instructions on the screen. If prompted to choose the PGM-FI
system or the A/T system, make sure you update both.
NOTE: If the PCM update procedure requires you to cool the PCM, follow the screen prompts. If
you run into a problem (programming takes over 15 minutes, status bar goes over 100 D or
immobilizer indicator flashes, HDS tablet freezes, etc.) during the update procedure, follow these
steps to minimize the chance of damaging the PCM:
^ Reconnect the HDS to the DLC, and try the update procedure again.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Transmission and Drivetrain > Relays and
Modules - A/T > Control Module, A/T > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Pinout Values and Diagnostic
Parameters > Page 425
8. If the TP POSITION CHECK failed in step 5, clean the throttle body. 9. Do the PCM idle learn
procedure.
10. Do the crank (CKP) learn procedure.
^ Honda interface module (HIM) and an iN workstation with HDS and CM update software
Use this procedure when you need to substitute a known-good PCM during troubleshooting
procedures.
1. Make sure you have the anti-theft code for the audio system or the navigation system (if
equipped), then write down the audio presets. 2. Connect the HDS to the DLC (A) located behind
the driver's dashboard lower cover.
3. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 4. Make sure the HDS communicates with the PCM. If it does
not, go to the DLC circuit troubleshooting. If you did the DLC circuit troubleshooting,
skip steps 5 thru 9, then clean the throttle body after substituting the PCM.
5. Select the INSPECTION MENU with the HDS. 6. Select the TP POSITION CHECK in the ETCS
TEST with the HDS.
7. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). 8. Remove the battery. 9. Remove the PCM cover (A).
10. Remove the bolts (D), and remove the PCM (E).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Transmission and Drivetrain > Relays and
Modules - A/T > Control Module, A/T > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Pinout Values and Diagnostic
Parameters > Page 426
NOTE: PCM connectors A, B, and C have symbols (A = square, B = triangle, C = circle) embossed
on them for identification.
12. Install the PCM and the battery in the reverse order of removal. 13. Turn the ignition switch to
ON (II).
NOTE: DTC P0630 "VIN not Programmed or Mismatch" will be stored because VIN has not been
programmed into the PCM. Ignore it, and continue this procedure.
14. Input the VIN to the PCM with the HDS. 15. Update the PCM if it does not have the latest
software. 16. Select the IMMOBILIZER SYSTEM with the HDS. 17. Enter the immobilizer code with
the PCM replacement procedure in the HDS; this allows you to start the engine. 18. Reset the PCM
with the HDS. 19. If the TP POSITION CHECK indicates FAILED in step 6, clean the throttle body.
20. Do the PCM idle learn procedure. See: How to Update the PCM 21. Do the crank (CKP) learn
procedure. 22. Enter the anti-theft code for the audio system or the navigation system (if equipped),
enter the audio presets. Set the clock (on vehicles without
navigation).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Transmission and Drivetrain > Relays and
Modules - A/T > Shift Interlock Control Module > Component Information > Locations
171. Shift Lock Solenoid Cut Relay And Start Relay (Honda Accessory: Canada A/T)
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Windows and Glass > Heated Glass Element
Relay > Component Information > Locations
Use this chart to identify the type of relay, then do the test listed for it.
Normally-open type
- There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when battery positive terminal
is connected to the No. 4 terminal, and battery negative terminal is connected to the No. 3 terminal.
- There should be no continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power is
disconnected.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Windows and Glass > Power Window Control
Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Body - Power Window Diagnostics Revision
Power Window Control Module: Technical Service Bulletins Body - Power Window Diagnostics
Revision
10-011
March 5, 2010
Service Manual Update: Power Window Goes Up and Reverses On Its Own, Is Slow to Open and
Close, or Squeals, Creaks, Clunks, or Clicks
BACKGROUND
The information in this service bulletin addresses three power window problems that are not
currently covered in the service manuals.
VEHICLES AFFECTED
SYMPTOM 1
When using the auto-up function, the driver's or front passenger's window goes up and then
reverses on its own.
PROBABLE CAUSE
The power window control unit needs to be reset, or the run channel is damaged/dirty.
NOTE:
Do the power window control unit reset procedure first. If the window still doesn't work, go to
Symptom 2.
REPAIR PROCEDURE
NOTE:
You must do the manual reset from the power window switch at the affected window. For example,
if you're resetting the front passenger's power window control unit, do it from the front passenger's
power window switch, not the driver's power window master switch.
1. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II).
2. Lower the window all the way down with the power window switch.
NOTE:
Do steps 4 thru 7 within 5 seconds of each other. Do these steps a total of four times in a row.
These steps clear the control unit's memory.
NOTE:
Make sure the auto-up feature doesn't work. If it does, do steps 4 thru 7 again, paying close
attention to the 5-second time limit for up to three more times for each series of steps.
8. Lower the window all the way down with the power window switch.
9. Pull up and hold the power window switch until the window goes all the way up, then keep
holding the switch for 1 second.
NOTE:
Make sure the auto-up/down feature works correctly by lowering and raising the window with the
power window switch. If it doesn't work correctly, repeat the manual reset several times, paying
close attention to the 5-second time limit. If it still doesn't work, troubleshoot the power window
circuit. Then continue with Symptom 2.
SYMPTOM 2
PROBABLE CAUSE
REQUIRED MATERIALS
NOTE:
Aftermarket window tinting will also cause the window to move slower and is not covered by the
manufacturer's warranty. No repair attempts should be made if the window has aftermarket tinting.
1. Compare the up and down speed of the affected window to another like vehicle:
^ If the speed is the same as the other vehicle, no further troubleshooting is required.
^ If the speed is not the same, remove the door panel and the door glass, then check the window
regulator speed.
^ If the speed is the same as it was with the glass in place, replace the window regulator.
NOTE:
When evaluating regulator performance without the glass, never allow the regulator to travel to the
full up position because damage can occur to the regulator.
3. Reinstall the glass into the door without bolting it to the regulator, then manually slide it through
its range of travel and check for excessive
resistance:
4. Inspect the run channel alignment, both inside and outside the door. Pay close attention just
below the door skin; this is a common area for the run
channel to be pinched.
^ If the run channel is pinched, replace it, then adjust the run channels and the glass as needed.
5. Clean the run channel using a soapy water solution, then apply Shin-Etsu grease. You may also
need to clean the portion of the run channel within the
door.
SYMPTOM 3
REQUIRED MATERIALS
REPAIR PROCEDURE
^ If the noise is the same, no repair is needed. Advise the customer that some noise is a normal
characteristic.
4. Unbolt the glass from the regulator, then manually slide it through its travel to check for
excessive resistance.
5. Clean the run channel using a soapy water solution, then apply Shin-Etsu grease inside the
channel. You may also need to clean the portion of the run
^ If the window operates normally after cleaning and applying grease, no further action is required.
6. Inspect the run channel alignment, both inside and outside the door. Pay close attention just
below the door skin; this is a common area for the run
channel to be pinched.
Resetting the driver's power window is required when any of the following have occurred:
- Power is removed from the power window control unit while the power window timer is ON.
1. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). 2. Move the driver's window all the way down by using the
driver's window DOWN switch.
4. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (O). 5. Push and hold the driver's window DOWN switch. 6.
Turn the ignition switch ON (II). 7. Release the driver's window DOWN switch. 8. Repeat steps 4-7
three more times. 9. Wait 1 second.
10. Confirm that AUTO UP and AUTO DOWN do not work. If AUTO UP and DOWN work, go back
to step 1. If they do not, go to step 11. 11. Move the driver's window all the way down by holding
the driver's window DOWN switch. 12. Pull up and hold the driver's window UP switch to the AUTO
UP position until the window reaches the fully closed position, then continue to hold
the switch for 1 second.
13. Confirm that the power window master switch is reset by using the driver's window AUTO UP
and DOWN function.
If the window still does not work in AUTO, repeat the procedure several times, paying close
attention to the 5 second time limit between steps. If it still does not work, refer to the master switch
input test:
- 4-door
- 2-door
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Windows and Glass > Power Window Relay >
Component Information > Locations
170. Moonroof Cut Relay And Power Window Cut Relay (Honda Accessory: Canada A/T)
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Windows and Glass > Power Window Relay >
Component Information > Locations > Page 452
Power Window Relay: Testing and Inspection
Use this chart to identify the type of relay, then do the test listed for it.
Normally-open type
- There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when battery positive terminal
is connected to the No. 4 terminal, and battery negative terminal is connected to the No. 3 terminal.
- There should be no continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power is
disconnected.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Wiper and Washer Systems > Wiper Relay >
Component Information > Locations
1. Remove the steering wheel. 2. Remove the audio remote switch. 3. Install the audio remote
switch in the reverse order of removal.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Accessories and Optional Equipment > Voice
Activation Switch > Component Information > Locations
NOTE:
2. From the trunk compartment, disconnect the fuel fill door switch connector (A), and detach the
harness clip (B).
3. Open the fuel fill door, and from the wheel arch, remove the fuel fill door switch (A) by turning it
90 ° from the fuel receptacle adapter (B).
4. From the wheel arch, detach the clips, and remove the grommet (A), then pull the fuel fill door
switch cable (B) out through the hole in the body.
5. Install the switch cable in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
- Check for damages or stress-whitened clips, and replace them with new ones.
- Align the marks (A) on the sensor cable (B) with the cable clips (C) and grommet (D) as shown.
- Make sure the fuel fill door switch connector is plugged in properly.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Body and Frame > Fuel Door Switch >
Component Information > Locations > Page 484
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Body and Frame > Hood Switch / Sensor >
Hood Sensor/Switch (For Alarm) > Component Information > Locations > Component Locations
199. Door Lock Actuator/Knob Switch, Driver's (LX, GX, EX, Si; Canada: DX-G)
200. Door Lock Actuator/Knob Switch, Front Passenger's (LX, GX, EX, Si; Canada: DX-G)
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Body and Frame > Power Door Lock Switch
> Component Information > Locations > Page 499
201. Door Lock Actuator/Knob Switch, Left Rear (4-door: LX, GX, EX, Si, Canada DX-G)
202. Door Lock Actuator/Knob Switch, Right Rear (4-door: LX, GX, EX, Si, Canada DX-G)
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Body and Frame > Power Mirror Switch >
Component Information > Locations
Power Mirror Switch: Locations
Front Door
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Body and Frame > Power Mirror Switch >
Component Information > Locations > Page 505
Doors
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Body and Frame > Power Mirror Switch >
Component Information > Locations > Page 506
212. Power Mirror Switch (USA: LX, GX, EX, Si; Canada)
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Body and Frame > Power Mirror Switch >
Component Information > Locations > Page 507
2-door
1. Remove the driver's dashboard lower cover. 2. Disconnect the 13P connector from the power
mirror switch (A).
3. Check for continuity between the terminals in each switch position according to the table.
4. If the continuity is not as specified, remove the screws and replace the power mirror switch.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Body and Frame > Power Trunk / Liftgate
Lock Switch > Component Information > Locations > Component Locations
Power Trunk / Liftgate Lock Switch: Component Locations
127. Trunk Key Cylinder Switch (USA: LX, GX, 4-door EX, 4-door Si)
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Body and Frame > Seat Heater Switch >
Component Information > Locations
Switch Test/Replacement
1. Remove the center console front panel. 2. Disconnect the 6P (or 7P*) connector from the seat
heater switch (A), then remove the switch.
3. Check for continuity between the terminals in each switch position according to the table.
Check for continuity between the terminals (1) and (2) with the float in the down position and in the
up position.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Brakes and Traction Control > Braking
Sensor/Switch > Component Information > Locations
Pedal Height
1. Turn the brake pedal position switch (A) counterclockwise, and pull it back until it is no longer
touching the brake pedal.
2. Pull back the carpet and find the cutout in the insulation. Lift up the insulation cutout and
measure the pedal height (B) at the middle of the left
Standard pedal height (with carpet move aside): M/T: 153 mm (6 in.) A/T 158 mm (6 1/4 in.)
3. Loosen the pushrod locknut (A), and screw the pushrod (B) in or out with pliers until the standard
pedal height from the floor is reached. After
adjustment, tighten the locknut firmly. Do not adjust the pedal height with the pushrod pressed.
4. Lift up on the brake pedal by hand. Push in the brake pedal position switch until its plunger is
fully pressed (threaded end (A) touching the pad (B)
on the pedal arm). Then, turn the brake pedal position switch 45° clockwise to lock it. The gap
between the brake pedal position switch and the pad is automatically adjusted to 0.7 mm (0.028
in.) by locking the switch. Make sure the brake lights go off when the pedal is released.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Brakes and Traction Control > Braking
Sensor/Switch > Component Information > Locations > Page 538
5. Check the brake pedal free play.
1. With the ignition switch at LOCK (0), inspect the pedal free play (A) at the pedal pad (B) by
pushing the pedal by hand. If the brake pedal free
NOTE: If both the ABS indicator and the brake system indicator come on at the same time, check
the ABS or VSA system first.
1. Remove the center console. 2. Disconnect the parking brake switch connector (A) from the
parking brake switch (B).
3. Check for continuity between the switch terminal (C) and body ground.
NOTE: If the parking brake switch and fluid level switch are OK, but the brake system indicator
does not function, do the gauge control module test.
NOTE: Do not damage or drop the combination switch as the steering angle sensor is sensitive to
shock and vibration.
1. Remove the steering wheel. 2. Remove the steering column covers and the cable reel. 3.
Remove the combination switch assembly. 4. Remove the combination light switch (A) and the
wiper/washer switch (B).
5. Replace the combination switch (C). 6. Install the combination switch in the reverse order of
removal.
NOTE: ^
Do not remove the steering angle sensor from the combination switch body.
^ When installing the cable reel, set the turn signal canceling sleeve position.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Brakes and Traction Control > Traction
Control Switch > Component Information > Locations
1. Remove the driver's dashboard lower cover. 2. Push out the VSA OFF switch (A) from the back
of the instrument panel.
3. Disconnect the VSA OFF switch 5P connector (B). 4. Check for continuity between VSA OFF
switch 5P connector terminals No. 1 and No. 2. There should be continuity when the switch is
pressed,
5. Check for continuity between VSA OFF switch 5P connector terminals No. 4 and No. 5. There
should be continuity at all times.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Brakes and Traction Control > Wheel Speed
Sensor > Component Information > Locations > Component Locations
Front
1. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). 2. Release the clamp (A), then disconnect the wheel speed
sensor connector (B).
3. Remove the clips, the bolt, and the wheel speed sensor (C). 4. Install the wheel speed sensor in
the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
^ If the wheel speed sensor comes in contact with the wheel bearing, it is faulty.
5. Start the engine, and check that the ABS and the VSA indicators go off. 6. Test-drive the vehicle,
and check that the ABS and the VSA indicators do not come on.
Rear
1. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). 2. Release the clamp (A), then disconnect the wheel speed
sensor connector (B).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Brakes and Traction Control > Wheel Speed
Sensor > Component Information > Locations > Page 562
3. Remove the clips, the bolt, and the wheel speed sensor (C). 4. Install the wheel speed sensor in
the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
^ If the wheel speed sensor comes in contact with the hub bearing unit, it is faulty.
5. Start the engine, and check that the ABS and the VSA indicators go off. 6. Test-drive the vehicle,
and check that the ABS and the VSA indicators do not come on.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Brakes and Traction Control > Yaw Rate
Sensor > Component Information > Locations
NOTE: Do not damage or drop the sensor as it is sensitive. Do not use power tools.
1. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). 2. Remove the center console. 3. Remove the yaw
rate-lateral acceleration sensor (A) mounting bolts.
4. Pull out the yaw rate-lateral acceleration sensor, then disconnect the sensor connector (B). 5.
Install the sensor in the reverse order of removal. 6. Do the VSA sensor neutral position
memorization.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Cooling System > Engine - Coolant
Temperature Sensor/Switch > Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer) > Component Information > Locations
ECT sensors 1 and 2 are temperature dependent resistors (thermistors). The resistance decreases
as the engine coolant temperature increases.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Cooling System > Engine - Coolant
Temperature Sensor/Switch > Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer) > Component Information > Service and
Repair > ECT Sensor 1 Replacement
Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer): Service and Repair ECT Sensor 1
Replacement
1. Drain the engine coolant. 2. Disconnect the ECT sensor 1 2P connector (A).
3. Remove ECT sensor 1 (B). 4. Install the parts in the reverse order of removal with a new O-ring
(C), then refill the radiator with engine coolant.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Cooling System > Engine - Coolant
Temperature Sensor/Switch > Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer) > Component Information > Service and
Repair > ECT Sensor 1 Replacement > Page 575
Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer): Service and Repair ECT Sensor 2
Replacement
1. Drain the engine coolant. 2. Remove the splash shield. 3. Disconnect the ECT sensor 2 2P
connector (A).
4. Remove ECT sensor 2 (B). 5. Install the parts in the reverse order of removal with a new O-ring
(C), then refill the radiator with engine coolant. 6. Install the splash shield.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Cruise Control > Clutch Switch, Cruise
Control > Component Information > Locations
2. Remove the clutch pedal position switch. 3. Check for continuity between the terminals
according to the table.
- If the continuity is not as specified, replace the clutch pedal position switch.
- If OK, install the clutch pedal position switch, and adjust the pedal height.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Cruise Control > Cruise Control Switch >
Component Information > Locations
SRS components are located in this area. Review the SRS component locations, and precautions
and procedures, before doing repairs or service.
1. Remove the driver's airbag. 2. Disconnect the connectors (A), then remove the steering wheel
trim (B).
4. Check for continuity between the terminals in each switch position according to the table.
- If there is continuity,and it matches the table, but switch failure occurred on the cruise control
input test, check and repair the wire harness on the switch circuit.
SRS components are located in this area. Review the SRS component locations, and precautions
and procedures, before doing repairs or service.
1. Remove the driver's airbag. 2. Disconnect the connectors (A), then remove the steering wheel
trim (B).
4. Check for continuity between the terminals in each switch position according to the table.
- If there is continuity,and it matches the table, but switch failure occurred on the cruise control
input test, check and repair the wire harness on the switch circuit.
1. Remove the cowl cover and under-cowl panel. 2. Disconnect the EOP sensor connector (A).
3. Remove the bracket (B) and the EOP sensor (C). 4. Install the parts in the reverse order of
removal with a new O-ring (D).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Engine > Oil Pressure Sensor > Component
Information > Locations
1. Remove the oil pressure switch connector (A) from the engine oil pressure switch (B).
2. Check for continuity between the positive terminal (C) and the engine (ground). There should be
continuity with the engine stopped. There should
1. Disconnect the oil pressure switch connector, then remove the oil pressure switch.
2. Remove any old liquid gasket from the switch and switch mounting hole. 3. Apply very small
amount of liquid gasket to the oil pressure switch threads, then install the oil pressure switch.
NOTE: Using too much liquid gasket may cause liquid gasket to enter the oil passage or the end of
the new oil pressure switch.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - HVAC > Ambient Temperature Sensor /
Switch HVAC > Component Information > Locations
63. Outside Air Temperature Sensor (GX, EX, Si; Canada: LX)
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - HVAC > Evaporator Temperature Sensor /
Switch > Component Information > Locations > Component Locations
1. Remove the subdisplay visor and disconnect the connectors. 2. Remove the two screws and the
dash lights brightness controller-odometer select/reset switch (A).
3. Check for continuity between the terminals in each switch position according the table.
4. If the continuity is not as specified, replace the bulbs (B) or the dash lights brightness
controller-odometer select/reset switch.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Instrument Panel > Dimmer Switch >
Component Information > Locations > Page 625
1. Remove the subdisplay visor and disconnect the connectors. 2. Remove the two screws and the
dash lights brightness controller-odometer select/reset switch (A).
3. Check for continuity between the terminals in each switch position according the table.
4. If the continuity is not as specified, replace the bulbs (B) or the dash lights brightness
controller-odometer select/reset switch.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Instrument Panel > Door Switch >
Component Information > Locations
Door Switch: Locations
1. Check the No. 10 METER (7.5 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box before testing. 2. Check
for body electrical system DTCs.
3. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 4. Remove the rear seat cushion. 5. Remove the rear floor upper
cross-member (A).
7. Disconnect the fuel tank unit 4P connector (B). 8. Measure voltage between fuel tank unit 4P
connector terminals No. 1 and No. 3 with the ignition switch ON (II). There should be battery
voltage.
10. Remove the fuel tank unit from the fuel tank. 11. Measure resistance between fuel tank unit 4P
connector terminals No. 1 and No. 3 with the float at E (EMPTY), LOW (LOW FUEL
INDICATOR), 1/2 (HALF FULL), and F (FULL) positions. If you do not get the following readings,
replace the fuel gauge sending unit.
12. Reconnect the fuel tank unit 4P connector. 13. Remove the No. 23 BACK UP (10 A) fuse from
the under-hood fuse/relay box for at least 10 seconds, then reinstall it. 14. Turn the ignition switch
ON (II). 15. Check that the pointer of the fuel gauge indicates "F" with the float at F.
- If the pointer of the fuel gauge does not indicate "F", replace the gauge assembly.
NOTE: -
The pointer of the fuel gauge returns to the bottom of the gauge dial when the ignition switch is
OFF, regardless of the fuel level.
- Remove the No. 23 BACK UP (10 A) fuse from the under-hood fuse/relay box for at least 10
seconds after completing troubleshooting, otherwise it may take up to 20 minutes for the fuel gauge
to indicate the correct fuel level.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Instrument Panel > Fuel Gauge Sender >
Component Information > Locations > Page 640
1. Remove the fuel tank unit. 2. Remove the fuel level sensor (fuel sending unit) (A) from the fuel
tank unit (B).
- When connecting the wire harness, make sure the connection is secure and the connectors (C)
are firmly locked into place.
- When installing the fuel gauge sending unit, make sure the connection is secure. Be careful not to
bend or twist it excessively.
4. Install the parts in the reverse order of removal. When installing the fuel tank unit, align the
marks on the unit and the fuel tank.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Instrument Panel > Parking Brake Warning
Switch > Component Information > Locations
NOTE: If both the ABS indicator and the brake system indicator come on at the same time, check
the ABS or VSA system first.
1. Remove the center console. 2. Disconnect the parking brake switch connector (A) from the
parking brake switch (B).
3. Check for continuity between the switch terminal (C) and body ground.
NOTE: If the parking brake switch and fluid level switch are OK, but the brake system indicator
does not function, do the gauge control module test.
2. Check for continuity between the back-up light switch 2P connector terminals No. 1 and No. 2.
There should be continuity when the change lever
is only in reverse.
3. If necessary, replace the back-up light switch. Install the new washer and back-up light switch on
the transmission housing.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Lighting and Horns > Brake Light Switch >
Component Information > Description and Operation
Brake Light Switch: Description and Operation
The brake pedal position switch signals the PCM when the brake pedal is pressed.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Lighting and Horns > Combination Switch >
Component Information > Locations
Combination Switch: Locations
1. Remove the dashboard lower cover. 2. Remove the steering column covers. 3. Disconnect the
12P connector (A) from the combination light switch (B).
4. Remove the two screws, then slide out the combination light switch. 5. Inspect the connector
terminals to be sure they are all making good contact.
- If the terminals are bent, loose or corroded, repair them as necessary, and recheck the system.
- If the terminals look OK, check for continuity between the terminals in each switch position
according to the tables. -
- With Audio.
- With Navigation.
3. Check for continuity between the terminals in each switch position according to the table.
4. If the continuity is not as specified, replace the bulb (A) or the hazard warning switch.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Lighting and Horns > Horn Switch >
Component Information > Locations
With moonroof
NOTE: The interior light switch is built into the moonroof switch, and it switches the front individual
map lights between the OFF and DOOR positions.
1. Remove the front individual map lights. 2. Disconnect the moonroof switch 10P [12P] connector
(A) and map light 3P connector (B).
[ ] :'08 model
3. Remove the moonroof switch (C). 4. At the moonroof switch 10P [12P] connector, check for
continuity between the No. 1 [No. 7] and No. 8 [No. 9] terminals.
[ ] :'08 model
- There should be continuity when the interior light switch is in the DOOR position.
- There should be no continuity when the interior light switch is in the OFF position.
5. If the continuity check is not as specified, replace the switch. 6. Install the switch and light in the
reverse order of removal.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Lighting and Horns > Turn Signal Switch >
Component Information > Locations
The throttle is electronically controlled by the electronic throttle control system. Refer to the system
diagram to see a functional layout of the system.
Idle control: When the engine is idling, the PCM controls the throttle actuator to maintain the proper
idle speed according to engine loads.
Acceleration control: When the accelerator pedal is pressed, the PCM opens the throttle valve
depending on the accelerator pedal position (APP) sensor signal.
Cruise control: The PCM controls the throttle actuator to maintain set speed when the cruise
control is operating. The throttle actuator takes the place of the cruise control actuator.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor > Component Information > Description
and Operation > Electronic Throttle Control System > Page 698
Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor: Description and Operation Accelerator Pedal Position (APP)
Sensor
As the accelerator pedal position changes, the sensor varies the signal voltage to the PCM.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor > Component Information > Description
and Operation > Page 699
NOTE:
- This procedure checks the APP sensor in its fully closed position. In any other position, the APP
sensor stores DTCs which are covered in other troubleshooting procedures.
- Check for Temporary DTCs or DTCs with the HDS before doing this procedure. If any DTCs are
indicated, troubleshoot them first, then do this procedure.
- Press the accelerator pedal several times to check its operation. If it does not operate smoothly,
check the pedal. If you find a problem, replace the accelerator pedal module.
1. Connect the HDS to the data link connector (DLC) (A) located under the driver's side of the
dashboard.
2. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). 3. Make sure the HDS communicates with the ECM/PCM. If it
doesn't, go to the DLC circuit troubleshooting. See: Powertrain
4. Make sure the accelerator pedal is not pressed, then check the APP SENSOR in the DATA LIST
with the HDS.
- If it is not 0 %, update the ECM/PCM if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a
known-good ECM/PCM, then go to step 5.
5. Make sure the accelerator pedal is not pressed, then check the APP SENSOR in the DATA LIST
with the HDS.
- If it is 0 %, the APP sensor is OK.
NOTE: The APP sensor is not available separately. Do not disassemble the accelerator pedal
module.
50. Left Side Of Engine Comp. (DX, DX-G, LX, GX, EX)
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Air Flow Meter/Sensor > Component Information > Locations > Page 704
The mass airflow (MAF) sensor/intake air temperature (IAT) sensor contains a hot wire and a
thermistor. It is located in the intake air passage. The resistance of the hot wire and thermistor
changes due to intake air temperature and airflow. The control circuit in the MAF sensor controls
the current to keep the hot wire at a set temperature. The current is converted to voltage in the
control circuit, then output to the PCM.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Air Flow Meter/Sensor > Component Information > Locations > Page 707
2. Remove the bolts (B). 3. Remove the MAF sensor/IAT sensor (C). 4. Install the parts in the
reverse order of removal with a new O-ring (D).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Barometric Pressure Sensor > Component Information > Description and
Operation
Barometric Pressure Sensor: Description and Operation
Barometric Pressure (BARO) Sensor
The BARO sensor is inside the PCM. It converts atmospheric pressure into a voltage signal that
modifies the basic duration of the fuel injection discharge.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Camshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Locations
The CMP sensor detects the position of the No. 1 cylinder as a reference for sequential fuel
injection to each cylinder.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Camshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Service and Repair >
CMP Sensor Replacement
1. Remove the cowl cover and under-cowl panel. 2. Disconnect the CMP sensor 3P connector (A).
3. Remove the CMP sensor (B). 4. Install the parts in the reverse order of removal with a new
O-ring (C).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Camshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Service and Repair >
CMP Sensor Replacement > Page 719
Camshaft Position Sensor: Service and Repair CMP Pulse Plate Removal and Installation
CMP Pulse Plate Removal and Installation
Removal
1. Remove the air cleaner assembly. 2. Remove the air cleaner housing bracket (A), then remove
the harness holder (B) from the cylinder head.
3. Remove the rocker arm assembly. 4. Remove the camshaft thrust cover.
5. Hold the camshaft with a 27 mm open-end wrench, then loosen the bolt.
2. Hold the camshaft with a 27 mm open-end wrench, then tighten the bolt.
3. Install the camshaft thrust cover (A) with a new O-ring (B).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Camshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Service and Repair >
CMP Sensor Replacement > Page 721
4. Install the rocker arm assembly. 5. Install the harness holder (A) on the cylinder head, then
install the air cleaner housing bracket (B).
6. Install the air cleaner assembly.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer) > Component
Information > Locations
ECT sensors 1 and 2 are temperature dependent resistors (thermistors). The resistance decreases
as the engine coolant temperature increases.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer) > Component
Information > Service and Repair > ECT Sensor 1 Replacement
Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer): Service and Repair ECT Sensor 1
Replacement
1. Drain the engine coolant. 2. Disconnect the ECT sensor 1 2P connector (A).
3. Remove ECT sensor 1 (B). 4. Install the parts in the reverse order of removal with a new O-ring
(C), then refill the radiator with engine coolant.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer) > Component
Information > Service and Repair > ECT Sensor 1 Replacement > Page 728
Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer): Service and Repair ECT Sensor 2
Replacement
1. Drain the engine coolant. 2. Remove the splash shield. 3. Disconnect the ECT sensor 2 2P
connector (A).
4. Remove ECT sensor 2 (B). 5. Install the parts in the reverse order of removal with a new O-ring
(C), then refill the radiator with engine coolant. 6. Install the splash shield.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Locations
The CKP sensor detects crankshaft speed and is used by the PCM to determine ignition timing and
timing for fuel injection of each cylinder as well as detecting engine misfire.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Locations > Page
735
Crankshaft Position Sensor: Service and Repair
CKP Sensor Replacement
1. Remove the splash shield; 2-door, 4-door. 2. Disconnect the CKP sensor 3P connector (A).
3. Remove the CKP sensor (B). 4. Install the parts in the reverse order of removal with a new
O-ring (C). 5. Do the CKP pattern clear/CKP pattern learn procedure below.
1. Connect the HDS to the data link connector (DLC) (A) located under the driver's side of the
dashboard.
2. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). 3. Make sure the HDS communicates with the ECM/PCM and
other vehicle systems. If it doesn't, go to the DLC circuit troubleshooting. See:
4. Select CRANK PATTERN in the ADJUSTMENT MENU with the HDS. 5. Select CRANK
PATTERN LEARNING with the HDS, and follow the screen prompts.
1. Start the engine. Hold the engine speed at 3,000 rpm without load (in Park or neutral) until the
radiator fan comes on. 2. Test-drive the vehicle on a level road: Decelerate (with the throttle fully
closed) from an engine speed of 2,500 rpm down to 1,000 rpm with the
3. Test-drive the vehicle on a level road: Decelerate (with the throttle fully closed) from an engine
speed of 5,000 rpm down to 3,000 rpm with the
1. Remove the ECM/PCM. 2. Remove the under-hood fuse/relay box. 3. Remove the screw (A).
5. Turn the housing over again. Using two flat-tip screwdrivers, release the tabs (A), and pry up the
fuse/relay box base (B) from the fuse/relay box
housing (C).
NOTE: Make sure the terminals (D) are not bent or damaged.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Electric Load Sensor > Component Information > Locations > Page 741
6. Remove the ELD (A).
1. Remove the fuel tank unit. 2. Remove the fuel level sensor (fuel sending unit) (A) from the fuel
tank unit (B).
- When connecting the wire harness, make sure the connection is secure and the connectors (C)
are firmly locked into place.
- When installing the fuel gauge sending unit, make sure the connection is secure. Be careful not to
bend or twist it excessively.
4. Install the parts in the reverse order of removal. When installing the fuel tank unit, align the
marks on the unit and the fuel tank.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor > Component Information > Locations
The FTP sensor converts fuel tank absolute pressure into an electrical input to the ECM/PCM.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor > Component Information > Locations > Page
750
1. Remove the fuel joint block. 2. Remove the FTP sensor (A).
3. Apply silicone oil or polyalkyleneglycol (PAG) oil to a new O-ring (B) and carefully install it into its
proper position. 4. Install the parts in the reverse order of removal. 5. Do the leak inspection
procedure.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor (CNG) > Component Information > Locations
1. Remove the fuel joint block. 2. Remove the FTT sensor (A).
3. Apply silicone oil or polyalkyleneglycol (PAG) oil to a new O-ring (B) and carefully install it into its
proper position. 4. Install the parts in the reverse order of removal. 5. Do the leak inspection
procedure.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Intake Air Temperature Sensor > Component Information > Locations
50. Left Side Of Engine Comp. (DX, DX-G, LX, GX, EX)
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Intake Air Temperature Sensor > Component Information > Locations > Page
761
The mass airflow (MAF) sensor/intake air temperature (IAT) sensor contains a hot wire and a
thermistor. It is located in the intake air passage. The resistance of the hot wire and thermistor
changes due to intake air temperature and airflow. The control circuit in the MAF sensor controls
the current to keep the hot wire at a set temperature. The current is converted to voltage in the
control circuit, then output to the PCM.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Intake Air Temperature Sensor > Component Information > Locations > Page
764
2. Remove the bolts (B). 3. Remove the MAF sensor/IAT sensor (C). 4. Install the parts in the
reverse order of removal with a new O-ring (D).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Knock Sensor > Component Information > Locations
Knock Sensor
The knock control system adjusts the ignition timing to minimize knock.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Knock Sensor > Component Information > Locations > Page 771
1. Remove the intake manifold. 2. Disconnect the knock sensor 1P connector (A).
3. Remove the knock sensor (B). 4. Install the parts in the reverse order of removal.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Manifold Pressure/Vacuum Sensor > Component Information > Locations
The MAP sensor converts manifold absolute pressure into electrical signals to the PCM.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Manifold Pressure/Vacuum Sensor > Component Information > Locations >
Page 778
1. Remove the cowl cover and under-cowl panel. 2. Disconnect the MAP sensor 3P connector (A).
3. Remove the MAP sensor (B). 4. Install the parts in the reverse order of removal with a new
O-ring (C).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Oil Pressure Sensor > Component Information > Locations
1. Remove the oil pressure switch connector (A) from the engine oil pressure switch (B).
2. Check for continuity between the positive terminal (C) and the engine (ground). There should be
continuity with the engine stopped. There should
1. Disconnect the oil pressure switch connector, then remove the oil pressure switch.
2. Remove any old liquid gasket from the switch and switch mounting hole. 3. Apply very small
amount of liquid gasket to the oil pressure switch threads, then install the oil pressure switch.
NOTE: Using too much liquid gasket may cause liquid gasket to enter the oil passage or the end of
the new oil pressure switch.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Oxygen Sensor > Component Information > Locations > Component
Locations
PGM-FI System Component Location Index
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Oxygen Sensor > Component Information > Locations > Component
Locations > Page 788
Oxygen Sensor: Description and Operation Air Fuel Ratio (A/F) Sensor
The A/F sensor operates over a wide air/fuel range. The A/F sensor is installed upstream of the
TWC, and sends signals to the PCM which varies the duration of fuel injection accordingly.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Oxygen Sensor > Component Information > Description and Operation > Air
Fuel Ratio (A/F) Sensor > Page 792
The secondary HO2S detects the oxygen content in the exhaust gas downstream of the three way
catalytic converter (TWC), and sends signals to the PCM which varies the duration of fuel injection
accordingly. To stabilize its output, the sensor has an internal heater. The PCM compares the
HO2S output with the A/F sensor output to determine catalyst efficiency. The secondary HO2S is
located on the TWC.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Oxygen Sensor > Component Information > Service and Repair > A/F Sensor
Replacement
1. Disconnect the A/F sensor 4P connector (A), then remove the A/F sensor (B).
1. Disconnect the secondary HO2S 4P connector (A), then remove the secondary HO2S (B).
The PSP switch signals the PCM when the power steering load is high.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Power Steering Pressure Switch > Component Information > Locations >
Page 802
1. Start the engine, and let it idle. 2. Align the steering wheel straight ahead. 3. Check the PSP
SWITCH in the DATA LIST with the HDS.
YES - Go to step 4.
NO - Go to step 14.
4. Turn the steering wheel to the full lock position. 5. Check the PSP SWITCH in the DATA LIST
with the HDS.
NO - Go to step 6.
6. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 7. Disconnect the PSP switch 2P connector. 8. Start the engine. 9.
Check the PSP SWITCH in the DATA LIST with the HDS.
NO - Go to step 10.
10. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 11. Jump the SCS line with the HDS. 12. Disconnect ECM/PCM
connector A (44P). 13. Check for continuity between PSP switch 2P connector terminal No. 1 and
body ground.
Is there continuity?
YES - Repair short in the wire between the ECM/PCM (A22) and the PSP switch.
NO - Update the ECM/PCM if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a known-good
ECM/PCM, then recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away with a known-good ECM/PCM,
replace the original ECM/PCM.
14. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 15. Disconnect the PSP switch 2P connector. 16. Connect PSP
switch 2P connector terminals No. 1 and No. 2 with a jumper wire, then start the engine.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Power Steering Pressure Switch > Component Information > Locations >
Page 803
17. Check the PSP SWITCH in the DATA LIST with the HDS.
Does it change to ON?
NO - Go to step 18.
18. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 19. Remove the jumper wire from the PSP switch 2P connector.
20. Jump the SCS line with the HDS. 21. Disconnect ECM/PCM connector A (44P). 22. Connect
PSP switch 2P connector terminal No. 1 to body ground with a jumper wire.
23. Check for continuity between body ground and ECM/PCM connector terminal A22.
Is there continuity?
NO - Repair open in the wire between the PSP switch and the ECM/PCM (A22).
24. Check for continuity between PSP switch 2P connector terminal No. 2 and body ground.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Power Steering Pressure Switch > Component Information > Locations >
Page 804
Is there continuity?
YES - Update the ECM/PCM if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a known-good
ECM/PCM, then recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away with a known-good ECM/PCM,
replace the original ECM/PCM.
NO - Repair open in the wire between the PSP switch and G401.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Power Steering Pressure Switch > Component Information > Locations >
Page 805
1. Remove the air cleaner assembly and the intake air duct. 2. Disconnect the transmission range
switch harness connector (A).
3. Check for continuity between terminals at the harness connector. There should be continuity
between the terminals in the following table for each
switch position.
4. Transmission range switch test is completed if the test results are OK.
5. Raise the vehicle on a lift, or apply the parking brake, block the rear wheels, and raise the front
of the vehicle. Make sure it is securely supported. 6. Remove the transmission range switch cover.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information >
Locations > Page 818
7. Disconnect the transmission range switch connector.
8. Check for continuity between terminals at the switch connector. There should be continuity
between the terminals in the following table for each
switch position.
9. If the transmission range switch test is OK, replace the faulty transmission range switch harness.
10. Remove the transmission range switch, and check the end of the selector control shaft (A).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information >
Locations > Page 819
11. If the measurement at the end of the selector control shaft end is within the standard, replace
the transmission range switch. If the measurement is
out of the standard, repair the selector control shaft end, and recheck the transmission range
switch continuity.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information >
Locations > Page 820
Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: Service and Repair
Transmission Range Switch Replacement
1. Raise the vehicle on a lift, or apply the parking brake, block the rear wheels, and raise the front
of the vehicle. Make sure it is securely supported. 2. Shift the shift lever to N. 3. Remove the
transmission range switch cover.
5. Make sure the selector control shaft is in the N position. If necessary, move the shift lever to the
N position from the P position.
6. Align the cutouts (A) on the rotary-frame with the neutral positioning cutouts (B) on the
transmission range switch (C), then put a 2.0 mm (0.08
in.) feeler gauge blade (D) in the cutouts to hold the switch in the N position.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information >
Locations > Page 821
7. Install the transmission range switch (A) gently on the selector control shaft (B) while holding it in
the N position with the 2.0 mm (0.08 in.) blade
(C).
8. Tighten the bolts on the transmission range switch while you continue holding the N position. Do
not move the transmission range switch when
9. Check the connectors for rust, dirt, or oil, clean or repair if necessary, then connect the
connector securely.
10. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). Move the shift lever through all positions, and check the
transmission range switch synchronization with the
11. Check that the engine will start in P and N, and will not start in any other shift lever position. 12.
Check that the back-up lights come on when the shift lever is in R. 13. Allow the front wheels to
rotate freely, then start the engine, and check the shift lever operation. 14. Install the transmission
range switch cover.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information >
Locations > Page 822
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor > Component Information > Locations
The throttle is electronically controlled by the electronic throttle control system. Refer to the system
diagram to see a functional layout of the system.
Idle control: When the engine is idling, the PCM controls the throttle actuator to maintain the proper
idle speed according to engine loads.
Acceleration control: When the accelerator pedal is pressed, the PCM opens the throttle valve
depending on the accelerator pedal position (APP) sensor signal.
Cruise control: The PCM controls the throttle actuator to maintain set speed when the cruise
control is operating. The throttle actuator takes the place of the cruise control actuator.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor > Component Information > Description and
Operation > Electronic Throttle Control System > Page 831
Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor: Description and Operation Accelerator Pedal Position (APP)
Sensor
As the accelerator pedal position changes, the sensor varies the signal voltage to the PCM.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor > Component Information > Description and
Operation > Page 832
NOTE:
- This procedure checks the APP sensor in its fully closed position. In any other position, the APP
sensor stores DTCs which are covered in other troubleshooting procedures.
- Check for Temporary DTCs or DTCs with the HDS before doing this procedure. If any DTCs are
indicated, troubleshoot them first, then do this procedure.
- Press the accelerator pedal several times to check its operation. If it does not operate smoothly,
check the pedal. If you find a problem, replace the accelerator pedal module.
1. Connect the HDS to the data link connector (DLC) (A) located under the driver's side of the
dashboard.
2. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). 3. Make sure the HDS communicates with the ECM/PCM. If it
doesn't, go to the DLC circuit troubleshooting. See: Powertrain
4. Make sure the accelerator pedal is not pressed, then check the APP SENSOR in the DATA LIST
with the HDS.
- If it is not 0 %, update the ECM/PCM if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a
known-good ECM/PCM, then go to step 5.
5. Make sure the accelerator pedal is not pressed, then check the APP SENSOR in the DATA LIST
with the HDS.
- If it is 0 %, the APP sensor is OK.
NOTE: The APP sensor is not available separately. Do not disassemble the accelerator pedal
module.
50. Left Side Of Engine Comp. (DX, DX-G, LX, GX, EX)
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Air Flow Meter/Sensor > Component Information > Locations > Page 837
The mass airflow (MAF) sensor/intake air temperature (IAT) sensor contains a hot wire and a
thermistor. It is located in the intake air passage. The resistance of the hot wire and thermistor
changes due to intake air temperature and airflow. The control circuit in the MAF sensor controls
the current to keep the hot wire at a set temperature. The current is converted to voltage in the
control circuit, then output to the PCM.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Air Flow Meter/Sensor > Component Information > Locations > Page 840
2. Remove the bolts (B). 3. Remove the MAF sensor/IAT sensor (C). 4. Install the parts in the
reverse order of removal with a new O-ring (D).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pressure Sensor/Switch > Component Information > Locations
Fuel Pressure Sensor/Switch: Service and Repair Fuel Pressure Switch Replacement
1. Remove fuel pressure regulator P1. 2. Remove the fuel pressure switch (A).
3. Apply silicone oil or polyalkyleneglycol (PAG) oil to a new O-ring (B) and carefully install it into its
proper position. 4. Install the parts in the reverse order of removal. 5. Do the leak inspection
procedure.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pressure Sensor/Switch > Component Information > Service and Repair >
Fuel Pressure Switch Replacement > Page 848
Fuel Pressure Sensor/Switch: Service and Repair Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor Replacement
1. Relieve fuel pressure between the engine and the manual shut-off valve. 2. Remove the cowl
cover and under-cowl panel, 3. Remove the fuel feed hose (A).
4. Remove the fuel rail pressure sensor (B). 5. Apply silicone oil or polyalkyleneglycol (PAG) oil to a
new O-ring (C) and carefully install it into its proper position. 6. Install the parts in the reverse order
of removal. 7. Do the leak inspection procedure.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Temperature Sensor > Component Information > Locations
Fuel Temperature Sensor: Locations
1. Relieve fuel pressure between the engine and the manual shut-off valve. 2. Remove the cowl
cover and under-cowl panel, 3. Disconnect the fuel temperature sensor connector (A).
4. Remove the fuel temperature sensor (B). 5. Apply silicone oil or polyalkyleneglycol (PAG) oil to a
new O-ring (C) and carefully install it into its proper position. 6. Install the parts in the reverse order
of removal. 7. Do the leak inspection procedure.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Throttle Position Sensor > Component Information > Locations
The CMP sensor detects the position of the No. 1 cylinder as a reference for sequential fuel
injection to each cylinder.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Ignition System > Camshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Service and Repair > CMP Sensor
Replacement
1. Remove the cowl cover and under-cowl panel. 2. Disconnect the CMP sensor 3P connector (A).
3. Remove the CMP sensor (B). 4. Install the parts in the reverse order of removal with a new
O-ring (C).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Ignition System > Camshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Service and Repair > CMP Sensor
Replacement > Page 869
Camshaft Position Sensor: Service and Repair CMP Pulse Plate Removal and Installation
CMP Pulse Plate Removal and Installation
Removal
1. Remove the air cleaner assembly. 2. Remove the air cleaner housing bracket (A), then remove
the harness holder (B) from the cylinder head.
3. Remove the rocker arm assembly. 4. Remove the camshaft thrust cover.
5. Hold the camshaft with a 27 mm open-end wrench, then loosen the bolt.
2. Hold the camshaft with a 27 mm open-end wrench, then tighten the bolt.
3. Install the camshaft thrust cover (A) with a new O-ring (B).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Ignition System > Camshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Service and Repair > CMP Sensor
Replacement > Page 871
4. Install the rocker arm assembly. 5. Install the harness holder (A) on the cylinder head, then
install the air cleaner housing bracket (B).
6. Install the air cleaner assembly.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Ignition System > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Locations
The CKP sensor detects crankshaft speed and is used by the PCM to determine ignition timing and
timing for fuel injection of each cylinder as well as detecting engine misfire.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Ignition System > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Locations > Page 878
Crankshaft Position Sensor: Service and Repair
1. Remove the splash shield; 2-door, 4-door. 2. Disconnect the CKP sensor 3P connector (A).
3. Remove the CKP sensor (B). 4. Install the parts in the reverse order of removal with a new
O-ring (C). 5. Do the CKP pattern clear/CKP pattern learn procedure below.
1. Connect the HDS to the data link connector (DLC) (A) located under the driver's side of the
dashboard.
2. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). 3. Make sure the HDS communicates with the ECM/PCM and
other vehicle systems. If it doesn't, go to the DLC circuit troubleshooting. See:
4. Select CRANK PATTERN in the ADJUSTMENT MENU with the HDS. 5. Select CRANK
PATTERN LEARNING with the HDS, and follow the screen prompts.
1. Start the engine. Hold the engine speed at 3,000 rpm without load (in Park or neutral) until the
radiator fan comes on. 2. Test-drive the vehicle on a level road: Decelerate (with the throttle fully
closed) from an engine speed of 2,500 rpm down to 1,000 rpm with the
3. Test-drive the vehicle on a level road: Decelerate (with the throttle fully closed) from an engine
speed of 5,000 rpm down to 3,000 rpm with the
Circuit Schematics
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Ignition System > Ignition Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions >
Page 887
Circuit Schematics
Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show
current flow, from power at the top of the diagram, to ground at the bottom.
Shared Circuits
Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that
connects one circuit to another, for example, is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it
pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or
component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring, check the operation of a
component it serves. If that component works, you know the shared wiring is OK.
Connectors
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Switches - Ignition System > Ignition Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions >
Page 888
All in-line and junction connectors are numbered (C725, C416, etc.). Component connectors are
not numbered but are identified either by the name of the component if the component only has
one connector, or by a capital letter (A, B, C, etc.) if the component has more than one connector.
Below most connector numbers and component names are PHOTO and VIEW numbers. The
PHOTO number refers to a photo at Vehicle Level Locations that shows the connector's location on
the car. The VIEW number refers to an connector view at the Vehicle Level Connector Views that
shows the connector terminals, wire colors, connector cavity numbers, and other details.
The connector cavity numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector as seen
from either of the viewpoints. Except for the DLC (data link connector), disregard any numbers
molded into the connector housing.
Wires
Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the
stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number "2" next to the male
and female wire terminals at C554, for example, means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector
C554.
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the vehicle. Refer to the Power Distribution Diagram Set to get a more detailed
understanding of how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on. Individual circuit
schematics begin with a fuse. So if Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another
circuit share a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good
and power is available to the inoperative circuit.
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share the same
ground point.
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Switches - Ignition System > Ignition Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions >
Page 890
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Ignition System > Ignition Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions >
Page 891
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Ignition System > Ignition Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions >
Page 892
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Ignition System > Ignition Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions >
Page 893
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
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Switches - Ignition System > Ignition Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions >
Page 894
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Ignition System > Ignition Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions >
Page 895
How to Identify Connector Terminals
How to Identify Connector Terminals
Connector terminals are numbered according to the cavities they are in. The cavities are numbered
starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side or looking at the
female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the
same. All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not
the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the
connector face.
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The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown above is #6.
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The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice
connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for
all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement
terminal availability.
On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged,
replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If
any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it.
Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the
wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the
terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to
make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a
factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS.
Use the tools from Pin Tool Set. First, check the connector that you are about to repair.
- If it has a secondary terminal lock, go to Connectors With a Secondary Lock. A secondary lock,
found on most connectors on some models, is an additional locking device on the connector
housing as a backup for the primary lock on the terminal.
- If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock.
All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the
secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the
connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities.
EXAMPLE A:
2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW
TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE E:
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1. Remove the secondary locks.
2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW
TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE F:
All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of
connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary
in size and shape.
EXAMPLE A:
EXAMPLE B:
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1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE C:
EXAMPLE D:
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1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE E:
EXAMPLE F:
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1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE G:
1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct
replacement terminal based on the wire size range
NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part
number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available
through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures.
2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool.
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3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the
wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from
the kit.)
NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did,
cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again.
4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the
anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown
in step 3.
6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact.
- If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool
over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the
stops make contact.
- If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully
squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape.
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8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the following NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and
start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the
way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure
10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector.
Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too
short or when access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair.
On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged,
replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If
any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it.
1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from
Pin Tool Set.
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2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal,
then strip about half of the insulation off that piece.
This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal.
NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will
not nick or cut off any strands of wires.
3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and
same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit
onto the stripped end of the original wire.
5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the
pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more
than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at
the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the
harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make
each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail.
7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends
of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue
NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the
stripper.
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8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the
flare begins), and close the crimper handles far
enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click,
squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open.
9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the
wire all the way into the splice connector, and
squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until
the ratchet clicks again.
10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After
crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the
connector.
12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire(s), and shield them with
nonflammable material.
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13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the
gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat
evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete
when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube.
NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun.
Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the
wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size)
splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select
the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in
quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures.
Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the
Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching
connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body.
1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector.
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2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool.
NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal
because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit.
3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal
with a replacement terminal from the appropriate
Five-Step Troubleshooting
Five-Step Troubleshooting
Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint.
Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
problem area.
Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by
tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground (certain
circuits contain a "How the Circuit Works" Diagram set). Also, trace circuits that share wiring with
the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on,
are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step
1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used
only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely
cause.
Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more
possible causes.
Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple
procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to
make tests at points that are easily accessible.
Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe
procedures.
Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire
problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure
no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur.
Test Equipment
Test Equipment
CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
1O-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up
of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to
various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is
voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital
volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is
between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM).
In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low
resistance means good continuity.
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Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a
reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is
affecting the measurement.
To order any test equipment shown, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool
numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin.
Jumper Wire
Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder
connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire
across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse.
To order any test equipment shown, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool
numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin.
Troubleshooting Precautions
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION: -
Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
- Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles.
2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part
Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place.
CAUTION: -
Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
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- Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-mega
ohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that
contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
Troubleshooting Tests
Troubleshooting Tests
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt
ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest
"OHMS" range.
2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you
want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end.
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4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or
no reading (zero), means good continuity.
Testing for Voltage Drop
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem. Circuits must be operating when checking
voltage drop.
1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts
range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage
is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM
voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
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Ignition Switch: Connector Views
176. Ignition Key Switch
Test
SRS components are located in the area. Review the SRS component locations and precautions
and procedures before performing repairs or servicing.
1. Make sure you have the anti-theft code for the audio system or the navigation system (if
equipped), then write down the audio presets. Make sure
2. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 3. Remove the driver's dashboard lower cover, and the
steering column covers. 4. Disconnect the 7P connector (A) from the ignition switch (B).
5. Check for continuity between the terminals in each switch position according to the table.
6. If the continuity checks do not agree with the table, replace the ignition switch. 7. After
reconnecting the battery, enter the anti-theft code for the audio system or the navigation system (if
equipped), then enter the audio presets.
Replacement
SRS components are located in the area. Review the SRS component locations and precautions
and procedures before performing repairs or servicing.
1. Make sure you have the anti-theft code for the audio system or the navigation system (if
equipped), then write down the audio presets. Make sure
2. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 3. Remove the driver's dashboard lower cover, and the
steering column covers. 4. Disconnect the 7P connector (A) from the ignition switch (B).
5. Remove the two screws and the ignition switch. 6. Install in the reverse order of removal. 7. After
reconnecting the battery, enter the anti-theft code for the audio system or the navigation system (if
equipped), then enter the audio presets.
Knock Sensor
The knock control system adjusts the ignition timing to minimize knock.
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1. Remove the intake manifold. 2. Disconnect the knock sensor 1P connector (A).
3. Remove the knock sensor (B). 4. Install the parts in the reverse order of removal.
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Impact Sensor: Locations
Impact Sensor: Service and Repair Side Impact Sensor (First) Replacement
Removal
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery, then wait for 3 minutes before starting work. 2.
Disconnect the appropriate side airbag 2P connector. 3. Remove the front seat assembly. 4.
Remove the front door sill inner trim. 5. Remove the lower B-pillar lower trim panel. 6. Disconnect
the floor wire harness 4P connector from the side impact sensor (first). 7. Using a TORX T30 bit,
remove the TORX bolt (A), then remove the side impact sensor (first) (B).
Installation
1. Install the side impact sensor (first) with a new TORX bolt (A), then connect the floor wire
harness 4P connector (B) to the side impact sensor
(first).
2. Reconnect the negative cable to the battery. 3. Reinstall all removed parts. 4. After installing the
side impact sensor (first) confirm proper system operation: Turn the ignition switch ON (II); the SRS
indicator should come on
Removal
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery, then wait for 3 minutes before starting work. 2.
Disconnect the appropriate side curtain airbag 2P connector. 3. For 2-door models: Remove the
door sill trim, and the rear side trim panel.
For 4-door models: Remove the rear seat cushion and seat side bolster.
4. Disconnect the floor wire harness 2P connector from the side impact sensor (second). 5.
Remove the TORX bolt (A) using a TORX T30 bit, then remove the side impact sensor (second)
(B).
Installation
1. Install the side impact sensor (second) with a new TORX bolt (A) then connect floor wire harness
2P connector (B) to the side impact sensor
(second).
2. Reconnect the negative cable to the battery. 3. After installing the side impact sensor (second),
confirm proper system operation: Turn the ignition switch ON (II); the SRS indicator should come
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery, then wait for 3 minutes before starting work. 2.
Disconnect the driver's airbag 4P connector, the front passenger's airbag 4P connector, both seat
belt tensioner 4P connectors, and both seat belt
3. Remove the front inner fender. 4. Disconnect the engine compartment wire harness 2P
connector (A). Using a TORX T30 bit, remove the TORX bolt (B), then remove the front
Installation
1. Install the front impact sensor with a new TORX bolt (A), then connect the engine compartment
wire harness 2P connector (B) to the front impact
sensor (C).
2. Reconnect the negative cable to the battery. 3. After installing the front impact sensor, confirm
proper system operation: Turn the ignition switch ON (II); the SRS indicator should come on for
Removal
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery, then wait for 3 minutes before starting work. 2.
Disconnect both side curtain airbag 2P connectors. 3. Remove the rear seat. 4. Disconnect the
floor wire harness 4P connector from the rear safing sensor. 5. Using a TORX T30 bit, remove the
TORX bolt (A), then remove the rear safing sensor (B).
Installation
1. Install the rear safing sensor (A) with a new TORX bolt (B) then connect the floor wire harness
4P connector (C) to the rear safing sensor.
2. Reconnect the negative cable to the battery. 3. Reinstall all removed parts. 4. After installing the
rear safing sensor, confirm proper system operation: Turn the ignition switch ON (II); the SRS
indicator should come on for
08-041
June 7, 2008
ODS Unit Initialization, ODS Unit Calibration, and Seat Weight Sensor Output Check With Manual
Mode
BACKGROUND
The 2006 2008 Civic Service Manual shows procedures for the occupant detection system (ODS)
unit initialization, the ODS unit calibration, and the front passenger's seat weight sensor output
check after a vehicle collision These procedures are normally done by following the on-screen
instructions on the HDS Due to some software variations between the SRS unit and the ODS unit
in some vehicles, when doing one of these procedures, the HDS may indicate to do the procedure
with manual mode However these manual mode procedures are not in the service manual In these
cases, follow the procedures in this bulletin to do the ODS unit initialization, the ODS unit
calibration or the front passenger's seat weight sensor output check with manual mode
NOTE
Even though these procedures are done manually, an HDS is still required.
^ Front Passengers Seat Weight Sensors Output Check After a Vehicle Collision With Manual
Mode
TOOL INFORMATION
NOTE:
Initialize the ODS unit after replacing the seat back cover, the seat back cushion, and/or the ODS
unit.
NOTE:
A new (uninitialized) ODS unit installed with a faulty OPDS sensor can cause DTC 85-71. If you
read this DTC, continue with this procedure.
2. Adjust the front passenger's seat to its most rearward position, and adjust the seat back to a
normal upright position Make sure to remove items that are on, under, or near the seat
7. On the next screen, select YES to short the SCS line. After the line is shorted, the odometer
flashes no.
8. Connect the SCS service connector to the 2P memory erase signal (MES) connector. Do not
use a jumper wire.
10. After turning the ignition switch to ON (II), the SRS indicator comes on for 6 seconds and then
goes off. Within 4 seconds after the indicator goes off, disconnect the SCS service connector from
the MES connector.
11. Within 4 seconds after the SRS indicator comes on again, reconnect the SCS service
connector to the MES connector.
12. Within 4 seconds after the SRS indicator goes off, disconnect the SCS service connector from
the MES connector.
^ If the SRS indicator blinks twice and then goes off, the ODS unit is initialized. Go to ODS UNIT
CALIBRATION WITH MANUAL MODE.
^ If the SRS indicator blinks twice and then stays on, the ODS unit is initialized, but there are SRS
DTCs that need to be cleared. Go to step 14.
^ If the SRS indicator stays on (does not blink), the ODS unit is not initialized. Repeat steps 3 thru
13. If after three attempts you cannot initialize the ODS unit, refer to symptom troubleshooting in
the service manual.
16. Connect the SCS service connector to the MES connector. Do not use a jumper wire.
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17. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II).
18. After turning the ignition switch to ON (II), the SRS indicator comes on for 6 seconds and then
goes off. Within 4 seconds after the indicator goes off, disconnect the SCS service connector from
the MES connector.
19. Within 4 seconds after the SRS indicator comes on again, reconnect the SCS service
connector to the MES connector.
20. Within 4 seconds after the SRS indicator goes off, disconnect the SCS service connector from
the MES connector. The SRS indicator blinks twice to indicate the SRS unit memory has been
cleared.
21. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0), and wait for 10 seconds.
22. Turn the ignition switch to ON (0). The SRS indicator should come on for 6 seconds and then
go off. If the indicator stays on, repeat steps 14 thru 22. If after doing those steps the indicator
continues to stay on, read and troubleshoot the SRS DTCs or refer to symptom troubleshooting.
23. Use the HDS to remove the short on the SCS line.
NOTE:
Always calibrate the ODS unit after replacing any of the front passenger's seat components (except
the ODS unit or the seat weight sensors), after a vehicle collision, or after replacing the SRS unit.
2. Adjust the front passengers seat to its most rearward position, and adjust the seat-back to the
forward-most position. Make sure to remove items that are on, under, or near the seat.
4. If not already connected, connect the HDS to the DLC, then turn on the HDS (but do not turn the
ignition switch to ON (II).
7. On the next screen, select YES to short the SCS line. After the line is shorted, the odometer
display flashes no.
10. After turning the ignition switch to ON (II), the SRS indicator comes on for 6 seconds and then
goes off. Within 4 seconds after the indicator goes off, unbuckle the driver's seat belt.
11. Within 4 seconds after the SRS indicator comes on again, buckle the driver's seat belt.
12. Within 4 seconds after the SRS indicator goes off, unbuckle the driver's seat belt.
^ If the SRS indicator blinks twice and then goes off, the ODS unit is calibrated. Turn the ignition
switch to LOCK (0), then go to FRONT PASSENGER'S SEAT WEIGHT SENSOR OUTPUT
CHECK AFTER A VEHICLE COLLISION WITH MANUAL MODE.
^ If the SRS indicator blinks twice and then stays on, the ODS unit is calibrated, but there are SRS
DTCs that need to be cleared. Go to step 14.
^ If the SRS indicator stays on (does not blink), the ODS unit is not calibrated. Repeat steps 8 thru
13. If after three attempts the ODS unit does not calibrate, refer to symptom troubleshooting in the
service manual.
16. Connect the SCS service connector to the 2P memory erase signal (MES) connector. Do not
use a jumper wire.
18. After turning the ignition switch to ON (II), the SRS indicator comes on for 6 seconds and then
goes off. Within 4 seconds after the indicator goes off, disconnect the SCS service connector from
the MES connector.
19. Within 4 seconds after the SRS indicator comes on again, reconnect the SCS service
connector to the MES connector.
20. Within 4 seconds after the SRS indicator goes off, disconnect the SCS service connector from
the MES connector. The SRS indicator blinks twice to indicate the SRS unit memory has been
cleared.
21. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0), and wait for 10 seconds.
22. Turn the ignition switch to ON (I I). The SRS indicator should come on for 6 seconds and then
go off. If the indicator stays on, repeat steps 14 thru 22. If after doing those steps the indicator
continues to stay on, read and troubleshoot the SRS DTCs or refer to symptom troubleshooting.
23. Use the HDS to remove the short on the SCS line.
NOTE:
^ Always check the front passenger's seat weight sensor output after replacing any of the front
passenger's seat components, except the ODS unit, and after a vehicle collision.
1. Adjust the front passenger's seat to its most rearward position, and adjust the seat-back to a
normal upright position. Make sure to remove items that are on, under, or near the seat.
2. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), and wait for the passenger airbag OFF indicator to go off.
^ 2-door: 64 pounds. (A case of Honda coolant and a 1 gallon jug of VTM-4 fluid is 64 pounds.)
4. For 2-door models: Firmly tap on the headrest twice to release any stiction that may be present
in the seat weight sensors.
5. Watch the passenger airbag OFF indicator. The indicator should come on and stay on. If the
indicator does not come on, check for SRS DTCs and troubleshoot them.
8. Watch the passenger airbag OFF indicator. The indicator should go off.
^ If the indicator goes off, the front passenger's weight sensors are OK.
^ If the indicator does not go off, check for SRS DTCs and troubleshoot them, then repeat steps 1
thru 8.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Restraint Systems > Seat Occupant Sensor
> Component Information > Locations > Component Locations
Seat Occupant Sensor: Component Locations
4-door Removal
NOTE: Removal of the front passenger's weight sensors must be done according to Precautions
and Procedures.
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery, then wait for 3 minutes before starting work. 2.
Remove the front passenger's seat assembly section. 3. Remove the cushion cover/pad from the
seat cushion frame. 4. Using a TORX E18 socket, remove the TORX nuts (A) attaching the seat
track (B) to the front passenger's seat slide assembly including all four
5. Disconnect the sensor connectors (D) from the front passenger's weight sensors (E), then
remove the front passenger's weight sensors.
Installation
NOTE: Be sure to install the harness wires so they are not pinched or interfering with other parts.
1. Install the new front passenger's seat slide assembly including all four front passenger's weight
sensors under the seat track. 2. Apply multipurpose grease to the spring washer and bushing.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Restraint Systems > Seat Occupant Sensor
> Component Information > Service and Repair > 4-Door > Page 963
3. Insert a 3.5 mm center punch into the hole in the cushion frame to position the spring washers,
when tightening the TORX nuts (A). Begin with the
6. Reassemble the front passenger's seat cushion cover/pad. 7. Reinstall the front passenger's
seat. 8. Reconnect the negative cable to the battery. 9. Calibrate the ODS unit.
10. After installing the front passenger's weight sensors, confirm proper system operation: Turn the
ignition switch ON (II); the SRS indicator should
2-door
Removal
NOTE: Removal of the front passenger's weight sensors must be done according to Precautions
and Procedures.
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery, then wait for 3 minutes before starting work. 2.
Remove the front passenger's seat assembly. 3. Remove the cushion cover/pad from the seat
cushion frame. 4. Using a TORX T27 bit, remove the tamper-resistant TORX bolts (A) that attach
the seat track (B) to the weight sensors (C).
5. Disconnect the sensor connectors (D) from the ODS unit harness, then remove the front
passenger's weight sensors.
Installation
NOTE:
- Be sure to install the harness wires so they are not pinched or interfere with other parts.
- Make sure both of the hooks (A) on the seat track are properly secured to the front bracket (B). If
the hooks are not properly secured, the seat weight sensors will not function properly.
1. Install the new front passenger's weight sensors with tamper-resistant TORX bolts (C) under the
seat track.
2. Reassemble the front passenger's seat cushion cover/pad. 3. Reinstall the front passenger's
seat. 4. Reconnect the negative cable to the battery. 5. Calibrate the ODS unit.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Restraint Systems > Seat Occupant Sensor
> Component Information > Service and Repair > 4-Door > Page 966
6. After installing the front passenger's weight sensors, confirm proper system operation: Turn the
ignition switch ON (II); the SRS indicator should
Removal
NOTE:
- Removal of the driver's seat position sensor must be done according to Precautions and
Procedures.
- Do not turn the ignition switch ON (II), and do not connect the battery cable while removing the
driver's seat position sensor.
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery, then wait for 3 minutes before starting work. 2.
Disconnect the driver's airbag 4P connector. 3. Remove the driver's seat assembly. 4. Disconnect
the seat position sensor harness 2P connector (A) from the driver's seat position sensor.
5. Using a TORX T30 bit, remove the TORX bolt (B), then remove the driver's seat position sensor.
Installation
NOTE:
- Be sure to install the harness so it does not pinched or interfere with other parts.
- Do not turn the ignition switch ON (II), and do not connect the battery cable, while installing the
driver's seat position sensor.
- After installing the driver's seat position sensor, make sure it is clean. Keep it away from dust.
1. Install the driver's seat position sensor with a TORX bolt (A), then connect the seat position
sensor harness 2P connector to the driver's seat
2. Install the driver's seat assembly. 3. Reconnect the negative cable to the battery. 4. Check the
operation of the driver's seat position sensor with the HDS.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Clutch Switch >
Component Information > Locations
M/T
1. Disconnect the clutch interlock switch 2P connector
2. Remove the clutch interlock switch (B). 3. Check for continuity between the terminals according
to the table.
- If OK, install the clutch interlock switch, and adjust the pedal height.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Clutch Switch >
Component Information > Locations > Page 980
Clutch Pedal, Clutch Pedal Position Switch, and Clutch Interlock Switch Adjustment
NOTE: ^
^ If there is no clearance between the master cylinder piston and pushrod, the release bearing will
be held against the diaphragm spring, which can result in clutch slippage or other clutch problems.
1. Lift up the carpet (A). At the insulator cutout, measure the pedal height from the right side of the
pedal pad (B).
2. Loosen the clutch pedal position switch locknut (A), and back off the clutch pedal position switch
(B) until it no longer touches the clutch pedal
(C).
3. Loosen the clutch pushrod locknut (D), and turn the pushrod (E) in or out to get the specified
height (F), stroke (G), free play (H), and
F Clutch Pedal Height: 157 mm (6.18 in.) G Clutch Pedal Stroke: 130 - 140 mm (5.12 - 5.51 in.) H
Clutch Pedal Free Play: 10 - 18 mm (0.39 - 0.71 in.) Clutch Pedal Disengagement Height: 77 mm
(3.03 in.)
4. Tighten the clutch pushrod locknut. 5. With the clutch pedal released, turn in the clutch pedal
position switch until it contacts the clutch pedal. 6. Turn in the clutch pedal position switch an
additional 3/4 to 1 turn. 7. Tighten the clutch pedal position switch locknut. 8. Loosen the clutch
interlock switch locknut (J). 9. Press the clutch pedal to the floor.
10. Release the clutch pedal 9 - 12 mm (0.35 - 0.47 in.) from the fully pressed position, and hold it
there. Adjust the position of the clutch interlock
switch (K) so the engine will start with the clutch pedal in this position.
11. Tighten the clutch interlock switch locknut. 12. Check the clutch operation.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Ignition Switch >
Component Information > Locations
Ignition Switch: Locations
Circuit Schematics
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Ignition Switch >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 988
Circuit Schematics
Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show
current flow, from power at the top of the diagram, to ground at the bottom.
Shared Circuits
Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that
connects one circuit to another, for example, is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it
pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or
component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring, check the operation of a
component it serves. If that component works, you know the shared wiring is OK.
Connectors
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Ignition Switch >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 989
All in-line and junction connectors are numbered (C725, C416, etc.). Component connectors are
not numbered but are identified either by the name of the component if the component only has
one connector, or by a capital letter (A, B, C, etc.) if the component has more than one connector.
Below most connector numbers and component names are PHOTO and VIEW numbers. The
PHOTO number refers to a photo at Vehicle Level Locations that shows the connector's location on
the car. The VIEW number refers to an connector view at the Vehicle Level Connector Views that
shows the connector terminals, wire colors, connector cavity numbers, and other details.
The connector cavity numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector as seen
from either of the viewpoints. Except for the DLC (data link connector), disregard any numbers
molded into the connector housing.
Wires
Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the
stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number "2" next to the male
and female wire terminals at C554, for example, means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector
C554.
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the vehicle. Refer to the Power Distribution Diagram Set to get a more detailed
understanding of how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on. Individual circuit
schematics begin with a fuse. So if Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another
circuit share a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good
and power is available to the inoperative circuit.
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share the same
ground point.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Ignition Switch >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 991
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 992
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Ignition Switch >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 993
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Ignition Switch >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 994
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Ignition Switch >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 995
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Ignition Switch >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 996
How to Identify Connector Terminals
Connector terminals are numbered according to the cavities they are in. The cavities are numbered
starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side or looking at the
female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the
same. All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not
the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the
connector face.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Ignition Switch >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 997
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown above is #6.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Ignition Switch >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 998
The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice
connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for
all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement
terminal availability.
On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged,
replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If
any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it.
Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the
wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the
terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to
make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a
factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS.
Use the tools from Pin Tool Set. First, check the connector that you are about to repair.
- If it has a secondary terminal lock, go to Connectors With a Secondary Lock. A secondary lock,
found on most connectors on some models, is an additional locking device on the connector
housing as a backup for the primary lock on the terminal.
- If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock.
All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the
secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the
connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities.
EXAMPLE A:
EXAMPLE B:
EXAMPLE C:
EXAMPLE D:
2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW
TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE E:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Ignition Switch >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1002
1. Remove the secondary locks.
2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW
TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE F:
3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of
connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary
in size and shape.
EXAMPLE A:
EXAMPLE B:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Ignition Switch >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1004
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE C:
EXAMPLE D:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Ignition Switch >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1005
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE E:
EXAMPLE F:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Ignition Switch >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1006
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE G:
1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct
replacement terminal based on the wire size range
NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part
number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available
through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures.
2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Ignition Switch >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1007
3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the
wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from
the kit.)
NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did,
cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again.
4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the
anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown
in step 3.
6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact.
- If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool
over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the
stops make contact.
- If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully
squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Ignition Switch >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1008
8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the following NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and
start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the
way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure
10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector.
Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too
short or when access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair.
On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged,
replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If
any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it.
1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from
Pin Tool Set.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Ignition Switch >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1009
2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal,
then strip about half of the insulation off that piece.
This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal.
NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will
not nick or cut off any strands of wires.
3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and
same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit
onto the stripped end of the original wire.
5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the
pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more
than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at
the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the
harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make
each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail.
7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends
of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue
NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the
stripper.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Ignition Switch >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1010
8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the
flare begins), and close the crimper handles far
enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click,
squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open.
9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the
wire all the way into the splice connector, and
squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until
the ratchet clicks again.
10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After
crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the
connector.
12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire(s), and shield them with
nonflammable material.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Ignition Switch >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1011
13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the
gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat
evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete
when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube.
NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun.
Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the
wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size)
splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select
the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in
quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures.
Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the
Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching
connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body.
1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Ignition Switch >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1012
2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool.
NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal
because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit.
3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal
with a replacement terminal from the appropriate
Five-Step Troubleshooting
Five-Step Troubleshooting
Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint.
Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
problem area.
Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by
tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground (certain
circuits contain a "How the Circuit Works" Diagram set). Also, trace circuits that share wiring with
the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on,
are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step
1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used
only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely
cause.
Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more
possible causes.
Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple
procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to
make tests at points that are easily accessible.
Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe
procedures.
Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire
problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure
no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur.
Test Equipment
Test Equipment
CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
1O-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up
of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to
various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is
voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital
volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is
between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM).
In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low
resistance means good continuity.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Ignition Switch >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1013
Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a
reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is
affecting the measurement.
To order any test equipment shown, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool
numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin.
Jumper Wire
Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder
connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire
across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse.
To order any test equipment shown, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool
numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin.
Troubleshooting Precautions
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION: -
Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
- Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles.
2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part
Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place.
CAUTION: -
Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Ignition Switch >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1014
- Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-mega
ohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that
contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
Troubleshooting Tests
Troubleshooting Tests
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt
ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest
"OHMS" range.
2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you
want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Ignition Switch >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1015
4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or
no reading (zero), means good continuity.
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem. Circuits must be operating when checking
voltage drop.
1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts
range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage
is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM
voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Ignition Switch >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1016
Ignition Switch: Connector Views
Test
SRS components are located in the area. Review the SRS component locations and precautions
and procedures before performing repairs or servicing.
1. Make sure you have the anti-theft code for the audio system or the navigation system (if
equipped), then write down the audio presets. Make sure
2. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 3. Remove the driver's dashboard lower cover, and the
steering column covers. 4. Disconnect the 7P connector (A) from the ignition switch (B).
5. Check for continuity between the terminals in each switch position according to the table.
6. If the continuity checks do not agree with the table, replace the ignition switch. 7. After
reconnecting the battery, enter the anti-theft code for the audio system or the navigation system (if
equipped), then enter the audio presets.
Replacement
SRS components are located in the area. Review the SRS component locations and precautions
and procedures before performing repairs or servicing.
1. Make sure you have the anti-theft code for the audio system or the navigation system (if
equipped), then write down the audio presets. Make sure
2. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 3. Remove the driver's dashboard lower cover, and the
steering column covers. 4. Disconnect the 7P connector (A) from the ignition switch (B).
5. Remove the two screws and the ignition switch. 6. Install in the reverse order of removal. 7. After
reconnecting the battery, enter the anti-theft code for the audio system or the navigation system (if
equipped), then enter the audio presets.
The PSP switch signals the PCM when the power steering load is high.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Steering and Suspension > Sensors and
Switches - Steering > Power Steering Pressure Switch > Component Information > Locations > Page 1027
1. Start the engine, and let it idle. 2. Align the steering wheel straight ahead. 3. Check the PSP
SWITCH in the DATA LIST with the HDS.
YES - Go to step 4.
NO - Go to step 14.
4. Turn the steering wheel to the full lock position. 5. Check the PSP SWITCH in the DATA LIST
with the HDS.
NO - Go to step 6.
6. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 7. Disconnect the PSP switch 2P connector. 8. Start the engine. 9.
Check the PSP SWITCH in the DATA LIST with the HDS.
NO - Go to step 10.
10. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 11. Jump the SCS line with the HDS. 12. Disconnect ECM/PCM
connector A (44P). 13. Check for continuity between PSP switch 2P connector terminal No. 1 and
body ground.
Is there continuity?
YES - Repair short in the wire between the ECM/PCM (A22) and the PSP switch.
NO - Update the ECM/PCM if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a known-good
ECM/PCM, then recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away with a known-good ECM/PCM,
replace the original ECM/PCM.
14. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 15. Disconnect the PSP switch 2P connector. 16. Connect PSP
switch 2P connector terminals No. 1 and No. 2 with a jumper wire, then start the engine.
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17. Check the PSP SWITCH in the DATA LIST with the HDS.
NO - Go to step 18.
18. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 19. Remove the jumper wire from the PSP switch 2P connector.
20. Jump the SCS line with the HDS. 21. Disconnect ECM/PCM connector A (44P). 22. Connect
PSP switch 2P connector terminal No. 1 to body ground with a jumper wire.
23. Check for continuity between body ground and ECM/PCM connector terminal A22.
Is there continuity?
NO - Repair open in the wire between the PSP switch and the ECM/PCM (A22).
24. Check for continuity between PSP switch 2P connector terminal No. 2 and body ground.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Steering and Suspension > Sensors and
Switches - Steering > Power Steering Pressure Switch > Component Information > Locations > Page 1029
Is there continuity?
YES - Update the ECM/PCM if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a known-good
ECM/PCM, then recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away with a known-good ECM/PCM,
replace the original ECM/PCM.
NO - Repair open in the wire between the PSP switch and G401.
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Switches - Steering > Power Steering Pressure Switch > Component Information > Locations > Page 1030
(Supersedes 06-072, dated January 5, 2007, to update the information marked by the black bars
and asterisks)
*VEHICLES AFFECTED
INTRODUCTION
Beginning with some 2007 models, Honda is using a second type of TPMS (tire pressure
monitoring system) that does not use initiators like the 2006 and earlier
TPMS.
^ Are mounted on the inside of the rim, connected to the valve stem.
^ Use a wireless transmission to send tire pressure and temperature information to the TPMS unit.
^ Use non-replaceable batteries. To save battery life, the sensors turn on only when the vehicle is
being used.
*The first type of TPMS (all vehicles through 2006) uses initiators mounted above each wheel.
When you turn the ignition switch to ON (II), the initiators send out a low frequency signal to turn on
the TPMS sensors. The initiator, in conjunction with the TPMS control unit, determines the tire
location. For example, if the right front tire is low on air, the customer sees the low tire pressure
indicator and an indiction that the right front tire is low on pressure. The initiator-type TPMS, or
location-type TPMS (in the HDS), is used on the 2005-08 Pilot, the 2006-08 Ridgeline, and the
2005-08 Odyssey Touring models.*
The new TPMS does not use initiators. The TPMS sensors have a built-in acceleration sensor that
turns on the TPMS sensors when the vehicle speed reaches about 25 mph. Without an initiator, the
TPMS control unit cannot determine tire location. For example, if the right front tire is low on air, the
customer sees only the low pressure indicator and must check all four tires to find the problem tire.
During diagnosis, the TPMS control unit provides a code for each tire.
NOTE:
^ During diagnosis, the TPMS control unit gives a tire number, but you need to do the sensor
position check to find the location of the tire number.
^ Use with HDS software version 2.011.010 or later. The initiator-less TPMS, or no location-type
TPMS, is used on vehicles affected by this bulletin.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Steering and Suspension > Sensors and
Switches - Wheels and Tires > Tire Pressure Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tire Monitor
System - Usage of TPMS Sensor Tools > Page 1036
A TPMS sensor tool is used for troubleshooting and replacing the TPMS sensors. See TOOL
DESCRIPTION for more information.
WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION
None.
TOOL INFORMATION
TOOL DESCRIPTION
The TPMS sensor tool is a wireless tool that is used with the HDS for troubleshooting (sensor
position check) and for replacing TPMS sensors or the control unit (sensor ID learning).
General use:
^ Always make sure the TPMS sensor tool is set to low power unless otherwise instructed.
*^ Make sure there are no vehicles or other wheels with TPMS sensors within 10 feet of the vehicle
you are working on.
^ Make sure the batteries are in good condition and secure in the case. Refer to ServiceNews
article A07050D, Keep Those TPMS Sensor Tool Batteries From Popping Loose, for more
information.*
^ Turn on the TPMS sensor tool by following the HDS instructions. There are two different
wavelengths used, and there are two ways to turn on the TPMS sensor tool. If the TPMS sensor
tool is not turned on correctly, you won't be able to troubleshoot the vehicle or do the sensor ID
learning procedure.
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Switches - Wheels and Tires > Tire Pressure Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tire Monitor
System - Usage of TPMS Sensor Tools > Page 1037
^ Turn off the TPMS sensor tool by pressing and holding the small button as shown until the green
light in the button turns off. The tool will also turn off after 5 minutes of inactivity.
NOTE:
Offset your finger, or use just your nail to push the buttons, so you can see the light in the buttons.
Two AC adapters are included in the TPMS sensor tool kit. The 900 AC adapter is for the battery
charger. Use the straight AC adapter to power the TPMS sensor tool when charged batteries are
not available.
NOTE:
^ The AC adapter does not charge the batteries in the TPMS sensor tool.
^ Remove the batteries from the TPMS sensor tool when using the AC adapter.
There are two ways to charge the batteries. The method to use depends on the batteries' state of
charge. For brand new or fully discharged batteries:
1. Connect the AC adapter to the charger (make sure you use the AC adapter with the 90° bend).
2. Insert the batteries into the charger. Make sure you note the polarity (direction) of the batteries.
3. Plug the charger into a power outlet. The LEDs turn red, and quick charging begins.
NOTE:
^ If the LEDs do not come on, check that the batteries are properly installed. If the LEDs still do not
come on, replace the batteries.
^ If you press the red button while the batteries are charging, the battery discharge mode begins.
Press the red button again within 30 seconds, and the charger switches back to its quick charge
mode.
^ When the LEDs turn green, the batteries are charged, and the battery charger automatically
switches to trickle charge mode.
^ Remove the batteries from the charger when it is not plugged in.
For charging batteries when you don't know the state of charge:
1. Connect the AC adapter to the charger (make sure you use the AC adapter with the 90° bend).
2. Insert the batteries into the charger. Make sure you note the polarity (direction) of the batteries.
4. Press the red button once to start the discharge mode. The LEDs blink red.
NOTE:
^ If the LEDs do not come on, check that the batteries are properly installed. If the LEDs still do not
come on, replace the batteries.
^ If you press the red button a second time within 30 seconds, the battery quick charge mode
begins.
^ Once the batteries are discharged, the LEDs turn solid red and the battery quick charge mode
begins.
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System - Usage of TPMS Sensor Tools > Page 1038
^ When the LEDs turn green, the batteries are charged, and the battery charger automatically
switches to trickle charge mode.
^ Remove the batteries from the charger when it is not plugged in.
When the TPMS sets a DTC, it refers to Tire 1, Tire 2, Tire 3, or Tire 4. In the service manual, the
tire number is the sensor number. For example, Tire 2 is sensor 2.
However, the tire number is not the tire position. To diagnose or repair the vehicle, do the sensor
position check to find the location of the problem tire (or sensor) on the vehicle.
7. In the System Selection Menu, select TPMS, then select the Enter button.
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Switches - Wheels and Tires > Tire Pressure Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tire Monitor
System - Usage of TPMS Sensor Tools > Page 1040
8. In the Mode menu, select Functional Tests, then select the Enter button.
9. In the Functional Test menu, select Sensor Position Check, then select the Enter button.
*10. On the Sensor Position Check screen, turn on the TPMS sensor tool by following the
on-screen instructions. (The Accord is shown on the sample
screen.)*
NOTE:
Each model is different. Turning on the TPMS sensor tool incorrectly could lead to incorrect
diagnosis and repair.
Once the TPMS sensor tool is turned on, select the YES button.
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Switches - Wheels and Tires > Tire Pressure Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tire Monitor
System - Usage of TPMS Sensor Tools > Page 1041
11. Follow the instructions on the Sensor Position Check screen. When prompted, go to the left
front wheel, then select the Enter button.
12. Wait about 5 seconds, and the Sensor Position Check screen changes to an operation
progress bar.
* NOTE:
^ Wait for the timer to start. When the blue bar appears, use the TPMS sensor tool.*
^ If the sensor IDs appear without the TPMS sensor tool button being pushed, a TPMS sensor is
transmitting. Select the Exit button, wait 5 minutes for the sensor to go to sleep, then follow the
on-screen prompts.
13. Point and hold the TPMS sensor tool 10 to 20 inches from the left front wheel valve stem. Press
and hold the large transmit button for up to 1 minute. The button should flash red. The TPMS
sensor tool sends a signal to the TPMS sensor to turn on and broadcast the TPMS sensor ID to the
TPMS control unit.
14. Watch for the TPMS sensor IDs to appear on the HDS screen. The TPMS control unit must
read the sensor ID five times to complete the learning
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System - Usage of TPMS Sensor Tools > Page 1042
procedure.
NOTE:
15. The TPMS sensor ID learning changes to the following screen once the procedure is complete.
Select the Enter button.
NOTE:
If the sensor does not respond (no sensor IDs are displayed), rotate the tire one-quarter turn and
try again. If the TPMS sensor does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, switch the tire to a
known-good location and try again. If the TPMS sensor still does not respond after one full rotation
of the tire, replace the TPMS sensor.
16. When prompted, go to the left rear wheel, then select the Enter button.
17. The TPMS sensor ID learning procedure goes through the same steps as the left front wheel
(see steps 12 thru 15). When the timer starts (the blue bar appears), point and hold the TPMS
sensor tool 10 to 20 inches from the left rear wheel valve stem. Press and hold the large transmit
button for up to 1 minute. The button should flash red. The TPMS sensor tool sends a signal to the
TPMS sensor to turn on and broadcast the TPMS sensor
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System - Usage of TPMS Sensor Tools > Page 1043
ID to the TPMS control unit.
NOTE:
^ If the sensor IDs appear without the TPMS sensor tool button being pushed, a TPMS sensor is
transmitting. Select the Exit button, wait 5 minutes for the sensors to go to sleep, then follow the
on-screen prompts.
^ If the sensor does not respond (no sensor IDs are displayed), rotate the tire one-quarter turn and
try again. If the TPMS sensor does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, switch the tire to a
known-good location and try again. If the TPMS sensor still does not respond after one full rotation
of the tire, replace the TPMS sensor.
18. When prompted, go to the right rear wheel, then select the Enter button.
19. The TPMS sensor ID learning procedure goes through the same steps as the left front wheel
(see steps 12 thru 15). When the timer starts (the blue bar appears), point and hold the TPMS
sensor tool 10 to 20 inches from the right rear wheel valve stem. Press and hold the large transmit
button for up to 1 minute. The button should flash red. The TPMS sensor tool sends a signal to the
TPMS sensor to turn on and broadcast the TPMS sensor ID to the TPMS control unit.
NOTE:
^ If the sensor IDs appear without the TPMS sensor tool button being pushed, a TPMS sensor is
transmitting. Select the Exit button, wait 5 minutes for the sensors to go to sleep, then follow the
on-screen prompts.
^ If the sensor does not respond (no sensor IDs are displayed), rotate the tire one-quarter turn and
try again. If the TPMS sensor does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, switch the tire to a
known-good location and try again. If the TPMS sensor still does not respond after one full rotation
of the tire, replace the TPMS sensor.
20. When prompted, go to the right front wheel, then select the Enter button.
21. The TPMS sensor ID learning procedure goes through the same steps as the left front wheel
(see steps 12 thru 15). When the timer starts (the blue bar appears), point and hold the TPMS
sensor tool 10 to 20 inches from the right front wheel valve stem. Press and hold the large transmit
button for up to 1 minute. The button should flash red. The TPMS sensor tool sends a signal to the
TPMS sensor to turn on and broadcast the TPMS
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Switches - Wheels and Tires > Tire Pressure Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tire Monitor
System - Usage of TPMS Sensor Tools > Page 1044
NOTE:
^ If the sensor IDs appear without the TPMS sensor tool button being pushed, a TPMS sensor is
transmitting. Select the Exit button, wait 5 minutes for the sensors to go to sleep, then follow the
on-screen prompts.
^ If the sensor does not respond (no sensor IDs are displayed), rotate the tire one-quarter turn and
try again. If the TPMS sensor does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, switch the tire to a
known-good location and try again. If the TPMS sensor still does not respond after one full rotation
of the tire, replace the TPMS sensor.
22. The sensor position check is complete. Using the DTC(s) and the information on the Sensor
Position Check screen, locate the problem tire.
If the vehicle has DTC 22-1,this means that the problem is in tire 2 (sensor 2).
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System - Usage of TPMS Sensor Tools > Page 1045
You must refer to the Sensor Position Check screen to see what location tire 2 is in. Do not
assume it is in position 2 (left rear tire).
According to the Sensor Position Check screen tire 2 is in position 1, the left front tire.
SENSOR ID LEARNING
NOTE:
Even if you replace only one sensor, the Sensor ID Learning procedure must be done to all four
wheels.
6. In the Select Mode menu, select Honda Systems, and select the Enter button.
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Switches - Wheels and Tires > Tire Pressure Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tire Monitor
System - Usage of TPMS Sensor Tools > Page 1047
7. In the System Selection Menu, select TPMS, then select the Enter button.
8. In the Mode Menu, select Sensor ID Learning, then select the Enter button.
NOTE:
Make sure there are no other vehicles or other wheels with TPMS sensors within 10 feet of the
vehicle you are working on.
10. On the TPMS Sensor ID Learning screen, turn on the TPMS sensor tool by following the
on-screen instructions. The Accord is shown on the sample screen.
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System - Usage of TPMS Sensor Tools > Page 1048
NOTE:
Each model is different. Turning on the TPMS sensor tool incorrectly could lead to incorrect
diagnosis and repair.
Once the TPMS sensor tool is turned on, select the YES button.
11. Follow the instructions on the TPMS Sensor ID Learning screen. When prompted, go to the left
front wheel, then select the Enter button.
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System - Usage of TPMS Sensor Tools > Page 1049
12. Wait about 5 seconds, and the TPMS Sensor ID Learning screen should change to an
operation progress bar.
NOTE:
^ Wait for the timer to start. When you see the blue bar, use the TPMS sensor tool.
^ If the sensor IDs appear without the TPMS sensor tool button being pushed, a TPMS sensor is
transmitting. Select the Exit button, wait 5 minutes for the sensor to go to sleep, then follow the
on-screen prompts.
13. Point and hold the TPMS sensor tool 10 to 20 inches from the left front wheel valve stem. Press
and hold the large transmit button for up to 1 minute. The button should flash red. The TPMS
sensor tool sends a signal to the TPMS sensor to turn on and broadcast the TPMS sensor ID to the
TPMS control unit.
14. Watch for the TPMS sensor IDs to appear on the HDS screen The TPMS control unit must read
the sensor ID five times to complete the learning procedure.
NOTE:
15. The TPMS sensor ID learning changes to the following screen once the procedure is complete.
Select the Enter button.
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Switches - Wheels and Tires > Tire Pressure Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tire Monitor
System - Usage of TPMS Sensor Tools > Page 1050
NOTE:
If the sensor does not respond (no sensor IDs are displayed), rotate the tire one-quarter turn and
try again. If the TPMS sensor does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, switch the tire to a
known-good location and try again. If the TPMS sensor still does not respond after one full rotation
of the tire, replace the TPMS sensor.
16. When prompted, go to the left rear wheel, then select the Enter button.
17. The TPMS sensor ID learning procedure goes through the same steps as the left front wheel
(see steps 12 thru 15). When the timer starts (the blue bar appears), point and hold the TPMS
sensor tool 10 to 20 inches from the left rear wheel valve stem. Press and hold the large transmit
button for up to 1 minute. The button should flash red. The TPMS sensor tool sends a signal to the
TPMS sensor to turn on and broadcast the TPMS sensor ID to the TPMS control unit.
NOTE:
^ If the sensor IDs appear without the TPMS sensor tool button being pushed, a TPMS sensor is
transmitting. Select the Exit button, wait 5 minutes for the sensor to go to sleep, then follow the
on-screen prompts.
^ If the sensor does not respond (no sensor IDs are displayed), rotate the tire one-quarter turn and
try again. If the TPMS sensor does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, switch the tire to a
known-good location and try again. If the TPMS sensor still does not respond after one full rotation
of the tire, replace the TPMS sensor.
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Switches - Wheels and Tires > Tire Pressure Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tire Monitor
System - Usage of TPMS Sensor Tools > Page 1051
18. When prompted, go to the right rear wheel, then select the Enter button.
19. The TPMS sensor ID learning procedure goes through the same steps as the left front wheel
(see steps 12 thru 15). When the timer starts (the blue bar appears), point and hold the TPMS
sensor tool 10 to 20 inches from the right rear wheel valve stem. Press and hold the large transmit
button for up to 1 minute. The button should flash red. The TPMS sensor tool sends a signal to the
TPMS sensor to turn on and broadcast the TPMS sensor ID to the TPMS control unit.
NOTE:
^ If the sensor IDs appear without the TPMS sensor tool button being pushed, a TPMS sensor is
transmitting. Select the Exit button, wait 5 minutes for the sensor to go to sleep, then follow the
on-screen prompts.
^ If the sensor does not respond (no sensor IDs are displayed), rotate the tire one-quarter turn and
try again. If the TPMS sensor does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, switch the tire to a
known-good location and try again. If the TPMS sensor still does not respond after one full rotation
of the tire, replace the TPMS sensor.
20. When prompted, go to the right front wheel, then select the Enter button.
21. The TPMS sensor ID learning procedure goes through the same steps as the left front wheel
(see steps 12 thru 15). When the timer starts (the blue bar appears), point and hold the TPMS
sensor tool 10 to 20 inches from the right front wheel valve stem. Press and hold the large transmit
button for up to 1 minute. The button should flash red. The TPMS sensor tool sends a signal to the
TPMS sensor to turn on and broadcast the TPMS sensor ID to the TPMS control unit.
NOTE:
^ If the sensor IDs appear without the TPMS sensor tool button being pushed, a TPMS sensor is
transmitting. Select the Exit button, wait 5 minutes for the sensor to go to sleep, then follow the
on-screen prompts.
^ If the sensor does not respond (no sensor IDs are displayed), rotate the tire one-quarter turn and
try again. If the TPMS sensor does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, switch the tire to a
known-good location and try again. If the TPMS sensor still does not respond after one full rotation
of the tire, replace the TPMS sensor.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Steering and Suspension > Sensors and
Switches - Wheels and Tires > Tire Pressure Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tire Monitor
System - Usage of TPMS Sensor Tools > Page 1052
22. The sensor ID learning procedure is complete. Select the Enter button to continue to register
the TPMS sensor IDs in the TPMS unit.
23. The low tire pressure indicator is flashing and requires road-testing the vehicle. On the TPMS
Sensor ID Learning screen, select the Enter button.
24. Drive the vehicle for 2 minutes above 30 mph, or until the low tire pressure indicator goes off.
Once the indicator goes off, stop the vehicle.
25. In the Mode Menu, select the Data List, and then select the Enter button. Check the tire
pressure at all four tires to confirm that the TPMS control unit is reading the correct tire pressures.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Steering and Suspension > Sensors and
Switches - Wheels and Tires > Tire Pressure Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tire Monitor
System - Usage of TPMS Sensor Tools > Page 1053
26. Return to the Mode Menu, select DTCs, then select the Enter button.
Disclaimer
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Steering and Suspension > Sensors and
Switches - Wheels and Tires > Tire Pressure Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 1054
Tire Pressure Sensor: Testing and Inspection Memorizing the Tire Pressure Sensor ID
TPMS sensor initializer tool AKS0620006 Available through the American Honda Tool and
Equipment Program; call 1-888-424-6857
All four tire pressure sensor IDs must be memorized to the TPMS control unit whenever you do any
of these actions:
NOTE: ^
To ensure the control unit memorizes the correct ID, the vehicle with the new sensor must be at
least 10 ft (3 m) away from other vehicles that have tire pressure sensors.
1. With the ignition switch at LOCK (0) wait 5 minutes or more for the TPMS sensors to go to sleep
mode. Connect the HDS to the data link
connector (DLC) (A) located under the driver's side of the dashboard.
2. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 3. Make sure the HDS communicates with the vehicle and the
TPMS control unit. If it doesn't, troubleshoot the DLC circuit. 4. Select Sensor ID Learning from the
mode menu on the HDS. 5. Follow HDS screen prompts to turn on the TPMS sensor initializer tool
(A). Verify the power switch (B) is in the "Low" position.
6. Hold the TPMS sensor initializer tool near one wheel, memorize the pressure sensor ID by
following the screen prompts on the HDS.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Steering and Suspension > Sensors and
Switches - Wheels and Tires > Tire Pressure Sensor > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Memorizing the
Tire Pressure Sensor ID > Page 1057
7. Repeat step 6 for each wheel until all four sensor IDs are memorized. When all four IDs are
memorized, the low tire pressure indicator blinks. 8. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). 9.
Disconnect the HDS from the DLC.
10. Test-drive the vehicle at 28 mph (45 km/h) or more for at least 1 minute. 11. Make sure the low
tire pressure indicator does not blink. 12. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). 13. Reduce the
pressure in one tire until it is less than the appropriate specification. 14. Turn the ignition switch to
ON (II). 15. Test-drive the vehicle at 28 mph (45 km/h) or more for at least 1 minute. 16. Make sure
the low tire pressure indicator turns on, then inflate the tire. 17. Repeat step 12 to 16 for all the
other tires. 18. Clear any DTCs with the HDS.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Steering and Suspension > Sensors and
Switches - Wheels and Tires > Tire Pressure Sensor > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Memorizing the
Tire Pressure Sensor ID > Page 1058
Tire Pressure Sensor: Testing and Inspection Tire Pressure Sensor Location
NOTE: This procedure locates where the tire pressure sensors number 1, 2, 3, 4 are mounted,
when activated by the TPMS sensor initializer tool.
^ Memorizing tire pressure sensor IDs (including replacing the TPMS control unit, or the tire
pressure sensors).
^ Wheel rotation.
1. With the ignition switch at LOCK (0), connect the HDS to the data link connector (DLC (A)
located under the driver's side of the dashboard.
2. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 3. Make sure the HDS communicates with the vehicle and the
TPMS control unit. If it doesn't, troubleshoot the DLC circuit. 4. Select Function Test from the mode
menu, then select Sensor Position Check on the HDS. 5. Follow HDS screen prompts to turn on
the TPMS sensor initializer tool (A). Verify the power switch (B) is in the "Low" position.
6. Follow the prompts on the HDS to activate the tire pressure sensors using the TPMS sensor
initializer tool. Start with the left-front (LF) wheel.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Steering and Suspension > Sensors and
Switches - Wheels and Tires > Tire Pressure Sensor > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Memorizing the
Tire Pressure Sensor ID > Page 1059
7. Check the HDS screen, and note the active sensor reception order of the tire pressure sensor 1,
2, 3, 4.
NOTE: If the sensor does not respond to the TPMS initializer, rotate the tire 1/4 turn and retry. If
the sensor still does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, swap the tire to a known-good
location and retry. If the sensor still does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, replace the
tire pressure sensor.
8. Note the sensor location for reference. 9. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Steering and Suspension > Sensors and
Switches - Wheels and Tires > Tire Pressure Sensor > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Page 1060
Tire Pressure Sensor: Service and Repair
Removal
1. Raise the vehicle, and support it with safety stands in the proper locations. 2. Remove the wheel
with the faulty sensor. 3. Remove the tire valve stem cap and the valve stem core, and let the tire
deflate. 4. Remove any balance weights, and then break the bead loose from the wheel with a
commercially available tire changer (A).
5. Position the wheel so the tire machine (A) and tire iron (B) are next to the valve stem (C) and will
move away from it when the machine starts.
6. Remove the valve stem nut (A) and washer (B), then remove the tire pressure sensor with valve
stem (C) from the wheel.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Steering and Suspension > Sensors and
Switches - Wheels and Tires > Tire Pressure Sensor > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Page 1061
7. Remove and discard the valve stem grommet (A) from the tire pressure sensor (B).
NOTE: ^
The valve stem grommet might stay in the wheel; make sure you remove it.
^ Always use a new valve stem grommet whenever the tire pressure sensor has been removed
from the wheel. When only removing a tire from the wheel, replace the valve stem grommet if it is
possible.
Installation
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Steering and Suspension > Sensors and
Switches - Wheels and Tires > Tire Pressure Sensor > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Page 1062
1. Before installing the tire pressure sensor, clean the mating surfaces on the sensor and the
wheel. 2. Install the tire pressure sensor (A) and the washer (B) to the wheel (C), and tighten the
valve stem nut (D) finger tight. Make sure the pressure
3. Tighten the valve stem nut to the specified torque while holding the tire pressure sensor.
NOTE: ^
Do not use air or electric impact tools to tighten a valve stem nut.
^ Do not twist the tire pressure sensor to adjust its position with the wheel, as this will damage or
deform the valve stem grommet.
4. Lube the tire bead sparingly, and position the wheel so the tire machine (A) and tire iron (B) are
next to the valve stem (C) and will move away
from it when the machine starts. Then install the tire onto the wheel.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Steering and Suspension > Sensors and
Switches - Wheels and Tires > Tire Pressure Sensor > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Page 1063
5. With a dry air source, inflate the tire to 300 kPa (3.1 kgf/cm2, 44 psi) to seat the tire bead to the
rim, then adjust the tire pressure, then install the
NOTE: Make sure the tire bead is seated on both sides of the rim uniformly.
6. Check and adjust the wheel balance, then install the wheels on the vehicle. 7. Remove the jack
stands, and lower the vehicle. Torque the wheel nuts to specifications. 8. Connect the HDS, and
memorize the pressure sensor IDs using the TPMS sensor initializer tool.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and
Switches - A/T > Fluid Pressure Sensor/Switch, A/T > Component Information > Locations
Fluid Pressure Sensor/Switch: Service and Repair 2nd Clutch Transmission Fluid Pressure Switch,
Replacement
2nd Clutch Transmission Fluid Pressure Switch, Replacement
1. Remove the air cleaner assembly and the intake air duct. 2. Remove the harness clamp (A) from
its bracket, and remove the air cleaner housing bracket (B).
3. Disconnect the 2nd clutch transmission fluid pressure switch connector, and remove the 2nd
clutch transmission fluid pressure switch (A).
4. Make sure there is no water, oil, dust, or foreign particles inside the connectors. 5. Install a new
2nd clutch transmission fluid pressure switch with a new sealing washer (B), and tighten the switch
to the specified torque by turning
6. Connect the connector securely. 7. Install the air cleaner housing bracket, and install the
harness clamp on its bracket. 8. Install the intake air duct and the air cleaner assembly.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and
Switches - A/T > Fluid Pressure Sensor/Switch, A/T > Component Information > Service and Repair > 2nd Clutch
Transmission Fluid Pressure Switch, Replacement > Page 1074
Fluid Pressure Sensor/Switch: Service and Repair 3rd Clutch Transmission Fluid Pressure Switch
Replacement
1. Raise the vehicle on a lift, or apply the parking brake, block the rear wheels, and raise the front
of the vehicle. Make sure it is securely supported. 2. Remove the splash shield. 3. Disconnect the
3rd clutch transmission fluid pressure switch connector, then remove the 3rd clutch transmission
fluid pressure switch (A).
4. Make sure there is no water, oil, dust, or foreign particles inside the connector. 5. Install a new
3rd clutch transmission fluid pressure switch with a new sealing washer (B), and tighten the switch
to the specified torque by turning
160. A/T Gear Position Indicator Panel Light/Park Pin Switch (A/T)
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and
Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Locations
1. Remove the air cleaner assembly and the intake air duct. 2. Disconnect the transmission range
switch harness connector (A).
3. Check for continuity between terminals at the harness connector. There should be continuity
between the terminals in the following table for each
switch position.
4. Transmission range switch test is completed if the test results are OK.
5. Raise the vehicle on a lift, or apply the parking brake, block the rear wheels, and raise the front
of the vehicle. Make sure it is securely supported. 6. Remove the transmission range switch cover.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and
Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Locations > Page 1089
7. Disconnect the transmission range switch connector.
8. Check for continuity between terminals at the switch connector. There should be continuity
between the terminals in the following table for each
switch position.
9. If the transmission range switch test is OK, replace the faulty transmission range switch harness.
10. Remove the transmission range switch, and check the end of the selector control shaft (A).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and
Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Locations > Page 1090
11. If the measurement at the end of the selector control shaft end is within the standard, replace
the transmission range switch. If the measurement is
out of the standard, repair the selector control shaft end, and recheck the transmission range
switch continuity.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and
Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Locations > Page 1091
Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: Service and Repair
1. Raise the vehicle on a lift, or apply the parking brake, block the rear wheels, and raise the front
of the vehicle. Make sure it is securely supported. 2. Shift the shift lever to N. 3. Remove the
transmission range switch cover.
5. Make sure the selector control shaft is in the N position. If necessary, move the shift lever to the
N position from the P position.
6. Align the cutouts (A) on the rotary-frame with the neutral positioning cutouts (B) on the
transmission range switch (C), then put a 2.0 mm (0.08
in.) feeler gauge blade (D) in the cutouts to hold the switch in the N position.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and
Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Locations > Page 1092
7. Install the transmission range switch (A) gently on the selector control shaft (B) while holding it in
the N position with the 2.0 mm (0.08 in.) blade
(C).
8. Tighten the bolts on the transmission range switch while you continue holding the N position. Do
not move the transmission range switch when
9. Check the connectors for rust, dirt, or oil, clean or repair if necessary, then connect the
connector securely.
10. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). Move the shift lever through all positions, and check the
transmission range switch synchronization with the
11. Check that the engine will start in P and N, and will not start in any other shift lever position. 12.
Check that the back-up lights come on when the shift lever is in R. 13. Allow the front wheels to
rotate freely, then start the engine, and check the shift lever operation. 14. Install the transmission
range switch cover.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and
Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Locations > Page 1093
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and
Switches - A/T > Transmission Speed Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Locations
Transmission Speed Sensor: Service and Repair Input Shaft (Mainshaft) Speed Sensor
Replacement
Input Shaft (Mainshaft) Speed Sensor Replacement
1. Remove the air cleaner assembly and the intake air duct. 2. Remove the harness clamp (A) from
its bracket, and remove the air cleaner housing bracket (B).
3. Disconnect the input shaft (mainshaft) speed sensor connector, and remove the input shaft
(mainshaft) speed sensor (A).
4. Install a new O-ring (B) on the new input shaft (mainshaft) speed sensor, then install the input
shaft (mainshaft) speed sensor in the transmission
housing.
5. Check the connector for rust, dirt, or oil, then connect the connector securely. 6. Install the air
cleaner housing bracket, and install the harness clamp on its bracket. 7. Install the intake air duct
and the air cleaner assembly.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and
Switches - A/T > Transmission Speed Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Service and Repair > Input Shaft (Mainshaft)
Speed Sensor Replacement > Page 1104
Transmission Speed Sensor: Service and Repair Output Shaft (Countershaft) Speed Sensor
Replacement
1. Remove the air cleaner assembly and the intake air duct. 2. Disconnect the output shaft
(countershaft) speed sensor connector, and remove the output shaft (countershaft) speed sensor
(A).
3. Install a new O-ring (B) on a new output shaft (countershaft) speed sensor, then install the
output shaft (countershaft) speed sensor in the
transmission housing.
4. Check the connector for rust, dirt, or oil, then connect the connector securely. 5. Install the intake
air duct and the air cleaner assembly.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and
Switches - A/T > Transmission Temperature Sensor/Switch, A/T > Component Information > Locations
1. Raise the vehicle on a lift, or apply the parking brake, block the rear wheels, and raise the front
of the vehicle. Make sure it is securely supported. 2. Remove the splash shield. 3. Disconnect the
shift solenoid harness connector.
4. Measure the ATF temperature sensor resistance between shift solenoid harness connector
terminals No. 6 and No. 7.
5. If the resistance is out of standard, go to step 6, and replace the ATF temperature sensor and
solenoid harness. The ATF temperature sensor is not
^ If the resistance is within the standard, the test is complete, connect the connector securely, and
install the splash shield.
6. Remove the drain plug (A), and drain the automatic transmission fluid (ATF).
7. Reinstall the drain plug with a new sealing washer (B). 8. Remove the shift solenoid valve cover
(A), the dowel pins (B), the gasket (C), and the harness clamp bracket (D).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and
Switches - A/T > Transmission Temperature Sensor/Switch, A/T > Component Information > Locations > Page 1110
9. Remove the shift solenoid harness connector (E), and replace it.
10. Install a new O-ring (F) on a new shift solenoid harness connector, and install the connector in
the transmission housing. 11. Connect WHT harnesses and ORN harness connector to shift
solenoid valve B. ATF temperature sensor is assembled in the connector with WHT
harnesses.
13. Install the shift solenoid valve cover, the dowel pins, a new gasket, and the harness clamp
bracket. 14. Check the connector for rust, dirt, or oil, then connect the connector securely. 15. Refill
the transmission with ATF. 16. Install the splash shield.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and
Switches - A/T > Transmission Temperature Sensor/Switch, A/T > Component Information > Locations > Page 1111
Transmission Temperature Sensor/Switch: Service and Repair
1. Raise the vehicle on a lift, or apply the parking brake, block the rear wheels, and raise the front
of the vehicle. Make sure it is securely supported. 2. Remove the splash shield. 3. Disconnect the
shift solenoid harness connector.
4. Measure the ATF temperature sensor resistance between shift solenoid harness connector
terminals No. 6 and No. 7.
5. If the resistance is out of standard, go to step 6, and replace the ATF temperature sensor and
solenoid harness. The ATF temperature sensor is not
^ If the resistance is within the standard, the test is complete, connect the connector securely, and
install the splash shield.
6. Remove the drain plug (A), and drain the automatic transmission fluid (ATF).
7. Reinstall the drain plug with a new sealing washer (B). 8. Remove the shift solenoid valve cover
(A), the dowel pins (B), the gasket (C), and the harness clamp bracket (D).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and
Switches - A/T > Transmission Temperature Sensor/Switch, A/T > Component Information > Locations > Page 1112
9. Remove the shift solenoid harness connector (E), and replace it.
10. Install a new O-ring (F) on a new shift solenoid harness connector, and install the connector in
the transmission housing. 11. Connect WHT harnesses and ORN harness connector to shift
solenoid valve B. ATF temperature sensor is assembled in the connector with WHT
harnesses.
13. Install the shift solenoid valve cover, the dowel pins, a new gasket, and the harness clamp
bracket. 14. Check the connector for rust, dirt, or oil, then connect the connector securely. 15. Refill
the transmission with ATF. 16. Install the splash shield.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and
Switches - M/T > Transmission Speed Sensor, M/T > Component Information > Diagrams
Front Door
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Windows and Glass > Power Window Switch
> Component Information > Locations > Page 1124
Rear Door
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Windows and Glass > Power Window Switch
> Component Information > Locations > Page 1125
Doors
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Windows and Glass > Power Window Switch
> Component Information > Locations > Page 1126
Doors
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Windows and Glass > Power Window Switch
> Component Information > Locations > Page 1127
Doors
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Windows and Glass > Power Window Switch
> Component Information > Locations > Page 1128
Power Window Switch: Diagrams
2. Check for continuity between the terminals in each switch position according to the table.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Windows and Glass > Power Window Switch
> Component Information > Service and Repair > Passenger's Power Window Switch Test/Replacement > Page 1133
3. Connect battery power to the No. 4 terminal and ground the No. 7 (or No. 8) terminal. The switch
light should come on. 4. If the continuity or switch light tests is not as specified, remove the screws
and replace the switch. 5. Install the switch in the reverse order of removal.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Windows and Glass > Power Window Switch
> Component Information > Service and Repair > Passenger's Power Window Switch Test/Replacement > Page 1134
Power Window Switch: Service and Repair Power Window Master Switch Test/Replacement
4-door
The driver's switch is combined with the control unit, so you cannot isolate the switch to test it.
Instead, run the master switch input test procedures. If the tests are normal, the driver's switch
must be faulty. Replace the switch.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Windows and Glass > Power Window Switch
> Component Information > Service and Repair > Passenger's Power Window Switch Test/Replacement > Page 1135
4. If the continuity is not as specified, remove the screws and replace the switch. 5. Install the
switch in the reverse order of removal.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Wiper and Washer Systems > Washer Fluid
Level Switch > Component Information > Locations
1. Remove the dashboard lower cover. 2. Remove the steering column covers. 3. Disconnect the
dashboard wire harness 8P connector (A) from the wiper/washer switch (B).
4. Remove the two screws, then slide out the wiper/washer switch. 5. Install the switch in the
reverse order of removal.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Wiper and Washer Systems > Wiper Switch
> Component Information > Locations
1. Remove the dashboard lower cover. 2. Remove the steering column covers. 3. Disconnect the
dashboard wire harness 8P connector (A) from the wiper/washer switch (B).
4. Remove the two screws, then slide out the wiper/washer switch. 5. Install the switch in the
reverse order of removal.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer
Interest for Alignment: > 06-068 > May > 09 > Steering/Suspension - Vehicle Pulls Left/Right
Alignment: Customer Interest Steering/Suspension - Vehicle Pulls Left/Right
06-068
May 2, 2009
*Vehicle Pulls or Drifts, and/or Steering Wheel Is Off-Center (Supersedes 06-068, Vehicle Pulling
or Drifting, dated October 4, 2007, to revise the information marked by asterisks) (Replaces
90-011, Steering Wheel Off-Center Adjustment at PDI)*
*REVISION SUMMARY
SYMPTOM
While driving on a straight road, the vehicle pulls or drifts to the right or left.
BACKGROUND
New tools were developed to help you diagnose and correct a pulling and/or steering wheel
off-center issue. There is a diagnosis worksheet included to take on your test-drive and record your
findings. These values are used to build the 15-digit DTC (diagnostic trouble code) that is required
for your warranty claim. The last step in each repair procedure helps you create the correct code.
In the rare case that you have to repair a vehicle that pulls and has the steering wheel off-center,
use REPAIR PROCEDURE B to file your warranty claim.
For more information, refer to Training Module SSC 44 - Steering Drift or Pull Interactive Service
Bulletin.
PROBABLE CAUSES
^ Wheel alignment
^ Tires
^ Off-center steering wheel (no pulling or drifting, but a customer may believe this is the case)
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Diagnose the problem using the special tools and the worksheet on page 4 that guides you to one
of four repair procedures.
TOOL INFORMATION
T/N O7AAJ-001A300
T/N 07AAJ-001A400
WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION
Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request
consideration, and get a decision, before starting work.
TOOL DESCRIPTIONS
The holding force gauge measures the amount of pull on the vehicle. It is a bracket that counts as
one weight, plus five removable weights.
During the test-drive, attach the bracket and the weights to the steering wheel on the side opposite
the pulling direction. For example, if the vehicle pulls to the right, attach the bracket and weights to
the left side of the steering wheel. Start with the maximum amount of weight on the steering wheel,
and remove the weights until the vehicle drives in a straight line.
When recording the pull on the worksheet, write down the direction of the pull (lefi or right) and the
number of weights required to balance the pull (one through six). For example, if you have the
bracket and two weights on the steering wheel, then record this as three weights.
NOTE:
^ Park the vehicle on a level surface, such as an alignment rack, and calibrate the gauge by
moving the gauge until the ball is on the zero mark.
^ If you do not have a perfectly flat surface, park the vehicle on a reasonably flat surface and note
the gauge reading. Turn the vehicle 1800 and, with the tires in the same spot, note the new gauge
reading. Then move the gauge half of the difference. For example, if your first reading is +3 and,
after moving the vehicle, the gauge reads -1, then the difference is 4 degrees. Position the gauge
to read +1.
NOTE:
You must calibrate the gauge with the same weight in the vehicle that you will use for the test-drive.
If you plan to have an assistant help you during the test-drive, calibrate the gauge while both of you
are sitting in the vehicle.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer
Interest for Alignment: > 06-068 > May > 09 > Steering/Suspension - Vehicle Pulls Left/Right > Page 1161
The steering wheel offset gauge is a sticker that attaches to the steering wheel and the steering
column cover. Place the sticker on the steering wheel when the steering wheel is straight. When
you test-drive the vehicle, you can read how many millimeters the steering wheel is off-center.
NOTE:
If the vehicle is pulling, repairing the pull may correct the steering wheel offset.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer
Interest for Alignment: > 06-068 > May > 09 > Steering/Suspension - Vehicle Pulls Left/Right > Page 1162
DIAGNOSTIC WORKSHEET
REPAIR PROCEDURE A
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer
Interest for Alignment: > 06-068 > May > 09 > Steering/Suspension - Vehicle Pulls Left/Right > Page 1163
NOTE:
Do this repair procedure if, after doing step 10 of the test-drive, the vehicle pulled in the opposite
direction after you swapped the front tires.
1. Swap wheels 2 and 4 on the passenger's side of the vehicle, and test-drive again.
^ If the pull goes away, replace the tire on wheel 2, then go to step 3.
^ If the pull does not go away, put wheels 2 and 4 back to their original positions, and go to step 2.
2. Swap wheels 1 and 3 on the driver's side of the vehicle, and test-drive again.
^ If the pull goes away, replace the tire on wheel 1, then go to step 3.
^ If the pull does not go away, use a known-good tire in position 1 and continue diagnosis.
3. Use your diagnosis worksheet to fill in the following table and build your 15-digit DTC.
REPAIR PROCEDURE B
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer
Interest for Alignment: > 06-068 > May > 09 > Steering/Suspension - Vehicle Pulls Left/Right > Page 1164
1. Place the vehicle on a commercially available, computerized, four-wheel alignment rack, and
record the following measurements. Follow the
NOTE:
2. If any measurement is out of specification, inspect the front suspension for any damage. Repair
any damaged parts before continuing your diagnosis.
3. Determine how the front wheel camber is affecting the pull. Pick the combination of left- and
right-front camber that best matches the vehicle you are
repairing, then note the camber thrust direction for that combination:
NOTE:
^ If the camber of both front wheels is negative, but one wheel is grossly more negative than the
other, the camber thrust direction will be opposite the wheel with more negative camber (for
example, if the left-front wheel is more negative, the camber thrust direction is right).
^ If the camber of both front wheels is positive, but one wheel is grossly more positive than the
other, the camber thrust direction will be the same as the wheel with more positive camber (for
example, if the left-front wheel is more positive, the camber thrust direction is left).
NOTE:
The front wheels are being viewed from the rear of the vehicle.
^ Depending which way you need to shift the subframe, insert a pry bar between the subframe and
body at both the front and rear positions of the subframe.
NOTE:
Be careful not to damage the vehicle. You could bend and damage the frame and/or body if you
apply too much pressure.
^ Press on both pry bars to shift the subframe. It will move only a few millimeters. This should
adjust the camber about 0.2-0.5°.
^ While holding the subframe in place, have an assistant torque the subframe bolts to their proper
torque.
^ Adjust the camber by moving the bottom of the damper within the range of the damper pinch bolt
free play.
NOTE:
Some vehicles have special pinch bolts that allow more adjustment. For more information, refer to
the parts catalog.
^ Reinstall the front wheels and lower the vehicle. Bounce the front of the vehicle several times to
stabilize the suspension.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer
Interest for Alignment: > 06-068 > May > 09 > Steering/Suspension - Vehicle Pulls Left/Right > Page 1166
6. Test-drive the vehicle to make sure it no longer pulls. If the steering wheel is now off-center by
more than 2 mm, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE C.
7. Use your diagnosis worksheet to fill in the following table and build your 15-digit DTC.
NOTE:
REPAIR PROCEDURE C
^ Turn the steering wheel all the way to the right until it stops.
^ Turn the steering wheel all the way to the left, and count the number of revolutions until it stops.
^ Divide the number of revolutions in half, and turn the steering wheel until it is centered. For
example, if it takes four revolutions of the steering wheel to go from lock to lock, then two turns is
centered.
^ If the steering wheel is off-center by a large amount (20 mm or more), it may not be centered on
the steering column shaft. Reinstall the steering wheel before going to step 2.
2. Place the vehicle on a lift, turn the steering wheel until it is centered, and then raise the vehicle.
3. Adjust the tie-rods. Use your measurements from question 13 of the test-drive to make your
adjustment.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer
Interest for Alignment: > 06-068 > May > 09 > Steering/Suspension - Vehicle Pulls Left/Right > Page 1167
^ If the wheels are pointed to the right, shorten the driver's side tie-rod, and lengthen the
passenger's side.
^ If the wheels are pointed to the left, shorten the passenger's side tie-rod, and lengthen the
driver's side.
^ Each 360° turn of the tie-rod equals about 8 mm of steering wheel adjustment. For example, a
steering wheel is off-center by 4 mm with the front wheels pointed right (when the steering wheel is
centered). To correct the off-center, shorten the driver's side tie-rod by a half-turn, and lengthen the
passenger's side tie-rod by a half-turn.
4. Use your diagnosis worksheet to fill in the following table and build your 15-digit DTC.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical
Service Bulletins for Alignment: > 06-068 > May > 09 > Steering/Suspension - Vehicle Pulls Left/Right
Alignment: All Technical Service Bulletins Steering/Suspension - Vehicle Pulls Left/Right
06-068
May 2, 2009
*Vehicle Pulls or Drifts, and/or Steering Wheel Is Off-Center (Supersedes 06-068, Vehicle Pulling
or Drifting, dated October 4, 2007, to revise the information marked by asterisks) (Replaces
90-011, Steering Wheel Off-Center Adjustment at PDI)*
*REVISION SUMMARY
SYMPTOM
While driving on a straight road, the vehicle pulls or drifts to the right or left.
BACKGROUND
New tools were developed to help you diagnose and correct a pulling and/or steering wheel
off-center issue. There is a diagnosis worksheet included to take on your test-drive and record your
findings. These values are used to build the 15-digit DTC (diagnostic trouble code) that is required
for your warranty claim. The last step in each repair procedure helps you create the correct code.
In the rare case that you have to repair a vehicle that pulls and has the steering wheel off-center,
use REPAIR PROCEDURE B to file your warranty claim.
For more information, refer to Training Module SSC 44 - Steering Drift or Pull Interactive Service
Bulletin.
PROBABLE CAUSES
^ Wheel alignment
^ Tires
^ Off-center steering wheel (no pulling or drifting, but a customer may believe this is the case)
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Diagnose the problem using the special tools and the worksheet on page 4 that guides you to one
of four repair procedures.
TOOL INFORMATION
T/N O7AAJ-001A300
T/N 07AAJ-001A400
WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION
Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request
consideration, and get a decision, before starting work.
TOOL DESCRIPTIONS
The holding force gauge measures the amount of pull on the vehicle. It is a bracket that counts as
one weight, plus five removable weights.
During the test-drive, attach the bracket and the weights to the steering wheel on the side opposite
the pulling direction. For example, if the vehicle pulls to the right, attach the bracket and weights to
the left side of the steering wheel. Start with the maximum amount of weight on the steering wheel,
and remove the weights until the vehicle drives in a straight line.
When recording the pull on the worksheet, write down the direction of the pull (lefi or right) and the
number of weights required to balance the pull (one through six). For example, if you have the
bracket and two weights on the steering wheel, then record this as three weights.
NOTE:
^ Park the vehicle on a level surface, such as an alignment rack, and calibrate the gauge by
moving the gauge until the ball is on the zero mark.
^ If you do not have a perfectly flat surface, park the vehicle on a reasonably flat surface and note
the gauge reading. Turn the vehicle 1800 and, with the tires in the same spot, note the new gauge
reading. Then move the gauge half of the difference. For example, if your first reading is +3 and,
after moving the vehicle, the gauge reads -1, then the difference is 4 degrees. Position the gauge
to read +1.
NOTE:
You must calibrate the gauge with the same weight in the vehicle that you will use for the test-drive.
If you plan to have an assistant help you during the test-drive, calibrate the gauge while both of you
are sitting in the vehicle.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical
Service Bulletins for Alignment: > 06-068 > May > 09 > Steering/Suspension - Vehicle Pulls Left/Right > Page 1175
The steering wheel offset gauge is a sticker that attaches to the steering wheel and the steering
column cover. Place the sticker on the steering wheel when the steering wheel is straight. When
you test-drive the vehicle, you can read how many millimeters the steering wheel is off-center.
NOTE:
If the vehicle is pulling, repairing the pull may correct the steering wheel offset.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical
Service Bulletins for Alignment: > 06-068 > May > 09 > Steering/Suspension - Vehicle Pulls Left/Right > Page 1176
DIAGNOSTIC WORKSHEET
REPAIR PROCEDURE A
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical
Service Bulletins for Alignment: > 06-068 > May > 09 > Steering/Suspension - Vehicle Pulls Left/Right > Page 1177
NOTE:
Do this repair procedure if, after doing step 10 of the test-drive, the vehicle pulled in the opposite
direction after you swapped the front tires.
1. Swap wheels 2 and 4 on the passenger's side of the vehicle, and test-drive again.
^ If the pull goes away, replace the tire on wheel 2, then go to step 3.
^ If the pull does not go away, put wheels 2 and 4 back to their original positions, and go to step 2.
2. Swap wheels 1 and 3 on the driver's side of the vehicle, and test-drive again.
^ If the pull goes away, replace the tire on wheel 1, then go to step 3.
^ If the pull does not go away, use a known-good tire in position 1 and continue diagnosis.
3. Use your diagnosis worksheet to fill in the following table and build your 15-digit DTC.
REPAIR PROCEDURE B
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical
Service Bulletins for Alignment: > 06-068 > May > 09 > Steering/Suspension - Vehicle Pulls Left/Right > Page 1178
1. Place the vehicle on a commercially available, computerized, four-wheel alignment rack, and
record the following measurements. Follow the
NOTE:
2. If any measurement is out of specification, inspect the front suspension for any damage. Repair
any damaged parts before continuing your diagnosis.
3. Determine how the front wheel camber is affecting the pull. Pick the combination of left- and
right-front camber that best matches the vehicle you are
repairing, then note the camber thrust direction for that combination:
NOTE:
^ If the camber of both front wheels is negative, but one wheel is grossly more negative than the
other, the camber thrust direction will be opposite the wheel with more negative camber (for
example, if the left-front wheel is more negative, the camber thrust direction is right).
^ If the camber of both front wheels is positive, but one wheel is grossly more positive than the
other, the camber thrust direction will be the same as the wheel with more positive camber (for
example, if the left-front wheel is more positive, the camber thrust direction is left).
NOTE:
The front wheels are being viewed from the rear of the vehicle.
^ Depending which way you need to shift the subframe, insert a pry bar between the subframe and
body at both the front and rear positions of the subframe.
NOTE:
Be careful not to damage the vehicle. You could bend and damage the frame and/or body if you
apply too much pressure.
^ Press on both pry bars to shift the subframe. It will move only a few millimeters. This should
adjust the camber about 0.2-0.5°.
^ While holding the subframe in place, have an assistant torque the subframe bolts to their proper
torque.
^ Adjust the camber by moving the bottom of the damper within the range of the damper pinch bolt
free play.
NOTE:
Some vehicles have special pinch bolts that allow more adjustment. For more information, refer to
the parts catalog.
^ Reinstall the front wheels and lower the vehicle. Bounce the front of the vehicle several times to
stabilize the suspension.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical
Service Bulletins for Alignment: > 06-068 > May > 09 > Steering/Suspension - Vehicle Pulls Left/Right > Page 1180
6. Test-drive the vehicle to make sure it no longer pulls. If the steering wheel is now off-center by
more than 2 mm, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE C.
7. Use your diagnosis worksheet to fill in the following table and build your 15-digit DTC.
NOTE:
REPAIR PROCEDURE C
^ Turn the steering wheel all the way to the right until it stops.
^ Turn the steering wheel all the way to the left, and count the number of revolutions until it stops.
^ Divide the number of revolutions in half, and turn the steering wheel until it is centered. For
example, if it takes four revolutions of the steering wheel to go from lock to lock, then two turns is
centered.
^ If the steering wheel is off-center by a large amount (20 mm or more), it may not be centered on
the steering column shaft. Reinstall the steering wheel before going to step 2.
2. Place the vehicle on a lift, turn the steering wheel until it is centered, and then raise the vehicle.
3. Adjust the tie-rods. Use your measurements from question 13 of the test-drive to make your
adjustment.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical
Service Bulletins for Alignment: > 06-068 > May > 09 > Steering/Suspension - Vehicle Pulls Left/Right > Page 1181
^ If the wheels are pointed to the right, shorten the driver's side tie-rod, and lengthen the
passenger's side.
^ If the wheels are pointed to the left, shorten the passenger's side tie-rod, and lengthen the
driver's side.
^ Each 360° turn of the tie-rod equals about 8 mm of steering wheel adjustment. For example, a
steering wheel is off-center by 4 mm with the front wheels pointed right (when the steering wheel is
centered). To correct the off-center, shorten the driver's side tie-rod by a half-turn, and lengthen the
passenger's side tie-rod by a half-turn.
4. Use your diagnosis worksheet to fill in the following table and build your 15-digit DTC.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical
Service Bulletins for Alignment: > Page 1182
Alignment: By Symptom
06-068
May 2, 2009
*Vehicle Pulls or Drifts, and/or Steering Wheel Is Off-Center (Supersedes 06-068, Vehicle Pulling
or Drifting, dated October 4, 2007, to revise the information marked by asterisks) (Replaces
90-011, Steering Wheel Off-Center Adjustment at PDI)*
*REVISION SUMMARY
SYMPTOM
While driving on a straight road, the vehicle pulls or drifts to the right or left.
BACKGROUND
New tools were developed to help you diagnose and correct a pulling and/or steering wheel
off-center issue. There is a diagnosis worksheet included to take on your test-drive and record your
findings. These values are used to build the 15-digit DTC (diagnostic trouble code) that is required
for your warranty claim. The last step in each repair procedure helps you create the correct code.
In the rare case that you have to repair a vehicle that pulls and has the steering wheel off-center,
use REPAIR PROCEDURE B to file your warranty claim.
For more information, refer to Training Module SSC 44 - Steering Drift or Pull Interactive Service
Bulletin.
PROBABLE CAUSES
^ Wheel alignment
^ Tires
^ Off-center steering wheel (no pulling or drifting, but a customer may believe this is the case)
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Diagnose the problem using the special tools and the worksheet on page 4 that guides you to one
of four repair procedures.
TOOL INFORMATION
T/N O7AAJ-001A300
T/N 07AAJ-001A400
Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request
consideration, and get a decision, before starting work.
TOOL DESCRIPTIONS
The holding force gauge measures the amount of pull on the vehicle. It is a bracket that counts as
one weight, plus five removable weights.
During the test-drive, attach the bracket and the weights to the steering wheel on the side opposite
the pulling direction. For example, if the vehicle pulls to the right, attach the bracket and weights to
the left side of the steering wheel. Start with the maximum amount of weight on the steering wheel,
and remove the weights until the vehicle drives in a straight line.
When recording the pull on the worksheet, write down the direction of the pull (lefi or right) and the
number of weights required to balance the pull (one through six). For example, if you have the
bracket and two weights on the steering wheel, then record this as three weights.
NOTE:
^ Park the vehicle on a level surface, such as an alignment rack, and calibrate the gauge by
moving the gauge until the ball is on the zero mark.
^ If you do not have a perfectly flat surface, park the vehicle on a reasonably flat surface and note
the gauge reading. Turn the vehicle 1800 and, with the tires in the same spot, note the new gauge
reading. Then move the gauge half of the difference. For example, if your first reading is +3 and,
after moving the vehicle, the gauge reads -1, then the difference is 4 degrees. Position the gauge
to read +1.
NOTE:
You must calibrate the gauge with the same weight in the vehicle that you will use for the test-drive.
If you plan to have an assistant help you during the test-drive, calibrate the gauge while both of you
are sitting in the vehicle.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical
Service Bulletins for Alignment: > Page 1185
The steering wheel offset gauge is a sticker that attaches to the steering wheel and the steering
column cover. Place the sticker on the steering wheel when the steering wheel is straight. When
you test-drive the vehicle, you can read how many millimeters the steering wheel is off-center.
NOTE:
If the vehicle is pulling, repairing the pull may correct the steering wheel offset.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical
Service Bulletins for Alignment: > Page 1186
DIAGNOSTIC WORKSHEET
REPAIR PROCEDURE A
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical
Service Bulletins for Alignment: > Page 1187
NOTE:
Do this repair procedure if, after doing step 10 of the test-drive, the vehicle pulled in the opposite
direction after you swapped the front tires.
1. Swap wheels 2 and 4 on the passenger's side of the vehicle, and test-drive again.
^ If the pull goes away, replace the tire on wheel 2, then go to step 3.
^ If the pull does not go away, put wheels 2 and 4 back to their original positions, and go to step 2.
2. Swap wheels 1 and 3 on the driver's side of the vehicle, and test-drive again.
^ If the pull goes away, replace the tire on wheel 1, then go to step 3.
^ If the pull does not go away, use a known-good tire in position 1 and continue diagnosis.
3. Use your diagnosis worksheet to fill in the following table and build your 15-digit DTC.
REPAIR PROCEDURE B
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical
Service Bulletins for Alignment: > Page 1188
1. Place the vehicle on a commercially available, computerized, four-wheel alignment rack, and
record the following measurements. Follow the
NOTE:
2. If any measurement is out of specification, inspect the front suspension for any damage. Repair
any damaged parts before continuing your diagnosis.
3. Determine how the front wheel camber is affecting the pull. Pick the combination of left- and
right-front camber that best matches the vehicle you are
repairing, then note the camber thrust direction for that combination:
NOTE:
^ If the camber of both front wheels is negative, but one wheel is grossly more negative than the
other, the camber thrust direction will be opposite the wheel with more negative camber (for
example, if the left-front wheel is more negative, the camber thrust direction is right).
^ If the camber of both front wheels is positive, but one wheel is grossly more positive than the
other, the camber thrust direction will be the same as the wheel with more positive camber (for
example, if the left-front wheel is more positive, the camber thrust direction is left).
NOTE:
The front wheels are being viewed from the rear of the vehicle.
^ Depending which way you need to shift the subframe, insert a pry bar between the subframe and
body at both the front and rear positions of the subframe.
NOTE:
Be careful not to damage the vehicle. You could bend and damage the frame and/or body if you
apply too much pressure.
^ Press on both pry bars to shift the subframe. It will move only a few millimeters. This should
adjust the camber about 0.2-0.5°.
^ While holding the subframe in place, have an assistant torque the subframe bolts to their proper
torque.
^ Adjust the camber by moving the bottom of the damper within the range of the damper pinch bolt
free play.
NOTE:
Some vehicles have special pinch bolts that allow more adjustment. For more information, refer to
the parts catalog.
^ Reinstall the front wheels and lower the vehicle. Bounce the front of the vehicle several times to
stabilize the suspension.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical
Service Bulletins for Alignment: > Page 1190
6. Test-drive the vehicle to make sure it no longer pulls. If the steering wheel is now off-center by
more than 2 mm, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE C.
7. Use your diagnosis worksheet to fill in the following table and build your 15-digit DTC.
NOTE:
REPAIR PROCEDURE C
^ Turn the steering wheel all the way to the right until it stops.
^ Turn the steering wheel all the way to the left, and count the number of revolutions until it stops.
^ Divide the number of revolutions in half, and turn the steering wheel until it is centered. For
example, if it takes four revolutions of the steering wheel to go from lock to lock, then two turns is
centered.
^ If the steering wheel is off-center by a large amount (20 mm or more), it may not be centered on
the steering column shaft. Reinstall the steering wheel before going to step 2.
2. Place the vehicle on a lift, turn the steering wheel until it is centered, and then raise the vehicle.
3. Adjust the tie-rods. Use your measurements from question 13 of the test-drive to make your
adjustment.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical
Service Bulletins for Alignment: > Page 1191
^ If the wheels are pointed to the right, shorten the driver's side tie-rod, and lengthen the
passenger's side.
^ If the wheels are pointed to the left, shorten the passenger's side tie-rod, and lengthen the
driver's side.
^ Each 360° turn of the tie-rod equals about 8 mm of steering wheel adjustment. For example, a
steering wheel is off-center by 4 mm with the front wheels pointed right (when the steering wheel is
centered). To correct the off-center, shorten the driver's side tie-rod by a half-turn, and lengthen the
passenger's side tie-rod by a half-turn.
4. Use your diagnosis worksheet to fill in the following table and build your 15-digit DTC.
06-068
May 2, 2009
*Vehicle Pulls or Drifts, and/or Steering Wheel Is Off-Center (Supersedes 06-068, Vehicle Pulling
or Drifting, dated October 4, 2007, to revise the information marked by asterisks) (Replaces
90-011, Steering Wheel Off-Center Adjustment at PDI)*
*REVISION SUMMARY
SYMPTOM
While driving on a straight road, the vehicle pulls or drifts to the right or left.
BACKGROUND
New tools were developed to help you diagnose and correct a pulling and/or steering wheel
off-center issue. There is a diagnosis worksheet included to take on your test-drive and record your
findings. These values are used to build the 15-digit DTC (diagnostic trouble code) that is required
for your warranty claim. The last step in each repair procedure helps you create the correct code.
In the rare case that you have to repair a vehicle that pulls and has the steering wheel off-center,
use REPAIR PROCEDURE B to file your warranty claim.
For more information, refer to Training Module SSC 44 - Steering Drift or Pull Interactive Service
Bulletin.
PROBABLE CAUSES
^ Wheel alignment
^ Tires
^ Off-center steering wheel (no pulling or drifting, but a customer may believe this is the case)
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Diagnose the problem using the special tools and the worksheet on page 4 that guides you to one
of four repair procedures.
TOOL INFORMATION
T/N O7AAJ-001A300
T/N 07AAJ-001A400
Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request
consideration, and get a decision, before starting work.
TOOL DESCRIPTIONS
The holding force gauge measures the amount of pull on the vehicle. It is a bracket that counts as
one weight, plus five removable weights.
During the test-drive, attach the bracket and the weights to the steering wheel on the side opposite
the pulling direction. For example, if the vehicle pulls
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical
Service Bulletins for Alignment: > Page 1193
to the right, attach the bracket and weights to the left side of the steering wheel. Start with the
maximum amount of weight on the steering wheel, and remove the weights until the vehicle drives
in a straight line.
When recording the pull on the worksheet, write down the direction of the pull (lefi or right) and the
number of weights required to balance the pull (one through six). For example, if you have the
bracket and two weights on the steering wheel, then record this as three weights.
NOTE:
The road crown gauge measures the amount of road crown. Almost all roads have a crown to help
drain water during rainstorms. Use the suction cup to attach the road crown gauge bracket to the
vehicle in a vertical position. If necessary, bend the bracket until the gauge is vertical. Once you
attach and align the road crown gauge, calibrate the gauge to zero. There are two ways to calibrate
the gauge:
^ Park the vehicle on a level surface, such as an alignment rack, and calibrate the gauge by
moving the gauge until the ball is on the zero mark.
^ If you do not have a perfectly flat surface, park the vehicle on a reasonably flat surface and note
the gauge reading. Turn the vehicle 1800 and, with the tires in the same spot, note the new gauge
reading. Then move the gauge half of the difference. For example, if your first reading is +3 and,
after moving the vehicle, the gauge reads -1, then the difference is 4 degrees. Position the gauge
to read +1.
NOTE:
You must calibrate the gauge with the same weight in the vehicle that you will use for the test-drive.
If you plan to have an assistant help you during the test-drive, calibrate the gauge while both of you
are sitting in the vehicle.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical
Service Bulletins for Alignment: > Page 1194
The steering wheel offset gauge is a sticker that attaches to the steering wheel and the steering
column cover. Place the sticker on the steering wheel when the steering wheel is straight. When
you test-drive the vehicle, you can read how many millimeters the steering wheel is off-center.
NOTE:
If the vehicle is pulling, repairing the pull may correct the steering wheel offset.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical
Service Bulletins for Alignment: > Page 1195
DIAGNOSTIC WORKSHEET
REPAIR PROCEDURE A
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical
Service Bulletins for Alignment: > Page 1196
NOTE:
Do this repair procedure if, after doing step 10 of the test-drive, the vehicle pulled in the opposite
direction after you swapped the front tires.
1. Swap wheels 2 and 4 on the passenger's side of the vehicle, and test-drive again.
^ If the pull goes away, replace the tire on wheel 2, then go to step 3.
^ If the pull does not go away, put wheels 2 and 4 back to their original positions, and go to step 2.
2. Swap wheels 1 and 3 on the driver's side of the vehicle, and test-drive again.
^ If the pull goes away, replace the tire on wheel 1, then go to step 3.
^ If the pull does not go away, use a known-good tire in position 1 and continue diagnosis.
3. Use your diagnosis worksheet to fill in the following table and build your 15-digit DTC.
REPAIR PROCEDURE B
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical
Service Bulletins for Alignment: > Page 1197
1. Place the vehicle on a commercially available, computerized, four-wheel alignment rack, and
record the following measurements. Follow the
NOTE:
2. If any measurement is out of specification, inspect the front suspension for any damage. Repair
any damaged parts before continuing your diagnosis.
3. Determine how the front wheel camber is affecting the pull. Pick the combination of left- and
right-front camber that best matches the vehicle you are
repairing, then note the camber thrust direction for that combination:
NOTE:
^ If the camber of both front wheels is negative, but one wheel is grossly more negative than the
other, the camber thrust direction will be opposite the wheel with more negative camber (for
example, if the left-front wheel is more negative, the camber thrust direction is right).
^ If the camber of both front wheels is positive, but one wheel is grossly more positive than the
other, the camber thrust direction will be the same as the wheel with more positive camber (for
example, if the left-front wheel is more positive, the camber thrust direction is left).
NOTE:
The front wheels are being viewed from the rear of the vehicle.
^ Depending which way you need to shift the subframe, insert a pry bar between the subframe and
body at both the front and rear positions of the subframe.
NOTE:
Be careful not to damage the vehicle. You could bend and damage the frame and/or body if you
apply too much pressure.
^ Press on both pry bars to shift the subframe. It will move only a few millimeters. This should
adjust the camber about 0.2-0.5°.
^ While holding the subframe in place, have an assistant torque the subframe bolts to their proper
torque.
^ Adjust the camber by moving the bottom of the damper within the range of the damper pinch bolt
free play.
NOTE:
Some vehicles have special pinch bolts that allow more adjustment. For more information, refer to
the parts catalog.
^ Reinstall the front wheels and lower the vehicle. Bounce the front of the vehicle several times to
stabilize the suspension.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical
Service Bulletins for Alignment: > Page 1199
6. Test-drive the vehicle to make sure it no longer pulls. If the steering wheel is now off-center by
more than 2 mm, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE C.
7. Use your diagnosis worksheet to fill in the following table and build your 15-digit DTC.
NOTE:
REPAIR PROCEDURE C
^ Turn the steering wheel all the way to the right until it stops.
^ Turn the steering wheel all the way to the left, and count the number of revolutions until it stops.
^ Divide the number of revolutions in half, and turn the steering wheel until it is centered. For
example, if it takes four revolutions of the steering wheel to go from lock to lock, then two turns is
centered.
^ If the steering wheel is off-center by a large amount (20 mm or more), it may not be centered on
the steering column shaft. Reinstall the steering wheel before going to step 2.
2. Place the vehicle on a lift, turn the steering wheel until it is centered, and then raise the vehicle.
3. Adjust the tie-rods. Use your measurements from question 13 of the test-drive to make your
adjustment.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical
Service Bulletins for Alignment: > Page 1200
^ If the wheels are pointed to the right, shorten the driver's side tie-rod, and lengthen the
passenger's side.
^ If the wheels are pointed to the left, shorten the passenger's side tie-rod, and lengthen the
driver's side.
^ Each 360° turn of the tie-rod equals about 8 mm of steering wheel adjustment. For example, a
steering wheel is off-center by 4 mm with the front wheels pointed right (when the steering wheel is
centered). To correct the off-center, shorten the driver's side tie-rod by a half-turn, and lengthen the
passenger's side tie-rod by a half-turn.
4. Use your diagnosis worksheet to fill in the following table and build your 15-digit DTC.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 1201
Alignment: Specifications
Alignment
Camber:
Front ....................................................................................................................................................
....................................................... 0°00' ± 30' Rear
Caster:
Front ....................................................................................................................................................
......................................................... 7°00' ± 1°
Total Toe:
Front ....................................................................................................................................................
................................ 0 ± 2 mm (0 ± 0.08 inch) Rear ............................................................................
...................................................................................... 2, +2 -1 mm (0.08, +0.08 -0.04 inch)
Inward ..................................................................................................................................................
...................................................... 40°06' ± 2° Outward .....................................................................
...................................................................................................................... 31°55' (reference)
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 1202
Suspension
Wheel Alignment
The suspension can be adjusted for front camber, front toe, and rear toe. However, each of these
adjustments are related to each other. For example, when you adjust camber, the toe will change.
Therefore, you must adjust the front wheel alignment whenever you adjust camber or toe.
Pre-Alignment Checks
For proper inspection and adjustment of the wheel alignment, do these checks:
1. Release the parking brake to avoid an incorrect measurement. 2. Make sure the suspension is
not modified. 3. Check the tire size and pressure.
Tire size: Front/Rear: P195/65R15 89H Tire pressure (at cold): Front/Rear: 210 kPa (2.1 kgf/cm2,
30 psi)
4. Check the runout of the wheels and tires. 5. Check the suspension ball joints. (Hold a tire with
your hands, and move it up and down and right and left to check for wobbling.)
6. Bounce the vehicle up and down several times to settle the suspension. 7. Check that the
steering column is set at the center tilt and telescopic position.
Caster Inspection
Use commercially available computerized four wheel alignment equipment to measure wheel
alignment (caster, camber, toe, and turning angle). Follow the equipment manufacturer's
instructions.
^ If the measurement is not within specifications, check for bent or damaged suspension
components.
Camber Inspection
Use commercially available computerized four wheel alignment equipment to measure wheel
alignment (caster, camber, toe, and turning angle). Follow the equipment manufacturer's
instructions.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 1203
Front Camber Adjustment
The front camber can be adjusted by exchanging one or both of the damper pinch bolts with a
smaller diameter adjusting bolt. The difference between the adjusting bolt diameter and the pinch
bolt hole diameter allows for a small range of adjustment.
1. Raise the front of the vehicle, and support it with safety stands in the proper locations. 2.
Remove the front wheels. 3. Loosen the damper pinch bolts (A), and adjust the camber angle by
moving the bottom of the damper within the range of the damper pinch bolt
free play.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 1204
4. Tighten the damper pinch bolts to the specified torque. 5. Clean the mating surfaces of the brake
disc and the inside of the wheel, then install the front wheels. 6. Lower the vehicle to the ground,
and bounce the front of the vehicle up and down several times to settle the suspension. 7. Measure
the camber angle.
8. Raise the front of the vehicle, and support it with safety stands in the proper locations. 9.
Remove the front wheels.
10. Replace the damper pinch bolts with the adjusting bolts (A), and adjust the camber angle.
11. Tighten the adjusting bolts to the specified torque value. 12. Clean the mating surfaces of the
brake disc and the inside of the wheel, then install the front wheels. 13. Lower the vehicle to the
ground, and bounce the front of the vehicle up and down several times to settle the suspension. 14.
Measure the camber angle. If the camber angle is not within specification, repeat steps 8 through
13 to readjust the camber angle. If the camber
1. Set the steering column to the center tilt and center telescopic position, then center the steering
wheel spokes, and install a steering wheel holder
tool.
3. Loosen the tie-rod locknuts (A) while holding the flat surface sections (B) of the tie-rod end with a
wrench, and turn both tie-rods (C) until the
Use commercially available computerized four wheel alignment equipment to measure wheel
alignment (caster, camber, toe, and turning angle). Follow the equipment manufacturer's
instructions.
1. Release the parking brake to avoid an incorrect measurement. 2. Check the toe.
3. Hold the adjusting bolt (A) on the trailing arm (B), and remove the self-locking nut (C).
4. Replace the self-locking nut with a new one, and lightly tighten it.
NOTE: ^
^ Reassemble the adjusting bolt and the adjusting cam plate with the eccentric facing up.
5. Adjust the rear toe by turning the adjusting bolt until the toe is correct. 6. Tighten the self-locking
nut while holding the adjusting bolt.
Use commercially available computerized four wheel alignment equipment to measure wheel
alignment (caster, camber, toe, and turning angle). Follow the equipment manufacturer's
instructions.
1. Turn the wheel right and left while applying the brakes, and measure the turning angle of both
wheels.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 1206
2. If the turning angle is not within the specifications, check for bent or damaged suspension
components.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Fuel Pressure > System
Information > Specifications
Fuel Pressure: Specifications
*at idle, as measured at the Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor, using the HDS or a scantool.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Fuel Pressure > System
Information > Specifications > Page 1211
Fuel Pressure: Service Precautions
WARNING: Adhere to the following procedures any time the fuel system is being worked on in
order to reduce the risk of fire and personal injury:
- Keep a dry chemical (Class B) fire extinguisher near the work area.
- Work in a well-ventilated area. Do not smoke, and keep sparks and open flames away.
- Use caution when working near the catalytic converter to prevent the possibility of burns or fire.
(The temperatures within the converter can exceed 537 °C (1000 °F).
- Relieve the fuel system pressure prior to disconnecting fuel system components.
- Disconnect the negative battery cable except for tests where battery voltage is required.
- After making any fuel system repairs ALWAYS inspect for fuel leaks.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Fuel Pressure > System
Information > Specifications > Page 1212
Fuel Pressure: Testing and Inspection
Fuel pressure can only be checked using the HDS and viewing the FUEL RAIL PRESSURE
SENSOR readings.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Idle Speed > System Information
> Specifications
Idle Speed: Specifications
When the engine is cold, the A/C compressor is on, the transmission is in gear, the brake pedal is
pressed, the power steering load is high, or the alternator is charging, the PCM sends signals to
the throttle actuator to maintain the correct idle speed.
The brake pedal position switch signals the PCM when the brake pedal is pressed.
The PSP switch signals the PCM when the power steering load is high.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Idle Speed > System Information
> Specifications > Page 1217
NOTE:
The malfunction indicator lamp (MIL) has not been reported on, and there are no DTCs.
- Ignition timing
- Sparkplugs
- Air cleaner
- PCV system
- Apply the parking brake, and make sure the headlights are off.
1. Connect the HDS to the data link connector (DLC) (A) located under the driver's side of the
dashboard.
2. Make sure the HDS communicates with the PCM. If it doesn't go to the DLC circuit
troubleshooting. See: Powertrain Management/Computers
3. Start the engine. Hold the engine speed at 3,000 rpm without load (in Park or neutral) until the
radiator fan comes on, then let it idle. 4. Check the idle speed without load conditions: headlights,
blower fan, radiator fan, and air conditioner off.
beam).
NOTE: If the idle speed is not within specification, do the PCM idle learn procedure, If the idle
speed is still not within specification, go to symptom troubleshooting.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Air Cleaner Housing > Air Filter
Element > Component Information > Testing and Inspection
2. Remove the air cleaner element (B) from the air cleaner housing (C). 3. Check the air cleaner
element for damage or clogging. If it is damaged or clogged, replace it.
NOTE: Do not use compressed air to clean the air cleaner element.
4. Install the parts in the reverse order of removal. Clean and remove any debris from inside the air
cleaner. 5. If the maintenance minder required air cleaner element replacement, reset the
maintenance minder.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Air Cleaner Housing > Air Filter
Element > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Page 1222
2. Remove the air cleaner element (B) from the air cleaner housing (C). 3. Check the air cleaner
element for damage or clogging. If it is damaged or clogged, replace it.
NOTE: Do not use compressed air to clean the air cleaner element.
4. Install the parts in the reverse order of removal. Clean and remove any debris from inside the air
cleaner. 5. If the maintenance minder required air cleaner element replacement, reset the
maintenance minder.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Fuel Filter > Fuel Pressure
Release > System Information > Service and Repair
Fuel Pressure Release: Service and Repair
WARNING: Compressed natural gas is flammable and highly explosive. You could be killed or
seriously injured if leaking natural gas is ignited. Stop the engine, and keep heat, sparks and
flames away.
This procedure should be done outside in a well-ventilated area or in a properly equipped CNG
shop.
This procedure will allow you to safely work on any part of the fuel system downstream of the
manual shut-off valve, such as fuel pressure regulator P1 or the fuel injectors.
1. Lift the vehicle, and support it with jackstands. 2. Close the manual shut-off valve (A).
3. Start the engine, and let it idle. After a few minutes, the engine will stall. 4. Turn the ignition
switch OFF.
This procedure will allow you to safely work on any part of the fuel system downstream of the fuel
tank such as the fuel joint block or the manual shut-off valve.
1. Remove the rear seat. 2. Disconnect the fuel subharness 6P connector (A) (this prevents the
tank from supplying fuel to the system).
3. Start the engine, and let it idle. After a few minutes, the engine will stall. 4. Turn the ignition
switch OFF.
This procedure will allow you to safely work on any part of the fuel system between the fuel joint
block and fuel receptacle.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Fuel Filter > Fuel Pressure
Release > System Information > Service and Repair > Page 1227
1. Relieve the fuel pressure between the fuel tank and the manual shut-off valve (see the previous
procedure). 2. Remove the under floor cover (A).
3. Loosen the sealing bolt (A) on the fuel joint block slowly.
4. Turn the fuel stem assembly (B) 1/2-1 turn counterclockwise. 5. Replace the fuel stem assembly
and sealing bolt O-ring (C).
NOTE: This procedure degrades the integrity of the fuel tank. Do it only if you are replacing the fuel
tank.
1. Lift the vehicle and support it with jackstands. 2. Close the manual shut-off valve (A).
3. Start the engine, and let it idle. After a few minutes, the engine will stall.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Fuel Filter > Fuel Pressure
Release > System Information > Service and Repair > Page 1228
4. Turn the ignition switch OFF, and disconnect the negative cable from the battery. 5. Connect a
ground wire (A) (available from AH special tools department) to the fuel line to eliminate any static
electricity.
6. Disconnect the fuel supply pipe (B) from fuel pressure regulator P1 (C). Be careful not to lose the
O-rings.
NOTE: Always use two wrenches when removing or installing the fuel pipe nut.
7. Connect the vent tube to the fuel supply pipe. 8. Secure the other end of the vent tube to the
highest possible location. 9. Remove the fuel pipe duct, and slowly remove the manual lock-down
valve (A). Install the manual override vent tool (B) (available from AH
10. Slowly turn the tool's Allen bolt clockwise until it stops. This opens the line between the fuel
tank and the manual shut-off valve. 11. Open the manual shut-off valve so fuel can vent from the
fuel tank. The fuel tank is empty when the hissing sound goes away. 12. Remove the manual
override vent tool.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Firing Order > Component
Information > Specifications
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Ignition Timing > System
Information > Specifications
Ignition Timing: Specifications
Ignition Timing
M/T:
......................................................................................................................................................... 8
° ± 2 ° BTDC (RED mark (B)) at idle in Neutral A/T:
........................................................................................................................................................... 8
° ± 2 ° BTDC (RED mark (B)) at idle in N or P
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Ignition Timing > System
Information > Specifications > Page 1235
Ignition Timing: Description and Operation
The PCM contains the memory for basic ignition timing at various engine speeds and manifold
absolute pressure. It also adjusts the timing according to engine coolant temperature and intake air
temperature.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Ignition Timing > System
Information > Specifications > Page 1236
Ignition Timing: Testing and Inspection
1. Connect the Honda Diagnostic System (HDS) to the data link connector (DLC). 2. Turn the
ignition switch to ON (II). 3. Make sure the HDS communicates with the vehicle and the ECM/PCM.
If it doesn't communicate, troubleshoot the DLC circuit. 4. Check for DTCs. If a DTC is present,
diagnose and repair the cause before continuing with this test. 5. Start the engine. Hold the engine
speed at 3,000 rpm with no load (in N or P (A/T) or neutral (M/T)) until the radiator fan comes on,
then let it
idle.
6. Check the idle speed. 7. Jump the SCS line with the HDS. 8. Connect the timing light to the No.
1 ignition coil harness.
9. Aim the light toward the pointer (A) on the cam chain case. Check the ignition timing under a no
load condition (headlights, blower fan, rear
10. If the ignition timing differs from the specification, check the cam timing. If the cam timing is OK,
update the engine control module
(ECM)/powertrain control module (PCM) if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a
known-good ECM/PCM, then recheck. If the system works properly, and the ECM/PCM was
substituted, replace the original ECM/PCM.
Torque .................................................................................................................................................
...................................... 25 N.m (2.5 kgf.m, 18 lbf.ft)
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Spark Plug > Component
Information > Specifications > Page 1240
Spark Plug: Application and ID
Spark Plugs
NGK: ....................................................................................................................................................
................................................................ IFR7F8DS
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Spark Plug > Component
Information > Specifications > Page 1241
Spark Plug: Testing and Inspection
1. Remove the spark plugs and inspect the electrodes and ceramic insulator.
- Insufficient cooling
2. If the spark plug electrode is dirty or contaminated, clean the electrode with a plug cleaner.
NOTE: -
Do not use a wire brush or scrape the iridium electrode since this will damage the electrode.
- When using a sand blaster spark plug cleaner, do not clean for more than 20 seconds to avoid
damaging the electrode.
4. Replace the plug at the specified interval, or if the center electrode is rounded (A). Use only the
spark plugs as listed.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Spark Plug > Component
Information > Specifications > Page 1242
5. Apply a small amount of anti-seize compound to the plug threads, and screw the plugs into the
cylinder head, finger-tight. Torque them to 25 N-m
NOTE: After this inspection, you must reset the engine control module (ECM)/powertrain control
module (PCM), otherwise the ECM/PCM will continue to stop the injectors from functioning.
1. Warm up the engine to normal operating temperature (cooling fan comes on). 2. Turn the ignition
switch to LOCK (0). 3. Connect the HDS to the data link connector (DLC). 4. Turn the ignition
switch to ON (II). 5. Make sure the HDS communicates with the vehicle and the ECM/PCM. If it
doesn't communicate, troubleshoot the DLC circuit. 6. Select PGM-FI, INSPECTION, then ALL
INJECTORS OFF function on the HDS. 7. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). 8. Remove the four
ignition coils. 9. Remove the four spark plugs.
11. Open the throttle fully, crank the engine with the starter motor and measure the compression.
13. If the compression is not within specifications, check the following items, then remeasure the
compression.
14. Remove the compression gauge from the spark plug hole. 15. Install the four spark plugs. 16.
Install the four ignition coils. 17. Select ECM/PCM reset to cancel the ALL INJECTORS OFF on the
HDS. 18. Do the ECM/PCM idle learn procedure.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Valve Clearance > System
Information > Specifications
Valve Clearance
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Valve Clearance > System
Information > Specifications > Page 1250
Valve Clearance: Adjustments
NOTE: Adjust the valves only when the cylinder head temperature is less than 100°F (38°C).
1. Remove the cylinder head cover. 2. Set the No. 1 piston at top dead center (TDC). The "UP"
mark (A) on the camshaft sprocket should be at the top, and the TDC grooves (B) on the
camshaft sprocket should line up with the top edge of the head.
3. Select the correct thickness feeler gauge for the valves you're going to check.
4. Insert the feeler gauge (A) between the adjusting screw and the end of the valve stem on No. 1
cylinder and slide it back and forth; you should feel
6. Tighten the locknut, and recheck the clearance. Repeat the adjustment, if necessary. 7. Tighten
the locknut.
8. Recheck the valve clearance. Repeat the adjustment if necessary. 9. Rotate the crankshaft
clockwise. Align the No. 3 piston TDC groove (A) on the camshaft sprocket with the top edge of the
head.
10. Check, and if necessary, adjust the valve clearance on No. 3 cylinder. 11. Rotate the
crankshaft clockwise. Align the No. 4 piston TDC groove (A) on the camshaft sprocket with the top
edge of the head.
12. Check, and if necessary, adjust the valve clearance on No. 4 cylinder. 13. Rotate the
crankshaft clockwise. Align the No. 2 piston TDC groove (A) on the camshaft sprocket with the top
edge of the head.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Valve Clearance > System
Information > Specifications > Page 1252
14. Check, and if necessary, adjust the valve clearance on No. 2 cylinder. 15. Install the cylinder
head cover.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Timing Component Alignment Marks > Component Information > Locations
Timing Component Alignment Marks: Locations
Caution: Incorrect removal or installation of the timing chain can result in damage to internal engine
components.
For complete Timing Chain Removal and Installation information, please refer to Timing Chain;
Service and Repair.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Drive Belt > Component Information > Testing and Inspection
1. Inspect the belt for cracks or damage. If the belt is cracked or damaged, replace it. 2. Check that
the auto-tensioner indicator (A) is within the standard range (B) as shown. If it is out of the standard
range, replace the drive belt. After
3. If the maintenance minder required you to inspect the drive belt, reset the maintenance minder,
and this procedure is complete.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Drive Belt > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Page 1259
Drive Belt: Service and Repair
1. Set a long-handled, boxed-end wrench on the drive belt auto-tensioner from above the engine.
Slowly turn the wrench in the direction shown, then
NOTE: This is a hydraulic type auto-tensioner; you must turn the wrench slowly.
-Lightweight and slim design -Equipped with 14mm and 19mm, 12 point securing attachments
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Drive Belt > Component Information > Tools and Equipment > Electrical /
Mechanical Repair > Page 1262
-Works on most Honda applications
Honda serpentine belt wrench equipped with 14mm and 19mm, 12 point secured sockets, for
engagement every 30 degrees. Ideal for strong tensioners used on 2006 and newer civics.
2. Remove the air cleaner element (B) from the air cleaner housing (C). 3. Check the air cleaner
element for damage or clogging. If it is damaged or clogged, replace it.
NOTE: Do not use compressed air to clean the air cleaner element.
4. Install the parts in the reverse order of removal. Clean and remove any debris from inside the air
cleaner. 5. If the maintenance minder required air cleaner element replacement, reset the
maintenance minder.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Filters > Air Cleaner Housing > Air Filter Element > Component Information >
Testing and Inspection > Page 1269
2. Remove the air cleaner element (B) from the air cleaner housing (C). 3. Check the air cleaner
element for damage or clogging. If it is damaged or clogged, replace it.
NOTE: Do not use compressed air to clean the air cleaner element.
4. Install the parts in the reverse order of removal. Clean and remove any debris from inside the air
cleaner. 5. If the maintenance minder required air cleaner element replacement, reset the
maintenance minder.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Filters > Cabin Air Filter > Component Information > Service and Repair
1. Open the glove box. Remove the glove box stop on each side, then let the glove box hang down.
2. Remove the dust and pollen filter assembly (A) from the evaporator.
3. Remove the filter (A) from the housing (B), and replace the filter.
4. Install the filter in the reverse order of removal. Make sure that there is no air leaking out of the
evaporator.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Filters > Fluid Filter - A/T > Component Information > Service and Repair
1. Remove the air cleaner assembly and the intake air duct. 2. Disconnect the ATF warmer hose
(A) from the ATF filter (B).
3. Remove the ATF filter holder (C). 4. Remove the bolt (D) securing the ATF inlet line (E). 5.
Remove the joint bolt (F) from the ATF inlet line. 6. Disconnect the ATF filter from the ATF warmer
hose (G), and replace it with new one. 7. Slide the ATF warmer hose (A) on the new ATF filter until
the hose end contacts the filter housing, and secure the hose with the clip (H) at 6 - 8
8. Install the ATF filter and the ATF inlet line/hose with the joint bolt and new sealing washers (J).
9. Secure the ATF filter with the ATF filter holder and the bolt.
10. Slide the ATF warmer hose (G) on the ATF filter until the hose end contacts the filter housing,
and secure the hose with the clip (K) at 6 - 8 mm
11. Install the intake air duct and the air cleaner assembly.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Filters > Fuel Filter > Fuel Pressure Release > System Information > Service
and Repair
Fuel Pressure Release: Service and Repair
WARNING: Compressed natural gas is flammable and highly explosive. You could be killed or
seriously injured if leaking natural gas is ignited. Stop the engine, and keep heat, sparks and
flames away.
This procedure should be done outside in a well-ventilated area or in a properly equipped CNG
shop.
This procedure will allow you to safely work on any part of the fuel system downstream of the
manual shut-off valve, such as fuel pressure regulator P1 or the fuel injectors.
1. Lift the vehicle, and support it with jackstands. 2. Close the manual shut-off valve (A).
3. Start the engine, and let it idle. After a few minutes, the engine will stall. 4. Turn the ignition
switch OFF.
This procedure will allow you to safely work on any part of the fuel system downstream of the fuel
tank such as the fuel joint block or the manual shut-off valve.
1. Remove the rear seat. 2. Disconnect the fuel subharness 6P connector (A) (this prevents the
tank from supplying fuel to the system).
3. Start the engine, and let it idle. After a few minutes, the engine will stall. 4. Turn the ignition
switch OFF.
This procedure will allow you to safely work on any part of the fuel system between the fuel joint
block and fuel receptacle.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Filters > Fuel Filter > Fuel Pressure Release > System Information > Service
and Repair > Page 1280
1. Relieve the fuel pressure between the fuel tank and the manual shut-off valve (see the previous
procedure). 2. Remove the under floor cover (A).
3. Loosen the sealing bolt (A) on the fuel joint block slowly.
4. Turn the fuel stem assembly (B) 1/2-1 turn counterclockwise. 5. Replace the fuel stem assembly
and sealing bolt O-ring (C).
NOTE: This procedure degrades the integrity of the fuel tank. Do it only if you are replacing the fuel
tank.
1. Lift the vehicle and support it with jackstands. 2. Close the manual shut-off valve (A).
3. Start the engine, and let it idle. After a few minutes, the engine will stall.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Filters > Fuel Filter > Fuel Pressure Release > System Information > Service
and Repair > Page 1281
4. Turn the ignition switch OFF, and disconnect the negative cable from the battery. 5. Connect a
ground wire (A) (available from AH special tools department) to the fuel line to eliminate any static
electricity.
6. Disconnect the fuel supply pipe (B) from fuel pressure regulator P1 (C). Be careful not to lose the
O-rings.
NOTE: Always use two wrenches when removing or installing the fuel pipe nut.
7. Connect the vent tube to the fuel supply pipe. 8. Secure the other end of the vent tube to the
highest possible location. 9. Remove the fuel pipe duct, and slowly remove the manual lock-down
valve (A). Install the manual override vent tool (B) (available from AH
10. Slowly turn the tool's Allen bolt clockwise until it stops. This opens the line between the fuel
tank and the manual shut-off valve. 11. Open the manual shut-off valve so fuel can vent from the
fuel tank. The fuel tank is empty when the hissing sound goes away. 12. Remove the manual
override vent tool.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Filters > Oil Filter, Engine > Component Information > Service and Repair
1. Remove the oil filter with the oil filter wrench. 2. Inspect the filter to make sure the rubber seal is
not stuck to the oil filter seating surface of the engine. 3. Inspect the threads (A) and rubber seal
(B) on the new filter. Clean the seat on the oil pan, then apply a light coat of new engine oil to the
filter
4. Install the oil filter by hand. 5. After the rubber seal seats, tighten the oil filter clockwise with the
oil filter wrench.
6. If four numbers or marks (1 to 4 or V to VVVV) are printed around the outside of the filter, you
can use the following procedure to tighten the
filter. ^
Spin the filter on until its seal lightly seats against the oil pan, and note which number or mark is at
the bottom.
^ Tighten the filter by turning it clockwise three numbers or marks from the one you noted. For
example, if mark V is at the bottom when the seal is lightly seated, tighten the filter until the mark
VVVV comes around to the bottom.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Filters > Oil Filter, Engine > Component Information > Service and Repair >
Page 1285
7. After installation, fill the engine with oil up to the specified level, run the engine for at least 3
minutes, then check for oil leakage.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Hoses > Hose/Line HVAC > Component Information > Service and Repair
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Hoses > Power Steering Line/Hose > Component Information > Service and
Repair
Honda heavy duty brake fluid DOT 3 preferred, or a DOT 3 or DOT 4 brake fluid as a temporary
replacement.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fluids > Clutch Fluid > Component Information > Specifications
Clutch Fluid: Specifications
Honda Heavy Duty Brake Fluid DOT 3 Always use Honda DOT 3 Brake Fluid. Using a non-Honda
brake fluid can cause corrosion and decrease the life of the system.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fluids > Coolant > Component Information > Specifications > Capacity
Specifications
Coolant: Capacity Specifications
Coolant Replacement
4-door model
Coolant change
M/T ......................................................................................................................................................
......................................... 1.37 US gal (5.2 L) A/T ..............................................................................
.................................................................................................................. 1.40 US gal (5.3 L)
Overhaul
M/T ......................................................................................................................................................
......................................... 1.72 US gal (6.5 L) A/T ..............................................................................
.................................................................................................................. 1.77 US gal (6.7 L)
2-door model
Coolant change
M/T ......................................................................................................................................................
......................................... 1.37 US gal (5.2 L) A/T ..............................................................................
.................................................................................................................. 1.45 US gal (5.5 L)
Overhaul
M/T ......................................................................................................................................................
......................................... 1.72 US gal (6.5 L) A/T ..............................................................................
.................................................................................................................. 1.88 US gal (7.1 L)
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fluids > Coolant > Component Information > Specifications > Capacity
Specifications > Page 1304
Coolant: Fluid Type Specifications
Always use Honda All Season Antifreeze/Coolant Type 2. Using a non-Honda coolant can result in
corrosion, causing the cooling system to malfunction or fail. Honda All Season Antifreeze/Coolant
Type 2 is a mixture of 50 % antifreeze and 50 % water. Premixing is not required.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fluids > Coolant > Component Information > Specifications > Page 1305
Coolant Check
1. Look at the coolant level in the coolant reservoir. Make sure it is between the MAX mark (A) and
MIN mark (B).
2. If the coolant level in the coolant reservoir is at or below the MIN mark, add coolant to bring it
between the MIN and MAX marks, then inspect
Coolant Replacement
1. Start the engine. Set the heater temperature control dial to maximum heat, then turn off the
ignition switch. Make sure the engine and radiator are
2. Remove the radiator cap. 3. Loosen the drain plug (A), and drain the coolant.
4. Remove the drain bolt (A) located at the front of the engine block.
5. After the coolant has drained, apply liquid gasket to the drain bolt threads, then reinstall the bolt
with a new washer and tighten it securely. 6. Tighten the radiator drain plug securely. 7. Remove
the coolant reservoir, then drain the coolant, and reinstall the reserve tank. 8. Fill the coolant
reservoir tank to the MAX mark (A) with Honda Long Life Antifreeze/Coolant Type 2 (P/N
OL999-9001).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fluids > Coolant > Component Information > Specifications > Page 1307
9. Pour Honda Long Life Antifreeze/Coolant Type 2 into the radiator up to the base of the filler
neck.
10. Loosely install the radiator cap. 11. Start the engine, and let it run until it warms up (the radiator
fan comes on at least twice). 12. If the maintenance minder indicated to replace the engine coolant,
reset the maintenance minder, then go to step 20. If the maintenance minder did
A/T Fluid
Always use Honda ATF-Z1. Using a non-Honda ATF can affect shift quality.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fluids > Fluid - A/T > Component Information > Service and Repair > ATF
Level Check
1. Park the vehicle on the level ground. 2. Start the engine, and warm it up to normal operating
temperature (the radiator fan comes on), and turn the engine off. Do not allow the engine to
warm up more than two cycles of the cooling fan.
NOTE: Check the fluid level within 60 - 90 seconds after turning the engine off. Higher fluid level
may be indicated if the radiator fan comes on twice or more.
3. Remove the dipstick (yellow loop) (A), and wipe it with a clean cloth.
4. Insert the dipstick into the transmission. 5. Remove the dipstick and check the fluid level. It
should be between the upper mark (A) and the lower mark (B).
6. If the level is below the lower mark, check for fluid leaks at the transmission, the hoses, and the
line joints. If a problem is found, fix it before
NOTE: If the vehicle is driven when the ATF level is below the lower mark:
^ The vehicle may accelerate poorly, and flare when starting off in D and R.
7. If the level is above the upper mark, drain the ATF to proper level.
NOTE: If the vehicle is driven when the ATF level is above the upper mark, the vehicle may creep
forward while in N, or have problems shifting.
8. If necessary, fill the transmission with ATF through the dipstick hole (A) to bring the fluid level
between the upper mark and the lower mark of the
dipstick. Do not fill the fluid above the upper mark. Always use genuine Honda ATF-Z1 automatic
transmission fluid (ATF). Using a non-Honda ATF can affect shift quality.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fluids > Fluid - A/T > Component Information > Service and Repair > ATF
Level Check > Page 1316
ATF Replacement
1. Start the engine, and warm it up to normal operating temperature (the radiator fan comes on). 2.
Park the vehicle on the level ground, and turn the engine off. 3. Remove the drain plug (A), and
drain the automatic transmission fluid (ATF).
4. Reinstall the drain plug with a new sealing washer (B). 5. Refill the transmission with the
recommended fluid into the dipstick hole to bring the fluid level between the upper mark and the
lower mark of the
dipstick. Always use Honda ATF-Z1 automatic transmission fluid (ATF). Using a non-Honda ATF
can affect shift quality.
Automatic Transmission Fluid Capacity: 2.4 L (2.5 US qt, 2.1 Imp qt) at change 5.9 L (6.2 US qt,
5.2 Imp qt, at overhaul
6. Check that the fluid level is between the upper mark and the lower mark of the dipstick. 7. Insert
the dipstick back into the transmission. 8. Connect the HDS to the DLC (A) located behind the
driver's dashboard lower cover.
9. Make sure the HDS communicates with the PCM. If it does not, go to the DLC circuit
troubleshooting.
10. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), and reset the ATF life with the HDS. 11. '06 4-door model
and '07-08 2 and 4 door models: If the maintenance minder recommends replacing the ATF, reset
the maintenance minder, and
this procedure is complete. If the maintenance minder did not recommend replacing the ATF, go to
step 12.
^ '06 2-door model: If the maintenance minder recommends replacing the ATF, reset the
maintenance minder, and this procedure is complete. If the maintenance minder did not
recommend replacing the ATF, notify the customer that the maintenance minder service interval
has not been reached and the maintenance minder will still be on the same interval as before.
12. Select BODY ELECTRICAL with the HDS. 13. Select ADJUSTMENT in the GAUGES MENU
with the HDS. 14. Select RESET in the MAINTENANCE MINDER with the HDS. 15. Select
RESETTING THE ATF with the HDS.
NOTE: If you changed the engine oil at the same time with the ATF, select RESETTING THE
ENGINE OIL LIFE AND ATF with the HDS
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fluids > Fluid - A/T > Component Information > Service and Repair > ATF
Level Check > Page 1318
instead.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fluids > Fluid - M/T > Component Information > Specifications
Fluid - M/T: Specifications
M/T Fluid
Always use Honda MTF. Using motor oil can cause stiffer shifting because it does not contain the
proper additives.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fluids > Engine Oil > Component Information > Specifications > Capacity
Specifications
Engine Oil: Capacity Specifications
Engine Oil
API Classification
.................................................................................................................................... Make sure the
label says "For Gasoline Engines". SAE Viscosity ..............................................................................
............................................................................................................................... 5W-20
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fluids > Engine Oil > Component Information > Specifications > Page 1327
Engine Oil: Service and Repair
1. Warm up the engine. 2. Remove the drain bolt (A), and drain the engine oil.
3. Reinstall the drain bolt with a new washer (B). 4. Refill the engine with the recommended oil.
5. '06 4-door model and '07-08 2 and 4-door models: If the maintenance minder indicated to
replace the engine oil, reset the maintenance minder,
then go to step 13. If the maintenance minder did not indicate to replace the engine oil, go to step
6. '06 2-door model: If the maintenance minder indicated to replace the engine oil, reset the
maintenance minder, then go to step 13. If the maintenance minder did not indicate to replace the
engine oil, notify the customer that the maintenance minder term was not reset and the
maintenance minder will indicate to replace the engine oil before it is actually needed.
6. Connect the HDS to the data link connector (DLC). 7. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 8. Make
sure the HDS communicates with the vehicle and the ECM/PCM. If it doesn't communicate,
troubleshoot the DLC circuit. 9. Select BODY ELECTRICAL with the HDS.
10. Select ADJUSTMENT in the GAUGES MENU with the HDS. 11. Select RESET in the
MAINTENANCE MINDER with the HDS. 12. Select RESETTING THE ENGINE OIL LIFE with the
HDS.
NOTE: If you changed the ATF at the same time with the engine oil, select RESETTING THE
ENGINE OIL LIFE AND ATF with the HDS instead.
13. Run the engine for at least 3 minutes, then check for oil leakage.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fluids > Engine Oil > Component Information > Specifications > Page 1328
14. Reset the maintenance information display.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fluids > Power Steering Fluid > Component Information > Specifications
Power Steering Fluid: Specifications
Honda power steering fluid preferred, or another brand of fluid as a temporary replacement. Do not
use ATF.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fluids > Power Steering Fluid > Component Information > Specifications >
Page 1332
Power Steering Fluid: Service and Repair
Fluid Replacement
Check the reservoir (A) at regular intervals, and add the recommended fluid as necessary. Always
use Honda Power Steering Fluid. Use of any other type of power steering fluid or automatic
transmission fluid can cause increased wear and poor steering in cold weather.
1. Remove the reservoir from its holder. Raise the reservoir, then disconnect the return hose (A) to
drain the reservoir. Take care not to spill the fluid
on the body and parts. Wipe off any spilled fluid at once.
2. Connect a hose (B) of suitable diameter to the disconnected return hose, and put the hose end
in a suitable container. 3. Start the engine, let it run at idle, and turn the steering wheel from
lock-to-lock several times. When fluid stops running out of the hose, shut off the
4. Reinstall the return hose on the reservoir. 5. Fill the reservoir to the upper level line (C). 6. Start
the engine and run it at idle, then turn the steering from lock-to-lock several times to bleed air from
the system. 7. Recheck the fluid level and add some if necessary. Do not fill the reservoir beyond
the upper level line. 8. If the fluid is contaminated, dark, or discolored, repeat the procedure as
necessary.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fluids > Refrigerant > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
A/C - Refrigerant Leak Detection
07-030
(Supersedes 07-030, dated June 15, 2007, to update the information marked by asterisks)
The OPTIMAX Jr. (TM)A/C Leak Detection Kit for Honda vehicles, P/N TRP124893, is a new
required tool. The kit is used to add small amounts of dye to A/C systems to help locate smaller
leaks that an electronic leak detector might not find.
When searching for leaks, always begin by using an electronic leak detector. Refer to Service
Bulletin 97-027, Denso HLD-100 Halogen Leak Detector; for tips on using this tool, then follow up
with the OPTIMAX Jr.
This new detection kit complements but does not replace the electronic detector.
^ TRP8640CS, OPTIMAX Jr. (TM) cordless, fluorescent leak detection flashlight lamp (includes 3
standard AA batteries)
^ TRP38600601, (6) 0.06 oz. (1.7 g) Tracer-Stick(R) R134a/PAG A/C dye capsules with ID labels
ORDERING INFO
*One OPTIMAX Jr. A/C Leak Detection Kit was shipped to each current dealer as a required
special tool. Additional kits and replacement capsules may be ordered through the Honda Tool and
Equipment Program. On the iN, click on Service, Service Bay, Tool and Equipment Program,
Online Catalog tab, and Air Conditioning Equipment, or call.*
NOTICE
^ Do not use leak-trace dye in any Honda hybrid vehicle equipped with a dual-scroll compressor
This can increase the chance of electric shock. The compressor is easily identified by the orange
high-voltage cable that is connected to the compressor body.
^ Only Tracer-Stick single-dose fluorescent dye capsules from Tracer Products (Tracerline(R)) are
approved for use in Honda vehicles. Other dyes contain solvents that may contaminate the
system's refrigerant oil, leading to component failure.
^ Adding excessive amounts of dye can lead to compressor damage and failure.
^ Check for a label in the engine compartment indicating that fluorescent leak-detection dye has
been added to the system.
^ Dye may have been added even though no label is present. To confirm this:
- Put on the fluorescence-enhancing glasses, and remove the low-side service port sealing cap.
- Direct the ultraviolet lamp into the valve stem area. If dye has been previously added, the
lubricant traces will have a bright yellow fluorescent glow. You may need to press the port's valve
stem briefly to release some lubricant and dye from the system.
NOTE:
Air and moisture must be evacuated from the universal connect set if it is being used for the first
time, or if it has been stored with the control valve open. If the air and moisture have been
evacuated, go to step 3; otherwise do the following:
(a) Attach the empty dye capsule (provided in the dye kit) to the control valve fitting.
(b) Attach the service valve fitting (provided in the kit) to the empty dye capsule.
(c) Attach the low-side hose of the A/C recovery and charging station, and open the quick coupler's
hand-wheel valve. Then open the control valve (black knob) on the universal connect set.
(d) Following the manufacturer's instructions for your recovery and charging station, evacuate the
universal connect set for approximately 3 minutes.
(e) When evacuation is complete, be sure the set's control valve is closed (finger tight), and
disconnect the NC recovery and charging station.
(f) Remove the service valve fitting and the empty dye capsule from the set, and store them for
future use.
NOTE:
^ Check the refrigerant charge level. There must be enough refrigerant in the system to operate the
A/C compressor and to circulate refrigerant oil.
^ If the refrigerant charge is too low, recover the remaining amount and recharge the system before
adding any dye.
(g) Start the vehicle and operate the A/C system. Follow your A/C refrigerant recovery and
charging station's operating instructions for low-side charging to install the dye.
* NOTE:
Only 0.05 lb (0.02 kg) of refrigerant is needed to push the dye into the A/C system.*
(h) Once the refrigerant charge is programmed, open the control valve on the set to allow the dye
to enter the system.
(i) After the dye capsule clears, allow the low-side of the A/C system to reach its lowest operating
pressure, then quickly close both the service equipment's low-side coupler valve and the control
valve on the set.
(j) Remove the set from the vehicle by releasing its quick coupler. Remove the empty dye capsule
from the service valve fitting. Return the hose, control valve, and service-valve fitting to the storage
case.
* NOTE:
Store the hose with the control valve closed. This will retain a small amount of refrigerant in the
hose so it does not have to be evacuated the next time you use it.*
(k) Fill out an identification label (provided in the kit), and attach it to a location near the A/C charge
label.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fluids > Refrigerant > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
A/C - Refrigerant Leak Detection > Page 1338
3. Connect the universal connect set and the Tracer- Stick dye capsule:
(a) Be sure the quick coupler and control valves on the set are closed.
(b) Remove the low-side service port sealing cap, and connect the set to the low-side service port
using the quick coupler.
(c) Hold a new dye capsule so that the embossed arrow is pointing up. Remove the black end cap,
and carefully attach the capsule to the control valve fitting.
NOTE:
The capsule must be held with the embossed arrow pointing up or the dye will leak out of the
capsule.
(d) Turn the capsule so the embossed arrow is pointing down. Remove the orange end cap, and
carefully attach the service valve fitting provided in the kit (finger tight).
NOTE:
The capsule must be held with the embossed arrow pointing down or the dye will leak out.
NOTE:
* ^ If you have recovered refrigerant to weigh it as part of your diagnostics, or if there is a low
charge, it is more efficient to recharge the system using normal procedures before installing the
universal connect set. Dye can then be added using approximately 0.05 lb (0.02 kg) of refrigerant.*
^ You do not need to connect the service equipment's high-side hose to the vehicle to install the
dye. If the high-side hose is connected, make sure its coupler valve is closed before proceeding.
^ Do not use the A/C recovery and charging station to recover or evacuate the A/C system when a
full dye capsule is attached. The dye will be drawn into the service equipment instead of being
added to the vehicle's A/C system.
(a) Run the A/C system for at least 15 minutes to circulate the dye through the system. Large leaks
will be seen immediately as a fluorescent yellow glow. Smaller leaks may require at least 24 hours
of vehicle operation before they become visible. Operate the A/C system as much as possible
during this time to keep the dye circulating.
(b) Stop the vehicle's engine and inspect the system for leaks using the ultraviolet (UV) lamp and
fluorescence-enhancing glasses from the kit.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fluids > Refrigerant > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
A/C - Refrigerant Leak Detection > Page 1339
Low ambient light conditions (a dark work area) will aid in locating the leak.
NOTE:
Not all UV lamps work well with all types of fluorescent dye. Use only the lamp provided in the kit to
inspect for leaks.
^ fittings
^ hose-to-line couplings
^ refrigerant controls
^ service ports
(d) Check for evaporator leaks by illuminating the evaporator drain tube area with the UV lamp and
glasses.
(e) After repairing a leak, remove any fluorescent residue using the GLO-AWAY dye cleaner from
the kit and hot water (follow the instructions on the bottle).
Disclaimer
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fluids > Refrigerant > Component Information > Specifications > Capacity
Specifications
Refrigerant: Capacity Specifications
Refrigerant Capacity:
NOTE: ^
Do not reuse the drained fluid. Use only clean Honda DOT 3 Brake Fluid from an unopened
container. Using a non-Honda brake fluid can cause corrosion and shorten the life of the system.
^ Do not mix different brands of brake fluid; they may not be compatible.
^ Make sure no dirt or other foreign matter is allowed to contaminate the brake fluid.
^ Do not spill brake fluid on the vehicle, it may damage the paint; if brake fluid does contact the
paint, wash it off immediately with water.
^ The reservoir connected to the master cylinder must be at the MAX (upper) level mark at the start
of the bleeding procedure and checked after bleeding each brake system. Add fluid as required.
1. Make sure the brake fluid level in the reservoir (A) is at the MAX (upper) level line (B).
2. Have someone slowly pump the brake pedal several times, then apply steady pressure. 3. Start
the bleeding at the driver's side of the front brake system.
4. Attach a length of clear drain tube (A) to the bleed screw (B), then, loosen the bleed screw to
allow air to escape from the system. Then tighten the
General Precautions
Please read the following precautions carefully before performing the airbag system service. If the
instructions described are not properly followed, the airbags could accidentally deploy and cause
damage or injuries.
- Except when performing electrical inspections, always turn the ignition switch OFF, disconnect
the negative cable from the battery, then wait for 3 minutes before starting work.
NOTE: The SRS memory is not cleared even if the ignition switch is turned OFF or the battery
cables are disconnected from the battery.
- Use replacement parts which are manufactured to the same standards and quality as the original
parts. Do not install used SRS parts. Use only new parts when making SRS repairs.
- Carefully inspect any SRS part before you install it. Do not install any part that shows signs of
being dropped or improperly handled, such as dents, cracks or deformation.
- Before disconnecting the SRS unit connectors, always disconnect the appropriate SRS parts
connectors.
- Use only a digital multimeter to check the system. If it is not a Honda multimeter, make sure its
output is 10 mA (0.01 A) or less when switched to the lowest value in the ohmmeter range. A tester
with a higher output could cause accidental deployment and possible injury.
- The original audio and navigation system has a coded theft protection circuit. Make sure you have
the anti-theft codes for the audio system or the navigation system (if equipped), then write down
the audio presets before disconnecting the negative cable from the battery.
- Before returning the vehicle to the customer, enter the anti-theft codes for the audio system or the
navigation system (if equipped), then enter the audio presets; set the clock.
Steering-related Precautions
- Misalignment of the cable reel could cause an open in the wiring, making the SRS system, remote
steering wheel controls, and the horn inoperative. Center the cable reel whenever you do the
following. -
- If the cable reel shows any signs of damage, replace it with a new one. For example, if it does not
rotate smoothly, replace the cable reel.
Do not disassemble an airbag. It has no serviceable parts. Once an airbag has been deployed, it
cannot be repaired or reused.
For temporary storage of an airbag during service, observe the following precautions.
- Store the removed airbag with the pad surface up. Never put anything on the airbag.
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- To prevent damage to the airbag, keep it away from any oil, grease, detergent, or water.
- Store the removed airbag on a secure, flat surface away from any high heat source (exceeding
200 °F/93 °C)
- Do not position yourself in front of the airbag during removal, inspection, or replacement.
- The side curtain airbag inflator assembly is a long, jointed part containing an inflator (A), a flexible
bag (B), and brackets (C). When removing or installing the side curtain airbag assembly, never do
the following items: -
- Turn the ignition switch OFF, disconnect the negative cable from the battery then wait for 3
minutes before starting installation or replacement of the SRS unit, or disconnecting the connectors
from the SRS unit.
- Be careful not to bump or impact the SRS unit, front impact sensors, side impact sensors, or rear
safing sensor whenever the ignition switch is ON (II), or for at least 3 minutes after the ignition
switch is turned OFF.
- During installation or replacement, be careful not to bump (by impact wrench, hammer, etc.) the
area around the SRS unit, front impact sensors, the side impact sensors, or rear safing sensor. The
airbags could accidentally deploy and cause damage or injury.
- After a collision where a front airbag, side airbag or a seat belt tensioner, seat belt buckle
tensioner deployed, go to Component Replacement/Inspection After Deployment. See: Restraint
Systems/Air Bag Systems/Service and Repair After a collision where the airbags did not deploy,
inspect for any damage or any deformation on the SRS unit, front impact sensors, side impact
sensors, or rear safing sensor. If there is any damage, replace the SRS unit and/or the sensors.
- Do not disassemble the SRS unit, front impact sensors, side impact sensors, driver's seat position
sensor, front passenger's weight sensors, or rear safing sensor.
- Be sure the SRS unit, front impact sensors, side impact sensors, and rear safing sensor are
installed securely with the mounting bolts torqued to 9.8 N.m (1.0 kgf.m, 7.2 lbf.ft). Whenever you
remove or replace the SRS unit, safing sensor, or all impact sensors, always install the
components with new bolts.
- Do not spill water or oil on the SRS unit or the side impact sensors.
Wiring Precautions
Some of the SRS wiring can be identified by special yellow outer covering, and the SRS
connectors can be identified by their yellow color. Observe the instructions.
- Never attempt to modify, splice, or repair SRS wiring. If there is an open or damage in SRS
wiring, replace the harness.
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- Be sure to install the harness wires so they do not get pinched or interfere with other parts.
- Make sure all SRS ground locations are clean, and grounds are securely fastened for optimum
metal-to-metal contact. Poor grounds can cause intermittent problems that are difficult to diagnose.
- When using electrical test equipment, insert the probe of the tester into the wire side of the
connector. Do not insert the probe of the tester into the terminal side of the connector, and do not
tamper with the connector.
- Use specified service connectors in troubleshooting. Using improper tools could cause an error in
inspection due to poor metal-to-metal contact.
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Spring-loaded Lock Connector
Disconnecting
To release the lock, pull the spring-loaded sleeve (A) toward the stop (B) while holding the opposite
half of the connector. Then pull the connector halves apart. Be sure to pull on the sleeve and not
on the connector.
Connecting
To reconnect, hold the pawl-side connector, and press on the back of the sleeve-side connector in
the direction shown. As the two connector halves are pressed together, the sleeve (A) is pushed
back by the pawl (B). Do not touch the sleeve.
Disconnecting
To release the lock, pull the spring-loaded sleeve (A) toward the stop (B) while holding the opposite
half of the connector. Then pull the connector halves apart. Be sure to pull on the sleeve and not
on the connector half.
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Connecting
Hold both connector halves, and press them firmly together until the projection (A) of the
sleeve-side connector clicks.
NOTE:
- To prevent damaging of the connector cavity, insert the short canceller straight into the cavity
from the terminal side.
- Before installing the short canceller, wash it with electric contact cleaner, then dry it with
compressed air.
When SRS unit connectors A (28P) or B (28P) are disconnected, a short circuit is created in the
connector by its own function to prevent an airbag deployment. The circuit may need to be open
sometimes when diagnosis is done on the system. Insert the short canceller (070AZ-SAA0100) in
the specified cavities when it is necessary to keep the circuit open for diagnosis.
Terminal numbers are shown from the wire side of the female terminals. Insert the short
canceller(s) into the cavities on the terminal side of the connector.
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Seats with Side Airbags
Seats with side airbags have a "SIDE AIRBAG" label on the seat-back.
- When cleaning, use a damp cloth to clean the seat. Do not soak the seat with liquid, and do not
spray steam on the seat.
- Do not repair a torn or frayed seat-back cover. Replace the seat-back cover.
- After a collision where the side airbag was deployed, replace the side airbag and seat frame with
new parts. If the seat-back cushion is split, it must be replaced.
- Never put aftermarket accessories on the seat (covers, pads, seat heaters, lights, etc.).
Turn the ignition switch OFF disconnect the negative cable from the battery, then wait for 3 minutes
before starting the following procedures.
- Before disconnecting the cable reel 4P connector (1), disconnect the driver's airbag 4P connector
(2).
- Before disconnecting SRS unit connector B from SRS unit, disconnect both seat belt tensioner 4P
connectors and both seat belt buckle tensioner 4P connectors (3, 4, 5, 6).
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1. Turn the ignition switch OFF. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery, then wait for 3
minutes.
Driver's Airbag
2. Remove the access panel (A) from the steering wheel/then disconnect the driver's airbag 4P
connector (B) from the cable reel.
3. Remove the lower glove box, then disconnect the front passenger's airbag 4P connector (A)
from the dashboard wire harness.
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Side Airbag
4. Disconnect both side airbag 2P connectors (A) from the floor wire harness.
5. Remove the headliner. 6. Disconnect both floor wire harness 2P connectors (A) from the side
curtain airbags.
7. Remove the seat belt lower anchor. Disconnect both floor wire harness 4P connectors (A) from
the seat belt tensioners.
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Seat Belt Buckle Tensioner
8. Disconnect both floor wire harness 4P connectors (A) from the seat belt buckle tensioner.
SRS Unit
9. Disconnect both seat belt tensioner connectors and both seat belt buckle tensioner connectors.
Remove the center console. Disconnect SRS unit
connector A (28P) and SRS unit connector B (28P) from the SRS unit.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fuses and Circuit Breakers > Fuse > Component Information > Locations >
Under-Dash Fuse/Relay Box
Fuse: Locations Under-Dash Fuse/Relay Box
Circuit Schematics
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Circuit Schematics
Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show
current flow, from power at the top of the diagram, to ground at the bottom.
Shared Circuits
Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that
connects one circuit to another, for example, is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it
pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or
component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring, check the operation of a
component it serves. If that component works, you know the shared wiring is OK.
Connectors
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All in-line and junction connectors are numbered (C725, C416, etc.). Component connectors are
not numbered but are identified either by the name of the component if the component only has
one connector, or by a capital letter (A, B, C, etc.) if the component has more than one connector.
Below most connector numbers and component names are PHOTO and VIEW numbers. The
PHOTO number refers to a photo at Vehicle Level Locations that shows the connector's location on
the car. The VIEW number refers to an connector view at the Vehicle Level Connector Views that
shows the connector terminals, wire colors, connector cavity numbers, and other details.
The connector cavity numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector as seen
from either of the viewpoints. Except for the DLC (data link connector), disregard any numbers
molded into the connector housing.
Wires
Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the
stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number "2" next to the male
and female wire terminals at C554, for example, means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector
C554.
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the vehicle. Refer to the Power Distribution Diagram Set to get a more detailed
understanding of how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on. Individual circuit
schematics begin with a fuse. So if Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another
circuit share a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good
and power is available to the inoperative circuit.
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share the same
ground point.
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How to Identify Connector Terminals
Connector terminals are numbered according to the cavities they are in. The cavities are numbered
starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side or looking at the
female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the
same. All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not
the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the
connector face.
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The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown above is #6.
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The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice
connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for
all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement
terminal availability.
On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged,
replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If
any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it.
Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the
wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the
terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to
make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a
factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS.
Use the tools from Pin Tool Set. First, check the connector that you are about to repair.
- If it has a secondary terminal lock, go to Connectors With a Secondary Lock. A secondary lock,
found on most connectors on some models, is an additional locking device on the connector
housing as a backup for the primary lock on the terminal.
- If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock.
All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the
secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the
connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities.
EXAMPLE A:
EXAMPLE B:
EXAMPLE C:
EXAMPLE D:
2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW
TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE E:
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1. Remove the secondary locks.
2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW
TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE F:
3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of
connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary
in size and shape.
EXAMPLE A:
EXAMPLE B:
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1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE C:
EXAMPLE D:
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1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE E:
EXAMPLE F:
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1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE G:
1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct
replacement terminal based on the wire size range
NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part
number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available
through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures.
2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool.
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3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the
wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from
the kit.)
NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did,
cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again.
4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the
anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown
in step 3.
6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact.
- If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool
over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the
stops make contact.
- If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully
squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape.
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8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the following NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and
start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the
way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure
10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector.
Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too
short or when access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair.
On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged,
replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If
any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it.
1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from
Pin Tool Set.
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2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal,
then strip about half of the insulation off that piece.
This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal.
NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will
not nick or cut off any strands of wires.
3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and
same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit
onto the stripped end of the original wire.
5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the
pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more
than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at
the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the
harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make
each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail.
7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends
of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue
NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the
stripper.
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8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the
flare begins), and close the crimper handles far
enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click,
squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open.
9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the
wire all the way into the splice connector, and
squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until
the ratchet clicks again.
10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After
crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the
connector.
12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire(s), and shield them with
nonflammable material.
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13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the
gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat
evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete
when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube.
NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun.
Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the
wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size)
splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select
the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in
quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures.
Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the
Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching
connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body.
1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector.
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2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool.
NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal
because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit.
3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal
with a replacement terminal from the appropriate
Five-Step Troubleshooting
Five-Step Troubleshooting
Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint.
Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
problem area.
Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by
tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground (certain
circuits contain a "How the Circuit Works" Diagram set). Also, trace circuits that share wiring with
the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on,
are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step
1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used
only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely
cause.
Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more
possible causes.
Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple
procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to
make tests at points that are easily accessible.
Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe
procedures.
Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire
problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure
no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur.
Test Equipment
Test Equipment
CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
1O-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up
of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to
various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is
voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital
volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is
between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM).
In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low
resistance means good continuity.
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Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a
reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is
affecting the measurement.
To order any test equipment shown, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool
numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin.
Jumper Wire
Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder
connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire
across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse.
To order any test equipment shown, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool
numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin.
Troubleshooting Precautions
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION: -
Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
- Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles.
2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part
Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place.
CAUTION: -
Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
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- Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-mega
ohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that
contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
Troubleshooting Tests
Troubleshooting Tests
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt
ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest
"OHMS" range.
2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you
want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end.
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4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or
no reading (zero), means good continuity.
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem. Circuits must be operating when checking
voltage drop.
1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts
range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage
is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM
voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
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66. Remote Starting System In-line Fuse (Honda Accessory: Canada A/T)
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fuses and Circuit Breakers > Fuse > Component Information > Application and
ID > Under-Dash Fuse/Relay Box
Fuse: Application and ID Under-Dash Fuse/Relay Box
Circuit Schematics
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Circuit Schematics
Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show
current flow, from power at the top of the diagram, to ground at the bottom.
Shared Circuits
Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that
connects one circuit to another, for example, is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it
pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or
component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring, check the operation of a
component it serves. If that component works, you know the shared wiring is OK.
Connectors
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All in-line and junction connectors are numbered (C725, C416, etc.). Component connectors are
not numbered but are identified either by the name of the component if the component only has
one connector, or by a capital letter (A, B, C, etc.) if the component has more than one connector.
Below most connector numbers and component names are PHOTO and VIEW numbers. The
PHOTO number refers to a photo at Vehicle Level Locations that shows the connector's location on
the car. The VIEW number refers to an connector view at the Vehicle Level Connector Views that
shows the connector terminals, wire colors, connector cavity numbers, and other details.
The connector cavity numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector as seen
from either of the viewpoints. Except for the DLC (data link connector), disregard any numbers
molded into the connector housing.
Wires
Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the
stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number "2" next to the male
and female wire terminals at C554, for example, means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector
C554.
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the vehicle. Refer to the Power Distribution Diagram Set to get a more detailed
understanding of how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on. Individual circuit
schematics begin with a fuse. So if Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another
circuit share a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good
and power is available to the inoperative circuit.
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share the same
ground point.
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1439
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How to Identify Connector Terminals
Connector terminals are numbered according to the cavities they are in. The cavities are numbered
starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side or looking at the
female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the
same. All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not
the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the
connector face.
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The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown above is #6.
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The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice
connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for
all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement
terminal availability.
On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged,
replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If
any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it.
Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the
wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the
terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to
make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a
factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS.
Use the tools from Pin Tool Set. First, check the connector that you are about to repair.
- If it has a secondary terminal lock, go to Connectors With a Secondary Lock. A secondary lock,
found on most connectors on some models, is an additional locking device on the connector
housing as a backup for the primary lock on the terminal.
- If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock.
All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the
secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the
connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities.
EXAMPLE A:
EXAMPLE B:
EXAMPLE C:
EXAMPLE D:
2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW
TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE E:
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1. Remove the secondary locks.
2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW
TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE F:
3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of
connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary
in size and shape.
EXAMPLE A:
EXAMPLE B:
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1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE C:
EXAMPLE D:
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1450
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE E:
EXAMPLE F:
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1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE G:
1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct
replacement terminal based on the wire size range
NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part
number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available
through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures.
2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool.
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3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the
wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from
the kit.)
NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did,
cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again.
4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the
anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown
in step 3.
6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact.
- If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool
over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the
stops make contact.
- If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully
squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape.
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8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the following NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and
start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the
way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure
10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector.
Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too
short or when access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair.
On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged,
replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If
any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it.
1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from
Pin Tool Set.
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2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal,
then strip about half of the insulation off that piece.
This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal.
NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will
not nick or cut off any strands of wires.
3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and
same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit
onto the stripped end of the original wire.
5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the
pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more
than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at
the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the
harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make
each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail.
7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends
of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue
NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the
stripper.
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8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the
flare begins), and close the crimper handles far
enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click,
squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open.
9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the
wire all the way into the splice connector, and
squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until
the ratchet clicks again.
10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After
crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the
connector.
12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire(s), and shield them with
nonflammable material.
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13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the
gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat
evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete
when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube.
NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun.
Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the
wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size)
splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select
the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in
quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures.
Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the
Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching
connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body.
1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector.
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2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool.
NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal
because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit.
3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal
with a replacement terminal from the appropriate
Five-Step Troubleshooting
Five-Step Troubleshooting
Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint.
Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
problem area.
Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by
tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground (certain
circuits contain a "How the Circuit Works" Diagram set). Also, trace circuits that share wiring with
the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on,
are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step
1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used
only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely
cause.
Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more
possible causes.
Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple
procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to
make tests at points that are easily accessible.
Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe
procedures.
Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire
problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure
no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur.
Test Equipment
Test Equipment
CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
1O-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up
of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to
various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is
voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital
volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is
between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM).
In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low
resistance means good continuity.
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Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a
reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is
affecting the measurement.
To order any test equipment shown, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool
numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin.
Jumper Wire
Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder
connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire
across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse.
To order any test equipment shown, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool
numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin.
Troubleshooting Precautions
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION: -
Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
- Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles.
2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part
Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place.
CAUTION: -
Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
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- Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-mega
ohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that
contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
Troubleshooting Tests
Troubleshooting Tests
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt
ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest
"OHMS" range.
2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you
want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end.
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4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or
no reading (zero), means good continuity.
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem. Circuits must be operating when checking
voltage drop.
1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts
range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage
is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM
voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
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Removal
1. Make sure you have the anti-theft code for the audio system or the navigation system (if
equipped), then write down the audio presets. 2. Make sure the ignition switch is OFF. 3.
Disconnect the negative battery cable, then disconnect the positive cable, and wait at least 3
minutes. 4. Remove the screws (A) for the alternator and battery cable terminals from the
under-hood fuse/relay box.
5. Remove the bottom cover from the under-hood fuse/relay box. 6. Disconnect the connectors
from the under-hood fuse/relay box. 7. Carefully remove the relays by prying under the base of the
relay.
NOTE: Do not use pliers. Pliers will damage the relays, which could cause the engine to stall or not
start.
Installation
1. Install the relays and connect the connectors to the under-hood fuse/relay box, then install the
under-hood fuse/relay box in the reverse order of
removal.
2. Install the removed parts in the reverse order of removal. 3. Connect the positive cable to the
battery, then connect the negative cable to the battery. 4. Enter the anti-theft code for the audio
system or the navigation system (if equipped), then enter the audio presets. Set the clock (on
vehicles
without navigation).
SRS components are located in this area. Review the SRS component locations and precautions
and procedures before performing repairs or servicing.
Removal
1. Make sure you have the anti-theft code for the audio system or the navigation system (if
equipped), then write down the audio presets. 2. Make sure the ignition switch is OFF. 3.
Disconnect the negative battery cable, then disconnect the positive cable, and wait at least 3
minutes. 4. Remove the driver's dashboard lower cover. 5. Disconnect the connectors from the
fuse side of the under-dash fuse/relay box (A).
6. Remove the mounting bolt, and pull the fuse/relay box away from the body. 7. Disconnect the
connectors from the back side of the under-dash fuse/relay box, then remove the under-dash
fuse/relay box. 8. Carefully remove the relays by prying under the base of the relay.
NOTE: Do not use pliers. Pliers will damage the relays, which could cause the engine to stall or not
start.
Installation
1. Install the relays and connect the connectors to the under-dash fuse/relay box, then install the
under-dash fuse/relay box in the reverse order of
removal.
2. Install the removed parts in the reverse order of removal. 3. Connect the positive cable to the
battery, then connect the negative cable to the battery. 4. Register the immobilizer system with the
HDS.
NOTE: The imoes unit is built into the MICU which is part of the under-dash fuse/relay box.
Because of this construction, the imoes must be registered, or the vehicle will not start.
5. Enter the anti-theft code for the audio system or the navigation system (if equipped), then enter
the audio presets. Set the clock (on vehicles
without navigation).
Removal
1. Make sure you have the anti-theft code for the audio system or the navigation system (if
equipped), then write down the audio presets. 2. Make sure the ignition switch is OFF. 3.
Disconnect the negative battery cable, then disconnect the positive cable, and wait at least 3
minutes. 4. Remove the screws (A) for the alternator and battery cable terminals from the
under-hood fuse/relay box.
5. Remove the bottom cover from the under-hood fuse/relay box. 6. Disconnect the connectors
from the under-hood fuse/relay box. 7. Carefully remove the relays by prying under the base of the
relay.
NOTE: Do not use pliers. Pliers will damage the relays, which could cause the engine to stall or not
start.
Installation
1. Install the relays and connect the connectors to the under-hood fuse/relay box, then install the
under-hood fuse/relay box in the reverse order of
removal.
2. Install the removed parts in the reverse order of removal. 3. Connect the positive cable to the
battery, then connect the negative cable to the battery. 4. Enter the anti-theft code for the audio
system or the navigation system (if equipped), then enter the audio presets. Set the clock (on
vehicles
without navigation).
SRS components are located in this area. Review the SRS component locations and precautions
and procedures before performing repairs or servicing.
Removal
1. Make sure you have the anti-theft code for the audio system or the navigation system (if
equipped), then write down the audio presets. 2. Make sure the ignition switch is OFF. 3.
Disconnect the negative battery cable, then disconnect the positive cable, and wait at least 3
minutes. 4. Remove the driver's dashboard lower cover. 5. Disconnect the connectors from the
fuse side of the under-dash fuse/relay box (A).
6. Remove the mounting bolt, and pull the fuse/relay box away from the body. 7. Disconnect the
connectors from the back side of the under-dash fuse/relay box, then remove the under-dash
fuse/relay box. 8. Carefully remove the relays by prying under the base of the relay.
NOTE: Do not use pliers. Pliers will damage the relays, which could cause the engine to stall or not
start.
Installation
1. Install the relays and connect the connectors to the under-dash fuse/relay box, then install the
under-dash fuse/relay box in the reverse order of
removal.
2. Install the removed parts in the reverse order of removal. 3. Connect the positive cable to the
battery, then connect the negative cable to the battery. 4. Register the immobilizer system with the
HDS.
NOTE: The imoes unit is built into the MICU which is part of the under-dash fuse/relay box.
Because of this construction, the imoes must be registered, or the vehicle will not start.
5. Enter the anti-theft code for the audio system or the navigation system (if equipped), then enter
the audio presets. Set the clock (on vehicles
without navigation).
Low Tire Pressure Indicator: Service and Repair TPMS Indicator Reset
The TPMS (tire pressure monitoring system) has a low tire pressure indicator and a TPMS
indicator. When the TPMS control unit detects low pressure in a tire, or a problem in the system, it
turns on the appropriate indicator.
^ If low tire pressure is detected in one or more tires, the low tire pressure indicator comes on.
^ If low tire pressure and a problem in the system are detected, only the TPMS indicator comes on.
If the system is OK, the TPMS indicator and the low tire pressure indicator should come on when
you turn the ignition switch to ON (II), and then go off 2 seconds later. If they don't, there is a
problem with the system.
If the system detects low pressure in any of the four tires, the low tire pressure indicator comes on,
and the control unit will set one or more of these codes: DTC 11, 13, 15, 17. When the tire pressure
returns to normal, the control unit turns off the indicators and stores the DTC(s). However, if the
control unit detects a problem in the system during an indication of low tire pressure, it turns off the
low tire pressure indicator, stores the DTC(s), and turns on the TPMS indicator(s).
NOTE: Tire pressures increase slightly as the temperature in the tires rises during driving at
highway speeds. Pressures can also increase or decrease slightly with changes in outside air
temperature. A temperature change of about 18°F (10°C) changes tire pressure by about 10 kPa
(0.1 kgf/cm2, 1.5 psi). If the temperature drops, tire pressure could decrease just enough to turn on
the low tire pressure indicator, but later, the tire temperature could increase enough to turn the
indicator off. To resolve a complaint of such intermittent indications, confirm and clear the stored
DTC(s) and check the tire pressures. Then explain to the customer how temperature changes can
affect the system, especially when tire pressures are near the low end of the TPMS normal range -
168 to 220 kPa (1.7 to 2.2 kgf/cm2, 24 to 32 psi).
If a problem is detected in the system, the TPMS indicator comes on and stays on until the system
returns to normal with most DTCs. If DTC 81, 83 or 85 is set, the TPMS indicator goes off only
when the ignition switch is turned to LOCK (0).
When a flat tire is replaced with the spare tire, the TPMS indicator comes on (DTC 32, 34, 36 or
38) because the system is no longer receiving the signal from the tire's transmitter. This is not a
problem with the spare tire.
After rotating the tires or replacing a tire pressure sensor, drive the vehicle for at least 40 seconds
at a speed of 15 mph (24 km/h) or more, and all the sensor IDs are memorized automatically.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Service Reminder Indicators > Maintenance Required Lamp/Indicator >
Component Information > Description and Operation
Maintenance Required Lamp/Indicator: Description and Operation
Maintenance Minder
References:
- For an explanation of Maintenance Minder Codes and what service should be performed, refer to
Indicator Based Service. See: Service Intervals/Condition/Indicator Based Maintenance
Services/Indicator Based Service
- For information on how to reset the display, refer to the article under Resetting the Maintenance
Minder. See: Service and Repair
The vehicle displays engine oil life and maintenance service items on the information display to
show when to perform an engine oil replacement and other indicated maintenance service.
Based on the engine operating conditions and accumulated engine revolutions, the onboard
computer calculates the remaining engine oil life and displays it as a percentage.
To see the current engine oil life, turn the ignition switch to the ON (II) position, then push and
release the SEL/RESET button repeatedly until the engine oil life indicator appears.
If the remaining engine oil life is 15 to 6 percent, the engine oil life indicator will display every time
the ignition switch is turned to the ON (II) position. The maintenance minder indicator will also
come on, and the maintenance item code(s) for other scheduled maintenance items needing
service will be displayed next to the engine oil life indicator.
The maintenance item code or codes indicate the main and sub items required at the time of the oil
change.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Service Reminder Indicators > Maintenance Required Lamp/Indicator >
Component Information > Description and Operation > Page 1528
When the remaining engine oil life is 5 to 1 percent, you will see a "SERVICE" message along with
the maintenance item code(s), every time you turn the ignition switch to the ON (II) position.
The maintenance item code or codes indicate the main and sub items required at the time of the oil
change. For an explanation of Maintenance Minder Codes and what service should be performed,
refer to Indicator Based Service. See: Service Intervals/Condition/Indicator Based Maintenance
Services/Indicator Based Service
You can switch the display to the odometer, the trip meter, and the outside temperature indicator (if
equipped) by pushing the SEL/RESET button on the dashboard repeatedly.
When the engine oil life is 15 to 1 percent, the maintenance minder indicator (Wrench icon) comes
on every time you turn the ignition switch to the ON position, then it goes out if you switch the
information display.
When you see this message, the indicated maintenance should be performed as soon as possible.
When the remaining engine oil life is 0 percent, the engine oil life indicator will blink. The display
comes on every time you turn the ignition switch to the ON (II) position. The maintenance minder
indicator (Wrench icon) also comes on and remains on in the instrument panel. When you see this
message, the indicated maintenance should be immediately performed.
If you do not perform the indicated maintenance, negative mileage is displayed and begins to blink
after the vehicle has been driven 10 miles (10 km) or more.
Negative mileage means your vehicle has passed the maintenance required point. Have the
indicated maintenance done immediately.
You can change the information display from the engine oil life display to the odometer, the trip
meter, or the outside temperature (if equipped) every time you press and release the SEL/RESET
button.
When the engine oil life is 0 percent or negative mileage, the maintenance minder indicator
(Wrench icon) remains on even if you change the information display.
Immediately have the service performed, and make sure to reset the display. Refer to Resetting the
Maintenance Minder. See: Service and Repair
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Service Reminder Indicators > Maintenance Required Lamp/Indicator >
Component Information > Description and Operation > Page 1529
All maintenance items displayed in the information display are in code. For an explanation of
Maintenance Minder Codes and what service should be performed, refer to Indicator Based
Service. See: Service Intervals/Condition/Indicator Based Maintenance Services/Indicator Based
Service
If you complete the required service but do not reset the display, or reset the display without doing
the service, the system will not show the proper maintenance intervals. This can lead to serious
mechanical problems because there will no longer be an accurate record of when maintenance is
needed.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Service Reminder Indicators > Maintenance Required Lamp/Indicator >
Component Information > Description and Operation > Page 1530
Reference:
- For information regarding interpreting the maintenance minder display refer to Maintenance
Required Lamp/Indicator / Description and Operation / "Reading the Maintenance Minder".
Reset the display after completing the required maintenance service. You will see "OIL LIFE 100%"
on the information display the next time you turn the ignition switch to the ON (II) position.
2. Press the SEL/RESET knob (or button if equipped) repeatedly until the engine oil life is
displayed.
3. Press the SEL/RESET button for about 10 seconds. The engine oil life and the maintenance
item code(s) will blink.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Service Reminder Indicators > Maintenance Required Lamp/Indicator >
Component Information > Description and Operation > Page 1531
4. Press the SEL/RESET button for more than 5 seconds. The maintenance item code(s) will
disappear, and the engine oil life will reset to "100."
If you complete the required service but do not reset the display, or reset the display without doing
the service, the system will not show the proper maintenance intervals. This can lead to serious
mechanical problems because there will no longer be an accurate record of when maintenance is
needed.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Service Reminder Indicators > Malfunction Indicator Lamp > Component
Information > Description and Operation
Malfunction Indicator Lamp: Description and Operation
The vehicle has certain "readiness codes" that are part of the on-board diagnostics for the
emissions systems. If the vehicle's battery has been disconnected or gone dead, if the DTCs have
been cleared, or if the PCM has been reset, these codes are reset. In some states, part of the
emissions testing is to make sure these codes are set to complete. If all of them are not set to
complete, the vehicle may fail the test, or the test cannot be finished.
To check if the readiness codes are set to complete, turn the ignition switch ON (II), but do not start
the engine. The MIL will come on for 15-20 seconds. If it then goes off, the readiness codes are
complete'. If it flashes five times, one or more readiness codes are not complete. To set each code,
drive the vehicle or run the engine as described in the procedures.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Service Reminder Indicators > Malfunction Indicator Lamp > Component
Information > Description and Operation > Page 1535
YES - Go to step 3.
NO - Substitute a known-good gauge control module (tach), and recheck. If the MIL circuit is OK,
replace the original gauge control module (tach).
3. Connect the HDS to the DLC. 4. Check the SCS in the DATA LIST with the HDS.
Is a short indicated?
YES - Go to step 5.
NO - Update the ECM/PCM if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a known-good
ECM/PCM, then recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away with a known-good ECM/PCM,
replace the original ECM/PCM.
5. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 6. Disconnect ECM/PCM connector A (44P), then disconnect the
HDS. 7. Check for continuity between ECM/PCM connector terminal A31 and body ground.
Is there continuity?
YES - Repair short in the wire between the ECM/PCM (A31) and the SRS unit, the DLC.
NO - Update the ECM/PCM if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a known-good
ECM/PCM, then recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away with a known-good ECM/PCM,
replace the original ECM/PCM.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Vehicle Lifting > Component Information > Service and
Repair
Vehicle Lifting: Service and Repair
NOTE: If you are going to remove heavy components such as the suspension or the fuel tank from
the rear of the vehicle, first support the front of the vehicle with tall safety stands. When substantial
weight is removed from the rear of the vehicle, the center of gravity can change, causing the
vehicle to tip forward on the lift.
Vehicle Lift
1. Position the lift blocks (A) under the vehicle's front support points (B) and rear support points (C).
2. Raise the lift a few inches, and rock the vehicle gently to be sure it is firmly supported. 3. Raise
the lift to its full height, and inspect the vehicle support points for solid contact with the lift blocks.
Safety Stands
To support the vehicle on safety stands, use the same support points (B and C) as for a vehicle lift.
Always use safety stands when working on or under any vehicle that is supported only by a jack.
Floor Jack
1. When lifting the front of the vehicle, set the parking brake. When lifting the rear of the vehicle,
put the shift lever in reverse for manual
2. Block the wheels that are not being lifted. 3. Position the floor jack under the front jacking
bracket (A) or the rear jacking bracket (B). Center the jacking bracket on the jack lift platform (C),
and jack up the vehicle high enough to fit the safety stands under it.
4. Position the safety stands under the support points, and adjust them so the vehicle is level. 5.
Lower the vehicle onto the stands.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Relays and Modules - Wheels and Tires > Tire Pressure
Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tire Monitor System - VT55 TPMS Update Information
Tire Pressure Module: Technical Service Bulletins Tire Monitor System - VT55 TPMS Update
Information
09-070
INTRODUCTION
The software for the VT55 TPMS tool is updated periodically to add new vehicles, fix software
bugs, and enhance the tool's function. You can use the ATEQ update wizard to download software
and firmware to your VT55 using a PC and the Internet. It is extremely important to use the latest
VT55 software to ensure that the current TPMS initialization and diagnostic procedures are used.
American Honda is also introducing a new policy to ensure that VT55 tools are updated promptly.
The VT55 software must now be updated within 3 days of receiving notification of an available
update from an iN message or other Honda communication. If an out-of-date version is used, any
TPMS replacements may not be covered under warranty.
^ VT55 Tool Kit (includes VT55, AC adapter, USB cable and CD): P/N AEQVT55
P/N AEQVT555
^ Internet access
To order the VT55, or the USB connector, go to the Honda Tool and Equipment catalog on the iN
(select Service > Service Bay > Tool and Equipment > Online Catalog), or call.
SOFTWARE VERSION
To check the VT55 version software, turn on the unit and the version number appears for about 2
seconds during the startup process. If you miss it, turn the VT55 off by pressing and holding the
power switch for about 2 seconds, then turn it back on.
1. Go online to
update.ateq.com/software/webvt/update_webvt.zip
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Relays and Modules - Wheels and Tires > Tire Pressure
Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tire Monitor System - VT55 TPMS Update Information >
Page 1545
2. Depending on your Internet connection, the Connect to update screen may appear. If so, enter
the login and password.
Login: webvt
Password: update
3. The File Download screen appears. Select Save. The Zip file will be saved to your computer.
4. After the Zip file finishes downloading, open the update - webvt.zip file by double-clicking on it.
5. The WinZip - update - webvt.zip screen appears. Double-click the WebVT55_V4_2.exe file.
NOTE:
If you see a Compressed (Zipped) Folders Error, contact your IT person because there is a
permissions issue with your firewall.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Relays and Modules - Wheels and Tires > Tire Pressure
Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tire Monitor System - VT55 TPMS Update Information >
Page 1546
6. The WinZip Caution screen appears. Select Yes.
7. If you have a previous version of the WebVT software installed on your computer, the
InstallShield Wizard gives you the option to modify, repair, or
If you have a previous software version, select Modify, then Next. After the software is modified
select Finish.
11. The InstallShield Wizard will prompt you when WebVT is installed on your computer. Select
Finish.
12. The serial emulation port driver installer screen appears. Connect your VT55, and turn it on.
Select Next.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Relays and Modules - Wheels and Tires > Tire Pressure
Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tire Monitor System - VT55 TPMS Update Information >
Page 1548
13. After a few seconds, the serial emulation port driver installer prompts you when it is finished.
Select Finish.
14. If you have any problems installing the VT55 update software, call ATEQ at 734-838-3100, and
select option 2 for service.
NOTE:
^ Some screens may list the tool as VT5O or VT55. This is OK; it will not affect updating the tool.
^ If at any time during the update an error message appears, or the VT55 is not detected, see the
Standard User Guide that is on the ATEQ CD that came with the tool, or call ATEQ at
734-838-3100, and select option 2 for service.
1. Go to your desktop, and double-click the WebVT icon to launch the VT55 update software.
2. Connect the VT55 to your PC with the USB cable, then turn it on. The serial number and current
software version automatically display.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Relays and Modules - Wheels and Tires > Tire Pressure
Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tire Monitor System - VT55 TPMS Update Information >
Page 1549
3. The Found New Hardware Wizard may appear. If it does, select Yes, now and every time I
connect a device, then select Next.
4. The Found New Hardware Wizard prompts you to install the ATEQ R5232 Emulation software.
Select Install the software automatically
5. The Found New Hardware Wizard will prompt you when the software is installed. Select Finish.
6. Select UPDATE DEVICE. Depending on your Internet connection, you may be prompted for a
login and password. If you know your login and
password, enter them, otherwise, contact your administrator or internet service provider for the
login and password.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Relays and Modules - Wheels and Tires > Tire Pressure
Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tire Monitor System - VT55 TPMS Update Information >
Page 1550
7. If a new software version is available, you'll see a message asking if you want to update the
VT55. Select Yes.
NOTE:
Do not disconnect the VT55 during the update procedure, as you may permanently damage the
tool.
If no new software version is available, you'll see a message asking if you want to overwrite the
existing software. Select No.
8. The Dealer Identification screen appears. Enter your 6-digit dealer number, then select Apply.
9. If the dealer number is valid, your dealership's name and address appears in the dealer
information box. Select NEXT.
If the dealership number is not valid, call the American Honda Special Tools Hotline for assistance.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Relays and Modules - Wheels and Tires > Tire Pressure
Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tire Monitor System - VT55 TPMS Update Information >
Page 1551
10. The VT55 begins updating. When the VT55 is finished updating, you'll see a message stating
the update is done. Disconnect the VT55, then select
OK.
11. Let the VT55 turn off (for about 1 minute). Turn it on, and confirm that the software is updated
to the software version listed under SOFTWARE
VERSION.
12. If you have more than one VT55, repeat the update procedure for each unit.
13. Once all VT55s are updated, select EXIT, and store the USB cable in a safe location for future
updates.
Disclaimer
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Relays and Modules - Wheels and Tires > Tire Pressure
Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 1552
NOTE: Make sure the TPMS control unit mounting bracket is not bent or twisted as this may affect
its communication with the tire pressure sensors.
1. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). 2. Remove the driver's dashboard undercover. 3.
Disconnect the TPMS control unit connector (A).
4. Remove the TPMS control unit (B) from the bracket (C).
NOTE: While separating the TPMS control unit from the bracket, add in a flat-tipped screwdriver
between the TPMS control unit and the bracket at shown aria (D) to release the hook (E), and slide
out the TPMS control unit from the bracket.
5. Replace the bracket if necessary. 6. Install the TPMS control unit in the reverse order of
removal.
NOTE: Make sure the TPMS control unit is properly installed. You will hear a click when the TPMS
control unit is securely mounted on the bracket.
7. Connect the HDS, and memorize the pressure sensor IDs using the TPMS sensor initializer tool.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Relays and Modules - Wheels and Tires > Tire Pressure
Monitor Receiver / Transponder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tire Monitor System - Usage of
TPMS Sensor Tools
Tire Pressure Monitor Receiver / Transponder: Technical Service Bulletins Tire Monitor System -
Usage of TPMS Sensor Tools
06-072
(Supersedes 06-072, dated January 5, 2007, to update the information marked by the black bars
and asterisks)
*VEHICLES AFFECTED
INTRODUCTION
Beginning with some 2007 models, Honda is using a second type of TPMS (tire pressure
monitoring system) that does not use initiators like the 2006 and earlier
TPMS.
^ Are mounted on the inside of the rim, connected to the valve stem.
^ Use a wireless transmission to send tire pressure and temperature information to the TPMS unit.
^ Use non-replaceable batteries. To save battery life, the sensors turn on only when the vehicle is
being used.
*The first type of TPMS (all vehicles through 2006) uses initiators mounted above each wheel.
When you turn the ignition switch to ON (II), the initiators send out a low frequency signal to turn on
the TPMS sensors. The initiator, in conjunction with the TPMS control unit, determines the tire
location. For example, if the right front tire is low on air, the customer sees the low tire pressure
indicator and an indiction that the right front tire is low on pressure. The initiator-type TPMS, or
location-type TPMS (in the HDS), is used on the 2005-08 Pilot, the 2006-08 Ridgeline, and the
2005-08 Odyssey Touring models.*
The new TPMS does not use initiators. The TPMS sensors have a built-in acceleration sensor that
turns on the TPMS sensors when the vehicle speed reaches about 25 mph. Without an initiator, the
TPMS control unit cannot determine tire location. For example, if the right front tire is low on air, the
customer sees only the low pressure indicator and must check all four tires to find the problem tire.
During diagnosis, the TPMS control unit provides a code for each tire.
NOTE:
^ During diagnosis, the TPMS control unit gives a tire number, but you need to do the sensor
position check to find the location of the tire number.
^ Use with HDS software version 2.011.010 or later. The initiator-less TPMS, or no location-type
TPMS, is used on vehicles affected by this bulletin.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Relays and Modules - Wheels and Tires > Tire Pressure
Monitor Receiver / Transponder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tire Monitor System - Usage of
TPMS Sensor Tools > Page 1561
A TPMS sensor tool is used for troubleshooting and replacing the TPMS sensors. See TOOL
DESCRIPTION for more information.
WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION
None.
TOOL INFORMATION
TOOL DESCRIPTION
The TPMS sensor tool is a wireless tool that is used with the HDS for troubleshooting (sensor
position check) and for replacing TPMS sensors or the control unit (sensor ID learning).
General use:
^ Always make sure the TPMS sensor tool is set to low power unless otherwise instructed.
*^ Make sure there are no vehicles or other wheels with TPMS sensors within 10 feet of the vehicle
you are working on.
^ Make sure the batteries are in good condition and secure in the case. Refer to ServiceNews
article A07050D, Keep Those TPMS Sensor Tool Batteries From Popping Loose, for more
information.*
^ Turn on the TPMS sensor tool by following the HDS instructions. There are two different
wavelengths used, and there are two ways to turn on the TPMS sensor tool. If the TPMS sensor
tool is not turned on correctly, you won't be able to troubleshoot the vehicle or do the sensor ID
learning procedure.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Relays and Modules - Wheels and Tires > Tire Pressure
Monitor Receiver / Transponder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tire Monitor System - Usage of
TPMS Sensor Tools > Page 1562
^ Turn off the TPMS sensor tool by pressing and holding the small button as shown until the green
light in the button turns off. The tool will also turn off after 5 minutes of inactivity.
NOTE:
Offset your finger, or use just your nail to push the buttons, so you can see the light in the buttons.
Two AC adapters are included in the TPMS sensor tool kit. The 900 AC adapter is for the battery
charger. Use the straight AC adapter to power the TPMS sensor tool when charged batteries are
not available.
NOTE:
^ The AC adapter does not charge the batteries in the TPMS sensor tool.
^ Remove the batteries from the TPMS sensor tool when using the AC adapter.
There are two ways to charge the batteries. The method to use depends on the batteries' state of
charge. For brand new or fully discharged batteries:
1. Connect the AC adapter to the charger (make sure you use the AC adapter with the 90° bend).
2. Insert the batteries into the charger. Make sure you note the polarity (direction) of the batteries.
3. Plug the charger into a power outlet. The LEDs turn red, and quick charging begins.
NOTE:
^ If the LEDs do not come on, check that the batteries are properly installed. If the LEDs still do not
come on, replace the batteries.
^ If you press the red button while the batteries are charging, the battery discharge mode begins.
Press the red button again within 30 seconds, and the charger switches back to its quick charge
mode.
^ When the LEDs turn green, the batteries are charged, and the battery charger automatically
switches to trickle charge mode.
^ Remove the batteries from the charger when it is not plugged in.
For charging batteries when you don't know the state of charge:
1. Connect the AC adapter to the charger (make sure you use the AC adapter with the 90° bend).
2. Insert the batteries into the charger. Make sure you note the polarity (direction) of the batteries.
4. Press the red button once to start the discharge mode. The LEDs blink red.
NOTE:
^ If the LEDs do not come on, check that the batteries are properly installed. If the LEDs still do not
come on, replace the batteries.
^ If you press the red button a second time within 30 seconds, the battery quick charge mode
begins.
^ Once the batteries are discharged, the LEDs turn solid red and the battery quick charge mode
begins.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Relays and Modules - Wheels and Tires > Tire Pressure
Monitor Receiver / Transponder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tire Monitor System - Usage of
TPMS Sensor Tools > Page 1563
^ When the LEDs turn green, the batteries are charged, and the battery charger automatically
switches to trickle charge mode.
^ Remove the batteries from the charger when it is not plugged in.
When the TPMS sets a DTC, it refers to Tire 1, Tire 2, Tire 3, or Tire 4. In the service manual, the
tire number is the sensor number. For example, Tire 2 is sensor 2.
However, the tire number is not the tire position. To diagnose or repair the vehicle, do the sensor
position check to find the location of the problem tire (or sensor) on the vehicle.
7. In the System Selection Menu, select TPMS, then select the Enter button.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Relays and Modules - Wheels and Tires > Tire Pressure
Monitor Receiver / Transponder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tire Monitor System - Usage of
TPMS Sensor Tools > Page 1565
8. In the Mode menu, select Functional Tests, then select the Enter button.
9. In the Functional Test menu, select Sensor Position Check, then select the Enter button.
*10. On the Sensor Position Check screen, turn on the TPMS sensor tool by following the
on-screen instructions. (The Accord is shown on the sample
screen.)*
NOTE:
Each model is different. Turning on the TPMS sensor tool incorrectly could lead to incorrect
diagnosis and repair.
Once the TPMS sensor tool is turned on, select the YES button.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Relays and Modules - Wheels and Tires > Tire Pressure
Monitor Receiver / Transponder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tire Monitor System - Usage of
TPMS Sensor Tools > Page 1566
11. Follow the instructions on the Sensor Position Check screen. When prompted, go to the left
front wheel, then select the Enter button.
12. Wait about 5 seconds, and the Sensor Position Check screen changes to an operation
progress bar.
* NOTE:
^ Wait for the timer to start. When the blue bar appears, use the TPMS sensor tool.*
^ If the sensor IDs appear without the TPMS sensor tool button being pushed, a TPMS sensor is
transmitting. Select the Exit button, wait 5 minutes for the sensor to go to sleep, then follow the
on-screen prompts.
13. Point and hold the TPMS sensor tool 10 to 20 inches from the left front wheel valve stem. Press
and hold the large transmit button for up to 1 minute. The button should flash red. The TPMS
sensor tool sends a signal to the TPMS sensor to turn on and broadcast the TPMS sensor ID to the
TPMS control unit.
14. Watch for the TPMS sensor IDs to appear on the HDS screen. The TPMS control unit must
read the sensor ID five times to complete the learning
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Monitor Receiver / Transponder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tire Monitor System - Usage of
TPMS Sensor Tools > Page 1567
procedure.
NOTE:
15. The TPMS sensor ID learning changes to the following screen once the procedure is complete.
Select the Enter button.
NOTE:
If the sensor does not respond (no sensor IDs are displayed), rotate the tire one-quarter turn and
try again. If the TPMS sensor does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, switch the tire to a
known-good location and try again. If the TPMS sensor still does not respond after one full rotation
of the tire, replace the TPMS sensor.
16. When prompted, go to the left rear wheel, then select the Enter button.
17. The TPMS sensor ID learning procedure goes through the same steps as the left front wheel
(see steps 12 thru 15). When the timer starts (the blue bar appears), point and hold the TPMS
sensor tool 10 to 20 inches from the left rear wheel valve stem. Press and hold the large transmit
button for up to 1 minute. The button should flash red. The TPMS sensor tool sends a signal to the
TPMS sensor to turn on and broadcast the TPMS sensor
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Monitor Receiver / Transponder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tire Monitor System - Usage of
TPMS Sensor Tools > Page 1568
ID to the TPMS control unit.
NOTE:
^ If the sensor IDs appear without the TPMS sensor tool button being pushed, a TPMS sensor is
transmitting. Select the Exit button, wait 5 minutes for the sensors to go to sleep, then follow the
on-screen prompts.
^ If the sensor does not respond (no sensor IDs are displayed), rotate the tire one-quarter turn and
try again. If the TPMS sensor does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, switch the tire to a
known-good location and try again. If the TPMS sensor still does not respond after one full rotation
of the tire, replace the TPMS sensor.
18. When prompted, go to the right rear wheel, then select the Enter button.
19. The TPMS sensor ID learning procedure goes through the same steps as the left front wheel
(see steps 12 thru 15). When the timer starts (the blue bar appears), point and hold the TPMS
sensor tool 10 to 20 inches from the right rear wheel valve stem. Press and hold the large transmit
button for up to 1 minute. The button should flash red. The TPMS sensor tool sends a signal to the
TPMS sensor to turn on and broadcast the TPMS sensor ID to the TPMS control unit.
NOTE:
^ If the sensor IDs appear without the TPMS sensor tool button being pushed, a TPMS sensor is
transmitting. Select the Exit button, wait 5 minutes for the sensors to go to sleep, then follow the
on-screen prompts.
^ If the sensor does not respond (no sensor IDs are displayed), rotate the tire one-quarter turn and
try again. If the TPMS sensor does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, switch the tire to a
known-good location and try again. If the TPMS sensor still does not respond after one full rotation
of the tire, replace the TPMS sensor.
20. When prompted, go to the right front wheel, then select the Enter button.
21. The TPMS sensor ID learning procedure goes through the same steps as the left front wheel
(see steps 12 thru 15). When the timer starts (the blue bar appears), point and hold the TPMS
sensor tool 10 to 20 inches from the right front wheel valve stem. Press and hold the large transmit
button for up to 1 minute. The button should flash red. The TPMS sensor tool sends a signal to the
TPMS sensor to turn on and broadcast the TPMS
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Monitor Receiver / Transponder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tire Monitor System - Usage of
TPMS Sensor Tools > Page 1569
NOTE:
^ If the sensor IDs appear without the TPMS sensor tool button being pushed, a TPMS sensor is
transmitting. Select the Exit button, wait 5 minutes for the sensors to go to sleep, then follow the
on-screen prompts.
^ If the sensor does not respond (no sensor IDs are displayed), rotate the tire one-quarter turn and
try again. If the TPMS sensor does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, switch the tire to a
known-good location and try again. If the TPMS sensor still does not respond after one full rotation
of the tire, replace the TPMS sensor.
22. The sensor position check is complete. Using the DTC(s) and the information on the Sensor
Position Check screen, locate the problem tire.
If the vehicle has DTC 22-1,this means that the problem is in tire 2 (sensor 2).
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You must refer to the Sensor Position Check screen to see what location tire 2 is in. Do not
assume it is in position 2 (left rear tire).
According to the Sensor Position Check screen tire 2 is in position 1, the left front tire.
SENSOR ID LEARNING
NOTE:
Even if you replace only one sensor, the Sensor ID Learning procedure must be done to all four
wheels.
6. In the Select Mode menu, select Honda Systems, and select the Enter button.
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7. In the System Selection Menu, select TPMS, then select the Enter button.
8. In the Mode Menu, select Sensor ID Learning, then select the Enter button.
NOTE:
Make sure there are no other vehicles or other wheels with TPMS sensors within 10 feet of the
vehicle you are working on.
10. On the TPMS Sensor ID Learning screen, turn on the TPMS sensor tool by following the
on-screen instructions. The Accord is shown on the sample screen.
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TPMS Sensor Tools > Page 1573
NOTE:
Each model is different. Turning on the TPMS sensor tool incorrectly could lead to incorrect
diagnosis and repair.
Once the TPMS sensor tool is turned on, select the YES button.
11. Follow the instructions on the TPMS Sensor ID Learning screen. When prompted, go to the left
front wheel, then select the Enter button.
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12. Wait about 5 seconds, and the TPMS Sensor ID Learning screen should change to an
operation progress bar.
NOTE:
^ Wait for the timer to start. When you see the blue bar, use the TPMS sensor tool.
^ If the sensor IDs appear without the TPMS sensor tool button being pushed, a TPMS sensor is
transmitting. Select the Exit button, wait 5 minutes for the sensor to go to sleep, then follow the
on-screen prompts.
13. Point and hold the TPMS sensor tool 10 to 20 inches from the left front wheel valve stem. Press
and hold the large transmit button for up to 1 minute. The button should flash red. The TPMS
sensor tool sends a signal to the TPMS sensor to turn on and broadcast the TPMS sensor ID to the
TPMS control unit.
14. Watch for the TPMS sensor IDs to appear on the HDS screen The TPMS control unit must read
the sensor ID five times to complete the learning procedure.
NOTE:
15. The TPMS sensor ID learning changes to the following screen once the procedure is complete.
Select the Enter button.
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TPMS Sensor Tools > Page 1575
NOTE:
If the sensor does not respond (no sensor IDs are displayed), rotate the tire one-quarter turn and
try again. If the TPMS sensor does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, switch the tire to a
known-good location and try again. If the TPMS sensor still does not respond after one full rotation
of the tire, replace the TPMS sensor.
16. When prompted, go to the left rear wheel, then select the Enter button.
17. The TPMS sensor ID learning procedure goes through the same steps as the left front wheel
(see steps 12 thru 15). When the timer starts (the blue bar appears), point and hold the TPMS
sensor tool 10 to 20 inches from the left rear wheel valve stem. Press and hold the large transmit
button for up to 1 minute. The button should flash red. The TPMS sensor tool sends a signal to the
TPMS sensor to turn on and broadcast the TPMS sensor ID to the TPMS control unit.
NOTE:
^ If the sensor IDs appear without the TPMS sensor tool button being pushed, a TPMS sensor is
transmitting. Select the Exit button, wait 5 minutes for the sensor to go to sleep, then follow the
on-screen prompts.
^ If the sensor does not respond (no sensor IDs are displayed), rotate the tire one-quarter turn and
try again. If the TPMS sensor does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, switch the tire to a
known-good location and try again. If the TPMS sensor still does not respond after one full rotation
of the tire, replace the TPMS sensor.
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TPMS Sensor Tools > Page 1576
18. When prompted, go to the right rear wheel, then select the Enter button.
19. The TPMS sensor ID learning procedure goes through the same steps as the left front wheel
(see steps 12 thru 15). When the timer starts (the blue bar appears), point and hold the TPMS
sensor tool 10 to 20 inches from the right rear wheel valve stem. Press and hold the large transmit
button for up to 1 minute. The button should flash red. The TPMS sensor tool sends a signal to the
TPMS sensor to turn on and broadcast the TPMS sensor ID to the TPMS control unit.
NOTE:
^ If the sensor IDs appear without the TPMS sensor tool button being pushed, a TPMS sensor is
transmitting. Select the Exit button, wait 5 minutes for the sensor to go to sleep, then follow the
on-screen prompts.
^ If the sensor does not respond (no sensor IDs are displayed), rotate the tire one-quarter turn and
try again. If the TPMS sensor does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, switch the tire to a
known-good location and try again. If the TPMS sensor still does not respond after one full rotation
of the tire, replace the TPMS sensor.
20. When prompted, go to the right front wheel, then select the Enter button.
21. The TPMS sensor ID learning procedure goes through the same steps as the left front wheel
(see steps 12 thru 15). When the timer starts (the blue bar appears), point and hold the TPMS
sensor tool 10 to 20 inches from the right front wheel valve stem. Press and hold the large transmit
button for up to 1 minute. The button should flash red. The TPMS sensor tool sends a signal to the
TPMS sensor to turn on and broadcast the TPMS sensor ID to the TPMS control unit.
NOTE:
^ If the sensor IDs appear without the TPMS sensor tool button being pushed, a TPMS sensor is
transmitting. Select the Exit button, wait 5 minutes for the sensor to go to sleep, then follow the
on-screen prompts.
^ If the sensor does not respond (no sensor IDs are displayed), rotate the tire one-quarter turn and
try again. If the TPMS sensor does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, switch the tire to a
known-good location and try again. If the TPMS sensor still does not respond after one full rotation
of the tire, replace the TPMS sensor.
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22. The sensor ID learning procedure is complete. Select the Enter button to continue to register
the TPMS sensor IDs in the TPMS unit.
23. The low tire pressure indicator is flashing and requires road-testing the vehicle. On the TPMS
Sensor ID Learning screen, select the Enter button.
24. Drive the vehicle for 2 minutes above 30 mph, or until the low tire pressure indicator goes off.
Once the indicator goes off, stop the vehicle.
25. In the Mode Menu, select the Data List, and then select the Enter button. Check the tire
pressure at all four tires to confirm that the TPMS control unit is reading the correct tire pressures.
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26. Return to the Mode Menu, select DTCs, then select the Enter button.
Disclaimer
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Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tire Monitor System - Usage of TPMS Sensor Tools
Tire Pressure Sensor: Technical Service Bulletins Tire Monitor System - Usage of TPMS Sensor
Tools
06-072
(Supersedes 06-072, dated January 5, 2007, to update the information marked by the black bars
and asterisks)
*VEHICLES AFFECTED
INTRODUCTION
Beginning with some 2007 models, Honda is using a second type of TPMS (tire pressure
monitoring system) that does not use initiators like the 2006 and earlier
TPMS.
^ Are mounted on the inside of the rim, connected to the valve stem.
^ Use a wireless transmission to send tire pressure and temperature information to the TPMS unit.
^ Use non-replaceable batteries. To save battery life, the sensors turn on only when the vehicle is
being used.
*The first type of TPMS (all vehicles through 2006) uses initiators mounted above each wheel.
When you turn the ignition switch to ON (II), the initiators send out a low frequency signal to turn on
the TPMS sensors. The initiator, in conjunction with the TPMS control unit, determines the tire
location. For example, if the right front tire is low on air, the customer sees the low tire pressure
indicator and an indiction that the right front tire is low on pressure. The initiator-type TPMS, or
location-type TPMS (in the HDS), is used on the 2005-08 Pilot, the 2006-08 Ridgeline, and the
2005-08 Odyssey Touring models.*
The new TPMS does not use initiators. The TPMS sensors have a built-in acceleration sensor that
turns on the TPMS sensors when the vehicle speed reaches about 25 mph. Without an initiator, the
TPMS control unit cannot determine tire location. For example, if the right front tire is low on air, the
customer sees only the low pressure indicator and must check all four tires to find the problem tire.
During diagnosis, the TPMS control unit provides a code for each tire.
NOTE:
^ During diagnosis, the TPMS control unit gives a tire number, but you need to do the sensor
position check to find the location of the tire number.
^ Use with HDS software version 2.011.010 or later. The initiator-less TPMS, or no location-type
TPMS, is used on vehicles affected by this bulletin.
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A TPMS sensor tool is used for troubleshooting and replacing the TPMS sensors. See TOOL
DESCRIPTION for more information.
WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION
None.
TOOL INFORMATION
TOOL DESCRIPTION
The TPMS sensor tool is a wireless tool that is used with the HDS for troubleshooting (sensor
position check) and for replacing TPMS sensors or the control unit (sensor ID learning).
General use:
^ Always make sure the TPMS sensor tool is set to low power unless otherwise instructed.
*^ Make sure there are no vehicles or other wheels with TPMS sensors within 10 feet of the vehicle
you are working on.
^ Make sure the batteries are in good condition and secure in the case. Refer to ServiceNews
article A07050D, Keep Those TPMS Sensor Tool Batteries From Popping Loose, for more
information.*
^ Turn on the TPMS sensor tool by following the HDS instructions. There are two different
wavelengths used, and there are two ways to turn on the TPMS sensor tool. If the TPMS sensor
tool is not turned on correctly, you won't be able to troubleshoot the vehicle or do the sensor ID
learning procedure.
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^ Turn off the TPMS sensor tool by pressing and holding the small button as shown until the green
light in the button turns off. The tool will also turn off after 5 minutes of inactivity.
NOTE:
Offset your finger, or use just your nail to push the buttons, so you can see the light in the buttons.
Two AC adapters are included in the TPMS sensor tool kit. The 900 AC adapter is for the battery
charger. Use the straight AC adapter to power the TPMS sensor tool when charged batteries are
not available.
NOTE:
^ The AC adapter does not charge the batteries in the TPMS sensor tool.
^ Remove the batteries from the TPMS sensor tool when using the AC adapter.
There are two ways to charge the batteries. The method to use depends on the batteries' state of
charge. For brand new or fully discharged batteries:
1. Connect the AC adapter to the charger (make sure you use the AC adapter with the 90° bend).
2. Insert the batteries into the charger. Make sure you note the polarity (direction) of the batteries.
3. Plug the charger into a power outlet. The LEDs turn red, and quick charging begins.
NOTE:
^ If the LEDs do not come on, check that the batteries are properly installed. If the LEDs still do not
come on, replace the batteries.
^ If you press the red button while the batteries are charging, the battery discharge mode begins.
Press the red button again within 30 seconds, and the charger switches back to its quick charge
mode.
^ When the LEDs turn green, the batteries are charged, and the battery charger automatically
switches to trickle charge mode.
^ Remove the batteries from the charger when it is not plugged in.
For charging batteries when you don't know the state of charge:
1. Connect the AC adapter to the charger (make sure you use the AC adapter with the 90° bend).
2. Insert the batteries into the charger. Make sure you note the polarity (direction) of the batteries.
4. Press the red button once to start the discharge mode. The LEDs blink red.
NOTE:
^ If the LEDs do not come on, check that the batteries are properly installed. If the LEDs still do not
come on, replace the batteries.
^ If you press the red button a second time within 30 seconds, the battery quick charge mode
begins.
^ Once the batteries are discharged, the LEDs turn solid red and the battery quick charge mode
begins.
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^ When the LEDs turn green, the batteries are charged, and the battery charger automatically
switches to trickle charge mode.
^ Remove the batteries from the charger when it is not plugged in.
When the TPMS sets a DTC, it refers to Tire 1, Tire 2, Tire 3, or Tire 4. In the service manual, the
tire number is the sensor number. For example, Tire 2 is sensor 2.
However, the tire number is not the tire position. To diagnose or repair the vehicle, do the sensor
position check to find the location of the problem tire (or sensor) on the vehicle.
7. In the System Selection Menu, select TPMS, then select the Enter button.
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8. In the Mode menu, select Functional Tests, then select the Enter button.
9. In the Functional Test menu, select Sensor Position Check, then select the Enter button.
*10. On the Sensor Position Check screen, turn on the TPMS sensor tool by following the
on-screen instructions. (The Accord is shown on the sample
screen.)*
NOTE:
Each model is different. Turning on the TPMS sensor tool incorrectly could lead to incorrect
diagnosis and repair.
Once the TPMS sensor tool is turned on, select the YES button.
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11. Follow the instructions on the Sensor Position Check screen. When prompted, go to the left
front wheel, then select the Enter button.
12. Wait about 5 seconds, and the Sensor Position Check screen changes to an operation
progress bar.
* NOTE:
^ Wait for the timer to start. When the blue bar appears, use the TPMS sensor tool.*
^ If the sensor IDs appear without the TPMS sensor tool button being pushed, a TPMS sensor is
transmitting. Select the Exit button, wait 5 minutes for the sensor to go to sleep, then follow the
on-screen prompts.
13. Point and hold the TPMS sensor tool 10 to 20 inches from the left front wheel valve stem. Press
and hold the large transmit button for up to 1 minute. The button should flash red. The TPMS
sensor tool sends a signal to the TPMS sensor to turn on and broadcast the TPMS sensor ID to the
TPMS control unit.
14. Watch for the TPMS sensor IDs to appear on the HDS screen. The TPMS control unit must
read the sensor ID five times to complete the learning
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Page 1590
procedure.
NOTE:
15. The TPMS sensor ID learning changes to the following screen once the procedure is complete.
Select the Enter button.
NOTE:
If the sensor does not respond (no sensor IDs are displayed), rotate the tire one-quarter turn and
try again. If the TPMS sensor does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, switch the tire to a
known-good location and try again. If the TPMS sensor still does not respond after one full rotation
of the tire, replace the TPMS sensor.
16. When prompted, go to the left rear wheel, then select the Enter button.
17. The TPMS sensor ID learning procedure goes through the same steps as the left front wheel
(see steps 12 thru 15). When the timer starts (the blue bar appears), point and hold the TPMS
sensor tool 10 to 20 inches from the left rear wheel valve stem. Press and hold the large transmit
button for up to 1 minute. The button should flash red. The TPMS sensor tool sends a signal to the
TPMS sensor to turn on and broadcast the TPMS sensor
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Page 1591
ID to the TPMS control unit.
NOTE:
^ If the sensor IDs appear without the TPMS sensor tool button being pushed, a TPMS sensor is
transmitting. Select the Exit button, wait 5 minutes for the sensors to go to sleep, then follow the
on-screen prompts.
^ If the sensor does not respond (no sensor IDs are displayed), rotate the tire one-quarter turn and
try again. If the TPMS sensor does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, switch the tire to a
known-good location and try again. If the TPMS sensor still does not respond after one full rotation
of the tire, replace the TPMS sensor.
18. When prompted, go to the right rear wheel, then select the Enter button.
19. The TPMS sensor ID learning procedure goes through the same steps as the left front wheel
(see steps 12 thru 15). When the timer starts (the blue bar appears), point and hold the TPMS
sensor tool 10 to 20 inches from the right rear wheel valve stem. Press and hold the large transmit
button for up to 1 minute. The button should flash red. The TPMS sensor tool sends a signal to the
TPMS sensor to turn on and broadcast the TPMS sensor ID to the TPMS control unit.
NOTE:
^ If the sensor IDs appear without the TPMS sensor tool button being pushed, a TPMS sensor is
transmitting. Select the Exit button, wait 5 minutes for the sensors to go to sleep, then follow the
on-screen prompts.
^ If the sensor does not respond (no sensor IDs are displayed), rotate the tire one-quarter turn and
try again. If the TPMS sensor does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, switch the tire to a
known-good location and try again. If the TPMS sensor still does not respond after one full rotation
of the tire, replace the TPMS sensor.
20. When prompted, go to the right front wheel, then select the Enter button.
21. The TPMS sensor ID learning procedure goes through the same steps as the left front wheel
(see steps 12 thru 15). When the timer starts (the blue bar appears), point and hold the TPMS
sensor tool 10 to 20 inches from the right front wheel valve stem. Press and hold the large transmit
button for up to 1 minute. The button should flash red. The TPMS sensor tool sends a signal to the
TPMS sensor to turn on and broadcast the TPMS
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NOTE:
^ If the sensor IDs appear without the TPMS sensor tool button being pushed, a TPMS sensor is
transmitting. Select the Exit button, wait 5 minutes for the sensors to go to sleep, then follow the
on-screen prompts.
^ If the sensor does not respond (no sensor IDs are displayed), rotate the tire one-quarter turn and
try again. If the TPMS sensor does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, switch the tire to a
known-good location and try again. If the TPMS sensor still does not respond after one full rotation
of the tire, replace the TPMS sensor.
22. The sensor position check is complete. Using the DTC(s) and the information on the Sensor
Position Check screen, locate the problem tire.
If the vehicle has DTC 22-1,this means that the problem is in tire 2 (sensor 2).
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Page 1593
You must refer to the Sensor Position Check screen to see what location tire 2 is in. Do not
assume it is in position 2 (left rear tire).
According to the Sensor Position Check screen tire 2 is in position 1, the left front tire.
SENSOR ID LEARNING
NOTE:
Even if you replace only one sensor, the Sensor ID Learning procedure must be done to all four
wheels.
6. In the Select Mode menu, select Honda Systems, and select the Enter button.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Sensors and Switches - Wheels and Tires > Tire Pressure
Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tire Monitor System - Usage of TPMS Sensor Tools >
Page 1595
7. In the System Selection Menu, select TPMS, then select the Enter button.
8. In the Mode Menu, select Sensor ID Learning, then select the Enter button.
NOTE:
Make sure there are no other vehicles or other wheels with TPMS sensors within 10 feet of the
vehicle you are working on.
10. On the TPMS Sensor ID Learning screen, turn on the TPMS sensor tool by following the
on-screen instructions. The Accord is shown on the sample screen.
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Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tire Monitor System - Usage of TPMS Sensor Tools >
Page 1596
NOTE:
Each model is different. Turning on the TPMS sensor tool incorrectly could lead to incorrect
diagnosis and repair.
Once the TPMS sensor tool is turned on, select the YES button.
11. Follow the instructions on the TPMS Sensor ID Learning screen. When prompted, go to the left
front wheel, then select the Enter button.
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Page 1597
12. Wait about 5 seconds, and the TPMS Sensor ID Learning screen should change to an
operation progress bar.
NOTE:
^ Wait for the timer to start. When you see the blue bar, use the TPMS sensor tool.
^ If the sensor IDs appear without the TPMS sensor tool button being pushed, a TPMS sensor is
transmitting. Select the Exit button, wait 5 minutes for the sensor to go to sleep, then follow the
on-screen prompts.
13. Point and hold the TPMS sensor tool 10 to 20 inches from the left front wheel valve stem. Press
and hold the large transmit button for up to 1 minute. The button should flash red. The TPMS
sensor tool sends a signal to the TPMS sensor to turn on and broadcast the TPMS sensor ID to the
TPMS control unit.
14. Watch for the TPMS sensor IDs to appear on the HDS screen The TPMS control unit must read
the sensor ID five times to complete the learning procedure.
NOTE:
15. The TPMS sensor ID learning changes to the following screen once the procedure is complete.
Select the Enter button.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Sensors and Switches - Wheels and Tires > Tire Pressure
Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tire Monitor System - Usage of TPMS Sensor Tools >
Page 1598
NOTE:
If the sensor does not respond (no sensor IDs are displayed), rotate the tire one-quarter turn and
try again. If the TPMS sensor does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, switch the tire to a
known-good location and try again. If the TPMS sensor still does not respond after one full rotation
of the tire, replace the TPMS sensor.
16. When prompted, go to the left rear wheel, then select the Enter button.
17. The TPMS sensor ID learning procedure goes through the same steps as the left front wheel
(see steps 12 thru 15). When the timer starts (the blue bar appears), point and hold the TPMS
sensor tool 10 to 20 inches from the left rear wheel valve stem. Press and hold the large transmit
button for up to 1 minute. The button should flash red. The TPMS sensor tool sends a signal to the
TPMS sensor to turn on and broadcast the TPMS sensor ID to the TPMS control unit.
NOTE:
^ If the sensor IDs appear without the TPMS sensor tool button being pushed, a TPMS sensor is
transmitting. Select the Exit button, wait 5 minutes for the sensor to go to sleep, then follow the
on-screen prompts.
^ If the sensor does not respond (no sensor IDs are displayed), rotate the tire one-quarter turn and
try again. If the TPMS sensor does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, switch the tire to a
known-good location and try again. If the TPMS sensor still does not respond after one full rotation
of the tire, replace the TPMS sensor.
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Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tire Monitor System - Usage of TPMS Sensor Tools >
Page 1599
18. When prompted, go to the right rear wheel, then select the Enter button.
19. The TPMS sensor ID learning procedure goes through the same steps as the left front wheel
(see steps 12 thru 15). When the timer starts (the blue bar appears), point and hold the TPMS
sensor tool 10 to 20 inches from the right rear wheel valve stem. Press and hold the large transmit
button for up to 1 minute. The button should flash red. The TPMS sensor tool sends a signal to the
TPMS sensor to turn on and broadcast the TPMS sensor ID to the TPMS control unit.
NOTE:
^ If the sensor IDs appear without the TPMS sensor tool button being pushed, a TPMS sensor is
transmitting. Select the Exit button, wait 5 minutes for the sensor to go to sleep, then follow the
on-screen prompts.
^ If the sensor does not respond (no sensor IDs are displayed), rotate the tire one-quarter turn and
try again. If the TPMS sensor does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, switch the tire to a
known-good location and try again. If the TPMS sensor still does not respond after one full rotation
of the tire, replace the TPMS sensor.
20. When prompted, go to the right front wheel, then select the Enter button.
21. The TPMS sensor ID learning procedure goes through the same steps as the left front wheel
(see steps 12 thru 15). When the timer starts (the blue bar appears), point and hold the TPMS
sensor tool 10 to 20 inches from the right front wheel valve stem. Press and hold the large transmit
button for up to 1 minute. The button should flash red. The TPMS sensor tool sends a signal to the
TPMS sensor to turn on and broadcast the TPMS sensor ID to the TPMS control unit.
NOTE:
^ If the sensor IDs appear without the TPMS sensor tool button being pushed, a TPMS sensor is
transmitting. Select the Exit button, wait 5 minutes for the sensor to go to sleep, then follow the
on-screen prompts.
^ If the sensor does not respond (no sensor IDs are displayed), rotate the tire one-quarter turn and
try again. If the TPMS sensor does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, switch the tire to a
known-good location and try again. If the TPMS sensor still does not respond after one full rotation
of the tire, replace the TPMS sensor.
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Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tire Monitor System - Usage of TPMS Sensor Tools >
Page 1600
22. The sensor ID learning procedure is complete. Select the Enter button to continue to register
the TPMS sensor IDs in the TPMS unit.
23. The low tire pressure indicator is flashing and requires road-testing the vehicle. On the TPMS
Sensor ID Learning screen, select the Enter button.
24. Drive the vehicle for 2 minutes above 30 mph, or until the low tire pressure indicator goes off.
Once the indicator goes off, stop the vehicle.
25. In the Mode Menu, select the Data List, and then select the Enter button. Check the tire
pressure at all four tires to confirm that the TPMS control unit is reading the correct tire pressures.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Sensors and Switches - Wheels and Tires > Tire Pressure
Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tire Monitor System - Usage of TPMS Sensor Tools >
Page 1601
26. Return to the Mode Menu, select DTCs, then select the Enter button.
Disclaimer
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Sensors and Switches - Wheels and Tires > Tire Pressure
Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 1602
Tire Pressure Sensor: Testing and Inspection Memorizing the Tire Pressure Sensor ID
TPMS sensor initializer tool AKS0620006 Available through the American Honda Tool and
Equipment Program; call 1-888-424-6857
All four tire pressure sensor IDs must be memorized to the TPMS control unit whenever you do any
of these actions:
NOTE: ^
To ensure the control unit memorizes the correct ID, the vehicle with the new sensor must be at
least 10 ft (3 m) away from other vehicles that have tire pressure sensors.
1. With the ignition switch at LOCK (0) wait 5 minutes or more for the TPMS sensors to go to sleep
mode. Connect the HDS to the data link
connector (DLC) (A) located under the driver's side of the dashboard.
2. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 3. Make sure the HDS communicates with the vehicle and the
TPMS control unit. If it doesn't, troubleshoot the DLC circuit. 4. Select Sensor ID Learning from the
mode menu on the HDS. 5. Follow HDS screen prompts to turn on the TPMS sensor initializer tool
(A). Verify the power switch (B) is in the "Low" position.
6. Hold the TPMS sensor initializer tool near one wheel, memorize the pressure sensor ID by
following the screen prompts on the HDS.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Sensors and Switches - Wheels and Tires > Tire Pressure
Sensor > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Memorizing the Tire Pressure Sensor ID > Page 1605
7. Repeat step 6 for each wheel until all four sensor IDs are memorized. When all four IDs are
memorized, the low tire pressure indicator blinks. 8. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). 9.
Disconnect the HDS from the DLC.
10. Test-drive the vehicle at 28 mph (45 km/h) or more for at least 1 minute. 11. Make sure the low
tire pressure indicator does not blink. 12. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). 13. Reduce the
pressure in one tire until it is less than the appropriate specification. 14. Turn the ignition switch to
ON (II). 15. Test-drive the vehicle at 28 mph (45 km/h) or more for at least 1 minute. 16. Make sure
the low tire pressure indicator turns on, then inflate the tire. 17. Repeat step 12 to 16 for all the
other tires. 18. Clear any DTCs with the HDS.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Sensors and Switches - Wheels and Tires > Tire Pressure
Sensor > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Memorizing the Tire Pressure Sensor ID > Page 1606
Tire Pressure Sensor: Testing and Inspection Tire Pressure Sensor Location
NOTE: This procedure locates where the tire pressure sensors number 1, 2, 3, 4 are mounted,
when activated by the TPMS sensor initializer tool.
^ Memorizing tire pressure sensor IDs (including replacing the TPMS control unit, or the tire
pressure sensors).
^ Wheel rotation.
1. With the ignition switch at LOCK (0), connect the HDS to the data link connector (DLC (A)
located under the driver's side of the dashboard.
2. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 3. Make sure the HDS communicates with the vehicle and the
TPMS control unit. If it doesn't, troubleshoot the DLC circuit. 4. Select Function Test from the mode
menu, then select Sensor Position Check on the HDS. 5. Follow HDS screen prompts to turn on
the TPMS sensor initializer tool (A). Verify the power switch (B) is in the "Low" position.
6. Follow the prompts on the HDS to activate the tire pressure sensors using the TPMS sensor
initializer tool. Start with the left-front (LF) wheel.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Sensors and Switches - Wheels and Tires > Tire Pressure
Sensor > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Memorizing the Tire Pressure Sensor ID > Page 1607
7. Check the HDS screen, and note the active sensor reception order of the tire pressure sensor 1,
2, 3, 4.
NOTE: If the sensor does not respond to the TPMS initializer, rotate the tire 1/4 turn and retry. If
the sensor still does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, swap the tire to a known-good
location and retry. If the sensor still does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, replace the
tire pressure sensor.
8. Note the sensor location for reference. 9. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0).
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Sensors and Switches - Wheels and Tires > Tire Pressure
Sensor > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Page 1608
Tire Pressure Sensor: Service and Repair
Removal
1. Raise the vehicle, and support it with safety stands in the proper locations. 2. Remove the wheel
with the faulty sensor. 3. Remove the tire valve stem cap and the valve stem core, and let the tire
deflate. 4. Remove any balance weights, and then break the bead loose from the wheel with a
commercially available tire changer (A).
5. Position the wheel so the tire machine (A) and tire iron (B) are next to the valve stem (C) and will
move away from it when the machine starts.
6. Remove the valve stem nut (A) and washer (B), then remove the tire pressure sensor with valve
stem (C) from the wheel.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Sensors and Switches - Wheels and Tires > Tire Pressure
Sensor > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Page 1609
7. Remove and discard the valve stem grommet (A) from the tire pressure sensor (B).
NOTE: ^
The valve stem grommet might stay in the wheel; make sure you remove it.
^ Always use a new valve stem grommet whenever the tire pressure sensor has been removed
from the wheel. When only removing a tire from the wheel, replace the valve stem grommet if it is
possible.
Installation
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Sensors and Switches - Wheels and Tires > Tire Pressure
Sensor > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Page 1610
1. Before installing the tire pressure sensor, clean the mating surfaces on the sensor and the
wheel. 2. Install the tire pressure sensor (A) and the washer (B) to the wheel (C), and tighten the
valve stem nut (D) finger tight. Make sure the pressure
3. Tighten the valve stem nut to the specified torque while holding the tire pressure sensor.
NOTE: ^
Do not use air or electric impact tools to tighten a valve stem nut.
^ Do not twist the tire pressure sensor to adjust its position with the wheel, as this will damage or
deform the valve stem grommet.
4. Lube the tire bead sparingly, and position the wheel so the tire machine (A) and tire iron (B) are
next to the valve stem (C) and will move away
from it when the machine starts. Then install the tire onto the wheel.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Sensors and Switches - Wheels and Tires > Tire Pressure
Sensor > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Page 1611
5. With a dry air source, inflate the tire to 300 kPa (3.1 kgf/cm2, 44 psi) to seat the tire bead to the
rim, then adjust the tire pressure, then install the
NOTE: Make sure the tire bead is seated on both sides of the rim uniformly.
6. Check and adjust the wheel balance, then install the wheels on the vehicle. 7. Remove the jack
stands, and lower the vehicle. Torque the wheel nuts to specifications. 8. Connect the HDS, and
memorize the pressure sensor IDs using the TPMS sensor initializer tool.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Tire Monitoring System > Low Tire Pressure Indicator >
Component Information > Locations
Low Tire Pressure Indicator: Service and Repair TPMS Indicator Reset
The TPMS (tire pressure monitoring system) has a low tire pressure indicator and a TPMS
indicator. When the TPMS control unit detects low pressure in a tire, or a problem in the system, it
turns on the appropriate indicator.
^ If low tire pressure is detected in one or more tires, the low tire pressure indicator comes on.
^ If low tire pressure and a problem in the system are detected, only the TPMS indicator comes on.
If the system is OK, the TPMS indicator and the low tire pressure indicator should come on when
you turn the ignition switch to ON (II), and then go off 2 seconds later. If they don't, there is a
problem with the system.
If the system detects low pressure in any of the four tires, the low tire pressure indicator comes on,
and the control unit will set one or more of these codes: DTC 11, 13, 15, 17. When the tire pressure
returns to normal, the control unit turns off the indicators and stores the DTC(s). However, if the
control unit detects a problem in the system during an indication of low tire pressure, it turns off the
low tire pressure indicator, stores the DTC(s), and turns on the TPMS indicator(s).
NOTE: Tire pressures increase slightly as the temperature in the tires rises during driving at
highway speeds. Pressures can also increase or decrease slightly with changes in outside air
temperature. A temperature change of about 18°F (10°C) changes tire pressure by about 10 kPa
(0.1 kgf/cm2, 1.5 psi). If the temperature drops, tire pressure could decrease just enough to turn on
the low tire pressure indicator, but later, the tire temperature could increase enough to turn the
indicator off. To resolve a complaint of such intermittent indications, confirm and clear the stored
DTC(s) and check the tire pressures. Then explain to the customer how temperature changes can
affect the system, especially when tire pressures are near the low end of the TPMS normal range -
168 to 220 kPa (1.7 to 2.2 kgf/cm2, 24 to 32 psi).
If a problem is detected in the system, the TPMS indicator comes on and stays on until the system
returns to normal with most DTCs. If DTC 81, 83 or 85 is set, the TPMS indicator goes off only
when the ignition switch is turned to LOCK (0).
When a flat tire is replaced with the spare tire, the TPMS indicator comes on (DTC 32, 34, 36 or
38) because the system is no longer receiving the signal from the tire's transmitter. This is not a
problem with the spare tire.
After rotating the tires or replacing a tire pressure sensor, drive the vehicle for at least 40 seconds
at a speed of 15 mph (24 km/h) or more, and all the sensor IDs are memorized automatically.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Tire Monitoring System > Tire Pressure Module >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tire Monitor System - VT55 TPMS Update Information
Tire Pressure Module: Technical Service Bulletins Tire Monitor System - VT55 TPMS Update
Information
09-070
INTRODUCTION
The software for the VT55 TPMS tool is updated periodically to add new vehicles, fix software
bugs, and enhance the tool's function. You can use the ATEQ update wizard to download software
and firmware to your VT55 using a PC and the Internet. It is extremely important to use the latest
VT55 software to ensure that the current TPMS initialization and diagnostic procedures are used.
American Honda is also introducing a new policy to ensure that VT55 tools are updated promptly.
The VT55 software must now be updated within 3 days of receiving notification of an available
update from an iN message or other Honda communication. If an out-of-date version is used, any
TPMS replacements may not be covered under warranty.
^ VT55 Tool Kit (includes VT55, AC adapter, USB cable and CD): P/N AEQVT55
P/N AEQVT555
^ Internet access
To order the VT55, or the USB connector, go to the Honda Tool and Equipment catalog on the iN
(select Service > Service Bay > Tool and Equipment > Online Catalog), or call.
SOFTWARE VERSION
To check the VT55 version software, turn on the unit and the version number appears for about 2
seconds during the startup process. If you miss it, turn the VT55 off by pressing and holding the
power switch for about 2 seconds, then turn it back on.
1. Go online to
update.ateq.com/software/webvt/update_webvt.zip
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Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tire Monitor System - VT55 TPMS Update Information > Page 1623
2. Depending on your Internet connection, the Connect to update screen may appear. If so, enter
the login and password.
Login: webvt
Password: update
3. The File Download screen appears. Select Save. The Zip file will be saved to your computer.
4. After the Zip file finishes downloading, open the update - webvt.zip file by double-clicking on it.
5. The WinZip - update - webvt.zip screen appears. Double-click the WebVT55_V4_2.exe file.
NOTE:
If you see a Compressed (Zipped) Folders Error, contact your IT person because there is a
permissions issue with your firewall.
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Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tire Monitor System - VT55 TPMS Update Information > Page 1624
6. The WinZip Caution screen appears. Select Yes.
7. If you have a previous version of the WebVT software installed on your computer, the
InstallShield Wizard gives you the option to modify, repair, or
If you have a previous software version, select Modify, then Next. After the software is modified
select Finish.
10. The InstallShield Wizard asks if you want to automatically start the WebVT application when
you start your computer. Select Yes.
11. The InstallShield Wizard will prompt you when WebVT is installed on your computer. Select
Finish.
12. The serial emulation port driver installer screen appears. Connect your VT55, and turn it on.
Select Next.
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Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tire Monitor System - VT55 TPMS Update Information > Page 1626
13. After a few seconds, the serial emulation port driver installer prompts you when it is finished.
Select Finish.
14. If you have any problems installing the VT55 update software, call ATEQ at 734-838-3100, and
select option 2 for service.
NOTE:
^ Some screens may list the tool as VT5O or VT55. This is OK; it will not affect updating the tool.
^ If at any time during the update an error message appears, or the VT55 is not detected, see the
Standard User Guide that is on the ATEQ CD that came with the tool, or call ATEQ at
734-838-3100, and select option 2 for service.
1. Go to your desktop, and double-click the WebVT icon to launch the VT55 update software.
2. Connect the VT55 to your PC with the USB cable, then turn it on. The serial number and current
software version automatically display.
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Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tire Monitor System - VT55 TPMS Update Information > Page 1627
3. The Found New Hardware Wizard may appear. If it does, select Yes, now and every time I
connect a device, then select Next.
4. The Found New Hardware Wizard prompts you to install the ATEQ R5232 Emulation software.
Select Install the software automatically
5. The Found New Hardware Wizard will prompt you when the software is installed. Select Finish.
6. Select UPDATE DEVICE. Depending on your Internet connection, you may be prompted for a
login and password. If you know your login and
password, enter them, otherwise, contact your administrator or internet service provider for the
login and password.
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Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tire Monitor System - VT55 TPMS Update Information > Page 1628
7. If a new software version is available, you'll see a message asking if you want to update the
VT55. Select Yes.
NOTE:
Do not disconnect the VT55 during the update procedure, as you may permanently damage the
tool.
If no new software version is available, you'll see a message asking if you want to overwrite the
existing software. Select No.
8. The Dealer Identification screen appears. Enter your 6-digit dealer number, then select Apply.
9. If the dealer number is valid, your dealership's name and address appears in the dealer
information box. Select NEXT.
If the dealership number is not valid, call the American Honda Special Tools Hotline for assistance.
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Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tire Monitor System - VT55 TPMS Update Information > Page 1629
10. The VT55 begins updating. When the VT55 is finished updating, you'll see a message stating
the update is done. Disconnect the VT55, then select
OK.
11. Let the VT55 turn off (for about 1 minute). Turn it on, and confirm that the software is updated
to the software version listed under SOFTWARE
VERSION.
12. If you have more than one VT55, repeat the update procedure for each unit.
13. Once all VT55s are updated, select EXIT, and store the USB cable in a safe location for future
updates.
Disclaimer
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Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 1630
NOTE: Make sure the TPMS control unit mounting bracket is not bent or twisted as this may affect
its communication with the tire pressure sensors.
1. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). 2. Remove the driver's dashboard undercover. 3.
Disconnect the TPMS control unit connector (A).
4. Remove the TPMS control unit (B) from the bracket (C).
NOTE: While separating the TPMS control unit from the bracket, add in a flat-tipped screwdriver
between the TPMS control unit and the bracket at shown aria (D) to release the hook (E), and slide
out the TPMS control unit from the bracket.
5. Replace the bracket if necessary. 6. Install the TPMS control unit in the reverse order of
removal.
NOTE: Make sure the TPMS control unit is properly installed. You will hear a click when the TPMS
control unit is securely mounted on the bracket.
7. Connect the HDS, and memorize the pressure sensor IDs using the TPMS sensor initializer tool.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Tire Monitoring System > Tire Pressure Monitor Receiver /
Transponder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tire Monitor System - Usage of TPMS Sensor Tools
Tire Pressure Monitor Receiver / Transponder: Technical Service Bulletins Tire Monitor System -
Usage of TPMS Sensor Tools
06-072
(Supersedes 06-072, dated January 5, 2007, to update the information marked by the black bars
and asterisks)
*VEHICLES AFFECTED
INTRODUCTION
Beginning with some 2007 models, Honda is using a second type of TPMS (tire pressure
monitoring system) that does not use initiators like the 2006 and earlier
TPMS.
^ Are mounted on the inside of the rim, connected to the valve stem.
^ Use a wireless transmission to send tire pressure and temperature information to the TPMS unit.
^ Use non-replaceable batteries. To save battery life, the sensors turn on only when the vehicle is
being used.
*The first type of TPMS (all vehicles through 2006) uses initiators mounted above each wheel.
When you turn the ignition switch to ON (II), the initiators send out a low frequency signal to turn on
the TPMS sensors. The initiator, in conjunction with the TPMS control unit, determines the tire
location. For example, if the right front tire is low on air, the customer sees the low tire pressure
indicator and an indiction that the right front tire is low on pressure. The initiator-type TPMS, or
location-type TPMS (in the HDS), is used on the 2005-08 Pilot, the 2006-08 Ridgeline, and the
2005-08 Odyssey Touring models.*
The new TPMS does not use initiators. The TPMS sensors have a built-in acceleration sensor that
turns on the TPMS sensors when the vehicle speed reaches about 25 mph. Without an initiator, the
TPMS control unit cannot determine tire location. For example, if the right front tire is low on air, the
customer sees only the low pressure indicator and must check all four tires to find the problem tire.
During diagnosis, the TPMS control unit provides a code for each tire.
NOTE:
^ During diagnosis, the TPMS control unit gives a tire number, but you need to do the sensor
position check to find the location of the tire number.
^ Use with HDS software version 2.011.010 or later. The initiator-less TPMS, or no location-type
TPMS, is used on vehicles affected by this bulletin.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Tire Monitoring System > Tire Pressure Monitor Receiver /
Transponder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tire Monitor System - Usage of TPMS Sensor Tools
> Page 1639
A TPMS sensor tool is used for troubleshooting and replacing the TPMS sensors. See TOOL
DESCRIPTION for more information.
WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION
None.
TOOL INFORMATION
TOOL DESCRIPTION
The TPMS sensor tool is a wireless tool that is used with the HDS for troubleshooting (sensor
position check) and for replacing TPMS sensors or the control unit (sensor ID learning).
General use:
^ Always make sure the TPMS sensor tool is set to low power unless otherwise instructed.
*^ Make sure there are no vehicles or other wheels with TPMS sensors within 10 feet of the vehicle
you are working on.
^ Make sure the batteries are in good condition and secure in the case. Refer to ServiceNews
article A07050D, Keep Those TPMS Sensor Tool Batteries From Popping Loose, for more
information.*
^ Turn on the TPMS sensor tool by following the HDS instructions. There are two different
wavelengths used, and there are two ways to turn on the TPMS sensor tool. If the TPMS sensor
tool is not turned on correctly, you won't be able to troubleshoot the vehicle or do the sensor ID
learning procedure.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Tire Monitoring System > Tire Pressure Monitor Receiver /
Transponder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tire Monitor System - Usage of TPMS Sensor Tools
> Page 1640
^ Turn off the TPMS sensor tool by pressing and holding the small button as shown until the green
light in the button turns off. The tool will also turn off after 5 minutes of inactivity.
NOTE:
Offset your finger, or use just your nail to push the buttons, so you can see the light in the buttons.
Two AC adapters are included in the TPMS sensor tool kit. The 900 AC adapter is for the battery
charger. Use the straight AC adapter to power the TPMS sensor tool when charged batteries are
not available.
NOTE:
^ The AC adapter does not charge the batteries in the TPMS sensor tool.
^ Remove the batteries from the TPMS sensor tool when using the AC adapter.
There are two ways to charge the batteries. The method to use depends on the batteries' state of
charge. For brand new or fully discharged batteries:
1. Connect the AC adapter to the charger (make sure you use the AC adapter with the 90° bend).
2. Insert the batteries into the charger. Make sure you note the polarity (direction) of the batteries.
3. Plug the charger into a power outlet. The LEDs turn red, and quick charging begins.
NOTE:
^ If the LEDs do not come on, check that the batteries are properly installed. If the LEDs still do not
come on, replace the batteries.
^ If you press the red button while the batteries are charging, the battery discharge mode begins.
Press the red button again within 30 seconds, and the charger switches back to its quick charge
mode.
^ When the LEDs turn green, the batteries are charged, and the battery charger automatically
switches to trickle charge mode.
^ Remove the batteries from the charger when it is not plugged in.
For charging batteries when you don't know the state of charge:
1. Connect the AC adapter to the charger (make sure you use the AC adapter with the 90° bend).
2. Insert the batteries into the charger. Make sure you note the polarity (direction) of the batteries.
4. Press the red button once to start the discharge mode. The LEDs blink red.
NOTE:
^ If the LEDs do not come on, check that the batteries are properly installed. If the LEDs still do not
come on, replace the batteries.
^ If you press the red button a second time within 30 seconds, the battery quick charge mode
begins.
^ Once the batteries are discharged, the LEDs turn solid red and the battery quick charge mode
begins.
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^ When the LEDs turn green, the batteries are charged, and the battery charger automatically
switches to trickle charge mode.
^ Remove the batteries from the charger when it is not plugged in.
When the TPMS sets a DTC, it refers to Tire 1, Tire 2, Tire 3, or Tire 4. In the service manual, the
tire number is the sensor number. For example, Tire 2 is sensor 2.
However, the tire number is not the tire position. To diagnose or repair the vehicle, do the sensor
position check to find the location of the problem tire (or sensor) on the vehicle.
7. In the System Selection Menu, select TPMS, then select the Enter button.
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8. In the Mode menu, select Functional Tests, then select the Enter button.
9. In the Functional Test menu, select Sensor Position Check, then select the Enter button.
*10. On the Sensor Position Check screen, turn on the TPMS sensor tool by following the
on-screen instructions. (The Accord is shown on the sample
screen.)*
NOTE:
Each model is different. Turning on the TPMS sensor tool incorrectly could lead to incorrect
diagnosis and repair.
Once the TPMS sensor tool is turned on, select the YES button.
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11. Follow the instructions on the Sensor Position Check screen. When prompted, go to the left
front wheel, then select the Enter button.
12. Wait about 5 seconds, and the Sensor Position Check screen changes to an operation
progress bar.
* NOTE:
^ Wait for the timer to start. When the blue bar appears, use the TPMS sensor tool.*
^ If the sensor IDs appear without the TPMS sensor tool button being pushed, a TPMS sensor is
transmitting. Select the Exit button, wait 5 minutes for the sensor to go to sleep, then follow the
on-screen prompts.
13. Point and hold the TPMS sensor tool 10 to 20 inches from the left front wheel valve stem. Press
and hold the large transmit button for up to 1 minute. The button should flash red. The TPMS
sensor tool sends a signal to the TPMS sensor to turn on and broadcast the TPMS sensor ID to the
TPMS control unit.
14. Watch for the TPMS sensor IDs to appear on the HDS screen. The TPMS control unit must
read the sensor ID five times to complete the learning
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procedure.
NOTE:
15. The TPMS sensor ID learning changes to the following screen once the procedure is complete.
Select the Enter button.
NOTE:
If the sensor does not respond (no sensor IDs are displayed), rotate the tire one-quarter turn and
try again. If the TPMS sensor does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, switch the tire to a
known-good location and try again. If the TPMS sensor still does not respond after one full rotation
of the tire, replace the TPMS sensor.
16. When prompted, go to the left rear wheel, then select the Enter button.
17. The TPMS sensor ID learning procedure goes through the same steps as the left front wheel
(see steps 12 thru 15). When the timer starts (the blue bar appears), point and hold the TPMS
sensor tool 10 to 20 inches from the left rear wheel valve stem. Press and hold the large transmit
button for up to 1 minute. The button should flash red. The TPMS sensor tool sends a signal to the
TPMS sensor to turn on and broadcast the TPMS sensor
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Transponder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tire Monitor System - Usage of TPMS Sensor Tools
> Page 1646
ID to the TPMS control unit.
NOTE:
^ If the sensor IDs appear without the TPMS sensor tool button being pushed, a TPMS sensor is
transmitting. Select the Exit button, wait 5 minutes for the sensors to go to sleep, then follow the
on-screen prompts.
^ If the sensor does not respond (no sensor IDs are displayed), rotate the tire one-quarter turn and
try again. If the TPMS sensor does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, switch the tire to a
known-good location and try again. If the TPMS sensor still does not respond after one full rotation
of the tire, replace the TPMS sensor.
18. When prompted, go to the right rear wheel, then select the Enter button.
19. The TPMS sensor ID learning procedure goes through the same steps as the left front wheel
(see steps 12 thru 15). When the timer starts (the blue bar appears), point and hold the TPMS
sensor tool 10 to 20 inches from the right rear wheel valve stem. Press and hold the large transmit
button for up to 1 minute. The button should flash red. The TPMS sensor tool sends a signal to the
TPMS sensor to turn on and broadcast the TPMS sensor ID to the TPMS control unit.
NOTE:
^ If the sensor IDs appear without the TPMS sensor tool button being pushed, a TPMS sensor is
transmitting. Select the Exit button, wait 5 minutes for the sensors to go to sleep, then follow the
on-screen prompts.
^ If the sensor does not respond (no sensor IDs are displayed), rotate the tire one-quarter turn and
try again. If the TPMS sensor does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, switch the tire to a
known-good location and try again. If the TPMS sensor still does not respond after one full rotation
of the tire, replace the TPMS sensor.
20. When prompted, go to the right front wheel, then select the Enter button.
21. The TPMS sensor ID learning procedure goes through the same steps as the left front wheel
(see steps 12 thru 15). When the timer starts (the blue bar appears), point and hold the TPMS
sensor tool 10 to 20 inches from the right front wheel valve stem. Press and hold the large transmit
button for up to 1 minute. The button should flash red. The TPMS sensor tool sends a signal to the
TPMS sensor to turn on and broadcast the TPMS
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NOTE:
^ If the sensor IDs appear without the TPMS sensor tool button being pushed, a TPMS sensor is
transmitting. Select the Exit button, wait 5 minutes for the sensors to go to sleep, then follow the
on-screen prompts.
^ If the sensor does not respond (no sensor IDs are displayed), rotate the tire one-quarter turn and
try again. If the TPMS sensor does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, switch the tire to a
known-good location and try again. If the TPMS sensor still does not respond after one full rotation
of the tire, replace the TPMS sensor.
22. The sensor position check is complete. Using the DTC(s) and the information on the Sensor
Position Check screen, locate the problem tire.
If the vehicle has DTC 22-1,this means that the problem is in tire 2 (sensor 2).
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You must refer to the Sensor Position Check screen to see what location tire 2 is in. Do not
assume it is in position 2 (left rear tire).
According to the Sensor Position Check screen tire 2 is in position 1, the left front tire.
SENSOR ID LEARNING
NOTE:
Even if you replace only one sensor, the Sensor ID Learning procedure must be done to all four
wheels.
6. In the Select Mode menu, select Honda Systems, and select the Enter button.
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7. In the System Selection Menu, select TPMS, then select the Enter button.
8. In the Mode Menu, select Sensor ID Learning, then select the Enter button.
NOTE:
Make sure there are no other vehicles or other wheels with TPMS sensors within 10 feet of the
vehicle you are working on.
10. On the TPMS Sensor ID Learning screen, turn on the TPMS sensor tool by following the
on-screen instructions. The Accord is shown on the sample screen.
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NOTE:
Each model is different. Turning on the TPMS sensor tool incorrectly could lead to incorrect
diagnosis and repair.
Once the TPMS sensor tool is turned on, select the YES button.
11. Follow the instructions on the TPMS Sensor ID Learning screen. When prompted, go to the left
front wheel, then select the Enter button.
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12. Wait about 5 seconds, and the TPMS Sensor ID Learning screen should change to an
operation progress bar.
NOTE:
^ Wait for the timer to start. When you see the blue bar, use the TPMS sensor tool.
^ If the sensor IDs appear without the TPMS sensor tool button being pushed, a TPMS sensor is
transmitting. Select the Exit button, wait 5 minutes for the sensor to go to sleep, then follow the
on-screen prompts.
13. Point and hold the TPMS sensor tool 10 to 20 inches from the left front wheel valve stem. Press
and hold the large transmit button for up to 1 minute. The button should flash red. The TPMS
sensor tool sends a signal to the TPMS sensor to turn on and broadcast the TPMS sensor ID to the
TPMS control unit.
14. Watch for the TPMS sensor IDs to appear on the HDS screen The TPMS control unit must read
the sensor ID five times to complete the learning procedure.
NOTE:
15. The TPMS sensor ID learning changes to the following screen once the procedure is complete.
Select the Enter button.
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> Page 1653
NOTE:
If the sensor does not respond (no sensor IDs are displayed), rotate the tire one-quarter turn and
try again. If the TPMS sensor does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, switch the tire to a
known-good location and try again. If the TPMS sensor still does not respond after one full rotation
of the tire, replace the TPMS sensor.
16. When prompted, go to the left rear wheel, then select the Enter button.
17. The TPMS sensor ID learning procedure goes through the same steps as the left front wheel
(see steps 12 thru 15). When the timer starts (the blue bar appears), point and hold the TPMS
sensor tool 10 to 20 inches from the left rear wheel valve stem. Press and hold the large transmit
button for up to 1 minute. The button should flash red. The TPMS sensor tool sends a signal to the
TPMS sensor to turn on and broadcast the TPMS sensor ID to the TPMS control unit.
NOTE:
^ If the sensor IDs appear without the TPMS sensor tool button being pushed, a TPMS sensor is
transmitting. Select the Exit button, wait 5 minutes for the sensor to go to sleep, then follow the
on-screen prompts.
^ If the sensor does not respond (no sensor IDs are displayed), rotate the tire one-quarter turn and
try again. If the TPMS sensor does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, switch the tire to a
known-good location and try again. If the TPMS sensor still does not respond after one full rotation
of the tire, replace the TPMS sensor.
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18. When prompted, go to the right rear wheel, then select the Enter button.
19. The TPMS sensor ID learning procedure goes through the same steps as the left front wheel
(see steps 12 thru 15). When the timer starts (the blue bar appears), point and hold the TPMS
sensor tool 10 to 20 inches from the right rear wheel valve stem. Press and hold the large transmit
button for up to 1 minute. The button should flash red. The TPMS sensor tool sends a signal to the
TPMS sensor to turn on and broadcast the TPMS sensor ID to the TPMS control unit.
NOTE:
^ If the sensor IDs appear without the TPMS sensor tool button being pushed, a TPMS sensor is
transmitting. Select the Exit button, wait 5 minutes for the sensor to go to sleep, then follow the
on-screen prompts.
^ If the sensor does not respond (no sensor IDs are displayed), rotate the tire one-quarter turn and
try again. If the TPMS sensor does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, switch the tire to a
known-good location and try again. If the TPMS sensor still does not respond after one full rotation
of the tire, replace the TPMS sensor.
20. When prompted, go to the right front wheel, then select the Enter button.
21. The TPMS sensor ID learning procedure goes through the same steps as the left front wheel
(see steps 12 thru 15). When the timer starts (the blue bar appears), point and hold the TPMS
sensor tool 10 to 20 inches from the right front wheel valve stem. Press and hold the large transmit
button for up to 1 minute. The button should flash red. The TPMS sensor tool sends a signal to the
TPMS sensor to turn on and broadcast the TPMS sensor ID to the TPMS control unit.
NOTE:
^ If the sensor IDs appear without the TPMS sensor tool button being pushed, a TPMS sensor is
transmitting. Select the Exit button, wait 5 minutes for the sensor to go to sleep, then follow the
on-screen prompts.
^ If the sensor does not respond (no sensor IDs are displayed), rotate the tire one-quarter turn and
try again. If the TPMS sensor does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, switch the tire to a
known-good location and try again. If the TPMS sensor still does not respond after one full rotation
of the tire, replace the TPMS sensor.
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22. The sensor ID learning procedure is complete. Select the Enter button to continue to register
the TPMS sensor IDs in the TPMS unit.
23. The low tire pressure indicator is flashing and requires road-testing the vehicle. On the TPMS
Sensor ID Learning screen, select the Enter button.
24. Drive the vehicle for 2 minutes above 30 mph, or until the low tire pressure indicator goes off.
Once the indicator goes off, stop the vehicle.
25. In the Mode Menu, select the Data List, and then select the Enter button. Check the tire
pressure at all four tires to confirm that the TPMS control unit is reading the correct tire pressures.
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26. Return to the Mode Menu, select DTCs, then select the Enter button.
Disclaimer
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Tire Monitoring System > Tire Pressure Sensor >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tire Monitor System - Usage of TPMS Sensor Tools
Tire Pressure Sensor: Technical Service Bulletins Tire Monitor System - Usage of TPMS Sensor
Tools
06-072
(Supersedes 06-072, dated January 5, 2007, to update the information marked by the black bars
and asterisks)
*VEHICLES AFFECTED
INTRODUCTION
Beginning with some 2007 models, Honda is using a second type of TPMS (tire pressure
monitoring system) that does not use initiators like the 2006 and earlier
TPMS.
^ Are mounted on the inside of the rim, connected to the valve stem.
^ Use a wireless transmission to send tire pressure and temperature information to the TPMS unit.
^ Use non-replaceable batteries. To save battery life, the sensors turn on only when the vehicle is
being used.
*The first type of TPMS (all vehicles through 2006) uses initiators mounted above each wheel.
When you turn the ignition switch to ON (II), the initiators send out a low frequency signal to turn on
the TPMS sensors. The initiator, in conjunction with the TPMS control unit, determines the tire
location. For example, if the right front tire is low on air, the customer sees the low tire pressure
indicator and an indiction that the right front tire is low on pressure. The initiator-type TPMS, or
location-type TPMS (in the HDS), is used on the 2005-08 Pilot, the 2006-08 Ridgeline, and the
2005-08 Odyssey Touring models.*
The new TPMS does not use initiators. The TPMS sensors have a built-in acceleration sensor that
turns on the TPMS sensors when the vehicle speed reaches about 25 mph. Without an initiator, the
TPMS control unit cannot determine tire location. For example, if the right front tire is low on air, the
customer sees only the low pressure indicator and must check all four tires to find the problem tire.
During diagnosis, the TPMS control unit provides a code for each tire.
NOTE:
^ During diagnosis, the TPMS control unit gives a tire number, but you need to do the sensor
position check to find the location of the tire number.
^ Use with HDS software version 2.011.010 or later. The initiator-less TPMS, or no location-type
TPMS, is used on vehicles affected by this bulletin.
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A TPMS sensor tool is used for troubleshooting and replacing the TPMS sensors. See TOOL
DESCRIPTION for more information.
None.
TOOL INFORMATION
TOOL DESCRIPTION
The TPMS sensor tool is a wireless tool that is used with the HDS for troubleshooting (sensor
position check) and for replacing TPMS sensors or the control unit (sensor ID learning).
General use:
^ Always make sure the TPMS sensor tool is set to low power unless otherwise instructed.
*^ Make sure there are no vehicles or other wheels with TPMS sensors within 10 feet of the vehicle
you are working on.
^ Make sure the batteries are in good condition and secure in the case. Refer to ServiceNews
article A07050D, Keep Those TPMS Sensor Tool Batteries From Popping Loose, for more
information.*
^ Turn on the TPMS sensor tool by following the HDS instructions. There are two different
wavelengths used, and there are two ways to turn on the TPMS sensor tool. If the TPMS sensor
tool is not turned on correctly, you won't be able to troubleshoot the vehicle or do the sensor ID
learning procedure.
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^ Turn off the TPMS sensor tool by pressing and holding the small button as shown until the green
light in the button turns off. The tool will also turn off after 5 minutes of inactivity.
NOTE:
Offset your finger, or use just your nail to push the buttons, so you can see the light in the buttons.
Two AC adapters are included in the TPMS sensor tool kit. The 900 AC adapter is for the battery
charger. Use the straight AC adapter to power the TPMS sensor tool when charged batteries are
not available.
NOTE:
^ The AC adapter does not charge the batteries in the TPMS sensor tool.
^ Remove the batteries from the TPMS sensor tool when using the AC adapter.
There are two ways to charge the batteries. The method to use depends on the batteries' state of
charge. For brand new or fully discharged batteries:
1. Connect the AC adapter to the charger (make sure you use the AC adapter with the 90° bend).
2. Insert the batteries into the charger. Make sure you note the polarity (direction) of the batteries.
3. Plug the charger into a power outlet. The LEDs turn red, and quick charging begins.
NOTE:
^ If the LEDs do not come on, check that the batteries are properly installed. If the LEDs still do not
come on, replace the batteries.
^ If you press the red button while the batteries are charging, the battery discharge mode begins.
Press the red button again within 30 seconds, and the charger switches back to its quick charge
mode.
^ When the LEDs turn green, the batteries are charged, and the battery charger automatically
switches to trickle charge mode.
^ Remove the batteries from the charger when it is not plugged in.
For charging batteries when you don't know the state of charge:
1. Connect the AC adapter to the charger (make sure you use the AC adapter with the 90° bend).
2. Insert the batteries into the charger. Make sure you note the polarity (direction) of the batteries.
4. Press the red button once to start the discharge mode. The LEDs blink red.
NOTE:
^ If the LEDs do not come on, check that the batteries are properly installed. If the LEDs still do not
come on, replace the batteries.
^ If you press the red button a second time within 30 seconds, the battery quick charge mode
begins.
^ Once the batteries are discharged, the LEDs turn solid red and the battery quick charge mode
begins.
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^ When the LEDs turn green, the batteries are charged, and the battery charger automatically
switches to trickle charge mode.
^ Remove the batteries from the charger when it is not plugged in.
When the TPMS sets a DTC, it refers to Tire 1, Tire 2, Tire 3, or Tire 4. In the service manual, the
tire number is the sensor number. For example, Tire 2 is sensor 2.
However, the tire number is not the tire position. To diagnose or repair the vehicle, do the sensor
position check to find the location of the problem tire (or sensor) on the vehicle.
6. In the Select Mode menu, select Honda Systems, then select the Enter button.
7. In the System Selection Menu, select TPMS, then select the Enter button.
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8. In the Mode menu, select Functional Tests, then select the Enter button.
9. In the Functional Test menu, select Sensor Position Check, then select the Enter button.
*10. On the Sensor Position Check screen, turn on the TPMS sensor tool by following the
on-screen instructions. (The Accord is shown on the sample
screen.)*
NOTE:
Each model is different. Turning on the TPMS sensor tool incorrectly could lead to incorrect
diagnosis and repair.
Once the TPMS sensor tool is turned on, select the YES button.
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11. Follow the instructions on the Sensor Position Check screen. When prompted, go to the left
front wheel, then select the Enter button.
12. Wait about 5 seconds, and the Sensor Position Check screen changes to an operation
progress bar.
* NOTE:
^ Wait for the timer to start. When the blue bar appears, use the TPMS sensor tool.*
^ If the sensor IDs appear without the TPMS sensor tool button being pushed, a TPMS sensor is
transmitting. Select the Exit button, wait 5 minutes for the sensor to go to sleep, then follow the
on-screen prompts.
13. Point and hold the TPMS sensor tool 10 to 20 inches from the left front wheel valve stem. Press
and hold the large transmit button for up to 1 minute. The button should flash red. The TPMS
sensor tool sends a signal to the TPMS sensor to turn on and broadcast the TPMS sensor ID to the
TPMS control unit.
14. Watch for the TPMS sensor IDs to appear on the HDS screen. The TPMS control unit must
read the sensor ID five times to complete the learning
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procedure.
NOTE:
15. The TPMS sensor ID learning changes to the following screen once the procedure is complete.
Select the Enter button.
NOTE:
If the sensor does not respond (no sensor IDs are displayed), rotate the tire one-quarter turn and
try again. If the TPMS sensor does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, switch the tire to a
known-good location and try again. If the TPMS sensor still does not respond after one full rotation
of the tire, replace the TPMS sensor.
16. When prompted, go to the left rear wheel, then select the Enter button.
17. The TPMS sensor ID learning procedure goes through the same steps as the left front wheel
(see steps 12 thru 15). When the timer starts (the blue bar appears), point and hold the TPMS
sensor tool 10 to 20 inches from the left rear wheel valve stem. Press and hold the large transmit
button for up to 1 minute. The button should flash red. The TPMS sensor tool sends a signal to the
TPMS sensor to turn on and broadcast the TPMS sensor
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ID to the TPMS control unit.
NOTE:
^ If the sensor IDs appear without the TPMS sensor tool button being pushed, a TPMS sensor is
transmitting. Select the Exit button, wait 5 minutes for the sensors to go to sleep, then follow the
on-screen prompts.
^ If the sensor does not respond (no sensor IDs are displayed), rotate the tire one-quarter turn and
try again. If the TPMS sensor does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, switch the tire to a
known-good location and try again. If the TPMS sensor still does not respond after one full rotation
of the tire, replace the TPMS sensor.
18. When prompted, go to the right rear wheel, then select the Enter button.
19. The TPMS sensor ID learning procedure goes through the same steps as the left front wheel
(see steps 12 thru 15). When the timer starts (the blue bar appears), point and hold the TPMS
sensor tool 10 to 20 inches from the right rear wheel valve stem. Press and hold the large transmit
button for up to 1 minute. The button should flash red. The TPMS sensor tool sends a signal to the
TPMS sensor to turn on and broadcast the TPMS sensor ID to the TPMS control unit.
NOTE:
^ If the sensor IDs appear without the TPMS sensor tool button being pushed, a TPMS sensor is
transmitting. Select the Exit button, wait 5 minutes for the sensors to go to sleep, then follow the
on-screen prompts.
^ If the sensor does not respond (no sensor IDs are displayed), rotate the tire one-quarter turn and
try again. If the TPMS sensor does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, switch the tire to a
known-good location and try again. If the TPMS sensor still does not respond after one full rotation
of the tire, replace the TPMS sensor.
20. When prompted, go to the right front wheel, then select the Enter button.
21. The TPMS sensor ID learning procedure goes through the same steps as the left front wheel
(see steps 12 thru 15). When the timer starts (the blue bar appears), point and hold the TPMS
sensor tool 10 to 20 inches from the right front wheel valve stem. Press and hold the large transmit
button for up to 1 minute. The button should flash red. The TPMS sensor tool sends a signal to the
TPMS sensor to turn on and broadcast the TPMS
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NOTE:
^ If the sensor IDs appear without the TPMS sensor tool button being pushed, a TPMS sensor is
transmitting. Select the Exit button, wait 5 minutes for the sensors to go to sleep, then follow the
on-screen prompts.
^ If the sensor does not respond (no sensor IDs are displayed), rotate the tire one-quarter turn and
try again. If the TPMS sensor does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, switch the tire to a
known-good location and try again. If the TPMS sensor still does not respond after one full rotation
of the tire, replace the TPMS sensor.
22. The sensor position check is complete. Using the DTC(s) and the information on the Sensor
Position Check screen, locate the problem tire.
The following table and screen are examples only.
If the vehicle has DTC 22-1,this means that the problem is in tire 2 (sensor 2).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Tire Monitoring System > Tire Pressure Sensor >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tire Monitor System - Usage of TPMS Sensor Tools > Page 1670
You must refer to the Sensor Position Check screen to see what location tire 2 is in. Do not
assume it is in position 2 (left rear tire).
According to the Sensor Position Check screen tire 2 is in position 1, the left front tire.
SENSOR ID LEARNING
NOTE:
Even if you replace only one sensor, the Sensor ID Learning procedure must be done to all four
wheels.
5. The VIN information appears automatically, but you must enter the mileage, and select the Enter
button.
6. In the Select Mode menu, select Honda Systems, and select the Enter button.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Tire Monitoring System > Tire Pressure Sensor >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tire Monitor System - Usage of TPMS Sensor Tools > Page 1672
7. In the System Selection Menu, select TPMS, then select the Enter button.
8. In the Mode Menu, select Sensor ID Learning, then select the Enter button.
NOTE:
Make sure there are no other vehicles or other wheels with TPMS sensors within 10 feet of the
vehicle you are working on.
10. On the TPMS Sensor ID Learning screen, turn on the TPMS sensor tool by following the
on-screen instructions. The Accord is shown on the sample screen.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Tire Monitoring System > Tire Pressure Sensor >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tire Monitor System - Usage of TPMS Sensor Tools > Page 1673
NOTE:
Each model is different. Turning on the TPMS sensor tool incorrectly could lead to incorrect
diagnosis and repair.
Once the TPMS sensor tool is turned on, select the YES button.
11. Follow the instructions on the TPMS Sensor ID Learning screen. When prompted, go to the left
front wheel, then select the Enter button.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Tire Monitoring System > Tire Pressure Sensor >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tire Monitor System - Usage of TPMS Sensor Tools > Page 1674
12. Wait about 5 seconds, and the TPMS Sensor ID Learning screen should change to an
operation progress bar.
NOTE:
^ Wait for the timer to start. When you see the blue bar, use the TPMS sensor tool.
^ If the sensor IDs appear without the TPMS sensor tool button being pushed, a TPMS sensor is
transmitting. Select the Exit button, wait 5 minutes for the sensor to go to sleep, then follow the
on-screen prompts.
13. Point and hold the TPMS sensor tool 10 to 20 inches from the left front wheel valve stem. Press
and hold the large transmit button for up to 1 minute. The button should flash red. The TPMS
sensor tool sends a signal to the TPMS sensor to turn on and broadcast the TPMS sensor ID to the
TPMS control unit.
14. Watch for the TPMS sensor IDs to appear on the HDS screen The TPMS control unit must read
the sensor ID five times to complete the learning procedure.
NOTE:
15. The TPMS sensor ID learning changes to the following screen once the procedure is complete.
Select the Enter button.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Tire Monitoring System > Tire Pressure Sensor >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tire Monitor System - Usage of TPMS Sensor Tools > Page 1675
NOTE:
If the sensor does not respond (no sensor IDs are displayed), rotate the tire one-quarter turn and
try again. If the TPMS sensor does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, switch the tire to a
known-good location and try again. If the TPMS sensor still does not respond after one full rotation
of the tire, replace the TPMS sensor.
16. When prompted, go to the left rear wheel, then select the Enter button.
17. The TPMS sensor ID learning procedure goes through the same steps as the left front wheel
(see steps 12 thru 15). When the timer starts (the blue bar appears), point and hold the TPMS
sensor tool 10 to 20 inches from the left rear wheel valve stem. Press and hold the large transmit
button for up to 1 minute. The button should flash red. The TPMS sensor tool sends a signal to the
TPMS sensor to turn on and broadcast the TPMS sensor ID to the TPMS control unit.
NOTE:
^ If the sensor IDs appear without the TPMS sensor tool button being pushed, a TPMS sensor is
transmitting. Select the Exit button, wait 5 minutes for the sensor to go to sleep, then follow the
on-screen prompts.
^ If the sensor does not respond (no sensor IDs are displayed), rotate the tire one-quarter turn and
try again. If the TPMS sensor does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, switch the tire to a
known-good location and try again. If the TPMS sensor still does not respond after one full rotation
of the tire, replace the TPMS sensor.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Tire Monitoring System > Tire Pressure Sensor >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tire Monitor System - Usage of TPMS Sensor Tools > Page 1676
18. When prompted, go to the right rear wheel, then select the Enter button.
19. The TPMS sensor ID learning procedure goes through the same steps as the left front wheel
(see steps 12 thru 15). When the timer starts (the blue bar appears), point and hold the TPMS
sensor tool 10 to 20 inches from the right rear wheel valve stem. Press and hold the large transmit
button for up to 1 minute. The button should flash red. The TPMS sensor tool sends a signal to the
TPMS sensor to turn on and broadcast the TPMS sensor ID to the TPMS control unit.
NOTE:
^ If the sensor IDs appear without the TPMS sensor tool button being pushed, a TPMS sensor is
transmitting. Select the Exit button, wait 5 minutes for the sensor to go to sleep, then follow the
on-screen prompts.
^ If the sensor does not respond (no sensor IDs are displayed), rotate the tire one-quarter turn and
try again. If the TPMS sensor does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, switch the tire to a
known-good location and try again. If the TPMS sensor still does not respond after one full rotation
of the tire, replace the TPMS sensor.
20. When prompted, go to the right front wheel, then select the Enter button.
21. The TPMS sensor ID learning procedure goes through the same steps as the left front wheel
(see steps 12 thru 15). When the timer starts (the blue bar appears), point and hold the TPMS
sensor tool 10 to 20 inches from the right front wheel valve stem. Press and hold the large transmit
button for up to 1 minute. The button should flash red. The TPMS sensor tool sends a signal to the
TPMS sensor to turn on and broadcast the TPMS sensor ID to the TPMS control unit.
NOTE:
^ If the sensor IDs appear without the TPMS sensor tool button being pushed, a TPMS sensor is
transmitting. Select the Exit button, wait 5 minutes for the sensor to go to sleep, then follow the
on-screen prompts.
^ If the sensor does not respond (no sensor IDs are displayed), rotate the tire one-quarter turn and
try again. If the TPMS sensor does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, switch the tire to a
known-good location and try again. If the TPMS sensor still does not respond after one full rotation
of the tire, replace the TPMS sensor.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Tire Monitoring System > Tire Pressure Sensor >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tire Monitor System - Usage of TPMS Sensor Tools > Page 1677
22. The sensor ID learning procedure is complete. Select the Enter button to continue to register
the TPMS sensor IDs in the TPMS unit.
23. The low tire pressure indicator is flashing and requires road-testing the vehicle. On the TPMS
Sensor ID Learning screen, select the Enter button.
24. Drive the vehicle for 2 minutes above 30 mph, or until the low tire pressure indicator goes off.
Once the indicator goes off, stop the vehicle.
25. In the Mode Menu, select the Data List, and then select the Enter button. Check the tire
pressure at all four tires to confirm that the TPMS control unit is reading the correct tire pressures.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Tire Monitoring System > Tire Pressure Sensor >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tire Monitor System - Usage of TPMS Sensor Tools > Page 1678
26. Return to the Mode Menu, select DTCs, then select the Enter button.
Disclaimer
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Tire Monitoring System > Tire Pressure Sensor >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 1679
Tire Pressure Sensor: Testing and Inspection Memorizing the Tire Pressure Sensor ID
TPMS sensor initializer tool AKS0620006 Available through the American Honda Tool and
Equipment Program; call 1-888-424-6857
All four tire pressure sensor IDs must be memorized to the TPMS control unit whenever you do any
of these actions:
NOTE: ^
To ensure the control unit memorizes the correct ID, the vehicle with the new sensor must be at
least 10 ft (3 m) away from other vehicles that have tire pressure sensors.
1. With the ignition switch at LOCK (0) wait 5 minutes or more for the TPMS sensors to go to sleep
mode. Connect the HDS to the data link
connector (DLC) (A) located under the driver's side of the dashboard.
2. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 3. Make sure the HDS communicates with the vehicle and the
TPMS control unit. If it doesn't, troubleshoot the DLC circuit. 4. Select Sensor ID Learning from the
mode menu on the HDS. 5. Follow HDS screen prompts to turn on the TPMS sensor initializer tool
(A). Verify the power switch (B) is in the "Low" position.
6. Hold the TPMS sensor initializer tool near one wheel, memorize the pressure sensor ID by
following the screen prompts on the HDS.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Tire Monitoring System > Tire Pressure Sensor >
Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Memorizing the Tire Pressure Sensor ID > Page 1682
7. Repeat step 6 for each wheel until all four sensor IDs are memorized. When all four IDs are
memorized, the low tire pressure indicator blinks. 8. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). 9.
Disconnect the HDS from the DLC.
10. Test-drive the vehicle at 28 mph (45 km/h) or more for at least 1 minute. 11. Make sure the low
tire pressure indicator does not blink. 12. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). 13. Reduce the
pressure in one tire until it is less than the appropriate specification. 14. Turn the ignition switch to
ON (II). 15. Test-drive the vehicle at 28 mph (45 km/h) or more for at least 1 minute. 16. Make sure
the low tire pressure indicator turns on, then inflate the tire. 17. Repeat step 12 to 16 for all the
other tires. 18. Clear any DTCs with the HDS.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Tire Monitoring System > Tire Pressure Sensor >
Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Memorizing the Tire Pressure Sensor ID > Page 1683
Tire Pressure Sensor: Testing and Inspection Tire Pressure Sensor Location
NOTE: This procedure locates where the tire pressure sensors number 1, 2, 3, 4 are mounted,
when activated by the TPMS sensor initializer tool.
^ Memorizing tire pressure sensor IDs (including replacing the TPMS control unit, or the tire
pressure sensors).
^ Wheel rotation.
1. With the ignition switch at LOCK (0), connect the HDS to the data link connector (DLC (A)
located under the driver's side of the dashboard.
2. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 3. Make sure the HDS communicates with the vehicle and the
TPMS control unit. If it doesn't, troubleshoot the DLC circuit. 4. Select Function Test from the mode
menu, then select Sensor Position Check on the HDS. 5. Follow HDS screen prompts to turn on
the TPMS sensor initializer tool (A). Verify the power switch (B) is in the "Low" position.
6. Follow the prompts on the HDS to activate the tire pressure sensors using the TPMS sensor
initializer tool. Start with the left-front (LF) wheel.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Tire Monitoring System > Tire Pressure Sensor >
Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Memorizing the Tire Pressure Sensor ID > Page 1684
7. Check the HDS screen, and note the active sensor reception order of the tire pressure sensor 1,
2, 3, 4.
NOTE: If the sensor does not respond to the TPMS initializer, rotate the tire 1/4 turn and retry. If
the sensor still does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, swap the tire to a known-good
location and retry. If the sensor still does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, replace the
tire pressure sensor.
8. Note the sensor location for reference. 9. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Tire Monitoring System > Tire Pressure Sensor >
Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Page 1685
Tire Pressure Sensor: Service and Repair
Removal
1. Raise the vehicle, and support it with safety stands in the proper locations. 2. Remove the wheel
with the faulty sensor. 3. Remove the tire valve stem cap and the valve stem core, and let the tire
deflate. 4. Remove any balance weights, and then break the bead loose from the wheel with a
commercially available tire changer (A).
5. Position the wheel so the tire machine (A) and tire iron (B) are next to the valve stem (C) and will
move away from it when the machine starts.
6. Remove the valve stem nut (A) and washer (B), then remove the tire pressure sensor with valve
stem (C) from the wheel.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Tire Monitoring System > Tire Pressure Sensor >
Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Page 1686
7. Remove and discard the valve stem grommet (A) from the tire pressure sensor (B).
NOTE: ^
The valve stem grommet might stay in the wheel; make sure you remove it.
^ Always use a new valve stem grommet whenever the tire pressure sensor has been removed
from the wheel. When only removing a tire from the wheel, replace the valve stem grommet if it is
possible.
Installation
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Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Page 1687
1. Before installing the tire pressure sensor, clean the mating surfaces on the sensor and the
wheel. 2. Install the tire pressure sensor (A) and the washer (B) to the wheel (C), and tighten the
valve stem nut (D) finger tight. Make sure the pressure
3. Tighten the valve stem nut to the specified torque while holding the tire pressure sensor.
NOTE: ^
Do not use air or electric impact tools to tighten a valve stem nut.
^ Do not twist the tire pressure sensor to adjust its position with the wheel, as this will damage or
deform the valve stem grommet.
4. Lube the tire bead sparingly, and position the wheel so the tire machine (A) and tire iron (B) are
next to the valve stem (C) and will move away
from it when the machine starts. Then install the tire onto the wheel.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
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Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Page 1688
5. With a dry air source, inflate the tire to 300 kPa (3.1 kgf/cm2, 44 psi) to seat the tire bead to the
rim, then adjust the tire pressure, then install the
NOTE: Make sure the tire bead is seated on both sides of the rim uniformly.
6. Check and adjust the wheel balance, then install the wheels on the vehicle. 7. Remove the jack
stands, and lower the vehicle. Torque the wheel nuts to specifications. 8. Connect the HDS, and
memorize the pressure sensor IDs using the TPMS sensor initializer tool.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Wheels > Component Information > Testing and Inspection
Wheels: Testing and Inspection
1. Raise the vehicle, and support it with safety stands in the proper locations. 2. Check for bent or
deformed wheels. 3. Set up the dial gauge as shown, and measure the axial runout by turning the
wheel.
4. Reset the dial gauge to the position shown, and measure the radial runout.
5. If the wheel runout is not within the specification, check the wheel bearing end play, and make
sure the mating surfaces on the brake disc or the
6. If the bearing end play is within the specification but the wheel runout is more than the service
limit, replace the wheel.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Wheel Bearing > Component Information > Testing and
Inspection
1. Raise the vehicle, and support it with safety stands in the proper locations. 2. Remove the
wheels. 3. Install suitable flat washers (A) and the wheel nuts. Tighten the nuts to the specified
torque to hold the brake disc or the, brake drum securely
4. Attach the dial gauge. Place the dial gauge against the hub flange. 5. Measure the bearing end
play by moving the brake disc or the brake drum inward and outward.
Front/Rear:
6. If the bearing end play measurement is more than the standard, replace the wheel bearing or the
hub bearing unit.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Wheel Bearing > Component Information > Service and
Repair > Front Suspension
Knucle/Hub/Wheel Bearing
^ Attachment, 78 x 90 mm 07GAD-SD40101
^ Attachment, 62 x 68 mm 07746-0010500
Knuckle/Hub Replacement
1. Raise the front of the vehicle, and support it with safety stands in the proper locations.
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Repair > Front Suspension > Page 1697
2. Remove the wheel nuts (A) and the front wheel.
3. Remove the brake hose mounting bolt (A) from the damper.
4. Remove the brake caliper bracket mounting bolts (B), then remove the caliper assembly (C) from
the knuckle. To prevent damage to the caliper
assembly or brake hose, use a short piece of wire to hang the caliper assembly from the
undercarriage. Do not twist the brake hose excessively.
5. Remove the wheel speed sensor (A) from the knuckle (B). Do not disconnect the wheel speed
sensor connector.
6. Raise the stake (A), then remove the spindle nut (B).
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Repair > Front Suspension > Page 1698
7. Remove the brake disc. 8. Check the front hub for damage and cracks. 9. Remove the cotter pin
(A) from the tie-rod end ball joint, then remove the nut (B).
10. Disconnect the tie-rod end ball joint from the knuckle using the ball joint remover. 11. Remove
the flange bolt and the self-locking nuts from the lower arm (A).
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Repair > Front Suspension > Page 1699
12. Disconnect the lower ball joint (E) from the lower arm. 13. Remove the damper pinch bolts (A)
and the self locking nuts (B) from the damper.
14. Remove the driveshaft outboard joint (C) from the knuckle (D) by tapping the driveshaft end (E)
with a soft face hammer while drawing the hub
NOTE: ^
Do not pull the driveshaft end outward. The driveshaft inboard joint may come apart.
^ During installation, apply grease to the mating surfaces of the wheel bearing and driveshaft
outboard joint.
15. Remove the lock pin (A) from the lower ball joint, then remove the castle nut (B).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
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Repair > Front Suspension > Page 1700
16. Disconnect the lower ball joint (C) from the knuckle using the ball joint thread protector and the
ball joint remover. 17. Install the knuckle/hub in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
^ First install all the components, and lightly tighten the bolts and nuts, then raise the suspension to
load it with the vehicle's weight before fully tightening to the specified torque values.
^ Be careful not to damage the ball joint boot when connecting the knuckle.
^ Before connecting the lower ball joint to the knuckle, degrease the threaded section and tapered
portion of the ball joint pin, the ball joint connecting hole, the threaded section and mating surfaces
of the castle nut.
^ Torque the castle nut to the lower torque specification, then tighten it only far enough to align the
slot with the ball joint pin hole. Do not align the castle nut by loosening it.
^ Before installing the spindle nut, apply a small amount of engine oil to the seating surface of the
nut. After tightening, use a drift to stake the spindle nut shoulder against the driveshaft.
^ Before installing the brake disc, clean the mating surfaces of the front hub and the inside of the
brake disc.
^ Before installing the wheel, clean the mating surfaces of the brake disc and the inside of the
wheel.
1. Separate the hub (A) from the knuckle (B) using the hub dis/assembly tool and a hydraulic press.
Hold the knuckle with the attachment (C) of the
hydraulic press or equivalent tool. Be careful not to deform the splash guard (D). Hold onto the hub
to keep it from failing when pressed clear.
2. Press the wheel bearing inner race (A) off of the hub (B) using the hub dis/assembly tool, a
commercially available bearing separator (C), and a
press.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Wheel Bearing > Component Information > Service and
Repair > Front Suspension > Page 1701
3. Remove the splash guard (A) and the snap ring (B) from the knuckle (C).
4. Press the wheel bearing (A) out of the knuckle (B) using the attachment, the driver, and a press.
5. Wash the knuckle and hub thoroughly in high flash point solvent before reassembly. 6. Press a
new wheel bearing (A) into the knuckle. (B) using the old bearing (C), a steel plate (D), the
attachment, the support base, and a press.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Wheel Bearing > Component Information > Service and
Repair > Front Suspension > Page 1702
7. Install the snap ring (A) securely in the knuckle (B).
8. Install the splash guard (C), and tighten the screws (D) to the specified torque value. 9. Install
the hub (A) onto the knuckle (B) using the attachment, the driver, the support base, and a hydraulic
press. Be careful not to distort the
1. Raise the rear of the vehicle, and support it with safety stands in the proper locations. 2. Remove
the wheel nuts (A) and the rear wheel.
3. Remove the brake hose mounting bolt (A) from the bracket.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Wheel Bearing > Component Information > Service and
Repair > Front Suspension > Page 1706
4. Remove the brake caliper bracket mounting bolts (B), then remove the caliper assembly (C) from
the knuckle. To prevent damage to the caliper
assembly or brake hose, use a short piece of wire to hang the caliper assembly from the
undercarriage. Do not twist the brake hose excessively.
6. Remove the brake disc. 7. Remove the hub bearing unit (A) and the O-ring (B).
8. Check the hub bearing unit for damage and cracks. 9. Install the hub bearing unit in the reverse
order of removal, and note these items:
^ Before installing the brake disc, clean the mating surfaces of the hub bearing unit and the inside
of the brake disc.
^ Before installing the wheel, clean the mating surfaces of the brake disc and the inside of the
wheel.
1. Raise the rear of the vehicle, and support it with safety stands in the proper locations. 2. Remove
the wheel nuts (A) and the rear wheel.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Wheel Bearing > Component Information > Service and
Repair > Front Suspension > Page 1707
3. Release the parking brake, and remove the brake drum. 4. Remove the hub bearing unit (A) and
the O-ring (B).
5. Check the hub bearing unit for damage and cracks. 6. Install the hub bearing Unit in the reverse
order of removal, and note these items:
^ Before installing the brake drum, clean the mating surfaces of the hub bearing unit and the inside
of the brake drum.
^ Before installing the wheel, clean the mating surfaces of the brake drum and the inside of the
wheel.
1. Remove the hub bearing unit. 2. Remove the splash guard (A).
3. Remove the wheel speed sensor (A), and the brake hose mounting bracket (B) from the knuckle
(C). Do not disconnect the wheel speed sensor
connector.
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Repair > Front Suspension > Page 1708
4. Remove the parking brake cable mounting bolt (E) from the knuckle. 5. Place a floor jack under
the trailing arm to support it.
NOTE: Do not place the jack against the plate section of the lower arm. Be careful not to damage
any suspension components.
6. Remove the upper arm mounting bolt (A), and disconnect the upper arm (B) from the knuckle.
7. Remove the rear knuckle upper bracket (C). 8. Mark the cam positions of the adjusting bolt (A)
and the adjusting cam plate (B), then remove the self locking nut (C), the adjusting cam plate, and
10. Install the knuckle in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
^ First install all the components, and lightly tighten the bolts and nuts, then raise the suspension to
load it with the vehicle's weight before fully tightening to the specified torque values.
^ Align the cam positions of the adjusting bolt and the adjusting cam plate with the marked
positions when tightening.
^ Before installing the wheel, clean the mating surfaces of the brake disc and the inside of the
wheel.
1. Remove the hub bearing unit. 2. Disconnect the brake line (A) from the wheel cylinder (B).
Remove the backing plate (C) with brake shoes assembly from the knuckle.
3. Remove the wheel speed sensor (A), and the brake hose mounting bracket (B) from the knuckle
(C). Do not disconnect the wheel speed sensor
connector.
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Repair > Front Suspension > Page 1710
4. Place a floor jack under the trailing arm to support it.
NOTE: Do not place the jack against the plate section of the lower arm. Be careful not to damage
any suspension components,
5. Remove the upper arm mounting bolt (A), and disconnect the upper arm (B) from the knuckle.
6. Remove the rear knuckle upper bracket (C). 7. Mark the cam positions of the adjusting bolt W
and the adjusting cam plate (B), then remove the self locking nut (C), the adjusting cam plate, and
9. Install the knuckle in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
^ First install all the components, and lightly tighten the bolts and nuts, then raise the suspension to
load it with the vehicle's weight before fully tightening to the specified torque values.
^ Align the cam positions of the adjusting bolt and the adjusting cam plate with the marked-,
positions when tightening.
^ Before installing the wheel, clean the mating surfaces of the brake drum and the inside of the
wheel.
^ Fill the master cylinder reservoir to the MAX (upper) level line, and bleed the brake system.
Check for a leak at the brake hose/line joint, and retighten it if necessary.
Spindle Nut
Knucle/Hub/Wheel Bearing
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Wheel Fastener > Component Information > Specifications
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Wheel Fastener > Component Information > Specifications
> Page 1719
Wheel Fastener: Service and Repair
NOTICE: ^
Do not use a hammer or air or electric impact tools to remove and install the wheel bolts.
1. Raise the vehicle, and support it with safety stands in the proper locations. 2. Remove the brake
disc or the brake drum. 3. Separate the wheel bolt (A) from the hub (B) using the ball joint remover
(C), and keep the jaw (D) of ball joint remover vertical against the wheel
bolt.
4. Insert the new wheel bolt (A) into the hub (B) while aligning the splined surfaces (C) on the hub
hole with the wheel bolt. Adjust the measurement
(D) with washers (P/N 94101-12800 or equivalent) (E), then install a nut (P/N 90304-SC2-000 or
equivalent) (F) hand-tight.
5. Tighten the nut until the wheel bolt is drawn fully into the hub. Do not exceed the maximum
torque limit. Make sure there is no gap (G) between
NOTE: ^
If you cannot tighten the wheel nut to the specified torque value when installing the wheel, replace
the front hub or the rear hub bearing unit as an assembly.
^ Before installing the wheel, clean the mating surfaces of the brake disc and the inside of the
wheel.
1. Remove the front hub. 2. Separate the wheel bolt (A) from the hub (B) using a hydraulic press.
Support the hub with hydraulic press attachments (C) or equivalent tools.
3. Insert the new wheel bolt into the hub while aligning the splined surfaces on the hub hole with
the wheel bolt.
NOTE: ^
^ Make sure the wheel bolt is installed vertically in relation to the hub disc surface.
4. Install the wheel bolt using a hydraulic press until the wheel bolt shoulder is fully seated. 5.
Install the front hub.
NOTE: If you cannot tighten the wheel nut to the specified torque value when installing the wheel,
replace the front hub as an assembly.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Towing Information > System Information > Service and Repair
Towing
If the vehicle needs to be towed, call a professional towing service. Never tow the vehicle behind
another vehicle with a rope or chain. It is very dangerous.
Emergency Towing
Flat-bed Equipment - The operator loads the vehicle on the back of a truck. This is the best way of
transporting the vehicle.
To accommodate flat-bed equipment, the vehicle is equipped with front towing hooks (A), front tie
down hook slots (B), a rear towing hook (C), and rear tie down hook slots (D).
The towing hooks can be used with a winch to pull the vehicle onto the truck, and the tie down slots
can be used to secure the vehicle to the truck.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Towing Information > System Information > Service and Repair > Page 1724
Wheel Lift Equipment - The tow truck uses two pivoting arms that go under the tires (front or rear)
and lift them off the ground. The other two wheels remain on the ground. This is an acceptable way
of towing the vehicle.
Sling-type Equipment - The tow truck uses metal cables with hooks on the ends. These hooks go
around parts of the frame or suspension, and the cables lift that end of the vehicle off the ground.
The vehicle's suspension and body can be seriously damaged if this method of towing is
attempted. This method of towing the vehicle is unacceptable.
If the vehicle cannot be transported by a flat-bed, it should be towed with the front wheels off the
ground. If the vehicle is damaged, and must be towed with the front wheels on the ground, or with
all four wheels on the ground, do this:
Manual Transmission
- Release the parking brake.
- Leave the ignition switch in the ACCESSORY (I) position so the steering wheel does not lock
- Make sure all accessories are turned off to minimize battery current draw.
Automatic Transmission
- Leave the ignition switch in the ACCESSORY (I) position so the steering wheel does not lock
- Make sure all accessories are turned off to minimize battery current draw.
It is best to tow the vehicle no farther than 50 miles (80 km), and keep the speed below 35 mph (55
km/h).
NOTICE:
- Improper towing preparation will damage the transmission. Follow the above procedure exactly. If
you cannot shift the transmission or start the engine (automatic transmission), the vehicle must be
transported on a flat-bed.
- Trying to lift or tow the vehicle by the bumpers will cause serious damage. The bumpers are not
designed to support the vehicle's weight.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Vehicle Lifting > Component Information > Service and Repair
Vehicle Lifting: Service and Repair
NOTE: If you are going to remove heavy components such as the suspension or the fuel tank from
the rear of the vehicle, first support the front of the vehicle with tall safety stands. When substantial
weight is removed from the rear of the vehicle, the center of gravity can change, causing the
vehicle to tip forward on the lift.
Vehicle Lift
1. Position the lift blocks (A) under the vehicle's front support points (B) and rear support points (C).
2. Raise the lift a few inches, and rock the vehicle gently to be sure it is firmly supported. 3. Raise
the lift to its full height, and inspect the vehicle support points for solid contact with the lift blocks.
Safety Stands
To support the vehicle on safety stands, use the same support points (B and C) as for a vehicle lift.
Always use safety stands when working on or under any vehicle that is supported only by a jack.
Floor Jack
1. When lifting the front of the vehicle, set the parking brake. When lifting the rear of the vehicle,
put the shift lever in reverse for manual
2. Block the wheels that are not being lifted. 3. Position the floor jack under the front jacking
bracket (A) or the rear jacking bracket (B). Center the jacking bracket on the jack lift platform (C),
and jack up the vehicle high enough to fit the safety stands under it.
4. Position the safety stands under the support points, and adjust them so the vehicle is level. 5.
Lower the vehicle onto the stands.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Actuators and Solenoids - Engine > Variable Valve
Timing Actuator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions
Variable Valve Timing Actuator: Diagram Information and Instructions
Circuit Schematics
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Actuators and Solenoids - Engine > Variable Valve
Timing Actuator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1735
Circuit Schematics
Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show
current flow, from power at the top of the diagram, to ground at the bottom.
Shared Circuits
Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that
connects one circuit to another, for example, is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it
pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or
component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring, check the operation of a
component it serves. If that component works, you know the shared wiring is OK.
Connectors
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Actuators and Solenoids - Engine > Variable Valve
Timing Actuator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1736
All in-line and junction connectors are numbered (C725, C416, etc.). Component connectors are
not numbered but are identified either by the name of the component if the component only has
one connector, or by a capital letter (A, B, C, etc.) if the component has more than one connector.
Below most connector numbers and component names are PHOTO and VIEW numbers. The
PHOTO number refers to a photo at Vehicle Level Locations that shows the connector's location on
the car. The VIEW number refers to an connector view at the Vehicle Level Connector Views that
shows the connector terminals, wire colors, connector cavity numbers, and other details.
The connector cavity numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector as seen
from either of the viewpoints. Except for the DLC (data link connector), disregard any numbers
molded into the connector housing.
Wires
Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the
stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number "2" next to the male
and female wire terminals at C554, for example, means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector
C554.
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the vehicle. Refer to the Power Distribution Diagram Set to get a more detailed
understanding of how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on. Individual circuit
schematics begin with a fuse. So if Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another
circuit share a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good
and power is available to the inoperative circuit.
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share the same
ground point.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Actuators and Solenoids - Engine > Variable Valve
Timing Actuator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1738
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Actuators and Solenoids - Engine > Variable Valve
Timing Actuator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1739
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Actuators and Solenoids - Engine > Variable Valve
Timing Actuator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1740
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Actuators and Solenoids - Engine > Variable Valve
Timing Actuator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1741
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Actuators and Solenoids - Engine > Variable Valve
Timing Actuator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1742
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Actuators and Solenoids - Engine > Variable Valve
Timing Actuator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1743
How to Identify Connector Terminals
Connector terminals are numbered according to the cavities they are in. The cavities are numbered
starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side or looking at the
female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the
same. All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not
the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the
connector face.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Actuators and Solenoids - Engine > Variable Valve
Timing Actuator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1744
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown above is #6.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Actuators and Solenoids - Engine > Variable Valve
Timing Actuator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1745
The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice
connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for
all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement
terminal availability.
On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged,
replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If
any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it.
Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the
wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the
terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to
make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a
factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS.
Use the tools from Pin Tool Set. First, check the connector that you are about to repair.
- If it has a secondary terminal lock, go to Connectors With a Secondary Lock. A secondary lock,
found on most connectors on some models, is an additional locking device on the connector
housing as a backup for the primary lock on the terminal.
- If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock.
All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the
secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the
connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities.
EXAMPLE A:
EXAMPLE B:
EXAMPLE C:
EXAMPLE D:
2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW
TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE E:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Actuators and Solenoids - Engine > Variable Valve
Timing Actuator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1749
1. Remove the secondary locks.
2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW
TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE F:
3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of
connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary
in size and shape.
EXAMPLE A:
EXAMPLE B:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Actuators and Solenoids - Engine > Variable Valve
Timing Actuator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1751
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE C:
EXAMPLE D:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Actuators and Solenoids - Engine > Variable Valve
Timing Actuator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1752
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE E:
EXAMPLE F:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Actuators and Solenoids - Engine > Variable Valve
Timing Actuator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1753
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE G:
1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct
replacement terminal based on the wire size range
NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part
number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available
through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures.
2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Actuators and Solenoids - Engine > Variable Valve
Timing Actuator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1754
3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the
wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from
the kit.)
NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did,
cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again.
4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the
anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown
in step 3.
6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact.
- If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool
over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the
stops make contact.
- If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully
squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Actuators and Solenoids - Engine > Variable Valve
Timing Actuator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1755
8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the following NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and
start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the
way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure
10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector.
Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too
short or when access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair.
On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged,
replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If
any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it.
1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from
Pin Tool Set.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Actuators and Solenoids - Engine > Variable Valve
Timing Actuator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1756
2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal,
then strip about half of the insulation off that piece.
This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal.
NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will
not nick or cut off any strands of wires.
3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and
same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit
onto the stripped end of the original wire.
5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the
pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more
than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at
the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the
harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make
each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail.
7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends
of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue
NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the
stripper.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Actuators and Solenoids - Engine > Variable Valve
Timing Actuator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1757
8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the
flare begins), and close the crimper handles far
enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click,
squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open.
9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the
wire all the way into the splice connector, and
squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until
the ratchet clicks again.
10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After
crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the
connector.
12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire(s), and shield them with
nonflammable material.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Actuators and Solenoids - Engine > Variable Valve
Timing Actuator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1758
13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the
gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat
evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete
when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube.
NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun.
Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the
wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size)
splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select
the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in
quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures.
Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the
Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching
connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body.
1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Actuators and Solenoids - Engine > Variable Valve
Timing Actuator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1759
2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool.
NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal
because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit.
3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal
with a replacement terminal from the appropriate
Five-Step Troubleshooting
Five-Step Troubleshooting
Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint.
Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
problem area.
Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by
tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground (certain
circuits contain a "How the Circuit Works" Diagram set). Also, trace circuits that share wiring with
the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on,
are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step
1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used
only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely
cause.
Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more
possible causes.
Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple
procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to
make tests at points that are easily accessible.
Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe
procedures.
Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire
problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure
no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur.
Test Equipment
Test Equipment
CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
1O-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up
of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to
various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is
voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital
volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is
between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM).
In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low
resistance means good continuity.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Actuators and Solenoids - Engine > Variable Valve
Timing Actuator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1760
Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a
reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is
affecting the measurement.
To order any test equipment shown, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool
numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin.
Jumper Wire
Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder
connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire
across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse.
To order any test equipment shown, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool
numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin.
Troubleshooting Precautions
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION: -
Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
- Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles.
2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part
Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place.
CAUTION: -
Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Actuators and Solenoids - Engine > Variable Valve
Timing Actuator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1761
- Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-mega
ohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that
contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
Troubleshooting Tests
Troubleshooting Tests
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt
ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest
"OHMS" range.
2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you
want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Actuators and Solenoids - Engine > Variable Valve
Timing Actuator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1762
4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or
no reading (zero), means good continuity.
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem. Circuits must be operating when checking
voltage drop.
1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts
range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage
is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM
voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Actuators and Solenoids - Engine > Variable Valve
Timing Actuator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1763
Variable Valve Timing Actuator: Electrical Diagrams
Diagram 31-0
Diagrams: Other diagrams referred to by number (See Diagram ##-#, etc.) within these diagrams
can be found at Diagrams by Number. See: Diagrams/Electrical Diagrams/Diagrams By Number
Locations: Location photographs (references to PHOTOS) referred to within these diagrams can be
found at Locations by Photo Number. See: Locations/Component Locations/Locations By Photo
Number
Connector Views: Connector terminal views (references to VIEWS) referred to within these
diagrams can be found at Connector Views by View
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Actuators and Solenoids - Engine > Variable Valve
Timing Actuator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1764
Number. See: Diagrams/Connector Views/Connector Views By View Number
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Actuators and Solenoids - Engine > Variable Valve
Timing Actuator > Component Information > Diagrams > Page 1765
VTEC System
- This mechanism improves fuel efficiency and reduces exhaust emissions at all levels of engine
speed, vehicle speed, and engine load.
- The VTEC mechanism changes the valve lift and timing by using more than one cam profile.
- The VTEC system changes the cam profile (angle) at cruising speeds. (Cam angle is changed to
obtain the desired EGR effect and reduce pumping loss).
Operation
- Oil pressure enters secondary rocker arm B from the oil passage in the intake rocker shaft. This
forces the VTEC switching piston into secondary rocker arm A against the return spring and
disengages secondary arm A from secondary arm B to stop valve actuation.
At cruise
The rocker arm oil control valve switches oil pressure to the oil passage in the intake rocker arm
shaft. Oil pressure then enters secondary rocker arm A, and it moves the VTEC switching piston in
the rocker arm.
This causes the VTEC switching piston to slide into secondary rocker arm B, locking secondary
rocker arms A and B together.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Actuators and Solenoids - Engine > Variable Valve
Timing Actuator > Component Information > Diagrams > Page 1766
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Actuators and Solenoids - Engine > Variable Valve
Timing Solenoid > Component Information > Locations
Variable Valve Timing Solenoid: Locations
1. Remove the cowl cover and under-cowl panel. 2. Disconnect the rocker arm oil control valve
connector (A) and the EOP sensor connector (B).
3. Remove the rocker arm oil control valve (C). 4. Install the parts in the reverse order of removal
with a new rocker arm oil control valve filter (D).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Compression Check > System Information >
Specifications
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Compression Check > System Information >
Specifications > Page 1776
NOTE: After this inspection, you must reset the engine control module (ECM)/powertrain control
module (PCM), otherwise the ECM/PCM will continue to stop the injectors from functioning.
1. Warm up the engine to normal operating temperature (cooling fan comes on). 2. Turn the ignition
switch to LOCK (0). 3. Connect the HDS to the data link connector (DLC). 4. Turn the ignition
switch to ON (II). 5. Make sure the HDS communicates with the vehicle and the ECM/PCM. If it
doesn't communicate, troubleshoot the DLC circuit. 6. Select PGM-FI, INSPECTION, then ALL
INJECTORS OFF function on the HDS. 7. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). 8. Remove the four
ignition coils. 9. Remove the four spark plugs.
11. Open the throttle fully, crank the engine with the starter motor and measure the compression.
13. If the compression is not within specifications, check the following items, then remeasure the
compression.
14. Remove the compression gauge from the spark plug hole. 15. Install the four spark plugs. 16.
Install the four ignition coils. 17. Select ECM/PCM reset to cancel the ALL INJECTORS OFF on the
HDS. 18. Do the ECM/PCM idle learn procedure.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Camshaft, Lifters and Push Rods > Camshaft
Gear/Sprocket > Component Information > Specifications
Camshaft Gear/Sprocket
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Camshaft, Lifters and Push Rods > Camshaft
Gear/Sprocket > Component Information > Specifications > Page 1781
Camshaft Gear/Sprocket: Service and Repair
Removal
1. Remove the cam chain. 2. Remove the rocker arm assembly. 3. Hold the camshaft with a 27 mm
open-end wrench, then loosen the bolt.
Installation
1. Install the camshaft sprocket. 2. Apply new engine oil to the threads of the camshaft sprocket
mounting bolt, and install it. Hold the camshaft with a 27 mm open-end wrench, then
Camshaft Inspection
1. Remove the camshaft sprocket. 2. Remove the rocker arm assembly. 3. Put the rocker shaft
holders on the cylinder head, then tighten the bolts, in sequence, to the specified torque.
4. Seat the camshaft by pushing it toward the rear of the cylinder head. 5. Zero the dial indicator
against the end of the camshaft. Push the camshaft back and forth, and read the end play. If the
end play is beyond the
service limit, replace the thrust cover and recheck. If it is still beyond the service limit, replace the
camshaft.
6. Remove the camshaft. 7. Wipe the camshaft clean, then inspect the lift ramps. Replace the
camshaft if any lobes are pitted, scored, or excessively worn. 8. Measure the diameter of each
camshaft journal.
out-of-round condition. ^
^ If the camshaft-to-holder clearance is beyond the service limit, and the camshaft has been
replaced, replace the cylinder head.
^ If the camshaft-to-holder clearance is beyond the service limit, and the camshaft has not been
replaced, go to step 11.
11. Check the total runout with the camshaft supported on V-blocks.
^ If the total runout of the camshaft is within the service limit, replace the cylinder head.
^ If the total runout is beyond the service limit, replace the camshaft, and recheck the oil.
clearance. If the oil clearance is still out of tolerance, replace the cylinder head.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Camshaft, Lifters and Push Rods > Camshaft,
Engine > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Page 1786
12. Measure cam lobe height.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Camshaft, Lifters and Push Rods > Camshaft,
Engine > Component Information > Service and Repair > Camshaft Removal
Camshaft Removal
1. Remove the cylinder head. 2. Remove the rocker arm assembly. 3. Remove the camshaft
sprocket. 4. Remove the camshaft position (CMP) sensor. 5. Remove the camshaft thrust cover
(A), then pull out the camshaft (B).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Camshaft, Lifters and Push Rods > Camshaft,
Engine > Component Information > Service and Repair > Camshaft Removal > Page 1789
Camshaft Installation
1. Install the camshaft (A) into the cylinder head, then install the camshaft thrust cover (B) with new
O-ring (C).
2. Install the camshaft position (CMP) sensor with a new O-ring. 3. Install the camshaft sprocket. 4.
Install the rocker arm assembly. 5. Install the cylinder head.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Camshaft, Lifters and Push Rods > Rocker Arm
Assembly > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Rocker Arm and Shaft Inspection
Rocker Arm Assembly: Testing and Inspection Rocker Arm and Shaft Inspection
1. Remove the rocker arm assembly. 2. Disassemble the rocker arm assembly. 3. Measure the
diameter of the shaft at the first rocker location.
5. Measure the inside diameter of the rocker arm, and check it for an out-of-round condition.
6. Repeat for all rockers and both shafts. If the clearance is beyond the service limit, replace the
rocker shaft and all out of service limit rocker arms.
If any intake secondary rocker arm needs replacement, replace the secondary rocker arms as an
assembly.
7. Inspect the rocker arm pistons (B). Push on them manually. If they do not move smoothly,
replace the rocker arm set.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Camshaft, Lifters and Push Rods > Rocker Arm
Assembly > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Rocker Arm and Shaft Inspection > Page 1794
8. Reassemble the rocker arm assembly. 9. Install the rocker arm assembly.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Camshaft, Lifters and Push Rods > Rocker Arm
Assembly > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Rocker Arm and Shaft Inspection > Page 1795
Rocker Arm Assembly: Testing and Inspection VTEC Rocker Arm Test
1. Start the engine, and let it run for 5 minutes, then turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). 2.
Remove the cylinder head cover. 3. Set the No. 1 piston at top dead center (TDC). 4. Move the
intake secondary rocker arm A for the No. 1 cylinder. The secondary rocker arm A should move
independently of the secondary rocker
arm B. ^
^ If the intake secondary rocker arm A does not move, remove the secondary rocker arms as an
assembly, then check that the pistons in the secondary rocker arms move smoothly. If any rocker
arm needs replacing, replace the secondary rocker arms as an assembly, then retest.
5. Repeat step 4 on the remaining intake secondary rocker arms with each piston at TDC. When all
the secondary rocker arms pass the test, go to step
6.
6. Check that the air pressure on the shop air compressor gauge indicates over 400 kPa (4.0
kgf/cm2, 57 psi). 7. Inspect the valve clearance. 8. Install a 10 x 1.0 mm adapter to the inspection
hole, then connect the air pressure regulator.
9. Loosen the valve on the regulator, and apply the specified air pressure.
10. With the specified air pressure applied, move the intake secondary rocker arm A for the No. 1
cylinder. The secondary rocker arm A and
secondary rocker arm B should move together. If the intake secondary rocker arm A does not
move, remove the secondary rocker arms as an assembly, and check that the pistons in the
secondary rocker arms move smoothly. If any rocker arm needs replacing, replace the secondary
rocker arms as an assembly, then retest.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Camshaft, Lifters and Push Rods > Rocker Arm
Assembly > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Rocker Arm and Shaft Inspection > Page 1796
11. Remove the air pressure regulator and the 10 x 1.0 mm adapter. 12. Install the cylinder head
cover.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Camshaft, Lifters and Push Rods > Rocker Arm
Assembly > Component Information > Service and Repair > Removal and Replacement
3. Remove the lost motion holder bolts. To prevent damaging the lost motion holder and rocker
shaft, loosen the bolts, in sequence, two turns at a
time.
4. Remove the lost motion holder (A) and lost motion assemblies (B).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Camshaft, Lifters and Push Rods > Rocker Arm
Assembly > Component Information > Service and Repair > Removal and Replacement > Page 1799
5. Remove the rocker arm assembly (C), then remove the oil control orifice (D).
1. If the rocker arm assembly is disassembled, reassemble the rocker arm assembly. 2. Install the
oil control orifice (A) with a new O-ring (B), then install the rocker arm assembly (C).
3. Install the lost motion assembles (D) and the lost motion holder (E). 4. Tighten each bolts two
turns at a time in sequence.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Camshaft, Lifters and Push Rods > Rocker Arm
Assembly > Component Information > Service and Repair > Removal and Replacement > Page 1800
NOTE: ^
Identify each part as it is removed so that each item can be reinstalled in its original position.
^ When removing, or installing the rocker arm assembly, do not remove the camshaft holder bolts.
The bolts will keep the holders and rocker arms on the shaft.
^ Remove the rocker shaft bolt before removing the rocker shaft from the No. 5 rocker shaft holder.
^ Prior to reassembling, clean all the parts in solvent, dry them, and apply new engine oil to any
contact points.
^ Bundle the intake secondary rocker arms with rubber bands to keep them together as a set.
^ When replacing the intake rocker arm assembly, remove the fastening hardware from the new
intake rocker arm assembly.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Camshaft, Lifters and Push Rods > Variable Valve
Timing Actuator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions
Variable Valve Timing Actuator: Diagram Information and Instructions
Circuit Schematics
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Camshaft, Lifters and Push Rods > Variable Valve
Timing Actuator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1806
Circuit Schematics
Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show
current flow, from power at the top of the diagram, to ground at the bottom.
Shared Circuits
Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that
connects one circuit to another, for example, is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it
pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or
component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring, check the operation of a
component it serves. If that component works, you know the shared wiring is OK.
Connectors
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Camshaft, Lifters and Push Rods > Variable Valve
Timing Actuator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1807
All in-line and junction connectors are numbered (C725, C416, etc.). Component connectors are
not numbered but are identified either by the name of the component if the component only has
one connector, or by a capital letter (A, B, C, etc.) if the component has more than one connector.
Below most connector numbers and component names are PHOTO and VIEW numbers. The
PHOTO number refers to a photo at Vehicle Level Locations that shows the connector's location on
the car. The VIEW number refers to an connector view at the Vehicle Level Connector Views that
shows the connector terminals, wire colors, connector cavity numbers, and other details.
The connector cavity numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector as seen
from either of the viewpoints. Except for the DLC (data link connector), disregard any numbers
molded into the connector housing.
Wires
Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the
stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number "2" next to the male
and female wire terminals at C554, for example, means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector
C554.
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the vehicle. Refer to the Power Distribution Diagram Set to get a more detailed
understanding of how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on. Individual circuit
schematics begin with a fuse. So if Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another
circuit share a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good
and power is available to the inoperative circuit.
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share the same
ground point.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Camshaft, Lifters and Push Rods > Variable Valve
Timing Actuator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1809
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Camshaft, Lifters and Push Rods > Variable Valve
Timing Actuator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1810
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Camshaft, Lifters and Push Rods > Variable Valve
Timing Actuator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1811
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Camshaft, Lifters and Push Rods > Variable Valve
Timing Actuator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1812
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Camshaft, Lifters and Push Rods > Variable Valve
Timing Actuator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1813
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Camshaft, Lifters and Push Rods > Variable Valve
Timing Actuator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1814
How to Identify Connector Terminals
Connector terminals are numbered according to the cavities they are in. The cavities are numbered
starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side or looking at the
female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the
same. All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not
the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the
connector face.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Camshaft, Lifters and Push Rods > Variable Valve
Timing Actuator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1815
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown above is #6.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Camshaft, Lifters and Push Rods > Variable Valve
Timing Actuator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1816
The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice
connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for
all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement
terminal availability.
On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged,
replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If
any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it.
Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the
wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the
terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to
make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a
factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS.
Use the tools from Pin Tool Set. First, check the connector that you are about to repair.
- If it has a secondary terminal lock, go to Connectors With a Secondary Lock. A secondary lock,
found on most connectors on some models, is an additional locking device on the connector
housing as a backup for the primary lock on the terminal.
- If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock.
All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the
secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the
connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities.
EXAMPLE A:
EXAMPLE B:
EXAMPLE C:
EXAMPLE D:
2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW
TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE E:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Camshaft, Lifters and Push Rods > Variable Valve
Timing Actuator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1820
1. Remove the secondary locks.
2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW
TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE F:
3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of
connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary
in size and shape.
EXAMPLE A:
EXAMPLE B:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Camshaft, Lifters and Push Rods > Variable Valve
Timing Actuator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1822
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE C:
EXAMPLE D:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Camshaft, Lifters and Push Rods > Variable Valve
Timing Actuator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1823
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE E:
EXAMPLE F:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Camshaft, Lifters and Push Rods > Variable Valve
Timing Actuator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1824
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE G:
1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct
replacement terminal based on the wire size range
NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part
number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available
through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures.
2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Camshaft, Lifters and Push Rods > Variable Valve
Timing Actuator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1825
3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the
wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from
the kit.)
NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did,
cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again.
4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the
anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown
in step 3.
6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact.
- If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool
over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the
stops make contact.
- If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully
squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Camshaft, Lifters and Push Rods > Variable Valve
Timing Actuator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1826
8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the following NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and
start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the
way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure
10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector.
Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too
short or when access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair.
On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged,
replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If
any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it.
1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from
Pin Tool Set.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Camshaft, Lifters and Push Rods > Variable Valve
Timing Actuator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1827
2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal,
then strip about half of the insulation off that piece.
This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal.
NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will
not nick or cut off any strands of wires.
3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and
same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit
onto the stripped end of the original wire.
5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the
pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more
than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at
the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the
harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make
each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail.
7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends
of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue
NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the
stripper.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Camshaft, Lifters and Push Rods > Variable Valve
Timing Actuator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1828
8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the
flare begins), and close the crimper handles far
enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click,
squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open.
9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the
wire all the way into the splice connector, and
squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until
the ratchet clicks again.
10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After
crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the
connector.
12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire(s), and shield them with
nonflammable material.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Camshaft, Lifters and Push Rods > Variable Valve
Timing Actuator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1829
13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the
gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat
evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete
when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube.
NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun.
Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the
wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size)
splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select
the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in
quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures.
Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the
Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching
connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body.
1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Camshaft, Lifters and Push Rods > Variable Valve
Timing Actuator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1830
2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool.
NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal
because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit.
3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal
with a replacement terminal from the appropriate
Five-Step Troubleshooting
Five-Step Troubleshooting
Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint.
Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
problem area.
Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by
tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground (certain
circuits contain a "How the Circuit Works" Diagram set). Also, trace circuits that share wiring with
the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on,
are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step
1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used
only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely
cause.
Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more
possible causes.
Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple
procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to
make tests at points that are easily accessible.
Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe
procedures.
Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire
problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure
no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur.
Test Equipment
Test Equipment
CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
1O-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up
of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to
various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is
voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital
volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is
between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM).
In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low
resistance means good continuity.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Camshaft, Lifters and Push Rods > Variable Valve
Timing Actuator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1831
Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a
reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is
affecting the measurement.
To order any test equipment shown, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool
numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin.
Jumper Wire
Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder
connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire
across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse.
To order any test equipment shown, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool
numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin.
Troubleshooting Precautions
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION: -
Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
- Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles.
2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part
Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place.
CAUTION: -
Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Camshaft, Lifters and Push Rods > Variable Valve
Timing Actuator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1832
- Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-mega
ohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that
contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
Troubleshooting Tests
Troubleshooting Tests
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt
ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest
"OHMS" range.
2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you
want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Camshaft, Lifters and Push Rods > Variable Valve
Timing Actuator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1833
4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or
no reading (zero), means good continuity.
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem. Circuits must be operating when checking
voltage drop.
1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts
range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage
is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM
voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Camshaft, Lifters and Push Rods > Variable Valve
Timing Actuator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1834
Variable Valve Timing Actuator: Electrical Diagrams
Diagram 31-0
Diagrams: Other diagrams referred to by number (See Diagram ##-#, etc.) within these diagrams
can be found at Diagrams by Number. See: Diagrams/Electrical Diagrams/Diagrams By Number
Locations: Location photographs (references to PHOTOS) referred to within these diagrams can be
found at Locations by Photo Number. See: Locations/Component Locations/Locations By Photo
Number
Connector Views: Connector terminal views (references to VIEWS) referred to within these
diagrams can be found at Connector Views by View
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Camshaft, Lifters and Push Rods > Variable Valve
Timing Actuator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1835
Number. See: Diagrams/Connector Views/Connector Views By View Number
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Camshaft, Lifters and Push Rods > Variable Valve
Timing Actuator > Component Information > Diagrams > Page 1836
VTEC System
- This mechanism improves fuel efficiency and reduces exhaust emissions at all levels of engine
speed, vehicle speed, and engine load.
- The VTEC mechanism changes the valve lift and timing by using more than one cam profile.
- The VTEC system changes the cam profile (angle) at cruising speeds. (Cam angle is changed to
obtain the desired EGR effect and reduce pumping loss).
Operation
- Oil pressure enters secondary rocker arm B from the oil passage in the intake rocker shaft. This
forces the VTEC switching piston into secondary rocker arm A against the return spring and
disengages secondary arm A from secondary arm B to stop valve actuation.
At cruise
The rocker arm oil control valve switches oil pressure to the oil passage in the intake rocker arm
shaft. Oil pressure then enters secondary rocker arm A, and it moves the VTEC switching piston in
the rocker arm.
This causes the VTEC switching piston to slide into secondary rocker arm B, locking secondary
rocker arms A and B together.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Camshaft, Lifters and Push Rods > Variable Valve
Timing Actuator > Component Information > Diagrams > Page 1837
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Block Assembly > Connecting Rod Bearing
> Component Information > Specifications
1. Remove the oil pan. 2. Remove the oil screen and baffle plate. 3. Remove the connecting rod
cap and bearing half. 4. Clean the crankshaft rod journal and bearing half with a clean shop towel.
5. Place plastigage across the rod journal. 6. Reinstall the bearing half, and connecting rod cap,
and torque the bolts to 20 Nm (2.0 kgf-m, 14 lbf-ft) + 90° using a commercially available
7. Remove the connecting rod cap and bearing half, and measure the widest part of the plastigage.
8. If the plastigage measures too wide or too narrow, remove the upper half of the bearing, install a
new, complete bearing with the appropriate color
code(s), and recheck the clearance. Do not file, shim, or scrape the bearings or the caps to adjust
clearance.
9. If the plastigage shows the clearance is still incorrect, try the next larger or smaller bearing (the
color listed above or below the current one), and
check clearance again. If the proper clearance cannot be obtained by using the appropriate larger
or smaller bearing, replace the crankshaft, and start over.
2. Each rod has a tolerance range from 0 to 0.024 mm (0.0009 in.), in 0.006 mm (0.0002 in.)
increments, depending on the size of its big end bore. It
is then stamped with a number or bar (1, 2, 3 or 4/I, II, III, or IIII) indicating the range. You may find
any combination of numbers and bars in any engine. (Half the number or bar is stamped on the
bearing cap, the other half is on the rod.) If you can't read the code because of an accumulation of
oil and varnish, do not scrub it with a wire brush or scraper. Clean it only with solvent or detergent.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Block Assembly > Connecting Rod Bearing
> Component Information > Specifications > Page 1843
Connecting Rod Journal Code Location
4. Use the big end bore codes and rod journal codes to select the appropriate replacement
bearings from the following table.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Block Assembly > Connecting Rod, Engine
> Component Information > Specifications
Connecting Rod
Pin-to-rod clearance
Standard or New
................................................................................................................................................
0.005-0.015 mm (0.0002-0.0006 in.) Service Limit .............................................................................
................................................................................................... 0.2 mm (0.0008 in.)
Standard or New
............................................................................................................................................
19.969-19.975 mm (0.7862-0.7864 in.)
Standard or New
........................................................................................................................................................
0.15-0.35 mm (0.006-0.014 in.) Service limit .......................................................................................
.......................................................................................... 0.45 mm (0.018 in.)
1. Remove the oil pan. 2. Remove the oil screen and baffle plate. 3. Measure the connecting rod
end play with a feeler gauge between the connecting rod and crankshaft.
4. If the connecting rod end play is beyond the service limit, install a new connecting rod, and
recheck. If it is still beyond the service limit; replace
the crankshaft.
5. Push the crankshaft firmly away from the dial indicator, and zero the dial against the end of the
crankshaft. Then pull the crankshaft firmly back
toward the indicator; the dial reading should not exceed the service limit.
6. If the end play is beyond the service limit, replace the thrust washers and recheck. If it is still
beyond the service limit, replace the crankshaft.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Block Assembly > Connecting Rod, Engine
> Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Connecting Rod and Crankshaft End Play Inspection > Page 1849
1. Measure the diameter of each connecting rod bolt at point A and point B.
3. If the difference in diameter is out of specification, replace the connecting rod bolt.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Block Assembly > Connecting Rod, Engine
> Component Information > Service and Repair > Connecting Rod Bearing Replacement
1. Remove the oil pan. 2. Remove the oil screen and baffle plate. 3. Remove the connecting rod
cap and bearing half. 4. Clean the crankshaft rod journal and bearing half with a clean shop towel.
5. Place plastigage across the rod journal. 6. Reinstall the bearing half, and connecting rod cap,
and torque the bolts to 20 Nm (2.0 kgf-m, 14 lbf-ft) + 90° using a commercially available
7. Remove the connecting rod cap and bearing half, and measure the widest part of the plastigage.
8. If the plastigage measures too wide or too narrow, remove the upper half of the bearing, install a
new, complete bearing with the appropriate color
code(s), and recheck the clearance. Do not file, shim, or scrape the bearings or the caps to adjust
clearance.
9. If the plastigage shows the clearance is still incorrect, try the next larger or smaller bearing (the
color listed above or below the current one), and
check clearance again. If the proper clearance cannot be obtained by using the appropriate larger
or smaller bearing, replace the crankshaft, and start over.
2. Each rod has a tolerance range from 0 to 0.024 mm (0.0009 in.), in 0.006 mm (0.0002 in.)
increments, depending on the size of its big end bore. It
is then stamped with a number or bar (1, 2, 3 or 4/I, II, III, or IIII) indicating the range. You may find
any combination of numbers and bars in any engine. (Half the number or bar is stamped on the
bearing cap, the other half is on the rod.) If you can't read the code because of an accumulation of
oil and varnish, do not scrub it with a wire brush or scraper. Clean it only with solvent or detergent.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Block Assembly > Connecting Rod, Engine
> Component Information > Service and Repair > Connecting Rod Bearing Replacement > Page 1852
Connecting Rod Journal Code Location
4. Use the big end bore codes and rod journal codes to select the appropriate replacement
bearings from the following table.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Block Assembly > Connecting Rod, Engine
> Component Information > Service and Repair > Connecting Rod Bearing Replacement > Page 1853
Connecting Rod: Service and Repair Piston, Pin, and Connecting Rod Replacement
Disassembly
1. Remove the piston from the engine block. 2. Apply new engine oil to the piston pin snap rings
(A), and turn them in the ring grooves until the end gaps are lined up with the cutouts in the
3. Remove both snap rings (A). Start at the cutout in the piston pin bore. Remove the snap rings
carefully so they do not go flying or get lost. Wear
eye protection.
4. Heat the piston and connecting rod assembly to about 158°F (70°C), then remove the piston pin.
Inspection
NOTE: Inspect the piston, piston pin, and connecting rod when they are at room temperature.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Block Assembly > Connecting Rod, Engine
> Component Information > Service and Repair > Connecting Rod Bearing Replacement > Page 1854
1. Measure the diameter of the piston pin.
3. Check the difference between the piston pin diameter and piston pin hole diameter in the piston.
2. Coat the piston pin bore, the bore in the connecting rod, and the piston pin with new engine oil.
3. Heat the piston to about 158°F (70°C).
4. Assemble the piston (A) and connecting rod (B) with the mark (C) and the embossed mark (D)
on the same side. Install the piston pin (E).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Block Assembly > Connecting Rod, Engine
> Component Information > Service and Repair > Connecting Rod Bearing Replacement > Page 1856
5. Install the remaining snap ring (F). 6. Turn the snap rings until the end gaps are positioned at the
bottom of the piston.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Block Assembly > Coolant Drain Plug,
Cylinder Block > Component Information > Service and Repair
Crankshaft Bearing
Main Bearing
Torque the bearing cap bolts in sequence to 25 Nm (2.5 kgf-m, 18 lbf-ft) + 57°
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Block Assembly > Crankshaft Main Bearing
> Component Information > Specifications > Page 1863
Torque the 8mm bolts in sequence to 24 Nm (2.4 kgf-m, 17 lbf-ft)
1. Numbers, letters, or bars have been stamped on the end of the engine block as a code for the
size of each of the five main journal bores. Write
down the crank bore codes. If you can't read the codes because of accumulated dirt and dust, do
not scrub them with a wire brush or scraper. Clean them only with solvent or detergent.
2. The main journal codes are stamped on the crankshaft in either location.
3. Use the crank bore codes and crank journal codes to select the appropriate replacement
bearings from the following table.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Block Assembly > Crankshaft Main Bearing
> Component Information > Specifications > Page 1865
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Block Assembly > Crankshaft Main Bearing
> Component Information > Specifications > Page 1866
Crankshaft Main Bearing: Service and Repair
1. To check the main bearing-to-journal oil clearance, remove the lower block and bearing halves.
2. Clean each main journal and bearing half with a clean shop towel. 3. Place one strip of
plastigage across each main journal. 4. Reinstall the bearings and lower block, then torque the
bolts to 25 Nm (2.5 kgf-m, 18 lbf-ft) + 57° in the proper sequence.
5. Remove the lower block and bearings again, and measure the widest part of the plastigage.
6. If the plastigage measures too wide or too narrow, remove the crankshaft, and remove the upper
half of the bearing. Install a new, complete
bearing with the appropriate color code(s), and recheck the clearance. Do not file, shim, or scrape
the bearings or the caps to adjust clearance.
7. If the plastigage shows the clearance is still incorrect, try the next larger or smaller bearing (the
color listed above or below the current one), and
check again. If the proper clearance cannot be obtained by using the appropriate larger or smaller
bearings, replace the crankshaft, and start over.
1. Numbers, letters, or bars have been stamped on either side of the engine block end as a code
for the size of each of the five main journal bores.
Write down the crank bore codes. If you can't read the codes because of accumulated dirt and
dust, do not scrub them with a wire brush or scraper. Clean them only with solvent or detergent.
Crankshaft
Standard or New
............................................................................................................................................
54.976-55.000 mm (2.1644-2.1654 in.)
Standard or New
............................................................................................................................................
44.976-45.000 mm (1.7707-1.7716 in.)
Standard or New
..............................................................................................................................................................
0.005 mm (0.0002 in.) max. Service Limit ...........................................................................................
................................................................................. 0.010 mm (0.0004 in.)
Standard or New
..............................................................................................................................................................
0.005 mm (0.0002 in.) max. Service Limit ...........................................................................................
................................................................................. 0.010 mm (0.0004 in.)
End Play
Standard or New
........................................................................................................................................................
0.10-0.35 mm (0.004-0.014 in.) Service Limit .....................................................................................
........................................................................................... 0.45 mm (0.018 in.)
Runout
1. Remove the oil pan. 2. Remove the oil screen and baffle plate. 3. Measure the connecting rod
end play with a feeler gauge between the connecting rod and crankshaft.
4. If the connecting rod end play is beyond the service limit, install a new connecting rod, and
recheck. If it is still beyond the service limit; replace
the crankshaft.
5. Push the crankshaft firmly away from the dial indicator, and zero the dial against the end of the
crankshaft. Then pull the crankshaft firmly back
toward the indicator; the dial reading should not exceed the service limit.
6. If the end play is beyond the service limit, replace the thrust washers and recheck. If it is still
beyond the service limit, replace the crankshaft.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Block Assembly > Crankshaft, Engine >
Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Connecting Rod and Crankshaft End Play Inspection > Page 1873
Crankshaft: Testing and Inspection Crankshaft Inspection
Crankshaft Inspection
1. Remove the crankshaft from the engine block. 2. Clean the crankshaft oil passages with pipe
cleaners or a suitable brush. 3. Clean the keyway and the threads. 4. Measure the out-of-round at
the middle of each rod and main journal in two places. The difference between measurements on
each journal must
5. Measure the taper at the edges of each rod and main journal. The difference between
measurements on each journal must not be more than the
service limit.
Straightness
6. Place the engine block on the surface plate. 7. Clean and install the bearings on the No. 1 and
No. 5 journals of the engine block. 8. Lower the crankshaft into the block. 9. Measure the runout on
all of the main journals. Rotate the crankshaft two complete revolutions. The difference between
measurements on each
1. Remove the engine/transmission assembly. 2. Remove the transmission. 3. M/T model: Remove
the pressure plate, clutch disc, and flywheel. 4. A/T model: Remove the drive plate. 5. Remove the
oil pan. 6. Remove the oil pump. 7. Remove the cylinder head. 8. Remove the oil screen (A) and
baffle plate (B).
10. Remove the bearing cap bolts. To prevent warpage, loosen the bolts in sequence 1/3 turn at a
time; repeat the sequence until all bolts are loosened.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Block Assembly > Crankshaft, Engine >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Crankshaft and Piston Removal > Page 1876
11. Using a flat blade screwdriver, separate the lower block from the engine block in the places
shown.
12. Remove the lower block and bearings. Keep all the bearings in order. 13. Remove the
connecting rod caps/bearing. Keep all connecting rod caps/bearing halves in order. 14. Lift the
crankshaft (A) out of the engine. Be careful not to damage the, journals and the crankshaft position
(CKP) pulse plate (B).
15. Remove the CKP pulse plate (B). 16. Remove the thrust washers (C). 17. Remove the upper
bearing halves from the connecting rods, and set them aside with their respective caps. 18. If you
can feel a ridge of metal or hard carbon around the top of each cylinder, remove it with a ridge
reamer (A). Follow the reamer
manufacturer's instructions. If the ridge is not removed, it may damage the pistons as they are
pushed out.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Block Assembly > Crankshaft, Engine >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Crankshaft and Piston Removal > Page 1877
19. Use the wooden handle of a hammer (A) to drive out the piston/connecting rod assembly (B).
Take care not to damage the oil jets or cylinder with
20. Reinstall the lower block and the bearings on the engine in the proper order. 21. Reinstall the
connecting rod bearings and caps after removing each piston/connecting rod assembly. 22. Mark
each piston/connecting rod assembly with its cylinder number to make sure they are reused in the
original order.
NOTE: The existing number on the connecting rod does not indicate its position in the engine, it
indicates the rod bore size.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Block Assembly > Crankshaft, Engine >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Crankshaft and Piston Removal > Page 1878
Crankshaft: Service and Repair Crankshaft Installation
Crankshaft Installation
^ Attachment, 24 x 26 mm 07746-0010700
1. With a manual transmission, install the crankshaft end bushing when replacing the crankshaft.
Using the handle driver and attachment, drive in the
crankshaft end bushing until the attachment bottom against the crankshaft.
2. Check the connecting rod bearing clearance with plastigage. 3. Check the main bearing
clearance with plastigage. 4. Install the bearing halves in the engine block and connecting rods. 5.
Apply a coat of new engine oil to the main bearings and rod bearings. 6. Install the crankshaft
position (CKP) pulse plate (A) on the crankshaft (B).
7. Hold the crankshaft so that rod journal No. 2 and rod journal No. 3 are straight up, then lower the
crankshaft into the engine block. 8. Apply new engine oil to the thrust washer surfaces. Install the
thrust washers (A) in the No. 4 journal of the engine block.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Block Assembly > Crankshaft, Engine >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Crankshaft and Piston Removal > Page 1879
9. Inspect the connecting rod bolts.
10. Seat the rod journals into connecting rod No. 1, and connecting rod No. 4. Line up the mark (A)
on the connecting rod and cap, then install the
11. Rotate the crankshaft clockwise, and seat the journals into connecting rod No. 2 and
connecting rod No. 3. Line up the mark on the connecting rod
12. Tighten the connecting rod bolts to 20 Nm (2.0 kgf.m, 14 lbf-ft). 13. Tighten the connecting rod
bolts an additional 90°.
14. Remove any old liquid gasket from the lower block mating surfaces, bolts, and bolt holes. 15.
Clean and dry the lower block mating surfaces. 16. Apply liquid gasket, P/N 08717-0004,
08718-0001, 08718-0003, or 08718-0009, evenly to the engine block mating surface of the lower
block.
18. Apply new engine oil to the threads and flange of the bearing cap bolts. 19. Tighten the bearing
cap bolts, in sequence, to 25 Nm (2.5 kgf-m, 18 lbf-ft).
22. Use the handle driver and oil seal driver attachment to drive a new oil seal squarely into the
engine block to the specified installed height.
23. Measure the distance between the engine block (A) and crankshaft oil seal (B).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Block Assembly > Crankshaft, Engine >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Crankshaft and Piston Removal > Page 1882
24. Install the baffle plate (A), then install the oil screen (B) with a new O-ring (C).
25. Install the oil pump. 26. Install the oil pan. 27. Install the cylinder head. 28. M/T model: Install
the flywheel, clutch disc, and pressure plate. 29. A/T model: Install the drive plate. 30. Install the
transmission. 31. Install the engine/transmission.
NOTE: Whenever any crankshaft or connecting rod bearing is replaced, it is necessary after
reassembly to run the engine at idle speed until it reaches normal operating temperature, then
continue running it for about 15 minutes.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Block Assembly > Harmonic Balancer -
Crankshaft Pulley > Component Information > Specifications
Crankshaft Pulley
Removal
1. Remove the right front wheel. 2. Remove the drive belt. 3. Hold the pulley with the holder handle
(A) and holder (B).
4. Remove the bolt with a heavy duty 19 mm socket (C) and breaker bar, then remove the
crankshaft pulley.
Installation
1. Clean the crankshaft pulley (A), crankshaft (B), bolt (C), and washer (D). Lubricate with new
engine oil as shown.
2. Install the crankshaft pulley, and hold the pulley with the handle (A) and holder attachment (B).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Block Assembly > Harmonic Balancer -
Crankshaft Pulley > Component Information > Specifications > Page 1887
3. Tighten the bolt to 69 Nm (7.0 kgf-m, 51 lbf-ft) with a torque wrench and 19 mm socket (C). Do
not use an impact wrench. 4. Mark the bolt head (A) and the crankshaft pulley (B) as shown, then
tighten the bolt an additional 90° (The mark on the bolt head line up with the
Piston
Standard or New
............................................................................................................................................
80.980-80.990 mm (3.1881-3.1886 in.) Service Limit .........................................................................
..................................................................................................... 80.93 mm (3.186 in.)
Clearance in Cylinder:
Standard or New
....................................................................................................................................................
0.100.035 mm (0.0004-0.0014 in.) Service Limit .................................................................................
............................................................................................... 0.05 mm (0.002 in.)
Standard or New
Top: .....................................................................................................................................................
................. 1.23-1.24 mm (0.048-0.049 in.) Second: ...........................................................................
..................................................................................... 1.22-1.23 mm (0.047-0.048 in.) Oil: ...............
................................................................................................................................................
2.005-2.020 mm (0.0789-0.0795 in.)
Service Limit
Top: .....................................................................................................................................................
................................... 1.26 mm (0.050 in.) Second: ...........................................................................
........................................................................................................ 1.25 mm (0.049 in.) Oil: ..............
..............................................................................................................................................................
.............. 2.05 mm (0.081 in.)
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Block Assembly > Piston, Engine >
Component Information > Specifications > Page 1891
1. Remove the crankshaft and pistons. 2. Check the piston for distortion or cracks. 3. Measure the
piston diameter at a point 14 mm (0.55 in.) from the bottom of the skirt.
4. Measure the wear and taper Y at three levels inside each cylinder as shown. If the
measurements in any cylinder are beyond the Oversize Bore
Service Limit, replace the engine block. If the engine block is being rebored, refer to step 7 after
reboring.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Block Assembly > Piston, Engine >
Component Information > Specifications > Page 1892
5. Scored or scratched cylinder bores must be honed. 6. Check the top of the engine block for
warpage. Measure along the edges, and across the center as shown.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Block Assembly > Piston, Engine >
Component Information > Specifications > Page 1893
7. Calculate the difference between the cylinder bore diameter and the piston diameter. If the
clearance is near, or exceeds the service limit, inspect
1. Remove the engine/transmission assembly. 2. Remove the transmission. 3. M/T model: Remove
the pressure plate, clutch disc, and flywheel. 4. A/T model: Remove the drive plate. 5. Remove the
oil pan. 6. Remove the oil pump. 7. Remove the cylinder head. 8. Remove the oil screen (A) and
baffle plate (B).
10. Remove the bearing cap bolts. To prevent warpage, loosen the bolts in sequence 1/3 turn at a
time; repeat the sequence until all bolts are loosened.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Block Assembly > Piston, Engine >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Crankshaft and Piston Removal > Page 1896
11. Using a flat blade screwdriver, separate the lower block from the engine block in the places
shown.
12. Remove the lower block and bearings. Keep all the bearings in order. 13. Remove the
connecting rod caps/bearing. Keep all connecting rod caps/bearing halves in order. 14. Lift the
crankshaft (A) out of the engine. Be careful not to damage the, journals and the crankshaft position
(CKP) pulse plate (B).
15. Remove the CKP pulse plate (B). 16. Remove the thrust washers (C). 17. Remove the upper
bearing halves from the connecting rods, and set them aside with their respective caps. 18. If you
can feel a ridge of metal or hard carbon around the top of each cylinder, remove it with a ridge
reamer (A). Follow the reamer
manufacturer's instructions. If the ridge is not removed, it may damage the pistons as they are
pushed out.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Block Assembly > Piston, Engine >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Crankshaft and Piston Removal > Page 1897
19. Use the wooden handle of a hammer (A) to drive out the piston/connecting rod assembly (B).
Take care not to damage the oil jets or cylinder with
20. Reinstall the lower block and the bearings on the engine in the proper order. 21. Reinstall the
connecting rod bearings and caps after removing each piston/connecting rod assembly. 22. Mark
each piston/connecting rod assembly with its cylinder number to make sure they are reused in the
original order.
NOTE: The existing number on the connecting rod does not indicate its position in the engine, it
indicates the rod bore size.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Block Assembly > Piston, Engine >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Crankshaft and Piston Removal > Page 1898
Piston: Service and Repair Piston, Pin, and Connecting Rod Replacement
Disassembly
1. Remove the piston from the engine block. 2. Apply new engine oil to the piston pin snap rings
(A), and turn them in the ring grooves until the end gaps are lined up with the cutouts in the
3. Remove both snap rings (A). Start at the cutout in the piston pin bore. Remove the snap rings
carefully so they do not go flying or get lost. Wear
eye protection.
4. Heat the piston and connecting rod assembly to about 158°F (70°C), then remove the piston pin.
Inspection
NOTE: Inspect the piston, piston pin, and connecting rod when they are at room temperature.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Block Assembly > Piston, Engine >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Crankshaft and Piston Removal > Page 1899
1. Measure the diameter of the piston pin.
3. Check the difference between the piston pin diameter and piston pin hole diameter in the piston.
2. Coat the piston pin bore, the bore in the connecting rod, and the piston pin with new engine oil.
3. Heat the piston to about 158°F (70°C).
4. Assemble the piston (A) and connecting rod (B) with the mark (C) and the embossed mark (D)
on the same side. Install the piston pin (E).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Block Assembly > Piston, Engine >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Crankshaft and Piston Removal > Page 1901
5. Install the remaining snap ring (F). 6. Turn the snap rings until the end gaps are positioned at the
bottom of the piston.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Block Assembly > Piston, Engine >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Crankshaft and Piston Removal > Page 1902
Piston: Service and Repair Piston Installation
Piston Installation
1. Set the crankshaft to bottom dead center (BDC) for each cylinder as its piston is installed. 2.
Remove the connecting rod caps, then install the ring compressor. Check that the bearing is
securely in place. 3. Apply new engine oil to the piston, inside of the ring compressor, and the
cylinder bore, then attach the ring compressor to the piston/connecting
rod assembly.
4. Position the mark (A) toward the cam chain end of the engine.
5. Position the piston in the cylinder, and tap it in using the wooden handle of a hammer (A). Push
down on the ring compressor (B) to prevent the
6. Stop after the ring compressor pops free, and check the connecting rod-to-crank journal
alignment before pushing the piston into place. 7. Check the connecting rod bearing clearance with
plastigage. 8. Inspect the connecting rod bolts. 9. Apply new engine oil to the bolt threads, then
install the rod caps with bearings. Torque the bolts to 20 Nm (2.0 kgf-m, 14 lbf-ft).
1. Remove the connecting rod caps, then install the ring compressor, and check that the bearing is
securely in place. 2. Apply new engine oil to the piston, inside of the ring compressor, and the
cylinder bore, then attach the ring compressor to the piston/connecting
rod assembly.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Block Assembly > Piston, Engine >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Crankshaft and Piston Removal > Page 1903
3. Position the mark (A) to face the cam chain side of the engine.
4. Position the piston in the cylinder, and tap it in using the wooden handle of a hammer (A). Push
down on the ring compressor (B) to prevent the
Ring-to-grove Clearances
Top Ring:
Standard (New): 0.20 - 0.35 mm (0.008 - 0.014 in.) Service Limit: 0.60 mm (0.024 in.)
Second Ring:
Standard (New): 0.40 - 0.55 mm (0.016 - 0.022 in.) Service Limit: 0.70 mm (0.028 in.)
Oil Ring:
Standard (New): 0.20 - 0.50 mm (0.008 - 0.020,in.) Service Limit: 0.70 mm (0.028 in.)
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Block Assembly > Piston Ring, Engine >
Component Information > Specifications > Page 1907
Piston Ring: Service and Repair
1. Remove the piston from the engine block. 2. Using a ring expander (A), remove the old piston
rings (B).
3. Clean all the ring grooves thoroughly with a squared-off broken ring, or a ring groove cleaner
with a blade to fit the piston grooves. File down a
blade if necessary. The top ring and second ring grooves are 1.2 mm (0.05 in.) wide, and the oil
ring groove is 2.0 mm (0.08 in.) wide. Do not use a wire brush to clean the ring grooves, or cut the
ring grooves deeper with the cleaning tools.
NOTE: If the piston is to be separated from the connecting rod, do not install new rings yet.
4. Using a piston, push a new ring (A) into the cylinder bore 15 - 20 mm (0.6 - 0.8 in.) from the
bottom.
^ If the gap is too small, check to see if you have the proper rings for your engine.
^ If the gap is too large, recheck the cylinder bore diameter against the wear limits. If the bore is
beyond the service limit, the engine block must be rebored.
Top Ring:
Standard (New): 0.20 - 0.35 mm (0.008 - 0.014 in.) Service Limit: 0.60 mm (0.024 in.)
Second Ring:
Standard (New): 0.40 - 0.55 mm (0.016 - 0.022 in.) Service Limit: 0.70 mm (0.028 in.)
Oil Ring:
Standard (New): 0.20 - 0.50 mm (0.008 - 0.020,in.) Service Limit: 0.70 mm (0.028 in.)
6. Install the rings as shown. The top ring (A) has a 1R mark, and the second ring (B) has a 2A or
2R mark. The manufacturing marks (C) must be
facing upward.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Block Assembly > Piston Ring, Engine >
Component Information > Specifications > Page 1908
7. Rotate the rings in their grooves to make sure they do not bind. 8. Position the ring end gaps as
shown:
Valve Clearance
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Head Assembly > Valve Clearance >
System Information > Specifications > Page 1914
Valve Clearance: Adjustments
NOTE: Adjust the valves only when the cylinder head temperature is less than 100°F (38°C).
1. Remove the cylinder head cover. 2. Set the No. 1 piston at top dead center (TDC). The "UP"
mark (A) on the camshaft sprocket should be at the top, and the TDC grooves (B) on the
camshaft sprocket should line up with the top edge of the head.
3. Select the correct thickness feeler gauge for the valves you're going to check.
4. Insert the feeler gauge (A) between the adjusting screw and the end of the valve stem on No. 1
cylinder and slide it back and forth; you should feel
6. Tighten the locknut, and recheck the clearance. Repeat the adjustment, if necessary. 7. Tighten
the locknut.
8. Recheck the valve clearance. Repeat the adjustment if necessary. 9. Rotate the crankshaft
clockwise. Align the No. 3 piston TDC groove (A) on the camshaft sprocket with the top edge of the
head.
10. Check, and if necessary, adjust the valve clearance on No. 3 cylinder. 11. Rotate the
crankshaft clockwise. Align the No. 4 piston TDC groove (A) on the camshaft sprocket with the top
edge of the head.
12. Check, and if necessary, adjust the valve clearance on No. 4 cylinder. 13. Rotate the
crankshaft clockwise. Align the No. 2 piston TDC groove (A) on the camshaft sprocket with the top
edge of the head.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Head Assembly > Valve Clearance >
System Information > Specifications > Page 1916
14. Check, and if necessary, adjust the valve clearance on No. 2 cylinder. 15. Install the cylinder
head cover.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Head Assembly > Fuel Pressure Release >
System Information > Service and Repair
Fuel Pressure Release: Service and Repair
WARNING: Compressed natural gas is flammable and highly explosive. You could be killed or
seriously injured if leaking natural gas is ignited. Stop the engine, and keep heat, sparks and
flames away.
This procedure should be done outside in a well-ventilated area or in a properly equipped CNG
shop.
This procedure will allow you to safely work on any part of the fuel system downstream of the
manual shut-off valve, such as fuel pressure regulator P1 or the fuel injectors.
1. Lift the vehicle, and support it with jackstands. 2. Close the manual shut-off valve (A).
3. Start the engine, and let it idle. After a few minutes, the engine will stall. 4. Turn the ignition
switch OFF.
This procedure will allow you to safely work on any part of the fuel system downstream of the fuel
tank such as the fuel joint block or the manual shut-off valve.
1. Remove the rear seat. 2. Disconnect the fuel subharness 6P connector (A) (this prevents the
tank from supplying fuel to the system).
3. Start the engine, and let it idle. After a few minutes, the engine will stall. 4. Turn the ignition
switch OFF.
This procedure will allow you to safely work on any part of the fuel system between the fuel joint
block and fuel receptacle.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Head Assembly > Fuel Pressure Release >
System Information > Service and Repair > Page 1920
1. Relieve the fuel pressure between the fuel tank and the manual shut-off valve (see the previous
procedure). 2. Remove the under floor cover (A).
3. Loosen the sealing bolt (A) on the fuel joint block slowly.
4. Turn the fuel stem assembly (B) 1/2-1 turn counterclockwise. 5. Replace the fuel stem assembly
and sealing bolt O-ring (C).
NOTE: This procedure degrades the integrity of the fuel tank. Do it only if you are replacing the fuel
tank.
1. Lift the vehicle and support it with jackstands. 2. Close the manual shut-off valve (A).
3. Start the engine, and let it idle. After a few minutes, the engine will stall.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Head Assembly > Fuel Pressure Release >
System Information > Service and Repair > Page 1921
4. Turn the ignition switch OFF, and disconnect the negative cable from the battery. 5. Connect a
ground wire (A) (available from AH special tools department) to the fuel line to eliminate any static
electricity.
6. Disconnect the fuel supply pipe (B) from fuel pressure regulator P1 (C). Be careful not to lose the
O-rings.
NOTE: Always use two wrenches when removing or installing the fuel pipe nut.
7. Connect the vent tube to the fuel supply pipe. 8. Secure the other end of the vent tube to the
highest possible location. 9. Remove the fuel pipe duct, and slowly remove the manual lock-down
valve (A). Install the manual override vent tool (B) (available from AH
10. Slowly turn the tool's Allen bolt clockwise until it stops. This opens the line between the fuel
tank and the manual shut-off valve. 11. Open the manual shut-off valve so fuel can vent from the
fuel tank. The fuel tank is empty when the hissing sound goes away. 12. Remove the manual
override vent tool.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Head Assembly > Rocker Arm Assembly >
Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Rocker Arm and Shaft Inspection
Rocker Arm Assembly: Testing and Inspection Rocker Arm and Shaft Inspection
1. Remove the rocker arm assembly. 2. Disassemble the rocker arm assembly. 3. Measure the
diameter of the shaft at the first rocker location.
5. Measure the inside diameter of the rocker arm, and check it for an out-of-round condition.
6. Repeat for all rockers and both shafts. If the clearance is beyond the service limit, replace the
rocker shaft and all out of service limit rocker arms.
If any intake secondary rocker arm needs replacement, replace the secondary rocker arms as an
assembly.
7. Inspect the rocker arm pistons (B). Push on them manually. If they do not move smoothly,
replace the rocker arm set.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Head Assembly > Rocker Arm Assembly >
Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Rocker Arm and Shaft Inspection > Page 1926
8. Reassemble the rocker arm assembly. 9. Install the rocker arm assembly.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Head Assembly > Rocker Arm Assembly >
Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Rocker Arm and Shaft Inspection > Page 1927
Rocker Arm Assembly: Testing and Inspection VTEC Rocker Arm Test
1. Start the engine, and let it run for 5 minutes, then turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). 2.
Remove the cylinder head cover. 3. Set the No. 1 piston at top dead center (TDC). 4. Move the
intake secondary rocker arm A for the No. 1 cylinder. The secondary rocker arm A should move
independently of the secondary rocker
arm B. ^
^ If the intake secondary rocker arm A does not move, remove the secondary rocker arms as an
assembly, then check that the pistons in the secondary rocker arms move smoothly. If any rocker
arm needs replacing, replace the secondary rocker arms as an assembly, then retest.
5. Repeat step 4 on the remaining intake secondary rocker arms with each piston at TDC. When all
the secondary rocker arms pass the test, go to step
6.
6. Check that the air pressure on the shop air compressor gauge indicates over 400 kPa (4.0
kgf/cm2, 57 psi). 7. Inspect the valve clearance. 8. Install a 10 x 1.0 mm adapter to the inspection
hole, then connect the air pressure regulator.
9. Loosen the valve on the regulator, and apply the specified air pressure.
10. With the specified air pressure applied, move the intake secondary rocker arm A for the No. 1
cylinder. The secondary rocker arm A and
secondary rocker arm B should move together. If the intake secondary rocker arm A does not
move, remove the secondary rocker arms as an assembly, and check that the pistons in the
secondary rocker arms move smoothly. If any rocker arm needs replacing, replace the secondary
rocker arms as an assembly, then retest.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Head Assembly > Rocker Arm Assembly >
Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Rocker Arm and Shaft Inspection > Page 1928
11. Remove the air pressure regulator and the 10 x 1.0 mm adapter. 12. Install the cylinder head
cover.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Head Assembly > Rocker Arm Assembly >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Removal and Replacement
3. Remove the lost motion holder bolts. To prevent damaging the lost motion holder and rocker
shaft, loosen the bolts, in sequence, two turns at a
time.
4. Remove the lost motion holder (A) and lost motion assemblies (B).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Head Assembly > Rocker Arm Assembly >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Removal and Replacement > Page 1931
5. Remove the rocker arm assembly (C), then remove the oil control orifice (D).
1. If the rocker arm assembly is disassembled, reassemble the rocker arm assembly. 2. Install the
oil control orifice (A) with a new O-ring (B), then install the rocker arm assembly (C).
3. Install the lost motion assembles (D) and the lost motion holder (E). 4. Tighten each bolts two
turns at a time in sequence.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Head Assembly > Rocker Arm Assembly >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Removal and Replacement > Page 1932
NOTE: ^
Identify each part as it is removed so that each item can be reinstalled in its original position.
^ When removing, or installing the rocker arm assembly, do not remove the camshaft holder bolts.
The bolts will keep the holders and rocker arms on the shaft.
^ Remove the rocker shaft bolt before removing the rocker shaft from the No. 5 rocker shaft holder.
^ Prior to reassembling, clean all the parts in solvent, dry them, and apply new engine oil to any
contact points.
^ Bundle the intake secondary rocker arms with rubber bands to keep them together as a set.
^ When replacing the intake rocker arm assembly, remove the fastening hardware from the new
intake rocker arm assembly.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Head Assembly > Valve Cover >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Cylinder Head Cover Removal
Valve Cover: Service and Repair Cylinder Head Cover Removal
3. Disconnect the four ignition coil connectors. Remove the four bolts (A) securing the harness
holders, then remove the front harness holder (B)
4. Disconnect the alternator connector (A) and BLK wire (B) from the alternator.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Head Assembly > Valve Cover >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Cylinder Head Cover Removal > Page 1938
5. Disconnect the A/C compressor clutch connector (C), and remove the harness clamp (D). 6.
Remove the dipstick (A) and disconnect the breather hose (B).
1. Thoroughly clean the head. cover gasket and the groove. 2. Install the head cover gasket (A) in
the groove of the cylinder head cover (B).
3. Check that the mating surfaces are clean and dry. 4. Apply liquid gasket, P/N 08717-0004,
08718-0001, 08718-0003, or 08718-0009, evenly to the oil pump mating surface. Install the
component
5. Install the cylinder head cover, and tighten the bolts in three steps. In the final step, tighten all
the bolts, in sequence, to 9.8 Nm (1.0 kgf-m, 7.2
lbf-ft).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Head Assembly > Valve Cover >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Cylinder Head Cover Removal > Page 1940
6. Install the dipstick (A) and breather hose (B).
7. Connect the alternator connector (A) and BLK wire (B) to the alternator.
8. Connect the A/C compressor clutch connector (C), and install the harness clamp (D). 9. Install
the front harness holder (A) to the bracket, then tighten the four bolts (B) securing the harness
holders.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Head Assembly > Valve Cover >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Cylinder Head Cover Removal > Page 1941
10. Connect the four ignition coil connectors. 11. Install the injector cover.
1. Remove the valves. 2. Slide the valve out of its guide about 10 mm (0.39 in.), then measure the
guide-to-stem clearance with a dial indicator while rocking the stem in the
If the measurement exceeds the service limit, recheck it using a new valve.
^ If the measurement is now within the service limit, reassemble using a new valve.
^ If the measurement with a new valve still exceeds the service limit, go to step 3.
3. Subtract the valve stem O.D. (measured with a micrometer) from the valve guide I.D. (measured
with an inside micrometer or ball gauge). Take
the measurements in three places along the valve stem and three places inside the valve guide.
The difference between the largest guide measurement and the smallest stem measurement
should not exceed the service limit.
Standard (New): 0.02 - 0.05 mm (0.0008 - 0.0020 in.) Service Limit: 0.08 mm (0.003 in.)
Standard (New): 0.05 - 0.08 mm (0.0020 - 0.0031 in.) Service Limit: 0.11 mm (0.004 in.)
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Head Assembly > Valve Guide >
Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Page 1945
3. Select the proper replacement guides, and chill them in the freezer section of a refrigerator for
about an hour. 4. Use a hot plate or oven to evenly heat the cylinder head to 300°F (50°C). Monitor
the temperature with a cooking thermometer. Do not get the
head hotter than 300°F (150°C); excessive heat may loosen the valve seats.
5. Working from the camshaft side, use the driver and an air hammer to drive the guide about 2
mm (0.1 in.) towards the combustion chamber. This
will knock off some of the carbon and make removal easier. Hold the air hammer directly in line
with the valve guide to prevent damaging the driver. Wear safety goggles or a face shield.
6. Turn the head over, and drive the guide out toward the camshaft side of the head.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Head Assembly > Valve Guide >
Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Page 1946
7. If a valve guide still won't move, drill it out with a 8 mm (5/16 in.) bit, then try again.
NOTE: Drill guides only in extreme cases; you could damage the cylinder head if the guide breaks.
8. Take out the new guide(s) from the freezer, one at a time, as you need them. 9. Apply a thin coat
of new engine oil to the outside of the new valve guide. Install the guide from the camshaft side of
the head; use the valve guide
driver to drive the guide to the specified installed height (A) of the guide (B). If you have all 16
guides to do, you may have to reheat the head.
10. Coat both the reamer and the valve guide with cutting oil. 11. Rotate the reamer clockwise to
the full length of the valve guide bore.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Head Assembly > Valve Guide >
Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Page 1947
12. Continue to rotate the reamer clockwise while drawing it from the bore. 13. Thoroughly wash
the guide in detergent and water to remove any cutting residue. 14. Check the clearance with a
valve. Verify that a valve slides into the intake and exhaust valve guides without sticking.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Head Assembly > Valve Seat > Component
Information > Service and Repair
Valve Seat: Service and Repair
1. Inspect the valve stem-to-guide clearance. If the valve guides are worn, replace them before
cutting the valve seats. 2. Renew the valve seats in the cylinder head using a valve seat cutter.
3. Carefully cut a 45° seat, removing only enough material to ensure a smooth and concentric seat.
4. Bevel the upper edge of the seat with the 30° cutter and the lower edge of the seat with the 60°
cutter. Check the width of the seat and adjust
accordingly.
5. Make one more very light pass with the 45° cutter to remove any possible burrs caused by the
other cutters.
Standard (New): 1.25 - 1.55 mm (0.049 - 0.061 in.) Service Limit: 2.0 mm (0.08 in.)
Exhaust:
Standard (New): 1.45 - 1.75 mm (0.057 - 0.00 in.) Service Limit: 2.2 mm (0.09 in.)
6. After resurfacing the seat, inspect it for even valve seating. Apply Prussian Blue compound (A)
to the valve face. Insert the valve in its original
location in the head, then lift it and snap it closed against the seat several times.
7. The actual valve seating surface (B), as shown by the blue compound, should be centered on
the seat.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Head Assembly > Valve Seat > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Page 1951
^ If it is too high (closer to the valve stem), you must make a second cut with the 60° cutter to move
it down, then one more cut with the 45° cutter to restore seat width.
^ If it is too low (closer to the valve edge), you must make a second cut with the 30° cutter to move
it up, then one more cut with the 45° cutter to restore seat width.
NOTE: The final cut should always be made with the 45° cutter.
8. Insert the intake and exhaust valves in the head, and measure the valve stem installed height
(A).
9. If the valve stem installed height is beyond the service limit, replace the valve and recheck. If it is
still beyond the service limit, replace the
Valve Inspection
Identify the valves and valve springs as they are removed so that each item can be reinstalled in its
original position.
1. Remove the cylinder head. 2. Using an appropriate-sized socket (A) and plastic mallet (B), lightly
tap the spring retainer to loosen the valve cotters.
3. Install the valve spring compressor attachment and valve spring compressor. Compress the
valve spring, and remove the valve cotters.
4. Remove the valve spring compressor, valve spring compressor attachment, spring retainer, and
valve spring. 5. Install the valve guide seal remover (A).
1. Coat the valve stems with new engine oil. Install the valves in the valve guides. 2. Check that the
valves move up and down smoothly. 3. Install the spring seats on the cylinder head. 4. Install the
new valve seals (A) using the stem seal driver (B).
5. Install the valve spring and spring retainer. Place the end of the valve spring with the closely
wound coils toward the cylinder head. 6. Install the valve spring compressor attachment and valve
spring compressor. Compress the spring, and install the valve cotters.
7. Remove the valve spring compressor and valve spring compressor attachment. 8. Lightly tap the
end of each valve stem two or three times with a plastic mallet (A) to ensure proper seating of the
valve and valve cotters. Tap the
valve stem only along its axis so you do not bend the stem.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Head Assembly > Valve, Intake/Exhaust >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Valve, Spring, and Valve Seal Removal > Page 1959
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Drive Belts, Mounts, Brackets and Accessories >
Drive Belt > Component Information > Testing and Inspection
1. Inspect the belt for cracks or damage. If the belt is cracked or damaged, replace it. 2. Check that
the auto-tensioner indicator (A) is within the standard range (B) as shown. If it is out of the standard
range, replace the drive belt. After
3. If the maintenance minder required you to inspect the drive belt, reset the maintenance minder,
and this procedure is complete.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Drive Belts, Mounts, Brackets and Accessories >
Drive Belt > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Page 1964
Drive Belt: Service and Repair
1. Set a long-handled, boxed-end wrench on the drive belt auto-tensioner from above the engine.
Slowly turn the wrench in the direction shown, then
NOTE: This is a hydraulic type auto-tensioner; you must turn the wrench slowly.
-Lightweight and slim design -Equipped with 14mm and 19mm, 12 point securing attachments
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Drive Belts, Mounts, Brackets and Accessories >
Drive Belt > Component Information > Tools and Equipment > Electrical / Mechanical Repair > Page 1967
-Works on most Honda applications
Honda serpentine belt wrench equipped with 14mm and 19mm, 12 point secured sockets, for
engagement every 30 degrees. Ideal for strong tensioners used on 2006 and newer civics.
1. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), and make sure to turn the A/C switch OFF. Turn the ignition
switch to LOCK (0). 2. Check the position of the auto-tensioner indicator's pointer (A). Start the
engine then check the position again with the engine idling. If the position
3. Check for abnormal noise from the tensioner pulley. If you hear abnormal noise, replace the
auto-tensioner pulley. 4. Remove the drive belt. 5. Set a long-handled, boxed-end wrench on the
drive belt auto-tensioner from above the engine. Slowly turn the wrench in the direction shown.
Check that the tensioner moves smoothly and without any abnormal noise. If the tensioner does
not move smoothly, or you hear abnormal noise, replace the auto-tensioner.
NOTE: This is a hydraulic type auto-tensioner; you must turn the wrench slowly.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Drive Belts, Mounts, Brackets and Accessories >
Drive Belt Tensioner > Component Information > Service and Repair > Drive Belt Auto-Tensioner Removal/Installation
Drive Belt Tensioner: Service and Repair Drive Belt Auto-Tensioner Removal/Installation
2. Remove the drive belt. 3. Remove the alternator. 4. Remove the water pump pulley.
Drive Belt Tensioner: Service and Repair Drive Belt Auto-Tensioner Air Bleeding
1. Remove the drive belt. 2. Set a long-handled, boxed-end wrench on the drive belt auto-tensioner
from the top of the engine. Apply slow and steady pressure (3 seconds or
more to complete the stroke) to compress the drive belt auto-tensioner. Pull the wrench back,
taking 3 or more seconds to complete the stroke. Do this action a total of 3 times to complete the
air bleeding.
Engine Mount: Customer Interest Engine - Rattles From Right Front Of Vehicle
06-060
Rattle or Knock From Right-Front of Vehicle When Driving Over Bumps (Supersedes 06-060, dated
September 30, 2010, to revise the information marked by the black bars and asterisks)
REVISION SUMMARY
*Under PARTS INFORMATION, one side engine mount part number was changed.*
SYMPTOM
There is a rattle or a knock coming from the right-front of the vehicle when driving over bumps at 15
to 20 mph (24 to 32 km/h).
PROBABLE CAUSE
The passenger's side hydraulic side engine mount is cavitating and making a rattling sound, or it is
torn and making a knocking sound.
VEHICLES AFFECTED
CORRECTIVE ACTION
PARTS INFORMATION
TOOL INFORMATION
Diagnostic Spacer:
T/N 07AAJ-SNAA110
DIAGNOSIS
A Civic with the R18A1 engine is shown in the photograph. The diagnosis is the same for all other
Civic engine types.
1. Visually inspect the passenger's side engine mount for tearing or leaking.
^ If the engine mount is torn or leaking fluid, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE, no test drive is needed.
^ If the engine mount is not torn or leaking fluid, and the vehicle is within the affected VIN range for
a cavitating engine mount, go to step 2.
^ If the engine mount is not torn or leaking fluid, and the vehicle is not within the affected VIN range
for a cavitating engine mount, this service bulletin does not apply; proceed with normal
troubleshooting.
2. Place a wood block onto a floor jack, and position it under the oil pan at the end closest to the
passenger's side engine mount. Raise the engine
enough to insert the diagnostic spacer between the side engine mount and the bracket. Be sure to
leave the spacer sticking out about 1/2 inch so it can be easily removed. Remove the floor jack.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Drive Belts, Mounts, Brackets and Accessories >
Engine Mount > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Engine Mount: > 06-060 >
Dec > 10 > Engine - Rattles From Right Front Of Vehicle > Page 1985
NOTE:
Installing the diagnostic spacer increases engine vibration at idle.
3. Test-drive the vehicle at the same speed and over the same type of road conditions that the
customer says causes the noise.
NOTE:
It is possible the noise can be recreated by driving 15 to 20 mph over a 1-1/2 to 2 inch drop in the
road surface.
^ If the rattling is gone with the spacer placed between the side engine mount and the side engine
bracket, go to the REPAIR PROCEDURE.
^ If the vehicle still rattles, remove the spacer and continue with normal troubleshooting.
REPAIR PROCEDURE
A Civic with the R18A1 engine is shown in the illustrations for steps 3, 5, and 6. The repair
procedure is the same for all other Civic engine types.
1. Place a block of wood onto a floor jack, and position it under the oil pan at the end closest to the
engine side mount. Remove the diagnostic spacer.
NOTE:
Adjust the engine height as needed while doing the following steps.
2. On the Si models, remove the clip securing the washer reservoir to the fender and move the
reservoir out of the way.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Drive Belts, Mounts, Brackets and Accessories >
Engine Mount > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Engine Mount: > 06-060 >
Dec > 10 > Engine - Rattles From Right Front Of Vehicle > Page 1986
3. Remove the bolt securing the A/C line, then remove the three bolts holding the upper torque rod
in place.
NOTE:
Use new flange bolts when reinstalling the upper torque rod.
4. Push the torque rod toward the rear of the vehicle, and rotate it clockwise 90 degrees so that it is
out of the way.
5. Remove the middle bolt on top of the side engine mount bracket, the bolt holding the ground
cable to the side engine mount bracket, and the bolt and
nut holding the side engine mount bracket to the engine block. Remove the side engine mount
bracket.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Drive Belts, Mounts, Brackets and Accessories >
Engine Mount > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Engine Mount: > 06-060 >
Dec > 10 > Engine - Rattles From Right Front Of Vehicle > Page 1987
6. Remove the bolt and bracket holding the ABS brake lines to the engine mount stiffener. Remove
the two bolts holding the engine mount stiffener to
the side engine mount, and the bolt holding the engine mount stiffener to the body. Remove the
engine mount stiffener.
7. Remove the two bolts holding the side engine mount to the frame rail.
8. To make it easier to remove the side engine mount, remove the NC bracket bolt so the NC line
can be gently pulled out of the way.
10. Install the new side engine mount (rubber assembly), then reassemble the other parts in
reverse order.
Disclaimer
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Drive Belts, Mounts, Brackets and Accessories >
Engine Mount > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Engine Mount: >
06-060 > Dec > 10 > Engine - Rattles From Right Front Of Vehicle
Engine Mount: All Technical Service Bulletins Engine - Rattles From Right Front Of Vehicle
06-060
Rattle or Knock From Right-Front of Vehicle When Driving Over Bumps (Supersedes 06-060, dated
September 30, 2010, to revise the information marked by the black bars and asterisks)
REVISION SUMMARY
*Under PARTS INFORMATION, one side engine mount part number was changed.*
SYMPTOM
There is a rattle or a knock coming from the right-front of the vehicle when driving over bumps at 15
to 20 mph (24 to 32 km/h).
PROBABLE CAUSE
The passenger's side hydraulic side engine mount is cavitating and making a rattling sound, or it is
torn and making a knocking sound.
VEHICLES AFFECTED
CORRECTIVE ACTION
PARTS INFORMATION
TOOL INFORMATION
Diagnostic Spacer:
T/N 07AAJ-SNAA110
DIAGNOSIS
A Civic with the R18A1 engine is shown in the photograph. The diagnosis is the same for all other
Civic engine types.
1. Visually inspect the passenger's side engine mount for tearing or leaking.
^ If the engine mount is torn or leaking fluid, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE, no test drive is needed.
^ If the engine mount is not torn or leaking fluid, and the vehicle is within the affected VIN range for
a cavitating engine mount, go to step 2.
^ If the engine mount is not torn or leaking fluid, and the vehicle is not within the affected VIN range
for a cavitating engine mount, this service bulletin does not apply; proceed with normal
troubleshooting.
2. Place a wood block onto a floor jack, and position it under the oil pan at the end closest to the
passenger's side engine mount. Raise the engine
enough to insert the diagnostic spacer between the side engine mount and the bracket. Be sure to
leave the spacer sticking out about 1/2 inch so it can be easily removed. Remove the floor jack.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Drive Belts, Mounts, Brackets and Accessories >
Engine Mount > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Engine Mount: >
06-060 > Dec > 10 > Engine - Rattles From Right Front Of Vehicle > Page 1994
NOTE:
Installing the diagnostic spacer increases engine vibration at idle.
3. Test-drive the vehicle at the same speed and over the same type of road conditions that the
customer says causes the noise.
NOTE:
It is possible the noise can be recreated by driving 15 to 20 mph over a 1-1/2 to 2 inch drop in the
road surface.
^ If the rattling is gone with the spacer placed between the side engine mount and the side engine
bracket, go to the REPAIR PROCEDURE.
^ If the vehicle still rattles, remove the spacer and continue with normal troubleshooting.
REPAIR PROCEDURE
A Civic with the R18A1 engine is shown in the illustrations for steps 3, 5, and 6. The repair
procedure is the same for all other Civic engine types.
1. Place a block of wood onto a floor jack, and position it under the oil pan at the end closest to the
engine side mount. Remove the diagnostic spacer.
NOTE:
Adjust the engine height as needed while doing the following steps.
2. On the Si models, remove the clip securing the washer reservoir to the fender and move the
reservoir out of the way.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Drive Belts, Mounts, Brackets and Accessories >
Engine Mount > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Engine Mount: >
06-060 > Dec > 10 > Engine - Rattles From Right Front Of Vehicle > Page 1995
3. Remove the bolt securing the A/C line, then remove the three bolts holding the upper torque rod
in place.
NOTE:
Use new flange bolts when reinstalling the upper torque rod.
4. Push the torque rod toward the rear of the vehicle, and rotate it clockwise 90 degrees so that it is
out of the way.
5. Remove the middle bolt on top of the side engine mount bracket, the bolt holding the ground
cable to the side engine mount bracket, and the bolt and
nut holding the side engine mount bracket to the engine block. Remove the side engine mount
bracket.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Drive Belts, Mounts, Brackets and Accessories >
Engine Mount > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Engine Mount: >
06-060 > Dec > 10 > Engine - Rattles From Right Front Of Vehicle > Page 1996
6. Remove the bolt and bracket holding the ABS brake lines to the engine mount stiffener. Remove
the two bolts holding the engine mount stiffener to
the side engine mount, and the bolt holding the engine mount stiffener to the body. Remove the
engine mount stiffener.
7. Remove the two bolts holding the side engine mount to the frame rail.
8. To make it easier to remove the side engine mount, remove the NC bracket bolt so the NC line
can be gently pulled out of the way.
10. Install the new side engine mount (rubber assembly), then reassemble the other parts in
reverse order.
Disclaimer
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Drive Belts, Mounts, Brackets and Accessories >
Engine Mount > Component Information > Locations > Lower Torque Rod Replacement
Engine Mount: Locations Lower Torque Rod Replacement
2. Raise the vehicle on the lift to full height. 3. Remove the lower torque rod.
4. Install the lower torque rod, then tighten the new lower torque rod mounting bolts in the
numbered sequence shown.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Drive Belts, Mounts, Brackets and Accessories >
Engine Mount > Component Information > Locations > Lower Torque Rod Replacement > Page 1999
5. Lower the vehicle on the lift. 6. Tighten the upper torque rod mounting bolt.
15. Lower the vehicle on the lift. 16. Install the air cleaner assembly. 17. Install the upper torque rod
(A), then tighten the new upper torque rod mounting bolts in the numbered sequence shown.
1. Remove the bolt (A) securing the A/C line, then remove the upper torque rod (B).
2. Install the upper torque rod, then tighten the new bolts in the numbered sequence shown.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Drive Belts, Mounts, Brackets and Accessories >
Engine Mount > Component Information > Locations > Lower Torque Rod Replacement > Page 2001
Engine Mount: Locations Side Engine Mount Bracket Replacement
1. Support the engine with a jack and a wood block under the oil pan. 2. Remove the bolt (A)
securing the A/C line, then remove the upper torque rod (B).
3. Remove the ground cable (A), then remove the side engine mount bracket (B).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Drive Belts, Mounts, Brackets and Accessories >
Engine Mount > Component Information > Locations > Lower Torque Rod Replacement > Page 2002
4. Install the side engine mount bracket, then loosely tighten the new bolt and nut (C), and loosely
tighten the bolt (D). 5. Install the ground cable. 6. Remove the air cleaner assembly. 7. Loosen the
transmission mounting bolt and nuts (A).
8. Raise the vehicle on the lift to full height. 9. Loosen the lower torque rod mounting bolt (A).
10. Lower the vehicle on the lift. 11. Tighten the side engine mount mounting bolts and nut.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Drive Belts, Mounts, Brackets and Accessories >
Engine Mount > Component Information > Locations > Lower Torque Rod Replacement > Page 2003
12. Tighten the transmission mounting bolt and nuts.
13. Raise the vehicle on the lift to full height. 14. Tighten the lower torque rod mounting bolt.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Drive Belts, Mounts, Brackets and Accessories >
Engine Mount > Component Information > Locations > Lower Torque Rod Replacement > Page 2004
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Drive Belts, Mounts, Brackets and Accessories >
Engine Mount > Component Information > Service and Repair > Side Engine Mount Replacement
Engine Mount: Service and Repair Side Engine Mount Replacement
1. Support the engine with a jack and a wood block under the oil pan. 2. Remove the bolt (A)
securing the A/C line, then remove the upper torque rod (B).
3. Remove the ground cable (A), then remove the side engine mount bracket (B).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Drive Belts, Mounts, Brackets and Accessories >
Engine Mount > Component Information > Service and Repair > Side Engine Mount Replacement > Page 2007
4. Remove the side engine mount stiffener (A), then remove the side engine mount (B).
5. Install the side engine mount, then install the side engine mount stiffener. 6. Install the side
engine mount bracket (A), then loosely tighten the new bolt and nut (B). Loosely tighten the bolt
(C).
7. Install the ground cable (D). 8. Remove the air cleaner assembly. 9. Loosen the transmission
mounting bolt and nuts (A).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Drive Belts, Mounts, Brackets and Accessories >
Engine Mount > Component Information > Service and Repair > Side Engine Mount Replacement > Page 2008
10. Raise the vehicle on the lift to full height. 11. Loosen the lower torque rod mounting bolt (A).
12. Lower the vehicle on the lift. 13. Tighten the side engine mount mounting bolts and nut.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Drive Belts, Mounts, Brackets and Accessories >
Engine Mount > Component Information > Service and Repair > Side Engine Mount Replacement > Page 2009
14. Tighten the transmission mounting bolt and nuts.
15. Raise the vehicle on the lift to full height. 16. Tighten the lower torque rod mounting bolt.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Drive Belts, Mounts, Brackets and Accessories >
Engine Mount > Component Information > Service and Repair > Side Engine Mount Replacement > Page 2010
17. Lower the vehicle on the lift. 18. Install the air cleaner assembly. 19. Install the upper torque rod
(A), then tighten the new upper torque rod mounting bolts in the numbered sequence shown.
8. Install the transmission mount with the new mounting bolts (C), then install the transmission
mount stiffener. 9. Loosely tighten the new bolt and nuts (D).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Drive Belts, Mounts, Brackets and Accessories >
Engine Mount > Component Information > Service and Repair > Side Engine Mount Replacement > Page 2012
10. Raise the vehicle on the lift to full height. 11. Loosen the lower torque rod mounting bolt (A).
12. Lower the vehicle on the lift. 13. Tighten the transmission mounting bolt and nuts.
14. Raise the vehicle on the lift to full height. 15. Tighten the lower torque rod mounting bolt.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Drive Belts, Mounts, Brackets and Accessories >
Engine Mount > Component Information > Service and Repair > Side Engine Mount Replacement > Page 2013
16. Lower the vehicle on the lift. 17. Tighten the upper torque rod mounting bolt.
18. Install the under-hood fuse/relay box to the bracket. 19. Install the ECM/PCM bracket. 20.
Install the ECM/PCM, then install the ECM/PCM cover. 21. Install the air cleaner assembly.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Drive Belts, Mounts, Brackets and Accessories >
Engine Mount > Component Information > Service and Repair > Side Engine Mount Replacement > Page 2014
Engine Mount: Service and Repair Side Engine Mount Bracket Replacement
1. Support the engine with a jack and a wood block under the oil pan. 2. Remove the bolt (A)
securing the A/C line, then remove the upper torque rod (B).
3. Remove the ground cable (A), then remove the side engine mount bracket (B).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Drive Belts, Mounts, Brackets and Accessories >
Engine Mount > Component Information > Service and Repair > Side Engine Mount Replacement > Page 2015
4. Install the side engine mount bracket, then loosely tighten the new bolt and nut (C), and loosely
tighten the bolt (D). 5. Install the ground cable. 6. Remove the air cleaner assembly. 7. Loosen the
transmission mounting bolt and nuts (A).
8. Raise the vehicle on the lift to full height. 9. Loosen the lower torque rod mounting bolt (A).
10. Lower the vehicle on the lift. 11. Tighten the side engine mount mounting bolts and nut.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Drive Belts, Mounts, Brackets and Accessories >
Engine Mount > Component Information > Service and Repair > Side Engine Mount Replacement > Page 2016
12. Tighten the transmission mounting bolt and nuts.
13. Raise the vehicle on the lift to full height. 14. Tighten the lower torque rod mounting bolt.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Drive Belts, Mounts, Brackets and Accessories >
Engine Mount > Component Information > Service and Repair > Side Engine Mount Replacement > Page 2017
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Drive Belts, Mounts, Brackets and Accessories >
Engine Mount > Component Information > Service and Repair > Side Engine Mount Replacement > Page 2018
Engine Mount: Service and Repair Lower Torque Rod Replacement
2. Raise the vehicle on the lift to full height. 3. Remove the lower torque rod.
4. Install the lower torque rod, then tighten the new lower torque rod mounting bolts in the
numbered sequence shown.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Drive Belts, Mounts, Brackets and Accessories >
Engine Mount > Component Information > Service and Repair > Side Engine Mount Replacement > Page 2019
5. Lower the vehicle on the lift. 6. Tighten the upper torque rod mounting bolt.
15. Lower the vehicle on the lift. 16. Install the air cleaner assembly. 17. Install the upper torque rod
(A), then tighten the new upper torque rod mounting bolts in the numbered sequence shown.
1. Remove the bolt (A) securing the A/C line, then remove the upper torque rod (B).
2. Install the upper torque rod, then tighten the new bolts in the numbered sequence shown.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Engine Lubrication > Engine Oil Pressure >
Component Information > Specifications
Engine Oil Pressure: Specifications
At Idle ..................................................................................................................................................
......................... 70 kPa (0.7 kgf/cm2, 10 psi) min. At 3,000 rpm ........................................................
....................................................................................................... 340 kPa (3.5 kgf/cm2, 50 psi)
min.
NOTE: If the low oil pressure indicator stays on with the engine running, check the engine oil level.
If the oil level is correct:
1. Remove the engine oil pressure switch, then install an oil pressure gauge (A).
2. Start the engine. Shut it off immediately if the gauge registers no oil pressure. Repair the
problem before continuing. 3. Allow the engine to reach operating temperature (fan comes on at
least twice). The pressure should be:
Engine Oil Pressure: At Idle: 70 kPa (0.7, kgf/cm2, 10 psi) min. At 3,000 rpm: 340 kPa (3.5
kgf/cm2, 50 psi) min.
Engine Oil
API Classification
.................................................................................................................................... Make sure the
label says "For Gasoline Engines". SAE Viscosity ..............................................................................
............................................................................................................................... 5W-20
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Engine Lubrication > Engine Oil > Component
Information > Specifications > Page 2031
Engine Oil: Service and Repair
1. Warm up the engine. 2. Remove the drain bolt (A), and drain the engine oil.
3. Reinstall the drain bolt with a new washer (B). 4. Refill the engine with the recommended oil.
5. '06 4-door model and '07-08 2 and 4-door models: If the maintenance minder indicated to
replace the engine oil, reset the maintenance minder,
then go to step 13. If the maintenance minder did not indicate to replace the engine oil, go to step
6. '06 2-door model: If the maintenance minder indicated to replace the engine oil, reset the
maintenance minder, then go to step 13. If the maintenance minder did not indicate to replace the
engine oil, notify the customer that the maintenance minder term was not reset and the
maintenance minder will indicate to replace the engine oil before it is actually needed.
6. Connect the HDS to the data link connector (DLC). 7. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 8. Make
sure the HDS communicates with the vehicle and the ECM/PCM. If it doesn't communicate,
troubleshoot the DLC circuit. 9. Select BODY ELECTRICAL with the HDS.
10. Select ADJUSTMENT in the GAUGES MENU with the HDS. 11. Select RESET in the
MAINTENANCE MINDER with the HDS. 12. Select RESETTING THE ENGINE OIL LIFE with the
HDS.
NOTE: If you changed the ATF at the same time with the engine oil, select RESETTING THE
ENGINE OIL LIFE AND ATF with the HDS instead.
13. Run the engine for at least 3 minutes, then check for oil leakage.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Engine Lubrication > Engine Oil > Component
Information > Specifications > Page 2032
14. Reset the maintenance information display.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Engine Lubrication > Oil Filter, Engine > Component
Information > Service and Repair
Oil Filter: Service and Repair
1. Remove the oil filter with the oil filter wrench. 2. Inspect the filter to make sure the rubber seal is
not stuck to the oil filter seating surface of the engine. 3. Inspect the threads (A) and rubber seal
(B) on the new filter. Clean the seat on the oil pan, then apply a light coat of new engine oil to the
filter
4. Install the oil filter by hand. 5. After the rubber seal seats, tighten the oil filter clockwise with the
oil filter wrench.
6. If four numbers or marks (1 to 4 or V to VVVV) are printed around the outside of the filter, you
can use the following procedure to tighten the
filter. ^
Spin the filter on until its seal lightly seats against the oil pan, and note which number or mark is at
the bottom.
^ Tighten the filter by turning it clockwise three numbers or marks from the one you noted. For
example, if mark V is at the bottom when the seal is lightly seated, tighten the filter until the mark
VVVV comes around to the bottom.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Engine Lubrication > Oil Filter, Engine > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Page 2036
7. After installation, fill the engine with oil up to the specified level, run the engine for at least 3
minutes, then check for oil leakage.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Engine Lubrication > Oil Filter Adapter > Component
Information > Service and Repair
1. Remove the oil filter. 2. Remove the oil filter feed pipe.
3. Install the two 20 x 1.5 mm nuts (A) onto the new oil filter feed pipe. Hold one nut with a wrench,
then use a second wrench to tighten the other
nut.
4. Tighten the oil filter feed pipe to 49 Nm (5.0 kgf-m, 36 lbf-ft), then remove the nuts from the oil
filter feed pipe. 5. Install the oil filter.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Engine Lubrication > Oil Pan, Engine > Component
Information > Specifications
Oil Pan
Tighten the bolts in three steps. In the final step, tighten all bolts, in sequence, to 18 Nm (1.8 kgf-m,
13 lbf-ft)
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Engine Lubrication > Oil Pan, Engine > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Oil Pan Removal
hoses.
5. Raise the vehicle on the hoist to full height. 6. Remove the splash shield. 7. Drain the engine oil.
8. Remove the exhaust pipe A. 9. Support the oil pan with a jack.
10. Remove the lower torque rod. 11. Remove the jack. 12. Remove the lower torque rod bracket.
15. Remove the clutch cover/torque converter cover (A), and remove the two bolts securing the
transmission.
16. Remove the bolts securing the oil pan. 17. Using a flat blade screwdriver, separate the oil pan
from the block in the places shown.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Engine Lubrication > Oil Pan, Engine > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Oil Pan Removal > Page 2046
1. Remove all of the old liquid gasket from the oil pan mating surfaces, bolts, and bolt holes. 2.
Clean and dry the oil pan mating surfaces. 3. Apply liquid gasket, P/N 08717-00004, 08718-0001,
08718-0003, or 08718-0009, evenly to the engine block mating surface of the oil pan. Install
4. Install the dowel pins (A), then install the oil pan (B) with new O-rings (C).
5. Tighten the bolts in three steps. In the final step, tighten all bolts, in sequence, to 18 Nm (1.8
kgf-m, 13 lbf-ft). Wipe off the excess liquid gasket
10. If the engine is still in the vehicle, do the following steps. 11. Lower the vehicle on the lift. 12.
Loosen the upper torque rod mounting bolt. 13. Raise the vehicle on the lift to full height. 14. Install
the lower torque rod. 15. Lower the vehicle on the lift. 16. Tighten the upper torque rod mounting
bolt. 17. Raise the vehicle on the lift to full height. 18. Install exhaust pipe A.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Engine Lubrication > Oil Pan, Engine > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Oil Pan Removal > Page 2050
19. Lower the vehicle on the lift. 20. Install the A/C compressor. Install the harness clamp, then
connect the A/C compressor clutch connector. 21. Install the A/C condenser fan shroud. 22. Install
the drive belt. 23. Refill the engine with engine oil. 24. Install the splash shield.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Engine Lubrication > Oil Pressure Sender >
Component Information > Locations
Oil Pressure Sender: Locations
1. Remove the cowl cover and under-cowl panel. 2. Disconnect the EOP sensor connector (A).
3. Remove the bracket (B) and the EOP sensor (C). 4. Install the parts in the reverse order of
removal with a new O-ring (D).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Engine Lubrication > Oil Pressure Sensor >
Component Information > Locations
1. Remove the oil pressure switch connector (A) from the engine oil pressure switch (B).
2. Check for continuity between the positive terminal (C) and the engine (ground). There should be
continuity with the engine stopped. There should
1. Disconnect the oil pressure switch connector, then remove the oil pressure switch.
2. Remove any old liquid gasket from the switch and switch mounting hole. 3. Apply very small
amount of liquid gasket to the oil pressure switch threads, then install the oil pressure switch.
NOTE: Using too much liquid gasket may cause liquid gasket to enter the oil passage or the end of
the new oil pressure switch.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Engine Lubrication > Oil Pressure Warning
Lamp/Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions
Oil Pressure Warning Lamp/Indicator: Diagram Information and Instructions
Circuit Schematics
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Engine Lubrication > Oil Pressure Warning
Lamp/Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2068
Circuit Schematics
Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show
current flow, from power at the top of the diagram, to ground at the bottom.
Shared Circuits
Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that
connects one circuit to another, for example, is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it
pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or
component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring, check the operation of a
component it serves. If that component works, you know the shared wiring is OK.
Connectors
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Engine Lubrication > Oil Pressure Warning
Lamp/Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2069
All in-line and junction connectors are numbered (C725, C416, etc.). Component connectors are
not numbered but are identified either by the name of the component if the component only has
one connector, or by a capital letter (A, B, C, etc.) if the component has more than one connector.
Below most connector numbers and component names are PHOTO and VIEW numbers. The
PHOTO number refers to a photo at Vehicle Level Locations that shows the connector's location on
the car. The VIEW number refers to an connector view at the Vehicle Level Connector Views that
shows the connector terminals, wire colors, connector cavity numbers, and other details.
The connector cavity numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector as seen
from either of the viewpoints. Except for the DLC (data link connector), disregard any numbers
molded into the connector housing.
Wires
Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the
stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number "2" next to the male
and female wire terminals at C554, for example, means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector
C554.
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the vehicle. Refer to the Power Distribution Diagram Set to get a more detailed
understanding of how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on. Individual circuit
schematics begin with a fuse. So if Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another
circuit share a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good
and power is available to the inoperative circuit.
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share the same
ground point.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Engine Lubrication > Oil Pressure Warning
Lamp/Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2071
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Engine Lubrication > Oil Pressure Warning
Lamp/Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2072
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Engine Lubrication > Oil Pressure Warning
Lamp/Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2073
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Engine Lubrication > Oil Pressure Warning
Lamp/Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2074
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Engine Lubrication > Oil Pressure Warning
Lamp/Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2075
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Engine Lubrication > Oil Pressure Warning
Lamp/Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2076
How to Identify Connector Terminals
Connector terminals are numbered according to the cavities they are in. The cavities are numbered
starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side or looking at the
female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the
same. All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not
the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the
connector face.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Engine Lubrication > Oil Pressure Warning
Lamp/Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2077
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown above is #6.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Engine Lubrication > Oil Pressure Warning
Lamp/Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2078
The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice
connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for
all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement
terminal availability.
On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged,
replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If
any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it.
Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the
wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the
terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to
make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a
factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS.
Use the tools from Pin Tool Set. First, check the connector that you are about to repair.
- If it has a secondary terminal lock, go to Connectors With a Secondary Lock. A secondary lock,
found on most connectors on some models, is an additional locking device on the connector
housing as a backup for the primary lock on the terminal.
- If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock.
All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the
secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the
connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities.
EXAMPLE A:
EXAMPLE B:
EXAMPLE C:
EXAMPLE D:
2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW
TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE E:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Engine Lubrication > Oil Pressure Warning
Lamp/Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2082
1. Remove the secondary locks.
2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW
TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE F:
3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of
connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary
in size and shape.
EXAMPLE A:
EXAMPLE B:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Engine Lubrication > Oil Pressure Warning
Lamp/Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2084
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE C:
EXAMPLE D:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Engine Lubrication > Oil Pressure Warning
Lamp/Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2085
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE E:
EXAMPLE F:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Engine Lubrication > Oil Pressure Warning
Lamp/Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2086
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE G:
1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct
replacement terminal based on the wire size range
NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part
number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available
through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures.
2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Engine Lubrication > Oil Pressure Warning
Lamp/Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2087
3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the
wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from
the kit.)
NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did,
cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again.
4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the
anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown
in step 3.
6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact.
- If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool
over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the
stops make contact.
- If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully
squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Engine Lubrication > Oil Pressure Warning
Lamp/Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2088
8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the following NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and
start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the
way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure
10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector.
Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too
short or when access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair.
On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged,
replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If
any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it.
1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from
Pin Tool Set.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Engine Lubrication > Oil Pressure Warning
Lamp/Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2089
2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal,
then strip about half of the insulation off that piece.
This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal.
NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will
not nick or cut off any strands of wires.
3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and
same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit
onto the stripped end of the original wire.
5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the
pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more
than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at
the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the
harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make
each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail.
7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends
of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue
NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the
stripper.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Engine Lubrication > Oil Pressure Warning
Lamp/Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2090
8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the
flare begins), and close the crimper handles far
enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click,
squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open.
9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the
wire all the way into the splice connector, and
squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until
the ratchet clicks again.
10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After
crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the
connector.
12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire(s), and shield them with
nonflammable material.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Engine Lubrication > Oil Pressure Warning
Lamp/Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2091
13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the
gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat
evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete
when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube.
NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun.
Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the
wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size)
splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select
the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in
quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures.
Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the
Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching
connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body.
1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Engine Lubrication > Oil Pressure Warning
Lamp/Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2092
2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool.
NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal
because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit.
3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal
with a replacement terminal from the appropriate
Five-Step Troubleshooting
Five-Step Troubleshooting
Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint.
Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
problem area.
Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by
tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground (certain
circuits contain a "How the Circuit Works" Diagram set). Also, trace circuits that share wiring with
the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on,
are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step
1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used
only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely
cause.
Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more
possible causes.
Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple
procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to
make tests at points that are easily accessible.
Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe
procedures.
Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire
problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure
no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur.
Test Equipment
Test Equipment
CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
1O-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up
of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to
various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is
voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital
volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is
between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM).
In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low
resistance means good continuity.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Engine Lubrication > Oil Pressure Warning
Lamp/Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2093
Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a
reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is
affecting the measurement.
To order any test equipment shown, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool
numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin.
Jumper Wire
Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder
connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire
across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse.
To order any test equipment shown, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool
numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin.
Troubleshooting Precautions
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION: -
Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
- Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles.
2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part
Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place.
CAUTION: -
Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Engine Lubrication > Oil Pressure Warning
Lamp/Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2094
- Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-mega
ohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that
contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
Troubleshooting Tests
Troubleshooting Tests
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt
ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest
"OHMS" range.
2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you
want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Engine Lubrication > Oil Pressure Warning
Lamp/Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2095
4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or
no reading (zero), means good continuity.
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem. Circuits must be operating when checking
voltage drop.
1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts
range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage
is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM
voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Engine Lubrication > Oil Pressure Warning
Lamp/Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2096
Oil Pressure Warning Lamp/Indicator: Testing and Inspection Low Oil Pressure Indicator Circuit
Troubleshooting (Open)
1. Connect the Honda Diagnostic System (HDS) to the data link connector (DLC). 2. Turn the
ignition switch to ON (II). 3. Make sure the HDS communicates with the vehicle and the engine
control module (ECM)/powertrain control module (PCM.). If it doesn't
4. Check for DTCs. If a DTC is present, diagnose, and repair the cause before continuing with this
test. 5. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), select PGM-FI, and check the OIL PRESSURE SWITCH
in the DATA LIST with the HDS.
Is "ON" indicated?
NO - Go to step 6.
6. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). 7. Check the oil pressure switch.
YES - Go to step 8.
8. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), and jump the SCS line with the HDS, then turn the ignition
switch to LOCK (0).
NOTE: This step must be done to protect the ECM/PCM from damage.
Is there continuity?
YES - Update the ECM/PCM if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a known-good
ECM/PCM, then recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away with a known-good ECM/PCM,
replace the original ECM/PCM.
NO - Repair open in the wire between the oil pressure switch and the ECM/PCM.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Engine Lubrication > Oil Pressure Warning
Lamp/Indicator > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Low Oil Pressure Indicator Circuit Troubleshooting
(Open) > Page 2099
Oil Pressure Warning Lamp/Indicator: Testing and Inspection Low Oil Pressure Indicator Circuit
Troubleshooting (Short)
1. Connect the Honda Diagnostic System (HDS) to the data link connector (DLC). 2. Turn the
ignition switch to ON (II). 3. Make sure the HDS communicates with the vehicle and the engine
control module (ECM)/powertrain control module (PCM). If it doesn't
4. Check for DTCs. If a DTC is present, diagnose, and repair the cause before continuing with this
test. 5. Start the engine, select PGM-FI, and check the OIL PRESSURE SWITCH in the DATA
LIST with the HDS.
Is "OFF" indicated?
NO - Go to step 6.
6. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). 7. Disconnect the oil pressure switch connector. 8. Start the
engine, and check the OIL PRESSURE SWITCH in the DATA LIST with the HDS.
Is "OFF" indicated?
YES - Go to step 9.
NO - Go to step 11.
11. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), and jump the SCS line with the HDS, then turn the ignition
switch to LOCK (0).
NOTE: This step must be done to protect the ECM/PCM from damage.
12. Disconnect ECM/PCM connector B (44P) and the oil pressure switch connector. 13. Check for
continuity between the oil pressure switch connector and body ground.
Is there continuity?
YES - Repair short to ground in the wire between the oil pressure switch and the ECM/PCM.
NO - Update the ECM/PCM if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a known-good
ECM/PCM, then recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away with a known-good ECM/PCM,
replace the original ECM/PCM.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Engine Lubrication > Oil Pump, Engine > Engine Oil
Pressure > Component Information > Specifications
Engine Oil Pressure: Specifications
At Idle ..................................................................................................................................................
......................... 70 kPa (0.7 kgf/cm2, 10 psi) min. At 3,000 rpm ........................................................
....................................................................................................... 340 kPa (3.5 kgf/cm2, 50 psi)
min.
NOTE: If the low oil pressure indicator stays on with the engine running, check the engine oil level.
If the oil level is correct:
1. Remove the engine oil pressure switch, then install an oil pressure gauge (A).
2. Start the engine. Shut it off immediately if the gauge registers no oil pressure. Repair the
problem before continuing. 3. Allow the engine to reach operating temperature (fan comes on at
least twice). The pressure should be:
Engine Oil Pressure: At Idle: 70 kPa (0.7, kgf/cm2, 10 psi) min. At 3,000 rpm: 340 kPa (3.5
kgf/cm2, 50 psi) min.
1. Remove the oil jet. 2. Inspect the oil jet bolt as follows.
^ Make sure that a 1.1 mm (0.04 in.) diameter drill will go through the oil intake (1.2 mm (0.05 in.)
diameter). Make sure the check ball (A) moves smoothly and has a stroke of about 4.0 mm (0.16
in.).
^ Check the oil jet operation with an air nozzle. It should take at least 310 kPa (3.2 kgf/cm2, 46 psi)
to unseat the check ball.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Engine Lubrication > Oil Spray Jet > Component
Information > Testing and Inspection > Page 2108
1. Remove the crankshaft from the engine block. 2. Remove the oil jet bolts (A), then remove and
discard the oil jets (B).
3. Carefully install the new oil jet, and tighten the oil jet bolt. 4. Install the crankshaft.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Intake Manifold > Component Information >
Specifications
Intake Manifold
Tighten the bolts and nuts in a crisscross pattern in three steps, beginning with the inner bolt.
Throttle Body
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Intake Manifold > Component Information >
Specifications > Page 2112
Intake Manifold
Removal
7. Disconnect the vacuum hose (A), brake booster vacuum hose (B), positive crankcase ventilation
(PCV) hose (C), and power steering (P/S) hose
clamp (D).
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Specifications > Page 2114
8. Remove the engine wire harness connectors and wire harness clamps from the intake manifold.
9. Disconnect the water bypass hoses, then plug the water bypass hoses.
14. Lower the vehicle on the lift. 15. Remove the all intake manifold mounting bolts and nuts, then
remove the intake manifold from the cylinder head.
16. Remove the harness clamps, then remove the intake manifold from the vehicle.
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Specifications > Page 2116
Installation
2. Install the intake manifold (A) with new gaskets (B), and tighten the bolts and nuts in a crisscross
pattern in three steps, beginning with the inner
bolt.
3. Raise the vehicle on the lift to full height. 4. Install the intake manifold bracket (A).
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Specifications > Page 2117
5. Lower the vehicle on the lift. 6. Install the heater hose clamp bracket.
10. Install the vacuum hose (A), brake booster vacuum hose (B), positive crankcase ventilation
(PCV) hose (C), and power steering (P/S) hose clamp
(D).
11. Install the fuel feed hose (A). Use new O-ring (B).
13. Install the cowl panel and under-cowl cover. 14. Install the air cleaner assembly. 15. Clean up
any spilled engine coolant. 16. After installation, check that all tubes, hoses and connectors are
installed correctly. 17. Do the leak Inspection. 18. Refill the radiator with engine coolant, and bleed
the air from the cooling system with the heater valve open.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Lamps and Indicators - Engine > Oil Pressure
Warning Lamp/Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions
Oil Pressure Warning Lamp/Indicator: Diagram Information and Instructions
Circuit Schematics
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Warning Lamp/Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2125
Circuit Schematics
Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show
current flow, from power at the top of the diagram, to ground at the bottom.
Shared Circuits
Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that
connects one circuit to another, for example, is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it
pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or
component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring, check the operation of a
component it serves. If that component works, you know the shared wiring is OK.
Connectors
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Lamps and Indicators - Engine > Oil Pressure
Warning Lamp/Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2126
All in-line and junction connectors are numbered (C725, C416, etc.). Component connectors are
not numbered but are identified either by the name of the component if the component only has
one connector, or by a capital letter (A, B, C, etc.) if the component has more than one connector.
Below most connector numbers and component names are PHOTO and VIEW numbers. The
PHOTO number refers to a photo at Vehicle Level Locations that shows the connector's location on
the car. The VIEW number refers to an connector view at the Vehicle Level Connector Views that
shows the connector terminals, wire colors, connector cavity numbers, and other details.
The connector cavity numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector as seen
from either of the viewpoints. Except for the DLC (data link connector), disregard any numbers
molded into the connector housing.
Wires
Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the
stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number "2" next to the male
and female wire terminals at C554, for example, means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector
C554.
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the vehicle. Refer to the Power Distribution Diagram Set to get a more detailed
understanding of how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on. Individual circuit
schematics begin with a fuse. So if Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another
circuit share a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good
and power is available to the inoperative circuit.
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share the same
ground point.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Lamps and Indicators - Engine > Oil Pressure
Warning Lamp/Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2128
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Warning Lamp/Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2129
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Warning Lamp/Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2130
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
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Warning Lamp/Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2131
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
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Warning Lamp/Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2132
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Lamps and Indicators - Engine > Oil Pressure
Warning Lamp/Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2133
How to Identify Connector Terminals
Connector terminals are numbered according to the cavities they are in. The cavities are numbered
starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side or looking at the
female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the
same. All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not
the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the
connector face.
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Warning Lamp/Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2134
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown above is #6.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Lamps and Indicators - Engine > Oil Pressure
Warning Lamp/Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2135
The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice
connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for
all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement
terminal availability.
On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged,
replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If
any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it.
Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the
wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the
terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to
make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a
factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS.
Use the tools from Pin Tool Set. First, check the connector that you are about to repair.
- If it has a secondary terminal lock, go to Connectors With a Secondary Lock. A secondary lock,
found on most connectors on some models, is an additional locking device on the connector
housing as a backup for the primary lock on the terminal.
- If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock.
All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the
secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the
connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities.
EXAMPLE A:
EXAMPLE B:
EXAMPLE C:
EXAMPLE D:
2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW
TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE E:
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Warning Lamp/Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2139
1. Remove the secondary locks.
2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW
TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE F:
3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of
connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary
in size and shape.
EXAMPLE A:
EXAMPLE B:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Lamps and Indicators - Engine > Oil Pressure
Warning Lamp/Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2141
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE C:
EXAMPLE D:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Lamps and Indicators - Engine > Oil Pressure
Warning Lamp/Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2142
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE E:
EXAMPLE F:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Lamps and Indicators - Engine > Oil Pressure
Warning Lamp/Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2143
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE G:
1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct
replacement terminal based on the wire size range
NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part
number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available
through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures.
2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool.
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Warning Lamp/Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2144
3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the
wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from
the kit.)
NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did,
cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again.
4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the
anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown
in step 3.
6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact.
- If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool
over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the
stops make contact.
- If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully
squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape.
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Warning Lamp/Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2145
8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the following NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and
start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the
way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure
10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector.
Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too
short or when access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair.
On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged,
replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If
any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it.
1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from
Pin Tool Set.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Lamps and Indicators - Engine > Oil Pressure
Warning Lamp/Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2146
2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal,
then strip about half of the insulation off that piece.
This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal.
NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will
not nick or cut off any strands of wires.
3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and
same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit
onto the stripped end of the original wire.
5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the
pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more
than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at
the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the
harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make
each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail.
7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends
of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue
NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the
stripper.
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Warning Lamp/Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2147
8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the
flare begins), and close the crimper handles far
enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click,
squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open.
9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the
wire all the way into the splice connector, and
squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until
the ratchet clicks again.
10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After
crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the
connector.
12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire(s), and shield them with
nonflammable material.
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Warning Lamp/Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2148
13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the
gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat
evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete
when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube.
NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun.
Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the
wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size)
splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select
the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in
quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures.
Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the
Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching
connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body.
1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector.
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Warning Lamp/Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2149
2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool.
NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal
because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit.
3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal
with a replacement terminal from the appropriate
Five-Step Troubleshooting
Five-Step Troubleshooting
Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint.
Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
problem area.
Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by
tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground (certain
circuits contain a "How the Circuit Works" Diagram set). Also, trace circuits that share wiring with
the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on,
are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step
1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used
only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely
cause.
Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more
possible causes.
Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple
procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to
make tests at points that are easily accessible.
Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe
procedures.
Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire
problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure
no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur.
Test Equipment
Test Equipment
CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
1O-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up
of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to
various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is
voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital
volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is
between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM).
In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low
resistance means good continuity.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Lamps and Indicators - Engine > Oil Pressure
Warning Lamp/Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2150
Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a
reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is
affecting the measurement.
To order any test equipment shown, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool
numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin.
Jumper Wire
Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder
connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire
across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse.
To order any test equipment shown, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool
numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin.
Troubleshooting Precautions
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION: -
Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
- Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles.
2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part
Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place.
CAUTION: -
Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Lamps and Indicators - Engine > Oil Pressure
Warning Lamp/Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2151
- Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-mega
ohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that
contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
Troubleshooting Tests
Troubleshooting Tests
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt
ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest
"OHMS" range.
2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you
want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Lamps and Indicators - Engine > Oil Pressure
Warning Lamp/Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2152
4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or
no reading (zero), means good continuity.
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem. Circuits must be operating when checking
voltage drop.
1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts
range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage
is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM
voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Lamps and Indicators - Engine > Oil Pressure
Warning Lamp/Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2153
Oil Pressure Warning Lamp/Indicator: Testing and Inspection Low Oil Pressure Indicator Circuit
Troubleshooting (Open)
1. Connect the Honda Diagnostic System (HDS) to the data link connector (DLC). 2. Turn the
ignition switch to ON (II). 3. Make sure the HDS communicates with the vehicle and the engine
control module (ECM)/powertrain control module (PCM.). If it doesn't
4. Check for DTCs. If a DTC is present, diagnose, and repair the cause before continuing with this
test. 5. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), select PGM-FI, and check the OIL PRESSURE SWITCH
in the DATA LIST with the HDS.
Is "ON" indicated?
NO - Go to step 6.
6. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). 7. Check the oil pressure switch.
YES - Go to step 8.
8. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), and jump the SCS line with the HDS, then turn the ignition
switch to LOCK (0).
NOTE: This step must be done to protect the ECM/PCM from damage.
Is there continuity?
YES - Update the ECM/PCM if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a known-good
ECM/PCM, then recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away with a known-good ECM/PCM,
replace the original ECM/PCM.
NO - Repair open in the wire between the oil pressure switch and the ECM/PCM.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Lamps and Indicators - Engine > Oil Pressure
Warning Lamp/Indicator > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Low Oil Pressure Indicator Circuit
Troubleshooting (Open) > Page 2156
Oil Pressure Warning Lamp/Indicator: Testing and Inspection Low Oil Pressure Indicator Circuit
Troubleshooting (Short)
1. Connect the Honda Diagnostic System (HDS) to the data link connector (DLC). 2. Turn the
ignition switch to ON (II). 3. Make sure the HDS communicates with the vehicle and the engine
control module (ECM)/powertrain control module (PCM). If it doesn't
4. Check for DTCs. If a DTC is present, diagnose, and repair the cause before continuing with this
test. 5. Start the engine, select PGM-FI, and check the OIL PRESSURE SWITCH in the DATA
LIST with the HDS.
Is "OFF" indicated?
NO - Go to step 6.
6. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). 7. Disconnect the oil pressure switch connector. 8. Start the
engine, and check the OIL PRESSURE SWITCH in the DATA LIST with the HDS.
Is "OFF" indicated?
YES - Go to step 9.
NO - Go to step 11.
11. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), and jump the SCS line with the HDS, then turn the ignition
switch to LOCK (0).
NOTE: This step must be done to protect the ECM/PCM from damage.
12. Disconnect ECM/PCM connector B (44P) and the oil pressure switch connector. 13. Check for
continuity between the oil pressure switch connector and body ground.
Is there continuity?
YES - Repair short to ground in the wire between the oil pressure switch and the ECM/PCM.
NO - Update the ECM/PCM if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a known-good
ECM/PCM, then recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away with a known-good ECM/PCM,
replace the original ECM/PCM.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Seals and Gaskets, Engine > Crankshaft Main
Bearing Seal > Component Information > Service and Repair
1. Remove the transmission. 2. M/T model: Remove the pressure plate, clutch disc, and flywheel.
3. A/T model: Remove the drive plate. 4. Remove the transmission end crankshaft oil seal. 5.
Clean and dry the crankshaft oil seal housing. 6. Apply a light coat of multipurpose grease to the
crankshaft and to the lip of the seal. 7. Use the handle driver and oil seal driver attachment to drive
a new oil seal squarely into the engine block to the specified installed height.
8. Measure the distance between the engine block (A) and crankshaft oil seal (B).
9. M/T model: Install the flywheel, clutch disc, and pressure plate.
10. A/T model: Install the drive plate. 11. Install the transmission.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Seals and Gaskets, Engine > Front Crankshaft Seal
> Component Information > Service and Repair > Pulley End Crankshaft Oil Seal Installation
Front Crankshaft Seal: Service and Repair Pulley End Crankshaft Oil Seal Installation
^ Attachment, 60 mm 07LAD-SM40100
1. Using the handle driver and attachment, gently tap in the new oil seal until the driver bottoms on
the oil pump.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Seals and Gaskets, Engine > Front Crankshaft Seal
> Component Information > Service and Repair > Pulley End Crankshaft Oil Seal Installation > Page 2165
Front Crankshaft Seal: Service and Repair Pulley End Crankshaft Oil Seal Installation - In Car
1. Remove the crankshaft pulley. 2. Remove the pulley end crankshaft oil seal. 3. Clean and dry
the crankshaft oil seal housing. 4. Apply a light coat of multipurpose grease to the crankshaft and to
the lip of the seal. 5. Using the oil seal driver, drive in the crankshaft oil seal until the driver bottoms
against the oil pump. When the seal is in place, clean any excess
grease off the crankshaft, and check that the oil seal lip is not distorted.
Timing Cover Gasket: Customer Interest Engine - Oil leak From The Timing Chain Cover
09-021
September 2, 2009
(Supersedes 09-021, dated March 25, 2009, to revise the information marked by the black bars
and asterisks)
*REVISION SUMMARY
A VEHICLES AFFECTED section was added, which now includes 2008 and 2009 models.*
SYMPTOM
There is an engine oil leak coming from the front of the timing chain case cover on the oil pump
assembly.
*VEHICLES AFFECTED*
PROBABLE CAUSE
There was improper cleaning of the timing chain case cover and oil pump housing sealing surfaces
before assembly.
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Remove the timing chain case cover, clean the sealing surfaces, then reseal and reassemble.
REQUIRED MATERIALS
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Seals and Gaskets, Engine > Timing Cover Gasket >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Timing Cover Gasket: > 09-021 > Sep > 09 >
Engine - Oil leak From The Timing Chain Cover > Page 2174
PARTS INFORMATION
Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request
consideration, and get a decision, before starting work.
DIAGNOSIS
Clean the leakage area with a shop towel. Start the engine, and look for new oil leakage from the
area.
^ If you see no signs of leakage, what looked like a leak may have been excess residue from a
previous repair on another part. Continue with normal
troubleshooting.
REPAIR PROCEDURE
1. Raise the vehicle on a lift about 10-12 inches, and make sure it's securely supported. You will be
working under the hood, so make it a comfortable
height from the ground.
2. Support the engine by placing a jack and a wooden block under the oil pan.
^ Online, enter keywords DRIVE BELT, and select Drive Belt Removal/Installation (R18A1 and
R18A4 Engine) from the list.
4. Remove the bolt securing the A/C line, then remove the upper torque rod.
5. Remove the battery ground cable bolt on the side engine mount bracket, and remove the side
engine mount bracket.
6. Remove the timing chain case cover from the oil pump housing.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Seals and Gaskets, Engine > Timing Cover Gasket >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Timing Cover Gasket: > 09-021 > Sep > 09 >
Engine - Oil leak From The Timing Chain Cover > Page 2175
7. Remove the old gasket material, and thoroughly clean and dry the mating surfaces of the timing
chain case cover and the oil pump housing.
8. Apply Hondabond HI evenly to the mating surface of the oil pump housing, following the time
limits in the instructions on the container.
9. Install the timing chain case cover to the oil pump housing.
NOTE:
It is important that you wait 30 minutes before adding oil to the engine. Also, wait 3 hours before
starting the engine to allow time for the Hondabond HI to cure.
Disclaimer
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Seals and Gaskets, Engine > Timing Cover Gasket >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Timing Cover Gasket: > 09-021 >
Sep > 09 > Engine - Oil leak From The Timing Chain Cover
Timing Cover Gasket: All Technical Service Bulletins Engine - Oil leak From The Timing Chain
Cover
09-021
September 2, 2009
(Supersedes 09-021, dated March 25, 2009, to revise the information marked by the black bars
and asterisks)
*REVISION SUMMARY
A VEHICLES AFFECTED section was added, which now includes 2008 and 2009 models.*
SYMPTOM
There is an engine oil leak coming from the front of the timing chain case cover on the oil pump
assembly.
*VEHICLES AFFECTED*
PROBABLE CAUSE
There was improper cleaning of the timing chain case cover and oil pump housing sealing surfaces
before assembly.
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Remove the timing chain case cover, clean the sealing surfaces, then reseal and reassemble.
REQUIRED MATERIALS
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Seals and Gaskets, Engine > Timing Cover Gasket >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Timing Cover Gasket: > 09-021 >
Sep > 09 > Engine - Oil leak From The Timing Chain Cover > Page 2181
PARTS INFORMATION
Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request
consideration, and get a decision, before starting work.
DIAGNOSIS
Clean the leakage area with a shop towel. Start the engine, and look for new oil leakage from the
area.
^ If you see no signs of leakage, what looked like a leak may have been excess residue from a
previous repair on another part. Continue with normal
troubleshooting.
REPAIR PROCEDURE
1. Raise the vehicle on a lift about 10-12 inches, and make sure it's securely supported. You will be
working under the hood, so make it a comfortable
height from the ground.
2. Support the engine by placing a jack and a wooden block under the oil pan.
^ Online, enter keywords DRIVE BELT, and select Drive Belt Removal/Installation (R18A1 and
R18A4 Engine) from the list.
4. Remove the bolt securing the A/C line, then remove the upper torque rod.
5. Remove the battery ground cable bolt on the side engine mount bracket, and remove the side
engine mount bracket.
6. Remove the timing chain case cover from the oil pump housing.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Seals and Gaskets, Engine > Timing Cover Gasket >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Timing Cover Gasket: > 09-021 >
Sep > 09 > Engine - Oil leak From The Timing Chain Cover > Page 2182
7. Remove the old gasket material, and thoroughly clean and dry the mating surfaces of the timing
chain case cover and the oil pump housing.
8. Apply Hondabond HI evenly to the mating surface of the oil pump housing, following the time
limits in the instructions on the container.
9. Install the timing chain case cover to the oil pump housing.
NOTE:
It is important that you wait 30 minutes before adding oil to the engine. Also, wait 3 hours before
starting the engine to allow time for the Hondabond HI to cure.
Disclaimer
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Sensors and Switches - Engine > Oil Pressure
Sender > Component Information > Locations
Oil Pressure Sender: Locations
1. Remove the cowl cover and under-cowl panel. 2. Disconnect the EOP sensor connector (A).
3. Remove the bracket (B) and the EOP sensor (C). 4. Install the parts in the reverse order of
removal with a new O-ring (D).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Sensors and Switches - Engine > Oil Pressure
Sensor > Component Information > Locations
1. Remove the oil pressure switch connector (A) from the engine oil pressure switch (B).
2. Check for continuity between the positive terminal (C) and the engine (ground). There should be
continuity with the engine stopped. There should
1. Disconnect the oil pressure switch connector, then remove the oil pressure switch.
2. Remove any old liquid gasket from the switch and switch mounting hole. 3. Apply very small
amount of liquid gasket to the oil pressure switch threads, then install the oil pressure switch.
NOTE: Using too much liquid gasket may cause liquid gasket to enter the oil passage or the end of
the new oil pressure switch.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Timing Components > Camshaft Gear/Sprocket >
Component Information > Specifications
Camshaft Gear/Sprocket
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Timing Components > Camshaft Gear/Sprocket >
Component Information > Specifications > Page 2201
Camshaft Gear/Sprocket: Service and Repair
Removal
1. Remove the cam chain. 2. Remove the rocker arm assembly. 3. Hold the camshaft with a 27 mm
open-end wrench, then loosen the bolt.
Installation
1. Install the camshaft sprocket. 2. Apply new engine oil to the threads of the camshaft sprocket
mounting bolt, and install it. Hold the camshaft with a 27 mm open-end wrench, then
1. Remove the front wheels. 2. Remove the splash shield. 3. Remove the drive belt auto-tensioner.
4. Remove the cylinder head cover. 5. Set the No. 1 piston at top dead center (TDC). The "UP"
mark (A) on the camshaft sprocket should be at the top, and the TDC grooves (B) on the
camshaft sprocket should line up with the top edge of the head.
7. Remove the crankshaft pulley. 8. Support the engine with a jack and a wood block under the oil
pan. 9. Remove the bolt (A) securing the A/C line, then remove the upper torque rod (B).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Timing Components > Timing Chain > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Cam Chain Removal > Page 2206
10. Remove the ground cable (A), then remove the side engine mount bracket (B).
13. Loosely install the crankshaft pulley. 14. Turn the crankshaft counterclockwise to compress the
auto-tensioner.
15. Align the holes on the lock (A) and the auto-tensioner (B), then insert a 1.0 mm (0.04 in.)
diameter pin (C) into the holes. Turn the crankshaft
17. Remove the crankshaft pulley. 18. Remove the cam chain guide (A) and cam chain tensioner
arm (B).
1. Set the crankshaft to top dead center (TDC). Align the TDC mark (A) on the crankshaft sprocket
with the pointer (B) on the engine block.
2. Set the camshaft to TDC. The "UP" mark (A) on the camshaft sprocket should be at the top, and
the TDC grooves (B) on the camshaft sprocket
3. Install the cam chain on the crankshaft sprocket with the colored piece (A) aligned with the mark
(B) on the crankshaft sprocket.
4. Install the cam chain on the camshaft sprocket with the colored link plate (A) aligned with the
mark (B) on the camshaft sprocket.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Timing Components > Timing Chain > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Cam Chain Removal > Page 2210
5. Install the cam chain guide (A) and cam chain tensioner arm (B).
10. Clean and dry the oil pump mating surfaces. 11. Apply liquid gasket, P/N 08717-0004,
08718-0001, 08718-0003, or 08718-0009, evenly to the engine block mating surface of the oil
pump. Install
12. Apply liquid gasket to the engine block upper surface contact areas (A) on the oil pump and
lower block upper surface contact areas (B) on the oil
pump.
13. Apply liquid gasket, P/N 08717-0004, 08718-0001, 08718-0003, or 08718-0009, evenly to the
oil pan mating surface of the oil pump. Install the
block (D). Loosely install the dowel bolts (E), then tighten the 8 mm bolts (F). Tighten the 6 mm
bolts (G) and dowel bolts. Wipe off the excess liquid gasket on the oil pan and oil pump mating
area.
15. Install the side engine mount bracket (A), then loosely tighten the new bolt and nut (B), and
loosely tighten the bolt (C).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Timing Components > Timing Chain > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Cam Chain Removal > Page 2213
16. Install the ground cable (D). 17. Remove the air cleaner assembly. 18. Loosen the transmission
mounting bolt and nuts (A).
19. Raise the vehicle on the lift to full height. 20. Loosen the lower torque rod mounting bolt (A).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Timing Components > Timing Chain > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Cam Chain Removal > Page 2214
21. Lower the vehicle on the lift. 22. Tighten the side engine mount mounting bolts and nut.
26. Lower the vehicle on the lift. 27. Install the air cleaner assembly. 28. Install the upper torque rod
(A), then tighten the new upper torque rod mounting bolts in the numbered sequence shown.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Timing Components > Timing Chain > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Cam Chain Removal > Page 2216
29. Install the bolt (B) securing the A/C line. 30. Install the crankshaft pulley. 31. Install the positive
crankcase ventilation (PCV) hose.
32. Install the cylinder head cover. 33. Install the drive belt auto-tensioner. 34. Install the splash
shield. 35. Install the front wheels. 36. Do the crankshaft position (CKP) pattern clear/CKP pattern
learn procedure.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Timing Components > Timing Chain Tensioner >
Component Information > Specifications
Auto-Tensioner
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Timing Components > Timing Chain Tensioner >
Component Information > Specifications > Page 2220
Timing Chain Tensioner: Service and Repair
Removal
3. Align the holes on the lock (A) and the auto-tensioner (B), then insert a 1.0 mm (0.04 in.)
diameter pin (C) into the holes. Turn the crankshaft
3. Remove all of the old liquid gasket from the chain case cover mating surfaces, bolts, and bolt
holes. 4. Clean and dry the chain case cover mating surfaces. 5. Apply liquid gasket, P/N
08717-0004, 08718-0001, 08718-0003, or 08718-0009, evenly to the oil pump mating surface of
the chain case cover.
Caution: Incorrect removal or installation of the timing chain can result in damage to internal engine
components.
For complete Timing Chain Removal and Installation information, please refer to Timing Chain;
Service and Repair.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Timing Components > Timing Cover > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Timing Cover: > 09-021 > Sep > 09 > Engine - Oil leak
From The Timing Chain Cover
Timing Cover: Customer Interest Engine - Oil leak From The Timing Chain Cover
09-021
September 2, 2009
(Supersedes 09-021, dated March 25, 2009, to revise the information marked by the black bars
and asterisks)
*REVISION SUMMARY
A VEHICLES AFFECTED section was added, which now includes 2008 and 2009 models.*
SYMPTOM
There is an engine oil leak coming from the front of the timing chain case cover on the oil pump
assembly.
*VEHICLES AFFECTED*
PROBABLE CAUSE
There was improper cleaning of the timing chain case cover and oil pump housing sealing surfaces
before assembly.
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Remove the timing chain case cover, clean the sealing surfaces, then reseal and reassemble.
REQUIRED MATERIALS
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Timing Components > Timing Cover > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Timing Cover: > 09-021 > Sep > 09 > Engine - Oil leak
From The Timing Chain Cover > Page 2234
PARTS INFORMATION
Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request
consideration, and get a decision, before starting work.
DIAGNOSIS
Clean the leakage area with a shop towel. Start the engine, and look for new oil leakage from the
area.
^ If you see no signs of leakage, what looked like a leak may have been excess residue from a
previous repair on another part. Continue with normal
troubleshooting.
REPAIR PROCEDURE
1. Raise the vehicle on a lift about 10-12 inches, and make sure it's securely supported. You will be
working under the hood, so make it a comfortable
height from the ground.
2. Support the engine by placing a jack and a wooden block under the oil pan.
^ Online, enter keywords DRIVE BELT, and select Drive Belt Removal/Installation (R18A1 and
R18A4 Engine) from the list.
4. Remove the bolt securing the A/C line, then remove the upper torque rod.
5. Remove the battery ground cable bolt on the side engine mount bracket, and remove the side
engine mount bracket.
6. Remove the timing chain case cover from the oil pump housing.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Timing Components > Timing Cover > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Timing Cover: > 09-021 > Sep > 09 > Engine - Oil leak
From The Timing Chain Cover > Page 2235
7. Remove the old gasket material, and thoroughly clean and dry the mating surfaces of the timing
chain case cover and the oil pump housing.
8. Apply Hondabond HI evenly to the mating surface of the oil pump housing, following the time
limits in the instructions on the container.
9. Install the timing chain case cover to the oil pump housing.
NOTE:
It is important that you wait 30 minutes before adding oil to the engine. Also, wait 3 hours before
starting the engine to allow time for the Hondabond HI to cure.
Disclaimer
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Timing Components > Timing Cover > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Timing Cover: > 09-021 > Sep > 09 > Engine -
Oil leak From The Timing Chain Cover
Timing Cover: All Technical Service Bulletins Engine - Oil leak From The Timing Chain Cover
09-021
September 2, 2009
(Supersedes 09-021, dated March 25, 2009, to revise the information marked by the black bars
and asterisks)
*REVISION SUMMARY
A VEHICLES AFFECTED section was added, which now includes 2008 and 2009 models.*
SYMPTOM
There is an engine oil leak coming from the front of the timing chain case cover on the oil pump
assembly.
*VEHICLES AFFECTED*
PROBABLE CAUSE
There was improper cleaning of the timing chain case cover and oil pump housing sealing surfaces
before assembly.
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Remove the timing chain case cover, clean the sealing surfaces, then reseal and reassemble.
REQUIRED MATERIALS
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Timing Components > Timing Cover > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Timing Cover: > 09-021 > Sep > 09 > Engine -
Oil leak From The Timing Chain Cover > Page 2241
PARTS INFORMATION
Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request
consideration, and get a decision, before starting work.
DIAGNOSIS
Clean the leakage area with a shop towel. Start the engine, and look for new oil leakage from the
area.
^ If you see no signs of leakage, what looked like a leak may have been excess residue from a
previous repair on another part. Continue with normal
troubleshooting.
REPAIR PROCEDURE
1. Raise the vehicle on a lift about 10-12 inches, and make sure it's securely supported. You will be
working under the hood, so make it a comfortable
height from the ground.
2. Support the engine by placing a jack and a wooden block under the oil pan.
^ Online, enter keywords DRIVE BELT, and select Drive Belt Removal/Installation (R18A1 and
R18A4 Engine) from the list.
4. Remove the bolt securing the A/C line, then remove the upper torque rod.
5. Remove the battery ground cable bolt on the side engine mount bracket, and remove the side
engine mount bracket.
6. Remove the timing chain case cover from the oil pump housing.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Timing Components > Timing Cover > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Timing Cover: > 09-021 > Sep > 09 > Engine -
Oil leak From The Timing Chain Cover > Page 2242
7. Remove the old gasket material, and thoroughly clean and dry the mating surfaces of the timing
chain case cover and the oil pump housing.
8. Apply Hondabond HI evenly to the mating surface of the oil pump housing, following the time
limits in the instructions on the container.
9. Install the timing chain case cover to the oil pump housing.
NOTE:
It is important that you wait 30 minutes before adding oil to the engine. Also, wait 3 hours before
starting the engine to allow time for the Hondabond HI to cure.
Disclaimer
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Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 2243
Circuit Schematics
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Circuit Schematics
Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show
current flow, from power at the top of the diagram, to ground at the bottom.
Shared Circuits
Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that
connects one circuit to another, for example, is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it
pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or
component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring, check the operation of a
component it serves. If that component works, you know the shared wiring is OK.
Connectors
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All in-line and junction connectors are numbered (C725, C416, etc.). Component connectors are
not numbered but are identified either by the name of the component if the component only has
one connector, or by a capital letter (A, B, C, etc.) if the component has more than one connector.
Below most connector numbers and component names are PHOTO and VIEW numbers. The
PHOTO number refers to a photo at Vehicle Level Locations that shows the connector's location on
the car. The VIEW number refers to an connector view at the Vehicle Level Connector Views that
shows the connector terminals, wire colors, connector cavity numbers, and other details.
The connector cavity numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector as seen
from either of the viewpoints. Except for the DLC (data link connector), disregard any numbers
molded into the connector housing.
Wires
Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the
stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number "2" next to the male
and female wire terminals at C554, for example, means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector
C554.
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the vehicle. Refer to the Power Distribution Diagram Set to get a more detailed
understanding of how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on. Individual circuit
schematics begin with a fuse. So if Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another
circuit share a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good
and power is available to the inoperative circuit.
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share the same
ground point.
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How to Identify Connector Terminals
Connector terminals are numbered according to the cavities they are in. The cavities are numbered
starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side or looking at the
female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the
same. All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not
the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the
connector face.
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The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown above is #6.
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The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice
connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for
all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement
terminal availability.
On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged,
replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If
any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it.
Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the
wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the
terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to
make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a
factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS.
Use the tools from Pin Tool Set. First, check the connector that you are about to repair.
- If it has a secondary terminal lock, go to Connectors With a Secondary Lock. A secondary lock,
found on most connectors on some models, is an additional locking device on the connector
housing as a backup for the primary lock on the terminal.
- If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock.
All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the
secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the
connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities.
EXAMPLE A:
EXAMPLE B:
EXAMPLE C:
EXAMPLE D:
2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW
TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE E:
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1. Remove the secondary locks.
2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW
TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE F:
3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of
connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary
in size and shape.
EXAMPLE A:
EXAMPLE B:
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1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE C:
EXAMPLE D:
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Variable Valve Timing Actuator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2267
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE E:
EXAMPLE F:
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1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE G:
1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct
replacement terminal based on the wire size range
NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part
number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available
through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures.
2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool.
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3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the
wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from
the kit.)
NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did,
cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again.
4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the
anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown
in step 3.
6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact.
- If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool
over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the
stops make contact.
- If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully
squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape.
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8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the following NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and
start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the
way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure
10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector.
Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too
short or when access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair.
On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged,
replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If
any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it.
1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from
Pin Tool Set.
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2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal,
then strip about half of the insulation off that piece.
This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal.
NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will
not nick or cut off any strands of wires.
3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and
same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit
onto the stripped end of the original wire.
5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the
pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more
than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at
the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the
harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make
each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail.
7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends
of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue
NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the
stripper.
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8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the
flare begins), and close the crimper handles far
enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click,
squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open.
9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the
wire all the way into the splice connector, and
squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until
the ratchet clicks again.
10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After
crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the
connector.
12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire(s), and shield them with
nonflammable material.
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13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the
gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat
evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete
when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube.
NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun.
Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the
wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size)
splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select
the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in
quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures.
Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the
Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching
connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body.
1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector.
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2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool.
NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal
because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit.
3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal
with a replacement terminal from the appropriate
Five-Step Troubleshooting
Five-Step Troubleshooting
Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint.
Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
problem area.
Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by
tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground (certain
circuits contain a "How the Circuit Works" Diagram set). Also, trace circuits that share wiring with
the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on,
are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step
1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used
only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely
cause.
Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more
possible causes.
Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple
procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to
make tests at points that are easily accessible.
Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe
procedures.
Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire
problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure
no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur.
Test Equipment
Test Equipment
CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
1O-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up
of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to
various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is
voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital
volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is
between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM).
In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low
resistance means good continuity.
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Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a
reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is
affecting the measurement.
To order any test equipment shown, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool
numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin.
Jumper Wire
Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder
connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire
across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse.
To order any test equipment shown, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool
numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin.
Troubleshooting Precautions
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION: -
Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
- Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles.
2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part
Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place.
CAUTION: -
Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
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- Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-mega
ohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that
contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
Troubleshooting Tests
Troubleshooting Tests
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt
ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest
"OHMS" range.
2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you
want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end.
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4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or
no reading (zero), means good continuity.
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem. Circuits must be operating when checking
voltage drop.
1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts
range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage
is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM
voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
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Variable Valve Timing Actuator: Electrical Diagrams
Diagram 31-0
Diagrams: Other diagrams referred to by number (See Diagram ##-#, etc.) within these diagrams
can be found at Diagrams by Number. See: Diagrams/Electrical Diagrams/Diagrams By Number
Locations: Location photographs (references to PHOTOS) referred to within these diagrams can be
found at Locations by Photo Number. See: Locations/Component Locations/Locations By Photo
Number
Connector Views: Connector terminal views (references to VIEWS) referred to within these
diagrams can be found at Connector Views by View
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Number. See: Diagrams/Connector Views/Connector Views By View Number
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VTEC System
- This mechanism improves fuel efficiency and reduces exhaust emissions at all levels of engine
speed, vehicle speed, and engine load.
- The VTEC mechanism changes the valve lift and timing by using more than one cam profile.
- The VTEC system changes the cam profile (angle) at cruising speeds. (Cam angle is changed to
obtain the desired EGR effect and reduce pumping loss).
Operation
- Oil pressure enters secondary rocker arm B from the oil passage in the intake rocker shaft. This
forces the VTEC switching piston into secondary rocker arm A against the return spring and
disengages secondary arm A from secondary arm B to stop valve actuation.
At cruise
The rocker arm oil control valve switches oil pressure to the oil passage in the intake rocker arm
shaft. Oil pressure then enters secondary rocker arm A, and it moves the VTEC switching piston in
the rocker arm.
This causes the VTEC switching piston to slide into secondary rocker arm B, locking secondary
rocker arms A and B together.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Timing Components > Variable Valve Timing >
Variable Valve Timing Actuator > Component Information > Diagrams > Page 2281
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Timing Components > Variable Valve Timing >
Variable Valve Timing Solenoid > Component Information > Locations
Variable Valve Timing Solenoid: Locations
1. Remove the cowl cover and under-cowl panel. 2. Disconnect the rocker arm oil control valve
connector (A) and the EOP sensor connector (B).
3. Remove the rocker arm oil control valve (C). 4. Install the parts in the reverse order of removal
with a new rocker arm oil control valve filter (D).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Fuel
Pressure > System Information > Specifications
Fuel Pressure: Specifications
*at idle, as measured at the Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor, using the HDS or a scantool.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Fuel
Pressure > System Information > Specifications > Page 2292
Fuel Pressure: Service Precautions
WARNING: Adhere to the following procedures any time the fuel system is being worked on in
order to reduce the risk of fire and personal injury:
- Keep a dry chemical (Class B) fire extinguisher near the work area.
- Work in a well-ventilated area. Do not smoke, and keep sparks and open flames away.
- Use caution when working near the catalytic converter to prevent the possibility of burns or fire.
(The temperatures within the converter can exceed 537 °C (1000 °F).
- Relieve the fuel system pressure prior to disconnecting fuel system components.
- Disconnect the negative battery cable except for tests where battery voltage is required.
- After making any fuel system repairs ALWAYS inspect for fuel leaks.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Fuel
Pressure > System Information > Specifications > Page 2293
Fuel Pressure: Testing and Inspection
Fuel pressure can only be checked using the HDS and viewing the FUEL RAIL PRESSURE
SENSOR readings.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Idle
Speed > System Information > Specifications
Idle Speed: Specifications
When the engine is cold, the A/C compressor is on, the transmission is in gear, the brake pedal is
pressed, the power steering load is high, or the alternator is charging, the PCM sends signals to
the throttle actuator to maintain the correct idle speed.
The brake pedal position switch signals the PCM when the brake pedal is pressed.
The PSP switch signals the PCM when the power steering load is high.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Idle
Speed > System Information > Specifications > Page 2298
NOTE:
The malfunction indicator lamp (MIL) has not been reported on, and there are no DTCs.
- Ignition timing
- Sparkplugs
- Air cleaner
- PCV system
- Apply the parking brake, and make sure the headlights are off.
1. Connect the HDS to the data link connector (DLC) (A) located under the driver's side of the
dashboard.
2. Make sure the HDS communicates with the PCM. If it doesn't go to the DLC circuit
troubleshooting. See: Powertrain Management/Computers
3. Start the engine. Hold the engine speed at 3,000 rpm without load (in Park or neutral) until the
radiator fan comes on, then let it idle. 4. Check the idle speed without load conditions: headlights,
blower fan, radiator fan, and air conditioner off.
beam).
NOTE: If the idle speed is not within specification, do the PCM idle learn procedure, If the idle
speed is still not within specification, go to symptom troubleshooting.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Air
Cleaner Housing > Air Filter Element > Component Information > Testing and Inspection
2. Remove the air cleaner element (B) from the air cleaner housing (C). 3. Check the air cleaner
element for damage or clogging. If it is damaged or clogged, replace it.
NOTE: Do not use compressed air to clean the air cleaner element.
4. Install the parts in the reverse order of removal. Clean and remove any debris from inside the air
cleaner. 5. If the maintenance minder required air cleaner element replacement, reset the
maintenance minder.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Air
Cleaner Housing > Air Filter Element > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Page 2303
2. Remove the air cleaner element (B) from the air cleaner housing (C). 3. Check the air cleaner
element for damage or clogging. If it is damaged or clogged, replace it.
NOTE: Do not use compressed air to clean the air cleaner element.
4. Install the parts in the reverse order of removal. Clean and remove any debris from inside the air
cleaner. 5. If the maintenance minder required air cleaner element replacement, reset the
maintenance minder.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Fuel
Filter > Fuel Pressure Release > System Information > Service and Repair
Fuel Pressure Release: Service and Repair
WARNING: Compressed natural gas is flammable and highly explosive. You could be killed or
seriously injured if leaking natural gas is ignited. Stop the engine, and keep heat, sparks and
flames away.
This procedure should be done outside in a well-ventilated area or in a properly equipped CNG
shop.
This procedure will allow you to safely work on any part of the fuel system downstream of the
manual shut-off valve, such as fuel pressure regulator P1 or the fuel injectors.
1. Lift the vehicle, and support it with jackstands. 2. Close the manual shut-off valve (A).
3. Start the engine, and let it idle. After a few minutes, the engine will stall. 4. Turn the ignition
switch OFF.
This procedure will allow you to safely work on any part of the fuel system downstream of the fuel
tank such as the fuel joint block or the manual shut-off valve.
1. Remove the rear seat. 2. Disconnect the fuel subharness 6P connector (A) (this prevents the
tank from supplying fuel to the system).
3. Start the engine, and let it idle. After a few minutes, the engine will stall. 4. Turn the ignition
switch OFF.
This procedure will allow you to safely work on any part of the fuel system between the fuel joint
block and fuel receptacle.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Fuel
Filter > Fuel Pressure Release > System Information > Service and Repair > Page 2308
1. Relieve the fuel pressure between the fuel tank and the manual shut-off valve (see the previous
procedure). 2. Remove the under floor cover (A).
3. Loosen the sealing bolt (A) on the fuel joint block slowly.
4. Turn the fuel stem assembly (B) 1/2-1 turn counterclockwise. 5. Replace the fuel stem assembly
and sealing bolt O-ring (C).
NOTE: This procedure degrades the integrity of the fuel tank. Do it only if you are replacing the fuel
tank.
1. Lift the vehicle and support it with jackstands. 2. Close the manual shut-off valve (A).
3. Start the engine, and let it idle. After a few minutes, the engine will stall.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Fuel
Filter > Fuel Pressure Release > System Information > Service and Repair > Page 2309
4. Turn the ignition switch OFF, and disconnect the negative cable from the battery. 5. Connect a
ground wire (A) (available from AH special tools department) to the fuel line to eliminate any static
electricity.
6. Disconnect the fuel supply pipe (B) from fuel pressure regulator P1 (C). Be careful not to lose the
O-rings.
NOTE: Always use two wrenches when removing or installing the fuel pipe nut.
7. Connect the vent tube to the fuel supply pipe. 8. Secure the other end of the vent tube to the
highest possible location. 9. Remove the fuel pipe duct, and slowly remove the manual lock-down
valve (A). Install the manual override vent tool (B) (available from AH
10. Slowly turn the tool's Allen bolt clockwise until it stops. This opens the line between the fuel
tank and the manual shut-off valve. 11. Open the manual shut-off valve so fuel can vent from the
fuel tank. The fuel tank is empty when the hissing sound goes away. 12. Remove the manual
override vent tool.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Firing
Order > Component Information > Specifications
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Ignition
Timing > System Information > Specifications
Ignition Timing: Specifications
Ignition Timing
M/T:
......................................................................................................................................................... 8
° ± 2 ° BTDC (RED mark (B)) at idle in Neutral A/T:
........................................................................................................................................................... 8
° ± 2 ° BTDC (RED mark (B)) at idle in N or P
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Ignition
Timing > System Information > Specifications > Page 2316
Ignition Timing: Description and Operation
The PCM contains the memory for basic ignition timing at various engine speeds and manifold
absolute pressure. It also adjusts the timing according to engine coolant temperature and intake air
temperature.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Ignition
Timing > System Information > Specifications > Page 2317
Ignition Timing: Testing and Inspection
1. Connect the Honda Diagnostic System (HDS) to the data link connector (DLC). 2. Turn the
ignition switch to ON (II). 3. Make sure the HDS communicates with the vehicle and the ECM/PCM.
If it doesn't communicate, troubleshoot the DLC circuit. 4. Check for DTCs. If a DTC is present,
diagnose and repair the cause before continuing with this test. 5. Start the engine. Hold the engine
speed at 3,000 rpm with no load (in N or P (A/T) or neutral (M/T)) until the radiator fan comes on,
then let it
idle.
6. Check the idle speed. 7. Jump the SCS line with the HDS. 8. Connect the timing light to the No.
1 ignition coil harness.
9. Aim the light toward the pointer (A) on the cam chain case. Check the ignition timing under a no
load condition (headlights, blower fan, rear
10. If the ignition timing differs from the specification, check the cam timing. If the cam timing is OK,
update the engine control module
(ECM)/powertrain control module (PCM) if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a
known-good ECM/PCM, then recheck. If the system works properly, and the ECM/PCM was
substituted, replace the original ECM/PCM.
Torque .................................................................................................................................................
...................................... 25 N.m (2.5 kgf.m, 18 lbf.ft)
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Spark
Plug > Component Information > Specifications > Page 2321
Spark Plug: Application and ID
Spark Plugs
NGK: ....................................................................................................................................................
................................................................ IFR7F8DS
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Spark
Plug > Component Information > Specifications > Page 2322
Spark Plug: Testing and Inspection
1. Remove the spark plugs and inspect the electrodes and ceramic insulator.
- Insufficient cooling
2. If the spark plug electrode is dirty or contaminated, clean the electrode with a plug cleaner.
NOTE: -
Do not use a wire brush or scrape the iridium electrode since this will damage the electrode.
- When using a sand blaster spark plug cleaner, do not clean for more than 20 seconds to avoid
damaging the electrode.
4. Replace the plug at the specified interval, or if the center electrode is rounded (A). Use only the
spark plugs as listed.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Spark
Plug > Component Information > Specifications > Page 2323
5. Apply a small amount of anti-seize compound to the plug threads, and screw the plugs into the
cylinder head, finger-tight. Torque them to 25 N-m
NOTE: After this inspection, you must reset the engine control module (ECM)/powertrain control
module (PCM), otherwise the ECM/PCM will continue to stop the injectors from functioning.
1. Warm up the engine to normal operating temperature (cooling fan comes on). 2. Turn the ignition
switch to LOCK (0). 3. Connect the HDS to the data link connector (DLC). 4. Turn the ignition
switch to ON (II). 5. Make sure the HDS communicates with the vehicle and the ECM/PCM. If it
doesn't communicate, troubleshoot the DLC circuit. 6. Select PGM-FI, INSPECTION, then ALL
INJECTORS OFF function on the HDS. 7. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). 8. Remove the four
ignition coils. 9. Remove the four spark plugs.
11. Open the throttle fully, crank the engine with the starter motor and measure the compression.
13. If the compression is not within specifications, check the following items, then remeasure the
compression.
14. Remove the compression gauge from the spark plug hole. 15. Install the four spark plugs. 16.
Install the four ignition coils. 17. Select ECM/PCM reset to cancel the ALL INJECTORS OFF on the
HDS. 18. Do the ECM/PCM idle learn procedure.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Valve
Clearance > System Information > Specifications
Valve Clearance
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Valve
Clearance > System Information > Specifications > Page 2331
Valve Clearance: Adjustments
NOTE: Adjust the valves only when the cylinder head temperature is less than 100°F (38°C).
1. Remove the cylinder head cover. 2. Set the No. 1 piston at top dead center (TDC). The "UP"
mark (A) on the camshaft sprocket should be at the top, and the TDC grooves (B) on the
camshaft sprocket should line up with the top edge of the head.
3. Select the correct thickness feeler gauge for the valves you're going to check.
4. Insert the feeler gauge (A) between the adjusting screw and the end of the valve stem on No. 1
cylinder and slide it back and forth; you should feel
6. Tighten the locknut, and recheck the clearance. Repeat the adjustment, if necessary. 7. Tighten
the locknut.
8. Recheck the valve clearance. Repeat the adjustment if necessary. 9. Rotate the crankshaft
clockwise. Align the No. 3 piston TDC groove (A) on the camshaft sprocket with the top edge of the
head.
10. Check, and if necessary, adjust the valve clearance on No. 3 cylinder. 11. Rotate the
crankshaft clockwise. Align the No. 4 piston TDC groove (A) on the camshaft sprocket with the top
edge of the head.
12. Check, and if necessary, adjust the valve clearance on No. 4 cylinder. 13. Rotate the
crankshaft clockwise. Align the No. 2 piston TDC groove (A) on the camshaft sprocket with the top
edge of the head.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Valve
Clearance > System Information > Specifications > Page 2333
14. Check, and if necessary, adjust the valve clearance on No. 2 cylinder. 15. Install the cylinder
head cover.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Water Pump > Component Information >
Specifications
Water Pump
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Water Pump > Component Information >
Specifications > Page 2337
Water Pump: Testing and Inspection
4. Turn the water pump counterclockwise. Check that it turns freely. If doesn't turn smoothly,
replace the water pump.
5. Install the water pump pulley. 6. Install the drive belt. 7. Tighten the water pump pulley mounting
bolts to the specified torque.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Water Pump > Component Information >
Specifications > Page 2338
1. Drain the engine coolant. 2. Remove the drive belt auto-tensioner. 3. Remove the water pump
(A) by removing the five bolts.
4. Clean and inspect the O-ring groove and the mating surface of the engine block. 5. Install the
water pump with a new O-ring (B) in the reverse order of removal. 6. Clean up any spilled engine
coolant. 7. Install the drive belt auto-tensioner. 8. Refill the radiator with engine coolant, then bleed
the air from the cooling system.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Coolant > Component Information >
Specifications > Capacity Specifications
Coolant: Capacity Specifications
Coolant Replacement
4-door model
Coolant change
M/T ......................................................................................................................................................
......................................... 1.37 US gal (5.2 L) A/T ..............................................................................
.................................................................................................................. 1.40 US gal (5.3 L)
Overhaul
M/T ......................................................................................................................................................
......................................... 1.72 US gal (6.5 L) A/T ..............................................................................
.................................................................................................................. 1.77 US gal (6.7 L)
2-door model
Coolant change
M/T ......................................................................................................................................................
......................................... 1.37 US gal (5.2 L) A/T ..............................................................................
.................................................................................................................. 1.45 US gal (5.5 L)
Overhaul
M/T ......................................................................................................................................................
......................................... 1.72 US gal (6.5 L) A/T ..............................................................................
.................................................................................................................. 1.88 US gal (7.1 L)
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Coolant > Component Information >
Specifications > Capacity Specifications > Page 2344
Coolant: Fluid Type Specifications
Always use Honda All Season Antifreeze/Coolant Type 2. Using a non-Honda coolant can result in
corrosion, causing the cooling system to malfunction or fail. Honda All Season Antifreeze/Coolant
Type 2 is a mixture of 50 % antifreeze and 50 % water. Premixing is not required.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Coolant > Component Information >
Specifications > Page 2345
Coolant Check
1. Look at the coolant level in the coolant reservoir. Make sure it is between the MAX mark (A) and
MIN mark (B).
2. If the coolant level in the coolant reservoir is at or below the MIN mark, add coolant to bring it
between the MIN and MAX marks, then inspect
Coolant Replacement
1. Start the engine. Set the heater temperature control dial to maximum heat, then turn off the
ignition switch. Make sure the engine and radiator are
2. Remove the radiator cap. 3. Loosen the drain plug (A), and drain the coolant.
4. Remove the drain bolt (A) located at the front of the engine block.
5. After the coolant has drained, apply liquid gasket to the drain bolt threads, then reinstall the bolt
with a new washer and tighten it securely. 6. Tighten the radiator drain plug securely. 7. Remove
the coolant reservoir, then drain the coolant, and reinstall the reserve tank. 8. Fill the coolant
reservoir tank to the MAX mark (A) with Honda Long Life Antifreeze/Coolant Type 2 (P/N
OL999-9001).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Coolant > Component Information >
Specifications > Page 2347
9. Pour Honda Long Life Antifreeze/Coolant Type 2 into the radiator up to the base of the filler
neck.
10. Loosely install the radiator cap. 11. Start the engine, and let it run until it warms up (the radiator
fan comes on at least twice). 12. If the maintenance minder indicated to replace the engine coolant,
reset the maintenance minder, then go to step 20. If the maintenance minder did
1. Drain the engine coolant. 2. Remove the air cleaner assembly. 3. Remove the heater, hose (A)
from the clamp.
4. Disconnect the heater hose (B) and water bypass hose (C). 5. Remove the heater outlet (A).
6. Install the heater outlet with a new gasket (B). 7. Install the other parts in the reverse order of
removal. 8. Refill the radiator with engine coolant, and bleed the air from the cooling system with
the heater valve open.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Radiator Cooling Fan > Radiator Cooling
Fan Control Module Relay > Component Information > Locations
Circuit Schematics
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Radiator Cooling Fan > Radiator Cooling
Fan Motor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2364
Circuit Schematics
Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show
current flow, from power at the top of the diagram, to ground at the bottom.
Shared Circuits
Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that
connects one circuit to another, for example, is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it
pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or
component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring, check the operation of a
component it serves. If that component works, you know the shared wiring is OK.
Connectors
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Radiator Cooling Fan > Radiator Cooling
Fan Motor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2365
All in-line and junction connectors are numbered (C725, C416, etc.). Component connectors are
not numbered but are identified either by the name of the component if the component only has
one connector, or by a capital letter (A, B, C, etc.) if the component has more than one connector.
Below most connector numbers and component names are PHOTO and VIEW numbers. The
PHOTO number refers to a photo at Vehicle Level Locations that shows the connector's location on
the car. The VIEW number refers to an connector view at the Vehicle Level Connector Views that
shows the connector terminals, wire colors, connector cavity numbers, and other details.
The connector cavity numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector as seen
from either of the viewpoints. Except for the DLC (data link connector), disregard any numbers
molded into the connector housing.
Wires
Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the
stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number "2" next to the male
and female wire terminals at C554, for example, means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector
C554.
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the vehicle. Refer to the Power Distribution Diagram Set to get a more detailed
understanding of how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on. Individual circuit
schematics begin with a fuse. So if Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another
circuit share a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good
and power is available to the inoperative circuit.
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share the same
ground point.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Radiator Cooling Fan > Radiator Cooling
Fan Motor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2367
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Radiator Cooling Fan > Radiator Cooling
Fan Motor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2368
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Radiator Cooling Fan > Radiator Cooling
Fan Motor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2369
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Radiator Cooling Fan > Radiator Cooling
Fan Motor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2370
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Radiator Cooling Fan > Radiator Cooling
Fan Motor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2371
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Radiator Cooling Fan > Radiator Cooling
Fan Motor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2372
How to Identify Connector Terminals
Connector terminals are numbered according to the cavities they are in. The cavities are numbered
starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side or looking at the
female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the
same. All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not
the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the
connector face.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Radiator Cooling Fan > Radiator Cooling
Fan Motor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2373
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown above is #6.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Radiator Cooling Fan > Radiator Cooling
Fan Motor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2374
The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice
connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for
all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement
terminal availability.
On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged,
replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If
any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it.
Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the
wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the
terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to
make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a
factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS.
Use the tools from Pin Tool Set. First, check the connector that you are about to repair.
- If it has a secondary terminal lock, go to Connectors With a Secondary Lock. A secondary lock,
found on most connectors on some models, is an additional locking device on the connector
housing as a backup for the primary lock on the terminal.
- If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock.
All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the
secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the
connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities.
EXAMPLE A:
EXAMPLE B:
EXAMPLE C:
EXAMPLE D:
2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW
TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE E:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Radiator Cooling Fan > Radiator Cooling
Fan Motor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2378
1. Remove the secondary locks.
2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW
TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE F:
3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of
connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary
in size and shape.
EXAMPLE A:
EXAMPLE B:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Radiator Cooling Fan > Radiator Cooling
Fan Motor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2380
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE C:
EXAMPLE D:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Radiator Cooling Fan > Radiator Cooling
Fan Motor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2381
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE E:
EXAMPLE F:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Radiator Cooling Fan > Radiator Cooling
Fan Motor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2382
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE G:
1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct
replacement terminal based on the wire size range
NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part
number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available
through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures.
2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Radiator Cooling Fan > Radiator Cooling
Fan Motor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2383
3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the
wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from
the kit.)
NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did,
cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again.
4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the
anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown
in step 3.
6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact.
- If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool
over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the
stops make contact.
- If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully
squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Radiator Cooling Fan > Radiator Cooling
Fan Motor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2384
8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the following NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and
start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the
way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure
10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector.
Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too
short or when access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair.
On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged,
replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If
any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it.
1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from
Pin Tool Set.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Radiator Cooling Fan > Radiator Cooling
Fan Motor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2385
2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal,
then strip about half of the insulation off that piece.
This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal.
NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will
not nick or cut off any strands of wires.
3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and
same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit
onto the stripped end of the original wire.
5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the
pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more
than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at
the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the
harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make
each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail.
7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends
of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue
NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the
stripper.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Radiator Cooling Fan > Radiator Cooling
Fan Motor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2386
8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the
flare begins), and close the crimper handles far
enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click,
squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open.
9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the
wire all the way into the splice connector, and
squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until
the ratchet clicks again.
10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After
crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the
connector.
12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire(s), and shield them with
nonflammable material.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Radiator Cooling Fan > Radiator Cooling
Fan Motor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2387
13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the
gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat
evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete
when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube.
NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun.
Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the
wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size)
splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select
the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in
quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures.
Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the
Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching
connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body.
1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Radiator Cooling Fan > Radiator Cooling
Fan Motor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2388
2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool.
NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal
because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit.
3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal
with a replacement terminal from the appropriate
Five-Step Troubleshooting
Five-Step Troubleshooting
Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint.
Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
problem area.
Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by
tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground (certain
circuits contain a "How the Circuit Works" Diagram set). Also, trace circuits that share wiring with
the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on,
are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step
1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used
only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely
cause.
Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more
possible causes.
Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple
procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to
make tests at points that are easily accessible.
Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe
procedures.
Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire
problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure
no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur.
Test Equipment
Test Equipment
CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
1O-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up
of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to
various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is
voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital
volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is
between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM).
In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low
resistance means good continuity.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Radiator Cooling Fan > Radiator Cooling
Fan Motor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2389
Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a
reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is
affecting the measurement.
To order any test equipment shown, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool
numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin.
Jumper Wire
Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder
connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire
across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse.
To order any test equipment shown, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool
numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin.
Troubleshooting Precautions
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION: -
Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
- Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles.
2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part
Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place.
CAUTION: -
Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Radiator Cooling Fan > Radiator Cooling
Fan Motor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2390
- Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-mega
ohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that
contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
Troubleshooting Tests
Troubleshooting Tests
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt
ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest
"OHMS" range.
2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you
want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Radiator Cooling Fan > Radiator Cooling
Fan Motor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2391
4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or
no reading (zero), means good continuity.
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem. Circuits must be operating when checking
voltage drop.
1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts
range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage
is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM
voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Radiator Cooling Fan > Radiator Cooling
Fan Motor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2392
1. Disconnect the 2P connectors from the radiator fan motor (A) and condenser fan motor (B).
2. Test each motor by connecting battery power to terminal No. 2 and ground to terminal No. 1. 3. If
the motor fails to run, or does not run smoothly, replace it.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Radiator Cooling Fan > Radiator Cooling
Fan Motor Relay > Component Information > Locations
Use this chart to identify the type of relay, then do the test listed for it.
Normally-open type
- There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when battery positive terminal
is connected to the No. 4 terminal, and battery negative terminal is connected to the No. 3 terminal.
- There should be no continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power is
disconnected.
Five-terminal type
- There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when battery positive terminal
is connected to the No. 5 terminal, and battery negative terminal is connected to the No. 3 terminal.
- There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 4 terminals when power is disconnected.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Radiator Cooling Fan > Radiator Cooling
Fan Motor Relay > Component Information > Locations > Page 2398
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Engine - Coolant Temperature
Sensor/Switch > Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer) > Component Information > Locations
ECT sensors 1 and 2 are temperature dependent resistors (thermistors). The resistance decreases
as the engine coolant temperature increases.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Engine - Coolant Temperature
Sensor/Switch > Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer) > Component Information > Service and Repair >
ECT Sensor 1 Replacement
Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer): Service and Repair ECT Sensor 1
Replacement
1. Drain the engine coolant. 2. Disconnect the ECT sensor 1 2P connector (A).
3. Remove ECT sensor 1 (B). 4. Install the parts in the reverse order of removal with a new O-ring
(C), then refill the radiator with engine coolant.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Engine - Coolant Temperature
Sensor/Switch > Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer) > Component Information > Service and Repair >
ECT Sensor 1 Replacement > Page 2406
Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer): Service and Repair ECT Sensor 2
Replacement
1. Drain the engine coolant. 2. Remove the splash shield. 3. Disconnect the ECT sensor 2 2P
connector (A).
4. Remove ECT sensor 2 (B). 5. Install the parts in the reverse order of removal with a new O-ring
(C), then refill the radiator with engine coolant. 6. Install the splash shield.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Radiator > Component Information > Testing
and Inspection
Radiator Test
1. Wait until the engine is cool, then carefully remove the radiator cap, and fill the radiator with
engine coolant to the top of the filler neck. 2. Attach a commercially available pressure tester (A) to
the radiator, and apply a pressure of 93 - 123 kPa (0.95 - 1.25 kgf/cm2, 14 - 18 psi).
3. Inspect for engine coolant leaks, and a drop in pressure. 4. Remove the tester, then reinstall the
radiator cap. 5. Check for engine oil in the coolant and/or coolant in the engine oil.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Radiator > Component Information > Testing
and Inspection > Page 2410
Radiator: Service and Repair
1. Make sure you have the anti-theft code for the audio system or the navigation system (if
equipped), then write down the audio presets. 2. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery,
then disconnect the positive cable. 3. Remove the battery. 4. Drain the engine coolant. 5. Remove
the front grille cover. 6. Disconnect the fan motor connectors (A) and hood switch connector (B),
then remove the harness clamps (C).
7. Remove the reservoir hose (A), radiator cap base mounting bolts (B), clips (C), and radiator
upper brackets (D).
8. Disconnect the upper radiator hose (A) and lower radiator hose (B).
11. Remove the condenser bracket mounting bolts (A), then remove the bulkhead (B).
12. Pull up the radiator, then remove the fan shroud assemblies and other parts from the radiator.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Radiator > Component Information > Testing
and Inspection > Page 2412
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Radiator > Component Information > Testing
and Inspection > Page 2413
13. Install the radiator in the reverse order of removal. Make sure the upper and lower cushions are
set securely. 14. Install the bulkhead in the reverse order of removal. Apply body paint to the
bulkhead mounting bolts. 15. Install the battery, and connect the positive cable to the battery, then
connect the negative cable. 16. Enter the anti-theft code for the audio system or the navigation
system (if equipped), then enter the audio presets. Set the clock. 17. Fill the radiator with engine
coolant and bleed the air.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Radiator Cap > Component Information >
Testing and Inspection
1. Remove the radiator cap (A). Wet the seal with engine coolant, then install it on a commercially
available pressure tester (B).
2. Apply a pressure of 93 - 123 kPa (0.95 - 1.25 kgf/cm2, 14 - 18 psi). 3. Check for a drop in
pressure. 4. If the pressure drops, replace the cap.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Relays and Modules - Cooling System >
Radiator Cooling Fan Control Module Relay > Component Information > Locations
Use this chart to identify the type of relay, then do the test listed for it.
Normally-open type
- There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when battery positive terminal
is connected to the No. 4 terminal, and battery negative terminal is connected to the No. 3 terminal.
- There should be no continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power is
disconnected.
Five-terminal type
- There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when battery positive terminal
is connected to the No. 5 terminal, and battery negative terminal is connected to the No. 3 terminal.
- There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 4 terminals when power is disconnected.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Relays and Modules - Cooling System >
Radiator Cooling Fan Motor Relay > Component Information > Locations > Page 2425
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Sensors and Switches - Cooling System >
Engine - Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch > Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer) > Component
Information > Locations
ECT sensors 1 and 2 are temperature dependent resistors (thermistors). The resistance decreases
as the engine coolant temperature increases.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Sensors and Switches - Cooling System >
Engine - Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch > Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer) > Component
Information > Service and Repair > ECT Sensor 1 Replacement
Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer): Service and Repair ECT Sensor 1
Replacement
1. Drain the engine coolant. 2. Disconnect the ECT sensor 1 2P connector (A).
3. Remove ECT sensor 1 (B). 4. Install the parts in the reverse order of removal with a new O-ring
(C), then refill the radiator with engine coolant.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Sensors and Switches - Cooling System >
Engine - Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch > Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer) > Component
Information > Service and Repair > ECT Sensor 1 Replacement > Page 2434
Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer): Service and Repair ECT Sensor 2
Replacement
1. Drain the engine coolant. 2. Remove the splash shield. 3. Disconnect the ECT sensor 2 2P
connector (A).
4. Remove ECT sensor 2 (B). 5. Install the parts in the reverse order of removal with a new O-ring
(C), then refill the radiator with engine coolant. 6. Install the splash shield.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Thermostat, Engine Cooling > Component
Information > Specifications
Thermostat: Specifications
Standard Thermostat
Thermostat Test
1. Suspend the thermostat (A) in a container of water. Do not let the thermometer (B) touch the
bottom of the hot container.
2. Heat the water, and check the temperature with a thermometer. Check the temperature when
the thermostat first opens, then check the temperature
Standard Thermostat Lift Height: Above 8.0 mm (0.31 in.) Starts Opening: 176 - 183°F (80 - 84°C)
Fully Open: 203°F (95°C)
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Thermostat, Engine Cooling > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Thermostat Replacement
Thermostat Replacement
1. Drain the engine coolant. 2. Remove the harness clamp bracket and thermostat cover, then
remove the thermostat.
3. Install the thermostat with a new rubber seal. 4. Refill the radiator with engine coolant, then
bleed air from the cooling system. 5. Clean up any spilled engine coolant.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Thermostat, Engine Cooling > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Thermostat Replacement > Page 2441
1. Remove the cowl panel and under-cowl cover. 2. Remove the water bypass hoses (A) from the
fuel pressure regulator thermostat, then plug the hoses.
3. Remove the fuel pressure regulator thermostat (B). 4. Install the fuel pressure regulator
thermostat in the reverse order of removal. 5. Install the cowl panel and under-cowl cover. 6. Refill
the radiator with engine coolant, and bleed the air from the cooling system with the heater valve
open.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Thermostat Housing, Engine Cooling >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Thermostat Housing Removal and Installation
Thermostat Housing: Service and Repair Thermostat Housing Removal and Installation
Removal
1. Drain the engine coolant. 2. Remove the air cleaner assembly. 3. Remove the harness bracket
(A), and cover the air fuel ratio (A/F) sensor connector and secondary heated oxygen sensor
(secondary H02S)
connector with a tape to protect the connectors from engine coolant, then disconnect the lower
radiator hose (B), the water bypass hoses (C), and the heater hose (D).
5. Remove the exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) plate (A), thermostat cover (B), and thermostat (C).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Thermostat Housing, Engine Cooling >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Thermostat Housing Removal and Installation > Page 2446
Installation
1. Install the new rubber seal (A) onto the thermostat, then install the thermostat (B) with pin (C) up,
and install the thermostat cover (D).
2. Install the EGR plate (E) with a new gasket (F). 3. Install the thermostat housing (A), using a new
gasket (B) and new O-ring (C).
4. Install the lower radiator hose (A), heater hose (B), and water bypass hoses (C), then install the
harness bracket (D).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Thermostat Housing, Engine Cooling >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Thermostat Housing Removal and Installation > Page 2447
5. Install the air cleaner assembly. 6. Refill the radiator with engine coolant, and bleed the air from
the cooling system with the heater valve open.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Thermostat Housing, Engine Cooling >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Thermostat Housing Removal and Installation > Page 2448
Thermostat Housing: Service and Repair Water Outlet Removal and Installation
Removal
1. Drain the engine coolant. 2. Remove the air cleaner assembly. 3. Remove the air cleaner
housing bracket (A), then remove the harness holder (B) from the cylinder head.
4. Disconnect the engine coolant temperature (ECT) sensor 1 connector (C). 5. Remove the air
cleaner housing bracket (A), upper radiator hose (B), and water bypass hose (C).
1. Remove all of the old liquid gasket from the water outlet mating surfaces, bolts, and bolt holes. 2.
Clean and dry the water outlet mating surfaces. 3. Apply liquid gasket, P/N 08717-0004,
08718-0001, 08718-0003, or 08718-0009, evenly to the cylinder head mating surface of the water
outlet.
4. Install the water outlet (A), then install the ECT sensor 1 (B) with a new O-ring (C).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Thermostat Housing, Engine Cooling >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Thermostat Housing Removal and Installation > Page 2450
5. Install the air cleaner housing bracket (A), upper radiator hose (B), and water bypass hose (C).
7. Install the harness holder (B) on the cylinder head, then install the air cleaner housing bracket
(C). 8. Install the air cleaner assembly. 9. Refill the radiator with engine coolant, and bleed the air
from the cooling system with the heater valve open.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Water Pump > Component Information >
Specifications
Water Pump
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Water Pump > Component Information >
Specifications > Page 2455
Water Pump: Testing and Inspection
4. Turn the water pump counterclockwise. Check that it turns freely. If doesn't turn smoothly,
replace the water pump.
5. Install the water pump pulley. 6. Install the drive belt. 7. Tighten the water pump pulley mounting
bolts to the specified torque.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Water Pump > Component Information >
Specifications > Page 2456
1. Drain the engine coolant. 2. Remove the drive belt auto-tensioner. 3. Remove the water pump
(A) by removing the five bolts.
4. Clean and inspect the O-ring groove and the mating surface of the engine block. 5. Install the
water pump with a new O-ring (B) in the reverse order of removal. 6. Clean up any spilled engine
coolant. 7. Install the drive belt auto-tensioner. 8. Refill the radiator with engine coolant, then bleed
the air from the cooling system.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Exhaust System > Catalytic Converter > Component
Information > Locations
The TWC converts hydrocarbons (HC), carbon monoxide (CO), and oxides of nitrogen (NOx) in the
exhaust gas to carbon dioxide (CO2), nitrogen (N2), and water vapor.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Exhaust System > Catalytic Converter > Component
Information > Locations > Page 2462
1. Remove the A/F sensor (sensor 1), 2. Remove the secondary HO2S (sensor 2), 3. Remove the
cover(A).
4. Remove the TWC (B). 5. Remove the converter cover (C). 6. Install the parts in the reverse
order of removal with a new gaskets (D).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Exhaust System > Exhaust Pipe > Component Information >
Service and Repair
Use this chart to identify the type of relay, then do the test listed for it.
Normally-open type
- There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when battery positive terminal
is connected to the No. 4 terminal, and battery negative terminal is connected to the No. 3 terminal.
- There should be no continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power is
disconnected.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and
Modules - Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 09-047 > Sep > 09 > Engine Controls - MIL ON/Multiple DTCs Set
Engine Control Module: Customer Interest Engine Controls - MIL ON/Multiple DTCs Set
09-0471
MIL Comes On With DTC P0962, P0963, P0966, P0967, P0970, or P0971 (Supersedes 09-047,
dated June 30, 2009, to revise the information marked by asterisks)
*REVISION SUMMARY
^ Under PARTS INFORMATION, you are now referred to the parts catalog for part numbers and
descriptions.
^ Under VEHICLES AFFECTED, the Accord L4, the Civic (except Si), and the CR-V have been
changed to A/T.*
SYMPTOM
PROBABLE CAUSE
VEHICLES AFFECTED
CORRECTIVE ACTION
PARTS INFORMATION
Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request
consideration, and get a decision, before starting work.
DIAGNOSIS
Connect the HDS to the vehicle's DLC, and check for DTCs.
NO - This service bulletin does not apply. Continue with normal troubleshooting.
REPAIR PROCEDURE
^ Online, enter keywords PCM REPLACE, and select ECM/PCM Replacement or PCM
Replacement from the list.
Disclaimer
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and
Modules - Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Engine Control Module: > 03-020 > Apr > 10 > Emissions - OBD II DTC's And
Associated Monitors
Engine Control Module: All Technical Service Bulletins Emissions - OBD II DTC's And Associated
Monitors
03-020
April 2, 2010
*REVISION SUMMARY
Following is a list of all OBD II DTCs and their associated monitors for all Honda automobiles with
OBD II. No one model has every DTC in the list.
Disclaimer
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and
Modules - Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Engine Control Module: > 09-047 > Sep > 09 > Engine Controls - MIL
ON/Multiple DTCs Set
Engine Control Module: All Technical Service Bulletins Engine Controls - MIL ON/Multiple DTCs
Set
09-0471
MIL Comes On With DTC P0962, P0963, P0966, P0967, P0970, or P0971 (Supersedes 09-047,
dated June 30, 2009, to revise the information marked by asterisks)
*REVISION SUMMARY
^ Under PARTS INFORMATION, you are now referred to the parts catalog for part numbers and
descriptions.
^ Under VEHICLES AFFECTED, the Accord L4, the Civic (except Si), and the CR-V have been
changed to A/T.*
SYMPTOM
PROBABLE CAUSE
VEHICLES AFFECTED
CORRECTIVE ACTION
PARTS INFORMATION
Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request
consideration, and get a decision, before starting work.
DIAGNOSIS
Connect the HDS to the vehicle's DLC, and check for DTCs.
NO - This service bulletin does not apply. Continue with normal troubleshooting.
REPAIR PROCEDURE
^ Online, enter keywords PCM REPLACE, and select ECM/PCM Replacement or PCM
Replacement from the list.
Disclaimer
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and
Modules - Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Engine Control Module: > 03-020 > Apr > 10 > Emissions - OBD II DTC's And
Associated Monitors
Engine Control Module: All Technical Service Bulletins Emissions - OBD II DTC's And Associated
Monitors
03-020
April 2, 2010
*REVISION SUMMARY
Following is a list of all OBD II DTCs and their associated monitors for all Honda automobiles with
OBD II. No one model has every DTC in the list.
Disclaimer
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and
Modules - Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Page 2524
Shared Circuits
Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that
connects one circuit to another, for example, is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it
pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or
component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring, check the operation of a
component it serves. If that component works, you know the shared wiring is OK.
Connectors
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and
Modules - Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 2529
All in-line and junction connectors are numbered (C725, C416, etc.). Component connectors are
not numbered but are identified either by the name of the component if the component only has
one connector, or by a capital letter (A, B, C, etc.) if the component has more than one connector.
Below most connector numbers and component names are PHOTO and VIEW numbers. The
PHOTO number refers to a photo at Vehicle Level Locations that shows the connector's location on
the car. The VIEW number refers to an connector view at the Vehicle Level Connector Views that
shows the connector terminals, wire colors, connector cavity numbers, and other details.
The connector cavity numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector as seen
from either of the viewpoints. Except for the DLC (data link connector), disregard any numbers
molded into the connector housing.
Wires
Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the
stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number "2" next to the male
and female wire terminals at C554, for example, means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector
C554.
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the vehicle. Refer to the Power Distribution Diagram Set to get a more detailed
understanding of how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on. Individual circuit
schematics begin with a fuse. So if Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another
circuit share a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good
and power is available to the inoperative circuit.
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share the same
ground point.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and
Modules - Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 2531
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and
Modules - Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 2532
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and
Modules - Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 2533
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and
Modules - Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 2534
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and
Modules - Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 2535
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and
Modules - Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 2536
How to Identify Connector Terminals
How to Identify Connector Terminals
Connector terminals are numbered according to the cavities they are in. The cavities are numbered
starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side or looking at the
female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the
same. All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not
the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the
connector face.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and
Modules - Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 2537
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown above is #6.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and
Modules - Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 2538
The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice
connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for
all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement
terminal availability.
On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged,
replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If
any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it.
Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the
wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the
terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to
make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a
factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS.
Use the tools from Pin Tool Set. First, check the connector that you are about to repair.
- If it has a secondary terminal lock, go to Connectors With a Secondary Lock. A secondary lock,
found on most connectors on some models, is an additional locking device on the connector
housing as a backup for the primary lock on the terminal.
- If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock.
All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the
secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the
connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities.
EXAMPLE A:
2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW
TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE E:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and
Modules - Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 2542
1. Remove the secondary locks.
2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW
TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE F:
All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of
connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary
in size and shape.
EXAMPLE A:
EXAMPLE B:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and
Modules - Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 2544
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE C:
EXAMPLE D:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and
Modules - Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 2545
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE E:
EXAMPLE F:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and
Modules - Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 2546
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE G:
1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct
replacement terminal based on the wire size range
NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part
number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available
through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures.
2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and
Modules - Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 2547
3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the
wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from
the kit.)
NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did,
cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again.
4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the
anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown
in step 3.
6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact.
- If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool
over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the
stops make contact.
- If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully
squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and
Modules - Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 2548
8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the following NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and
start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the
way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure
10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector.
Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too
short or when access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair.
On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged,
replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If
any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it.
1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from
Pin Tool Set.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and
Modules - Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 2549
2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal,
then strip about half of the insulation off that piece.
This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal.
NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will
not nick or cut off any strands of wires.
3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and
same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit
onto the stripped end of the original wire.
5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the
pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more
than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at
the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the
harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make
each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail.
7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends
of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue
NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the
stripper.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and
Modules - Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 2550
8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the
flare begins), and close the crimper handles far
enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click,
squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open.
9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the
wire all the way into the splice connector, and
squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until
the ratchet clicks again.
10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After
crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the
connector.
12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire(s), and shield them with
nonflammable material.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and
Modules - Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 2551
13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the
gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat
evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete
when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube.
NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun.
Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the
wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size)
splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select
the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in
quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures.
Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the
Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching
connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body.
1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and
Modules - Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 2552
2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool.
NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal
because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit.
3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal
with a replacement terminal from the appropriate
Five-Step Troubleshooting
Five-Step Troubleshooting
Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint.
Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
problem area.
Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by
tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground (certain
circuits contain a "How the Circuit Works" Diagram set). Also, trace circuits that share wiring with
the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on,
are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step
1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used
only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely
cause.
Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more
possible causes.
Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple
procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to
make tests at points that are easily accessible.
Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe
procedures.
Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire
problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure
no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur.
Test Equipment
Test Equipment
CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
1O-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up
of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to
various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is
voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital
volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is
between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM).
In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low
resistance means good continuity.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and
Modules - Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 2553
Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a
reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is
affecting the measurement.
To order any test equipment shown, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool
numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin.
Jumper Wire
Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder
connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire
across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse.
To order any test equipment shown, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool
numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin.
Troubleshooting Precautions
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION: -
Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
- Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles.
2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part
Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place.
CAUTION: -
Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and
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Information and Instructions > Page 2554
- Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-mega
ohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that
contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
Troubleshooting Tests
Troubleshooting Tests
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt
ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest
"OHMS" range.
2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you
want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end.
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Modules - Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
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4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or
no reading (zero), means good continuity.
Testing for Voltage Drop
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem. Circuits must be operating when checking
voltage drop.
1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts
range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage
is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM
voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and
Modules - Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 2556
NOTE: The PCM stays on up to 15 minutes after the ignition switch is turned OFF. Jumping the
SCS line after turning the ignition switch OFF cancels this function. Disconnecting the PCM during
this function, without jumping the SCS line first, can damage the PCM.
3. Lift up the under-hood fuse/relay box (D). 4. Remove the coolant reservoir (E). Disconnect PCM
connectors A, B, and C.
NOTE: PCM connectors A, B, and C have symbols (A=Square, B=triangle, C=circle) embossed on
them for identification.
5. When diagnosis/troubleshooting is done at the PCM connector, use the terminal test port (A)
above the terminal you need to check.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and
Modules - Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Testing and Inspection >
How to Troubleshoot Circuits At the PCM > Page 2583
6. Connect one side of the patch cord (A) terminals to a commercially available digital multimeter
(B), and connect the other side of the patch cord
terminals to a commercially available banana jack (Pomona Electronics Tool No. 3563 or
equivalent) (C).
7. Gently contact the pin probe (male) at the terminal test port from the terminal side. Do not force
the tips into the terminals.
NOTE: -
- To prevent damage to the connector terminals, do not insert test equipment probes, paper clips,
or other substitutes as they can damage the terminals. Damaged terminals cause a poor
connection and an incorrect measurement.
- Do not puncture the insulation on a wire. Punctures can cause poor or intermittent electrical
connections.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and
Modules - Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Testing and Inspection >
How to Troubleshoot Circuits At the PCM > Page 2584
ECM Reset
The PCM stores various specific data to correct the system even if there is no electrical power such
as when the battery negative terminal or No. 19 FI MAIN (15 A) fuse are disconnected. Stored data
based on failed parts should be cleared by using the CLEAR COMMAND of the HDS, if parts are
replaced.
The HDS has three kinds of clear commands to meet this purpose. They are DTC clear, PCM
reset, and CKP pattern clear. DTC clear command erases all stored DTC codes, freeze data,
on-board snapshot, and readiness codes. This must be done with the HDS after reproducing the
DTC during troubleshooting.
The PCM reset command erases all stored DTC codes, freeze data, on-board snapshot, readiness
codes, and all specific data to correct the system except CKP pattern. If the CKP pattern data in
the PCM was cleared, you must do the CKP pattern learn procedure. The CKP pattern clear
command erases only CKP pattern data. This command is for repair of a misfire or the CKP
sensor.
If you are using a generic scan tool to clear commands, be aware that there is only one setting for
clearing the PCM, and it clears all commands at the same time (CKP pattern learn, idle learn,
readiness codes, freeze data, on-board snapshot, and DTCs). After you clear all commands, you
then need to do these procedures, in this order: PCM idle learn procedure.; CKP pattern learn
procedure;
DTC Clear
1. Clear the DTC with the HDS while the engine is stopped. 2. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 3. Turn
the ignition switch ON (II), and wait 30 seconds. 4. Turn the ignition switch OFF, and disconnect
the HDS from the DLC.
PCM Reset
NOTE:If the low fuel indicator is blinking, the PCM can not be reset with the HDS. To reset the
PCM, do the low fuel indicator troubleshooting .
1. Reset the PCM with the HDS while the engine is stopped. 2. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 3.
Turn the ignition switch ON (II), and wait 30 seconds. 4. Turn the ignition switch OFF, and
disconnect the HDS from the DLC. 5. Do the PCM idle learn procedure,
CKP Pattern Clear/CKP Pattern Learn Clear/Learn Procedure (with the HDS)
1. Connect the HDS to the data link connector (DLC) (A) located under the driver's side of the
dashboard.
2. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). 3. Make sure the HDS communicates with the PCM and other
vehicle systems. If it doesn't, go to the DLC circuit troubleshooting. See: Computers
4. Select CRANK PATTERN in the ADJUSTMENT MENU with the HDS. 5. Select CRANK
PATTERN LEARNING with the HDS, and follow the screen prompts.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and
Modules - Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Service and Repair >
Procedures > Page 2594
1. Start the engine. Hold the engine speed at 3,000 rpm without load (in Park or neutral) until the
radiator fan comes on. 2. Test-drive the vehicle on a level road: Decelerate (with the throttle fully
closed) from an engine speed of 2,500 rpm down to 1,000 rpm with the
transmission in 2 position.
3. Test-drive the vehicle on a level road: Decelerate (with the throttle fully closed) from an engine
speed of 5,000 rpm down to 3,000 rpm with the
transmission in 2 position.
4. Repeat step 2 and 3 several times. 5. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 6. Turn the ignition switch
ON (II), and wait 30 seconds.
1. Reset the PCM with the HDS. 2. Do the PCM idle learn procedure. 3. Turn the ignition switch
OFF. 4. Disconnect the HDS from the DLC.
NOTE: The PCM is part of the immobilizer system. If you replace the PCM, it will have a different
immobilizer code. In order for the engine to start, you must rewrite the immobilizer code with the
HDS.
- Honda interface module (HIM) and an iN workstation with HDS and CM update software
- HDS pocket tester
- GNA600 and an iN workstation with HDS and CM update software Use any one of these update
tools.
NOTE: -
Use this procedure when you need to update the PCM during a troubleshooting procedures.
- Before you update the PCM, make sure the battery in the vehicle is fully charged, and connect a
jumper battery (not a battery charger) to maintain system voltage.
- Never turn the ignition switch OFF during the update. If there is a problem with the update, leave
the ignition switch ON.
- To prevent PCM damage, do not operate anything electrical (headlights, audio system, brakes,
A/C, power windows, moonroof (if equipped), door locks, etc.) during the update.
- To ensure the latest program is installed, do PCM update whenever the PCM is substituted or
replaced.
- You cannot update PCM with a program it already has. It will only accept a new program.
- High temperature in the engine compartment might cause the PCM to become too hot to run the
update. If the engine has been running before this procedure, open the hood and cool the engine
compartment.
- If you need to diagnose the Honda interface module (HIM) because the HIM's red (# 3) light came
on or was flashed during the update, leave the ignition switch in the ON (II) position when you
disconnect the HIM from the data link connector (DLC). This will prevent PCM damage.
1. Turn the ignition switch ON (II), but do not start the engine.
2. Connect the HDS to the data link connector (DLC) (A) located under the driver's side of the
dashboard. 3. Make sure the HDS communicates with the PCM and other vehicle systems. If it
doesn't, go to the DLC circuit troubleshooting. See: Computers
the DLC circuit troubleshooting, skip steps 4 and 5 and clean the throttle body after updating the
PCM.
4. Select the INSPECTION MENU with the HDS. 5. Select the ETCS TEST, then select the TP
POSITION CHECK and follow the screen prompts with the HDS.
6. Exit the HDS, then select the update function and follow the screen prompts to update the PCM.
7. If the software in the PCM is the latest, disconnect the HDS/HIM from the DLC, and go back to
the procedure that you were doing. If the software
in the PCM is not the latest, follow the instructions on the screen. If prompted to choose the
PGM-FI system or the A/T system, make sure you update both.
NOTE: If the PCM update system requires you to cool the PCM, follow what is shown in the
screen. If you run into a problem (programming takes over 15 minutes, status bar goes over 100 %,
D or immobilizer light flashes, HDS tablet freezes, etc.) during the update procedure, follow these
steps to minimize the chance of damaging the PCM. -
- Reconnect the HDS to the DLC, and try the update procedure again.
8. If the TP POSITION CHECK failed in step 5, clean the throttle body, 9. Do the PCM idle learn
procedure,
- Honda interface module (HIM) and an iN workstation with HDS and CM update software
- GNA600 and an iN workstation with HDS and CM update software Use any one of these update
tools.
NOTE: Use this procedure when you need to substitute a known-good PCM during troubleshooting
procedures.
1. Make sure you have the anti-theft codes for the radio and the navigation system (if equipped).
2. Connect the HDS to the data link connector (DLC) (A) located under the driver's side of the
dashboard. 3. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). 4. Make sure the HDS communicates with the PCM
and other vehicle systems. If it doesn't, go to the DLC circuit troubleshooting. See: Computers
5. Select the INSPECTION MENU with the HDS. 6. Select the ETCS TEST, then select the TP
POSITION CHECK and follow the screen prompts.
10. Remove the bolts (D), then remove the PCM (E). 11. Disconnect PCM connectors A, B, and C.
NOTE: PCM connectors A, B, and C have symbols (A=Square, B=Triangle, C=Circle) embossed
on them for identification.
12. Install the PCM and the battery in the reverse order of removal. 13. Turn the ignition switch ON
(II).
NOTE: DTC P0630 "VIN Not Programmed or Mismatch" may be stored because the VIN has not
been programmed into the PCM; ignore it, and continue this procedure.
14. Manually input the VIN to the PCM with the HDS. 15. Update the PCM if it does not have the
latest software. 16. Select the IMMOBI SYSTEM with the HDS. 17. Enter the immobilizer code with
the PCM replacement procedure in the HDS; it allows you to start the engine. 18. Reset the PCM
with the HDS. 19. If the TP POSITION CHECK failed in step 7, clean the throttle body. 20. Do the
PCM idle learn procedure. 21. Do the CKP pattern learn procedure. 22. Enter the anti-theft codes
for the radio and the navigation system (if equipped) and set the clock.
The idle learn procedure must be done so the ECM/PCM can learn the engine idle characteristics.
1. Make sure all electrical items (A/C, audio, lights, etc.) are off. 2. Reset the ECM/PCM with the
HDS. 3. Turn the ignition switch ON (II), and wait 2 seconds. 4. Start the engine. Hold the engine
speed at 3,000 rpm without load (in Park or neutral) until the radiator fan comes on, or until the
engine coolant
5. Let the engine idle for about 5 minutes with the throttle fully closed.
NOTE: If the radiator fan comes on, do not include its running time in the 5 minutes.
6. Verify on the HDS data list that the idle learn procedure is complete.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and
Modules - Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Service and Repair >
Procedures > Page 2598
ECM/PCM Replacement
- Honda interface module (HIM) and an iN workstation with HDS and CM update software
NOTE: -
Make sure the HDS is loaded with the latest software version.
- If you are replacing the ECM/PCM after substituting a known-good ECM/PCM, reinstall the
original ECM/PCM, then do this procedure.
- During the procedure, is any READ DATA, WRITE DATA, or other data checks fail, note the
failure, then continue.
1. Make sure you have the anti-theft code for the audio system or the navigation system (if
equipped), then write down the audio presets. 2. Connect the HDS to the data link connector (DLC)
(A) located under the driver's side of the dashboard.
3. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). 4. Make sure the HDS communicates with the ECM/PCM and
other vehicle systems. If it doesn't, go to the DLC circuit troubleshooting. See:
5. USA, Canada models: Select the PGM-FI system with the HDS. 6. USA, Canada models: Select
the INSPECTION MENU with the HDS. 7. USA, Canada models: Select the ETCS TEST, then
select the TP POSITION CHECK, and follow the screen prompts.
NOTE: If the TP POSITION CHECK indicates FAILED, continue with this procedure.
8. USA, Canada models: Select the REPLACE ECM/PCM MENU, then READ DATA, and follow
the screen prompts.
NOTE: -
Doing this step copies (READS) the engine oil life data from the original ECM/PCM so you can
later download (WRITES) it into the new ECM/PCM.
9. USA, Canada models A/T: Select the A/T system with the HDS.
10. USA, Canada models A/T: Select the REPLACE TCM/PCM MENU, then READ DATA, and
follow the screen prompts.
NOTE: -
Doing this step copies (READS) the ATF life data from the original PCM so you can later download
(WRITES) it into the new PCM.
11. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 12. Remove the battery. 13. Remove the cover (A).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
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Modules - Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Service and Repair >
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14. Remove the bolts (D), then remove the ECM/PCM (E).
16. Install the ECM/PCM and the battery in the reverse order of removal. 17. Turn the ignition
switch ON (II). 18. USA, Canada models: Manually input the VIN to the ECM/PCM with the HDS:
NOTE: DTC P0630 "VIN Not Programmed or Mismatch" may be stored because the VIN has not
been programmed into the ECM/PCM; ignore it, and continue this procedure.
19. USA, Canada models: If the READ DATA (engine oil life) failed in step 8, go to step 22 (A/T
model) or step 25 (M/T model). Otherwise, go to
step 20.
20. USA, Canada models: Select the PGM-FI system with the HDS. 21. USA, Canada models:
Select the REPLACE ECM/PCM MENU, then WRITE DATA, and follow the screen prompts.
NOTE: If the WRITE DATA indicates FAILED, continue with this procedure.
22. USA, Canada models A/T: If the READ DATA (ATF life) failed in step 10, go to step 25.
Otherwise go to step 23. 23. USA, Canada models A/T: Select the A/T SYSTEM with the HDS. 24.
USA, Canada models A/T: Select the REPLACE TCM/PCM MENU, then WRITE DATA, and follow
the screen prompts.
NOTE: If the WRITE DATA indicates FAILED, continue with this procedure.
25. Select IMMOBI system with the HDS. 26. Enter the immobilizer code with the ECM/PCM
replacement procedure in the HDS; it allows you to start the engine. 27. USA, Canada models: If
the TP POSITION CHECK failed in step 7 clean the throttle body, then go to step 28. 28. USA,
Canada models: If the READ DATA failed in step 8 or the WRITE DATA failed in step 21, replace
the engine oil and engine oil filter, then
29. USA, Canada models: If the READ DATA failed in step 10 or the WRITE DATA failed in step
24, replace the ATF, then go to step 30. 30. Select PGM-FI system, and reset the ECM/PCM with
the HDS. 31. Update the ECM/PCM if it does not have the latest software. 32. Do the ECM/PCM
idle learn procedure.
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Modules - Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Service and Repair >
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33. Do the CKP pattern learn procedure. 34. Enter the anti-theft code for the audio or the
navigation system (if equipped), then set the clock (if needed).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and
Modules - Computers and Control Systems > Fuel Injector Driver Module (CNG) > Component Information > Locations
Fuel Injector Driver Module (CNG): Locations
Use this chart to identify the type of relay, then do the test listed for it.
Normally-open type
- There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when battery positive terminal
is connected to the No. 4 terminal, and battery negative terminal is connected to the No. 3 terminal.
- There should be no continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power is
disconnected.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and
Modules - Computers and Control Systems > Fuel Injector Driver Module (CNG) > Component Information > Locations >
Page 2610
1. Remove the passenger's dashboard undercover, 2. Remove the right kick panel, 3. Disconnect
the injector control module connector (A).
4. Remove the injector control module (B). 5. Install the parts in the reverse order of removal.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and
Modules - Computers and Control Systems > Main Relay (Computer/Fuel System) > Component Information > Locations
PGM-FI main relay 1 is energized whenever the ignition switch is ON (II) to supply battery voltage
to the PCM, and power for the injector control module relay and the ETCS control relay.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and
Modules - Computers and Control Systems > Main Relay (Computer/Fuel System) > Component Information > Locations >
Page 2616
Main Relay (Computer/Fuel System): Testing and Inspection
Power Relay Test
Use this chart to identify the type of relay, then do the test listed for it.
Normally-open type
- There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when battery positive terminal
is connected to the No. 4 terminal, and battery negative terminal is connected to the No. 3 terminal.
- There should be no continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power is
disconnected.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and
Modules - Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Injector Driver Module (CNG) > Component Information > Locations
Fuel Injector Driver Module (CNG): Locations
Use this chart to identify the type of relay, then do the test listed for it.
Normally-open type
- There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when battery positive terminal
is connected to the No. 4 terminal, and battery negative terminal is connected to the No. 3 terminal.
- There should be no continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power is
disconnected.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and
Modules - Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Injector Driver Module (CNG) > Component Information > Locations >
Page 2627
1. Remove the passenger's dashboard undercover, 2. Remove the right kick panel, 3. Disconnect
the injector control module connector (A).
4. Remove the injector control module (B). 5. Install the parts in the reverse order of removal.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and
Modules - Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Shut-off Solenoid Relay > Component Information > Locations
267. Fuel Shut-off Solenoid Valve Relay (GX) And Starter Control Relay (GX)
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
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Modules - Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Shut-off Solenoid Relay > Component Information > Locations > Page
2634
Fuel Shut-off Solenoid Relay: Testing and Inspection
Power Relay Test
Use this chart to identify the type of relay, then do the test listed for it.
Normally-open type
- There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when battery positive terminal
is connected to the No. 4 terminal, and battery negative terminal is connected to the No. 3 terminal.
- There should be no continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power is
disconnected.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and
Modules - Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Main Relay (Computer/Fuel System) > Component Information > Locations
PGM-FI main relay 1 is energized whenever the ignition switch is ON (II) to supply battery voltage
to the PCM, and power for the injector control module relay and the ETCS control relay.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and
Modules - Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Main Relay (Computer/Fuel System) > Component Information > Locations >
Page 2640
Main Relay (Computer/Fuel System): Testing and Inspection
Power Relay Test
Use this chart to identify the type of relay, then do the test listed for it.
Normally-open type
- There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when battery positive terminal
is connected to the No. 4 terminal, and battery negative terminal is connected to the No. 3 terminal.
- There should be no continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power is
disconnected.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and
Modules - Ignition System > Ignition Relay > Component Information > Locations
NO - Replace the fuse. If the fuse continues to blow, locate and repair the short in the circuit
between the under-hood fuse/relay box and the ignition coils.
2. Remove the ignition coil relay from the under-hood fuse/relay box, and test it.
YES - Go to step 3.
3. Measure the voltage between ignition coil relay 4P socket terminal No. 2 and body ground, then
terminal No. 4 and body ground.
YES - Go to step 4.
4. Check for continuity between each ignition coil relay 4P socket terminal No. 1 and the each
ignition coil 3P connector terminal No. 3.
Is there continuity?
YES - Go to step 5.
NO - Repair open in the wire between ignition coil relay 4P socket terminal No. 1 and ignition coil
3P connector terminal No. 3.
5. Check for continuity between each ignition coil 3P connector terminal No. 2 and the body
ground.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and
Modules - Ignition System > Ignition Relay > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Ignition Coil Relay Circuit >
Page 2650
Is there continuity?
YES - Go to step 6.
NO - Repair open in the wire between ignition coil 3P connector terminal No. 2 and the body
ground.
6. Connect the Honda Diagnostic System (HDS) to the data link connector (DLC). 7. Turn the
ignition switch to ON (II). 8. Make sure the HDS communicates with the vehicle and the engine
control module (ECM)/powertrain control module (PCM). If it doesn't
9. Jump the SCS line with the HDS, then turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0).
NOTE: This step must be done to protect the ECM/PCM from damage.
10. Disconnect ECM/PCM connector A (44P). 11. Check for continuity between ignition coil relay
4P socket terminal No. 3 and body ground.
Is there continuity?
YES - Repair short in the wire between ignition coil relay 4P socket terminal No. 3 and the
ECM/PCM (A6).
NO - Go to step 12.
12. Check for continuity between ignition coil relay 4P socket terminal No. 3 and ECM/PCM
connector terminal A6.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and
Modules - Ignition System > Ignition Relay > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Ignition Coil Relay Circuit >
Page 2651
Is there continuity?
YES - The system is OK at this time. Check for loose or poor connections at the ignition coil relay
and the ECM/PCM (A6).
NO - Repair open in the wire between ignition coil relay 4P socket terminal No. 3 and the
ECM/PCM (A6).
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and
Modules - Ignition System > Ignition Relay > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Ignition Coil Relay Circuit >
Page 2652
Ignition Relay: Testing and Inspection Power Relay
Power Relay Test
Use this chart to identify the type of relay, then do the test listed for it.
Normally-open type
- There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when battery positive terminal
is connected to the No. 4 terminal, and battery negative terminal is connected to the No. 3 terminal.
- There should be no continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power is
disconnected.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor > Component Information > Locations
The throttle is electronically controlled by the electronic throttle control system. Refer to the system
diagram to see a functional layout of the system.
Idle control: When the engine is idling, the PCM controls the throttle actuator to maintain the proper
idle speed according to engine loads.
Acceleration control: When the accelerator pedal is pressed, the PCM opens the throttle valve
depending on the accelerator pedal position (APP) sensor signal.
Cruise control: The PCM controls the throttle actuator to maintain set speed when the cruise
control is operating. The throttle actuator takes the place of the cruise control actuator.
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Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor > Component Information > Description
and Operation > Electronic Throttle Control System > Page 2662
Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor: Description and Operation Accelerator Pedal Position (APP)
Sensor
As the accelerator pedal position changes, the sensor varies the signal voltage to the PCM.
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Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor > Component Information > Description
and Operation > Page 2663
NOTE:
- This procedure checks the APP sensor in its fully closed position. In any other position, the APP
sensor stores DTCs which are covered in other troubleshooting procedures.
- Check for Temporary DTCs or DTCs with the HDS before doing this procedure. If any DTCs are
indicated, troubleshoot them first, then do this procedure.
- Press the accelerator pedal several times to check its operation. If it does not operate smoothly,
check the pedal. If you find a problem, replace the accelerator pedal module.
1. Connect the HDS to the data link connector (DLC) (A) located under the driver's side of the
dashboard.
2. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). 3. Make sure the HDS communicates with the ECM/PCM. If it
doesn't, go to the DLC circuit troubleshooting. See: Computers and Control
4. Make sure the accelerator pedal is not pressed, then check the APP SENSOR in the DATA LIST
with the HDS.
- If it is not 0 %, update the ECM/PCM if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a
known-good ECM/PCM, then go to step 5.
5. Make sure the accelerator pedal is not pressed, then check the APP SENSOR in the DATA LIST
with the HDS.
- If it is 0 %, the APP sensor is OK.
NOTE: The APP sensor is not available separately. Do not disassemble the accelerator pedal
module.
50. Left Side Of Engine Comp. (DX, DX-G, LX, GX, EX)
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Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Air Flow Meter/Sensor > Component Information > Locations > Page 2668
The mass airflow (MAF) sensor/intake air temperature (IAT) sensor contains a hot wire and a
thermistor. It is located in the intake air passage. The resistance of the hot wire and thermistor
changes due to intake air temperature and airflow. The control circuit in the MAF sensor controls
the current to keep the hot wire at a set temperature. The current is converted to voltage in the
control circuit, then output to the PCM.
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2. Remove the bolts (B). 3. Remove the MAF sensor/IAT sensor (C). 4. Install the parts in the
reverse order of removal with a new O-ring (D).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
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Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Barometric Pressure Sensor > Component Information > Description and
Operation
Barometric Pressure Sensor: Description and Operation
Barometric Pressure (BARO) Sensor
The BARO sensor is inside the PCM. It converts atmospheric pressure into a voltage signal that
modifies the basic duration of the fuel injection discharge.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Camshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Locations
The CMP sensor detects the position of the No. 1 cylinder as a reference for sequential fuel
injection to each cylinder.
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Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Camshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Service and Repair >
CMP Sensor Replacement
1. Remove the cowl cover and under-cowl panel. 2. Disconnect the CMP sensor 3P connector (A).
3. Remove the CMP sensor (B). 4. Install the parts in the reverse order of removal with a new
O-ring (C).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
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Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Camshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Service and Repair >
CMP Sensor Replacement > Page 2683
Camshaft Position Sensor: Service and Repair CMP Pulse Plate Removal and Installation
CMP Pulse Plate Removal and Installation
Removal
1. Remove the air cleaner assembly. 2. Remove the air cleaner housing bracket (A), then remove
the harness holder (B) from the cylinder head.
3. Remove the rocker arm assembly. 4. Remove the camshaft thrust cover.
5. Hold the camshaft with a 27 mm open-end wrench, then loosen the bolt.
2. Hold the camshaft with a 27 mm open-end wrench, then tighten the bolt.
3. Install the camshaft thrust cover (A) with a new O-ring (B).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
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Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Camshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Service and Repair >
CMP Sensor Replacement > Page 2685
4. Install the rocker arm assembly. 5. Install the harness holder (A) on the cylinder head, then
install the air cleaner housing bracket (B).
6. Install the air cleaner assembly.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer) > Component
Information > Locations
ECT sensors 1 and 2 are temperature dependent resistors (thermistors). The resistance decreases
as the engine coolant temperature increases.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
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Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer) > Component
Information > Service and Repair > ECT Sensor 1 Replacement
Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer): Service and Repair ECT Sensor 1
Replacement
1. Drain the engine coolant. 2. Disconnect the ECT sensor 1 2P connector (A).
3. Remove ECT sensor 1 (B). 4. Install the parts in the reverse order of removal with a new O-ring
(C), then refill the radiator with engine coolant.
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Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer) > Component
Information > Service and Repair > ECT Sensor 1 Replacement > Page 2692
Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer): Service and Repair ECT Sensor 2
Replacement
1. Drain the engine coolant. 2. Remove the splash shield. 3. Disconnect the ECT sensor 2 2P
connector (A).
4. Remove ECT sensor 2 (B). 5. Install the parts in the reverse order of removal with a new O-ring
(C), then refill the radiator with engine coolant. 6. Install the splash shield.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Locations
The CKP sensor detects crankshaft speed and is used by the PCM to determine ignition timing and
timing for fuel injection of each cylinder as well as detecting engine misfire.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Locations > Page
2699
Crankshaft Position Sensor: Service and Repair
CKP Sensor Replacement
1. Remove the splash shield; 2-door, 4-door. 2. Disconnect the CKP sensor 3P connector (A).
3. Remove the CKP sensor (B). 4. Install the parts in the reverse order of removal with a new
O-ring (C). 5. Do the CKP pattern clear/CKP pattern learn procedure below.
1. Connect the HDS to the data link connector (DLC) (A) located under the driver's side of the
dashboard.
2. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). 3. Make sure the HDS communicates with the ECM/PCM and
other vehicle systems. If it doesn't, go to the DLC circuit troubleshooting. See:
4. Select CRANK PATTERN in the ADJUSTMENT MENU with the HDS. 5. Select CRANK
PATTERN LEARNING with the HDS, and follow the screen prompts.
1. Start the engine. Hold the engine speed at 3,000 rpm without load (in Park or neutral) until the
radiator fan comes on. 2. Test-drive the vehicle on a level road: Decelerate (with the throttle fully
closed) from an engine speed of 2,500 rpm down to 1,000 rpm with the
3. Test-drive the vehicle on a level road: Decelerate (with the throttle fully closed) from an engine
speed of 5,000 rpm down to 3,000 rpm with the
1. Remove the ECM/PCM. 2. Remove the under-hood fuse/relay box. 3. Remove the screw (A).
5. Turn the housing over again. Using two flat-tip screwdrivers, release the tabs (A), and pry up the
fuse/relay box base (B) from the fuse/relay box
housing (C).
NOTE: Make sure the terminals (D) are not bent or damaged.
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Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Electric Load Sensor > Component Information > Locations > Page 2705
6. Remove the ELD (A).
1. Remove the fuel tank unit. 2. Remove the fuel level sensor (fuel sending unit) (A) from the fuel
tank unit (B).
- When connecting the wire harness, make sure the connection is secure and the connectors (C)
are firmly locked into place.
- When installing the fuel gauge sending unit, make sure the connection is secure. Be careful not to
bend or twist it excessively.
4. Install the parts in the reverse order of removal. When installing the fuel tank unit, align the
marks on the unit and the fuel tank.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor > Component Information > Locations
The FTP sensor converts fuel tank absolute pressure into an electrical input to the ECM/PCM.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
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Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor > Component Information > Locations > Page
2714
1. Remove the fuel joint block. 2. Remove the FTP sensor (A).
3. Apply silicone oil or polyalkyleneglycol (PAG) oil to a new O-ring (B) and carefully install it into its
proper position. 4. Install the parts in the reverse order of removal. 5. Do the leak inspection
procedure.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
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Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor (CNG) > Component Information > Locations
1. Remove the fuel joint block. 2. Remove the FTT sensor (A).
3. Apply silicone oil or polyalkyleneglycol (PAG) oil to a new O-ring (B) and carefully install it into its
proper position. 4. Install the parts in the reverse order of removal. 5. Do the leak inspection
procedure.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Intake Air Temperature Sensor > Component Information > Locations
50. Left Side Of Engine Comp. (DX, DX-G, LX, GX, EX)
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Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Intake Air Temperature Sensor > Component Information > Locations > Page
2725
The mass airflow (MAF) sensor/intake air temperature (IAT) sensor contains a hot wire and a
thermistor. It is located in the intake air passage. The resistance of the hot wire and thermistor
changes due to intake air temperature and airflow. The control circuit in the MAF sensor controls
the current to keep the hot wire at a set temperature. The current is converted to voltage in the
control circuit, then output to the PCM.
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2728
2. Remove the bolts (B). 3. Remove the MAF sensor/IAT sensor (C). 4. Install the parts in the
reverse order of removal with a new O-ring (D).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Knock Sensor > Component Information > Locations
Knock Sensor
The knock control system adjusts the ignition timing to minimize knock.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
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Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Knock Sensor > Component Information > Locations > Page 2735
1. Remove the intake manifold. 2. Disconnect the knock sensor 1P connector (A).
3. Remove the knock sensor (B). 4. Install the parts in the reverse order of removal.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Manifold Pressure/Vacuum Sensor > Component Information > Locations
The MAP sensor converts manifold absolute pressure into electrical signals to the PCM.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Manifold Pressure/Vacuum Sensor > Component Information > Locations >
Page 2742
1. Remove the cowl cover and under-cowl panel. 2. Disconnect the MAP sensor 3P connector (A).
3. Remove the MAP sensor (B). 4. Install the parts in the reverse order of removal with a new
O-ring (C).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Oil Pressure Sensor > Component Information > Locations
1. Remove the oil pressure switch connector (A) from the engine oil pressure switch (B).
2. Check for continuity between the positive terminal (C) and the engine (ground). There should be
continuity with the engine stopped. There should
1. Disconnect the oil pressure switch connector, then remove the oil pressure switch.
2. Remove any old liquid gasket from the switch and switch mounting hole. 3. Apply very small
amount of liquid gasket to the oil pressure switch threads, then install the oil pressure switch.
NOTE: Using too much liquid gasket may cause liquid gasket to enter the oil passage or the end of
the new oil pressure switch.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Oxygen Sensor > Component Information > Locations > Component
Locations
PGM-FI System Component Location Index
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Oxygen Sensor > Component Information > Locations > Component
Locations > Page 2752
Oxygen Sensor: Description and Operation Air Fuel Ratio (A/F) Sensor
The A/F sensor operates over a wide air/fuel range. The A/F sensor is installed upstream of the
TWC, and sends signals to the PCM which varies the duration of fuel injection accordingly.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Oxygen Sensor > Component Information > Description and Operation > Air
Fuel Ratio (A/F) Sensor > Page 2756
The secondary HO2S detects the oxygen content in the exhaust gas downstream of the three way
catalytic converter (TWC), and sends signals to the PCM which varies the duration of fuel injection
accordingly. To stabilize its output, the sensor has an internal heater. The PCM compares the
HO2S output with the A/F sensor output to determine catalyst efficiency. The secondary HO2S is
located on the TWC.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Oxygen Sensor > Component Information > Service and Repair > A/F Sensor
Replacement
1. Disconnect the A/F sensor 4P connector (A), then remove the A/F sensor (B).
1. Disconnect the secondary HO2S 4P connector (A), then remove the secondary HO2S (B).
The PSP switch signals the PCM when the power steering load is high.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Power Steering Pressure Switch > Component Information > Locations >
Page 2766
1. Start the engine, and let it idle. 2. Align the steering wheel straight ahead. 3. Check the PSP
SWITCH in the DATA LIST with the HDS.
YES - Go to step 4.
NO - Go to step 14.
4. Turn the steering wheel to the full lock position. 5. Check the PSP SWITCH in the DATA LIST
with the HDS.
NO - Go to step 6.
6. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 7. Disconnect the PSP switch 2P connector. 8. Start the engine. 9.
Check the PSP SWITCH in the DATA LIST with the HDS.
NO - Go to step 10.
10. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 11. Jump the SCS line with the HDS. 12. Disconnect ECM/PCM
connector A (44P). 13. Check for continuity between PSP switch 2P connector terminal No. 1 and
body ground.
Is there continuity?
YES - Repair short in the wire between the ECM/PCM (A22) and the PSP switch.
NO - Update the ECM/PCM if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a known-good
ECM/PCM, then recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away with a known-good ECM/PCM,
replace the original ECM/PCM.
14. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 15. Disconnect the PSP switch 2P connector. 16. Connect PSP
switch 2P connector terminals No. 1 and No. 2 with a jumper wire, then start the engine.
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Page 2767
17. Check the PSP SWITCH in the DATA LIST with the HDS.
Does it change to ON?
NO - Go to step 18.
18. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 19. Remove the jumper wire from the PSP switch 2P connector.
20. Jump the SCS line with the HDS. 21. Disconnect ECM/PCM connector A (44P). 22. Connect
PSP switch 2P connector terminal No. 1 to body ground with a jumper wire.
23. Check for continuity between body ground and ECM/PCM connector terminal A22.
Is there continuity?
NO - Repair open in the wire between the PSP switch and the ECM/PCM (A22).
24. Check for continuity between PSP switch 2P connector terminal No. 2 and body ground.
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Page 2768
Is there continuity?
YES - Update the ECM/PCM if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a known-good
ECM/PCM, then recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away with a known-good ECM/PCM,
replace the original ECM/PCM.
NO - Repair open in the wire between the PSP switch and G401.
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Page 2769
1. Remove the air cleaner assembly and the intake air duct. 2. Disconnect the transmission range
switch harness connector (A).
3. Check for continuity between terminals at the harness connector. There should be continuity
between the terminals in the following table for each
switch position.
4. Transmission range switch test is completed if the test results are OK.
5. Raise the vehicle on a lift, or apply the parking brake, block the rear wheels, and raise the front
of the vehicle. Make sure it is securely supported. 6. Remove the transmission range switch cover.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
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Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information >
Locations > Page 2782
7. Disconnect the transmission range switch connector.
8. Check for continuity between terminals at the switch connector. There should be continuity
between the terminals in the following table for each
switch position.
9. If the transmission range switch test is OK, replace the faulty transmission range switch harness.
10. Remove the transmission range switch, and check the end of the selector control shaft (A).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
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Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information >
Locations > Page 2783
11. If the measurement at the end of the selector control shaft end is within the standard, replace
the transmission range switch. If the measurement is
out of the standard, repair the selector control shaft end, and recheck the transmission range
switch continuity.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information >
Locations > Page 2784
Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: Service and Repair
Transmission Range Switch Replacement
1. Raise the vehicle on a lift, or apply the parking brake, block the rear wheels, and raise the front
of the vehicle. Make sure it is securely supported. 2. Shift the shift lever to N. 3. Remove the
transmission range switch cover.
5. Make sure the selector control shaft is in the N position. If necessary, move the shift lever to the
N position from the P position.
6. Align the cutouts (A) on the rotary-frame with the neutral positioning cutouts (B) on the
transmission range switch (C), then put a 2.0 mm (0.08
in.) feeler gauge blade (D) in the cutouts to hold the switch in the N position.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
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Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information >
Locations > Page 2785
7. Install the transmission range switch (A) gently on the selector control shaft (B) while holding it in
the N position with the 2.0 mm (0.08 in.) blade
(C).
8. Tighten the bolts on the transmission range switch while you continue holding the N position. Do
not move the transmission range switch when
9. Check the connectors for rust, dirt, or oil, clean or repair if necessary, then connect the
connector securely.
10. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). Move the shift lever through all positions, and check the
transmission range switch synchronization with the
11. Check that the engine will start in P and N, and will not start in any other shift lever position. 12.
Check that the back-up lights come on when the shift lever is in R. 13. Allow the front wheels to
rotate freely, then start the engine, and check the shift lever operation. 14. Install the transmission
range switch cover.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
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Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information >
Locations > Page 2786
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor > Component Information > Locations
The throttle is electronically controlled by the electronic throttle control system. Refer to the system
diagram to see a functional layout of the system.
Idle control: When the engine is idling, the PCM controls the throttle actuator to maintain the proper
idle speed according to engine loads.
Acceleration control: When the accelerator pedal is pressed, the PCM opens the throttle valve
depending on the accelerator pedal position (APP) sensor signal.
Cruise control: The PCM controls the throttle actuator to maintain set speed when the cruise
control is operating. The throttle actuator takes the place of the cruise control actuator.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor > Component Information > Description and
Operation > Electronic Throttle Control System > Page 2795
Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor: Description and Operation Accelerator Pedal Position (APP)
Sensor
As the accelerator pedal position changes, the sensor varies the signal voltage to the PCM.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
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Operation > Page 2796
NOTE:
- This procedure checks the APP sensor in its fully closed position. In any other position, the APP
sensor stores DTCs which are covered in other troubleshooting procedures.
- Check for Temporary DTCs or DTCs with the HDS before doing this procedure. If any DTCs are
indicated, troubleshoot them first, then do this procedure.
- Press the accelerator pedal several times to check its operation. If it does not operate smoothly,
check the pedal. If you find a problem, replace the accelerator pedal module.
1. Connect the HDS to the data link connector (DLC) (A) located under the driver's side of the
dashboard.
2. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). 3. Make sure the HDS communicates with the ECM/PCM. If it
doesn't, go to the DLC circuit troubleshooting. See: Computers and Control
4. Make sure the accelerator pedal is not pressed, then check the APP SENSOR in the DATA LIST
with the HDS.
- If it is not 0 %, update the ECM/PCM if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a
known-good ECM/PCM, then go to step 5.
5. Make sure the accelerator pedal is not pressed, then check the APP SENSOR in the DATA LIST
with the HDS.
- If it is 0 %, the APP sensor is OK.
NOTE: The APP sensor is not available separately. Do not disassemble the accelerator pedal
module.
50. Left Side Of Engine Comp. (DX, DX-G, LX, GX, EX)
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The mass airflow (MAF) sensor/intake air temperature (IAT) sensor contains a hot wire and a
thermistor. It is located in the intake air passage. The resistance of the hot wire and thermistor
changes due to intake air temperature and airflow. The control circuit in the MAF sensor controls
the current to keep the hot wire at a set temperature. The current is converted to voltage in the
control circuit, then output to the PCM.
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2. Remove the bolts (B). 3. Remove the MAF sensor/IAT sensor (C). 4. Install the parts in the
reverse order of removal with a new O-ring (D).
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Switches - Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pressure Sensor/Switch > Component Information > Locations
Fuel Pressure Sensor/Switch: Service and Repair Fuel Pressure Switch Replacement
1. Remove fuel pressure regulator P1. 2. Remove the fuel pressure switch (A).
3. Apply silicone oil or polyalkyleneglycol (PAG) oil to a new O-ring (B) and carefully install it into its
proper position. 4. Install the parts in the reverse order of removal. 5. Do the leak inspection
procedure.
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Switches - Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pressure Sensor/Switch > Component Information > Service and Repair >
Fuel Pressure Switch Replacement > Page 2812
Fuel Pressure Sensor/Switch: Service and Repair Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor Replacement
1. Relieve fuel pressure between the engine and the manual shut-off valve. 2. Remove the cowl
cover and under-cowl panel, 3. Remove the fuel feed hose (A).
4. Remove the fuel rail pressure sensor (B). 5. Apply silicone oil or polyalkyleneglycol (PAG) oil to a
new O-ring (C) and carefully install it into its proper position. 6. Install the parts in the reverse order
of removal. 7. Do the leak inspection procedure.
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Switches - Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Temperature Sensor > Component Information > Locations
Fuel Temperature Sensor: Locations
1. Relieve fuel pressure between the engine and the manual shut-off valve. 2. Remove the cowl
cover and under-cowl panel, 3. Disconnect the fuel temperature sensor connector (A).
4. Remove the fuel temperature sensor (B). 5. Apply silicone oil or polyalkyleneglycol (PAG) oil to a
new O-ring (C) and carefully install it into its proper position. 6. Install the parts in the reverse order
of removal. 7. Do the leak inspection procedure.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Throttle Position Sensor > Component Information > Locations
The CMP sensor detects the position of the No. 1 cylinder as a reference for sequential fuel
injection to each cylinder.
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Switches - Ignition System > Camshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Service and Repair > CMP Sensor
Replacement
1. Remove the cowl cover and under-cowl panel. 2. Disconnect the CMP sensor 3P connector (A).
3. Remove the CMP sensor (B). 4. Install the parts in the reverse order of removal with a new
O-ring (C).
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Replacement > Page 2833
Camshaft Position Sensor: Service and Repair CMP Pulse Plate Removal and Installation
CMP Pulse Plate Removal and Installation
Removal
1. Remove the air cleaner assembly. 2. Remove the air cleaner housing bracket (A), then remove
the harness holder (B) from the cylinder head.
3. Remove the rocker arm assembly. 4. Remove the camshaft thrust cover.
5. Hold the camshaft with a 27 mm open-end wrench, then loosen the bolt.
2. Hold the camshaft with a 27 mm open-end wrench, then tighten the bolt.
3. Install the camshaft thrust cover (A) with a new O-ring (B).
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4. Install the rocker arm assembly. 5. Install the harness holder (A) on the cylinder head, then
install the air cleaner housing bracket (B).
6. Install the air cleaner assembly.
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Switches - Ignition System > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Locations
The CKP sensor detects crankshaft speed and is used by the PCM to determine ignition timing and
timing for fuel injection of each cylinder as well as detecting engine misfire.
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Crankshaft Position Sensor: Service and Repair
1. Remove the splash shield; 2-door, 4-door. 2. Disconnect the CKP sensor 3P connector (A).
3. Remove the CKP sensor (B). 4. Install the parts in the reverse order of removal with a new
O-ring (C). 5. Do the CKP pattern clear/CKP pattern learn procedure below.
1. Connect the HDS to the data link connector (DLC) (A) located under the driver's side of the
dashboard.
2. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). 3. Make sure the HDS communicates with the ECM/PCM and
other vehicle systems. If it doesn't, go to the DLC circuit troubleshooting. See:
4. Select CRANK PATTERN in the ADJUSTMENT MENU with the HDS. 5. Select CRANK
PATTERN LEARNING with the HDS, and follow the screen prompts.
1. Start the engine. Hold the engine speed at 3,000 rpm without load (in Park or neutral) until the
radiator fan comes on. 2. Test-drive the vehicle on a level road: Decelerate (with the throttle fully
closed) from an engine speed of 2,500 rpm down to 1,000 rpm with the
3. Test-drive the vehicle on a level road: Decelerate (with the throttle fully closed) from an engine
speed of 5,000 rpm down to 3,000 rpm with the
Circuit Schematics
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Circuit Schematics
Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show
current flow, from power at the top of the diagram, to ground at the bottom.
Shared Circuits
Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that
connects one circuit to another, for example, is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it
pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or
component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring, check the operation of a
component it serves. If that component works, you know the shared wiring is OK.
Connectors
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All in-line and junction connectors are numbered (C725, C416, etc.). Component connectors are
not numbered but are identified either by the name of the component if the component only has
one connector, or by a capital letter (A, B, C, etc.) if the component has more than one connector.
Below most connector numbers and component names are PHOTO and VIEW numbers. The
PHOTO number refers to a photo at Vehicle Level Locations that shows the connector's location on
the car. The VIEW number refers to an connector view at the Vehicle Level Connector Views that
shows the connector terminals, wire colors, connector cavity numbers, and other details.
The connector cavity numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector as seen
from either of the viewpoints. Except for the DLC (data link connector), disregard any numbers
molded into the connector housing.
Wires
Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the
stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number "2" next to the male
and female wire terminals at C554, for example, means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector
C554.
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the vehicle. Refer to the Power Distribution Diagram Set to get a more detailed
understanding of how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on. Individual circuit
schematics begin with a fuse. So if Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another
circuit share a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good
and power is available to the inoperative circuit.
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share the same
ground point.
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Switches - Ignition System > Ignition Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions >
Page 2859
How to Identify Connector Terminals
How to Identify Connector Terminals
Connector terminals are numbered according to the cavities they are in. The cavities are numbered
starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side or looking at the
female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the
same. All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not
the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the
connector face.
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The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown above is #6.
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The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice
connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for
all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement
terminal availability.
On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged,
replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If
any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it.
Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the
wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the
terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to
make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a
factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS.
Use the tools from Pin Tool Set. First, check the connector that you are about to repair.
- If it has a secondary terminal lock, go to Connectors With a Secondary Lock. A secondary lock,
found on most connectors on some models, is an additional locking device on the connector
housing as a backup for the primary lock on the terminal.
- If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock.
All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the
secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the
connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities.
EXAMPLE A:
2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW
TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE E:
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1. Remove the secondary locks.
2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW
TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE F:
All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of
connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary
in size and shape.
EXAMPLE A:
EXAMPLE B:
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1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE C:
EXAMPLE D:
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1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE E:
EXAMPLE F:
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1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE G:
1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct
replacement terminal based on the wire size range
NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part
number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available
through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures.
2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool.
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3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the
wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from
the kit.)
NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did,
cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again.
4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the
anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown
in step 3.
6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact.
- If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool
over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the
stops make contact.
- If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully
squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape.
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8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the following NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and
start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the
way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure
10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector.
Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too
short or when access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair.
On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged,
replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If
any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it.
1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from
Pin Tool Set.
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2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal,
then strip about half of the insulation off that piece.
This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal.
NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will
not nick or cut off any strands of wires.
3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and
same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit
onto the stripped end of the original wire.
5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the
pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more
than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at
the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the
harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make
each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail.
7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends
of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue
NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the
stripper.
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8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the
flare begins), and close the crimper handles far
enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click,
squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open.
9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the
wire all the way into the splice connector, and
squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until
the ratchet clicks again.
10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After
crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the
connector.
12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire(s), and shield them with
nonflammable material.
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13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the
gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat
evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete
when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube.
NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun.
Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the
wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size)
splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select
the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in
quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures.
Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the
Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching
connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body.
1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector.
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2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool.
NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal
because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit.
3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal
with a replacement terminal from the appropriate
Five-Step Troubleshooting
Five-Step Troubleshooting
Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint.
Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
problem area.
Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by
tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground (certain
circuits contain a "How the Circuit Works" Diagram set). Also, trace circuits that share wiring with
the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on,
are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step
1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used
only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely
cause.
Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more
possible causes.
Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple
procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to
make tests at points that are easily accessible.
Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe
procedures.
Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire
problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure
no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur.
Test Equipment
Test Equipment
CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
1O-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up
of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to
various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is
voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital
volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is
between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM).
In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low
resistance means good continuity.
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Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a
reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is
affecting the measurement.
To order any test equipment shown, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool
numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin.
Jumper Wire
Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder
connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire
across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse.
To order any test equipment shown, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool
numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin.
Troubleshooting Precautions
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION: -
Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
- Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles.
2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part
Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place.
CAUTION: -
Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
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- Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-mega
ohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that
contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
Troubleshooting Tests
Troubleshooting Tests
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt
ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest
"OHMS" range.
2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you
want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Ignition System > Ignition Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions >
Page 2878
4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or
no reading (zero), means good continuity.
Testing for Voltage Drop
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem. Circuits must be operating when checking
voltage drop.
1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts
range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage
is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM
voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Ignition System > Ignition Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions >
Page 2879
Ignition Switch: Connector Views
176. Ignition Key Switch
Test
SRS components are located in the area. Review the SRS component locations and precautions
and procedures before performing repairs or servicing.
1. Make sure you have the anti-theft code for the audio system or the navigation system (if
equipped), then write down the audio presets. Make sure
2. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 3. Remove the driver's dashboard lower cover, and the
steering column covers. 4. Disconnect the 7P connector (A) from the ignition switch (B).
5. Check for continuity between the terminals in each switch position according to the table.
6. If the continuity checks do not agree with the table, replace the ignition switch. 7. After
reconnecting the battery, enter the anti-theft code for the audio system or the navigation system (if
equipped), then enter the audio presets.
Replacement
SRS components are located in the area. Review the SRS component locations and precautions
and procedures before performing repairs or servicing.
1. Make sure you have the anti-theft code for the audio system or the navigation system (if
equipped), then write down the audio presets. Make sure
2. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 3. Remove the driver's dashboard lower cover, and the
steering column covers. 4. Disconnect the 7P connector (A) from the ignition switch (B).
5. Remove the two screws and the ignition switch. 6. Install in the reverse order of removal. 7. After
reconnecting the battery, enter the anti-theft code for the audio system or the navigation system (if
equipped), then enter the audio presets.
Knock Sensor
The knock control system adjusts the ignition timing to minimize knock.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Ignition System > Knock Sensor > Component Information > Locations > Page 2888
1. Remove the intake manifold. 2. Disconnect the knock sensor 1P connector (A).
3. Remove the knock sensor (B). 4. Install the parts in the reverse order of removal.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Fuel Pressure >
System Information > Specifications
Fuel Pressure: Specifications
*at idle, as measured at the Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor, using the HDS or a scantool.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Fuel Pressure >
System Information > Specifications > Page 2893
Fuel Pressure: Service Precautions
WARNING: Adhere to the following procedures any time the fuel system is being worked on in
order to reduce the risk of fire and personal injury:
- Keep a dry chemical (Class B) fire extinguisher near the work area.
- Work in a well-ventilated area. Do not smoke, and keep sparks and open flames away.
- Use caution when working near the catalytic converter to prevent the possibility of burns or fire.
(The temperatures within the converter can exceed 537 °C (1000 °F).
- Relieve the fuel system pressure prior to disconnecting fuel system components.
- Disconnect the negative battery cable except for tests where battery voltage is required.
- After making any fuel system repairs ALWAYS inspect for fuel leaks.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Fuel Pressure >
System Information > Specifications > Page 2894
Fuel Pressure: Testing and Inspection
Fuel pressure can only be checked using the HDS and viewing the FUEL RAIL PRESSURE
SENSOR readings.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Idle Speed > System
Information > Specifications
Idle Speed: Specifications
When the engine is cold, the A/C compressor is on, the transmission is in gear, the brake pedal is
pressed, the power steering load is high, or the alternator is charging, the PCM sends signals to
the throttle actuator to maintain the correct idle speed.
The brake pedal position switch signals the PCM when the brake pedal is pressed.
The PSP switch signals the PCM when the power steering load is high.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Idle Speed > System
Information > Specifications > Page 2899
NOTE:
The malfunction indicator lamp (MIL) has not been reported on, and there are no DTCs.
- Ignition timing
- Sparkplugs
- Air cleaner
- PCV system
- Apply the parking brake, and make sure the headlights are off.
1. Connect the HDS to the data link connector (DLC) (A) located under the driver's side of the
dashboard.
2. Make sure the HDS communicates with the PCM. If it doesn't go to the DLC circuit
troubleshooting. See: Computers and Control
3. Start the engine. Hold the engine speed at 3,000 rpm without load (in Park or neutral) until the
radiator fan comes on, then let it idle. 4. Check the idle speed without load conditions: headlights,
blower fan, radiator fan, and air conditioner off.
beam).
NOTE: If the idle speed is not within specification, do the PCM idle learn procedure, If the idle
speed is still not within specification, go to symptom troubleshooting.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Air Cleaner Housing >
Air Filter Element > Component Information > Testing and Inspection
2. Remove the air cleaner element (B) from the air cleaner housing (C). 3. Check the air cleaner
element for damage or clogging. If it is damaged or clogged, replace it.
NOTE: Do not use compressed air to clean the air cleaner element.
4. Install the parts in the reverse order of removal. Clean and remove any debris from inside the air
cleaner. 5. If the maintenance minder required air cleaner element replacement, reset the
maintenance minder.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Air Cleaner Housing >
Air Filter Element > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Page 2904
2. Remove the air cleaner element (B) from the air cleaner housing (C). 3. Check the air cleaner
element for damage or clogging. If it is damaged or clogged, replace it.
NOTE: Do not use compressed air to clean the air cleaner element.
4. Install the parts in the reverse order of removal. Clean and remove any debris from inside the air
cleaner. 5. If the maintenance minder required air cleaner element replacement, reset the
maintenance minder.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Fuel Filter > Fuel
Pressure Release > System Information > Service and Repair
Fuel Pressure Release: Service and Repair
WARNING: Compressed natural gas is flammable and highly explosive. You could be killed or
seriously injured if leaking natural gas is ignited. Stop the engine, and keep heat, sparks and
flames away.
This procedure should be done outside in a well-ventilated area or in a properly equipped CNG
shop.
This procedure will allow you to safely work on any part of the fuel system downstream of the
manual shut-off valve, such as fuel pressure regulator P1 or the fuel injectors.
1. Lift the vehicle, and support it with jackstands. 2. Close the manual shut-off valve (A).
3. Start the engine, and let it idle. After a few minutes, the engine will stall. 4. Turn the ignition
switch OFF.
This procedure will allow you to safely work on any part of the fuel system downstream of the fuel
tank such as the fuel joint block or the manual shut-off valve.
1. Remove the rear seat. 2. Disconnect the fuel subharness 6P connector (A) (this prevents the
tank from supplying fuel to the system).
3. Start the engine, and let it idle. After a few minutes, the engine will stall. 4. Turn the ignition
switch OFF.
This procedure will allow you to safely work on any part of the fuel system between the fuel joint
block and fuel receptacle.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Fuel Filter > Fuel
Pressure Release > System Information > Service and Repair > Page 2909
1. Relieve the fuel pressure between the fuel tank and the manual shut-off valve (see the previous
procedure). 2. Remove the under floor cover (A).
3. Loosen the sealing bolt (A) on the fuel joint block slowly.
4. Turn the fuel stem assembly (B) 1/2-1 turn counterclockwise. 5. Replace the fuel stem assembly
and sealing bolt O-ring (C).
NOTE: This procedure degrades the integrity of the fuel tank. Do it only if you are replacing the fuel
tank.
1. Lift the vehicle and support it with jackstands. 2. Close the manual shut-off valve (A).
3. Start the engine, and let it idle. After a few minutes, the engine will stall.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Fuel Filter > Fuel
Pressure Release > System Information > Service and Repair > Page 2910
4. Turn the ignition switch OFF, and disconnect the negative cable from the battery. 5. Connect a
ground wire (A) (available from AH special tools department) to the fuel line to eliminate any static
electricity.
6. Disconnect the fuel supply pipe (B) from fuel pressure regulator P1 (C). Be careful not to lose the
O-rings.
NOTE: Always use two wrenches when removing or installing the fuel pipe nut.
7. Connect the vent tube to the fuel supply pipe. 8. Secure the other end of the vent tube to the
highest possible location. 9. Remove the fuel pipe duct, and slowly remove the manual lock-down
valve (A). Install the manual override vent tool (B) (available from AH
10. Slowly turn the tool's Allen bolt clockwise until it stops. This opens the line between the fuel
tank and the manual shut-off valve. 11. Open the manual shut-off valve so fuel can vent from the
fuel tank. The fuel tank is empty when the hissing sound goes away. 12. Remove the manual
override vent tool.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Firing Order >
Component Information > Specifications
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Ignition Timing >
System Information > Specifications
Ignition Timing: Specifications
Ignition Timing
M/T:
......................................................................................................................................................... 8
° ± 2 ° BTDC (RED mark (B)) at idle in Neutral A/T:
........................................................................................................................................................... 8
° ± 2 ° BTDC (RED mark (B)) at idle in N or P
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Ignition Timing >
System Information > Specifications > Page 2917
Ignition Timing: Description and Operation
The PCM contains the memory for basic ignition timing at various engine speeds and manifold
absolute pressure. It also adjusts the timing according to engine coolant temperature and intake air
temperature.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Ignition Timing >
System Information > Specifications > Page 2918
Ignition Timing: Testing and Inspection
1. Connect the Honda Diagnostic System (HDS) to the data link connector (DLC). 2. Turn the
ignition switch to ON (II). 3. Make sure the HDS communicates with the vehicle and the ECM/PCM.
If it doesn't communicate, troubleshoot the DLC circuit. 4. Check for DTCs. If a DTC is present,
diagnose and repair the cause before continuing with this test. 5. Start the engine. Hold the engine
speed at 3,000 rpm with no load (in N or P (A/T) or neutral (M/T)) until the radiator fan comes on,
then let it
idle.
6. Check the idle speed. 7. Jump the SCS line with the HDS. 8. Connect the timing light to the No.
1 ignition coil harness.
9. Aim the light toward the pointer (A) on the cam chain case. Check the ignition timing under a no
load condition (headlights, blower fan, rear
10. If the ignition timing differs from the specification, check the cam timing. If the cam timing is OK,
update the engine control module
(ECM)/powertrain control module (PCM) if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a
known-good ECM/PCM, then recheck. If the system works properly, and the ECM/PCM was
substituted, replace the original ECM/PCM.
Torque .................................................................................................................................................
...................................... 25 N.m (2.5 kgf.m, 18 lbf.ft)
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Spark Plug >
Component Information > Specifications > Page 2922
Spark Plug: Application and ID
Spark Plugs
NGK: ....................................................................................................................................................
................................................................ IFR7F8DS
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Spark Plug >
Component Information > Specifications > Page 2923
Spark Plug: Testing and Inspection
1. Remove the spark plugs and inspect the electrodes and ceramic insulator.
- Insufficient cooling
2. If the spark plug electrode is dirty or contaminated, clean the electrode with a plug cleaner.
NOTE: -
Do not use a wire brush or scrape the iridium electrode since this will damage the electrode.
- When using a sand blaster spark plug cleaner, do not clean for more than 20 seconds to avoid
damaging the electrode.
4. Replace the plug at the specified interval, or if the center electrode is rounded (A). Use only the
spark plugs as listed.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Spark Plug >
Component Information > Specifications > Page 2924
5. Apply a small amount of anti-seize compound to the plug threads, and screw the plugs into the
cylinder head, finger-tight. Torque them to 25 N-m
NOTE: After this inspection, you must reset the engine control module (ECM)/powertrain control
module (PCM), otherwise the ECM/PCM will continue to stop the injectors from functioning.
1. Warm up the engine to normal operating temperature (cooling fan comes on). 2. Turn the ignition
switch to LOCK (0). 3. Connect the HDS to the data link connector (DLC). 4. Turn the ignition
switch to ON (II). 5. Make sure the HDS communicates with the vehicle and the ECM/PCM. If it
doesn't communicate, troubleshoot the DLC circuit. 6. Select PGM-FI, INSPECTION, then ALL
INJECTORS OFF function on the HDS. 7. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). 8. Remove the four
ignition coils. 9. Remove the four spark plugs.
11. Open the throttle fully, crank the engine with the starter motor and measure the compression.
13. If the compression is not within specifications, check the following items, then remeasure the
compression.
14. Remove the compression gauge from the spark plug hole. 15. Install the four spark plugs. 16.
Install the four ignition coils. 17. Select ECM/PCM reset to cancel the ALL INJECTORS OFF on the
HDS. 18. Do the ECM/PCM idle learn procedure.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Valve Clearance >
System Information > Specifications
Valve Clearance
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Valve Clearance >
System Information > Specifications > Page 2932
Valve Clearance: Adjustments
NOTE: Adjust the valves only when the cylinder head temperature is less than 100°F (38°C).
1. Remove the cylinder head cover. 2. Set the No. 1 piston at top dead center (TDC). The "UP"
mark (A) on the camshaft sprocket should be at the top, and the TDC grooves (B) on the
camshaft sprocket should line up with the top edge of the head.
3. Select the correct thickness feeler gauge for the valves you're going to check.
4. Insert the feeler gauge (A) between the adjusting screw and the end of the valve stem on No. 1
cylinder and slide it back and forth; you should feel
6. Tighten the locknut, and recheck the clearance. Repeat the adjustment, if necessary. 7. Tighten
the locknut.
8. Recheck the valve clearance. Repeat the adjustment if necessary. 9. Rotate the crankshaft
clockwise. Align the No. 3 piston TDC groove (A) on the camshaft sprocket with the top edge of the
head.
10. Check, and if necessary, adjust the valve clearance on No. 3 cylinder. 11. Rotate the
crankshaft clockwise. Align the No. 4 piston TDC groove (A) on the camshaft sprocket with the top
edge of the head.
12. Check, and if necessary, adjust the valve clearance on No. 4 cylinder. 13. Rotate the
crankshaft clockwise. Align the No. 2 piston TDC groove (A) on the camshaft sprocket with the top
edge of the head.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Valve Clearance >
System Information > Specifications > Page 2934
14. Check, and if necessary, adjust the valve clearance on No. 2 cylinder. 15. Install the cylinder
head cover.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > A/C Signal > Component
Information > Testing and Inspection
1. Start the engine, and let it idle. 2. Turn the blower switch on. 3. Turn the A/C switch on. 4. Check
the A/C CLUTCH in the DATA LIST with the HDS.
YES - Go to step 5.
NO - Go to step 6.
6. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 7. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). 8. Activate the A/C CLUTCH in
the INSPECTION MENU with the HDS.
NO - Go to step 9.
10. Jump the SCS line with the HDS. 11. Disconnect ECM/PCM connector A (44P). 12. Turn the
ignition switch ON (II). 13. Momentarily connect ECM/PCM connector terminal A14 to body ground
with a jumper wire several times.
NO - Check for poor connections or loose terminals at the A/C clutch relay and the ECM/PCM. If
the connections are OK, check the A/C clutch relay, repair open in the wire between the ECM/PCM
(A14) and the A/C clutch relay and the other A/C systems.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Accelerator Pedal Position
Sensor > Component Information > Locations
The throttle is electronically controlled by the electronic throttle control system. Refer to the system
diagram to see a functional layout of the system.
Idle control: When the engine is idling, the PCM controls the throttle actuator to maintain the proper
idle speed according to engine loads.
Acceleration control: When the accelerator pedal is pressed, the PCM opens the throttle valve
depending on the accelerator pedal position (APP) sensor signal.
Cruise control: The PCM controls the throttle actuator to maintain set speed when the cruise
control is operating. The throttle actuator takes the place of the cruise control actuator.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Accelerator Pedal Position
Sensor > Component Information > Description and Operation > Electronic Throttle Control System > Page 2946
Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor: Description and Operation Accelerator Pedal Position (APP)
Sensor
As the accelerator pedal position changes, the sensor varies the signal voltage to the PCM.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Accelerator Pedal Position
Sensor > Component Information > Description and Operation > Page 2947
NOTE:
- This procedure checks the APP sensor in its fully closed position. In any other position, the APP
sensor stores DTCs which are covered in other troubleshooting procedures.
- Check for Temporary DTCs or DTCs with the HDS before doing this procedure. If any DTCs are
indicated, troubleshoot them first, then do this procedure.
- Press the accelerator pedal several times to check its operation. If it does not operate smoothly,
check the pedal. If you find a problem, replace the accelerator pedal module.
1. Connect the HDS to the data link connector (DLC) (A) located under the driver's side of the
dashboard.
2. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). 3. Make sure the HDS communicates with the ECM/PCM. If it
doesn't, go to the DLC circuit troubleshooting. See: Testing and
4. Make sure the accelerator pedal is not pressed, then check the APP SENSOR in the DATA LIST
with the HDS.
- If it is not 0 %, update the ECM/PCM if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a
known-good ECM/PCM, then go to step 5.
5. Make sure the accelerator pedal is not pressed, then check the APP SENSOR in the DATA LIST
with the HDS.
NOTE: The APP sensor is not available separately. Do not disassemble the accelerator pedal
module.
50. Left Side Of Engine Comp. (DX, DX-G, LX, GX, EX)
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Air Flow Meter/Sensor >
Component Information > Locations > Page 2952
The mass airflow (MAF) sensor/intake air temperature (IAT) sensor contains a hot wire and a
thermistor. It is located in the intake air passage. The resistance of the hot wire and thermistor
changes due to intake air temperature and airflow. The control circuit in the MAF sensor controls
the current to keep the hot wire at a set temperature. The current is converted to voltage in the
control circuit, then output to the PCM.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Air Flow Meter/Sensor >
Component Information > Locations > Page 2955
2. Remove the bolts (B). 3. Remove the MAF sensor/IAT sensor (C). 4. Install the parts in the
reverse order of removal with a new O-ring (D).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Intake Air Temperature Sensor
> Component Information > Locations
50. Left Side Of Engine Comp. (DX, DX-G, LX, GX, EX)
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Intake Air Temperature Sensor
> Component Information > Locations > Page 2959
The mass airflow (MAF) sensor/intake air temperature (IAT) sensor contains a hot wire and a
thermistor. It is located in the intake air passage. The resistance of the hot wire and thermistor
changes due to intake air temperature and airflow. The control circuit in the MAF sensor controls
the current to keep the hot wire at a set temperature. The current is converted to voltage in the
control circuit, then output to the PCM.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Intake Air Temperature Sensor
> Component Information > Locations > Page 2962
2. Remove the bolts (B). 3. Remove the MAF sensor/IAT sensor (C). 4. Install the parts in the
reverse order of removal with a new O-ring (D).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Barometric Pressure Sensor >
Component Information > Description and Operation
Barometric Pressure Sensor: Description and Operation
The BARO sensor is inside the PCM. It converts atmospheric pressure into a voltage signal that
modifies the basic duration of the fuel injection discharge.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Camshaft Position Sensor >
Component Information > Locations
The CMP sensor detects the position of the No. 1 cylinder as a reference for sequential fuel
injection to each cylinder.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Camshaft Position Sensor >
Component Information > Service and Repair > CMP Sensor Replacement
1. Remove the cowl cover and under-cowl panel. 2. Disconnect the CMP sensor 3P connector (A).
3. Remove the CMP sensor (B). 4. Install the parts in the reverse order of removal with a new
O-ring (C).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Camshaft Position Sensor >
Component Information > Service and Repair > CMP Sensor Replacement > Page 2974
Camshaft Position Sensor: Service and Repair CMP Pulse Plate Removal and Installation
Removal
1. Remove the air cleaner assembly. 2. Remove the air cleaner housing bracket (A), then remove
the harness holder (B) from the cylinder head.
3. Remove the rocker arm assembly. 4. Remove the camshaft thrust cover.
5. Hold the camshaft with a 27 mm open-end wrench, then loosen the bolt.
2. Hold the camshaft with a 27 mm open-end wrench, then tighten the bolt.
3. Install the camshaft thrust cover (A) with a new O-ring (B).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Camshaft Position Sensor >
Component Information > Service and Repair > CMP Sensor Replacement > Page 2976
4. Install the rocker arm assembly. 5. Install the harness holder (A) on the cylinder head, then
install the air cleaner housing bracket (B).
ECT sensors 1 and 2 are temperature dependent resistors (thermistors). The resistance decreases
as the engine coolant temperature increases.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Coolant Temperature
Sensor/Switch (For Computer) > Component Information > Service and Repair > ECT Sensor 1 Replacement
Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer): Service and Repair ECT Sensor 1
Replacement
1. Drain the engine coolant. 2. Disconnect the ECT sensor 1 2P connector (A).
3. Remove ECT sensor 1 (B). 4. Install the parts in the reverse order of removal with a new O-ring
(C), then refill the radiator with engine coolant.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Coolant Temperature
Sensor/Switch (For Computer) > Component Information > Service and Repair > ECT Sensor 1 Replacement > Page 2983
Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer): Service and Repair ECT Sensor 2
Replacement
1. Drain the engine coolant. 2. Remove the splash shield. 3. Disconnect the ECT sensor 2 2P
connector (A).
4. Remove ECT sensor 2 (B). 5. Install the parts in the reverse order of removal with a new O-ring
(C), then refill the radiator with engine coolant. 6. Install the splash shield.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Crankshaft Position Sensor >
Component Information > Locations
The CKP sensor detects crankshaft speed and is used by the PCM to determine ignition timing and
timing for fuel injection of each cylinder as well as detecting engine misfire.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Crankshaft Position Sensor >
Component Information > Locations > Page 2990
Crankshaft Position Sensor: Service and Repair
1. Remove the splash shield; 2-door, 4-door. 2. Disconnect the CKP sensor 3P connector (A).
3. Remove the CKP sensor (B). 4. Install the parts in the reverse order of removal with a new
O-ring (C). 5. Do the CKP pattern clear/CKP pattern learn procedure below.
1. Connect the HDS to the data link connector (DLC) (A) located under the driver's side of the
dashboard.
2. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). 3. Make sure the HDS communicates with the ECM/PCM and
other vehicle systems. If it doesn't, go to the DLC circuit troubleshooting. See:
4. Select CRANK PATTERN in the ADJUSTMENT MENU with the HDS. 5. Select CRANK
PATTERN LEARNING with the HDS, and follow the screen prompts.
1. Start the engine. Hold the engine speed at 3,000 rpm without load (in Park or neutral) until the
radiator fan comes on. 2. Test-drive the vehicle on a level road: Decelerate (with the throttle fully
closed) from an engine speed of 2,500 rpm down to 1,000 rpm with the
3. Test-drive the vehicle on a level road: Decelerate (with the throttle fully closed) from an engine
speed of 5,000 rpm down to 3,000 rpm with the
217. DLC
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Data Link Connector >
Component Information > Locations > Page 2997
Data Link Connector: Testing and Inspection
NOTE: Before you begin, make sure the HDS and the DLC cable are working properly.
1. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 2. Connect the HDS to the DLC.
YES - Go to step 4.
NO - Go to step 21.
4. Check for Temporary DTCs or DTCs in the PGM-FI system with the HDS.
NO - Go to step 5.
5. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 6. Turn the ignition switch ON (II), and watch the SRS indicator.
NO - Go to step 7.
7. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 8. Turn the ignition switch ON (II), and watch the ABS indicator.
NO - Go to step 9.
10. Turn the ignition switch ON (II), and watch the immobilizer indicator.
NO - -
11. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 12. Turn the ignition switch ON (II), and watch the TPMS
indicator.
NO - Go to step 15.
15. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 16. Disconnect the HDS from the DLC. 17. Check for continuity
between DLC terminal No. 7 and body ground.
Is there continuity?
NO - Go to step 19.
18. Continue to check for continuity between DLC terminal No. 7 and body ground while
disconnecting these connectors, one at a time:
YES - Replace the part that caused an open when it was disconnected.
NO - Repair short in the wire between the DLC (K-line) and the ABS modulator-control unit, the
SRS unit, the immobilizer-keyless control unit, the TPMS control unit (with TPMS), the audio unit,
or the under-dash fuse/relay box.
19. Connect DLC terminal No. 7 to body ground with a jumper wire.
20. Check for continuity between body ground and these connector terminals:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Data Link Connector >
Component Information > Locations > Page 2999
Is there continuity between the DLC terminal and each of the terminals in the chart?
YES - Replace the part that does not communicate with the HDS.
NO - Repair open in the wire between the DLC (K-line) and the appropriate connector.
21. Do the gauge self-diagnostic function, 22. Check for B-CAN system DTCs without the HDS,
NO - Go to step 23.
23. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 24. Disconnect the HDS from the DLC. 25. Measure voltage
between DLC terminal No. 16 and body ground.
NO - Repair open in the wire between DLC terminal No. 16 and the No. 23 BACK UP (10 A) fuse in
the under-hood fuse/relay box.
26. Measure voltage between DLC terminals No. 4 and No. 16.
27. Connect the HDS to the DLC. 28. Jump the SCS line with the HDS. 29. Disconnect PCM
connector A (44P). 30. Disconnect the HDS from the DLC. 31. Connect DLC terminal No. 6 to body
ground with a jumper wire.
32. Check for continuity between PCM connector terminal A36 and body ground.
Is there continuity?
NO - Repair open in the wire between the PCM (A36) and DLC terminal No. 6.
33. Connect DLC terminal No. 14 to body ground with a jumper wire.
34. Check for continuity between PCM connector terminal A37 and body ground.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Data Link Connector >
Component Information > Locations > Page 3001
Is there continuity?
YES - Update the PCM if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a known-good PCM,
then recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away with a known-good PCM, replace the original
PCM,
NO - Repair open in the wire between the PCM (A37) and DLC terminal No. 14.
YES - Go to F-CAN circuit troubleshooting. See: Testing and Inspection/Component Tests and
General Diagnostics/F-CAN Circuit Troubleshooting
NO - Go to step 36.
36. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 37. Check the No. 2 IG MAIN (50 A) fuse in the under-hood
fuse/relay box.
YES - Repair open in the wire between the No. 2 IG MAIN (50 A) fuse and the ignition switch. If the
wire is OK, go to step 38.
NO - Repair short in the wire between the No. 2 IG MAIN (50 A) fuse and the under-hood
fuse/relay box. Also replace the No. 2 IG MAIN (50 A ) fuse.
38. Inspect the No. 19 FI MAIN (15 A) fuse in the under-hood fuse/relay box.
NO - Go to step 39.
39. Remove the blown No. 19 FI MAIN (15 A) fuse from the under-hood fuse/relay box. 40.
Remove PGM-FI main relay 1 (C) from the under-hood fuse/relay box.
41. Check for continuity between body ground and PGM-FI main relay 1 4P connector terminals
No. 1 and No. 3 individually.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Data Link Connector >
Component Information > Locations > Page 3002
Is there continuity?
YES - Replace the under-hood fuse/relay box, Also replace the No. 19 FI MAIN (15 A) fuse.
NO - Go to step 42.
42. Disconnect each of the parts or connectors below, one at a time, while checking for continuity
between PGM-FI main relay 1 4P connector
YES - Replace the component that made the short to body ground go away when disconnected. If
the parts is the PCM, update the PCM if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a
known-good PCM, then recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away with a known-good PCM,
replace the original PCM, Also replace the No. 19 FI MAIN (15 A) fuse.
NO - Go to step 43.
44. Check for continuity between PGM-FI main relay 1 4P connector terminal No. 2 and body
ground.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Data Link Connector >
Component Information > Locations > Page 3003
Is there continuity?
YES - Repair short in the wire between PGM-FI main relay 1 and each item. Also replace the No.
19 FI MAIN (15 A) fuse.
NO - Replace PGM-FI main relay 1. Also replace the No. 19 FI MAIN (15 A) fuse.
45. Inspect the No. 2 FUEL PUMP (15 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box.
NO - Go to step 46.
46. Remove the blown No. 2 FUEL PUMP (15 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box. 47. Jump
the SCS line with the HDS. 48. Disconnect PCM connector C (44P). 49. Check for continuity
between PCM connector terminal C36 and body ground.
Is there continuity?
NO - Replace the No. 2 FUEL PUMP (15 A) fuse, and update the PCM if it does not have the latest
software, or substitute a known-good PCM, then recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away with
a known-good PCM, replace the original PCM,
50. Remove the driver's dashboard undercover, 51. Remove the fuel shut-off solenoid valve relay
(A) from the relay holder.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Data Link Connector >
Component Information > Locations > Page 3004
52. Check for continuity between PCM connector terminal C36 and body ground.
Is there continuity?
YES - Repair short in the wire between the No. 2 FUEL PUMP (15 A) fuse and the PCM (C36),
between the No. 2 FUEL PUMP (15 A) fuse and fuel shut-off solenoid valve relay or between the
No. 2 FUEL PUMP (15 A) fuse and the immobilizer control unit. Also replace the No. 2 FUEL
PUMP (15 A) fuse.
NO - Do the fuel pressure regulator shut-off solenoid valve/fuel tank internal solenoid valve
troubleshooting.
53. Jump the SCS line with the HDS. 54. Disconnect PCM connectors A (44P) and C (44P). 55.
Turn the ignition switch ON (II). 56. Measure voltage between PCM connector terminal C36 and
body ground.
NO - Repair open in the wire between the No. 2 FUEL PUMP (15 A) fuse and the PCM (C36).
57. Measure voltage between PCM connector terminal A6 and body ground.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Data Link Connector >
Component Information > Locations > Page 3005
Is there battery voltage?
NO - Go to step 58.
58. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 59. Remove PGM-FI main relay 1 (C) from the under-hood
fuse/relay box.
60. Measure voltage between PGM-FI main relay 1 4P connector terminal No. 3 and body ground.
61. Check for continuity between PGM-FI main relay 1 4P connector terminal No.4 and PCM
connector terminal A6.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Data Link Connector >
Component Information > Locations > Page 3006
Is there continuity?
YES - Test PGM-FI main relay 1 . If the relay is OK, update the PCM if it does not have the latest
software , or substitute a known-good PCM , then recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away
with a known- good PCM, replace the original PCM.
NO - Repair open in the wire between the PCM (A6) and PGM-FI main relay 1.
62. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 63. Remove PGM-FI main relay 1(C) from the under- hood
fuse/relay box.
64. Measure voltage between PGM-FI main relay 1 4P connector terminal No. land body ground.
65. Check for continuity between PGM-FI main relay 1 4P connector terminal No.2 and PCM
connector terminal A8.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Data Link Connector >
Component Information > Locations > Page 3007
Is there continuity?
NO - Repair open in the wire between the PCM (AS) and PGM-FI main relay 1.
69. Disconnect PCM connector B (44P). 70. Check for continuity between body ground and PCM
connector terminals I, B36, C2, C40, and C44 individually.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Data Link Connector >
Component Information > Locations > Page 3008
Is there continuity?
NO - Repair open in the wire between the PCM (B1, B36, C2, C40, C44) and G101.
71. Check for continuity between PCM connector terminal C13 and body ground.
Is there continuity?
NO - Go to step 73.
72. Continue to check for continuity between PCM connector terminal C13 and body ground, while
disconnecting these connectors, one at a time:
YES - Replace the sensor that caused an open when it was disconnected.
NO - Repair short in the wire between the PCM (C13) and the MAP sensor, the EOP sensor ('06
model), or the output shaft (countershaft) speed sensor.
73. Check for continuity between PCM connector terminal B18 and body ground.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Data Link Connector >
Component Information > Locations > Page 3009
Is there continuity?
NO - Go to step 75.
74. Continue to check for continuity between PCM connector terminal B18 and body ground, while
disconnecting these connectors, one at a time:
YES - Replace the sensor that caused an open when it was disconnected.
NO - Repair short in the wire between the PCM (B18) and the IMT actuator, the EOP sensor
('07-08 models), or the input shaft (mainshaft) speed sensor.
75. Check for continuity between PCM connector terminal C12 and body ground.
Is there continuity?
NO - Go to step 77.
76. Continue to check for continuity between PCM connector terminal C12 and body ground, while
disconnecting the throttle body 6P connector.
Is there continuity?
YES - Repair short in the wire between the PCM (C12) and the throttle body.
77. Check for continuity between PCM connector terminal A25 and body ground.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Data Link Connector >
Component Information > Locations > Page 3010
Is there continuity?
NO - Go to step 79.
78. Continue to check for continuity between PCM connector terminal A25 and body ground, while
disconnecting the APP sensor 6P connector.
Is there continuity?
YES - Repair short in the wire between the PCM (A25) and APP sensor A.
79. Check for continuity between PCM connector terminal A24 and body ground.
Is there continuity?
NO - Go to step 81.
80. Continue to check for continuity between PCM connector terminal A24 and body ground, while
disconnecting the APP sensor 6P connector.
Is there continuity ?
YES - Repair short in the wire between the PCM (A24) and APP sensor B.
81. Check for continuity between PCM connector terminal A19 and body ground.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Data Link Connector >
Component Information > Locations > Page 3011
Is there continuity?
NO - Update the PCM if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a known-good PCM, then
recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away with a known-good PCM, replace the original PCM,
82. Continue to check for continuity between PCM connector terminal A19 and body ground, while
disconnecting these connectors, one at a time:
Does continuity go away when any of the above sensors are disconnected?
YES - Replace the sensor that caused an open when it was disconnected.
NO - Repair short in the wire between the PCM (A19) and the A/C pressure sensor, the fuel rail
pressure sensor, or the FTP sensor.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Electric Load Sensor >
Component Information > Locations
1. Remove the ECM/PCM. 2. Remove the under-hood fuse/relay box. 3. Remove the screw (A).
5. Turn the housing over again. Using two flat-tip screwdrivers, release the tabs (A), and pry up the
fuse/relay box base (B) from the fuse/relay box
housing (C).
NOTE: Make sure the terminals (D) are not bent or damaged.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Electric Load Sensor >
Component Information > Locations > Page 3016
6. Remove the ELD (A).
The throttle is electronically controlled by the electronic throttle control system. Refer to the system
diagram to see a functional layout of the system.
Idle control: When the engine is idling, the PCM controls the throttle actuator to maintain the proper
idle speed according to engine loads.
Acceleration control: When the accelerator pedal is pressed, the PCM opens the throttle valve
depending on the accelerator pedal position (APP) sensor signal.
Cruise control: The PCM controls the throttle actuator to maintain set speed when the cruise
control is operating. The throttle actuator takes the place of the cruise control actuator.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Electronic Throttle Actuator
Relay > Component Information > Locations
Use this chart to identify the type of relay, then do the test listed for it.
Normally-open type
- There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when battery positive terminal
is connected to the No. 4 terminal, and battery negative terminal is connected to the No. 3 terminal.
- There should be no continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power is
disconnected.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 09-047 > Sep > 09 > Engine Controls - MIL
ON/Multiple DTCs Set
Engine Control Module: Customer Interest Engine Controls - MIL ON/Multiple DTCs Set
09-0471
MIL Comes On With DTC P0962, P0963, P0966, P0967, P0970, or P0971 (Supersedes 09-047,
dated June 30, 2009, to revise the information marked by asterisks)
*REVISION SUMMARY
^ Under PARTS INFORMATION, you are now referred to the parts catalog for part numbers and
descriptions.
^ Under VEHICLES AFFECTED, the Accord L4, the Civic (except Si), and the CR-V have been
changed to A/T.*
SYMPTOM
PROBABLE CAUSE
VEHICLES AFFECTED
CORRECTIVE ACTION
PARTS INFORMATION
Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request
consideration, and get a decision, before starting work.
DIAGNOSIS
Connect the HDS to the vehicle's DLC, and check for DTCs.
NO - This service bulletin does not apply. Continue with normal troubleshooting.
REPAIR PROCEDURE
^ Online, enter keywords PCM REPLACE, and select ECM/PCM Replacement or PCM
Replacement from the list.
Disclaimer
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Engine Control Module: > 03-020
> Apr > 10 > Emissions - OBD II DTC's And Associated Monitors
Engine Control Module: All Technical Service Bulletins Emissions - OBD II DTC's And Associated
Monitors
03-020
April 2, 2010
*REVISION SUMMARY
Following is a list of all OBD II DTCs and their associated monitors for all Honda automobiles with
OBD II. No one model has every DTC in the list.
Disclaimer
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Engine Control Module: > 09-047
> Sep > 09 > Engine Controls - MIL ON/Multiple DTCs Set
Engine Control Module: All Technical Service Bulletins Engine Controls - MIL ON/Multiple DTCs
Set
09-0471
MIL Comes On With DTC P0962, P0963, P0966, P0967, P0970, or P0971 (Supersedes 09-047,
dated June 30, 2009, to revise the information marked by asterisks)
*REVISION SUMMARY
^ Under PARTS INFORMATION, you are now referred to the parts catalog for part numbers and
descriptions.
^ Under VEHICLES AFFECTED, the Accord L4, the Civic (except Si), and the CR-V have been
changed to A/T.*
SYMPTOM
PROBABLE CAUSE
VEHICLES AFFECTED
CORRECTIVE ACTION
PARTS INFORMATION
Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request
consideration, and get a decision, before starting work.
DIAGNOSIS
Connect the HDS to the vehicle's DLC, and check for DTCs.
NO - This service bulletin does not apply. Continue with normal troubleshooting.
REPAIR PROCEDURE
^ Online, enter keywords PCM REPLACE, and select ECM/PCM Replacement or PCM
Replacement from the list.
Disclaimer
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Engine Control Module: > 03-020 >
Apr > 10 > Emissions - OBD II DTC's And Associated Monitors
Engine Control Module: All Technical Service Bulletins Emissions - OBD II DTC's And Associated
Monitors
03-020
April 2, 2010
*REVISION SUMMARY
Following is a list of all OBD II DTCs and their associated monitors for all Honda automobiles with
OBD II. No one model has every DTC in the list.
Disclaimer
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 3078
Circuit Schematics
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3082
Circuit Schematics
Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show
current flow, from power at the top of the diagram, to ground at the bottom.
Shared Circuits
Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that
connects one circuit to another, for example, is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it
pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or
component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring, check the operation of a
component it serves. If that component works, you know the shared wiring is OK.
Connectors
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3083
All in-line and junction connectors are numbered (C725, C416, etc.). Component connectors are
not numbered but are identified either by the name of the component if the component only has
one connector, or by a capital letter (A, B, C, etc.) if the component has more than one connector.
Below most connector numbers and component names are PHOTO and VIEW numbers. The
PHOTO number refers to a photo at Vehicle Level Locations that shows the connector's location on
the car. The VIEW number refers to an connector view at the Vehicle Level Connector Views that
shows the connector terminals, wire colors, connector cavity numbers, and other details.
The connector cavity numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector as seen
from either of the viewpoints. Except for the DLC (data link connector), disregard any numbers
molded into the connector housing.
Wires
Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the
stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number "2" next to the male
and female wire terminals at C554, for example, means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector
C554.
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the vehicle. Refer to the Power Distribution Diagram Set to get a more detailed
understanding of how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on. Individual circuit
schematics begin with a fuse. So if Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another
circuit share a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good
and power is available to the inoperative circuit.
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share the same
ground point.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3085
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3086
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3087
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3088
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3089
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3090
How to Identify Connector Terminals
Connector terminals are numbered according to the cavities they are in. The cavities are numbered
starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side or looking at the
female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the
same. All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not
the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the
connector face.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3091
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown above is #6.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3092
The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice
connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for
all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement
terminal availability.
On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged,
replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If
any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it.
Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the
wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the
terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to
make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a
factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS.
Use the tools from Pin Tool Set. First, check the connector that you are about to repair.
- If it has a secondary terminal lock, go to Connectors With a Secondary Lock. A secondary lock,
found on most connectors on some models, is an additional locking device on the connector
housing as a backup for the primary lock on the terminal.
- If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock.
All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the
secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the
connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities.
EXAMPLE A:
EXAMPLE B:
EXAMPLE C:
EXAMPLE D:
2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW
TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE E:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3096
1. Remove the secondary locks.
2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW
TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE F:
3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of
connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary
in size and shape.
EXAMPLE A:
EXAMPLE B:
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1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE C:
EXAMPLE D:
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1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE E:
EXAMPLE F:
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1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE G:
1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct
replacement terminal based on the wire size range
NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part
number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available
through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures.
2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool.
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3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the
wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from
the kit.)
NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did,
cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again.
4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the
anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown
in step 3.
6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact.
- If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool
over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the
stops make contact.
- If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully
squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape.
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8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the following NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and
start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the
way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure
10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector.
Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too
short or when access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair.
On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged,
replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If
any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it.
1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from
Pin Tool Set.
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2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal,
then strip about half of the insulation off that piece.
This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal.
NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will
not nick or cut off any strands of wires.
3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and
same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit
onto the stripped end of the original wire.
5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the
pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more
than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at
the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the
harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make
each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail.
7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends
of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue
NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the
stripper.
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8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the
flare begins), and close the crimper handles far
enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click,
squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open.
9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the
wire all the way into the splice connector, and
squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until
the ratchet clicks again.
10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After
crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the
connector.
12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire(s), and shield them with
nonflammable material.
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13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the
gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat
evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete
when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube.
NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun.
Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the
wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size)
splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select
the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in
quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures.
Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the
Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching
connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body.
1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector.
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2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool.
NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal
because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit.
3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal
with a replacement terminal from the appropriate
Five-Step Troubleshooting
Five-Step Troubleshooting
Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint.
Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
problem area.
Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by
tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground (certain
circuits contain a "How the Circuit Works" Diagram set). Also, trace circuits that share wiring with
the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on,
are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step
1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used
only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely
cause.
Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more
possible causes.
Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple
procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to
make tests at points that are easily accessible.
Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe
procedures.
Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire
problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure
no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur.
Test Equipment
Test Equipment
CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
1O-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up
of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to
various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is
voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital
volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is
between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM).
In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low
resistance means good continuity.
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Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a
reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is
affecting the measurement.
To order any test equipment shown, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool
numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin.
Jumper Wire
Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder
connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire
across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse.
To order any test equipment shown, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool
numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin.
Troubleshooting Precautions
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION: -
Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
- Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles.
2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part
Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place.
CAUTION: -
Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
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- Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-mega
ohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that
contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
Troubleshooting Tests
Troubleshooting Tests
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt
ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest
"OHMS" range.
2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you
want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end.
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4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or
no reading (zero), means good continuity.
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem. Circuits must be operating when checking
voltage drop.
1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts
range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage
is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM
voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
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NOTE: The PCM stays on up to 15 minutes after the ignition switch is turned OFF. Jumping the
SCS line after turning the ignition switch OFF cancels this function. Disconnecting the PCM during
this function, without jumping the SCS line first, can damage the PCM.
3. Lift up the under-hood fuse/relay box (D). 4. Remove the coolant reservoir (E). Disconnect PCM
connectors A, B, and C.
NOTE: PCM connectors A, B, and C have symbols (A=Square, B=triangle, C=circle) embossed on
them for identification.
5. When diagnosis/troubleshooting is done at the PCM connector, use the terminal test port (A)
above the terminal you need to check.
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6. Connect one side of the patch cord (A) terminals to a commercially available digital multimeter
(B), and connect the other side of the patch cord
terminals to a commercially available banana jack (Pomona Electronics Tool No. 3563 or
equivalent) (C).
7. Gently contact the pin probe (male) at the terminal test port from the terminal side. Do not force
the tips into the terminals.
NOTE: -
- To prevent damage to the connector terminals, do not insert test equipment probes, paper clips,
or other substitutes as they can damage the terminals. Damaged terminals cause a poor
connection and an incorrect measurement.
- Do not puncture the insulation on a wire. Punctures can cause poor or intermittent electrical
connections.
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ECM Reset
The PCM stores various specific data to correct the system even if there is no electrical power such
as when the battery negative terminal or No. 19 FI MAIN (15 A) fuse are disconnected. Stored data
based on failed parts should be cleared by using the CLEAR COMMAND of the HDS, if parts are
replaced.
The HDS has three kinds of clear commands to meet this purpose. They are DTC clear, PCM
reset, and CKP pattern clear. DTC clear command erases all stored DTC codes, freeze data,
on-board snapshot, and readiness codes. This must be done with the HDS after reproducing the
DTC during troubleshooting.
The PCM reset command erases all stored DTC codes, freeze data, on-board snapshot, readiness
codes, and all specific data to correct the system except CKP pattern. If the CKP pattern data in
the PCM was cleared, you must do the CKP pattern learn procedure. The CKP pattern clear
command erases only CKP pattern data. This command is for repair of a misfire or the CKP
sensor.
If you are using a generic scan tool to clear commands, be aware that there is only one setting for
clearing the PCM, and it clears all commands at the same time (CKP pattern learn, idle learn,
readiness codes, freeze data, on-board snapshot, and DTCs). After you clear all commands, you
then need to do these procedures, in this order: PCM idle learn procedure.; CKP pattern learn
procedure;
DTC Clear
1. Clear the DTC with the HDS while the engine is stopped. 2. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 3. Turn
the ignition switch ON (II), and wait 30 seconds. 4. Turn the ignition switch OFF, and disconnect
the HDS from the DLC.
PCM Reset
NOTE:If the low fuel indicator is blinking, the PCM can not be reset with the HDS. To reset the
PCM, do the low fuel indicator troubleshooting .
1. Reset the PCM with the HDS while the engine is stopped. 2. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 3.
Turn the ignition switch ON (II), and wait 30 seconds. 4. Turn the ignition switch OFF, and
disconnect the HDS from the DLC. 5. Do the PCM idle learn procedure,
CKP Pattern Clear/CKP Pattern Learn Clear/Learn Procedure (with the HDS)
1. Connect the HDS to the data link connector (DLC) (A) located under the driver's side of the
dashboard.
2. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). 3. Make sure the HDS communicates with the PCM and other
vehicle systems. If it doesn't, go to the DLC circuit troubleshooting. See: Testing and
4. Select CRANK PATTERN in the ADJUSTMENT MENU with the HDS. 5. Select CRANK
PATTERN LEARNING with the HDS, and follow the screen prompts.
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1. Start the engine. Hold the engine speed at 3,000 rpm without load (in Park or neutral) until the
radiator fan comes on. 2. Test-drive the vehicle on a level road: Decelerate (with the throttle fully
closed) from an engine speed of 2,500 rpm down to 1,000 rpm with the
transmission in 2 position.
3. Test-drive the vehicle on a level road: Decelerate (with the throttle fully closed) from an engine
speed of 5,000 rpm down to 3,000 rpm with the
transmission in 2 position.
4. Repeat step 2 and 3 several times. 5. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 6. Turn the ignition switch
ON (II), and wait 30 seconds.
1. Reset the PCM with the HDS. 2. Do the PCM idle learn procedure. 3. Turn the ignition switch
OFF. 4. Disconnect the HDS from the DLC.
NOTE: The PCM is part of the immobilizer system. If you replace the PCM, it will have a different
immobilizer code. In order for the engine to start, you must rewrite the immobilizer code with the
HDS.
- Honda interface module (HIM) and an iN workstation with HDS and CM update software
NOTE: -
Use this procedure when you need to update the PCM during a troubleshooting procedures.
- Before you update the PCM, make sure the battery in the vehicle is fully charged, and connect a
jumper battery (not a battery charger) to maintain system voltage.
- Never turn the ignition switch OFF during the update. If there is a problem with the update, leave
the ignition switch ON.
- To prevent PCM damage, do not operate anything electrical (headlights, audio system, brakes,
A/C, power windows, moonroof (if equipped), door locks, etc.) during the update.
- To ensure the latest program is installed, do PCM update whenever the PCM is substituted or
replaced.
- You cannot update PCM with a program it already has. It will only accept a new program.
- High temperature in the engine compartment might cause the PCM to become too hot to run the
update. If the engine has been running before this procedure, open the hood and cool the engine
compartment.
- If you need to diagnose the Honda interface module (HIM) because the HIM's red (# 3) light came
on or was flashed during the update, leave the ignition switch in the ON (II) position when you
disconnect the HIM from the data link connector (DLC). This will prevent PCM damage.
1. Turn the ignition switch ON (II), but do not start the engine.
2. Connect the HDS to the data link connector (DLC) (A) located under the driver's side of the
dashboard. 3. Make sure the HDS communicates with the PCM and other vehicle systems. If it
doesn't, go to the DLC circuit troubleshooting. See: Testing and
skip steps 4 and 5 and clean the throttle body after updating the PCM.
4. Select the INSPECTION MENU with the HDS. 5. Select the ETCS TEST, then select the TP
POSITION CHECK and follow the screen prompts with the HDS.
6. Exit the HDS, then select the update function and follow the screen prompts to update the PCM.
7. If the software in the PCM is the latest, disconnect the HDS/HIM from the DLC, and go back to
the procedure that you were doing. If the software
in the PCM is not the latest, follow the instructions on the screen. If prompted to choose the
PGM-FI system or the A/T system, make sure you update both.
NOTE: If the PCM update system requires you to cool the PCM, follow what is shown in the
screen. If you run into a problem (programming takes over 15 minutes, status bar goes over 100 %,
D or immobilizer light flashes, HDS tablet freezes, etc.) during the update procedure, follow these
steps to minimize the chance of damaging the PCM. -
- Reconnect the HDS to the DLC, and try the update procedure again.
8. If the TP POSITION CHECK failed in step 5, clean the throttle body, 9. Do the PCM idle learn
procedure,
- Honda interface module (HIM) and an iN workstation with HDS and CM update software
- GNA600 and an iN workstation with HDS and CM update software Use any one of these update
tools.
NOTE: Use this procedure when you need to substitute a known-good PCM during troubleshooting
procedures.
1. Make sure you have the anti-theft codes for the radio and the navigation system (if equipped).
2. Connect the HDS to the data link connector (DLC) (A) located under the driver's side of the
dashboard. 3. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). 4. Make sure the HDS communicates with the PCM
and other vehicle systems. If it doesn't, go to the DLC circuit troubleshooting. See: Testing and
5. Select the INSPECTION MENU with the HDS. 6. Select the ETCS TEST, then select the TP
POSITION CHECK and follow the screen prompts.
10. Remove the bolts (D), then remove the PCM (E). 11. Disconnect PCM connectors A, B, and C.
NOTE: PCM connectors A, B, and C have symbols (A=Square, B=Triangle, C=Circle) embossed
on them for identification.
12. Install the PCM and the battery in the reverse order of removal. 13. Turn the ignition switch ON
(II).
NOTE: DTC P0630 "VIN Not Programmed or Mismatch" may be stored because the VIN has not
been programmed into the PCM; ignore it, and continue this procedure.
14. Manually input the VIN to the PCM with the HDS. 15. Update the PCM if it does not have the
latest software. 16. Select the IMMOBI SYSTEM with the HDS. 17. Enter the immobilizer code with
the PCM replacement procedure in the HDS; it allows you to start the engine. 18. Reset the PCM
with the HDS. 19. If the TP POSITION CHECK failed in step 7, clean the throttle body. 20. Do the
PCM idle learn procedure. 21. Do the CKP pattern learn procedure. 22. Enter the anti-theft codes
for the radio and the navigation system (if equipped) and set the clock.
The idle learn procedure must be done so the ECM/PCM can learn the engine idle characteristics.
Procedure
1. Make sure all electrical items (A/C, audio, lights, etc.) are off. 2. Reset the ECM/PCM with the
HDS. 3. Turn the ignition switch ON (II), and wait 2 seconds. 4. Start the engine. Hold the engine
speed at 3,000 rpm without load (in Park or neutral) until the radiator fan comes on, or until the
engine coolant
5. Let the engine idle for about 5 minutes with the throttle fully closed.
NOTE: If the radiator fan comes on, do not include its running time in the 5 minutes.
6. Verify on the HDS data list that the idle learn procedure is complete.
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ECM/PCM Replacement
- Honda interface module (HIM) and an iN workstation with HDS and CM update software
NOTE: -
Make sure the HDS is loaded with the latest software version.
- If you are replacing the ECM/PCM after substituting a known-good ECM/PCM, reinstall the
original ECM/PCM, then do this procedure.
- During the procedure, is any READ DATA, WRITE DATA, or other data checks fail, note the
failure, then continue.
1. Make sure you have the anti-theft code for the audio system or the navigation system (if
equipped), then write down the audio presets. 2. Connect the HDS to the data link connector (DLC)
(A) located under the driver's side of the dashboard.
3. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). 4. Make sure the HDS communicates with the ECM/PCM and
other vehicle systems. If it doesn't, go to the DLC circuit troubleshooting. See:
5. USA, Canada models: Select the PGM-FI system with the HDS. 6. USA, Canada models: Select
the INSPECTION MENU with the HDS. 7. USA, Canada models: Select the ETCS TEST, then
select the TP POSITION CHECK, and follow the screen prompts.
NOTE: If the TP POSITION CHECK indicates FAILED, continue with this procedure.
8. USA, Canada models: Select the REPLACE ECM/PCM MENU, then READ DATA, and follow
the screen prompts.
NOTE: -
Doing this step copies (READS) the engine oil life data from the original ECM/PCM so you can
later download (WRITES) it into the new ECM/PCM.
9. USA, Canada models A/T: Select the A/T system with the HDS.
10. USA, Canada models A/T: Select the REPLACE TCM/PCM MENU, then READ DATA, and
follow the screen prompts.
NOTE: -
Doing this step copies (READS) the ATF life data from the original PCM so you can later download
(WRITES) it into the new PCM.
11. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 12. Remove the battery. 13. Remove the cover (A).
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14. Remove the bolts (D), then remove the ECM/PCM (E).
NOTE: DTC P0630 "VIN Not Programmed or Mismatch" may be stored because the VIN has not
been programmed into the ECM/PCM; ignore it, and continue this procedure.
19. USA, Canada models: If the READ DATA (engine oil life) failed in step 8, go to step 22 (A/T
model) or step 25 (M/T model). Otherwise, go to
step 20.
20. USA, Canada models: Select the PGM-FI system with the HDS. 21. USA, Canada models:
Select the REPLACE ECM/PCM MENU, then WRITE DATA, and follow the screen prompts.
NOTE: If the WRITE DATA indicates FAILED, continue with this procedure.
22. USA, Canada models A/T: If the READ DATA (ATF life) failed in step 10, go to step 25.
Otherwise go to step 23. 23. USA, Canada models A/T: Select the A/T SYSTEM with the HDS. 24.
USA, Canada models A/T: Select the REPLACE TCM/PCM MENU, then WRITE DATA, and follow
the screen prompts.
NOTE: If the WRITE DATA indicates FAILED, continue with this procedure.
25. Select IMMOBI system with the HDS. 26. Enter the immobilizer code with the ECM/PCM
replacement procedure in the HDS; it allows you to start the engine. 27. USA, Canada models: If
the TP POSITION CHECK failed in step 7 clean the throttle body, then go to step 28. 28. USA,
Canada models: If the READ DATA failed in step 8 or the WRITE DATA failed in step 21, replace
the engine oil and engine oil filter, then
29. USA, Canada models: If the READ DATA failed in step 10 or the WRITE DATA failed in step
24, replace the ATF, then go to step 30. 30. Select PGM-FI system, and reset the ECM/PCM with
the HDS. 31. Update the ECM/PCM if it does not have the latest software. 32. Do the ECM/PCM
idle learn procedure.
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Component Information > Service and Repair > Procedures > Page 3154
33. Do the CKP pattern learn procedure. 34. Enter the anti-theft code for the audio or the
navigation system (if equipped), then set the clock (if needed).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Fuel Injector Driver Module
(CNG) > Component Information > Locations
Fuel Injector Driver Module (CNG): Locations
138. Accessory Power Socket Relay, Front, Accessory Power Socket Relay, Rear (EX, Si) Or
Injector Control Module Relay (GX)
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
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(CNG) > Component Information > Locations > Page 3162
266. Injector Control Module (GX)
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(CNG) > Component Information > Locations > Page 3163
Fuel Injector Driver Module (CNG): Testing and Inspection
Use this chart to identify the type of relay, then do the test listed for it.
Normally-open type
- There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when battery positive terminal
is connected to the No. 4 terminal, and battery negative terminal is connected to the No. 3 terminal.
- There should be no continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power is
disconnected.
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(CNG) > Component Information > Locations > Page 3164
1. Remove the passenger's dashboard undercover, 2. Remove the right kick panel, 3. Disconnect
the injector control module connector (A).
4. Remove the injector control module (B). 5. Install the parts in the reverse order of removal.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Fuel Level Sensor >
Component Information > Service and Repair
1. Remove the fuel tank unit. 2. Remove the fuel level sensor (fuel sending unit) (A) from the fuel
tank unit (B).
- When connecting the wire harness, make sure the connection is secure and the connectors (C)
are firmly locked into place.
- When installing the fuel gauge sending unit, make sure the connection is secure. Be careful not to
bend or twist it excessively.
4. Install the parts in the reverse order of removal. When installing the fuel tank unit, align the
marks on the unit and the fuel tank.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor >
Component Information > Locations
The FTP sensor converts fuel tank absolute pressure into an electrical input to the ECM/PCM.
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Component Information > Locations > Page 3173
1. Remove the fuel joint block. 2. Remove the FTP sensor (A).
3. Apply silicone oil or polyalkyleneglycol (PAG) oil to a new O-ring (B) and carefully install it into its
proper position. 4. Install the parts in the reverse order of removal. 5. Do the leak inspection
procedure.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor
(CNG) > Component Information > Locations
1. Remove the fuel joint block. 2. Remove the FTT sensor (A).
3. Apply silicone oil or polyalkyleneglycol (PAG) oil to a new O-ring (B) and carefully install it into its
proper position. 4. Install the parts in the reverse order of removal. 5. Do the leak inspection
procedure.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Information Bus > Component
Information > Locations
Circuit Schematics
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Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3189
Circuit Schematics
Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show
current flow, from power at the top of the diagram, to ground at the bottom.
Shared Circuits
Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that
connects one circuit to another, for example, is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it
pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or
component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring, check the operation of a
component it serves. If that component works, you know the shared wiring is OK.
Connectors
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Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3190
All in-line and junction connectors are numbered (C725, C416, etc.). Component connectors are
not numbered but are identified either by the name of the component if the component only has
one connector, or by a capital letter (A, B, C, etc.) if the component has more than one connector.
Below most connector numbers and component names are PHOTO and VIEW numbers. The
PHOTO number refers to a photo at Vehicle Level Locations that shows the connector's location on
the car. The VIEW number refers to an connector view at the Vehicle Level Connector Views that
shows the connector terminals, wire colors, connector cavity numbers, and other details.
The connector cavity numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector as seen
from either of the viewpoints. Except for the DLC (data link connector), disregard any numbers
molded into the connector housing.
Wires
Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the
stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number "2" next to the male
and female wire terminals at C554, for example, means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector
C554.
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the vehicle. Refer to the Power Distribution Diagram Set to get a more detailed
understanding of how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on. Individual circuit
schematics begin with a fuse. So if Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another
circuit share a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good
and power is available to the inoperative circuit.
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share the same
ground point.
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Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3194
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How to Identify Connector Terminals
Connector terminals are numbered according to the cavities they are in. The cavities are numbered
starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side or looking at the
female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the
same. All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not
the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the
connector face.
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Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3198
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown above is #6.
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Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3199
The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice
connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for
all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement
terminal availability.
On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged,
replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If
any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it.
Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the
wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the
terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to
make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a
factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS.
Use the tools from Pin Tool Set. First, check the connector that you are about to repair.
- If it has a secondary terminal lock, go to Connectors With a Secondary Lock. A secondary lock,
found on most connectors on some models, is an additional locking device on the connector
housing as a backup for the primary lock on the terminal.
- If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock.
All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the
secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the
connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities.
EXAMPLE A:
EXAMPLE B:
EXAMPLE C:
EXAMPLE D:
2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW
TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE E:
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Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3203
1. Remove the secondary locks.
2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW
TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE F:
3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of
connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary
in size and shape.
EXAMPLE A:
EXAMPLE B:
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Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3205
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE C:
EXAMPLE D:
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Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3206
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE E:
EXAMPLE F:
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Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3207
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE G:
1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct
replacement terminal based on the wire size range
NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part
number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available
through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures.
2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool.
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Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3208
3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the
wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from
the kit.)
NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did,
cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again.
4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the
anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown
in step 3.
6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact.
- If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool
over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the
stops make contact.
- If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully
squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape.
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Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3209
8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the following NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and
start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the
way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure
10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector.
Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too
short or when access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair.
On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged,
replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If
any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it.
1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from
Pin Tool Set.
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Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3210
2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal,
then strip about half of the insulation off that piece.
This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal.
NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will
not nick or cut off any strands of wires.
3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and
same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit
onto the stripped end of the original wire.
5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the
pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more
than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at
the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the
harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make
each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail.
7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends
of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue
NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the
stripper.
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8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the
flare begins), and close the crimper handles far
enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click,
squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open.
9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the
wire all the way into the splice connector, and
squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until
the ratchet clicks again.
10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After
crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the
connector.
12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire(s), and shield them with
nonflammable material.
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13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the
gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat
evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete
when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube.
NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun.
Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the
wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size)
splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select
the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in
quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures.
Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the
Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching
connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body.
1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector.
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Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3213
2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool.
NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal
because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit.
3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal
with a replacement terminal from the appropriate
Five-Step Troubleshooting
Five-Step Troubleshooting
Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint.
Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
problem area.
Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by
tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground (certain
circuits contain a "How the Circuit Works" Diagram set). Also, trace circuits that share wiring with
the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on,
are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step
1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used
only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely
cause.
Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more
possible causes.
Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple
procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to
make tests at points that are easily accessible.
Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe
procedures.
Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire
problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure
no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur.
Test Equipment
Test Equipment
CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
1O-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up
of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to
various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is
voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital
volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is
between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM).
In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low
resistance means good continuity.
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Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a
reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is
affecting the measurement.
To order any test equipment shown, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool
numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin.
Jumper Wire
Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder
connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire
across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse.
To order any test equipment shown, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool
numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin.
Troubleshooting Precautions
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION: -
Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
- Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles.
2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part
Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place.
CAUTION: -
Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
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- Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-mega
ohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that
contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
Troubleshooting Tests
Troubleshooting Tests
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt
ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest
"OHMS" range.
2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you
want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end.
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4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or
no reading (zero), means good continuity.
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem. Circuits must be operating when checking
voltage drop.
1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts
range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage
is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM
voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
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Information Bus: Electrical Diagrams
Wiring Diagrams
Diagram 50-0
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Diagram 50-1
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Diagram 50-2
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Diagram 50-3
Diagrams: Other diagrams referred to by number (See Diagram ##-#, etc.) within these diagrams
can be found at Diagrams by Number. See: Diagrams/Electrical Diagrams/Diagrams By Number
Locations: Location photographs (references to PHOTOS) referred to within these diagrams can be
found at Locations by Photo Number. See: Locations/Component Locations/Locations By Photo
Number
Connector Views: Connector terminal views (references to VIEWS) referred to within these
diagrams can be found at Connector Views by View Number. See: Diagrams/Connector
Views/Connector Views By View Number
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System Description
MICU Control Functions Index
The MICU (built into the under-dash fuse/relay box) is one of the B-CAN components. The MICU
controls many systems related to the body controller area and a security system, and also works as
a gateway to diagnose the other B-CAN connected ECUs with the HDS.
- Horn
- Interlock system
- Key-in reminder
- Keyless entry
- Lights-on reminder
- Security alarm
- Wiper/washer
Body Controller Area Network (B-CAN) and Fast Controller Area Network (F-CAN)
The body controller area network (B-CAN) and the fast controller area network (F-CAN) share
information between multiple electronic control units (ECUs). B-CAN communication moves at a
slower speed (33.33 kbps) for convenience related items and for other functions. F-CAN
information moves at a faster speed (500 kbps) for "real time" functions such as fuel and emissions
data. To allow both systems to share information, the gauge control module translates information
from B-CAN to F-CAN and from F-CAN to B-CAN.
- The single wire method is used between the units not requiring the communication to move at a
fast speed.
- Using a single wire method reduces the number of the wires used on the body controller area
network.
Gateway Function
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The gauge control module (tach) acts as a gateway to allow both systems to share information, the
gauge control module translates information from B-CAN to F-CAN and from F-CAN to B-CAN.
Network "Loss of Communication" Error Checking Function
The ECUs on the CAN circuit send messages to each other. If there are any malfunctions on the
network, the odo/trip display on the gauge control module can indicate the error messages by
entering the gauge self-diagnostic function.
NOTE: For further information about Error indication, refer to the gauge control module
self-diagnostic function.
Self-diagnostic Function
By connecting the HDS to the data link connector (DLC), the HDS can retrieve the diagnostic
results from the MICU via a diagnostic line called K-LINE. The K-LINE is distinguished from the
CAN line, and connected to the CAN related ECUs. The MICU is a gateway between the HDS and
B-CAN related ECUs, and sends B-CAN diagnostic results to the HDS. When performing a function
test with the HDS, the HDS sends an output signal through the K-LINE to the MICU. The MICU
either relays the request to another ECU, or commands the function its self.
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The multiplex integrated control system has "wake-up" and "sleep" functions to decrease parasitic
draw on the battery when the ignition switch is OFF.
- In the sleep mode, the MICU stops functioning (communication and CPU control) when it is not
necessary for the system to operate.
- As soon as any operation is requested (for example, a door is unlocked), the related control unit
in the sleep mode immediately wakes up and begins to function.
- When the ignition switch is turned OFF, and the driver's door is opened, then closed, there is a
delay about 40 seconds before the control unit goes from the wake-up mode to the sleep mode.
- The sleep mode will not function if any door is opened or if a key is in the ignition.
- The draw is reduced from 200 mA to less than 35 mA when in the sleep mode.
NOTE: For Sleep and Wake-up Mode Test, refer to Information Bus/Testing and
Inspection/Component Tests and General Diagnostics.
Fail-safe Function
To prevent improper operation, the MICU has a fail-safe function. In the fail-safe mode, the output
signal is fixed when any part of the system malfunctions (for example, a faulty control unit or
communication line). Each control unit has a hardware fail-safe function that fixes the output signal
when there is a CPU malfunction, and a software fail-safe function that ignores the signal from a
malfunctioning control unit, which allows the system to operate normally.
Fail-safe function
When a CPU problem or a abnormal power supply voltage is detected, the MICU moves to the
hardware fail-safe mode, and each system output load is set to the pre-programmed fail-safe value.
When any of the data from the B-CAN circuit cannot be received within a specified time, or an
unusual combination of the data is recognized, the MICU
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moves to the software fail-safe mode. The data that cannot be received is forced to a
pre-programmed value.
The MICU monitors the power supply voltage (back-up voltage). If the voltage goes below 10 V, the
MICU sends a MICU message and will not store DTCs.
The MICU controls the ceiling light ON/OFF and dimming based upon the input signals from each
switch.
lighting system (Headlights, Parking Lights, Side Marker Lights, License Plate Lights, and
Taillights)
The MICU contains the relay circuits of the headlight high/low beam and taillights, and controls the
lighting system ON/OFF based upon the input signals from the combination light switch.
The MICU controls the exterior lights as a daytime running lights based upon the input signals from
the each switch.
The MICU controls the turn signal/hazard warning based upon the input signals from the turn signal
and hazard warning switches.
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Power Door Locks (Vehicle Speed Sense)
The MICU controls the door lock actuators based upon the B-CAN and input signals.
The MICU controls the door lock actuators based upon the input signals of each switch.
The MICU controls the door lock actuators based upon the B-CAN signals.
The MICU controls the power windows key-off operation based upon the input signals.
The MICU controls the door lock actuators based upon the input signals of each switch and the
B-CAN signals.
Keyless PANIC
The MICU controls the keyless PANIC based upon the B-CAN signals.
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Security Alarm System
The MICU controls the lighting system and horn based upon the input signals of each switch and
the B-CAN signals.
Key-in Reminder
The MICU controls the door lock actuators based upon the IG1, the driver's door switch, and the
driver's door lock knob switch signals.
The MICU controls the key interlock solenoid based upon the IG1, the transmission range switch,
and the park-pin switch signals.
The MICU controls the lighting system and horn based upon the B-CAN signals.
Wiper/Washer
The MICU controls the wiper motor and the washer motor based upon the IG1 and the
wiper/washer switch signals.
Certain inputs happen so quickly that the HDS cannot update fast enough. Hold the switch that is
being tested while monitoring the Data List.
This should give the HDS time to update the signal on the Data List.
Because the HDS software is updated to support the release for newer vehicles it is not uncommon
to see system function tests that are not supported.
The multiplex integrated control system sends digital signals between control units through shared
wires to reduce the number of wires in order to make harnesses lighter.
The input signals from each switch are converted to digital signals within the receiving control unit.
The digital signals are sent from one control unit to another as serial data over dedicated
communication lines. When the appropriate control unit receives the digital signal, it converts the
signal back to an operational command, such as operating a relay. The multiplex integrated control
system schematic shows its power, grounds, and communication lines. The ceiling light is shown
because it is used to blink DTC's when the system is in the self-diagnostic mode.
There are two different networks within the multiplex integrated control system:
The body controller area network (B-CAN) and fast controller area network (F-CAN) share
information between multiple electronic control units and work together to form the multiplex
integrated control system. The gauge control module translates information from B-CAN to F-CAN
and from F-CAN to B-CAN to allow the networks to share information.
B-CAN Network
B-CAN information is transmitted across the communication lines at a slower speed for
convenience related operations that do not require a high process speed.
- Exterior Lights
- Horn
- Interior Lights
- Reminder Systems
- Safety Indicator
- Wiper/washer
F-CAN Network
F-CAN information is transmitted across the communication lines at a faster speed for "real time"
functions such as fuel, emissions, and traction control data. The following control units operate on
the F-CAN network:
- ABS Modulator-Control Unit (except '07 Si)
- ECM/PCM
- SRS Unit
Since messages on the F-CAN network are typically of higher importance, a second wire is used
for communication circuit integrity monitoring.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Information Bus > Component
Information > Testing and Inspection > Initial Inspection and Diagnostic Overview
NOTE: Check the ECM/PCM for DTCs and troubleshoot ECM/PCM or F-CAN loss of
communication errors first.
1. Go to B-CAN System Diagnosis Test Mode A to check for "Connected units" and DTCs. See:
Component Tests and General
2. If no DTCs are retrieved, go to B-CAN System Diagnosis Test Mode C or D. See: Component
Tests and General Diagnostics/Troubleshooting -
1. Check for communication circuit problems using B-CAN System Diagnostic Test. 2. Check for
DTCs. 3. Sort, and then troubleshoot the DTCs in the order below.
1. Battery voltage DTCs 2. Internal error DTCs 3. Loss of communication DTCs (beginning with the
lowest number first; for example, if B1008 and B1011 are retrieved, troubleshoot B1008
first)
4. If no DTCs are retrieved, use B-CAN System Diagnostic Test Mode 2 to check all inputs related
to failure.
While in Test Mode 1, the DTCs which have been detected and stored individually by various
B-CAN (Body-controller Area Network) units, will be shown one by one on the odometer display
when the communication between the MICU and the gauge control module is normal. To scroll
through the DTCs, press the select/reset button.
The unit that has stored the code can be identified by the number shown on the multi-information
display.
While in Test Mode 1, press and hold down the SELECT/RESET button for more than 10 seconds.
When an ECU is unable to communicate with the other ECUs on the CAN circuit, the other control
units will set loss of communication DTCs. Use this
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1. Find the Transmitting Control Unit that is in the same row as all of the loss of communication
DTCs retrieved. 2. Do the input test for the transmitting control unit.
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NOTE: Check the ECM/PCM for DTCs and troubleshoot ECM/PCM or F-CAN loss of
communication errors first.
1. Go to B-CAN System Diagnosis Test Mode A to check for "Connected units" and DTCs. See:
Component Tests and General
2. If no DTCs are retrieved, go to B-CAN System Diagnosis Test Mode C or D. See: Component
Tests and General Diagnostics/Troubleshooting -
1. Check for communication circuit problems using B-CAN System Diagnostic Test. 2. Check for
DTCs. 3. Sort, and then troubleshoot the DTCs in the order below.
1. Battery voltage DTCs 2. Internal error DTCs 3. Loss of communication DTCs (beginning with the
lowest number first; for example, if B1008 and B1011 are retrieved, troubleshoot B1008
first)
4. If no DTCs are retrieved, use B-CAN System Diagnostic Test Mode 2 to check all inputs related
to failure.
While in Test Mode 1, the DTCs which have been detected and stored individually by various
B-CAN (Body-controller Area Network) units, will be shown one by one on the odometer display
when the communication between the MICU and the gauge control module is normal. To scroll
through the DTCs, press the select/reset button.
The unit that has stored the code can be identified by the number shown on the multi-information
display.
While in Test Mode 1, press and hold down the SELECT/RESET button for more than 10 seconds.
When an ECU is unable to communicate with the other ECUs on the CAN circuit, the other control
units will set loss of communication DTCs. Use this
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Information > Testing and Inspection > Initial Inspection and Diagnostic Overview > Page 3237
1. Find the Transmitting Control Unit that is in the same row as all of the loss of communication
DTCs retrieved. 2. Do the input test for the transmitting control unit.
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Information > Testing and Inspection > Initial Inspection and Diagnostic Overview > Page 3238
Information Bus: Component Tests and General Diagnostics
1. Before troubleshooting the multiplex integrated control system, troubleshoot the system using
B-CAN System Diagnosis Test Mode A. 2. Check the No. 10 (7.5 A) fuse in the under-dash
fuse/relay box. If any fuse is blown, replace it and go to step 3. 3. Disconnect under-dash fuse/relay
box connectors E, F, G, K, and T.
4. Inspect the connector and socket terminals to be sure they are all making good contact.
- If the terminals are bent, loose or corroded, repair them as necessary and recheck the system.
5. With the connector still disconnected, make these input tests at the appropriate connector.
- If any test indicates a problem, find and correct the cause, then recheck the system.
6. Reconnect the connectors to the under-dash fuse/relay box, and make these input tests at the
connectors.
- If any test indicates a problem, find and correct the cause, then recheck the system.
- If all the input tests prove OK, the MICU must be faulty; replace the under-dash fuse/relay box.
Measure the voltage on the B-CAN communication line (PNK wires); there should be battery
voltage in the sleep mode. Check the parasitic draw at the battery while shifting into the sleep
mode; amperage should change from about 200 mA to less than 35 mA.
When the ignition switch is turned ON (II), the MICU, gauge control module, immobilizer-keyless
control unit-receiver, and PCM wake up at the same time without "talking" to each other through
the communication lines. When any switch in the multiplex integrated control system is turned on, it
wakes up its related control unit which, in turn, wakes up the other units. After confirming the sleep
mode, look in the following table for the switch most related to the problem. Operate that switch
and see if its control unit wakes up.
NOTE: If any control unit is faulty and will not wake up, several circuits in the system will
malfunction at the same time. In the table, the control unit is followed by a list of the switches and
input signals that can wake it up.
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Troubleshooting - B-CAN System Diagnosis Test Mode A
Check the ECM/PCM for DTCs and troubleshoot ECM/PCM or F-CAN loss of communication
errors first, then perform this diagnosis if the symptom is related to the B-CAN system.
NOTE: Always cycle the ignition switch within 3 seconds when prompted in the DTC
troubleshooting procedures.
- Exterior lights
- Turn signals
- Interior lights
- Wiper/washer
- Security
- Keyless entry
- Key interlock
YES - Go to step 2.
2. Connect the HDS to the data link connector (A), then turn the ignition switch ON (II).
3. From the BODY ELECTRICAL menu, select UNIT INFORMATION, and then select
CONNECTED UNIT listed to see if the following control
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units are communicating with the HDS.
- MICU
NOTE: -
- If a unit is not communicating or the vehicle is not equipped, "Not Available" will be displayed.
YES - Go to step 4.
NO - If any of the control units are not communicating, go to B-CAN System Diagnosis Test Mode
B. If all units are not communicating or only the MICU is communicating, go to DTC B1000
troubleshooting. See: Testing and Inspection/Diagnostic Trouble Code Tests and Associated
Procedures/B Code Charts/B1000
4. Select the system that has the problem from the BODY ELECTRICAL menu, then select DTCs.
YES - Go to step 5.
NO - If the problem is related to one of the following items, go to B-CAN System Diagnosis Test
Mode C if the system does not stop or turn off. Go to Test Mode D if the system does not run or
turn on.
- Exterior lights
- Turn signals
- Interior lights
- Wiper/washer
If the problem is related to one of the following items, go to the troubleshooting for that individual
system.
- Security
- Keyless entry
- Key interlock
5. Record all DTCs, and sort them by DTC type. 6. Troubleshoot the DTC(s) in this order:
- Loss of communication DTCs. Begin troubleshooting with the lowest number first (Example: if
DTC B1008 and B1011 are retrieved, begin by troubleshooting B1008).
Perform this diagnosis if any of the control units are not communicating (Not Available is displayed
in the HDS) as found by the B-CAN System Diagnosis Test Mode A.
1. Using the HDS, select the system that has the symptom from the BODY ELECTRICAL menu. 2.
Select DTCs, and then check for loss of communication DTCs.
YES - Go to step 3.
3. Perform the input test for the unit not communicating with the HDS.
Perform this diagnosis if a component that is controlled by the B-CAN system does not stop or turn
off.
NOTE:
- If the component does not turn on, go to B-CAN System Diagnosis Test Mode D.
- See the B-CAN system unit input/output index for a list of input and output devices and the control
units that monitor the input and controls the output devices.
- Always cycle the ignition switch within 3 seconds when prompted in the DTC troubleshooting
procedures.
1. Check for DTCs by selecting the TEST MODE menu from the HDS.
NO - Go to step 2.
2. Turn off the switch that controls the malfunctioning component. 3. Select DATA LIST from the
TEST MODE menu, and check the input of the switch that controls the component.
YES - Go to step 4.
NO - Go to step 6.
4. In the DATA LIST, check the output signal of the malfunctioning component.
YES - Go to step 5.
NO - Replace the control unit that controls the device that will not turn OFF.
5. Check the relay, if applicable, then check for a short in the wire between the relay and the
component, the relay and control unit, or the component
YES - Replace the control unit that controls the component that will not turn OFF.
6. Check the switch, then check for a short in the wire between the switch and the control unit that
monitors the switch.
Perform this diagnosis if a component that is controlled by the B-CAN system does not run or come
on.
NOTE:
- If the component does not turn off or stop, go to B-CAN System Diagnosis Test Mode C.
- See the B-CAN system unit input/output index for a list of input and output devices and the control
units that monitor the input and controls the output devices.
- Always cycle the ignition switch within 3 seconds when prompted in the DTC troubleshooting
procedures.
YES - Go to step 2.
2. Check for DTCs by selecting the TEST MODE menu from the HDS.
NO - Go to step 3.
3. Turn ON the switch that controls the malfunctioning component. 4. Select DATA LIST from the
TEST MODE menu, and check output signal for the malfunctioning component.
YES - Go to step 5.
NO - Go to step 9.
5. Check the relay and ground, then check for an open or a short in the circuit for the
malfunctioning component.
YES - Go to step 6.
YES - Go to step 7.
7. With the malfunctioning output device connected, connect a voltmeter between the
malfunctioning output device and body ground on the wire that
the control unit uses to control the output device circuit.
8. Select MISC. TEST from the TEST MODE menu, and do the forced operation test of the
malfunctioning component.
9. Select DATA LIST from the TEST MODE menu, and make sure the switch signal input for the
malfunctioning system indicates a change when
operated.
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YES - Replace the control unit that controls the malfunctioning component.
NO - Go to step 10.
10. Check the switch and its ground (if applicable), then check for an open or a short in the wire
between the switch and the control unit that monitors
it.
Troubleshooting - B-CAN System Diagnosis Test Mode 1 and Test Mode 2 (Without the HDS)
Troubleshooting - B-CAN System Diagnosis Test Mode 1 and Test Mode 2 (without the HDS)
Test Mode 1
Check the PCM for DTCs and troubleshoot PCM or F-CAN loss of communication errors first, then
perform this diagnosis if the HDS is not available.
1. Check the No. 23 (10 A) fuse in the under-hood fuse/relay box and No. 10 (7.5 A) fuse in the
under-dash fuse/relay box.
2. Remove the left kick panel. 3. Turn the ignition switch ON (II), and move the ceiling light switch
to the middle (door) position. 4. Connect the MPCS service connector (A) to the MCIC socket (B) in
the under-dash fuse/relay box.
5. Wait 5 seconds, and watch the ceiling light. When the ceiling light flashes quickly once, and then
goes off the system is in Test Mode 1. 6. Check for B-CAN DTCs indicated by the gauge control
module (tach) odometer/trip meter display while still in Test Mode 1. Push the odometer
select/reset button to display the next code. After you get to the last code, the display shows END.
If no DTCs are stored, the display will read NO.
YES - Go to step 7.
NO - Go to step 10.
7. Record all DTCs and sort them. 8. Troubleshoot the DTCs in this order:
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- Battery voltage DTCs
- Loss of communication DTCs (begin with the lowest number first; for example, if B1008 and
B1011 are retrieved, troubleshoot B1008 first)
9. Clear the DTCs by pressing and holding the select/reset button for about 13 seconds. You will
hear a beep to confirm the codes have been cleared.
Test Mode 2
10. Remove the MPCS service connector from the under-dash fuse/relay box socket for 5-10
seconds, then re-insert it to enter Mode 2. When the
system enters Mode 2, the ceiling light will flash two times quickly and then go off.
NOTE: If the MPCS connector is disconnected for too short or too long of a time, or the ignition
switch is turned OFF, the system will return to Test Mode 1.
11. The following tables list the circuits that can be checked in Test Mode 2. Operate the switch
that is most closely related to the problem. If the
circuit is OK, the ceiling light will blink once. If the circuit is faulty, there will be no indication.
YES - Go to function and input test for the system related to the failure.
Knock Sensor
The knock control system adjusts the ignition timing to minimize knock.
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1. Remove the intake manifold. 2. Disconnect the knock sensor 1P connector (A).
3. Remove the knock sensor (B). 4. Install the parts in the reverse order of removal.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Main Relay (Computer/Fuel
System) > Component Information > Locations
PGM-FI main relay 1 is energized whenever the ignition switch is ON (II) to supply battery voltage
to the PCM, and power for the injector control module relay and the ETCS control relay.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
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System) > Component Information > Locations > Page 3258
Main Relay (Computer/Fuel System): Testing and Inspection
Use this chart to identify the type of relay, then do the test listed for it.
Normally-open type
- There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when battery positive terminal
is connected to the No. 4 terminal, and battery negative terminal is connected to the No. 3 terminal.
- There should be no continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power is
disconnected.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Malfunction Indicator Lamp >
Component Information > Description and Operation
Malfunction Indicator Lamp: Description and Operation
The vehicle has certain "readiness codes" that are part of the on-board diagnostics for the
emissions systems. If the vehicle's battery has been disconnected or gone dead, if the DTCs have
been cleared, or if the PCM has been reset, these codes are reset. In some states, part of the
emissions testing is to make sure these codes are set to complete. If all of them are not set to
complete, the vehicle may fail the test, or the test cannot be finished.
To check if the readiness codes are set to complete, turn the ignition switch ON (II), but do not start
the engine. The MIL will come on for 15-20 seconds. If it then goes off, the readiness codes are
complete'. If it flashes five times, one or more readiness codes are not complete. To set each code,
drive the vehicle or run the engine as described in the procedures.
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Component Information > Description and Operation > Page 3262
YES - Go to step 3.
NO - Substitute a known-good gauge control module (tach), and recheck. If the MIL circuit is OK,
replace the original gauge control module (tach).
3. Connect the HDS to the DLC. 4. Check the SCS in the DATA LIST with the HDS.
Is a short indicated?
YES - Go to step 5.
NO - Update the ECM/PCM if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a known-good
ECM/PCM, then recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away with a known-good ECM/PCM,
replace the original ECM/PCM.
5. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 6. Disconnect ECM/PCM connector A (44P), then disconnect the
HDS. 7. Check for continuity between ECM/PCM connector terminal A31 and body ground.
Is there continuity?
YES - Repair short in the wire between the ECM/PCM (A31) and the SRS unit, the DLC.
NO - Update the ECM/PCM if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a known-good
ECM/PCM, then recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away with a known-good ECM/PCM,
replace the original ECM/PCM.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Manifold Pressure/Vacuum
Sensor > Component Information > Locations
The MAP sensor converts manifold absolute pressure into electrical signals to the PCM.
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Sensor > Component Information > Locations > Page 3269
1. Remove the cowl cover and under-cowl panel. 2. Disconnect the MAP sensor 3P connector (A).
3. Remove the MAP sensor (B). 4. Install the parts in the reverse order of removal with a new
O-ring (C).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Oil Pressure Sensor >
Component Information > Locations
1. Remove the oil pressure switch connector (A) from the engine oil pressure switch (B).
2. Check for continuity between the positive terminal (C) and the engine (ground). There should be
continuity with the engine stopped. There should
1. Disconnect the oil pressure switch connector, then remove the oil pressure switch.
2. Remove any old liquid gasket from the switch and switch mounting hole. 3. Apply very small
amount of liquid gasket to the oil pressure switch threads, then install the oil pressure switch.
NOTE: Using too much liquid gasket may cause liquid gasket to enter the oil passage or the end of
the new oil pressure switch.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Oxygen Sensor > Component
Information > Locations > Component Locations
PGM-FI System Component Location Index
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Oxygen Sensor > Component
Information > Locations > Component Locations > Page 3279
Oxygen Sensor: Description and Operation Air Fuel Ratio (A/F) Sensor
The A/F sensor operates over a wide air/fuel range. The A/F sensor is installed upstream of the
TWC, and sends signals to the PCM which varies the duration of fuel injection accordingly.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Oxygen Sensor > Component
Information > Description and Operation > Air Fuel Ratio (A/F) Sensor > Page 3283
The secondary HO2S detects the oxygen content in the exhaust gas downstream of the three way
catalytic converter (TWC), and sends signals to the PCM which varies the duration of fuel injection
accordingly. To stabilize its output, the sensor has an internal heater. The PCM compares the
HO2S output with the A/F sensor output to determine catalyst efficiency. The secondary HO2S is
located on the TWC.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Oxygen Sensor > Component
Information > Service and Repair > A/F Sensor Replacement
1. Disconnect the A/F sensor 4P connector (A), then remove the A/F sensor (B).
1. Disconnect the secondary HO2S 4P connector (A), then remove the secondary HO2S (B).
The PSP switch signals the PCM when the power steering load is high.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Power Steering Pressure Switch
> Component Information > Locations > Page 3293
1. Start the engine, and let it idle. 2. Align the steering wheel straight ahead. 3. Check the PSP
SWITCH in the DATA LIST with the HDS.
YES - Go to step 4.
NO - Go to step 14.
4. Turn the steering wheel to the full lock position. 5. Check the PSP SWITCH in the DATA LIST
with the HDS.
NO - Go to step 6.
6. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 7. Disconnect the PSP switch 2P connector. 8. Start the engine. 9.
Check the PSP SWITCH in the DATA LIST with the HDS.
NO - Go to step 10.
10. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 11. Jump the SCS line with the HDS. 12. Disconnect ECM/PCM
connector A (44P). 13. Check for continuity between PSP switch 2P connector terminal No. 1 and
body ground.
Is there continuity?
YES - Repair short in the wire between the ECM/PCM (A22) and the PSP switch.
NO - Update the ECM/PCM if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a known-good
ECM/PCM, then recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away with a known-good ECM/PCM,
replace the original ECM/PCM.
14. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 15. Disconnect the PSP switch 2P connector. 16. Connect PSP
switch 2P connector terminals No. 1 and No. 2 with a jumper wire, then start the engine.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Power Steering Pressure Switch
> Component Information > Locations > Page 3294
17. Check the PSP SWITCH in the DATA LIST with the HDS.
NO - Go to step 18.
18. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 19. Remove the jumper wire from the PSP switch 2P connector.
20. Jump the SCS line with the HDS. 21. Disconnect ECM/PCM connector A (44P). 22. Connect
PSP switch 2P connector terminal No. 1 to body ground with a jumper wire.
23. Check for continuity between body ground and ECM/PCM connector terminal A22.
Is there continuity?
NO - Repair open in the wire between the PSP switch and the ECM/PCM (A22).
24. Check for continuity between PSP switch 2P connector terminal No. 2 and body ground.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Power Steering Pressure Switch
> Component Information > Locations > Page 3295
Is there continuity?
YES - Update the ECM/PCM if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a known-good
ECM/PCM, then recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away with a known-good ECM/PCM,
replace the original ECM/PCM.
NO - Repair open in the wire between the PSP switch and G401.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Power Steering Pressure Switch
> Component Information > Locations > Page 3296
Use this chart to identify the type of relay, then do the test listed for it.
Normally-open type
- There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when battery positive terminal
is connected to the No. 4 terminal, and battery negative terminal is connected to the No. 3 terminal.
- There should be no continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power is
disconnected.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Relays and Modules -
Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Customer Interest: > 09-047 > Sep > 09 > Engine Controls - MIL ON/Multiple DTCs Set
Engine Control Module: Customer Interest Engine Controls - MIL ON/Multiple DTCs Set
09-0471
MIL Comes On With DTC P0962, P0963, P0966, P0967, P0970, or P0971 (Supersedes 09-047,
dated June 30, 2009, to revise the information marked by asterisks)
*REVISION SUMMARY
^ Under PARTS INFORMATION, you are now referred to the parts catalog for part numbers and
descriptions.
^ Under VEHICLES AFFECTED, the Accord L4, the Civic (except Si), and the CR-V have been
changed to A/T.*
SYMPTOM
PROBABLE CAUSE
VEHICLES AFFECTED
CORRECTIVE ACTION
PARTS INFORMATION
Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request
consideration, and get a decision, before starting work.
DIAGNOSIS
Connect the HDS to the vehicle's DLC, and check for DTCs.
NO - This service bulletin does not apply. Continue with normal troubleshooting.
REPAIR PROCEDURE
^ Online, enter keywords PCM REPLACE, and select ECM/PCM Replacement or PCM
Replacement from the list.
Disclaimer
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Relays and Modules -
Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Technical Service Bulletins for Engine Control Module: > 03-020 > Apr > 10 > Emissions - OBD II DTC's And Associated
Monitors
Engine Control Module: All Technical Service Bulletins Emissions - OBD II DTC's And Associated
Monitors
03-020
April 2, 2010
*REVISION SUMMARY
Following is a list of all OBD II DTCs and their associated monitors for all Honda automobiles with
OBD II. No one model has every DTC in the list.
Disclaimer
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Relays and Modules -
Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Technical Service Bulletins for Engine Control Module: > 09-047 > Sep > 09 > Engine Controls - MIL ON/Multiple DTCs Set
Engine Control Module: All Technical Service Bulletins Engine Controls - MIL ON/Multiple DTCs
Set
09-0471
MIL Comes On With DTC P0962, P0963, P0966, P0967, P0970, or P0971 (Supersedes 09-047,
dated June 30, 2009, to revise the information marked by asterisks)
*REVISION SUMMARY
^ Under PARTS INFORMATION, you are now referred to the parts catalog for part numbers and
descriptions.
^ Under VEHICLES AFFECTED, the Accord L4, the Civic (except Si), and the CR-V have been
changed to A/T.*
SYMPTOM
PROBABLE CAUSE
VEHICLES AFFECTED
CORRECTIVE ACTION
PARTS INFORMATION
Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request
consideration, and get a decision, before starting work.
DIAGNOSIS
Connect the HDS to the vehicle's DLC, and check for DTCs.
NO - This service bulletin does not apply. Continue with normal troubleshooting.
REPAIR PROCEDURE
^ Online, enter keywords PCM REPLACE, and select ECM/PCM Replacement or PCM
Replacement from the list.
Disclaimer
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Relays and Modules -
Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Other Service Bulletins for Engine Control Module: > 03-020 > Apr > 10 > Emissions - OBD II DTC's And Associated
Monitors
Engine Control Module: All Technical Service Bulletins Emissions - OBD II DTC's And Associated
Monitors
03-020
April 2, 2010
*REVISION SUMMARY
Following is a list of all OBD II DTCs and their associated monitors for all Honda automobiles with
OBD II. No one model has every DTC in the list.
Disclaimer
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Relays and Modules -
Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page
3353
Shared Circuits
Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that
connects one circuit to another, for example, is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it
pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or
component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring, check the operation of a
component it serves. If that component works, you know the shared wiring is OK.
Connectors
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Relays and Modules -
Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information
and Instructions > Page 3358
All in-line and junction connectors are numbered (C725, C416, etc.). Component connectors are
not numbered but are identified either by the name of the component if the component only has
one connector, or by a capital letter (A, B, C, etc.) if the component has more than one connector.
Below most connector numbers and component names are PHOTO and VIEW numbers. The
PHOTO number refers to a photo at Vehicle Level Locations that shows the connector's location on
the car. The VIEW number refers to an connector view at the Vehicle Level Connector Views that
shows the connector terminals, wire colors, connector cavity numbers, and other details.
The connector cavity numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector as seen
from either of the viewpoints. Except for the DLC (data link connector), disregard any numbers
molded into the connector housing.
Wires
Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the
stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number "2" next to the male
and female wire terminals at C554, for example, means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector
C554.
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the vehicle. Refer to the Power Distribution Diagram Set to get a more detailed
understanding of how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on. Individual circuit
schematics begin with a fuse. So if Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another
circuit share a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good
and power is available to the inoperative circuit.
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share the same
ground point.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
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Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information
and Instructions > Page 3360
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Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information
and Instructions > Page 3361
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Relays and Modules -
Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information
and Instructions > Page 3362
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Relays and Modules -
Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information
and Instructions > Page 3363
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Relays and Modules -
Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information
and Instructions > Page 3364
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Relays and Modules -
Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information
and Instructions > Page 3365
How to Identify Connector Terminals
How to Identify Connector Terminals
Connector terminals are numbered according to the cavities they are in. The cavities are numbered
starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side or looking at the
female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the
same. All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not
the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the
connector face.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Relays and Modules -
Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information
and Instructions > Page 3366
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown above is #6.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Relays and Modules -
Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information
and Instructions > Page 3367
The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice
connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for
all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement
terminal availability.
On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged,
replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If
any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it.
Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the
wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the
terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to
make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a
factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS.
Use the tools from Pin Tool Set. First, check the connector that you are about to repair.
- If it has a secondary terminal lock, go to Connectors With a Secondary Lock. A secondary lock,
found on most connectors on some models, is an additional locking device on the connector
housing as a backup for the primary lock on the terminal.
- If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock.
All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the
secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the
connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities.
EXAMPLE A:
2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW
TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE E:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Relays and Modules -
Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information
and Instructions > Page 3371
1. Remove the secondary locks.
2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW
TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE F:
All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of
connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary
in size and shape.
EXAMPLE A:
EXAMPLE B:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Relays and Modules -
Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information
and Instructions > Page 3373
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE C:
EXAMPLE D:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Relays and Modules -
Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information
and Instructions > Page 3374
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE E:
EXAMPLE F:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Relays and Modules -
Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information
and Instructions > Page 3375
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE G:
1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct
replacement terminal based on the wire size range
NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part
number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available
through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures.
2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Relays and Modules -
Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information
and Instructions > Page 3376
3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the
wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from
the kit.)
NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did,
cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again.
4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the
anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown
in step 3.
6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact.
- If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool
over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the
stops make contact.
- If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully
squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Relays and Modules -
Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information
and Instructions > Page 3377
8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the following NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and
start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the
way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure
10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector.
Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too
short or when access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair.
On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged,
replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If
any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it.
1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from
Pin Tool Set.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Relays and Modules -
Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information
and Instructions > Page 3378
2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal,
then strip about half of the insulation off that piece.
This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal.
NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will
not nick or cut off any strands of wires.
3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and
same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit
onto the stripped end of the original wire.
5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the
pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more
than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at
the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the
harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make
each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail.
7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends
of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue
NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the
stripper.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Relays and Modules -
Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information
and Instructions > Page 3379
8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the
flare begins), and close the crimper handles far
enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click,
squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open.
9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the
wire all the way into the splice connector, and
squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until
the ratchet clicks again.
10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After
crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the
connector.
12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire(s), and shield them with
nonflammable material.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Relays and Modules -
Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information
and Instructions > Page 3380
13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the
gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat
evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete
when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube.
NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun.
Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the
wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size)
splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select
the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in
quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures.
Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the
Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching
connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body.
1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Relays and Modules -
Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information
and Instructions > Page 3381
2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool.
NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal
because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit.
3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal
with a replacement terminal from the appropriate
Five-Step Troubleshooting
Five-Step Troubleshooting
Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint.
Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
problem area.
Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by
tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground (certain
circuits contain a "How the Circuit Works" Diagram set). Also, trace circuits that share wiring with
the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on,
are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step
1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used
only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely
cause.
Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more
possible causes.
Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple
procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to
make tests at points that are easily accessible.
Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe
procedures.
Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire
problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure
no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur.
Test Equipment
Test Equipment
CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
1O-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up
of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to
various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is
voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital
volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is
between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM).
In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low
resistance means good continuity.
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Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information
and Instructions > Page 3382
Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a
reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is
affecting the measurement.
To order any test equipment shown, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool
numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin.
Jumper Wire
Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder
connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire
across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse.
To order any test equipment shown, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool
numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin.
Troubleshooting Precautions
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION: -
Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
- Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles.
2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part
Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place.
CAUTION: -
Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Relays and Modules -
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and Instructions > Page 3383
- Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-mega
ohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that
contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
Troubleshooting Tests
Troubleshooting Tests
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt
ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest
"OHMS" range.
2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you
want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Relays and Modules -
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and Instructions > Page 3384
4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or
no reading (zero), means good continuity.
Testing for Voltage Drop
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem. Circuits must be operating when checking
voltage drop.
1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts
range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage
is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM
voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Relays and Modules -
Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information
and Instructions > Page 3385
NOTE: The PCM stays on up to 15 minutes after the ignition switch is turned OFF. Jumping the
SCS line after turning the ignition switch OFF cancels this function. Disconnecting the PCM during
this function, without jumping the SCS line first, can damage the PCM.
3. Lift up the under-hood fuse/relay box (D). 4. Remove the coolant reservoir (E). Disconnect PCM
connectors A, B, and C.
NOTE: PCM connectors A, B, and C have symbols (A=Square, B=triangle, C=circle) embossed on
them for identification.
5. When diagnosis/troubleshooting is done at the PCM connector, use the terminal test port (A)
above the terminal you need to check.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Relays and Modules -
Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > How to
Troubleshoot Circuits At the PCM > Page 3412
6. Connect one side of the patch cord (A) terminals to a commercially available digital multimeter
(B), and connect the other side of the patch cord
terminals to a commercially available banana jack (Pomona Electronics Tool No. 3563 or
equivalent) (C).
7. Gently contact the pin probe (male) at the terminal test port from the terminal side. Do not force
the tips into the terminals.
NOTE: -
- To prevent damage to the connector terminals, do not insert test equipment probes, paper clips,
or other substitutes as they can damage the terminals. Damaged terminals cause a poor
connection and an incorrect measurement.
- Do not puncture the insulation on a wire. Punctures can cause poor or intermittent electrical
connections.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Relays and Modules -
Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > How to
Troubleshoot Circuits At the PCM > Page 3413
ECM Reset
The PCM stores various specific data to correct the system even if there is no electrical power such
as when the battery negative terminal or No. 19 FI MAIN (15 A) fuse are disconnected. Stored data
based on failed parts should be cleared by using the CLEAR COMMAND of the HDS, if parts are
replaced.
The HDS has three kinds of clear commands to meet this purpose. They are DTC clear, PCM
reset, and CKP pattern clear. DTC clear command erases all stored DTC codes, freeze data,
on-board snapshot, and readiness codes. This must be done with the HDS after reproducing the
DTC during troubleshooting.
The PCM reset command erases all stored DTC codes, freeze data, on-board snapshot, readiness
codes, and all specific data to correct the system except CKP pattern. If the CKP pattern data in
the PCM was cleared, you must do the CKP pattern learn procedure. The CKP pattern clear
command erases only CKP pattern data. This command is for repair of a misfire or the CKP
sensor.
If you are using a generic scan tool to clear commands, be aware that there is only one setting for
clearing the PCM, and it clears all commands at the same time (CKP pattern learn, idle learn,
readiness codes, freeze data, on-board snapshot, and DTCs). After you clear all commands, you
then need to do these procedures, in this order: PCM idle learn procedure.; CKP pattern learn
procedure;
DTC Clear
1. Clear the DTC with the HDS while the engine is stopped. 2. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 3. Turn
the ignition switch ON (II), and wait 30 seconds. 4. Turn the ignition switch OFF, and disconnect
the HDS from the DLC.
PCM Reset
NOTE:If the low fuel indicator is blinking, the PCM can not be reset with the HDS. To reset the
PCM, do the low fuel indicator troubleshooting .
1. Reset the PCM with the HDS while the engine is stopped. 2. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 3.
Turn the ignition switch ON (II), and wait 30 seconds. 4. Turn the ignition switch OFF, and
disconnect the HDS from the DLC. 5. Do the PCM idle learn procedure,
CKP Pattern Clear/CKP Pattern Learn Clear/Learn Procedure (with the HDS)
1. Connect the HDS to the data link connector (DLC) (A) located under the driver's side of the
dashboard.
2. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). 3. Make sure the HDS communicates with the PCM and other
vehicle systems. If it doesn't, go to the DLC circuit troubleshooting. See: Testing and
4. Select CRANK PATTERN in the ADJUSTMENT MENU with the HDS. 5. Select CRANK
PATTERN LEARNING with the HDS, and follow the screen prompts.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Relays and Modules -
Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Service and Repair > Procedures >
Page 3423
1. Start the engine. Hold the engine speed at 3,000 rpm without load (in Park or neutral) until the
radiator fan comes on. 2. Test-drive the vehicle on a level road: Decelerate (with the throttle fully
closed) from an engine speed of 2,500 rpm down to 1,000 rpm with the
transmission in 2 position.
3. Test-drive the vehicle on a level road: Decelerate (with the throttle fully closed) from an engine
speed of 5,000 rpm down to 3,000 rpm with the
transmission in 2 position.
4. Repeat step 2 and 3 several times. 5. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 6. Turn the ignition switch
ON (II), and wait 30 seconds.
1. Reset the PCM with the HDS. 2. Do the PCM idle learn procedure. 3. Turn the ignition switch
OFF. 4. Disconnect the HDS from the DLC.
NOTE: The PCM is part of the immobilizer system. If you replace the PCM, it will have a different
immobilizer code. In order for the engine to start, you must rewrite the immobilizer code with the
HDS.
- Honda interface module (HIM) and an iN workstation with HDS and CM update software
- HDS pocket tester
- GNA600 and an iN workstation with HDS and CM update software Use any one of these update
tools.
NOTE: -
Use this procedure when you need to update the PCM during a troubleshooting procedures.
- Before you update the PCM, make sure the battery in the vehicle is fully charged, and connect a
jumper battery (not a battery charger) to maintain system voltage.
- Never turn the ignition switch OFF during the update. If there is a problem with the update, leave
the ignition switch ON.
- To prevent PCM damage, do not operate anything electrical (headlights, audio system, brakes,
A/C, power windows, moonroof (if equipped), door locks, etc.) during the update.
- To ensure the latest program is installed, do PCM update whenever the PCM is substituted or
replaced.
- You cannot update PCM with a program it already has. It will only accept a new program.
- High temperature in the engine compartment might cause the PCM to become too hot to run the
update. If the engine has been running before this procedure, open the hood and cool the engine
compartment.
- If you need to diagnose the Honda interface module (HIM) because the HIM's red (# 3) light came
on or was flashed during the update, leave the ignition switch in the ON (II) position when you
disconnect the HIM from the data link connector (DLC). This will prevent PCM damage.
1. Turn the ignition switch ON (II), but do not start the engine.
2. Connect the HDS to the data link connector (DLC) (A) located under the driver's side of the
dashboard. 3. Make sure the HDS communicates with the PCM and other vehicle systems. If it
doesn't, go to the DLC circuit troubleshooting. See: Testing and
skip steps 4 and 5 and clean the throttle body after updating the PCM.
4. Select the INSPECTION MENU with the HDS. 5. Select the ETCS TEST, then select the TP
POSITION CHECK and follow the screen prompts with the HDS.
6. Exit the HDS, then select the update function and follow the screen prompts to update the PCM.
7. If the software in the PCM is the latest, disconnect the HDS/HIM from the DLC, and go back to
the procedure that you were doing. If the software
in the PCM is not the latest, follow the instructions on the screen. If prompted to choose the
PGM-FI system or the A/T system, make sure you update both.
NOTE: If the PCM update system requires you to cool the PCM, follow what is shown in the
screen. If you run into a problem (programming takes over 15 minutes, status bar goes over 100 %,
D or immobilizer light flashes, HDS tablet freezes, etc.) during the update procedure, follow these
steps to minimize the chance of damaging the PCM. -
- Reconnect the HDS to the DLC, and try the update procedure again.
8. If the TP POSITION CHECK failed in step 5, clean the throttle body, 9. Do the PCM idle learn
procedure,
- Honda interface module (HIM) and an iN workstation with HDS and CM update software
- GNA600 and an iN workstation with HDS and CM update software Use any one of these update
tools.
NOTE: Use this procedure when you need to substitute a known-good PCM during troubleshooting
procedures.
1. Make sure you have the anti-theft codes for the radio and the navigation system (if equipped).
2. Connect the HDS to the data link connector (DLC) (A) located under the driver's side of the
dashboard. 3. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). 4. Make sure the HDS communicates with the PCM
and other vehicle systems. If it doesn't, go to the DLC circuit troubleshooting. See: Testing and
5. Select the INSPECTION MENU with the HDS. 6. Select the ETCS TEST, then select the TP
POSITION CHECK and follow the screen prompts.
10. Remove the bolts (D), then remove the PCM (E). 11. Disconnect PCM connectors A, B, and C.
NOTE: PCM connectors A, B, and C have symbols (A=Square, B=Triangle, C=Circle) embossed
on them for identification.
12. Install the PCM and the battery in the reverse order of removal. 13. Turn the ignition switch ON
(II).
NOTE: DTC P0630 "VIN Not Programmed or Mismatch" may be stored because the VIN has not
been programmed into the PCM; ignore it, and continue this procedure.
14. Manually input the VIN to the PCM with the HDS. 15. Update the PCM if it does not have the
latest software. 16. Select the IMMOBI SYSTEM with the HDS. 17. Enter the immobilizer code with
the PCM replacement procedure in the HDS; it allows you to start the engine. 18. Reset the PCM
with the HDS. 19. If the TP POSITION CHECK failed in step 7, clean the throttle body. 20. Do the
PCM idle learn procedure. 21. Do the CKP pattern learn procedure. 22. Enter the anti-theft codes
for the radio and the navigation system (if equipped) and set the clock.
The idle learn procedure must be done so the ECM/PCM can learn the engine idle characteristics.
1. Make sure all electrical items (A/C, audio, lights, etc.) are off. 2. Reset the ECM/PCM with the
HDS. 3. Turn the ignition switch ON (II), and wait 2 seconds. 4. Start the engine. Hold the engine
speed at 3,000 rpm without load (in Park or neutral) until the radiator fan comes on, or until the
engine coolant
5. Let the engine idle for about 5 minutes with the throttle fully closed.
NOTE: If the radiator fan comes on, do not include its running time in the 5 minutes.
6. Verify on the HDS data list that the idle learn procedure is complete.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Relays and Modules -
Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Service and Repair > Procedures >
Page 3427
ECM/PCM Replacement
- Honda interface module (HIM) and an iN workstation with HDS and CM update software
NOTE: -
Make sure the HDS is loaded with the latest software version.
- If you are replacing the ECM/PCM after substituting a known-good ECM/PCM, reinstall the
original ECM/PCM, then do this procedure.
- During the procedure, is any READ DATA, WRITE DATA, or other data checks fail, note the
failure, then continue.
1. Make sure you have the anti-theft code for the audio system or the navigation system (if
equipped), then write down the audio presets. 2. Connect the HDS to the data link connector (DLC)
(A) located under the driver's side of the dashboard.
3. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). 4. Make sure the HDS communicates with the ECM/PCM and
other vehicle systems. If it doesn't, go to the DLC circuit troubleshooting. See:
5. USA, Canada models: Select the PGM-FI system with the HDS. 6. USA, Canada models: Select
the INSPECTION MENU with the HDS. 7. USA, Canada models: Select the ETCS TEST, then
select the TP POSITION CHECK, and follow the screen prompts.
NOTE: If the TP POSITION CHECK indicates FAILED, continue with this procedure.
8. USA, Canada models: Select the REPLACE ECM/PCM MENU, then READ DATA, and follow
the screen prompts.
NOTE: -
Doing this step copies (READS) the engine oil life data from the original ECM/PCM so you can
later download (WRITES) it into the new ECM/PCM.
9. USA, Canada models A/T: Select the A/T system with the HDS.
10. USA, Canada models A/T: Select the REPLACE TCM/PCM MENU, then READ DATA, and
follow the screen prompts.
NOTE: -
Doing this step copies (READS) the ATF life data from the original PCM so you can later download
(WRITES) it into the new PCM.
11. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 12. Remove the battery. 13. Remove the cover (A).
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Relays and Modules -
Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Service and Repair > Procedures >
Page 3428
14. Remove the bolts (D), then remove the ECM/PCM (E).
16. Install the ECM/PCM and the battery in the reverse order of removal. 17. Turn the ignition
switch ON (II). 18. USA, Canada models: Manually input the VIN to the ECM/PCM with the HDS:
NOTE: DTC P0630 "VIN Not Programmed or Mismatch" may be stored because the VIN has not
been programmed into the ECM/PCM; ignore it, and continue this procedure.
19. USA, Canada models: If the READ DATA (engine oil life) failed in step 8, go to step 22 (A/T
model) or step 25 (M/T model). Otherwise, go to
step 20.
20. USA, Canada models: Select the PGM-FI system with the HDS. 21. USA, Canada models:
Select the REPLACE ECM/PCM MENU, then WRITE DATA, and follow the screen prompts.
NOTE: If the WRITE DATA indicates FAILED, continue with this procedure.
22. USA, Canada models A/T: If the READ DATA (ATF life) failed in step 10, go to step 25.
Otherwise go to step 23. 23. USA, Canada models A/T: Select the A/T SYSTEM with the HDS. 24.
USA, Canada models A/T: Select the REPLACE TCM/PCM MENU, then WRITE DATA, and follow
the screen prompts.
NOTE: If the WRITE DATA indicates FAILED, continue with this procedure.
25. Select IMMOBI system with the HDS. 26. Enter the immobilizer code with the ECM/PCM
replacement procedure in the HDS; it allows you to start the engine. 27. USA, Canada models: If
the TP POSITION CHECK failed in step 7 clean the throttle body, then go to step 28. 28. USA,
Canada models: If the READ DATA failed in step 8 or the WRITE DATA failed in step 21, replace
the engine oil and engine oil filter, then
29. USA, Canada models: If the READ DATA failed in step 10 or the WRITE DATA failed in step
24, replace the ATF, then go to step 30. 30. Select PGM-FI system, and reset the ECM/PCM with
the HDS. 31. Update the ECM/PCM if it does not have the latest software. 32. Do the ECM/PCM
idle learn procedure.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
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Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Service and Repair > Procedures >
Page 3429
33. Do the CKP pattern learn procedure. 34. Enter the anti-theft code for the audio or the
navigation system (if equipped), then set the clock (if needed).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Relays and Modules -
Computers and Control Systems > Fuel Injector Driver Module (CNG) > Component Information > Locations
Fuel Injector Driver Module (CNG): Locations
138. Accessory Power Socket Relay, Front, Accessory Power Socket Relay, Rear (EX, Si) Or
Injector Control Module Relay (GX)
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Relays and Modules -
Computers and Control Systems > Fuel Injector Driver Module (CNG) > Component Information > Locations > Page 3437
266. Injector Control Module (GX)
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Relays and Modules -
Computers and Control Systems > Fuel Injector Driver Module (CNG) > Component Information > Locations > Page 3438
Fuel Injector Driver Module (CNG): Testing and Inspection
Use this chart to identify the type of relay, then do the test listed for it.
Normally-open type
- There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when battery positive terminal
is connected to the No. 4 terminal, and battery negative terminal is connected to the No. 3 terminal.
- There should be no continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power is
disconnected.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Relays and Modules -
Computers and Control Systems > Fuel Injector Driver Module (CNG) > Component Information > Locations > Page 3439
1. Remove the passenger's dashboard undercover, 2. Remove the right kick panel, 3. Disconnect
the injector control module connector (A).
4. Remove the injector control module (B). 5. Install the parts in the reverse order of removal.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Relays and Modules -
Computers and Control Systems > Main Relay (Computer/Fuel System) > Component Information > Locations
PGM-FI main relay 1 is energized whenever the ignition switch is ON (II) to supply battery voltage
to the PCM, and power for the injector control module relay and the ETCS control relay.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Relays and Modules -
Computers and Control Systems > Main Relay (Computer/Fuel System) > Component Information > Locations > Page 3445
Main Relay (Computer/Fuel System): Testing and Inspection
Use this chart to identify the type of relay, then do the test listed for it.
Normally-open type
- There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when battery positive terminal
is connected to the No. 4 terminal, and battery negative terminal is connected to the No. 3 terminal.
- There should be no continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power is
disconnected.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches -
Computers and Control Systems > Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor > Component Information > Locations
The throttle is electronically controlled by the electronic throttle control system. Refer to the system
diagram to see a functional layout of the system.
Idle control: When the engine is idling, the PCM controls the throttle actuator to maintain the proper
idle speed according to engine loads.
Acceleration control: When the accelerator pedal is pressed, the PCM opens the throttle valve
depending on the accelerator pedal position (APP) sensor signal.
Cruise control: The PCM controls the throttle actuator to maintain set speed when the cruise
control is operating. The throttle actuator takes the place of the cruise control actuator.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches -
Computers and Control Systems > Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor > Component Information > Description and
Operation > Electronic Throttle Control System > Page 3454
Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor: Description and Operation Accelerator Pedal Position (APP)
Sensor
As the accelerator pedal position changes, the sensor varies the signal voltage to the PCM.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches -
Computers and Control Systems > Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor > Component Information > Description and
Operation > Page 3455
NOTE:
- This procedure checks the APP sensor in its fully closed position. In any other position, the APP
sensor stores DTCs which are covered in other troubleshooting procedures.
- Check for Temporary DTCs or DTCs with the HDS before doing this procedure. If any DTCs are
indicated, troubleshoot them first, then do this procedure.
- Press the accelerator pedal several times to check its operation. If it does not operate smoothly,
check the pedal. If you find a problem, replace the accelerator pedal module.
1. Connect the HDS to the data link connector (DLC) (A) located under the driver's side of the
dashboard.
2. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). 3. Make sure the HDS communicates with the ECM/PCM. If it
doesn't, go to the DLC circuit troubleshooting. See: Testing and
4. Make sure the accelerator pedal is not pressed, then check the APP SENSOR in the DATA LIST
with the HDS.
- If it is not 0 %, update the ECM/PCM if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a
known-good ECM/PCM, then go to step 5.
5. Make sure the accelerator pedal is not pressed, then check the APP SENSOR in the DATA LIST
with the HDS.
NOTE: The APP sensor is not available separately. Do not disassemble the accelerator pedal
module.
50. Left Side Of Engine Comp. (DX, DX-G, LX, GX, EX)
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches -
Computers and Control Systems > Air Flow Meter/Sensor > Component Information > Locations > Page 3460
The mass airflow (MAF) sensor/intake air temperature (IAT) sensor contains a hot wire and a
thermistor. It is located in the intake air passage. The resistance of the hot wire and thermistor
changes due to intake air temperature and airflow. The control circuit in the MAF sensor controls
the current to keep the hot wire at a set temperature. The current is converted to voltage in the
control circuit, then output to the PCM.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches -
Computers and Control Systems > Air Flow Meter/Sensor > Component Information > Locations > Page 3463
2. Remove the bolts (B). 3. Remove the MAF sensor/IAT sensor (C). 4. Install the parts in the
reverse order of removal with a new O-ring (D).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches -
Computers and Control Systems > Barometric Pressure Sensor > Component Information > Description and Operation
Barometric Pressure Sensor: Description and Operation
The BARO sensor is inside the PCM. It converts atmospheric pressure into a voltage signal that
modifies the basic duration of the fuel injection discharge.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches -
Computers and Control Systems > Camshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Locations
The CMP sensor detects the position of the No. 1 cylinder as a reference for sequential fuel
injection to each cylinder.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches -
Computers and Control Systems > Camshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Service and Repair > CMP
Sensor Replacement
1. Remove the cowl cover and under-cowl panel. 2. Disconnect the CMP sensor 3P connector (A).
3. Remove the CMP sensor (B). 4. Install the parts in the reverse order of removal with a new
O-ring (C).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches -
Computers and Control Systems > Camshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Service and Repair > CMP
Sensor Replacement > Page 3475
Camshaft Position Sensor: Service and Repair CMP Pulse Plate Removal and Installation
CMP Pulse Plate Removal and Installation
Removal
1. Remove the air cleaner assembly. 2. Remove the air cleaner housing bracket (A), then remove
the harness holder (B) from the cylinder head.
3. Remove the rocker arm assembly. 4. Remove the camshaft thrust cover.
5. Hold the camshaft with a 27 mm open-end wrench, then loosen the bolt.
2. Hold the camshaft with a 27 mm open-end wrench, then tighten the bolt.
3. Install the camshaft thrust cover (A) with a new O-ring (B).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches -
Computers and Control Systems > Camshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Service and Repair > CMP
Sensor Replacement > Page 3477
4. Install the rocker arm assembly. 5. Install the harness holder (A) on the cylinder head, then
install the air cleaner housing bracket (B).
6. Install the air cleaner assembly.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches -
Computers and Control Systems > Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer) > Component Information >
Locations
ECT sensors 1 and 2 are temperature dependent resistors (thermistors). The resistance decreases
as the engine coolant temperature increases.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches -
Computers and Control Systems > Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer) > Component Information > Service
and Repair > ECT Sensor 1 Replacement
Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer): Service and Repair ECT Sensor 1
Replacement
1. Drain the engine coolant. 2. Disconnect the ECT sensor 1 2P connector (A).
3. Remove ECT sensor 1 (B). 4. Install the parts in the reverse order of removal with a new O-ring
(C), then refill the radiator with engine coolant.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches -
Computers and Control Systems > Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer) > Component Information > Service
and Repair > ECT Sensor 1 Replacement > Page 3484
Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer): Service and Repair ECT Sensor 2
Replacement
1. Drain the engine coolant. 2. Remove the splash shield. 3. Disconnect the ECT sensor 2 2P
connector (A).
4. Remove ECT sensor 2 (B). 5. Install the parts in the reverse order of removal with a new O-ring
(C), then refill the radiator with engine coolant. 6. Install the splash shield.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches -
Computers and Control Systems > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Locations
The CKP sensor detects crankshaft speed and is used by the PCM to determine ignition timing and
timing for fuel injection of each cylinder as well as detecting engine misfire.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches -
Computers and Control Systems > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Locations > Page 3491
Crankshaft Position Sensor: Service and Repair
1. Remove the splash shield; 2-door, 4-door. 2. Disconnect the CKP sensor 3P connector (A).
3. Remove the CKP sensor (B). 4. Install the parts in the reverse order of removal with a new
O-ring (C). 5. Do the CKP pattern clear/CKP pattern learn procedure below.
1. Connect the HDS to the data link connector (DLC) (A) located under the driver's side of the
dashboard.
2. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). 3. Make sure the HDS communicates with the ECM/PCM and
other vehicle systems. If it doesn't, go to the DLC circuit troubleshooting. See:
4. Select CRANK PATTERN in the ADJUSTMENT MENU with the HDS. 5. Select CRANK
PATTERN LEARNING with the HDS, and follow the screen prompts.
1. Start the engine. Hold the engine speed at 3,000 rpm without load (in Park or neutral) until the
radiator fan comes on. 2. Test-drive the vehicle on a level road: Decelerate (with the throttle fully
closed) from an engine speed of 2,500 rpm down to 1,000 rpm with the
3. Test-drive the vehicle on a level road: Decelerate (with the throttle fully closed) from an engine
speed of 5,000 rpm down to 3,000 rpm with the
1. Remove the ECM/PCM. 2. Remove the under-hood fuse/relay box. 3. Remove the screw (A).
5. Turn the housing over again. Using two flat-tip screwdrivers, release the tabs (A), and pry up the
fuse/relay box base (B) from the fuse/relay box
housing (C).
NOTE: Make sure the terminals (D) are not bent or damaged.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches -
Computers and Control Systems > Electric Load Sensor > Component Information > Locations > Page 3497
6. Remove the ELD (A).
1. Remove the fuel tank unit. 2. Remove the fuel level sensor (fuel sending unit) (A) from the fuel
tank unit (B).
- When connecting the wire harness, make sure the connection is secure and the connectors (C)
are firmly locked into place.
- When installing the fuel gauge sending unit, make sure the connection is secure. Be careful not to
bend or twist it excessively.
4. Install the parts in the reverse order of removal. When installing the fuel tank unit, align the
marks on the unit and the fuel tank.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches -
Computers and Control Systems > Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor > Component Information > Locations
The FTP sensor converts fuel tank absolute pressure into an electrical input to the ECM/PCM.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches -
Computers and Control Systems > Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor > Component Information > Locations > Page 3506
1. Remove the fuel joint block. 2. Remove the FTP sensor (A).
3. Apply silicone oil or polyalkyleneglycol (PAG) oil to a new O-ring (B) and carefully install it into its
proper position. 4. Install the parts in the reverse order of removal. 5. Do the leak inspection
procedure.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches -
Computers and Control Systems > Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor (CNG) > Component Information > Locations
1. Remove the fuel joint block. 2. Remove the FTT sensor (A).
3. Apply silicone oil or polyalkyleneglycol (PAG) oil to a new O-ring (B) and carefully install it into its
proper position. 4. Install the parts in the reverse order of removal. 5. Do the leak inspection
procedure.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches -
Computers and Control Systems > Intake Air Temperature Sensor > Component Information > Locations
50. Left Side Of Engine Comp. (DX, DX-G, LX, GX, EX)
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches -
Computers and Control Systems > Intake Air Temperature Sensor > Component Information > Locations > Page 3517
The mass airflow (MAF) sensor/intake air temperature (IAT) sensor contains a hot wire and a
thermistor. It is located in the intake air passage. The resistance of the hot wire and thermistor
changes due to intake air temperature and airflow. The control circuit in the MAF sensor controls
the current to keep the hot wire at a set temperature. The current is converted to voltage in the
control circuit, then output to the PCM.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches -
Computers and Control Systems > Intake Air Temperature Sensor > Component Information > Locations > Page 3520
2. Remove the bolts (B). 3. Remove the MAF sensor/IAT sensor (C). 4. Install the parts in the
reverse order of removal with a new O-ring (D).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches -
Computers and Control Systems > Knock Sensor > Component Information > Locations
Knock Sensor
The knock control system adjusts the ignition timing to minimize knock.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches -
Computers and Control Systems > Knock Sensor > Component Information > Locations > Page 3527
1. Remove the intake manifold. 2. Disconnect the knock sensor 1P connector (A).
3. Remove the knock sensor (B). 4. Install the parts in the reverse order of removal.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches -
Computers and Control Systems > Manifold Pressure/Vacuum Sensor > Component Information > Locations
The MAP sensor converts manifold absolute pressure into electrical signals to the PCM.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches -
Computers and Control Systems > Manifold Pressure/Vacuum Sensor > Component Information > Locations > Page 3534
1. Remove the cowl cover and under-cowl panel. 2. Disconnect the MAP sensor 3P connector (A).
3. Remove the MAP sensor (B). 4. Install the parts in the reverse order of removal with a new
O-ring (C).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches -
Computers and Control Systems > Oil Pressure Sensor > Component Information > Locations
1. Remove the oil pressure switch connector (A) from the engine oil pressure switch (B).
2. Check for continuity between the positive terminal (C) and the engine (ground). There should be
continuity with the engine stopped. There should
1. Disconnect the oil pressure switch connector, then remove the oil pressure switch.
2. Remove any old liquid gasket from the switch and switch mounting hole. 3. Apply very small
amount of liquid gasket to the oil pressure switch threads, then install the oil pressure switch.
NOTE: Using too much liquid gasket may cause liquid gasket to enter the oil passage or the end of
the new oil pressure switch.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches -
Computers and Control Systems > Oxygen Sensor > Component Information > Locations > Component Locations
PGM-FI System Component Location Index
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches -
Computers and Control Systems > Oxygen Sensor > Component Information > Locations > Component Locations > Page
3544
Oxygen Sensor: Description and Operation Air Fuel Ratio (A/F) Sensor
The A/F sensor operates over a wide air/fuel range. The A/F sensor is installed upstream of the
TWC, and sends signals to the PCM which varies the duration of fuel injection accordingly.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches -
Computers and Control Systems > Oxygen Sensor > Component Information > Description and Operation > Air Fuel Ratio
(A/F) Sensor > Page 3548
The secondary HO2S detects the oxygen content in the exhaust gas downstream of the three way
catalytic converter (TWC), and sends signals to the PCM which varies the duration of fuel injection
accordingly. To stabilize its output, the sensor has an internal heater. The PCM compares the
HO2S output with the A/F sensor output to determine catalyst efficiency. The secondary HO2S is
located on the TWC.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches -
Computers and Control Systems > Oxygen Sensor > Component Information > Service and Repair > A/F Sensor
Replacement
1. Disconnect the A/F sensor 4P connector (A), then remove the A/F sensor (B).
1. Disconnect the secondary HO2S 4P connector (A), then remove the secondary HO2S (B).
The PSP switch signals the PCM when the power steering load is high.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches -
Computers and Control Systems > Power Steering Pressure Switch > Component Information > Locations > Page 3558
1. Start the engine, and let it idle. 2. Align the steering wheel straight ahead. 3. Check the PSP
SWITCH in the DATA LIST with the HDS.
YES - Go to step 4.
NO - Go to step 14.
4. Turn the steering wheel to the full lock position. 5. Check the PSP SWITCH in the DATA LIST
with the HDS.
NO - Go to step 6.
6. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 7. Disconnect the PSP switch 2P connector. 8. Start the engine. 9.
Check the PSP SWITCH in the DATA LIST with the HDS.
NO - Go to step 10.
10. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 11. Jump the SCS line with the HDS. 12. Disconnect ECM/PCM
connector A (44P). 13. Check for continuity between PSP switch 2P connector terminal No. 1 and
body ground.
Is there continuity?
YES - Repair short in the wire between the ECM/PCM (A22) and the PSP switch.
NO - Update the ECM/PCM if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a known-good
ECM/PCM, then recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away with a known-good ECM/PCM,
replace the original ECM/PCM.
14. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 15. Disconnect the PSP switch 2P connector. 16. Connect PSP
switch 2P connector terminals No. 1 and No. 2 with a jumper wire, then start the engine.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches -
Computers and Control Systems > Power Steering Pressure Switch > Component Information > Locations > Page 3559
17. Check the PSP SWITCH in the DATA LIST with the HDS.
NO - Go to step 18.
18. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 19. Remove the jumper wire from the PSP switch 2P connector.
20. Jump the SCS line with the HDS. 21. Disconnect ECM/PCM connector A (44P). 22. Connect
PSP switch 2P connector terminal No. 1 to body ground with a jumper wire.
23. Check for continuity between body ground and ECM/PCM connector terminal A22.
Is there continuity?
NO - Repair open in the wire between the PSP switch and the ECM/PCM (A22).
24. Check for continuity between PSP switch 2P connector terminal No. 2 and body ground.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches -
Computers and Control Systems > Power Steering Pressure Switch > Component Information > Locations > Page 3560
Is there continuity?
YES - Update the ECM/PCM if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a known-good
ECM/PCM, then recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away with a known-good ECM/PCM,
replace the original ECM/PCM.
NO - Repair open in the wire between the PSP switch and G401.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches -
Computers and Control Systems > Power Steering Pressure Switch > Component Information > Locations > Page 3561
1. Remove the air cleaner assembly and the intake air duct. 2. Disconnect the transmission range
switch harness connector (A).
3. Check for continuity between terminals at the harness connector. There should be continuity
between the terminals in the following table for each
switch position.
4. Transmission range switch test is completed if the test results are OK.
5. Raise the vehicle on a lift, or apply the parking brake, block the rear wheels, and raise the front
of the vehicle. Make sure it is securely supported. 6. Remove the transmission range switch cover.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches -
Computers and Control Systems > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Locations > Page
3574
7. Disconnect the transmission range switch connector.
8. Check for continuity between terminals at the switch connector. There should be continuity
between the terminals in the following table for each
switch position.
9. If the transmission range switch test is OK, replace the faulty transmission range switch harness.
10. Remove the transmission range switch, and check the end of the selector control shaft (A).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches -
Computers and Control Systems > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Locations > Page
3575
11. If the measurement at the end of the selector control shaft end is within the standard, replace
the transmission range switch. If the measurement is
out of the standard, repair the selector control shaft end, and recheck the transmission range
switch continuity.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches -
Computers and Control Systems > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Locations > Page
3576
Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: Service and Repair
Transmission Range Switch Replacement
1. Raise the vehicle on a lift, or apply the parking brake, block the rear wheels, and raise the front
of the vehicle. Make sure it is securely supported. 2. Shift the shift lever to N. 3. Remove the
transmission range switch cover.
5. Make sure the selector control shaft is in the N position. If necessary, move the shift lever to the
N position from the P position.
6. Align the cutouts (A) on the rotary-frame with the neutral positioning cutouts (B) on the
transmission range switch (C), then put a 2.0 mm (0.08
in.) feeler gauge blade (D) in the cutouts to hold the switch in the N position.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches -
Computers and Control Systems > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Locations > Page
3577
7. Install the transmission range switch (A) gently on the selector control shaft (B) while holding it in
the N position with the 2.0 mm (0.08 in.) blade
(C).
8. Tighten the bolts on the transmission range switch while you continue holding the N position. Do
not move the transmission range switch when
9. Check the connectors for rust, dirt, or oil, clean or repair if necessary, then connect the
connector securely.
10. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). Move the shift lever through all positions, and check the
transmission range switch synchronization with the
11. Check that the engine will start in P and N, and will not start in any other shift lever position. 12.
Check that the back-up lights come on when the shift lever is in R. 13. Allow the front wheels to
rotate freely, then start the engine, and check the shift lever operation. 14. Install the transmission
range switch cover.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches -
Computers and Control Systems > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Locations > Page
3578
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Throttle Position Sensor >
Component Information > Locations
1. Remove the air cleaner assembly and the intake air duct. 2. Disconnect the transmission range
switch harness connector (A).
3. Check for continuity between terminals at the harness connector. There should be continuity
between the terminals in the following table for each
switch position.
4. Transmission range switch test is completed if the test results are OK.
5. Raise the vehicle on a lift, or apply the parking brake, block the rear wheels, and raise the front
of the vehicle. Make sure it is securely supported. 6. Remove the transmission range switch cover.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Transmission Position
Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Locations > Page 3591
7. Disconnect the transmission range switch connector.
8. Check for continuity between terminals at the switch connector. There should be continuity
between the terminals in the following table for each
switch position.
9. If the transmission range switch test is OK, replace the faulty transmission range switch harness.
10. Remove the transmission range switch, and check the end of the selector control shaft (A).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Transmission Position
Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Locations > Page 3592
11. If the measurement at the end of the selector control shaft end is within the standard, replace
the transmission range switch. If the measurement is
out of the standard, repair the selector control shaft end, and recheck the transmission range
switch continuity.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Transmission Position
Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Locations > Page 3593
Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: Service and Repair
1. Raise the vehicle on a lift, or apply the parking brake, block the rear wheels, and raise the front
of the vehicle. Make sure it is securely supported. 2. Shift the shift lever to N. 3. Remove the
transmission range switch cover.
5. Make sure the selector control shaft is in the N position. If necessary, move the shift lever to the
N position from the P position.
6. Align the cutouts (A) on the rotary-frame with the neutral positioning cutouts (B) on the
transmission range switch (C), then put a 2.0 mm (0.08
in.) feeler gauge blade (D) in the cutouts to hold the switch in the N position.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Transmission Position
Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Locations > Page 3594
7. Install the transmission range switch (A) gently on the selector control shaft (B) while holding it in
the N position with the 2.0 mm (0.08 in.) blade
(C).
8. Tighten the bolts on the transmission range switch while you continue holding the N position. Do
not move the transmission range switch when
9. Check the connectors for rust, dirt, or oil, clean or repair if necessary, then connect the
connector securely.
10. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). Move the shift lever through all positions, and check the
transmission range switch synchronization with the
11. Check that the engine will start in P and N, and will not start in any other shift lever position. 12.
Check that the back-up lights come on when the shift lever is in R. 13. Allow the front wheels to
rotate freely, then start the engine, and check the shift lever operation. 14. Install the transmission
range switch cover.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Transmission Position
Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Locations > Page 3595
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Variable Valve Timing Actuator
> Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions
Variable Valve Timing Actuator: Diagram Information and Instructions
Circuit Schematics
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Variable Valve Timing Actuator
> Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3600
Circuit Schematics
Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show
current flow, from power at the top of the diagram, to ground at the bottom.
Shared Circuits
Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that
connects one circuit to another, for example, is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it
pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or
component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring, check the operation of a
component it serves. If that component works, you know the shared wiring is OK.
Connectors
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Variable Valve Timing Actuator
> Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3601
All in-line and junction connectors are numbered (C725, C416, etc.). Component connectors are
not numbered but are identified either by the name of the component if the component only has
one connector, or by a capital letter (A, B, C, etc.) if the component has more than one connector.
Below most connector numbers and component names are PHOTO and VIEW numbers. The
PHOTO number refers to a photo at Vehicle Level Locations that shows the connector's location on
the car. The VIEW number refers to an connector view at the Vehicle Level Connector Views that
shows the connector terminals, wire colors, connector cavity numbers, and other details.
The connector cavity numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector as seen
from either of the viewpoints. Except for the DLC (data link connector), disregard any numbers
molded into the connector housing.
Wires
Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the
stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number "2" next to the male
and female wire terminals at C554, for example, means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector
C554.
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the vehicle. Refer to the Power Distribution Diagram Set to get a more detailed
understanding of how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on. Individual circuit
schematics begin with a fuse. So if Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another
circuit share a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good
and power is available to the inoperative circuit.
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share the same
ground point.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Variable Valve Timing Actuator
> Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3603
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Variable Valve Timing Actuator
> Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3604
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Variable Valve Timing Actuator
> Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3605
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Variable Valve Timing Actuator
> Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3606
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Variable Valve Timing Actuator
> Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3607
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Variable Valve Timing Actuator
> Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3608
How to Identify Connector Terminals
Connector terminals are numbered according to the cavities they are in. The cavities are numbered
starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side or looking at the
female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the
same. All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not
the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the
connector face.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Variable Valve Timing Actuator
> Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3609
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown above is #6.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Variable Valve Timing Actuator
> Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3610
The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice
connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for
all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement
terminal availability.
On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged,
replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If
any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it.
Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the
wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the
terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to
make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a
factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS.
Use the tools from Pin Tool Set. First, check the connector that you are about to repair.
- If it has a secondary terminal lock, go to Connectors With a Secondary Lock. A secondary lock,
found on most connectors on some models, is an additional locking device on the connector
housing as a backup for the primary lock on the terminal.
- If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock.
All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the
secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the
connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities.
EXAMPLE A:
EXAMPLE B:
EXAMPLE C:
EXAMPLE D:
2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW
TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE E:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Variable Valve Timing Actuator
> Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3614
1. Remove the secondary locks.
2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW
TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE F:
3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of
connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary
in size and shape.
EXAMPLE A:
EXAMPLE B:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Variable Valve Timing Actuator
> Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3616
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE C:
EXAMPLE D:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Variable Valve Timing Actuator
> Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3617
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE E:
EXAMPLE F:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Variable Valve Timing Actuator
> Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3618
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE G:
1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct
replacement terminal based on the wire size range
NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part
number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available
through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures.
2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Variable Valve Timing Actuator
> Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3619
3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the
wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from
the kit.)
NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did,
cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again.
4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the
anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown
in step 3.
6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact.
- If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool
over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the
stops make contact.
- If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully
squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Variable Valve Timing Actuator
> Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3620
8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the following NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and
start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the
way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure
10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector.
Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too
short or when access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair.
On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged,
replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If
any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it.
1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from
Pin Tool Set.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Variable Valve Timing Actuator
> Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3621
2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal,
then strip about half of the insulation off that piece.
This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal.
NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will
not nick or cut off any strands of wires.
3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and
same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit
onto the stripped end of the original wire.
5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the
pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more
than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at
the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the
harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make
each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail.
7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends
of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue
NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the
stripper.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Variable Valve Timing Actuator
> Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3622
8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the
flare begins), and close the crimper handles far
enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click,
squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open.
9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the
wire all the way into the splice connector, and
squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until
the ratchet clicks again.
10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After
crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the
connector.
12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire(s), and shield them with
nonflammable material.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Variable Valve Timing Actuator
> Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3623
13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the
gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat
evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete
when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube.
NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun.
Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the
wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size)
splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select
the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in
quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures.
Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the
Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching
connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body.
1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Variable Valve Timing Actuator
> Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3624
2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool.
NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal
because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit.
3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal
with a replacement terminal from the appropriate
Five-Step Troubleshooting
Five-Step Troubleshooting
Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint.
Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
problem area.
Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by
tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground (certain
circuits contain a "How the Circuit Works" Diagram set). Also, trace circuits that share wiring with
the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on,
are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step
1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used
only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely
cause.
Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more
possible causes.
Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple
procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to
make tests at points that are easily accessible.
Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe
procedures.
Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire
problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure
no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur.
Test Equipment
Test Equipment
CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
1O-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up
of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to
various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is
voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital
volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is
between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM).
In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low
resistance means good continuity.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Variable Valve Timing Actuator
> Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3625
Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a
reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is
affecting the measurement.
To order any test equipment shown, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool
numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin.
Jumper Wire
Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder
connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire
across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse.
To order any test equipment shown, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool
numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin.
Troubleshooting Precautions
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION: -
Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
- Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles.
2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part
Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place.
CAUTION: -
Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Variable Valve Timing Actuator
> Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3626
- Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-mega
ohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that
contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
Troubleshooting Tests
Troubleshooting Tests
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt
ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest
"OHMS" range.
2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you
want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Variable Valve Timing Actuator
> Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3627
4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or
no reading (zero), means good continuity.
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem. Circuits must be operating when checking
voltage drop.
1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts
range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage
is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM
voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Variable Valve Timing Actuator
> Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3628
Variable Valve Timing Actuator: Electrical Diagrams
Diagram 31-0
Diagrams: Other diagrams referred to by number (See Diagram ##-#, etc.) within these diagrams
can be found at Diagrams by Number. See: Diagrams/Electrical Diagrams/Diagrams By Number
Locations: Location photographs (references to PHOTOS) referred to within these diagrams can be
found at Locations by Photo Number. See: Locations/Component Locations/Locations By Photo
Number
Connector Views: Connector terminal views (references to VIEWS) referred to within these
diagrams can be found at Connector Views by View
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Variable Valve Timing Actuator
> Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3629
Number. See: Diagrams/Connector Views/Connector Views By View Number
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Variable Valve Timing Actuator
> Component Information > Diagrams > Page 3630
VTEC System
- This mechanism improves fuel efficiency and reduces exhaust emissions at all levels of engine
speed, vehicle speed, and engine load.
- The VTEC mechanism changes the valve lift and timing by using more than one cam profile.
- The VTEC system changes the cam profile (angle) at cruising speeds. (Cam angle is changed to
obtain the desired EGR effect and reduce pumping loss).
Operation
- Oil pressure enters secondary rocker arm B from the oil passage in the intake rocker shaft. This
forces the VTEC switching piston into secondary rocker arm A against the return spring and
disengages secondary arm A from secondary arm B to stop valve actuation.
At cruise
The rocker arm oil control valve switches oil pressure to the oil passage in the intake rocker arm
shaft. Oil pressure then enters secondary rocker arm A, and it moves the VTEC switching piston in
the rocker arm.
This causes the VTEC switching piston to slide into secondary rocker arm B, locking secondary
rocker arms A and B together.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Variable Valve Timing Actuator
> Component Information > Diagrams > Page 3631
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Variable Valve Timing Solenoid
> Component Information > Locations
Variable Valve Timing Solenoid: Locations
1. Remove the cowl cover and under-cowl panel. 2. Disconnect the rocker arm oil control valve
connector (A) and the EOP sensor connector (B).
3. Remove the rocker arm oil control valve (C). 4. Install the parts in the reverse order of removal
with a new rocker arm oil control valve filter (D).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Voltage Signal > Component
Information > Testing and Inspection
1. Start the engine, and let it idle. 2. Monitor the ALTERNATOR in the DATA LIST with the HDS. 3.
Check if the indicated percentage varies when the headlight switch is turned on.
NO - Go to step 4.
4. Turn the headlight switch and ignition switch OFF. 5. Jump the SCS line with the HDS. 6.
Disconnect the alternator 4P connector. 7. Disconnect ECM/PCM connector B (44P). 8. Check for
continuity between body ground and ECM/PCM connector terminal B43.
Is there continuity?
YES - Repair short in the wire between the ECM/PCM (B43) and the alternator.
NO - Update the ECM/PCM if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a known-good
ECM/PCM, then recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away with a known-good ECM/PCM,
replace the original ECM/PCM.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Emission Control Systems > Catalytic Converter > Component
Information > Locations
The TWC converts hydrocarbons (HC), carbon monoxide (CO), and oxides of nitrogen (NOx) in the
exhaust gas to carbon dioxide (CO2), nitrogen (N2), and water vapor.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Emission Control Systems > Catalytic Converter > Component
Information > Locations > Page 3646
1. Remove the A/F sensor (sensor 1), 2. Remove the secondary HO2S (sensor 2), 3. Remove the
cover(A).
4. Remove the TWC (B). 5. Remove the converter cover (C). 6. Install the parts in the reverse
order of removal with a new gaskets (D).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Emission Control Systems > Evaporative Emissions System >
Canister Purge Control Valve > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Canister
Purge Control Valve: > 08-013 > May > 09 > Emissions - MIL ON/DTC P0456 Stored In Memory
Canister Purge Control Valve: Customer Interest Emissions - MIL ON/DTC P0456 Stored In
Memory
08-013
(Supersedes 08-013, dated March 14, 2008, to revise the information marked by the black bars
and asterisks)
*REVISION SUMMARY
Under VEHICLES AFFECTED, the VIN ranges for 2008 models have changed.*
SYMPTOM
The MIL is on with DTC P0456 (EVAP system very small leak detected).
PROBABLE CAUSE
There is an internal leak in the EVAP canister purge valve, allowing a small amount of purge to
occur when the ECM/PCM does not request any purge.
VEHICLES AFFECTED
CORRECTIVE ACTION
NOTICE
Make sure you torque the bolts in the proper order and to the proper torque, or the new purge valve
may leak (see REPAIR PROCEDURE).
PARTS INFORMATION
In warranty:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Emission Control Systems > Evaporative Emissions System >
Canister Purge Control Valve > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Canister
Purge Control Valve: > 08-013 > May > 09 > Emissions - MIL ON/DTC P0456 Stored In Memory > Page 3656
Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request
consideration, and get a decision, before starting work.
DIAGNOSIS
NOTE:
Be careful not to break the inlet port when disconnecting the hose.
3. Apply 5 in. Hg of vacuum to the purge valve, then watch the gauge.
Does the EVAP canister purge valve hold the vacuum for 10 seconds?
No - Go to REPAIR PROCEDURE.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Emission Control Systems > Evaporative Emissions System >
Canister Purge Control Valve > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Canister
Purge Control Valve: > 08-013 > May > 09 > Emissions - MIL ON/DTC P0456 Stored In Memory > Page 3657
REPAIR PROCEDURE
^ Online, enter keyword COWL, and select Cowl Cover Replacement from the list.
3. Remove the two bolts securing the EVAP canister purge valve, then remove the valve.
4. Install the new EVAP canister purge valve onto the throttle body with a new 0-ring.
NOTE:
Make sure the valve is completely pushed into the throttle body port (not tilted).
6. Torque the bolts in the order shown above to 26 lb-in (pound-inches, not pound-feet).
7. Reconnect the 2P connector and hose, then reinstall the cowl cover.
Disclaimer
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Emission Control Systems > Evaporative Emissions System >
Canister Purge Control Valve > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for
Canister Purge Control Valve: > 08-013 > May > 09 > Emissions - MIL ON/DTC P0456 Stored In Memory
Canister Purge Control Valve: All Technical Service Bulletins Emissions - MIL ON/DTC P0456
Stored In Memory
08-013
(Supersedes 08-013, dated March 14, 2008, to revise the information marked by the black bars
and asterisks)
*REVISION SUMMARY
Under VEHICLES AFFECTED, the VIN ranges for 2008 models have changed.*
SYMPTOM
The MIL is on with DTC P0456 (EVAP system very small leak detected).
PROBABLE CAUSE
There is an internal leak in the EVAP canister purge valve, allowing a small amount of purge to
occur when the ECM/PCM does not request any purge.
VEHICLES AFFECTED
CORRECTIVE ACTION
NOTICE
Make sure you torque the bolts in the proper order and to the proper torque, or the new purge valve
may leak (see REPAIR PROCEDURE).
PARTS INFORMATION
In warranty:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Emission Control Systems > Evaporative Emissions System >
Canister Purge Control Valve > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for
Canister Purge Control Valve: > 08-013 > May > 09 > Emissions - MIL ON/DTC P0456 Stored In Memory > Page 3663
Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request
consideration, and get a decision, before starting work.
DIAGNOSIS
NOTE:
Be careful not to break the inlet port when disconnecting the hose.
3. Apply 5 in. Hg of vacuum to the purge valve, then watch the gauge.
Does the EVAP canister purge valve hold the vacuum for 10 seconds?
No - Go to REPAIR PROCEDURE.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Emission Control Systems > Evaporative Emissions System >
Canister Purge Control Valve > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for
Canister Purge Control Valve: > 08-013 > May > 09 > Emissions - MIL ON/DTC P0456 Stored In Memory > Page 3664
REPAIR PROCEDURE
^ Online, enter keyword COWL, and select Cowl Cover Replacement from the list.
3. Remove the two bolts securing the EVAP canister purge valve, then remove the valve.
4. Install the new EVAP canister purge valve onto the throttle body with a new 0-ring.
NOTE:
Make sure the valve is completely pushed into the throttle body port (not tilted).
6. Torque the bolts in the order shown above to 26 lb-in (pound-inches, not pound-feet).
7. Reconnect the 2P connector and hose, then reinstall the cowl cover.
Disclaimer
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Emission Control Systems > Evaporative Emissions System >
Canister Purge Control Valve > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 3665
When the engine coolant temperature is below 140 °F (60 °C), the ECM/PCM turns off the EVAP
canister purge valve cutting vacuum to the EVAP canister.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Emission Control Systems > Evaporative Emissions System >
Canister Purge Control Valve > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 3666
1. Remove the cowl cover and under-cowl panel. 2. Disconnect the hose (A) and the EVAP
canister purge valve 2P connector (B).
3. Remove the EVAP canister purge valve (C). 4. Install the parts in the reverse order of removal
with a new O-ring (D).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Emission Control Systems > Evaporative Emissions System >
Evaporative Emission Control Canister > Canister Vent Valve > Component Information > Description and Operation
The EVAP canister vent shut valve is on the EVAP canister. The EVAP canister vent shut valve
controls the venting of the EVAP canister.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Emission Control Systems > Evaporative Emissions System >
Evaporative Emission Control Canister > Canister Vent Valve > Component Information > Description and Operation >
Page 3671
3. Remove the EVAP canister vent shut valve (B). 4. Install the parts in the reverse order of
removal with new O-rings (C) and a new cap.
Oil Separator: Customer Interest Engine - Oil Leak From The Oil Separator
09-022
Applies To: 2008 Civic 2-Door - ALL Except Si 2008 Civic 4-Door - ALL Except Hybrid and Si
(Supersedes 09-022, dated March 26, 2009, to revise the information marked by the black bars
and asterisks)
*REVISION SUMMARY
Under PARTS INFORMATION, the part number for the Set Ring (Axle Clip) (M/T) was changed.*
SYMPTOM
PROBABLE CAUSE
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Remove the oil/air separator, clean its sealing surfaces, then reseal and reinstall it.
REQUIRED MATERIALS
PARTS INFORMATION
WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION
Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request
consideration, and get a decision, before starting work.
DIAGNOSIS
Clean the leakage area with a shop towel. Start the engine, and look for a new leak in the area.
^ If you see no signs of leakage, what looked like a leak may have been excess residue from a
previous repair on another part. Continue with normal troubleshooting.
REPAIR PROCEDURE
NOTE:
^ Online, enter keyword DRIVESHAFT, and select Driveshaft Removal from the list.
3. Remove the oil/air separator from the side of the engine block.
4. Carefully clean the oil/air separator and the block surfaces of old sealant, and allow the surfaces
to dry.
5. Apply Hondabond HT to the oil/air separator following the time limits in the directions on the
tube.
NOTE:
Wait 3 hours before starting the engine to allow time for the Hondabond HI to cure.
Oil Separator: All Technical Service Bulletins Engine - Oil Leak From The Oil Separator
09-022
Applies To: 2008 Civic 2-Door - ALL Except Si 2008 Civic 4-Door - ALL Except Hybrid and Si
(Supersedes 09-022, dated March 26, 2009, to revise the information marked by the black bars
and asterisks)
*REVISION SUMMARY
Under PARTS INFORMATION, the part number for the Set Ring (Axle Clip) (M/T) was changed.*
SYMPTOM
PROBABLE CAUSE
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Remove the oil/air separator, clean its sealing surfaces, then reseal and reinstall it.
REQUIRED MATERIALS
PARTS INFORMATION
WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION
Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request
consideration, and get a decision, before starting work.
DIAGNOSIS
Clean the leakage area with a shop towel. Start the engine, and look for a new leak in the area.
^ If you see no signs of leakage, what looked like a leak may have been excess residue from a
previous repair on another part. Continue with normal troubleshooting.
REPAIR PROCEDURE
NOTE:
^ Online, enter keyword DRIVESHAFT, and select Driveshaft Removal from the list.
3. Remove the oil/air separator from the side of the engine block.
4. Carefully clean the oil/air separator and the block surfaces of old sealant, and allow the surfaces
to dry.
5. Apply Hondabond HT to the oil/air separator following the time limits in the directions on the
tube.
NOTE:
Wait 3 hours before starting the engine to allow time for the Hondabond HI to cure.
1. Remove all of the old liquid gasket from the oil/air separator mating surfaces, bolts, and bolt
holes. 2. Clean and dry the oil/air separator mating surfaces. 3. Apply liquid gasket, P/N
08717-0004, 08718-0001, 08718-0003, or 08718-0009, evenly to the engine block mating surface
of the oil/air separator.
NOTE: ^
If you apply liquid gasket P/N 08718-0012, the component must be installed within 4 minutes.
^ If too much time has passed after applying the liquid gasket, remove the old liquid gasket and
residue, then reapply new liquid gasket.
NOTE: ^
^ Do not run the engine within 3 hours after installing the oil/air separator.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Emission Control Systems > Positive Crankcase Ventilation >
Positive Crankcase Ventilation Valve > Component Information > Testing and Inspection
Positive Crankcase Ventilation Valve: Testing and Inspection
1. Check the PCV valve (A), hoses (B), and connections for leaks or restrictions.
2. At idle, make sure there is a clicking sound from the PCV valve when the hose between the PCV
valve and intake manifold is lightly pinched (A)
with your fingers or pliers. If there is no clicking sound, check the PCV valve washer for cracks or
damage. If the washer is OK, replace the PCV valve and recheck.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Emission Control Systems > Positive Crankcase Ventilation >
Positive Crankcase Ventilation Valve > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Page 3694
2. Disconnect the PCV hose (B). 3. Remove the PCV valve (C). 4. Install the parts in the reverse
order of removal with a new washer (D).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pressure > System
Information > Specifications
Fuel Pressure: Specifications
*at idle, as measured at the Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor, using the HDS or a scantool.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pressure > System
Information > Specifications > Page 3699
Fuel Pressure: Service Precautions
WARNING: Adhere to the following procedures any time the fuel system is being worked on in
order to reduce the risk of fire and personal injury:
- Keep a dry chemical (Class B) fire extinguisher near the work area.
- Work in a well-ventilated area. Do not smoke, and keep sparks and open flames away.
- Use caution when working near the catalytic converter to prevent the possibility of burns or fire.
(The temperatures within the converter can exceed 537 °C (1000 °F).
- Relieve the fuel system pressure prior to disconnecting fuel system components.
- Disconnect the negative battery cable except for tests where battery voltage is required.
- After making any fuel system repairs ALWAYS inspect for fuel leaks.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pressure > System
Information > Specifications > Page 3700
Fuel Pressure: Testing and Inspection
Fuel pressure can only be checked using the HDS and viewing the FUEL RAIL PRESSURE
SENSOR readings.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pressure Release > System
Information > Service and Repair
Fuel Pressure Release: Service and Repair
WARNING: Compressed natural gas is flammable and highly explosive. You could be killed or
seriously injured if leaking natural gas is ignited. Stop the engine, and keep heat, sparks and
flames away.
This procedure should be done outside in a well-ventilated area or in a properly equipped CNG
shop.
This procedure will allow you to safely work on any part of the fuel system downstream of the
manual shut-off valve, such as fuel pressure regulator P1 or the fuel injectors.
1. Lift the vehicle, and support it with jackstands. 2. Close the manual shut-off valve (A).
3. Start the engine, and let it idle. After a few minutes, the engine will stall. 4. Turn the ignition
switch OFF.
This procedure will allow you to safely work on any part of the fuel system downstream of the fuel
tank such as the fuel joint block or the manual shut-off valve.
1. Remove the rear seat. 2. Disconnect the fuel subharness 6P connector (A) (this prevents the
tank from supplying fuel to the system).
3. Start the engine, and let it idle. After a few minutes, the engine will stall. 4. Turn the ignition
switch OFF.
This procedure will allow you to safely work on any part of the fuel system between the fuel joint
block and fuel receptacle.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pressure Release > System
Information > Service and Repair > Page 3704
1. Relieve the fuel pressure between the fuel tank and the manual shut-off valve (see the previous
procedure). 2. Remove the under floor cover (A).
3. Loosen the sealing bolt (A) on the fuel joint block slowly.
4. Turn the fuel stem assembly (B) 1/2-1 turn counterclockwise. 5. Replace the fuel stem assembly
and sealing bolt O-ring (C).
NOTE: This procedure degrades the integrity of the fuel tank. Do it only if you are replacing the fuel
tank.
1. Lift the vehicle and support it with jackstands. 2. Close the manual shut-off valve (A).
3. Start the engine, and let it idle. After a few minutes, the engine will stall.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pressure Release > System
Information > Service and Repair > Page 3705
4. Turn the ignition switch OFF, and disconnect the negative cable from the battery. 5. Connect a
ground wire (A) (available from AH special tools department) to the fuel line to eliminate any static
electricity.
6. Disconnect the fuel supply pipe (B) from fuel pressure regulator P1 (C). Be careful not to lose the
O-rings.
NOTE: Always use two wrenches when removing or installing the fuel pipe nut.
7. Connect the vent tube to the fuel supply pipe. 8. Secure the other end of the vent tube to the
highest possible location. 9. Remove the fuel pipe duct, and slowly remove the manual lock-down
valve (A). Install the manual override vent tool (B) (available from AH
10. Slowly turn the tool's Allen bolt clockwise until it stops. This opens the line between the fuel
tank and the manual shut-off valve. 11. Open the manual shut-off valve so fuel can vent from the
fuel tank. The fuel tank is empty when the hissing sound goes away. 12. Remove the manual
override vent tool.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Idle Speed > System Information
> Specifications
Idle Speed: Specifications
When the engine is cold, the A/C compressor is on, the transmission is in gear, the brake pedal is
pressed, the power steering load is high, or the alternator is charging, the PCM sends signals to
the throttle actuator to maintain the correct idle speed.
The brake pedal position switch signals the PCM when the brake pedal is pressed.
The PSP switch signals the PCM when the power steering load is high.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Idle Speed > System Information
> Specifications > Page 3710
NOTE:
The malfunction indicator lamp (MIL) has not been reported on, and there are no DTCs.
- Ignition timing
- Sparkplugs
- Air cleaner
- PCV system
- Apply the parking brake, and make sure the headlights are off.
1. Connect the HDS to the data link connector (DLC) (A) located under the driver's side of the
dashboard.
2. Make sure the HDS communicates with the PCM. If it doesn't go to the DLC circuit
troubleshooting. See: Computers and Control
3. Start the engine. Hold the engine speed at 3,000 rpm without load (in Park or neutral) until the
radiator fan comes on, then let it idle. 4. Check the idle speed without load conditions: headlights,
blower fan, radiator fan, and air conditioner off.
beam).
NOTE: If the idle speed is not within specification, do the PCM idle learn procedure, If the idle
speed is still not within specification, go to symptom troubleshooting.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor
> Component Information > Locations
The throttle is electronically controlled by the electronic throttle control system. Refer to the system
diagram to see a functional layout of the system.
Idle control: When the engine is idling, the PCM controls the throttle actuator to maintain the proper
idle speed according to engine loads.
Acceleration control: When the accelerator pedal is pressed, the PCM opens the throttle valve
depending on the accelerator pedal position (APP) sensor signal.
Cruise control: The PCM controls the throttle actuator to maintain set speed when the cruise
control is operating. The throttle actuator takes the place of the cruise control actuator.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor
> Component Information > Description and Operation > Electronic Throttle Control System > Page 3718
Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor: Description and Operation Accelerator Pedal Position (APP)
Sensor
As the accelerator pedal position changes, the sensor varies the signal voltage to the PCM.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor
> Component Information > Description and Operation > Page 3719
NOTE:
- This procedure checks the APP sensor in its fully closed position. In any other position, the APP
sensor stores DTCs which are covered in other troubleshooting procedures.
- Check for Temporary DTCs or DTCs with the HDS before doing this procedure. If any DTCs are
indicated, troubleshoot them first, then do this procedure.
- Press the accelerator pedal several times to check its operation. If it does not operate smoothly,
check the pedal. If you find a problem, replace the accelerator pedal module.
1. Connect the HDS to the data link connector (DLC) (A) located under the driver's side of the
dashboard.
2. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). 3. Make sure the HDS communicates with the ECM/PCM. If it
doesn't, go to the DLC circuit troubleshooting. See: Computers and Control
4. Make sure the accelerator pedal is not pressed, then check the APP SENSOR in the DATA LIST
with the HDS.
- If it is not 0 %, update the ECM/PCM if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a
known-good ECM/PCM, then go to step 5.
5. Make sure the accelerator pedal is not pressed, then check the APP SENSOR in the DATA LIST
with the HDS.
NOTE: The APP sensor is not available separately. Do not disassemble the accelerator pedal
module.
2. Remove the air cleaner element (B) from the air cleaner housing (C). 3. Check the air cleaner
element for damage or clogging. If it is damaged or clogged, replace it.
NOTE: Do not use compressed air to clean the air cleaner element.
4. Install the parts in the reverse order of removal. Clean and remove any debris from inside the air
cleaner. 5. If the maintenance minder required air cleaner element replacement, reset the
maintenance minder.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Air Cleaner Housing > Air Filter
Element > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Page 3725
2. Remove the air cleaner element (B) from the air cleaner housing (C). 3. Check the air cleaner
element for damage or clogging. If it is damaged or clogged, replace it.
NOTE: Do not use compressed air to clean the air cleaner element.
4. Install the parts in the reverse order of removal. Clean and remove any debris from inside the air
cleaner. 5. If the maintenance minder required air cleaner element replacement, reset the
maintenance minder.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Air Flow Meter/Sensor >
Component Information > Locations
50. Left Side Of Engine Comp. (DX, DX-G, LX, GX, EX)
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Air Flow Meter/Sensor >
Component Information > Locations > Page 3729
The mass airflow (MAF) sensor/intake air temperature (IAT) sensor contains a hot wire and a
thermistor. It is located in the intake air passage. The resistance of the hot wire and thermistor
changes due to intake air temperature and airflow. The control circuit in the MAF sensor controls
the current to keep the hot wire at a set temperature. The current is converted to voltage in the
control circuit, then output to the PCM.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Air Flow Meter/Sensor >
Component Information > Locations > Page 3732
2. Remove the bolts (B). 3. Remove the MAF sensor/IAT sensor (C). 4. Install the parts in the
reverse order of removal with a new O-ring (D).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Delivery Valve Assembly,
LPG / CNG > Component Information > Service and Repair
Fuel Delivery Valve Assembly: Service and Repair
WARNING: Compressed natural gas is flammable and highly explosive. You could be killed or
seriously injured if leaking natural gas is ignited. Stop the engine, and keep heat, sparks, and
flames away.
1. Remove the fuel tank. 2. Remove the fuel pipe duct (A), then remove the fuel pipes (B) from the
fuel tank, and disconnect the connector (C).
NOTE: Always use two wrenches when removing or installing fuel pipe nuts.
3. Remove the fuel joint duct (A), and the fuel pipes (B).
NOTE: Always use two wrenches when removing or installing the fuel pipe nuts.
4. Disconnect the FTP sensor connector (C) and the FTT sensor connector (D). 5. Remove the
connectors (A).
NOTE: Always use two wrenches when removing or installing fuel pipe nuts.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Delivery Valve Assembly,
LPG / CNG > Component Information > Service and Repair > Page 3736
6. Remove the FTT sensor (B), the FTP sensor (C), and the bolts (D). 7. Apply silicone oil or
polyalkyleneglycol (PAG) oil to the new O-rings (E), and carefully install them into their proper
positions. 8. Install the parts in the reverse order of removal. 9. Do the leak inspection procedure.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Filler Cap Warning Indicator
> Component Information > Description and Operation
The ECM/PCM detects a loose or missing fuel fill cap as an evaporative system leak and alerts the
driver by showing a warning message in the gauge display.
The first time a leak is detected a "CHECK FUEL CAP" message appears in the gauge display (A).
To scroll to another message, press the select/reset button. The "CHECK FUEL CAP" message
will appear each time you restart the engine until the system turns the message off. Turn the
engine off then replace or tighten the fuel fill cap until it clicks at least once.
Procedure
1. Tighten the fuel fill cap until it clicks. 2. Clear the Temporary DTC with the HDS. 3. Verify there is
no leak by doing the EVAP FUNCTION TEST in the INSPECTION MENU with the HDS.
Procedure
1. Tighten the fuel fill cap until it clicks. 2. The message should go off after several days of normal
driving.
1. Tighten the fuel fill cap until it clicks. 2. Start the engine, then turn the ignition switch OFF. 3.
Repeat step 2 two more times.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Filter > Fuel Pressure
Release > System Information > Service and Repair
Fuel Pressure Release: Service and Repair
WARNING: Compressed natural gas is flammable and highly explosive. You could be killed or
seriously injured if leaking natural gas is ignited. Stop the engine, and keep heat, sparks and
flames away.
This procedure should be done outside in a well-ventilated area or in a properly equipped CNG
shop.
This procedure will allow you to safely work on any part of the fuel system downstream of the
manual shut-off valve, such as fuel pressure regulator P1 or the fuel injectors.
1. Lift the vehicle, and support it with jackstands. 2. Close the manual shut-off valve (A).
3. Start the engine, and let it idle. After a few minutes, the engine will stall. 4. Turn the ignition
switch OFF.
This procedure will allow you to safely work on any part of the fuel system downstream of the fuel
tank such as the fuel joint block or the manual shut-off valve.
1. Remove the rear seat. 2. Disconnect the fuel subharness 6P connector (A) (this prevents the
tank from supplying fuel to the system).
3. Start the engine, and let it idle. After a few minutes, the engine will stall. 4. Turn the ignition
switch OFF.
This procedure will allow you to safely work on any part of the fuel system between the fuel joint
block and fuel receptacle.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Filter > Fuel Pressure
Release > System Information > Service and Repair > Page 3744
1. Relieve the fuel pressure between the fuel tank and the manual shut-off valve (see the previous
procedure). 2. Remove the under floor cover (A).
3. Loosen the sealing bolt (A) on the fuel joint block slowly.
4. Turn the fuel stem assembly (B) 1/2-1 turn counterclockwise. 5. Replace the fuel stem assembly
and sealing bolt O-ring (C).
NOTE: This procedure degrades the integrity of the fuel tank. Do it only if you are replacing the fuel
tank.
1. Lift the vehicle and support it with jackstands. 2. Close the manual shut-off valve (A).
3. Start the engine, and let it idle. After a few minutes, the engine will stall.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Filter > Fuel Pressure
Release > System Information > Service and Repair > Page 3745
4. Turn the ignition switch OFF, and disconnect the negative cable from the battery. 5. Connect a
ground wire (A) (available from AH special tools department) to the fuel line to eliminate any static
electricity.
6. Disconnect the fuel supply pipe (B) from fuel pressure regulator P1 (C). Be careful not to lose the
O-rings.
NOTE: Always use two wrenches when removing or installing the fuel pipe nut.
7. Connect the vent tube to the fuel supply pipe. 8. Secure the other end of the vent tube to the
highest possible location. 9. Remove the fuel pipe duct, and slowly remove the manual lock-down
valve (A). Install the manual override vent tool (B) (available from AH
10. Slowly turn the tool's Allen bolt clockwise until it stops. This opens the line between the fuel
tank and the manual shut-off valve. 11. Open the manual shut-off valve so fuel can vent from the
fuel tank. The fuel tank is empty when the hissing sound goes away. 12. Remove the manual
override vent tool.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Injector > Component
Information > Diagrams
59. Injectors
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Injector > Component
Information > Diagrams > Page 3749
Injector Replacement
WARNING: Compressed natural gas is flammable and highly explosive. You could be killed or
seriously injured if leaking natural gas is ignited. Stop the engine, and keep heat, sparks and
flames away.
1. Relieve fuel pressure between the engine and the manual shut-off valve. 2. Remove the cowl
cover and the under-cowl panel, 3. Disconnect the connectors (A) from the injectors, the fuel
temperature sensor, the MAP sensor, and the rocker arm oil control valve.
4. Remove the wire harness clips (B). 5. Remove the nut (C) and fuel feed hose (D). 6. Remove
the fuel rail mounting nuts (E) from the fuel rail (F). 7. Remove the screws (G) and the injector clips
(II) from the fuel rail. 8. Remove the injector covers (I) from the injectors. 9. Install the injector
covers (A)
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Injector > Component
Information > Diagrams > Page 3750
10. Coat the new O-rings (B) with silicone oil or polyalkyleneglycol (PAG) oil and insert the injectors
(C) into the fuel rail (D). 11. Install the injector clip (E) and screws (F). 12. Install the fuel rail and
the injector into the cylinder head (G). 13. Install the fuel rail mounting nuts. 14. Connect the fuel
feed hose with a new O-ring (II), then install the nut (I). 15. Connect the connectors on the
injectors, the fuel temperature sensor, the MAP sensor, the rocker arm oil control valve and
harness clips. 16. Do the leak inspection procedure. 17. Install the cowl cover and the under-cowl
panel,
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Injector Driver Module (CNG)
> Component Information > Locations
Fuel Injector Driver Module (CNG): Locations
138. Accessory Power Socket Relay, Front, Accessory Power Socket Relay, Rear (EX, Si) Or
Injector Control Module Relay (GX)
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Injector Driver Module (CNG)
> Component Information > Locations > Page 3758
266. Injector Control Module (GX)
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Injector Driver Module (CNG)
> Component Information > Locations > Page 3759
Fuel Injector Driver Module (CNG): Testing and Inspection
Use this chart to identify the type of relay, then do the test listed for it.
Normally-open type
- There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when battery positive terminal
is connected to the No. 4 terminal, and battery negative terminal is connected to the No. 3 terminal.
- There should be no continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power is
disconnected.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Injector Driver Module (CNG)
> Component Information > Locations > Page 3760
1. Remove the passenger's dashboard undercover, 2. Remove the right kick panel, 3. Disconnect
the injector control module connector (A).
4. Remove the injector control module (B). 5. Install the parts in the reverse order of removal.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Line Coupler > Component
Information > Service Precautions
The fuel line/quick-connect fittings (A), (B), (C), and (D) connect the fuel rail (E) to the fuel feed
hose (F), the fuel feed hose to the fuel line (G), the fuel line (II) to the fuel tank unit (I), the fuel
vapor line (J) to the EVAP canister (K), and the fuel tank vapor recirculation tube (L) to the fuel fill
pipe (M). When removing or installing the fuel feed hose, the fuel tank unit, or the fuel tank, it is
necessary to disconnect or connect the quick-connect fittings. Pay attention to the following:
- The fuel feed hoses, fuel line, and quick-connect fittings are not heat-resistant; be careful not to
damage them during welding or other heat-generating procedures.
- The fuel feed hoses, fuel line, and quick-connect fittings are not acid-proof; do not touch them
with a shop towel that was used for wiping battery electrolyte. Replace them if they come in contact
with electrolyte or something similar.
- When connecting or disconnecting the fuel feed hoses, fuel line, and quick-connect fittings, be
careful not to bend or twist them excessively. Replace them if they are damaged.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Line Coupler > Component
Information > Service Precautions > Page 3764
A disconnected quick-connect fitting can be reconnected, but the retainer on the mating line cannot
be reused once it has been removed from the line. Replace the retainer when:
- it is damaged.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Line Coupler > Component
Information > Service Precautions > Page 3765
NOTE:
- To prevent O-ring contamination, be sure O-rings and mating surfaces are clean just before
assembly.
- Install O-rings with clean hands. Do not install O-rings while wearing fibrous gloves.
1. Remove the old O-ring. 2. Wrap vinyl tape around the threads, and coat the surface of the tape
with silicone oil or grease.
NOTE: Wrap the vinyl tape (A) so that there is no stepped portion.
4. Using a small brush, apply silicone oil or grease to the outer surface of the O-ring. 5. Remove
the vinyl tape.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pressure Control Solenoid >
Component Information > Diagrams
Fuel Pressure Regulator: Service and Repair Fuel Pressure Regulator Thermostat Replacement
1. Remove the cowl panel and under-cowl cover. 2. Remove the water bypass hoses (A) from the
fuel pressure regulator thermostat, then plug the hoses.
3. Remove the fuel pressure regulator thermostat (B). 4. Install the fuel pressure regulator
thermostat in the reverse order of removal. 5. Install the cowl panel and under-cowl cover. 6. Refill
the radiator with engine coolant, and bleed the air from the cooling system with the heater valve
open.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pressure Regulator >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Fuel Pressure Regulator Thermostat Replacement > Page 3775
Fuel Pressure Regulator: Service and Repair Fuel Pressure Regulator PI Replacement
WARNING: Compressed natural gas is flammable and highly explosive. You could be killed or
seriously injured if leaking natural gas is ignited. Stop the engine, and keep heat, sparks and
flames away.
1. Relieve fuel pressure between the engine and the manual shut-off valve. 2. Drain the engine
coolant, 3. Remove the cowl cover and under-cowl panel, 4. Remove the fuel pressure regulator
protector (A).
5. Remove the fuel feed hose (B), then disconnect the hoses (C) and the fuel line (D).
NOTE: Always use two wrenches when removing or installing the fuel line nuts.
6. Disconnect the connectors (E), and remove the bolt (F) and the nut (G). 7. Lift the vehicle and
support it with jackstands. 8. Remove exhaust pipe A, 9. Remove the heat shield (A).
10. Remove fuel pressure regulator P1 (A) from the bracket (B).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pressure Regulator >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Fuel Pressure Regulator Thermostat Replacement > Page 3776
11. Move fuel pressure regulator PI (A) as shown.
14. Install fuel pressure regulator PI in the reverse order of removal. Be careful not to deform any of
the lines, and assemble them securely when you
NOTE: Apply silicone oil or polyalkyleneglycol (PAG) oil to a new O-ring and the fuel pressure
regulator.
15. Refill the radiator with engine coolant, 16. Do the leak inspection procedure.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pressure Sensor/Switch >
Component Information > Locations
Fuel Pressure Sensor/Switch: Service and Repair Fuel Pressure Switch Replacement
1. Remove fuel pressure regulator P1. 2. Remove the fuel pressure switch (A).
3. Apply silicone oil or polyalkyleneglycol (PAG) oil to a new O-ring (B) and carefully install it into its
proper position. 4. Install the parts in the reverse order of removal. 5. Do the leak inspection
procedure.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pressure Sensor/Switch >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Fuel Pressure Switch Replacement > Page 3785
Fuel Pressure Sensor/Switch: Service and Repair Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor Replacement
1. Relieve fuel pressure between the engine and the manual shut-off valve. 2. Remove the cowl
cover and under-cowl panel, 3. Remove the fuel feed hose (A).
4. Remove the fuel rail pressure sensor (B). 5. Apply silicone oil or polyalkyleneglycol (PAG) oil to a
new O-ring (C) and carefully install it into its proper position. 6. Install the parts in the reverse order
of removal. 7. Do the leak inspection procedure.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pump > Fuel Pressure >
System Information > Specifications
Fuel Pressure: Specifications
*at idle, as measured at the Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor, using the HDS or a scantool.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pump > Fuel Pressure >
System Information > Specifications > Page 3790
Fuel Pressure: Service Precautions
WARNING: Adhere to the following procedures any time the fuel system is being worked on in
order to reduce the risk of fire and personal injury:
- Keep a dry chemical (Class B) fire extinguisher near the work area.
- Work in a well-ventilated area. Do not smoke, and keep sparks and open flames away.
- Use caution when working near the catalytic converter to prevent the possibility of burns or fire.
(The temperatures within the converter can exceed 537 °C (1000 °F).
- Relieve the fuel system pressure prior to disconnecting fuel system components.
- Disconnect the negative battery cable except for tests where battery voltage is required.
- After making any fuel system repairs ALWAYS inspect for fuel leaks.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pump > Fuel Pressure >
System Information > Specifications > Page 3791
Fuel Pressure: Testing and Inspection
Fuel pressure can only be checked using the HDS and viewing the FUEL RAIL PRESSURE
SENSOR readings.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Receptacle (CNG) >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > CNG Fuel System - Fuel Receptacle Check
Fuel Receptacle (CNG): Technical Service Bulletins CNG Fuel System - Fuel Receptacle Check
08-085
BACKGROUND
Over time, the fuel receptacle can become worn. A worn fuel receptacle is usually noticed as a
raised lip around the outside of the receptacle. To check for a worn fuel receptacle, a new tool
(Ring Gauge, T/N RINGGO0001) is available.
ORDERING INFORMATION
One ring gauge was shipped to each CNG-certified dealer as a required special tool. Additional
ring gauges can be ordered through the Honda Tool and Equipment Program. To order on the iN,
click on Service, then Service Bay, then Tool and Equipment Program. From the Tool and
Equipment Program menu, click on the Online Catalog tab, and then search for Ring Gauge.
NOTE:
This simple check should be done whenever a Civic GX is in your shop for scheduled
maintenance.
2. Remove the dust cap from the fuel receptacle, and clean off any dirt or debris around the
receptacle.
- If the ring gauge slides easily past the first lip on the fuel receptacle, the receptacle is OK.
Remove the ring gauge, reinstall the dust cap, close the fuel receptacle door, and continue with
your maintenance procedures.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Receptacle (CNG) >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > CNG Fuel System - Fuel Receptacle Check > Page 3796
OK
- If the ring gauge does not slide easily over the first lip on the fuel receptacle, the receptacle needs
to be replaced. Refer to section 11 of the appropriate service manual for the replacement
procedure.
NOT OK
Ring gauge does not slide easily over first lip of fuel receptacle.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Receptacle (CNG) >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 3797
2. Check the filter (B) for contamination, and clean it if it is dirty. 3. Check the dust cap (C), and
replace it if it is damaged. 4. If you detect a leak at the fuel receptacle valve (A) after fuel filling,
blow fuel on the valve from the nozzle to remove the contamination.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Receptacle (CNG) >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 3798
1. Relieve fuel pressure between the fuel receptacle and the fuel tank. 2. Remove the fuel pipe
protector. 3. Remove the bolts (A).
NOTE: Always use two wrenches when removing or installing the fuel pipe nut.
5. Apply silicone grease (PARKER CHRISTO-LUBE) to a new O-ring (C), and carefully install it into
its proper position. 6. Install the parts in the reverse order of removal. 7. Do the leak inspection
procedure.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Return Line > Component
Information > Testing and Inspection
Check the fuel system lines, hoses, fuel filter, and other components for damage, leaks, and
deterioration, and replace them if necessary.
NOTE: When installing a new O-ring, apply silicone oil or polyalkyleneglycol (PAG) oil to the O-ring,
and carefully install it into its proper position.
* 1: Apply silicone grease (PARKER CHRISTO-LU BE) to a new O-ring at the fuel filter housing
and drain plug, and carefully install it into its proper position. * 2: Apply silicone oil or silicone
grease (Shinetsu silicone GR 1OM) to a new rubber seal, and carefully install it into its proper
position.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Return Line > Component
Information > Testing and Inspection > Page 3802
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Shut-off Solenoid > Fuel
Shut-off Solenoid Relay > Component Information > Locations
267. Fuel Shut-off Solenoid Valve Relay (GX) And Starter Control Relay (GX)
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Shut-off Solenoid > Fuel
Shut-off Solenoid Relay > Component Information > Locations > Page 3810
Fuel Shut-off Solenoid Relay: Testing and Inspection
Use this chart to identify the type of relay, then do the test listed for it.
Normally-open type
- There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when battery positive terminal
is connected to the No. 4 terminal, and battery negative terminal is connected to the No. 3 terminal.
- There should be no continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power is
disconnected.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Supply Line > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Recalls: > 08-076 > Oct > 08 > Recall - Fuel Feed Hose Bracket Nut Missing
Technical Service Bulletin # 08-076 Date: 081014
08-076
Applies To: 2008-09 Canadian Produced Civic 4-Door - See VEHICLES AFFECTED
BACKGROUND
On the engine compartment bulkhead, a bracket covering the fuel feed hose quick connect fitting is
secured with a bolt and a nut. This bracket protects the fuel hose quick connect fitting from damage
during a crash. On 128 vehicles, the nut for the fuel feed hose bracket is missing. In the event of a
crash, the bracket may become loose, which could damage the quick connect fitting. A damaged
quick connect fitting could lead to a fuel leak, increasing the risk of a fire.
VEHICLES AFFECTED
The 128 affected vehicles were built in Canada (VINs beginning with 2HG), between late August
and early September 2008. To verify vehicle eligibility, you must do a VIN status inquiry. If you re
working on a customer vehicle, also make sure the customer has a notification letter.
To see if a vehicle has already had this campaign completed, check for a punch mark below the
first character of the engine compartment VIN.
Some vehicles affected by this campaign may be in your new vehicle inventory. You should not sell
or lease these vehicles until they have been repaired. To see if a vehicle is affected by this
campaign, do a VIN status inquiry before selling or leasing it.
Should an unrepaired vehicle cause an injury or damage because of the recalled item, the
dealership will be solely responsible to the damaged party, and will be required to defend and
indemnify American Honda for any resulting claims.
CUSTOMER NOTIFICATION
Owners of affected vehicles will receive a notification of this campaign the week of October 13,
2008. An example of the customer notification is shown in this service bulletin.
CORRECTIVE ACTION
PARTS INFORMATION
REPAIR PROCEDURE
1. Carefully remove the center cowl cover using a trim tool (9 clips):
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Supply Line > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Recalls: > 08-076 > Oct > 08 > Recall - Fuel Feed Hose Bracket Nut Missing >
Page 3819
^ Refer to steps 1 and 2 of the 2006-2008 Civic Service Manual. or
^ Online, enter keyword COWL, select Cowl Cover Replacement from the list, and do steps 1 and 2
of the procedure.
^ Online, enter keyword COWL, select Cowl Cover Replacement from the list, and do step 4 of the
procedure.
3. Locate the fuel feed hose bracket. It's on the driver's side of the engine compartment bulkhead,
next to the heater core hoses.
4. Install a 6 mm nut (P/N 90361-SV4-003, H/C 4326476) onto the stud on the right side of the fuel
feed hose bracket. Torque the nut to 9.8 N.m (7.2 lb-ft).
6. Reinstall the center cowl cover, and replace any damaged clips.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Supply Line > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Recalls: > 08-076 > Oct > 08 > Recall - Fuel Feed Hose Bracket Nut Missing >
Page 3820
7. Center-punch a completion mark below the first character of the engine compartment VIN:
^ Slide open the FRAME NUMBER door on the center cowl cover.
Disclaimer
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Supply Line > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Recalls: > 08-076 > Oct > 08 > Recall - Fuel Feed Hose Bracket Nut Missing >
Page 3821
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Supply Line > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Recalls: > 08-076 > Oct > 08 > Recall - Fuel Feed Hose Bracket Nut Missing >
Page 3822
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Supply Line > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Fuel Supply Line: > 06-015 > May > 09 > Fuel
System - CNG Fuel Tank/Line Inspection
Fuel Supply Line: All Technical Service Bulletins Fuel System - CNG Fuel Tank/Line Inspection
06-015
May 6, 2009
(Supersedes 06-015, Natural Gas Fuel Tank Inspection, dated March 31, 2006, to revise the
information marked by the asterisks)
*REVISION SUMMARY
^ Under BACKGROUND, fuel line inspection and a reference to the 2006-09 service manual
supplement was added.
added:
- In step 5, an iN search path for information on how to inspect tanks and what to do if a tank is
expired or damaged beyond repair
- New steps 8, 9, and 10, describing a new inspection form for the fuel tank and the fuel lines*
BACKGROUND
The fuel tank in all Honda natural gas vehicles must be inspected for deterioration or damage every
3 years or 36,000 miles, whichever comes first. This is a requirement of Honda and of the federal
government. In addition, the fuel lines and related parts should be inspected to make sure they are
OK.
NOTE:
This service bulletin supersedes the natural gas fuel tank inspection procedure in the Civic GX
service manual supplements. On the following service manual supplement pages, make a note to
refer to this service bulletin for the fuel tank inspection procedure:
INSPECTION PROCEDURE
NOTE:
^ You must be a Honda NGV-certified technician to inspect or replace the fuel tank or the fuel lines.
^ To become Honda NGV-certified, complete the Honda technical training modules for natural gas
vehicles (modules GXC12 and GXS12). For more information, refer to the Online University on the
iN.
^ Fuel tank inspection does not require tank removal from the vehicle.
^ Wear gloves to protect your hands from sharp edges or carbon fibers.
1. Remove the rear seat. If needed, refer to the Body section of the appropriate Civic GX service
manual supplement.
2. Remove the trunk floor lid and the trunk partition. If needed, refer to the Body section of the
appropriate Civic GX service manual supplement.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Supply Line > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Fuel Supply Line: > 06-015 > May > 09 > Fuel
System - CNG Fuel Tank/Line Inspection > Page 3828
3. Check the fuel tank's expiration date. If the tank is expired, let the customer know that the tank
should be replaced to keep the vehicle compliant with
4. Using a flashlight and an inspection mirror, thoroughly check the fuel tank assembly for any of
these problems:
^ Improper alignment of the tank and its bands NOTE: The horizontal alignment marks should be
close, but they do not have to be perfect. Expansion of the fuel tank can cause the marks to move
slightly.
^ Dents, cuts, or abrasions on the tank cylinder or either of the tank domes
5. If you found any problems in step 4, repair them as needed. For problems with the tank cylinder
or the tank domes (dents, cuts, abrasions, expansion,
^ From the list of Job Aids, select the appropriate fuel tank inspection information: Civic GX Type 3
NGV Fuel Tank Inspection, or HONDA Civic GX Type 4 NGV Fuel Tank Inspection.
NOTE:
^ Because the fuel tank inspection documents are generic (not Honda-specific), some of the
information does not apply to Civic GX fuel tanks.
^ If the fuel tank is damaged beyond repair or past its expiration date, you must condemn it. For
tank disposal guidelines, refer to the appropriate tank inspection document (Type 3 or Type 4).
^ If a customer declines the repair of a damaged fuel tank or the replacement of an expired fuel
tank, clearly note the tank problems on the repair order. Let the customer know that their signature
on the repair order indicates that they were advised of the problem.
6. Check the fuel lines and related parts for any of the following problems, and repair or replace
them as needed:
^ Looseness (broken line retainers), damage, or leaks in the fuel feed lines on the bottom of the
vehicle.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Supply Line > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Fuel Supply Line: > 06-015 > May > 09 > Fuel
System - CNG Fuel Tank/Line Inspection > Page 3829
^ Damage or leaks at the fuel joint block.
^ Damage in the fuel tank relief valve (PRD) line, or a missing end cap on the line.
^ Excessive wear on the fuel receptacle (see Service Bulletin 08-085, Civic GX Fuel Receptacle
Check).
^ Damage to the fuel receptacle 0-ring or the fuel receptacle end cap.
7. Mark the label on the tank with your Honda NGV-certified inspector stamp, and use a permanent
marker to write the date below your stamp.
8. Print a copy of the Civic GX Fuel Tank/Fuel System Inspection Report from the iN:
NOTE:
This inspection report supersedes the NGV container inspection record forms in the Honda Civic
GX Type 3 and Type 4 inspection information.
^ From the list of Job Aids, select Civic GX Fuel Tank/Fuel System Inspection Report.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Supply Line > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Fuel Supply Line: > 06-015 > May > 09 > Fuel
System - CNG Fuel Tank/Line Inspection > Page 3830
9. Fill out the inspection report completely, including both the fuel tank and the fuel line inspection
items.
10. Make a photocopy of the completed inspection report; put one copy in the glove box, and place
the other in the customer's file.
11. Reinstall the trunk partition, the trunk floor lid, and the rear seat.
Disclaimer
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Supply Line > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Fuel Supply Line: > 08-076 > Oct > 08 >
Recall - Fuel Feed Hose Bracket Nut Missing
Technical Service Bulletin # 08-076 Date: 081014
Recall - Fuel Feed Hose Bracket Nut Missing
08-076
Applies To: 2008-09 Canadian Produced Civic 4-Door - See VEHICLES AFFECTED
BACKGROUND
On the engine compartment bulkhead, a bracket covering the fuel feed hose quick connect fitting is
secured with a bolt and a nut. This bracket protects the fuel hose quick connect fitting from damage
during a crash. On 128 vehicles, the nut for the fuel feed hose bracket is missing. In the event of a
crash, the bracket may become loose, which could damage the quick connect fitting. A damaged
quick connect fitting could lead to a fuel leak, increasing the risk of a fire.
VEHICLES AFFECTED
The 128 affected vehicles were built in Canada (VINs beginning with 2HG), between late August
and early September 2008. To verify vehicle eligibility, you must do a VIN status inquiry. If you re
working on a customer vehicle, also make sure the customer has a notification letter.
To see if a vehicle has already had this campaign completed, check for a punch mark below the
first character of the engine compartment VIN.
Some vehicles affected by this campaign may be in your new vehicle inventory. You should not sell
or lease these vehicles until they have been repaired. To see if a vehicle is affected by this
campaign, do a VIN status inquiry before selling or leasing it.
Should an unrepaired vehicle cause an injury or damage because of the recalled item, the
dealership will be solely responsible to the damaged party, and will be required to defend and
indemnify American Honda for any resulting claims.
CUSTOMER NOTIFICATION
Owners of affected vehicles will receive a notification of this campaign the week of October 13,
2008. An example of the customer notification is shown in this service bulletin.
CORRECTIVE ACTION
PARTS INFORMATION
REPAIR PROCEDURE
1. Carefully remove the center cowl cover using a trim tool (9 clips):
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Supply Line > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Fuel Supply Line: > 08-076 > Oct > 08 >
Recall - Fuel Feed Hose Bracket Nut Missing > Page 3835
^ Refer to steps 1 and 2 of the 2006-2008 Civic Service Manual. or
^ Online, enter keyword COWL, select Cowl Cover Replacement from the list, and do steps 1 and 2
of the procedure.
^ Online, enter keyword COWL, select Cowl Cover Replacement from the list, and do step 4 of the
procedure.
3. Locate the fuel feed hose bracket. It's on the driver's side of the engine compartment bulkhead,
next to the heater core hoses.
4. Install a 6 mm nut (P/N 90361-SV4-003, H/C 4326476) onto the stud on the right side of the fuel
feed hose bracket. Torque the nut to 9.8 N.m (7.2 lb-ft).
6. Reinstall the center cowl cover, and replace any damaged clips.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Supply Line > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Fuel Supply Line: > 08-076 > Oct > 08 >
Recall - Fuel Feed Hose Bracket Nut Missing > Page 3836
7. Center-punch a completion mark below the first character of the engine compartment VIN:
^ Slide open the FRAME NUMBER door on the center cowl cover.
Disclaimer
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Supply Line > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Fuel Supply Line: > 08-076 > Oct > 08 >
Recall - Fuel Feed Hose Bracket Nut Missing > Page 3837
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Supply Line > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Fuel Supply Line: > 08-076 > Oct > 08 >
Recall - Fuel Feed Hose Bracket Nut Missing > Page 3838
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Supply Line > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Fuel Supply Line: > 06-015 > May > 09 > Fuel
System - CNG Fuel Tank/Line Inspection
Fuel Supply Line: All Technical Service Bulletins Fuel System - CNG Fuel Tank/Line Inspection
06-015
May 6, 2009
(Supersedes 06-015, Natural Gas Fuel Tank Inspection, dated March 31, 2006, to revise the
information marked by the asterisks)
*REVISION SUMMARY
^ Under BACKGROUND, fuel line inspection and a reference to the 2006-09 service manual
supplement was added.
added:
- In step 5, an iN search path for information on how to inspect tanks and what to do if a tank is
expired or damaged beyond repair
- New steps 8, 9, and 10, describing a new inspection form for the fuel tank and the fuel lines*
BACKGROUND
The fuel tank in all Honda natural gas vehicles must be inspected for deterioration or damage every
3 years or 36,000 miles, whichever comes first. This is a requirement of Honda and of the federal
government. In addition, the fuel lines and related parts should be inspected to make sure they are
OK.
NOTE:
This service bulletin supersedes the natural gas fuel tank inspection procedure in the Civic GX
service manual supplements. On the following service manual supplement pages, make a note to
refer to this service bulletin for the fuel tank inspection procedure:
INSPECTION PROCEDURE
NOTE:
^ You must be a Honda NGV-certified technician to inspect or replace the fuel tank or the fuel lines.
^ To become Honda NGV-certified, complete the Honda technical training modules for natural gas
vehicles (modules GXC12 and GXS12). For more information, refer to the Online University on the
iN.
^ Fuel tank inspection does not require tank removal from the vehicle.
^ Wear gloves to protect your hands from sharp edges or carbon fibers.
1. Remove the rear seat. If needed, refer to the Body section of the appropriate Civic GX service
manual supplement.
2. Remove the trunk floor lid and the trunk partition. If needed, refer to the Body section of the
appropriate Civic GX service manual supplement.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Supply Line > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Fuel Supply Line: > 06-015 > May > 09 > Fuel
System - CNG Fuel Tank/Line Inspection > Page 3844
3. Check the fuel tank's expiration date. If the tank is expired, let the customer know that the tank
should be replaced to keep the vehicle compliant with
4. Using a flashlight and an inspection mirror, thoroughly check the fuel tank assembly for any of
these problems:
^ Improper alignment of the tank and its bands NOTE: The horizontal alignment marks should be
close, but they do not have to be perfect. Expansion of the fuel tank can cause the marks to move
slightly.
^ Dents, cuts, or abrasions on the tank cylinder or either of the tank domes
5. If you found any problems in step 4, repair them as needed. For problems with the tank cylinder
or the tank domes (dents, cuts, abrasions, expansion,
^ From the list of Job Aids, select the appropriate fuel tank inspection information: Civic GX Type 3
NGV Fuel Tank Inspection, or HONDA Civic GX Type 4 NGV Fuel Tank Inspection.
NOTE:
^ Because the fuel tank inspection documents are generic (not Honda-specific), some of the
information does not apply to Civic GX fuel tanks.
^ If the fuel tank is damaged beyond repair or past its expiration date, you must condemn it. For
tank disposal guidelines, refer to the appropriate tank inspection document (Type 3 or Type 4).
^ If a customer declines the repair of a damaged fuel tank or the replacement of an expired fuel
tank, clearly note the tank problems on the repair order. Let the customer know that their signature
on the repair order indicates that they were advised of the problem.
6. Check the fuel lines and related parts for any of the following problems, and repair or replace
them as needed:
^ Looseness (broken line retainers), damage, or leaks in the fuel feed lines on the bottom of the
vehicle.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Supply Line > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Fuel Supply Line: > 06-015 > May > 09 > Fuel
System - CNG Fuel Tank/Line Inspection > Page 3845
^ Damage or leaks at the fuel joint block.
^ Damage in the fuel tank relief valve (PRD) line, or a missing end cap on the line.
^ Excessive wear on the fuel receptacle (see Service Bulletin 08-085, Civic GX Fuel Receptacle
Check).
^ Damage to the fuel receptacle 0-ring or the fuel receptacle end cap.
7. Mark the label on the tank with your Honda NGV-certified inspector stamp, and use a permanent
marker to write the date below your stamp.
8. Print a copy of the Civic GX Fuel Tank/Fuel System Inspection Report from the iN:
NOTE:
This inspection report supersedes the NGV container inspection record forms in the Honda Civic
GX Type 3 and Type 4 inspection information.
^ From the list of Job Aids, select Civic GX Fuel Tank/Fuel System Inspection Report.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Supply Line > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Fuel Supply Line: > 06-015 > May > 09 > Fuel
System - CNG Fuel Tank/Line Inspection > Page 3846
9. Fill out the inspection report completely, including both the fuel tank and the fuel line inspection
items.
10. Make a photocopy of the completed inspection report; put one copy in the glove box, and place
the other in the customer's file.
11. Reinstall the trunk partition, the trunk floor lid, and the rear seat.
Disclaimer
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Supply Line > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 3847
Check the fuel system lines, hoses, fuel filter, and other components for damage, leaks, and
deterioration, and replace them if necessary.
NOTE: When installing a new O-ring, apply silicone oil or polyalkyleneglycol (PAG) oil to the O-ring,
and carefully install it into its proper position.
* 1: Apply silicone grease (PARKER CHRISTO-LU BE) to a new O-ring at the fuel filter housing
and drain plug, and carefully install it into its proper position. * 2: Apply silicone oil or silicone
grease (Shinetsu silicone GR 1OM) to a new rubber seal, and carefully install it into its proper
position.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Supply Line > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 3848
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel System Manual Control
Valve (CNG) > Component Information > Service and Repair
Fuel System Manual Control Valve (CNG): Service and Repair
1. Relieve fuel pressure between the engine and the fuel tank. 2. Lift the vehicle, and support it with
jackstands. 3. Remove the under-floor cover (A).
NOTE: Always use two wrenches when removing or installing the fuel line nuts.
5. Remove the bolt (B) and the manual shut-off valve (C). 6. Apply silicone grease (PARKER
CHRISTO-LUBE) to the new O-rings (D) and carefully install them into their proper positions. 7.
Install the parts in the reverse order of removal. 8. Do the leak inspection procedure.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Tank > Fuel Filler Neck >
Component Information > Service and Repair
NOTE:
- Do the fuel pressure relieving between the fuel receptacle and the fuel tank.
- Take care not to scratch the body.
- Fuel cap
- Fuel receptacle.
2. Remove the fuel fill door switch (A) by turning it 90 ° from the fuel receptacle adapter (B).
4. Remove the fuel cap grommet. 5. While pushing the fuel fill door latch (A) in, turn the fuel
receptacle adapter (B), then remove it.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Tank > Fuel Filler Neck >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Page 3856
1. Check the No. 10 METER (7.5 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box before testing. 2. Check
for body electrical system DTCs.
3. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 4. Remove the rear seat cushion. 5. Remove the rear floor upper
cross-member (A).
7. Disconnect the fuel tank unit 4P connector (B). 8. Measure voltage between fuel tank unit 4P
connector terminals No. 1 and No. 3 with the ignition switch ON (II). There should be battery
voltage.
10. Remove the fuel tank unit from the fuel tank. 11. Measure resistance between fuel tank unit 4P
connector terminals No. 1 and No. 3 with the float at E (EMPTY), LOW (LOW FUEL
INDICATOR), 1/2 (HALF FULL), and F (FULL) positions. If you do not get the following readings,
replace the fuel gauge sending unit.
12. Reconnect the fuel tank unit 4P connector. 13. Remove the No. 23 BACK UP (10 A) fuse from
the under-hood fuse/relay box for at least 10 seconds, then reinstall it. 14. Turn the ignition switch
ON (II). 15. Check that the pointer of the fuel gauge indicates "F" with the float at F.
- If the pointer of the fuel gauge does not indicate "F", replace the gauge assembly.
NOTE: -
The pointer of the fuel gauge returns to the bottom of the gauge dial when the ignition switch is
OFF, regardless of the fuel level.
- Remove the No. 23 BACK UP (10 A) fuse from the under-hood fuse/relay box for at least 10
seconds after completing troubleshooting, otherwise it may take up to 20 minutes for the fuel gauge
to indicate the correct fuel level.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Tank > Fuel Gauge Sender >
Component Information > Locations > Page 3863
1. Remove the fuel tank unit. 2. Remove the fuel level sensor (fuel sending unit) (A) from the fuel
tank unit (B).
- When connecting the wire harness, make sure the connection is secure and the connectors (C)
are firmly locked into place.
- When installing the fuel gauge sending unit, make sure the connection is secure. Be careful not to
bend or twist it excessively.
4. Install the parts in the reverse order of removal. When installing the fuel tank unit, align the
marks on the unit and the fuel tank.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Tank > Fuel Tank Pressure
Sensor (CNG) > Component Information > Locations
1. Remove the fuel joint block. 2. Remove the FTT sensor (A).
3. Apply silicone oil or polyalkyleneglycol (PAG) oil to a new O-ring (B) and carefully install it into its
proper position. 4. Install the parts in the reverse order of removal. 5. Do the leak inspection
procedure.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Tank Unit > Component
Information > Locations
Circuit Schematics
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Tank Unit > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3876
Circuit Schematics
Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show
current flow, from power at the top of the diagram, to ground at the bottom.
Shared Circuits
Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that
connects one circuit to another, for example, is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it
pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or
component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring, check the operation of a
component it serves. If that component works, you know the shared wiring is OK.
Connectors
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Tank Unit > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3877
All in-line and junction connectors are numbered (C725, C416, etc.). Component connectors are
not numbered but are identified either by the name of the component if the component only has
one connector, or by a capital letter (A, B, C, etc.) if the component has more than one connector.
Below most connector numbers and component names are PHOTO and VIEW numbers. The
PHOTO number refers to a photo at Vehicle Level Locations that shows the connector's location on
the car. The VIEW number refers to an connector view at the Vehicle Level Connector Views that
shows the connector terminals, wire colors, connector cavity numbers, and other details.
The connector cavity numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector as seen
from either of the viewpoints. Except for the DLC (data link connector), disregard any numbers
molded into the connector housing.
Wires
Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the
stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number "2" next to the male
and female wire terminals at C554, for example, means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector
C554.
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the vehicle. Refer to the Power Distribution Diagram Set to get a more detailed
understanding of how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on. Individual circuit
schematics begin with a fuse. So if Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another
circuit share a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good
and power is available to the inoperative circuit.
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share the same
ground point.
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Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3879
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Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3880
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Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3881
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Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3882
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Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3883
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Tank Unit > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3884
How to Identify Connector Terminals
Connector terminals are numbered according to the cavities they are in. The cavities are numbered
starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side or looking at the
female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the
same. All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not
the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the
connector face.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Tank Unit > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3885
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown above is #6.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Tank Unit > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3886
The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice
connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for
all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement
terminal availability.
On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged,
replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If
any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it.
Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the
wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the
terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to
make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a
factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS.
Use the tools from Pin Tool Set. First, check the connector that you are about to repair.
- If it has a secondary terminal lock, go to Connectors With a Secondary Lock. A secondary lock,
found on most connectors on some models, is an additional locking device on the connector
housing as a backup for the primary lock on the terminal.
- If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock.
All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the
secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the
connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities.
EXAMPLE A:
EXAMPLE B:
EXAMPLE C:
EXAMPLE D:
2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW
TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE E:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Tank Unit > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3890
1. Remove the secondary locks.
2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW
TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE F:
3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of
connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary
in size and shape.
EXAMPLE A:
EXAMPLE B:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Tank Unit > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3892
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE C:
EXAMPLE D:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Tank Unit > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3893
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE E:
EXAMPLE F:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Tank Unit > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3894
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE G:
1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct
replacement terminal based on the wire size range
NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part
number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available
through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures.
2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Tank Unit > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3895
3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the
wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from
the kit.)
NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did,
cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again.
4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the
anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown
in step 3.
6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact.
- If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool
over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the
stops make contact.
- If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully
squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Tank Unit > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3896
8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the following NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and
start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the
way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure
10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector.
Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too
short or when access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair.
On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged,
replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If
any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it.
1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from
Pin Tool Set.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Tank Unit > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3897
2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal,
then strip about half of the insulation off that piece.
This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal.
NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will
not nick or cut off any strands of wires.
3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and
same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit
onto the stripped end of the original wire.
5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the
pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more
than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at
the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the
harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make
each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail.
7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends
of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue
NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the
stripper.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Tank Unit > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3898
8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the
flare begins), and close the crimper handles far
enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click,
squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open.
9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the
wire all the way into the splice connector, and
squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until
the ratchet clicks again.
10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After
crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the
connector.
12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire(s), and shield them with
nonflammable material.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Tank Unit > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3899
13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the
gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat
evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete
when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube.
NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun.
Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the
wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size)
splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select
the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in
quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures.
Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the
Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching
connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body.
1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Tank Unit > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3900
2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool.
NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal
because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit.
3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal
with a replacement terminal from the appropriate
Five-Step Troubleshooting
Five-Step Troubleshooting
Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint.
Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
problem area.
Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by
tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground (certain
circuits contain a "How the Circuit Works" Diagram set). Also, trace circuits that share wiring with
the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on,
are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step
1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used
only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely
cause.
Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more
possible causes.
Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple
procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to
make tests at points that are easily accessible.
Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe
procedures.
Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire
problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure
no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur.
Test Equipment
Test Equipment
CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
1O-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up
of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to
various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is
voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital
volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is
between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM).
In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low
resistance means good continuity.
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Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3901
Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a
reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is
affecting the measurement.
To order any test equipment shown, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool
numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin.
Jumper Wire
Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder
connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire
across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse.
To order any test equipment shown, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool
numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin.
Troubleshooting Precautions
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION: -
Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
- Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles.
2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part
Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place.
CAUTION: -
Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
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Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3902
- Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-mega
ohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that
contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
Troubleshooting Tests
Troubleshooting Tests
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt
ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest
"OHMS" range.
2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you
want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end.
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Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3903
4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or
no reading (zero), means good continuity.
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem. Circuits must be operating when checking
voltage drop.
1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts
range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage
is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM
voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Tank Unit > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Fuel Pump/Fuel Gauge Sending Unit Replacement
Fuel Tank Unit: Service and Repair Fuel Pump/Fuel Gauge Sending Unit Replacement
1. Remove the fuel tank unit. 2. Remove the fuel level sensor (fuel sending unit) (A) from the fuel
tank unit (B).
- When connecting the wire harness, make sure the connection is secure and the connectors (C)
are firmly locked into place.
- When installing the fuel gauge sending unit, make sure the connection is secure. Be careful not to
bend or twist it excessively.
4. Install the parts in the reverse order of removal. When installing the fuel tank unit, align the
marks on the unit and the fuel tank.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Tank Unit > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Fuel Pump/Fuel Gauge Sending Unit Replacement > Page 3906
Fuel Tank Unit: Service and Repair Fuel Tank Unit Removal and Installation
Removal
1. Relieve the fuel pressure. 2. Remove the fuel fill cap. 3. Remove the rear seat cushion. 4.
Remove the rear floor upper cross-member (A).
6. Disconnect the fuel tank unit 4P connector (B). 7. Disconnect the quick-connect fittings (C) from
the fuel tank unit. 8. Using the special tool, loosen the locknut (A).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Tank Unit > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Fuel Pump/Fuel Gauge Sending Unit Replacement > Page 3907
9. Remove the locknut (A) and the fuel tank unit (B).
Installation
1. Temporarily attach a new base gasket (A) to the fuel tank unit (B), then insert the fuel tank unit
partially into the fuel tank.
NOTE: -
3. Align the marks (B) on the fuel tank and the fuel tank unit, then insert the fuel tank unit into the
fuel tank until it sits on the base gasket.
NOTE: To prevent a fuel leak, check the base gasket, visually or by hand, to make sure it is not
pinched.
4. Install the new locknut plate (A) and new locknut (B).
5. Using the special tool, tighten a locknut (A) to the specified torque.
NOTE: -
- After installation, check the base gasket, visually or by hand, to make sure it is not pinched.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Tank Unit > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Fuel Pump/Fuel Gauge Sending Unit Replacement > Page 3909
6. Connect the fuel tank unit 4P connector, then connect the quick-connect fitting. 7. Reconnect the
negative cable to the battery, and turn the ignition switch ON (II) (but do not operate the starter
motor). The fuel pump will run for
about 2 seconds, and fuel pressure will rise. Repeat this two or three times, then check that there is
no leakage in the fuel supply system.
1. Relieve fuel pressure between the engine and the manual shut-off valve. 2. Remove the cowl
cover and under-cowl panel, 3. Disconnect the fuel temperature sensor connector (A).
4. Remove the fuel temperature sensor (B). 5. Apply silicone oil or polyalkyleneglycol (PAG) oil to a
new O-ring (C) and carefully install it into its proper position. 6. Install the parts in the reverse order
of removal. 7. Do the leak inspection procedure.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Main Relay (Computer/Fuel
System) > Component Information > Locations
PGM-FI main relay 1 is energized whenever the ignition switch is ON (II) to supply battery voltage
to the PCM, and power for the injector control module relay and the ETCS control relay.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Main Relay (Computer/Fuel
System) > Component Information > Locations > Page 3921
Main Relay (Computer/Fuel System): Testing and Inspection
Use this chart to identify the type of relay, then do the test listed for it.
Normally-open type
- There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when battery positive terminal
is connected to the No. 4 terminal, and battery negative terminal is connected to the No. 3 terminal.
- There should be no continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power is
disconnected.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Relays and Modules - Fuel
Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Injector Driver Module (CNG) > Component Information > Locations
Fuel Injector Driver Module (CNG): Locations
138. Accessory Power Socket Relay, Front, Accessory Power Socket Relay, Rear (EX, Si) Or
Injector Control Module Relay (GX)
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Relays and Modules - Fuel
Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Injector Driver Module (CNG) > Component Information > Locations > Page 3930
266. Injector Control Module (GX)
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Relays and Modules - Fuel
Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Injector Driver Module (CNG) > Component Information > Locations > Page 3931
Fuel Injector Driver Module (CNG): Testing and Inspection
Use this chart to identify the type of relay, then do the test listed for it.
Normally-open type
- There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when battery positive terminal
is connected to the No. 4 terminal, and battery negative terminal is connected to the No. 3 terminal.
- There should be no continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power is
disconnected.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Relays and Modules - Fuel
Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Injector Driver Module (CNG) > Component Information > Locations > Page 3932
1. Remove the passenger's dashboard undercover, 2. Remove the right kick panel, 3. Disconnect
the injector control module connector (A).
4. Remove the injector control module (B). 5. Install the parts in the reverse order of removal.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Relays and Modules - Fuel
Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Shut-off Solenoid Relay > Component Information > Locations
267. Fuel Shut-off Solenoid Valve Relay (GX) And Starter Control Relay (GX)
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Relays and Modules - Fuel
Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Shut-off Solenoid Relay > Component Information > Locations > Page 3939
Fuel Shut-off Solenoid Relay: Testing and Inspection
Use this chart to identify the type of relay, then do the test listed for it.
Normally-open type
- There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when battery positive terminal
is connected to the No. 4 terminal, and battery negative terminal is connected to the No. 3 terminal.
- There should be no continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power is
disconnected.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Relays and Modules - Fuel
Delivery and Air Induction > Main Relay (Computer/Fuel System) > Component Information > Locations
PGM-FI main relay 1 is energized whenever the ignition switch is ON (II) to supply battery voltage
to the PCM, and power for the injector control module relay and the ETCS control relay.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Relays and Modules - Fuel
Delivery and Air Induction > Main Relay (Computer/Fuel System) > Component Information > Locations > Page 3945
Main Relay (Computer/Fuel System): Testing and Inspection
Use this chart to identify the type of relay, then do the test listed for it.
Normally-open type
- There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when battery positive terminal
is connected to the No. 4 terminal, and battery negative terminal is connected to the No. 3 terminal.
- There should be no continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power is
disconnected.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Resonator, Intake Air >
Component Information > Service and Repair
Resonator Removal/Installation
1. Remove the front bumper. 2. Remove the bolts (A), and the intake air ducts (B).
3. Remove the resonator (C). 4. Install the parts in the reverse order of removal.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Sensors and Switches - Fuel
Delivery and Air Induction > Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor > Component Information > Locations
The throttle is electronically controlled by the electronic throttle control system. Refer to the system
diagram to see a functional layout of the system.
Idle control: When the engine is idling, the PCM controls the throttle actuator to maintain the proper
idle speed according to engine loads.
Acceleration control: When the accelerator pedal is pressed, the PCM opens the throttle valve
depending on the accelerator pedal position (APP) sensor signal.
Cruise control: The PCM controls the throttle actuator to maintain set speed when the cruise
control is operating. The throttle actuator takes the place of the cruise control actuator.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Sensors and Switches - Fuel
Delivery and Air Induction > Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor > Component Information > Description and Operation >
Electronic Throttle Control System > Page 3957
Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor: Description and Operation Accelerator Pedal Position (APP)
Sensor
As the accelerator pedal position changes, the sensor varies the signal voltage to the PCM.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Sensors and Switches - Fuel
Delivery and Air Induction > Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor > Component Information > Description and Operation >
Page 3958
NOTE:
- This procedure checks the APP sensor in its fully closed position. In any other position, the APP
sensor stores DTCs which are covered in other troubleshooting procedures.
- Check for Temporary DTCs or DTCs with the HDS before doing this procedure. If any DTCs are
indicated, troubleshoot them first, then do this procedure.
- Press the accelerator pedal several times to check its operation. If it does not operate smoothly,
check the pedal. If you find a problem, replace the accelerator pedal module.
1. Connect the HDS to the data link connector (DLC) (A) located under the driver's side of the
dashboard.
2. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). 3. Make sure the HDS communicates with the ECM/PCM. If it
doesn't, go to the DLC circuit troubleshooting. See: Computers and Control
4. Make sure the accelerator pedal is not pressed, then check the APP SENSOR in the DATA LIST
with the HDS.
- If it is not 0 %, update the ECM/PCM if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a
known-good ECM/PCM, then go to step 5.
5. Make sure the accelerator pedal is not pressed, then check the APP SENSOR in the DATA LIST
with the HDS.
- If it is 0 %, the APP sensor is OK.
NOTE: The APP sensor is not available separately. Do not disassemble the accelerator pedal
module.
50. Left Side Of Engine Comp. (DX, DX-G, LX, GX, EX)
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Sensors and Switches - Fuel
Delivery and Air Induction > Air Flow Meter/Sensor > Component Information > Locations > Page 3963
The mass airflow (MAF) sensor/intake air temperature (IAT) sensor contains a hot wire and a
thermistor. It is located in the intake air passage. The resistance of the hot wire and thermistor
changes due to intake air temperature and airflow. The control circuit in the MAF sensor controls
the current to keep the hot wire at a set temperature. The current is converted to voltage in the
control circuit, then output to the PCM.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Sensors and Switches - Fuel
Delivery and Air Induction > Air Flow Meter/Sensor > Component Information > Locations > Page 3966
2. Remove the bolts (B). 3. Remove the MAF sensor/IAT sensor (C). 4. Install the parts in the
reverse order of removal with a new O-ring (D).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Sensors and Switches - Fuel
Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pressure Sensor/Switch > Component Information > Locations
Fuel Pressure Sensor/Switch: Service and Repair Fuel Pressure Switch Replacement
1. Remove fuel pressure regulator P1. 2. Remove the fuel pressure switch (A).
3. Apply silicone oil or polyalkyleneglycol (PAG) oil to a new O-ring (B) and carefully install it into its
proper position. 4. Install the parts in the reverse order of removal. 5. Do the leak inspection
procedure.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Sensors and Switches - Fuel
Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pressure Sensor/Switch > Component Information > Service and Repair > Fuel Pressure
Switch Replacement > Page 3974
Fuel Pressure Sensor/Switch: Service and Repair Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor Replacement
1. Relieve fuel pressure between the engine and the manual shut-off valve. 2. Remove the cowl
cover and under-cowl panel, 3. Remove the fuel feed hose (A).
4. Remove the fuel rail pressure sensor (B). 5. Apply silicone oil or polyalkyleneglycol (PAG) oil to a
new O-ring (C) and carefully install it into its proper position. 6. Install the parts in the reverse order
of removal. 7. Do the leak inspection procedure.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Sensors and Switches - Fuel
Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Temperature Sensor > Component Information > Locations
Fuel Temperature Sensor: Locations
1. Relieve fuel pressure between the engine and the manual shut-off valve. 2. Remove the cowl
cover and under-cowl panel, 3. Disconnect the fuel temperature sensor connector (A).
4. Remove the fuel temperature sensor (B). 5. Apply silicone oil or polyalkyleneglycol (PAG) oil to a
new O-ring (C) and carefully install it into its proper position. 6. Install the parts in the reverse order
of removal. 7. Do the leak inspection procedure.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Sensors and Switches - Fuel
Delivery and Air Induction > Throttle Position Sensor > Component Information > Locations
Throttle Body
The throttle body is a single-barrel side draft type. The lower portion of the throttle valve is heated
by engine coolant from the cylinder head to prevent icing of the throttle plate.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Throttle Body > Component
Information > Description and Operation > Page 3989
Throttle Body: Testing and Inspection
NOTE: If the malfunction indicator lamp (MIL) has been reported on, check for diagnostic trouble
codes (DTCs).
1. Connect the HDS to the data link connector (DLC) (A) located under the driver's side of the
dashboard.
2. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). 3. Make sure the HDS communicates with the ECM/PCM. If it
doesn't, go to the DLC circuit troubleshooting. See: Computers and Control
4. Start the engine. Hold the engine speed at 3,000 rpm without load (in Park or neutral) until the
radiator fan comes on, then let it idle. 5. Check the REL TP SENSOR in the DATA LIST with the
HDS. The reading should be below 3 °. If it is not, clean the throttle body.
NOTE: If the malfunction indicator lamp (MIL) has been reported on, check for diagnostic trouble
codes (DTCs).
1. Connect the HDS to the data link connector (DLC) (A) located under the driver's side of the
dashboard.
2. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). 3. Make sure the HDS communicates with the ECM/PCM. If it
doesn't, go to the DLC circuit troubleshooting. See: Computers and Control
4. Select the INSPECTION MENU with the HDS. 5. Do the TP POSITION CHECK in the ETCS
TEST. If needed, clean the throttle body.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Throttle Body > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Procedures
CAUTION: Do not insert your fingers into the installed throttle body when you turn the ignition
switch ON (II) or while the ignition switch is ON (II). If you do, you will seriously injure your fingers if
the throttle valve is activated.
1. Check for damage to the air cleaner. If the air cleaner is damaged, replace it. 2. Remove the
throttle body. 3. Clean off the carbon from the throttle valve and inside the throttle body with a
paper towel soaked in throttle plate and induction cleaner.
NOTE: -
- To avoid removing the molybdenum coating, do not clean the bearing area of the throttle shaft
(A).
- Do not spray throttle plate and induction cleaner directly on the throttle body.
4. Install the throttle body. 5. Reset the ECM/PCM with the HDS. 6. Turn the ignition switch ON (II),
and wait 2 seconds. 7. Do the ECM/PCM idle learn procedure.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Throttle Body > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Procedures > Page 3992
CAUTION: Do not insert your fingers into the installed throttle body when you turn the ignition
switch ON (II) or while the ignition switch is ON (II). If you do, you will seriously injure your fingers if
the throttle valve is activated.
NOTE: If you are replacing or cleaning the throttle body, start at step 1. If you are removing the
throttle body, start at step 4.
1. Connect the HDS to the DLC while the engine is stopped. 2. Select the INSPECTION MENU on
the HDS. 3. Do the TP POSITION CHECK in the ETCS TEST. 4. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 5.
Remove the cowl cover and the under-cowl panel, 6. Remove the air cleaner, 7. Disconnect the
throttle body connector (A) and the vacuum hose (B).
8. Disconnect and plug the water bypass hoses (C). 9. Remove the throttle body (D).
10. Install the parts in the reverse order of removal with a new gasket (E).
NOTE: -
1. Remove the intake manifold. 2. Remove the bolts (A) and the IMT actuator (B).
3. Install the parts in the reverse order of removal with a new O-ring (C).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Variable Induction System >
Variable Induction Control Valve > Component Information > Service and Repair
3. Remove the bolts (B) and the IMT valve (C). 4. Install the parts in the reverse order of removal
with new O-rings (D).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Firing Order > Component Information >
Specifications
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Ignition Timing > System Information >
Specifications
Ignition Timing: Specifications
Ignition Timing
M/T:
......................................................................................................................................................... 8
° ± 2 ° BTDC (RED mark (B)) at idle in Neutral A/T:
........................................................................................................................................................... 8
° ± 2 ° BTDC (RED mark (B)) at idle in N or P
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Ignition Timing > System Information >
Specifications > Page 4017
Ignition Timing: Description and Operation
The PCM contains the memory for basic ignition timing at various engine speeds and manifold
absolute pressure. It also adjusts the timing according to engine coolant temperature and intake air
temperature.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Ignition Timing > System Information >
Specifications > Page 4018
Ignition Timing: Testing and Inspection
1. Connect the Honda Diagnostic System (HDS) to the data link connector (DLC). 2. Turn the
ignition switch to ON (II). 3. Make sure the HDS communicates with the vehicle and the ECM/PCM.
If it doesn't communicate, troubleshoot the DLC circuit. 4. Check for DTCs. If a DTC is present,
diagnose and repair the cause before continuing with this test. 5. Start the engine. Hold the engine
speed at 3,000 rpm with no load (in N or P (A/T) or neutral (M/T)) until the radiator fan comes on,
then let it
idle.
6. Check the idle speed. 7. Jump the SCS line with the HDS. 8. Connect the timing light to the No.
1 ignition coil harness.
9. Aim the light toward the pointer (A) on the cam chain case. Check the ignition timing under a no
load condition (headlights, blower fan, rear
10. If the ignition timing differs from the specification, check the cam timing. If the cam timing is OK,
update the engine control module
(ECM)/powertrain control module (PCM) if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a
known-good ECM/PCM, then recheck. If the system works properly, and the ECM/PCM was
substituted, replace the original ECM/PCM.
The CMP sensor detects the position of the No. 1 cylinder as a reference for sequential fuel
injection to each cylinder.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Camshaft Position Sensor > Component
Information > Service and Repair > CMP Sensor Replacement
1. Remove the cowl cover and under-cowl panel. 2. Disconnect the CMP sensor 3P connector (A).
3. Remove the CMP sensor (B). 4. Install the parts in the reverse order of removal with a new
O-ring (C).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Camshaft Position Sensor > Component
Information > Service and Repair > CMP Sensor Replacement > Page 4027
Camshaft Position Sensor: Service and Repair CMP Pulse Plate Removal and Installation
Removal
1. Remove the air cleaner assembly. 2. Remove the air cleaner housing bracket (A), then remove
the harness holder (B) from the cylinder head.
3. Remove the rocker arm assembly. 4. Remove the camshaft thrust cover.
5. Hold the camshaft with a 27 mm open-end wrench, then loosen the bolt.
2. Hold the camshaft with a 27 mm open-end wrench, then tighten the bolt.
3. Install the camshaft thrust cover (A) with a new O-ring (B).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Camshaft Position Sensor > Component
Information > Service and Repair > CMP Sensor Replacement > Page 4029
4. Install the rocker arm assembly. 5. Install the harness holder (A) on the cylinder head, then
install the air cleaner housing bracket (B).
The CKP sensor detects crankshaft speed and is used by the PCM to determine ignition timing and
timing for fuel injection of each cylinder as well as detecting engine misfire.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component
Information > Locations > Page 4036
Crankshaft Position Sensor: Service and Repair
1. Remove the splash shield; 2-door, 4-door. 2. Disconnect the CKP sensor 3P connector (A).
3. Remove the CKP sensor (B). 4. Install the parts in the reverse order of removal with a new
O-ring (C). 5. Do the CKP pattern clear/CKP pattern learn procedure below.
1. Connect the HDS to the data link connector (DLC) (A) located under the driver's side of the
dashboard.
2. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). 3. Make sure the HDS communicates with the ECM/PCM and
other vehicle systems. If it doesn't, go to the DLC circuit troubleshooting. See:
4. Select CRANK PATTERN in the ADJUSTMENT MENU with the HDS. 5. Select CRANK
PATTERN LEARNING with the HDS, and follow the screen prompts.
1. Start the engine. Hold the engine speed at 3,000 rpm without load (in Park or neutral) until the
radiator fan comes on. 2. Test-drive the vehicle on a level road: Decelerate (with the throttle fully
closed) from an engine speed of 2,500 rpm down to 1,000 rpm with the
3. Test-drive the vehicle on a level road: Decelerate (with the throttle fully closed) from an engine
speed of 5,000 rpm down to 3,000 rpm with the
1. Disconnect the ignition coil connectors (A), then remove the ignition coils (B).
NO - Replace the fuse. If the fuse continues to blow, locate and repair the short in the circuit
between the under-hood fuse/relay box and the ignition coils.
2. Remove the ignition coil relay from the under-hood fuse/relay box, and test it.
YES - Go to step 3.
3. Measure the voltage between ignition coil relay 4P socket terminal No. 2 and body ground, then
terminal No. 4 and body ground.
YES - Go to step 4.
4. Check for continuity between each ignition coil relay 4P socket terminal No. 1 and the each
ignition coil 3P connector terminal No. 3.
Is there continuity?
YES - Go to step 5.
NO - Repair open in the wire between ignition coil relay 4P socket terminal No. 1 and ignition coil
3P connector terminal No. 3.
5. Check for continuity between each ignition coil 3P connector terminal No. 2 and the body
ground.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Ignition Relay > Component Information >
Testing and Inspection > Ignition Coil Relay Circuit > Page 4050
Is there continuity?
YES - Go to step 6.
NO - Repair open in the wire between ignition coil 3P connector terminal No. 2 and the body
ground.
6. Connect the Honda Diagnostic System (HDS) to the data link connector (DLC). 7. Turn the
ignition switch to ON (II). 8. Make sure the HDS communicates with the vehicle and the engine
control module (ECM)/powertrain control module (PCM). If it doesn't
9. Jump the SCS line with the HDS, then turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0).
NOTE: This step must be done to protect the ECM/PCM from damage.
10. Disconnect ECM/PCM connector A (44P). 11. Check for continuity between ignition coil relay
4P socket terminal No. 3 and body ground.
Is there continuity?
YES - Repair short in the wire between ignition coil relay 4P socket terminal No. 3 and the
ECM/PCM (A6).
NO - Go to step 12.
12. Check for continuity between ignition coil relay 4P socket terminal No. 3 and ECM/PCM
connector terminal A6.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Ignition Relay > Component Information >
Testing and Inspection > Ignition Coil Relay Circuit > Page 4051
Is there continuity?
YES - The system is OK at this time. Check for loose or poor connections at the ignition coil relay
and the ECM/PCM (A6).
NO - Repair open in the wire between ignition coil relay 4P socket terminal No. 3 and the
ECM/PCM (A6).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Ignition Relay > Component Information >
Testing and Inspection > Ignition Coil Relay Circuit > Page 4052
Ignition Relay: Testing and Inspection Power Relay
Use this chart to identify the type of relay, then do the test listed for it.
Normally-open type
- There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when battery positive terminal
is connected to the No. 4 terminal, and battery negative terminal is connected to the No. 3 terminal.
- There should be no continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power is
disconnected.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Knock Sensor > Component Information >
Locations
Knock Sensor
The knock control system adjusts the ignition timing to minimize knock.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Knock Sensor > Component Information >
Locations > Page 4059
1. Remove the intake manifold. 2. Disconnect the knock sensor 1P connector (A).
3. Remove the knock sensor (B). 4. Install the parts in the reverse order of removal.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Relays and Modules - Ignition System > Ignition
Relay > Component Information > Locations
NO - Replace the fuse. If the fuse continues to blow, locate and repair the short in the circuit
between the under-hood fuse/relay box and the ignition coils.
2. Remove the ignition coil relay from the under-hood fuse/relay box, and test it.
YES - Go to step 3.
3. Measure the voltage between ignition coil relay 4P socket terminal No. 2 and body ground, then
terminal No. 4 and body ground.
YES - Go to step 4.
4. Check for continuity between each ignition coil relay 4P socket terminal No. 1 and the each
ignition coil 3P connector terminal No. 3.
Is there continuity?
YES - Go to step 5.
NO - Repair open in the wire between ignition coil relay 4P socket terminal No. 1 and ignition coil
3P connector terminal No. 3.
5. Check for continuity between each ignition coil 3P connector terminal No. 2 and the body
ground.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Relays and Modules - Ignition System > Ignition
Relay > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Ignition Coil Relay Circuit > Page 4069
Is there continuity?
YES - Go to step 6.
NO - Repair open in the wire between ignition coil 3P connector terminal No. 2 and the body
ground.
6. Connect the Honda Diagnostic System (HDS) to the data link connector (DLC). 7. Turn the
ignition switch to ON (II). 8. Make sure the HDS communicates with the vehicle and the engine
control module (ECM)/powertrain control module (PCM). If it doesn't
9. Jump the SCS line with the HDS, then turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0).
NOTE: This step must be done to protect the ECM/PCM from damage.
10. Disconnect ECM/PCM connector A (44P). 11. Check for continuity between ignition coil relay
4P socket terminal No. 3 and body ground.
Is there continuity?
YES - Repair short in the wire between ignition coil relay 4P socket terminal No. 3 and the
ECM/PCM (A6).
NO - Go to step 12.
12. Check for continuity between ignition coil relay 4P socket terminal No. 3 and ECM/PCM
connector terminal A6.
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Relay > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Ignition Coil Relay Circuit > Page 4070
Is there continuity?
YES - The system is OK at this time. Check for loose or poor connections at the ignition coil relay
and the ECM/PCM (A6).
NO - Repair open in the wire between ignition coil relay 4P socket terminal No. 3 and the
ECM/PCM (A6).
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Relay > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Ignition Coil Relay Circuit > Page 4071
Ignition Relay: Testing and Inspection Power Relay
Use this chart to identify the type of relay, then do the test listed for it.
Normally-open type
- There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when battery positive terminal
is connected to the No. 4 terminal, and battery negative terminal is connected to the No. 3 terminal.
- There should be no continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power is
disconnected.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Sensors and Switches - Ignition System >
Camshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Locations
The CMP sensor detects the position of the No. 1 cylinder as a reference for sequential fuel
injection to each cylinder.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Sensors and Switches - Ignition System >
Camshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Service and Repair > CMP Sensor Replacement
1. Remove the cowl cover and under-cowl panel. 2. Disconnect the CMP sensor 3P connector (A).
3. Remove the CMP sensor (B). 4. Install the parts in the reverse order of removal with a new
O-ring (C).
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Camshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Service and Repair > CMP Sensor Replacement > Page 4081
Camshaft Position Sensor: Service and Repair CMP Pulse Plate Removal and Installation
Removal
1. Remove the air cleaner assembly. 2. Remove the air cleaner housing bracket (A), then remove
the harness holder (B) from the cylinder head.
3. Remove the rocker arm assembly. 4. Remove the camshaft thrust cover.
5. Hold the camshaft with a 27 mm open-end wrench, then loosen the bolt.
2. Hold the camshaft with a 27 mm open-end wrench, then tighten the bolt.
3. Install the camshaft thrust cover (A) with a new O-ring (B).
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4. Install the rocker arm assembly. 5. Install the harness holder (A) on the cylinder head, then
install the air cleaner housing bracket (B).
The CKP sensor detects crankshaft speed and is used by the PCM to determine ignition timing and
timing for fuel injection of each cylinder as well as detecting engine misfire.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Sensors and Switches - Ignition System >
Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Locations > Page 4090
Crankshaft Position Sensor: Service and Repair
1. Remove the splash shield; 2-door, 4-door. 2. Disconnect the CKP sensor 3P connector (A).
3. Remove the CKP sensor (B). 4. Install the parts in the reverse order of removal with a new
O-ring (C). 5. Do the CKP pattern clear/CKP pattern learn procedure below.
1. Connect the HDS to the data link connector (DLC) (A) located under the driver's side of the
dashboard.
2. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). 3. Make sure the HDS communicates with the ECM/PCM and
other vehicle systems. If it doesn't, go to the DLC circuit troubleshooting. See:
4. Select CRANK PATTERN in the ADJUSTMENT MENU with the HDS. 5. Select CRANK
PATTERN LEARNING with the HDS, and follow the screen prompts.
1. Start the engine. Hold the engine speed at 3,000 rpm without load (in Park or neutral) until the
radiator fan comes on. 2. Test-drive the vehicle on a level road: Decelerate (with the throttle fully
closed) from an engine speed of 2,500 rpm down to 1,000 rpm with the
3. Test-drive the vehicle on a level road: Decelerate (with the throttle fully closed) from an engine
speed of 5,000 rpm down to 3,000 rpm with the
Circuit Schematics
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Ignition Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4099
Circuit Schematics
Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show
current flow, from power at the top of the diagram, to ground at the bottom.
Shared Circuits
Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that
connects one circuit to another, for example, is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it
pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or
component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring, check the operation of a
component it serves. If that component works, you know the shared wiring is OK.
Connectors
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Ignition Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4100
All in-line and junction connectors are numbered (C725, C416, etc.). Component connectors are
not numbered but are identified either by the name of the component if the component only has
one connector, or by a capital letter (A, B, C, etc.) if the component has more than one connector.
Below most connector numbers and component names are PHOTO and VIEW numbers. The
PHOTO number refers to a photo at Vehicle Level Locations that shows the connector's location on
the car. The VIEW number refers to an connector view at the Vehicle Level Connector Views that
shows the connector terminals, wire colors, connector cavity numbers, and other details.
The connector cavity numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector as seen
from either of the viewpoints. Except for the DLC (data link connector), disregard any numbers
molded into the connector housing.
Wires
Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the
stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number "2" next to the male
and female wire terminals at C554, for example, means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector
C554.
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the vehicle. Refer to the Power Distribution Diagram Set to get a more detailed
understanding of how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on. Individual circuit
schematics begin with a fuse. So if Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another
circuit share a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good
and power is available to the inoperative circuit.
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share the same
ground point.
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Ignition Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4105
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Ignition Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4106
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Ignition Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4107
How to Identify Connector Terminals
Connector terminals are numbered according to the cavities they are in. The cavities are numbered
starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side or looking at the
female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the
same. All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not
the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the
connector face.
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Ignition Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4108
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown above is #6.
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Ignition Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4109
The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice
connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for
all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement
terminal availability.
On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged,
replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If
any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it.
Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the
wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the
terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to
make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a
factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS.
Use the tools from Pin Tool Set. First, check the connector that you are about to repair.
- If it has a secondary terminal lock, go to Connectors With a Secondary Lock. A secondary lock,
found on most connectors on some models, is an additional locking device on the connector
housing as a backup for the primary lock on the terminal.
- If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock.
All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the
secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the
connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities.
EXAMPLE A:
EXAMPLE B:
EXAMPLE C:
EXAMPLE D:
2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW
TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE E:
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1. Remove the secondary locks.
2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW
TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE F:
3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of
connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary
in size and shape.
EXAMPLE A:
EXAMPLE B:
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Ignition Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4115
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE C:
EXAMPLE D:
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Ignition Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4116
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE E:
EXAMPLE F:
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Ignition Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4117
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE G:
1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct
replacement terminal based on the wire size range
NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part
number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available
through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures.
2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool.
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Ignition Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4118
3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the
wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from
the kit.)
NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did,
cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again.
4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the
anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown
in step 3.
6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact.
- If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool
over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the
stops make contact.
- If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully
squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape.
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Ignition Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4119
8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the following NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and
start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the
way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure
10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector.
Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too
short or when access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair.
On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged,
replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If
any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it.
1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from
Pin Tool Set.
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Ignition Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4120
2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal,
then strip about half of the insulation off that piece.
This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal.
NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will
not nick or cut off any strands of wires.
3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and
same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit
onto the stripped end of the original wire.
5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the
pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more
than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at
the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the
harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make
each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail.
7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends
of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue
NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the
stripper.
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8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the
flare begins), and close the crimper handles far
enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click,
squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open.
9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the
wire all the way into the splice connector, and
squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until
the ratchet clicks again.
10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After
crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the
connector.
12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire(s), and shield them with
nonflammable material.
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13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the
gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat
evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete
when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube.
NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun.
Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the
wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size)
splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select
the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in
quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures.
Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the
Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching
connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body.
1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector.
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2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool.
NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal
because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit.
3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal
with a replacement terminal from the appropriate
Five-Step Troubleshooting
Five-Step Troubleshooting
Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint.
Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
problem area.
Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by
tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground (certain
circuits contain a "How the Circuit Works" Diagram set). Also, trace circuits that share wiring with
the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on,
are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step
1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used
only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely
cause.
Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more
possible causes.
Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple
procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to
make tests at points that are easily accessible.
Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe
procedures.
Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire
problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure
no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur.
Test Equipment
Test Equipment
CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
1O-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up
of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to
various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is
voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital
volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is
between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM).
In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low
resistance means good continuity.
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Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a
reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is
affecting the measurement.
To order any test equipment shown, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool
numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin.
Jumper Wire
Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder
connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire
across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse.
To order any test equipment shown, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool
numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin.
Troubleshooting Precautions
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION: -
Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
- Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles.
2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part
Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place.
CAUTION: -
Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
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- Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-mega
ohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that
contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
Troubleshooting Tests
Troubleshooting Tests
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt
ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest
"OHMS" range.
2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you
want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end.
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4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or
no reading (zero), means good continuity.
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem. Circuits must be operating when checking
voltage drop.
1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts
range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage
is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM
voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
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Ignition Switch: Connector Views
Test
SRS components are located in the area. Review the SRS component locations and precautions
and procedures before performing repairs or servicing.
1. Make sure you have the anti-theft code for the audio system or the navigation system (if
equipped), then write down the audio presets. Make sure
2. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 3. Remove the driver's dashboard lower cover, and the
steering column covers. 4. Disconnect the 7P connector (A) from the ignition switch (B).
5. Check for continuity between the terminals in each switch position according to the table.
6. If the continuity checks do not agree with the table, replace the ignition switch. 7. After
reconnecting the battery, enter the anti-theft code for the audio system or the navigation system (if
equipped), then enter the audio presets.
Replacement
SRS components are located in the area. Review the SRS component locations and precautions
and procedures before performing repairs or servicing.
1. Make sure you have the anti-theft code for the audio system or the navigation system (if
equipped), then write down the audio presets. Make sure
2. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 3. Remove the driver's dashboard lower cover, and the
steering column covers. 4. Disconnect the 7P connector (A) from the ignition switch (B).
5. Remove the two screws and the ignition switch. 6. Install in the reverse order of removal. 7. After
reconnecting the battery, enter the anti-theft code for the audio system or the navigation system (if
equipped), then enter the audio presets.
Knock Sensor
The knock control system adjusts the ignition timing to minimize knock.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Sensors and Switches - Ignition System > Knock
Sensor > Component Information > Locations > Page 4136
1. Remove the intake manifold. 2. Disconnect the knock sensor 1P connector (A).
3. Remove the knock sensor (B). 4. Install the parts in the reverse order of removal.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Spark Plug > Component Information >
Specifications
Spark Plug: Specifications
Torque .................................................................................................................................................
...................................... 25 N.m (2.5 kgf.m, 18 lbf.ft)
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Spark Plug > Component Information >
Specifications > Page 4140
Spark Plug: Application and ID
Spark Plugs
NGK: ....................................................................................................................................................
................................................................ IFR7F8DS
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Spark Plug > Component Information >
Specifications > Page 4141
Spark Plug: Testing and Inspection
1. Remove the spark plugs and inspect the electrodes and ceramic insulator.
- Insufficient cooling
2. If the spark plug electrode is dirty or contaminated, clean the electrode with a plug cleaner.
NOTE: -
Do not use a wire brush or scrape the iridium electrode since this will damage the electrode.
- When using a sand blaster spark plug cleaner, do not clean for more than 20 seconds to avoid
damaging the electrode.
4. Replace the plug at the specified interval, or if the center electrode is rounded (A). Use only the
spark plugs as listed.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Spark Plug > Component Information >
Specifications > Page 4142
5. Apply a small amount of anti-seize compound to the plug threads, and screw the plugs into the
cylinder head, finger-tight. Torque them to 25 N-m
1. Connect the HDS to the DLC (A) located behind the driver's dashboard lower cover.
2. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). Make sure the HDS communicates with the PCM. If it does
not, go to the DLC circuit troubleshooting. 3. Select Clutch Pressure Control (Linear) Solenoid
Valve A in the Miscellaneous Test Menu with the HDS. 4. Test A/T clutch pressure control solenoid
valve A with the HDS.
^ If the valve tests OK, the test is complete. Disconnect the HDS.
^ If the valve does not test OK, follow the instructions on the HDS.
^ If the valve does not test OK, and the HDS does not determine the cause, go to step 5.
5. Remove the air cleaner assembly and the intake air duct. 6. Remove the mounting bolts
securing the harness cover (A), and remove the harness clamp (B).
7. Disconnect the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A connector (A).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Actuators and Solenoids -
Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Pressure Regulating Solenoid, A/T > Component
Information > Testing and Inspection > A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve A Test > Page 4153
8. Measure the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A resistance at the connector terminals.
Standard: 3 - 10 ohms
^ If the resistance is out of standard, replace A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A.
9. Connect a jumper wire from the negative battery terminal to A/T clutch pressure control solenoid
valve A connector terminal No. 2, and connect
another jumper wire from the positive battery terminal to connector terminal No. 1.
^ If a clicking sound is heard, the valve is OK. Reconnect the connector, and install all removed
parts.
10. Remove the mounting bolts and A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A.
11. Remove the ATF pipe (B), the ATF joint pipes (C), the O-rings (D), and the gasket (E). 12.
Check the fluid passage of the solenoid valve for contamination. 13. Connect a jumper wire from
the negative battery terminal to A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A connector terminal No.
2, and connect
another jumper wire from the positive battery terminal to connector terminal No. 1. Make sure A/T
clutch pressure control solenoid valve A moves.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Actuators and Solenoids -
Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Pressure Regulating Solenoid, A/T > Component
Information > Testing and Inspection > A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve A Test > Page 4154
14. Disconnect one of the jumper wires and check the valve movement at the fluid passage in the
valve body mounting surface. If the valve binds or
moves sluggishly, or if the solenoid valve does not operate, replace A/T clutch pressure control
solenoid valve A.
15. Clean the mounting surfaces and fluid passages of the solenoid valve body and the
transmission housing. 16. Install a new gasket with the blue side down and the white side up on the
transmission housing, and install the ATF pipe and the ATF joint pipes. 17. Install new O-rings over
the ATF joint pipes. 18. Install A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A. 19. Check the
connectors for rust, dirt, or oil, clean or repair if necessary, then connect the connectors securely.
20. Secure the harness cover with the mounting bolts, and install the harness clamp. 21. Install the
intake air duct and the air cleaner assembly.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Actuators and Solenoids -
Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Pressure Regulating Solenoid, A/T > Component
Information > Testing and Inspection > A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve A Test > Page 4155
Pressure Regulating Solenoid: Testing and Inspection A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve
B Test
A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve B Test
1. Connect the HDS to the DLC (A) located behind the driver's dashboard lower cover.
2. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). Make sure the HDS communicates with the PCM. If it does
not, go to the DLC circuit troubleshooting. 3. Select Clutch Pressure Control (Linear) Solenoid
Valve B in the Miscellaneous Test Menu with the HDS. 4. Test A/T clutch pressure control solenoid
valve B with the HDS.
^ If the valve tests OK, the test is complete. Disconnect the HDS.
^ If the valve does not test OK, follow the instructions on the HDS.
^ If the valve does not test OK, and the HDS does not determine the cause, go to step 5.
5. Remove the air cleaner assembly and the intake air duct. 6. Remove the mounting bolts
securing the, harness cover (A), and remove the harness clamp (B).
7. Disconnect the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve B connector (A).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Actuators and Solenoids -
Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Pressure Regulating Solenoid, A/T > Component
Information > Testing and Inspection > A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve A Test > Page 4156
8. Measure the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve B resistance at the connector terminals.
Standard: 3 - 10 ohms
^ If the resistance is out of standard, replace A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve B.
9. Connect a jumper wire from the negative battery terminal to A/T clutch pressure control solenoid
valve B connector terminal No. 2, and connect
another jumper wire from the positive battery terminal to connector terminal No. 1.
^ If a clicking sound is heard, the valve is OK. Reconnect the connector, and install all removed
parts.
11. Remove the ATF pipe (A), the ATF joint pipes (D), the O-rings (E), and the, gasket (F) 12.
Check the fluid passage of the solenoid valve for contamination. 13. Connect a jumper wire from
the negative battery terminal to A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve B connector terminal No.
2, and connect
another jumper wire from the positive battery terminal to connector terminal No. 1. Make sure A/T
clutch pressure control solenoid valve B moves.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Actuators and Solenoids -
Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Pressure Regulating Solenoid, A/T > Component
Information > Testing and Inspection > A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve A Test > Page 4157
14. Disconnect one of the jumper wires and check the valve movement at the fluid passage in the
valve body mounting surface. If the valve binds or
moves sluggishly, or if the solenoid valve does not operate, replace A/T clutch pressure control
solenoid valves B and C.
15. Clean the mounting surfaces and fluid passages of the solenoid valve body and the
transmission housing. 16. Install a new gasket with the blue side down and the white side up on the
transmission housing. 17. Install the ATF pipe and the ATF joint pipes, and install new O-rings over
the ATF joint pipes. 18. Install A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valves B and C. 19. Check the
A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve B and C connectors for rust, dirt, or oil, then connect the
connectors securely. 20. Secure the harness cover with the mounting bolts, and install the harness
clamp. 21. Install the intake air duct and the air cleaner assembly.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Actuators and Solenoids -
Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Pressure Regulating Solenoid, A/T > Component
Information > Testing and Inspection > A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve A Test > Page 4158
Pressure Regulating Solenoid: Testing and Inspection A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve
C Test
A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve C Test
1. Connect the HDS to the DLC (A) located behind the driver's dashboard lower cover.
2. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). Make sure the HDS communicates with the PCM. If it does
not, go to the DLC circuit troubleshooting. 3. Select Clutch Pressure Control (Linear) Solenoid
Valve C in the Miscellaneous Test Menu on the HDS. 4. Test A/T clutch pressure control solenoid
valve C with the HDS.
^ If the valve tests OK, the test is complete. Disconnect the HDS.
^ If the valve does not test OK, follow the instructions on the HDS.
^ If the valve does not test OK, and the HDS does not determine the cause, go to step 5.
5. Remove the air cleaner assembly and the intake air duct. 6. Remove the mounting bolts
securing the harness cover (A), and remove the harness clamp (B).
7. Disconnect the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve C connector (A).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Actuators and Solenoids -
Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Pressure Regulating Solenoid, A/T > Component
Information > Testing and Inspection > A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve A Test > Page 4159
8. Measure the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve C resistance at the connector terminals.
Standard: 3 - 10 ohms
^ If the resistance is out of standard, replace A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve C.
9. Connect a jumper wire from the negative battery terminal to A/T clutch pressure control solenoid
valve C connector terminal No. 2, and connect
another jumper wire from the positive battery terminal to connector terminal No. 1.
^ If a clicking sound is heard, the valve is OK. Reconnect the connector, and install all removed
parts.
11. Remove the ATF pipe (A), the ATF joint pipes (D), the O-rings (E), and the gasket (F) 12.
Check the fluid passage of the solenoid valve for contamination. 13. Connect a jumper wire from
the negative battery terminal to A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve C connector terminal No.
2, and connect
another jumper wire from the positive battery terminal to connector terminal No. 1. Make sure A/T
clutch pressure control solenoid valve C moves.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Actuators and Solenoids -
Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Pressure Regulating Solenoid, A/T > Component
Information > Testing and Inspection > A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve A Test > Page 4160
14. Disconnect one of the jumper wires and check the valve movement at the fluid passage in the
valve body mounting surface. If the valve binds or
moves sluggishly, or if the solenoid valve does not operate, replace A/T clutch pressure control
solenoid valves B and C.
15. Clean the mounting surfaces and fluid passages of the solenoid valve body and the
transmission housing. 16. Install a new gasket with the blue side down and the white side up on the
transmission housing. 17. Install the ATF pipe and the ATF joint pipes, and install new O-rings over
the ATF joint pipes. 18. Install A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valves B and C. 19. Check the
A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve B and C connectors for rust, dirt, or oil, then connect the
connectors securely. 20. Secure the harness cover with the mounting bolts, and install the harness
clamp. 21. Install the intake air duct and the air cleaner assembly.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Actuators and Solenoids -
Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Pressure Regulating Solenoid, A/T > Component
Information > Service and Repair > A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve A Replacement
Pressure Regulating Solenoid: Service and Repair A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve A
Replacement
A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve A Replacement
1. Remove the air cleaner assembly and the intake air duct. 2. Remove the mounting bolts
securing the harness cover (A), and remove the harness clamp (B).
3. Disconnect the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A connector. 4. Remove the mounting
bolts and A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A.
5. Remove the ATF pipe (B), the ATF joint pipes (C), the O-rings (D), and the gasket (E). 6. Check
the fluid passage of the transmission housing for dust or dirt, and clean the passage. 7. Install a
new gasket with the blue side down and the white side up on the transmission housing, and install
the ATF pipe and the ATF joint pipes. 8. Install new O-rings over the ATF joint pipes. 9. Install a
new A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A.
10. Check the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A connector for rust, dirt, or oil, then
connect the connector securely. 11. Secure the harness cover with the mounting bolts, and install
the harness clamp. 12. Install the intake air duct and the air cleaner assembly.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Actuators and Solenoids -
Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Pressure Regulating Solenoid, A/T > Component
Information > Service and Repair > A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve A Replacement > Page 4163
Pressure Regulating Solenoid: Service and Repair A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve B
and C Replacement
A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve B and C Replacement
1. Remove the air cleaner assembly and the intake air duct. 2. Remove the mounting bolts
securing the harness cover (A), and remove the harness clamp (D).
3. Disconnect the connectors from A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve B and C. 4. Remove
A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve B and C.
5. Remove the ATF pipe (A), the ATF joint pipes (D), the O-rings (E), and the gasket (F) 6. Clean
the mounting surface and the fluid passages of the transmission housing. 7. Install a new gasket
with the blue side down and the white side up on the transmission housing. 8. Install the ATF pipe
and the ATF joint pipes, and install new O-rings over the ATF joint pipes. 9. Install a new A/T clutch
pressure control solenoid valve B and C.
10. Check the A/T. clutch pressure control, solenoid valve B and C connectors for rust, dirt, or oil,
then connect the connectors securely. 11. Secure the harness cover with the mounting bolts, and
install the harness clamp. 12. Install the intake air duct and the air cleaner assembly.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Actuators and Solenoids -
Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Shift Interlock Solenoid > Component Information >
Locations > Component Locations
1. Remove the shift lever assembly. 2. Remove the shift lock solenoid connector. 3. Release the
shift lock solenoid lock (A), then remove the shift lock solenoid (B).
4. Replace the shift lock solenoid (A), solenoid plunger (B), and plunger spring (C) assembly.
5. Apply silicone grease to the tip (D) of the shift lock stop (E), and install a new shift lock solenoid
assembly by aligning the joint of the shift lock
6. Route the shift lock solenoid harness in the guide, and install the connector (F) on the bracket
base. 7. Install the shift lever assembly.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Actuators and Solenoids -
Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Shift Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Locations
1. Connect the HDS to the DLC (A) located behind the driver's dashboard lower cover.
2. Make sure the HDS communicates with the PCM. If it does not, go to the DLC circuit
troubleshooting. 3. Select Shift Solenoid Valve A, B, C, and D Test in the Miscellaneous Test Menu
on the HDS. 4. Check that shift solenoid valve A, B, C, and D operate with the HDS. A clicking
sound should be heard.
^ If a clicking-sound is heard, the valves are OK. The test is complete, disconnect the HDS.
5. Raise the vehicle on a lift, or apply the parking brake, block rear wheels, and raise the front of
the vehicle. Make sure it is securely supported. 6. Remove the splash shield. 7. Disconnect the
shift solenoid harness connector.
8. Measure the shift solenoid valve resistance between the shift solenoid harness connector
terminals below and body ground:
Standard: 12 - 25 ohms
^ If the resistance is within the standard, go to step 9 and check solenoid valve for a clicking sound.
9. Connect a jumper wire from the battery positive terminal to each shift solenoid harness
connector terminals individually. A clicking sound should
be heard.
^ If a clicking sound is heard, the valves are OK. The test is complete, connect the connector.
^ If no clicking sound is heard, go to step 10 and test the shift solenoid harness.
10. Remove the drain plug (A), and drain the automatic transmission fluid (ATF).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Actuators and Solenoids -
Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Shift Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Locations >
Page 4178
11. Reinstall the drain plug with a new sealing washer (B). 12. Remove the shift solenoid valve
cover (A), the dowel pins (B), the gasket (C), and the harness clamp bracket (D).
13. Disconnect the connectors from shift solenoid valve A, shift solenoid valve B, shift solenoid
valve C, and shift solenoid valve D.
14. Measure the resistance of each solenoid valve between the connector terminal and body
ground.
Standard: 12 - 25 ohms
^ If the resistance is out of standard, go to step 17 and replace the shift solenoid valve.
^ If the resistance is within the standard, go to step 15 and check the solenoid valve for a clicking
sound.
15. Connect a jumper wire from the positive battery terminal to each solenoid terminal individually.
17. Remove the mounting bolts, then hold the shift solenoid valve body and remove the solenoid
valves. Do not hold the connector to remove the
solenoid valve.
18. Install new O-rings (two O-rings per solenoid valve) (E) on the reused solenoid valve.
NOTE: A new solenoid valve comes with new O-rings. If you install a new solenoid valve, use the
O-rings provided on it.
19. Install shift solenoid valve D (black connector) and shift solenoid valve C (brown connector) by
holding the shift solenoid valve body; make sure
NOTE: Do not hold the solenoid valve by the connector when installing the solenoid valve. Be sure
to hold the solenoid valve body.
20. Install shift solenoid valve B (black connector) by holding the shift solenoid valve body; make
sure the mounting bracket contacts the servo body. 21. Install shift solenoid valve A (brown
connector) by holding the shift solenoid valve body; make sure the mounting bracket contacts the
bracket of
NOTE: Do not install shift solenoid valve A before installing shift solenoid valve B. If shift solenoid
valve A is installed before installing shift solenoid valve B, it may damage to hydraulic control
system.
23. Install the shift solenoid valve cover, the dowel pins, a new gasket, and the harness clamp
bracket.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Actuators and Solenoids -
Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Shift Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Locations >
Page 4180
24. Check the connector for rust, dirt, or oil, then connect the connector securely. 25. Refill the
transmission with ATF. 26. Install the splash shield.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Actuators and Solenoids -
Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Shift Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Locations >
Page 4181
1. Raise the vehicle on a lift, or apply the parking brake, block rear wheels, and raise the front of
the vehicle. Make sure it is securely supported. 2. Remove the splash shield. 3. Remove the drain
plug (A), and drain the automatic transmission fluid (ATF).
4. Reinstall the drain plug with a new sealing washer (B). 5. Remove the shift solenoid valve cover
(A), the dowel pins (B), the gasket (C), and the harness clamp bracket (D).
^ If replacing the shift solenoid harness, remove the shift solenoid harness connector (A), and
replace it. Install a new O-ring (B) on the new shift solenoid harness connector, and install it in the
transmission housing, then go to step 12.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Actuators and Solenoids -
Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Shift Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Locations >
Page 4182
7. Remove the mounting bolts, then hold the shift solenoid valve body and remove the solenoid
valves. Do not hold the connector to remove the
solenoid valve.
8. Install new O-rings (two O-rings per solenoid valve) (E) on the solenoid valve.
NOTE: A new solenoid valve comes with new O-rings. If you install a new solenoid valve, use the
O-rings provided on it.
9. Install shift solenoid valve D (black connector) and shift solenoid valve C (brown connector) by
holding the shift solenoid valve body; make sure
NOTE: Do not hold the solenoid valve by the connector when installing the solenoid valve. Be sure
to hold the solenoid valve body.
10. Install shift solenoid valve B (black connector) by holding the shift solenoid valve body; make
sure the mounting bracket contacts the servo body. 11. Install shift solenoid valve A (brown
connector) by holding the shift solenoid valve body; make sure the mounting bracket contacts the
bracket of
NOTE: Do not install shift solenoid valve A before installing shift solenoid valve B. If shift solenoid
valve A is installed before installing shift solenoid valve B, it may damage to hydraulic control
system.
13. Install the shift solenoid valve cover, the dowel pins, a new gasket, and the harness clamp
bracket. 14. Check the connector for rust, dirt, or oil, then connect the connector securely. 15. Refill
the transmission with ATF. 16. Install the splash shield.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Lamps and Indicators -
Transmission and Drivetrain > Lamps and Indicators - A/T > Shift Indicator > Component Information > Locations
Shared Circuits
Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that
connects one circuit to another, for example, is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it
pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or
component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring, check the operation of a
component it serves. If that component works, you know the shared wiring is OK.
Connectors
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Lamps and Indicators -
Transmission and Drivetrain > Lamps and Indicators - A/T > Shift Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 4191
All in-line and junction connectors are numbered (C725, C416, etc.). Component connectors are
not numbered but are identified either by the name of the component if the component only has
one connector, or by a capital letter (A, B, C, etc.) if the component has more than one connector.
Below most connector numbers and component names are PHOTO and VIEW numbers. The
PHOTO number refers to a photo at Vehicle Level Locations that shows the connector's location on
the car. The VIEW number refers to an connector view at the Vehicle Level Connector Views that
shows the connector terminals, wire colors, connector cavity numbers, and other details.
The connector cavity numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector as seen
from either of the viewpoints. Except for the DLC (data link connector), disregard any numbers
molded into the connector housing.
Wires
Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the
stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number "2" next to the male
and female wire terminals at C554, for example, means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector
C554.
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the vehicle. Refer to the Power Distribution Diagram Set to get a more detailed
understanding of how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on. Individual circuit
schematics begin with a fuse. So if Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another
circuit share a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good
and power is available to the inoperative circuit.
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share the same
ground point.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Lamps and Indicators -
Transmission and Drivetrain > Lamps and Indicators - A/T > Shift Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 4193
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Lamps and Indicators -
Transmission and Drivetrain > Lamps and Indicators - A/T > Shift Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 4194
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Lamps and Indicators -
Transmission and Drivetrain > Lamps and Indicators - A/T > Shift Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 4195
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Lamps and Indicators -
Transmission and Drivetrain > Lamps and Indicators - A/T > Shift Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 4196
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Lamps and Indicators -
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Information and Instructions > Page 4197
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
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Transmission and Drivetrain > Lamps and Indicators - A/T > Shift Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 4198
How to Identify Connector Terminals
How to Identify Connector Terminals
Connector terminals are numbered according to the cavities they are in. The cavities are numbered
starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side or looking at the
female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the
same. All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not
the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the
connector face.
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Transmission and Drivetrain > Lamps and Indicators - A/T > Shift Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 4199
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown above is #6.
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Information and Instructions > Page 4200
The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice
connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for
all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement
terminal availability.
On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged,
replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If
any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it.
Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the
wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the
terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to
make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a
factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS.
Use the tools from Pin Tool Set. First, check the connector that you are about to repair.
- If it has a secondary terminal lock, go to Connectors With a Secondary Lock. A secondary lock,
found on most connectors on some models, is an additional locking device on the connector
housing as a backup for the primary lock on the terminal.
- If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock.
All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the
secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the
connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities.
EXAMPLE A:
2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW
TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE E:
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Information and Instructions > Page 4204
1. Remove the secondary locks.
2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW
TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE F:
All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of
connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary
in size and shape.
EXAMPLE A:
EXAMPLE B:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Lamps and Indicators -
Transmission and Drivetrain > Lamps and Indicators - A/T > Shift Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 4206
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE C:
EXAMPLE D:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Lamps and Indicators -
Transmission and Drivetrain > Lamps and Indicators - A/T > Shift Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 4207
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE E:
EXAMPLE F:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
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Transmission and Drivetrain > Lamps and Indicators - A/T > Shift Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 4208
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE G:
1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct
replacement terminal based on the wire size range
NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part
number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available
through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures.
2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool.
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Transmission and Drivetrain > Lamps and Indicators - A/T > Shift Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 4209
3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the
wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from
the kit.)
NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did,
cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again.
4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the
anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown
in step 3.
6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact.
- If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool
over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the
stops make contact.
- If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully
squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape.
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Transmission and Drivetrain > Lamps and Indicators - A/T > Shift Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 4210
8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the following NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and
start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the
way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure
10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector.
Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too
short or when access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair.
On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged,
replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If
any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it.
1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from
Pin Tool Set.
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Information and Instructions > Page 4211
2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal,
then strip about half of the insulation off that piece.
This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal.
NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will
not nick or cut off any strands of wires.
3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and
same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit
onto the stripped end of the original wire.
5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the
pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more
than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at
the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the
harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make
each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail.
7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends
of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue
NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the
stripper.
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Transmission and Drivetrain > Lamps and Indicators - A/T > Shift Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 4212
8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the
flare begins), and close the crimper handles far
enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click,
squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open.
9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the
wire all the way into the splice connector, and
squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until
the ratchet clicks again.
10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After
crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the
connector.
12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire(s), and shield them with
nonflammable material.
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Transmission and Drivetrain > Lamps and Indicators - A/T > Shift Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 4213
13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the
gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat
evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete
when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube.
NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun.
Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the
wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size)
splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select
the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in
quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures.
Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the
Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching
connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body.
1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector.
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Transmission and Drivetrain > Lamps and Indicators - A/T > Shift Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 4214
2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool.
NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal
because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit.
3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal
with a replacement terminal from the appropriate
Five-Step Troubleshooting
Five-Step Troubleshooting
Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint.
Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
problem area.
Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by
tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground (certain
circuits contain a "How the Circuit Works" Diagram set). Also, trace circuits that share wiring with
the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on,
are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step
1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used
only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely
cause.
Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more
possible causes.
Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple
procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to
make tests at points that are easily accessible.
Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe
procedures.
Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire
problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure
no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur.
Test Equipment
Test Equipment
CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
1O-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up
of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to
various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is
voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital
volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is
between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM).
In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low
resistance means good continuity.
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Transmission and Drivetrain > Lamps and Indicators - A/T > Shift Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 4215
Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a
reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is
affecting the measurement.
To order any test equipment shown, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool
numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin.
Jumper Wire
Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder
connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire
across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse.
To order any test equipment shown, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool
numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin.
Troubleshooting Precautions
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION: -
Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
- Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles.
2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part
Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place.
CAUTION: -
Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
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Transmission and Drivetrain > Lamps and Indicators - A/T > Shift Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 4216
- Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-mega
ohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that
contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
Troubleshooting Tests
Troubleshooting Tests
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt
ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest
"OHMS" range.
2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you
want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end.
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Information and Instructions > Page 4217
4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or
no reading (zero), means good continuity.
Testing for Voltage Drop
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem. Circuits must be operating when checking
voltage drop.
1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts
range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage
is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM
voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
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Transmission and Drivetrain > Lamps and Indicators - A/T > Shift Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 4218
160. A/T Gear Position Indicator Panel Light/Park Pin Switch (A/T)
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Information and Instructions > Page 4219
^ Honda interface module (HIM) and an iN workstation with HDS and CM update software
NOTE: ^
Use this procedure when you need to update the PCM during troubleshooting procedures.
^ Make sure HDS/HIM has the latest software version downloaded from the iN (interactive
network).
^ To ensure the latest program is installed, do a PCM update whenever the PCM is substituted or
replaced.
^ You cannot update a PCM with the program it already has. It will only accept a new program.
^ Before you update the PCM, make sure the battery is fully charged, and connect a jumper battery
(not a battery charger) to maintain system voltage.
^ Never turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0) while updating the PCM. If you turn the ignition switch
to LOCK (0) before completion, the PCM can be damaged.
^ To prevent PCM damage, do not operate anything electrical (audio system, brakes, A/C, power
windows, moon roof (if equipped), door locks, etc.) during the update.
^ If you need to diagnose the Honda interface module (HIM) because the HIM's red 3) light came
on or was flashing during the update, leave the ignition switch in the ON (II) position when you
disconnect the HIM from the data link connector (DLC). This will prevent PCM damage.
^ High temperature in the engine compartment might cause the PCM to become too hot to run the
update. If the engine has been running before this procedure, open the hood and cool the engine
compartment.
1. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), but do not start the engine. 2. Connect the HDS to the DLC
(A) located behind the driver's dashboard lower cover.
3. Make sure the HDS communicates with the PCM. if it does not, go to the DLC circuit
troubleshooting. 4. Select the INSPECTION MENU with the HDS. 5. Select the ETCS TEST, then
select the TP POSITION CHECK, and follow the HDS screen prompts.
6. Exit the HDS, then select the CM update, and follow the screen prompts to update the PCM. 7. If
the PCM has the latest software, disconnect the HDS/HIM from the DLC, and go back to the
procedure that you were doing. If the software in
the PCM is not the latest, follow the instructions on the screen. If prompted to choose the PGM-FI
system or the A/T system, make sure you update both.
NOTE: If the PCM update procedure requires you to cool the PCM, follow the screen prompts. If
you run into a problem (programming takes over 15 minutes, status bar goes over 100 D or
immobilizer indicator flashes, HDS tablet freezes, etc.) during the update procedure, follow these
steps to minimize the chance of damaging the PCM:
^ Reconnect the HDS to the DLC, and try the update procedure again.
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Inspection > Pinout Values and Diagnostic Parameters > Page 4230
8. If the TP POSITION CHECK failed in step 5, clean the throttle body. 9. Do the PCM idle learn
procedure.
10. Do the crank (CKP) learn procedure.
^ Honda interface module (HIM) and an iN workstation with HDS and CM update software
Use this procedure when you need to substitute a known-good PCM during troubleshooting
procedures.
1. Make sure you have the anti-theft code for the audio system or the navigation system (if
equipped), then write down the audio presets. 2. Connect the HDS to the DLC (A) located behind
the driver's dashboard lower cover.
3. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 4. Make sure the HDS communicates with the PCM. If it does
not, go to the DLC circuit troubleshooting. If you did the DLC circuit troubleshooting,
skip steps 5 thru 9, then clean the throttle body after substituting the PCM.
5. Select the INSPECTION MENU with the HDS. 6. Select the TP POSITION CHECK in the ETCS
TEST with the HDS.
7. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). 8. Remove the battery. 9. Remove the PCM cover (A).
10. Remove the bolts (D), and remove the PCM (E).
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Inspection > Pinout Values and Diagnostic Parameters > Page 4231
NOTE: PCM connectors A, B, and C have symbols (A = square, B = triangle, C = circle) embossed
on them for identification.
12. Install the PCM and the battery in the reverse order of removal. 13. Turn the ignition switch to
ON (II).
NOTE: DTC P0630 "VIN not Programmed or Mismatch" will be stored because VIN has not been
programmed into the PCM. Ignore it, and continue this procedure.
14. Input the VIN to the PCM with the HDS. 15. Update the PCM if it does not have the latest
software. 16. Select the IMMOBILIZER SYSTEM with the HDS. 17. Enter the immobilizer code with
the PCM replacement procedure in the HDS; this allows you to start the engine. 18. Reset the PCM
with the HDS. 19. If the TP POSITION CHECK indicates FAILED in step 6, clean the throttle body.
20. Do the PCM idle learn procedure. See: How to Update the PCM 21. Do the crank (CKP) learn
procedure. 22. Enter the anti-theft code for the audio system or the navigation system (if equipped),
enter the audio presets. Set the clock (on vehicles without
navigation).
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Relays and Modules -
Transmission and Drivetrain > Relays and Modules - A/T > Shift Interlock Control Module > Component Information >
Locations
171. Shift Lock Solenoid Cut Relay And Start Relay (Honda Accessory: Canada A/T)
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Sensors and Switches -
Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - A/T > Fluid Pressure Sensor/Switch, A/T > Component Information >
Locations
Fluid Pressure Sensor/Switch: Service and Repair 2nd Clutch Transmission Fluid Pressure Switch,
Replacement
2nd Clutch Transmission Fluid Pressure Switch, Replacement
1. Remove the air cleaner assembly and the intake air duct. 2. Remove the harness clamp (A) from
its bracket, and remove the air cleaner housing bracket (B).
3. Disconnect the 2nd clutch transmission fluid pressure switch connector, and remove the 2nd
clutch transmission fluid pressure switch (A).
4. Make sure there is no water, oil, dust, or foreign particles inside the connectors. 5. Install a new
2nd clutch transmission fluid pressure switch with a new sealing washer (B), and tighten the switch
to the specified torque by turning
6. Connect the connector securely. 7. Install the air cleaner housing bracket, and install the
harness clamp on its bracket. 8. Install the intake air duct and the air cleaner assembly.
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Service and Repair > 2nd Clutch Transmission Fluid Pressure Switch, Replacement > Page 4248
Fluid Pressure Sensor/Switch: Service and Repair 3rd Clutch Transmission Fluid Pressure Switch
Replacement
1. Raise the vehicle on a lift, or apply the parking brake, block the rear wheels, and raise the front
of the vehicle. Make sure it is securely supported. 2. Remove the splash shield. 3. Disconnect the
3rd clutch transmission fluid pressure switch connector, then remove the 3rd clutch transmission
fluid pressure switch (A).
4. Make sure there is no water, oil, dust, or foreign particles inside the connector. 5. Install a new
3rd clutch transmission fluid pressure switch with a new sealing washer (B), and tighten the switch
to the specified torque by turning
160. A/T Gear Position Indicator Panel Light/Park Pin Switch (A/T)
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Sensors and Switches -
Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component
Information > Locations
1. Remove the air cleaner assembly and the intake air duct. 2. Disconnect the transmission range
switch harness connector (A).
3. Check for continuity between terminals at the harness connector. There should be continuity
between the terminals in the following table for each
switch position.
4. Transmission range switch test is completed if the test results are OK.
5. Raise the vehicle on a lift, or apply the parking brake, block the rear wheels, and raise the front
of the vehicle. Make sure it is securely supported. 6. Remove the transmission range switch cover.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Sensors and Switches -
Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component
Information > Locations > Page 4263
7. Disconnect the transmission range switch connector.
8. Check for continuity between terminals at the switch connector. There should be continuity
between the terminals in the following table for each
switch position.
9. If the transmission range switch test is OK, replace the faulty transmission range switch harness.
10. Remove the transmission range switch, and check the end of the selector control shaft (A).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
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Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component
Information > Locations > Page 4264
11. If the measurement at the end of the selector control shaft end is within the standard, replace
the transmission range switch. If the measurement is
out of the standard, repair the selector control shaft end, and recheck the transmission range
switch continuity.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Sensors and Switches -
Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component
Information > Locations > Page 4265
Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: Service and Repair
Transmission Range Switch Replacement
1. Raise the vehicle on a lift, or apply the parking brake, block the rear wheels, and raise the front
of the vehicle. Make sure it is securely supported. 2. Shift the shift lever to N. 3. Remove the
transmission range switch cover.
5. Make sure the selector control shaft is in the N position. If necessary, move the shift lever to the
N position from the P position.
6. Align the cutouts (A) on the rotary-frame with the neutral positioning cutouts (B) on the
transmission range switch (C), then put a 2.0 mm (0.08
in.) feeler gauge blade (D) in the cutouts to hold the switch in the N position.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Sensors and Switches -
Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component
Information > Locations > Page 4266
7. Install the transmission range switch (A) gently on the selector control shaft (B) while holding it in
the N position with the 2.0 mm (0.08 in.) blade
(C).
8. Tighten the bolts on the transmission range switch while you continue holding the N position. Do
not move the transmission range switch when
9. Check the connectors for rust, dirt, or oil, clean or repair if necessary, then connect the
connector securely.
10. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). Move the shift lever through all positions, and check the
transmission range switch synchronization with the
11. Check that the engine will start in P and N, and will not start in any other shift lever position. 12.
Check that the back-up lights come on when the shift lever is in R. 13. Allow the front wheels to
rotate freely, then start the engine, and check the shift lever operation. 14. Install the transmission
range switch cover.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Sensors and Switches -
Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component
Information > Locations > Page 4267
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Sensors and Switches -
Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Speed Sensor, A/T > Component Information >
Locations
Transmission Speed Sensor: Service and Repair Input Shaft (Mainshaft) Speed Sensor
Replacement
Input Shaft (Mainshaft) Speed Sensor Replacement
1. Remove the air cleaner assembly and the intake air duct. 2. Remove the harness clamp (A) from
its bracket, and remove the air cleaner housing bracket (B).
3. Disconnect the input shaft (mainshaft) speed sensor connector, and remove the input shaft
(mainshaft) speed sensor (A).
4. Install a new O-ring (B) on the new input shaft (mainshaft) speed sensor, then install the input
shaft (mainshaft) speed sensor in the transmission
housing.
5. Check the connector for rust, dirt, or oil, then connect the connector securely. 6. Install the air
cleaner housing bracket, and install the harness clamp on its bracket. 7. Install the intake air duct
and the air cleaner assembly.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Sensors and Switches -
Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Speed Sensor, A/T > Component Information >
Service and Repair > Input Shaft (Mainshaft) Speed Sensor Replacement > Page 4278
Transmission Speed Sensor: Service and Repair Output Shaft (Countershaft) Speed Sensor
Replacement
1. Remove the air cleaner assembly and the intake air duct. 2. Disconnect the output shaft
(countershaft) speed sensor connector, and remove the output shaft (countershaft) speed sensor
(A).
3. Install a new O-ring (B) on a new output shaft (countershaft) speed sensor, then install the
output shaft (countershaft) speed sensor in the
transmission housing.
4. Check the connector for rust, dirt, or oil, then connect the connector securely. 5. Install the intake
air duct and the air cleaner assembly.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Sensors and Switches -
Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Temperature Sensor/Switch, A/T > Component
Information > Locations
1. Raise the vehicle on a lift, or apply the parking brake, block the rear wheels, and raise the front
of the vehicle. Make sure it is securely supported. 2. Remove the splash shield. 3. Disconnect the
shift solenoid harness connector.
4. Measure the ATF temperature sensor resistance between shift solenoid harness connector
terminals No. 6 and No. 7.
5. If the resistance is out of standard, go to step 6, and replace the ATF temperature sensor and
solenoid harness. The ATF temperature sensor is not
^ If the resistance is within the standard, the test is complete, connect the connector securely, and
install the splash shield.
6. Remove the drain plug (A), and drain the automatic transmission fluid (ATF).
7. Reinstall the drain plug with a new sealing washer (B). 8. Remove the shift solenoid valve cover
(A), the dowel pins (B), the gasket (C), and the harness clamp bracket (D).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
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Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Temperature Sensor/Switch, A/T > Component
Information > Locations > Page 4284
9. Remove the shift solenoid harness connector (E), and replace it.
10. Install a new O-ring (F) on a new shift solenoid harness connector, and install the connector in
the transmission housing. 11. Connect WHT harnesses and ORN harness connector to shift
solenoid valve B. ATF temperature sensor is assembled in the connector with WHT
harnesses.
13. Install the shift solenoid valve cover, the dowel pins, a new gasket, and the harness clamp
bracket. 14. Check the connector for rust, dirt, or oil, then connect the connector securely. 15. Refill
the transmission with ATF. 16. Install the splash shield.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
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Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Temperature Sensor/Switch, A/T > Component
Information > Locations > Page 4285
Transmission Temperature Sensor/Switch: Service and Repair
ATF Temperature Sensor Test/Replacement
1. Raise the vehicle on a lift, or apply the parking brake, block the rear wheels, and raise the front
of the vehicle. Make sure it is securely supported. 2. Remove the splash shield. 3. Disconnect the
shift solenoid harness connector.
4. Measure the ATF temperature sensor resistance between shift solenoid harness connector
terminals No. 6 and No. 7.
5. If the resistance is out of standard, go to step 6, and replace the ATF temperature sensor and
solenoid harness. The ATF temperature sensor is not
^ If the resistance is within the standard, the test is complete, connect the connector securely, and
install the splash shield.
6. Remove the drain plug (A), and drain the automatic transmission fluid (ATF).
7. Reinstall the drain plug with a new sealing washer (B). 8. Remove the shift solenoid valve cover
(A), the dowel pins (B), the gasket (C), and the harness clamp bracket (D).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
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Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Temperature Sensor/Switch, A/T > Component
Information > Locations > Page 4286
9. Remove the shift solenoid harness connector (E), and replace it.
10. Install a new O-ring (F) on a new shift solenoid harness connector, and install the connector in
the transmission housing. 11. Connect WHT harnesses and ORN harness connector to shift
solenoid valve B. ATF temperature sensor is assembled in the connector with WHT
harnesses.
13. Install the shift solenoid valve cover, the dowel pins, a new gasket, and the harness clamp
bracket. 14. Check the connector for rust, dirt, or oil, then connect the connector securely. 15. Refill
the transmission with ATF. 16. Install the splash shield.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Sensors and Switches -
Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - M/T > Transmission Speed Sensor, M/T > Component Information >
Diagrams
(Supersedes 07-062, dated September 19, 2007, to update the information marked by the black
bars)
REVISION SUMMARY
SYMPTOM
The A/C cools poorly during hard acceleration under 20 mph. This symptom is usually noticed in
stop-and-go traffic.
PROBABLE CAUSE
When accelerating at speeds below 20 mph with the accelerator pedal more than halfway down,
the ECM/ PCM turns off the A/C compressor.
CORRECTIVE ACTION
NOTE:
The software update minimizes the symptom, but it does not completely eliminate it. The customer
can improve A/C performance by accelerating from speeds below 20 mph with the accelerator
pedal less than halfway down.
SOFTWARE INFORMATION
Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request
consideration, and get a decision, before starting work.
REPAIR PROCEDURE
Update the PGM-FI software with the HDS. Refer to Service Bulletin 01-023, Updating Control
Units/Modules.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 08-003 > Feb > 08 > A/T - Update PCM When Replacing
A/T
PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory: Customer Interest A/T - Update PCM When Replacing
A/T
08-003
BACKGROUND
Repeatedly shifting between R and D at high wheel speed when stuck in snow can cause
transmission damage. To help prevent this damage, update the PCM anytime you replace an NT.
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Update the PGM and the NT systems of the PCM with the HDS (Honda Diagnostic System).
VEHICLES AFFECTED
Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request
consideration, and get a decision, before starting work.
SOFTWARE INFORMATION
NOTE:
If you do not use the correct HDS sofiware version, the HDS may incorrectly indicate that the
vehicle does not need an update.
REPAIR PROCEDURE
1. Make sure version 2.012.013 or later sofiware iN network CD is loaded into the iN master
terminal.
2. Update both the PGM and AT systems of the PCM with the HDS. Refer to Service Bulletin
01-023, Updathg Control Units/Modules.
3. Connect the HDS to the vehicle's DLC (data link connector). Use the HDS to clear any body
electrical codes that may have been set during the PCM update.
4. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0), and then to ON (II). Use the HDS to see if any body
electrical codes have returned.
^ If the codes have returned, do the appropriate troubleshooting procedure(s) in the 2006-2008
Civic Service Manual, then go to step 5.
^ Make sure all electrical accessories (A/C, radio, lights, etc.) are off.
^ Start the engine, and let it run until it reaches normal operating temperature (the cooling fans
cycle twice).
Disclaimer
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory: >
01-023 > Apr > 10 > Computers/Controls - Updating Control Units And Modules
PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory: All Technical Service Bulletins Computers/Controls -
Updating Control Units And Modules
01-023
(Supersedes 01-023, dated May 15, 2009, to revise the information marked by the black bars and
asterisks)
REVISION SUMMARY
The procedures in this service bulletin are used and referenced in other service bulletins.
Most 2002 and later Hondas have reprogrammable control units/modules. To update (reprogram)
any of these control units/modules, you need the vehicle you're working on and one of these
systems:
*^MVCI unit with latest control module (CM) update software installed*
^ GNA600 gateway device and an iN workstation with the latest HDS software installed
^ Who to contact for questions or problems when using Honda-supplied updating equipment or the
iN.
- MVCI
- GNA600
- HDS Tablet
- HIM
^ Updating with the HDS Tablet and the HDS Pocket Tester
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^ Updating with the HIM
- HIM Updating in Pass-Thru Mode
- HIM Self-Test
NOTE:
Whenever you install a new, reprogrammable control unit/module, check that it has the latest
software, and update it if needed.
Refer to the specific service bulletin for the symptom you are repairing.
For questions about the Honda-supplied updating equipment, call American Honda's Special Tools
hotline.
NOTE:
Updating for most control units/modules can be done with any of the following tools.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
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Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory: >
01-023 > Apr > 10 > Computers/Controls - Updating Control Units And Modules > Page 4311
*MVCI: (Available through the Honda Tool and Equipment Program)*
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Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory: >
01-023 > Apr > 10 > Computers/Controls - Updating Control Units And Modules > Page 4312
GNA600: (No longer available for purchase)
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Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory: >
01-023 > Apr > 10 > Computers/Controls - Updating Control Units And Modules > Page 4313
HDS Tablet:
HDS Pocket Tester:
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Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory: >
01-023 > Apr > 10 > Computers/Controls - Updating Control Units And Modules > Page 4314
HIM:
UPDATING TIPS AND PRECAUTIONS
^ If you're updating a control module/unit on a new vehicle, make sure all its fuses were installed at
PDI.
^ To prevent control unit/module damage, do not operate anything electrical (audio system, brakes,
A/C, power windows, moonroof, etc.) during the
update.
^ Make sure the HDS Tablet, the HDS Pocket Tester, or the iN workstation has the latest version of
HDS software. The HDS version number is on the
HDS start-up screen. To find the latest HDS software information on ISIS, select Search by
Vehicle, select Technical Library, expand the ServiceNews branch, select Keyword (All Models),
enter keywords HDS VERSION, then select the latest article.
NOTE:
The screen is from an iN workstation. The HDS tablet and pocket tester screens are similar.
*^Make sure the Database Update listed in a Honda service communication (service bulletin,
product update, iN message, etc.) is the same or earlier
than the ones listed on the Reprogramming screen of the MVCI (on the MVCI, select CM Update
Mode, then select Reprogramming), or on the
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Updating Honda Control Modules screen on the HDS tablet, the HDS pocket tester, or the iN
workstation.
MVCI:*
iN Workstation:
NOTE:
*^If the Database Update listed in the service bulletin is later than that shown by the software,
please see the the procedures for software installation in
the following documents in Tool Information on ISIS (go to General Publications, then Tool
Information):
- Installation Instructions for HDS ( see PC Software for the GNA600, HIM or Pocket Tester ID)*
^ Do not connect an additional power supply to the updating equipment when it is connected to the
vehicle; power is supplied through the DLC.
^ To ensure that the control module/unit is not permanently damaged during updating, vedfy that
the vehicle's 12-volt battery is fully charged before
starthg an update.
NOTE:
If the vehicle's 12-volt battery drops below 10 volts during the update, the programming status bar
may go past 100 percent, or the updating tool may display an error message.
^ If you have a problem during an update (D4/ immobilizer indicator flashes, update tool freezes,
etc.), you can minimize the chances of damaging the
- Reconnect the updating tool to the vehicle's DLC, and retry the updating procedure.
Make sure you have the latest control module (CM) Update software loaded from your HDS PC to
your MVC I. For loading instructions and other
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Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory: >
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details, refer to the MVCI User Guide on ISIS. The Database Update version appears when you
select Reprogramming, then press ENTER.
1. Connect the DLC cable to the MVCI and to the vehicle's DLC.
2. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). The MVCI automatically boots up.
3. Press the ENTER button on the MVCI to see the User Config menu. Select CM Update Mode.
NOTE:
Setting 1-
For more information on these settings, refer to the MVCI User Guide.
6. Wait for the MVCI to check the vehicle for reprogrammable systems. This may take up to 90
seconds.
7. If there are multiple reprogrammable systems that need to be updated, select the applicable
system. Press ENTER to continue, or press ESC to exit.
8. The current program ID, the recommended update, and other details appear. Press ENTER to
continue, or press ESC to exit.
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9. Wait for the MVCI to copy the data for updating the vehicle.
10. After the MVCI has copied the files, a confirmation screen appears. Press ENTER to update
the control unit/module, or press ESC to exit.
12. After the MVCI finishes updating the control uniti module, turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0)
when directed by the MVCI.
13. Turn the ignition switch back to ON (II) within 60 seconds to complete the updating procedure.
NOTE:
The MVCI has a countdown timer. If you do not turn the ignition switch to ON (II) within 60
seconds, the MVCI sets an error code.
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14. After finishing the updating procedure, the MVCI gives you the option of updating the same
system on another vehicle. For more information on
updating several vehicles, see the MVCI User Guide.
15. If an error occurs during the updating procedure, an error message appears. Keep the ignition
switch in ON (II). Press ENTER to display the error
code. Refer to the CM Update Error Code Table in the MVCI User Guide for more information
about the code and its solutions.*
NOTE:
For more information on the GNA6OO, refer to the GNA600 User's Guide. This guide is on ISIS,
under the Tool Information heading.
Pass-Thru mode and Storage mode. Use Pass-Thru mode when the GNA6OO can be connected
to an iN workstation and the vehicle at the same time. Use Storage mode when the GNA6OO
cannot be connected to the iN workstation and the vehicle at the same time.
1. If not already done, load the latest HDS PC software onto your iN workstation. For loading
instructions, refer to the Tool Information publication
3. Connect the USB PC interface cable to the iN workstation and to the GNA6OO. Click on the
Tools button on the right side of the screen, and make
4. Return to the Updating Honda Control Modules main screen, and click on Pass-th ru-Mode.
5. Connect the DLC cable to the GNA600 and to the vehicle's DLC.
6. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), and wait until the green No.2 LED on the GNA6OO stays on.
Click on the check mark to continue.
Each updatable vehicle system is checked to make sure it is current. Any systems needing an
update are listed on the screen. Highlight the system you want to update, then click on the check
mark to continue.
NOTE:
bulletin for the update you are doing. Click on Yes to continue. Within a few seconds, the CM
Update software loads the program file onto the GNA600.
9. Click on the check mark to begin the control uniti module update.
NOTE:
10. Within 60 seconds of update completion, turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0) and then back to
ON (II).
11. Once the software verifies that the control uniti mod ule has been successfully updated, click on
Yes to update another identical vehicle, or click on
1. If not already done, load the latest HDS PC software onto your iN workstation. For loading
instructions, refer to the ISIS publication Installation
NOTE:
If the latest sofiware is not loaded and you do a control unit/module update, the software may
indicate the vehicle has the latest update when it doesn't. Updates not done with the latest software
are not covered under warranty.
3. Click on the Tools button on the right side of the screen, and make sure the interface device is
set to GNA600.
4. Return to the Updating Honda Control Modules main screen, then click on Storage Mode and
follow the on-screen instructions.
5. Take the GNA600 to the vehicle. Connect the DLC cable to the GNA600 and to the vehicle's
DLC.
6. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), and wait until the green No.2 LED on the GNA6OO stays on.
Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0), and
7. Connect the USB PC interface cable to the iN workstation and to the GNA6OO. Connect the
power supply unit and power supply cord to the
GNA600. The GNA600 does a self-check and, after about 30 seconds, its yellow No.1 and green
No.2 LEDs flash.
Each updatable vehicle system is checked to make sure it is current. Any systems needing an
update are listed on the screen. Highlight the system you want to update, then click on the check
mark to continue.
NOTE:
bulletin for the update you are doing. Click on Yes to continue. Within a few seconds, the CM
Update software loads the program file onto the GNA600.
10. Disconnect the GNA600 from the USB PC interface cable, then connect the trigger switch
adapter block (yellow) and the trigger switch to the
GNA600 as shown below. (The DLC cable should still be connected to the GNA600.)
12. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), and wait until the green No.2 LED on the GNA600 stays on.
Press and release the trigger switch button.
13. The yellow No.1 LED blinks, and the green No.2 LED stays on. This indicates that the control
uniti module is being updated.
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NOTE:
To avoid control unit/module damage, do not interrupt the update.
14. When the No.1 LED stays on and the No.2 LED goes off, turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0).
15. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). When the No.1 and No.2 LEDs stay on, the control
unit/module is updated.
16. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0), and disconnect the DLC cable from the vehicle. To do the
same update on an identical vehicle, repeat steps
11 thru 16.
UPDATING WITH THE HDS TABLET AND THE HDS POCKET TESTER
NOTE:
This procedure explains how to update with the HDS tablet. Updating with the HDS pocket tester is
similar, but the user interface is modified to fit its smaller screen.
1. If not already done, load the latest HDS PC sofiware onto your HDS tablet or HDS pocket tester.
Refer to the instructions included with the HDS
Installation Disc.
NOTE:
If the latest sofiware is not loaded and you do a control unit/module update, the software may
indicate the vehicle has the latest update when it doesn't. Updates not done with the latest software
are not covered under warranty.
Each updatable vehicle system is checked to make sure it is current. Any systems needing an
update are listed on the screen. Highlight the system you want to update, then click on the check
mark to continue.
NOTE:
4. Verify that the Program ID and the Program Part No. are correct, then click on the check mark.
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5. Confirm the control module update by Program ID and Program Part No. Make sure this
corresponds with any information provided in the service
bulletin for the update you are doing. Click on Yes to continue. Within a few seconds, the CM
Update sofiware loads the program file onto the HDS tablet.
6. In the HDS Tablet Programming screen, click on the check mark after programming is
completed.
7. In the Updating Honda Control Modules screen, click on the check mark.
NOTE:
To avoid permanent control module damage, do not turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0) during the
update.
8. When updating is complete, follow the screen prompts to turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0),
and then to ON (II). To update another system, return
to the Updating Honda Control Modules screen by clicking on the exit button on the right side of the
screen.
Two updating modes can be used with the HIM: Pass-Thru mode and Storage mode. Pass-Thru
mode is used when the HIM can be connected to an iN workstation and the vehicle at the same
time. Storage mode is used when the HIM cannot be connected to the iN workstation and the
vehicle at the same time.
If the red No.3 LED on the HIM comes on or flashes during the update, go to Diagnosing HIM Error
Codes.
1. If not already done, load the latest HDS PC software onto your iN workstation. For loading
instructions, refer to the Tool Information publication
NOTE:
If the latest software is not loaded and you do a control unit/module update, the software may
indicate the vehicle has the latest update when it doesn't. Updates not done with the latest software
are not covered under warranty.
4. Return to the Updating Honda Control Modules main screen, and click on Pass-thru-Mode.
6. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), and wait until the green No.1 LED on the HIM stays on. Click
on the check mark to continue.
Each updatable vehicle system is checked to make sure it is current. Any systems needing an
update are listed on the screen. Highlight the system you want to update, then click on the check
mark to continue.
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01-023 > Apr > 10 > Computers/Controls - Updating Control Units And Modules > Page 4328
NOTE:
Update the systems one at a time.
7. Verify that the Program ID and the Program Part No. are for the vehicle you are updating, then
click on the check mark.
8. Confirm the control module update by Program ID and Program Part No. Make sure this
corresponds with any information provided in the service
bulletin for the update you are doing. Click on Yes to continue. Within a few seconds, the CM
Update sofiware loads the program file onto the HIM.
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01-023 > Apr > 10 > Computers/Controls - Updating Control Units And Modules > Page 4329
9. Click on the check mark to begin the control unit/module update.
NOTE:
10. Within 60 seconds of update completion, turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0) and then back to
ON (II).
11. Once the software verifies that the control unit/module has been successfully updated, click on
Yes to update another identical vehicle, or click on
NOTE:
If the red No.3 on the HIM comes on or flashes during the update, go to Diagnosing HIM Error
Codes.
1. If not already done, load the latest HDS PC software onto your iN workstation. For loading
instructions, refer to the Tool Information publication
NOTE:
If the latest sofiware is not loaded and you do a control unit/module update, the software may
indicate the vehicle has the latest update when it doesn't. Updates not done with the latest software
are not covered under warranty.
3. Click on the tools button on the right side of the screen, and make sure the interface device is
set to HIM.
4. Return to the Updating Honda Control Modules main screen, then select Storage Mode and
follow the on-screen instructions.
5. Take the HIM to the vehicle, and connect it to the vehicle's DLC.
6. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), and wait until the green No.1 LED on the HIM stays on. Turn
the ignition switch to LOCK (0), and disconnect
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the HIM from the vehicle.
7. Connect the PC interface cable to the iN workstation and to the HIM. Connect the power supply
unit and power supply cord to the HIM. After
Each updatable vehicle system is checked to make sure it is current. Any systems needing an
update are listed on the screen. Highlight the system you want to update, then click on the check
mark to continue.
NOTE:
8. Verify that the Program ID and the Program Part No. are correct, then click on the check mark.
9. Confirm the control module update by Program ID and Program Part No. Make sure this
corresponds with any information provided in the service
bulletin for the update you are doing. Click on Yes to continue. Within a few seconds, the CM
Update software loads the program file onto the HIM.
12. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), and wait until the green No.1 LED on the HIM stays on.
Press and release the ENTER button on the HIM.
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13. The green No.1 LED stays on, and the yellow No. 2 LED blinks. This indicates that the control
uniti module is being updated.
NOTE:
14. When the yellow No.2 LED stays on, turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0).
15. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). When the green No.1 and the yellow No.2 LEDs stay on, the
control unit/module is updated.
16. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0), and disconnect the HIM from the vehicle. To do the same
update on an identical vehicle, repeat steps 11 thru
16.
If the red No.3 LED on the HIM came on or was flashing during the update, do this:
1. Leave the ignition switch in ON (II) while you disconnect the HIM from the vehicle's DLC.
2. If not already done, load the latest HDS sofiware onto the iN workstation.
3. Connect the HIM to the iN workstation. Connect the small end of the PC interface cable to the
PC port on the HIM.
4. If not already done, connect the PC end of the blue PC interface cable to the 9P serial port on
the iN workstation.
5. Connect the 110 VACIl 2 VDC power supply to the HIM and to a wall outlet.
7. On the right side of the screen, click on the view error button.
8. Click on View Error at the bottom of the screen to display the problem encountered while the
HIM was connected to the vehicle.
^ If you get a Code 40 error message (usually caused by a communication error between the HIM
and the workstation), do this:
- Move the blue PC interface cable to another communication port on the back of the computer.
- If one of the communication ports on the back of the computer has another cable connected to it,
disconnect that cable, leave it disconnected during the HIM procedure, and connect the blue PC
interface cable to that port.
- Connect the HIM to another computer. (Some iN workstations require an internal communication
port setup procedure. For help, call the iN Support Center)
^ If you get a Code 50 error message (usually caused by a communications error between the HIM
and the vehicle's DLC), do this:
- Diagnose and clear any DTCs. (The control unit/module must be free of DTCs before you can
update it.)
- Make sure there's a good connection between the HIM and the DLC.
- Retry the update using the procedures in this service bulletin or on the back of the HIM.
HIM Self-Test
If you suspect there's a problem with the HIM, review the instructions in this service bulletin to
make sure you are using it correctly. If you still think there's a problem, do this self-test:
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1. If not already done, load the latest HDS software onto the iN workstation.
6. If the self-test indicates a problem with the HIM, call the Special Tools hotline for repair
instructions.
Disclaimer
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory: >
07-062 > Jan > 09 > Engine Controls - Poor A/C Performance On Acceleration
PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory: All Technical Service Bulletins Engine Controls - Poor
A/C Performance On Acceleration
07-062
(Supersedes 07-062, dated September 19, 2007, to update the information marked by the black
bars)
REVISION SUMMARY
SYMPTOM
The A/C cools poorly during hard acceleration under 20 mph. This symptom is usually noticed in
stop-and-go traffic.
PROBABLE CAUSE
When accelerating at speeds below 20 mph with the accelerator pedal more than halfway down,
the ECM/ PCM turns off the A/C compressor.
CORRECTIVE ACTION
NOTE:
The software update minimizes the symptom, but it does not completely eliminate it. The customer
can improve A/C performance by accelerating from speeds below 20 mph with the accelerator
pedal less than halfway down.
SOFTWARE INFORMATION
Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request
consideration, and get a decision, before starting work.
REPAIR PROCEDURE
Update the PGM-FI software with the HDS. Refer to Service Bulletin 01-023, Updating Control
Units/Modules.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory: >
08-003 > Feb > 08 > A/T - Update PCM When Replacing A/T
PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory: All Technical Service Bulletins A/T - Update PCM
When Replacing A/T
08-003
BACKGROUND
Repeatedly shifting between R and D at high wheel speed when stuck in snow can cause
transmission damage. To help prevent this damage, update the PCM anytime you replace an NT.
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Update the PGM and the NT systems of the PCM with the HDS (Honda Diagnostic System).
VEHICLES AFFECTED
Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request
consideration, and get a decision, before starting work.
SOFTWARE INFORMATION
NOTE:
If you do not use the correct HDS sofiware version, the HDS may incorrectly indicate that the
vehicle does not need an update.
REPAIR PROCEDURE
1. Make sure version 2.012.013 or later sofiware iN network CD is loaded into the iN master
terminal.
2. Update both the PGM and AT systems of the PCM with the HDS. Refer to Service Bulletin
01-023, Updathg Control Units/Modules.
3. Connect the HDS to the vehicle's DLC (data link connector). Use the HDS to clear any body
electrical codes that may have been set during the PCM update.
4. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0), and then to ON (II). Use the HDS to see if any body
electrical codes have returned.
^ If the codes have returned, do the appropriate troubleshooting procedure(s) in the 2006-2008
Civic Service Manual, then go to step 5.
^ Make sure all electrical accessories (A/C, radio, lights, etc.) are off.
^ Start the engine, and let it run until it reaches normal operating temperature (the cooling fans
cycle twice).
Disclaimer
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory: >
01-023 > Apr > 10 > Computers/Controls - Updating Control Units And Modules
PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory: All Technical Service Bulletins Computers/Controls -
Updating Control Units And Modules
01-023
(Supersedes 01-023, dated May 15, 2009, to revise the information marked by the black bars and
asterisks)
REVISION SUMMARY
The procedures in this service bulletin are used and referenced in other service bulletins.
Most 2002 and later Hondas have reprogrammable control units/modules. To update (reprogram)
any of these control units/modules, you need the vehicle you're working on and one of these
systems:
*^MVCI unit with latest control module (CM) update software installed*
^ GNA600 gateway device and an iN workstation with the latest HDS software installed
^ Who to contact for questions or problems when using Honda-supplied updating equipment or the
iN.
- MVCI
- GNA600
- HDS Tablet
- HIM
^ Updating with the HDS Tablet and the HDS Pocket Tester
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^ Updating with the HIM
- HIM Updating in Pass-Thru Mode
- HIM Self-Test
NOTE:
Whenever you install a new, reprogrammable control unit/module, check that it has the latest
software, and update it if needed.
Refer to the specific service bulletin for the symptom you are repairing.
For questions about the Honda-supplied updating equipment, call American Honda's Special Tools
hotline.
NOTE:
Updating for most control units/modules can be done with any of the following tools.
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*MVCI: (Available through the Honda Tool and Equipment Program)*
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GNA600: (No longer available for purchase)
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01-023 > Apr > 10 > Computers/Controls - Updating Control Units And Modules > Page 4351
HDS Tablet:
HDS Pocket Tester:
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HIM:
UPDATING TIPS AND PRECAUTIONS
^ If you're updating a control module/unit on a new vehicle, make sure all its fuses were installed at
PDI.
^ To prevent control unit/module damage, do not operate anything electrical (audio system, brakes,
A/C, power windows, moonroof, etc.) during the
update.
^ Make sure the HDS Tablet, the HDS Pocket Tester, or the iN workstation has the latest version of
HDS software. The HDS version number is on the
HDS start-up screen. To find the latest HDS software information on ISIS, select Search by
Vehicle, select Technical Library, expand the ServiceNews branch, select Keyword (All Models),
enter keywords HDS VERSION, then select the latest article.
NOTE:
The screen is from an iN workstation. The HDS tablet and pocket tester screens are similar.
*^Make sure the Database Update listed in a Honda service communication (service bulletin,
product update, iN message, etc.) is the same or earlier
than the ones listed on the Reprogramming screen of the MVCI (on the MVCI, select CM Update
Mode, then select Reprogramming), or on the
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Updating Honda Control Modules screen on the HDS tablet, the HDS pocket tester, or the iN
workstation.
MVCI:*
iN Workstation:
NOTE:
*^If the Database Update listed in the service bulletin is later than that shown by the software,
please see the the procedures for software installation in
the following documents in Tool Information on ISIS (go to General Publications, then Tool
Information):
- Installation Instructions for HDS ( see PC Software for the GNA600, HIM or Pocket Tester ID)*
^ Do not connect an additional power supply to the updating equipment when it is connected to the
vehicle; power is supplied through the DLC.
^ To ensure that the control module/unit is not permanently damaged during updating, vedfy that
the vehicle's 12-volt battery is fully charged before
starthg an update.
NOTE:
If the vehicle's 12-volt battery drops below 10 volts during the update, the programming status bar
may go past 100 percent, or the updating tool may display an error message.
^ If you have a problem during an update (D4/ immobilizer indicator flashes, update tool freezes,
etc.), you can minimize the chances of damaging the
- Reconnect the updating tool to the vehicle's DLC, and retry the updating procedure.
Make sure you have the latest control module (CM) Update software loaded from your HDS PC to
your MVC I. For loading instructions and other
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details, refer to the MVCI User Guide on ISIS. The Database Update version appears when you
select Reprogramming, then press ENTER.
1. Connect the DLC cable to the MVCI and to the vehicle's DLC.
2. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). The MVCI automatically boots up.
3. Press the ENTER button on the MVCI to see the User Config menu. Select CM Update Mode.
NOTE:
Setting 1-
For more information on these settings, refer to the MVCI User Guide.
6. Wait for the MVCI to check the vehicle for reprogrammable systems. This may take up to 90
seconds.
7. If there are multiple reprogrammable systems that need to be updated, select the applicable
system. Press ENTER to continue, or press ESC to exit.
8. The current program ID, the recommended update, and other details appear. Press ENTER to
continue, or press ESC to exit.
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9. Wait for the MVCI to copy the data for updating the vehicle.
10. After the MVCI has copied the files, a confirmation screen appears. Press ENTER to update
the control unit/module, or press ESC to exit.
12. After the MVCI finishes updating the control uniti module, turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0)
when directed by the MVCI.
13. Turn the ignition switch back to ON (II) within 60 seconds to complete the updating procedure.
NOTE:
The MVCI has a countdown timer. If you do not turn the ignition switch to ON (II) within 60
seconds, the MVCI sets an error code.
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14. After finishing the updating procedure, the MVCI gives you the option of updating the same
system on another vehicle. For more information on
updating several vehicles, see the MVCI User Guide.
15. If an error occurs during the updating procedure, an error message appears. Keep the ignition
switch in ON (II). Press ENTER to display the error
code. Refer to the CM Update Error Code Table in the MVCI User Guide for more information
about the code and its solutions.*
NOTE:
For more information on the GNA6OO, refer to the GNA600 User's Guide. This guide is on ISIS,
under the Tool Information heading.
Pass-Thru mode and Storage mode. Use Pass-Thru mode when the GNA6OO can be connected
to an iN workstation and the vehicle at the same time. Use Storage mode when the GNA6OO
cannot be connected to the iN workstation and the vehicle at the same time.
1. If not already done, load the latest HDS PC software onto your iN workstation. For loading
instructions, refer to the Tool Information publication
3. Connect the USB PC interface cable to the iN workstation and to the GNA6OO. Click on the
Tools button on the right side of the screen, and make
4. Return to the Updating Honda Control Modules main screen, and click on Pass-th ru-Mode.
5. Connect the DLC cable to the GNA600 and to the vehicle's DLC.
6. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), and wait until the green No.2 LED on the GNA6OO stays on.
Click on the check mark to continue.
Each updatable vehicle system is checked to make sure it is current. Any systems needing an
update are listed on the screen. Highlight the system you want to update, then click on the check
mark to continue.
NOTE:
bulletin for the update you are doing. Click on Yes to continue. Within a few seconds, the CM
Update software loads the program file onto the GNA600.
9. Click on the check mark to begin the control uniti module update.
NOTE:
10. Within 60 seconds of update completion, turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0) and then back to
ON (II).
11. Once the software verifies that the control uniti mod ule has been successfully updated, click on
Yes to update another identical vehicle, or click on
1. If not already done, load the latest HDS PC software onto your iN workstation. For loading
instructions, refer to the ISIS publication Installation
NOTE:
If the latest sofiware is not loaded and you do a control unit/module update, the software may
indicate the vehicle has the latest update when it doesn't. Updates not done with the latest software
are not covered under warranty.
3. Click on the Tools button on the right side of the screen, and make sure the interface device is
set to GNA600.
4. Return to the Updating Honda Control Modules main screen, then click on Storage Mode and
follow the on-screen instructions.
5. Take the GNA600 to the vehicle. Connect the DLC cable to the GNA600 and to the vehicle's
DLC.
6. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), and wait until the green No.2 LED on the GNA6OO stays on.
Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0), and
7. Connect the USB PC interface cable to the iN workstation and to the GNA6OO. Connect the
power supply unit and power supply cord to the
GNA600. The GNA600 does a self-check and, after about 30 seconds, its yellow No.1 and green
No.2 LEDs flash.
Each updatable vehicle system is checked to make sure it is current. Any systems needing an
update are listed on the screen. Highlight the system you want to update, then click on the check
mark to continue.
NOTE:
bulletin for the update you are doing. Click on Yes to continue. Within a few seconds, the CM
Update software loads the program file onto the GNA600.
10. Disconnect the GNA600 from the USB PC interface cable, then connect the trigger switch
adapter block (yellow) and the trigger switch to the
GNA600 as shown below. (The DLC cable should still be connected to the GNA600.)
12. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), and wait until the green No.2 LED on the GNA600 stays on.
Press and release the trigger switch button.
13. The yellow No.1 LED blinks, and the green No.2 LED stays on. This indicates that the control
uniti module is being updated.
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NOTE:
To avoid control unit/module damage, do not interrupt the update.
14. When the No.1 LED stays on and the No.2 LED goes off, turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0).
15. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). When the No.1 and No.2 LEDs stay on, the control
unit/module is updated.
16. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0), and disconnect the DLC cable from the vehicle. To do the
same update on an identical vehicle, repeat steps
11 thru 16.
UPDATING WITH THE HDS TABLET AND THE HDS POCKET TESTER
NOTE:
This procedure explains how to update with the HDS tablet. Updating with the HDS pocket tester is
similar, but the user interface is modified to fit its smaller screen.
1. If not already done, load the latest HDS PC sofiware onto your HDS tablet or HDS pocket tester.
Refer to the instructions included with the HDS
Installation Disc.
NOTE:
If the latest sofiware is not loaded and you do a control unit/module update, the software may
indicate the vehicle has the latest update when it doesn't. Updates not done with the latest software
are not covered under warranty.
Each updatable vehicle system is checked to make sure it is current. Any systems needing an
update are listed on the screen. Highlight the system you want to update, then click on the check
mark to continue.
NOTE:
4. Verify that the Program ID and the Program Part No. are correct, then click on the check mark.
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5. Confirm the control module update by Program ID and Program Part No. Make sure this
corresponds with any information provided in the service
bulletin for the update you are doing. Click on Yes to continue. Within a few seconds, the CM
Update sofiware loads the program file onto the HDS tablet.
6. In the HDS Tablet Programming screen, click on the check mark after programming is
completed.
7. In the Updating Honda Control Modules screen, click on the check mark.
NOTE:
To avoid permanent control module damage, do not turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0) during the
update.
8. When updating is complete, follow the screen prompts to turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0),
and then to ON (II). To update another system, return
to the Updating Honda Control Modules screen by clicking on the exit button on the right side of the
screen.
Two updating modes can be used with the HIM: Pass-Thru mode and Storage mode. Pass-Thru
mode is used when the HIM can be connected to an iN workstation and the vehicle at the same
time. Storage mode is used when the HIM cannot be connected to the iN workstation and the
vehicle at the same time.
If the red No.3 LED on the HIM comes on or flashes during the update, go to Diagnosing HIM Error
Codes.
1. If not already done, load the latest HDS PC software onto your iN workstation. For loading
instructions, refer to the Tool Information publication
NOTE:
If the latest software is not loaded and you do a control unit/module update, the software may
indicate the vehicle has the latest update when it doesn't. Updates not done with the latest software
are not covered under warranty.
4. Return to the Updating Honda Control Modules main screen, and click on Pass-thru-Mode.
6. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), and wait until the green No.1 LED on the HIM stays on. Click
on the check mark to continue.
Each updatable vehicle system is checked to make sure it is current. Any systems needing an
update are listed on the screen. Highlight the system you want to update, then click on the check
mark to continue.
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NOTE:
Update the systems one at a time.
7. Verify that the Program ID and the Program Part No. are for the vehicle you are updating, then
click on the check mark.
8. Confirm the control module update by Program ID and Program Part No. Make sure this
corresponds with any information provided in the service
bulletin for the update you are doing. Click on Yes to continue. Within a few seconds, the CM
Update sofiware loads the program file onto the HIM.
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9. Click on the check mark to begin the control unit/module update.
NOTE:
10. Within 60 seconds of update completion, turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0) and then back to
ON (II).
11. Once the software verifies that the control unit/module has been successfully updated, click on
Yes to update another identical vehicle, or click on
NOTE:
If the red No.3 on the HIM comes on or flashes during the update, go to Diagnosing HIM Error
Codes.
1. If not already done, load the latest HDS PC software onto your iN workstation. For loading
instructions, refer to the Tool Information publication
NOTE:
If the latest sofiware is not loaded and you do a control unit/module update, the software may
indicate the vehicle has the latest update when it doesn't. Updates not done with the latest software
are not covered under warranty.
3. Click on the tools button on the right side of the screen, and make sure the interface device is
set to HIM.
4. Return to the Updating Honda Control Modules main screen, then select Storage Mode and
follow the on-screen instructions.
5. Take the HIM to the vehicle, and connect it to the vehicle's DLC.
6. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), and wait until the green No.1 LED on the HIM stays on. Turn
the ignition switch to LOCK (0), and disconnect
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory: >
01-023 > Apr > 10 > Computers/Controls - Updating Control Units And Modules > Page 4368
the HIM from the vehicle.
7. Connect the PC interface cable to the iN workstation and to the HIM. Connect the power supply
unit and power supply cord to the HIM. After
Each updatable vehicle system is checked to make sure it is current. Any systems needing an
update are listed on the screen. Highlight the system you want to update, then click on the check
mark to continue.
NOTE:
8. Verify that the Program ID and the Program Part No. are correct, then click on the check mark.
9. Confirm the control module update by Program ID and Program Part No. Make sure this
corresponds with any information provided in the service
bulletin for the update you are doing. Click on Yes to continue. Within a few seconds, the CM
Update software loads the program file onto the HIM.
12. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), and wait until the green No.1 LED on the HIM stays on.
Press and release the ENTER button on the HIM.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory: >
01-023 > Apr > 10 > Computers/Controls - Updating Control Units And Modules > Page 4369
13. The green No.1 LED stays on, and the yellow No. 2 LED blinks. This indicates that the control
uniti module is being updated.
NOTE:
14. When the yellow No.2 LED stays on, turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0).
15. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). When the green No.1 and the yellow No.2 LEDs stay on, the
control unit/module is updated.
16. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0), and disconnect the HIM from the vehicle. To do the same
update on an identical vehicle, repeat steps 11 thru
16.
If the red No.3 LED on the HIM came on or was flashing during the update, do this:
1. Leave the ignition switch in ON (II) while you disconnect the HIM from the vehicle's DLC.
2. If not already done, load the latest HDS sofiware onto the iN workstation.
3. Connect the HIM to the iN workstation. Connect the small end of the PC interface cable to the
PC port on the HIM.
4. If not already done, connect the PC end of the blue PC interface cable to the 9P serial port on
the iN workstation.
5. Connect the 110 VACIl 2 VDC power supply to the HIM and to a wall outlet.
7. On the right side of the screen, click on the view error button.
8. Click on View Error at the bottom of the screen to display the problem encountered while the
HIM was connected to the vehicle.
^ If you get a Code 40 error message (usually caused by a communication error between the HIM
and the workstation), do this:
- Move the blue PC interface cable to another communication port on the back of the computer.
- If one of the communication ports on the back of the computer has another cable connected to it,
disconnect that cable, leave it disconnected during the HIM procedure, and connect the blue PC
interface cable to that port.
- Connect the HIM to another computer. (Some iN workstations require an internal communication
port setup procedure. For help, call the iN Support Center)
^ If you get a Code 50 error message (usually caused by a communications error between the HIM
and the vehicle's DLC), do this:
- Diagnose and clear any DTCs. (The control unit/module must be free of DTCs before you can
update it.)
- Make sure there's a good connection between the HIM and the DLC.
- Retry the update using the procedures in this service bulletin or on the back of the HIM.
HIM Self-Test
If you suspect there's a problem with the HIM, review the instructions in this service bulletin to
make sure you are using it correctly. If you still think there's a problem, do this self-test:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory: >
01-023 > Apr > 10 > Computers/Controls - Updating Control Units And Modules > Page 4370
1. If not already done, load the latest HDS software onto the iN workstation.
6. If the self-test indicates a problem with the HIM, call the Special Tools hotline for repair
instructions.
Disclaimer
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - Transmission and Drivetrain >
Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Pressure Regulating Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Locations
1. Connect the HDS to the DLC (A) located behind the driver's dashboard lower cover.
2. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). Make sure the HDS communicates with the PCM. If it does
not, go to the DLC circuit troubleshooting. 3. Select Clutch Pressure Control (Linear) Solenoid
Valve A in the Miscellaneous Test Menu with the HDS. 4. Test A/T clutch pressure control solenoid
valve A with the HDS.
^ If the valve tests OK, the test is complete. Disconnect the HDS.
^ If the valve does not test OK, follow the instructions on the HDS.
^ If the valve does not test OK, and the HDS does not determine the cause, go to step 5.
5. Remove the air cleaner assembly and the intake air duct. 6. Remove the mounting bolts
securing the harness cover (A), and remove the harness clamp (B).
7. Disconnect the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A connector (A).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - Transmission and Drivetrain >
Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Pressure Regulating Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Testing and Inspection >
A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve A Test > Page 4381
8. Measure the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A resistance at the connector terminals.
Standard: 3 - 10 ohms
^ If the resistance is out of standard, replace A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A.
9. Connect a jumper wire from the negative battery terminal to A/T clutch pressure control solenoid
valve A connector terminal No. 2, and connect
another jumper wire from the positive battery terminal to connector terminal No. 1.
^ If a clicking sound is heard, the valve is OK. Reconnect the connector, and install all removed
parts.
10. Remove the mounting bolts and A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A.
11. Remove the ATF pipe (B), the ATF joint pipes (C), the O-rings (D), and the gasket (E). 12.
Check the fluid passage of the solenoid valve for contamination. 13. Connect a jumper wire from
the negative battery terminal to A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A connector terminal No.
2, and connect
another jumper wire from the positive battery terminal to connector terminal No. 1. Make sure A/T
clutch pressure control solenoid valve A moves.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - Transmission and Drivetrain >
Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Pressure Regulating Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Testing and Inspection >
A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve A Test > Page 4382
14. Disconnect one of the jumper wires and check the valve movement at the fluid passage in the
valve body mounting surface. If the valve binds or
moves sluggishly, or if the solenoid valve does not operate, replace A/T clutch pressure control
solenoid valve A.
15. Clean the mounting surfaces and fluid passages of the solenoid valve body and the
transmission housing. 16. Install a new gasket with the blue side down and the white side up on the
transmission housing, and install the ATF pipe and the ATF joint pipes. 17. Install new O-rings over
the ATF joint pipes. 18. Install A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A. 19. Check the
connectors for rust, dirt, or oil, clean or repair if necessary, then connect the connectors securely.
20. Secure the harness cover with the mounting bolts, and install the harness clamp. 21. Install the
intake air duct and the air cleaner assembly.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - Transmission and Drivetrain >
Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Pressure Regulating Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Testing and Inspection >
A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve A Test > Page 4383
Pressure Regulating Solenoid: Testing and Inspection A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve
B Test
A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve B Test
1. Connect the HDS to the DLC (A) located behind the driver's dashboard lower cover.
2. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). Make sure the HDS communicates with the PCM. If it does
not, go to the DLC circuit troubleshooting. 3. Select Clutch Pressure Control (Linear) Solenoid
Valve B in the Miscellaneous Test Menu with the HDS. 4. Test A/T clutch pressure control solenoid
valve B with the HDS.
^ If the valve tests OK, the test is complete. Disconnect the HDS.
^ If the valve does not test OK, follow the instructions on the HDS.
^ If the valve does not test OK, and the HDS does not determine the cause, go to step 5.
5. Remove the air cleaner assembly and the intake air duct. 6. Remove the mounting bolts
securing the, harness cover (A), and remove the harness clamp (B).
7. Disconnect the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve B connector (A).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - Transmission and Drivetrain >
Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Pressure Regulating Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Testing and Inspection >
A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve A Test > Page 4384
8. Measure the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve B resistance at the connector terminals.
Standard: 3 - 10 ohms
^ If the resistance is out of standard, replace A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve B.
9. Connect a jumper wire from the negative battery terminal to A/T clutch pressure control solenoid
valve B connector terminal No. 2, and connect
another jumper wire from the positive battery terminal to connector terminal No. 1.
^ If a clicking sound is heard, the valve is OK. Reconnect the connector, and install all removed
parts.
11. Remove the ATF pipe (A), the ATF joint pipes (D), the O-rings (E), and the, gasket (F) 12.
Check the fluid passage of the solenoid valve for contamination. 13. Connect a jumper wire from
the negative battery terminal to A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve B connector terminal No.
2, and connect
another jumper wire from the positive battery terminal to connector terminal No. 1. Make sure A/T
clutch pressure control solenoid valve B moves.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - Transmission and Drivetrain >
Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Pressure Regulating Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Testing and Inspection >
A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve A Test > Page 4385
14. Disconnect one of the jumper wires and check the valve movement at the fluid passage in the
valve body mounting surface. If the valve binds or
moves sluggishly, or if the solenoid valve does not operate, replace A/T clutch pressure control
solenoid valves B and C.
15. Clean the mounting surfaces and fluid passages of the solenoid valve body and the
transmission housing. 16. Install a new gasket with the blue side down and the white side up on the
transmission housing. 17. Install the ATF pipe and the ATF joint pipes, and install new O-rings over
the ATF joint pipes. 18. Install A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valves B and C. 19. Check the
A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve B and C connectors for rust, dirt, or oil, then connect the
connectors securely. 20. Secure the harness cover with the mounting bolts, and install the harness
clamp. 21. Install the intake air duct and the air cleaner assembly.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - Transmission and Drivetrain >
Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Pressure Regulating Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Testing and Inspection >
A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve A Test > Page 4386
Pressure Regulating Solenoid: Testing and Inspection A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve
C Test
A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve C Test
1. Connect the HDS to the DLC (A) located behind the driver's dashboard lower cover.
2. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). Make sure the HDS communicates with the PCM. If it does
not, go to the DLC circuit troubleshooting. 3. Select Clutch Pressure Control (Linear) Solenoid
Valve C in the Miscellaneous Test Menu on the HDS. 4. Test A/T clutch pressure control solenoid
valve C with the HDS.
^ If the valve tests OK, the test is complete. Disconnect the HDS.
^ If the valve does not test OK, follow the instructions on the HDS.
^ If the valve does not test OK, and the HDS does not determine the cause, go to step 5.
5. Remove the air cleaner assembly and the intake air duct. 6. Remove the mounting bolts
securing the harness cover (A), and remove the harness clamp (B).
7. Disconnect the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve C connector (A).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - Transmission and Drivetrain >
Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Pressure Regulating Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Testing and Inspection >
A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve A Test > Page 4387
8. Measure the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve C resistance at the connector terminals.
Standard: 3 - 10 ohms
^ If the resistance is out of standard, replace A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve C.
9. Connect a jumper wire from the negative battery terminal to A/T clutch pressure control solenoid
valve C connector terminal No. 2, and connect
another jumper wire from the positive battery terminal to connector terminal No. 1.
^ If a clicking sound is heard, the valve is OK. Reconnect the connector, and install all removed
parts.
11. Remove the ATF pipe (A), the ATF joint pipes (D), the O-rings (E), and the gasket (F) 12.
Check the fluid passage of the solenoid valve for contamination. 13. Connect a jumper wire from
the negative battery terminal to A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve C connector terminal No.
2, and connect
another jumper wire from the positive battery terminal to connector terminal No. 1. Make sure A/T
clutch pressure control solenoid valve C moves.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - Transmission and Drivetrain >
Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Pressure Regulating Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Testing and Inspection >
A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve A Test > Page 4388
14. Disconnect one of the jumper wires and check the valve movement at the fluid passage in the
valve body mounting surface. If the valve binds or
moves sluggishly, or if the solenoid valve does not operate, replace A/T clutch pressure control
solenoid valves B and C.
15. Clean the mounting surfaces and fluid passages of the solenoid valve body and the
transmission housing. 16. Install a new gasket with the blue side down and the white side up on the
transmission housing. 17. Install the ATF pipe and the ATF joint pipes, and install new O-rings over
the ATF joint pipes. 18. Install A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valves B and C. 19. Check the
A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve B and C connectors for rust, dirt, or oil, then connect the
connectors securely. 20. Secure the harness cover with the mounting bolts, and install the harness
clamp. 21. Install the intake air duct and the air cleaner assembly.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - Transmission and Drivetrain >
Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Pressure Regulating Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Service and Repair > A/T
Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve A Replacement
Pressure Regulating Solenoid: Service and Repair A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve A
Replacement
A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve A Replacement
1. Remove the air cleaner assembly and the intake air duct. 2. Remove the mounting bolts
securing the harness cover (A), and remove the harness clamp (B).
3. Disconnect the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A connector. 4. Remove the mounting
bolts and A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A.
5. Remove the ATF pipe (B), the ATF joint pipes (C), the O-rings (D), and the gasket (E). 6. Check
the fluid passage of the transmission housing for dust or dirt, and clean the passage. 7. Install a
new gasket with the blue side down and the white side up on the transmission housing, and install
the ATF pipe and the ATF joint pipes. 8. Install new O-rings over the ATF joint pipes. 9. Install a
new A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A.
10. Check the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A connector for rust, dirt, or oil, then
connect the connector securely. 11. Secure the harness cover with the mounting bolts, and install
the harness clamp. 12. Install the intake air duct and the air cleaner assembly.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - Transmission and Drivetrain >
Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Pressure Regulating Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Service and Repair > A/T
Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve A Replacement > Page 4391
Pressure Regulating Solenoid: Service and Repair A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve B
and C Replacement
A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve B and C Replacement
1. Remove the air cleaner assembly and the intake air duct. 2. Remove the mounting bolts
securing the harness cover (A), and remove the harness clamp (D).
3. Disconnect the connectors from A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve B and C. 4. Remove
A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve B and C.
5. Remove the ATF pipe (A), the ATF joint pipes (D), the O-rings (E), and the gasket (F) 6. Clean
the mounting surface and the fluid passages of the transmission housing. 7. Install a new gasket
with the blue side down and the white side up on the transmission housing. 8. Install the ATF pipe
and the ATF joint pipes, and install new O-rings over the ATF joint pipes. 9. Install a new A/T clutch
pressure control solenoid valve B and C.
10. Check the A/T. clutch pressure control, solenoid valve B and C connectors for rust, dirt, or oil,
then connect the connectors securely. 11. Secure the harness cover with the mounting bolts, and
install the harness clamp. 12. Install the intake air duct and the air cleaner assembly.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - Transmission and Drivetrain >
Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Shift Interlock Solenoid > Component Information > Locations > Component Locations
1. Remove the shift lever assembly. 2. Remove the shift lock solenoid connector. 3. Release the
shift lock solenoid lock (A), then remove the shift lock solenoid (B).
4. Replace the shift lock solenoid (A), solenoid plunger (B), and plunger spring (C) assembly.
5. Apply silicone grease to the tip (D) of the shift lock stop (E), and install a new shift lock solenoid
assembly by aligning the joint of the shift lock
6. Route the shift lock solenoid harness in the guide, and install the connector (F) on the bracket
base. 7. Install the shift lever assembly.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - Transmission and Drivetrain >
Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Shift Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Locations
1. Connect the HDS to the DLC (A) located behind the driver's dashboard lower cover.
2. Make sure the HDS communicates with the PCM. If it does not, go to the DLC circuit
troubleshooting. 3. Select Shift Solenoid Valve A, B, C, and D Test in the Miscellaneous Test Menu
on the HDS. 4. Check that shift solenoid valve A, B, C, and D operate with the HDS. A clicking
sound should be heard.
^ If a clicking-sound is heard, the valves are OK. The test is complete, disconnect the HDS.
5. Raise the vehicle on a lift, or apply the parking brake, block rear wheels, and raise the front of
the vehicle. Make sure it is securely supported. 6. Remove the splash shield. 7. Disconnect the
shift solenoid harness connector.
8. Measure the shift solenoid valve resistance between the shift solenoid harness connector
terminals below and body ground:
Standard: 12 - 25 ohms
^ If the resistance is within the standard, go to step 9 and check solenoid valve for a clicking sound.
9. Connect a jumper wire from the battery positive terminal to each shift solenoid harness
connector terminals individually. A clicking sound should
be heard.
^ If a clicking sound is heard, the valves are OK. The test is complete, connect the connector.
^ If no clicking sound is heard, go to step 10 and test the shift solenoid harness.
10. Remove the drain plug (A), and drain the automatic transmission fluid (ATF).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - Transmission and Drivetrain >
Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Shift Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Locations > Page 4406
11. Reinstall the drain plug with a new sealing washer (B). 12. Remove the shift solenoid valve
cover (A), the dowel pins (B), the gasket (C), and the harness clamp bracket (D).
13. Disconnect the connectors from shift solenoid valve A, shift solenoid valve B, shift solenoid
valve C, and shift solenoid valve D.
14. Measure the resistance of each solenoid valve between the connector terminal and body
ground.
Standard: 12 - 25 ohms
^ If the resistance is out of standard, go to step 17 and replace the shift solenoid valve.
^ If the resistance is within the standard, go to step 15 and check the solenoid valve for a clicking
sound.
15. Connect a jumper wire from the positive battery terminal to each solenoid terminal individually.
17. Remove the mounting bolts, then hold the shift solenoid valve body and remove the solenoid
valves. Do not hold the connector to remove the
solenoid valve.
18. Install new O-rings (two O-rings per solenoid valve) (E) on the reused solenoid valve.
NOTE: A new solenoid valve comes with new O-rings. If you install a new solenoid valve, use the
O-rings provided on it.
19. Install shift solenoid valve D (black connector) and shift solenoid valve C (brown connector) by
holding the shift solenoid valve body; make sure
NOTE: Do not hold the solenoid valve by the connector when installing the solenoid valve. Be sure
to hold the solenoid valve body.
20. Install shift solenoid valve B (black connector) by holding the shift solenoid valve body; make
sure the mounting bracket contacts the servo body. 21. Install shift solenoid valve A (brown
connector) by holding the shift solenoid valve body; make sure the mounting bracket contacts the
bracket of
NOTE: Do not install shift solenoid valve A before installing shift solenoid valve B. If shift solenoid
valve A is installed before installing shift solenoid valve B, it may damage to hydraulic control
system.
23. Install the shift solenoid valve cover, the dowel pins, a new gasket, and the harness clamp
bracket.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - Transmission and Drivetrain >
Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Shift Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Locations > Page 4408
24. Check the connector for rust, dirt, or oil, then connect the connector securely. 25. Refill the
transmission with ATF. 26. Install the splash shield.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - Transmission and Drivetrain >
Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Shift Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Locations > Page 4409
1. Raise the vehicle on a lift, or apply the parking brake, block rear wheels, and raise the front of
the vehicle. Make sure it is securely supported. 2. Remove the splash shield. 3. Remove the drain
plug (A), and drain the automatic transmission fluid (ATF).
4. Reinstall the drain plug with a new sealing washer (B). 5. Remove the shift solenoid valve cover
(A), the dowel pins (B), the gasket (C), and the harness clamp bracket (D).
^ If replacing the shift solenoid harness, remove the shift solenoid harness connector (A), and
replace it. Install a new O-ring (B) on the new shift solenoid harness connector, and install it in the
transmission housing, then go to step 12.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - Transmission and Drivetrain >
Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Shift Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Locations > Page 4410
7. Remove the mounting bolts, then hold the shift solenoid valve body and remove the solenoid
valves. Do not hold the connector to remove the
solenoid valve.
8. Install new O-rings (two O-rings per solenoid valve) (E) on the solenoid valve.
NOTE: A new solenoid valve comes with new O-rings. If you install a new solenoid valve, use the
O-rings provided on it.
9. Install shift solenoid valve D (black connector) and shift solenoid valve C (brown connector) by
holding the shift solenoid valve body; make sure
NOTE: Do not hold the solenoid valve by the connector when installing the solenoid valve. Be sure
to hold the solenoid valve body.
10. Install shift solenoid valve B (black connector) by holding the shift solenoid valve body; make
sure the mounting bracket contacts the servo body. 11. Install shift solenoid valve A (brown
connector) by holding the shift solenoid valve body; make sure the mounting bracket contacts the
bracket of
NOTE: Do not install shift solenoid valve A before installing shift solenoid valve B. If shift solenoid
valve A is installed before installing shift solenoid valve B, it may damage to hydraulic control
system.
13. Install the shift solenoid valve cover, the dowel pins, a new gasket, and the harness clamp
bracket. 14. Check the connector for rust, dirt, or oil, then connect the connector securely. 15. Refill
the transmission with ATF. 16. Install the splash shield.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Actuators and Solenoids -
A/T > Pressure Regulating Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Locations
1. Connect the HDS to the DLC (A) located behind the driver's dashboard lower cover.
2. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). Make sure the HDS communicates with the PCM. If it does
not, go to the DLC circuit troubleshooting. 3. Select Clutch Pressure Control (Linear) Solenoid
Valve A in the Miscellaneous Test Menu with the HDS. 4. Test A/T clutch pressure control solenoid
valve A with the HDS.
^ If the valve tests OK, the test is complete. Disconnect the HDS.
^ If the valve does not test OK, follow the instructions on the HDS.
^ If the valve does not test OK, and the HDS does not determine the cause, go to step 5.
5. Remove the air cleaner assembly and the intake air duct. 6. Remove the mounting bolts
securing the harness cover (A), and remove the harness clamp (B).
7. Disconnect the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A connector (A).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Actuators and Solenoids -
A/T > Pressure Regulating Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > A/T Clutch Pressure Control
Solenoid Valve A Test > Page 4420
8. Measure the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A resistance at the connector terminals.
Standard: 3 - 10 ohms
^ If the resistance is out of standard, replace A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A.
9. Connect a jumper wire from the negative battery terminal to A/T clutch pressure control solenoid
valve A connector terminal No. 2, and connect
another jumper wire from the positive battery terminal to connector terminal No. 1.
^ If a clicking sound is heard, the valve is OK. Reconnect the connector, and install all removed
parts.
10. Remove the mounting bolts and A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A.
11. Remove the ATF pipe (B), the ATF joint pipes (C), the O-rings (D), and the gasket (E). 12.
Check the fluid passage of the solenoid valve for contamination. 13. Connect a jumper wire from
the negative battery terminal to A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A connector terminal No.
2, and connect
another jumper wire from the positive battery terminal to connector terminal No. 1. Make sure A/T
clutch pressure control solenoid valve A moves.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Actuators and Solenoids -
A/T > Pressure Regulating Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > A/T Clutch Pressure Control
Solenoid Valve A Test > Page 4421
14. Disconnect one of the jumper wires and check the valve movement at the fluid passage in the
valve body mounting surface. If the valve binds or
moves sluggishly, or if the solenoid valve does not operate, replace A/T clutch pressure control
solenoid valve A.
15. Clean the mounting surfaces and fluid passages of the solenoid valve body and the
transmission housing. 16. Install a new gasket with the blue side down and the white side up on the
transmission housing, and install the ATF pipe and the ATF joint pipes. 17. Install new O-rings over
the ATF joint pipes. 18. Install A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A. 19. Check the
connectors for rust, dirt, or oil, clean or repair if necessary, then connect the connectors securely.
20. Secure the harness cover with the mounting bolts, and install the harness clamp. 21. Install the
intake air duct and the air cleaner assembly.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Actuators and Solenoids -
A/T > Pressure Regulating Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > A/T Clutch Pressure Control
Solenoid Valve A Test > Page 4422
Pressure Regulating Solenoid: Testing and Inspection A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve
B Test
A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve B Test
1. Connect the HDS to the DLC (A) located behind the driver's dashboard lower cover.
2. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). Make sure the HDS communicates with the PCM. If it does
not, go to the DLC circuit troubleshooting. 3. Select Clutch Pressure Control (Linear) Solenoid
Valve B in the Miscellaneous Test Menu with the HDS. 4. Test A/T clutch pressure control solenoid
valve B with the HDS.
^ If the valve tests OK, the test is complete. Disconnect the HDS.
^ If the valve does not test OK, follow the instructions on the HDS.
^ If the valve does not test OK, and the HDS does not determine the cause, go to step 5.
5. Remove the air cleaner assembly and the intake air duct. 6. Remove the mounting bolts
securing the, harness cover (A), and remove the harness clamp (B).
7. Disconnect the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve B connector (A).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Actuators and Solenoids -
A/T > Pressure Regulating Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > A/T Clutch Pressure Control
Solenoid Valve A Test > Page 4423
8. Measure the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve B resistance at the connector terminals.
Standard: 3 - 10 ohms
^ If the resistance is out of standard, replace A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve B.
9. Connect a jumper wire from the negative battery terminal to A/T clutch pressure control solenoid
valve B connector terminal No. 2, and connect
another jumper wire from the positive battery terminal to connector terminal No. 1.
^ If a clicking sound is heard, the valve is OK. Reconnect the connector, and install all removed
parts.
11. Remove the ATF pipe (A), the ATF joint pipes (D), the O-rings (E), and the, gasket (F) 12.
Check the fluid passage of the solenoid valve for contamination. 13. Connect a jumper wire from
the negative battery terminal to A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve B connector terminal No.
2, and connect
another jumper wire from the positive battery terminal to connector terminal No. 1. Make sure A/T
clutch pressure control solenoid valve B moves.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Actuators and Solenoids -
A/T > Pressure Regulating Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > A/T Clutch Pressure Control
Solenoid Valve A Test > Page 4424
14. Disconnect one of the jumper wires and check the valve movement at the fluid passage in the
valve body mounting surface. If the valve binds or
moves sluggishly, or if the solenoid valve does not operate, replace A/T clutch pressure control
solenoid valves B and C.
15. Clean the mounting surfaces and fluid passages of the solenoid valve body and the
transmission housing. 16. Install a new gasket with the blue side down and the white side up on the
transmission housing. 17. Install the ATF pipe and the ATF joint pipes, and install new O-rings over
the ATF joint pipes. 18. Install A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valves B and C. 19. Check the
A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve B and C connectors for rust, dirt, or oil, then connect the
connectors securely. 20. Secure the harness cover with the mounting bolts, and install the harness
clamp. 21. Install the intake air duct and the air cleaner assembly.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Actuators and Solenoids -
A/T > Pressure Regulating Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > A/T Clutch Pressure Control
Solenoid Valve A Test > Page 4425
Pressure Regulating Solenoid: Testing and Inspection A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve
C Test
A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve C Test
1. Connect the HDS to the DLC (A) located behind the driver's dashboard lower cover.
2. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). Make sure the HDS communicates with the PCM. If it does
not, go to the DLC circuit troubleshooting. 3. Select Clutch Pressure Control (Linear) Solenoid
Valve C in the Miscellaneous Test Menu on the HDS. 4. Test A/T clutch pressure control solenoid
valve C with the HDS.
^ If the valve tests OK, the test is complete. Disconnect the HDS.
^ If the valve does not test OK, follow the instructions on the HDS.
^ If the valve does not test OK, and the HDS does not determine the cause, go to step 5.
5. Remove the air cleaner assembly and the intake air duct. 6. Remove the mounting bolts
securing the harness cover (A), and remove the harness clamp (B).
7. Disconnect the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve C connector (A).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Actuators and Solenoids -
A/T > Pressure Regulating Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > A/T Clutch Pressure Control
Solenoid Valve A Test > Page 4426
8. Measure the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve C resistance at the connector terminals.
Standard: 3 - 10 ohms
^ If the resistance is out of standard, replace A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve C.
9. Connect a jumper wire from the negative battery terminal to A/T clutch pressure control solenoid
valve C connector terminal No. 2, and connect
another jumper wire from the positive battery terminal to connector terminal No. 1.
^ If a clicking sound is heard, the valve is OK. Reconnect the connector, and install all removed
parts.
11. Remove the ATF pipe (A), the ATF joint pipes (D), the O-rings (E), and the gasket (F) 12.
Check the fluid passage of the solenoid valve for contamination. 13. Connect a jumper wire from
the negative battery terminal to A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve C connector terminal No.
2, and connect
another jumper wire from the positive battery terminal to connector terminal No. 1. Make sure A/T
clutch pressure control solenoid valve C moves.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Actuators and Solenoids -
A/T > Pressure Regulating Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > A/T Clutch Pressure Control
Solenoid Valve A Test > Page 4427
14. Disconnect one of the jumper wires and check the valve movement at the fluid passage in the
valve body mounting surface. If the valve binds or
moves sluggishly, or if the solenoid valve does not operate, replace A/T clutch pressure control
solenoid valves B and C.
15. Clean the mounting surfaces and fluid passages of the solenoid valve body and the
transmission housing. 16. Install a new gasket with the blue side down and the white side up on the
transmission housing. 17. Install the ATF pipe and the ATF joint pipes, and install new O-rings over
the ATF joint pipes. 18. Install A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valves B and C. 19. Check the
A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve B and C connectors for rust, dirt, or oil, then connect the
connectors securely. 20. Secure the harness cover with the mounting bolts, and install the harness
clamp. 21. Install the intake air duct and the air cleaner assembly.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Actuators and Solenoids -
A/T > Pressure Regulating Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Service and Repair > A/T Clutch Pressure Control
Solenoid Valve A Replacement
Pressure Regulating Solenoid: Service and Repair A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve A
Replacement
A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve A Replacement
1. Remove the air cleaner assembly and the intake air duct. 2. Remove the mounting bolts
securing the harness cover (A), and remove the harness clamp (B).
3. Disconnect the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A connector. 4. Remove the mounting
bolts and A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A.
5. Remove the ATF pipe (B), the ATF joint pipes (C), the O-rings (D), and the gasket (E). 6. Check
the fluid passage of the transmission housing for dust or dirt, and clean the passage. 7. Install a
new gasket with the blue side down and the white side up on the transmission housing, and install
the ATF pipe and the ATF joint pipes. 8. Install new O-rings over the ATF joint pipes. 9. Install a
new A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A.
10. Check the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A connector for rust, dirt, or oil, then
connect the connector securely. 11. Secure the harness cover with the mounting bolts, and install
the harness clamp. 12. Install the intake air duct and the air cleaner assembly.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Actuators and Solenoids -
A/T > Pressure Regulating Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Service and Repair > A/T Clutch Pressure Control
Solenoid Valve A Replacement > Page 4430
Pressure Regulating Solenoid: Service and Repair A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve B
and C Replacement
A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve B and C Replacement
1. Remove the air cleaner assembly and the intake air duct. 2. Remove the mounting bolts
securing the harness cover (A), and remove the harness clamp (D).
3. Disconnect the connectors from A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve B and C. 4. Remove
A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve B and C.
5. Remove the ATF pipe (A), the ATF joint pipes (D), the O-rings (E), and the gasket (F) 6. Clean
the mounting surface and the fluid passages of the transmission housing. 7. Install a new gasket
with the blue side down and the white side up on the transmission housing. 8. Install the ATF pipe
and the ATF joint pipes, and install new O-rings over the ATF joint pipes. 9. Install a new A/T clutch
pressure control solenoid valve B and C.
10. Check the A/T. clutch pressure control, solenoid valve B and C connectors for rust, dirt, or oil,
then connect the connectors securely. 11. Secure the harness cover with the mounting bolts, and
install the harness clamp. 12. Install the intake air duct and the air cleaner assembly.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Actuators and Solenoids -
A/T > Shift Interlock Solenoid > Component Information > Locations > Component Locations
1. Remove the shift lever assembly. 2. Remove the shift lock solenoid connector. 3. Release the
shift lock solenoid lock (A), then remove the shift lock solenoid (B).
4. Replace the shift lock solenoid (A), solenoid plunger (B), and plunger spring (C) assembly.
5. Apply silicone grease to the tip (D) of the shift lock stop (E), and install a new shift lock solenoid
assembly by aligning the joint of the shift lock
6. Route the shift lock solenoid harness in the guide, and install the connector (F) on the bracket
base. 7. Install the shift lever assembly.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Actuators and Solenoids -
A/T > Shift Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Locations
1. Connect the HDS to the DLC (A) located behind the driver's dashboard lower cover.
2. Make sure the HDS communicates with the PCM. If it does not, go to the DLC circuit
troubleshooting. 3. Select Shift Solenoid Valve A, B, C, and D Test in the Miscellaneous Test Menu
on the HDS. 4. Check that shift solenoid valve A, B, C, and D operate with the HDS. A clicking
sound should be heard.
^ If a clicking-sound is heard, the valves are OK. The test is complete, disconnect the HDS.
5. Raise the vehicle on a lift, or apply the parking brake, block rear wheels, and raise the front of
the vehicle. Make sure it is securely supported. 6. Remove the splash shield. 7. Disconnect the
shift solenoid harness connector.
8. Measure the shift solenoid valve resistance between the shift solenoid harness connector
terminals below and body ground:
Standard: 12 - 25 ohms
^ If the resistance is within the standard, go to step 9 and check solenoid valve for a clicking sound.
9. Connect a jumper wire from the battery positive terminal to each shift solenoid harness
connector terminals individually. A clicking sound should
be heard.
^ If a clicking sound is heard, the valves are OK. The test is complete, connect the connector.
^ If no clicking sound is heard, go to step 10 and test the shift solenoid harness.
10. Remove the drain plug (A), and drain the automatic transmission fluid (ATF).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Actuators and Solenoids -
A/T > Shift Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Locations > Page 4445
11. Reinstall the drain plug with a new sealing washer (B). 12. Remove the shift solenoid valve
cover (A), the dowel pins (B), the gasket (C), and the harness clamp bracket (D).
13. Disconnect the connectors from shift solenoid valve A, shift solenoid valve B, shift solenoid
valve C, and shift solenoid valve D.
14. Measure the resistance of each solenoid valve between the connector terminal and body
ground.
Standard: 12 - 25 ohms
^ If the resistance is out of standard, go to step 17 and replace the shift solenoid valve.
^ If the resistance is within the standard, go to step 15 and check the solenoid valve for a clicking
sound.
15. Connect a jumper wire from the positive battery terminal to each solenoid terminal individually.
17. Remove the mounting bolts, then hold the shift solenoid valve body and remove the solenoid
valves. Do not hold the connector to remove the
solenoid valve.
18. Install new O-rings (two O-rings per solenoid valve) (E) on the reused solenoid valve.
NOTE: A new solenoid valve comes with new O-rings. If you install a new solenoid valve, use the
O-rings provided on it.
19. Install shift solenoid valve D (black connector) and shift solenoid valve C (brown connector) by
holding the shift solenoid valve body; make sure
NOTE: Do not hold the solenoid valve by the connector when installing the solenoid valve. Be sure
to hold the solenoid valve body.
20. Install shift solenoid valve B (black connector) by holding the shift solenoid valve body; make
sure the mounting bracket contacts the servo body. 21. Install shift solenoid valve A (brown
connector) by holding the shift solenoid valve body; make sure the mounting bracket contacts the
bracket of
NOTE: Do not install shift solenoid valve A before installing shift solenoid valve B. If shift solenoid
valve A is installed before installing shift solenoid valve B, it may damage to hydraulic control
system.
23. Install the shift solenoid valve cover, the dowel pins, a new gasket, and the harness clamp
bracket.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Actuators and Solenoids -
A/T > Shift Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Locations > Page 4447
24. Check the connector for rust, dirt, or oil, then connect the connector securely. 25. Refill the
transmission with ATF. 26. Install the splash shield.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Actuators and Solenoids -
A/T > Shift Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Locations > Page 4448
1. Raise the vehicle on a lift, or apply the parking brake, block rear wheels, and raise the front of
the vehicle. Make sure it is securely supported. 2. Remove the splash shield. 3. Remove the drain
plug (A), and drain the automatic transmission fluid (ATF).
4. Reinstall the drain plug with a new sealing washer (B). 5. Remove the shift solenoid valve cover
(A), the dowel pins (B), the gasket (C), and the harness clamp bracket (D).
^ If replacing the shift solenoid harness, remove the shift solenoid harness connector (A), and
replace it. Install a new O-ring (B) on the new shift solenoid harness connector, and install it in the
transmission housing, then go to step 12.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Actuators and Solenoids -
A/T > Shift Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Locations > Page 4449
7. Remove the mounting bolts, then hold the shift solenoid valve body and remove the solenoid
valves. Do not hold the connector to remove the
solenoid valve.
8. Install new O-rings (two O-rings per solenoid valve) (E) on the solenoid valve.
NOTE: A new solenoid valve comes with new O-rings. If you install a new solenoid valve, use the
O-rings provided on it.
9. Install shift solenoid valve D (black connector) and shift solenoid valve C (brown connector) by
holding the shift solenoid valve body; make sure
NOTE: Do not hold the solenoid valve by the connector when installing the solenoid valve. Be sure
to hold the solenoid valve body.
10. Install shift solenoid valve B (black connector) by holding the shift solenoid valve body; make
sure the mounting bracket contacts the servo body. 11. Install shift solenoid valve A (brown
connector) by holding the shift solenoid valve body; make sure the mounting bracket contacts the
bracket of
NOTE: Do not install shift solenoid valve A before installing shift solenoid valve B. If shift solenoid
valve A is installed before installing shift solenoid valve B, it may damage to hydraulic control
system.
13. Install the shift solenoid valve cover, the dowel pins, a new gasket, and the harness clamp
bracket. 14. Check the connector for rust, dirt, or oil, then connect the connector securely. 15. Refill
the transmission with ATF. 16. Install the splash shield.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Control Module, A/T >
Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Pinout Values and Diagnostic Parameters
^ Honda interface module (HIM) and an iN workstation with HDS and CM update software
NOTE: ^
Use this procedure when you need to update the PCM during troubleshooting procedures.
^ Make sure HDS/HIM has the latest software version downloaded from the iN (interactive
network).
^ To ensure the latest program is installed, do a PCM update whenever the PCM is substituted or
replaced.
^ You cannot update a PCM with the program it already has. It will only accept a new program.
^ Before you update the PCM, make sure the battery is fully charged, and connect a jumper battery
(not a battery charger) to maintain system voltage.
^ Never turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0) while updating the PCM. If you turn the ignition switch
to LOCK (0) before completion, the PCM can be damaged.
^ To prevent PCM damage, do not operate anything electrical (audio system, brakes, A/C, power
windows, moon roof (if equipped), door locks, etc.) during the update.
^ If you need to diagnose the Honda interface module (HIM) because the HIM's red 3) light came
on or was flashing during the update, leave the ignition switch in the ON (II) position when you
disconnect the HIM from the data link connector (DLC). This will prevent PCM damage.
^ High temperature in the engine compartment might cause the PCM to become too hot to run the
update. If the engine has been running before this procedure, open the hood and cool the engine
compartment.
1. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), but do not start the engine. 2. Connect the HDS to the DLC
(A) located behind the driver's dashboard lower cover.
3. Make sure the HDS communicates with the PCM. if it does not, go to the DLC circuit
troubleshooting. 4. Select the INSPECTION MENU with the HDS. 5. Select the ETCS TEST, then
select the TP POSITION CHECK, and follow the HDS screen prompts.
6. Exit the HDS, then select the CM update, and follow the screen prompts to update the PCM. 7. If
the PCM has the latest software, disconnect the HDS/HIM from the DLC, and go back to the
procedure that you were doing. If the software in
the PCM is not the latest, follow the instructions on the screen. If prompted to choose the PGM-FI
system or the A/T system, make sure you update both.
NOTE: If the PCM update procedure requires you to cool the PCM, follow the screen prompts. If
you run into a problem (programming takes over 15 minutes, status bar goes over 100 D or
immobilizer indicator flashes, HDS tablet freezes, etc.) during the update procedure, follow these
steps to minimize the chance of damaging the PCM:
^ Reconnect the HDS to the DLC, and try the update procedure again.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Control Module, A/T >
Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Pinout Values and Diagnostic Parameters > Page 4458
8. If the TP POSITION CHECK failed in step 5, clean the throttle body. 9. Do the PCM idle learn
procedure.
^ Honda interface module (HIM) and an iN workstation with HDS and CM update software
Use this procedure when you need to substitute a known-good PCM during troubleshooting
procedures.
1. Make sure you have the anti-theft code for the audio system or the navigation system (if
equipped), then write down the audio presets. 2. Connect the HDS to the DLC (A) located behind
the driver's dashboard lower cover.
3. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 4. Make sure the HDS communicates with the PCM. If it does
not, go to the DLC circuit troubleshooting. If you did the DLC circuit troubleshooting,
skip steps 5 thru 9, then clean the throttle body after substituting the PCM.
5. Select the INSPECTION MENU with the HDS. 6. Select the TP POSITION CHECK in the ETCS
TEST with the HDS.
7. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). 8. Remove the battery. 9. Remove the PCM cover (A).
10. Remove the bolts (D), and remove the PCM (E).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Control Module, A/T >
Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Pinout Values and Diagnostic Parameters > Page 4459
NOTE: PCM connectors A, B, and C have symbols (A = square, B = triangle, C = circle) embossed
on them for identification.
12. Install the PCM and the battery in the reverse order of removal. 13. Turn the ignition switch to
ON (II).
NOTE: DTC P0630 "VIN not Programmed or Mismatch" will be stored because VIN has not been
programmed into the PCM. Ignore it, and continue this procedure.
14. Input the VIN to the PCM with the HDS. 15. Update the PCM if it does not have the latest
software. 16. Select the IMMOBILIZER SYSTEM with the HDS. 17. Enter the immobilizer code with
the PCM replacement procedure in the HDS; this allows you to start the engine. 18. Reset the PCM
with the HDS. 19. If the TP POSITION CHECK indicates FAILED in step 6, clean the throttle body.
20. Do the PCM idle learn procedure. See: How to Update the PCM 21. Do the crank (CKP) learn
procedure. 22. Enter the anti-theft code for the audio system or the navigation system (if equipped),
enter the audio presets. Set the clock (on vehicles without
navigation).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Fluid - A/T > Component
Information > Specifications > Capacity Specifications
Fluid - A/T: Capacity Specifications
A/T Fluid
Always use Honda ATF-Z1. Using a non-Honda ATF can affect shift quality.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Fluid - A/T > Component
Information > Service and Repair > ATF Level Check
1. Park the vehicle on the level ground. 2. Start the engine, and warm it up to normal operating
temperature (the radiator fan comes on), and turn the engine off. Do not allow the engine to
warm up more than two cycles of the cooling fan.
NOTE: Check the fluid level within 60 - 90 seconds after turning the engine off. Higher fluid level
may be indicated if the radiator fan comes on twice or more.
3. Remove the dipstick (yellow loop) (A), and wipe it with a clean cloth.
4. Insert the dipstick into the transmission. 5. Remove the dipstick and check the fluid level. It
should be between the upper mark (A) and the lower mark (B).
6. If the level is below the lower mark, check for fluid leaks at the transmission, the hoses, and the
line joints. If a problem is found, fix it before
NOTE: If the vehicle is driven when the ATF level is below the lower mark:
^ The vehicle may accelerate poorly, and flare when starting off in D and R.
7. If the level is above the upper mark, drain the ATF to proper level.
NOTE: If the vehicle is driven when the ATF level is above the upper mark, the vehicle may creep
forward while in N, or have problems shifting.
8. If necessary, fill the transmission with ATF through the dipstick hole (A) to bring the fluid level
between the upper mark and the lower mark of the
dipstick. Do not fill the fluid above the upper mark. Always use genuine Honda ATF-Z1 automatic
transmission fluid (ATF). Using a non-Honda ATF can affect shift quality.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Fluid - A/T > Component
Information > Service and Repair > ATF Level Check > Page 4467
ATF Replacement
1. Start the engine, and warm it up to normal operating temperature (the radiator fan comes on). 2.
Park the vehicle on the level ground, and turn the engine off. 3. Remove the drain plug (A), and
drain the automatic transmission fluid (ATF).
4. Reinstall the drain plug with a new sealing washer (B). 5. Refill the transmission with the
recommended fluid into the dipstick hole to bring the fluid level between the upper mark and the
lower mark of the
dipstick. Always use Honda ATF-Z1 automatic transmission fluid (ATF). Using a non-Honda ATF
can affect shift quality.
Automatic Transmission Fluid Capacity: 2.4 L (2.5 US qt, 2.1 Imp qt) at change 5.9 L (6.2 US qt,
5.2 Imp qt, at overhaul
6. Check that the fluid level is between the upper mark and the lower mark of the dipstick. 7. Insert
the dipstick back into the transmission. 8. Connect the HDS to the DLC (A) located behind the
driver's dashboard lower cover.
9. Make sure the HDS communicates with the PCM. If it does not, go to the DLC circuit
troubleshooting.
10. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), and reset the ATF life with the HDS. 11. '06 4-door model
and '07-08 2 and 4 door models: If the maintenance minder recommends replacing the ATF, reset
the maintenance minder, and
this procedure is complete. If the maintenance minder did not recommend replacing the ATF, go to
step 12.
^ '06 2-door model: If the maintenance minder recommends replacing the ATF, reset the
maintenance minder, and this procedure is complete. If the maintenance minder did not
recommend replacing the ATF, notify the customer that the maintenance minder service interval
has not been reached and the maintenance minder will still be on the same interval as before.
12. Select BODY ELECTRICAL with the HDS. 13. Select ADJUSTMENT in the GAUGES MENU
with the HDS. 14. Select RESET in the MAINTENANCE MINDER with the HDS. 15. Select
RESETTING THE ATF with the HDS.
NOTE: If you changed the engine oil at the same time with the ATF, select RESETTING THE
ENGINE OIL LIFE AND ATF with the HDS
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Fluid - A/T > Component
Information > Service and Repair > ATF Level Check > Page 4469
instead.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Fluid Filter - A/T >
Component Information > Service and Repair
1. Remove the air cleaner assembly and the intake air duct. 2. Disconnect the ATF warmer hose
(A) from the ATF filter (B).
3. Remove the ATF filter holder (C). 4. Remove the bolt (D) securing the ATF inlet line (E). 5.
Remove the joint bolt (F) from the ATF inlet line. 6. Disconnect the ATF filter from the ATF warmer
hose (G), and replace it with new one. 7. Slide the ATF warmer hose (A) on the new ATF filter until
the hose end contacts the filter housing, and secure the hose with the clip (H) at 6 - 8
10. Slide the ATF warmer hose (G) on the ATF filter until the hose end contacts the filter housing,
and secure the hose with the clip (K) at 6 - 8 mm
11. Install the intake air duct and the air cleaner assembly.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Fluid Line/Hose, A/T >
Component Information > Service and Repair
1. Slide the ATF warmer hoses (A) on the ATF filter (B) until the hose ends contact the filter
housing, and secure the hoses with the clips (C) at 6 - 8
2. Slide the ATF warmer hoses (E) over the ATF lines (F) until the hoses stop, and secure the
hoses with the clip (G) at 6 - 8 mm (0.24 - 0.31 in.) (H)
3. Slide the ATF warmer hoses (I) over the ATF warmer lines (J) until the hose ends contact the
bulge (K), and secure the hoses with the clip (L) at 6
- 8 mm (0.24 - 0.31 in.) from the hose end.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Fluid Pressure
Sensor/Switch, A/T > Component Information > Locations
Fluid Pressure Sensor/Switch: Service and Repair 2nd Clutch Transmission Fluid Pressure Switch,
Replacement
2nd Clutch Transmission Fluid Pressure Switch, Replacement
1. Remove the air cleaner assembly and the intake air duct. 2. Remove the harness clamp (A) from
its bracket, and remove the air cleaner housing bracket (B).
3. Disconnect the 2nd clutch transmission fluid pressure switch connector, and remove the 2nd
clutch transmission fluid pressure switch (A).
4. Make sure there is no water, oil, dust, or foreign particles inside the connectors. 5. Install a new
2nd clutch transmission fluid pressure switch with a new sealing washer (B), and tighten the switch
to the specified torque by turning
6. Connect the connector securely. 7. Install the air cleaner housing bracket, and install the
harness clamp on its bracket. 8. Install the intake air duct and the air cleaner assembly.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Fluid Pressure
Sensor/Switch, A/T > Component Information > Service and Repair > 2nd Clutch Transmission Fluid Pressure Switch,
Replacement > Page 4484
Fluid Pressure Sensor/Switch: Service and Repair 3rd Clutch Transmission Fluid Pressure Switch
Replacement
1. Raise the vehicle on a lift, or apply the parking brake, block the rear wheels, and raise the front
of the vehicle. Make sure it is securely supported. 2. Remove the splash shield. 3. Disconnect the
3rd clutch transmission fluid pressure switch connector, then remove the 3rd clutch transmission
fluid pressure switch (A).
4. Make sure there is no water, oil, dust, or foreign particles inside the connector. 5. Install a new
3rd clutch transmission fluid pressure switch with a new sealing washer (B), and tighten the switch
to the specified torque by turning
Circuit Schematics
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Lamps and Indicators -
A/T > Shift Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4491
Circuit Schematics
Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show
current flow, from power at the top of the diagram, to ground at the bottom.
Shared Circuits
Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that
connects one circuit to another, for example, is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it
pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or
component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring, check the operation of a
component it serves. If that component works, you know the shared wiring is OK.
Connectors
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Lamps and Indicators -
A/T > Shift Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4492
All in-line and junction connectors are numbered (C725, C416, etc.). Component connectors are
not numbered but are identified either by the name of the component if the component only has
one connector, or by a capital letter (A, B, C, etc.) if the component has more than one connector.
Below most connector numbers and component names are PHOTO and VIEW numbers. The
PHOTO number refers to a photo at Vehicle Level Locations that shows the connector's location on
the car. The VIEW number refers to an connector view at the Vehicle Level Connector Views that
shows the connector terminals, wire colors, connector cavity numbers, and other details.
The connector cavity numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector as seen
from either of the viewpoints. Except for the DLC (data link connector), disregard any numbers
molded into the connector housing.
Wires
Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the
stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number "2" next to the male
and female wire terminals at C554, for example, means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector
C554.
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the vehicle. Refer to the Power Distribution Diagram Set to get a more detailed
understanding of how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on. Individual circuit
schematics begin with a fuse. So if Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another
circuit share a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good
and power is available to the inoperative circuit.
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share the same
ground point.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
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A/T > Shift Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4494
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
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A/T > Shift Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4495
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
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A/T > Shift Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4496
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
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A/T > Shift Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4497
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
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A/T > Shift Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4498
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Lamps and Indicators -
A/T > Shift Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4499
How to Identify Connector Terminals
Connector terminals are numbered according to the cavities they are in. The cavities are numbered
starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side or looking at the
female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the
same. All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not
the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the
connector face.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Lamps and Indicators -
A/T > Shift Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4500
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown above is #6.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Lamps and Indicators -
A/T > Shift Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4501
The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice
connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for
all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement
terminal availability.
On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged,
replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If
any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it.
Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the
wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the
terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to
make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a
factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS.
Use the tools from Pin Tool Set. First, check the connector that you are about to repair.
- If it has a secondary terminal lock, go to Connectors With a Secondary Lock. A secondary lock,
found on most connectors on some models, is an additional locking device on the connector
housing as a backup for the primary lock on the terminal.
- If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock.
All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the
secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the
connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities.
EXAMPLE A:
EXAMPLE B:
EXAMPLE C:
EXAMPLE D:
2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW
TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE E:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Lamps and Indicators -
A/T > Shift Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4505
1. Remove the secondary locks.
2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW
TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE F:
3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of
connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary
in size and shape.
EXAMPLE A:
EXAMPLE B:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Lamps and Indicators -
A/T > Shift Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4507
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE C:
EXAMPLE D:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Lamps and Indicators -
A/T > Shift Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4508
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE E:
EXAMPLE F:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Lamps and Indicators -
A/T > Shift Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4509
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE G:
1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct
replacement terminal based on the wire size range
NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part
number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available
through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures.
2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Lamps and Indicators -
A/T > Shift Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4510
3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the
wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from
the kit.)
NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did,
cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again.
4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the
anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown
in step 3.
6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact.
- If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool
over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the
stops make contact.
- If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully
squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Lamps and Indicators -
A/T > Shift Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4511
8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the following NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and
start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the
way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure
10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector.
Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too
short or when access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair.
On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged,
replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If
any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it.
1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from
Pin Tool Set.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Lamps and Indicators -
A/T > Shift Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4512
2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal,
then strip about half of the insulation off that piece.
This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal.
NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will
not nick or cut off any strands of wires.
3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and
same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit
onto the stripped end of the original wire.
5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the
pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more
than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at
the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the
harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make
each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail.
7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends
of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue
NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the
stripper.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Lamps and Indicators -
A/T > Shift Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4513
8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the
flare begins), and close the crimper handles far
enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click,
squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open.
9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the
wire all the way into the splice connector, and
squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until
the ratchet clicks again.
10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After
crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the
connector.
12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire(s), and shield them with
nonflammable material.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Lamps and Indicators -
A/T > Shift Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4514
13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the
gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat
evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete
when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube.
NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun.
Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the
wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size)
splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select
the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in
quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures.
Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the
Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching
connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body.
1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Lamps and Indicators -
A/T > Shift Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4515
2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool.
NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal
because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit.
3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal
with a replacement terminal from the appropriate
Five-Step Troubleshooting
Five-Step Troubleshooting
Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint.
Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
problem area.
Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by
tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground (certain
circuits contain a "How the Circuit Works" Diagram set). Also, trace circuits that share wiring with
the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on,
are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step
1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used
only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely
cause.
Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more
possible causes.
Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple
procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to
make tests at points that are easily accessible.
Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe
procedures.
Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire
problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure
no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur.
Test Equipment
Test Equipment
CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
1O-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up
of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to
various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is
voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital
volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is
between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM).
In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low
resistance means good continuity.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Lamps and Indicators -
A/T > Shift Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4516
Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a
reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is
affecting the measurement.
To order any test equipment shown, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool
numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin.
Jumper Wire
Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder
connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire
across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse.
To order any test equipment shown, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool
numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin.
Troubleshooting Precautions
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION: -
Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
- Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles.
2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part
Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place.
CAUTION: -
Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Lamps and Indicators -
A/T > Shift Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4517
- Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-mega
ohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that
contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
Troubleshooting Tests
Troubleshooting Tests
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt
ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest
"OHMS" range.
2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you
want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Lamps and Indicators -
A/T > Shift Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4518
4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or
no reading (zero), means good continuity.
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem. Circuits must be operating when checking
voltage drop.
1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts
range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage
is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM
voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Lamps and Indicators -
A/T > Shift Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4519
160. A/T Gear Position Indicator Panel Light/Park Pin Switch (A/T)
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
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A/T > Shift Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4520
1. Connect the HDS to the DLC (A) located behind the driver's dashboard lower cover.
2. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). Make sure the HDS communicates with the PCM. If it does
not, go to the DLC circuit troubleshooting. 3. Select Clutch Pressure Control (Linear) Solenoid
Valve A in the Miscellaneous Test Menu with the HDS. 4. Test A/T clutch pressure control solenoid
valve A with the HDS.
^ If the valve tests OK, the test is complete. Disconnect the HDS.
^ If the valve does not test OK, follow the instructions on the HDS.
^ If the valve does not test OK, and the HDS does not determine the cause, go to step 5.
5. Remove the air cleaner assembly and the intake air duct. 6. Remove the mounting bolts
securing the harness cover (A), and remove the harness clamp (B).
7. Disconnect the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A connector (A).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Pressure Regulating
Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve A Test >
Page 4528
8. Measure the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A resistance at the connector terminals.
Standard: 3 - 10 ohms
^ If the resistance is out of standard, replace A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A.
9. Connect a jumper wire from the negative battery terminal to A/T clutch pressure control solenoid
valve A connector terminal No. 2, and connect
another jumper wire from the positive battery terminal to connector terminal No. 1.
^ If a clicking sound is heard, the valve is OK. Reconnect the connector, and install all removed
parts.
10. Remove the mounting bolts and A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A.
11. Remove the ATF pipe (B), the ATF joint pipes (C), the O-rings (D), and the gasket (E). 12.
Check the fluid passage of the solenoid valve for contamination. 13. Connect a jumper wire from
the negative battery terminal to A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A connector terminal No.
2, and connect
another jumper wire from the positive battery terminal to connector terminal No. 1. Make sure A/T
clutch pressure control solenoid valve A moves.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Pressure Regulating
Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve A Test >
Page 4529
14. Disconnect one of the jumper wires and check the valve movement at the fluid passage in the
valve body mounting surface. If the valve binds or
moves sluggishly, or if the solenoid valve does not operate, replace A/T clutch pressure control
solenoid valve A.
15. Clean the mounting surfaces and fluid passages of the solenoid valve body and the
transmission housing. 16. Install a new gasket with the blue side down and the white side up on the
transmission housing, and install the ATF pipe and the ATF joint pipes. 17. Install new O-rings over
the ATF joint pipes. 18. Install A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A. 19. Check the
connectors for rust, dirt, or oil, clean or repair if necessary, then connect the connectors securely.
20. Secure the harness cover with the mounting bolts, and install the harness clamp. 21. Install the
intake air duct and the air cleaner assembly.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Pressure Regulating
Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve A Test >
Page 4530
Pressure Regulating Solenoid: Testing and Inspection A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve
B Test
A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve B Test
1. Connect the HDS to the DLC (A) located behind the driver's dashboard lower cover.
2. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). Make sure the HDS communicates with the PCM. If it does
not, go to the DLC circuit troubleshooting. 3. Select Clutch Pressure Control (Linear) Solenoid
Valve B in the Miscellaneous Test Menu with the HDS. 4. Test A/T clutch pressure control solenoid
valve B with the HDS.
^ If the valve tests OK, the test is complete. Disconnect the HDS.
^ If the valve does not test OK, follow the instructions on the HDS.
^ If the valve does not test OK, and the HDS does not determine the cause, go to step 5.
5. Remove the air cleaner assembly and the intake air duct. 6. Remove the mounting bolts
securing the, harness cover (A), and remove the harness clamp (B).
7. Disconnect the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve B connector (A).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Pressure Regulating
Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve A Test >
Page 4531
8. Measure the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve B resistance at the connector terminals.
Standard: 3 - 10 ohms
^ If the resistance is out of standard, replace A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve B.
9. Connect a jumper wire from the negative battery terminal to A/T clutch pressure control solenoid
valve B connector terminal No. 2, and connect
another jumper wire from the positive battery terminal to connector terminal No. 1.
^ If a clicking sound is heard, the valve is OK. Reconnect the connector, and install all removed
parts.
11. Remove the ATF pipe (A), the ATF joint pipes (D), the O-rings (E), and the, gasket (F) 12.
Check the fluid passage of the solenoid valve for contamination. 13. Connect a jumper wire from
the negative battery terminal to A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve B connector terminal No.
2, and connect
another jumper wire from the positive battery terminal to connector terminal No. 1. Make sure A/T
clutch pressure control solenoid valve B moves.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Pressure Regulating
Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve A Test >
Page 4532
14. Disconnect one of the jumper wires and check the valve movement at the fluid passage in the
valve body mounting surface. If the valve binds or
moves sluggishly, or if the solenoid valve does not operate, replace A/T clutch pressure control
solenoid valves B and C.
15. Clean the mounting surfaces and fluid passages of the solenoid valve body and the
transmission housing. 16. Install a new gasket with the blue side down and the white side up on the
transmission housing. 17. Install the ATF pipe and the ATF joint pipes, and install new O-rings over
the ATF joint pipes. 18. Install A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valves B and C. 19. Check the
A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve B and C connectors for rust, dirt, or oil, then connect the
connectors securely. 20. Secure the harness cover with the mounting bolts, and install the harness
clamp. 21. Install the intake air duct and the air cleaner assembly.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Pressure Regulating
Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve A Test >
Page 4533
Pressure Regulating Solenoid: Testing and Inspection A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve
C Test
A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve C Test
1. Connect the HDS to the DLC (A) located behind the driver's dashboard lower cover.
2. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). Make sure the HDS communicates with the PCM. If it does
not, go to the DLC circuit troubleshooting. 3. Select Clutch Pressure Control (Linear) Solenoid
Valve C in the Miscellaneous Test Menu on the HDS. 4. Test A/T clutch pressure control solenoid
valve C with the HDS.
^ If the valve tests OK, the test is complete. Disconnect the HDS.
^ If the valve does not test OK, follow the instructions on the HDS.
^ If the valve does not test OK, and the HDS does not determine the cause, go to step 5.
5. Remove the air cleaner assembly and the intake air duct. 6. Remove the mounting bolts
securing the harness cover (A), and remove the harness clamp (B).
7. Disconnect the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve C connector (A).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Pressure Regulating
Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve A Test >
Page 4534
8. Measure the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve C resistance at the connector terminals.
Standard: 3 - 10 ohms
^ If the resistance is out of standard, replace A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve C.
9. Connect a jumper wire from the negative battery terminal to A/T clutch pressure control solenoid
valve C connector terminal No. 2, and connect
another jumper wire from the positive battery terminal to connector terminal No. 1.
^ If a clicking sound is heard, the valve is OK. Reconnect the connector, and install all removed
parts.
11. Remove the ATF pipe (A), the ATF joint pipes (D), the O-rings (E), and the gasket (F) 12.
Check the fluid passage of the solenoid valve for contamination. 13. Connect a jumper wire from
the negative battery terminal to A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve C connector terminal No.
2, and connect
another jumper wire from the positive battery terminal to connector terminal No. 1. Make sure A/T
clutch pressure control solenoid valve C moves.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Pressure Regulating
Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve A Test >
Page 4535
14. Disconnect one of the jumper wires and check the valve movement at the fluid passage in the
valve body mounting surface. If the valve binds or
moves sluggishly, or if the solenoid valve does not operate, replace A/T clutch pressure control
solenoid valves B and C.
15. Clean the mounting surfaces and fluid passages of the solenoid valve body and the
transmission housing. 16. Install a new gasket with the blue side down and the white side up on the
transmission housing. 17. Install the ATF pipe and the ATF joint pipes, and install new O-rings over
the ATF joint pipes. 18. Install A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valves B and C. 19. Check the
A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve B and C connectors for rust, dirt, or oil, then connect the
connectors securely. 20. Secure the harness cover with the mounting bolts, and install the harness
clamp. 21. Install the intake air duct and the air cleaner assembly.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Pressure Regulating
Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Service and Repair > A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve A Replacement
Pressure Regulating Solenoid: Service and Repair A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve A
Replacement
1. Remove the air cleaner assembly and the intake air duct. 2. Remove the mounting bolts
securing the harness cover (A), and remove the harness clamp (B).
3. Disconnect the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A connector. 4. Remove the mounting
bolts and A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A.
5. Remove the ATF pipe (B), the ATF joint pipes (C), the O-rings (D), and the gasket (E). 6. Check
the fluid passage of the transmission housing for dust or dirt, and clean the passage. 7. Install a
new gasket with the blue side down and the white side up on the transmission housing, and install
the ATF pipe and the ATF joint pipes. 8. Install new O-rings over the ATF joint pipes. 9. Install a
new A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A.
10. Check the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A connector for rust, dirt, or oil, then
connect the connector securely. 11. Secure the harness cover with the mounting bolts, and install
the harness clamp. 12. Install the intake air duct and the air cleaner assembly.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Pressure Regulating
Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Service and Repair > A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve A Replacement
> Page 4538
Pressure Regulating Solenoid: Service and Repair A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve B
and C Replacement
A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve B and C Replacement
1. Remove the air cleaner assembly and the intake air duct. 2. Remove the mounting bolts
securing the harness cover (A), and remove the harness clamp (D).
3. Disconnect the connectors from A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve B and C. 4. Remove
A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve B and C.
5. Remove the ATF pipe (A), the ATF joint pipes (D), the O-rings (E), and the gasket (F) 6. Clean
the mounting surface and the fluid passages of the transmission housing. 7. Install a new gasket
with the blue side down and the white side up on the transmission housing. 8. Install the ATF pipe
and the ATF joint pipes, and install new O-rings over the ATF joint pipes. 9. Install a new A/T clutch
pressure control solenoid valve B and C.
10. Check the A/T. clutch pressure control, solenoid valve B and C connectors for rust, dirt, or oil,
then connect the connectors securely. 11. Secure the harness cover with the mounting bolts, and
install the harness clamp. 12. Install the intake air duct and the air cleaner assembly.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Relays and Modules - A/T
> Control Module, A/T > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Pinout Values and Diagnostic Parameters
^ Honda interface module (HIM) and an iN workstation with HDS and CM update software
NOTE: ^
Use this procedure when you need to update the PCM during troubleshooting procedures.
^ Make sure HDS/HIM has the latest software version downloaded from the iN (interactive
network).
^ To ensure the latest program is installed, do a PCM update whenever the PCM is substituted or
replaced.
^ You cannot update a PCM with the program it already has. It will only accept a new program.
^ Before you update the PCM, make sure the battery is fully charged, and connect a jumper battery
(not a battery charger) to maintain system voltage.
^ Never turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0) while updating the PCM. If you turn the ignition switch
to LOCK (0) before completion, the PCM can be damaged.
^ To prevent PCM damage, do not operate anything electrical (audio system, brakes, A/C, power
windows, moon roof (if equipped), door locks, etc.) during the update.
^ If you need to diagnose the Honda interface module (HIM) because the HIM's red 3) light came
on or was flashing during the update, leave the ignition switch in the ON (II) position when you
disconnect the HIM from the data link connector (DLC). This will prevent PCM damage.
^ High temperature in the engine compartment might cause the PCM to become too hot to run the
update. If the engine has been running before this procedure, open the hood and cool the engine
compartment.
1. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), but do not start the engine. 2. Connect the HDS to the DLC
(A) located behind the driver's dashboard lower cover.
3. Make sure the HDS communicates with the PCM. if it does not, go to the DLC circuit
troubleshooting. 4. Select the INSPECTION MENU with the HDS. 5. Select the ETCS TEST, then
select the TP POSITION CHECK, and follow the HDS screen prompts.
6. Exit the HDS, then select the CM update, and follow the screen prompts to update the PCM. 7. If
the PCM has the latest software, disconnect the HDS/HIM from the DLC, and go back to the
procedure that you were doing. If the software in
the PCM is not the latest, follow the instructions on the screen. If prompted to choose the PGM-FI
system or the A/T system, make sure you update both.
NOTE: If the PCM update procedure requires you to cool the PCM, follow the screen prompts. If
you run into a problem (programming takes over 15 minutes, status bar goes over 100 D or
immobilizer indicator flashes, HDS tablet freezes, etc.) during the update procedure, follow these
steps to minimize the chance of damaging the PCM:
^ Reconnect the HDS to the DLC, and try the update procedure again.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Relays and Modules - A/T
> Control Module, A/T > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Pinout Values and Diagnostic Parameters >
Page 4548
8. If the TP POSITION CHECK failed in step 5, clean the throttle body. 9. Do the PCM idle learn
procedure.
10. Do the crank (CKP) learn procedure.
^ Honda interface module (HIM) and an iN workstation with HDS and CM update software
Use this procedure when you need to substitute a known-good PCM during troubleshooting
procedures.
1. Make sure you have the anti-theft code for the audio system or the navigation system (if
equipped), then write down the audio presets. 2. Connect the HDS to the DLC (A) located behind
the driver's dashboard lower cover.
3. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 4. Make sure the HDS communicates with the PCM. If it does
not, go to the DLC circuit troubleshooting. If you did the DLC circuit troubleshooting,
skip steps 5 thru 9, then clean the throttle body after substituting the PCM.
5. Select the INSPECTION MENU with the HDS. 6. Select the TP POSITION CHECK in the ETCS
TEST with the HDS.
7. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). 8. Remove the battery. 9. Remove the PCM cover (A).
10. Remove the bolts (D), and remove the PCM (E).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Relays and Modules - A/T
> Control Module, A/T > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Pinout Values and Diagnostic Parameters >
Page 4549
NOTE: PCM connectors A, B, and C have symbols (A = square, B = triangle, C = circle) embossed
on them for identification.
12. Install the PCM and the battery in the reverse order of removal. 13. Turn the ignition switch to
ON (II).
NOTE: DTC P0630 "VIN not Programmed or Mismatch" will be stored because VIN has not been
programmed into the PCM. Ignore it, and continue this procedure.
14. Input the VIN to the PCM with the HDS. 15. Update the PCM if it does not have the latest
software. 16. Select the IMMOBILIZER SYSTEM with the HDS. 17. Enter the immobilizer code with
the PCM replacement procedure in the HDS; this allows you to start the engine. 18. Reset the PCM
with the HDS. 19. If the TP POSITION CHECK indicates FAILED in step 6, clean the throttle body.
20. Do the PCM idle learn procedure. See: How to Update the PCM 21. Do the crank (CKP) learn
procedure. 22. Enter the anti-theft code for the audio system or the navigation system (if equipped),
enter the audio presets. Set the clock (on vehicles without
navigation).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Relays and Modules - A/T
> Shift Interlock Control Module > Component Information > Locations
171. Shift Lock Solenoid Cut Relay And Start Relay (Honda Accessory: Canada A/T)
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Sensors and Switches -
A/T > Fluid Pressure Sensor/Switch, A/T > Component Information > Locations
Fluid Pressure Sensor/Switch: Service and Repair 2nd Clutch Transmission Fluid Pressure Switch,
Replacement
2nd Clutch Transmission Fluid Pressure Switch, Replacement
1. Remove the air cleaner assembly and the intake air duct. 2. Remove the harness clamp (A) from
its bracket, and remove the air cleaner housing bracket (B).
3. Disconnect the 2nd clutch transmission fluid pressure switch connector, and remove the 2nd
clutch transmission fluid pressure switch (A).
4. Make sure there is no water, oil, dust, or foreign particles inside the connectors. 5. Install a new
2nd clutch transmission fluid pressure switch with a new sealing washer (B), and tighten the switch
to the specified torque by turning
6. Connect the connector securely. 7. Install the air cleaner housing bracket, and install the
harness clamp on its bracket. 8. Install the intake air duct and the air cleaner assembly.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Sensors and Switches -
A/T > Fluid Pressure Sensor/Switch, A/T > Component Information > Service and Repair > 2nd Clutch Transmission Fluid
Pressure Switch, Replacement > Page 4565
Fluid Pressure Sensor/Switch: Service and Repair 3rd Clutch Transmission Fluid Pressure Switch
Replacement
1. Raise the vehicle on a lift, or apply the parking brake, block the rear wheels, and raise the front
of the vehicle. Make sure it is securely supported. 2. Remove the splash shield. 3. Disconnect the
3rd clutch transmission fluid pressure switch connector, then remove the 3rd clutch transmission
fluid pressure switch (A).
4. Make sure there is no water, oil, dust, or foreign particles inside the connector. 5. Install a new
3rd clutch transmission fluid pressure switch with a new sealing washer (B), and tighten the switch
to the specified torque by turning
160. A/T Gear Position Indicator Panel Light/Park Pin Switch (A/T)
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Sensors and Switches -
A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Locations
1. Remove the air cleaner assembly and the intake air duct. 2. Disconnect the transmission range
switch harness connector (A).
3. Check for continuity between terminals at the harness connector. There should be continuity
between the terminals in the following table for each
switch position.
4. Transmission range switch test is completed if the test results are OK.
5. Raise the vehicle on a lift, or apply the parking brake, block the rear wheels, and raise the front
of the vehicle. Make sure it is securely supported. 6. Remove the transmission range switch cover.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Sensors and Switches -
A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Locations > Page 4580
7. Disconnect the transmission range switch connector.
8. Check for continuity between terminals at the switch connector. There should be continuity
between the terminals in the following table for each
switch position.
9. If the transmission range switch test is OK, replace the faulty transmission range switch harness.
10. Remove the transmission range switch, and check the end of the selector control shaft (A).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Sensors and Switches -
A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Locations > Page 4581
11. If the measurement at the end of the selector control shaft end is within the standard, replace
the transmission range switch. If the measurement is
out of the standard, repair the selector control shaft end, and recheck the transmission range
switch continuity.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Sensors and Switches -
A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Locations > Page 4582
Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: Service and Repair
1. Raise the vehicle on a lift, or apply the parking brake, block the rear wheels, and raise the front
of the vehicle. Make sure it is securely supported. 2. Shift the shift lever to N. 3. Remove the
transmission range switch cover.
5. Make sure the selector control shaft is in the N position. If necessary, move the shift lever to the
N position from the P position.
6. Align the cutouts (A) on the rotary-frame with the neutral positioning cutouts (B) on the
transmission range switch (C), then put a 2.0 mm (0.08
in.) feeler gauge blade (D) in the cutouts to hold the switch in the N position.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Sensors and Switches -
A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Locations > Page 4583
7. Install the transmission range switch (A) gently on the selector control shaft (B) while holding it in
the N position with the 2.0 mm (0.08 in.) blade
(C).
8. Tighten the bolts on the transmission range switch while you continue holding the N position. Do
not move the transmission range switch when
9. Check the connectors for rust, dirt, or oil, clean or repair if necessary, then connect the
connector securely.
10. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). Move the shift lever through all positions, and check the
transmission range switch synchronization with the
11. Check that the engine will start in P and N, and will not start in any other shift lever position. 12.
Check that the back-up lights come on when the shift lever is in R. 13. Allow the front wheels to
rotate freely, then start the engine, and check the shift lever operation. 14. Install the transmission
range switch cover.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Sensors and Switches -
A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Locations > Page 4584
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Sensors and Switches -
A/T > Transmission Speed Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Locations
Transmission Speed Sensor: Service and Repair Input Shaft (Mainshaft) Speed Sensor
Replacement
Input Shaft (Mainshaft) Speed Sensor Replacement
1. Remove the air cleaner assembly and the intake air duct. 2. Remove the harness clamp (A) from
its bracket, and remove the air cleaner housing bracket (B).
3. Disconnect the input shaft (mainshaft) speed sensor connector, and remove the input shaft
(mainshaft) speed sensor (A).
4. Install a new O-ring (B) on the new input shaft (mainshaft) speed sensor, then install the input
shaft (mainshaft) speed sensor in the transmission
housing.
5. Check the connector for rust, dirt, or oil, then connect the connector securely. 6. Install the air
cleaner housing bracket, and install the harness clamp on its bracket. 7. Install the intake air duct
and the air cleaner assembly.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Sensors and Switches -
A/T > Transmission Speed Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Service and Repair > Input Shaft (Mainshaft) Speed
Sensor Replacement > Page 4595
Transmission Speed Sensor: Service and Repair Output Shaft (Countershaft) Speed Sensor
Replacement
1. Remove the air cleaner assembly and the intake air duct. 2. Disconnect the output shaft
(countershaft) speed sensor connector, and remove the output shaft (countershaft) speed sensor
(A).
3. Install a new O-ring (B) on a new output shaft (countershaft) speed sensor, then install the
output shaft (countershaft) speed sensor in the
transmission housing.
4. Check the connector for rust, dirt, or oil, then connect the connector securely. 5. Install the intake
air duct and the air cleaner assembly.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Sensors and Switches -
A/T > Transmission Temperature Sensor/Switch, A/T > Component Information > Locations
1. Raise the vehicle on a lift, or apply the parking brake, block the rear wheels, and raise the front
of the vehicle. Make sure it is securely supported. 2. Remove the splash shield. 3. Disconnect the
shift solenoid harness connector.
4. Measure the ATF temperature sensor resistance between shift solenoid harness connector
terminals No. 6 and No. 7.
5. If the resistance is out of standard, go to step 6, and replace the ATF temperature sensor and
solenoid harness. The ATF temperature sensor is not
^ If the resistance is within the standard, the test is complete, connect the connector securely, and
install the splash shield.
6. Remove the drain plug (A), and drain the automatic transmission fluid (ATF).
7. Reinstall the drain plug with a new sealing washer (B). 8. Remove the shift solenoid valve cover
(A), the dowel pins (B), the gasket (C), and the harness clamp bracket (D).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Sensors and Switches -
A/T > Transmission Temperature Sensor/Switch, A/T > Component Information > Locations > Page 4601
9. Remove the shift solenoid harness connector (E), and replace it.
10. Install a new O-ring (F) on a new shift solenoid harness connector, and install the connector in
the transmission housing. 11. Connect WHT harnesses and ORN harness connector to shift
solenoid valve B. ATF temperature sensor is assembled in the connector with WHT
harnesses.
13. Install the shift solenoid valve cover, the dowel pins, a new gasket, and the harness clamp
bracket. 14. Check the connector for rust, dirt, or oil, then connect the connector securely. 15. Refill
the transmission with ATF. 16. Install the splash shield.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Sensors and Switches -
A/T > Transmission Temperature Sensor/Switch, A/T > Component Information > Locations > Page 4602
Transmission Temperature Sensor/Switch: Service and Repair
1. Raise the vehicle on a lift, or apply the parking brake, block the rear wheels, and raise the front
of the vehicle. Make sure it is securely supported. 2. Remove the splash shield. 3. Disconnect the
shift solenoid harness connector.
4. Measure the ATF temperature sensor resistance between shift solenoid harness connector
terminals No. 6 and No. 7.
5. If the resistance is out of standard, go to step 6, and replace the ATF temperature sensor and
solenoid harness. The ATF temperature sensor is not
^ If the resistance is within the standard, the test is complete, connect the connector securely, and
install the splash shield.
6. Remove the drain plug (A), and drain the automatic transmission fluid (ATF).
7. Reinstall the drain plug with a new sealing washer (B). 8. Remove the shift solenoid valve cover
(A), the dowel pins (B), the gasket (C), and the harness clamp bracket (D).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Sensors and Switches -
A/T > Transmission Temperature Sensor/Switch, A/T > Component Information > Locations > Page 4603
9. Remove the shift solenoid harness connector (E), and replace it.
10. Install a new O-ring (F) on a new shift solenoid harness connector, and install the connector in
the transmission housing. 11. Connect WHT harnesses and ORN harness connector to shift
solenoid valve B. ATF temperature sensor is assembled in the connector with WHT
harnesses.
13. Install the shift solenoid valve cover, the dowel pins, a new gasket, and the harness clamp
bracket. 14. Check the connector for rust, dirt, or oil, then connect the connector securely. 15. Refill
the transmission with ATF. 16. Install the splash shield.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Shift Interlock, A/T > Shift
Interlock Control Module > Component Information > Locations
171. Shift Lock Solenoid Cut Relay And Start Relay (Honda Accessory: Canada A/T)
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Shift Interlock, A/T > Shift
Interlock Solenoid > Component Information > Locations > Component Locations
1. Remove the shift lever assembly. 2. Remove the shift lock solenoid connector. 3. Release the
shift lock solenoid lock (A), then remove the shift lock solenoid (B).
4. Replace the shift lock solenoid (A), solenoid plunger (B), and plunger spring (C) assembly.
5. Apply silicone grease to the tip (D) of the shift lock stop (E), and install a new shift lock solenoid
assembly by aligning the joint of the shift lock
6. Route the shift lock solenoid harness in the guide, and install the connector (F) on the bracket
base. 7. Install the shift lever assembly.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Shift Interlock, A/T > Shift
Interlock Switch > Component Information > Locations > Component Locations
160. A/T Gear Position Indicator Panel Light/Park Pin Switch (A/T)
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Shift Solenoid, A/T >
Component Information > Locations
1. Connect the HDS to the DLC (A) located behind the driver's dashboard lower cover.
2. Make sure the HDS communicates with the PCM. If it does not, go to the DLC circuit
troubleshooting. 3. Select Shift Solenoid Valve A, B, C, and D Test in the Miscellaneous Test Menu
on the HDS. 4. Check that shift solenoid valve A, B, C, and D operate with the HDS. A clicking
sound should be heard.
^ If a clicking-sound is heard, the valves are OK. The test is complete, disconnect the HDS.
5. Raise the vehicle on a lift, or apply the parking brake, block rear wheels, and raise the front of
the vehicle. Make sure it is securely supported. 6. Remove the splash shield. 7. Disconnect the
shift solenoid harness connector.
8. Measure the shift solenoid valve resistance between the shift solenoid harness connector
terminals below and body ground:
Standard: 12 - 25 ohms
^ If the resistance is within the standard, go to step 9 and check solenoid valve for a clicking sound.
9. Connect a jumper wire from the battery positive terminal to each shift solenoid harness
connector terminals individually. A clicking sound should
be heard.
^ If a clicking sound is heard, the valves are OK. The test is complete, connect the connector.
^ If no clicking sound is heard, go to step 10 and test the shift solenoid harness.
10. Remove the drain plug (A), and drain the automatic transmission fluid (ATF).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Shift Solenoid, A/T >
Component Information > Locations > Page 4632
11. Reinstall the drain plug with a new sealing washer (B). 12. Remove the shift solenoid valve
cover (A), the dowel pins (B), the gasket (C), and the harness clamp bracket (D).
13. Disconnect the connectors from shift solenoid valve A, shift solenoid valve B, shift solenoid
valve C, and shift solenoid valve D.
14. Measure the resistance of each solenoid valve between the connector terminal and body
ground.
Standard: 12 - 25 ohms
^ If the resistance is out of standard, go to step 17 and replace the shift solenoid valve.
^ If the resistance is within the standard, go to step 15 and check the solenoid valve for a clicking
sound.
15. Connect a jumper wire from the positive battery terminal to each solenoid terminal individually.
17. Remove the mounting bolts, then hold the shift solenoid valve body and remove the solenoid
valves. Do not hold the connector to remove the
solenoid valve.
18. Install new O-rings (two O-rings per solenoid valve) (E) on the reused solenoid valve.
NOTE: A new solenoid valve comes with new O-rings. If you install a new solenoid valve, use the
O-rings provided on it.
19. Install shift solenoid valve D (black connector) and shift solenoid valve C (brown connector) by
holding the shift solenoid valve body; make sure
NOTE: Do not hold the solenoid valve by the connector when installing the solenoid valve. Be sure
to hold the solenoid valve body.
20. Install shift solenoid valve B (black connector) by holding the shift solenoid valve body; make
sure the mounting bracket contacts the servo body. 21. Install shift solenoid valve A (brown
connector) by holding the shift solenoid valve body; make sure the mounting bracket contacts the
bracket of
NOTE: Do not install shift solenoid valve A before installing shift solenoid valve B. If shift solenoid
valve A is installed before installing shift solenoid valve B, it may damage to hydraulic control
system.
23. Install the shift solenoid valve cover, the dowel pins, a new gasket, and the harness clamp
bracket.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Shift Solenoid, A/T >
Component Information > Locations > Page 4634
24. Check the connector for rust, dirt, or oil, then connect the connector securely. 25. Refill the
transmission with ATF. 26. Install the splash shield.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Shift Solenoid, A/T >
Component Information > Locations > Page 4635
1. Raise the vehicle on a lift, or apply the parking brake, block rear wheels, and raise the front of
the vehicle. Make sure it is securely supported. 2. Remove the splash shield. 3. Remove the drain
plug (A), and drain the automatic transmission fluid (ATF).
4. Reinstall the drain plug with a new sealing washer (B). 5. Remove the shift solenoid valve cover
(A), the dowel pins (B), the gasket (C), and the harness clamp bracket (D).
^ If replacing the shift solenoid harness, remove the shift solenoid harness connector (A), and
replace it. Install a new O-ring (B) on the new shift solenoid harness connector, and install it in the
transmission housing, then go to step 12.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Shift Solenoid, A/T >
Component Information > Locations > Page 4636
7. Remove the mounting bolts, then hold the shift solenoid valve body and remove the solenoid
valves. Do not hold the connector to remove the
solenoid valve.
8. Install new O-rings (two O-rings per solenoid valve) (E) on the solenoid valve.
NOTE: A new solenoid valve comes with new O-rings. If you install a new solenoid valve, use the
O-rings provided on it.
9. Install shift solenoid valve D (black connector) and shift solenoid valve C (brown connector) by
holding the shift solenoid valve body; make sure
NOTE: Do not hold the solenoid valve by the connector when installing the solenoid valve. Be sure
to hold the solenoid valve body.
10. Install shift solenoid valve B (black connector) by holding the shift solenoid valve body; make
sure the mounting bracket contacts the servo body. 11. Install shift solenoid valve A (brown
connector) by holding the shift solenoid valve body; make sure the mounting bracket contacts the
bracket of
NOTE: Do not install shift solenoid valve A before installing shift solenoid valve B. If shift solenoid
valve A is installed before installing shift solenoid valve B, it may damage to hydraulic control
system.
13. Install the shift solenoid valve cover, the dowel pins, a new gasket, and the harness clamp
bracket. 14. Check the connector for rust, dirt, or oil, then connect the connector securely. 15. Refill
the transmission with ATF. 16. Install the splash shield.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Shifter A/T > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Removal and Replacement
Shifter A/T: Removal and Replacement
1. Remove the center console. 2. Shift the shift lever into R. 3. Pry the socket holder lock (A) up
using a screwdriver.
5. Rotate the socket holder retainer (A) counterclockwise, push it against the socket holder bracket
(B), then slide the socket holder to remove the
6. Disconnect the shift lock solenoid connector (A) and the park pin switch/A/T gear position
indicator panel light connector (B).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Shifter A/T > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Removal and Replacement > Page 4641
7. Remove the shift lever assembly.
2. Connect the shift lock solenoid connector (A) and the park pin switch/A/T gear position indicator
panel light connector (B). 3. Install the shift cable on the shift lever, and adjust the cable.
A/T Gear Position Indicator Panel Light Harness/Park Pin Switch Replacement
A/T Gear Position Indicator Panel Light Harness/Park Pin Switch Replacement
NOTE: The A/T gear position indicator light and the park pin switch are not available separately.
Replace the A/T gear position indicator light and the park pin switch as a set.
1. Remove the shift lever assembly. 2. Loosen the A/T gear position indicator panel. 3. Remove the
park pin switch (A) while pressing the park pin switch lock (B).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Shifter A/T > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Removal and Replacement > Page 4642
4. Remove the A/T gear position indicator panel light and socket (A) from the indicator panel (B),
and remove the light bulb (C) from the socket.
5. Remove the harness clamp (D), and remove the park pin switch/A/T gear position indicator
panel light connector (E) from the shift lever
6. Install a new park pin switch (G) on the shift lever. 7. Install the A/T gear position indicator panel
light bulb in the new socket, and install it in the indicator panel. 8. Clamp the harnesses together
with the harness clamp, then install the harness clamp on the shift lever bracket base. 9. Route the
harnesses along the harness guides, and install the new connector in the bracket base.
10. Install the A/T gear position indicator panel. 11. Install the shift lever assembly. 12. Install the
center console.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Shifter A/T > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Removal and Replacement > Page 4643
Shift Lever
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Shift Linkage, A/T > Shift
Cable, A/T > Component Information > Adjustments
Shift Cable: Adjustments
1. Remove the center console. 2. Pry the socket holder lock (A) up with a screwdriver.
4. Rotate the socket holder retainer (A) counterclockwise, push it against the socket holder bracket
(B), then slide the socket holder to remove the
5. While holding the socket holder (A), rotate the socket holder retainer (B) fully counterclockwise,
and press in the socket holder lock (C) between
7. Rotate the socket holder retainer (A) clockwise, and push the socket holder lock (B). Rotate the
holder retainer counterclockwise until the retainer
stops at the stop (C) of the holder lock to secure the shift cable.
8. Push the shift cable (A) until it stops, then release it. Pull the shift cable back one step so that
the shift position is in R. Do not hold the shift cable
10. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). 11. Place the shift lever in R, then insert a 6.0 mm (0.24
in.) pin (A) into the positioning hole (B) on the shift lever bracket, through the positioning
hole on the shift lever, and into the positioning hole on the bracket. Use only a 6.0 mm pin that is
free any burrs.
12. Check that the shift lever is secured in R. 13. Install the shift cable end (A) over the mounting
stud (B) by aligning its square hole (C) with the square fitting (D) at the bottom of the stud. Do
not install the shift cable by holding the shift cable guide (E).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Shift Linkage, A/T > Shift
Cable, A/T > Component Information > Adjustments > Page 4650
14. Check that the shift cable end (A) is properly installed on the mounting stud (B).
15. If improperly installed, align the square fining with the square hole by rotating the mounting
stud. 16. Install and tighten the nut.
17. Remove the 6.0 mm (0.24 in.) pin that was installed to hold the shift lever. 18. Turn the ignition
switch to ON (II). Move the shift lever to each position, and check that the A/T gear position
indicator follows the transmission
range switch.
19. Shift to P, and check that the shift lock works properly. Push the shift lock release, and check
that the shift lever releases. 20. Install the center console.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Shift Linkage, A/T > Shift
Cable, A/T > Component Information > Adjustments > Page 4651
Shift Cable: Service and Repair
1. Raise the vehicle on a lift or apply the parking brake, block rear wheels, and raise the front of the
vehicle. Make sure it is securely supported. 2. Remove the center console. 3. Pry the socket holder
lock (A) up using a screwdriver.
5. Rotate the socket holder retainer (A) counterclockwise, push it against the socket holder bracket
(B) then slide the socket holder to remove the
6. Remove the shift cable cover (A), and remove the three bolts securing the shift cable holder (B).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Shift Linkage, A/T > Shift
Cable, A/T > Component Information > Adjustments > Page 4652
7. Pry up the lock tab of the lock washer (C), and remove the lock bolt (D) and the lock washer,
then separate the shift cable (E) from the control
shaft (F)
8. Remove the nuts securing the shift cable bracket (A) and the grommet (B).
9. Remove the shift cable grommet, and pull out the shift cable (C).
10. Insert a new shift cable through the grommet hole (D), and install the grommet in its hole. Do
not bend the shift cable excessively. 11. Secure the shift cable bracket and the grommet with the
nuts. 12. Make sure that the transmission is in the R position at the selector control shaft. 13. Install
the control lever (A) over the control shaft (B).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Shift Linkage, A/T > Shift
Cable, A/T > Component Information > Adjustments > Page 4653
14. Install the shift cable holder (C) on the holder bracket (D) and tighten the bolts loosely. Tighten
the bolts (E) in the lateral position to the specified
15. Secure the control lever with a new lock washer (G) and the lock bolt (H), then bend the lock
tab of the lock washer against the bolt head. 16. Install the shift cable cover (I). 17. Install the shift
cable on the shift lever, and adjust the cable.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Transmission Cooler, A/T
> Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > A/T - Cooler Flushing Equipment Information
Transmission Cooler: Technical Service Bulletins A/T - Cooler Flushing Equipment Information
89-022
(Supersedes 89-022, dated June 18, 2004, to update the information marked by asterisks)
Before installing an overhauled or remanufactured A/T, you must thoroughly clean the ATF cooler
to prevent system contamination. Failure to do so could cause a repeat A/T failure. The ATF Cooler
Cleaner (PIN GTHTTCF6H) is a portable, electrically operated special tool that cleans the ATF
cooler with high- pressure, heated ATF. This cleaning action melts down waxy varnish residue left
by burnt ATF and purges metal particles, clutch material, and other contaminants. The ATF Cooler
Cleaner has these features:
^ Uses about 9.5 gallons of Honda ATF-Z1, which gets filtered and recirculated.
^ Heats ATF to a temperature of 1400 to 150°F and then pumps it through the ATF cooler at high
pressure (100 psi) using a pulsating action and air purging. Switching the hoses cleans the ATF
cooler in the reverse direction.
This service bulletin gives you information for ordering and servicing this special tool, and guides
you through the entire ATF cooler cleaning process.
*REQUIRED MATERIALS
ORDERING INFORMATION
Additional ATF cooler cleaners or magnetic nonbypass spin-on filters can be ordered through the
Honda Tool and Equipment Program. To order on the iN, click on SERVICE, then Service Bay,
then Tool and Equipment Program. From the Tool and Equipment Program menu, click on the
Online Catalog tab, and then search for the desired filter pack by part number.*
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Transmission Cooler, A/T
> Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > A/T - Cooler Flushing Equipment Information > Page 4658
TOOL DESCRIPTION
CLEANING PROCEDURE
The cleaning procedure involves hot fluid under high pressure. Check the security of all hoses and
connections. Always wear safety glasses or a face shield, gloves, and protective clothing. If you get
ATF in your eyes or on your skin, rinse with water immediately.
Improper use of the ATF cooler cleaner can result in burns and other serious injuries.
Always wear eye protection and protective clothing, and follow all instructions in this bulletin.
1. Plug the ATF cooler cleaner into a 110 V grounded electrical outlet.
NOTICE
Make sure the outlet has no other appliances (light fixtures, drop lights, extension cords) plugged
into it. Also, never plug the cooler cleaner into an extension cord or drop light cord; you would
damage the unit.
2. Flip the HEAT toggle switch to ON. Wait 1 hour for the cooler cleaner to reach its operating
temperature. (The cooler cleaner is ready to use when the temperature gauge reads 140° to
150°F.)
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Transmission Cooler, A/T
> Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > A/T - Cooler Flushing Equipment Information > Page 4659
3. Connect the appropriate fittings to the ATF cooler inlet and outlet lines. Connect the red hose to
the cooler outlet line (the line going to the external filter). Connect the blue hose to the cooler inlet
line.
NOTICE
The quick connect fitting has a one-way check valve to keep ATF from entering your shop's air
system. Do not remove or replace the fitting. Attach the coupler provided with the cooler cleaner to
your shop air line if your coupler is not compatible.
5. Flip the MOTOR toggle switch to ON, and let the pump run for 5 minutes. While the pump is
running, open and close the air purge valve periodically to cause agitation and improve the
cleaning process.
6. Flip the MOTOR toggle switch to OFF with the air purge valve open. Leave the air purge valve
open for at least 15 seconds to purge the lines of residual ATF.
7. Disconnect the red and blue hoses from the ATF cooler, then connect the red hose to the cooler
inlet line.
9. Flip the MOTOR toggle switch to ON, and let the pump run for 5 minutes. While the pump is
running, open and close the air purge valve periodically.
10. Flip the MOTOR toggle switch to OFF with the air purge valve open. Leave the air purge valve
open for at least 15 seconds to purge the lines of residual ATF.
11. Disconnect the red and blue hoses from the ATF cooler lines. Connect the red and blue hoses
to each other.
12. Disconnect the shop air from the air purge valve. Disconnect and stow the coupler if used.
13. Disconnect and stow the fittings from the ATF cooler inlet and outlet lines.
TOOL MAINTENANCE
Follow these instructions to keep the ATF cooler cleaner working properly:
*^ Replace the two magnetic nonbypass spin-on filters every 20 hours, based on hour meter
reading. For more information on filter replacement, see the
January 2008 Honda ServiceNews article, Hour Meter Tells You When to Replace ATF Cooler
Cleaner Filters.*
^ Fill the tank so the ATF is 4.5 inches from the top of the filler hole; do not overfill.
NOTE:
If the fluid level is low, the red indicator above the HEAT toggle switch comes on and the tank
heater will not work.
Disclaimer
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Transmission Fluid
Warmer - A/T > Component Information > Service and Repair
1. Remove the splash shield. 2. Drain the engine coolant. 3. Make sure you have the anti-theft
code for the audio system or the navigation system (if equipped), then write down the audio
presets. 4. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery, then disconnect the positive cable. 5.
Remove the battery hold-down bracket, and remove the battery and the battery tray. 6. Remove
the air cleaner assembly and the intake air duct. 7. Remove the battery base and the resonator. 8.
Disconnect the water by-pass hoses (A) and the ATF warmer hoses (B) from the ATF warmer (C),
and turn the hose ends up to prevent fluid from
flowing out.
10. Install anew ATF warmer on its bracket (D). 11. Slide the water by-pass hoses to the ATF
warmer, and secure the hoses with the clips. 12. Slide the ATF warmer hoses over the ATF
warmer lines (E) until the hose ends contact the bulge (F) and secure the hoses with the clip (G) at
6-8
13. Install the battery base and the resonator. 14. Install the intake air duct and the air cleaner
assembly. 15. Install the battery tray and the battery, then secure the battery with its hold-down
bracket. 16. Reconnect the positive cable to the battery, then connect the negative cable. 17. Install
the splash shield. 18. Check the ATF level, and add ATF to proper level if necessary. 19. Fill the
engine cooling system with recommended coolant. 20. Start the engine in P or N, and warm it up to
normal operating temperature (the radiator fan comes on). Turn off the engine, and recheck the
ATF
level.
21. Enter the anti-theft code for the audio system or the navigation system (if equipped), then enter
the audio presets. Set the clock (on vehicles
without navigation).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Transmission Position
Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Locations
1. Remove the air cleaner assembly and the intake air duct. 2. Disconnect the transmission range
switch harness connector (A).
3. Check for continuity between terminals at the harness connector. There should be continuity
between the terminals in the following table for each
switch position.
4. Transmission range switch test is completed if the test results are OK.
5. Raise the vehicle on a lift, or apply the parking brake, block the rear wheels, and raise the front
of the vehicle. Make sure it is securely supported. 6. Remove the transmission range switch cover.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Transmission Position
Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Locations > Page 4671
7. Disconnect the transmission range switch connector.
8. Check for continuity between terminals at the switch connector. There should be continuity
between the terminals in the following table for each
switch position.
9. If the transmission range switch test is OK, replace the faulty transmission range switch harness.
10. Remove the transmission range switch, and check the end of the selector control shaft (A).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Transmission Position
Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Locations > Page 4672
11. If the measurement at the end of the selector control shaft end is within the standard, replace
the transmission range switch. If the measurement is
out of the standard, repair the selector control shaft end, and recheck the transmission range
switch continuity.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Transmission Position
Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Locations > Page 4673
Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: Service and Repair
1. Raise the vehicle on a lift, or apply the parking brake, block the rear wheels, and raise the front
of the vehicle. Make sure it is securely supported. 2. Shift the shift lever to N. 3. Remove the
transmission range switch cover.
5. Make sure the selector control shaft is in the N position. If necessary, move the shift lever to the
N position from the P position.
6. Align the cutouts (A) on the rotary-frame with the neutral positioning cutouts (B) on the
transmission range switch (C), then put a 2.0 mm (0.08
in.) feeler gauge blade (D) in the cutouts to hold the switch in the N position.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Transmission Position
Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Locations > Page 4674
7. Install the transmission range switch (A) gently on the selector control shaft (B) while holding it in
the N position with the 2.0 mm (0.08 in.) blade
(C).
8. Tighten the bolts on the transmission range switch while you continue holding the N position. Do
not move the transmission range switch when
9. Check the connectors for rust, dirt, or oil, clean or repair if necessary, then connect the
connector securely.
10. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). Move the shift lever through all positions, and check the
transmission range switch synchronization with the
11. Check that the engine will start in P and N, and will not start in any other shift lever position. 12.
Check that the back-up lights come on when the shift lever is in R. 13. Allow the front wheels to
rotate freely, then start the engine, and check the shift lever operation. 14. Install the transmission
range switch cover.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Transmission Position
Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Locations > Page 4675
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Transmission Speed
Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Locations
Transmission Speed Sensor: Service and Repair Input Shaft (Mainshaft) Speed Sensor
Replacement
Input Shaft (Mainshaft) Speed Sensor Replacement
1. Remove the air cleaner assembly and the intake air duct. 2. Remove the harness clamp (A) from
its bracket, and remove the air cleaner housing bracket (B).
3. Disconnect the input shaft (mainshaft) speed sensor connector, and remove the input shaft
(mainshaft) speed sensor (A).
4. Install a new O-ring (B) on the new input shaft (mainshaft) speed sensor, then install the input
shaft (mainshaft) speed sensor in the transmission
housing.
5. Check the connector for rust, dirt, or oil, then connect the connector securely. 6. Install the air
cleaner housing bracket, and install the harness clamp on its bracket. 7. Install the intake air duct
and the air cleaner assembly.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Transmission Speed
Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Service and Repair > Input Shaft (Mainshaft) Speed Sensor Replacement > Page
4686
Transmission Speed Sensor: Service and Repair Output Shaft (Countershaft) Speed Sensor
Replacement
1. Remove the air cleaner assembly and the intake air duct. 2. Disconnect the output shaft
(countershaft) speed sensor connector, and remove the output shaft (countershaft) speed sensor
(A).
3. Install a new O-ring (B) on a new output shaft (countershaft) speed sensor, then install the
output shaft (countershaft) speed sensor in the
transmission housing.
4. Check the connector for rust, dirt, or oil, then connect the connector securely. 5. Install the intake
air duct and the air cleaner assembly.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Transmission
Temperature Sensor/Switch, A/T > Component Information > Locations
1. Raise the vehicle on a lift, or apply the parking brake, block the rear wheels, and raise the front
of the vehicle. Make sure it is securely supported. 2. Remove the splash shield. 3. Disconnect the
shift solenoid harness connector.
4. Measure the ATF temperature sensor resistance between shift solenoid harness connector
terminals No. 6 and No. 7.
5. If the resistance is out of standard, go to step 6, and replace the ATF temperature sensor and
solenoid harness. The ATF temperature sensor is not
^ If the resistance is within the standard, the test is complete, connect the connector securely, and
install the splash shield.
6. Remove the drain plug (A), and drain the automatic transmission fluid (ATF).
7. Reinstall the drain plug with a new sealing washer (B). 8. Remove the shift solenoid valve cover
(A), the dowel pins (B), the gasket (C), and the harness clamp bracket (D).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Transmission
Temperature Sensor/Switch, A/T > Component Information > Locations > Page 4692
9. Remove the shift solenoid harness connector (E), and replace it.
10. Install a new O-ring (F) on a new shift solenoid harness connector, and install the connector in
the transmission housing. 11. Connect WHT harnesses and ORN harness connector to shift
solenoid valve B. ATF temperature sensor is assembled in the connector with WHT
harnesses.
13. Install the shift solenoid valve cover, the dowel pins, a new gasket, and the harness clamp
bracket. 14. Check the connector for rust, dirt, or oil, then connect the connector securely. 15. Refill
the transmission with ATF. 16. Install the splash shield.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Transmission
Temperature Sensor/Switch, A/T > Component Information > Locations > Page 4693
Transmission Temperature Sensor/Switch: Service and Repair
1. Raise the vehicle on a lift, or apply the parking brake, block the rear wheels, and raise the front
of the vehicle. Make sure it is securely supported. 2. Remove the splash shield. 3. Disconnect the
shift solenoid harness connector.
4. Measure the ATF temperature sensor resistance between shift solenoid harness connector
terminals No. 6 and No. 7.
5. If the resistance is out of standard, go to step 6, and replace the ATF temperature sensor and
solenoid harness. The ATF temperature sensor is not
^ If the resistance is within the standard, the test is complete, connect the connector securely, and
install the splash shield.
6. Remove the drain plug (A), and drain the automatic transmission fluid (ATF).
7. Reinstall the drain plug with a new sealing washer (B). 8. Remove the shift solenoid valve cover
(A), the dowel pins (B), the gasket (C), and the harness clamp bracket (D).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Transmission
Temperature Sensor/Switch, A/T > Component Information > Locations > Page 4694
9. Remove the shift solenoid harness connector (E), and replace it.
10. Install a new O-ring (F) on a new shift solenoid harness connector, and install the connector in
the transmission housing. 11. Connect WHT harnesses and ORN harness connector to shift
solenoid valve B. ATF temperature sensor is assembled in the connector with WHT
harnesses.
13. Install the shift solenoid valve cover, the dowel pins, a new gasket, and the harness clamp
bracket. 14. Check the connector for rust, dirt, or oil, then connect the connector securely. 15. Refill
the transmission with ATF. 16. Install the splash shield.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Clutch, M/T > Clutch Hydraulic System > Clutch Fluid >
Component Information > Specifications
Clutch Fluid: Specifications
Honda Heavy Duty Brake Fluid DOT 3 Always use Honda DOT 3 Brake Fluid. Using a non-Honda
brake fluid can cause corrosion and decrease the life of the system.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Clutch, M/T > Clutch Hydraulic System > Clutch Master Cylinder
> Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Clutch Master Cylinder: > 11-005 > Mar >
11 > M/T - Clutch Pedal Pops/Squeaks/Clicks When Actuated
Clutch Master Cylinder: Customer Interest M/T - Clutch Pedal Pops/Squeaks/Clicks When
Actuated
11-005
Applies To: 2008-09 Accord - ALL with M/T 2006-10 Civic - ALL with M/T 2006-10 Element - ALL
with M/T
SYMPTOM
The clutch pedal pops, squeaks, or clicks when you press or release it.
PROBABLE CAUSE
The clutch master cylinder has insufficient clearance between the piston and the push rod.
CORRECTIVE ACTION
PARTS INFORMATION
(Includes clutch master cylinder, 0-ring, seal, and snap pin) Accord and Civic: P/N 46920-SNA-A03
Element P/N 46920-57A-A04
REQUIRED MATERIALS
Honda Genuine DOT 3 Brake Fluid: P/N 08798-9008 (Each repair requires one bottle.)
Civic: 1.2hours
REPAIR PROCEDURE
Disclaimer
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Clutch, M/T > Clutch Hydraulic System > Clutch Master Cylinder
> Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Clutch Master Cylinder: >
11-005 > Mar > 11 > M/T - Clutch Pedal Pops/Squeaks/Clicks When Actuated
Clutch Master Cylinder: All Technical Service Bulletins M/T - Clutch Pedal Pops/Squeaks/Clicks
When Actuated
11-005
Applies To: 2008-09 Accord - ALL with M/T 2006-10 Civic - ALL with M/T 2006-10 Element - ALL
with M/T
SYMPTOM
The clutch pedal pops, squeaks, or clicks when you press or release it.
PROBABLE CAUSE
The clutch master cylinder has insufficient clearance between the piston and the push rod.
CORRECTIVE ACTION
PARTS INFORMATION
(Includes clutch master cylinder, 0-ring, seal, and snap pin) Accord and Civic: P/N 46920-SNA-A03
Element P/N 46920-57A-A04
REQUIRED MATERIALS
Honda Genuine DOT 3 Brake Fluid: P/N 08798-9008 (Each repair requires one bottle.)
Civic: 1.2hours
REPAIR PROCEDURE
Disclaimer
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Clutch, M/T > Clutch Pedal Assembly > Component Information
> Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Clutch Pedal Assembly: > 11-005 > Mar > 11 > M/T - Clutch Pedal
Pops/Squeaks/Clicks When Actuated
Clutch Pedal Assembly: Customer Interest M/T - Clutch Pedal Pops/Squeaks/Clicks When
Actuated
11-005
Applies To: 2008-09 Accord - ALL with M/T 2006-10 Civic - ALL with M/T 2006-10 Element - ALL
with M/T
SYMPTOM
The clutch pedal pops, squeaks, or clicks when you press or release it.
PROBABLE CAUSE
The clutch master cylinder has insufficient clearance between the piston and the push rod.
CORRECTIVE ACTION
PARTS INFORMATION
(Includes clutch master cylinder, 0-ring, seal, and snap pin) Accord and Civic: P/N 46920-SNA-A03
Element P/N 46920-57A-A04
REQUIRED MATERIALS
Honda Genuine DOT 3 Brake Fluid: P/N 08798-9008 (Each repair requires one bottle.)
Civic: 1.2hours
REPAIR PROCEDURE
Disclaimer
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Clutch, M/T > Clutch Pedal Assembly > Component Information
> Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Clutch Pedal Assembly: > 11-005 > Mar > 11 > M/T -
Clutch Pedal Pops/Squeaks/Clicks When Actuated
Clutch Pedal Assembly: All Technical Service Bulletins M/T - Clutch Pedal Pops/Squeaks/Clicks
When Actuated
11-005
Applies To: 2008-09 Accord - ALL with M/T 2006-10 Civic - ALL with M/T 2006-10 Element - ALL
with M/T
SYMPTOM
The clutch pedal pops, squeaks, or clicks when you press or release it.
PROBABLE CAUSE
The clutch master cylinder has insufficient clearance between the piston and the push rod.
CORRECTIVE ACTION
PARTS INFORMATION
(Includes clutch master cylinder, 0-ring, seal, and snap pin) Accord and Civic: P/N 46920-SNA-A03
Element P/N 46920-57A-A04
REQUIRED MATERIALS
Honda Genuine DOT 3 Brake Fluid: P/N 08798-9008 (Each repair requires one bottle.)
Civic: 1.2hours
REPAIR PROCEDURE
Disclaimer
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Clutch, M/T > Clutch Switch > Component Information >
Locations
M/T
1. Disconnect the clutch interlock switch 2P connector
2. Remove the clutch interlock switch (B). 3. Check for continuity between the terminals according
to the table.
- If OK, install the clutch interlock switch, and adjust the pedal height.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Clutch, M/T > Clutch Switch > Component Information >
Locations > Page 4736
Clutch Pedal, Clutch Pedal Position Switch, and Clutch Interlock Switch Adjustment
NOTE: ^
^ If there is no clearance between the master cylinder piston and pushrod, the release bearing will
be held against the diaphragm spring, which can result in clutch slippage or other clutch problems.
1. Lift up the carpet (A). At the insulator cutout, measure the pedal height from the right side of the
pedal pad (B).
2. Loosen the clutch pedal position switch locknut (A), and back off the clutch pedal position switch
(B) until it no longer touches the clutch pedal
(C).
3. Loosen the clutch pushrod locknut (D), and turn the pushrod (E) in or out to get the specified
height (F), stroke (G), free play (H), and
F Clutch Pedal Height: 157 mm (6.18 in.) G Clutch Pedal Stroke: 130 - 140 mm (5.12 - 5.51 in.) H
Clutch Pedal Free Play: 10 - 18 mm (0.39 - 0.71 in.) Clutch Pedal Disengagement Height: 77 mm
(3.03 in.)
4. Tighten the clutch pushrod locknut. 5. With the clutch pedal released, turn in the clutch pedal
position switch until it contacts the clutch pedal. 6. Turn in the clutch pedal position switch an
additional 3/4 to 1 turn. 7. Tighten the clutch pedal position switch locknut. 8. Loosen the clutch
interlock switch locknut (J). 9. Press the clutch pedal to the floor.
10. Release the clutch pedal 9 - 12 mm (0.35 - 0.47 in.) from the fully pressed position, and hold it
there. Adjust the position of the clutch interlock
switch (K) so the engine will start with the clutch pedal in this position.
11. Tighten the clutch interlock switch locknut. 12. Check the clutch operation.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Continuously Variable Transmission/Transaxle, CVT >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > A/T - Cooler Flushing Equipment Information
Continuously Variable Transmission/Transaxle: Technical Service Bulletins A/T - Cooler Flushing
Equipment Information
89-022
(Supersedes 89-022, dated June 18, 2004, to update the information marked by asterisks)
Before installing an overhauled or remanufactured A/T, you must thoroughly clean the ATF cooler
to prevent system contamination. Failure to do so could cause a repeat A/T failure. The ATF Cooler
Cleaner (PIN GTHTTCF6H) is a portable, electrically operated special tool that cleans the ATF
cooler with high- pressure, heated ATF. This cleaning action melts down waxy varnish residue left
by burnt ATF and purges metal particles, clutch material, and other contaminants. The ATF Cooler
Cleaner has these features:
^ Uses about 9.5 gallons of Honda ATF-Z1, which gets filtered and recirculated.
^ Heats ATF to a temperature of 1400 to 150°F and then pumps it through the ATF cooler at high
pressure (100 psi) using a pulsating action and air purging. Switching the hoses cleans the ATF
cooler in the reverse direction.
This service bulletin gives you information for ordering and servicing this special tool, and guides
you through the entire ATF cooler cleaning process.
*REQUIRED MATERIALS
ORDERING INFORMATION
Additional ATF cooler cleaners or magnetic nonbypass spin-on filters can be ordered through the
Honda Tool and Equipment Program. To order on the iN, click on SERVICE, then Service Bay,
then Tool and Equipment Program. From the Tool and Equipment Program menu, click on the
Online Catalog tab, and then search for the desired filter pack by part number.*
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Continuously Variable Transmission/Transaxle, CVT >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > A/T - Cooler Flushing Equipment Information > Page 4741
TOOL DESCRIPTION
CLEANING PROCEDURE
The cleaning procedure involves hot fluid under high pressure. Check the security of all hoses and
connections. Always wear safety glasses or a face shield, gloves, and protective clothing. If you get
ATF in your eyes or on your skin, rinse with water immediately.
Improper use of the ATF cooler cleaner can result in burns and other serious injuries.
Always wear eye protection and protective clothing, and follow all instructions in this bulletin.
1. Plug the ATF cooler cleaner into a 110 V grounded electrical outlet.
NOTICE
Make sure the outlet has no other appliances (light fixtures, drop lights, extension cords) plugged
into it. Also, never plug the cooler cleaner into an extension cord or drop light cord; you would
damage the unit.
2. Flip the HEAT toggle switch to ON. Wait 1 hour for the cooler cleaner to reach its operating
temperature. (The cooler cleaner is ready to use when the temperature gauge reads 140° to
150°F.)
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Continuously Variable Transmission/Transaxle, CVT >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > A/T - Cooler Flushing Equipment Information > Page 4742
3. Connect the appropriate fittings to the ATF cooler inlet and outlet lines. Connect the red hose to
the cooler outlet line (the line going to the external filter). Connect the blue hose to the cooler inlet
line.
NOTICE
The quick connect fitting has a one-way check valve to keep ATF from entering your shop's air
system. Do not remove or replace the fitting. Attach the coupler provided with the cooler cleaner to
your shop air line if your coupler is not compatible.
5. Flip the MOTOR toggle switch to ON, and let the pump run for 5 minutes. While the pump is
running, open and close the air purge valve periodically to cause agitation and improve the
cleaning process.
6. Flip the MOTOR toggle switch to OFF with the air purge valve open. Leave the air purge valve
open for at least 15 seconds to purge the lines of residual ATF.
7. Disconnect the red and blue hoses from the ATF cooler, then connect the red hose to the cooler
inlet line.
9. Flip the MOTOR toggle switch to ON, and let the pump run for 5 minutes. While the pump is
running, open and close the air purge valve periodically.
10. Flip the MOTOR toggle switch to OFF with the air purge valve open. Leave the air purge valve
open for at least 15 seconds to purge the lines of residual ATF.
11. Disconnect the red and blue hoses from the ATF cooler lines. Connect the red and blue hoses
to each other.
12. Disconnect the shop air from the air purge valve. Disconnect and stow the coupler if used.
13. Disconnect and stow the fittings from the ATF cooler inlet and outlet lines.
TOOL MAINTENANCE
Follow these instructions to keep the ATF cooler cleaner working properly:
*^ Replace the two magnetic nonbypass spin-on filters every 20 hours, based on hour meter
reading. For more information on filter replacement, see the
January 2008 Honda ServiceNews article, Hour Meter Tells You When to Replace ATF Cooler
Cleaner Filters.*
^ Fill the tank so the ATF is 4.5 inches from the top of the filler hole; do not overfill.
NOTE:
If the fluid level is low, the red indicator above the HEAT toggle switch comes on and the tank
heater will not work.
Disclaimer
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Drive Axles, Bearings and Joints > Axle Shaft Assembly >
Component Information > Locations
Driveshaft Inspection
1. Check the inboard boot (A) and the outboard boot (B) on the driveshaft (C) for cracks, damage,
leaking grease, and loose boot bands (D). If any
2. Check the driveshaft for cracks and damage. If any damage is found, replace the driveshaft. 3.
Check the inboard joint (E) and the outboard joint (F) for cracks and damage. If any damage is
found, replace the inboard joint or the outboard
joint as an assembly.
4. Hold the inboard joint and turn the front wheel by hand, then make sure the joint is not
excessively loose. If necessary, replace the inboard joint or
Driveshaft Removal
Driveshaft Removal
1. Raise the vehicle on a lift. 2. Remove the front wheels. 3. Lift up the locking tab (A) on the
spindle nut (B), then remove the nut.
4. Drain the transmission fluid, then reinstall the drain plug with a new washer. 5. Remove the nuts
and bolt, then separate the lower arm with a prybar.
6. Separate the driveshaft outboard joint from the front wheel hub using a plastic hammer.
7. Pull the knuckle outward, and remove the driveshaft outboard joint from the front wheel hub.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Drive Axles, Bearings and Joints > Axle Shaft Assembly >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Removal and Replacement > Page 4751
8. Right driveshaft: Drive the inboard joint (A) off of the intermediate shaft using a drift and hammer
(M/T model). Pry the inboard joint (B) from
the differential with a prybar (A/T model). Remove the driveshaft as an assembly.
9. Left driveshaft: Pry the-inboard joint (A) from the differential with a prybar. Remove the driveshaft
as an assembly.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Drive Axles, Bearings and Joints > Axle Shaft Assembly >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Removal and Replacement > Page 4752
Driveshaft Installation
Driveshaft Installation
NOTE: Before starting installation, make sure the mating surfaces of the joint and the splined
section are not dusty or dirty.
1. Apply about 5 g (0.18 oz) moly 60 paste (P/N 08734-0001) to the contact area (A) of the
outboard joint and the front wheel bearing.
2. Install a new set ring (A) onto the set ring groove of the driveshaft.
3. M/T model: Apply specified super high temp urea grease (P/N 08798-9002) to the whole splined
surface (A) of the right driveshaft. After applying
grease, remove the grease from the splined grooves at intervals of 2 - 3 splines and from the set
ring groove (B) so that air can bleed from the intermediate shaft.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Drive Axles, Bearings and Joints > Axle Shaft Assembly >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Removal and Replacement > Page 4753
4. Clean the areas where the driveshaft contacts the differential thoroughly with solvent or brake
cleaner, and dry with compressed air.
5. Insert the inboard end (A) of the driveshaft into the differential (B) or intermediate shaft (C) (M/T
model) until the set ring (D) locks in the groove
(E).
6. Install the outboard joint (A) into the front wheel hub (B).
7. Install the knuckle (A) onto the lower arm (B). During installation, install a new flange bolt and
new self-locking nuts. After lightly tightening all
three fasteners, tighten them to the specified torque in the following order; the nut on the front (C),
the nut on the nut on the rear (D), then the bolt (E).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Drive Axles, Bearings and Joints > Axle Shaft Assembly >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Removal and Replacement > Page 4754
8. Apply a small amount of engine oil to the seating surface of the new spindle nut (A).
9. Install a new spindle nut, then tighten the nut. After tightening, use a drift to stake the spindle nut
shoulder (B) against the driveshaft.
10. Clean the mating surfaces of the brake discs and the front wheels, then install the front wheels.
11. Turn the front wheels by hand, and make sure there is no interference between the driveshaft
and surrounding parts. 12. Refill the transmission with the recommended transmission fluid. 13.
Lower the vehicle on the lift. 14. Check the front wheel alignment, and adjust it if necessary. 15.
Test-drive the vehicle.
1. Remove the inboard joint. 2. Remove the double loop band or low profile bands.
^ If the band is a double loop type, lift up the band end, then push it into the clip.
^ If the band is a low profile type, pinch the band using a commercially available boot band pliers.
1. Drain the transmission fluid. Reinstall the drain plug with a new washer. 2. Remove the right
driveshaft. 3. Remove the lower torque rod bracket (A).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Drive Axles, Bearings and Joints > Axle Shaft Assembly >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Removal and Replacement > Page 4758
4. Remove the flange bolts.
5. Remove the intermediate shaft (A) from the differential. Hold the intermediate shaft horizontal
until it is clear of the differential to prevent
1. Drain the transmission fluid. Reinstall the drain plug with a new washer. 2. Remove the right
driveshaft. 3. Remove the three heat shield cover bolts, then remove the heat shield cover (A).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Drive Axles, Bearings and Joints > Axle Shaft Assembly >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Removal and Replacement > Page 4759
4. Remove the flange bolt (A) and the two shoulder bolts (B).
5. Remove the intermediate shaft (A) from the differential. Hold the intermediate shaft horizontal
until it is clear of the differential to prevent
3. Insert the intermediate shaft assembly (A) into the differential until the set ring locks in the
groove.
5. Install the lower torque rod bracket (A), and tighten the flange bolts in the sequence shown.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Drive Axles, Bearings and Joints > Axle Shaft Assembly >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Removal and Replacement > Page 4761
6. Install the right driveshaft. 7. Refill the transmission with the recommended transmission fluid. 8.
Test-drive the vehicle.
2. Clean the areas where the intermediate shaft contacts the differential thoroughly with solvent or
brake cleaner, and dry with compressed air.
3. Insert the intermediate shaft assembly (A) into the differential until the set ring locks in the
groove.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Drive Axles, Bearings and Joints > Axle Shaft Assembly >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Removal and Replacement > Page 4762
4. Install the flange bolt (A) and the two shoulder bolts (B).
5. Install the heat shield cover (A), then tighten the three heat shield cover bolts.
6. Install the right driveshaft. 7. Refill the transmission with the recommended transmission fluid. 8.
Test-drive the vehicle.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Drive Axles, Bearings and Joints > Axle Shaft Assembly >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Removal and Replacement > Page 4763
Driveshaft Disassembly
Driveshaft Disassembly
^ If the boot band is a welded type (A), cut the boot band.
^ If the boot band is a double loop type (B), lift up the band end (C), and push it into the clip (D).
^ If the boot band is a low profile type (E), pinch the boot band using the commercially available
boot band pliers (F).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Drive Axles, Bearings and Joints > Axle Shaft Assembly >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Removal and Replacement > Page 4764
3. Make marks (A) on each roller (B) and inboard joint (C) to identify the locations of rollers and
grooves in the inboard joint. Then remove the
inboard joint on the shop towel (D). Be careful not to drop the rollers when separating them from
the inboard joint.
4. Make marks (A) on the rollers (B) and spider (C) to identify the locations of the rollers on the
spider, then remove the rollers.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Drive Axles, Bearings and Joints > Axle Shaft Assembly >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Removal and Replacement > Page 4765
5. Remove the circlip (D). 6. Mark the spider and driveshaft (E) to identify the position of the spider
on the shaft. 7. Remove the spider. 8. Wrap the splines on the driveshaft with vinyl tape (A) to
prevent damaging the boot.
1. Remove the boot bands (A). Lift up the three tabs (B) with a screwdriver. Be careful not to
damage the boot.
2. Slide the outboard boot (A) partially to the inboard joint side. Be careful not to damage the boot.
3. Wipe off the grease to expose the driveshaft and the outboard joint inner race. 4. Make a mark
(A) on the driveshaft (B) at the same level as the outboard joint rim (C).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Drive Axles, Bearings and Joints > Axle Shaft Assembly >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Removal and Replacement > Page 4766
5. Securely clamp the driveshaft in a bench vise with a shop towel. 6. Remove the outboard joint
(A) using the threaded adapter (B) and a commercially available 5/8" - 18 UNF slide hammer (C).
7. Remove the driveshaft from the bench vise. 8. Remove the stop ring from the driveshaft.
9. Wrap the splines on the driveshaft with vinyl tape (A) to prevent damaging the boot.
10. Remove the outboard boot. Be careful not to damage the boot. 11. Remove the vinyl tape.
Driveshaft Reassembly
Driveshaft Reassembly
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Drive Axles, Bearings and Joints > Axle Shaft Assembly >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Removal and Replacement > Page 4767
Driveshaft
1. Wrap the splines with vinyl tape (A) to prevent damaging the inboard boot.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Drive Axles, Bearings and Joints > Axle Shaft Assembly >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Removal and Replacement > Page 4768
2. Install the inboard boot onto the driveshaft, then remove the vinyl tape. Be careful not to damage
the inboard boot. 3. Install the spider (A) onto the driveshaft by aligning the marks (B) you made on
the spider and the end of the driveshaft.
4. Fit the new circlip (C) into the driveshaft groove. Always rotate the circlip in its groove to make
sure it is fully seated. 5. Fit the rollers (A) onto the spider (B) with the high shoulders facing
outward, and note these items:
^ Reinstall the rollers in their original positions on the spider by aligning the marks (C) you made.
^ Hold the driveshaft pointed up to prevent the rollers from falling off.
6. Pack the inboard joint with the joint grease included in the new inboard boot set.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Drive Axles, Bearings and Joints > Axle Shaft Assembly >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Removal and Replacement > Page 4769
7. Fit the inboard joint onto the driveshaft and note these items:
^ Reinstall the inboard joint onto the driveshaft by aligning the marks (A) you made on the inboard
joint and the rollers.
^ Hold the driveshaft so the inboard joint is pointing up to prevent it from failing off.
8. Fit the boot ends (A) onto the driveshaft (B) and the inboard joint (C).
9. Adjust the length of the driveshaft to the figure as shown, then adjust the boots to halfway
between full compression and full extension. Doing this
prevents a vacuum or too much air in the boot, preventing it from compressing or extending
properly.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Drive Axles, Bearings and Joints > Axle Shaft Assembly >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Removal and Replacement > Page 4770
10. Install the new double loop bands (replacement part only). 11. Fit the boot ends onto the
driveshaft and the inboard joint, then install the new double loop band (A) onto the boot (B).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Drive Axles, Bearings and Joints > Axle Shaft Assembly >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Removal and Replacement > Page 4771
12. Pull up the slack in the band by hand. 13. Mark a position (A) on the band 10 - 14 mm (0.4 - 0.6
in.) from the clip (B).
14. Thread the free end of the band through the nose section of the commercially available boot
band tool KD-3191 or equivalent (A), and into the slot
15. Using a wrench on the winding mandrel of the boot band tool, tighten the band until the marked
spot (C) on the band meets the edge of the clip. 16. Lift up the boot band tool to bend the free end
of the band 90 degrees to the clip. Center-punch the clip, then fold over the remaining tail onto the
clip.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Drive Axles, Bearings and Joints > Axle Shaft Assembly >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Removal and Replacement > Page 4772
17. Unwind the boot band tool, and cut off the excess free end of the band to leave a 5 - 10 mm
(0.2 - 0.4 in.) tail protruding from the clip.
18. Bend the band end (A) by tapping it down with a hammer.
19. Repeat steps 11 through 18 for the band on the other end of the boot.
1. Wrap the splines with vinyl tape (A) to prevent damaging the outboard boot.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Drive Axles, Bearings and Joints > Axle Shaft Assembly >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Removal and Replacement > Page 4773
2. Install a new ear clamp bands (B) and outboard boot, then remove the vinyl tape. Be careful not
to damage the outboard boot. 3. Install a new stop ring (A) into the driveshaft groove (B).
4. Pack about 35 g (1.2 oz) grease included in the new outboard boot set into the driveshaft hole in
the outboard joint.
5. Insert the driveshaft (A) into the outboard joint (B) until the stop ring (C) is closed.
6. To completely seat the outboard joint, pick up the driveshaft and joint, and tap or hit them from a
height of about 10 cm (4 in.) onto a hard surface.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Drive Axles, Bearings and Joints > Axle Shaft Assembly >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Removal and Replacement > Page 4774
7. Check the alignment of the paint mark (A) you made with the outboard joint rim (B).
8. Pack the outboard joint (A) with the remaining grease included in the new outboard boot set.
9. Fit the boot ends (A) onto the driveshaft (B) and outboard joint (C).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Drive Axles, Bearings and Joints > Axle Shaft Assembly >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Removal and Replacement > Page 4775
10. Adjust the length of the driveshaft to the figure as shown, then adjust the boots to halfway
between full compression and full extension.
Doing this prevents a vacuum or too much air in the boot, preventing it from compressing or
extending properly.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Drive Axles, Bearings and Joints > Axle Shaft Assembly >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Removal and Replacement > Page 4776
11. Close the ear portion (A) of the band with a commercially available boot band pliers
Kent-Moore J-35910 or equivalent (B).
12. Check the clearance between the closed ear portion of the band. If the clearance is not within
the standard, close the ear portion of the band tighter.
13. Repeat steps 11 and 12 for the band on the other end of the boot.
1. Remove the set ring (A), the outer seal (B), and the external snap ring (C).
2. Press the intermediate shaft (A) out of the intermediate shaft bearing (B) using a press. Be
careful not to damage the bearing support ring (C) on
4. Press the intermediate shaft bearing (A) out of the bearing support (B) using the half shaft base
(C), oil seal driver (D), and a press.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Drive Axles, Bearings and Joints > Axle Shaft Assembly >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Removal and Replacement > Page 4778
Special Tools Required
1. Remove the set ring (A), the outer seal (B), and the external snap ring (C).
2. Press the intermediate shaft (A) out of the intermediate shaft bearing (B) using a press. Be
careful not to damage the bearing support ring (C) on
4. Press the intermediate shaft bearing (A) out of the bearing support (B) using the half shaft base
(C), oil seal driver (D), and a press.
Intermediate Shaft
^ Attachment, 52 x 55 mm 07746-0010400
^ Driver 07749-0010000
1. Clean the disassembled parts with solvent, and dry them with compressed air.
4. Press the intermediate shaft (A) into the new shaft bearing (B) using the 35 mm I.D. attachment
(C) and a press.
5. Seat the external snap ring (A) into the groove of the intermediate shaft (B).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Drive Axles, Bearings and Joints > Axle Shaft Assembly >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Removal and Replacement > Page 4782
6. Install the new outer seal (A) into the bearing support (B) using the oil seal driver (C) and a
press.
Intermediate Shaft
^ Driver 07749-0010000
1. Clean the disassembled parts with solvent, and dry them with compressed air.
2. Press the intermediate shaft bearing (A) into the bearing support (B) using the 52 x 55 mm
attachment (C), driver (D), and a press.
3. Seat the internal snap ring into the groove of the bearing support.
4. Press the intermediate shaft (A) into the new shaft bearing (B) using the 35 mm I.D. attachment
(C) and a press.
5. Seat the external snap ring (A) into the groove of the intermediate shaft (B).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Drive Axles, Bearings and Joints > Axle Shaft Assembly >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Removal and Replacement > Page 4784
6. Install the new outer seal (A) into the bearing support (B) using the oil seal driver (C) and a
press.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Drive Axles, Bearings and Joints > Axle Shaft Assembly >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Page 4785
Special Tools
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Drive Axles, Bearings and Joints > Wheel Bearing >
Component Information > Testing and Inspection
1. Raise the vehicle, and support it with safety stands in the proper locations. 2. Remove the
wheels. 3. Install suitable flat washers (A) and the wheel nuts. Tighten the nuts to the specified
torque to hold the brake disc or the, brake drum securely
4. Attach the dial gauge. Place the dial gauge against the hub flange. 5. Measure the bearing end
play by moving the brake disc or the brake drum inward and outward.
Front/Rear:
6. If the bearing end play measurement is more than the standard, replace the wheel bearing or the
hub bearing unit.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Drive Axles, Bearings and Joints > Wheel Bearing >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Front Suspension
Knucle/Hub/Wheel Bearing
^ Attachment, 78 x 90 mm 07GAD-SD40101
^ Attachment, 62 x 68 mm 07746-0010500
Knuckle/Hub Replacement
1. Raise the front of the vehicle, and support it with safety stands in the proper locations.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Drive Axles, Bearings and Joints > Wheel Bearing >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Front Suspension > Page 4791
2. Remove the wheel nuts (A) and the front wheel.
3. Remove the brake hose mounting bolt (A) from the damper.
4. Remove the brake caliper bracket mounting bolts (B), then remove the caliper assembly (C) from
the knuckle. To prevent damage to the caliper
assembly or brake hose, use a short piece of wire to hang the caliper assembly from the
undercarriage. Do not twist the brake hose excessively.
5. Remove the wheel speed sensor (A) from the knuckle (B). Do not disconnect the wheel speed
sensor connector.
6. Raise the stake (A), then remove the spindle nut (B).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Drive Axles, Bearings and Joints > Wheel Bearing >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Front Suspension > Page 4792
7. Remove the brake disc. 8. Check the front hub for damage and cracks. 9. Remove the cotter pin
(A) from the tie-rod end ball joint, then remove the nut (B).
10. Disconnect the tie-rod end ball joint from the knuckle using the ball joint remover. 11. Remove
the flange bolt and the self-locking nuts from the lower arm (A).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Drive Axles, Bearings and Joints > Wheel Bearing >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Front Suspension > Page 4793
12. Disconnect the lower ball joint (E) from the lower arm. 13. Remove the damper pinch bolts (A)
and the self locking nuts (B) from the damper.
14. Remove the driveshaft outboard joint (C) from the knuckle (D) by tapping the driveshaft end (E)
with a soft face hammer while drawing the hub
NOTE: ^
Do not pull the driveshaft end outward. The driveshaft inboard joint may come apart.
^ During installation, apply grease to the mating surfaces of the wheel bearing and driveshaft
outboard joint.
15. Remove the lock pin (A) from the lower ball joint, then remove the castle nut (B).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Drive Axles, Bearings and Joints > Wheel Bearing >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Front Suspension > Page 4794
16. Disconnect the lower ball joint (C) from the knuckle using the ball joint thread protector and the
ball joint remover. 17. Install the knuckle/hub in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
^ First install all the components, and lightly tighten the bolts and nuts, then raise the suspension to
load it with the vehicle's weight before fully tightening to the specified torque values.
^ Be careful not to damage the ball joint boot when connecting the knuckle.
^ Before connecting the lower ball joint to the knuckle, degrease the threaded section and tapered
portion of the ball joint pin, the ball joint connecting hole, the threaded section and mating surfaces
of the castle nut.
^ Torque the castle nut to the lower torque specification, then tighten it only far enough to align the
slot with the ball joint pin hole. Do not align the castle nut by loosening it.
^ Before installing the spindle nut, apply a small amount of engine oil to the seating surface of the
nut. After tightening, use a drift to stake the spindle nut shoulder against the driveshaft.
^ Before installing the brake disc, clean the mating surfaces of the front hub and the inside of the
brake disc.
^ Before installing the wheel, clean the mating surfaces of the brake disc and the inside of the
wheel.
1. Separate the hub (A) from the knuckle (B) using the hub dis/assembly tool and a hydraulic press.
Hold the knuckle with the attachment (C) of the
hydraulic press or equivalent tool. Be careful not to deform the splash guard (D). Hold onto the hub
to keep it from failing when pressed clear.
2. Press the wheel bearing inner race (A) off of the hub (B) using the hub dis/assembly tool, a
commercially available bearing separator (C), and a
press.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Drive Axles, Bearings and Joints > Wheel Bearing >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Front Suspension > Page 4795
3. Remove the splash guard (A) and the snap ring (B) from the knuckle (C).
4. Press the wheel bearing (A) out of the knuckle (B) using the attachment, the driver, and a press.
5. Wash the knuckle and hub thoroughly in high flash point solvent before reassembly. 6. Press a
new wheel bearing (A) into the knuckle. (B) using the old bearing (C), a steel plate (D), the
attachment, the support base, and a press.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Drive Axles, Bearings and Joints > Wheel Bearing >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Front Suspension > Page 4796
7. Install the snap ring (A) securely in the knuckle (B).
8. Install the splash guard (C), and tighten the screws (D) to the specified torque value. 9. Install
the hub (A) onto the knuckle (B) using the attachment, the driver, the support base, and a hydraulic
press. Be careful not to distort the
1. Raise the rear of the vehicle, and support it with safety stands in the proper locations. 2. Remove
the wheel nuts (A) and the rear wheel.
3. Remove the brake hose mounting bolt (A) from the bracket.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Drive Axles, Bearings and Joints > Wheel Bearing >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Front Suspension > Page 4800
4. Remove the brake caliper bracket mounting bolts (B), then remove the caliper assembly (C) from
the knuckle. To prevent damage to the caliper
assembly or brake hose, use a short piece of wire to hang the caliper assembly from the
undercarriage. Do not twist the brake hose excessively.
6. Remove the brake disc. 7. Remove the hub bearing unit (A) and the O-ring (B).
8. Check the hub bearing unit for damage and cracks. 9. Install the hub bearing unit in the reverse
order of removal, and note these items:
^ Before installing the brake disc, clean the mating surfaces of the hub bearing unit and the inside
of the brake disc.
^ Before installing the wheel, clean the mating surfaces of the brake disc and the inside of the
wheel.
1. Raise the rear of the vehicle, and support it with safety stands in the proper locations. 2. Remove
the wheel nuts (A) and the rear wheel.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Drive Axles, Bearings and Joints > Wheel Bearing >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Front Suspension > Page 4801
3. Release the parking brake, and remove the brake drum. 4. Remove the hub bearing unit (A) and
the O-ring (B).
5. Check the hub bearing unit for damage and cracks. 6. Install the hub bearing Unit in the reverse
order of removal, and note these items:
^ Before installing the brake drum, clean the mating surfaces of the hub bearing unit and the inside
of the brake drum.
^ Before installing the wheel, clean the mating surfaces of the brake drum and the inside of the
wheel.
1. Remove the hub bearing unit. 2. Remove the splash guard (A).
3. Remove the wheel speed sensor (A), and the brake hose mounting bracket (B) from the knuckle
(C). Do not disconnect the wheel speed sensor
connector.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Drive Axles, Bearings and Joints > Wheel Bearing >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Front Suspension > Page 4802
4. Remove the parking brake cable mounting bolt (E) from the knuckle. 5. Place a floor jack under
the trailing arm to support it.
NOTE: Do not place the jack against the plate section of the lower arm. Be careful not to damage
any suspension components.
6. Remove the upper arm mounting bolt (A), and disconnect the upper arm (B) from the knuckle.
7. Remove the rear knuckle upper bracket (C). 8. Mark the cam positions of the adjusting bolt (A)
and the adjusting cam plate (B), then remove the self locking nut (C), the adjusting cam plate, and
10. Install the knuckle in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
^ First install all the components, and lightly tighten the bolts and nuts, then raise the suspension to
load it with the vehicle's weight before fully tightening to the specified torque values.
^ Align the cam positions of the adjusting bolt and the adjusting cam plate with the marked
positions when tightening.
^ Before installing the wheel, clean the mating surfaces of the brake disc and the inside of the
wheel.
1. Remove the hub bearing unit. 2. Disconnect the brake line (A) from the wheel cylinder (B).
Remove the backing plate (C) with brake shoes assembly from the knuckle.
3. Remove the wheel speed sensor (A), and the brake hose mounting bracket (B) from the knuckle
(C). Do not disconnect the wheel speed sensor
connector.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Drive Axles, Bearings and Joints > Wheel Bearing >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Front Suspension > Page 4804
4. Place a floor jack under the trailing arm to support it.
NOTE: Do not place the jack against the plate section of the lower arm. Be careful not to damage
any suspension components,
5. Remove the upper arm mounting bolt (A), and disconnect the upper arm (B) from the knuckle.
6. Remove the rear knuckle upper bracket (C). 7. Mark the cam positions of the adjusting bolt W
and the adjusting cam plate (B), then remove the self locking nut (C), the adjusting cam plate, and
9. Install the knuckle in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
^ First install all the components, and lightly tighten the bolts and nuts, then raise the suspension to
load it with the vehicle's weight before fully tightening to the specified torque values.
^ Align the cam positions of the adjusting bolt and the adjusting cam plate with the marked-,
positions when tightening.
^ Before installing the wheel, clean the mating surfaces of the brake drum and the inside of the
wheel.
^ Fill the master cylinder reservoir to the MAX (upper) level line, and bleed the brake system.
Check for a leak at the brake hose/line joint, and retighten it if necessary.
Spindle Nut
Knucle/Hub/Wheel Bearing
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Flex Plate > Component Information > Specifications
Drive Plate
1. Remove the transmission assembly. 2. Remove the drive plate (A) and the washer (B) from the
engine.
3. Install the drive plate and the washer on the engine crankshaft, and tighten the eight bolts in a
crisscross pattern in two or more steps. 4. Install the transmission assembly.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Lamps and Indicators - Transmission and Drivetrain > Lamps
and Indicators - A/T > Shift Indicator > Component Information > Locations
Circuit Schematics
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Lamps and Indicators - Transmission and Drivetrain > Lamps
and Indicators - A/T > Shift Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page
4821
Circuit Schematics
Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show
current flow, from power at the top of the diagram, to ground at the bottom.
Shared Circuits
Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that
connects one circuit to another, for example, is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it
pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or
component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring, check the operation of a
component it serves. If that component works, you know the shared wiring is OK.
Connectors
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Lamps and Indicators - Transmission and Drivetrain > Lamps
and Indicators - A/T > Shift Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page
4822
All in-line and junction connectors are numbered (C725, C416, etc.). Component connectors are
not numbered but are identified either by the name of the component if the component only has
one connector, or by a capital letter (A, B, C, etc.) if the component has more than one connector.
Below most connector numbers and component names are PHOTO and VIEW numbers. The
PHOTO number refers to a photo at Vehicle Level Locations that shows the connector's location on
the car. The VIEW number refers to an connector view at the Vehicle Level Connector Views that
shows the connector terminals, wire colors, connector cavity numbers, and other details.
The connector cavity numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector as seen
from either of the viewpoints. Except for the DLC (data link connector), disregard any numbers
molded into the connector housing.
Wires
Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the
stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number "2" next to the male
and female wire terminals at C554, for example, means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector
C554.
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the vehicle. Refer to the Power Distribution Diagram Set to get a more detailed
understanding of how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on. Individual circuit
schematics begin with a fuse. So if Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another
circuit share a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good
and power is available to the inoperative circuit.
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share the same
ground point.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Lamps and Indicators - Transmission and Drivetrain > Lamps
and Indicators - A/T > Shift Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page
4824
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Lamps and Indicators - Transmission and Drivetrain > Lamps
and Indicators - A/T > Shift Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page
4825
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Lamps and Indicators - Transmission and Drivetrain > Lamps
and Indicators - A/T > Shift Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page
4826
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Lamps and Indicators - Transmission and Drivetrain > Lamps
and Indicators - A/T > Shift Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page
4827
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Lamps and Indicators - Transmission and Drivetrain > Lamps
and Indicators - A/T > Shift Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page
4828
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Lamps and Indicators - Transmission and Drivetrain > Lamps
and Indicators - A/T > Shift Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page
4829
How to Identify Connector Terminals
How to Identify Connector Terminals
Connector terminals are numbered according to the cavities they are in. The cavities are numbered
starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side or looking at the
female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the
same. All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not
the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the
connector face.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Lamps and Indicators - Transmission and Drivetrain > Lamps
and Indicators - A/T > Shift Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page
4830
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown above is #6.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Lamps and Indicators - Transmission and Drivetrain > Lamps
and Indicators - A/T > Shift Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page
4831
The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice
connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for
all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement
terminal availability.
On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged,
replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If
any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it.
Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the
wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the
terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to
make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a
factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS.
Use the tools from Pin Tool Set. First, check the connector that you are about to repair.
- If it has a secondary terminal lock, go to Connectors With a Secondary Lock. A secondary lock,
found on most connectors on some models, is an additional locking device on the connector
housing as a backup for the primary lock on the terminal.
- If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock.
All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the
secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the
connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities.
EXAMPLE A:
2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW
TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE E:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Lamps and Indicators - Transmission and Drivetrain > Lamps
and Indicators - A/T > Shift Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page
4835
1. Remove the secondary locks.
2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW
TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE F:
All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of
connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary
in size and shape.
EXAMPLE A:
EXAMPLE B:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Lamps and Indicators - Transmission and Drivetrain > Lamps
and Indicators - A/T > Shift Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page
4837
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE C:
EXAMPLE D:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Lamps and Indicators - Transmission and Drivetrain > Lamps
and Indicators - A/T > Shift Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page
4838
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE E:
EXAMPLE F:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Lamps and Indicators - Transmission and Drivetrain > Lamps
and Indicators - A/T > Shift Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page
4839
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE G:
1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct
replacement terminal based on the wire size range
NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part
number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available
through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures.
2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool.
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3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the
wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from
the kit.)
NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did,
cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again.
4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the
anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown
in step 3.
6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact.
- If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool
over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the
stops make contact.
- If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully
squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape.
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4841
8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the following NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and
start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the
way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure
10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector.
Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too
short or when access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair.
On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged,
replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If
any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it.
1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from
Pin Tool Set.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
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2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal,
then strip about half of the insulation off that piece.
This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal.
NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will
not nick or cut off any strands of wires.
3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and
same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit
onto the stripped end of the original wire.
5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the
pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more
than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at
the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the
harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make
each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail.
7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends
of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue
NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the
stripper.
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8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the
flare begins), and close the crimper handles far
enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click,
squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open.
9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the
wire all the way into the splice connector, and
squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until
the ratchet clicks again.
10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After
crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the
connector.
12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire(s), and shield them with
nonflammable material.
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and Indicators - A/T > Shift Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page
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13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the
gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat
evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete
when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube.
NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun.
Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the
wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size)
splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select
the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in
quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures.
Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the
Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching
connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body.
1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector.
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and Indicators - A/T > Shift Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page
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2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool.
NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal
because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit.
3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal
with a replacement terminal from the appropriate
Five-Step Troubleshooting
Five-Step Troubleshooting
Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint.
Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
problem area.
Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by
tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground (certain
circuits contain a "How the Circuit Works" Diagram set). Also, trace circuits that share wiring with
the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on,
are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step
1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used
only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely
cause.
Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more
possible causes.
Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple
procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to
make tests at points that are easily accessible.
Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe
procedures.
Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire
problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure
no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur.
Test Equipment
Test Equipment
CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
1O-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up
of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to
various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is
voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital
volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is
between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM).
In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low
resistance means good continuity.
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and Indicators - A/T > Shift Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page
4846
Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a
reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is
affecting the measurement.
To order any test equipment shown, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool
numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin.
Jumper Wire
Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder
connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire
across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse.
To order any test equipment shown, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool
numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin.
Troubleshooting Precautions
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION: -
Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
- Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles.
2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part
Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place.
CAUTION: -
Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
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4847
- Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-mega
ohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that
contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
Troubleshooting Tests
Troubleshooting Tests
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt
ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest
"OHMS" range.
2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you
want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end.
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4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or
no reading (zero), means good continuity.
Testing for Voltage Drop
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem. Circuits must be operating when checking
voltage drop.
1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts
range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage
is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM
voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
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4849
160. A/T Gear Position Indicator Panel Light/Park Pin Switch (A/T)
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4850
M/T Fluid
Always use Honda MTF. Using motor oil can cause stiffer shifting because it does not contain the
proper additives.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Manual Transmission/Transaxle > Sensors and Switches - M/T
> Transmission Speed Sensor, M/T > Component Information > Diagrams
^ Honda interface module (HIM) and an iN workstation with HDS and CM update software
NOTE: ^
Use this procedure when you need to update the PCM during troubleshooting procedures.
^ Make sure HDS/HIM has the latest software version downloaded from the iN (interactive
network).
^ To ensure the latest program is installed, do a PCM update whenever the PCM is substituted or
replaced.
^ You cannot update a PCM with the program it already has. It will only accept a new program.
^ Before you update the PCM, make sure the battery is fully charged, and connect a jumper battery
(not a battery charger) to maintain system voltage.
^ Never turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0) while updating the PCM. If you turn the ignition switch
to LOCK (0) before completion, the PCM can be damaged.
^ To prevent PCM damage, do not operate anything electrical (audio system, brakes, A/C, power
windows, moon roof (if equipped), door locks, etc.) during the update.
^ If you need to diagnose the Honda interface module (HIM) because the HIM's red 3) light came
on or was flashing during the update, leave the ignition switch in the ON (II) position when you
disconnect the HIM from the data link connector (DLC). This will prevent PCM damage.
^ High temperature in the engine compartment might cause the PCM to become too hot to run the
update. If the engine has been running before this procedure, open the hood and cool the engine
compartment.
1. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), but do not start the engine. 2. Connect the HDS to the DLC
(A) located behind the driver's dashboard lower cover.
3. Make sure the HDS communicates with the PCM. if it does not, go to the DLC circuit
troubleshooting. 4. Select the INSPECTION MENU with the HDS. 5. Select the ETCS TEST, then
select the TP POSITION CHECK, and follow the HDS screen prompts.
6. Exit the HDS, then select the CM update, and follow the screen prompts to update the PCM. 7. If
the PCM has the latest software, disconnect the HDS/HIM from the DLC, and go back to the
procedure that you were doing. If the software in
the PCM is not the latest, follow the instructions on the screen. If prompted to choose the PGM-FI
system or the A/T system, make sure you update both.
NOTE: If the PCM update procedure requires you to cool the PCM, follow the screen prompts. If
you run into a problem (programming takes over 15 minutes, status bar goes over 100 D or
immobilizer indicator flashes, HDS tablet freezes, etc.) during the update procedure, follow these
steps to minimize the chance of damaging the PCM:
^ Reconnect the HDS to the DLC, and try the update procedure again.
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and Modules - A/T > Control Module, A/T > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Pinout Values and
Diagnostic Parameters > Page 4872
8. If the TP POSITION CHECK failed in step 5, clean the throttle body. 9. Do the PCM idle learn
procedure.
10. Do the crank (CKP) learn procedure.
^ Honda interface module (HIM) and an iN workstation with HDS and CM update software
Use this procedure when you need to substitute a known-good PCM during troubleshooting
procedures.
1. Make sure you have the anti-theft code for the audio system or the navigation system (if
equipped), then write down the audio presets. 2. Connect the HDS to the DLC (A) located behind
the driver's dashboard lower cover.
3. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 4. Make sure the HDS communicates with the PCM. If it does
not, go to the DLC circuit troubleshooting. If you did the DLC circuit troubleshooting,
skip steps 5 thru 9, then clean the throttle body after substituting the PCM.
5. Select the INSPECTION MENU with the HDS. 6. Select the TP POSITION CHECK in the ETCS
TEST with the HDS.
7. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). 8. Remove the battery. 9. Remove the PCM cover (A).
10. Remove the bolts (D), and remove the PCM (E).
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and Modules - A/T > Control Module, A/T > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Pinout Values and
Diagnostic Parameters > Page 4873
NOTE: PCM connectors A, B, and C have symbols (A = square, B = triangle, C = circle) embossed
on them for identification.
12. Install the PCM and the battery in the reverse order of removal. 13. Turn the ignition switch to
ON (II).
NOTE: DTC P0630 "VIN not Programmed or Mismatch" will be stored because VIN has not been
programmed into the PCM. Ignore it, and continue this procedure.
14. Input the VIN to the PCM with the HDS. 15. Update the PCM if it does not have the latest
software. 16. Select the IMMOBILIZER SYSTEM with the HDS. 17. Enter the immobilizer code with
the PCM replacement procedure in the HDS; this allows you to start the engine. 18. Reset the PCM
with the HDS. 19. If the TP POSITION CHECK indicates FAILED in step 6, clean the throttle body.
20. Do the PCM idle learn procedure. See: How to Update the PCM 21. Do the crank (CKP) learn
procedure. 22. Enter the anti-theft code for the audio system or the navigation system (if equipped),
enter the audio presets. Set the clock (on vehicles without
navigation).
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Relays and Modules - Transmission and Drivetrain > Relays
and Modules - A/T > Shift Interlock Control Module > Component Information > Locations
171. Shift Lock Solenoid Cut Relay And Start Relay (Honda Accessory: Canada A/T)
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors
and Switches - A/T > Fluid Pressure Sensor/Switch, A/T > Component Information > Locations
Fluid Pressure Sensor/Switch: Service and Repair 2nd Clutch Transmission Fluid Pressure Switch,
Replacement
2nd Clutch Transmission Fluid Pressure Switch, Replacement
1. Remove the air cleaner assembly and the intake air duct. 2. Remove the harness clamp (A) from
its bracket, and remove the air cleaner housing bracket (B).
3. Disconnect the 2nd clutch transmission fluid pressure switch connector, and remove the 2nd
clutch transmission fluid pressure switch (A).
4. Make sure there is no water, oil, dust, or foreign particles inside the connectors. 5. Install a new
2nd clutch transmission fluid pressure switch with a new sealing washer (B), and tighten the switch
to the specified torque by turning
6. Connect the connector securely. 7. Install the air cleaner housing bracket, and install the
harness clamp on its bracket. 8. Install the intake air duct and the air cleaner assembly.
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and Switches - A/T > Fluid Pressure Sensor/Switch, A/T > Component Information > Service and Repair > 2nd Clutch
Transmission Fluid Pressure Switch, Replacement > Page 4890
Fluid Pressure Sensor/Switch: Service and Repair 3rd Clutch Transmission Fluid Pressure Switch
Replacement
1. Raise the vehicle on a lift, or apply the parking brake, block the rear wheels, and raise the front
of the vehicle. Make sure it is securely supported. 2. Remove the splash shield. 3. Disconnect the
3rd clutch transmission fluid pressure switch connector, then remove the 3rd clutch transmission
fluid pressure switch (A).
4. Make sure there is no water, oil, dust, or foreign particles inside the connector. 5. Install a new
3rd clutch transmission fluid pressure switch with a new sealing washer (B), and tighten the switch
to the specified torque by turning
160. A/T Gear Position Indicator Panel Light/Park Pin Switch (A/T)
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors
and Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Locations
1. Remove the air cleaner assembly and the intake air duct. 2. Disconnect the transmission range
switch harness connector (A).
3. Check for continuity between terminals at the harness connector. There should be continuity
between the terminals in the following table for each
switch position.
4. Transmission range switch test is completed if the test results are OK.
5. Raise the vehicle on a lift, or apply the parking brake, block the rear wheels, and raise the front
of the vehicle. Make sure it is securely supported. 6. Remove the transmission range switch cover.
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and Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Locations > Page 4905
7. Disconnect the transmission range switch connector.
8. Check for continuity between terminals at the switch connector. There should be continuity
between the terminals in the following table for each
switch position.
9. If the transmission range switch test is OK, replace the faulty transmission range switch harness.
10. Remove the transmission range switch, and check the end of the selector control shaft (A).
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and Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Locations > Page 4906
11. If the measurement at the end of the selector control shaft end is within the standard, replace
the transmission range switch. If the measurement is
out of the standard, repair the selector control shaft end, and recheck the transmission range
switch continuity.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors
and Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Locations > Page 4907
Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: Service and Repair
1. Raise the vehicle on a lift, or apply the parking brake, block the rear wheels, and raise the front
of the vehicle. Make sure it is securely supported. 2. Shift the shift lever to N. 3. Remove the
transmission range switch cover.
5. Make sure the selector control shaft is in the N position. If necessary, move the shift lever to the
N position from the P position.
6. Align the cutouts (A) on the rotary-frame with the neutral positioning cutouts (B) on the
transmission range switch (C), then put a 2.0 mm (0.08
in.) feeler gauge blade (D) in the cutouts to hold the switch in the N position.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors
and Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Locations > Page 4908
7. Install the transmission range switch (A) gently on the selector control shaft (B) while holding it in
the N position with the 2.0 mm (0.08 in.) blade
(C).
8. Tighten the bolts on the transmission range switch while you continue holding the N position. Do
not move the transmission range switch when
9. Check the connectors for rust, dirt, or oil, clean or repair if necessary, then connect the
connector securely.
10. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). Move the shift lever through all positions, and check the
transmission range switch synchronization with the
11. Check that the engine will start in P and N, and will not start in any other shift lever position. 12.
Check that the back-up lights come on when the shift lever is in R. 13. Allow the front wheels to
rotate freely, then start the engine, and check the shift lever operation. 14. Install the transmission
range switch cover.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors
and Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Locations > Page 4909
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors
and Switches - A/T > Transmission Speed Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Locations
Transmission Speed Sensor: Service and Repair Input Shaft (Mainshaft) Speed Sensor
Replacement
Input Shaft (Mainshaft) Speed Sensor Replacement
1. Remove the air cleaner assembly and the intake air duct. 2. Remove the harness clamp (A) from
its bracket, and remove the air cleaner housing bracket (B).
3. Disconnect the input shaft (mainshaft) speed sensor connector, and remove the input shaft
(mainshaft) speed sensor (A).
4. Install a new O-ring (B) on the new input shaft (mainshaft) speed sensor, then install the input
shaft (mainshaft) speed sensor in the transmission
housing.
5. Check the connector for rust, dirt, or oil, then connect the connector securely. 6. Install the air
cleaner housing bracket, and install the harness clamp on its bracket. 7. Install the intake air duct
and the air cleaner assembly.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors
and Switches - A/T > Transmission Speed Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Service and Repair > Input Shaft
(Mainshaft) Speed Sensor Replacement > Page 4920
Transmission Speed Sensor: Service and Repair Output Shaft (Countershaft) Speed Sensor
Replacement
1. Remove the air cleaner assembly and the intake air duct. 2. Disconnect the output shaft
(countershaft) speed sensor connector, and remove the output shaft (countershaft) speed sensor
(A).
3. Install a new O-ring (B) on a new output shaft (countershaft) speed sensor, then install the
output shaft (countershaft) speed sensor in the
transmission housing.
4. Check the connector for rust, dirt, or oil, then connect the connector securely. 5. Install the intake
air duct and the air cleaner assembly.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors
and Switches - A/T > Transmission Temperature Sensor/Switch, A/T > Component Information > Locations
1. Raise the vehicle on a lift, or apply the parking brake, block the rear wheels, and raise the front
of the vehicle. Make sure it is securely supported. 2. Remove the splash shield. 3. Disconnect the
shift solenoid harness connector.
4. Measure the ATF temperature sensor resistance between shift solenoid harness connector
terminals No. 6 and No. 7.
5. If the resistance is out of standard, go to step 6, and replace the ATF temperature sensor and
solenoid harness. The ATF temperature sensor is not
^ If the resistance is within the standard, the test is complete, connect the connector securely, and
install the splash shield.
6. Remove the drain plug (A), and drain the automatic transmission fluid (ATF).
7. Reinstall the drain plug with a new sealing washer (B). 8. Remove the shift solenoid valve cover
(A), the dowel pins (B), the gasket (C), and the harness clamp bracket (D).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors
and Switches - A/T > Transmission Temperature Sensor/Switch, A/T > Component Information > Locations > Page 4926
9. Remove the shift solenoid harness connector (E), and replace it.
10. Install a new O-ring (F) on a new shift solenoid harness connector, and install the connector in
the transmission housing. 11. Connect WHT harnesses and ORN harness connector to shift
solenoid valve B. ATF temperature sensor is assembled in the connector with WHT
harnesses.
13. Install the shift solenoid valve cover, the dowel pins, a new gasket, and the harness clamp
bracket. 14. Check the connector for rust, dirt, or oil, then connect the connector securely. 15. Refill
the transmission with ATF. 16. Install the splash shield.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors
and Switches - A/T > Transmission Temperature Sensor/Switch, A/T > Component Information > Locations > Page 4927
Transmission Temperature Sensor/Switch: Service and Repair
1. Raise the vehicle on a lift, or apply the parking brake, block the rear wheels, and raise the front
of the vehicle. Make sure it is securely supported. 2. Remove the splash shield. 3. Disconnect the
shift solenoid harness connector.
4. Measure the ATF temperature sensor resistance between shift solenoid harness connector
terminals No. 6 and No. 7.
5. If the resistance is out of standard, go to step 6, and replace the ATF temperature sensor and
solenoid harness. The ATF temperature sensor is not
^ If the resistance is within the standard, the test is complete, connect the connector securely, and
install the splash shield.
6. Remove the drain plug (A), and drain the automatic transmission fluid (ATF).
7. Reinstall the drain plug with a new sealing washer (B). 8. Remove the shift solenoid valve cover
(A), the dowel pins (B), the gasket (C), and the harness clamp bracket (D).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors
and Switches - A/T > Transmission Temperature Sensor/Switch, A/T > Component Information > Locations > Page 4928
9. Remove the shift solenoid harness connector (E), and replace it.
10. Install a new O-ring (F) on a new shift solenoid harness connector, and install the connector in
the transmission housing. 11. Connect WHT harnesses and ORN harness connector to shift
solenoid valve B. ATF temperature sensor is assembled in the connector with WHT
harnesses.
13. Install the shift solenoid valve cover, the dowel pins, a new gasket, and the harness clamp
bracket. 14. Check the connector for rust, dirt, or oil, then connect the connector securely. 15. Refill
the transmission with ATF. 16. Install the splash shield.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors
and Switches - M/T > Transmission Speed Sensor, M/T > Component Information > Diagrams
1. Connect the HDS to the DLC (A) located behind the driver's dashboard lower cover.
2. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). Make sure the HDS communicates with the PCM. If it does
not, go to the DLC circuit troubleshooting. 3. Select Clutch Pressure Control (Linear) Solenoid
Valve A in the Miscellaneous Test Menu with the HDS. 4. Test A/T clutch pressure control solenoid
valve A with the HDS.
^ If the valve tests OK, the test is complete. Disconnect the HDS.
^ If the valve does not test OK, follow the instructions on the HDS.
^ If the valve does not test OK, and the HDS does not determine the cause, go to step 5.
5. Remove the air cleaner assembly and the intake air duct. 6. Remove the mounting bolts
securing the harness cover (A), and remove the harness clamp (B).
7. Disconnect the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A connector (A).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Transmission Control Systems > Actuators and Solenoids -
Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Pressure Regulating Solenoid, A/T > Component
Information > Testing and Inspection > A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve A Test > Page 4943
8. Measure the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A resistance at the connector terminals.
Standard: 3 - 10 ohms
^ If the resistance is out of standard, replace A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A.
9. Connect a jumper wire from the negative battery terminal to A/T clutch pressure control solenoid
valve A connector terminal No. 2, and connect
another jumper wire from the positive battery terminal to connector terminal No. 1.
^ If a clicking sound is heard, the valve is OK. Reconnect the connector, and install all removed
parts.
10. Remove the mounting bolts and A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A.
11. Remove the ATF pipe (B), the ATF joint pipes (C), the O-rings (D), and the gasket (E). 12.
Check the fluid passage of the solenoid valve for contamination. 13. Connect a jumper wire from
the negative battery terminal to A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A connector terminal No.
2, and connect
another jumper wire from the positive battery terminal to connector terminal No. 1. Make sure A/T
clutch pressure control solenoid valve A moves.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Transmission Control Systems > Actuators and Solenoids -
Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Pressure Regulating Solenoid, A/T > Component
Information > Testing and Inspection > A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve A Test > Page 4944
14. Disconnect one of the jumper wires and check the valve movement at the fluid passage in the
valve body mounting surface. If the valve binds or
moves sluggishly, or if the solenoid valve does not operate, replace A/T clutch pressure control
solenoid valve A.
15. Clean the mounting surfaces and fluid passages of the solenoid valve body and the
transmission housing. 16. Install a new gasket with the blue side down and the white side up on the
transmission housing, and install the ATF pipe and the ATF joint pipes. 17. Install new O-rings over
the ATF joint pipes. 18. Install A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A. 19. Check the
connectors for rust, dirt, or oil, clean or repair if necessary, then connect the connectors securely.
20. Secure the harness cover with the mounting bolts, and install the harness clamp. 21. Install the
intake air duct and the air cleaner assembly.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Transmission Control Systems > Actuators and Solenoids -
Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Pressure Regulating Solenoid, A/T > Component
Information > Testing and Inspection > A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve A Test > Page 4945
Pressure Regulating Solenoid: Testing and Inspection A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve
B Test
A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve B Test
1. Connect the HDS to the DLC (A) located behind the driver's dashboard lower cover.
2. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). Make sure the HDS communicates with the PCM. If it does
not, go to the DLC circuit troubleshooting. 3. Select Clutch Pressure Control (Linear) Solenoid
Valve B in the Miscellaneous Test Menu with the HDS. 4. Test A/T clutch pressure control solenoid
valve B with the HDS.
^ If the valve tests OK, the test is complete. Disconnect the HDS.
^ If the valve does not test OK, follow the instructions on the HDS.
^ If the valve does not test OK, and the HDS does not determine the cause, go to step 5.
5. Remove the air cleaner assembly and the intake air duct. 6. Remove the mounting bolts
securing the, harness cover (A), and remove the harness clamp (B).
7. Disconnect the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve B connector (A).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Transmission Control Systems > Actuators and Solenoids -
Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Pressure Regulating Solenoid, A/T > Component
Information > Testing and Inspection > A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve A Test > Page 4946
8. Measure the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve B resistance at the connector terminals.
Standard: 3 - 10 ohms
^ If the resistance is out of standard, replace A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve B.
9. Connect a jumper wire from the negative battery terminal to A/T clutch pressure control solenoid
valve B connector terminal No. 2, and connect
another jumper wire from the positive battery terminal to connector terminal No. 1.
^ If a clicking sound is heard, the valve is OK. Reconnect the connector, and install all removed
parts.
11. Remove the ATF pipe (A), the ATF joint pipes (D), the O-rings (E), and the, gasket (F) 12.
Check the fluid passage of the solenoid valve for contamination. 13. Connect a jumper wire from
the negative battery terminal to A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve B connector terminal No.
2, and connect
another jumper wire from the positive battery terminal to connector terminal No. 1. Make sure A/T
clutch pressure control solenoid valve B moves.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Transmission Control Systems > Actuators and Solenoids -
Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Pressure Regulating Solenoid, A/T > Component
Information > Testing and Inspection > A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve A Test > Page 4947
14. Disconnect one of the jumper wires and check the valve movement at the fluid passage in the
valve body mounting surface. If the valve binds or
moves sluggishly, or if the solenoid valve does not operate, replace A/T clutch pressure control
solenoid valves B and C.
15. Clean the mounting surfaces and fluid passages of the solenoid valve body and the
transmission housing. 16. Install a new gasket with the blue side down and the white side up on the
transmission housing. 17. Install the ATF pipe and the ATF joint pipes, and install new O-rings over
the ATF joint pipes. 18. Install A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valves B and C. 19. Check the
A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve B and C connectors for rust, dirt, or oil, then connect the
connectors securely. 20. Secure the harness cover with the mounting bolts, and install the harness
clamp. 21. Install the intake air duct and the air cleaner assembly.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Transmission Control Systems > Actuators and Solenoids -
Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Pressure Regulating Solenoid, A/T > Component
Information > Testing and Inspection > A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve A Test > Page 4948
Pressure Regulating Solenoid: Testing and Inspection A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve
C Test
A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve C Test
1. Connect the HDS to the DLC (A) located behind the driver's dashboard lower cover.
2. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). Make sure the HDS communicates with the PCM. If it does
not, go to the DLC circuit troubleshooting. 3. Select Clutch Pressure Control (Linear) Solenoid
Valve C in the Miscellaneous Test Menu on the HDS. 4. Test A/T clutch pressure control solenoid
valve C with the HDS.
^ If the valve tests OK, the test is complete. Disconnect the HDS.
^ If the valve does not test OK, follow the instructions on the HDS.
^ If the valve does not test OK, and the HDS does not determine the cause, go to step 5.
5. Remove the air cleaner assembly and the intake air duct. 6. Remove the mounting bolts
securing the harness cover (A), and remove the harness clamp (B).
7. Disconnect the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve C connector (A).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Transmission Control Systems > Actuators and Solenoids -
Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Pressure Regulating Solenoid, A/T > Component
Information > Testing and Inspection > A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve A Test > Page 4949
8. Measure the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve C resistance at the connector terminals.
Standard: 3 - 10 ohms
^ If the resistance is out of standard, replace A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve C.
9. Connect a jumper wire from the negative battery terminal to A/T clutch pressure control solenoid
valve C connector terminal No. 2, and connect
another jumper wire from the positive battery terminal to connector terminal No. 1.
^ If a clicking sound is heard, the valve is OK. Reconnect the connector, and install all removed
parts.
11. Remove the ATF pipe (A), the ATF joint pipes (D), the O-rings (E), and the gasket (F) 12.
Check the fluid passage of the solenoid valve for contamination. 13. Connect a jumper wire from
the negative battery terminal to A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve C connector terminal No.
2, and connect
another jumper wire from the positive battery terminal to connector terminal No. 1. Make sure A/T
clutch pressure control solenoid valve C moves.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Transmission Control Systems > Actuators and Solenoids -
Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Pressure Regulating Solenoid, A/T > Component
Information > Testing and Inspection > A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve A Test > Page 4950
14. Disconnect one of the jumper wires and check the valve movement at the fluid passage in the
valve body mounting surface. If the valve binds or
moves sluggishly, or if the solenoid valve does not operate, replace A/T clutch pressure control
solenoid valves B and C.
15. Clean the mounting surfaces and fluid passages of the solenoid valve body and the
transmission housing. 16. Install a new gasket with the blue side down and the white side up on the
transmission housing. 17. Install the ATF pipe and the ATF joint pipes, and install new O-rings over
the ATF joint pipes. 18. Install A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valves B and C. 19. Check the
A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve B and C connectors for rust, dirt, or oil, then connect the
connectors securely. 20. Secure the harness cover with the mounting bolts, and install the harness
clamp. 21. Install the intake air duct and the air cleaner assembly.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Transmission Control Systems > Actuators and Solenoids -
Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Pressure Regulating Solenoid, A/T > Component
Information > Service and Repair > A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve A Replacement
Pressure Regulating Solenoid: Service and Repair A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve A
Replacement
A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve A Replacement
1. Remove the air cleaner assembly and the intake air duct. 2. Remove the mounting bolts
securing the harness cover (A), and remove the harness clamp (B).
3. Disconnect the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A connector. 4. Remove the mounting
bolts and A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A.
5. Remove the ATF pipe (B), the ATF joint pipes (C), the O-rings (D), and the gasket (E). 6. Check
the fluid passage of the transmission housing for dust or dirt, and clean the passage. 7. Install a
new gasket with the blue side down and the white side up on the transmission housing, and install
the ATF pipe and the ATF joint pipes. 8. Install new O-rings over the ATF joint pipes. 9. Install a
new A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A.
10. Check the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A connector for rust, dirt, or oil, then
connect the connector securely. 11. Secure the harness cover with the mounting bolts, and install
the harness clamp. 12. Install the intake air duct and the air cleaner assembly.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Transmission Control Systems > Actuators and Solenoids -
Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Pressure Regulating Solenoid, A/T > Component
Information > Service and Repair > A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve A Replacement > Page 4953
Pressure Regulating Solenoid: Service and Repair A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve B
and C Replacement
A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve B and C Replacement
1. Remove the air cleaner assembly and the intake air duct. 2. Remove the mounting bolts
securing the harness cover (A), and remove the harness clamp (D).
3. Disconnect the connectors from A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve B and C. 4. Remove
A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve B and C.
5. Remove the ATF pipe (A), the ATF joint pipes (D), the O-rings (E), and the gasket (F) 6. Clean
the mounting surface and the fluid passages of the transmission housing. 7. Install a new gasket
with the blue side down and the white side up on the transmission housing. 8. Install the ATF pipe
and the ATF joint pipes, and install new O-rings over the ATF joint pipes. 9. Install a new A/T clutch
pressure control solenoid valve B and C.
10. Check the A/T. clutch pressure control, solenoid valve B and C connectors for rust, dirt, or oil,
then connect the connectors securely. 11. Secure the harness cover with the mounting bolts, and
install the harness clamp. 12. Install the intake air duct and the air cleaner assembly.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Transmission Control Systems > Actuators and Solenoids -
Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Shift Interlock Solenoid > Component Information >
Locations > Component Locations
1. Remove the shift lever assembly. 2. Remove the shift lock solenoid connector. 3. Release the
shift lock solenoid lock (A), then remove the shift lock solenoid (B).
4. Replace the shift lock solenoid (A), solenoid plunger (B), and plunger spring (C) assembly.
5. Apply silicone grease to the tip (D) of the shift lock stop (E), and install a new shift lock solenoid
assembly by aligning the joint of the shift lock
6. Route the shift lock solenoid harness in the guide, and install the connector (F) on the bracket
base. 7. Install the shift lever assembly.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Transmission Control Systems > Actuators and Solenoids -
Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Shift Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Locations
1. Connect the HDS to the DLC (A) located behind the driver's dashboard lower cover.
2. Make sure the HDS communicates with the PCM. If it does not, go to the DLC circuit
troubleshooting. 3. Select Shift Solenoid Valve A, B, C, and D Test in the Miscellaneous Test Menu
on the HDS. 4. Check that shift solenoid valve A, B, C, and D operate with the HDS. A clicking
sound should be heard.
^ If a clicking-sound is heard, the valves are OK. The test is complete, disconnect the HDS.
5. Raise the vehicle on a lift, or apply the parking brake, block rear wheels, and raise the front of
the vehicle. Make sure it is securely supported. 6. Remove the splash shield. 7. Disconnect the
shift solenoid harness connector.
8. Measure the shift solenoid valve resistance between the shift solenoid harness connector
terminals below and body ground:
Standard: 12 - 25 ohms
^ If the resistance is within the standard, go to step 9 and check solenoid valve for a clicking sound.
9. Connect a jumper wire from the battery positive terminal to each shift solenoid harness
connector terminals individually. A clicking sound should
be heard.
^ If a clicking sound is heard, the valves are OK. The test is complete, connect the connector.
^ If no clicking sound is heard, go to step 10 and test the shift solenoid harness.
10. Remove the drain plug (A), and drain the automatic transmission fluid (ATF).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Transmission Control Systems > Actuators and Solenoids -
Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Shift Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Locations >
Page 4968
11. Reinstall the drain plug with a new sealing washer (B). 12. Remove the shift solenoid valve
cover (A), the dowel pins (B), the gasket (C), and the harness clamp bracket (D).
13. Disconnect the connectors from shift solenoid valve A, shift solenoid valve B, shift solenoid
valve C, and shift solenoid valve D.
14. Measure the resistance of each solenoid valve between the connector terminal and body
ground.
Standard: 12 - 25 ohms
^ If the resistance is out of standard, go to step 17 and replace the shift solenoid valve.
^ If the resistance is within the standard, go to step 15 and check the solenoid valve for a clicking
sound.
15. Connect a jumper wire from the positive battery terminal to each solenoid terminal individually.
17. Remove the mounting bolts, then hold the shift solenoid valve body and remove the solenoid
valves. Do not hold the connector to remove the
solenoid valve.
18. Install new O-rings (two O-rings per solenoid valve) (E) on the reused solenoid valve.
NOTE: A new solenoid valve comes with new O-rings. If you install a new solenoid valve, use the
O-rings provided on it.
19. Install shift solenoid valve D (black connector) and shift solenoid valve C (brown connector) by
holding the shift solenoid valve body; make sure
NOTE: Do not hold the solenoid valve by the connector when installing the solenoid valve. Be sure
to hold the solenoid valve body.
20. Install shift solenoid valve B (black connector) by holding the shift solenoid valve body; make
sure the mounting bracket contacts the servo body. 21. Install shift solenoid valve A (brown
connector) by holding the shift solenoid valve body; make sure the mounting bracket contacts the
bracket of
NOTE: Do not install shift solenoid valve A before installing shift solenoid valve B. If shift solenoid
valve A is installed before installing shift solenoid valve B, it may damage to hydraulic control
system.
23. Install the shift solenoid valve cover, the dowel pins, a new gasket, and the harness clamp
bracket.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Transmission Control Systems > Actuators and Solenoids -
Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Shift Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Locations >
Page 4970
24. Check the connector for rust, dirt, or oil, then connect the connector securely. 25. Refill the
transmission with ATF. 26. Install the splash shield.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Transmission Control Systems > Actuators and Solenoids -
Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Shift Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Locations >
Page 4971
1. Raise the vehicle on a lift, or apply the parking brake, block rear wheels, and raise the front of
the vehicle. Make sure it is securely supported. 2. Remove the splash shield. 3. Remove the drain
plug (A), and drain the automatic transmission fluid (ATF).
4. Reinstall the drain plug with a new sealing washer (B). 5. Remove the shift solenoid valve cover
(A), the dowel pins (B), the gasket (C), and the harness clamp bracket (D).
^ If replacing the shift solenoid harness, remove the shift solenoid harness connector (A), and
replace it. Install a new O-ring (B) on the new shift solenoid harness connector, and install it in the
transmission housing, then go to step 12.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Transmission Control Systems > Actuators and Solenoids -
Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Shift Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Locations >
Page 4972
7. Remove the mounting bolts, then hold the shift solenoid valve body and remove the solenoid
valves. Do not hold the connector to remove the
solenoid valve.
8. Install new O-rings (two O-rings per solenoid valve) (E) on the solenoid valve.
NOTE: A new solenoid valve comes with new O-rings. If you install a new solenoid valve, use the
O-rings provided on it.
9. Install shift solenoid valve D (black connector) and shift solenoid valve C (brown connector) by
holding the shift solenoid valve body; make sure
NOTE: Do not hold the solenoid valve by the connector when installing the solenoid valve. Be sure
to hold the solenoid valve body.
10. Install shift solenoid valve B (black connector) by holding the shift solenoid valve body; make
sure the mounting bracket contacts the servo body. 11. Install shift solenoid valve A (brown
connector) by holding the shift solenoid valve body; make sure the mounting bracket contacts the
bracket of
NOTE: Do not install shift solenoid valve A before installing shift solenoid valve B. If shift solenoid
valve A is installed before installing shift solenoid valve B, it may damage to hydraulic control
system.
13. Install the shift solenoid valve cover, the dowel pins, a new gasket, and the harness clamp
bracket. 14. Check the connector for rust, dirt, or oil, then connect the connector securely. 15. Refill
the transmission with ATF. 16. Install the splash shield.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Transmission Control Systems > Lamps and Indicators -
Transmission and Drivetrain > Lamps and Indicators - A/T > Shift Indicator > Component Information > Locations
Shared Circuits
Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that
connects one circuit to another, for example, is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it
pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or
component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring, check the operation of a
component it serves. If that component works, you know the shared wiring is OK.
Connectors
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Transmission Control Systems > Lamps and Indicators -
Transmission and Drivetrain > Lamps and Indicators - A/T > Shift Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 4981
All in-line and junction connectors are numbered (C725, C416, etc.). Component connectors are
not numbered but are identified either by the name of the component if the component only has
one connector, or by a capital letter (A, B, C, etc.) if the component has more than one connector.
Below most connector numbers and component names are PHOTO and VIEW numbers. The
PHOTO number refers to a photo at Vehicle Level Locations that shows the connector's location on
the car. The VIEW number refers to an connector view at the Vehicle Level Connector Views that
shows the connector terminals, wire colors, connector cavity numbers, and other details.
The connector cavity numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector as seen
from either of the viewpoints. Except for the DLC (data link connector), disregard any numbers
molded into the connector housing.
Wires
Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the
stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number "2" next to the male
and female wire terminals at C554, for example, means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector
C554.
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the vehicle. Refer to the Power Distribution Diagram Set to get a more detailed
understanding of how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on. Individual circuit
schematics begin with a fuse. So if Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another
circuit share a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good
and power is available to the inoperative circuit.
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share the same
ground point.
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Information and Instructions > Page 4983
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Information and Instructions > Page 4984
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Information and Instructions > Page 4985
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Information and Instructions > Page 4986
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Information and Instructions > Page 4987
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Transmission and Drivetrain > Lamps and Indicators - A/T > Shift Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 4988
How to Identify Connector Terminals
How to Identify Connector Terminals
Connector terminals are numbered according to the cavities they are in. The cavities are numbered
starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side or looking at the
female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the
same. All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not
the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the
connector face.
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Information and Instructions > Page 4989
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown above is #6.
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Information and Instructions > Page 4990
The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice
connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for
all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement
terminal availability.
On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged,
replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If
any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it.
Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the
wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the
terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to
make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a
factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS.
Use the tools from Pin Tool Set. First, check the connector that you are about to repair.
- If it has a secondary terminal lock, go to Connectors With a Secondary Lock. A secondary lock,
found on most connectors on some models, is an additional locking device on the connector
housing as a backup for the primary lock on the terminal.
- If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock.
All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the
secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the
connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities.
EXAMPLE A:
2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW
TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE E:
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Information and Instructions > Page 4994
1. Remove the secondary locks.
2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW
TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE F:
All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of
connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary
in size and shape.
EXAMPLE A:
EXAMPLE B:
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Information and Instructions > Page 4996
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE C:
EXAMPLE D:
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Transmission and Drivetrain > Lamps and Indicators - A/T > Shift Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 4997
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE E:
EXAMPLE F:
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Information and Instructions > Page 4998
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE G:
1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct
replacement terminal based on the wire size range
NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part
number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available
through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures.
2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool.
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Information and Instructions > Page 4999
3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the
wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from
the kit.)
NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did,
cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again.
4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the
anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown
in step 3.
6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact.
- If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool
over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the
stops make contact.
- If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully
squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape.
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Information and Instructions > Page 5000
8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the following NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and
start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the
way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure
10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector.
Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too
short or when access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair.
On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged,
replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If
any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it.
1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from
Pin Tool Set.
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Information and Instructions > Page 5001
2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal,
then strip about half of the insulation off that piece.
This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal.
NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will
not nick or cut off any strands of wires.
3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and
same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit
onto the stripped end of the original wire.
5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the
pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more
than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at
the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the
harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make
each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail.
7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends
of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue
NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the
stripper.
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Transmission and Drivetrain > Lamps and Indicators - A/T > Shift Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 5002
8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the
flare begins), and close the crimper handles far
enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click,
squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open.
9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the
wire all the way into the splice connector, and
squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until
the ratchet clicks again.
10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After
crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the
connector.
12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire(s), and shield them with
nonflammable material.
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Transmission and Drivetrain > Lamps and Indicators - A/T > Shift Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 5003
13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the
gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat
evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete
when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube.
NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun.
Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the
wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size)
splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select
the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in
quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures.
Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the
Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching
connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body.
1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector.
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Information and Instructions > Page 5004
2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool.
NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal
because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit.
3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal
with a replacement terminal from the appropriate
Five-Step Troubleshooting
Five-Step Troubleshooting
Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint.
Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
problem area.
Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by
tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground (certain
circuits contain a "How the Circuit Works" Diagram set). Also, trace circuits that share wiring with
the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on,
are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step
1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used
only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely
cause.
Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more
possible causes.
Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple
procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to
make tests at points that are easily accessible.
Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe
procedures.
Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire
problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure
no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur.
Test Equipment
Test Equipment
CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
1O-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up
of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to
various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is
voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital
volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is
between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM).
In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low
resistance means good continuity.
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Information and Instructions > Page 5005
Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a
reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is
affecting the measurement.
To order any test equipment shown, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool
numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin.
Jumper Wire
Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder
connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire
across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse.
To order any test equipment shown, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool
numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin.
Troubleshooting Precautions
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION: -
Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
- Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles.
2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part
Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place.
CAUTION: -
Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
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Information and Instructions > Page 5006
- Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-mega
ohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that
contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
Troubleshooting Tests
Troubleshooting Tests
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt
ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest
"OHMS" range.
2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you
want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end.
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Information and Instructions > Page 5007
4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or
no reading (zero), means good continuity.
Testing for Voltage Drop
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem. Circuits must be operating when checking
voltage drop.
1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts
range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage
is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM
voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
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Information and Instructions > Page 5008
160. A/T Gear Position Indicator Panel Light/Park Pin Switch (A/T)
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^ Honda interface module (HIM) and an iN workstation with HDS and CM update software
NOTE: ^
Use this procedure when you need to update the PCM during troubleshooting procedures.
^ Make sure HDS/HIM has the latest software version downloaded from the iN (interactive
network).
^ To ensure the latest program is installed, do a PCM update whenever the PCM is substituted or
replaced.
^ You cannot update a PCM with the program it already has. It will only accept a new program.
^ Before you update the PCM, make sure the battery is fully charged, and connect a jumper battery
(not a battery charger) to maintain system voltage.
^ Never turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0) while updating the PCM. If you turn the ignition switch
to LOCK (0) before completion, the PCM can be damaged.
^ To prevent PCM damage, do not operate anything electrical (audio system, brakes, A/C, power
windows, moon roof (if equipped), door locks, etc.) during the update.
^ If you need to diagnose the Honda interface module (HIM) because the HIM's red 3) light came
on or was flashing during the update, leave the ignition switch in the ON (II) position when you
disconnect the HIM from the data link connector (DLC). This will prevent PCM damage.
^ High temperature in the engine compartment might cause the PCM to become too hot to run the
update. If the engine has been running before this procedure, open the hood and cool the engine
compartment.
1. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), but do not start the engine. 2. Connect the HDS to the DLC
(A) located behind the driver's dashboard lower cover.
3. Make sure the HDS communicates with the PCM. if it does not, go to the DLC circuit
troubleshooting. 4. Select the INSPECTION MENU with the HDS. 5. Select the ETCS TEST, then
select the TP POSITION CHECK, and follow the HDS screen prompts.
6. Exit the HDS, then select the CM update, and follow the screen prompts to update the PCM. 7. If
the PCM has the latest software, disconnect the HDS/HIM from the DLC, and go back to the
procedure that you were doing. If the software in
the PCM is not the latest, follow the instructions on the screen. If prompted to choose the PGM-FI
system or the A/T system, make sure you update both.
NOTE: If the PCM update procedure requires you to cool the PCM, follow the screen prompts. If
you run into a problem (programming takes over 15 minutes, status bar goes over 100 D or
immobilizer indicator flashes, HDS tablet freezes, etc.) during the update procedure, follow these
steps to minimize the chance of damaging the PCM:
^ Reconnect the HDS to the DLC, and try the update procedure again.
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Inspection > Pinout Values and Diagnostic Parameters > Page 5020
8. If the TP POSITION CHECK failed in step 5, clean the throttle body. 9. Do the PCM idle learn
procedure.
10. Do the crank (CKP) learn procedure.
^ Honda interface module (HIM) and an iN workstation with HDS and CM update software
Use this procedure when you need to substitute a known-good PCM during troubleshooting
procedures.
1. Make sure you have the anti-theft code for the audio system or the navigation system (if
equipped), then write down the audio presets. 2. Connect the HDS to the DLC (A) located behind
the driver's dashboard lower cover.
3. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 4. Make sure the HDS communicates with the PCM. If it does
not, go to the DLC circuit troubleshooting. If you did the DLC circuit troubleshooting,
skip steps 5 thru 9, then clean the throttle body after substituting the PCM.
5. Select the INSPECTION MENU with the HDS. 6. Select the TP POSITION CHECK in the ETCS
TEST with the HDS.
7. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). 8. Remove the battery. 9. Remove the PCM cover (A).
10. Remove the bolts (D), and remove the PCM (E).
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Inspection > Pinout Values and Diagnostic Parameters > Page 5021
NOTE: PCM connectors A, B, and C have symbols (A = square, B = triangle, C = circle) embossed
on them for identification.
12. Install the PCM and the battery in the reverse order of removal. 13. Turn the ignition switch to
ON (II).
NOTE: DTC P0630 "VIN not Programmed or Mismatch" will be stored because VIN has not been
programmed into the PCM. Ignore it, and continue this procedure.
14. Input the VIN to the PCM with the HDS. 15. Update the PCM if it does not have the latest
software. 16. Select the IMMOBILIZER SYSTEM with the HDS. 17. Enter the immobilizer code with
the PCM replacement procedure in the HDS; this allows you to start the engine. 18. Reset the PCM
with the HDS. 19. If the TP POSITION CHECK indicates FAILED in step 6, clean the throttle body.
20. Do the PCM idle learn procedure. See: How to Update the PCM 21. Do the crank (CKP) learn
procedure. 22. Enter the anti-theft code for the audio system or the navigation system (if equipped),
enter the audio presets. Set the clock (on vehicles without
navigation).
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Transmission and Drivetrain > Relays and Modules - A/T > Shift Interlock Control Module > Component Information >
Locations
171. Shift Lock Solenoid Cut Relay And Start Relay (Honda Accessory: Canada A/T)
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Transmission Control Systems > Sensors and Switches -
Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - A/T > Fluid Pressure Sensor/Switch, A/T > Component Information >
Locations
Fluid Pressure Sensor/Switch: Service and Repair 2nd Clutch Transmission Fluid Pressure Switch,
Replacement
2nd Clutch Transmission Fluid Pressure Switch, Replacement
1. Remove the air cleaner assembly and the intake air duct. 2. Remove the harness clamp (A) from
its bracket, and remove the air cleaner housing bracket (B).
3. Disconnect the 2nd clutch transmission fluid pressure switch connector, and remove the 2nd
clutch transmission fluid pressure switch (A).
4. Make sure there is no water, oil, dust, or foreign particles inside the connectors. 5. Install a new
2nd clutch transmission fluid pressure switch with a new sealing washer (B), and tighten the switch
to the specified torque by turning
6. Connect the connector securely. 7. Install the air cleaner housing bracket, and install the
harness clamp on its bracket. 8. Install the intake air duct and the air cleaner assembly.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Transmission Control Systems > Sensors and Switches -
Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - A/T > Fluid Pressure Sensor/Switch, A/T > Component Information >
Service and Repair > 2nd Clutch Transmission Fluid Pressure Switch, Replacement > Page 5038
Fluid Pressure Sensor/Switch: Service and Repair 3rd Clutch Transmission Fluid Pressure Switch
Replacement
1. Raise the vehicle on a lift, or apply the parking brake, block the rear wheels, and raise the front
of the vehicle. Make sure it is securely supported. 2. Remove the splash shield. 3. Disconnect the
3rd clutch transmission fluid pressure switch connector, then remove the 3rd clutch transmission
fluid pressure switch (A).
4. Make sure there is no water, oil, dust, or foreign particles inside the connector. 5. Install a new
3rd clutch transmission fluid pressure switch with a new sealing washer (B), and tighten the switch
to the specified torque by turning
160. A/T Gear Position Indicator Panel Light/Park Pin Switch (A/T)
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Transmission Control Systems > Sensors and Switches -
Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component
Information > Locations
1. Remove the air cleaner assembly and the intake air duct. 2. Disconnect the transmission range
switch harness connector (A).
3. Check for continuity between terminals at the harness connector. There should be continuity
between the terminals in the following table for each
switch position.
4. Transmission range switch test is completed if the test results are OK.
5. Raise the vehicle on a lift, or apply the parking brake, block the rear wheels, and raise the front
of the vehicle. Make sure it is securely supported. 6. Remove the transmission range switch cover.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Transmission Control Systems > Sensors and Switches -
Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component
Information > Locations > Page 5053
7. Disconnect the transmission range switch connector.
8. Check for continuity between terminals at the switch connector. There should be continuity
between the terminals in the following table for each
switch position.
9. If the transmission range switch test is OK, replace the faulty transmission range switch harness.
10. Remove the transmission range switch, and check the end of the selector control shaft (A).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Transmission Control Systems > Sensors and Switches -
Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component
Information > Locations > Page 5054
11. If the measurement at the end of the selector control shaft end is within the standard, replace
the transmission range switch. If the measurement is
out of the standard, repair the selector control shaft end, and recheck the transmission range
switch continuity.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Transmission Control Systems > Sensors and Switches -
Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component
Information > Locations > Page 5055
Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: Service and Repair
Transmission Range Switch Replacement
1. Raise the vehicle on a lift, or apply the parking brake, block the rear wheels, and raise the front
of the vehicle. Make sure it is securely supported. 2. Shift the shift lever to N. 3. Remove the
transmission range switch cover.
5. Make sure the selector control shaft is in the N position. If necessary, move the shift lever to the
N position from the P position.
6. Align the cutouts (A) on the rotary-frame with the neutral positioning cutouts (B) on the
transmission range switch (C), then put a 2.0 mm (0.08
in.) feeler gauge blade (D) in the cutouts to hold the switch in the N position.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Transmission Control Systems > Sensors and Switches -
Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component
Information > Locations > Page 5056
7. Install the transmission range switch (A) gently on the selector control shaft (B) while holding it in
the N position with the 2.0 mm (0.08 in.) blade
(C).
8. Tighten the bolts on the transmission range switch while you continue holding the N position. Do
not move the transmission range switch when
9. Check the connectors for rust, dirt, or oil, clean or repair if necessary, then connect the
connector securely.
10. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). Move the shift lever through all positions, and check the
transmission range switch synchronization with the
11. Check that the engine will start in P and N, and will not start in any other shift lever position. 12.
Check that the back-up lights come on when the shift lever is in R. 13. Allow the front wheels to
rotate freely, then start the engine, and check the shift lever operation. 14. Install the transmission
range switch cover.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Transmission Control Systems > Sensors and Switches -
Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component
Information > Locations > Page 5057
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Transmission Control Systems > Sensors and Switches -
Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Speed Sensor, A/T > Component Information >
Locations
Transmission Speed Sensor: Service and Repair Input Shaft (Mainshaft) Speed Sensor
Replacement
Input Shaft (Mainshaft) Speed Sensor Replacement
1. Remove the air cleaner assembly and the intake air duct. 2. Remove the harness clamp (A) from
its bracket, and remove the air cleaner housing bracket (B).
3. Disconnect the input shaft (mainshaft) speed sensor connector, and remove the input shaft
(mainshaft) speed sensor (A).
4. Install a new O-ring (B) on the new input shaft (mainshaft) speed sensor, then install the input
shaft (mainshaft) speed sensor in the transmission
housing.
5. Check the connector for rust, dirt, or oil, then connect the connector securely. 6. Install the air
cleaner housing bracket, and install the harness clamp on its bracket. 7. Install the intake air duct
and the air cleaner assembly.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Transmission Control Systems > Sensors and Switches -
Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Speed Sensor, A/T > Component Information >
Service and Repair > Input Shaft (Mainshaft) Speed Sensor Replacement > Page 5068
Transmission Speed Sensor: Service and Repair Output Shaft (Countershaft) Speed Sensor
Replacement
1. Remove the air cleaner assembly and the intake air duct. 2. Disconnect the output shaft
(countershaft) speed sensor connector, and remove the output shaft (countershaft) speed sensor
(A).
3. Install a new O-ring (B) on a new output shaft (countershaft) speed sensor, then install the
output shaft (countershaft) speed sensor in the
transmission housing.
4. Check the connector for rust, dirt, or oil, then connect the connector securely. 5. Install the intake
air duct and the air cleaner assembly.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Transmission Control Systems > Sensors and Switches -
Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Temperature Sensor/Switch, A/T > Component
Information > Locations
1. Raise the vehicle on a lift, or apply the parking brake, block the rear wheels, and raise the front
of the vehicle. Make sure it is securely supported. 2. Remove the splash shield. 3. Disconnect the
shift solenoid harness connector.
4. Measure the ATF temperature sensor resistance between shift solenoid harness connector
terminals No. 6 and No. 7.
5. If the resistance is out of standard, go to step 6, and replace the ATF temperature sensor and
solenoid harness. The ATF temperature sensor is not
^ If the resistance is within the standard, the test is complete, connect the connector securely, and
install the splash shield.
6. Remove the drain plug (A), and drain the automatic transmission fluid (ATF).
7. Reinstall the drain plug with a new sealing washer (B). 8. Remove the shift solenoid valve cover
(A), the dowel pins (B), the gasket (C), and the harness clamp bracket (D).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Transmission Control Systems > Sensors and Switches -
Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Temperature Sensor/Switch, A/T > Component
Information > Locations > Page 5074
9. Remove the shift solenoid harness connector (E), and replace it.
10. Install a new O-ring (F) on a new shift solenoid harness connector, and install the connector in
the transmission housing. 11. Connect WHT harnesses and ORN harness connector to shift
solenoid valve B. ATF temperature sensor is assembled in the connector with WHT
harnesses.
13. Install the shift solenoid valve cover, the dowel pins, a new gasket, and the harness clamp
bracket. 14. Check the connector for rust, dirt, or oil, then connect the connector securely. 15. Refill
the transmission with ATF. 16. Install the splash shield.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Transmission Control Systems > Sensors and Switches -
Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Temperature Sensor/Switch, A/T > Component
Information > Locations > Page 5075
Transmission Temperature Sensor/Switch: Service and Repair
ATF Temperature Sensor Test/Replacement
1. Raise the vehicle on a lift, or apply the parking brake, block the rear wheels, and raise the front
of the vehicle. Make sure it is securely supported. 2. Remove the splash shield. 3. Disconnect the
shift solenoid harness connector.
4. Measure the ATF temperature sensor resistance between shift solenoid harness connector
terminals No. 6 and No. 7.
5. If the resistance is out of standard, go to step 6, and replace the ATF temperature sensor and
solenoid harness. The ATF temperature sensor is not
^ If the resistance is within the standard, the test is complete, connect the connector securely, and
install the splash shield.
6. Remove the drain plug (A), and drain the automatic transmission fluid (ATF).
7. Reinstall the drain plug with a new sealing washer (B). 8. Remove the shift solenoid valve cover
(A), the dowel pins (B), the gasket (C), and the harness clamp bracket (D).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Transmission Control Systems > Sensors and Switches -
Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Temperature Sensor/Switch, A/T > Component
Information > Locations > Page 5076
9. Remove the shift solenoid harness connector (E), and replace it.
10. Install a new O-ring (F) on a new shift solenoid harness connector, and install the connector in
the transmission housing. 11. Connect WHT harnesses and ORN harness connector to shift
solenoid valve B. ATF temperature sensor is assembled in the connector with WHT
harnesses.
13. Install the shift solenoid valve cover, the dowel pins, a new gasket, and the harness clamp
bracket. 14. Check the connector for rust, dirt, or oil, then connect the connector securely. 15. Refill
the transmission with ATF. 16. Install the splash shield.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Transmission Control Systems > Sensors and Switches -
Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - M/T > Transmission Speed Sensor, M/T > Component Information >
Diagrams
Pedal Height
1. Turn the brake pedal position switch (A) counterclockwise, and pull it back until it is no longer
touching the brake pedal.
2. Pull back the carpet and find the cutout in the insulation. Lift up the insulation cutout and
measure the pedal height (B) at the middle of the left
Standard pedal height (with carpet move aside): M/T: 153 mm (6 in.) A/T 158 mm (6 1/4 in.)
3. Loosen the pushrod locknut (A), and screw the pushrod (B) in or out with pliers until the standard
pedal height from the floor is reached. After
adjustment, tighten the locknut firmly. Do not adjust the pedal height with the pushrod pressed.
4. Lift up on the brake pedal by hand. Push in the brake pedal position switch until its plunger is
fully pressed (threaded end (A) touching the pad (B)
on the pedal arm). Then, turn the brake pedal position switch 45° clockwise to lock it. The gap
between the brake pedal position switch and the pad is automatically adjusted to 0.7 mm (0.028
in.) by locking the switch. Make sure the brake lights go off when the pedal is released.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Antilock Brakes / Traction Control Systems > Braking
Sensor/Switch > Component Information > Locations > Page 5090
5. Check the brake pedal free play.
1. With the ignition switch at LOCK (0), inspect the pedal free play (A) at the pedal pad (B) by
pushing the pedal by hand. If the brake pedal free
NOTE: ^
Do not spill brake-fluid on the vehicle; it may damage the paint; if brake fluid gets on the paint,
wash it off immediately with water.
^ Be careful not to damage or deform the brake lines during removal and installation.
^ To prevent the brake fluid from flowing, plug and cover the hose ends and joints with a shop
towel or equivalent material.
Removal
1. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). 2. Disconnect the VSA modulator-control unit 37P
connector (A) by pushing the lock (B) and pulling down the lever (C); the connector disconnects
itself.
3. Disconnect the six brake lines from the VSA modulator-control unit.
NOTE: Brake lines are connected to the master cylinder (D) and to the right-front (E), the left-rear
(F), the right-rear (G), and the left-front (H) brake systems.
4. Remove the VSA modulator-control unit (I) with the bracket (J) from the body. 5. Remove the
VSA modulator-control unit from the bracket.
Installation
1. Install the VSA modulator-control unit onto the bracket. 2. Install the bracket with the VSA
modulator-control unit to the body. 3. Reconnect the six brake lines, then tighten the flare nuts to
the specified torque. 4. Align the connecting surface of the VSA modulator-control unit 37P
connector to the VSA modulator-control unit. 5. Pull up the lever of the VSA modulator-control unit
37P connector, then confirm the connector is fully seated. 6. Bleed the brake system. 7. Do the
VSA sensor neutral position memorization. 8. Start the engine, and check that the ABS and the
VSA indicators go off. 9. Test-drive the vehicle, and check that the ABS, and the VSA indicators do
not come on.
NOTE: If the brake pedal is spongy, there may be air trapped in the modulator and then induced
into the normal brake system during modulation. Bleed the brake system again.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Antilock Brakes / Traction Control Systems > Hydraulic Control
Assembly - Antilock Brakes > Component Information > Locations
NOTE: Do not damage or drop the combination switch as the steering angle sensor is sensitive to
shock and vibration.
1. Remove the steering wheel. 2. Remove the steering column covers and the cable reel. 3.
Remove the combination switch assembly. 4. Remove the combination light switch (A) and the
wiper/washer switch (B).
5. Replace the combination switch (C). 6. Install the combination switch in the reverse order of
removal.
NOTE: ^
Do not remove the steering angle sensor from the combination switch body.
^ When installing the cable reel, set the turn signal canceling sleeve position.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Antilock Brakes / Traction Control Systems > Traction Control
Switch > Component Information > Locations
1. Remove the driver's dashboard lower cover. 2. Push out the VSA OFF switch (A) from the back
of the instrument panel.
3. Disconnect the VSA OFF switch 5P connector (B). 4. Check for continuity between VSA OFF
switch 5P connector terminals No. 1 and No. 2. There should be continuity when the switch is
pressed,
5. Check for continuity between VSA OFF switch 5P connector terminals No. 4 and No. 5. There
should be continuity at all times.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Antilock Brakes / Traction Control Systems > Wheel Speed
Sensor > Component Information > Locations > Component Locations
Front
1. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). 2. Release the clamp (A), then disconnect the wheel speed
sensor connector (B).
3. Remove the clips, the bolt, and the wheel speed sensor (C). 4. Install the wheel speed sensor in
the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
^ If the wheel speed sensor comes in contact with the wheel bearing, it is faulty.
5. Start the engine, and check that the ABS and the VSA indicators go off. 6. Test-drive the vehicle,
and check that the ABS and the VSA indicators do not come on.
Rear
1. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). 2. Release the clamp (A), then disconnect the wheel speed
sensor connector (B).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Antilock Brakes / Traction Control Systems > Wheel Speed
Sensor > Component Information > Locations > Page 5122
3. Remove the clips, the bolt, and the wheel speed sensor (C). 4. Install the wheel speed sensor in
the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
^ If the wheel speed sensor comes in contact with the hub bearing unit, it is faulty.
5. Start the engine, and check that the ABS and the VSA indicators go off. 6. Test-drive the vehicle,
and check that the ABS and the VSA indicators do not come on.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Antilock Brakes / Traction Control Systems > Yaw Rate Sensor
> Component Information > Locations
NOTE: Do not damage or drop the sensor as it is sensitive. Do not use power tools.
1. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). 2. Remove the center console. 3. Remove the yaw
rate-lateral acceleration sensor (A) mounting bolts.
4. Pull out the yaw rate-lateral acceleration sensor, then disconnect the sensor connector (B). 5.
Install the sensor in the reverse order of removal. 6. Do the VSA sensor neutral position
memorization.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Brake Bleeding > System Information > Service and Repair
NOTE: ^
Do not reuse the drained fluid. Use only clean Honda DOT 3 Brake Fluid from an unopened
container. Using a non-Honda brake fluid can cause corrosion and shorten the life of the system.
^ Do not mix different brands of brake fluid; they may not be compatible.
^ Make sure no dirt or other foreign matter is allowed to contaminate the brake fluid.
^ Do not spill brake fluid on the vehicle, it may damage the paint; if brake fluid does contact the
paint, wash it off immediately with water.
^ The reservoir connected to the master cylinder must be at the MAX (upper) level mark at the start
of the bleeding procedure and checked after bleeding each brake system. Add fluid as required.
1. Make sure the brake fluid level in the reservoir (A) is at the MAX (upper) level line (B).
2. Have someone slowly pump the brake pedal several times, then apply steady pressure. 3. Start
the bleeding at the driver's side of the front brake system.
4. Attach a length of clear drain tube (A) to the bleed screw (B), then, loosen the bleed screw to
allow air to escape from the system. Then tighten the
Pedal Height
1. Turn the brake pedal position switch (A) counterclockwise, and pull it back until it is no longer
touching the brake pedal.
2. Pull back the carpet and find the cutout in the insulation. Lift up the insulation cutout and
measure the pedal height (B) at the middle of the left
Standard pedal height (with carpet move aside): M/T: 153 mm (6 in.) A/T 158 mm (6 1/4 in.)
3. Loosen the pushrod locknut (A), and screw the pushrod (B) in or out with pliers until the standard
pedal height from the floor is reached. After
adjustment, tighten the locknut firmly. Do not adjust the pedal height with the pushrod pressed.
4. Lift up on the brake pedal by hand. Push in the brake pedal position switch until its plunger is
fully pressed (threaded end (A) touching the pad (B)
on the pedal arm). Then, turn the brake pedal position switch 45° clockwise to lock it. The gap
between the brake pedal position switch and the pad is automatically adjusted to 0.7 mm (0.028
in.) by locking the switch. Make sure the brake lights go off when the pedal is released.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Brake Pedal Assy > Component Information > Adjustments >
Page 5134
5. Check the brake pedal free play.
1. With the ignition switch at LOCK (0), inspect the pedal free play (A) at the pedal pad (B) by
pushing the pedal by hand. If the brake pedal free
2. Remove the lock pin (B) and joint pin (C). 3. Remove the brake pedal bracket mounting bolt (D)
and nuts (E). 4. Remove the brake pedal with bracket (F). 5. Install in the reverse order of removal.
6. Do the brake pedal and brake pedal position switch adjustment.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Brake Pedal Assy > Component Information > Service and
Repair > Brake Pedal Replacement > Page 5137
Brake Pedal Assy: Service and Repair Brake Pedal Cover Replacement
NOTE: This procedure shows a model equipped with a metal brake pedal cover.
1. Cover the carpet under the brake pedal to prevent metal shavings from getting on the carpet. 2.
Center-punch each of rivets (A), and drill their heads off with a 3 mm (0.12 in.) drill bit (B).
3. Remove the brake pedal plate (A) and the brake pedal cover (B) from the brake pedal pad (C).
4. Set the brake pedal cover to the brake pedal plate. 5. Install the brake pedal plate (A) with the
rivets (B) firmly.
6. Make sure the brake pedal cover and plate is securely fastened on the brake pedal. 7. Check the
brake pedal height.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Brake Warning Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams
> Diagram Information and Instructions
Brake Warning Indicator: Diagram Information and Instructions
Circuit Schematics
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Brake Warning Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams
> Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5142
Circuit Schematics
Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show
current flow, from power at the top of the diagram, to ground at the bottom.
Shared Circuits
Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that
connects one circuit to another, for example, is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it
pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or
component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring, check the operation of a
component it serves. If that component works, you know the shared wiring is OK.
Connectors
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Brake Warning Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams
> Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5143
All in-line and junction connectors are numbered (C725, C416, etc.). Component connectors are
not numbered but are identified either by the name of the component if the component only has
one connector, or by a capital letter (A, B, C, etc.) if the component has more than one connector.
Below most connector numbers and component names are PHOTO and VIEW numbers. The
PHOTO number refers to a photo at Vehicle Level Locations that shows the connector's location on
the car. The VIEW number refers to an connector view at the Vehicle Level Connector Views that
shows the connector terminals, wire colors, connector cavity numbers, and other details.
The connector cavity numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector as seen
from either of the viewpoints. Except for the DLC (data link connector), disregard any numbers
molded into the connector housing.
Wires
Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the
stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number "2" next to the male
and female wire terminals at C554, for example, means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector
C554.
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the vehicle. Refer to the Power Distribution Diagram Set to get a more detailed
understanding of how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on. Individual circuit
schematics begin with a fuse. So if Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another
circuit share a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good
and power is available to the inoperative circuit.
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share the same
ground point.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Brake Warning Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams
> Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5145
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Brake Warning Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams
> Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5146
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Brake Warning Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams
> Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5147
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Brake Warning Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams
> Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5148
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Brake Warning Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams
> Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5149
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Brake Warning Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams
> Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5150
How to Identify Connector Terminals
Connector terminals are numbered according to the cavities they are in. The cavities are numbered
starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side or looking at the
female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the
same. All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not
the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the
connector face.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Brake Warning Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams
> Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5151
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown above is #6.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Brake Warning Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams
> Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5152
The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice
connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for
all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement
terminal availability.
On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged,
replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If
any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it.
Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the
wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the
terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to
make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a
factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS.
Use the tools from Pin Tool Set. First, check the connector that you are about to repair.
- If it has a secondary terminal lock, go to Connectors With a Secondary Lock. A secondary lock,
found on most connectors on some models, is an additional locking device on the connector
housing as a backup for the primary lock on the terminal.
- If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock.
All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the
secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the
connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities.
EXAMPLE A:
EXAMPLE B:
EXAMPLE C:
EXAMPLE D:
2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW
TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE E:
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> Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5156
1. Remove the secondary locks.
2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW
TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE F:
3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of
connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary
in size and shape.
EXAMPLE A:
EXAMPLE B:
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Brake Warning Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams
> Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5158
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE C:
EXAMPLE D:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
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> Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5159
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE E:
EXAMPLE F:
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> Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5160
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE G:
1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct
replacement terminal based on the wire size range
NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part
number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available
through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures.
2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool.
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> Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5161
3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the
wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from
the kit.)
NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did,
cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again.
4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the
anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown
in step 3.
6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact.
- If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool
over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the
stops make contact.
- If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully
squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape.
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> Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5162
8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the following NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and
start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the
way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure
10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector.
Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too
short or when access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair.
On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged,
replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If
any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it.
1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from
Pin Tool Set.
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> Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5163
2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal,
then strip about half of the insulation off that piece.
This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal.
NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will
not nick or cut off any strands of wires.
3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and
same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit
onto the stripped end of the original wire.
5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the
pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more
than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at
the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the
harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make
each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail.
7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends
of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue
NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the
stripper.
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> Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5164
8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the
flare begins), and close the crimper handles far
enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click,
squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open.
9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the
wire all the way into the splice connector, and
squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until
the ratchet clicks again.
10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After
crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the
connector.
12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire(s), and shield them with
nonflammable material.
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> Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5165
13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the
gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat
evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete
when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube.
NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun.
Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the
wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size)
splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select
the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in
quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures.
Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the
Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching
connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body.
1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
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> Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5166
2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool.
NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal
because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit.
3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal
with a replacement terminal from the appropriate
Five-Step Troubleshooting
Five-Step Troubleshooting
Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint.
Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
problem area.
Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by
tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground (certain
circuits contain a "How the Circuit Works" Diagram set). Also, trace circuits that share wiring with
the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on,
are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step
1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used
only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely
cause.
Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more
possible causes.
Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple
procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to
make tests at points that are easily accessible.
Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe
procedures.
Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire
problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure
no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur.
Test Equipment
Test Equipment
CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
1O-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up
of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to
various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is
voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital
volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is
between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM).
In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low
resistance means good continuity.
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> Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5167
Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a
reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is
affecting the measurement.
To order any test equipment shown, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool
numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin.
Jumper Wire
Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder
connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire
across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse.
To order any test equipment shown, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool
numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin.
Troubleshooting Precautions
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION: -
Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
- Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles.
2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part
Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place.
CAUTION: -
Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
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> Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5168
- Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-mega
ohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that
contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
Troubleshooting Tests
Troubleshooting Tests
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt
ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest
"OHMS" range.
2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you
want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end.
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> Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5169
4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or
no reading (zero), means good continuity.
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem. Circuits must be operating when checking
voltage drop.
1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts
range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage
is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM
voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
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> Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5170
^ Never use an air hose or brush to clean brake assemblies. Use an appropriate vacuum cleaner.
Inspection
1. Raise the front of the vehicle, and support it with safety stands in the proper locations. 2.
Remove the front wheels. 3. Check the thickness (A) of the inner pad (B) and outer pad (C). Do not
include the thickness of the backing plate.
4. If the brake pad thickness is less than the service limit, replace the front brake pads as a set. 5.
Clean the mating surfaces of the brake disc and the inside of the wheel, then install the front
wheels.
Replacement
1. Remove some brake fluid from the master cylinder. 2. Raise the front of the vehicle, and support
it with safety stands in the proper locations. 3. Remove the front wheels. 4. Remove the flange bolt
(A) while holding the caliper pin (B) with a wrench. Be careful not to damage the pin boot, and pivot
the caliper (C) up out
of the way. Check the hose and pin boots for damage and deterioration.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Disc Brake System > Brake Caliper > Component Information >
Service and Repair > Removal and Replacement > Page 5176
5. Remove the pad shims (A) and brake pads (B).
7. Clean the caliper bracket (B) thoroughly; remove any rust, and check for grooves and cracks.
Verify that the caliper pins (C) move in and out
8. Inspect the brake disc, and check for damage and cracks. 9. Apply a thin coat of M-77 assembly
paste (P/N 08798-9010) to the retainers on their mating surfaces (indicated by the arrows) against
the caliper
bracket.
10. Install the pad retainers. Wipe excess assembly paste off the retainers. Keep the assembly
paste off the brake disc and brake pads. 11. Install the brake caliper piston compressor tool (A) on
the caliper body (B).
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Disc Brake System > Brake Caliper > Component Information >
Service and Repair > Removal and Replacement > Page 5177
12. Press in the piston with the brake caliper piston compressor so the caliper will fit over the brake
pads. Make sure the piston boot is in position to
NOTE: Be careful when pressing in the piston; brake fluid might overflow from the master cylinder's
reservoir.
13. Remove the brake caliper piston compressor tool. 14. Apply a thin coat of M-77 assembly paste
(P/N 08798-9010) to the pad side of the shims (A), the back of the brake pads (B) and the other
areas
indicated by the arrows. Wipe excess assembly paste off the pad shims and brake pads.
Contaminated brake discs or brake pads reduce stopping ability. Keep grease and assembly paste
off the brake disc and the brake pads.
15. Install the brake pads and the pad shims correctly. Install the brake pad with the wear indicator
(C) on the upper inside. If you are reusing the
brake pads, always reinstall the brake pads in their original positions to prevent a momentary loss
of braking efficiency.
16. Pivot the caliper down into position. Install the flange bolt (A), and tighten it to the specified
torque while holding the caliper pin (B), with a
17. Clean the mating surfaces of the brake disc and the inside of the wheel, then install the front
wheels. 18. Press the brake pedal several times to make sure the brakes work.
NOTE: Engagement may require a greater pedal stroke immediately after the brake pads have
been replaced as a set. Several applications of the brake pedal will restore the normal pedal
stroke.
19. Add brake fluid as needed. 20. After installation, check for leaks at the hose and line joints or
the connections, and retighten if necessary. Test-drive the vehicle, then recheck for
leaks.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Disc Brake System > Brake Caliper > Component Information >
Service and Repair > Removal and Replacement > Page 5179
CAUTION: Frequent inhalation of brake pad dust, regardless of material composition, could be
hazardous to your health. ^
^ Never use an air hose or brush to clean brake assemblies. Use an appropriate vacuum cleaner.
Remove, disassemble, inspect, reassemble, and install the caliper, and note these items:
NOTE: Make sure that the caliper pins are installed correctly. Upper caliper pin B and lower caliper
pin A are different. If caliper pins are installed in the wrong location, it will cause vibration, uneven
or rapid brake pad wear, and possibly uneven tire wear.
^ Do not spill brake fluid on the vehicle; it may damage the paint; if brake fluid gets on the paint,
wash it off immediately with water.
^ To prevent dripping brake fluid, cover disconnected hose joints with rags or shop towels.
^ Clean all parts in brake fluid and air dry; blow out all passages with compressed air.
^ Before reassembling, check that all parts are free of dirt and other foreign particles.
^ Make sure no grease or oil gets on the brake discs or the pads.
^ When reusing brake pads, always reinstall them in their original positions to prevent loss of
braking efficiency.
^ Do not reuse drained brake fluid. Use only clean Honda DOT 3 Brake Fluid from an unopened
container. Using a non-Honda brake fluid can cause corrosion and shorten the life of the system.
^ Do not mix different brands of brake fluid as they may not be compatible.
^ Coat the piston, the piston seal groove, and the caliper bore with clean brake fluid.
^ After installing the caliper, check the brake hose and line for leaks, interference, and twisting.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Disc Brake System > Brake Pad > Component Information >
Specifications
Brake Pad
Front
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Specifications > Page 5183
^ Never use an air hose or brush to clean brake assemblies. Use an appropriate vacuum cleaner.
Inspection
1. Raise the front of the vehicle, and support it with safety stands in the proper locations. 2.
Remove the front wheels. 3. Check the thickness (A) of the inner pad (B) and outer pad (C). Do not
include the thickness of the backing plate.
4. If the brake pad thickness is less than the service limit, replace the front brake pads as a set. 5.
Clean the mating surfaces of the brake disc and the inside of the wheel, then install the front
wheels.
Replacement
1. Remove some brake fluid from the master cylinder. 2. Raise the front of the vehicle, and support
it with safety stands in the proper locations. 3. Remove the front wheels. 4. Remove the flange bolt
(A) while holding the caliper pin (B) with a wrench. Be careful not to damage the pin boot, and pivot
the caliper (C) up out
of the way. Check the hose and pin boots for damage and deterioration.
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Specifications > Page 5184
5. Remove the pad shims (A) and brake pads (B).
7. Clean the caliper bracket (B) thoroughly; remove any rust, and check for grooves and cracks.
Verify that the caliper pins (C) move in and out
8. Inspect the brake disc, and check for damage and cracks. 9. Apply a thin coat of M-77 assembly
paste (P/N 08798-9010) to the retainers on their mating surfaces (indicated by the arrows) against
the caliper
bracket.
10. Install the pad retainers. Wipe excess assembly paste off the retainers. Keep the assembly
paste off the brake disc and brake pads. 11. Install the brake caliper piston compressor tool (A) on
the caliper body (B).
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Specifications > Page 5185
12. Press in the piston with the brake caliper piston compressor so the caliper will fit over the brake
pads. Make sure the piston boot is in position to
NOTE: Be careful when pressing in the piston; brake fluid might overflow from the master cylinder's
reservoir.
13. Remove the brake caliper piston compressor tool. 14. Apply a thin coat of M-77 assembly paste
(P/N 08798-9010) to the pad side of the shims (A), the back of the brake pads (B) and the other
areas
indicated by the arrows. Wipe excess assembly paste off the pad shims and brake pads.
Contaminated brake discs or brake pads reduce stopping ability. Keep grease and assembly paste
off the brake disc and the brake pads.
15. Install the brake pads and the pad shims correctly. Install the brake pad with the wear indicator
(C) on the upper inside. If you are reusing the
brake pads, always reinstall the brake pads in their original positions to prevent a momentary loss
of braking efficiency.
16. Pivot the caliper down into position. Install the flange bolt (A), and tighten it to the specified
torque while holding the caliper pin (B), with a
17. Clean the mating surfaces of the brake disc and the inside of the wheel, then install the front
wheels. 18. Press the brake pedal several times to make sure the brakes work.
NOTE: Engagement may require a greater pedal stroke immediately after the brake pads have
been replaced as a set. Several applications of the brake pedal will restore the normal pedal
stroke.
19. Add brake fluid as needed. 20. After installation, check for leaks at the hose and line joints or
the connections, and retighten if necessary. Test-drive the vehicle, then recheck for
leaks.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Disc Brake System > Brake Rotor/Disc > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Brakes - Brake Disc Refinishing Information
Brake Rotor/Disc: Technical Service Bulletins Brakes - Brake Disc Refinishing Information
00-088
(Supersedes 00-088, dated October 6, 2006, to revise the information marked with the black bars)
*REVISION SUMMARY
American Honda does not allow replacement of brake discs under warranty unless the brake disc
is beyond its service limit for refinishing. If the brake disc is within its service limit, you must refinish
it. Maximum refinishing limits may be found in the Conventional Brakes section of the appropriate
service manual.
*Refinish brake discs only when they are scored or out of specification for runout or parallelism.
See the appropriate service manual for the specifications.*
American Honda requires refinishing of the front brake discs with an on-car brake lathe that mounts
to the steering knuckle. Use of an on-car, steering knuckle- mounted lathe is critical because it
corrects runout of the hub and disc as an assembly. Experience has shown that very small
amounts of runout, not felt as brake pulsation initially, will grow and become noticeable as the discs
are subjected to heat and wear over time and mileage. Two on-car brake lathes are recommended.
The Kwik-Lathe, model number KWY-108000501, is supported with automatic shipments of
adapters for new models, when required. The Accu-turn On-car Brake Lathe, model
ACCHONOCLPKG, is also recommended.
A power driver is required for the 82000 and is highly recommended for all other models. The
Kwik-Lathe power driver model number is KWY-108012005; the Accu-turn lathe includes a power
driver. Here are some advantages of using power drivers:
^ The disc is rotated at the optimum speed for a smooth and consistent cut.
^ There is no need to climb in and out of the vehicle to start and stop the engine or to shift the
transmission.
^ There is no waiting for the engine to return to idle and no concern about engine speed changes
that can adversely affect brake disc cut and finish.
ORDERING INFORMATION
Order brake lathes and power drivers through the Honda Tool and Equipment Program. To place
an order, call or use the fax order form provided in your Honda Tool and Equipment Program
Catalog. Phone lines are open Monday thru Friday from 7:30 a.m. to 7:00 p.m. Central Time. You
can also order online through the Interactive Network (iN). Click on Service, Tool and Equipment,
and then Online Catalog. Click on Alignment, Wheel, and Brake Equipment, and then On-Car
Brake Lathes.
WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION
The following guidelines show the Kwik-Way lathe setup, the Accu-turn lathe setup is similar.
Put the transmission in Neutral. If you are not using the power drive system, start the engine, and
let it warm up to its normal operating temperature so the idle speed will stabilize to its lowest rpm.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Disc Brake System > Brake Rotor/Disc > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Brakes - Brake Disc Refinishing Information > Page 5191
Raise the vehicle on a lift.
Check for loose wheel bearings. You must replace loose wheel bearings before you refinish the
brake discs. If you do not, the brake lathe will not correct for brake disc runout, resulting in an
uneven finish and brake pulsation.
Remove the front wheels, then reinstall the wheel nuts with flat washers to compensate for the
removed wheel. Torque the wheel nuts to the required specification (see the appropriate service
manual).
Remove the caliper assembly. Use a wire or a S-hook to hold the caliper to the spring or damper
tower. Do not kink the brake hose or use it to support the caliper. If you are not using the power
drive system and the vehicle has ICS or VSA, make sure you install a brake pad spreader between
the pads on the hanging caliper. Also, make sure the ICS or VSA is turned off anytime the engine
is started. If the system is not turned off, the brakes could activate, causing the brake pads on the
hanging caliper to hit each other or the caliper pistons to fall out.
Install the vibration damper on the brake disc. If you are not using the power drive system, make
sure you install the protective band around the wheel nuts.
If you are not using the power drive system, use a fabric tie-down strap to secure the brake disc
that is opposite to the one you are refinishing. If you are working on a Prelude with ATTS, do not
use a tie-down strap; let both wheels turn freely.
Remove the tool bed from the brake lathe, then mount the brake lathe to the steering knuckle with
a Honda 1-piece speed mount. These mounts provide quicker, more accurate mounting, and can
be ordered through the Honda Tool and Equipment Program (see ORDERING INFORMATION).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Disc Brake System > Brake Rotor/Disc > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Brakes - Brake Disc Refinishing Information > Page 5192
Honda 1-Piece Speed Mounts
P/N KWY-108006000 (for most models), P/N KWY-108007500 (Odysseys, Pilots, and Ridgelines
with two-piston calipers)
1. Make sure the drive motor assembly on the power drive system is level with the brake disc.
2. Attach the mounting yoke to the brake disc, and secure it with one of the wheel nuts. Torque the
wheel nut to the required specification (see the
4. Set the lower toggle switch on the drive motor assembly to FWD (counterclockwise rotation) or
REV (clockwise rotation).
Use Kwik-Way cutting bits, P/N KWY-109109223, and the holding screws that come with them.
These bits are stamped KW and are available through the Honda Tool and Equipment Program
(see ORDERING INFORMATION).
Before you use the brake lathe, inspect the tips of the cutting bits with a magnifying glass to make
sure the tips are not worn out. Each bit has three tips. If a tip is worn, rotate the bit, and use a new
tip. A worn tip produces a poor finish and may cause chattering.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Disc Brake System > Brake Rotor/Disc > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Brakes - Brake Disc Refinishing Information > Page 5194
Reinstall the tool bed on the brake lathe with the top of the cutting bits facing up and the feed
knobs facing down. Adjust the tool bed until the brake disc is centered between the cutting bits. For
proper refinishing, the brake disc must turn toward the top of the cutting bits.
Do not set the cutting depth on the brake lathe to more than 0.2 mm (0.008 in.). This is two
divisions on the cutting knob. Make sure you start your cut at least 3 mm (0.12 in.) beyond the worn
area on the brake disc.
If you are cutting larger diameter brake discs, make sure you use the 150 cutting bit holders. These
bit holders, available through the Honda Tool and Equipment Program (see ORDERING
INFORMATION), supersede the original bit holders and provide better cutting coverage for larger
diameter brake discs. Each bit holder is clearly marked for proper installation on the tool holder.
To get the smoothest cut and the best brake disc finish, always use the slowest feed speed on the
tool bed feed motor. Place the drive belt on the smallest pulley of the feed motor and on the largest
pulley of the hand wheel.
Make sure the lower toggle switch on the power drive system drive motor assembly is set to the
proper rotation to turn the brake disc toward the top of the cutting bits. Plug the tool bed feed motor
into the power outlet on the drive motor assembly, then turn on the drive motor with the upper
toggle switch on the assembly.
If you are not using the power drive system, make sure the transmission is in 1st gear (2nd gear on
Preludes with ATTS) or Reverse and the engine is idling, but not at a fast idle. If the transmission
and engine are at higher gears and speeds, you will damage the cutting bits.
Turn on the tool bed feed motor, and snap it into place; there should be tension on the feed belt.
Cut the brake disc until the cutting bits clear the outer edge of the disc. The cutting bits should
produce a smooth, consistent finish with no chatter marks or grooves.
If the disc did not clean up entirely on the first pass, reset the brake lathe and make a second pass.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Disc Brake System > Brake Rotor/Disc > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Brakes - Brake Disc Refinishing Information > Page 5195
Remove the vibration damper and the protective band (if used). Use a micrometer to measure the
thickness of the brake disc. Make sure the thickness is within the service manual specifications.
Clean the brake disc with soapy water or brake cleaner, then wipe it dry. Use a vacuum cleaner to
remove any dust or chips, but do not use compressed air.
Unplug the tool bed feed motor from the drive motor assembly, and remove the mounting yoke
from the brake disc. Remove the speed mount from the steering knuckle.
Apply a small amount of Molykote 77 grease to the brake pad shims. Reinstall the caliper
assembly. (If you did not use the power drive system, use the brake pad spreader to push the
pistons back into the caliper.)
Torque the nuts and bolts to the required specification (see the appropriate service manual).
Refinish the other front brake disc using the same guidelines.
Check the brake fluid level, then test-drive the vehicle to make sure the brake pedal is firm and
does not pulsate. Lightly apply the brakes about 20 times during the test-drive to seat the brake
pads.
It is possible to use an on-car lathe on some models if the rear caliper mounts are low enough to
clear the vehicle body. A power driver is needed for front drive models. Refinish rear brake discs on
bench-mounted equipment if necessary.
Follow the same guidelines you used for refinishing front brake discs, noting these differences:
^ Mount the brake lathe to the rear knuckle with the Honda 2-Piece Adapter (P/N KWY-1
08102504). You can order the 2-piece adapter through the Honda Tool and Equipment Program
(see ORDERING INFORMATION).
Disclaimer
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Disc Brake System > Brake Rotor/Disc > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 5196
Brake Disc
Front
Parallelism
Runout
1. Raise the front of the vehicle, and support it with safety stands in the proper locations. 2.
Remove the front wheels. 3. Remove the brake pads. 4. Inspect the brake disc surface for damage
and cracks. Clean the brake disc thoroughly, and remove all rust. 5. Install suitable flat washers (A)
and the wheel nuts (B), then tighten the wheel nuts to the specified torque to hold the brake disc
securely against
the hub.
6. Set up the dial gauge against the brake disc as shown, and measure the runout at 10 mm (3/8
in.) from the outer edge of the brake disc.
7. If the brake disc is beyond the service limit, refinish the brake disc with a commercially available
on-car brake lathe.
NOTE: ^
If the brake disc is beyond the service limit for refinishing, replace it.
^ A new brake disc should be refinished if its runout is greater than 0.04 mm (0.0016 in.).
Replace the brake disc if the smallest measurement is less than the max. refinishing limit.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Disc Brake System > Brake Rotor/Disc > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 5198
5. If the brake disc is beyond the service limit for parallelism, refinish the brake disc with a
commercially available on-car brake lathe.
NOTE: If the brake disc is beyond the service limit for refinishing, replace it.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Disc Brake System > Brake Rotor/Disc > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 5199
NOTE: Keep any grease off the brake disc and brake pads.
1. Raise the front of the vehicle, and support it with safety stands in the proper locations. 2.
Remove the front wheel. 3. Remove the brake hose mounting bolt (A) from the damper.
4. Remove the brake caliper bracket mounting bolts (B), then remove the caliper assembly (C) from
the knuckle. To prevent damage to the caliper
assembly or brake hose, use a short piece of wire to hang the caliper assembly from the
undercarriage. Do not twist the brake hose excessively.
NOTE: If the brake disc is stuck to the front hub, thread two 8 x 1.25 mm bolts (C) into the brake
disc to push it away from the front hub. Turn each bolt 90 degrees at a time to prevent the brake
disc from binding.
NOTE: Before installing the brake disc, clean the mating surface of the front hub and the inside of
the brake disc.
8. Clean the mating surfaces of the brake disc and the inside of the wheel, then install the front
wheel.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Drum Brake System > Brake Drum > Component Information >
Specifications
CAUTION: Frequent inhalation of brake pad dust, regardless of material composition, could be
hazardous to your health. Avoid breathing dust particles. Never use an air hose or brush to clean
brake assemblies. Use an OSHA-approved vacuum cleaner.
1. Raise the rear of the vehicle, and support it with safety stands in the proper locations. 2. Remove
the rear wheels. 3. Release the parking brake, and remove the rear brake drum.
5. Check the brake linings (B) for cracking, glazing, wear, and contamination.
6. Measure the brake lining thickness (C). Measurement does not include brake shoe thickness.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Drum Brake System > Brake Drum > Component Information >
Specifications > Page 5205
Brake lining thickness: Standard: 4.5 mm (0.18 in.) Service limit: 2.0 mm (0.08 in.)
7. If the brake lining thickness is less than the service limit, replace the brake shoes as a set. 8.
Check the hub bearing unit (D) for smooth operation. If it requires servicing, replace the hub
bearing unit. 9. Measure the inside diameter of the brake drum with inside vernier calipers.
10. If the inside diameter of the brake drum is more than the service limit, replace the brake drum.
11. Check the brake drum for scoring, grooves, corrosion, and cracks. 12. Clean the mating
surfaces of the brake drum and the inside of the wheel, then install the rear wheels.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Drum Brake System > Brake Drum > Component Information >
Specifications > Page 5206
NOTE: Keep any grease off the brake drum and brake shoes.
1. Raise the rear of the vehicle, and support it with safety stands in the proper locations. 2. Remove
the rear wheel. 3. Release the parking brake, and remove the brake drum (A) from the hub bearing
unit.
NOTE: ^
Before installing the brake drum, clean the mating surfaces of the rear hub bearing unit and the
inside of the brake drum.
^ After installation, press the brake pedal several times to make sure the brakes work and self
adjust the brake shoes. Do not drive before doing this procedure.
5. Clean the mating surfaces of the brake drum and the inside of the wheel, then install the rear
wheel.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Drum Brake System > Brake Shoe > Component Information >
Specifications
Brake Shoe: Specifications
CAUTION: Frequent inhalation of brake pad dust, regardless of material composition, could be
hazardous to your health. ^
^ Never use an air hose or brush to clean brake assemblies. Use an OSHA-approved vacuum
cleaner.
Disassembly
1. Raise the rear of the vehicle, and support it with safety stands in the proper locations. 2. Remove
the rear wheels. 3. Release the parking brake, and remove the brake drum. 4. Unhook the upper
return spring (A) from the rearward shoe using the brake spring installer (B).
5. Remove the tension pins (A) by pushing respective retainer spring (B) and turning the pin.
6. Remove the lower return spring (A), and remove the brake shoe assembly over the hub.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Drum Brake System > Brake Shoe > Component Information >
Specifications > Page 5211
7. Remove the forward brake shoe (B) by removing the upper return spring (C), and disassemble
the brake shoe assembly. 8. Remove the rearward brake shoe (D) by disconnecting the parking
brake cable from the parking brake lever (E). 9. Remove the U-clip (A), and the wave washer (B),
then separate the parking brake lever (C) from the brake shoe (D).
Reassembly
1. Apply rubber grease to the sliding surface of the pivot pin (A) on the parking brake lever (B).
2. Install the rearward brake shoe (C) and the wave washer (D) on the pivot pin, then secure the
lever to the shoe with a new U-clip (E).
NOTE: Pinch the U-clip securely to prevent the parking brake lever from coming out of the brake
shoe.
3. Connect the parking brake cable to the parking brake lever. 4. Apply a thin coat of rubber grease
to the connecting rod ends (A), and the sliding surfaces (B) as shown. Wipe off any excess. Keep
grease off the
brake linings.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Drum Brake System > Brake Shoe > Component Information >
Specifications > Page 5212
5. Apply a thin coat of Molykote 44MA grease to the shoe ends (A) and to the edge of the shoe
surfaces (B) that make contact with the backing plate
as shown. Wipe off any excess. Keep grease off the brake linings.
7. Assemble the brake shoes, the upper return spring (D), and the connecting rods with the
adjuster bolt against the backing plate, then install the
self-adjuster lever (E) and the self-adjuster spring (F) on the forward brake shoe (G).
8. Install the tension pins (A) and the retainer springs (B) by pushing in the respective spring and
turning the pin.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Drum Brake System > Brake Shoe > Component Information >
Specifications > Page 5213
9. Install the lower return spring.
NOTE: Make sure the brake shoes positioning on the brake shoe bosses of the backing plate, and
fitting the top of the brake shoes onto the wheel cylinder pistons.
10. Hook the end (A) of the upper return spring (B) with the brake spring installer (C).
NOTE: Before installing the brake drum, clean the mating surfaces of the rear hub and the inside of
the brake drum.
12. Install the rear wheels. 13. Press the brake pedal several times to make sure the brakes work
and to set the self-adjusting brake.
NOTE: Engagement of the brakes may require a greater pedal stroke immediately after the brake
shoes have been replaced as a set. Several applications of the brake pedal will restore the normal
pedal stroke.
NOTE: ^
Do not spill brake fluid on the vehicle; it may damage the paint; if brake fluid does contact the paint,
wash it off immediately with water.
^ To prevent spills, cover the hose joints with rags or shop towels.
1. Remove the brake shoes. 2. Disconnect the brake line (A) from the wheel cylinder (B).
3. Remove the bolts (C) and the wheel cylinder from the backing plate.
4. Apply Cemedine 366E sealant or equivalent between the wheel cylinder and backing plate (D),
and install the wheel cylinder, then connect the
brake line.
5. Install the brake shoes. 6. Bleed the brake system. 7. Do the parking brake inspection and
adjustment. 8. Spin the wheels to check for brake drag. 9. After installation, check for leaks at hose
and line joints or connections, and retighten if necessary. Test-drive the vehicle, then check for
leaks.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Brake Bleeding > System
Information > Service and Repair
NOTE: ^
Do not reuse the drained fluid. Use only clean Honda DOT 3 Brake Fluid from an unopened
container. Using a non-Honda brake fluid can cause corrosion and shorten the life of the system.
^ Do not mix different brands of brake fluid; they may not be compatible.
^ Make sure no dirt or other foreign matter is allowed to contaminate the brake fluid.
^ Do not spill brake fluid on the vehicle, it may damage the paint; if brake fluid does contact the
paint, wash it off immediately with water.
^ The reservoir connected to the master cylinder must be at the MAX (upper) level mark at the start
of the bleeding procedure and checked after bleeding each brake system. Add fluid as required.
1. Make sure the brake fluid level in the reservoir (A) is at the MAX (upper) level line (B).
2. Have someone slowly pump the brake pedal several times, then apply steady pressure. 3. Start
the bleeding at the driver's side of the front brake system.
4. Attach a length of clear drain tube (A) to the bleed screw (B), then, loosen the bleed screw to
allow air to escape from the system. Then tighten the
^ Never use an air hose or brush to clean brake assemblies. Use an appropriate vacuum cleaner.
Inspection
1. Raise the front of the vehicle, and support it with safety stands in the proper locations. 2.
Remove the front wheels. 3. Check the thickness (A) of the inner pad (B) and outer pad (C). Do not
include the thickness of the backing plate.
4. If the brake pad thickness is less than the service limit, replace the front brake pads as a set. 5.
Clean the mating surfaces of the brake disc and the inside of the wheel, then install the front
wheels.
Replacement
1. Remove some brake fluid from the master cylinder. 2. Raise the front of the vehicle, and support
it with safety stands in the proper locations. 3. Remove the front wheels. 4. Remove the flange bolt
(A) while holding the caliper pin (B) with a wrench. Be careful not to damage the pin boot, and pivot
the caliper (C) up out
of the way. Check the hose and pin boots for damage and deterioration.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Brake Caliper > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Removal and Replacement > Page 5226
5. Remove the pad shims (A) and brake pads (B).
7. Clean the caliper bracket (B) thoroughly; remove any rust, and check for grooves and cracks.
Verify that the caliper pins (C) move in and out
8. Inspect the brake disc, and check for damage and cracks. 9. Apply a thin coat of M-77 assembly
paste (P/N 08798-9010) to the retainers on their mating surfaces (indicated by the arrows) against
the caliper
bracket.
10. Install the pad retainers. Wipe excess assembly paste off the retainers. Keep the assembly
paste off the brake disc and brake pads. 11. Install the brake caliper piston compressor tool (A) on
the caliper body (B).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Brake Caliper > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Removal and Replacement > Page 5227
12. Press in the piston with the brake caliper piston compressor so the caliper will fit over the brake
pads. Make sure the piston boot is in position to
NOTE: Be careful when pressing in the piston; brake fluid might overflow from the master cylinder's
reservoir.
13. Remove the brake caliper piston compressor tool. 14. Apply a thin coat of M-77 assembly paste
(P/N 08798-9010) to the pad side of the shims (A), the back of the brake pads (B) and the other
areas
indicated by the arrows. Wipe excess assembly paste off the pad shims and brake pads.
Contaminated brake discs or brake pads reduce stopping ability. Keep grease and assembly paste
off the brake disc and the brake pads.
15. Install the brake pads and the pad shims correctly. Install the brake pad with the wear indicator
(C) on the upper inside. If you are reusing the
brake pads, always reinstall the brake pads in their original positions to prevent a momentary loss
of braking efficiency.
16. Pivot the caliper down into position. Install the flange bolt (A), and tighten it to the specified
torque while holding the caliper pin (B), with a
17. Clean the mating surfaces of the brake disc and the inside of the wheel, then install the front
wheels. 18. Press the brake pedal several times to make sure the brakes work.
NOTE: Engagement may require a greater pedal stroke immediately after the brake pads have
been replaced as a set. Several applications of the brake pedal will restore the normal pedal
stroke.
19. Add brake fluid as needed. 20. After installation, check for leaks at the hose and line joints or
the connections, and retighten if necessary. Test-drive the vehicle, then recheck for
leaks.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Brake Caliper > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Removal and Replacement > Page 5229
CAUTION: Frequent inhalation of brake pad dust, regardless of material composition, could be
hazardous to your health. ^
^ Never use an air hose or brush to clean brake assemblies. Use an appropriate vacuum cleaner.
Remove, disassemble, inspect, reassemble, and install the caliper, and note these items:
NOTE: Make sure that the caliper pins are installed correctly. Upper caliper pin B and lower caliper
pin A are different. If caliper pins are installed in the wrong location, it will cause vibration, uneven
or rapid brake pad wear, and possibly uneven tire wear.
^ Do not spill brake fluid on the vehicle; it may damage the paint; if brake fluid gets on the paint,
wash it off immediately with water.
^ To prevent dripping brake fluid, cover disconnected hose joints with rags or shop towels.
^ Clean all parts in brake fluid and air dry; blow out all passages with compressed air.
^ Before reassembling, check that all parts are free of dirt and other foreign particles.
^ Make sure no grease or oil gets on the brake discs or the pads.
^ When reusing brake pads, always reinstall them in their original positions to prevent loss of
braking efficiency.
^ Do not reuse drained brake fluid. Use only clean Honda DOT 3 Brake Fluid from an unopened
container. Using a non-Honda brake fluid can cause corrosion and shorten the life of the system.
^ Do not mix different brands of brake fluid as they may not be compatible.
^ Coat the piston, the piston seal groove, and the caliper bore with clean brake fluid.
^ After installing the caliper, check the brake hose and line for leaks, interference, and twisting.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Brake Fluid > Component
Information > Specifications
Brake Fluid: Specifications
Honda heavy duty brake fluid DOT 3 preferred, or a DOT 3 or DOT 4 brake fluid as a temporary
replacement.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Brake Fluid Level Sensor/Switch >
Component Information > Locations
Check for continuity between the terminals (1) and (2) with the float in the down position and in the
up position.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Brake Hose/Line > Component
Information > Testing and Inspection
1. Inspect the brake hoses for damage, deterioration, leaks, interference, and twisting. 2. Check the
brake lines for damage, rusting, and leaks. Also check for bent brake lines. 3. Check for leaks at
hose and line joints and connections, and retighten if necessary. 4. Check the master cylinder and
the ABS or VSA modulator-control unit for damage and leaks.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Brake Hose/Line > Component
Information > Testing and Inspection > Page 5242
Before reassembling, check that all parts are free of dirt and other foreign particles.
^ Do not spill brake fluid on the vehicle; it may damage the paint; if brake fluid gets on the paint,
wash it off immediately with water.
^ To prevent the brake fluid from flowing, plug and cover the hose ends and joints with a shop
towel or equivalent material.
^ The illustrations show only the front of the vehicle except where the procedure is different for the
rear.
1. Remove the wheel. 2. Disconnect the brake hose (A) from the brake line (B) using a 10 mm
flare-nut wrench (C).
3. With clip type: Remove the brake hose clip (A) from the brake hose (B).
4. Disc brake type: Remove the banjo bolt (C), and disconnect the brake hose from the caliper. 5.
Remove the brake hose mounting bolt(s) (D), then remove the brake hose.
NOTE: Without clip type: Remove the brake hose with the bracket.
6. Install the brake hose (A) with the brake hose mounting bolt (B).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Brake Hose/Line > Component
Information > Testing and Inspection > Page 5243
7. Disc brake type: Connect the brake hose to the caliper with the banjo bolt (C) and new sealing
washers (D). 8. Position the brake hose ends (A).
NOTE: ^
With clip type: Install the brake hose on the brake hose bracket (B) with a new brake hose clip (C).
^ Without clip type: Install the brake hose bracket (D) to the frame.
10. After installing the brake hose, bleed the brake system. 11. Do the following check:
^ Check the brake hose and line joint for leaks, and tighten if necessary.
^ Before reassembling, check that all parts are free of dirt and other foreign particles.
^ Do not try to disassemble the master cylinder assembly. Replace the master cylinder assembly
with a new part if necessary.
2. If the reservoir tank hose was disconnected, install the reservoir tank (A) and the reservoir tank
hose (B) to the sub-reservoir (C).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Brake Master Cylinder >
Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Page 5253
Brake Master Cylinder: Service and Repair
NOTICE: ^
Do not spill brake fluid on the vehicle; it may damage the paint; if brake fluid gets on the paint,
wash it off immediately with water.
^ Be careful not to damage or deform the brake lines during removal and installation.
^ To prevent the brake fluid from flowing, plug and cover the hose ends and joints with a shop
towel or equivalent.
1. Remove the air cleaner. 2. Remove the reservoir cap and brake fluid from the master cylinder
reservoir with a syringe. 3. Disconnect the brake fluid level switch connector (A).
4. Remove the reservoir tank mounting bolt (B). 5. Disconnect the brake lines (A) from the master
cylinder (B). To prevent spills, cover the hose joints with rags or shop towels.
6. Remove the master cylinder mounting nuts (C) and washers (D). 7. Remove the master cylinder
from the brake booster (E). Be careful not to bend or damage the brake lines when removing the
master cylinder. 8. Remove the rod seal (F) from the master cylinder.
NOTE: During installation, set the new rod seal onto the master cylinder with its grooved side (G)
toward the master cylinder.
9. Install the master cylinder in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
^ Coat the inner bore lip and outer circumference of the new rod seal with the Shin-Etsu silicone
grease (P/N 08798-9013).
^ Check the brake pedal height and free play after installing the master cylinder, and adjust if
necessary.
10. Bleed the brake system. 11. Spin the wheels to check for brake drag.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Wheel Cylinder > Component
Information > Service and Repair
NOTE: ^
Do not spill brake fluid on the vehicle; it may damage the paint; if brake fluid does contact the paint,
wash it off immediately with water.
^ To prevent spills, cover the hose joints with rags or shop towels.
1. Remove the brake shoes. 2. Disconnect the brake line (A) from the wheel cylinder (B).
3. Remove the bolts (C) and the wheel cylinder from the backing plate.
4. Apply Cemedine 366E sealant or equivalent between the wheel cylinder and backing plate (D),
and install the wheel cylinder, then connect the
brake line.
5. Install the brake shoes. 6. Bleed the brake system. 7. Do the parking brake inspection and
adjustment. 8. Spin the wheels to check for brake drag. 9. After installation, check for leaks at hose
and line joints or connections, and retighten if necessary. Test-drive the vehicle, then check for
leaks.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Parking Brake System > Parking Brake Cable > Component
Information > Adjustments
Parking Brake Cable: Adjustments
Inspection
1. Pull the parking brake lever (A) with 196 N (20 kgf, 44 lbf) of force to fully apply the parking
brake. The parking brake lever should be locked
1. Remove the center console panel. 2. Release the parking brake lever fully. 3. Loosen the
parking brake adjusting nut (A).
4. Raise the rear of the vehicle, and support it with safety stands in the proper locations. 5. Remove
the rear wheels. 6. Make sure the parking brake lever (A) on the rear brake caliper contacts the
stop pin (B).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Parking Brake System > Parking Brake Cable > Component
Information > Adjustments > Page 5261
7. Clean the mating surfaces of the brake disc and the inside of the wheel, then install the rear
wheels. 8. Pull the parking brake lever 1 click. 9. Tighten the parking brake adjusting nut until the
parking brakes drag slightly when the rear wheels are turned.
10. Release the parking brake lever fully, and check that the parking brakes do not drag when the
rear wheels are turned. Readjust if necessary. 11. Make sure the parking brakes are fully applied
when the parking brake lever is pulled all the way (8 to 10 clicks). 12. Install the center console
panel.
1. Remove the center console panel. 2. Release the parking brake lever fully. 3. Loosen the
parking brake adjusting nut (A).
4. Press the brake pedal several times to set the self-adjusting brake before adjusting the parking
brake. 5. Pull the parking brake lever 1 click. 6. Tighten the parking brake adjusting nut until the
parking brakes drag slightly when the rear wheels are turned. 7. Release the parking brake lever
fully, and check that the parking brakes do not drag when the rear wheels are turned. Readjust if
necessary. 8. Make sure the parking brakes are fully applied when the parking brake lever is pulled
all the way (8 to 10 clicks). 9. Install the center console panel.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Parking Brake System > Parking Brake Cable > Component
Information > Adjustments > Page 5262
Parking Brake Cable: Service and Repair
NOTE: ^
The parking brake cables must not be bent or distorted. This will lead to stiff operation and
premature failure.
1. Loosen the parking brake cable adjusting nut. 2. Remove the brake drum and the shoes, and
disconnect the parking brake cable from the parking brake lever. 3. Remove the flange bolts (A)
and the parking brake cable (B) from the backing plate (C).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Parking Brake System > Parking Brake Cable > Component
Information > Adjustments > Page 5263
4. Reinstall the parking brake cable in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
^ Connect the parking brake cable to the brake lever, and install the brake shoes and drum.
^ Do the parking brake adjustment. Apply the parking brake firmly 10 times then adjust it again.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Parking Brake System > Parking Brake Lever > Component
Information > Service and Repair
Parking Brake Lever: Service and Repair
Removal
Lever Grip
1. Remove the center console. 2. Pull up the parking brake fully (8 to 10 clicks). 3. Start at the front
edge (A), peel lever grip away from lever cap (B). Continue to peel the grip from the lever to gain
access to the hooks (C).
4. Push in both sides of the hook (A) on the lever cap (B), and remove the lever cap and the
pushrod (C) with the knob (D).
Lever Cover
6. Remove the clip (A) on the driver's side of the parking brake lever cover (B).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Parking Brake System > Parking Brake Lever > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Page 5267
7. Separate the parking brake lever covers, and remove them.
Installation
Lever Cover
1. Install the clip (A) on driver's side of the parking brake lever cover (B) to the lever (C).
2. Install the passenger's side of the parking brake lever cover (D), and squeeze both sides of the
cover together.
Lever Grip
4. Install a new lever cap (A) on to the lever by aligning the notch (B) in the cap with the tab (C) on
the lever.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Parking Brake System > Parking Brake Lever > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Page 5268
5. With the lever cap and grip in position, push down on the cap to lock the hooks (D) into place. 6.
Carefully peel back the front edge (A) of the lever grip, and apply a small amount of gel type super
glue (B). Carefully push the grip back into
7. Install a new pushrod (A) with the knob (B), and push them into the parking brake lever (C).
8. Release and pull the parking brake about 10 times. 9. Check the push knob play of about 2 mm
(0.08 in.) and that the parking brake lever moves smoothly, then do the parking brake inspection.
NOTE: If both the ABS indicator and the brake system indicator come on at the same time, check
the ABS or VSA system first.
1. Remove the center console. 2. Disconnect the parking brake switch connector (A) from the
parking brake switch (B).
3. Check for continuity between the switch terminal (C) and body ground.
NOTE: If the parking brake switch and fluid level switch are OK, but the brake system indicator
does not function, do the gauge control module test.
Functional Test
1. With the ignition switch at LOCK (0), press the brake pedal several times to deplete the vacuum
reservoir, then press the brake pedal hard, and
hold it for 15 seconds. If the brake pedal sinks, either the master cylinder is bypassing internally, or
the brake system is leaking. Inspect the brake hoses and lines.
2. Start the engine with the brake pedal pressed. If the brake pedal sinks slightly, the vacuum
booster is operating normally. If the brake pedal height
Leak Test
1. Press the brake pedal with the engine running, then stop the engine. The brake pedal height
should not vary while pressed for 30 seconds. If the
2. Start the engine and let it idle for 30 seconds. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0), and wait 30
seconds. Press the brake pedal several times using
normal pressure. When the pedal is first pressed, it should be low. On consecutive applications, the
pedal height should gradually rise. Does the pedal rise on each consecutive application? If it rises
the booster is OK. If it does not go to step 3.
3. Disconnect the brake booster vacuum hose (A) at the booster. The check valve is built into the
hose.
4. Start the engine, and let it idle. There should be vacuum available. If no vacuum is available, the
check valve is not working properly. Replace the
brake booster vacuum hose and check valve, and retest. If vacuum is found, go to step 5.
5. With the engine off, reconnect the vacuum hose to the brake booster. 6. Start the engine, and
then pinch the brake booster vacuum hose between the check valve and the booster. 7. Turn the
ignition switch to LOCK (0), and wait 30 seconds. Press the brake pedal several times using
normal pressure. When the pedal is first
pressed, it should be low. On consecutive applications, the pedal height should gradually rise. ^
If the pedal position does not vary inspect the seal between the master cylinder and booster. If the
seal is OK, replace the brake booster.
^ If the pedal position varies, replace the brake booster vacuum hose/check valve as an assembly.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Power Brake Assist > Vacuum Brake Booster > Component
Information > Testing and Inspection > Page 5280
Vacuum Brake Booster: Service and Repair
Except Si Model
1. Remove the master cylinder. 2. Disconnect the brake booster vacuum hose (A) from the brake
booster (B).
5. Remove the lock pin (A) and the joint pin (B), then disconnect the yoke from the brake pedal.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Power Brake Assist > Vacuum Brake Booster > Component
Information > Testing and Inspection > Page 5281
6. Remove the brake booster mounting nuts (C). 7. Pull the brake booster (A) forward.
8. Remove the brake booster (A) by pulling it out and turning it, and remove it from the engine
compartment.
9. Install the brake booster in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
Si Model
1. Remove the master cylinder. 2. Disconnect the brake booster vacuum hose (A) from the brake
booster (B).
4. Remove the air cleaner bracket (B). 5. Remove the lock pin (A) and the joint pin (B), then
disconnect the yoke from the brake pedal.
6. Remove the brake booster mounting nuts (C). 7. Pull the brake booster (A) forward.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Power Brake Assist > Vacuum Brake Booster > Component
Information > Testing and Inspection > Page 5283
8. Remove the brake booster by pulling it out and turning it, and remove it from the engine
compartment. 9. Install the brake booster in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
^ Check the brake pedal height and free play after installing the master cylinder, and adjust it if
necessary.
NOTE: ^
Do not spill brake-fluid on the vehicle; it may damage the paint; if brake fluid gets on the paint,
wash it off immediately with water.
^ Be careful not to damage or deform the brake lines during removal and installation.
^ To prevent the brake fluid from flowing, plug and cover the hose ends and joints with a shop
towel or equivalent material.
Removal
1. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). 2. Disconnect the VSA modulator-control unit 37P
connector (A) by pushing the lock (B) and pulling down the lever (C); the connector disconnects
itself.
3. Disconnect the six brake lines from the VSA modulator-control unit.
NOTE: Brake lines are connected to the master cylinder (D) and to the right-front (E), the left-rear
(F), the right-rear (G), and the left-front (H) brake systems.
4. Remove the VSA modulator-control unit (I) with the bracket (J) from the body. 5. Remove the
VSA modulator-control unit from the bracket.
Installation
1. Install the VSA modulator-control unit onto the bracket. 2. Install the bracket with the VSA
modulator-control unit to the body. 3. Reconnect the six brake lines, then tighten the flare nuts to
the specified torque. 4. Align the connecting surface of the VSA modulator-control unit 37P
connector to the VSA modulator-control unit. 5. Pull up the lever of the VSA modulator-control unit
37P connector, then confirm the connector is fully seated. 6. Bleed the brake system. 7. Do the
VSA sensor neutral position memorization. 8. Start the engine, and check that the ABS and the
VSA indicators go off. 9. Test-drive the vehicle, and check that the ABS, and the VSA indicators do
not come on.
NOTE: If the brake pedal is spongy, there may be air trapped in the modulator and then induced
into the normal brake system during modulation. Bleed the brake system again.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Sensors and Switches - Brakes and Traction Control > Brake
Fluid Level Sensor/Switch > Component Information > Locations
Check for continuity between the terminals (1) and (2) with the float in the down position and in the
up position.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Sensors and Switches - Brakes and Traction Control > Braking
Sensor/Switch > Component Information > Locations
Pedal Height
1. Turn the brake pedal position switch (A) counterclockwise, and pull it back until it is no longer
touching the brake pedal.
2. Pull back the carpet and find the cutout in the insulation. Lift up the insulation cutout and
measure the pedal height (B) at the middle of the left
Standard pedal height (with carpet move aside): M/T: 153 mm (6 in.) A/T 158 mm (6 1/4 in.)
3. Loosen the pushrod locknut (A), and screw the pushrod (B) in or out with pliers until the standard
pedal height from the floor is reached. After
adjustment, tighten the locknut firmly. Do not adjust the pedal height with the pushrod pressed.
4. Lift up on the brake pedal by hand. Push in the brake pedal position switch until its plunger is
fully pressed (threaded end (A) touching the pad (B)
on the pedal arm). Then, turn the brake pedal position switch 45° clockwise to lock it. The gap
between the brake pedal position switch and the pad is automatically adjusted to 0.7 mm (0.028
in.) by locking the switch. Make sure the brake lights go off when the pedal is released.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Sensors and Switches - Brakes and Traction Control > Braking
Sensor/Switch > Component Information > Locations > Page 5309
5. Check the brake pedal free play.
1. With the ignition switch at LOCK (0), inspect the pedal free play (A) at the pedal pad (B) by
pushing the pedal by hand. If the brake pedal free
NOTE: If both the ABS indicator and the brake system indicator come on at the same time, check
the ABS or VSA system first.
1. Remove the center console. 2. Disconnect the parking brake switch connector (A) from the
parking brake switch (B).
3. Check for continuity between the switch terminal (C) and body ground.
NOTE: If the parking brake switch and fluid level switch are OK, but the brake system indicator
does not function, do the gauge control module test.
NOTE: Do not damage or drop the combination switch as the steering angle sensor is sensitive to
shock and vibration.
1. Remove the steering wheel. 2. Remove the steering column covers and the cable reel. 3.
Remove the combination switch assembly. 4. Remove the combination light switch (A) and the
wiper/washer switch (B).
5. Replace the combination switch (C). 6. Install the combination switch in the reverse order of
removal.
NOTE: ^
Do not remove the steering angle sensor from the combination switch body.
^ When installing the cable reel, set the turn signal canceling sleeve position.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Sensors and Switches - Brakes and Traction Control > Traction
Control Switch > Component Information > Locations
1. Remove the driver's dashboard lower cover. 2. Push out the VSA OFF switch (A) from the back
of the instrument panel.
3. Disconnect the VSA OFF switch 5P connector (B). 4. Check for continuity between VSA OFF
switch 5P connector terminals No. 1 and No. 2. There should be continuity when the switch is
pressed,
5. Check for continuity between VSA OFF switch 5P connector terminals No. 4 and No. 5. There
should be continuity at all times.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Sensors and Switches - Brakes and Traction Control > Wheel
Speed Sensor > Component Information > Locations > Component Locations
Front
1. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). 2. Release the clamp (A), then disconnect the wheel speed
sensor connector (B).
3. Remove the clips, the bolt, and the wheel speed sensor (C). 4. Install the wheel speed sensor in
the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
^ If the wheel speed sensor comes in contact with the wheel bearing, it is faulty.
5. Start the engine, and check that the ABS and the VSA indicators go off. 6. Test-drive the vehicle,
and check that the ABS and the VSA indicators do not come on.
Rear
1. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). 2. Release the clamp (A), then disconnect the wheel speed
sensor connector (B).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Sensors and Switches - Brakes and Traction Control > Wheel
Speed Sensor > Component Information > Locations > Page 5333
3. Remove the clips, the bolt, and the wheel speed sensor (C). 4. Install the wheel speed sensor in
the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
^ If the wheel speed sensor comes in contact with the hub bearing unit, it is faulty.
5. Start the engine, and check that the ABS and the VSA indicators go off. 6. Test-drive the vehicle,
and check that the ABS and the VSA indicators do not come on.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Sensors and Switches - Brakes and Traction Control > Yaw
Rate Sensor > Component Information > Locations
NOTE: Do not damage or drop the sensor as it is sensitive. Do not use power tools.
1. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). 2. Remove the center console. 3. Remove the yaw
rate-lateral acceleration sensor (A) mounting bolts.
4. Pull out the yaw rate-lateral acceleration sensor, then disconnect the sensor connector (B). 5.
Install the sensor in the reverse order of removal. 6. Do the VSA sensor neutral position
memorization.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Clutch Switch >
Component Information > Locations
M/T
1. Disconnect the clutch interlock switch 2P connector
2. Remove the clutch interlock switch (B). 3. Check for continuity between the terminals according
to the table.
- If OK, install the clutch interlock switch, and adjust the pedal height.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Clutch Switch >
Component Information > Locations > Page 5346
Clutch Pedal, Clutch Pedal Position Switch, and Clutch Interlock Switch Adjustment
NOTE: ^
^ If there is no clearance between the master cylinder piston and pushrod, the release bearing will
be held against the diaphragm spring, which can result in clutch slippage or other clutch problems.
1. Lift up the carpet (A). At the insulator cutout, measure the pedal height from the right side of the
pedal pad (B).
2. Loosen the clutch pedal position switch locknut (A), and back off the clutch pedal position switch
(B) until it no longer touches the clutch pedal
(C).
3. Loosen the clutch pushrod locknut (D), and turn the pushrod (E) in or out to get the specified
height (F), stroke (G), free play (H), and
F Clutch Pedal Height: 157 mm (6.18 in.) G Clutch Pedal Stroke: 130 - 140 mm (5.12 - 5.51 in.) H
Clutch Pedal Free Play: 10 - 18 mm (0.39 - 0.71 in.) Clutch Pedal Disengagement Height: 77 mm
(3.03 in.)
4. Tighten the clutch pushrod locknut. 5. With the clutch pedal released, turn in the clutch pedal
position switch until it contacts the clutch pedal. 6. Turn in the clutch pedal position switch an
additional 3/4 to 1 turn. 7. Tighten the clutch pedal position switch locknut. 8. Loosen the clutch
interlock switch locknut (J). 9. Press the clutch pedal to the floor.
10. Release the clutch pedal 9 - 12 mm (0.35 - 0.47 in.) from the fully pressed position, and hold it
there. Adjust the position of the clutch interlock
switch (K) so the engine will start with the clutch pedal in this position.
11. Tighten the clutch interlock switch locknut. 12. Check the clutch operation.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Ignition Switch >
Component Information > Locations
Ignition Switch: Locations
Circuit Schematics
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Ignition Switch >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5354
Circuit Schematics
Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show
current flow, from power at the top of the diagram, to ground at the bottom.
Shared Circuits
Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that
connects one circuit to another, for example, is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it
pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or
component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring, check the operation of a
component it serves. If that component works, you know the shared wiring is OK.
Connectors
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Ignition Switch >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5355
All in-line and junction connectors are numbered (C725, C416, etc.). Component connectors are
not numbered but are identified either by the name of the component if the component only has
one connector, or by a capital letter (A, B, C, etc.) if the component has more than one connector.
Below most connector numbers and component names are PHOTO and VIEW numbers. The
PHOTO number refers to a photo at Vehicle Level Locations that shows the connector's location on
the car. The VIEW number refers to an connector view at the Vehicle Level Connector Views that
shows the connector terminals, wire colors, connector cavity numbers, and other details.
The connector cavity numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector as seen
from either of the viewpoints. Except for the DLC (data link connector), disregard any numbers
molded into the connector housing.
Wires
Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the
stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number "2" next to the male
and female wire terminals at C554, for example, means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector
C554.
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the vehicle. Refer to the Power Distribution Diagram Set to get a more detailed
understanding of how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on. Individual circuit
schematics begin with a fuse. So if Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another
circuit share a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good
and power is available to the inoperative circuit.
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share the same
ground point.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Ignition Switch >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5357
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Ignition Switch >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5358
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Ignition Switch >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5359
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Ignition Switch >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5360
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Ignition Switch >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5361
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Ignition Switch >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5362
How to Identify Connector Terminals
Connector terminals are numbered according to the cavities they are in. The cavities are numbered
starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side or looking at the
female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the
same. All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not
the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the
connector face.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Ignition Switch >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5363
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown above is #6.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Ignition Switch >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5364
The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice
connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for
all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement
terminal availability.
On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged,
replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If
any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it.
Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the
wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the
terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to
make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a
factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS.
Use the tools from Pin Tool Set. First, check the connector that you are about to repair.
- If it has a secondary terminal lock, go to Connectors With a Secondary Lock. A secondary lock,
found on most connectors on some models, is an additional locking device on the connector
housing as a backup for the primary lock on the terminal.
- If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock.
All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the
secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the
connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities.
EXAMPLE A:
EXAMPLE B:
EXAMPLE C:
EXAMPLE D:
2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW
TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE E:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Ignition Switch >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5368
1. Remove the secondary locks.
2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW
TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE F:
3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of
connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary
in size and shape.
EXAMPLE A:
EXAMPLE B:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Ignition Switch >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5370
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE C:
EXAMPLE D:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Ignition Switch >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5371
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE E:
EXAMPLE F:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Ignition Switch >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5372
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE G:
1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct
replacement terminal based on the wire size range
NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part
number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available
through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures.
2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Ignition Switch >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5373
3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the
wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from
the kit.)
NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did,
cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again.
4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the
anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown
in step 3.
6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact.
- If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool
over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the
stops make contact.
- If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully
squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Ignition Switch >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5374
8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the following NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and
start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the
way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure
10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector.
Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too
short or when access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair.
On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged,
replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If
any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it.
1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from
Pin Tool Set.
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2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal,
then strip about half of the insulation off that piece.
This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal.
NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will
not nick or cut off any strands of wires.
3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and
same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit
onto the stripped end of the original wire.
5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the
pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more
than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at
the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the
harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make
each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail.
7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends
of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue
NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the
stripper.
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8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the
flare begins), and close the crimper handles far
enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click,
squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open.
9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the
wire all the way into the splice connector, and
squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until
the ratchet clicks again.
10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After
crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the
connector.
12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire(s), and shield them with
nonflammable material.
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13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the
gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat
evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete
when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube.
NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun.
Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the
wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size)
splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select
the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in
quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures.
Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the
Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching
connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body.
1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector.
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5378
2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool.
NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal
because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit.
3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal
with a replacement terminal from the appropriate
Five-Step Troubleshooting
Five-Step Troubleshooting
Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint.
Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
problem area.
Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by
tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground (certain
circuits contain a "How the Circuit Works" Diagram set). Also, trace circuits that share wiring with
the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on,
are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step
1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used
only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely
cause.
Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more
possible causes.
Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple
procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to
make tests at points that are easily accessible.
Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe
procedures.
Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire
problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure
no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur.
Test Equipment
Test Equipment
CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
1O-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up
of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to
various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is
voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital
volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is
between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM).
In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low
resistance means good continuity.
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Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a
reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is
affecting the measurement.
To order any test equipment shown, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool
numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin.
Jumper Wire
Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder
connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire
across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse.
To order any test equipment shown, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool
numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin.
Troubleshooting Precautions
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION: -
Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
- Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles.
2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part
Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place.
CAUTION: -
Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
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- Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-mega
ohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that
contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
Troubleshooting Tests
Troubleshooting Tests
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt
ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest
"OHMS" range.
2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you
want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end.
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4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or
no reading (zero), means good continuity.
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem. Circuits must be operating when checking
voltage drop.
1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts
range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage
is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM
voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
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Ignition Switch: Connector Views
Test
SRS components are located in the area. Review the SRS component locations and precautions
and procedures before performing repairs or servicing.
1. Make sure you have the anti-theft code for the audio system or the navigation system (if
equipped), then write down the audio presets. Make sure
2. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 3. Remove the driver's dashboard lower cover, and the
steering column covers. 4. Disconnect the 7P connector (A) from the ignition switch (B).
5. Check for continuity between the terminals in each switch position according to the table.
6. If the continuity checks do not agree with the table, replace the ignition switch. 7. After
reconnecting the battery, enter the anti-theft code for the audio system or the navigation system (if
equipped), then enter the audio presets.
Replacement
SRS components are located in the area. Review the SRS component locations and precautions
and procedures before performing repairs or servicing.
1. Make sure you have the anti-theft code for the audio system or the navigation system (if
equipped), then write down the audio presets. Make sure
2. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 3. Remove the driver's dashboard lower cover, and the
steering column covers. 4. Disconnect the 7P connector (A) from the ignition switch (B).
5. Remove the two screws and the ignition switch. 6. Install in the reverse order of removal. 7. After
reconnecting the battery, enter the anti-theft code for the audio system or the navigation system (if
equipped), then enter the audio presets.
171. Shift Lock Solenoid Cut Relay And Start Relay (Honda Accessory: Canada A/T)
267. Fuel Shut-off Solenoid Valve Relay (GX) And Starter Control Relay (GX)
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Starter Relay: Testing and Inspection
Use this chart to identify the type of relay, then do the test listed for it.
Normally-open type
- There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when battery positive terminal
is connected to the No. 4 terminal, and battery negative terminal is connected to the No. 3 terminal.
- There should be no continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power is
disconnected.
Five-terminal type
- There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when battery positive terminal
is connected to the No. 5 terminal, and battery negative terminal is connected to the No. 3 terminal.
- There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 4 terminals when power is disconnected.
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Component Information > Locations > Page 5396
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Battery > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Electrical - GR8 Battery Diagnostic Station Update Info.
Battery: Technical Service Bulletins Electrical - GR8 Battery Diagnostic Station Update Info.
09-060
(Supersedes 09-060, dated January 19, 2010, to revise the information marked by the asterisks)
REVISION SUMMARY
INTRODUCTION
The software for the GR8 Battery Diagnostic Station is updated periodically to fix software bugs
and enhance the tool's function. You can now use the Midtronics GR8 update wizard to download
software and firmware to your GR8 using a PC and the Internet. It is extremely important to use the
latest GR8 software to ensure that the current battery testing and diagnostic procedures are used.
Honda introduced a new policy to ensure that GR8 testers are updated promptly. The GR8
software must now be updated within 3 days of receiving notification from an iN message or other
Honda communication. If an out-of-date version is used, any battery replacements may not be
covered under warranty.
^ USB-to-mini-USB cable (this cable came with the GR8): Midtronics P/N A128
^ Internet access
To order the GR8 Diagnostic Station, or the USB-to-mini-USB cable, go to the Honda Tool and
Equipment catalog on the iN (select Service > Service Bay > Tool and Equipment > Online
Catalog), or call.
SOFTWARE INFORMATION
The current software version is listed online. Go to the iN (select Service > Service Bay >
Diagnostic Tools Software Versions).
The update should take 5-10 minutes. Make sure that the update is not interrupted. If the update is
interrupted, it could damage the GR8 and require you to send the GR8 to Midtronics for repair. This
repair is not covered by warranty.
1. Make sure the GR8 is off and the SD card is removed.
2. Online, go to www.midtronics.com/home/clientlogin/clientlogin.aspx:
3. Enter your username and password, then click the Login button.
Username: hondagr8
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Password: hondagr8
4. You should see an image of the GR8 tester. Click on the highlighted Update Software link under
the image.
5. Fill in your dealer number, the service manager's name, and the GR8 serial number(s). The
dealer name, the dealer address, and the dealer phone
6. You should see the image of the GR8 tester again. Click on the highlighted Honda GR8
Software Update link.
NOTE:
Depending on your network setup, you may see more warning screens than are shown here.
*9. The Midtronics Update Wizard appears. Refer to SOFTWARE INFORMATION to find the
current software version.*
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* NOTE:
If the wrong software file appears or is not shown, click Change MUP File, and select the correct
software version.*
10. Turn on the GR8, and follow the Update Wizard on-screen instructions.
11. When the update is complete, the Update Results screen appears, indicating the update was
successful. Click Finish to close the Update Wizard.
12. Turn the GR8 off for 10 seconds. Reinstall the SD card, then turn the GR8 on, and confirm that
the software is updated to the software version
13. If an error message appears anytime during the update, follow the on-screen instructions, and
try updating the GR8 again. If the error message still
does not go away, or if you have any problems updating the GR8, call Midtronics.
14. If you have more than one GR8, repeat the update procedure for each unit.
15. Once all GR8s are updated, store the USB-to-mini-USB cable in a safe location for future
updates.
Disclaimer
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Battery: Technical Service Bulletins Electrical - ED-18 Battery Analyzer Update Info.
09-045
(Supersedes 09-027, dated June 30, 2009, to revise the information marked by the asterisks)
*REVISION SUMMARY
Under SOFTWARE VERSION, the method to check the current software was updated.*
INTRODUCTION
The software for the ED-18 Battery Analyzer (or tester) is updated periodically to fix software bugs
and enhance the tool's function. To help you update the ED-18 tester more quickly, American
Honda no longer distributes CDs for the tester. You can now use the Midtronics ED-18 update
wizard to download software and firmware to your ED-18 tester using a PC and the Internet. It is
extremely important to use the latest ED-18 software to ensure that the current battery testing
procedures are used.
Honda introduced a new policy to ensure that ED-18 testers are updated promptly. The ED-18
software must now be updated within 3 days of receiving notification from an iN message or other
Honda communication. If an out-of-date version is used, any battery replacements may not be
covered under warranty.
^ ED-18 Battery Analyzer: ED-18 Version 1: P/N INBED18LLH ED-18 Version 2: P/N INB17191840
^ 7/64" hex wrench: P/N INBi7191270* *Both the R5232 interface cable and the hex wrench were
included with the ED-18 update that was shipped to dealerships in November 2008.
^ Internet access
^ An IBM-compatible PC:
- CD ROM
- R5232 (9 pin) serial port, or an R5232 to USB Adapter (P/N MTRA164) (Some newer computers
do not have an R5232 port. You will need to order the R5232 to USB adapter to update your ED-18
testers.)
To order the ED-18 Battery Analyzer version 2, the interface cable, the R5232 to USB adapter, or
the hex wrench, go to the Honda Tool and Equipment catalog on the iN (select Service > Service
Bay > Tool and Equipment > Online Catalog), or call.
NOTE:
*The current software version is listed online. Go to the iN (select Service > Service Bay >
Diagnostic Tools Software Versions).*
Info > Version. The version number is located near the top of the version screen.
To check the ED-18 version 2 software:
^ Turn on the tester, and read the version number on the screen. It should appear for about 3
seconds.
^ Or, you can click on: Language > Options > Info > Version. The version number is located near
the top of the version screen.
1. Make sure the ED-18 is off, then detach the printer by using the hex wrench to remove the two
screws at the bottom of the printer. Pull the printer
straight out from the ED-18 to avoid damaging the connector terminals.
2. Connect the R8232 interface cable to the ED-18 where the printer was connected, then connect
the interface cable to your PC.
NOTE:
If your computer doesn't have an R8232 serial port, use the R8232 to USB adapter.
4. Online, go to
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5. Enter your username and password, then click the Login button.
NOTE:
7. Fill in your dealer number, the service manager's name, and the ED-18 serial number(s). The
dealer name, the dealer address, and the dealer phone
8. You should see the image of your ED-18 tester again. Click on the highlighted Honda ED-18 V2
Software Update link.
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10. A file will be downloaded to your computer. After it is finished, an Internet Explorer - Security
Warning screen appears. Select Run.
NOTE:
Depending on your network setup, you may see more warning screens than are shown here.
12. Before using the Midtronics update utility, make sure your computer port settings are correct.
Click on: My Computer > Control Panel > System >
If you are using an RS232 to USB adapter, make sure to plug it in before checking the port
settings.
Expand Ports, and check the communications port number. The communications port number
should match the COMM number in the Midtronics update utility. If the numbers do not match, click
on the arrows next to the COMM windows in the Midtronics update utility, and change the number
to match the computer system's port number.
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Make sure this communications port number matches the COMM number on the update. If it does
not, change the number on the update.
13. Click on Start to begin the update, which takes about a minute. A progress bar appears. Wait
until you get a message indicating the update was
successful.
NOTE:
^ If the clamps come off the battery, or the R8232 interface cable comes loose, turn the ED-18 off,
then back on. When the logon screen appears on the ED-18, click on Start to restart the update.
^ If the error message Flash not erased appears, replace the AA batteries in the ED-18, and try the
update again.
15. Click on Quit on the ED-18 update. Make sure the message UPDATE COMPLETE appears on
the ED-18 tester.
17. Confirm that the software on the ED-18 tester is updated to the software version listed under
SOFTWARE VERSION.
NOTE:
If you have any problems updating the ED-18, call Midtronics at 866-592-8054.
19. If you have more than one ED-18, repeat the update procedure for each unit.
20. Once all ED-18s are updated, store the R5232 interface cable and the hex wrench in a safe
location for future updates.
Disclaimer
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Electrical - GR8 Battery Diagnostic Station Update Info. > Page 5410
Battery: Technical Service Bulletins Electrical - Battery Testing and Replacement Information
88-023
(Supersedes 88-023, dated September 12, 2009, to revise the information marked by the black
bars and asterisks)
REVISION SUMMARY
*^ Under WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION, battery claim Error Codes were added to some
Warranty Requirements
^ The 2005 Model Year and Later battery coverage section was changed to 2005-10 Model Year
Vehicles.*
BACKGROUND
Maintaining batteries in vehicles is an important part of ensuring a battery's operating life. American
Honda recommends using the ED-18 and GR8 to check and maintain batteries. Refer to this
bulletin for:
REQUIRED TOOLS
^ ED-18 Battery Analyzer (Version 1 or 2): ED-18 Version 1: P/N INBEDi8LLH ED-18 Version 2:
P/N INB17191840
NOTE:
Tool Requirements
The GR8 and ED-18 software must be updated within 3 days of a new software update release.
Refer to the applicable service bulletins for more information:
Warranty Requirements
The 10-digit test code must be included on a battery replacement claim. Refer to WARRANTY
CLAIM INFORMATION.
ORDERING INFORMATION
To order the GR8 Battery Diagnostic Station or the ED-18-2 Battery Analyzer, go to the Honda Tool
and Equipment catalog on the iN (select Service > Service Bay > Tool and Equipment Program >
Online Catalog), or call.
NOTE:
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For more information about documenting the scheduled battery checks, refer to Service Bulletin
89-003, Battery Maintenance at Dealers.
NOTE:
Keep a printout of every battery test. Your warranty claim may be rejected unless you show that the
battery was properly maintained.
^ Properly charge and diagnose the battery when indicated by the ED-18
^ Power supply mode maintains proper voltage during extended vehicle service, such as updating
the PCM
^ Check the condition of the battery and its state-of-charge when a vehicle comes in for scheduled
maintenance.
^ Properly charge and diagnose the battery when indicated by the ED-18
^ Power supply mode maintains proper voltage during extended vehicle service, such as updating
the PCM
^ When the ED-18 or GR8 displays Replace Battery or Bad Cell Replace, it provides a 10-digit
code that must be included with the warranty
^ Properly charge and diagnose the battery when indicated by the ED-18
^ Power supply mode maintains proper voltage during extended vehicle service, such as updating
the PCM
NOTE:
^ For set up, customizing, and other available features, refer to the ED-18 user's manual.
^ Make sure the setup has been completed, and the ED-18 updated to the most current software.
The date and software version is very important for the proper result. Your warranty claim may not
be paid if this information is wrong. See Tool Requirements under REQUIRED TOOLS for more
information.
4. Select your TECHNICIAN ID, then press Enter. After the summary of your technician ID
appears, press Enter again.
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5. Use the arrow or number keys to select the location of the battery, either OUT OF VEHICLE or
IN VEHICLE, then press Enter.
6. Use the arrow or number keys to select FLOODED, then press Enter.
NOTE: All Honda original equipment and replacement batteries are flooded types. If you select
another battery type, your claim will not be covered by Honda's warranty.
7. Use the arrow or number keys to select the battery CCA value, then press Enter. You can find
the CCA on the battery label on the top of the battery.
If the battery hold-down plate is covering the label, loosen the plate and shift it out of the way to
read the CCA.
NOTE:
Enter the correct cold cranking amps. If you enter the wrong number, the ED-18 analyzer result
may be wrong, and the warranty claim may be rejected.
8. Measure the battery temperature by placing the analyzer's IR temperature sensor within 1 to 2
inches of the top or side of the battery. (The arrow on
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the top of the analyzer's housing indicates the sensor's location.) When the measured temperature
on the display stabilizes, press Enter.
9. The analyzer displays the battery's current condition under RESULTS. The screen below shows
one of four possible battery conditions, the battery's
measured voltage, and the CCA. The screen includes a curved, two-section bar graph that
represents the battery's condition.
^ Good Battery - This battery has at least 70% of its charge, 85% of its capacity, and requires no
action.
^ GR8 Diagnostic Needed - The battery voltage is below 60% of its state of charge (SOC), and the
condition of the battery is unknown. Use the GR8 to charge the battery and properly diagnose it.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Battery > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Electrical - GR8 Battery Diagnostic Station Update Info. > Page 5415
^ Replace Battery - The battery condition is poor. Replace it.
^ Bad Cell Replace - There is an internal problem with the battery. Replace it.
11. The screens toggle back and forth until you turn off the analyzer. To print the test results, press
BACK. To return to the main menu, press CLEAR.
NOTE:
^ If you need to submit a warranty claim, enter the 10-digit test code into the first two Diagnostic
Trouble Code fields on the warranty claim.
^ If you enter the wrong CCA, or do not use the most current software version, your claim may be
rejected.
^ The test results must state Replace Battery or Bad Cell Replace for a warranty battery
replacement claim to be approved.
NOTE:
^ Use the GR8 diagnostic mode when the ED-18 indicates GR8 DIAGNOSTIC NEEDED.
^ For set up, customizing, and other available features, refer to the GR8 instruction manual;
besides the one that comes with the GR8, the GR8 instruction manual is also available online.
Select GENERAL PUBLICATIONS, select Tool Information, then select GR8-1100P Battery
Diagnostic Station Instruction Manual from the list.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Battery > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Electrical - GR8 Battery Diagnostic Station Update Info. > Page 5416
^ Make sure the setup has been completed, and that the GR8 is updated to the most current
software. The date and software version is very important for the proper result. Your warranty claim
may not be paid if this information is wrong. See Tool Requirements under REQUIRED TOOLS for
more information.
OFFENDING COMMAND: ~
STACK:
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Battery > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Page 5418
Battery: Testing and Inspection
Battery Test
WARNING: A battery can explode if you do not follow the proper procedure, causing serious injury
to anyone nearby. Follow all procedures carefully and keep sparks and open flames away from the
battery.
Use an ED-18 Battery Tester, and follow the manufacturer's procedures. If you don't have one of
these computerized testers, follow this conventional test procedure:
1. Be sure the temperature of the electrolyte is between 70 °F (21 °C) and 100 °F (38 °C). 2.
Inspect the battery case for cracks or leaks.
4. Apply a 300 amp load for 15 seconds to remove the surface charge. 5. Wait 15 seconds, then
apply a test load of 280 amps for 15 seconds.
7. Charge the battery on High (40 amps) until the test indicator window shows the battery is
charged, plus an additional 30 minutes. If the battery
charge is very low, it may be necessary to bypass the charger's polarity protection circuitry. -
If the test indicator window indicates the battery is charged within three hours, repeat steps 4
through 6. If the battery is still below 9.6 V, replace the battery.
- If the test indicator window indicates the battery is not charged within three hours, replace the
battery.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Charging System > Alternator > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Charging System - Revised Alternator Testing
Alternator: Technical Service Bulletins Charging System - Revised Alternator Testing
10-054
September 8, 2010
BACKGROUND
American Honda is currently developing new equipment and procedures for testing alternators and
starters. Until this equipment is released, please use the following information.
Do not use the ED-18 for testing alternators because it will misjudge the charging system
performance on some models, leading to the unnecessary replacement of good parts. To properly
test alternators, use one of the following tools:
^ OTC Tester - Includes the following testers: 0TC3130, OTC3130AGM, 0TC3131, and 0TC3131
AGM
^ ARBST
^ VAT40
If you do not have one of these tools, the OTC tester is available through the special tool loan
program. For more information about the loan program, refer to S/B 98-051, Special Tool Loan
Program.
Honda vehicles use an electronic load detection (ELD) circuit in the charging system to reduce fuel
consumption. The alternator has two modes; low output and high output. When the vehicle is
cruising and there is a light electrical load, the alternator switches to the low output mode that
produces about
12.5 V and low amperage. When the vehicle load increases (the customer turns on the headlights,
the seat heaters, the rear defroster, etc.), the alternator switches to the high output mode that
raises the voltage and amperage.
ALTERNATOR TEST
For more information on the OTC tester, refer to its user guide. Besides the one that came with the
tool, you can also find the guide online under General Publications, Tool Information.
1. Question the customer about the events that led up to the problem. Many charging system
complaints are caused by leaving the headlights or interior
lights on, headlight flicker, or installing aftermarket accessories with a high parasitic draw that
drains the battery.
2. Visually inspect the battery cables and grounding straps to confirm the connections are clean
and tight. If there are any damaged parts or loose
3. Test the vehicle battery with the GR-8. Refer to S/B 88-023, Battery Testing and Replacement.
^ Connect the positive (+) heavy load lead to the positive battery terminal.
5. Calibrate the OTC tester by holding the amp probe away from any conductors, and pressing the
ZERO AMPS button.
6. Connect the amp probe to the vehicle's negative battery cable. Make sure the arrow on the
probe points toward the vehicle's battery.
NOTE:
If the vehicle has a second battery negative cable, make sure the probe is around that as well.
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Service Bulletins > Charging System - Revised Alternator Testing > Page 5424
8. Start the engine, set the parking brake to turn off the DRL (daytime running lights), and turn off
all other electrical accessories.
10. Raise and hold the engine speed at 2,000 rpm until RUN AT IDLE appears on the display.
NOTE:
Stand back from the battery, and do not place any objects on top of the OTC tester; it gets hot
during testing.
11. Let the engine idle until TEST COMPLETE appears on the display.
12. Press CONTINUE to see the results, and write them down. The first screen lists the
REGULATOR VOLTS. Press CONTINUE again to list the
PEAK AMPS.
13. Refer to the AMPERAGE LOAD SPECIFICATIONS table, and compare the vehicle results
against the listed amperage value.
Is the vehicle amperage (PEAK AMPS) equal to or greater than the value listed in the AMPERAGE
table?
^ If it's between 13.5 and 15.1 V, the alternator is OK. Continue with normal troubleshooting.
^ If it's not between 13.5 and 15.1 V, replace the alternator, and retest.
NOTE:
The amperage values listed below are used for testing purposes and represent 75% of the
alternator's maximum output.
Disclaimer
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Charging System > Alternator > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Page 5425
Alternator: Specifications
Alternator
Output
Circuit Schematics
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Charging System > Alternator > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5428
Circuit Schematics
Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show
current flow, from power at the top of the diagram, to ground at the bottom.
Shared Circuits
Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that
connects one circuit to another, for example, is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it
pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or
component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring, check the operation of a
component it serves. If that component works, you know the shared wiring is OK.
Connectors
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Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5429
All in-line and junction connectors are numbered (C725, C416, etc.). Component connectors are
not numbered but are identified either by the name of the component if the component only has
one connector, or by a capital letter (A, B, C, etc.) if the component has more than one connector.
Below most connector numbers and component names are PHOTO and VIEW numbers. The
PHOTO number refers to a photo at Vehicle Level Locations that shows the connector's location on
the car. The VIEW number refers to an connector view at the Vehicle Level Connector Views that
shows the connector terminals, wire colors, connector cavity numbers, and other details.
The connector cavity numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector as seen
from either of the viewpoints. Except for the DLC (data link connector), disregard any numbers
molded into the connector housing.
Wires
Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the
stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number "2" next to the male
and female wire terminals at C554, for example, means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector
C554.
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the vehicle. Refer to the Power Distribution Diagram Set to get a more detailed
understanding of how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on. Individual circuit
schematics begin with a fuse. So if Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another
circuit share a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good
and power is available to the inoperative circuit.
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share the same
ground point.
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Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5431
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Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5432
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Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5433
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Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5434
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Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5435
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Charging System > Alternator > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5436
How to Identify Connector Terminals
Connector terminals are numbered according to the cavities they are in. The cavities are numbered
starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side or looking at the
female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the
same. All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not
the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the
connector face.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Charging System > Alternator > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5437
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown above is #6.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Charging System > Alternator > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5438
The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice
connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for
all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement
terminal availability.
On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged,
replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If
any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it.
Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the
wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the
terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to
make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a
factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS.
Use the tools from Pin Tool Set. First, check the connector that you are about to repair.
- If it has a secondary terminal lock, go to Connectors With a Secondary Lock. A secondary lock,
found on most connectors on some models, is an additional locking device on the connector
housing as a backup for the primary lock on the terminal.
- If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock.
All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the
secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the
connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities.
EXAMPLE A:
EXAMPLE B:
EXAMPLE C:
EXAMPLE D:
2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW
TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE E:
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Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5442
1. Remove the secondary locks.
2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW
TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE F:
3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of
connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary
in size and shape.
EXAMPLE A:
EXAMPLE B:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Charging System > Alternator > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5444
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE C:
EXAMPLE D:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Charging System > Alternator > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5445
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE E:
EXAMPLE F:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Charging System > Alternator > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5446
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE G:
1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct
replacement terminal based on the wire size range
NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part
number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available
through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures.
2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
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Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5447
3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the
wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from
the kit.)
NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did,
cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again.
4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the
anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown
in step 3.
6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact.
- If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool
over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the
stops make contact.
- If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully
squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Charging System > Alternator > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5448
8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the following NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and
start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the
way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure
10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector.
Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too
short or when access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair.
On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged,
replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If
any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it.
1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from
Pin Tool Set.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
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Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5449
2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal,
then strip about half of the insulation off that piece.
This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal.
NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will
not nick or cut off any strands of wires.
3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and
same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit
onto the stripped end of the original wire.
5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the
pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more
than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at
the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the
harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make
each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail.
7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends
of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue
NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the
stripper.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Charging System > Alternator > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5450
8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the
flare begins), and close the crimper handles far
enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click,
squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open.
9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the
wire all the way into the splice connector, and
squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until
the ratchet clicks again.
10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After
crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the
connector.
12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire(s), and shield them with
nonflammable material.
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Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5451
13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the
gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat
evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete
when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube.
NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun.
Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the
wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size)
splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select
the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in
quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures.
Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the
Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching
connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body.
1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
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Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5452
2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool.
NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal
because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit.
3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal
with a replacement terminal from the appropriate
Five-Step Troubleshooting
Five-Step Troubleshooting
Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint.
Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
problem area.
Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by
tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground (certain
circuits contain a "How the Circuit Works" Diagram set). Also, trace circuits that share wiring with
the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on,
are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step
1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used
only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely
cause.
Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more
possible causes.
Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple
procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to
make tests at points that are easily accessible.
Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe
procedures.
Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire
problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure
no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur.
Test Equipment
Test Equipment
CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
1O-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up
of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to
various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is
voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital
volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is
between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM).
In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low
resistance means good continuity.
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Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5453
Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a
reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is
affecting the measurement.
To order any test equipment shown, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool
numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin.
Jumper Wire
Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder
connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire
across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse.
To order any test equipment shown, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool
numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin.
Troubleshooting Precautions
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION: -
Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
- Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles.
2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part
Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place.
CAUTION: -
Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
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Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5454
- Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-mega
ohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that
contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
Troubleshooting Tests
Troubleshooting Tests
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt
ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest
"OHMS" range.
2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you
want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end.
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Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5455
4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or
no reading (zero), means good continuity.
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem. Circuits must be operating when checking
voltage drop.
1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts
range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage
is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM
voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Charging System > Alternator > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5456
144. Alternator
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Charging System > Alternator > Component Information > Diagrams >
Page 5457
Alternator: Description and Operation
Alternator Control
September 8, 2010
BACKGROUND
American Honda is currently developing new equipment and procedures for testing alternators and
starters. Until this equipment is released, please use the following information.
Do not use the ED-18 for testing alternators because it will misjudge the charging system
performance on some models, leading to the unnecessary replacement of good parts. To properly
test alternators, use one of the following tools:
^ OTC Tester - Includes the following testers: 0TC3130, OTC3130AGM, 0TC3131, and 0TC3131
AGM
^ ARBST
^ VAT40
If you do not have one of these tools, the OTC tester is available through the special tool loan
program. For more information about the loan program, refer to S/B 98-051, Special Tool Loan
Program.
Honda vehicles use an electronic load detection (ELD) circuit in the charging system to reduce fuel
consumption. The alternator has two modes; low output and high output. When the vehicle is
cruising and there is a light electrical load, the alternator switches to the low output mode that
produces about
12.5 V and low amperage. When the vehicle load increases (the customer turns on the headlights,
the seat heaters, the rear defroster, etc.), the alternator switches to the high output mode that
raises the voltage and amperage.
ALTERNATOR TEST
For more information on the OTC tester, refer to its user guide. Besides the one that came with the
tool, you can also find the guide online under General Publications, Tool Information.
1. Question the customer about the events that led up to the problem. Many charging system
complaints are caused by leaving the headlights or interior
lights on, headlight flicker, or installing aftermarket accessories with a high parasitic draw that
drains the battery.
2. Visually inspect the battery cables and grounding straps to confirm the connections are clean
and tight. If there are any damaged parts or loose
3. Test the vehicle battery with the GR-8. Refer to S/B 88-023, Battery Testing and Replacement.
^ Connect the positive (+) heavy load lead to the positive battery terminal.
5. Calibrate the OTC tester by holding the amp probe away from any conductors, and pressing the
ZERO AMPS button.
6. Connect the amp probe to the vehicle's negative battery cable. Make sure the arrow on the
probe points toward the vehicle's battery.
NOTE:
If the vehicle has a second battery negative cable, make sure the probe is around that as well.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Charging System > Alternator > Component Information > Diagrams >
Page 5459
8. Start the engine, set the parking brake to turn off the DRL (daytime running lights), and turn off
all other electrical accessories.
10. Raise and hold the engine speed at 2,000 rpm until RUN AT IDLE appears on the display.
NOTE:
Stand back from the battery, and do not place any objects on top of the OTC tester; it gets hot
during testing.
11. Let the engine idle until TEST COMPLETE appears on the display.
12. Press CONTINUE to see the results, and write them down. The first screen lists the
REGULATOR VOLTS. Press CONTINUE again to list the
PEAK AMPS.
13. Refer to the AMPERAGE LOAD SPECIFICATIONS table, and compare the vehicle results
against the listed amperage value.
Is the vehicle amperage (PEAK AMPS) equal to or greater than the value listed in the AMPERAGE
table?
14. Check the regulator voltage you wrote down in step 12.
^ If it's between 13.5 and 15.1 V, the alternator is OK. Continue with normal troubleshooting.
^ If it's not between 13.5 and 15.1 V, replace the alternator, and retest.
NOTE:
The amperage values listed below are used for testing purposes and represent 75% of the
alternator's maximum output.
Disclaimer
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Charging System > Alternator > Component Information > Service
and Repair > Removal and Replacement
Alternator: Removal and Replacement
Removal
1. Make sure you have the anti-theft code for the audio system or the navigation system (if
equipped), then write down the audio presets. 2. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery. 3.
Remove the drive belt. 4. Disconnect the alternator connector (A) and BLK wire (B) from the
alternator.
5. Remove the harness connector (C) and harness clamps (D) from the alternator. 6. Remove the
alternator.
Installation
3. Install the harness connector (C) and harness clamp (D) to the alternator. 4. Install the drive belt.
5. Connect the negative cable to the battery. 6. Enter the anti-theft code for the audio system or the
navigation system (if equipped), then enter the audio presets. 7. Set the clock (on vehicles without
navigation).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
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and Repair > Removal and Replacement > Page 5463
Alternator: Overhaul
Alternator Overhaul
Special Tools Required
- Attachment, 42 x 47 mm 07746-0010300
Alternator Disassembly
1. Test the alternator and regulator before you remove them. 2. Remove the alternator. 3. Remove
the heat shield (A) and harness brackets (B).
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and Repair > Removal and Replacement > Page 5464
4. Remove the terminal insulator.
6. Heat the rear bearing seat with a heat gun for about 5 minutes (122-140 °F (50-60 °C)).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
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and Repair > Removal and Replacement > Page 5465
7. Separate the rear housing from the drive end housing by inserting a flat-tip screwdriver into the
openings and prying them apart.
NOTE: Be careful not to damage the stator with the tip of the screwdriver.
8. Separate the rear housing (A) and drive end housing (B) with the stator (C) attached to the rear
housing.
9. If you are not replacing the front bearing and/or rear bearing, go to step 17. Clamp the rotor in a
soft-jawed vise, then remove the pulley locknut.
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and Repair > Removal and Replacement > Page 5466
10. Remove the rotor using a puller as shown.
11. Inspect the rotor shaft for scoring, and inspect the bearing journal surface in the drive end
housing for seizure marks.
- If either the rotor or drive end housing is damaged, replace the alternator.
- If both the rotor and the drive end housing are OK, go to step 12.
13. Use a hand press to install the new rear bearing. Apply pressure only on the inner race to avoid
damaging the bearing.
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and Repair > Removal and Replacement > Page 5467
14. Remove the front bearing retainer plate.
15. Support the drive end housing in a vise, and drive out the front bearing with a brass drift and a
hammer.
16. Install a new front bearing in the drive end housing with a hammer, the handle driver, and
attachment.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Charging System > Alternator > Component Information > Service
and Repair > Removal and Replacement > Page 5468
Alternator Brush Inspection
- If either brush is shorter than the service limit, replace the rear housing assembly.
19. Check for no continuity between each slip ring (A) and the rotor (B) and the rotor shaft (C).
- If there is no continuity, replace the rear housing assembly, and go to step 20.
Alternator Reassembly
20. If you removed the pulley, put the rotor in the drive end housing, then tighten its locknut to 111
N.m (11.3 kgf-m, 81.7 lbf-ft). 21. Remove any grease or oil from the slip rings. 22. Push the
brushes (A) in, then insert a pin or drill bit (B) (about 1.8 mm (0.77 in.) diameter) to hold them there.
23. Heat the rear bearing seat with a heat gun for about 5 minutes (122-140 °F (50-60 °C)). 24. Put
the rear housing assembly (A) and drive end housing/rotor assembly (B) together, tighten the four
through bolts (C), and pull out the pin (D).
25. After assembling the alternator, turn the pulley by hand to make sure the rotor turns smoothly
and without noise. 26. Install the alternator and drive belt.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Starting System > Clutch Switch > Component Information >
Locations
M/T
1. Disconnect the clutch interlock switch 2P connector
2. Remove the clutch interlock switch (B). 3. Check for continuity between the terminals according
to the table.
- If OK, install the clutch interlock switch, and adjust the pedal height.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Starting System > Clutch Switch > Component Information >
Locations > Page 5477
Clutch Pedal, Clutch Pedal Position Switch, and Clutch Interlock Switch Adjustment
NOTE: ^
^ If there is no clearance between the master cylinder piston and pushrod, the release bearing will
be held against the diaphragm spring, which can result in clutch slippage or other clutch problems.
1. Lift up the carpet (A). At the insulator cutout, measure the pedal height from the right side of the
pedal pad (B).
2. Loosen the clutch pedal position switch locknut (A), and back off the clutch pedal position switch
(B) until it no longer touches the clutch pedal
(C).
3. Loosen the clutch pushrod locknut (D), and turn the pushrod (E) in or out to get the specified
height (F), stroke (G), free play (H), and
F Clutch Pedal Height: 157 mm (6.18 in.) G Clutch Pedal Stroke: 130 - 140 mm (5.12 - 5.51 in.) H
Clutch Pedal Free Play: 10 - 18 mm (0.39 - 0.71 in.) Clutch Pedal Disengagement Height: 77 mm
(3.03 in.)
4. Tighten the clutch pushrod locknut. 5. With the clutch pedal released, turn in the clutch pedal
position switch until it contacts the clutch pedal. 6. Turn in the clutch pedal position switch an
additional 3/4 to 1 turn. 7. Tighten the clutch pedal position switch locknut. 8. Loosen the clutch
interlock switch locknut (J). 9. Press the clutch pedal to the floor.
10. Release the clutch pedal 9 - 12 mm (0.35 - 0.47 in.) from the fully pressed position, and hold it
there. Adjust the position of the clutch interlock
switch (K) so the engine will start with the clutch pedal in this position.
11. Tighten the clutch interlock switch locknut. 12. Check the clutch operation.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Starting System > Ignition Switch > Component Information >
Locations
Ignition Switch: Locations
Circuit Schematics
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Starting System > Ignition Switch > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5485
Circuit Schematics
Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show
current flow, from power at the top of the diagram, to ground at the bottom.
Shared Circuits
Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that
connects one circuit to another, for example, is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it
pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or
component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring, check the operation of a
component it serves. If that component works, you know the shared wiring is OK.
Connectors
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Starting System > Ignition Switch > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5486
All in-line and junction connectors are numbered (C725, C416, etc.). Component connectors are
not numbered but are identified either by the name of the component if the component only has
one connector, or by a capital letter (A, B, C, etc.) if the component has more than one connector.
Below most connector numbers and component names are PHOTO and VIEW numbers. The
PHOTO number refers to a photo at Vehicle Level Locations that shows the connector's location on
the car. The VIEW number refers to an connector view at the Vehicle Level Connector Views that
shows the connector terminals, wire colors, connector cavity numbers, and other details.
The connector cavity numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector as seen
from either of the viewpoints. Except for the DLC (data link connector), disregard any numbers
molded into the connector housing.
Wires
Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the
stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number "2" next to the male
and female wire terminals at C554, for example, means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector
C554.
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the vehicle. Refer to the Power Distribution Diagram Set to get a more detailed
understanding of how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on. Individual circuit
schematics begin with a fuse. So if Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another
circuit share a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good
and power is available to the inoperative circuit.
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share the same
ground point.
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5488
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5489
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5490
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5491
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5492
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Starting System > Ignition Switch > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5493
How to Identify Connector Terminals
Connector terminals are numbered according to the cavities they are in. The cavities are numbered
starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side or looking at the
female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the
same. All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not
the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the
connector face.
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5494
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown above is #6.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Starting System > Ignition Switch > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5495
The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice
connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for
all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement
terminal availability.
On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged,
replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If
any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it.
Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the
wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the
terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to
make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a
factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS.
Use the tools from Pin Tool Set. First, check the connector that you are about to repair.
- If it has a secondary terminal lock, go to Connectors With a Secondary Lock. A secondary lock,
found on most connectors on some models, is an additional locking device on the connector
housing as a backup for the primary lock on the terminal.
- If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock.
All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the
secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the
connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities.
EXAMPLE A:
EXAMPLE B:
EXAMPLE C:
EXAMPLE D:
2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW
TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE E:
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5499
1. Remove the secondary locks.
2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW
TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE F:
3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of
connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary
in size and shape.
EXAMPLE A:
EXAMPLE B:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Starting System > Ignition Switch > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5501
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE C:
EXAMPLE D:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Starting System > Ignition Switch > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5502
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE E:
EXAMPLE F:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Starting System > Ignition Switch > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5503
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE G:
1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct
replacement terminal based on the wire size range
NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part
number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available
through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures.
2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Starting System > Ignition Switch > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5504
3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the
wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from
the kit.)
NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did,
cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again.
4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the
anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown
in step 3.
6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact.
- If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool
over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the
stops make contact.
- If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully
squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape.
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5505
8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the following NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and
start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the
way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure
10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector.
Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too
short or when access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair.
On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged,
replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If
any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it.
1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from
Pin Tool Set.
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5506
2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal,
then strip about half of the insulation off that piece.
This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal.
NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will
not nick or cut off any strands of wires.
3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and
same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit
onto the stripped end of the original wire.
5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the
pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more
than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at
the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the
harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make
each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail.
7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends
of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue
NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the
stripper.
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5507
8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the
flare begins), and close the crimper handles far
enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click,
squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open.
9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the
wire all the way into the splice connector, and
squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until
the ratchet clicks again.
10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After
crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the
connector.
12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire(s), and shield them with
nonflammable material.
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5508
13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the
gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat
evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete
when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube.
NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun.
Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the
wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size)
splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select
the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in
quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures.
Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the
Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching
connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body.
1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector.
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5509
2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool.
NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal
because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit.
3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal
with a replacement terminal from the appropriate
Five-Step Troubleshooting
Five-Step Troubleshooting
Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint.
Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
problem area.
Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by
tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground (certain
circuits contain a "How the Circuit Works" Diagram set). Also, trace circuits that share wiring with
the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on,
are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step
1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used
only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely
cause.
Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more
possible causes.
Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple
procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to
make tests at points that are easily accessible.
Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe
procedures.
Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire
problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure
no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur.
Test Equipment
Test Equipment
CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
1O-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up
of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to
various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is
voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital
volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is
between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM).
In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low
resistance means good continuity.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Starting System > Ignition Switch > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5510
Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a
reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is
affecting the measurement.
To order any test equipment shown, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool
numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin.
Jumper Wire
Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder
connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire
across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse.
To order any test equipment shown, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool
numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin.
Troubleshooting Precautions
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION: -
Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
- Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles.
2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part
Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place.
CAUTION: -
Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Starting System > Ignition Switch > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5511
- Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-mega
ohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that
contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
Troubleshooting Tests
Troubleshooting Tests
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt
ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest
"OHMS" range.
2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you
want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Starting System > Ignition Switch > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5512
4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or
no reading (zero), means good continuity.
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem. Circuits must be operating when checking
voltage drop.
1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts
range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage
is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM
voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Starting System > Ignition Switch > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5513
Ignition Switch: Connector Views
Test
SRS components are located in the area. Review the SRS component locations and precautions
and procedures before performing repairs or servicing.
1. Make sure you have the anti-theft code for the audio system or the navigation system (if
equipped), then write down the audio presets. Make sure
2. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 3. Remove the driver's dashboard lower cover, and the
steering column covers. 4. Disconnect the 7P connector (A) from the ignition switch (B).
5. Check for continuity between the terminals in each switch position according to the table.
6. If the continuity checks do not agree with the table, replace the ignition switch. 7. After
reconnecting the battery, enter the anti-theft code for the audio system or the navigation system (if
equipped), then enter the audio presets.
Replacement
SRS components are located in the area. Review the SRS component locations and precautions
and procedures before performing repairs or servicing.
1. Make sure you have the anti-theft code for the audio system or the navigation system (if
equipped), then write down the audio presets. Make sure
2. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 3. Remove the driver's dashboard lower cover, and the
steering column covers. 4. Disconnect the 7P connector (A) from the ignition switch (B).
5. Remove the two screws and the ignition switch. 6. Install in the reverse order of removal. 7. After
reconnecting the battery, enter the anti-theft code for the audio system or the navigation system (if
equipped), then enter the audio presets.
M/T
1. Disconnect the wires from the M terminal. 2. Make a connections for this test using the thickest
(gauge) wire possible (preferably the same gauge as used on the vehicle).
NOTE: To avoid damaging the starter, never leave the battery connected for more than 10
seconds.
3. Connect the battery as shown. Make sure you disconnect the starter motor wire from the
solenoid. If the starter pinion moves out, it is working
properly.
4. Disconnect the battery from the M terminal. If the pinion does not retract, the hold-in coil of the
solenoid is working properly.
5. Disconnect the battery from the starter body. If the pinion retracts immediately, it is working
properly.
6. Clamp the starter firmly in a vise. 7. Reconnect the wire to the M terminal. 8. Connect the starter
to the battery as shown, and check that the motor runs.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Starting System > Starter Motor > Component Information > Testing
and Inspection > Page 5523
9. If the electric current meets the specification when the battery voltage is at 11.5 V, the starter is
working properly.
A/T
1. Make a connection for this test using the thickest (gauge) wire possible (preferably the same
gauge as used on the vehicle).
NOTE: To avoid damaging the starter, never leave the battery connected for more than 10
seconds.
2. Connect the battery as shown. If the starter pinion moves out, it is working properly. 3.
Disconnect the battery terminal from the starter as shown. If the pinion retracts immediately, it is
working properly.
4. Clamp the starter firmly in a vise. 5. Connect the starter to the battery as shown, and confirm that
the motor starts and keeps rotating.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Starting System > Starter Motor > Component Information > Testing
and Inspection > Page 5524
6. If the electric current meets the specification when the battery voltage is at 11.5 V, the starter is
working properly.
Removal
1. Make sure you have the anti-theft code for the audio system or the navigation system (if
equipped), then write down the audio presets. 2. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery. 3.
Remove exhaust pipe A.
5. Remove the harness clamps (A) and harness connector (B) from each clamp.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Starting System > Starter Motor > Component Information > Service
and Repair > Removal and Replacement > Page 5527
6. Remove the two bolts securing the starter, then remove the starter from the engine.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Starting System > Starter Motor > Component Information > Service
and Repair > Removal and Replacement > Page 5528
7. Disconnect the starter cable (A) from the B terminal. Disconnect the connector (B) from the S
terminal, then remove the starter.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Starting System > Starter Motor > Component Information > Service
and Repair > Removal and Replacement > Page 5529
Installation
1. Install the starter cable (A) and connector (B). Make sure the starter cable crimped side of the
ring terminal faces away from the starter when you
connect it.
2. Install the starter, then loosely install the upper mounting bolt (A) and lower mounting bolt (B).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Starting System > Starter Motor > Component Information > Service
and Repair > Removal and Replacement > Page 5530
3. Tighten the upper mounting bolt, then tighten the lower mounting bolt. 4. Install the harness
clamps (A) and harness connector (B) to each clamp.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Starting System > Starter Motor > Component Information > Service
and Repair > Removal and Replacement > Page 5531
5. Install the intake manifold bracket.
6. Install exhaust pipe A. Use new gaskets (6) and new self-locking nuts (C).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Starting System > Starter Motor > Component Information > Service
and Repair > Removal and Replacement > Page 5532
7. Connect the negative cable to the battery. 8. Start the engine to make sure the starter works
properly. 9. Enter the anti-theft code for the audio system or the navigation system (if equipped),
then enter the audio presets.
1. Remove the starter. 2. Disassemble the starter as shown at the beginning of this procedure. 3.
Inspect the armature for wear or damage from contact with the permanent magnet. If there is wear
or damage, replace the armature.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Starting System > Starter Motor > Component Information > Service
and Repair > Removal and Replacement > Page 5534
4. Check the commutator (A) surface. If the surface is dirty or burnt, resurface it with an emery
cloth or a lathe to the specifications in step 5, or
5. Check the commutator diameter. If the diameter is below the service limit, replace the armature.
- If the commutator runout is within the service limit, check the commutator for carbon dust or brass
chips between the segments.
- If the commutator runout is not within the service limit, replace the armature.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Starting System > Starter Motor > Component Information > Service
and Repair > Removal and Replacement > Page 5535
7. Check the mica depth (A). If the mica is too high (B), undercut the mica with a hacksaw blade to
the proper depth. Cut away all the mica (C)
between the commutator segments. The undercut should not be too shallow, too narrow, or
V-shaped (D).
8. Check for continuity between the segments of the commutator. If there is open circuit between
any of the segments, replace the armature.
9. Place the armature (A) on an armature tester (B). Hold a hacksaw blade (C) on the armature
core. If the blade is attracted to the core or vibrates
while the core is turned, the armature is shorted. Replace the armature.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
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and Repair > Removal and Replacement > Page 5536
10. Check for continuity between the commutator (A) and the armature coil core (B), and between
the commutator and the armature shaft (C). If there
11. Measure the brush length. If it is not within the service limit, replace the brush holder assembly.
12. Check for continuity between the brushes (A). If there is no continuity, replace the armature
housing (B).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
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and Repair > Removal and Replacement > Page 5537
13. Check for continuity between each brush (A) and the armature housing (B). If there is
continuity, replace the armature housing.
14. Check for continuity between the (+) brush holders (A) and (-) brush holders (B). If there is
continuity, replace the brush holder assembly.
15. Insert the brush (A) into the brush holder, and bring the brush into contact with the commutator,
then attach a spring scale (B) to the spring (C).
Measure the spring tension at the moment the spring lifts off the brush. If the spring tension is not
within specification, replace the starter brush holder.
16. Slide the overrunning clutch (A) along the shaft. Replace it, if it does not slide smoothly.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
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and Repair > Removal and Replacement > Page 5538
17. Hold the drive gear (B), and turn the overrunning clutch in the direction shown to make sure it
turns freely. Also make sure the overrunning clutch
18. If the starter drive gear is worn or damaged, replace the overrunning clutch assembly; the gear
is not available separately.
Check the condition of the flywheel ring gear if the starter drive gear teeth are damaged.
Starter Reassembly
19. Pry back each brush spring with a screwdriver, then position the brush about halfway out of its
holder. Release the spring to hold it in place.
NOTE: To seat new brushes, slip a strip of # 500 or # 600 sandpaper, with the grit side up,
between the commutator and each brush, and smoothly turn the armature. The contact surface of
the brushes will be sanded to the same contour as the commutator.
20. Install the armature in the housing, and install the brush holder. Next, pry back each brush
spring again, and push the brush down until it seats
against the commutator, then release the spring against the end of the brush.
21. Install the starter end cover to retain the brush holder.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Starting System > Starter Motor > Component Information > Service
and Repair > Removal and Replacement > Page 5539
Armature Inspection and Test
1. Remove the starter. 2. Disassemble the starter as shown at the beginning of this procedure. 3.
Inspect the armature for wear or damage from contact with the permanent magnet. If there is wear
or damage, replace the armature.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Starting System > Starter Motor > Component Information > Service
and Repair > Removal and Replacement > Page 5540
4. Check the commutator (A) surface. If the surface is dirty or burnt, resurface it with an emery
cloth or a lathe to the specifications in step 5, or
5. Check the commutator diameter. If the diameter is below the service limit, replace the armature.
- If the commutator runout is within the service limit, check the commutator for carbon dust or brass
chips between the segments.
- If the commutator runout is not within the service limit, replace the armature.
7. Check the mica depth (A). If the mica is too high (B), undercut the mica with a hacksaw blade to
the proper depth. Cut away all the mica (C)
between the commutator segments. The undercut should not be too shallow, too narrow, or
V-shaped (D).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Starting System > Starter Motor > Component Information > Service
and Repair > Removal and Replacement > Page 5541
8. Check for continuity between the segments of the commutator. If there is an open circuit
between any of the segments, replace the armature.
9. Place the armature (A) on an armature tester (B), Hold a hacksaw blade (C) on the armature
core. If the blade is attracted to the core or vibrates
while the core is turned, the armature is shorted. Replace the armature.
10. Check with an ohmmeter for continuity between the commutator (A) and the armature coil core
(B), and between the commutator and the armature
11. Measure the brush length. If it is shorter than the service limit, replace the brush holder
assembly.
12. Check for continuity between the (+) brushes (A) and (-) brushes (B). If there is continuity,
replace the brush holder assembly.
13. Check the planetary gears (A) and internal ring gear (B). Replace them if they are worn or
damaged.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Starting System > Starter Motor > Component Information > Service
and Repair > Removal and Replacement > Page 5543
Overrunning Clutch Inspection
14. While holding the drive gear (A), turn the gear shaft (B) counterclockwise. Check that the drive
gear comes out to the other end. If the drive gear
15. While holding the drive gear, turn the gear shaft clockwise. The gear shaft should turn freely. If
the gear shaft does not turn freely, replace the gear
cover assembly.
16. If the starter drive gear is worn or damaged, replace the overrunning clutch assembly; the gear
is not available separately.
Check the condition of the torque converter ring gear to see if the starter drive gear teeth are
damaged.
Starter Reassembly
17. Install the brush into the brush holder, and set the armature (A) in the brush holder (B).
NOTE: To seat the new brushes, slip a strip of # 500 or #600 sandpaper, with the grit side up,
between the commutator and each brush, and smoothly turn the armature. The contact surface of
the brushes will be sanded to the same contour as the commutator.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Starting System > Starter Motor > Component Information > Service
and Repair > Removal and Replacement > Page 5544
18. While squeezing a spring (C), insert it in the hole on the brush holder, and push it until it
bottoms. Repeat this for the other three springs (D, E,
and F).
19. Install the armature and brush holder assembly into the housing.
171. Shift Lock Solenoid Cut Relay And Start Relay (Honda Accessory: Canada A/T)
267. Fuel Shut-off Solenoid Valve Relay (GX) And Starter Control Relay (GX)
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Starting System > Starter Relay > Component Information > Locations
> Page 5551
Starter Relay: Testing and Inspection
Use this chart to identify the type of relay, then do the test listed for it.
Normally-open type
- There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when battery positive terminal
is connected to the No. 4 terminal, and battery negative terminal is connected to the No. 3 terminal.
- There should be no continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power is
disconnected.
Five-terminal type
- There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when battery positive terminal
is connected to the No. 5 terminal, and battery negative terminal is connected to the No. 3 terminal.
- There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 4 terminals when power is disconnected.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Starting System > Starter Relay > Component Information > Locations
> Page 5552
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Starting System > Starter Solenoid > Component Information >
Locations
M/T
3. Check the hold-in coil for continuity between the S terminal and the armature housing (ground)
(B). There should be continuity.
4. Check the pull-in coil for continuity between the S terminal and the M terminal. There should be
continuity.
Circuit Schematics
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Auxiliary Power Outlet > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5566
Circuit Schematics
Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show
current flow, from power at the top of the diagram, to ground at the bottom.
Shared Circuits
Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that
connects one circuit to another, for example, is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it
pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or
component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring, check the operation of a
component it serves. If that component works, you know the shared wiring is OK.
Connectors
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Auxiliary Power Outlet > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5567
All in-line and junction connectors are numbered (C725, C416, etc.). Component connectors are
not numbered but are identified either by the name of the component if the component only has
one connector, or by a capital letter (A, B, C, etc.) if the component has more than one connector.
Below most connector numbers and component names are PHOTO and VIEW numbers. The
PHOTO number refers to a photo at Vehicle Level Locations that shows the connector's location on
the car. The VIEW number refers to an connector view at the Vehicle Level Connector Views that
shows the connector terminals, wire colors, connector cavity numbers, and other details.
The connector cavity numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector as seen
from either of the viewpoints. Except for the DLC (data link connector), disregard any numbers
molded into the connector housing.
Wires
Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the
stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number "2" next to the male
and female wire terminals at C554, for example, means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector
C554.
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the vehicle. Refer to the Power Distribution Diagram Set to get a more detailed
understanding of how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on. Individual circuit
schematics begin with a fuse. So if Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another
circuit share a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good
and power is available to the inoperative circuit.
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share the same
ground point.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Auxiliary Power Outlet > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5569
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Auxiliary Power Outlet > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5570
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Auxiliary Power Outlet > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5571
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Auxiliary Power Outlet > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5572
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Auxiliary Power Outlet > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5573
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Auxiliary Power Outlet > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5574
How to Identify Connector Terminals
Connector terminals are numbered according to the cavities they are in. The cavities are numbered
starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side or looking at the
female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the
same. All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not
the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the
connector face.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Auxiliary Power Outlet > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5575
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown above is #6.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Auxiliary Power Outlet > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5576
The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice
connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for
all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement
terminal availability.
On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged,
replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If
any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it.
Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the
wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the
terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to
make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a
factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS.
Use the tools from Pin Tool Set. First, check the connector that you are about to repair.
- If it has a secondary terminal lock, go to Connectors With a Secondary Lock. A secondary lock,
found on most connectors on some models, is an additional locking device on the connector
housing as a backup for the primary lock on the terminal.
- If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock.
All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the
secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the
connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities.
EXAMPLE A:
EXAMPLE B:
EXAMPLE C:
EXAMPLE D:
2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW
TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE E:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Auxiliary Power Outlet > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5580
1. Remove the secondary locks.
2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW
TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE F:
3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of
connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary
in size and shape.
EXAMPLE A:
EXAMPLE B:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Auxiliary Power Outlet > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5582
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE C:
EXAMPLE D:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Auxiliary Power Outlet > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5583
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE E:
EXAMPLE F:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Auxiliary Power Outlet > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5584
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE G:
1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct
replacement terminal based on the wire size range
NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part
number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available
through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures.
2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Auxiliary Power Outlet > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5585
3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the
wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from
the kit.)
NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did,
cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again.
4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the
anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown
in step 3.
6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact.
- If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool
over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the
stops make contact.
- If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully
squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Auxiliary Power Outlet > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5586
8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the following NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and
start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the
way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure
10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector.
Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too
short or when access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair.
On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged,
replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If
any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it.
1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from
Pin Tool Set.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
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Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5587
2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal,
then strip about half of the insulation off that piece.
This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal.
NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will
not nick or cut off any strands of wires.
3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and
same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit
onto the stripped end of the original wire.
5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the
pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more
than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at
the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the
harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make
each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail.
7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends
of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue
NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the
stripper.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
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Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5588
8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the
flare begins), and close the crimper handles far
enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click,
squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open.
9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the
wire all the way into the splice connector, and
squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until
the ratchet clicks again.
10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After
crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the
connector.
12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire(s), and shield them with
nonflammable material.
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13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the
gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat
evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete
when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube.
NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun.
Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the
wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size)
splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select
the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in
quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures.
Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the
Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching
connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body.
1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector.
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Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5590
2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool.
NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal
because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit.
3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal
with a replacement terminal from the appropriate
Five-Step Troubleshooting
Five-Step Troubleshooting
Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint.
Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
problem area.
Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by
tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground (certain
circuits contain a "How the Circuit Works" Diagram set). Also, trace circuits that share wiring with
the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on,
are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step
1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used
only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely
cause.
Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more
possible causes.
Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple
procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to
make tests at points that are easily accessible.
Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe
procedures.
Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire
problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure
no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur.
Test Equipment
Test Equipment
CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
1O-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up
of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to
various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is
voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital
volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is
between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM).
In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low
resistance means good continuity.
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Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a
reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is
affecting the measurement.
To order any test equipment shown, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool
numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin.
Jumper Wire
Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder
connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire
across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse.
To order any test equipment shown, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool
numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin.
Troubleshooting Precautions
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION: -
Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
- Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles.
2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part
Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place.
CAUTION: -
Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
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Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5592
- Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-mega
ohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that
contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
Troubleshooting Tests
Troubleshooting Tests
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt
ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest
"OHMS" range.
2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you
want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end.
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4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or
no reading (zero), means good continuity.
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem. Circuits must be operating when checking
voltage drop.
1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts
range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage
is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM
voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
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Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5594
138. Accessory Power Socket Relay, Front, Accessory Power Socket Relay, Rear (EX, Si) Or
Injector Control Module Relay (GX)
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Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5595
Auxiliary Power Outlet: Electrical Diagrams
Wiring Diagrams
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Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5596
Diagram 155-0
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Diagram 155-1
Diagrams: Other diagrams referred to by number (See Diagram ##-#, etc.) within these diagrams
can be found at Diagrams by Number. See: Diagrams/Electrical Diagrams/Diagrams By Number
Locations: Location photographs (references to PHOTOS) referred to within these diagrams can be
found at Locations by Photo Number. See: Locations/Component Locations/Locations By Photo
Number
Connector Views: Connector terminal views (references to VIEWS) referred to within these
diagrams can be found at Connector Views by View Number. See: Diagrams/Connector
Views/Connector Views By View Number
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Auxiliary Power Outlet > Component
Information > Testing and Inspection > Power Relay Test
Auxiliary Power Outlet: Testing and Inspection Power Relay Test
Use this chart to identify the type of relay, then do the test listed for it.
Normally-open type
- There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when battery positive terminal
is connected to the No. 4 terminal, and battery negative terminal is connected to the No. 3 terminal.
- There should be no continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power is
disconnected.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Auxiliary Power Outlet > Component
Information > Testing and Inspection > Power Relay Test > Page 5600
Auxiliary Power Outlet: Testing and Inspection Front Accessory Power Socket Test/Replacement
NOTE: If both of the front and rear accessory power sockets do not work, check the No. 35 (7.5 A)
fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box.
- With Audio.
- With Navigation.
2. Disconnect the 2P connector (A) from the front accessory power socket (B).
3. Inspect the connector terminals to be sure they are all making good contact.
- If the terminals are bent, loose, or corroded, repair them as necessary and recheck the system.
4. Turn the ignition switch to ACC (I). 5. Measure the voltage between the power accessory socket
2P connector No. 1 terminal and body ground. There should be battery voltage.
6. Check for continuity between the No. 2 terminal and body ground. There should be continuity.
NOTE: If both of the front and rear accessory power sockets do not work, check the No. 35 (7.5 A)
fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box.
1. Remove the center console. 2. Disconnect the 2P connector (A) from the rear accessory power
socket (B).
3. Inspect the connector terminals to be sure they are all making good contact.
- If the terminals are bent, loose, or corroded, repair them as necessary and recheck the system.
4. Turn the ignition switch to ACC (I), and measure the voltage between the No. 1 terminal and
body ground. There should be battery voltage.
5. Check for continuity between the No. 2 terminal and body ground. There should be continuity.
NOTE: If both of the front and rear accessory power sockets do not work, check the No. 35 (7.5 A)
fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box.
- With Audio.
- With Navigation.
2. Disconnect the 2P connector (A) from the front accessory power socket (B).
3. Inspect the connector terminals to be sure they are all making good contact.
- If the terminals are bent, loose, or corroded, repair them as necessary and recheck the system.
4. Turn the ignition switch to ACC (I). 5. Measure the voltage between the power accessory socket
2P connector No. 1 terminal and body ground. There should be battery voltage.
6. Check for continuity between the No. 2 terminal and body ground. There should be continuity.
Circuit Schematics
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5619
Circuit Schematics
Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show
current flow, from power at the top of the diagram, to ground at the bottom.
Shared Circuits
Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that
connects one circuit to another, for example, is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it
pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or
component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring, check the operation of a
component it serves. If that component works, you know the shared wiring is OK.
Connectors
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5620
All in-line and junction connectors are numbered (C725, C416, etc.). Component connectors are
not numbered but are identified either by the name of the component if the component only has
one connector, or by a capital letter (A, B, C, etc.) if the component has more than one connector.
Below most connector numbers and component names are PHOTO and VIEW numbers. The
PHOTO number refers to a photo at Vehicle Level Locations that shows the connector's location on
the car. The VIEW number refers to an connector view at the Vehicle Level Connector Views that
shows the connector terminals, wire colors, connector cavity numbers, and other details.
The connector cavity numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector as seen
from either of the viewpoints. Except for the DLC (data link connector), disregard any numbers
molded into the connector housing.
Wires
Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the
stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number "2" next to the male
and female wire terminals at C554, for example, means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector
C554.
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the vehicle. Refer to the Power Distribution Diagram Set to get a more detailed
understanding of how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on. Individual circuit
schematics begin with a fuse. So if Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another
circuit share a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good
and power is available to the inoperative circuit.
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share the same
ground point.
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5623
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5624
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5625
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5626
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5627
How to Identify Connector Terminals
Connector terminals are numbered according to the cavities they are in. The cavities are numbered
starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side or looking at the
female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the
same. All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not
the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the
connector face.
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The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown above is #6.
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5629
The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice
connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for
all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement
terminal availability.
On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged,
replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If
any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it.
Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the
wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the
terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to
make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a
factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS.
Use the tools from Pin Tool Set. First, check the connector that you are about to repair.
- If it has a secondary terminal lock, go to Connectors With a Secondary Lock. A secondary lock,
found on most connectors on some models, is an additional locking device on the connector
housing as a backup for the primary lock on the terminal.
- If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock.
All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the
secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the
connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities.
EXAMPLE A:
EXAMPLE B:
EXAMPLE C:
EXAMPLE D:
2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW
TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE E:
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5633
1. Remove the secondary locks.
2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW
TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE F:
3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of
connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary
in size and shape.
EXAMPLE A:
EXAMPLE B:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5635
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE C:
EXAMPLE D:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5636
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE E:
EXAMPLE F:
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5637
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE G:
1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct
replacement terminal based on the wire size range
NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part
number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available
through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures.
2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool.
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5638
3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the
wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from
the kit.)
NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did,
cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again.
4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the
anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown
in step 3.
6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact.
- If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool
over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the
stops make contact.
- If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully
squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape.
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8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the following NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and
start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the
way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure
10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector.
Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too
short or when access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair.
On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged,
replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If
any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it.
1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from
Pin Tool Set.
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2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal,
then strip about half of the insulation off that piece.
This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal.
NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will
not nick or cut off any strands of wires.
3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and
same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit
onto the stripped end of the original wire.
5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the
pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more
than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at
the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the
harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make
each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail.
7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends
of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue
NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the
stripper.
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8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the
flare begins), and close the crimper handles far
enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click,
squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open.
9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the
wire all the way into the splice connector, and
squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until
the ratchet clicks again.
10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After
crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the
connector.
12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire(s), and shield them with
nonflammable material.
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13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the
gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat
evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete
when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube.
NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun.
Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the
wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size)
splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select
the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in
quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures.
Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the
Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching
connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body.
1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector.
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2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool.
NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal
because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit.
3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal
with a replacement terminal from the appropriate
Five-Step Troubleshooting
Five-Step Troubleshooting
Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint.
Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
problem area.
Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by
tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground (certain
circuits contain a "How the Circuit Works" Diagram set). Also, trace circuits that share wiring with
the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on,
are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step
1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used
only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely
cause.
Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more
possible causes.
Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple
procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to
make tests at points that are easily accessible.
Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe
procedures.
Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire
problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure
no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur.
Test Equipment
Test Equipment
CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
1O-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up
of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to
various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is
voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital
volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is
between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM).
In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low
resistance means good continuity.
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Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a
reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is
affecting the measurement.
To order any test equipment shown, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool
numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin.
Jumper Wire
Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder
connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire
across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse.
To order any test equipment shown, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool
numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin.
Troubleshooting Precautions
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION: -
Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
- Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles.
2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part
Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place.
CAUTION: -
Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
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- Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-mega
ohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that
contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
Troubleshooting Tests
Troubleshooting Tests
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt
ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest
"OHMS" range.
2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you
want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end.
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4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or
no reading (zero), means good continuity.
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem. Circuits must be operating when checking
voltage drop.
1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts
range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage
is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM
voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
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66. Remote Starting System In-line Fuse (Honda Accessory: Canada A/T)
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Fuse > Component Information >
Application and ID > Under-Dash Fuse/Relay Box
Fuse: Application and ID Under-Dash Fuse/Relay Box
Circuit Schematics
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Circuit Schematics
Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show
current flow, from power at the top of the diagram, to ground at the bottom.
Shared Circuits
Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that
connects one circuit to another, for example, is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it
pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or
component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring, check the operation of a
component it serves. If that component works, you know the shared wiring is OK.
Connectors
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All in-line and junction connectors are numbered (C725, C416, etc.). Component connectors are
not numbered but are identified either by the name of the component if the component only has
one connector, or by a capital letter (A, B, C, etc.) if the component has more than one connector.
Below most connector numbers and component names are PHOTO and VIEW numbers. The
PHOTO number refers to a photo at Vehicle Level Locations that shows the connector's location on
the car. The VIEW number refers to an connector view at the Vehicle Level Connector Views that
shows the connector terminals, wire colors, connector cavity numbers, and other details.
The connector cavity numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector as seen
from either of the viewpoints. Except for the DLC (data link connector), disregard any numbers
molded into the connector housing.
Wires
Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the
stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number "2" next to the male
and female wire terminals at C554, for example, means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector
C554.
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the vehicle. Refer to the Power Distribution Diagram Set to get a more detailed
understanding of how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on. Individual circuit
schematics begin with a fuse. So if Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another
circuit share a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good
and power is available to the inoperative circuit.
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share the same
ground point.
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How to Identify Connector Terminals
Connector terminals are numbered according to the cavities they are in. The cavities are numbered
starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side or looking at the
female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the
same. All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not
the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the
connector face.
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The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown above is #6.
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The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice
connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for
all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement
terminal availability.
On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged,
replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If
any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it.
Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the
wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the
terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to
make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a
factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS.
Use the tools from Pin Tool Set. First, check the connector that you are about to repair.
- If it has a secondary terminal lock, go to Connectors With a Secondary Lock. A secondary lock,
found on most connectors on some models, is an additional locking device on the connector
housing as a backup for the primary lock on the terminal.
- If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock.
All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the
secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the
connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities.
EXAMPLE A:
EXAMPLE B:
EXAMPLE C:
EXAMPLE D:
2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW
TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE E:
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1. Remove the secondary locks.
2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW
TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE F:
3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of
connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary
in size and shape.
EXAMPLE A:
EXAMPLE B:
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1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE C:
EXAMPLE D:
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1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE E:
EXAMPLE F:
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1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE G:
1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct
replacement terminal based on the wire size range
NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part
number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available
through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures.
2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool.
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3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the
wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from
the kit.)
NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did,
cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again.
4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the
anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown
in step 3.
6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact.
- If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool
over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the
stops make contact.
- If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully
squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape.
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8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the following NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and
start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the
way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure
10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector.
Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too
short or when access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair.
On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged,
replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If
any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it.
1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from
Pin Tool Set.
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2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal,
then strip about half of the insulation off that piece.
This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal.
NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will
not nick or cut off any strands of wires.
3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and
same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit
onto the stripped end of the original wire.
5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the
pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more
than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at
the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the
harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make
each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail.
7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends
of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue
NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the
stripper.
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8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the
flare begins), and close the crimper handles far
enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click,
squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open.
9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the
wire all the way into the splice connector, and
squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until
the ratchet clicks again.
10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After
crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the
connector.
12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire(s), and shield them with
nonflammable material.
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13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the
gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat
evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete
when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube.
NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun.
Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the
wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size)
splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select
the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in
quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures.
Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the
Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching
connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body.
1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector.
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2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool.
NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal
because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit.
3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal
with a replacement terminal from the appropriate
Five-Step Troubleshooting
Five-Step Troubleshooting
Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint.
Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
problem area.
Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by
tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground (certain
circuits contain a "How the Circuit Works" Diagram set). Also, trace circuits that share wiring with
the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on,
are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step
1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used
only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely
cause.
Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more
possible causes.
Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple
procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to
make tests at points that are easily accessible.
Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe
procedures.
Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire
problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure
no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur.
Test Equipment
Test Equipment
CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
1O-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up
of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to
various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is
voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital
volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is
between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM).
In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low
resistance means good continuity.
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Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a
reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is
affecting the measurement.
To order any test equipment shown, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool
numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin.
Jumper Wire
Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder
connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire
across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse.
To order any test equipment shown, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool
numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin.
Troubleshooting Precautions
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION: -
Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
- Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles.
2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part
Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place.
CAUTION: -
Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
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- Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-mega
ohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that
contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
Troubleshooting Tests
Troubleshooting Tests
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt
ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest
"OHMS" range.
2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you
want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end.
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4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or
no reading (zero), means good continuity.
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem. Circuits must be operating when checking
voltage drop.
1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts
range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage
is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM
voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
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Removal
1. Make sure you have the anti-theft code for the audio system or the navigation system (if
equipped), then write down the audio presets. 2. Make sure the ignition switch is OFF. 3.
Disconnect the negative battery cable, then disconnect the positive cable, and wait at least 3
minutes. 4. Remove the screws (A) for the alternator and battery cable terminals from the
under-hood fuse/relay box.
5. Remove the bottom cover from the under-hood fuse/relay box. 6. Disconnect the connectors
from the under-hood fuse/relay box. 7. Carefully remove the relays by prying under the base of the
relay.
NOTE: Do not use pliers. Pliers will damage the relays, which could cause the engine to stall or not
start.
Installation
1. Install the relays and connect the connectors to the under-hood fuse/relay box, then install the
under-hood fuse/relay box in the reverse order of
removal.
2. Install the removed parts in the reverse order of removal. 3. Connect the positive cable to the
battery, then connect the negative cable to the battery. 4. Enter the anti-theft code for the audio
system or the navigation system (if equipped), then enter the audio presets. Set the clock (on
vehicles
without navigation).
SRS components are located in this area. Review the SRS component locations and precautions
and procedures before performing repairs or servicing.
Removal
1. Make sure you have the anti-theft code for the audio system or the navigation system (if
equipped), then write down the audio presets. 2. Make sure the ignition switch is OFF. 3.
Disconnect the negative battery cable, then disconnect the positive cable, and wait at least 3
minutes. 4. Remove the driver's dashboard lower cover. 5. Disconnect the connectors from the
fuse side of the under-dash fuse/relay box (A).
6. Remove the mounting bolt, and pull the fuse/relay box away from the body. 7. Disconnect the
connectors from the back side of the under-dash fuse/relay box, then remove the under-dash
fuse/relay box. 8. Carefully remove the relays by prying under the base of the relay.
NOTE: Do not use pliers. Pliers will damage the relays, which could cause the engine to stall or not
start.
Installation
1. Install the relays and connect the connectors to the under-dash fuse/relay box, then install the
under-dash fuse/relay box in the reverse order of
removal.
2. Install the removed parts in the reverse order of removal. 3. Connect the positive cable to the
battery, then connect the negative cable to the battery. 4. Register the immobilizer system with the
HDS.
NOTE: The imoes unit is built into the MICU which is part of the under-dash fuse/relay box.
Because of this construction, the imoes must be registered, or the vehicle will not start.
5. Enter the anti-theft code for the audio system or the navigation system (if equipped), then enter
the audio presets. Set the clock (on vehicles
without navigation).
Multiple Junction Connector: Service and Repair How to Replace Connector Terminals
The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice
connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for
all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement
terminal availability.
On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged,
replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If
any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it.
Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the
wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the
terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to
make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a
factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS.
Use the tools from Pin Tool Set. First, check the connector that you are about to repair.
- If it has a secondary terminal lock, go to Connectors With a Secondary Lock. A secondary lock,
found on most connectors on some models, is an additional locking device on the connector
housing as a backup for the primary lock on the terminal.
- If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock.
All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the
secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the
connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities.
EXAMPLE A:
EXAMPLE B:
EXAMPLE C:
EXAMPLE D:
2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW
TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE E:
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Component Information > Service and Repair > How to Replace Connector Terminals > Page 5737
1. Remove the secondary locks.
2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW
TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE F:
3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of
connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary
in size and shape.
EXAMPLE A:
EXAMPLE B:
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Component Information > Service and Repair > How to Replace Connector Terminals > Page 5739
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE C:
EXAMPLE D:
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Multiple Junction Connector >
Component Information > Service and Repair > How to Replace Connector Terminals > Page 5740
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE E:
EXAMPLE F:
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Component Information > Service and Repair > How to Replace Connector Terminals > Page 5741
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE G:
1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct
replacement terminal based on the wire size range
NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part
number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available
through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures.
2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool.
3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the
wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from
the kit.)
NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did,
cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again.
4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the
anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown
in step 3.
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Component Information > Service and Repair > How to Replace Connector Terminals > Page 5743
6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact.
- If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool
over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the
stops make contact.
- If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully
squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape.
8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the following NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and
start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the
way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure
10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector.
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Component Information > Service and Repair > How to Replace Connector Terminals > Page 5744
Multiple Junction Connector: Service and Repair How to Install Pigtail Terminals
Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too
short or when access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair.
On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged,
replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If
any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it.
1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from
Pin Tool Set.
2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal,
then strip about half of the insulation off that piece.
This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal.
NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will
not nick or cut off any strands of wires.
3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and
same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit
onto the stripped end of the original wire.
5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the
pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more
than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at
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the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the
harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make
each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail.
7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends
of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue
NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the
stripper.
8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the
flare begins), and close the crimper handles far
enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click,
squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open.
9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the
wire all the way into the splice connector, and
squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until
the ratchet clicks again.
10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After
crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the
connector.
12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire(s), and shield them with
nonflammable material.
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13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the
gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat
evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete
when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube.
NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun.
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Component Information > Service and Repair > How to Replace Connector Terminals > Page 5747
Multiple Junction Connector: Service and Repair Pigtail Terminal Selection Chart
Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the
wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size)
splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select
the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in
quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures.
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Component Information > Service and Repair > How to Replace Connector Terminals > Page 5748
Multiple Junction Connector: Service and Repair Checking For Poor Fit Terminals
Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the
Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching
connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body.
1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector.
2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool.
NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal
because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit.
3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal
with a replacement terminal from the appropriate
Removal
1. Make sure you have the anti-theft code for the audio system or the navigation system (if
equipped), then write down the audio presets. 2. Make sure the ignition switch is OFF. 3.
Disconnect the negative battery cable, then disconnect the positive cable, and wait at least 3
minutes. 4. Remove the screws (A) for the alternator and battery cable terminals from the
under-hood fuse/relay box.
5. Remove the bottom cover from the under-hood fuse/relay box. 6. Disconnect the connectors
from the under-hood fuse/relay box. 7. Carefully remove the relays by prying under the base of the
relay.
NOTE: Do not use pliers. Pliers will damage the relays, which could cause the engine to stall or not
start.
Installation
1. Install the relays and connect the connectors to the under-hood fuse/relay box, then install the
under-hood fuse/relay box in the reverse order of
removal.
2. Install the removed parts in the reverse order of removal. 3. Connect the positive cable to the
battery, then connect the negative cable to the battery. 4. Enter the anti-theft code for the audio
system or the navigation system (if equipped), then enter the audio presets. Set the clock (on
vehicles
without navigation).
SRS components are located in this area. Review the SRS component locations and precautions
and procedures before performing repairs or servicing.
Removal
1. Make sure you have the anti-theft code for the audio system or the navigation system (if
equipped), then write down the audio presets. 2. Make sure the ignition switch is OFF. 3.
Disconnect the negative battery cable, then disconnect the positive cable, and wait at least 3
minutes. 4. Remove the driver's dashboard lower cover. 5. Disconnect the connectors from the
fuse side of the under-dash fuse/relay box (A).
6. Remove the mounting bolt, and pull the fuse/relay box away from the body. 7. Disconnect the
connectors from the back side of the under-dash fuse/relay box, then remove the under-dash
fuse/relay box. 8. Carefully remove the relays by prying under the base of the relay.
NOTE: Do not use pliers. Pliers will damage the relays, which could cause the engine to stall or not
start.
Installation
1. Install the relays and connect the connectors to the under-dash fuse/relay box, then install the
under-dash fuse/relay box in the reverse order of
removal.
2. Install the removed parts in the reverse order of removal. 3. Connect the positive cable to the
battery, then connect the negative cable to the battery. 4. Register the immobilizer system with the
HDS.
NOTE: The imoes unit is built into the MICU which is part of the under-dash fuse/relay box.
Because of this construction, the imoes must be registered, or the vehicle will not start.
5. Enter the anti-theft code for the audio system or the navigation system (if equipped), then enter
the audio presets. Set the clock (on vehicles
without navigation).
Removal
1. Make sure you have the anti-theft code for the audio system or the navigation system (if
equipped), then write down the audio presets. 2. Make sure the ignition switch is OFF. 3.
Disconnect the negative battery cable, then disconnect the positive cable, and wait at least 3
minutes. 4. Remove the screws (A) for the alternator and battery cable terminals from the
under-hood fuse/relay box.
5. Remove the bottom cover from the under-hood fuse/relay box. 6. Disconnect the connectors
from the under-hood fuse/relay box. 7. Carefully remove the relays by prying under the base of the
relay.
NOTE: Do not use pliers. Pliers will damage the relays, which could cause the engine to stall or not
start.
Installation
1. Install the relays and connect the connectors to the under-hood fuse/relay box, then install the
under-hood fuse/relay box in the reverse order of
removal.
2. Install the removed parts in the reverse order of removal. 3. Connect the positive cable to the
battery, then connect the negative cable to the battery. 4. Enter the anti-theft code for the audio
system or the navigation system (if equipped), then enter the audio presets. Set the clock (on
vehicles
without navigation).
SRS components are located in this area. Review the SRS component locations and precautions
and procedures before performing repairs or servicing.
Removal
1. Make sure you have the anti-theft code for the audio system or the navigation system (if
equipped), then write down the audio presets. 2. Make sure the ignition switch is OFF. 3.
Disconnect the negative battery cable, then disconnect the positive cable, and wait at least 3
minutes. 4. Remove the driver's dashboard lower cover. 5. Disconnect the connectors from the
fuse side of the under-dash fuse/relay box (A).
6. Remove the mounting bolt, and pull the fuse/relay box away from the body. 7. Disconnect the
connectors from the back side of the under-dash fuse/relay box, then remove the under-dash
fuse/relay box. 8. Carefully remove the relays by prying under the base of the relay.
NOTE: Do not use pliers. Pliers will damage the relays, which could cause the engine to stall or not
start.
Installation
1. Install the relays and connect the connectors to the under-dash fuse/relay box, then install the
under-dash fuse/relay box in the reverse order of
removal.
2. Install the removed parts in the reverse order of removal. 3. Connect the positive cable to the
battery, then connect the negative cable to the battery. 4. Register the immobilizer system with the
HDS.
NOTE: The imoes unit is built into the MICU which is part of the under-dash fuse/relay box.
Because of this construction, the imoes must be registered, or the vehicle will not start.
5. Enter the anti-theft code for the audio system or the navigation system (if equipped), then enter
the audio presets. Set the clock (on vehicles
without navigation).
Circuit Schematics
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> Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5838
Circuit Schematics
Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show
current flow, from power at the top of the diagram, to ground at the bottom.
Shared Circuits
Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that
connects one circuit to another, for example, is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it
pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or
component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring, check the operation of a
component it serves. If that component works, you know the shared wiring is OK.
Connectors
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> Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5839
All in-line and junction connectors are numbered (C725, C416, etc.). Component connectors are
not numbered but are identified either by the name of the component if the component only has
one connector, or by a capital letter (A, B, C, etc.) if the component has more than one connector.
Below most connector numbers and component names are PHOTO and VIEW numbers. The
PHOTO number refers to a photo at Vehicle Level Locations that shows the connector's location on
the car. The VIEW number refers to an connector view at the Vehicle Level Connector Views that
shows the connector terminals, wire colors, connector cavity numbers, and other details.
The connector cavity numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector as seen
from either of the viewpoints. Except for the DLC (data link connector), disregard any numbers
molded into the connector housing.
Wires
Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the
stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number "2" next to the male
and female wire terminals at C554, for example, means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector
C554.
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the vehicle. Refer to the Power Distribution Diagram Set to get a more detailed
understanding of how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on. Individual circuit
schematics begin with a fuse. So if Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another
circuit share a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good
and power is available to the inoperative circuit.
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share the same
ground point.
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> Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5842
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> Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5843
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> Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5844
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> Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5845
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> Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5846
How to Identify Connector Terminals
Connector terminals are numbered according to the cavities they are in. The cavities are numbered
starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side or looking at the
female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the
same. All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not
the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the
connector face.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Auxiliary Power Outlet > Component Information > Diagrams
> Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5847
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown above is #6.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Auxiliary Power Outlet > Component Information > Diagrams
> Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5848
The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice
connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for
all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement
terminal availability.
On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged,
replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If
any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it.
Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the
wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the
terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to
make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a
factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS.
Use the tools from Pin Tool Set. First, check the connector that you are about to repair.
- If it has a secondary terminal lock, go to Connectors With a Secondary Lock. A secondary lock,
found on most connectors on some models, is an additional locking device on the connector
housing as a backup for the primary lock on the terminal.
- If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock.
All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the
secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the
connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities.
EXAMPLE A:
EXAMPLE B:
EXAMPLE C:
EXAMPLE D:
2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW
TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE E:
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> Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5852
1. Remove the secondary locks.
2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW
TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE F:
3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of
connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary
in size and shape.
EXAMPLE A:
EXAMPLE B:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
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> Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5854
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE C:
EXAMPLE D:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Auxiliary Power Outlet > Component Information > Diagrams
> Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5855
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE E:
EXAMPLE F:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Auxiliary Power Outlet > Component Information > Diagrams
> Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5856
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE G:
1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct
replacement terminal based on the wire size range
NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part
number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available
through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures.
2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool.
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> Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5857
3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the
wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from
the kit.)
NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did,
cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again.
4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the
anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown
in step 3.
6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact.
- If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool
over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the
stops make contact.
- If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully
squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape.
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> Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5858
8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the following NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and
start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the
way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure
10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector.
Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too
short or when access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair.
On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged,
replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If
any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it.
1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from
Pin Tool Set.
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> Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5859
2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal,
then strip about half of the insulation off that piece.
This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal.
NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will
not nick or cut off any strands of wires.
3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and
same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit
onto the stripped end of the original wire.
5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the
pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more
than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at
the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the
harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make
each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail.
7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends
of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue
NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the
stripper.
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> Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5860
8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the
flare begins), and close the crimper handles far
enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click,
squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open.
9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the
wire all the way into the splice connector, and
squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until
the ratchet clicks again.
10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After
crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the
connector.
12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire(s), and shield them with
nonflammable material.
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> Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5861
13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the
gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat
evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete
when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube.
NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun.
Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the
wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size)
splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select
the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in
quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures.
Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the
Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching
connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body.
1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector.
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> Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5862
2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool.
NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal
because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit.
3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal
with a replacement terminal from the appropriate
Five-Step Troubleshooting
Five-Step Troubleshooting
Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint.
Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
problem area.
Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by
tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground (certain
circuits contain a "How the Circuit Works" Diagram set). Also, trace circuits that share wiring with
the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on,
are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step
1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used
only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely
cause.
Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more
possible causes.
Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple
procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to
make tests at points that are easily accessible.
Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe
procedures.
Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire
problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure
no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur.
Test Equipment
Test Equipment
CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
1O-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up
of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to
various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is
voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital
volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is
between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM).
In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low
resistance means good continuity.
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> Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5863
Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a
reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is
affecting the measurement.
To order any test equipment shown, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool
numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin.
Jumper Wire
Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder
connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire
across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse.
To order any test equipment shown, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool
numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin.
Troubleshooting Precautions
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION: -
Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
- Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles.
2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part
Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place.
CAUTION: -
Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
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> Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5864
- Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-mega
ohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that
contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
Troubleshooting Tests
Troubleshooting Tests
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt
ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest
"OHMS" range.
2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you
want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end.
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> Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5865
4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or
no reading (zero), means good continuity.
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem. Circuits must be operating when checking
voltage drop.
1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts
range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage
is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM
voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
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> Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5866
138. Accessory Power Socket Relay, Front, Accessory Power Socket Relay, Rear (EX, Si) Or
Injector Control Module Relay (GX)
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> Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5867
Auxiliary Power Outlet: Electrical Diagrams
Wiring Diagrams
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> Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5868
Diagram 155-0
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> Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5869
Diagram 155-1
Diagrams: Other diagrams referred to by number (See Diagram ##-#, etc.) within these diagrams
can be found at Diagrams by Number. See: Diagrams/Electrical Diagrams/Diagrams By Number
Locations: Location photographs (references to PHOTOS) referred to within these diagrams can be
found at Locations by Photo Number. See: Locations/Component Locations/Locations By Photo
Number
Connector Views: Connector terminal views (references to VIEWS) referred to within these
diagrams can be found at Connector Views by View Number. See: Diagrams/Connector
Views/Connector Views By View Number
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Auxiliary Power Outlet > Component Information > Testing
and Inspection > Power Relay Test
Auxiliary Power Outlet: Testing and Inspection Power Relay Test
Use this chart to identify the type of relay, then do the test listed for it.
Normally-open type
- There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when battery positive terminal
is connected to the No. 4 terminal, and battery negative terminal is connected to the No. 3 terminal.
- There should be no continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power is
disconnected.
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and Inspection > Power Relay Test > Page 5872
Auxiliary Power Outlet: Testing and Inspection Front Accessory Power Socket Test/Replacement
NOTE: If both of the front and rear accessory power sockets do not work, check the No. 35 (7.5 A)
fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box.
- With Audio.
- With Navigation.
2. Disconnect the 2P connector (A) from the front accessory power socket (B).
3. Inspect the connector terminals to be sure they are all making good contact.
- If the terminals are bent, loose, or corroded, repair them as necessary and recheck the system.
4. Turn the ignition switch to ACC (I). 5. Measure the voltage between the power accessory socket
2P connector No. 1 terminal and body ground. There should be battery voltage.
6. Check for continuity between the No. 2 terminal and body ground. There should be continuity.
NOTE: If both of the front and rear accessory power sockets do not work, check the No. 35 (7.5 A)
fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box.
1. Remove the center console. 2. Disconnect the 2P connector (A) from the rear accessory power
socket (B).
3. Inspect the connector terminals to be sure they are all making good contact.
- If the terminals are bent, loose, or corroded, repair them as necessary and recheck the system.
4. Turn the ignition switch to ACC (I), and measure the voltage between the No. 1 terminal and
body ground. There should be battery voltage.
5. Check for continuity between the No. 2 terminal and body ground. There should be continuity.
NOTE: If both of the front and rear accessory power sockets do not work, check the No. 35 (7.5 A)
fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box.
- With Audio.
- With Navigation.
2. Disconnect the 2P connector (A) from the front accessory power socket (B).
3. Inspect the connector terminals to be sure they are all making good contact.
- If the terminals are bent, loose, or corroded, repair them as necessary and recheck the system.
4. Turn the ignition switch to ACC (I). 5. Measure the voltage between the power accessory socket
2P connector No. 1 terminal and body ground. There should be battery voltage.
6. Check for continuity between the No. 2 terminal and body ground. There should be continuity.
Circuit Schematics
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Information and Instructions > Page 5891
Circuit Schematics
Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show
current flow, from power at the top of the diagram, to ground at the bottom.
Shared Circuits
Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that
connects one circuit to another, for example, is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it
pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or
component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring, check the operation of a
component it serves. If that component works, you know the shared wiring is OK.
Connectors
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All in-line and junction connectors are numbered (C725, C416, etc.). Component connectors are
not numbered but are identified either by the name of the component if the component only has
one connector, or by a capital letter (A, B, C, etc.) if the component has more than one connector.
Below most connector numbers and component names are PHOTO and VIEW numbers. The
PHOTO number refers to a photo at Vehicle Level Locations that shows the connector's location on
the car. The VIEW number refers to an connector view at the Vehicle Level Connector Views that
shows the connector terminals, wire colors, connector cavity numbers, and other details.
The connector cavity numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector as seen
from either of the viewpoints. Except for the DLC (data link connector), disregard any numbers
molded into the connector housing.
Wires
Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the
stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number "2" next to the male
and female wire terminals at C554, for example, means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector
C554.
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the vehicle. Refer to the Power Distribution Diagram Set to get a more detailed
understanding of how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on. Individual circuit
schematics begin with a fuse. So if Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another
circuit share a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good
and power is available to the inoperative circuit.
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share the same
ground point.
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How to Identify Connector Terminals
Connector terminals are numbered according to the cavities they are in. The cavities are numbered
starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side or looking at the
female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the
same. All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not
the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the
connector face.
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Information and Instructions > Page 5900
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown above is #6.
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Information and Instructions > Page 5901
The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice
connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for
all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement
terminal availability.
On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged,
replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If
any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it.
Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the
wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the
terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to
make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a
factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS.
Use the tools from Pin Tool Set. First, check the connector that you are about to repair.
- If it has a secondary terminal lock, go to Connectors With a Secondary Lock. A secondary lock,
found on most connectors on some models, is an additional locking device on the connector
housing as a backup for the primary lock on the terminal.
- If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock.
All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the
secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the
connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities.
EXAMPLE A:
EXAMPLE B:
EXAMPLE C:
EXAMPLE D:
2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW
TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE E:
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Fuse > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 5905
1. Remove the secondary locks.
2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW
TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE F:
3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of
connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary
in size and shape.
EXAMPLE A:
EXAMPLE B:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Fuse > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 5907
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE C:
EXAMPLE D:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Fuse > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 5908
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE E:
EXAMPLE F:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Fuse > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 5909
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE G:
1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct
replacement terminal based on the wire size range
NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part
number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available
through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures.
2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool.
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Information and Instructions > Page 5910
3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the
wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from
the kit.)
NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did,
cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again.
4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the
anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown
in step 3.
6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact.
- If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool
over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the
stops make contact.
- If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully
squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape.
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Information and Instructions > Page 5911
8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the following NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and
start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the
way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure
10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector.
Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too
short or when access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair.
On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged,
replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If
any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it.
1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from
Pin Tool Set.
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Information and Instructions > Page 5912
2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal,
then strip about half of the insulation off that piece.
This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal.
NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will
not nick or cut off any strands of wires.
3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and
same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit
onto the stripped end of the original wire.
5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the
pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more
than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at
the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the
harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make
each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail.
7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends
of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue
NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the
stripper.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Fuse > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 5913
8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the
flare begins), and close the crimper handles far
enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click,
squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open.
9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the
wire all the way into the splice connector, and
squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until
the ratchet clicks again.
10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After
crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the
connector.
12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire(s), and shield them with
nonflammable material.
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Information and Instructions > Page 5914
13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the
gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat
evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete
when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube.
NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun.
Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the
wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size)
splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select
the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in
quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures.
Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the
Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching
connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body.
1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector.
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Information and Instructions > Page 5915
2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool.
NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal
because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit.
3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal
with a replacement terminal from the appropriate
Five-Step Troubleshooting
Five-Step Troubleshooting
Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint.
Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
problem area.
Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by
tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground (certain
circuits contain a "How the Circuit Works" Diagram set). Also, trace circuits that share wiring with
the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on,
are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step
1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used
only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely
cause.
Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more
possible causes.
Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple
procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to
make tests at points that are easily accessible.
Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe
procedures.
Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire
problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure
no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur.
Test Equipment
Test Equipment
CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
1O-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up
of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to
various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is
voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital
volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is
between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM).
In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low
resistance means good continuity.
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Information and Instructions > Page 5916
Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a
reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is
affecting the measurement.
To order any test equipment shown, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool
numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin.
Jumper Wire
Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder
connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire
across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse.
To order any test equipment shown, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool
numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin.
Troubleshooting Precautions
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION: -
Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
- Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles.
2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part
Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place.
CAUTION: -
Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
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Information and Instructions > Page 5917
- Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-mega
ohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that
contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
Troubleshooting Tests
Troubleshooting Tests
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt
ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest
"OHMS" range.
2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you
want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end.
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Information and Instructions > Page 5918
4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or
no reading (zero), means good continuity.
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem. Circuits must be operating when checking
voltage drop.
1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts
range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage
is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM
voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Fuse > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 5919
66. Remote Starting System In-line Fuse (Honda Accessory: Canada A/T)
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Fuse > Component Information > Application and ID >
Under-Dash Fuse/Relay Box
Fuse: Application and ID Under-Dash Fuse/Relay Box
Circuit Schematics
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Fuse Block > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 5949
Circuit Schematics
Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show
current flow, from power at the top of the diagram, to ground at the bottom.
Shared Circuits
Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that
connects one circuit to another, for example, is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it
pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or
component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring, check the operation of a
component it serves. If that component works, you know the shared wiring is OK.
Connectors
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Fuse Block > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 5950
All in-line and junction connectors are numbered (C725, C416, etc.). Component connectors are
not numbered but are identified either by the name of the component if the component only has
one connector, or by a capital letter (A, B, C, etc.) if the component has more than one connector.
Below most connector numbers and component names are PHOTO and VIEW numbers. The
PHOTO number refers to a photo at Vehicle Level Locations that shows the connector's location on
the car. The VIEW number refers to an connector view at the Vehicle Level Connector Views that
shows the connector terminals, wire colors, connector cavity numbers, and other details.
The connector cavity numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector as seen
from either of the viewpoints. Except for the DLC (data link connector), disregard any numbers
molded into the connector housing.
Wires
Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the
stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number "2" next to the male
and female wire terminals at C554, for example, means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector
C554.
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the vehicle. Refer to the Power Distribution Diagram Set to get a more detailed
understanding of how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on. Individual circuit
schematics begin with a fuse. So if Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another
circuit share a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good
and power is available to the inoperative circuit.
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share the same
ground point.
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Information and Instructions > Page 5955
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Information and Instructions > Page 5956
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Fuse Block > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 5957
How to Identify Connector Terminals
Connector terminals are numbered according to the cavities they are in. The cavities are numbered
starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side or looking at the
female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the
same. All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not
the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the
connector face.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Fuse Block > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 5958
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown above is #6.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Fuse Block > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 5959
The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice
connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for
all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement
terminal availability.
On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged,
replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If
any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it.
Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the
wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the
terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to
make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a
factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS.
Use the tools from Pin Tool Set. First, check the connector that you are about to repair.
- If it has a secondary terminal lock, go to Connectors With a Secondary Lock. A secondary lock,
found on most connectors on some models, is an additional locking device on the connector
housing as a backup for the primary lock on the terminal.
- If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock.
All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the
secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the
connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities.
EXAMPLE A:
EXAMPLE B:
EXAMPLE C:
EXAMPLE D:
2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW
TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE E:
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Fuse Block > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 5963
1. Remove the secondary locks.
2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW
TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE F:
3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of
connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary
in size and shape.
EXAMPLE A:
EXAMPLE B:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Fuse Block > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 5965
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE C:
EXAMPLE D:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Fuse Block > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 5966
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE E:
EXAMPLE F:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Fuse Block > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 5967
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE G:
1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct
replacement terminal based on the wire size range
NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part
number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available
through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures.
2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool.
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Information and Instructions > Page 5968
3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the
wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from
the kit.)
NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did,
cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again.
4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the
anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown
in step 3.
6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact.
- If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool
over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the
stops make contact.
- If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully
squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Fuse Block > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 5969
8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the following NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and
start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the
way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure
10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector.
Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too
short or when access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair.
On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged,
replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If
any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it.
1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from
Pin Tool Set.
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Information and Instructions > Page 5970
2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal,
then strip about half of the insulation off that piece.
This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal.
NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will
not nick or cut off any strands of wires.
3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and
same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit
onto the stripped end of the original wire.
5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the
pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more
than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at
the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the
harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make
each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail.
7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends
of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue
NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the
stripper.
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Information and Instructions > Page 5971
8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the
flare begins), and close the crimper handles far
enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click,
squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open.
9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the
wire all the way into the splice connector, and
squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until
the ratchet clicks again.
10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After
crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the
connector.
12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire(s), and shield them with
nonflammable material.
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13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the
gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat
evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete
when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube.
NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun.
Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the
wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size)
splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select
the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in
quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures.
Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the
Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching
connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body.
1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector.
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2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool.
NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal
because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit.
3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal
with a replacement terminal from the appropriate
Five-Step Troubleshooting
Five-Step Troubleshooting
Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint.
Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
problem area.
Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by
tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground (certain
circuits contain a "How the Circuit Works" Diagram set). Also, trace circuits that share wiring with
the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on,
are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step
1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used
only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely
cause.
Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more
possible causes.
Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple
procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to
make tests at points that are easily accessible.
Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe
procedures.
Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire
problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure
no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur.
Test Equipment
Test Equipment
CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
1O-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up
of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to
various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is
voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital
volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is
between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM).
In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low
resistance means good continuity.
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Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a
reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is
affecting the measurement.
To order any test equipment shown, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool
numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin.
Jumper Wire
Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder
connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire
across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse.
To order any test equipment shown, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool
numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin.
Troubleshooting Precautions
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION: -
Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
- Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles.
2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part
Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place.
CAUTION: -
Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
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- Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-mega
ohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that
contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
Troubleshooting Tests
Troubleshooting Tests
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt
ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest
"OHMS" range.
2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you
want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end.
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4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or
no reading (zero), means good continuity.
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem. Circuits must be operating when checking
voltage drop.
1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts
range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage
is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM
voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
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Removal
1. Make sure you have the anti-theft code for the audio system or the navigation system (if
equipped), then write down the audio presets. 2. Make sure the ignition switch is OFF. 3.
Disconnect the negative battery cable, then disconnect the positive cable, and wait at least 3
minutes. 4. Remove the screws (A) for the alternator and battery cable terminals from the
under-hood fuse/relay box.
5. Remove the bottom cover from the under-hood fuse/relay box. 6. Disconnect the connectors
from the under-hood fuse/relay box. 7. Carefully remove the relays by prying under the base of the
relay.
NOTE: Do not use pliers. Pliers will damage the relays, which could cause the engine to stall or not
start.
Installation
1. Install the relays and connect the connectors to the under-hood fuse/relay box, then install the
under-hood fuse/relay box in the reverse order of
removal.
2. Install the removed parts in the reverse order of removal. 3. Connect the positive cable to the
battery, then connect the negative cable to the battery. 4. Enter the anti-theft code for the audio
system or the navigation system (if equipped), then enter the audio presets. Set the clock (on
vehicles
without navigation).
SRS components are located in this area. Review the SRS component locations and precautions
and procedures before performing repairs or servicing.
Removal
1. Make sure you have the anti-theft code for the audio system or the navigation system (if
equipped), then write down the audio presets. 2. Make sure the ignition switch is OFF. 3.
Disconnect the negative battery cable, then disconnect the positive cable, and wait at least 3
minutes. 4. Remove the driver's dashboard lower cover. 5. Disconnect the connectors from the
fuse side of the under-dash fuse/relay box (A).
6. Remove the mounting bolt, and pull the fuse/relay box away from the body. 7. Disconnect the
connectors from the back side of the under-dash fuse/relay box, then remove the under-dash
fuse/relay box. 8. Carefully remove the relays by prying under the base of the relay.
NOTE: Do not use pliers. Pliers will damage the relays, which could cause the engine to stall or not
start.
Installation
1. Install the relays and connect the connectors to the under-dash fuse/relay box, then install the
under-dash fuse/relay box in the reverse order of
removal.
2. Install the removed parts in the reverse order of removal. 3. Connect the positive cable to the
battery, then connect the negative cable to the battery. 4. Register the immobilizer system with the
HDS.
NOTE: The imoes unit is built into the MICU which is part of the under-dash fuse/relay box.
Because of this construction, the imoes must be registered, or the vehicle will not start.
5. Enter the anti-theft code for the audio system or the navigation system (if equipped), then enter
the audio presets. Set the clock (on vehicles
without navigation).
Multiple Junction Connector: Service and Repair How to Replace Connector Terminals
The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice
connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for
all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement
terminal availability.
On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged,
replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If
any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it.
Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the
wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the
terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to
make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a
factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS.
Use the tools from Pin Tool Set. First, check the connector that you are about to repair.
- If it has a secondary terminal lock, go to Connectors With a Secondary Lock. A secondary lock,
found on most connectors on some models, is an additional locking device on the connector
housing as a backup for the primary lock on the terminal.
- If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock.
All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the
secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the
connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities.
EXAMPLE A:
EXAMPLE B:
EXAMPLE C:
EXAMPLE D:
2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW
TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE E:
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1. Remove the secondary locks.
2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW
TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE F:
3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of
connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary
in size and shape.
EXAMPLE A:
EXAMPLE B:
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1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE C:
EXAMPLE D:
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Service and Repair > How to Replace Connector Terminals > Page 6012
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE E:
EXAMPLE F:
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Service and Repair > How to Replace Connector Terminals > Page 6013
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE G:
1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct
replacement terminal based on the wire size range
NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part
number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available
through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures.
2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool.
3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the
wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from
the kit.)
NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did,
cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again.
4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the
anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown
in step 3.
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6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact.
- If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool
over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the
stops make contact.
- If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully
squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape.
8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the following NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and
start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the
way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure
10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector.
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Multiple Junction Connector: Service and Repair How to Install Pigtail Terminals
Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too
short or when access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair.
On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged,
replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If
any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it.
1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from
Pin Tool Set.
2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal,
then strip about half of the insulation off that piece.
This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal.
NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will
not nick or cut off any strands of wires.
3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and
same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit
onto the stripped end of the original wire.
5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the
pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more
than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at
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the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the
harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make
each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail.
7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends
of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue
NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the
stripper.
8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the
flare begins), and close the crimper handles far
enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click,
squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open.
9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the
wire all the way into the splice connector, and
squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until
the ratchet clicks again.
10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After
crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the
connector.
12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire(s), and shield them with
nonflammable material.
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13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the
gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat
evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete
when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube.
NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun.
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Service and Repair > How to Replace Connector Terminals > Page 6019
Multiple Junction Connector: Service and Repair Pigtail Terminal Selection Chart
Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the
wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size)
splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select
the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in
quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures.
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Multiple Junction Connector: Service and Repair Checking For Poor Fit Terminals
Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the
Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching
connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body.
1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector.
2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool.
NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal
because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit.
3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal
with a replacement terminal from the appropriate
Removal
1. Make sure you have the anti-theft code for the audio system or the navigation system (if
equipped), then write down the audio presets. 2. Make sure the ignition switch is OFF. 3.
Disconnect the negative battery cable, then disconnect the positive cable, and wait at least 3
minutes. 4. Remove the screws (A) for the alternator and battery cable terminals from the
under-hood fuse/relay box.
5. Remove the bottom cover from the under-hood fuse/relay box. 6. Disconnect the connectors
from the under-hood fuse/relay box. 7. Carefully remove the relays by prying under the base of the
relay.
NOTE: Do not use pliers. Pliers will damage the relays, which could cause the engine to stall or not
start.
Installation
1. Install the relays and connect the connectors to the under-hood fuse/relay box, then install the
under-hood fuse/relay box in the reverse order of
removal.
2. Install the removed parts in the reverse order of removal. 3. Connect the positive cable to the
battery, then connect the negative cable to the battery. 4. Enter the anti-theft code for the audio
system or the navigation system (if equipped), then enter the audio presets. Set the clock (on
vehicles
without navigation).
SRS components are located in this area. Review the SRS component locations and precautions
and procedures before performing repairs or servicing.
Removal
1. Make sure you have the anti-theft code for the audio system or the navigation system (if
equipped), then write down the audio presets. 2. Make sure the ignition switch is OFF. 3.
Disconnect the negative battery cable, then disconnect the positive cable, and wait at least 3
minutes. 4. Remove the driver's dashboard lower cover. 5. Disconnect the connectors from the
fuse side of the under-dash fuse/relay box (A).
6. Remove the mounting bolt, and pull the fuse/relay box away from the body. 7. Disconnect the
connectors from the back side of the under-dash fuse/relay box, then remove the under-dash
fuse/relay box. 8. Carefully remove the relays by prying under the base of the relay.
NOTE: Do not use pliers. Pliers will damage the relays, which could cause the engine to stall or not
start.
Installation
1. Install the relays and connect the connectors to the under-dash fuse/relay box, then install the
under-dash fuse/relay box in the reverse order of
removal.
2. Install the removed parts in the reverse order of removal. 3. Connect the positive cable to the
battery, then connect the negative cable to the battery. 4. Register the immobilizer system with the
HDS.
NOTE: The imoes unit is built into the MICU which is part of the under-dash fuse/relay box.
Because of this construction, the imoes must be registered, or the vehicle will not start.
5. Enter the anti-theft code for the audio system or the navigation system (if equipped), then enter
the audio presets. Set the clock (on vehicles
without navigation).
Removal
1. Make sure you have the anti-theft code for the audio system or the navigation system (if
equipped), then write down the audio presets. 2. Make sure the ignition switch is OFF. 3.
Disconnect the negative battery cable, then disconnect the positive cable, and wait at least 3
minutes. 4. Remove the screws (A) for the alternator and battery cable terminals from the
under-hood fuse/relay box.
5. Remove the bottom cover from the under-hood fuse/relay box. 6. Disconnect the connectors
from the under-hood fuse/relay box. 7. Carefully remove the relays by prying under the base of the
relay.
NOTE: Do not use pliers. Pliers will damage the relays, which could cause the engine to stall or not
start.
Installation
1. Install the relays and connect the connectors to the under-hood fuse/relay box, then install the
under-hood fuse/relay box in the reverse order of
removal.
2. Install the removed parts in the reverse order of removal. 3. Connect the positive cable to the
battery, then connect the negative cable to the battery. 4. Enter the anti-theft code for the audio
system or the navigation system (if equipped), then enter the audio presets. Set the clock (on
vehicles
without navigation).
SRS components are located in this area. Review the SRS component locations and precautions
and procedures before performing repairs or servicing.
Removal
1. Make sure you have the anti-theft code for the audio system or the navigation system (if
equipped), then write down the audio presets. 2. Make sure the ignition switch is OFF. 3.
Disconnect the negative battery cable, then disconnect the positive cable, and wait at least 3
minutes. 4. Remove the driver's dashboard lower cover. 5. Disconnect the connectors from the
fuse side of the under-dash fuse/relay box (A).
6. Remove the mounting bolt, and pull the fuse/relay box away from the body. 7. Disconnect the
connectors from the back side of the under-dash fuse/relay box, then remove the under-dash
fuse/relay box. 8. Carefully remove the relays by prying under the base of the relay.
NOTE: Do not use pliers. Pliers will damage the relays, which could cause the engine to stall or not
start.
Installation
1. Install the relays and connect the connectors to the under-dash fuse/relay box, then install the
under-dash fuse/relay box in the reverse order of
removal.
2. Install the removed parts in the reverse order of removal. 3. Connect the positive cable to the
battery, then connect the negative cable to the battery. 4. Register the immobilizer system with the
HDS.
NOTE: The imoes unit is built into the MICU which is part of the under-dash fuse/relay box.
Because of this construction, the imoes must be registered, or the vehicle will not start.
5. Enter the anti-theft code for the audio system or the navigation system (if equipped), then enter
the audio presets. Set the clock (on vehicles
without navigation).
06-068
May 2, 2009
*Vehicle Pulls or Drifts, and/or Steering Wheel Is Off-Center (Supersedes 06-068, Vehicle Pulling
or Drifting, dated October 4, 2007, to revise the information marked by asterisks) (Replaces
90-011, Steering Wheel Off-Center Adjustment at PDI)*
*REVISION SUMMARY
SYMPTOM
While driving on a straight road, the vehicle pulls or drifts to the right or left.
BACKGROUND
New tools were developed to help you diagnose and correct a pulling and/or steering wheel
off-center issue. There is a diagnosis worksheet included to take on your test-drive and record your
findings. These values are used to build the 15-digit DTC (diagnostic trouble code) that is required
for your warranty claim. The last step in each repair procedure helps you create the correct code.
In the rare case that you have to repair a vehicle that pulls and has the steering wheel off-center,
use REPAIR PROCEDURE B to file your warranty claim.
For more information, refer to Training Module SSC 44 - Steering Drift or Pull Interactive Service
Bulletin.
PROBABLE CAUSES
^ Wheel alignment
^ Tires
^ Off-center steering wheel (no pulling or drifting, but a customer may believe this is the case)
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Diagnose the problem using the special tools and the worksheet on page 4 that guides you to one
of four repair procedures.
TOOL INFORMATION
T/N O7AAJ-001A300
T/N 07AAJ-001A400
WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION
Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request
consideration, and get a decision, before starting work.
TOOL DESCRIPTIONS
The holding force gauge measures the amount of pull on the vehicle. It is a bracket that counts as
one weight, plus five removable weights.
During the test-drive, attach the bracket and the weights to the steering wheel on the side opposite
the pulling direction. For example, if the vehicle pulls to the right, attach the bracket and weights to
the left side of the steering wheel. Start with the maximum amount of weight on the steering wheel,
and remove the weights until the vehicle drives in a straight line.
When recording the pull on the worksheet, write down the direction of the pull (lefi or right) and the
number of weights required to balance the pull (one through six). For example, if you have the
bracket and two weights on the steering wheel, then record this as three weights.
NOTE:
^ Park the vehicle on a level surface, such as an alignment rack, and calibrate the gauge by
moving the gauge until the ball is on the zero mark.
^ If you do not have a perfectly flat surface, park the vehicle on a reasonably flat surface and note
the gauge reading. Turn the vehicle 1800 and, with the tires in the same spot, note the new gauge
reading. Then move the gauge half of the difference. For example, if your first reading is +3 and,
after moving the vehicle, the gauge reads -1, then the difference is 4 degrees. Position the gauge
to read +1.
NOTE:
You must calibrate the gauge with the same weight in the vehicle that you will use for the test-drive.
If you plan to have an assistant help you during the test-drive, calibrate the gauge while both of you
are sitting in the vehicle.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Customer Interest for Alignment: > 06-068 > May > 09 > Steering/Suspension - Vehicle Pulls Left/Right > Page 6113
The steering wheel offset gauge is a sticker that attaches to the steering wheel and the steering
column cover. Place the sticker on the steering wheel when the steering wheel is straight. When
you test-drive the vehicle, you can read how many millimeters the steering wheel is off-center.
NOTE:
If the vehicle is pulling, repairing the pull may correct the steering wheel offset.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Customer Interest for Alignment: > 06-068 > May > 09 > Steering/Suspension - Vehicle Pulls Left/Right > Page 6114
DIAGNOSTIC WORKSHEET
REPAIR PROCEDURE A
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Customer Interest for Alignment: > 06-068 > May > 09 > Steering/Suspension - Vehicle Pulls Left/Right > Page 6115
NOTE:
Do this repair procedure if, after doing step 10 of the test-drive, the vehicle pulled in the opposite
direction after you swapped the front tires.
1. Swap wheels 2 and 4 on the passenger's side of the vehicle, and test-drive again.
^ If the pull goes away, replace the tire on wheel 2, then go to step 3.
^ If the pull does not go away, put wheels 2 and 4 back to their original positions, and go to step 2.
2. Swap wheels 1 and 3 on the driver's side of the vehicle, and test-drive again.
^ If the pull goes away, replace the tire on wheel 1, then go to step 3.
^ If the pull does not go away, use a known-good tire in position 1 and continue diagnosis.
3. Use your diagnosis worksheet to fill in the following table and build your 15-digit DTC.
REPAIR PROCEDURE B
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Customer Interest for Alignment: > 06-068 > May > 09 > Steering/Suspension - Vehicle Pulls Left/Right > Page 6116
1. Place the vehicle on a commercially available, computerized, four-wheel alignment rack, and
record the following measurements. Follow the
NOTE:
2. If any measurement is out of specification, inspect the front suspension for any damage. Repair
any damaged parts before continuing your diagnosis.
3. Determine how the front wheel camber is affecting the pull. Pick the combination of left- and
right-front camber that best matches the vehicle you are
repairing, then note the camber thrust direction for that combination:
NOTE:
^ If the camber of both front wheels is negative, but one wheel is grossly more negative than the
other, the camber thrust direction will be opposite the wheel with more negative camber (for
example, if the left-front wheel is more negative, the camber thrust direction is right).
^ If the camber of both front wheels is positive, but one wheel is grossly more positive than the
other, the camber thrust direction will be the same as the wheel with more positive camber (for
example, if the left-front wheel is more positive, the camber thrust direction is left).
NOTE:
The front wheels are being viewed from the rear of the vehicle.
^ Depending which way you need to shift the subframe, insert a pry bar between the subframe and
body at both the front and rear positions of the subframe.
NOTE:
Be careful not to damage the vehicle. You could bend and damage the frame and/or body if you
apply too much pressure.
^ Press on both pry bars to shift the subframe. It will move only a few millimeters. This should
adjust the camber about 0.2-0.5°.
^ While holding the subframe in place, have an assistant torque the subframe bolts to their proper
torque.
^ Adjust the camber by moving the bottom of the damper within the range of the damper pinch bolt
free play.
NOTE:
Some vehicles have special pinch bolts that allow more adjustment. For more information, refer to
the parts catalog.
^ Reinstall the front wheels and lower the vehicle. Bounce the front of the vehicle several times to
stabilize the suspension.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Customer Interest for Alignment: > 06-068 > May > 09 > Steering/Suspension - Vehicle Pulls Left/Right > Page 6118
6. Test-drive the vehicle to make sure it no longer pulls. If the steering wheel is now off-center by
more than 2 mm, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE C.
7. Use your diagnosis worksheet to fill in the following table and build your 15-digit DTC.
NOTE:
REPAIR PROCEDURE C
^ Turn the steering wheel all the way to the right until it stops.
^ Turn the steering wheel all the way to the left, and count the number of revolutions until it stops.
^ Divide the number of revolutions in half, and turn the steering wheel until it is centered. For
example, if it takes four revolutions of the steering wheel to go from lock to lock, then two turns is
centered.
^ If the steering wheel is off-center by a large amount (20 mm or more), it may not be centered on
the steering column shaft. Reinstall the steering wheel before going to step 2.
2. Place the vehicle on a lift, turn the steering wheel until it is centered, and then raise the vehicle.
3. Adjust the tie-rods. Use your measurements from question 13 of the test-drive to make your
adjustment.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Customer Interest for Alignment: > 06-068 > May > 09 > Steering/Suspension - Vehicle Pulls Left/Right > Page 6119
^ If the wheels are pointed to the right, shorten the driver's side tie-rod, and lengthen the
passenger's side.
^ If the wheels are pointed to the left, shorten the passenger's side tie-rod, and lengthen the
driver's side.
^ Each 360° turn of the tie-rod equals about 8 mm of steering wheel adjustment. For example, a
steering wheel is off-center by 4 mm with the front wheels pointed right (when the steering wheel is
centered). To correct the off-center, shorten the driver's side tie-rod by a half-turn, and lengthen the
passenger's side tie-rod by a half-turn.
4. Use your diagnosis worksheet to fill in the following table and build your 15-digit DTC.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Technical Service Bulletins for Alignment: > 06-068 > May > 09 > Steering/Suspension - Vehicle Pulls Left/Right
Alignment: All Technical Service Bulletins Steering/Suspension - Vehicle Pulls Left/Right
06-068
May 2, 2009
*Vehicle Pulls or Drifts, and/or Steering Wheel Is Off-Center (Supersedes 06-068, Vehicle Pulling
or Drifting, dated October 4, 2007, to revise the information marked by asterisks) (Replaces
90-011, Steering Wheel Off-Center Adjustment at PDI)*
*REVISION SUMMARY
SYMPTOM
While driving on a straight road, the vehicle pulls or drifts to the right or left.
BACKGROUND
New tools were developed to help you diagnose and correct a pulling and/or steering wheel
off-center issue. There is a diagnosis worksheet included to take on your test-drive and record your
findings. These values are used to build the 15-digit DTC (diagnostic trouble code) that is required
for your warranty claim. The last step in each repair procedure helps you create the correct code.
In the rare case that you have to repair a vehicle that pulls and has the steering wheel off-center,
use REPAIR PROCEDURE B to file your warranty claim.
For more information, refer to Training Module SSC 44 - Steering Drift or Pull Interactive Service
Bulletin.
PROBABLE CAUSES
^ Wheel alignment
^ Tires
^ Off-center steering wheel (no pulling or drifting, but a customer may believe this is the case)
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Diagnose the problem using the special tools and the worksheet on page 4 that guides you to one
of four repair procedures.
TOOL INFORMATION
T/N O7AAJ-001A300
T/N 07AAJ-001A400
WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION
Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request
consideration, and get a decision, before starting work.
TOOL DESCRIPTIONS
The holding force gauge measures the amount of pull on the vehicle. It is a bracket that counts as
one weight, plus five removable weights.
During the test-drive, attach the bracket and the weights to the steering wheel on the side opposite
the pulling direction. For example, if the vehicle pulls to the right, attach the bracket and weights to
the left side of the steering wheel. Start with the maximum amount of weight on the steering wheel,
and remove the weights until the vehicle drives in a straight line.
When recording the pull on the worksheet, write down the direction of the pull (lefi or right) and the
number of weights required to balance the pull (one through six). For example, if you have the
bracket and two weights on the steering wheel, then record this as three weights.
NOTE:
^ Park the vehicle on a level surface, such as an alignment rack, and calibrate the gauge by
moving the gauge until the ball is on the zero mark.
^ If you do not have a perfectly flat surface, park the vehicle on a reasonably flat surface and note
the gauge reading. Turn the vehicle 1800 and, with the tires in the same spot, note the new gauge
reading. Then move the gauge half of the difference. For example, if your first reading is +3 and,
after moving the vehicle, the gauge reads -1, then the difference is 4 degrees. Position the gauge
to read +1.
NOTE:
You must calibrate the gauge with the same weight in the vehicle that you will use for the test-drive.
If you plan to have an assistant help you during the test-drive, calibrate the gauge while both of you
are sitting in the vehicle.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Technical Service Bulletins for Alignment: > 06-068 > May > 09 > Steering/Suspension - Vehicle Pulls Left/Right > Page
6127
The steering wheel offset gauge is a sticker that attaches to the steering wheel and the steering
column cover. Place the sticker on the steering wheel when the steering wheel is straight. When
you test-drive the vehicle, you can read how many millimeters the steering wheel is off-center.
NOTE:
If the vehicle is pulling, repairing the pull may correct the steering wheel offset.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Technical Service Bulletins for Alignment: > 06-068 > May > 09 > Steering/Suspension - Vehicle Pulls Left/Right > Page
6128
DIAGNOSTIC WORKSHEET
REPAIR PROCEDURE A
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Technical Service Bulletins for Alignment: > 06-068 > May > 09 > Steering/Suspension - Vehicle Pulls Left/Right > Page
6129
NOTE:
Do this repair procedure if, after doing step 10 of the test-drive, the vehicle pulled in the opposite
direction after you swapped the front tires.
1. Swap wheels 2 and 4 on the passenger's side of the vehicle, and test-drive again.
^ If the pull goes away, replace the tire on wheel 2, then go to step 3.
^ If the pull does not go away, put wheels 2 and 4 back to their original positions, and go to step 2.
2. Swap wheels 1 and 3 on the driver's side of the vehicle, and test-drive again.
^ If the pull goes away, replace the tire on wheel 1, then go to step 3.
^ If the pull does not go away, use a known-good tire in position 1 and continue diagnosis.
3. Use your diagnosis worksheet to fill in the following table and build your 15-digit DTC.
REPAIR PROCEDURE B
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Technical Service Bulletins for Alignment: > 06-068 > May > 09 > Steering/Suspension - Vehicle Pulls Left/Right > Page
6130
1. Place the vehicle on a commercially available, computerized, four-wheel alignment rack, and
record the following measurements. Follow the
equipment manufacturer's instructions.
NOTE:
2. If any measurement is out of specification, inspect the front suspension for any damage. Repair
any damaged parts before continuing your diagnosis.
3. Determine how the front wheel camber is affecting the pull. Pick the combination of left- and
right-front camber that best matches the vehicle you are
repairing, then note the camber thrust direction for that combination:
NOTE:
^ If the camber of both front wheels is negative, but one wheel is grossly more negative than the
other, the camber thrust direction will be opposite the wheel with more negative camber (for
example, if the left-front wheel is more negative, the camber thrust direction is right).
^ If the camber of both front wheels is positive, but one wheel is grossly more positive than the
other, the camber thrust direction will be the same as the wheel with more positive camber (for
example, if the left-front wheel is more positive, the camber thrust direction is left).
The front wheels are being viewed from the rear of the vehicle.
^ Depending which way you need to shift the subframe, insert a pry bar between the subframe and
body at both the front and rear positions of the subframe.
NOTE:
Be careful not to damage the vehicle. You could bend and damage the frame and/or body if you
apply too much pressure.
^ Press on both pry bars to shift the subframe. It will move only a few millimeters. This should
adjust the camber about 0.2-0.5°.
^ While holding the subframe in place, have an assistant torque the subframe bolts to their proper
torque.
^ Adjust the camber by moving the bottom of the damper within the range of the damper pinch bolt
free play.
NOTE:
Some vehicles have special pinch bolts that allow more adjustment. For more information, refer to
the parts catalog.
^ Reinstall the front wheels and lower the vehicle. Bounce the front of the vehicle several times to
stabilize the suspension.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Technical Service Bulletins for Alignment: > 06-068 > May > 09 > Steering/Suspension - Vehicle Pulls Left/Right > Page
6132
6. Test-drive the vehicle to make sure it no longer pulls. If the steering wheel is now off-center by
more than 2 mm, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE C.
7. Use your diagnosis worksheet to fill in the following table and build your 15-digit DTC.
NOTE:
REPAIR PROCEDURE C
^ Turn the steering wheel all the way to the right until it stops.
^ Turn the steering wheel all the way to the left, and count the number of revolutions until it stops.
^ Divide the number of revolutions in half, and turn the steering wheel until it is centered. For
example, if it takes four revolutions of the steering wheel to go from lock to lock, then two turns is
centered.
^ If the steering wheel is off-center by a large amount (20 mm or more), it may not be centered on
the steering column shaft. Reinstall the steering wheel before going to step 2.
2. Place the vehicle on a lift, turn the steering wheel until it is centered, and then raise the vehicle.
3. Adjust the tie-rods. Use your measurements from question 13 of the test-drive to make your
adjustment.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Technical Service Bulletins for Alignment: > 06-068 > May > 09 > Steering/Suspension - Vehicle Pulls Left/Right > Page
6133
^ If the wheels are pointed to the right, shorten the driver's side tie-rod, and lengthen the
passenger's side.
^ If the wheels are pointed to the left, shorten the passenger's side tie-rod, and lengthen the
driver's side.
^ Each 360° turn of the tie-rod equals about 8 mm of steering wheel adjustment. For example, a
steering wheel is off-center by 4 mm with the front wheels pointed right (when the steering wheel is
centered). To correct the off-center, shorten the driver's side tie-rod by a half-turn, and lengthen the
passenger's side tie-rod by a half-turn.
4. Use your diagnosis worksheet to fill in the following table and build your 15-digit DTC.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Technical Service Bulletins for Alignment: > Page 6134
Alignment: By Symptom
06-068
May 2, 2009
*Vehicle Pulls or Drifts, and/or Steering Wheel Is Off-Center (Supersedes 06-068, Vehicle Pulling
or Drifting, dated October 4, 2007, to revise the information marked by asterisks) (Replaces
90-011, Steering Wheel Off-Center Adjustment at PDI)*
*REVISION SUMMARY
SYMPTOM
While driving on a straight road, the vehicle pulls or drifts to the right or left.
BACKGROUND
New tools were developed to help you diagnose and correct a pulling and/or steering wheel
off-center issue. There is a diagnosis worksheet included to take on your test-drive and record your
findings. These values are used to build the 15-digit DTC (diagnostic trouble code) that is required
for your warranty claim. The last step in each repair procedure helps you create the correct code.
In the rare case that you have to repair a vehicle that pulls and has the steering wheel off-center,
use REPAIR PROCEDURE B to file your warranty claim.
For more information, refer to Training Module SSC 44 - Steering Drift or Pull Interactive Service
Bulletin.
PROBABLE CAUSES
^ Wheel alignment
^ Tires
^ Off-center steering wheel (no pulling or drifting, but a customer may believe this is the case)
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Diagnose the problem using the special tools and the worksheet on page 4 that guides you to one
of four repair procedures.
TOOL INFORMATION
T/N O7AAJ-001A300
T/N 07AAJ-001A400
Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request
consideration, and get a decision, before starting work.
TOOL DESCRIPTIONS
The holding force gauge measures the amount of pull on the vehicle. It is a bracket that counts as
one weight, plus five removable weights.
During the test-drive, attach the bracket and the weights to the steering wheel on the side opposite
the pulling direction. For example, if the vehicle pulls to the right, attach the bracket and weights to
the left side of the steering wheel. Start with the maximum amount of weight on the steering wheel,
and remove the weights until the vehicle drives in a straight line.
When recording the pull on the worksheet, write down the direction of the pull (lefi or right) and the
number of weights required to balance the pull (one through six). For example, if you have the
bracket and two weights on the steering wheel, then record this as three weights.
NOTE:
^ Park the vehicle on a level surface, such as an alignment rack, and calibrate the gauge by
moving the gauge until the ball is on the zero mark.
^ If you do not have a perfectly flat surface, park the vehicle on a reasonably flat surface and note
the gauge reading. Turn the vehicle 1800 and, with the tires in the same spot, note the new gauge
reading. Then move the gauge half of the difference. For example, if your first reading is +3 and,
after moving the vehicle, the gauge reads -1, then the difference is 4 degrees. Position the gauge
to read +1.
NOTE:
You must calibrate the gauge with the same weight in the vehicle that you will use for the test-drive.
If you plan to have an assistant help you during the test-drive, calibrate the gauge while both of you
are sitting in the vehicle.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Technical Service Bulletins for Alignment: > Page 6137
The steering wheel offset gauge is a sticker that attaches to the steering wheel and the steering
column cover. Place the sticker on the steering wheel when the steering wheel is straight. When
you test-drive the vehicle, you can read how many millimeters the steering wheel is off-center.
NOTE:
If the vehicle is pulling, repairing the pull may correct the steering wheel offset.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Technical Service Bulletins for Alignment: > Page 6138
DIAGNOSTIC WORKSHEET
REPAIR PROCEDURE A
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Technical Service Bulletins for Alignment: > Page 6139
NOTE:
Do this repair procedure if, after doing step 10 of the test-drive, the vehicle pulled in the opposite
direction after you swapped the front tires.
1. Swap wheels 2 and 4 on the passenger's side of the vehicle, and test-drive again.
^ If the pull goes away, replace the tire on wheel 2, then go to step 3.
^ If the pull does not go away, put wheels 2 and 4 back to their original positions, and go to step 2.
2. Swap wheels 1 and 3 on the driver's side of the vehicle, and test-drive again.
^ If the pull goes away, replace the tire on wheel 1, then go to step 3.
^ If the pull does not go away, use a known-good tire in position 1 and continue diagnosis.
3. Use your diagnosis worksheet to fill in the following table and build your 15-digit DTC.
REPAIR PROCEDURE B
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Technical Service Bulletins for Alignment: > Page 6140
1. Place the vehicle on a commercially available, computerized, four-wheel alignment rack, and
record the following measurements. Follow the
NOTE:
2. If any measurement is out of specification, inspect the front suspension for any damage. Repair
any damaged parts before continuing your diagnosis.
3. Determine how the front wheel camber is affecting the pull. Pick the combination of left- and
right-front camber that best matches the vehicle you are
repairing, then note the camber thrust direction for that combination:
NOTE:
^ If the camber of both front wheels is negative, but one wheel is grossly more negative than the
other, the camber thrust direction will be opposite the wheel with more negative camber (for
example, if the left-front wheel is more negative, the camber thrust direction is right).
^ If the camber of both front wheels is positive, but one wheel is grossly more positive than the
other, the camber thrust direction will be the same as the wheel with more positive camber (for
example, if the left-front wheel is more positive, the camber thrust direction is left).
NOTE:
The front wheels are being viewed from the rear of the vehicle.
^ Depending which way you need to shift the subframe, insert a pry bar between the subframe and
body at both the front and rear positions of the subframe.
NOTE:
Be careful not to damage the vehicle. You could bend and damage the frame and/or body if you
apply too much pressure.
^ Press on both pry bars to shift the subframe. It will move only a few millimeters. This should
adjust the camber about 0.2-0.5°.
^ While holding the subframe in place, have an assistant torque the subframe bolts to their proper
torque.
^ Adjust the camber by moving the bottom of the damper within the range of the damper pinch bolt
free play.
NOTE:
Some vehicles have special pinch bolts that allow more adjustment. For more information, refer to
the parts catalog.
^ Reinstall the front wheels and lower the vehicle. Bounce the front of the vehicle several times to
stabilize the suspension.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Technical Service Bulletins for Alignment: > Page 6142
6. Test-drive the vehicle to make sure it no longer pulls. If the steering wheel is now off-center by
more than 2 mm, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE C.
7. Use your diagnosis worksheet to fill in the following table and build your 15-digit DTC.
NOTE:
REPAIR PROCEDURE C
^ Turn the steering wheel all the way to the right until it stops.
^ Turn the steering wheel all the way to the left, and count the number of revolutions until it stops.
^ Divide the number of revolutions in half, and turn the steering wheel until it is centered. For
example, if it takes four revolutions of the steering wheel to go from lock to lock, then two turns is
centered.
^ If the steering wheel is off-center by a large amount (20 mm or more), it may not be centered on
the steering column shaft. Reinstall the steering wheel before going to step 2.
2. Place the vehicle on a lift, turn the steering wheel until it is centered, and then raise the vehicle.
3. Adjust the tie-rods. Use your measurements from question 13 of the test-drive to make your
adjustment.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Technical Service Bulletins for Alignment: > Page 6143
^ If the wheels are pointed to the right, shorten the driver's side tie-rod, and lengthen the
passenger's side.
^ If the wheels are pointed to the left, shorten the passenger's side tie-rod, and lengthen the
driver's side.
^ Each 360° turn of the tie-rod equals about 8 mm of steering wheel adjustment. For example, a
steering wheel is off-center by 4 mm with the front wheels pointed right (when the steering wheel is
centered). To correct the off-center, shorten the driver's side tie-rod by a half-turn, and lengthen the
passenger's side tie-rod by a half-turn.
4. Use your diagnosis worksheet to fill in the following table and build your 15-digit DTC.
06-068
May 2, 2009
*Vehicle Pulls or Drifts, and/or Steering Wheel Is Off-Center (Supersedes 06-068, Vehicle Pulling
or Drifting, dated October 4, 2007, to revise the information marked by asterisks) (Replaces
90-011, Steering Wheel Off-Center Adjustment at PDI)*
*REVISION SUMMARY
SYMPTOM
While driving on a straight road, the vehicle pulls or drifts to the right or left.
BACKGROUND
New tools were developed to help you diagnose and correct a pulling and/or steering wheel
off-center issue. There is a diagnosis worksheet included to take on your test-drive and record your
findings. These values are used to build the 15-digit DTC (diagnostic trouble code) that is required
for your warranty claim. The last step in each repair procedure helps you create the correct code.
In the rare case that you have to repair a vehicle that pulls and has the steering wheel off-center,
use REPAIR PROCEDURE B to file your warranty claim.
For more information, refer to Training Module SSC 44 - Steering Drift or Pull Interactive Service
Bulletin.
PROBABLE CAUSES
^ Wheel alignment
^ Tires
^ Off-center steering wheel (no pulling or drifting, but a customer may believe this is the case)
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Diagnose the problem using the special tools and the worksheet on page 4 that guides you to one
of four repair procedures.
TOOL INFORMATION
T/N O7AAJ-001A300
T/N 07AAJ-001A400
Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request
consideration, and get a decision, before starting work.
TOOL DESCRIPTIONS
The holding force gauge measures the amount of pull on the vehicle. It is a bracket that counts as
one weight, plus five removable weights.
During the test-drive, attach the bracket and the weights to the steering wheel on the side opposite
the pulling direction. For example, if the vehicle pulls
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to the right, attach the bracket and weights to the left side of the steering wheel. Start with the
maximum amount of weight on the steering wheel, and remove the weights until the vehicle drives
in a straight line.
When recording the pull on the worksheet, write down the direction of the pull (lefi or right) and the
number of weights required to balance the pull (one through six). For example, if you have the
bracket and two weights on the steering wheel, then record this as three weights.
NOTE:
The road crown gauge measures the amount of road crown. Almost all roads have a crown to help
drain water during rainstorms. Use the suction cup to attach the road crown gauge bracket to the
vehicle in a vertical position. If necessary, bend the bracket until the gauge is vertical. Once you
attach and align the road crown gauge, calibrate the gauge to zero. There are two ways to calibrate
the gauge:
^ Park the vehicle on a level surface, such as an alignment rack, and calibrate the gauge by
moving the gauge until the ball is on the zero mark.
^ If you do not have a perfectly flat surface, park the vehicle on a reasonably flat surface and note
the gauge reading. Turn the vehicle 1800 and, with the tires in the same spot, note the new gauge
reading. Then move the gauge half of the difference. For example, if your first reading is +3 and,
after moving the vehicle, the gauge reads -1, then the difference is 4 degrees. Position the gauge
to read +1.
NOTE:
You must calibrate the gauge with the same weight in the vehicle that you will use for the test-drive.
If you plan to have an assistant help you during the test-drive, calibrate the gauge while both of you
are sitting in the vehicle.
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The steering wheel offset gauge is a sticker that attaches to the steering wheel and the steering
column cover. Place the sticker on the steering wheel when the steering wheel is straight. When
you test-drive the vehicle, you can read how many millimeters the steering wheel is off-center.
NOTE:
If the vehicle is pulling, repairing the pull may correct the steering wheel offset.
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DIAGNOSTIC WORKSHEET
REPAIR PROCEDURE A
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NOTE:
Do this repair procedure if, after doing step 10 of the test-drive, the vehicle pulled in the opposite
direction after you swapped the front tires.
1. Swap wheels 2 and 4 on the passenger's side of the vehicle, and test-drive again.
^ If the pull goes away, replace the tire on wheel 2, then go to step 3.
^ If the pull does not go away, put wheels 2 and 4 back to their original positions, and go to step 2.
2. Swap wheels 1 and 3 on the driver's side of the vehicle, and test-drive again.
^ If the pull goes away, replace the tire on wheel 1, then go to step 3.
^ If the pull does not go away, use a known-good tire in position 1 and continue diagnosis.
3. Use your diagnosis worksheet to fill in the following table and build your 15-digit DTC.
REPAIR PROCEDURE B
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1. Place the vehicle on a commercially available, computerized, four-wheel alignment rack, and
record the following measurements. Follow the
NOTE:
2. If any measurement is out of specification, inspect the front suspension for any damage. Repair
any damaged parts before continuing your diagnosis.
3. Determine how the front wheel camber is affecting the pull. Pick the combination of left- and
right-front camber that best matches the vehicle you are
repairing, then note the camber thrust direction for that combination:
NOTE:
^ If the camber of both front wheels is negative, but one wheel is grossly more negative than the
other, the camber thrust direction will be opposite the wheel with more negative camber (for
example, if the left-front wheel is more negative, the camber thrust direction is right).
^ If the camber of both front wheels is positive, but one wheel is grossly more positive than the
other, the camber thrust direction will be the same as the wheel with more positive camber (for
example, if the left-front wheel is more positive, the camber thrust direction is left).
NOTE:
The front wheels are being viewed from the rear of the vehicle.
^ Depending which way you need to shift the subframe, insert a pry bar between the subframe and
body at both the front and rear positions of the subframe.
NOTE:
Be careful not to damage the vehicle. You could bend and damage the frame and/or body if you
apply too much pressure.
^ Press on both pry bars to shift the subframe. It will move only a few millimeters. This should
adjust the camber about 0.2-0.5°.
^ While holding the subframe in place, have an assistant torque the subframe bolts to their proper
torque.
^ Adjust the camber by moving the bottom of the damper within the range of the damper pinch bolt
free play.
NOTE:
Some vehicles have special pinch bolts that allow more adjustment. For more information, refer to
the parts catalog.
^ Reinstall the front wheels and lower the vehicle. Bounce the front of the vehicle several times to
stabilize the suspension.
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6. Test-drive the vehicle to make sure it no longer pulls. If the steering wheel is now off-center by
more than 2 mm, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE C.
7. Use your diagnosis worksheet to fill in the following table and build your 15-digit DTC.
NOTE:
REPAIR PROCEDURE C
^ Turn the steering wheel all the way to the right until it stops.
^ Turn the steering wheel all the way to the left, and count the number of revolutions until it stops.
^ Divide the number of revolutions in half, and turn the steering wheel until it is centered. For
example, if it takes four revolutions of the steering wheel to go from lock to lock, then two turns is
centered.
^ If the steering wheel is off-center by a large amount (20 mm or more), it may not be centered on
the steering column shaft. Reinstall the steering wheel before going to step 2.
2. Place the vehicle on a lift, turn the steering wheel until it is centered, and then raise the vehicle.
3. Adjust the tie-rods. Use your measurements from question 13 of the test-drive to make your
adjustment.
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^ If the wheels are pointed to the right, shorten the driver's side tie-rod, and lengthen the
passenger's side.
^ If the wheels are pointed to the left, shorten the passenger's side tie-rod, and lengthen the
driver's side.
^ Each 360° turn of the tie-rod equals about 8 mm of steering wheel adjustment. For example, a
steering wheel is off-center by 4 mm with the front wheels pointed right (when the steering wheel is
centered). To correct the off-center, shorten the driver's side tie-rod by a half-turn, and lengthen the
passenger's side tie-rod by a half-turn.
4. Use your diagnosis worksheet to fill in the following table and build your 15-digit DTC.
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Alignment: Specifications
Alignment
Camber:
Front ....................................................................................................................................................
....................................................... 0°00' ± 30' Rear
Caster:
Front ....................................................................................................................................................
......................................................... 7°00' ± 1°
Total Toe:
Front ....................................................................................................................................................
................................ 0 ± 2 mm (0 ± 0.08 inch) Rear ............................................................................
...................................................................................... 2, +2 -1 mm (0.08, +0.08 -0.04 inch)
Inward ..................................................................................................................................................
...................................................... 40°06' ± 2° Outward .....................................................................
...................................................................................................................... 31°55' (reference)
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Suspension
Wheel Alignment
The suspension can be adjusted for front camber, front toe, and rear toe. However, each of these
adjustments are related to each other. For example, when you adjust camber, the toe will change.
Therefore, you must adjust the front wheel alignment whenever you adjust camber or toe.
Pre-Alignment Checks
For proper inspection and adjustment of the wheel alignment, do these checks:
1. Release the parking brake to avoid an incorrect measurement. 2. Make sure the suspension is
not modified. 3. Check the tire size and pressure.
Tire size: Front/Rear: P195/65R15 89H Tire pressure (at cold): Front/Rear: 210 kPa (2.1 kgf/cm2,
30 psi)
4. Check the runout of the wheels and tires. 5. Check the suspension ball joints. (Hold a tire with
your hands, and move it up and down and right and left to check for wobbling.)
6. Bounce the vehicle up and down several times to settle the suspension. 7. Check that the
steering column is set at the center tilt and telescopic position.
Caster Inspection
Use commercially available computerized four wheel alignment equipment to measure wheel
alignment (caster, camber, toe, and turning angle). Follow the equipment manufacturer's
instructions.
^ If the measurement is not within specifications, check for bent or damaged suspension
components.
Camber Inspection
Use commercially available computerized four wheel alignment equipment to measure wheel
alignment (caster, camber, toe, and turning angle). Follow the equipment manufacturer's
instructions.
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Front Camber Adjustment
The front camber can be adjusted by exchanging one or both of the damper pinch bolts with a
smaller diameter adjusting bolt. The difference between the adjusting bolt diameter and the pinch
bolt hole diameter allows for a small range of adjustment.
1. Raise the front of the vehicle, and support it with safety stands in the proper locations. 2.
Remove the front wheels. 3. Loosen the damper pinch bolts (A), and adjust the camber angle by
moving the bottom of the damper within the range of the damper pinch bolt
free play.
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4. Tighten the damper pinch bolts to the specified torque. 5. Clean the mating surfaces of the brake
disc and the inside of the wheel, then install the front wheels. 6. Lower the vehicle to the ground,
and bounce the front of the vehicle up and down several times to settle the suspension. 7. Measure
the camber angle.
8. Raise the front of the vehicle, and support it with safety stands in the proper locations. 9.
Remove the front wheels.
10. Replace the damper pinch bolts with the adjusting bolts (A), and adjust the camber angle.
11. Tighten the adjusting bolts to the specified torque value. 12. Clean the mating surfaces of the
brake disc and the inside of the wheel, then install the front wheels. 13. Lower the vehicle to the
ground, and bounce the front of the vehicle up and down several times to settle the suspension. 14.
Measure the camber angle. If the camber angle is not within specification, repeat steps 8 through
13 to readjust the camber angle. If the camber
1. Set the steering column to the center tilt and center telescopic position, then center the steering
wheel spokes, and install a steering wheel holder
tool.
3. Loosen the tie-rod locknuts (A) while holding the flat surface sections (B) of the tie-rod end with a
wrench, and turn both tie-rods (C) until the
Use commercially available computerized four wheel alignment equipment to measure wheel
alignment (caster, camber, toe, and turning angle). Follow the equipment manufacturer's
instructions.
1. Release the parking brake to avoid an incorrect measurement. 2. Check the toe.
3. Hold the adjusting bolt (A) on the trailing arm (B), and remove the self-locking nut (C).
4. Replace the self-locking nut with a new one, and lightly tighten it.
NOTE: ^
^ Reassemble the adjusting bolt and the adjusting cam plate with the eccentric facing up.
5. Adjust the rear toe by turning the adjusting bolt until the toe is correct. 6. Tighten the self-locking
nut while holding the adjusting bolt.
Use commercially available computerized four wheel alignment equipment to measure wheel
alignment (caster, camber, toe, and turning angle). Follow the equipment manufacturer's
instructions.
1. Turn the wheel right and left while applying the brakes, and measure the turning angle of both
wheels.
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2. If the turning angle is not within the specifications, check for bent or damaged suspension
components.
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Modules - Wheels and Tires > Tire Pressure Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tire Monitor
System - VT55 TPMS Update Information
Tire Pressure Module: Technical Service Bulletins Tire Monitor System - VT55 TPMS Update
Information
09-070
INTRODUCTION
The software for the VT55 TPMS tool is updated periodically to add new vehicles, fix software
bugs, and enhance the tool's function. You can use the ATEQ update wizard to download software
and firmware to your VT55 using a PC and the Internet. It is extremely important to use the latest
VT55 software to ensure that the current TPMS initialization and diagnostic procedures are used.
American Honda is also introducing a new policy to ensure that VT55 tools are updated promptly.
The VT55 software must now be updated within 3 days of receiving notification of an available
update from an iN message or other Honda communication. If an out-of-date version is used, any
TPMS replacements may not be covered under warranty.
^ VT55 Tool Kit (includes VT55, AC adapter, USB cable and CD): P/N AEQVT55
P/N AEQVT555
^ Internet access
To order the VT55, or the USB connector, go to the Honda Tool and Equipment catalog on the iN
(select Service > Service Bay > Tool and Equipment > Online Catalog), or call.
SOFTWARE VERSION
To check the VT55 version software, turn on the unit and the version number appears for about 2
seconds during the startup process. If you miss it, turn the VT55 off by pressing and holding the
power switch for about 2 seconds, then turn it back on.
1. Go online to
update.ateq.com/software/webvt/update_webvt.zip
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System - VT55 TPMS Update Information > Page 6165
2. Depending on your Internet connection, the Connect to update screen may appear. If so, enter
the login and password.
Login: webvt
Password: update
3. The File Download screen appears. Select Save. The Zip file will be saved to your computer.
4. After the Zip file finishes downloading, open the update - webvt.zip file by double-clicking on it.
5. The WinZip - update - webvt.zip screen appears. Double-click the WebVT55_V4_2.exe file.
NOTE:
If you see a Compressed (Zipped) Folders Error, contact your IT person because there is a
permissions issue with your firewall.
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System - VT55 TPMS Update Information > Page 6166
6. The WinZip Caution screen appears. Select Yes.
7. If you have a previous version of the WebVT software installed on your computer, the
InstallShield Wizard gives you the option to modify, repair, or
If you have a previous software version, select Modify, then Next. After the software is modified
select Finish.
11. The InstallShield Wizard will prompt you when WebVT is installed on your computer. Select
Finish.
12. The serial emulation port driver installer screen appears. Connect your VT55, and turn it on.
Select Next.
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System - VT55 TPMS Update Information > Page 6168
13. After a few seconds, the serial emulation port driver installer prompts you when it is finished.
Select Finish.
14. If you have any problems installing the VT55 update software, call ATEQ at 734-838-3100, and
select option 2 for service.
NOTE:
^ Some screens may list the tool as VT5O or VT55. This is OK; it will not affect updating the tool.
^ If at any time during the update an error message appears, or the VT55 is not detected, see the
Standard User Guide that is on the ATEQ CD that came with the tool, or call ATEQ at
734-838-3100, and select option 2 for service.
1. Go to your desktop, and double-click the WebVT icon to launch the VT55 update software.
2. Connect the VT55 to your PC with the USB cable, then turn it on. The serial number and current
software version automatically display.
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System - VT55 TPMS Update Information > Page 6169
3. The Found New Hardware Wizard may appear. If it does, select Yes, now and every time I
connect a device, then select Next.
4. The Found New Hardware Wizard prompts you to install the ATEQ R5232 Emulation software.
Select Install the software automatically
5. The Found New Hardware Wizard will prompt you when the software is installed. Select Finish.
6. Select UPDATE DEVICE. Depending on your Internet connection, you may be prompted for a
login and password. If you know your login and
password, enter them, otherwise, contact your administrator or internet service provider for the
login and password.
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System - VT55 TPMS Update Information > Page 6170
7. If a new software version is available, you'll see a message asking if you want to update the
VT55. Select Yes.
NOTE:
Do not disconnect the VT55 during the update procedure, as you may permanently damage the
tool.
If no new software version is available, you'll see a message asking if you want to overwrite the
existing software. Select No.
8. The Dealer Identification screen appears. Enter your 6-digit dealer number, then select Apply.
9. If the dealer number is valid, your dealership's name and address appears in the dealer
information box. Select NEXT.
If the dealership number is not valid, call the American Honda Special Tools Hotline for assistance.
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System - VT55 TPMS Update Information > Page 6171
10. The VT55 begins updating. When the VT55 is finished updating, you'll see a message stating
the update is done. Disconnect the VT55, then select
OK.
11. Let the VT55 turn off (for about 1 minute). Turn it on, and confirm that the software is updated
to the software version listed under SOFTWARE
VERSION.
12. If you have more than one VT55, repeat the update procedure for each unit.
13. Once all VT55s are updated, select EXIT, and store the USB cable in a safe location for future
updates.
Disclaimer
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NOTE: Make sure the TPMS control unit mounting bracket is not bent or twisted as this may affect
its communication with the tire pressure sensors.
1. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). 2. Remove the driver's dashboard undercover. 3.
Disconnect the TPMS control unit connector (A).
4. Remove the TPMS control unit (B) from the bracket (C).
NOTE: While separating the TPMS control unit from the bracket, add in a flat-tipped screwdriver
between the TPMS control unit and the bracket at shown aria (D) to release the hook (E), and slide
out the TPMS control unit from the bracket.
5. Replace the bracket if necessary. 6. Install the TPMS control unit in the reverse order of
removal.
NOTE: Make sure the TPMS control unit is properly installed. You will hear a click when the TPMS
control unit is securely mounted on the bracket.
7. Connect the HDS, and memorize the pressure sensor IDs using the TPMS sensor initializer tool.
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Bulletins > Tire Monitor System - Usage of TPMS Sensor Tools
Tire Pressure Monitor Receiver / Transponder: Technical Service Bulletins Tire Monitor System -
Usage of TPMS Sensor Tools
06-072
(Supersedes 06-072, dated January 5, 2007, to update the information marked by the black bars
and asterisks)
*VEHICLES AFFECTED
INTRODUCTION
Beginning with some 2007 models, Honda is using a second type of TPMS (tire pressure
monitoring system) that does not use initiators like the 2006 and earlier
TPMS.
^ Are mounted on the inside of the rim, connected to the valve stem.
^ Use a wireless transmission to send tire pressure and temperature information to the TPMS unit.
^ Use non-replaceable batteries. To save battery life, the sensors turn on only when the vehicle is
being used.
*The first type of TPMS (all vehicles through 2006) uses initiators mounted above each wheel.
When you turn the ignition switch to ON (II), the initiators send out a low frequency signal to turn on
the TPMS sensors. The initiator, in conjunction with the TPMS control unit, determines the tire
location. For example, if the right front tire is low on air, the customer sees the low tire pressure
indicator and an indiction that the right front tire is low on pressure. The initiator-type TPMS, or
location-type TPMS (in the HDS), is used on the 2005-08 Pilot, the 2006-08 Ridgeline, and the
2005-08 Odyssey Touring models.*
The new TPMS does not use initiators. The TPMS sensors have a built-in acceleration sensor that
turns on the TPMS sensors when the vehicle speed reaches about 25 mph. Without an initiator, the
TPMS control unit cannot determine tire location. For example, if the right front tire is low on air, the
customer sees only the low pressure indicator and must check all four tires to find the problem tire.
During diagnosis, the TPMS control unit provides a code for each tire.
NOTE:
^ During diagnosis, the TPMS control unit gives a tire number, but you need to do the sensor
position check to find the location of the tire number.
^ Use with HDS software version 2.011.010 or later. The initiator-less TPMS, or no location-type
TPMS, is used on vehicles affected by this bulletin.
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Bulletins > Tire Monitor System - Usage of TPMS Sensor Tools > Page 6181
A TPMS sensor tool is used for troubleshooting and replacing the TPMS sensors. See TOOL
DESCRIPTION for more information.
WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION
None.
TOOL INFORMATION
TOOL DESCRIPTION
The TPMS sensor tool is a wireless tool that is used with the HDS for troubleshooting (sensor
position check) and for replacing TPMS sensors or the control unit (sensor ID learning).
General use:
^ Always make sure the TPMS sensor tool is set to low power unless otherwise instructed.
*^ Make sure there are no vehicles or other wheels with TPMS sensors within 10 feet of the vehicle
you are working on.
^ Make sure the batteries are in good condition and secure in the case. Refer to ServiceNews
article A07050D, Keep Those TPMS Sensor Tool Batteries From Popping Loose, for more
information.*
^ Turn on the TPMS sensor tool by following the HDS instructions. There are two different
wavelengths used, and there are two ways to turn on the TPMS sensor tool. If the TPMS sensor
tool is not turned on correctly, you won't be able to troubleshoot the vehicle or do the sensor ID
learning procedure.
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^ Turn off the TPMS sensor tool by pressing and holding the small button as shown until the green
light in the button turns off. The tool will also turn off after 5 minutes of inactivity.
NOTE:
Offset your finger, or use just your nail to push the buttons, so you can see the light in the buttons.
Two AC adapters are included in the TPMS sensor tool kit. The 900 AC adapter is for the battery
charger. Use the straight AC adapter to power the TPMS sensor tool when charged batteries are
not available.
NOTE:
^ The AC adapter does not charge the batteries in the TPMS sensor tool.
^ Remove the batteries from the TPMS sensor tool when using the AC adapter.
There are two ways to charge the batteries. The method to use depends on the batteries' state of
charge. For brand new or fully discharged batteries:
1. Connect the AC adapter to the charger (make sure you use the AC adapter with the 90° bend).
2. Insert the batteries into the charger. Make sure you note the polarity (direction) of the batteries.
3. Plug the charger into a power outlet. The LEDs turn red, and quick charging begins.
NOTE:
^ If the LEDs do not come on, check that the batteries are properly installed. If the LEDs still do not
come on, replace the batteries.
^ If you press the red button while the batteries are charging, the battery discharge mode begins.
Press the red button again within 30 seconds, and the charger switches back to its quick charge
mode.
^ When the LEDs turn green, the batteries are charged, and the battery charger automatically
switches to trickle charge mode.
^ Remove the batteries from the charger when it is not plugged in.
For charging batteries when you don't know the state of charge:
1. Connect the AC adapter to the charger (make sure you use the AC adapter with the 90° bend).
2. Insert the batteries into the charger. Make sure you note the polarity (direction) of the batteries.
4. Press the red button once to start the discharge mode. The LEDs blink red.
NOTE:
^ If the LEDs do not come on, check that the batteries are properly installed. If the LEDs still do not
come on, replace the batteries.
^ If you press the red button a second time within 30 seconds, the battery quick charge mode
begins.
^ Once the batteries are discharged, the LEDs turn solid red and the battery quick charge mode
begins.
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Bulletins > Tire Monitor System - Usage of TPMS Sensor Tools > Page 6183
^ When the LEDs turn green, the batteries are charged, and the battery charger automatically
switches to trickle charge mode.
^ Remove the batteries from the charger when it is not plugged in.
When the TPMS sets a DTC, it refers to Tire 1, Tire 2, Tire 3, or Tire 4. In the service manual, the
tire number is the sensor number. For example, Tire 2 is sensor 2.
However, the tire number is not the tire position. To diagnose or repair the vehicle, do the sensor
position check to find the location of the problem tire (or sensor) on the vehicle.
7. In the System Selection Menu, select TPMS, then select the Enter button.
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Modules - Wheels and Tires > Tire Pressure Monitor Receiver / Transponder > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Tire Monitor System - Usage of TPMS Sensor Tools > Page 6185
8. In the Mode menu, select Functional Tests, then select the Enter button.
9. In the Functional Test menu, select Sensor Position Check, then select the Enter button.
*10. On the Sensor Position Check screen, turn on the TPMS sensor tool by following the
on-screen instructions. (The Accord is shown on the sample
screen.)*
NOTE:
Each model is different. Turning on the TPMS sensor tool incorrectly could lead to incorrect
diagnosis and repair.
Once the TPMS sensor tool is turned on, select the YES button.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Relays and Modules - Steering and Suspension > Relays and
Modules - Wheels and Tires > Tire Pressure Monitor Receiver / Transponder > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Tire Monitor System - Usage of TPMS Sensor Tools > Page 6186
11. Follow the instructions on the Sensor Position Check screen. When prompted, go to the left
front wheel, then select the Enter button.
12. Wait about 5 seconds, and the Sensor Position Check screen changes to an operation
progress bar.
* NOTE:
^ Wait for the timer to start. When the blue bar appears, use the TPMS sensor tool.*
^ If the sensor IDs appear without the TPMS sensor tool button being pushed, a TPMS sensor is
transmitting. Select the Exit button, wait 5 minutes for the sensor to go to sleep, then follow the
on-screen prompts.
13. Point and hold the TPMS sensor tool 10 to 20 inches from the left front wheel valve stem. Press
and hold the large transmit button for up to 1 minute. The button should flash red. The TPMS
sensor tool sends a signal to the TPMS sensor to turn on and broadcast the TPMS sensor ID to the
TPMS control unit.
14. Watch for the TPMS sensor IDs to appear on the HDS screen. The TPMS control unit must
read the sensor ID five times to complete the learning
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Relays and Modules - Steering and Suspension > Relays and
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Bulletins > Tire Monitor System - Usage of TPMS Sensor Tools > Page 6187
procedure.
NOTE:
15. The TPMS sensor ID learning changes to the following screen once the procedure is complete.
Select the Enter button.
NOTE:
If the sensor does not respond (no sensor IDs are displayed), rotate the tire one-quarter turn and
try again. If the TPMS sensor does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, switch the tire to a
known-good location and try again. If the TPMS sensor still does not respond after one full rotation
of the tire, replace the TPMS sensor.
16. When prompted, go to the left rear wheel, then select the Enter button.
17. The TPMS sensor ID learning procedure goes through the same steps as the left front wheel
(see steps 12 thru 15). When the timer starts (the blue bar appears), point and hold the TPMS
sensor tool 10 to 20 inches from the left rear wheel valve stem. Press and hold the large transmit
button for up to 1 minute. The button should flash red. The TPMS sensor tool sends a signal to the
TPMS sensor to turn on and broadcast the TPMS sensor
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Relays and Modules - Steering and Suspension > Relays and
Modules - Wheels and Tires > Tire Pressure Monitor Receiver / Transponder > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Tire Monitor System - Usage of TPMS Sensor Tools > Page 6188
ID to the TPMS control unit.
NOTE:
^ If the sensor IDs appear without the TPMS sensor tool button being pushed, a TPMS sensor is
transmitting. Select the Exit button, wait 5 minutes for the sensors to go to sleep, then follow the
on-screen prompts.
^ If the sensor does not respond (no sensor IDs are displayed), rotate the tire one-quarter turn and
try again. If the TPMS sensor does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, switch the tire to a
known-good location and try again. If the TPMS sensor still does not respond after one full rotation
of the tire, replace the TPMS sensor.
18. When prompted, go to the right rear wheel, then select the Enter button.
19. The TPMS sensor ID learning procedure goes through the same steps as the left front wheel
(see steps 12 thru 15). When the timer starts (the blue bar appears), point and hold the TPMS
sensor tool 10 to 20 inches from the right rear wheel valve stem. Press and hold the large transmit
button for up to 1 minute. The button should flash red. The TPMS sensor tool sends a signal to the
TPMS sensor to turn on and broadcast the TPMS sensor ID to the TPMS control unit.
NOTE:
^ If the sensor IDs appear without the TPMS sensor tool button being pushed, a TPMS sensor is
transmitting. Select the Exit button, wait 5 minutes for the sensors to go to sleep, then follow the
on-screen prompts.
^ If the sensor does not respond (no sensor IDs are displayed), rotate the tire one-quarter turn and
try again. If the TPMS sensor does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, switch the tire to a
known-good location and try again. If the TPMS sensor still does not respond after one full rotation
of the tire, replace the TPMS sensor.
20. When prompted, go to the right front wheel, then select the Enter button.
21. The TPMS sensor ID learning procedure goes through the same steps as the left front wheel
(see steps 12 thru 15). When the timer starts (the blue bar appears), point and hold the TPMS
sensor tool 10 to 20 inches from the right front wheel valve stem. Press and hold the large transmit
button for up to 1 minute. The button should flash red. The TPMS sensor tool sends a signal to the
TPMS sensor to turn on and broadcast the TPMS
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Relays and Modules - Steering and Suspension > Relays and
Modules - Wheels and Tires > Tire Pressure Monitor Receiver / Transponder > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Tire Monitor System - Usage of TPMS Sensor Tools > Page 6189
NOTE:
^ If the sensor IDs appear without the TPMS sensor tool button being pushed, a TPMS sensor is
transmitting. Select the Exit button, wait 5 minutes for the sensors to go to sleep, then follow the
on-screen prompts.
^ If the sensor does not respond (no sensor IDs are displayed), rotate the tire one-quarter turn and
try again. If the TPMS sensor does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, switch the tire to a
known-good location and try again. If the TPMS sensor still does not respond after one full rotation
of the tire, replace the TPMS sensor.
22. The sensor position check is complete. Using the DTC(s) and the information on the Sensor
Position Check screen, locate the problem tire.
If the vehicle has DTC 22-1,this means that the problem is in tire 2 (sensor 2).
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Bulletins > Tire Monitor System - Usage of TPMS Sensor Tools > Page 6190
You must refer to the Sensor Position Check screen to see what location tire 2 is in. Do not
assume it is in position 2 (left rear tire).
According to the Sensor Position Check screen tire 2 is in position 1, the left front tire.
SENSOR ID LEARNING
NOTE:
Even if you replace only one sensor, the Sensor ID Learning procedure must be done to all four
wheels.
6. In the Select Mode menu, select Honda Systems, and select the Enter button.
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Bulletins > Tire Monitor System - Usage of TPMS Sensor Tools > Page 6192
7. In the System Selection Menu, select TPMS, then select the Enter button.
8. In the Mode Menu, select Sensor ID Learning, then select the Enter button.
NOTE:
Make sure there are no other vehicles or other wheels with TPMS sensors within 10 feet of the
vehicle you are working on.
10. On the TPMS Sensor ID Learning screen, turn on the TPMS sensor tool by following the
on-screen instructions. The Accord is shown on the sample screen.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Relays and Modules - Steering and Suspension > Relays and
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Bulletins > Tire Monitor System - Usage of TPMS Sensor Tools > Page 6193
NOTE:
Each model is different. Turning on the TPMS sensor tool incorrectly could lead to incorrect
diagnosis and repair.
Once the TPMS sensor tool is turned on, select the YES button.
11. Follow the instructions on the TPMS Sensor ID Learning screen. When prompted, go to the left
front wheel, then select the Enter button.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Relays and Modules - Steering and Suspension > Relays and
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Bulletins > Tire Monitor System - Usage of TPMS Sensor Tools > Page 6194
12. Wait about 5 seconds, and the TPMS Sensor ID Learning screen should change to an
operation progress bar.
NOTE:
^ Wait for the timer to start. When you see the blue bar, use the TPMS sensor tool.
^ If the sensor IDs appear without the TPMS sensor tool button being pushed, a TPMS sensor is
transmitting. Select the Exit button, wait 5 minutes for the sensor to go to sleep, then follow the
on-screen prompts.
13. Point and hold the TPMS sensor tool 10 to 20 inches from the left front wheel valve stem. Press
and hold the large transmit button for up to 1 minute. The button should flash red. The TPMS
sensor tool sends a signal to the TPMS sensor to turn on and broadcast the TPMS sensor ID to the
TPMS control unit.
14. Watch for the TPMS sensor IDs to appear on the HDS screen The TPMS control unit must read
the sensor ID five times to complete the learning procedure.
NOTE:
15. The TPMS sensor ID learning changes to the following screen once the procedure is complete.
Select the Enter button.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Relays and Modules - Steering and Suspension > Relays and
Modules - Wheels and Tires > Tire Pressure Monitor Receiver / Transponder > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Tire Monitor System - Usage of TPMS Sensor Tools > Page 6195
NOTE:
If the sensor does not respond (no sensor IDs are displayed), rotate the tire one-quarter turn and
try again. If the TPMS sensor does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, switch the tire to a
known-good location and try again. If the TPMS sensor still does not respond after one full rotation
of the tire, replace the TPMS sensor.
16. When prompted, go to the left rear wheel, then select the Enter button.
17. The TPMS sensor ID learning procedure goes through the same steps as the left front wheel
(see steps 12 thru 15). When the timer starts (the blue bar appears), point and hold the TPMS
sensor tool 10 to 20 inches from the left rear wheel valve stem. Press and hold the large transmit
button for up to 1 minute. The button should flash red. The TPMS sensor tool sends a signal to the
TPMS sensor to turn on and broadcast the TPMS sensor ID to the TPMS control unit.
NOTE:
^ If the sensor IDs appear without the TPMS sensor tool button being pushed, a TPMS sensor is
transmitting. Select the Exit button, wait 5 minutes for the sensor to go to sleep, then follow the
on-screen prompts.
^ If the sensor does not respond (no sensor IDs are displayed), rotate the tire one-quarter turn and
try again. If the TPMS sensor does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, switch the tire to a
known-good location and try again. If the TPMS sensor still does not respond after one full rotation
of the tire, replace the TPMS sensor.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Relays and Modules - Steering and Suspension > Relays and
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Bulletins > Tire Monitor System - Usage of TPMS Sensor Tools > Page 6196
18. When prompted, go to the right rear wheel, then select the Enter button.
19. The TPMS sensor ID learning procedure goes through the same steps as the left front wheel
(see steps 12 thru 15). When the timer starts (the blue bar appears), point and hold the TPMS
sensor tool 10 to 20 inches from the right rear wheel valve stem. Press and hold the large transmit
button for up to 1 minute. The button should flash red. The TPMS sensor tool sends a signal to the
TPMS sensor to turn on and broadcast the TPMS sensor ID to the TPMS control unit.
NOTE:
^ If the sensor IDs appear without the TPMS sensor tool button being pushed, a TPMS sensor is
transmitting. Select the Exit button, wait 5 minutes for the sensor to go to sleep, then follow the
on-screen prompts.
^ If the sensor does not respond (no sensor IDs are displayed), rotate the tire one-quarter turn and
try again. If the TPMS sensor does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, switch the tire to a
known-good location and try again. If the TPMS sensor still does not respond after one full rotation
of the tire, replace the TPMS sensor.
20. When prompted, go to the right front wheel, then select the Enter button.
21. The TPMS sensor ID learning procedure goes through the same steps as the left front wheel
(see steps 12 thru 15). When the timer starts (the blue bar appears), point and hold the TPMS
sensor tool 10 to 20 inches from the right front wheel valve stem. Press and hold the large transmit
button for up to 1 minute. The button should flash red. The TPMS sensor tool sends a signal to the
TPMS sensor to turn on and broadcast the TPMS sensor ID to the TPMS control unit.
NOTE:
^ If the sensor IDs appear without the TPMS sensor tool button being pushed, a TPMS sensor is
transmitting. Select the Exit button, wait 5 minutes for the sensor to go to sleep, then follow the
on-screen prompts.
^ If the sensor does not respond (no sensor IDs are displayed), rotate the tire one-quarter turn and
try again. If the TPMS sensor does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, switch the tire to a
known-good location and try again. If the TPMS sensor still does not respond after one full rotation
of the tire, replace the TPMS sensor.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Relays and Modules - Steering and Suspension > Relays and
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Bulletins > Tire Monitor System - Usage of TPMS Sensor Tools > Page 6197
22. The sensor ID learning procedure is complete. Select the Enter button to continue to register
the TPMS sensor IDs in the TPMS unit.
23. The low tire pressure indicator is flashing and requires road-testing the vehicle. On the TPMS
Sensor ID Learning screen, select the Enter button.
24. Drive the vehicle for 2 minutes above 30 mph, or until the low tire pressure indicator goes off.
Once the indicator goes off, stop the vehicle.
25. In the Mode Menu, select the Data List, and then select the Enter button. Check the tire
pressure at all four tires to confirm that the TPMS control unit is reading the correct tire pressures.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Relays and Modules - Steering and Suspension > Relays and
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Bulletins > Tire Monitor System - Usage of TPMS Sensor Tools > Page 6198
26. Return to the Mode Menu, select DTCs, then select the Enter button.
Disclaimer
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Sensors and Switches - Steering and Suspension > Sensors and
Switches - Steering > Power Steering Pressure Switch > Component Information > Locations
The PSP switch signals the PCM when the power steering load is high.
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Switches - Steering > Power Steering Pressure Switch > Component Information > Locations > Page 6207
1. Start the engine, and let it idle. 2. Align the steering wheel straight ahead. 3. Check the PSP
SWITCH in the DATA LIST with the HDS.
YES - Go to step 4.
NO - Go to step 14.
4. Turn the steering wheel to the full lock position. 5. Check the PSP SWITCH in the DATA LIST
with the HDS.
NO - Go to step 6.
6. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 7. Disconnect the PSP switch 2P connector. 8. Start the engine. 9.
Check the PSP SWITCH in the DATA LIST with the HDS.
NO - Go to step 10.
10. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 11. Jump the SCS line with the HDS. 12. Disconnect ECM/PCM
connector A (44P). 13. Check for continuity between PSP switch 2P connector terminal No. 1 and
body ground.
Is there continuity?
YES - Repair short in the wire between the ECM/PCM (A22) and the PSP switch.
NO - Update the ECM/PCM if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a known-good
ECM/PCM, then recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away with a known-good ECM/PCM,
replace the original ECM/PCM.
14. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 15. Disconnect the PSP switch 2P connector. 16. Connect PSP
switch 2P connector terminals No. 1 and No. 2 with a jumper wire, then start the engine.
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Switches - Steering > Power Steering Pressure Switch > Component Information > Locations > Page 6208
17. Check the PSP SWITCH in the DATA LIST with the HDS.
NO - Go to step 18.
18. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 19. Remove the jumper wire from the PSP switch 2P connector.
20. Jump the SCS line with the HDS. 21. Disconnect ECM/PCM connector A (44P). 22. Connect
PSP switch 2P connector terminal No. 1 to body ground with a jumper wire.
23. Check for continuity between body ground and ECM/PCM connector terminal A22.
Is there continuity?
NO - Repair open in the wire between the PSP switch and the ECM/PCM (A22).
24. Check for continuity between PSP switch 2P connector terminal No. 2 and body ground.
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Switches - Steering > Power Steering Pressure Switch > Component Information > Locations > Page 6209
Is there continuity?
YES - Update the ECM/PCM if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a known-good
ECM/PCM, then recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away with a known-good ECM/PCM,
replace the original ECM/PCM.
NO - Repair open in the wire between the PSP switch and G401.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Sensors and Switches - Steering and Suspension > Sensors and
Switches - Steering > Power Steering Pressure Switch > Component Information > Locations > Page 6210
(Supersedes 06-072, dated January 5, 2007, to update the information marked by the black bars
and asterisks)
*VEHICLES AFFECTED
INTRODUCTION
Beginning with some 2007 models, Honda is using a second type of TPMS (tire pressure
monitoring system) that does not use initiators like the 2006 and earlier
TPMS.
^ Are mounted on the inside of the rim, connected to the valve stem.
^ Use a wireless transmission to send tire pressure and temperature information to the TPMS unit.
^ Use non-replaceable batteries. To save battery life, the sensors turn on only when the vehicle is
being used.
*The first type of TPMS (all vehicles through 2006) uses initiators mounted above each wheel.
When you turn the ignition switch to ON (II), the initiators send out a low frequency signal to turn on
the TPMS sensors. The initiator, in conjunction with the TPMS control unit, determines the tire
location. For example, if the right front tire is low on air, the customer sees the low tire pressure
indicator and an indiction that the right front tire is low on pressure. The initiator-type TPMS, or
location-type TPMS (in the HDS), is used on the 2005-08 Pilot, the 2006-08 Ridgeline, and the
2005-08 Odyssey Touring models.*
The new TPMS does not use initiators. The TPMS sensors have a built-in acceleration sensor that
turns on the TPMS sensors when the vehicle speed reaches about 25 mph. Without an initiator, the
TPMS control unit cannot determine tire location. For example, if the right front tire is low on air, the
customer sees only the low pressure indicator and must check all four tires to find the problem tire.
During diagnosis, the TPMS control unit provides a code for each tire.
NOTE:
^ During diagnosis, the TPMS control unit gives a tire number, but you need to do the sensor
position check to find the location of the tire number.
^ Use with HDS software version 2.011.010 or later. The initiator-less TPMS, or no location-type
TPMS, is used on vehicles affected by this bulletin.
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Switches - Wheels and Tires > Tire Pressure Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tire Monitor
System - Usage of TPMS Sensor Tools > Page 6216
A TPMS sensor tool is used for troubleshooting and replacing the TPMS sensors. See TOOL
DESCRIPTION for more information.
WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION
None.
TOOL INFORMATION
TOOL DESCRIPTION
The TPMS sensor tool is a wireless tool that is used with the HDS for troubleshooting (sensor
position check) and for replacing TPMS sensors or the control unit (sensor ID learning).
General use:
^ Always make sure the TPMS sensor tool is set to low power unless otherwise instructed.
*^ Make sure there are no vehicles or other wheels with TPMS sensors within 10 feet of the vehicle
you are working on.
^ Make sure the batteries are in good condition and secure in the case. Refer to ServiceNews
article A07050D, Keep Those TPMS Sensor Tool Batteries From Popping Loose, for more
information.*
^ Turn on the TPMS sensor tool by following the HDS instructions. There are two different
wavelengths used, and there are two ways to turn on the TPMS sensor tool. If the TPMS sensor
tool is not turned on correctly, you won't be able to troubleshoot the vehicle or do the sensor ID
learning procedure.
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Switches - Wheels and Tires > Tire Pressure Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tire Monitor
System - Usage of TPMS Sensor Tools > Page 6217
^ Turn off the TPMS sensor tool by pressing and holding the small button as shown until the green
light in the button turns off. The tool will also turn off after 5 minutes of inactivity.
NOTE:
Offset your finger, or use just your nail to push the buttons, so you can see the light in the buttons.
Two AC adapters are included in the TPMS sensor tool kit. The 900 AC adapter is for the battery
charger. Use the straight AC adapter to power the TPMS sensor tool when charged batteries are
not available.
NOTE:
^ The AC adapter does not charge the batteries in the TPMS sensor tool.
^ Remove the batteries from the TPMS sensor tool when using the AC adapter.
There are two ways to charge the batteries. The method to use depends on the batteries' state of
charge. For brand new or fully discharged batteries:
1. Connect the AC adapter to the charger (make sure you use the AC adapter with the 90° bend).
2. Insert the batteries into the charger. Make sure you note the polarity (direction) of the batteries.
3. Plug the charger into a power outlet. The LEDs turn red, and quick charging begins.
NOTE:
^ If the LEDs do not come on, check that the batteries are properly installed. If the LEDs still do not
come on, replace the batteries.
^ If you press the red button while the batteries are charging, the battery discharge mode begins.
Press the red button again within 30 seconds, and the charger switches back to its quick charge
mode.
^ When the LEDs turn green, the batteries are charged, and the battery charger automatically
switches to trickle charge mode.
^ Remove the batteries from the charger when it is not plugged in.
For charging batteries when you don't know the state of charge:
1. Connect the AC adapter to the charger (make sure you use the AC adapter with the 90° bend).
2. Insert the batteries into the charger. Make sure you note the polarity (direction) of the batteries.
4. Press the red button once to start the discharge mode. The LEDs blink red.
NOTE:
^ If the LEDs do not come on, check that the batteries are properly installed. If the LEDs still do not
come on, replace the batteries.
^ If you press the red button a second time within 30 seconds, the battery quick charge mode
begins.
^ Once the batteries are discharged, the LEDs turn solid red and the battery quick charge mode
begins.
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System - Usage of TPMS Sensor Tools > Page 6218
^ When the LEDs turn green, the batteries are charged, and the battery charger automatically
switches to trickle charge mode.
^ Remove the batteries from the charger when it is not plugged in.
When the TPMS sets a DTC, it refers to Tire 1, Tire 2, Tire 3, or Tire 4. In the service manual, the
tire number is the sensor number. For example, Tire 2 is sensor 2.
However, the tire number is not the tire position. To diagnose or repair the vehicle, do the sensor
position check to find the location of the problem tire (or sensor) on the vehicle.
7. In the System Selection Menu, select TPMS, then select the Enter button.
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System - Usage of TPMS Sensor Tools > Page 6220
8. In the Mode menu, select Functional Tests, then select the Enter button.
9. In the Functional Test menu, select Sensor Position Check, then select the Enter button.
*10. On the Sensor Position Check screen, turn on the TPMS sensor tool by following the
on-screen instructions. (The Accord is shown on the sample
screen.)*
NOTE:
Each model is different. Turning on the TPMS sensor tool incorrectly could lead to incorrect
diagnosis and repair.
Once the TPMS sensor tool is turned on, select the YES button.
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Switches - Wheels and Tires > Tire Pressure Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tire Monitor
System - Usage of TPMS Sensor Tools > Page 6221
11. Follow the instructions on the Sensor Position Check screen. When prompted, go to the left
front wheel, then select the Enter button.
12. Wait about 5 seconds, and the Sensor Position Check screen changes to an operation
progress bar.
* NOTE:
^ Wait for the timer to start. When the blue bar appears, use the TPMS sensor tool.*
^ If the sensor IDs appear without the TPMS sensor tool button being pushed, a TPMS sensor is
transmitting. Select the Exit button, wait 5 minutes for the sensor to go to sleep, then follow the
on-screen prompts.
13. Point and hold the TPMS sensor tool 10 to 20 inches from the left front wheel valve stem. Press
and hold the large transmit button for up to 1 minute. The button should flash red. The TPMS
sensor tool sends a signal to the TPMS sensor to turn on and broadcast the TPMS sensor ID to the
TPMS control unit.
14. Watch for the TPMS sensor IDs to appear on the HDS screen. The TPMS control unit must
read the sensor ID five times to complete the learning
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Sensors and Switches - Steering and Suspension > Sensors and
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System - Usage of TPMS Sensor Tools > Page 6222
procedure.
NOTE:
15. The TPMS sensor ID learning changes to the following screen once the procedure is complete.
Select the Enter button.
NOTE:
If the sensor does not respond (no sensor IDs are displayed), rotate the tire one-quarter turn and
try again. If the TPMS sensor does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, switch the tire to a
known-good location and try again. If the TPMS sensor still does not respond after one full rotation
of the tire, replace the TPMS sensor.
16. When prompted, go to the left rear wheel, then select the Enter button.
17. The TPMS sensor ID learning procedure goes through the same steps as the left front wheel
(see steps 12 thru 15). When the timer starts (the blue bar appears), point and hold the TPMS
sensor tool 10 to 20 inches from the left rear wheel valve stem. Press and hold the large transmit
button for up to 1 minute. The button should flash red. The TPMS sensor tool sends a signal to the
TPMS sensor to turn on and broadcast the TPMS sensor
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Sensors and Switches - Steering and Suspension > Sensors and
Switches - Wheels and Tires > Tire Pressure Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tire Monitor
System - Usage of TPMS Sensor Tools > Page 6223
ID to the TPMS control unit.
NOTE:
^ If the sensor IDs appear without the TPMS sensor tool button being pushed, a TPMS sensor is
transmitting. Select the Exit button, wait 5 minutes for the sensors to go to sleep, then follow the
on-screen prompts.
^ If the sensor does not respond (no sensor IDs are displayed), rotate the tire one-quarter turn and
try again. If the TPMS sensor does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, switch the tire to a
known-good location and try again. If the TPMS sensor still does not respond after one full rotation
of the tire, replace the TPMS sensor.
18. When prompted, go to the right rear wheel, then select the Enter button.
19. The TPMS sensor ID learning procedure goes through the same steps as the left front wheel
(see steps 12 thru 15). When the timer starts (the blue bar appears), point and hold the TPMS
sensor tool 10 to 20 inches from the right rear wheel valve stem. Press and hold the large transmit
button for up to 1 minute. The button should flash red. The TPMS sensor tool sends a signal to the
TPMS sensor to turn on and broadcast the TPMS sensor ID to the TPMS control unit.
NOTE:
^ If the sensor IDs appear without the TPMS sensor tool button being pushed, a TPMS sensor is
transmitting. Select the Exit button, wait 5 minutes for the sensors to go to sleep, then follow the
on-screen prompts.
^ If the sensor does not respond (no sensor IDs are displayed), rotate the tire one-quarter turn and
try again. If the TPMS sensor does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, switch the tire to a
known-good location and try again. If the TPMS sensor still does not respond after one full rotation
of the tire, replace the TPMS sensor.
20. When prompted, go to the right front wheel, then select the Enter button.
21. The TPMS sensor ID learning procedure goes through the same steps as the left front wheel
(see steps 12 thru 15). When the timer starts (the blue bar appears), point and hold the TPMS
sensor tool 10 to 20 inches from the right front wheel valve stem. Press and hold the large transmit
button for up to 1 minute. The button should flash red. The TPMS sensor tool sends a signal to the
TPMS sensor to turn on and broadcast the TPMS
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Sensors and Switches - Steering and Suspension > Sensors and
Switches - Wheels and Tires > Tire Pressure Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tire Monitor
System - Usage of TPMS Sensor Tools > Page 6224
NOTE:
^ If the sensor IDs appear without the TPMS sensor tool button being pushed, a TPMS sensor is
transmitting. Select the Exit button, wait 5 minutes for the sensors to go to sleep, then follow the
on-screen prompts.
^ If the sensor does not respond (no sensor IDs are displayed), rotate the tire one-quarter turn and
try again. If the TPMS sensor does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, switch the tire to a
known-good location and try again. If the TPMS sensor still does not respond after one full rotation
of the tire, replace the TPMS sensor.
22. The sensor position check is complete. Using the DTC(s) and the information on the Sensor
Position Check screen, locate the problem tire.
If the vehicle has DTC 22-1,this means that the problem is in tire 2 (sensor 2).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Sensors and Switches - Steering and Suspension > Sensors and
Switches - Wheels and Tires > Tire Pressure Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tire Monitor
System - Usage of TPMS Sensor Tools > Page 6225
You must refer to the Sensor Position Check screen to see what location tire 2 is in. Do not
assume it is in position 2 (left rear tire).
According to the Sensor Position Check screen tire 2 is in position 1, the left front tire.
SENSOR ID LEARNING
NOTE:
Even if you replace only one sensor, the Sensor ID Learning procedure must be done to all four
wheels.
6. In the Select Mode menu, select Honda Systems, and select the Enter button.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Sensors and Switches - Steering and Suspension > Sensors and
Switches - Wheels and Tires > Tire Pressure Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tire Monitor
System - Usage of TPMS Sensor Tools > Page 6227
7. In the System Selection Menu, select TPMS, then select the Enter button.
8. In the Mode Menu, select Sensor ID Learning, then select the Enter button.
NOTE:
Make sure there are no other vehicles or other wheels with TPMS sensors within 10 feet of the
vehicle you are working on.
10. On the TPMS Sensor ID Learning screen, turn on the TPMS sensor tool by following the
on-screen instructions. The Accord is shown on the sample screen.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Sensors and Switches - Steering and Suspension > Sensors and
Switches - Wheels and Tires > Tire Pressure Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tire Monitor
System - Usage of TPMS Sensor Tools > Page 6228
NOTE:
Each model is different. Turning on the TPMS sensor tool incorrectly could lead to incorrect
diagnosis and repair.
Once the TPMS sensor tool is turned on, select the YES button.
11. Follow the instructions on the TPMS Sensor ID Learning screen. When prompted, go to the left
front wheel, then select the Enter button.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Sensors and Switches - Steering and Suspension > Sensors and
Switches - Wheels and Tires > Tire Pressure Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tire Monitor
System - Usage of TPMS Sensor Tools > Page 6229
12. Wait about 5 seconds, and the TPMS Sensor ID Learning screen should change to an
operation progress bar.
NOTE:
^ Wait for the timer to start. When you see the blue bar, use the TPMS sensor tool.
^ If the sensor IDs appear without the TPMS sensor tool button being pushed, a TPMS sensor is
transmitting. Select the Exit button, wait 5 minutes for the sensor to go to sleep, then follow the
on-screen prompts.
13. Point and hold the TPMS sensor tool 10 to 20 inches from the left front wheel valve stem. Press
and hold the large transmit button for up to 1 minute. The button should flash red. The TPMS
sensor tool sends a signal to the TPMS sensor to turn on and broadcast the TPMS sensor ID to the
TPMS control unit.
14. Watch for the TPMS sensor IDs to appear on the HDS screen The TPMS control unit must read
the sensor ID five times to complete the learning procedure.
NOTE:
15. The TPMS sensor ID learning changes to the following screen once the procedure is complete.
Select the Enter button.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Sensors and Switches - Steering and Suspension > Sensors and
Switches - Wheels and Tires > Tire Pressure Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tire Monitor
System - Usage of TPMS Sensor Tools > Page 6230
NOTE:
If the sensor does not respond (no sensor IDs are displayed), rotate the tire one-quarter turn and
try again. If the TPMS sensor does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, switch the tire to a
known-good location and try again. If the TPMS sensor still does not respond after one full rotation
of the tire, replace the TPMS sensor.
16. When prompted, go to the left rear wheel, then select the Enter button.
17. The TPMS sensor ID learning procedure goes through the same steps as the left front wheel
(see steps 12 thru 15). When the timer starts (the blue bar appears), point and hold the TPMS
sensor tool 10 to 20 inches from the left rear wheel valve stem. Press and hold the large transmit
button for up to 1 minute. The button should flash red. The TPMS sensor tool sends a signal to the
TPMS sensor to turn on and broadcast the TPMS sensor ID to the TPMS control unit.
NOTE:
^ If the sensor IDs appear without the TPMS sensor tool button being pushed, a TPMS sensor is
transmitting. Select the Exit button, wait 5 minutes for the sensor to go to sleep, then follow the
on-screen prompts.
^ If the sensor does not respond (no sensor IDs are displayed), rotate the tire one-quarter turn and
try again. If the TPMS sensor does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, switch the tire to a
known-good location and try again. If the TPMS sensor still does not respond after one full rotation
of the tire, replace the TPMS sensor.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Sensors and Switches - Steering and Suspension > Sensors and
Switches - Wheels and Tires > Tire Pressure Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tire Monitor
System - Usage of TPMS Sensor Tools > Page 6231
18. When prompted, go to the right rear wheel, then select the Enter button.
19. The TPMS sensor ID learning procedure goes through the same steps as the left front wheel
(see steps 12 thru 15). When the timer starts (the blue bar appears), point and hold the TPMS
sensor tool 10 to 20 inches from the right rear wheel valve stem. Press and hold the large transmit
button for up to 1 minute. The button should flash red. The TPMS sensor tool sends a signal to the
TPMS sensor to turn on and broadcast the TPMS sensor ID to the TPMS control unit.
NOTE:
^ If the sensor IDs appear without the TPMS sensor tool button being pushed, a TPMS sensor is
transmitting. Select the Exit button, wait 5 minutes for the sensor to go to sleep, then follow the
on-screen prompts.
^ If the sensor does not respond (no sensor IDs are displayed), rotate the tire one-quarter turn and
try again. If the TPMS sensor does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, switch the tire to a
known-good location and try again. If the TPMS sensor still does not respond after one full rotation
of the tire, replace the TPMS sensor.
20. When prompted, go to the right front wheel, then select the Enter button.
21. The TPMS sensor ID learning procedure goes through the same steps as the left front wheel
(see steps 12 thru 15). When the timer starts (the blue bar appears), point and hold the TPMS
sensor tool 10 to 20 inches from the right front wheel valve stem. Press and hold the large transmit
button for up to 1 minute. The button should flash red. The TPMS sensor tool sends a signal to the
TPMS sensor to turn on and broadcast the TPMS sensor ID to the TPMS control unit.
NOTE:
^ If the sensor IDs appear without the TPMS sensor tool button being pushed, a TPMS sensor is
transmitting. Select the Exit button, wait 5 minutes for the sensor to go to sleep, then follow the
on-screen prompts.
^ If the sensor does not respond (no sensor IDs are displayed), rotate the tire one-quarter turn and
try again. If the TPMS sensor does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, switch the tire to a
known-good location and try again. If the TPMS sensor still does not respond after one full rotation
of the tire, replace the TPMS sensor.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Sensors and Switches - Steering and Suspension > Sensors and
Switches - Wheels and Tires > Tire Pressure Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tire Monitor
System - Usage of TPMS Sensor Tools > Page 6232
22. The sensor ID learning procedure is complete. Select the Enter button to continue to register
the TPMS sensor IDs in the TPMS unit.
23. The low tire pressure indicator is flashing and requires road-testing the vehicle. On the TPMS
Sensor ID Learning screen, select the Enter button.
24. Drive the vehicle for 2 minutes above 30 mph, or until the low tire pressure indicator goes off.
Once the indicator goes off, stop the vehicle.
25. In the Mode Menu, select the Data List, and then select the Enter button. Check the tire
pressure at all four tires to confirm that the TPMS control unit is reading the correct tire pressures.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Sensors and Switches - Steering and Suspension > Sensors and
Switches - Wheels and Tires > Tire Pressure Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tire Monitor
System - Usage of TPMS Sensor Tools > Page 6233
26. Return to the Mode Menu, select DTCs, then select the Enter button.
Disclaimer
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Sensors and Switches - Steering and Suspension > Sensors and
Switches - Wheels and Tires > Tire Pressure Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 6234
Tire Pressure Sensor: Testing and Inspection Memorizing the Tire Pressure Sensor ID
TPMS sensor initializer tool AKS0620006 Available through the American Honda Tool and
Equipment Program; call 1-888-424-6857
All four tire pressure sensor IDs must be memorized to the TPMS control unit whenever you do any
of these actions:
NOTE: ^
To ensure the control unit memorizes the correct ID, the vehicle with the new sensor must be at
least 10 ft (3 m) away from other vehicles that have tire pressure sensors.
1. With the ignition switch at LOCK (0) wait 5 minutes or more for the TPMS sensors to go to sleep
mode. Connect the HDS to the data link
connector (DLC) (A) located under the driver's side of the dashboard.
2. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 3. Make sure the HDS communicates with the vehicle and the
TPMS control unit. If it doesn't, troubleshoot the DLC circuit. 4. Select Sensor ID Learning from the
mode menu on the HDS. 5. Follow HDS screen prompts to turn on the TPMS sensor initializer tool
(A). Verify the power switch (B) is in the "Low" position.
6. Hold the TPMS sensor initializer tool near one wheel, memorize the pressure sensor ID by
following the screen prompts on the HDS.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Sensors and Switches - Steering and Suspension > Sensors and
Switches - Wheels and Tires > Tire Pressure Sensor > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Memorizing the
Tire Pressure Sensor ID > Page 6237
7. Repeat step 6 for each wheel until all four sensor IDs are memorized. When all four IDs are
memorized, the low tire pressure indicator blinks. 8. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). 9.
Disconnect the HDS from the DLC.
10. Test-drive the vehicle at 28 mph (45 km/h) or more for at least 1 minute. 11. Make sure the low
tire pressure indicator does not blink. 12. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). 13. Reduce the
pressure in one tire until it is less than the appropriate specification. 14. Turn the ignition switch to
ON (II). 15. Test-drive the vehicle at 28 mph (45 km/h) or more for at least 1 minute. 16. Make sure
the low tire pressure indicator turns on, then inflate the tire. 17. Repeat step 12 to 16 for all the
other tires. 18. Clear any DTCs with the HDS.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Sensors and Switches - Steering and Suspension > Sensors and
Switches - Wheels and Tires > Tire Pressure Sensor > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Memorizing the
Tire Pressure Sensor ID > Page 6238
Tire Pressure Sensor: Testing and Inspection Tire Pressure Sensor Location
NOTE: This procedure locates where the tire pressure sensors number 1, 2, 3, 4 are mounted,
when activated by the TPMS sensor initializer tool.
^ Memorizing tire pressure sensor IDs (including replacing the TPMS control unit, or the tire
pressure sensors).
^ Wheel rotation.
1. With the ignition switch at LOCK (0), connect the HDS to the data link connector (DLC (A)
located under the driver's side of the dashboard.
2. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 3. Make sure the HDS communicates with the vehicle and the
TPMS control unit. If it doesn't, troubleshoot the DLC circuit. 4. Select Function Test from the mode
menu, then select Sensor Position Check on the HDS. 5. Follow HDS screen prompts to turn on
the TPMS sensor initializer tool (A). Verify the power switch (B) is in the "Low" position.
6. Follow the prompts on the HDS to activate the tire pressure sensors using the TPMS sensor
initializer tool. Start with the left-front (LF) wheel.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Sensors and Switches - Steering and Suspension > Sensors and
Switches - Wheels and Tires > Tire Pressure Sensor > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Memorizing the
Tire Pressure Sensor ID > Page 6239
7. Check the HDS screen, and note the active sensor reception order of the tire pressure sensor 1,
2, 3, 4.
NOTE: If the sensor does not respond to the TPMS initializer, rotate the tire 1/4 turn and retry. If
the sensor still does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, swap the tire to a known-good
location and retry. If the sensor still does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, replace the
tire pressure sensor.
8. Note the sensor location for reference. 9. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Sensors and Switches - Steering and Suspension > Sensors and
Switches - Wheels and Tires > Tire Pressure Sensor > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Page 6240
Tire Pressure Sensor: Service and Repair
Removal
1. Raise the vehicle, and support it with safety stands in the proper locations. 2. Remove the wheel
with the faulty sensor. 3. Remove the tire valve stem cap and the valve stem core, and let the tire
deflate. 4. Remove any balance weights, and then break the bead loose from the wheel with a
commercially available tire changer (A).
5. Position the wheel so the tire machine (A) and tire iron (B) are next to the valve stem (C) and will
move away from it when the machine starts.
6. Remove the valve stem nut (A) and washer (B), then remove the tire pressure sensor with valve
stem (C) from the wheel.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Sensors and Switches - Steering and Suspension > Sensors and
Switches - Wheels and Tires > Tire Pressure Sensor > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Page 6241
7. Remove and discard the valve stem grommet (A) from the tire pressure sensor (B).
NOTE: ^
The valve stem grommet might stay in the wheel; make sure you remove it.
^ Always use a new valve stem grommet whenever the tire pressure sensor has been removed
from the wheel. When only removing a tire from the wheel, replace the valve stem grommet if it is
possible.
Installation
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Sensors and Switches - Steering and Suspension > Sensors and
Switches - Wheels and Tires > Tire Pressure Sensor > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Page 6242
1. Before installing the tire pressure sensor, clean the mating surfaces on the sensor and the
wheel. 2. Install the tire pressure sensor (A) and the washer (B) to the wheel (C), and tighten the
valve stem nut (D) finger tight. Make sure the pressure
3. Tighten the valve stem nut to the specified torque while holding the tire pressure sensor.
NOTE: ^
Do not use air or electric impact tools to tighten a valve stem nut.
^ Do not twist the tire pressure sensor to adjust its position with the wheel, as this will damage or
deform the valve stem grommet.
4. Lube the tire bead sparingly, and position the wheel so the tire machine (A) and tire iron (B) are
next to the valve stem (C) and will move away
from it when the machine starts. Then install the tire onto the wheel.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Sensors and Switches - Steering and Suspension > Sensors and
Switches - Wheels and Tires > Tire Pressure Sensor > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Page 6243
5. With a dry air source, inflate the tire to 300 kPa (3.1 kgf/cm2, 44 psi) to seat the tire bead to the
rim, then adjust the tire pressure, then install the
NOTE: Make sure the tire bead is seated on both sides of the rim uniformly.
6. Check and adjust the wheel balance, then install the wheels on the vehicle. 7. Remove the jack
stands, and lower the vehicle. Torque the wheel nuts to specifications. 8. Connect the HDS, and
memorize the pressure sensor IDs using the TPMS sensor initializer tool.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Front Steering Knuckle > Component Information >
Service and Repair
Knucle/Hub/Wheel Bearing
^ Attachment, 78 x 90 mm 07GAD-SD40101
^ Attachment, 62 x 68 mm 07746-0010500
Knuckle/Hub Replacement
1. Raise the front of the vehicle, and support it with safety stands in the proper locations. 2.
Remove the wheel nuts (A) and the front wheel.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Front Steering Knuckle > Component Information >
Service and Repair > Page 6248
3. Remove the brake hose mounting bolt (A) from the damper.
4. Remove the brake caliper bracket mounting bolts (B), then remove the caliper assembly (C) from
the knuckle. To prevent damage to the caliper
assembly or brake hose, use a short piece of wire to hang the caliper assembly from the
undercarriage. Do not twist the brake hose excessively.
5. Remove the wheel speed sensor (A) from the knuckle (B). Do not disconnect the wheel speed
sensor connector.
6. Raise the stake (A), then remove the spindle nut (B).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Front Steering Knuckle > Component Information >
Service and Repair > Page 6249
7. Remove the brake disc. 8. Check the front hub for damage and cracks. 9. Remove the cotter pin
(A) from the tie-rod end ball joint, then remove the nut (B).
10. Disconnect the tie-rod end ball joint from the knuckle using the ball joint remover. 11. Remove
the flange bolt and the self-locking nuts from the lower arm (A).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Front Steering Knuckle > Component Information >
Service and Repair > Page 6250
12. Disconnect the lower ball joint (E) from the lower arm. 13. Remove the damper pinch bolts (A)
and the self locking nuts (B) from the damper.
14. Remove the driveshaft outboard joint (C) from the knuckle (D) by tapping the driveshaft end (E)
with a soft face hammer while drawing the hub
NOTE: ^
Do not pull the driveshaft end outward. The driveshaft inboard joint may come apart.
^ During installation, apply grease to the mating surfaces of the wheel bearing and driveshaft
outboard joint.
15. Remove the lock pin (A) from the lower ball joint, then remove the castle nut (B).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Front Steering Knuckle > Component Information >
Service and Repair > Page 6251
16. Disconnect the lower ball joint (C) from the knuckle using the ball joint thread protector and the
ball joint remover. 17. Install the knuckle/hub in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
^ First install all the components, and lightly tighten the bolts and nuts, then raise the suspension to
load it with the vehicle's weight before fully tightening to the specified torque values.
^ Be careful not to damage the ball joint boot when connecting the knuckle.
^ Before connecting the lower ball joint to the knuckle, degrease the threaded section and tapered
portion of the ball joint pin, the ball joint connecting hole, the threaded section and mating surfaces
of the castle nut.
^ Torque the castle nut to the lower torque specification, then tighten it only far enough to align the
slot with the ball joint pin hole. Do not align the castle nut by loosening it.
^ Before installing the spindle nut, apply a small amount of engine oil to the seating surface of the
nut. After tightening, use a drift to stake the spindle nut shoulder against the driveshaft.
^ Before installing the brake disc, clean the mating surfaces of the front hub and the inside of the
brake disc.
^ Before installing the wheel, clean the mating surfaces of the brake disc and the inside of the
wheel.
1. Separate the hub (A) from the knuckle (B) using the hub dis/assembly tool and a hydraulic press.
Hold the knuckle with the attachment (C) of the
hydraulic press or equivalent tool. Be careful not to deform the splash guard (D). Hold onto the hub
to keep it from failing when pressed clear.
2. Press the wheel bearing inner race (A) off of the hub (B) using the hub dis/assembly tool, a
commercially available bearing separator (C), and a
press.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Front Steering Knuckle > Component Information >
Service and Repair > Page 6252
3. Remove the splash guard (A) and the snap ring (B) from the knuckle (C).
4. Press the wheel bearing (A) out of the knuckle (B) using the attachment, the driver, and a press.
5. Wash the knuckle and hub thoroughly in high flash point solvent before reassembly. 6. Press a
new wheel bearing (A) into the knuckle. (B) using the old bearing (C), a steel plate (D), the
attachment, the support base, and a press.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Front Steering Knuckle > Component Information >
Service and Repair > Page 6253
7. Install the snap ring (A) securely in the knuckle (B).
8. Install the splash guard (C), and tighten the screws (D) to the specified torque value. 9. Install
the hub (A) onto the knuckle (B) using the attachment, the driver, the support base, and a hydraulic
press. Be careful not to distort the
Honda power steering fluid preferred, or another brand of fluid as a temporary replacement. Do not
use ATF.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Power Steering > Power Steering Fluid > Component
Information > Specifications > Page 6259
Power Steering Fluid: Service and Repair
Fluid Replacement
Check the reservoir (A) at regular intervals, and add the recommended fluid as necessary. Always
use Honda Power Steering Fluid. Use of any other type of power steering fluid or automatic
transmission fluid can cause increased wear and poor steering in cold weather.
1. Remove the reservoir from its holder. Raise the reservoir, then disconnect the return hose (A) to
drain the reservoir. Take care not to spill the fluid
on the body and parts. Wipe off any spilled fluid at once.
2. Connect a hose (B) of suitable diameter to the disconnected return hose, and put the hose end
in a suitable container. 3. Start the engine, let it run at idle, and turn the steering wheel from
lock-to-lock several times. When fluid stops running out of the hose, shut off the
4. Reinstall the return hose on the reservoir. 5. Fill the reservoir to the upper level line (C). 6. Start
the engine and run it at idle, then turn the steering from lock-to-lock several times to bleed air from
the system. 7. Recheck the fluid level and add some if necessary. Do not fill the reservoir beyond
the upper level line. 8. If the fluid is contaminated, dark, or discolored, repeat the procedure as
necessary.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Power Steering > Power Steering Line/Hose >
Component Information > Service and Repair
Power Steering Pump: Testing and Inspection Pump Pressure Test With T/N 07406-001000A or
T/N 07406-001A101
Check the fluid pressure as follows to determine whether the trouble is in the pump or the steering
gearbox.
1. Check the power steering fluid level. 2. Remove the cowl cover and under-cowl panel. 3.
Remove the pump outlet hose clamp (A) from the intake manifold.
4. Disconnect the pump outlet hose, then install the P/S joint adapter (pump) on the pump (A).
Take care so as not to spill the power steering fluid on
5. Install the P/S pressure gauge to the P/S joint adapter (pump). 6. Connect the P/S joint adapter
(hose) to the P/S pressure gauge. 7. Connect the pump outlet hose (A) to the P/S joint adapter
(hose).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Power Steering > Power Steering Pump > Component
Information > Testing and Inspection > Pump Pressure Test With T/N 07406-001000A or T/N 07406-001A101 > Page 6267
^ Clogged or deformed pump outlet or return line between the pump and the steering gearbox.
12. Raise the engine speed to 3,000 rpm, and measure the fluid pressure. If the pump is in good
condition, the gauge should read at least 1,470 kPa (15
13. Lower the engine speed, and let it idle. Close the shut-off valve gradually until the pressure
gauge needle is stable. Read the pressure.
NOTICE: Do not keep the shut-off valve closed more than 5 seconds or the pump could be
damaged by overheating.
If the pump is in good condition, the gauge should read at least 7,850 - 8,550 kPa (80 - 87 kgf/cm2
1,140 - 1,240 psi). A low reading means pump output is too low for full assist. Repair or replace the
pump.
Power Steering Pump: Testing and Inspection Pump Pressure Test With T/N 07406-0010001
Check the fluid pressure as follows to determine whether the trouble is in the pump or the steering
gearbox.
1. Check the power steering fluid level. 2. Remove the cowl cover and under-cowl panel. 3.
Remove the pump outlet hose clamp (A) from the intake manifold.
4. Disconnect the pump outlet hose, then install the P/S joint adapter (pump) on the pump (A).
Take care so as not to spill the power steering fluid on
5. Install the P/S pressure gauge to the P/S joint adapter (pump). 6. Connect the P/S joint adapter
(hose) to the P/S pressure gauge. 7. Connect the pump outlet hose (A) to the P/S joint adapter
(hose).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Power Steering > Power Steering Pump > Component
Information > Testing and Inspection > Pump Pressure Test With T/N 07406-001000A or T/N 07406-001A101 > Page 6269
10. Start the engine, and let it idle. 11. Turn the steering wheel from lock-to-lock several times to
warm the fluid to operating temperature at 158°F (70°C). 12. Measure steady-state fluid pressure
while the engine is idling. If the pump is in good condition, the gauge should be no more than 1,470
kPa (15
kgf/cm2, 213 psi). If it reads higher, check for:
^ Clogged or deformed pump outlet or return line between the pump and the steering gearbox.
13. Raise the engine speed to 3,000 rpm, and measure the fluid pressure. If the pump is in good
condition, the gauge should read at least 1,470 kPa (15
14. Lower the engine speed, and let it idle. Close the shut-off valve, then close the pressure control
valve gradually until the pressure gauge needle is
NOTICE: Do not keep the shut-off valve closed more than 5 seconds or the pump could be
damaged by overheating.
If the pump is in good condition, the gauge should read at least 7,850 - 8,550 kPa (80 - 87 kgf/cm2,
1,140 - 1,240 psi). A low reading means pump output is too low for full assist. Repair or replace the
pump.
Pump Replacement
1. Place a suitable container under the vehicle. 2. Drain the power steering fluid from the reservoir.
3. Remove the cowl cover and under-cowl panel. 4. Remove the air cleaner. 5. Remove the front
splash shield. 6. M/T model: Remove the shift cable bracket (A).
7. A/T model: Disconnect the shift cable from the control lever. 8. Remove the upper torque rod
mounting bolts (A) from the body.
10. Cover the parts around the power steering pump with several shop towels to protect them from
spilled power steering fluid. 11. Disconnect the pump inlet hose (B) and pump outlet hose (C) from
the pump (D), and plug them. Take care not to spill the fluid on the body or on
any parts. Wipe off any spilled fluid at once. Do not turn the steering wheel with the pump removed.
12. Remove the pump outlet hose O-ring (E). 13. Remove the pump mounting bolts (F).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Power Steering > Power Steering Pump > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Removal and Replacement > Page 6272
14. Cover the opening of the pump with a piece of tape to prevent foreign material from entering
the pump. 15. Move the power steering pump toward the driver's side, then raise it.
16. Connect the pump inlet hose and pump outlet hose onto the new pump with a new O-ring. 17.
Loosely install the pump in the pump bracket with the mounting bolts, then tighten the pump fittings
securely. 18. Tighten the pump mounting bolts to the specified torque. 19. Install the drive belt (A).
20. Reinstall all removed parts. 21. Fill the reservoir to the upper level line.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Power Steering > Power Steering Pump > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Removal and Replacement > Page 6273
Pump Overhaul
Pump
Special Tools Required
^ Attachment, 32 x 35 mm 07746-0010100
^ Driver 07749-0010000
Disassembly
NOTE: Refer to the Exploded View as needed during the following procedure.
1. Drain the fluid from the power steering pump. 2. Remove the power steering pump.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Power Steering > Power Steering Pump > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Removal and Replacement > Page 6274
3. Hold the power steering pump (A) in a vise with soft jaws (B), hold the pulley (C) with the pulley
holder (D), and remove the pulley nut (E) and
pulley. Be careful not to damage the pump housing with the jaws of the vise.
4. Remove the inlet joint and O-ring. 5. Remove the pressure control valve cap, O-ring, pressure
control valve, and valve spring. 6. Remove the pump housing cap, O-ring, and pump preload
spring. 7. Remove the pump cover, O-ring, and pump cover seals. 8. Pull out the roll pin. 9.
Remove the outer case, cam ring, rotor, vanes, and side plate.
10. Remove the rubber seal and slipper seal from the outer case. 11. Remove the O-rings from the
bottom of the housing. 12. Remove the 40 mm internal snap ring, then remove the driveshaft by
tapping the shaft end with a soft face-hammer. 13. Remove the pump seal from the pump housing.
Inspection
14. Check the pressure control valve for wear, burrs, and other damage to the edges of the
grooves in the valve.
15. Inspect the bore of the pressure control valve on the pump housing for scratches and wear. 16.
Slip the pressure control valve back in the pump housing, and check that it moves in and out
smoothly. If OK, go to step 17; if not, replace the
pump as an, assembly. The pressure control valve is not available separately.
17. Attach a hose (A) to the end of the pressure control valve (B) as shown. Then submerge the
pressure control valve in a container of power steering
^ If air bubbles leak through the valve at less than 98 kPa (1.0 kgf/cm2, 14.2 psi), replace the pump
as an assembly. The pressure control valve is not available separately.
^ If the pressure control valve is OK, set it aside for reassembly later.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Power Steering > Power Steering Pump > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Removal and Replacement > Page 6275
18. Inspect the ball bearing by rotating the outer race slowly. If you feel any play (axial or radial) or
roughness, remove the faulty ball bearing (A), and
19. Inspect each part shown with an asterisk in the Exploded View; if any of them are worn or
damaged, replace the pump as an assembly.
Reassembly
20. Install the new pump seal (A) (with its grooved side facing in) into the pump housing (B) by
hand, then drive it in using the driver and the
attachment until the seal is fully seated in the pump housing. Do not apply more than 1,370 N (140
kgf, 308 lbf) of pressure.
21. Position the driveshaft (A) in the pump housing, then press it in with the appropriate size socket
wrench (B) as shown.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Power Steering > Power Steering Pump > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Removal and Replacement > Page 6276
22. Install the 40 mm internal snap ring (C) with its radiused edge facing out. 23. Coat the new 23.8
mm O-ring (A) with power steering fluid, then position it on the bottom (B) of the pump housing.
24. Coat the new cover seals (A) and new 13.0 mm O-ring (B) with power steering fluid, then
position them into the grooves on the cover (C).
25. Install the outer case (A) by aligning the slot (B) inside the outer case with the cover roll pin
hole (C). Be sure that the tapered side (D) of the outer
29. Insert the roll pin (D) into the slots between the cam ring and outer case, then push the roll pin
into the set hole (E). 30. Install the rotor (A) in the cam ring (B).
31. Set the 11 vanes (C) in the grooves in the rotor. Make sure that the round ends (D) of the
vanes are in contact with the sliding surface of the cam
ring.
32. Place the side plate (A) on the cam ring, and align the roll pin set hole (B) with the roll pin (C).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Power Steering > Power Steering Pump > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Removal and Replacement > Page 6278
33. Coat the new O-ring (D) with power steering fluid, then position it into the groove on the side
plate. 34. Install the pump housing (A) over the cover assembly (B).
35. Align the bolt holes in the cover (A) with the threaded holes in the pump housing. Install the
flange bolts loosely first, then torque the flange bolts
36. Push in the cam ring (A) from the pump housing cap hole (B) with a flat-tip screwdriver to make
sure the cam ring is fully seated against the outer
case.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Power Steering > Power Steering Pump > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Removal and Replacement > Page 6279
37. Install the pump preload spring (A) in the pump housing.
38. Coat the new 12.7 mm O-ring (B) with power steering fluid, and install it on the pump housing
cap (C). 39. Install the pump housing cap on the pump housing, and tighten it to the specified
torque. 40. Install the pressure control valve spring (A) in the pump housing.
41. Coat the pressure control valve (B) with power steering fluid, and install it in the pump housing.
42. Coat the new 16.7 mm O-ring (C) with power steering fluid, and install it on the pressure control
valve cap (D). 43. Install the pressure control valve cap on the pump housing, and tighten it to the
specified torque. 44. Coat the new O-ring (A) with power steering fluid, and install it on the inlet
joint (B).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Power Steering > Power Steering Pump > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Removal and Replacement > Page 6280
45. Install the inlet joint on the pump housing. 46. Install the pulley (A), then loosely install the
pulley nut (B). Hold the steering pump in a vise with soft jaws (C). Be careful not to damage the
47. Hold the pulley with the pulley holder, and tighten the pulley nut to the specified torque. 48.
Check that the pump turns smoothly by turning the pulley by hand. If it turns hard, loosen the four
flange bolts on the cover, then retighten them in
the same manner as in step 35. Retest. If the pump is still hard to turn, replace the pump.
The PSP switch signals the PCM when the power steering load is high.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Sensors and Switches - Steering > Power Steering
Pressure Switch > Component Information > Locations > Page 6288
1. Start the engine, and let it idle. 2. Align the steering wheel straight ahead. 3. Check the PSP
SWITCH in the DATA LIST with the HDS.
YES - Go to step 4.
NO - Go to step 14.
4. Turn the steering wheel to the full lock position. 5. Check the PSP SWITCH in the DATA LIST
with the HDS.
NO - Go to step 6.
6. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 7. Disconnect the PSP switch 2P connector. 8. Start the engine. 9.
Check the PSP SWITCH in the DATA LIST with the HDS.
NO - Go to step 10.
10. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 11. Jump the SCS line with the HDS. 12. Disconnect ECM/PCM
connector A (44P). 13. Check for continuity between PSP switch 2P connector terminal No. 1 and
body ground.
Is there continuity?
YES - Repair short in the wire between the ECM/PCM (A22) and the PSP switch.
NO - Update the ECM/PCM if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a known-good
ECM/PCM, then recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away with a known-good ECM/PCM,
replace the original ECM/PCM.
14. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 15. Disconnect the PSP switch 2P connector. 16. Connect PSP
switch 2P connector terminals No. 1 and No. 2 with a jumper wire, then start the engine.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Sensors and Switches - Steering > Power Steering
Pressure Switch > Component Information > Locations > Page 6289
17. Check the PSP SWITCH in the DATA LIST with the HDS.
NO - Go to step 18.
18. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 19. Remove the jumper wire from the PSP switch 2P connector.
20. Jump the SCS line with the HDS. 21. Disconnect ECM/PCM connector A (44P). 22. Connect
PSP switch 2P connector terminal No. 1 to body ground with a jumper wire.
23. Check for continuity between body ground and ECM/PCM connector terminal A22.
Is there continuity?
NO - Repair open in the wire between the PSP switch and the ECM/PCM (A22).
24. Check for continuity between PSP switch 2P connector terminal No. 2 and body ground.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Sensors and Switches - Steering > Power Steering
Pressure Switch > Component Information > Locations > Page 6290
Is there continuity?
YES - Update the ECM/PCM if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a known-good
ECM/PCM, then recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away with a known-good ECM/PCM,
replace the original ECM/PCM.
NO - Repair open in the wire between the PSP switch and G401.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Sensors and Switches - Steering > Power Steering
Pressure Switch > Component Information > Locations > Page 6291
General Precautions
Please read the following precautions carefully before performing the airbag system service. If the
instructions described are not properly followed, the airbags could accidentally deploy and cause
damage or injuries.
- Except when performing electrical inspections, always turn the ignition switch OFF, disconnect
the negative cable from the battery, then wait for 3 minutes before starting work.
NOTE: The SRS memory is not cleared even if the ignition switch is turned OFF or the battery
cables are disconnected from the battery.
- Use replacement parts which are manufactured to the same standards and quality as the original
parts. Do not install used SRS parts. Use only new parts when making SRS repairs.
- Carefully inspect any SRS part before you install it. Do not install any part that shows signs of
being dropped or improperly handled, such as dents, cracks or deformation.
- Before disconnecting the SRS unit connectors, always disconnect the appropriate SRS parts
connectors.
- Use only a digital multimeter to check the system. If it is not a Honda multimeter, make sure its
output is 10 mA (0.01 A) or less when switched to the lowest value in the ohmmeter range. A tester
with a higher output could cause accidental deployment and possible injury.
- The original audio and navigation system has a coded theft protection circuit. Make sure you have
the anti-theft codes for the audio system or the navigation system (if equipped), then write down
the audio presets before disconnecting the negative cable from the battery.
- Before returning the vehicle to the customer, enter the anti-theft codes for the audio system or the
navigation system (if equipped), then enter the audio presets; set the clock.
Steering-related Precautions
- Misalignment of the cable reel could cause an open in the wiring, making the SRS system, remote
steering wheel controls, and the horn inoperative. Center the cable reel whenever you do the
following. -
- If the cable reel shows any signs of damage, replace it with a new one. For example, if it does not
rotate smoothly, replace the cable reel.
Do not disassemble an airbag. It has no serviceable parts. Once an airbag has been deployed, it
cannot be repaired or reused.
For temporary storage of an airbag during service, observe the following precautions.
- Store the removed airbag with the pad surface up. Never put anything on the airbag.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Column > Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming >
System Information > Service and Repair > Page 6296
- To prevent damage to the airbag, keep it away from any oil, grease, detergent, or water.
- Store the removed airbag on a secure, flat surface away from any high heat source (exceeding
200 °F/93 °C)
- Do not position yourself in front of the airbag during removal, inspection, or replacement.
- The side curtain airbag inflator assembly is a long, jointed part containing an inflator (A), a flexible
bag (B), and brackets (C). When removing or installing the side curtain airbag assembly, never do
the following items: -
- Turn the ignition switch OFF, disconnect the negative cable from the battery then wait for 3
minutes before starting installation or replacement of the SRS unit, or disconnecting the connectors
from the SRS unit.
- Be careful not to bump or impact the SRS unit, front impact sensors, side impact sensors, or rear
safing sensor whenever the ignition switch is ON (II), or for at least 3 minutes after the ignition
switch is turned OFF.
- During installation or replacement, be careful not to bump (by impact wrench, hammer, etc.) the
area around the SRS unit, front impact sensors, the side impact sensors, or rear safing sensor. The
airbags could accidentally deploy and cause damage or injury.
- After a collision where a front airbag, side airbag or a seat belt tensioner, seat belt buckle
tensioner deployed, go to Component Replacement/Inspection After Deployment. See: Restraint
Systems/Air Bag Systems/Service and Repair After a collision where the airbags did not deploy,
inspect for any damage or any deformation on the SRS unit, front impact sensors, side impact
sensors, or rear safing sensor. If there is any damage, replace the SRS unit and/or the sensors.
- Do not disassemble the SRS unit, front impact sensors, side impact sensors, driver's seat position
sensor, front passenger's weight sensors, or rear safing sensor.
- Be sure the SRS unit, front impact sensors, side impact sensors, and rear safing sensor are
installed securely with the mounting bolts torqued to 9.8 N.m (1.0 kgf.m, 7.2 lbf.ft). Whenever you
remove or replace the SRS unit, safing sensor, or all impact sensors, always install the
components with new bolts.
- Do not spill water or oil on the SRS unit or the side impact sensors.
Wiring Precautions
Some of the SRS wiring can be identified by special yellow outer covering, and the SRS
connectors can be identified by their yellow color. Observe the instructions.
- Never attempt to modify, splice, or repair SRS wiring. If there is an open or damage in SRS
wiring, replace the harness.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Column > Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming >
System Information > Service and Repair > Page 6298
- Be sure to install the harness wires so they do not get pinched or interfere with other parts.
- Make sure all SRS ground locations are clean, and grounds are securely fastened for optimum
metal-to-metal contact. Poor grounds can cause intermittent problems that are difficult to diagnose.
- When using electrical test equipment, insert the probe of the tester into the wire side of the
connector. Do not insert the probe of the tester into the terminal side of the connector, and do not
tamper with the connector.
- Use specified service connectors in troubleshooting. Using improper tools could cause an error in
inspection due to poor metal-to-metal contact.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Column > Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming >
System Information > Service and Repair > Page 6299
Spring-loaded Lock Connector
Disconnecting
To release the lock, pull the spring-loaded sleeve (A) toward the stop (B) while holding the opposite
half of the connector. Then pull the connector halves apart. Be sure to pull on the sleeve and not
on the connector.
Connecting
To reconnect, hold the pawl-side connector, and press on the back of the sleeve-side connector in
the direction shown. As the two connector halves are pressed together, the sleeve (A) is pushed
back by the pawl (B). Do not touch the sleeve.
Disconnecting
To release the lock, pull the spring-loaded sleeve (A) toward the stop (B) while holding the opposite
half of the connector. Then pull the connector halves apart. Be sure to pull on the sleeve and not
on the connector half.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Column > Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming >
System Information > Service and Repair > Page 6300
Connecting
Hold both connector halves, and press them firmly together until the projection (A) of the
sleeve-side connector clicks.
NOTE:
- To prevent damaging of the connector cavity, insert the short canceller straight into the cavity
from the terminal side.
- Before installing the short canceller, wash it with electric contact cleaner, then dry it with
compressed air.
When SRS unit connectors A (28P) or B (28P) are disconnected, a short circuit is created in the
connector by its own function to prevent an airbag deployment. The circuit may need to be open
sometimes when diagnosis is done on the system. Insert the short canceller (070AZ-SAA0100) in
the specified cavities when it is necessary to keep the circuit open for diagnosis.
Terminal numbers are shown from the wire side of the female terminals. Insert the short
canceller(s) into the cavities on the terminal side of the connector.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Column > Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming >
System Information > Service and Repair > Page 6301
Seats with Side Airbags
Seats with side airbags have a "SIDE AIRBAG" label on the seat-back.
- When cleaning, use a damp cloth to clean the seat. Do not soak the seat with liquid, and do not
spray steam on the seat.
- Do not repair a torn or frayed seat-back cover. Replace the seat-back cover.
- After a collision where the side airbag was deployed, replace the side airbag and seat frame with
new parts. If the seat-back cushion is split, it must be replaced.
- Never put aftermarket accessories on the seat (covers, pads, seat heaters, lights, etc.).
Turn the ignition switch OFF disconnect the negative cable from the battery, then wait for 3 minutes
before starting the following procedures.
- Before disconnecting the cable reel 4P connector (1), disconnect the driver's airbag 4P connector
(2).
- Before disconnecting SRS unit connector B from SRS unit, disconnect both seat belt tensioner 4P
connectors and both seat belt buckle tensioner 4P connectors (3, 4, 5, 6).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Column > Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming >
System Information > Service and Repair > Page 6302
1. Turn the ignition switch OFF. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery, then wait for 3
minutes.
Driver's Airbag
2. Remove the access panel (A) from the steering wheel/then disconnect the driver's airbag 4P
connector (B) from the cable reel.
3. Remove the lower glove box, then disconnect the front passenger's airbag 4P connector (A)
from the dashboard wire harness.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Column > Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming >
System Information > Service and Repair > Page 6303
Side Airbag
4. Disconnect both side airbag 2P connectors (A) from the floor wire harness.
5. Remove the headliner. 6. Disconnect both floor wire harness 2P connectors (A) from the side
curtain airbags.
7. Remove the seat belt lower anchor. Disconnect both floor wire harness 4P connectors (A) from
the seat belt tensioners.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Column > Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming >
System Information > Service and Repair > Page 6304
Seat Belt Buckle Tensioner
8. Disconnect both floor wire harness 4P connectors (A) from the seat belt buckle tensioner.
SRS Unit
9. Disconnect both seat belt tensioner connectors and both seat belt buckle tensioner connectors.
Remove the center console. Disconnect SRS unit
connector A (28P) and SRS unit connector B (28P) from the SRS unit.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Column > Steering Column Cover >
Component Information > Service and Repair
Steering Column Cover: Service and Repair
NOTE: ^
1. Release the lock lever (A), and adjust the steering column to full tilt down position and to the full
telescopic out position.
2. Insert a suitable sized screwdriver or equivalent tool (B) along the guide rib (C) into the lever
hole (D) in the lower column cover (E). 3. Release the hook (F) located on the left side of the upper
column cover (G). A right side hook (H) of the upper column cover can't be released
4. Turn the steering wheel to left, and release the left pawl (I) of the upper column cover while
pushing the lower column cover from the front side. 5. Turn the steering wheel to the right, and
release the right pawl (J) of the upper column cover in the same way as in step 4. 6. Remove the
cover by lightly pulling it up by releasing the right side hook (H) of the upper column cover.
NOTICE: Carefully release the pawls, note the hooks (K) may break when the upper column cover
is pulled up too hard.
7. Remove the three screws, then remove the lower column cover (A).
8. Install the upper and lower column cover in the reverse order of removal, and push the hooks
into place securely.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Column > Steering Column Lock > Component
Information > Service and Repair
1. Remove the steering column. 2. Center-punch each of the two shear bolts, and drill the heads of
the bolts off with a 5 mm (3/16 in.) drill bit. Be careful not to damage the switch
body when removing the shear bolts.
3. Remove the shear bolts from the switch body. 4. Install the switch body without the key inserted.
5. Loosely tighten the new shear bolts. 6. Insert the ignition key, and make sure the steering wheel
lock works properly and that the ignition key turns freely. 7. Tighten the shear bolts (A) until the hex
heads (B) twist off.
8. Register the immobilizer control unit-receiver, and make sure the immobilizer system works
properly.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Gear > Steering Gear Mount > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Steering Gear Mount: > 09-028 > Jul > 09 > Steering -
Front End Pop/Clunk/Click On Turns
Steering Gear Mount: Customer Interest Steering - Front End Pop/Clunk/Click On Turns
09-028
Clunking, Popping, or Clicking Noise From the Front While Turning (Supersedes 09-028, dated
May 2, 2009, to revise the information marked by the black bars)
*REVISION SUMMARY A VEHICLES AFFECTED section was added, which includes expanded
VIN ranges for the 2008 Civic and the addition of certain 2009 Civics.*
SYMPTOM
There is a clunk, pop, or click coming from the front of the vehicle when making a left or right turn
at slow speeds.
PROBABLE CAUSE
*VEHICLES AFFECTED*
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request
consideration, and get a decision, before starting work.
DIAGNOSIS
Listen for clunking, popping, or clicking while turning lefi and right at slow speeds:
REPAIR PROCEDURE
2. Loosen all six of the the steering gearbox mounting bolts several turns.
3. Torque all of the mounting bolts half-tight, then torque all of them fully.
5. Test-drive the vehicle, turning lefi and right at slow speeds, to make sure the noise is gone.
Disclaimer
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Gear > Steering Gear Mount > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Steering Gear Mount: > 09-028 > Jul > 09 >
Steering - Front End Pop/Clunk/Click On Turns
Steering Gear Mount: All Technical Service Bulletins Steering - Front End Pop/Clunk/Click On
Turns
09-028
Clunking, Popping, or Clicking Noise From the Front While Turning (Supersedes 09-028, dated
May 2, 2009, to revise the information marked by the black bars)
*REVISION SUMMARY A VEHICLES AFFECTED section was added, which includes expanded
VIN ranges for the 2008 Civic and the addition of certain 2009 Civics.*
SYMPTOM
There is a clunk, pop, or click coming from the front of the vehicle when making a left or right turn
at slow speeds.
PROBABLE CAUSE
*VEHICLES AFFECTED*
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request
consideration, and get a decision, before starting work.
DIAGNOSIS
Listen for clunking, popping, or clicking while turning lefi and right at slow speeds:
REPAIR PROCEDURE
2. Loosen all six of the the steering gearbox mounting bolts several turns.
3. Torque all of the mounting bolts half-tight, then torque all of them fully.
5. Test-drive the vehicle, turning lefi and right at slow speeds, to make sure the noise is gone.
Disclaimer
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Gear > Steering Gear Mount > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 6327
1. Remove the steering gearbox. 2. Position the 34 mm socket wrench (A) on the flange part of the
gearbox housing with a washer (B), a 10 x 105 mm flange bolt (C) and a 10 mm
nut (D) as shown.
3. Hold the 10 mm nut with a wrench, and tighten the 10 x 105 mm flange bolt with another wrench.
Remove the gearbox mount cushion (E). 4. Apply a mild soap and water solution to the new
gearbox mount cushion surface (A), then place the mount cushion on the gearbox mounting
cushion hole.
5. Position the 34 mm socket wrench on the flange part of the gearbox housing with a washer, a
flange bolt, and a nut as shown. 6. Install the gearbox mount cushion by tightening the nut until the
mount cushion edges (B) contact the gearbox flange surface. 7. Install the steering gearbox.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Gear > Steering Rack Gear > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Steering Rack Gear: > 09-028 > Jul > 09 > Steering -
Front End Pop/Clunk/Click On Turns
Steering Rack Gear: Customer Interest Steering - Front End Pop/Clunk/Click On Turns
09-028
Clunking, Popping, or Clicking Noise From the Front While Turning (Supersedes 09-028, dated
May 2, 2009, to revise the information marked by the black bars)
*REVISION SUMMARY A VEHICLES AFFECTED section was added, which includes expanded
VIN ranges for the 2008 Civic and the addition of certain 2009 Civics.*
SYMPTOM
There is a clunk, pop, or click coming from the front of the vehicle when making a left or right turn
at slow speeds.
PROBABLE CAUSE
*VEHICLES AFFECTED*
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request
consideration, and get a decision, before starting work.
DIAGNOSIS
Listen for clunking, popping, or clicking while turning lefi and right at slow speeds:
REPAIR PROCEDURE
2. Loosen all six of the the steering gearbox mounting bolts several turns.
3. Torque all of the mounting bolts half-tight, then torque all of them fully.
5. Test-drive the vehicle, turning lefi and right at slow speeds, to make sure the noise is gone.
Disclaimer
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Gear > Steering Rack Gear > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Steering Rack Gear: > 09-028 > Jul > 09 >
Steering - Front End Pop/Clunk/Click On Turns
Steering Rack Gear: All Technical Service Bulletins Steering - Front End Pop/Clunk/Click On Turns
09-028
Clunking, Popping, or Clicking Noise From the Front While Turning (Supersedes 09-028, dated
May 2, 2009, to revise the information marked by the black bars)
*REVISION SUMMARY A VEHICLES AFFECTED section was added, which includes expanded
VIN ranges for the 2008 Civic and the addition of certain 2009 Civics.*
SYMPTOM
There is a clunk, pop, or click coming from the front of the vehicle when making a left or right turn
at slow speeds.
PROBABLE CAUSE
*VEHICLES AFFECTED*
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request
consideration, and get a decision, before starting work.
DIAGNOSIS
Listen for clunking, popping, or clicking while turning lefi and right at slow speeds:
REPAIR PROCEDURE
2. Loosen all six of the the steering gearbox mounting bolts several turns.
3. Torque all of the mounting bolts half-tight, then torque all of them fully.
5. Test-drive the vehicle, turning lefi and right at slow speeds, to make sure the noise is gone.
Disclaimer
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Shaft > Component Information > Testing and
Inspection
^ Check the steering column ball bearing (A) and the steering joint bearings (B) for play and proper
movement. If any bearing is noisy or has excessive play, replace the steering column as an
assembly.
^ Check the lower slide shaft (C) for smooth movement in and out. If the lower slide shaft is
removed, slip it into the upper shaft by aligning the paint or stamped marks (D). If it sticks or binds,
replace the steering column as an assembly.
^ Check the sliding capsules (E) for distortion or breakage. If there is distortion or breakage,
replace the steering column as an assembly.
^ Check the tilt mechanism and telescopic mechanism for movement and damage.
^ Check the absorbing plates (F) for distortion or breakage. If there is distortion or breakage,
replace the steering column as an assembly.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Wheel > Component Information > Service
and Repair > Steering Wheel Removal
Steering Wheel: Service and Repair Steering Wheel Removal
SRS components are located in this area. Review the SRS component locations and the
precautions and procedures before doing repairs or service.
1. Make sure you have the anti-theft code for the audio or navigation system, then write down the
audio presets. 2. Make sure the ignition switch is at LOCK (0), then disconnect the negative cable
from the battery. 3. Align the front wheels straight ahead, then remove the driver's airbag from the
steering wheel. 4. Disconnect the cable reel subharness connector (A).
5. Loosen the steering wheel bolt (B). 6. Install a commercially available steering wheel puller (A)
on the steering wheel (B). Free the steering wheel from the steering column shaft by
Do not tap on the steering wheel or the steering column shaft when removing the steering wheel.
^ If you thread the puller bolts (D) into the wheel hub more than five threads, the bolts will hit the
cable reel and damage it. To prevent this, install a pair of jam nuts five threads up on each puller
bolt.
7. Remove the steering wheel puller, then remove the steering wheel bolt and steering wheel from
the steering column.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Wheel > Component Information > Service
and Repair > Steering Wheel Removal > Page 6350
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Wheel > Component Information > Service
and Repair > Steering Wheel Removal > Page 6351
1. Before installing the steering wheel, make sure the front wheels are pointing straight ahead, then
center the cable reel (A). Do this by first rotating
the cable reel clockwise until it stops. Then rotate it counterclockwise about three full turns. The
arrow mark (B) on the cable reel label should point straight up.
2. Position the two tabs (A) of the turn signal canceling sleeve (B) as shown. Install the steering
wheel on to the steering column shaft, making sure
the steering wheel hub (C) engages the pins (D) of the cable reel and tabs of the turn signal
canceling sleeve. Do not tap on the steering wheel or steering column shaft when installing the
steering wheel.
3. Install the steering wheel bolt (A), and tighten it to the specified torque. Connect the cable reel
subharness connector (B). Make sure the wire
^ Turn the ignition switch to ON (II); the SRS indicator should come on for about 6 seconds and
then go off.
^ Enter the anti-theft code for the audio or navigation system (if equipped), then enter the audio
presets.
^ Make sure the horn and turn signal switches work properly.
^ Check the steering wheel spoke angle. If the steering spoke angles to the right and left are not
equal (steering wheel is not centered), correct the engagement of the wheel/column shaft
serrations.
^ Set the steering column to the center tilt position, and to the center telescopic position, then do
the front toe inspection. See: Alignment/Service and Repair
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Tie Rod > Tie Rod Boot > Component Information >
Service and Repair
Tie Rod Boot: Service and Repair
1. Disconnect the tie-rod ball joint from the knuckle. 2. Remove the tie-rod end from the rack end.
3. Remove the tie-rod ball joint boot from the tie-rod end, and wipe the old grease off the ball pin. 4.
Pack the lower area of the ball pin (A) with fresh multipurpose grease.
5. Pack the interior of the new tie-rod ball joint boot (B) and lip (C) with fresh multipurpose grease.
Keep grease off the boot mounting area (D) and the tapered section (E) of the ball pin.
^ Do not allow dust, dirt, or other foreign materials to enter the boot.
6. Install the new tie-rod ball joint boot (A) using the bushing base. The boot must not have a gap at
the boot installation sections (B). After installing
the boot, check the ball pin tapered section for grease contamination, and wipe it if necessary.
7. Install the tie-rod end to the rack end. 8. Connect the tie-rod ball joint to the knuckle: hydraulic
power steering type, EPS type. 9. Check the wheel alignment, and adjust it if necessary.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Ball Joint > Component Information > Specifications
Ball Joint: Specifications
NOTICE: Always use a ball joint remover to disconnect a ball joint. Do not strike the housing or any
other part of the ball joint connection to disconnect it.
07MAC-SL0A102 or 07MAC-SL0A202
1. Install a hex nut (A) onto the threads of the ball joint (B). Make sure the nut is flush with the ball
joint pin end to prevent damage to the threaded
2. Apply grease to the ball joint remover on the areas shown (A). This will ease installation of the
tool and prevent damage to the pressure bolt (B)
threads.
3. Loosen the pressure bolt (A), and install the ball joint remover as shown. Insert the jaws
carefully, making sure not to damage the ball joint boot.
4. After adjusting the adjusting bolt, make sure the head of the adjusting bolt is in the position
shown to allow the jaw (E) to pivot. 5. With a wrench, tighten the pressure bolt until the ball joint pin
pops loose from the ball joint connecting hole. If necessary, apply penetrating type
6. Remove the ball joint remover, then remove the nut from the end of the ball joint pin, and pull the
ball joint out of the ball joint connecting hole.
1. Remove the front wheel. 2. Remove the flange bolt and the self-locking nuts from the lower arm
(A).
3. Disconnect the lower ball joint (E) from the lower arm. 4. Remove the spindle nut, and remove
the outboard joint (A) from the knuckle (B) by tapping the driveshaft end (C) with a soft face
hammer while
5. Remove the lock pin (A) from the lower ball joint, then remove the castle nut (B).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Ball Joint > Component Information > Service and
Repair > Front and Rear Suspension > Page 6367
6. Disconnect the lower ball joint from the knuckle using the ball joint thread protector and the ball
joint remover, then remove the lower ball joint. 7. Install the lower ball joint in the reverse order of
removal, and note these items:
^ First install all the components, and lightly tighten the bolts and nuts, then raise the suspension to
load it with the vehicle's weight before fully tightening to the specified torque values.
^ Be careful not to damage the ball joint boot when connecting the knuckle.
^ Before connecting the lower ball joint to the knuckle, degrease the threaded section and tapered
portion of the ball joint pin, the ball joint connecting hole, the threaded section and mating surfaces
of the castle nut.
^ Torque the castle nut to the lower torque specification, then tighten it only far enough to align the
slot with the ball joint pin hole. Do not align the castle nut by loosening it.
^ Before installing the wheel, clean the mating surfaces of the brake disc and the inside of the
wheel.
Attachment, 40 mm 07GAF-SE00200
1. Remove the lower ball joint. 2. Remove the boot. 3. Pack the interior and lip (A) of a new boot
with grease. Keep the grease off of the boot-to-lower ball joint housing mating surfaces (B).
4. Wipe the grease off the tapered portion of the ball joint pin (C), and pack fresh grease into the
base (D). Do not let dirt or other foreign materials
5. Install the boot on the ball joint, then squeeze it gently to force out any air. 6. Press the boot with
the attachment until the bottom seats on the lower ball joint housing (A) all the way around.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Ball Joint > Component Information > Service and
Repair > Front and Rear Suspension > Page 6368
7. After installing a boot, wipe any grease off the exposed portion of the ball joint pin. 8. Install the
lower ball joint.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Control Arm > Component Information > Service
and Repair > Front Suspension
Control Arm: Service and Repair Front Suspension
Removal/installation
1. Raise the front of the vehicle, and support it with safety stands in the proper locations. 2.
Remove the front wheels. 3. Remove the flange nut (A) while holding the joint pin (B) with a hex
wrench (C), then disconnect both sides of the stabilizer link from the lower
arm (D).
4. Turn the stabilizer bar backward to gain easier access to the front side of the lower arm
mounting bolt. 5. Remove the flange bolt and the self-locking nuts from the lower arm (A).
6. Disconnect the lower ball joint (E) from the lower arm. 7. Remove the front side of the lower arm
mounting bolt (A).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Control Arm > Component Information > Service
and Repair > Front Suspension > Page 6373
8. Remove the rear side of the lower arm mounting bolt (B), then remove the lower arm (C) from
the front suspension subframe (D).
9. Install the lower arm in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
^ First install all the components, and lightly tighten the bolts and nuts, then raise the suspension
the lower ball joint to the to load it with the vehicle's weight before fully tightening to the specified
torque values.
^ Before installing the wheel, clean the mating surfaces of the brake disc and the inside of the
wheel.
Bushing Replacement
1. Press out the bushing (A) with the bushing driver, receiver set (attachment A), and a hydraulic
press, and remove the bushing from the lower arm
(B).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Control Arm > Component Information > Service
and Repair > Front Suspension > Page 6374
2. Clean the mating surfaces of the new bushing and the lower arm. 3. Position the tab (A) of the
bushing (B) with the lower arm (C) as shown.
4. Using a hydraulic press, bushing driver, and receiver set (attachments A and B), press in the
bushing into the lower arm. 5. Using a yellow oil-based paint marker, paint a mark (A) around the
hole (B) near the front bushing (C). Also paint a mark around the hole on the
1. Raise the rear of the vehicle, and support it with safety stands in the proper locations. 2. Remove
the rear wheel. 3. Position a floor jack at the connecting point of the trailing arm (A) and the knuckle
(B).
6. Install the upper arm in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
^ First install all the components, and lightly tighten the bolts, then raise the suspension to load it
with the vehicle's weight before fully tightening to the specified torque values.
^ Before installing the wheel, clean the mating surfaces of the brake disc or the brake drum and the
inside of the wheel.
2-door
4. Detach the floor wire harness clips (A). 5. Remove the bolts (B) and nuts (C), then remove the
middle cross-member gusset (D).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Cross-Member > Component Information > Service
and Repair > Middle Cross-Member Gusset Replacement > Page 6381
6. Install the gusset in the reverse order of removal. When installing the mounting bolts for the
middle cross-member gusset (A), torque the mounting
hardware in the sequence shown. If the mounting bolts are not torqued in this sequence, damage
to the quarter panel will occur.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Cross-Member > Component Information > Service
and Repair > Middle Cross-Member Gusset Replacement > Page 6382
Cross-Member: Service and Repair Rear Floor Upper Cross-Member Gusset Replacement
Knucle/Hub/Wheel Bearing
^ Attachment, 78 x 90 mm 07GAD-SD40101
^ Attachment, 62 x 68 mm 07746-0010500
Knuckle/Hub Replacement
1. Raise the front of the vehicle, and support it with safety stands in the proper locations. 2.
Remove the wheel nuts (A) and the front wheel.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Front Steering Knuckle > Component Information >
Service and Repair > Page 6386
3. Remove the brake hose mounting bolt (A) from the damper.
4. Remove the brake caliper bracket mounting bolts (B), then remove the caliper assembly (C) from
the knuckle. To prevent damage to the caliper
assembly or brake hose, use a short piece of wire to hang the caliper assembly from the
undercarriage. Do not twist the brake hose excessively.
5. Remove the wheel speed sensor (A) from the knuckle (B). Do not disconnect the wheel speed
sensor connector.
6. Raise the stake (A), then remove the spindle nut (B).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Front Steering Knuckle > Component Information >
Service and Repair > Page 6387
7. Remove the brake disc. 8. Check the front hub for damage and cracks. 9. Remove the cotter pin
(A) from the tie-rod end ball joint, then remove the nut (B).
10. Disconnect the tie-rod end ball joint from the knuckle using the ball joint remover. 11. Remove
the flange bolt and the self-locking nuts from the lower arm (A).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Front Steering Knuckle > Component Information >
Service and Repair > Page 6388
12. Disconnect the lower ball joint (E) from the lower arm. 13. Remove the damper pinch bolts (A)
and the self locking nuts (B) from the damper.
14. Remove the driveshaft outboard joint (C) from the knuckle (D) by tapping the driveshaft end (E)
with a soft face hammer while drawing the hub
NOTE: ^
Do not pull the driveshaft end outward. The driveshaft inboard joint may come apart.
^ During installation, apply grease to the mating surfaces of the wheel bearing and driveshaft
outboard joint.
15. Remove the lock pin (A) from the lower ball joint, then remove the castle nut (B).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Front Steering Knuckle > Component Information >
Service and Repair > Page 6389
16. Disconnect the lower ball joint (C) from the knuckle using the ball joint thread protector and the
ball joint remover. 17. Install the knuckle/hub in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
^ First install all the components, and lightly tighten the bolts and nuts, then raise the suspension to
load it with the vehicle's weight before fully tightening to the specified torque values.
^ Be careful not to damage the ball joint boot when connecting the knuckle.
^ Before connecting the lower ball joint to the knuckle, degrease the threaded section and tapered
portion of the ball joint pin, the ball joint connecting hole, the threaded section and mating surfaces
of the castle nut.
^ Torque the castle nut to the lower torque specification, then tighten it only far enough to align the
slot with the ball joint pin hole. Do not align the castle nut by loosening it.
^ Before installing the spindle nut, apply a small amount of engine oil to the seating surface of the
nut. After tightening, use a drift to stake the spindle nut shoulder against the driveshaft.
^ Before installing the brake disc, clean the mating surfaces of the front hub and the inside of the
brake disc.
^ Before installing the wheel, clean the mating surfaces of the brake disc and the inside of the
wheel.
1. Separate the hub (A) from the knuckle (B) using the hub dis/assembly tool and a hydraulic press.
Hold the knuckle with the attachment (C) of the
hydraulic press or equivalent tool. Be careful not to deform the splash guard (D). Hold onto the hub
to keep it from failing when pressed clear.
2. Press the wheel bearing inner race (A) off of the hub (B) using the hub dis/assembly tool, a
commercially available bearing separator (C), and a
press.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Front Steering Knuckle > Component Information >
Service and Repair > Page 6390
3. Remove the splash guard (A) and the snap ring (B) from the knuckle (C).
4. Press the wheel bearing (A) out of the knuckle (B) using the attachment, the driver, and a press.
5. Wash the knuckle and hub thoroughly in high flash point solvent before reassembly. 6. Press a
new wheel bearing (A) into the knuckle. (B) using the old bearing (C), a steel plate (D), the
attachment, the support base, and a press.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Front Steering Knuckle > Component Information >
Service and Repair > Page 6391
7. Install the snap ring (A) securely in the knuckle (B).
8. Install the splash guard (C), and tighten the screws (D) to the specified torque value. 9. Install
the hub (A) onto the knuckle (B) using the attachment, the driver, the support base, and a hydraulic
press. Be careful not to distort the
1. Raise the rear of the vehicle, and support it with safety stands in the proper locations. 2. Remove
the wheel nuts (A) and the rear wheel.
3. Remove the brake hose mounting bolt (A) from the bracket.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Rear Knuckle > Component Information > Service
and Repair > Page 6397
4. Remove the brake caliper bracket mounting bolts (B), then remove the caliper assembly (C) from
the knuckle. To prevent damage to the caliper
assembly or brake hose, use a short piece of wire to hang the caliper assembly from the
undercarriage. Do not twist the brake hose excessively.
6. Remove the brake disc. 7. Remove the hub bearing unit (A) and the O-ring (B).
8. Check the hub bearing unit for damage and cracks. 9. Install the hub bearing unit in the reverse
order of removal, and note these items:
^ Before installing the brake disc, clean the mating surfaces of the hub bearing unit and the inside
of the brake disc.
^ Before installing the wheel, clean the mating surfaces of the brake disc and the inside of the
wheel.
1. Raise the rear of the vehicle, and support it with safety stands in the proper locations. 2. Remove
the wheel nuts (A) and the rear wheel.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Rear Knuckle > Component Information > Service
and Repair > Page 6398
3. Release the parking brake, and remove the brake drum. 4. Remove the hub bearing unit (A) and
the O-ring (B).
5. Check the hub bearing unit for damage and cracks. 6. Install the hub bearing Unit in the reverse
order of removal, and note these items:
^ Before installing the brake drum, clean the mating surfaces of the hub bearing unit and the inside
of the brake drum.
^ Before installing the wheel, clean the mating surfaces of the brake drum and the inside of the
wheel.
1. Remove the hub bearing unit. 2. Remove the splash guard (A).
3. Remove the wheel speed sensor (A), and the brake hose mounting bracket (B) from the knuckle
(C). Do not disconnect the wheel speed sensor
connector.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Rear Knuckle > Component Information > Service
and Repair > Page 6399
4. Remove the parking brake cable mounting bolt (E) from the knuckle. 5. Place a floor jack under
the trailing arm to support it.
NOTE: Do not place the jack against the plate section of the lower arm. Be careful not to damage
any suspension components.
6. Remove the upper arm mounting bolt (A), and disconnect the upper arm (B) from the knuckle.
7. Remove the rear knuckle upper bracket (C). 8. Mark the cam positions of the adjusting bolt (A)
and the adjusting cam plate (B), then remove the self locking nut (C), the adjusting cam plate, and
10. Install the knuckle in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
^ First install all the components, and lightly tighten the bolts and nuts, then raise the suspension to
load it with the vehicle's weight before fully tightening to the specified torque values.
^ Align the cam positions of the adjusting bolt and the adjusting cam plate with the marked
positions when tightening.
^ Before installing the wheel, clean the mating surfaces of the brake disc and the inside of the
wheel.
1. Remove the hub bearing unit. 2. Disconnect the brake line (A) from the wheel cylinder (B).
Remove the backing plate (C) with brake shoes assembly from the knuckle.
3. Remove the wheel speed sensor (A), and the brake hose mounting bracket (B) from the knuckle
(C). Do not disconnect the wheel speed sensor
connector.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Rear Knuckle > Component Information > Service
and Repair > Page 6401
4. Place a floor jack under the trailing arm to support it.
NOTE: Do not place the jack against the plate section of the lower arm. Be careful not to damage
any suspension components,
5. Remove the upper arm mounting bolt (A), and disconnect the upper arm (B) from the knuckle.
6. Remove the rear knuckle upper bracket (C). 7. Mark the cam positions of the adjusting bolt W
and the adjusting cam plate (B), then remove the self locking nut (C), the adjusting cam plate, and
9. Install the knuckle in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
^ First install all the components, and lightly tighten the bolts and nuts, then raise the suspension to
load it with the vehicle's weight before fully tightening to the specified torque values.
^ Align the cam positions of the adjusting bolt and the adjusting cam plate with the marked-,
positions when tightening.
^ Before installing the wheel, clean the mating surfaces of the brake drum and the inside of the
wheel.
^ Fill the master cylinder reservoir to the MAX (upper) level line, and bleed the brake system.
Check for a leak at the brake hose/line joint, and retighten it if necessary.
1. Raise the front of the vehicle, and support it with safety stands in the proper locations. 2.
Remove the front wheel. 3. Remove the self-locking nut (A) and the flange nut (B) while holding the
respective joint pin (C) with a hex wrench (D), then remove the stabilizer
link (E).
4. Install the stabilizer link on the stabilizer bar (F) and the lower arm (G) with the joint pins set at
the center of their range of movement.
NOTE: The stabilizer link has a paint mark (H). Align the paint mark on the stabilizer link facing
rearward.
5. Install the new self-locking nut and the new flange nut, and lightly tighten them. 6. Place a jack
under the lower arm, and raise the suspension to load it with the vehicle's weight 7. Tighten the
self-locking nut and the flange nut to the specified torque values while holding the respective joint
pin with a hex wrench. 8. Clean the mating surfaces of the brake disc and the inside of the wheel,
then install be the front wheel, and test-drive the vehicle. 9. After 5 minutes of driving, torque the
self-locking nut again to the specified torque value.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Stabilizer Bar, Sway Control > Stabilizer Link >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Front Suspension > Page 6408
1. Raise the rear of the vehicle, and support it with safety stands in the proper locations. 2. Remove
the rear wheel. 3. Remove the self-locking nut (A) and the flange nut (B) while holding the
respective joint pin (C) with a hex wrench (D), then remove the stabilizer
link (E).
4. Install the stabilizer link on the stabilizer bar (F) and trailing arm (G) with the joint pins set at the
center of their range of movement.
NOTE: The stabilizer link has a paint mark (H). Align the paint mark on the stabilizer link facing
rearward.
5. Install the new self-locking nut and the new flange nut, and lightly tighten them. 6. Place a floor
jack under the trailing arm, and raise the suspension to load it with the vehicle's weight. 7. Tighten
the self-locking nut and the flange nut to the specified torque values while holding the respective
joint pin with a hex wrench. 8. Clean the mating surfaces of the brake disc or the brake drum and
the inside of the wheel, then install the rear wheel, and test drive the vehicle. 9. After 5 minutes of
driving, torque the self-locking nut again to the specified torque value.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Strut / Shock Tower > Component Information >
Service and Repair
Removal
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Strut / Shock Tower > Component Information >
Service and Repair > Page 6412
- Remove the wheelhouse upper member, and replace the upper member separator.
- If necessary, replace the damper housing, damper housing extension and front damper extension
A as an assembly.
Installation
1. Clamp the new damper housing, front wheelhouse, front damper extension, front bulkhead, and
measure the front compartment diagonally. 2. Check the body dimensions.
- Engine compartment
3. Tack weld the new parts and front bulkhead into position. 4. Temporarily install the front
subframe, and check the front side frame position. 5. Temporarily install the hood, front fender,
headlight, and front bumper, then check for differences in level and clearance. Make sure the body
lines
flow smoothly.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Strut / Shock Tower > Component Information >
Service and Repair > Page 6414
6. Do the main welding.
- Weld the damper housing (A), front wheelhouse (B), front damper extension A (C) and front
damper extension B (D).
- From the passenger's side, plug weld the holes in the dashboard lower (E) and damper housing
extension (F).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Strut / Shock Tower > Component Information >
Service and Repair > Page 6415
7. Weld the front damper extension B (A) and front end outrigger (B).
Passenger's Side
8. Install the new upper member separator (A) to the damper extension bulkhead (B).
NOTE: Apply the sealer (C) all the way around the separator and inside of the wheelhouse upper
member (D), without gaps.
Subframe Replacement
NOTE:
- After loosening the subframe mounting bolts, be sure to replace them with new ones.
- When installing, align both Installation reference holes in the subframe with both reference holes
in the body using a screwdriver or tapered punch as a guide.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Suspension Spring ( Coil / Leaf ) > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Removal and Replacement
Front Suspension
1. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), then turn on the windshield wipers. Turn the ignition switch to
LOCK (0) when the wipers are near the
A-pillars.
2. Raise the front of the vehicle, and support it with safety stands in the proper locations. 3.
Remove the front wheel. 4. Remove the wheel sensor harness clip (A) and the brake hose bracket
(B) from the damper. Do not disconnect the wheel sensor connector.
5. Remove the damper pinch bolts (A) and self locking nuts (B) from the damper.
Installation
3. Loosely install new damper pinch bolts (A) and new self-locking nuts (B) to the damper (C).
4. Raise the front suspension with a floor jack to load the suspension with the vehicle's weight. 5.
Tighten the flange nuts on top of the damper to the specified torque value. 6. Tighten the damper
pinch bolts to the specified torque value.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Suspension Spring ( Coil / Leaf ) > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Removal and Replacement > Page 6425
7. Install the wheel speed sensor harness clip (A) and the brake hose bracket (B) to the damper
(C).
8. Install the service cap and the lid. 9. Clean the mating surfaces of the brake disc and the inside
of the wheel, then install the front wheel.
10. Check the wheel alignment, and adjust it if necessary. 11. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II),
then turn the windshield wipers to the default positions, and turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0).
Rear Suspension
Spring Replacement
Spring
Removal
1. Raise the rear of the vehicle, and support it with safety stands in the proper locations.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Suspension Spring ( Coil / Leaf ) > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Removal and Replacement > Page 6426
2. Remove the rear wheel. 3. Remove the wheel speed sensor (A) from the knuckle (B). Do not
disconnect the wheel speed sensor connector.
4. Remove the brake hose mounting bolt (C) from the bracket. 5. Position a floor jack at the
connecting point of the trailing arm (A) and the knuckle (B).
6. Remove the flange bolt (C) that connects the trailing arm and the damper (D). 7. Disconnect the
stabilizer link from the trailing arm. 8. Remove the flange bolt (A) that connects the knuckle (B) and
the upper arm (C).
Installation
1. Install the spring mounting rubber (A), the spring, (B) and the lower spring seat (C).
2. Align the bottom of the spring (A) and the lower spring seat (B) with the trailing arm (C) as
shown.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Suspension Spring ( Coil / Leaf ) > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Removal and Replacement > Page 6428
3. Loosely install the new trailing arm front mounting bolts (A).
4. Loosely install the new flange bolt (A) that connects the knuckle (B) and the upper arm (C).
5. Slowly raise the jack until you can align the bolt hole with the holes in the trailing arm (A) and the
damper (B), and install the new flange bolt (C).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Suspension Spring ( Coil / Leaf ) > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Removal and Replacement > Page 6429
6. Install the stabilizer link on the trailing arm with the new flange nut, and lightly tighten it. 7. Raise
the rear suspension with a floor jack to load the vehicle weight. 8. Tighten all mounting hardware to
the specified torque values. For stabilizer link torque specifications. 9. Install the wheel speed
sensor (A) and the brake hose (B).
10. Clean the mating surfaces of the brake disc or the brake drum and the inside of the wheel, then
install the rear wheel. 11. Check the wheel alignment, and adjust it if necessary.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Suspension Spring ( Coil / Leaf ) > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Removal and Replacement > Page 6430
Damper/Spring
NOTE: When compressing the damper spring, use a commercially available strut spring
compressor (Branick MST-580A or Model 7200, or equivalent) according to the manufacturer's
instructions.
Disassembly
(C). Do not compress the spring more than necessary to remove the nut.
3. Release the pressure from the strut spring compressor, then disassemble the damper as shown
in the Exploded View.
Inspection
1. Reassemble the damper mounting base and the self-locking nut. 2. Compress the damper
assembly by hand, and check for smooth operation through a full stroke, both compression and
extension. The damper
should extend smoothly and constantly when compression is released. If it does not the gas is
leaking and the damper should be replaced.
3. Check for oil leaks, abnormal noises, or binding during these tests.
Reassembly
1. Install the damper spring (A) on the upper spring mounting cushion (B) by aligning the upper end
(C) of the damper spring with the ledge portion
4. Align the bottom of the spring (B) and the stepped part of the lower spring seat (C). 5. Align the
damper bracket (A) and the damper mounting base (B) so that the "triangle" stamp (C) points
toward the front.
6. Align the angle of the strut bolt (D) on the damper bracket as shown. 7. Install the new
self-locking nut (A).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Suspension Spring ( Coil / Leaf ) > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Removal and Replacement > Page 6433
8. Hold the damper shaft using a hex wrench (B), and tighten the self-locking nut using the strut nut
adapter (C) to the specified torque value. 9. Install the cap.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Suspension Strut / Shock Absorber > Strut Housing
> Component Information > Service and Repair
Strut Housing: Service and Repair
Symbols
The symbols in the mass production body welding diagrams and in the removal/installation carry
the following meanings
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Suspension Strut / Shock Absorber > Strut Housing
> Component Information > Service and Repair > Page 6438
Removal
- Remove the wheelhouse upper member, and replace the upper member separator.
- If necessary, replace the damper housing, damper housing extension and front damper extension
A as an assembly.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Suspension Strut / Shock Absorber > Strut Housing
> Component Information > Service and Repair > Page 6440
Installation
1. Clamp the new damper housing, front wheelhouse, front damper extension, front bulkhead, and
measure the front compartment diagonally. 2. Check the body dimensions.
- Engine compartment.
- Engine/transmission mount positions.
3. Tack weld the new parts and front bulkhead into position. 4. Temporarily install the front
subframe, and check the front side frame position. 5. Temporarily install the hood, front fender,
headlight, and front bumper, then check for differences in level and clearance. Make sure the body
lines
flow smoothly.
- Weld the damper housing (A), front wheelhouse (B), front damper extension A (C) and front
damper extension B (D).
- From the passenger's side, plug weld the holes in the dashboard lower (E) and damper housing
extension (F).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Suspension Strut / Shock Absorber > Strut Housing
> Component Information > Service and Repair > Page 6441
7. Weld the front damper extension B (A) and front end outrigger (B).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Suspension Strut / Shock Absorber > Strut Housing
> Component Information > Service and Repair > Page 6442
Passenger's side
8. Install the new upper member separator (A) to the damper extension bulkhead (B).
NOTE: Apply the sealer (C) all the way around the separator and inside of the wheelhouse upper
member (D), without gaps.
1. Raise the rear of the vehicle, and support it with safety stands in the proper locations. 2. Remove
the rear wheel. 3. Remove the rear floor under cover. 4. Remove the parking brake cable mounting
bolt (A) from the trailing arm (B).
5. Position a floor jack at the connecting point of the trailing arm (A) and the knuckle (B).
6. Remove the knuckle with the hub bearing unit: Disc brake type, drum brake type. 7. Disconnect
the stabilizer link from the trailing arm. 8. Remove the spring. 9. Remove the trailing arm rear
mounting bolt (A).
^ First install all the components, and lightly tighten the bolts, then raise the suspension to load it
with the vehicle's weight before fully tightening to the specified torque values.
^ Before installing the wheel, clean the Mating surfaces of the brake disc or the brake drum and the
inside of the wheel.
1. Raise the vehicle, and support it with safety stands in the proper locations. 2. Remove the
wheels. 3. Install suitable flat washers (A) and the wheel nuts. Tighten the nuts to the specified
torque to hold the brake disc or the, brake drum securely
4. Attach the dial gauge. Place the dial gauge against the hub flange. 5. Measure the bearing end
play by moving the brake disc or the brake drum inward and outward.
Front/Rear:
6. If the bearing end play measurement is more than the standard, replace the wheel bearing or the
hub bearing unit.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Wheel Bearing > Component Information > Service
and Repair > Front Suspension
Knucle/Hub/Wheel Bearing
^ Attachment, 78 x 90 mm 07GAD-SD40101
^ Attachment, 62 x 68 mm 07746-0010500
Knuckle/Hub Replacement
1. Raise the front of the vehicle, and support it with safety stands in the proper locations.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Wheel Bearing > Component Information > Service
and Repair > Front Suspension > Page 6452
2. Remove the wheel nuts (A) and the front wheel.
3. Remove the brake hose mounting bolt (A) from the damper.
4. Remove the brake caliper bracket mounting bolts (B), then remove the caliper assembly (C) from
the knuckle. To prevent damage to the caliper
assembly or brake hose, use a short piece of wire to hang the caliper assembly from the
undercarriage. Do not twist the brake hose excessively.
5. Remove the wheel speed sensor (A) from the knuckle (B). Do not disconnect the wheel speed
sensor connector.
6. Raise the stake (A), then remove the spindle nut (B).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Wheel Bearing > Component Information > Service
and Repair > Front Suspension > Page 6453
7. Remove the brake disc. 8. Check the front hub for damage and cracks. 9. Remove the cotter pin
(A) from the tie-rod end ball joint, then remove the nut (B).
10. Disconnect the tie-rod end ball joint from the knuckle using the ball joint remover. 11. Remove
the flange bolt and the self-locking nuts from the lower arm (A).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Wheel Bearing > Component Information > Service
and Repair > Front Suspension > Page 6454
12. Disconnect the lower ball joint (E) from the lower arm. 13. Remove the damper pinch bolts (A)
and the self locking nuts (B) from the damper.
14. Remove the driveshaft outboard joint (C) from the knuckle (D) by tapping the driveshaft end (E)
with a soft face hammer while drawing the hub
NOTE: ^
Do not pull the driveshaft end outward. The driveshaft inboard joint may come apart.
^ During installation, apply grease to the mating surfaces of the wheel bearing and driveshaft
outboard joint.
15. Remove the lock pin (A) from the lower ball joint, then remove the castle nut (B).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Wheel Bearing > Component Information > Service
and Repair > Front Suspension > Page 6455
16. Disconnect the lower ball joint (C) from the knuckle using the ball joint thread protector and the
ball joint remover. 17. Install the knuckle/hub in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
^ First install all the components, and lightly tighten the bolts and nuts, then raise the suspension to
load it with the vehicle's weight before fully tightening to the specified torque values.
^ Be careful not to damage the ball joint boot when connecting the knuckle.
^ Before connecting the lower ball joint to the knuckle, degrease the threaded section and tapered
portion of the ball joint pin, the ball joint connecting hole, the threaded section and mating surfaces
of the castle nut.
^ Torque the castle nut to the lower torque specification, then tighten it only far enough to align the
slot with the ball joint pin hole. Do not align the castle nut by loosening it.
^ Before installing the spindle nut, apply a small amount of engine oil to the seating surface of the
nut. After tightening, use a drift to stake the spindle nut shoulder against the driveshaft.
^ Before installing the brake disc, clean the mating surfaces of the front hub and the inside of the
brake disc.
^ Before installing the wheel, clean the mating surfaces of the brake disc and the inside of the
wheel.
1. Separate the hub (A) from the knuckle (B) using the hub dis/assembly tool and a hydraulic press.
Hold the knuckle with the attachment (C) of the
hydraulic press or equivalent tool. Be careful not to deform the splash guard (D). Hold onto the hub
to keep it from failing when pressed clear.
2. Press the wheel bearing inner race (A) off of the hub (B) using the hub dis/assembly tool, a
commercially available bearing separator (C), and a
press.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Wheel Bearing > Component Information > Service
and Repair > Front Suspension > Page 6456
3. Remove the splash guard (A) and the snap ring (B) from the knuckle (C).
4. Press the wheel bearing (A) out of the knuckle (B) using the attachment, the driver, and a press.
5. Wash the knuckle and hub thoroughly in high flash point solvent before reassembly. 6. Press a
new wheel bearing (A) into the knuckle. (B) using the old bearing (C), a steel plate (D), the
attachment, the support base, and a press.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Wheel Bearing > Component Information > Service
and Repair > Front Suspension > Page 6457
7. Install the snap ring (A) securely in the knuckle (B).
8. Install the splash guard (C), and tighten the screws (D) to the specified torque value. 9. Install
the hub (A) onto the knuckle (B) using the attachment, the driver, the support base, and a hydraulic
press. Be careful not to distort the
1. Raise the rear of the vehicle, and support it with safety stands in the proper locations. 2. Remove
the wheel nuts (A) and the rear wheel.
3. Remove the brake hose mounting bolt (A) from the bracket.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Wheel Bearing > Component Information > Service
and Repair > Front Suspension > Page 6461
4. Remove the brake caliper bracket mounting bolts (B), then remove the caliper assembly (C) from
the knuckle. To prevent damage to the caliper
assembly or brake hose, use a short piece of wire to hang the caliper assembly from the
undercarriage. Do not twist the brake hose excessively.
6. Remove the brake disc. 7. Remove the hub bearing unit (A) and the O-ring (B).
8. Check the hub bearing unit for damage and cracks. 9. Install the hub bearing unit in the reverse
order of removal, and note these items:
^ Before installing the brake disc, clean the mating surfaces of the hub bearing unit and the inside
of the brake disc.
^ Before installing the wheel, clean the mating surfaces of the brake disc and the inside of the
wheel.
1. Raise the rear of the vehicle, and support it with safety stands in the proper locations. 2. Remove
the wheel nuts (A) and the rear wheel.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Wheel Bearing > Component Information > Service
and Repair > Front Suspension > Page 6462
3. Release the parking brake, and remove the brake drum. 4. Remove the hub bearing unit (A) and
the O-ring (B).
5. Check the hub bearing unit for damage and cracks. 6. Install the hub bearing Unit in the reverse
order of removal, and note these items:
^ Before installing the brake drum, clean the mating surfaces of the hub bearing unit and the inside
of the brake drum.
^ Before installing the wheel, clean the mating surfaces of the brake drum and the inside of the
wheel.
1. Remove the hub bearing unit. 2. Remove the splash guard (A).
3. Remove the wheel speed sensor (A), and the brake hose mounting bracket (B) from the knuckle
(C). Do not disconnect the wheel speed sensor
connector.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Wheel Bearing > Component Information > Service
and Repair > Front Suspension > Page 6463
4. Remove the parking brake cable mounting bolt (E) from the knuckle. 5. Place a floor jack under
the trailing arm to support it.
NOTE: Do not place the jack against the plate section of the lower arm. Be careful not to damage
any suspension components.
6. Remove the upper arm mounting bolt (A), and disconnect the upper arm (B) from the knuckle.
7. Remove the rear knuckle upper bracket (C). 8. Mark the cam positions of the adjusting bolt (A)
and the adjusting cam plate (B), then remove the self locking nut (C), the adjusting cam plate, and
10. Install the knuckle in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
^ First install all the components, and lightly tighten the bolts and nuts, then raise the suspension to
load it with the vehicle's weight before fully tightening to the specified torque values.
^ Align the cam positions of the adjusting bolt and the adjusting cam plate with the marked
positions when tightening.
^ Before installing the wheel, clean the mating surfaces of the brake disc and the inside of the
wheel.
1. Remove the hub bearing unit. 2. Disconnect the brake line (A) from the wheel cylinder (B).
Remove the backing plate (C) with brake shoes assembly from the knuckle.
3. Remove the wheel speed sensor (A), and the brake hose mounting bracket (B) from the knuckle
(C). Do not disconnect the wheel speed sensor
connector.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Wheel Bearing > Component Information > Service
and Repair > Front Suspension > Page 6465
4. Place a floor jack under the trailing arm to support it.
NOTE: Do not place the jack against the plate section of the lower arm. Be careful not to damage
any suspension components,
5. Remove the upper arm mounting bolt (A), and disconnect the upper arm (B) from the knuckle.
6. Remove the rear knuckle upper bracket (C). 7. Mark the cam positions of the adjusting bolt W
and the adjusting cam plate (B), then remove the self locking nut (C), the adjusting cam plate, and
9. Install the knuckle in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
^ First install all the components, and lightly tighten the bolts and nuts, then raise the suspension to
load it with the vehicle's weight before fully tightening to the specified torque values.
^ Align the cam positions of the adjusting bolt and the adjusting cam plate with the marked-,
positions when tightening.
^ Before installing the wheel, clean the mating surfaces of the brake drum and the inside of the
wheel.
^ Fill the master cylinder reservoir to the MAX (upper) level line, and bleed the brake system.
Check for a leak at the brake hose/line joint, and retighten it if necessary.
Spindle Nut
Knucle/Hub/Wheel Bearing
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Vehicle Lifting > Component Information >
Service and Repair
Vehicle Lifting: Service and Repair
NOTE: If you are going to remove heavy components such as the suspension or the fuel tank from
the rear of the vehicle, first support the front of the vehicle with tall safety stands. When substantial
weight is removed from the rear of the vehicle, the center of gravity can change, causing the
vehicle to tip forward on the lift.
Vehicle Lift
1. Position the lift blocks (A) under the vehicle's front support points (B) and rear support points (C).
2. Raise the lift a few inches, and rock the vehicle gently to be sure it is firmly supported. 3. Raise
the lift to its full height, and inspect the vehicle support points for solid contact with the lift blocks.
Safety Stands
To support the vehicle on safety stands, use the same support points (B and C) as for a vehicle lift.
Always use safety stands when working on or under any vehicle that is supported only by a jack.
Floor Jack
1. When lifting the front of the vehicle, set the parking brake. When lifting the rear of the vehicle,
put the shift lever in reverse for manual
2. Block the wheels that are not being lifted. 3. Position the floor jack under the front jacking
bracket (A) or the rear jacking bracket (B). Center the jacking bracket on the jack lift platform (C),
and jack up the vehicle high enough to fit the safety stands under it.
4. Position the safety stands under the support points, and adjust them so the vehicle is level. 5.
Lower the vehicle onto the stands.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Relays and Modules - Wheels and Tires > Tire
Pressure Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tire Monitor System - VT55 TPMS Update
Information
Tire Pressure Module: Technical Service Bulletins Tire Monitor System - VT55 TPMS Update
Information
09-070
INTRODUCTION
The software for the VT55 TPMS tool is updated periodically to add new vehicles, fix software
bugs, and enhance the tool's function. You can use the ATEQ update wizard to download software
and firmware to your VT55 using a PC and the Internet. It is extremely important to use the latest
VT55 software to ensure that the current TPMS initialization and diagnostic procedures are used.
American Honda is also introducing a new policy to ensure that VT55 tools are updated promptly.
The VT55 software must now be updated within 3 days of receiving notification of an available
update from an iN message or other Honda communication. If an out-of-date version is used, any
TPMS replacements may not be covered under warranty.
^ VT55 Tool Kit (includes VT55, AC adapter, USB cable and CD): P/N AEQVT55
P/N AEQVT555
^ Internet access
To order the VT55, or the USB connector, go to the Honda Tool and Equipment catalog on the iN
(select Service > Service Bay > Tool and Equipment > Online Catalog), or call.
SOFTWARE VERSION
To check the VT55 version software, turn on the unit and the version number appears for about 2
seconds during the startup process. If you miss it, turn the VT55 off by pressing and holding the
power switch for about 2 seconds, then turn it back on.
1. Go online to
update.ateq.com/software/webvt/update_webvt.zip
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Relays and Modules - Wheels and Tires > Tire
Pressure Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tire Monitor System - VT55 TPMS Update
Information > Page 6480
2. Depending on your Internet connection, the Connect to update screen may appear. If so, enter
the login and password.
Login: webvt
Password: update
3. The File Download screen appears. Select Save. The Zip file will be saved to your computer.
4. After the Zip file finishes downloading, open the update - webvt.zip file by double-clicking on it.
5. The WinZip - update - webvt.zip screen appears. Double-click the WebVT55_V4_2.exe file.
NOTE:
If you see a Compressed (Zipped) Folders Error, contact your IT person because there is a
permissions issue with your firewall.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Relays and Modules - Wheels and Tires > Tire
Pressure Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tire Monitor System - VT55 TPMS Update
Information > Page 6481
6. The WinZip Caution screen appears. Select Yes.
7. If you have a previous version of the WebVT software installed on your computer, the
InstallShield Wizard gives you the option to modify, repair, or
If you have a previous software version, select Modify, then Next. After the software is modified
select Finish.
11. The InstallShield Wizard will prompt you when WebVT is installed on your computer. Select
Finish.
12. The serial emulation port driver installer screen appears. Connect your VT55, and turn it on.
Select Next.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Relays and Modules - Wheels and Tires > Tire
Pressure Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tire Monitor System - VT55 TPMS Update
Information > Page 6483
13. After a few seconds, the serial emulation port driver installer prompts you when it is finished.
Select Finish.
14. If you have any problems installing the VT55 update software, call ATEQ at 734-838-3100, and
select option 2 for service.
NOTE:
^ Some screens may list the tool as VT5O or VT55. This is OK; it will not affect updating the tool.
^ If at any time during the update an error message appears, or the VT55 is not detected, see the
Standard User Guide that is on the ATEQ CD that came with the tool, or call ATEQ at
734-838-3100, and select option 2 for service.
1. Go to your desktop, and double-click the WebVT icon to launch the VT55 update software.
2. Connect the VT55 to your PC with the USB cable, then turn it on. The serial number and current
software version automatically display.
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Pressure Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tire Monitor System - VT55 TPMS Update
Information > Page 6484
3. The Found New Hardware Wizard may appear. If it does, select Yes, now and every time I
connect a device, then select Next.
4. The Found New Hardware Wizard prompts you to install the ATEQ R5232 Emulation software.
Select Install the software automatically
5. The Found New Hardware Wizard will prompt you when the software is installed. Select Finish.
6. Select UPDATE DEVICE. Depending on your Internet connection, you may be prompted for a
login and password. If you know your login and
password, enter them, otherwise, contact your administrator or internet service provider for the
login and password.
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Pressure Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tire Monitor System - VT55 TPMS Update
Information > Page 6485
7. If a new software version is available, you'll see a message asking if you want to update the
VT55. Select Yes.
NOTE:
Do not disconnect the VT55 during the update procedure, as you may permanently damage the
tool.
If no new software version is available, you'll see a message asking if you want to overwrite the
existing software. Select No.
8. The Dealer Identification screen appears. Enter your 6-digit dealer number, then select Apply.
9. If the dealer number is valid, your dealership's name and address appears in the dealer
information box. Select NEXT.
If the dealership number is not valid, call the American Honda Special Tools Hotline for assistance.
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Pressure Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tire Monitor System - VT55 TPMS Update
Information > Page 6486
10. The VT55 begins updating. When the VT55 is finished updating, you'll see a message stating
the update is done. Disconnect the VT55, then select
OK.
11. Let the VT55 turn off (for about 1 minute). Turn it on, and confirm that the software is updated
to the software version listed under SOFTWARE
VERSION.
12. If you have more than one VT55, repeat the update procedure for each unit.
13. Once all VT55s are updated, select EXIT, and store the USB cable in a safe location for future
updates.
Disclaimer
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Pressure Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 6487
NOTE: Make sure the TPMS control unit mounting bracket is not bent or twisted as this may affect
its communication with the tire pressure sensors.
1. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). 2. Remove the driver's dashboard undercover. 3.
Disconnect the TPMS control unit connector (A).
4. Remove the TPMS control unit (B) from the bracket (C).
NOTE: While separating the TPMS control unit from the bracket, add in a flat-tipped screwdriver
between the TPMS control unit and the bracket at shown aria (D) to release the hook (E), and slide
out the TPMS control unit from the bracket.
5. Replace the bracket if necessary. 6. Install the TPMS control unit in the reverse order of
removal.
NOTE: Make sure the TPMS control unit is properly installed. You will hear a click when the TPMS
control unit is securely mounted on the bracket.
7. Connect the HDS, and memorize the pressure sensor IDs using the TPMS sensor initializer tool.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Relays and Modules - Wheels and Tires > Tire
Pressure Monitor Receiver / Transponder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tire Monitor System -
Usage of TPMS Sensor Tools
Tire Pressure Monitor Receiver / Transponder: Technical Service Bulletins Tire Monitor System -
Usage of TPMS Sensor Tools
06-072
(Supersedes 06-072, dated January 5, 2007, to update the information marked by the black bars
and asterisks)
*VEHICLES AFFECTED
INTRODUCTION
Beginning with some 2007 models, Honda is using a second type of TPMS (tire pressure
monitoring system) that does not use initiators like the 2006 and earlier
TPMS.
^ Are mounted on the inside of the rim, connected to the valve stem.
^ Use a wireless transmission to send tire pressure and temperature information to the TPMS unit.
^ Use non-replaceable batteries. To save battery life, the sensors turn on only when the vehicle is
being used.
*The first type of TPMS (all vehicles through 2006) uses initiators mounted above each wheel.
When you turn the ignition switch to ON (II), the initiators send out a low frequency signal to turn on
the TPMS sensors. The initiator, in conjunction with the TPMS control unit, determines the tire
location. For example, if the right front tire is low on air, the customer sees the low tire pressure
indicator and an indiction that the right front tire is low on pressure. The initiator-type TPMS, or
location-type TPMS (in the HDS), is used on the 2005-08 Pilot, the 2006-08 Ridgeline, and the
2005-08 Odyssey Touring models.*
The new TPMS does not use initiators. The TPMS sensors have a built-in acceleration sensor that
turns on the TPMS sensors when the vehicle speed reaches about 25 mph. Without an initiator, the
TPMS control unit cannot determine tire location. For example, if the right front tire is low on air, the
customer sees only the low pressure indicator and must check all four tires to find the problem tire.
During diagnosis, the TPMS control unit provides a code for each tire.
NOTE:
^ During diagnosis, the TPMS control unit gives a tire number, but you need to do the sensor
position check to find the location of the tire number.
^ Use with HDS software version 2.011.010 or later. The initiator-less TPMS, or no location-type
TPMS, is used on vehicles affected by this bulletin.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Relays and Modules - Wheels and Tires > Tire
Pressure Monitor Receiver / Transponder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tire Monitor System -
Usage of TPMS Sensor Tools > Page 6496
A TPMS sensor tool is used for troubleshooting and replacing the TPMS sensors. See TOOL
DESCRIPTION for more information.
WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION
None.
TOOL INFORMATION
TOOL DESCRIPTION
The TPMS sensor tool is a wireless tool that is used with the HDS for troubleshooting (sensor
position check) and for replacing TPMS sensors or the control unit (sensor ID learning).
General use:
^ Always make sure the TPMS sensor tool is set to low power unless otherwise instructed.
*^ Make sure there are no vehicles or other wheels with TPMS sensors within 10 feet of the vehicle
you are working on.
^ Make sure the batteries are in good condition and secure in the case. Refer to ServiceNews
article A07050D, Keep Those TPMS Sensor Tool Batteries From Popping Loose, for more
information.*
^ Turn on the TPMS sensor tool by following the HDS instructions. There are two different
wavelengths used, and there are two ways to turn on the TPMS sensor tool. If the TPMS sensor
tool is not turned on correctly, you won't be able to troubleshoot the vehicle or do the sensor ID
learning procedure.
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Pressure Monitor Receiver / Transponder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tire Monitor System -
Usage of TPMS Sensor Tools > Page 6497
^ Turn off the TPMS sensor tool by pressing and holding the small button as shown until the green
light in the button turns off. The tool will also turn off after 5 minutes of inactivity.
NOTE:
Offset your finger, or use just your nail to push the buttons, so you can see the light in the buttons.
Two AC adapters are included in the TPMS sensor tool kit. The 900 AC adapter is for the battery
charger. Use the straight AC adapter to power the TPMS sensor tool when charged batteries are
not available.
NOTE:
^ The AC adapter does not charge the batteries in the TPMS sensor tool.
^ Remove the batteries from the TPMS sensor tool when using the AC adapter.
There are two ways to charge the batteries. The method to use depends on the batteries' state of
charge. For brand new or fully discharged batteries:
1. Connect the AC adapter to the charger (make sure you use the AC adapter with the 90° bend).
2. Insert the batteries into the charger. Make sure you note the polarity (direction) of the batteries.
3. Plug the charger into a power outlet. The LEDs turn red, and quick charging begins.
NOTE:
^ If the LEDs do not come on, check that the batteries are properly installed. If the LEDs still do not
come on, replace the batteries.
^ If you press the red button while the batteries are charging, the battery discharge mode begins.
Press the red button again within 30 seconds, and the charger switches back to its quick charge
mode.
^ When the LEDs turn green, the batteries are charged, and the battery charger automatically
switches to trickle charge mode.
^ Remove the batteries from the charger when it is not plugged in.
For charging batteries when you don't know the state of charge:
1. Connect the AC adapter to the charger (make sure you use the AC adapter with the 90° bend).
2. Insert the batteries into the charger. Make sure you note the polarity (direction) of the batteries.
4. Press the red button once to start the discharge mode. The LEDs blink red.
NOTE:
^ If the LEDs do not come on, check that the batteries are properly installed. If the LEDs still do not
come on, replace the batteries.
^ If you press the red button a second time within 30 seconds, the battery quick charge mode
begins.
^ Once the batteries are discharged, the LEDs turn solid red and the battery quick charge mode
begins.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Relays and Modules - Wheels and Tires > Tire
Pressure Monitor Receiver / Transponder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tire Monitor System -
Usage of TPMS Sensor Tools > Page 6498
^ When the LEDs turn green, the batteries are charged, and the battery charger automatically
switches to trickle charge mode.
^ Remove the batteries from the charger when it is not plugged in.
When the TPMS sets a DTC, it refers to Tire 1, Tire 2, Tire 3, or Tire 4. In the service manual, the
tire number is the sensor number. For example, Tire 2 is sensor 2.
However, the tire number is not the tire position. To diagnose or repair the vehicle, do the sensor
position check to find the location of the problem tire (or sensor) on the vehicle.
7. In the System Selection Menu, select TPMS, then select the Enter button.
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Pressure Monitor Receiver / Transponder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tire Monitor System -
Usage of TPMS Sensor Tools > Page 6500
8. In the Mode menu, select Functional Tests, then select the Enter button.
9. In the Functional Test menu, select Sensor Position Check, then select the Enter button.
*10. On the Sensor Position Check screen, turn on the TPMS sensor tool by following the
on-screen instructions. (The Accord is shown on the sample
screen.)*
NOTE:
Each model is different. Turning on the TPMS sensor tool incorrectly could lead to incorrect
diagnosis and repair.
Once the TPMS sensor tool is turned on, select the YES button.
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Pressure Monitor Receiver / Transponder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tire Monitor System -
Usage of TPMS Sensor Tools > Page 6501
11. Follow the instructions on the Sensor Position Check screen. When prompted, go to the left
front wheel, then select the Enter button.
12. Wait about 5 seconds, and the Sensor Position Check screen changes to an operation
progress bar.
* NOTE:
^ Wait for the timer to start. When the blue bar appears, use the TPMS sensor tool.*
^ If the sensor IDs appear without the TPMS sensor tool button being pushed, a TPMS sensor is
transmitting. Select the Exit button, wait 5 minutes for the sensor to go to sleep, then follow the
on-screen prompts.
13. Point and hold the TPMS sensor tool 10 to 20 inches from the left front wheel valve stem. Press
and hold the large transmit button for up to 1 minute. The button should flash red. The TPMS
sensor tool sends a signal to the TPMS sensor to turn on and broadcast the TPMS sensor ID to the
TPMS control unit.
14. Watch for the TPMS sensor IDs to appear on the HDS screen. The TPMS control unit must
read the sensor ID five times to complete the learning
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Pressure Monitor Receiver / Transponder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tire Monitor System -
Usage of TPMS Sensor Tools > Page 6502
procedure.
NOTE:
15. The TPMS sensor ID learning changes to the following screen once the procedure is complete.
Select the Enter button.
NOTE:
If the sensor does not respond (no sensor IDs are displayed), rotate the tire one-quarter turn and
try again. If the TPMS sensor does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, switch the tire to a
known-good location and try again. If the TPMS sensor still does not respond after one full rotation
of the tire, replace the TPMS sensor.
16. When prompted, go to the left rear wheel, then select the Enter button.
17. The TPMS sensor ID learning procedure goes through the same steps as the left front wheel
(see steps 12 thru 15). When the timer starts (the blue bar appears), point and hold the TPMS
sensor tool 10 to 20 inches from the left rear wheel valve stem. Press and hold the large transmit
button for up to 1 minute. The button should flash red. The TPMS sensor tool sends a signal to the
TPMS sensor to turn on and broadcast the TPMS sensor
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Relays and Modules - Wheels and Tires > Tire
Pressure Monitor Receiver / Transponder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tire Monitor System -
Usage of TPMS Sensor Tools > Page 6503
ID to the TPMS control unit.
NOTE:
^ If the sensor IDs appear without the TPMS sensor tool button being pushed, a TPMS sensor is
transmitting. Select the Exit button, wait 5 minutes for the sensors to go to sleep, then follow the
on-screen prompts.
^ If the sensor does not respond (no sensor IDs are displayed), rotate the tire one-quarter turn and
try again. If the TPMS sensor does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, switch the tire to a
known-good location and try again. If the TPMS sensor still does not respond after one full rotation
of the tire, replace the TPMS sensor.
18. When prompted, go to the right rear wheel, then select the Enter button.
19. The TPMS sensor ID learning procedure goes through the same steps as the left front wheel
(see steps 12 thru 15). When the timer starts (the blue bar appears), point and hold the TPMS
sensor tool 10 to 20 inches from the right rear wheel valve stem. Press and hold the large transmit
button for up to 1 minute. The button should flash red. The TPMS sensor tool sends a signal to the
TPMS sensor to turn on and broadcast the TPMS sensor ID to the TPMS control unit.
NOTE:
^ If the sensor IDs appear without the TPMS sensor tool button being pushed, a TPMS sensor is
transmitting. Select the Exit button, wait 5 minutes for the sensors to go to sleep, then follow the
on-screen prompts.
^ If the sensor does not respond (no sensor IDs are displayed), rotate the tire one-quarter turn and
try again. If the TPMS sensor does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, switch the tire to a
known-good location and try again. If the TPMS sensor still does not respond after one full rotation
of the tire, replace the TPMS sensor.
20. When prompted, go to the right front wheel, then select the Enter button.
21. The TPMS sensor ID learning procedure goes through the same steps as the left front wheel
(see steps 12 thru 15). When the timer starts (the blue bar appears), point and hold the TPMS
sensor tool 10 to 20 inches from the right front wheel valve stem. Press and hold the large transmit
button for up to 1 minute. The button should flash red. The TPMS sensor tool sends a signal to the
TPMS sensor to turn on and broadcast the TPMS
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Relays and Modules - Wheels and Tires > Tire
Pressure Monitor Receiver / Transponder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tire Monitor System -
Usage of TPMS Sensor Tools > Page 6504
NOTE:
^ If the sensor IDs appear without the TPMS sensor tool button being pushed, a TPMS sensor is
transmitting. Select the Exit button, wait 5 minutes for the sensors to go to sleep, then follow the
on-screen prompts.
^ If the sensor does not respond (no sensor IDs are displayed), rotate the tire one-quarter turn and
try again. If the TPMS sensor does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, switch the tire to a
known-good location and try again. If the TPMS sensor still does not respond after one full rotation
of the tire, replace the TPMS sensor.
22. The sensor position check is complete. Using the DTC(s) and the information on the Sensor
Position Check screen, locate the problem tire.
If the vehicle has DTC 22-1,this means that the problem is in tire 2 (sensor 2).
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Relays and Modules - Wheels and Tires > Tire
Pressure Monitor Receiver / Transponder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tire Monitor System -
Usage of TPMS Sensor Tools > Page 6505
You must refer to the Sensor Position Check screen to see what location tire 2 is in. Do not
assume it is in position 2 (left rear tire).
According to the Sensor Position Check screen tire 2 is in position 1, the left front tire.
SENSOR ID LEARNING
NOTE:
Even if you replace only one sensor, the Sensor ID Learning procedure must be done to all four
wheels.
6. In the Select Mode menu, select Honda Systems, and select the Enter button.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Relays and Modules - Wheels and Tires > Tire
Pressure Monitor Receiver / Transponder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tire Monitor System -
Usage of TPMS Sensor Tools > Page 6507
7. In the System Selection Menu, select TPMS, then select the Enter button.
8. In the Mode Menu, select Sensor ID Learning, then select the Enter button.
NOTE:
Make sure there are no other vehicles or other wheels with TPMS sensors within 10 feet of the
vehicle you are working on.
10. On the TPMS Sensor ID Learning screen, turn on the TPMS sensor tool by following the
on-screen instructions. The Accord is shown on the sample screen.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Relays and Modules - Wheels and Tires > Tire
Pressure Monitor Receiver / Transponder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tire Monitor System -
Usage of TPMS Sensor Tools > Page 6508
NOTE:
Each model is different. Turning on the TPMS sensor tool incorrectly could lead to incorrect
diagnosis and repair.
Once the TPMS sensor tool is turned on, select the YES button.
11. Follow the instructions on the TPMS Sensor ID Learning screen. When prompted, go to the left
front wheel, then select the Enter button.
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Pressure Monitor Receiver / Transponder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tire Monitor System -
Usage of TPMS Sensor Tools > Page 6509
12. Wait about 5 seconds, and the TPMS Sensor ID Learning screen should change to an
operation progress bar.
NOTE:
^ Wait for the timer to start. When you see the blue bar, use the TPMS sensor tool.
^ If the sensor IDs appear without the TPMS sensor tool button being pushed, a TPMS sensor is
transmitting. Select the Exit button, wait 5 minutes for the sensor to go to sleep, then follow the
on-screen prompts.
13. Point and hold the TPMS sensor tool 10 to 20 inches from the left front wheel valve stem. Press
and hold the large transmit button for up to 1 minute. The button should flash red. The TPMS
sensor tool sends a signal to the TPMS sensor to turn on and broadcast the TPMS sensor ID to the
TPMS control unit.
14. Watch for the TPMS sensor IDs to appear on the HDS screen The TPMS control unit must read
the sensor ID five times to complete the learning procedure.
NOTE:
15. The TPMS sensor ID learning changes to the following screen once the procedure is complete.
Select the Enter button.
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Pressure Monitor Receiver / Transponder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tire Monitor System -
Usage of TPMS Sensor Tools > Page 6510
NOTE:
If the sensor does not respond (no sensor IDs are displayed), rotate the tire one-quarter turn and
try again. If the TPMS sensor does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, switch the tire to a
known-good location and try again. If the TPMS sensor still does not respond after one full rotation
of the tire, replace the TPMS sensor.
16. When prompted, go to the left rear wheel, then select the Enter button.
17. The TPMS sensor ID learning procedure goes through the same steps as the left front wheel
(see steps 12 thru 15). When the timer starts (the blue bar appears), point and hold the TPMS
sensor tool 10 to 20 inches from the left rear wheel valve stem. Press and hold the large transmit
button for up to 1 minute. The button should flash red. The TPMS sensor tool sends a signal to the
TPMS sensor to turn on and broadcast the TPMS sensor ID to the TPMS control unit.
NOTE:
^ If the sensor IDs appear without the TPMS sensor tool button being pushed, a TPMS sensor is
transmitting. Select the Exit button, wait 5 minutes for the sensor to go to sleep, then follow the
on-screen prompts.
^ If the sensor does not respond (no sensor IDs are displayed), rotate the tire one-quarter turn and
try again. If the TPMS sensor does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, switch the tire to a
known-good location and try again. If the TPMS sensor still does not respond after one full rotation
of the tire, replace the TPMS sensor.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Relays and Modules - Wheels and Tires > Tire
Pressure Monitor Receiver / Transponder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tire Monitor System -
Usage of TPMS Sensor Tools > Page 6511
18. When prompted, go to the right rear wheel, then select the Enter button.
19. The TPMS sensor ID learning procedure goes through the same steps as the left front wheel
(see steps 12 thru 15). When the timer starts (the blue bar appears), point and hold the TPMS
sensor tool 10 to 20 inches from the right rear wheel valve stem. Press and hold the large transmit
button for up to 1 minute. The button should flash red. The TPMS sensor tool sends a signal to the
TPMS sensor to turn on and broadcast the TPMS sensor ID to the TPMS control unit.
NOTE:
^ If the sensor IDs appear without the TPMS sensor tool button being pushed, a TPMS sensor is
transmitting. Select the Exit button, wait 5 minutes for the sensor to go to sleep, then follow the
on-screen prompts.
^ If the sensor does not respond (no sensor IDs are displayed), rotate the tire one-quarter turn and
try again. If the TPMS sensor does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, switch the tire to a
known-good location and try again. If the TPMS sensor still does not respond after one full rotation
of the tire, replace the TPMS sensor.
20. When prompted, go to the right front wheel, then select the Enter button.
21. The TPMS sensor ID learning procedure goes through the same steps as the left front wheel
(see steps 12 thru 15). When the timer starts (the blue bar appears), point and hold the TPMS
sensor tool 10 to 20 inches from the right front wheel valve stem. Press and hold the large transmit
button for up to 1 minute. The button should flash red. The TPMS sensor tool sends a signal to the
TPMS sensor to turn on and broadcast the TPMS sensor ID to the TPMS control unit.
NOTE:
^ If the sensor IDs appear without the TPMS sensor tool button being pushed, a TPMS sensor is
transmitting. Select the Exit button, wait 5 minutes for the sensor to go to sleep, then follow the
on-screen prompts.
^ If the sensor does not respond (no sensor IDs are displayed), rotate the tire one-quarter turn and
try again. If the TPMS sensor does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, switch the tire to a
known-good location and try again. If the TPMS sensor still does not respond after one full rotation
of the tire, replace the TPMS sensor.
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Pressure Monitor Receiver / Transponder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tire Monitor System -
Usage of TPMS Sensor Tools > Page 6512
22. The sensor ID learning procedure is complete. Select the Enter button to continue to register
the TPMS sensor IDs in the TPMS unit.
23. The low tire pressure indicator is flashing and requires road-testing the vehicle. On the TPMS
Sensor ID Learning screen, select the Enter button.
24. Drive the vehicle for 2 minutes above 30 mph, or until the low tire pressure indicator goes off.
Once the indicator goes off, stop the vehicle.
25. In the Mode Menu, select the Data List, and then select the Enter button. Check the tire
pressure at all four tires to confirm that the TPMS control unit is reading the correct tire pressures.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Relays and Modules - Wheels and Tires > Tire
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Usage of TPMS Sensor Tools > Page 6513
26. Return to the Mode Menu, select DTCs, then select the Enter button.
Disclaimer
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Sensors and Switches - Wheels and Tires >
Tire Pressure Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tire Monitor System - Usage of TPMS
Sensor Tools
Tire Pressure Sensor: Technical Service Bulletins Tire Monitor System - Usage of TPMS Sensor
Tools
06-072
(Supersedes 06-072, dated January 5, 2007, to update the information marked by the black bars
and asterisks)
*VEHICLES AFFECTED
INTRODUCTION
Beginning with some 2007 models, Honda is using a second type of TPMS (tire pressure
monitoring system) that does not use initiators like the 2006 and earlier
TPMS.
^ Are mounted on the inside of the rim, connected to the valve stem.
^ Use a wireless transmission to send tire pressure and temperature information to the TPMS unit.
^ Use non-replaceable batteries. To save battery life, the sensors turn on only when the vehicle is
being used.
*The first type of TPMS (all vehicles through 2006) uses initiators mounted above each wheel.
When you turn the ignition switch to ON (II), the initiators send out a low frequency signal to turn on
the TPMS sensors. The initiator, in conjunction with the TPMS control unit, determines the tire
location. For example, if the right front tire is low on air, the customer sees the low tire pressure
indicator and an indiction that the right front tire is low on pressure. The initiator-type TPMS, or
location-type TPMS (in the HDS), is used on the 2005-08 Pilot, the 2006-08 Ridgeline, and the
2005-08 Odyssey Touring models.*
The new TPMS does not use initiators. The TPMS sensors have a built-in acceleration sensor that
turns on the TPMS sensors when the vehicle speed reaches about 25 mph. Without an initiator, the
TPMS control unit cannot determine tire location. For example, if the right front tire is low on air, the
customer sees only the low pressure indicator and must check all four tires to find the problem tire.
During diagnosis, the TPMS control unit provides a code for each tire.
NOTE:
^ During diagnosis, the TPMS control unit gives a tire number, but you need to do the sensor
position check to find the location of the tire number.
^ Use with HDS software version 2.011.010 or later. The initiator-less TPMS, or no location-type
TPMS, is used on vehicles affected by this bulletin.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Sensors and Switches - Wheels and Tires >
Tire Pressure Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tire Monitor System - Usage of TPMS
Sensor Tools > Page 6519
A TPMS sensor tool is used for troubleshooting and replacing the TPMS sensors. See TOOL
DESCRIPTION for more information.
WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION
None.
TOOL INFORMATION
TOOL DESCRIPTION
The TPMS sensor tool is a wireless tool that is used with the HDS for troubleshooting (sensor
position check) and for replacing TPMS sensors or the control unit (sensor ID learning).
General use:
^ Always make sure the TPMS sensor tool is set to low power unless otherwise instructed.
*^ Make sure there are no vehicles or other wheels with TPMS sensors within 10 feet of the vehicle
you are working on.
^ Make sure the batteries are in good condition and secure in the case. Refer to ServiceNews
article A07050D, Keep Those TPMS Sensor Tool Batteries From Popping Loose, for more
information.*
^ Turn on the TPMS sensor tool by following the HDS instructions. There are two different
wavelengths used, and there are two ways to turn on the TPMS sensor tool. If the TPMS sensor
tool is not turned on correctly, you won't be able to troubleshoot the vehicle or do the sensor ID
learning procedure.
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Sensor Tools > Page 6520
^ Turn off the TPMS sensor tool by pressing and holding the small button as shown until the green
light in the button turns off. The tool will also turn off after 5 minutes of inactivity.
NOTE:
Offset your finger, or use just your nail to push the buttons, so you can see the light in the buttons.
Two AC adapters are included in the TPMS sensor tool kit. The 900 AC adapter is for the battery
charger. Use the straight AC adapter to power the TPMS sensor tool when charged batteries are
not available.
NOTE:
^ The AC adapter does not charge the batteries in the TPMS sensor tool.
^ Remove the batteries from the TPMS sensor tool when using the AC adapter.
There are two ways to charge the batteries. The method to use depends on the batteries' state of
charge. For brand new or fully discharged batteries:
1. Connect the AC adapter to the charger (make sure you use the AC adapter with the 90° bend).
2. Insert the batteries into the charger. Make sure you note the polarity (direction) of the batteries.
3. Plug the charger into a power outlet. The LEDs turn red, and quick charging begins.
NOTE:
^ If the LEDs do not come on, check that the batteries are properly installed. If the LEDs still do not
come on, replace the batteries.
^ If you press the red button while the batteries are charging, the battery discharge mode begins.
Press the red button again within 30 seconds, and the charger switches back to its quick charge
mode.
^ When the LEDs turn green, the batteries are charged, and the battery charger automatically
switches to trickle charge mode.
^ Remove the batteries from the charger when it is not plugged in.
For charging batteries when you don't know the state of charge:
1. Connect the AC adapter to the charger (make sure you use the AC adapter with the 90° bend).
2. Insert the batteries into the charger. Make sure you note the polarity (direction) of the batteries.
4. Press the red button once to start the discharge mode. The LEDs blink red.
NOTE:
^ If the LEDs do not come on, check that the batteries are properly installed. If the LEDs still do not
come on, replace the batteries.
^ If you press the red button a second time within 30 seconds, the battery quick charge mode
begins.
^ Once the batteries are discharged, the LEDs turn solid red and the battery quick charge mode
begins.
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Sensor Tools > Page 6521
^ When the LEDs turn green, the batteries are charged, and the battery charger automatically
switches to trickle charge mode.
^ Remove the batteries from the charger when it is not plugged in.
When the TPMS sets a DTC, it refers to Tire 1, Tire 2, Tire 3, or Tire 4. In the service manual, the
tire number is the sensor number. For example, Tire 2 is sensor 2.
However, the tire number is not the tire position. To diagnose or repair the vehicle, do the sensor
position check to find the location of the problem tire (or sensor) on the vehicle.
7. In the System Selection Menu, select TPMS, then select the Enter button.
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Sensor Tools > Page 6523
8. In the Mode menu, select Functional Tests, then select the Enter button.
9. In the Functional Test menu, select Sensor Position Check, then select the Enter button.
*10. On the Sensor Position Check screen, turn on the TPMS sensor tool by following the
on-screen instructions. (The Accord is shown on the sample
screen.)*
NOTE:
Each model is different. Turning on the TPMS sensor tool incorrectly could lead to incorrect
diagnosis and repair.
Once the TPMS sensor tool is turned on, select the YES button.
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Sensor Tools > Page 6524
11. Follow the instructions on the Sensor Position Check screen. When prompted, go to the left
front wheel, then select the Enter button.
12. Wait about 5 seconds, and the Sensor Position Check screen changes to an operation
progress bar.
* NOTE:
^ Wait for the timer to start. When the blue bar appears, use the TPMS sensor tool.*
^ If the sensor IDs appear without the TPMS sensor tool button being pushed, a TPMS sensor is
transmitting. Select the Exit button, wait 5 minutes for the sensor to go to sleep, then follow the
on-screen prompts.
13. Point and hold the TPMS sensor tool 10 to 20 inches from the left front wheel valve stem. Press
and hold the large transmit button for up to 1 minute. The button should flash red. The TPMS
sensor tool sends a signal to the TPMS sensor to turn on and broadcast the TPMS sensor ID to the
TPMS control unit.
14. Watch for the TPMS sensor IDs to appear on the HDS screen. The TPMS control unit must
read the sensor ID five times to complete the learning
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Tire Pressure Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tire Monitor System - Usage of TPMS
Sensor Tools > Page 6525
procedure.
NOTE:
15. The TPMS sensor ID learning changes to the following screen once the procedure is complete.
Select the Enter button.
NOTE:
If the sensor does not respond (no sensor IDs are displayed), rotate the tire one-quarter turn and
try again. If the TPMS sensor does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, switch the tire to a
known-good location and try again. If the TPMS sensor still does not respond after one full rotation
of the tire, replace the TPMS sensor.
16. When prompted, go to the left rear wheel, then select the Enter button.
17. The TPMS sensor ID learning procedure goes through the same steps as the left front wheel
(see steps 12 thru 15). When the timer starts (the blue bar appears), point and hold the TPMS
sensor tool 10 to 20 inches from the left rear wheel valve stem. Press and hold the large transmit
button for up to 1 minute. The button should flash red. The TPMS sensor tool sends a signal to the
TPMS sensor to turn on and broadcast the TPMS sensor
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Tire Pressure Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tire Monitor System - Usage of TPMS
Sensor Tools > Page 6526
ID to the TPMS control unit.
NOTE:
^ If the sensor IDs appear without the TPMS sensor tool button being pushed, a TPMS sensor is
transmitting. Select the Exit button, wait 5 minutes for the sensors to go to sleep, then follow the
on-screen prompts.
^ If the sensor does not respond (no sensor IDs are displayed), rotate the tire one-quarter turn and
try again. If the TPMS sensor does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, switch the tire to a
known-good location and try again. If the TPMS sensor still does not respond after one full rotation
of the tire, replace the TPMS sensor.
18. When prompted, go to the right rear wheel, then select the Enter button.
19. The TPMS sensor ID learning procedure goes through the same steps as the left front wheel
(see steps 12 thru 15). When the timer starts (the blue bar appears), point and hold the TPMS
sensor tool 10 to 20 inches from the right rear wheel valve stem. Press and hold the large transmit
button for up to 1 minute. The button should flash red. The TPMS sensor tool sends a signal to the
TPMS sensor to turn on and broadcast the TPMS sensor ID to the TPMS control unit.
NOTE:
^ If the sensor IDs appear without the TPMS sensor tool button being pushed, a TPMS sensor is
transmitting. Select the Exit button, wait 5 minutes for the sensors to go to sleep, then follow the
on-screen prompts.
^ If the sensor does not respond (no sensor IDs are displayed), rotate the tire one-quarter turn and
try again. If the TPMS sensor does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, switch the tire to a
known-good location and try again. If the TPMS sensor still does not respond after one full rotation
of the tire, replace the TPMS sensor.
20. When prompted, go to the right front wheel, then select the Enter button.
21. The TPMS sensor ID learning procedure goes through the same steps as the left front wheel
(see steps 12 thru 15). When the timer starts (the blue bar appears), point and hold the TPMS
sensor tool 10 to 20 inches from the right front wheel valve stem. Press and hold the large transmit
button for up to 1 minute. The button should flash red. The TPMS sensor tool sends a signal to the
TPMS sensor to turn on and broadcast the TPMS
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Tire Pressure Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tire Monitor System - Usage of TPMS
Sensor Tools > Page 6527
NOTE:
^ If the sensor IDs appear without the TPMS sensor tool button being pushed, a TPMS sensor is
transmitting. Select the Exit button, wait 5 minutes for the sensors to go to sleep, then follow the
on-screen prompts.
^ If the sensor does not respond (no sensor IDs are displayed), rotate the tire one-quarter turn and
try again. If the TPMS sensor does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, switch the tire to a
known-good location and try again. If the TPMS sensor still does not respond after one full rotation
of the tire, replace the TPMS sensor.
22. The sensor position check is complete. Using the DTC(s) and the information on the Sensor
Position Check screen, locate the problem tire.
If the vehicle has DTC 22-1,this means that the problem is in tire 2 (sensor 2).
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Tire Pressure Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tire Monitor System - Usage of TPMS
Sensor Tools > Page 6528
You must refer to the Sensor Position Check screen to see what location tire 2 is in. Do not
assume it is in position 2 (left rear tire).
According to the Sensor Position Check screen tire 2 is in position 1, the left front tire.
SENSOR ID LEARNING
NOTE:
Even if you replace only one sensor, the Sensor ID Learning procedure must be done to all four
wheels.
6. In the Select Mode menu, select Honda Systems, and select the Enter button.
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Tire Pressure Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tire Monitor System - Usage of TPMS
Sensor Tools > Page 6530
7. In the System Selection Menu, select TPMS, then select the Enter button.
8. In the Mode Menu, select Sensor ID Learning, then select the Enter button.
NOTE:
Make sure there are no other vehicles or other wheels with TPMS sensors within 10 feet of the
vehicle you are working on.
10. On the TPMS Sensor ID Learning screen, turn on the TPMS sensor tool by following the
on-screen instructions. The Accord is shown on the sample screen.
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Tire Pressure Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tire Monitor System - Usage of TPMS
Sensor Tools > Page 6531
NOTE:
Each model is different. Turning on the TPMS sensor tool incorrectly could lead to incorrect
diagnosis and repair.
Once the TPMS sensor tool is turned on, select the YES button.
11. Follow the instructions on the TPMS Sensor ID Learning screen. When prompted, go to the left
front wheel, then select the Enter button.
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Tire Pressure Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tire Monitor System - Usage of TPMS
Sensor Tools > Page 6532
12. Wait about 5 seconds, and the TPMS Sensor ID Learning screen should change to an
operation progress bar.
NOTE:
^ Wait for the timer to start. When you see the blue bar, use the TPMS sensor tool.
^ If the sensor IDs appear without the TPMS sensor tool button being pushed, a TPMS sensor is
transmitting. Select the Exit button, wait 5 minutes for the sensor to go to sleep, then follow the
on-screen prompts.
13. Point and hold the TPMS sensor tool 10 to 20 inches from the left front wheel valve stem. Press
and hold the large transmit button for up to 1 minute. The button should flash red. The TPMS
sensor tool sends a signal to the TPMS sensor to turn on and broadcast the TPMS sensor ID to the
TPMS control unit.
14. Watch for the TPMS sensor IDs to appear on the HDS screen The TPMS control unit must read
the sensor ID five times to complete the learning procedure.
NOTE:
15. The TPMS sensor ID learning changes to the following screen once the procedure is complete.
Select the Enter button.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Sensors and Switches - Wheels and Tires >
Tire Pressure Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tire Monitor System - Usage of TPMS
Sensor Tools > Page 6533
NOTE:
If the sensor does not respond (no sensor IDs are displayed), rotate the tire one-quarter turn and
try again. If the TPMS sensor does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, switch the tire to a
known-good location and try again. If the TPMS sensor still does not respond after one full rotation
of the tire, replace the TPMS sensor.
16. When prompted, go to the left rear wheel, then select the Enter button.
17. The TPMS sensor ID learning procedure goes through the same steps as the left front wheel
(see steps 12 thru 15). When the timer starts (the blue bar appears), point and hold the TPMS
sensor tool 10 to 20 inches from the left rear wheel valve stem. Press and hold the large transmit
button for up to 1 minute. The button should flash red. The TPMS sensor tool sends a signal to the
TPMS sensor to turn on and broadcast the TPMS sensor ID to the TPMS control unit.
NOTE:
^ If the sensor IDs appear without the TPMS sensor tool button being pushed, a TPMS sensor is
transmitting. Select the Exit button, wait 5 minutes for the sensor to go to sleep, then follow the
on-screen prompts.
^ If the sensor does not respond (no sensor IDs are displayed), rotate the tire one-quarter turn and
try again. If the TPMS sensor does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, switch the tire to a
known-good location and try again. If the TPMS sensor still does not respond after one full rotation
of the tire, replace the TPMS sensor.
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Tire Pressure Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tire Monitor System - Usage of TPMS
Sensor Tools > Page 6534
18. When prompted, go to the right rear wheel, then select the Enter button.
19. The TPMS sensor ID learning procedure goes through the same steps as the left front wheel
(see steps 12 thru 15). When the timer starts (the blue bar appears), point and hold the TPMS
sensor tool 10 to 20 inches from the right rear wheel valve stem. Press and hold the large transmit
button for up to 1 minute. The button should flash red. The TPMS sensor tool sends a signal to the
TPMS sensor to turn on and broadcast the TPMS sensor ID to the TPMS control unit.
NOTE:
^ If the sensor IDs appear without the TPMS sensor tool button being pushed, a TPMS sensor is
transmitting. Select the Exit button, wait 5 minutes for the sensor to go to sleep, then follow the
on-screen prompts.
^ If the sensor does not respond (no sensor IDs are displayed), rotate the tire one-quarter turn and
try again. If the TPMS sensor does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, switch the tire to a
known-good location and try again. If the TPMS sensor still does not respond after one full rotation
of the tire, replace the TPMS sensor.
20. When prompted, go to the right front wheel, then select the Enter button.
21. The TPMS sensor ID learning procedure goes through the same steps as the left front wheel
(see steps 12 thru 15). When the timer starts (the blue bar appears), point and hold the TPMS
sensor tool 10 to 20 inches from the right front wheel valve stem. Press and hold the large transmit
button for up to 1 minute. The button should flash red. The TPMS sensor tool sends a signal to the
TPMS sensor to turn on and broadcast the TPMS sensor ID to the TPMS control unit.
NOTE:
^ If the sensor IDs appear without the TPMS sensor tool button being pushed, a TPMS sensor is
transmitting. Select the Exit button, wait 5 minutes for the sensor to go to sleep, then follow the
on-screen prompts.
^ If the sensor does not respond (no sensor IDs are displayed), rotate the tire one-quarter turn and
try again. If the TPMS sensor does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, switch the tire to a
known-good location and try again. If the TPMS sensor still does not respond after one full rotation
of the tire, replace the TPMS sensor.
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Tire Pressure Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tire Monitor System - Usage of TPMS
Sensor Tools > Page 6535
22. The sensor ID learning procedure is complete. Select the Enter button to continue to register
the TPMS sensor IDs in the TPMS unit.
23. The low tire pressure indicator is flashing and requires road-testing the vehicle. On the TPMS
Sensor ID Learning screen, select the Enter button.
24. Drive the vehicle for 2 minutes above 30 mph, or until the low tire pressure indicator goes off.
Once the indicator goes off, stop the vehicle.
25. In the Mode Menu, select the Data List, and then select the Enter button. Check the tire
pressure at all four tires to confirm that the TPMS control unit is reading the correct tire pressures.
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Tire Pressure Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tire Monitor System - Usage of TPMS
Sensor Tools > Page 6536
26. Return to the Mode Menu, select DTCs, then select the Enter button.
Disclaimer
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Tire Pressure Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 6537
Tire Pressure Sensor: Testing and Inspection Memorizing the Tire Pressure Sensor ID
TPMS sensor initializer tool AKS0620006 Available through the American Honda Tool and
Equipment Program; call 1-888-424-6857
All four tire pressure sensor IDs must be memorized to the TPMS control unit whenever you do any
of these actions:
NOTE: ^
To ensure the control unit memorizes the correct ID, the vehicle with the new sensor must be at
least 10 ft (3 m) away from other vehicles that have tire pressure sensors.
1. With the ignition switch at LOCK (0) wait 5 minutes or more for the TPMS sensors to go to sleep
mode. Connect the HDS to the data link
connector (DLC) (A) located under the driver's side of the dashboard.
2. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 3. Make sure the HDS communicates with the vehicle and the
TPMS control unit. If it doesn't, troubleshoot the DLC circuit. 4. Select Sensor ID Learning from the
mode menu on the HDS. 5. Follow HDS screen prompts to turn on the TPMS sensor initializer tool
(A). Verify the power switch (B) is in the "Low" position.
6. Hold the TPMS sensor initializer tool near one wheel, memorize the pressure sensor ID by
following the screen prompts on the HDS.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Sensors and Switches - Wheels and Tires >
Tire Pressure Sensor > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Memorizing the Tire Pressure Sensor ID > Page
6540
7. Repeat step 6 for each wheel until all four sensor IDs are memorized. When all four IDs are
memorized, the low tire pressure indicator blinks. 8. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). 9.
Disconnect the HDS from the DLC.
10. Test-drive the vehicle at 28 mph (45 km/h) or more for at least 1 minute. 11. Make sure the low
tire pressure indicator does not blink. 12. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). 13. Reduce the
pressure in one tire until it is less than the appropriate specification. 14. Turn the ignition switch to
ON (II). 15. Test-drive the vehicle at 28 mph (45 km/h) or more for at least 1 minute. 16. Make sure
the low tire pressure indicator turns on, then inflate the tire. 17. Repeat step 12 to 16 for all the
other tires. 18. Clear any DTCs with the HDS.
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Tire Pressure Sensor > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Memorizing the Tire Pressure Sensor ID > Page
6541
Tire Pressure Sensor: Testing and Inspection Tire Pressure Sensor Location
NOTE: This procedure locates where the tire pressure sensors number 1, 2, 3, 4 are mounted,
when activated by the TPMS sensor initializer tool.
^ Memorizing tire pressure sensor IDs (including replacing the TPMS control unit, or the tire
pressure sensors).
^ Wheel rotation.
1. With the ignition switch at LOCK (0), connect the HDS to the data link connector (DLC (A)
located under the driver's side of the dashboard.
2. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 3. Make sure the HDS communicates with the vehicle and the
TPMS control unit. If it doesn't, troubleshoot the DLC circuit. 4. Select Function Test from the mode
menu, then select Sensor Position Check on the HDS. 5. Follow HDS screen prompts to turn on
the TPMS sensor initializer tool (A). Verify the power switch (B) is in the "Low" position.
6. Follow the prompts on the HDS to activate the tire pressure sensors using the TPMS sensor
initializer tool. Start with the left-front (LF) wheel.
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6542
7. Check the HDS screen, and note the active sensor reception order of the tire pressure sensor 1,
2, 3, 4.
NOTE: If the sensor does not respond to the TPMS initializer, rotate the tire 1/4 turn and retry. If
the sensor still does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, swap the tire to a known-good
location and retry. If the sensor still does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, replace the
tire pressure sensor.
8. Note the sensor location for reference. 9. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0).
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Sensors and Switches - Wheels and Tires >
Tire Pressure Sensor > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Page 6543
Tire Pressure Sensor: Service and Repair
Removal
1. Raise the vehicle, and support it with safety stands in the proper locations. 2. Remove the wheel
with the faulty sensor. 3. Remove the tire valve stem cap and the valve stem core, and let the tire
deflate. 4. Remove any balance weights, and then break the bead loose from the wheel with a
commercially available tire changer (A).
5. Position the wheel so the tire machine (A) and tire iron (B) are next to the valve stem (C) and will
move away from it when the machine starts.
6. Remove the valve stem nut (A) and washer (B), then remove the tire pressure sensor with valve
stem (C) from the wheel.
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Tire Pressure Sensor > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Page 6544
7. Remove and discard the valve stem grommet (A) from the tire pressure sensor (B).
NOTE: ^
The valve stem grommet might stay in the wheel; make sure you remove it.
^ Always use a new valve stem grommet whenever the tire pressure sensor has been removed
from the wheel. When only removing a tire from the wheel, replace the valve stem grommet if it is
possible.
Installation
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Sensors and Switches - Wheels and Tires >
Tire Pressure Sensor > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Page 6545
1. Before installing the tire pressure sensor, clean the mating surfaces on the sensor and the
wheel. 2. Install the tire pressure sensor (A) and the washer (B) to the wheel (C), and tighten the
valve stem nut (D) finger tight. Make sure the pressure
3. Tighten the valve stem nut to the specified torque while holding the tire pressure sensor.
NOTE: ^
Do not use air or electric impact tools to tighten a valve stem nut.
^ Do not twist the tire pressure sensor to adjust its position with the wheel, as this will damage or
deform the valve stem grommet.
4. Lube the tire bead sparingly, and position the wheel so the tire machine (A) and tire iron (B) are
next to the valve stem (C) and will move away
from it when the machine starts. Then install the tire onto the wheel.
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Tire Pressure Sensor > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Page 6546
5. With a dry air source, inflate the tire to 300 kPa (3.1 kgf/cm2, 44 psi) to seat the tire bead to the
rim, then adjust the tire pressure, then install the
NOTE: Make sure the tire bead is seated on both sides of the rim uniformly.
6. Check and adjust the wheel balance, then install the wheels on the vehicle. 7. Remove the jack
stands, and lower the vehicle. Torque the wheel nuts to specifications. 8. Connect the HDS, and
memorize the pressure sensor IDs using the TPMS sensor initializer tool.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Tire Monitoring System > Low Tire Pressure
Indicator > Component Information > Locations
Low Tire Pressure Indicator: Service and Repair TPMS Indicator Reset
The TPMS (tire pressure monitoring system) has a low tire pressure indicator and a TPMS
indicator. When the TPMS control unit detects low pressure in a tire, or a problem in the system, it
turns on the appropriate indicator.
^ If low tire pressure is detected in one or more tires, the low tire pressure indicator comes on.
^ If low tire pressure and a problem in the system are detected, only the TPMS indicator comes on.
If the system is OK, the TPMS indicator and the low tire pressure indicator should come on when
you turn the ignition switch to ON (II), and then go off 2 seconds later. If they don't, there is a
problem with the system.
If the system detects low pressure in any of the four tires, the low tire pressure indicator comes on,
and the control unit will set one or more of these codes: DTC 11, 13, 15, 17. When the tire pressure
returns to normal, the control unit turns off the indicators and stores the DTC(s). However, if the
control unit detects a problem in the system during an indication of low tire pressure, it turns off the
low tire pressure indicator, stores the DTC(s), and turns on the TPMS indicator(s).
NOTE: Tire pressures increase slightly as the temperature in the tires rises during driving at
highway speeds. Pressures can also increase or decrease slightly with changes in outside air
temperature. A temperature change of about 18°F (10°C) changes tire pressure by about 10 kPa
(0.1 kgf/cm2, 1.5 psi). If the temperature drops, tire pressure could decrease just enough to turn on
the low tire pressure indicator, but later, the tire temperature could increase enough to turn the
indicator off. To resolve a complaint of such intermittent indications, confirm and clear the stored
DTC(s) and check the tire pressures. Then explain to the customer how temperature changes can
affect the system, especially when tire pressures are near the low end of the TPMS normal range -
168 to 220 kPa (1.7 to 2.2 kgf/cm2, 24 to 32 psi).
If a problem is detected in the system, the TPMS indicator comes on and stays on until the system
returns to normal with most DTCs. If DTC 81, 83 or 85 is set, the TPMS indicator goes off only
when the ignition switch is turned to LOCK (0).
When a flat tire is replaced with the spare tire, the TPMS indicator comes on (DTC 32, 34, 36 or
38) because the system is no longer receiving the signal from the tire's transmitter. This is not a
problem with the spare tire.
After rotating the tires or replacing a tire pressure sensor, drive the vehicle for at least 40 seconds
at a speed of 15 mph (24 km/h) or more, and all the sensor IDs are memorized automatically.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Tire Monitoring System > Tire Pressure
Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tire Monitor System - VT55 TPMS Update Information
Tire Pressure Module: Technical Service Bulletins Tire Monitor System - VT55 TPMS Update
Information
09-070
INTRODUCTION
The software for the VT55 TPMS tool is updated periodically to add new vehicles, fix software
bugs, and enhance the tool's function. You can use the ATEQ update wizard to download software
and firmware to your VT55 using a PC and the Internet. It is extremely important to use the latest
VT55 software to ensure that the current TPMS initialization and diagnostic procedures are used.
American Honda is also introducing a new policy to ensure that VT55 tools are updated promptly.
The VT55 software must now be updated within 3 days of receiving notification of an available
update from an iN message or other Honda communication. If an out-of-date version is used, any
TPMS replacements may not be covered under warranty.
^ VT55 Tool Kit (includes VT55, AC adapter, USB cable and CD): P/N AEQVT55
P/N AEQVT555
^ Internet access
To order the VT55, or the USB connector, go to the Honda Tool and Equipment catalog on the iN
(select Service > Service Bay > Tool and Equipment > Online Catalog), or call.
SOFTWARE VERSION
To check the VT55 version software, turn on the unit and the version number appears for about 2
seconds during the startup process. If you miss it, turn the VT55 off by pressing and holding the
power switch for about 2 seconds, then turn it back on.
1. Go online to
update.ateq.com/software/webvt/update_webvt.zip
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2. Depending on your Internet connection, the Connect to update screen may appear. If so, enter
the login and password.
Login: webvt
Password: update
3. The File Download screen appears. Select Save. The Zip file will be saved to your computer.
4. After the Zip file finishes downloading, open the update - webvt.zip file by double-clicking on it.
5. The WinZip - update - webvt.zip screen appears. Double-click the WebVT55_V4_2.exe file.
NOTE:
If you see a Compressed (Zipped) Folders Error, contact your IT person because there is a
permissions issue with your firewall.
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6. The WinZip Caution screen appears. Select Yes.
7. If you have a previous version of the WebVT software installed on your computer, the
InstallShield Wizard gives you the option to modify, repair, or
If you have a previous software version, select Modify, then Next. After the software is modified
select Finish.
11. The InstallShield Wizard will prompt you when WebVT is installed on your computer. Select
Finish.
12. The serial emulation port driver installer screen appears. Connect your VT55, and turn it on.
Select Next.
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13. After a few seconds, the serial emulation port driver installer prompts you when it is finished.
Select Finish.
14. If you have any problems installing the VT55 update software, call ATEQ at 734-838-3100, and
select option 2 for service.
NOTE:
^ Some screens may list the tool as VT5O or VT55. This is OK; it will not affect updating the tool.
^ If at any time during the update an error message appears, or the VT55 is not detected, see the
Standard User Guide that is on the ATEQ CD that came with the tool, or call ATEQ at
734-838-3100, and select option 2 for service.
1. Go to your desktop, and double-click the WebVT icon to launch the VT55 update software.
2. Connect the VT55 to your PC with the USB cable, then turn it on. The serial number and current
software version automatically display.
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3. The Found New Hardware Wizard may appear. If it does, select Yes, now and every time I
connect a device, then select Next.
4. The Found New Hardware Wizard prompts you to install the ATEQ R5232 Emulation software.
Select Install the software automatically
5. The Found New Hardware Wizard will prompt you when the software is installed. Select Finish.
6. Select UPDATE DEVICE. Depending on your Internet connection, you may be prompted for a
login and password. If you know your login and
password, enter them, otherwise, contact your administrator or internet service provider for the
login and password.
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7. If a new software version is available, you'll see a message asking if you want to update the
VT55. Select Yes.
NOTE:
Do not disconnect the VT55 during the update procedure, as you may permanently damage the
tool.
If no new software version is available, you'll see a message asking if you want to overwrite the
existing software. Select No.
8. The Dealer Identification screen appears. Enter your 6-digit dealer number, then select Apply.
9. If the dealer number is valid, your dealership's name and address appears in the dealer
information box. Select NEXT.
If the dealership number is not valid, call the American Honda Special Tools Hotline for assistance.
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10. The VT55 begins updating. When the VT55 is finished updating, you'll see a message stating
the update is done. Disconnect the VT55, then select
OK.
11. Let the VT55 turn off (for about 1 minute). Turn it on, and confirm that the software is updated
to the software version listed under SOFTWARE
VERSION.
12. If you have more than one VT55, repeat the update procedure for each unit.
13. Once all VT55s are updated, select EXIT, and store the USB cable in a safe location for future
updates.
Disclaimer
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NOTE: Make sure the TPMS control unit mounting bracket is not bent or twisted as this may affect
its communication with the tire pressure sensors.
1. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). 2. Remove the driver's dashboard undercover. 3.
Disconnect the TPMS control unit connector (A).
4. Remove the TPMS control unit (B) from the bracket (C).
NOTE: While separating the TPMS control unit from the bracket, add in a flat-tipped screwdriver
between the TPMS control unit and the bracket at shown aria (D) to release the hook (E), and slide
out the TPMS control unit from the bracket.
5. Replace the bracket if necessary. 6. Install the TPMS control unit in the reverse order of
removal.
NOTE: Make sure the TPMS control unit is properly installed. You will hear a click when the TPMS
control unit is securely mounted on the bracket.
7. Connect the HDS, and memorize the pressure sensor IDs using the TPMS sensor initializer tool.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Tire Monitoring System > Tire Pressure
Monitor Receiver / Transponder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tire Monitor System - Usage of
TPMS Sensor Tools
Tire Pressure Monitor Receiver / Transponder: Technical Service Bulletins Tire Monitor System -
Usage of TPMS Sensor Tools
06-072
(Supersedes 06-072, dated January 5, 2007, to update the information marked by the black bars
and asterisks)
*VEHICLES AFFECTED
INTRODUCTION
Beginning with some 2007 models, Honda is using a second type of TPMS (tire pressure
monitoring system) that does not use initiators like the 2006 and earlier
TPMS.
^ Are mounted on the inside of the rim, connected to the valve stem.
^ Use a wireless transmission to send tire pressure and temperature information to the TPMS unit.
^ Use non-replaceable batteries. To save battery life, the sensors turn on only when the vehicle is
being used.
*The first type of TPMS (all vehicles through 2006) uses initiators mounted above each wheel.
When you turn the ignition switch to ON (II), the initiators send out a low frequency signal to turn on
the TPMS sensors. The initiator, in conjunction with the TPMS control unit, determines the tire
location. For example, if the right front tire is low on air, the customer sees the low tire pressure
indicator and an indiction that the right front tire is low on pressure. The initiator-type TPMS, or
location-type TPMS (in the HDS), is used on the 2005-08 Pilot, the 2006-08 Ridgeline, and the
2005-08 Odyssey Touring models.*
The new TPMS does not use initiators. The TPMS sensors have a built-in acceleration sensor that
turns on the TPMS sensors when the vehicle speed reaches about 25 mph. Without an initiator, the
TPMS control unit cannot determine tire location. For example, if the right front tire is low on air, the
customer sees only the low pressure indicator and must check all four tires to find the problem tire.
During diagnosis, the TPMS control unit provides a code for each tire.
NOTE:
^ During diagnosis, the TPMS control unit gives a tire number, but you need to do the sensor
position check to find the location of the tire number.
^ Use with HDS software version 2.011.010 or later. The initiator-less TPMS, or no location-type
TPMS, is used on vehicles affected by this bulletin.
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A TPMS sensor tool is used for troubleshooting and replacing the TPMS sensors. See TOOL
DESCRIPTION for more information.
WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION
None.
TOOL INFORMATION
TOOL DESCRIPTION
The TPMS sensor tool is a wireless tool that is used with the HDS for troubleshooting (sensor
position check) and for replacing TPMS sensors or the control unit (sensor ID learning).
General use:
^ Always make sure the TPMS sensor tool is set to low power unless otherwise instructed.
*^ Make sure there are no vehicles or other wheels with TPMS sensors within 10 feet of the vehicle
you are working on.
^ Make sure the batteries are in good condition and secure in the case. Refer to ServiceNews
article A07050D, Keep Those TPMS Sensor Tool Batteries From Popping Loose, for more
information.*
^ Turn on the TPMS sensor tool by following the HDS instructions. There are two different
wavelengths used, and there are two ways to turn on the TPMS sensor tool. If the TPMS sensor
tool is not turned on correctly, you won't be able to troubleshoot the vehicle or do the sensor ID
learning procedure.
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^ Turn off the TPMS sensor tool by pressing and holding the small button as shown until the green
light in the button turns off. The tool will also turn off after 5 minutes of inactivity.
NOTE:
Offset your finger, or use just your nail to push the buttons, so you can see the light in the buttons.
Two AC adapters are included in the TPMS sensor tool kit. The 900 AC adapter is for the battery
charger. Use the straight AC adapter to power the TPMS sensor tool when charged batteries are
not available.
NOTE:
^ The AC adapter does not charge the batteries in the TPMS sensor tool.
^ Remove the batteries from the TPMS sensor tool when using the AC adapter.
There are two ways to charge the batteries. The method to use depends on the batteries' state of
charge. For brand new or fully discharged batteries:
1. Connect the AC adapter to the charger (make sure you use the AC adapter with the 90° bend).
2. Insert the batteries into the charger. Make sure you note the polarity (direction) of the batteries.
3. Plug the charger into a power outlet. The LEDs turn red, and quick charging begins.
NOTE:
^ If the LEDs do not come on, check that the batteries are properly installed. If the LEDs still do not
come on, replace the batteries.
^ If you press the red button while the batteries are charging, the battery discharge mode begins.
Press the red button again within 30 seconds, and the charger switches back to its quick charge
mode.
^ When the LEDs turn green, the batteries are charged, and the battery charger automatically
switches to trickle charge mode.
^ Remove the batteries from the charger when it is not plugged in.
For charging batteries when you don't know the state of charge:
1. Connect the AC adapter to the charger (make sure you use the AC adapter with the 90° bend).
2. Insert the batteries into the charger. Make sure you note the polarity (direction) of the batteries.
4. Press the red button once to start the discharge mode. The LEDs blink red.
NOTE:
^ If the LEDs do not come on, check that the batteries are properly installed. If the LEDs still do not
come on, replace the batteries.
^ If you press the red button a second time within 30 seconds, the battery quick charge mode
begins.
^ Once the batteries are discharged, the LEDs turn solid red and the battery quick charge mode
begins.
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^ When the LEDs turn green, the batteries are charged, and the battery charger automatically
switches to trickle charge mode.
^ Remove the batteries from the charger when it is not plugged in.
When the TPMS sets a DTC, it refers to Tire 1, Tire 2, Tire 3, or Tire 4. In the service manual, the
tire number is the sensor number. For example, Tire 2 is sensor 2.
However, the tire number is not the tire position. To diagnose or repair the vehicle, do the sensor
position check to find the location of the problem tire (or sensor) on the vehicle.
7. In the System Selection Menu, select TPMS, then select the Enter button.
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8. In the Mode menu, select Functional Tests, then select the Enter button.
9. In the Functional Test menu, select Sensor Position Check, then select the Enter button.
*10. On the Sensor Position Check screen, turn on the TPMS sensor tool by following the
on-screen instructions. (The Accord is shown on the sample
screen.)*
NOTE:
Each model is different. Turning on the TPMS sensor tool incorrectly could lead to incorrect
diagnosis and repair.
Once the TPMS sensor tool is turned on, select the YES button.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
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TPMS Sensor Tools > Page 6579
11. Follow the instructions on the Sensor Position Check screen. When prompted, go to the left
front wheel, then select the Enter button.
12. Wait about 5 seconds, and the Sensor Position Check screen changes to an operation
progress bar.
* NOTE:
^ Wait for the timer to start. When the blue bar appears, use the TPMS sensor tool.*
^ If the sensor IDs appear without the TPMS sensor tool button being pushed, a TPMS sensor is
transmitting. Select the Exit button, wait 5 minutes for the sensor to go to sleep, then follow the
on-screen prompts.
13. Point and hold the TPMS sensor tool 10 to 20 inches from the left front wheel valve stem. Press
and hold the large transmit button for up to 1 minute. The button should flash red. The TPMS
sensor tool sends a signal to the TPMS sensor to turn on and broadcast the TPMS sensor ID to the
TPMS control unit.
14. Watch for the TPMS sensor IDs to appear on the HDS screen. The TPMS control unit must
read the sensor ID five times to complete the learning
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TPMS Sensor Tools > Page 6580
procedure.
NOTE:
15. The TPMS sensor ID learning changes to the following screen once the procedure is complete.
Select the Enter button.
NOTE:
If the sensor does not respond (no sensor IDs are displayed), rotate the tire one-quarter turn and
try again. If the TPMS sensor does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, switch the tire to a
known-good location and try again. If the TPMS sensor still does not respond after one full rotation
of the tire, replace the TPMS sensor.
16. When prompted, go to the left rear wheel, then select the Enter button.
17. The TPMS sensor ID learning procedure goes through the same steps as the left front wheel
(see steps 12 thru 15). When the timer starts (the blue bar appears), point and hold the TPMS
sensor tool 10 to 20 inches from the left rear wheel valve stem. Press and hold the large transmit
button for up to 1 minute. The button should flash red. The TPMS sensor tool sends a signal to the
TPMS sensor to turn on and broadcast the TPMS sensor
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Monitor Receiver / Transponder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tire Monitor System - Usage of
TPMS Sensor Tools > Page 6581
ID to the TPMS control unit.
NOTE:
^ If the sensor IDs appear without the TPMS sensor tool button being pushed, a TPMS sensor is
transmitting. Select the Exit button, wait 5 minutes for the sensors to go to sleep, then follow the
on-screen prompts.
^ If the sensor does not respond (no sensor IDs are displayed), rotate the tire one-quarter turn and
try again. If the TPMS sensor does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, switch the tire to a
known-good location and try again. If the TPMS sensor still does not respond after one full rotation
of the tire, replace the TPMS sensor.
18. When prompted, go to the right rear wheel, then select the Enter button.
19. The TPMS sensor ID learning procedure goes through the same steps as the left front wheel
(see steps 12 thru 15). When the timer starts (the blue bar appears), point and hold the TPMS
sensor tool 10 to 20 inches from the right rear wheel valve stem. Press and hold the large transmit
button for up to 1 minute. The button should flash red. The TPMS sensor tool sends a signal to the
TPMS sensor to turn on and broadcast the TPMS sensor ID to the TPMS control unit.
NOTE:
^ If the sensor IDs appear without the TPMS sensor tool button being pushed, a TPMS sensor is
transmitting. Select the Exit button, wait 5 minutes for the sensors to go to sleep, then follow the
on-screen prompts.
^ If the sensor does not respond (no sensor IDs are displayed), rotate the tire one-quarter turn and
try again. If the TPMS sensor does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, switch the tire to a
known-good location and try again. If the TPMS sensor still does not respond after one full rotation
of the tire, replace the TPMS sensor.
20. When prompted, go to the right front wheel, then select the Enter button.
21. The TPMS sensor ID learning procedure goes through the same steps as the left front wheel
(see steps 12 thru 15). When the timer starts (the blue bar appears), point and hold the TPMS
sensor tool 10 to 20 inches from the right front wheel valve stem. Press and hold the large transmit
button for up to 1 minute. The button should flash red. The TPMS sensor tool sends a signal to the
TPMS sensor to turn on and broadcast the TPMS
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TPMS Sensor Tools > Page 6582
NOTE:
^ If the sensor IDs appear without the TPMS sensor tool button being pushed, a TPMS sensor is
transmitting. Select the Exit button, wait 5 minutes for the sensors to go to sleep, then follow the
on-screen prompts.
^ If the sensor does not respond (no sensor IDs are displayed), rotate the tire one-quarter turn and
try again. If the TPMS sensor does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, switch the tire to a
known-good location and try again. If the TPMS sensor still does not respond after one full rotation
of the tire, replace the TPMS sensor.
22. The sensor position check is complete. Using the DTC(s) and the information on the Sensor
Position Check screen, locate the problem tire.
If the vehicle has DTC 22-1,this means that the problem is in tire 2 (sensor 2).
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Monitor Receiver / Transponder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tire Monitor System - Usage of
TPMS Sensor Tools > Page 6583
You must refer to the Sensor Position Check screen to see what location tire 2 is in. Do not
assume it is in position 2 (left rear tire).
According to the Sensor Position Check screen tire 2 is in position 1, the left front tire.
SENSOR ID LEARNING
NOTE:
Even if you replace only one sensor, the Sensor ID Learning procedure must be done to all four
wheels.
6. In the Select Mode menu, select Honda Systems, and select the Enter button.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
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TPMS Sensor Tools > Page 6585
7. In the System Selection Menu, select TPMS, then select the Enter button.
8. In the Mode Menu, select Sensor ID Learning, then select the Enter button.
NOTE:
Make sure there are no other vehicles or other wheels with TPMS sensors within 10 feet of the
vehicle you are working on.
10. On the TPMS Sensor ID Learning screen, turn on the TPMS sensor tool by following the
on-screen instructions. The Accord is shown on the sample screen.
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TPMS Sensor Tools > Page 6586
NOTE:
Each model is different. Turning on the TPMS sensor tool incorrectly could lead to incorrect
diagnosis and repair.
Once the TPMS sensor tool is turned on, select the YES button.
11. Follow the instructions on the TPMS Sensor ID Learning screen. When prompted, go to the left
front wheel, then select the Enter button.
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TPMS Sensor Tools > Page 6587
12. Wait about 5 seconds, and the TPMS Sensor ID Learning screen should change to an
operation progress bar.
NOTE:
^ Wait for the timer to start. When you see the blue bar, use the TPMS sensor tool.
^ If the sensor IDs appear without the TPMS sensor tool button being pushed, a TPMS sensor is
transmitting. Select the Exit button, wait 5 minutes for the sensor to go to sleep, then follow the
on-screen prompts.
13. Point and hold the TPMS sensor tool 10 to 20 inches from the left front wheel valve stem. Press
and hold the large transmit button for up to 1 minute. The button should flash red. The TPMS
sensor tool sends a signal to the TPMS sensor to turn on and broadcast the TPMS sensor ID to the
TPMS control unit.
14. Watch for the TPMS sensor IDs to appear on the HDS screen The TPMS control unit must read
the sensor ID five times to complete the learning procedure.
NOTE:
15. The TPMS sensor ID learning changes to the following screen once the procedure is complete.
Select the Enter button.
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TPMS Sensor Tools > Page 6588
NOTE:
If the sensor does not respond (no sensor IDs are displayed), rotate the tire one-quarter turn and
try again. If the TPMS sensor does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, switch the tire to a
known-good location and try again. If the TPMS sensor still does not respond after one full rotation
of the tire, replace the TPMS sensor.
16. When prompted, go to the left rear wheel, then select the Enter button.
17. The TPMS sensor ID learning procedure goes through the same steps as the left front wheel
(see steps 12 thru 15). When the timer starts (the blue bar appears), point and hold the TPMS
sensor tool 10 to 20 inches from the left rear wheel valve stem. Press and hold the large transmit
button for up to 1 minute. The button should flash red. The TPMS sensor tool sends a signal to the
TPMS sensor to turn on and broadcast the TPMS sensor ID to the TPMS control unit.
NOTE:
^ If the sensor IDs appear without the TPMS sensor tool button being pushed, a TPMS sensor is
transmitting. Select the Exit button, wait 5 minutes for the sensor to go to sleep, then follow the
on-screen prompts.
^ If the sensor does not respond (no sensor IDs are displayed), rotate the tire one-quarter turn and
try again. If the TPMS sensor does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, switch the tire to a
known-good location and try again. If the TPMS sensor still does not respond after one full rotation
of the tire, replace the TPMS sensor.
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TPMS Sensor Tools > Page 6589
18. When prompted, go to the right rear wheel, then select the Enter button.
19. The TPMS sensor ID learning procedure goes through the same steps as the left front wheel
(see steps 12 thru 15). When the timer starts (the blue bar appears), point and hold the TPMS
sensor tool 10 to 20 inches from the right rear wheel valve stem. Press and hold the large transmit
button for up to 1 minute. The button should flash red. The TPMS sensor tool sends a signal to the
TPMS sensor to turn on and broadcast the TPMS sensor ID to the TPMS control unit.
NOTE:
^ If the sensor IDs appear without the TPMS sensor tool button being pushed, a TPMS sensor is
transmitting. Select the Exit button, wait 5 minutes for the sensor to go to sleep, then follow the
on-screen prompts.
^ If the sensor does not respond (no sensor IDs are displayed), rotate the tire one-quarter turn and
try again. If the TPMS sensor does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, switch the tire to a
known-good location and try again. If the TPMS sensor still does not respond after one full rotation
of the tire, replace the TPMS sensor.
20. When prompted, go to the right front wheel, then select the Enter button.
21. The TPMS sensor ID learning procedure goes through the same steps as the left front wheel
(see steps 12 thru 15). When the timer starts (the blue bar appears), point and hold the TPMS
sensor tool 10 to 20 inches from the right front wheel valve stem. Press and hold the large transmit
button for up to 1 minute. The button should flash red. The TPMS sensor tool sends a signal to the
TPMS sensor to turn on and broadcast the TPMS sensor ID to the TPMS control unit.
NOTE:
^ If the sensor IDs appear without the TPMS sensor tool button being pushed, a TPMS sensor is
transmitting. Select the Exit button, wait 5 minutes for the sensor to go to sleep, then follow the
on-screen prompts.
^ If the sensor does not respond (no sensor IDs are displayed), rotate the tire one-quarter turn and
try again. If the TPMS sensor does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, switch the tire to a
known-good location and try again. If the TPMS sensor still does not respond after one full rotation
of the tire, replace the TPMS sensor.
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22. The sensor ID learning procedure is complete. Select the Enter button to continue to register
the TPMS sensor IDs in the TPMS unit.
23. The low tire pressure indicator is flashing and requires road-testing the vehicle. On the TPMS
Sensor ID Learning screen, select the Enter button.
24. Drive the vehicle for 2 minutes above 30 mph, or until the low tire pressure indicator goes off.
Once the indicator goes off, stop the vehicle.
25. In the Mode Menu, select the Data List, and then select the Enter button. Check the tire
pressure at all four tires to confirm that the TPMS control unit is reading the correct tire pressures.
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TPMS Sensor Tools > Page 6591
26. Return to the Mode Menu, select DTCs, then select the Enter button.
Disclaimer
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Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tire Monitor System - Usage of TPMS Sensor Tools
Tire Pressure Sensor: Technical Service Bulletins Tire Monitor System - Usage of TPMS Sensor
Tools
06-072
(Supersedes 06-072, dated January 5, 2007, to update the information marked by the black bars
and asterisks)
*VEHICLES AFFECTED
INTRODUCTION
Beginning with some 2007 models, Honda is using a second type of TPMS (tire pressure
monitoring system) that does not use initiators like the 2006 and earlier
TPMS.
^ Are mounted on the inside of the rim, connected to the valve stem.
^ Use a wireless transmission to send tire pressure and temperature information to the TPMS unit.
^ Use non-replaceable batteries. To save battery life, the sensors turn on only when the vehicle is
being used.
*The first type of TPMS (all vehicles through 2006) uses initiators mounted above each wheel.
When you turn the ignition switch to ON (II), the initiators send out a low frequency signal to turn on
the TPMS sensors. The initiator, in conjunction with the TPMS control unit, determines the tire
location. For example, if the right front tire is low on air, the customer sees the low tire pressure
indicator and an indiction that the right front tire is low on pressure. The initiator-type TPMS, or
location-type TPMS (in the HDS), is used on the 2005-08 Pilot, the 2006-08 Ridgeline, and the
2005-08 Odyssey Touring models.*
The new TPMS does not use initiators. The TPMS sensors have a built-in acceleration sensor that
turns on the TPMS sensors when the vehicle speed reaches about 25 mph. Without an initiator, the
TPMS control unit cannot determine tire location. For example, if the right front tire is low on air, the
customer sees only the low pressure indicator and must check all four tires to find the problem tire.
During diagnosis, the TPMS control unit provides a code for each tire.
NOTE:
^ During diagnosis, the TPMS control unit gives a tire number, but you need to do the sensor
position check to find the location of the tire number.
^ Use with HDS software version 2.011.010 or later. The initiator-less TPMS, or no location-type
TPMS, is used on vehicles affected by this bulletin.
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A TPMS sensor tool is used for troubleshooting and replacing the TPMS sensors. See TOOL
DESCRIPTION for more information.
WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION
None.
TOOL INFORMATION
TOOL DESCRIPTION
The TPMS sensor tool is a wireless tool that is used with the HDS for troubleshooting (sensor
position check) and for replacing TPMS sensors or the control unit (sensor ID learning).
General use:
^ Always make sure the TPMS sensor tool is set to low power unless otherwise instructed.
*^ Make sure there are no vehicles or other wheels with TPMS sensors within 10 feet of the vehicle
you are working on.
^ Make sure the batteries are in good condition and secure in the case. Refer to ServiceNews
article A07050D, Keep Those TPMS Sensor Tool Batteries From Popping Loose, for more
information.*
^ Turn on the TPMS sensor tool by following the HDS instructions. There are two different
wavelengths used, and there are two ways to turn on the TPMS sensor tool. If the TPMS sensor
tool is not turned on correctly, you won't be able to troubleshoot the vehicle or do the sensor ID
learning procedure.
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^ Turn off the TPMS sensor tool by pressing and holding the small button as shown until the green
light in the button turns off. The tool will also turn off after 5 minutes of inactivity.
NOTE:
Offset your finger, or use just your nail to push the buttons, so you can see the light in the buttons.
Two AC adapters are included in the TPMS sensor tool kit. The 900 AC adapter is for the battery
charger. Use the straight AC adapter to power the TPMS sensor tool when charged batteries are
not available.
NOTE:
^ The AC adapter does not charge the batteries in the TPMS sensor tool.
^ Remove the batteries from the TPMS sensor tool when using the AC adapter.
There are two ways to charge the batteries. The method to use depends on the batteries' state of
charge. For brand new or fully discharged batteries:
1. Connect the AC adapter to the charger (make sure you use the AC adapter with the 90° bend).
2. Insert the batteries into the charger. Make sure you note the polarity (direction) of the batteries.
3. Plug the charger into a power outlet. The LEDs turn red, and quick charging begins.
NOTE:
^ If the LEDs do not come on, check that the batteries are properly installed. If the LEDs still do not
come on, replace the batteries.
^ If you press the red button while the batteries are charging, the battery discharge mode begins.
Press the red button again within 30 seconds, and the charger switches back to its quick charge
mode.
^ When the LEDs turn green, the batteries are charged, and the battery charger automatically
switches to trickle charge mode.
^ Remove the batteries from the charger when it is not plugged in.
For charging batteries when you don't know the state of charge:
1. Connect the AC adapter to the charger (make sure you use the AC adapter with the 90° bend).
2. Insert the batteries into the charger. Make sure you note the polarity (direction) of the batteries.
4. Press the red button once to start the discharge mode. The LEDs blink red.
NOTE:
^ If the LEDs do not come on, check that the batteries are properly installed. If the LEDs still do not
come on, replace the batteries.
^ If you press the red button a second time within 30 seconds, the battery quick charge mode
begins.
^ Once the batteries are discharged, the LEDs turn solid red and the battery quick charge mode
begins.
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^ When the LEDs turn green, the batteries are charged, and the battery charger automatically
switches to trickle charge mode.
^ Remove the batteries from the charger when it is not plugged in.
When the TPMS sets a DTC, it refers to Tire 1, Tire 2, Tire 3, or Tire 4. In the service manual, the
tire number is the sensor number. For example, Tire 2 is sensor 2.
However, the tire number is not the tire position. To diagnose or repair the vehicle, do the sensor
position check to find the location of the problem tire (or sensor) on the vehicle.
7. In the System Selection Menu, select TPMS, then select the Enter button.
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8. In the Mode menu, select Functional Tests, then select the Enter button.
9. In the Functional Test menu, select Sensor Position Check, then select the Enter button.
*10. On the Sensor Position Check screen, turn on the TPMS sensor tool by following the
on-screen instructions. (The Accord is shown on the sample
screen.)*
NOTE:
Each model is different. Turning on the TPMS sensor tool incorrectly could lead to incorrect
diagnosis and repair.
Once the TPMS sensor tool is turned on, select the YES button.
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11. Follow the instructions on the Sensor Position Check screen. When prompted, go to the left
front wheel, then select the Enter button.
12. Wait about 5 seconds, and the Sensor Position Check screen changes to an operation
progress bar.
* NOTE:
^ Wait for the timer to start. When the blue bar appears, use the TPMS sensor tool.*
^ If the sensor IDs appear without the TPMS sensor tool button being pushed, a TPMS sensor is
transmitting. Select the Exit button, wait 5 minutes for the sensor to go to sleep, then follow the
on-screen prompts.
13. Point and hold the TPMS sensor tool 10 to 20 inches from the left front wheel valve stem. Press
and hold the large transmit button for up to 1 minute. The button should flash red. The TPMS
sensor tool sends a signal to the TPMS sensor to turn on and broadcast the TPMS sensor ID to the
TPMS control unit.
14. Watch for the TPMS sensor IDs to appear on the HDS screen. The TPMS control unit must
read the sensor ID five times to complete the learning
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procedure.
NOTE:
15. The TPMS sensor ID learning changes to the following screen once the procedure is complete.
Select the Enter button.
NOTE:
If the sensor does not respond (no sensor IDs are displayed), rotate the tire one-quarter turn and
try again. If the TPMS sensor does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, switch the tire to a
known-good location and try again. If the TPMS sensor still does not respond after one full rotation
of the tire, replace the TPMS sensor.
16. When prompted, go to the left rear wheel, then select the Enter button.
17. The TPMS sensor ID learning procedure goes through the same steps as the left front wheel
(see steps 12 thru 15). When the timer starts (the blue bar appears), point and hold the TPMS
sensor tool 10 to 20 inches from the left rear wheel valve stem. Press and hold the large transmit
button for up to 1 minute. The button should flash red. The TPMS sensor tool sends a signal to the
TPMS sensor to turn on and broadcast the TPMS sensor
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ID to the TPMS control unit.
NOTE:
^ If the sensor IDs appear without the TPMS sensor tool button being pushed, a TPMS sensor is
transmitting. Select the Exit button, wait 5 minutes for the sensors to go to sleep, then follow the
on-screen prompts.
^ If the sensor does not respond (no sensor IDs are displayed), rotate the tire one-quarter turn and
try again. If the TPMS sensor does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, switch the tire to a
known-good location and try again. If the TPMS sensor still does not respond after one full rotation
of the tire, replace the TPMS sensor.
18. When prompted, go to the right rear wheel, then select the Enter button.
19. The TPMS sensor ID learning procedure goes through the same steps as the left front wheel
(see steps 12 thru 15). When the timer starts (the blue bar appears), point and hold the TPMS
sensor tool 10 to 20 inches from the right rear wheel valve stem. Press and hold the large transmit
button for up to 1 minute. The button should flash red. The TPMS sensor tool sends a signal to the
TPMS sensor to turn on and broadcast the TPMS sensor ID to the TPMS control unit.
NOTE:
^ If the sensor IDs appear without the TPMS sensor tool button being pushed, a TPMS sensor is
transmitting. Select the Exit button, wait 5 minutes for the sensors to go to sleep, then follow the
on-screen prompts.
^ If the sensor does not respond (no sensor IDs are displayed), rotate the tire one-quarter turn and
try again. If the TPMS sensor does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, switch the tire to a
known-good location and try again. If the TPMS sensor still does not respond after one full rotation
of the tire, replace the TPMS sensor.
20. When prompted, go to the right front wheel, then select the Enter button.
21. The TPMS sensor ID learning procedure goes through the same steps as the left front wheel
(see steps 12 thru 15). When the timer starts (the blue bar appears), point and hold the TPMS
sensor tool 10 to 20 inches from the right front wheel valve stem. Press and hold the large transmit
button for up to 1 minute. The button should flash red. The TPMS sensor tool sends a signal to the
TPMS sensor to turn on and broadcast the TPMS
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NOTE:
^ If the sensor IDs appear without the TPMS sensor tool button being pushed, a TPMS sensor is
transmitting. Select the Exit button, wait 5 minutes for the sensors to go to sleep, then follow the
on-screen prompts.
^ If the sensor does not respond (no sensor IDs are displayed), rotate the tire one-quarter turn and
try again. If the TPMS sensor does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, switch the tire to a
known-good location and try again. If the TPMS sensor still does not respond after one full rotation
of the tire, replace the TPMS sensor.
22. The sensor position check is complete. Using the DTC(s) and the information on the Sensor
Position Check screen, locate the problem tire.
If the vehicle has DTC 22-1,this means that the problem is in tire 2 (sensor 2).
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You must refer to the Sensor Position Check screen to see what location tire 2 is in. Do not
assume it is in position 2 (left rear tire).
According to the Sensor Position Check screen tire 2 is in position 1, the left front tire.
SENSOR ID LEARNING
NOTE:
Even if you replace only one sensor, the Sensor ID Learning procedure must be done to all four
wheels.
6. In the Select Mode menu, select Honda Systems, and select the Enter button.
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7. In the System Selection Menu, select TPMS, then select the Enter button.
8. In the Mode Menu, select Sensor ID Learning, then select the Enter button.
NOTE:
Make sure there are no other vehicles or other wheels with TPMS sensors within 10 feet of the
vehicle you are working on.
10. On the TPMS Sensor ID Learning screen, turn on the TPMS sensor tool by following the
on-screen instructions. The Accord is shown on the sample screen.
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NOTE:
Each model is different. Turning on the TPMS sensor tool incorrectly could lead to incorrect
diagnosis and repair.
Once the TPMS sensor tool is turned on, select the YES button.
11. Follow the instructions on the TPMS Sensor ID Learning screen. When prompted, go to the left
front wheel, then select the Enter button.
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12. Wait about 5 seconds, and the TPMS Sensor ID Learning screen should change to an
operation progress bar.
NOTE:
^ Wait for the timer to start. When you see the blue bar, use the TPMS sensor tool.
^ If the sensor IDs appear without the TPMS sensor tool button being pushed, a TPMS sensor is
transmitting. Select the Exit button, wait 5 minutes for the sensor to go to sleep, then follow the
on-screen prompts.
13. Point and hold the TPMS sensor tool 10 to 20 inches from the left front wheel valve stem. Press
and hold the large transmit button for up to 1 minute. The button should flash red. The TPMS
sensor tool sends a signal to the TPMS sensor to turn on and broadcast the TPMS sensor ID to the
TPMS control unit.
14. Watch for the TPMS sensor IDs to appear on the HDS screen The TPMS control unit must read
the sensor ID five times to complete the learning procedure.
NOTE:
15. The TPMS sensor ID learning changes to the following screen once the procedure is complete.
Select the Enter button.
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NOTE:
If the sensor does not respond (no sensor IDs are displayed), rotate the tire one-quarter turn and
try again. If the TPMS sensor does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, switch the tire to a
known-good location and try again. If the TPMS sensor still does not respond after one full rotation
of the tire, replace the TPMS sensor.
16. When prompted, go to the left rear wheel, then select the Enter button.
17. The TPMS sensor ID learning procedure goes through the same steps as the left front wheel
(see steps 12 thru 15). When the timer starts (the blue bar appears), point and hold the TPMS
sensor tool 10 to 20 inches from the left rear wheel valve stem. Press and hold the large transmit
button for up to 1 minute. The button should flash red. The TPMS sensor tool sends a signal to the
TPMS sensor to turn on and broadcast the TPMS sensor ID to the TPMS control unit.
NOTE:
^ If the sensor IDs appear without the TPMS sensor tool button being pushed, a TPMS sensor is
transmitting. Select the Exit button, wait 5 minutes for the sensor to go to sleep, then follow the
on-screen prompts.
^ If the sensor does not respond (no sensor IDs are displayed), rotate the tire one-quarter turn and
try again. If the TPMS sensor does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, switch the tire to a
known-good location and try again. If the TPMS sensor still does not respond after one full rotation
of the tire, replace the TPMS sensor.
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18. When prompted, go to the right rear wheel, then select the Enter button.
19. The TPMS sensor ID learning procedure goes through the same steps as the left front wheel
(see steps 12 thru 15). When the timer starts (the blue bar appears), point and hold the TPMS
sensor tool 10 to 20 inches from the right rear wheel valve stem. Press and hold the large transmit
button for up to 1 minute. The button should flash red. The TPMS sensor tool sends a signal to the
TPMS sensor to turn on and broadcast the TPMS sensor ID to the TPMS control unit.
NOTE:
^ If the sensor IDs appear without the TPMS sensor tool button being pushed, a TPMS sensor is
transmitting. Select the Exit button, wait 5 minutes for the sensor to go to sleep, then follow the
on-screen prompts.
^ If the sensor does not respond (no sensor IDs are displayed), rotate the tire one-quarter turn and
try again. If the TPMS sensor does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, switch the tire to a
known-good location and try again. If the TPMS sensor still does not respond after one full rotation
of the tire, replace the TPMS sensor.
20. When prompted, go to the right front wheel, then select the Enter button.
21. The TPMS sensor ID learning procedure goes through the same steps as the left front wheel
(see steps 12 thru 15). When the timer starts (the blue bar appears), point and hold the TPMS
sensor tool 10 to 20 inches from the right front wheel valve stem. Press and hold the large transmit
button for up to 1 minute. The button should flash red. The TPMS sensor tool sends a signal to the
TPMS sensor to turn on and broadcast the TPMS sensor ID to the TPMS control unit.
NOTE:
^ If the sensor IDs appear without the TPMS sensor tool button being pushed, a TPMS sensor is
transmitting. Select the Exit button, wait 5 minutes for the sensor to go to sleep, then follow the
on-screen prompts.
^ If the sensor does not respond (no sensor IDs are displayed), rotate the tire one-quarter turn and
try again. If the TPMS sensor does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, switch the tire to a
known-good location and try again. If the TPMS sensor still does not respond after one full rotation
of the tire, replace the TPMS sensor.
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22. The sensor ID learning procedure is complete. Select the Enter button to continue to register
the TPMS sensor IDs in the TPMS unit.
23. The low tire pressure indicator is flashing and requires road-testing the vehicle. On the TPMS
Sensor ID Learning screen, select the Enter button.
24. Drive the vehicle for 2 minutes above 30 mph, or until the low tire pressure indicator goes off.
Once the indicator goes off, stop the vehicle.
25. In the Mode Menu, select the Data List, and then select the Enter button. Check the tire
pressure at all four tires to confirm that the TPMS control unit is reading the correct tire pressures.
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26. Return to the Mode Menu, select DTCs, then select the Enter button.
Disclaimer
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Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 6614
Tire Pressure Sensor: Testing and Inspection Memorizing the Tire Pressure Sensor ID
TPMS sensor initializer tool AKS0620006 Available through the American Honda Tool and
Equipment Program; call 1-888-424-6857
All four tire pressure sensor IDs must be memorized to the TPMS control unit whenever you do any
of these actions:
NOTE: ^
To ensure the control unit memorizes the correct ID, the vehicle with the new sensor must be at
least 10 ft (3 m) away from other vehicles that have tire pressure sensors.
1. With the ignition switch at LOCK (0) wait 5 minutes or more for the TPMS sensors to go to sleep
mode. Connect the HDS to the data link
connector (DLC) (A) located under the driver's side of the dashboard.
2. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 3. Make sure the HDS communicates with the vehicle and the
TPMS control unit. If it doesn't, troubleshoot the DLC circuit. 4. Select Sensor ID Learning from the
mode menu on the HDS. 5. Follow HDS screen prompts to turn on the TPMS sensor initializer tool
(A). Verify the power switch (B) is in the "Low" position.
6. Hold the TPMS sensor initializer tool near one wheel, memorize the pressure sensor ID by
following the screen prompts on the HDS.
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7. Repeat step 6 for each wheel until all four sensor IDs are memorized. When all four IDs are
memorized, the low tire pressure indicator blinks. 8. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). 9.
Disconnect the HDS from the DLC.
10. Test-drive the vehicle at 28 mph (45 km/h) or more for at least 1 minute. 11. Make sure the low
tire pressure indicator does not blink. 12. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). 13. Reduce the
pressure in one tire until it is less than the appropriate specification. 14. Turn the ignition switch to
ON (II). 15. Test-drive the vehicle at 28 mph (45 km/h) or more for at least 1 minute. 16. Make sure
the low tire pressure indicator turns on, then inflate the tire. 17. Repeat step 12 to 16 for all the
other tires. 18. Clear any DTCs with the HDS.
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Tire Pressure Sensor: Testing and Inspection Tire Pressure Sensor Location
NOTE: This procedure locates where the tire pressure sensors number 1, 2, 3, 4 are mounted,
when activated by the TPMS sensor initializer tool.
^ Memorizing tire pressure sensor IDs (including replacing the TPMS control unit, or the tire
pressure sensors).
^ Wheel rotation.
1. With the ignition switch at LOCK (0), connect the HDS to the data link connector (DLC (A)
located under the driver's side of the dashboard.
2. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 3. Make sure the HDS communicates with the vehicle and the
TPMS control unit. If it doesn't, troubleshoot the DLC circuit. 4. Select Function Test from the mode
menu, then select Sensor Position Check on the HDS. 5. Follow HDS screen prompts to turn on
the TPMS sensor initializer tool (A). Verify the power switch (B) is in the "Low" position.
6. Follow the prompts on the HDS to activate the tire pressure sensors using the TPMS sensor
initializer tool. Start with the left-front (LF) wheel.
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7. Check the HDS screen, and note the active sensor reception order of the tire pressure sensor 1,
2, 3, 4.
NOTE: If the sensor does not respond to the TPMS initializer, rotate the tire 1/4 turn and retry. If
the sensor still does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, swap the tire to a known-good
location and retry. If the sensor still does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, replace the
tire pressure sensor.
8. Note the sensor location for reference. 9. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0).
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Tire Pressure Sensor: Service and Repair
Removal
1. Raise the vehicle, and support it with safety stands in the proper locations. 2. Remove the wheel
with the faulty sensor. 3. Remove the tire valve stem cap and the valve stem core, and let the tire
deflate. 4. Remove any balance weights, and then break the bead loose from the wheel with a
commercially available tire changer (A).
5. Position the wheel so the tire machine (A) and tire iron (B) are next to the valve stem (C) and will
move away from it when the machine starts.
6. Remove the valve stem nut (A) and washer (B), then remove the tire pressure sensor with valve
stem (C) from the wheel.
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7. Remove and discard the valve stem grommet (A) from the tire pressure sensor (B).
NOTE: ^
The valve stem grommet might stay in the wheel; make sure you remove it.
^ Always use a new valve stem grommet whenever the tire pressure sensor has been removed
from the wheel. When only removing a tire from the wheel, replace the valve stem grommet if it is
possible.
Installation
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1. Before installing the tire pressure sensor, clean the mating surfaces on the sensor and the
wheel. 2. Install the tire pressure sensor (A) and the washer (B) to the wheel (C), and tighten the
valve stem nut (D) finger tight. Make sure the pressure
3. Tighten the valve stem nut to the specified torque while holding the tire pressure sensor.
NOTE: ^
Do not use air or electric impact tools to tighten a valve stem nut.
^ Do not twist the tire pressure sensor to adjust its position with the wheel, as this will damage or
deform the valve stem grommet.
4. Lube the tire bead sparingly, and position the wheel so the tire machine (A) and tire iron (B) are
next to the valve stem (C) and will move away
from it when the machine starts. Then install the tire onto the wheel.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Tire Monitoring System > Tire Pressure
Sensor > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Page 6623
5. With a dry air source, inflate the tire to 300 kPa (3.1 kgf/cm2, 44 psi) to seat the tire bead to the
rim, then adjust the tire pressure, then install the
NOTE: Make sure the tire bead is seated on both sides of the rim uniformly.
6. Check and adjust the wheel balance, then install the wheels on the vehicle. 7. Remove the jack
stands, and lower the vehicle. Torque the wheel nuts to specifications. 8. Connect the HDS, and
memorize the pressure sensor IDs using the TPMS sensor initializer tool.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Wheels > Component Information > Testing
and Inspection
Wheels: Testing and Inspection
1. Raise the vehicle, and support it with safety stands in the proper locations. 2. Check for bent or
deformed wheels. 3. Set up the dial gauge as shown, and measure the axial runout by turning the
wheel.
4. Reset the dial gauge to the position shown, and measure the radial runout.
5. If the wheel runout is not within the specification, check the wheel bearing end play, and make
sure the mating surfaces on the brake disc or the
6. If the bearing end play is within the specification but the wheel runout is more than the service
limit, replace the wheel.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Wheel Bearing > Component Information >
Testing and Inspection
1. Raise the vehicle, and support it with safety stands in the proper locations. 2. Remove the
wheels. 3. Install suitable flat washers (A) and the wheel nuts. Tighten the nuts to the specified
torque to hold the brake disc or the, brake drum securely
4. Attach the dial gauge. Place the dial gauge against the hub flange. 5. Measure the bearing end
play by moving the brake disc or the brake drum inward and outward.
Front/Rear:
6. If the bearing end play measurement is more than the standard, replace the wheel bearing or the
hub bearing unit.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Wheel Bearing > Component Information >
Service and Repair > Front Suspension
Knucle/Hub/Wheel Bearing
^ Attachment, 78 x 90 mm 07GAD-SD40101
^ Attachment, 62 x 68 mm 07746-0010500
Knuckle/Hub Replacement
1. Raise the front of the vehicle, and support it with safety stands in the proper locations.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Wheel Bearing > Component Information >
Service and Repair > Front Suspension > Page 6632
2. Remove the wheel nuts (A) and the front wheel.
3. Remove the brake hose mounting bolt (A) from the damper.
4. Remove the brake caliper bracket mounting bolts (B), then remove the caliper assembly (C) from
the knuckle. To prevent damage to the caliper
assembly or brake hose, use a short piece of wire to hang the caliper assembly from the
undercarriage. Do not twist the brake hose excessively.
5. Remove the wheel speed sensor (A) from the knuckle (B). Do not disconnect the wheel speed
sensor connector.
6. Raise the stake (A), then remove the spindle nut (B).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Wheel Bearing > Component Information >
Service and Repair > Front Suspension > Page 6633
7. Remove the brake disc. 8. Check the front hub for damage and cracks. 9. Remove the cotter pin
(A) from the tie-rod end ball joint, then remove the nut (B).
10. Disconnect the tie-rod end ball joint from the knuckle using the ball joint remover. 11. Remove
the flange bolt and the self-locking nuts from the lower arm (A).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Wheel Bearing > Component Information >
Service and Repair > Front Suspension > Page 6634
12. Disconnect the lower ball joint (E) from the lower arm. 13. Remove the damper pinch bolts (A)
and the self locking nuts (B) from the damper.
14. Remove the driveshaft outboard joint (C) from the knuckle (D) by tapping the driveshaft end (E)
with a soft face hammer while drawing the hub
NOTE: ^
Do not pull the driveshaft end outward. The driveshaft inboard joint may come apart.
^ During installation, apply grease to the mating surfaces of the wheel bearing and driveshaft
outboard joint.
15. Remove the lock pin (A) from the lower ball joint, then remove the castle nut (B).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Wheel Bearing > Component Information >
Service and Repair > Front Suspension > Page 6635
16. Disconnect the lower ball joint (C) from the knuckle using the ball joint thread protector and the
ball joint remover. 17. Install the knuckle/hub in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
^ First install all the components, and lightly tighten the bolts and nuts, then raise the suspension to
load it with the vehicle's weight before fully tightening to the specified torque values.
^ Be careful not to damage the ball joint boot when connecting the knuckle.
^ Before connecting the lower ball joint to the knuckle, degrease the threaded section and tapered
portion of the ball joint pin, the ball joint connecting hole, the threaded section and mating surfaces
of the castle nut.
^ Torque the castle nut to the lower torque specification, then tighten it only far enough to align the
slot with the ball joint pin hole. Do not align the castle nut by loosening it.
^ Before installing the spindle nut, apply a small amount of engine oil to the seating surface of the
nut. After tightening, use a drift to stake the spindle nut shoulder against the driveshaft.
^ Before installing the brake disc, clean the mating surfaces of the front hub and the inside of the
brake disc.
^ Before installing the wheel, clean the mating surfaces of the brake disc and the inside of the
wheel.
1. Separate the hub (A) from the knuckle (B) using the hub dis/assembly tool and a hydraulic press.
Hold the knuckle with the attachment (C) of the
hydraulic press or equivalent tool. Be careful not to deform the splash guard (D). Hold onto the hub
to keep it from failing when pressed clear.
2. Press the wheel bearing inner race (A) off of the hub (B) using the hub dis/assembly tool, a
commercially available bearing separator (C), and a
press.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Wheel Bearing > Component Information >
Service and Repair > Front Suspension > Page 6636
3. Remove the splash guard (A) and the snap ring (B) from the knuckle (C).
4. Press the wheel bearing (A) out of the knuckle (B) using the attachment, the driver, and a press.
5. Wash the knuckle and hub thoroughly in high flash point solvent before reassembly. 6. Press a
new wheel bearing (A) into the knuckle. (B) using the old bearing (C), a steel plate (D), the
attachment, the support base, and a press.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Wheel Bearing > Component Information >
Service and Repair > Front Suspension > Page 6637
7. Install the snap ring (A) securely in the knuckle (B).
8. Install the splash guard (C), and tighten the screws (D) to the specified torque value. 9. Install
the hub (A) onto the knuckle (B) using the attachment, the driver, the support base, and a hydraulic
press. Be careful not to distort the
1. Raise the rear of the vehicle, and support it with safety stands in the proper locations. 2. Remove
the wheel nuts (A) and the rear wheel.
3. Remove the brake hose mounting bolt (A) from the bracket.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Wheel Bearing > Component Information >
Service and Repair > Front Suspension > Page 6641
4. Remove the brake caliper bracket mounting bolts (B), then remove the caliper assembly (C) from
the knuckle. To prevent damage to the caliper
assembly or brake hose, use a short piece of wire to hang the caliper assembly from the
undercarriage. Do not twist the brake hose excessively.
6. Remove the brake disc. 7. Remove the hub bearing unit (A) and the O-ring (B).
8. Check the hub bearing unit for damage and cracks. 9. Install the hub bearing unit in the reverse
order of removal, and note these items:
^ Before installing the brake disc, clean the mating surfaces of the hub bearing unit and the inside
of the brake disc.
^ Before installing the wheel, clean the mating surfaces of the brake disc and the inside of the
wheel.
1. Raise the rear of the vehicle, and support it with safety stands in the proper locations. 2. Remove
the wheel nuts (A) and the rear wheel.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Wheel Bearing > Component Information >
Service and Repair > Front Suspension > Page 6642
3. Release the parking brake, and remove the brake drum. 4. Remove the hub bearing unit (A) and
the O-ring (B).
5. Check the hub bearing unit for damage and cracks. 6. Install the hub bearing Unit in the reverse
order of removal, and note these items:
^ Before installing the brake drum, clean the mating surfaces of the hub bearing unit and the inside
of the brake drum.
^ Before installing the wheel, clean the mating surfaces of the brake drum and the inside of the
wheel.
1. Remove the hub bearing unit. 2. Remove the splash guard (A).
3. Remove the wheel speed sensor (A), and the brake hose mounting bracket (B) from the knuckle
(C). Do not disconnect the wheel speed sensor
connector.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Wheel Bearing > Component Information >
Service and Repair > Front Suspension > Page 6643
4. Remove the parking brake cable mounting bolt (E) from the knuckle. 5. Place a floor jack under
the trailing arm to support it.
NOTE: Do not place the jack against the plate section of the lower arm. Be careful not to damage
any suspension components.
6. Remove the upper arm mounting bolt (A), and disconnect the upper arm (B) from the knuckle.
7. Remove the rear knuckle upper bracket (C). 8. Mark the cam positions of the adjusting bolt (A)
and the adjusting cam plate (B), then remove the self locking nut (C), the adjusting cam plate, and
10. Install the knuckle in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
^ First install all the components, and lightly tighten the bolts and nuts, then raise the suspension to
load it with the vehicle's weight before fully tightening to the specified torque values.
^ Align the cam positions of the adjusting bolt and the adjusting cam plate with the marked
positions when tightening.
^ Before installing the wheel, clean the mating surfaces of the brake disc and the inside of the
wheel.
1. Remove the hub bearing unit. 2. Disconnect the brake line (A) from the wheel cylinder (B).
Remove the backing plate (C) with brake shoes assembly from the knuckle.
3. Remove the wheel speed sensor (A), and the brake hose mounting bracket (B) from the knuckle
(C). Do not disconnect the wheel speed sensor
connector.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Wheel Bearing > Component Information >
Service and Repair > Front Suspension > Page 6645
4. Place a floor jack under the trailing arm to support it.
NOTE: Do not place the jack against the plate section of the lower arm. Be careful not to damage
any suspension components,
5. Remove the upper arm mounting bolt (A), and disconnect the upper arm (B) from the knuckle.
6. Remove the rear knuckle upper bracket (C). 7. Mark the cam positions of the adjusting bolt W
and the adjusting cam plate (B), then remove the self locking nut (C), the adjusting cam plate, and
9. Install the knuckle in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
^ First install all the components, and lightly tighten the bolts and nuts, then raise the suspension to
load it with the vehicle's weight before fully tightening to the specified torque values.
^ Align the cam positions of the adjusting bolt and the adjusting cam plate with the marked-,
positions when tightening.
^ Before installing the wheel, clean the mating surfaces of the brake drum and the inside of the
wheel.
^ Fill the master cylinder reservoir to the MAX (upper) level line, and bleed the brake system.
Check for a leak at the brake hose/line joint, and retighten it if necessary.
Spindle Nut
Knucle/Hub/Wheel Bearing
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Wheel Fastener > Component Information >
Specifications
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Wheel Fastener > Component Information >
Specifications > Page 6654
Wheel Fastener: Service and Repair
NOTICE: ^
Do not use a hammer or air or electric impact tools to remove and install the wheel bolts.
1. Raise the vehicle, and support it with safety stands in the proper locations. 2. Remove the brake
disc or the brake drum. 3. Separate the wheel bolt (A) from the hub (B) using the ball joint remover
(C), and keep the jaw (D) of ball joint remover vertical against the wheel
bolt.
4. Insert the new wheel bolt (A) into the hub (B) while aligning the splined surfaces (C) on the hub
hole with the wheel bolt. Adjust the measurement
(D) with washers (P/N 94101-12800 or equivalent) (E), then install a nut (P/N 90304-SC2-000 or
equivalent) (F) hand-tight.
5. Tighten the nut until the wheel bolt is drawn fully into the hub. Do not exceed the maximum
torque limit. Make sure there is no gap (G) between
NOTE: ^
If you cannot tighten the wheel nut to the specified torque value when installing the wheel, replace
the front hub or the rear hub bearing unit as an assembly.
^ Before installing the wheel, clean the mating surfaces of the brake disc and the inside of the
wheel.
1. Remove the front hub. 2. Separate the wheel bolt (A) from the hub (B) using a hydraulic press.
Support the hub with hydraulic press attachments (C) or equivalent tools.
3. Insert the new wheel bolt into the hub while aligning the splined surfaces on the hub hole with
the wheel bolt.
NOTE: ^
^ Make sure the wheel bolt is installed vertically in relation to the hub disc surface.
4. Install the wheel bolt using a hydraulic press until the wheel bolt shoulder is fully seated. 5.
Install the front hub.
NOTE: If you cannot tighten the wheel nut to the specified torque value when installing the wheel,
replace the front hub as an assembly.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Air Door, HVAC > Air Door Actuator / Motor, HVAC >
Component Information > Locations
Air Door Actuator / Motor: Locations
Air Door Actuator / Motor: Service and Repair Air Mix Control Motor Replacement
1. Remove the driver's dashboard undercover. 2. Disconnect the 7P connector (A) from the air mix
control motor (B). Remove the self-tapping screws and the air mix control motor from the heater
unit.
3. Install the motor in the reverse order of removal. Make sure the pin on the motor is properly
engaged with the linkage. After installation, make
Air Door Actuator / Motor: Service and Repair Mode Control Motor Replacement
3. Disconnect the 7P connector (A) from the mode control motor (B). Remove the self-tapping
screws and the mode control motor from the heater
unit.
4. Install the motor in the reverse order of removal. Make sure the pin on the motor is properly
engaged with the linkage. After installation, make
Air Door Actuator / Motor: Service and Repair Recirculation Control Motor Replacement
1. Remove the glove box and the passenger's kick panel. 2. Disconnect the 7P connector (A) from
the recirculation control motor (B). Remove the self-tapping screws and the recirculation control
motor
3. Install the motor in the reverse order of removal. Make sure the pin on the motor is properly
engaged with the linkage. After installation, make
KTC trim tool set SOJATP2014 * * Available through the American Honda Tool and Equipment
Program.
NOTE: Take care not to scratch the dashboard and related parts.
1. Remove the subdisplay visor. 2. Remove the screws securing the driver's outer vent (A), then
remove the driver's outer vent from the subdisplay visor (B).
2. Remove the screws securing the driver's center vent (A), then remove the driver's center vent
from the center panel (B).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Air Register > Component Information > Service and Repair >
Dashboard Vent Removal/Installation > Page 6673
3. Install the center vent in the reverse order of removal.
Passenger's Vent
SRS components are located in this area. Review the SRS component locations, 2-door, 4-door
and the precautions and procedures before doing repairs or service.
NOTE:
- Use the appropriate tool from the KTC trim tool set to avoid damage when prying components.
1. While holding the glove box (A), release the glove box stop (B) on each side from the dashboard
by pushing them inside.
2. Push on the side hooks (A) by hand to release them. Gently pull out the side vent (B) to release
the other hooks (C), then remove the passenger's
vent.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Air Register > Component Information > Service and Repair >
Dashboard Vent Removal/Installation > Page 6674
Air Register: Service and Repair Side Defogger Vent Trim Removal/ Installation
NOTE: Take care not to scratch the dashboard and related parts.
1. Insert the trim tool into a gap between the side defogger vent trim (A) and the dashboard (B),
and release the hook (C).
2. Install the side defogger vent trim in the reverse order of removal.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Ambient Temperature Sensor / Switch HVAC > Component
Information > Locations
63. Outside Air Temperature Sensor (GX, EX, Si; Canada: LX)
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Blower Motor > Component Information > Locations
Circuit Schematics
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Blower Motor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 6688
Circuit Schematics
Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show
current flow, from power at the top of the diagram, to ground at the bottom.
Shared Circuits
Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that
connects one circuit to another, for example, is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it
pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or
component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring, check the operation of a
component it serves. If that component works, you know the shared wiring is OK.
Connectors
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Blower Motor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 6689
All in-line and junction connectors are numbered (C725, C416, etc.). Component connectors are
not numbered but are identified either by the name of the component if the component only has
one connector, or by a capital letter (A, B, C, etc.) if the component has more than one connector.
Below most connector numbers and component names are PHOTO and VIEW numbers. The
PHOTO number refers to a photo at Vehicle Level Locations that shows the connector's location on
the car. The VIEW number refers to an connector view at the Vehicle Level Connector Views that
shows the connector terminals, wire colors, connector cavity numbers, and other details.
The connector cavity numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector as seen
from either of the viewpoints. Except for the DLC (data link connector), disregard any numbers
molded into the connector housing.
Wires
Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the
stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number "2" next to the male
and female wire terminals at C554, for example, means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector
C554.
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the vehicle. Refer to the Power Distribution Diagram Set to get a more detailed
understanding of how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on. Individual circuit
schematics begin with a fuse. So if Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another
circuit share a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good
and power is available to the inoperative circuit.
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share the same
ground point.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Blower Motor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 6691
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Blower Motor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 6692
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Blower Motor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 6693
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Blower Motor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 6694
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Blower Motor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 6695
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Blower Motor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 6696
How to Identify Connector Terminals
Connector terminals are numbered according to the cavities they are in. The cavities are numbered
starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side or looking at the
female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the
same. All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not
the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the
connector face.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Blower Motor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 6697
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown above is #6.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Blower Motor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 6698
The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice
connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for
all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement
terminal availability.
On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged,
replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If
any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it.
Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the
wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the
terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to
make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a
factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS.
Use the tools from Pin Tool Set. First, check the connector that you are about to repair.
- If it has a secondary terminal lock, go to Connectors With a Secondary Lock. A secondary lock,
found on most connectors on some models, is an additional locking device on the connector
housing as a backup for the primary lock on the terminal.
- If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock.
All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the
secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the
connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities.
EXAMPLE A:
EXAMPLE B:
EXAMPLE C:
EXAMPLE D:
2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW
TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE E:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Blower Motor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 6702
1. Remove the secondary locks.
2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW
TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE F:
3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of
connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary
in size and shape.
EXAMPLE A:
EXAMPLE B:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Blower Motor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 6704
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE C:
EXAMPLE D:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Blower Motor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 6705
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE E:
EXAMPLE F:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Blower Motor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 6706
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE G:
1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct
replacement terminal based on the wire size range
NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part
number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available
through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures.
2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Blower Motor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 6707
3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the
wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from
the kit.)
NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did,
cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again.
4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the
anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown
in step 3.
6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact.
- If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool
over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the
stops make contact.
- If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully
squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Blower Motor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 6708
8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the following NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and
start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the
way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure
10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector.
Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too
short or when access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair.
On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged,
replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If
any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it.
1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from
Pin Tool Set.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Blower Motor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 6709
2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal,
then strip about half of the insulation off that piece.
This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal.
NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will
not nick or cut off any strands of wires.
3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and
same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit
onto the stripped end of the original wire.
5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the
pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more
than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at
the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the
harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make
each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail.
7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends
of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue
NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the
stripper.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Blower Motor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 6710
8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the
flare begins), and close the crimper handles far
enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click,
squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open.
9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the
wire all the way into the splice connector, and
squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until
the ratchet clicks again.
10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After
crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the
connector.
12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire(s), and shield them with
nonflammable material.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Blower Motor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 6711
13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the
gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat
evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete
when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube.
NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun.
Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the
wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size)
splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select
the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in
quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures.
Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the
Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching
connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body.
1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Blower Motor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 6712
2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool.
NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal
because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit.
3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal
with a replacement terminal from the appropriate
Five-Step Troubleshooting
Five-Step Troubleshooting
Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint.
Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
problem area.
Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by
tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground (certain
circuits contain a "How the Circuit Works" Diagram set). Also, trace circuits that share wiring with
the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on,
are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step
1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used
only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely
cause.
Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more
possible causes.
Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple
procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to
make tests at points that are easily accessible.
Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe
procedures.
Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire
problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure
no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur.
Test Equipment
Test Equipment
CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
1O-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up
of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to
various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is
voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital
volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is
between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM).
In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low
resistance means good continuity.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Blower Motor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 6713
Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a
reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is
affecting the measurement.
To order any test equipment shown, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool
numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin.
Jumper Wire
Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder
connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire
across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse.
To order any test equipment shown, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool
numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin.
Troubleshooting Precautions
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION: -
Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
- Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles.
2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part
Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place.
CAUTION: -
Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Blower Motor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 6714
- Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-mega
ohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that
contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
Troubleshooting Tests
Troubleshooting Tests
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt
ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest
"OHMS" range.
2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you
want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Blower Motor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 6715
4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or
no reading (zero), means good continuity.
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem. Circuits must be operating when checking
voltage drop.
1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts
range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage
is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM
voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Blower Motor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 6716
1. Remove the glove box. 2. Cut the plastic cross brace (A) in the glove box opening with diagonal
cutters in the area shown, and discard it.
4. Remove the wire harness clip (A), the self-tapping screws, and the passenger's heater duct (B).
5. Disconnect the connector (A) from the blower motor. Remove the wire harness clip (B).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Blower Motor > Component Information > Service and Repair >
Blower Unit Removal/Installation > Page 6719
6. Disconnect the connector (A) from the recirculation control motor. Remove the self-tapping
screws, the bolt, the mounting nuts, and the blower
unit (B).
7. Install the unit in the reverse order of removal. Make sure that there is no air leakage.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Blower Motor > Component Information > Service and Repair >
Blower Unit Removal/Installation > Page 6720
- The recirculation control motor (A), blower motor (B) and the dust arid pollen filter (C) can be
replaced without removing the blower unit.
- Before reassembly, make sure that the recirculation control linkage and door move smoothly
without binding.
- After reassembly, make sure the recirculation control motor runs smoothly.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Blower Motor Relay > Component Information > Locations
Use this chart to identify the type of relay, then do the test listed for it.
Normally-open type
- There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when battery positive terminal
is connected to the No. 4 terminal, and battery negative terminal is connected to the No. 3 terminal.
- There should be no continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power is
disconnected.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Cabin Air Filter > Component Information > Service and Repair
1. Open the glove box. Remove the glove box stop on each side, then let the glove box hang down.
2. Remove the dust and pollen filter assembly (A) from the evaporator.
3. Remove the filter (A) from the housing (B), and replace the filter.
4. Install the filter in the reverse order of removal. Make sure that there is no air leaking out of the
evaporator.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Cabin Ventilation Duct > Component Information > Service and
Repair
1. Remove the rear bumper. 2. Detach the hooks (A), then remove the rear air outlet (B). Take care
not to scratch the body.
3. Install the air outlet by pushing on the hook portions until the hooks snap into place.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Compressor HVAC > Compressor Clutch > Component
Information > Specifications
Compressor Clutch: Specifications
Clearance ............................................................................................................................................
.............................. 0.35 - 0.65 mm (0.014 - 0.026 in.)
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Compressor HVAC > Compressor Clutch > Component
Information > Specifications > Page 6735
Compressor Clutch: Testing and Inspection
1. Check the armature plate for discoloration, peeling, or other damage. If there is damage, replace
the clutch set. 2. Check the rotor pulley bearing play and drag by rotating the rotor pulley by hand.
Replace the clutch set with a new one if it is noisy or has
excessive play/drag.
3. Measure the clearance between the rotor pulley (A) and the armature plate (B) all the way
around. If the clearance is not within specified limits,
remove the armature plate and add or remove shims as needed to increase or decrease clearance.
NOTE: The shims are available in four thicknesses: 0.1 mm, 0.2 mm, 0.4 mm, and 0.5 mm.
4. Check for continuity between the A/C compressor clutch connector No. 1 and No. 3. If there is
no continuity, replace the thermal protector.
NOTE: The thermal protector will have no continuity above about 252 to 262 °C (122 to 128 °C).
When the temperature drops below about 241 to 219 °F (116 to 104 °C), the thermal protector will
have continuity.
5. Disconnect the field coil connector (A). Check resistance of the field coil. If resistance is not
within specifications, replace the field coil.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Compressor HVAC > Compressor Clutch > Component
Information > Specifications > Page 6736
A/C clutch holder, Robinair 10204 or Kent-Moore J37872, or Honda Tool and Equipment
KMT-J33939, commercially available
1. Remove the center nut while holding the armature plate (A) with a commercially available A/C
clutch holder (B).
2. Remove the armature plate (A) and shim(s) (B), taking care not to lose the shim(s). If the clutch
needs adjustment, increase or decrease the number
and thickness of shims as necessary, then reinstall the armature plate, and recheck its clearance.
NOTE: The shims are available in four thicknesses: 0.1 mm, 0.2 mm, 0.4 mm, and 0.5 mm.
3. If you are replacing the field coil, remove the snap ring (A) with snap ring pliers, then remove the
rotor pulley (B). Be careful not to damage the
4. Remove the bolt and holder (A), then disconnect the field coil connector (B). Remove the snap
ring (C) with snap ring pliers, then remove the field
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Compressor HVAC > Compressor Clutch > Component
Information > Specifications > Page 6738
coil (D). Be careful not to damage the field coil and A/C compressor.
5. Reassemble the clutch in the reverse order of disassembly, and note these items:
- Install the field coil with the wire side facing down, and align the boss on the field coil with the hole
in the A/C compressor.
- Clean the rotor pulley and A/C compressor sliding surfaces with contact cleaner or other
non-petroleum solvent.
- Install new snap rings, note the installation direction, and make sure they are fully seated in the
groove.
- Make sure that the rotor pulley turns smoothly after it's reassembled.
- Route and clamp the wires properly or they can be damaged by the rotor pulley.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Compressor Clutch Relay > Component Information >
Locations
When the PCM receives a demand for cooling from the A/C system, it delays the compressor from
being energized, and enriches the mixture to assure smooth transition to the A/C mode.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Compressor Clutch Relay > Component Information >
Locations > Page 6744
Compressor Clutch Relay: Testing and Inspection
Use this chart to identify the type of relay, then do the test listed for it.
Normally-open type
- There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when battery positive terminal
is connected to the No. 4 terminal, and battery negative terminal is connected to the No. 3 terminal.
- There should be no continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power is
disconnected.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Condenser HVAC > Component Information > Service and
Repair
Condenser HVAC: Service and Repair
1. Recover the refrigerant with a recovery/recycling/charging station. 2. Remove the front bumper.
3. Remove the bolts, then disconnect the discharge hose (A) from the A/C condenser.
4. Remove the bolt, then disconnect the receiver line (A) from the A/C condenser.
5. Remove the bolts and the A/C condenser upper mount brackets (A).
6. Lift the tab (A) to release the lock, then remove the outside air temperature sensor (B) from the
receiver/dryer desiccant bracket. Disconnect the 2P
7. Remove the A/C condenser (A). Be careful not to damage the radiator and A/C condenser fins
when removing the A/C condenser.
8. Install the A/C condenser in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
- If you're installing a new A/C condenser, add refrigerant oil (SP-10).
- Replace the O-rings with new ones at each fitting, and apply a thin coat of refrigerant oil before
installing them. Be sure to use the correct O-rings for HFC-134a (R-134a) to avoid leakage.
- Immediately after using the oil, reinstall the cap on the container, and seal it to avoid moisture
absorption.
- Do not spill the refrigerant oil on the vehicle; it may damage the paint; if the refrigerant oil contacts
the paint, wash it off immediately.
Use this chart to identify the type of relay, then do the test listed for it.
Normally-open type
- There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when battery positive terminal
is connected to the No. 4 terminal, and battery negative terminal is connected to the No. 3 terminal.
- There should be no continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power is
disconnected.
Five-terminal type
- There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when battery positive terminal
is connected to the No. 5 terminal, and battery negative terminal is connected to the No. 3 terminal.
- There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 4 terminals when power is disconnected.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Condenser Fan Motor Relay, HVAC > Component Information
> Locations > Page 6759
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Control Assembly, HVAC > Component Information >
Locations
Circuit Schematics
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Control Assembly, HVAC > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6769
Circuit Schematics
Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show
current flow, from power at the top of the diagram, to ground at the bottom.
Shared Circuits
Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that
connects one circuit to another, for example, is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it
pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or
component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring, check the operation of a
component it serves. If that component works, you know the shared wiring is OK.
Connectors
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Control Assembly, HVAC > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6770
All in-line and junction connectors are numbered (C725, C416, etc.). Component connectors are
not numbered but are identified either by the name of the component if the component only has
one connector, or by a capital letter (A, B, C, etc.) if the component has more than one connector.
Below most connector numbers and component names are PHOTO and VIEW numbers. The
PHOTO number refers to a photo at Vehicle Level Locations that shows the connector's location on
the car. The VIEW number refers to an connector view at the Vehicle Level Connector Views that
shows the connector terminals, wire colors, connector cavity numbers, and other details.
The connector cavity numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector as seen
from either of the viewpoints. Except for the DLC (data link connector), disregard any numbers
molded into the connector housing.
Wires
Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the
stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number "2" next to the male
and female wire terminals at C554, for example, means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector
C554.
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the vehicle. Refer to the Power Distribution Diagram Set to get a more detailed
understanding of how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on. Individual circuit
schematics begin with a fuse. So if Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another
circuit share a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good
and power is available to the inoperative circuit.
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share the same
ground point.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Control Assembly, HVAC > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6772
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Control Assembly, HVAC > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6773
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6774
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Control Assembly, HVAC > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6775
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Control Assembly, HVAC > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6776
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Control Assembly, HVAC > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6777
How to Identify Connector Terminals
Connector terminals are numbered according to the cavities they are in. The cavities are numbered
starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side or looking at the
female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the
same. All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not
the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the
connector face.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Control Assembly, HVAC > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6778
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown above is #6.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Control Assembly, HVAC > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6779
The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice
connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for
all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement
terminal availability.
On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged,
replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If
any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it.
Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the
wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the
terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to
make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a
factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS.
Use the tools from Pin Tool Set. First, check the connector that you are about to repair.
- If it has a secondary terminal lock, go to Connectors With a Secondary Lock. A secondary lock,
found on most connectors on some models, is an additional locking device on the connector
housing as a backup for the primary lock on the terminal.
- If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock.
All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the
secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the
connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities.
EXAMPLE A:
EXAMPLE B:
EXAMPLE C:
EXAMPLE D:
2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW
TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE E:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Control Assembly, HVAC > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6783
1. Remove the secondary locks.
2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW
TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE F:
3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of
connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary
in size and shape.
EXAMPLE A:
EXAMPLE B:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Control Assembly, HVAC > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6785
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE C:
EXAMPLE D:
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6786
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE E:
EXAMPLE F:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Control Assembly, HVAC > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6787
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE G:
1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct
replacement terminal based on the wire size range
NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part
number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available
through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures.
2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6788
3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the
wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from
the kit.)
NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did,
cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again.
4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the
anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown
in step 3.
6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact.
- If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool
over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the
stops make contact.
- If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully
squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape.
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6789
8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the following NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and
start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the
way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure
10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector.
Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too
short or when access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair.
On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged,
replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If
any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it.
1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from
Pin Tool Set.
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6790
2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal,
then strip about half of the insulation off that piece.
This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal.
NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will
not nick or cut off any strands of wires.
3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and
same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit
onto the stripped end of the original wire.
5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the
pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more
than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at
the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the
harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make
each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail.
7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends
of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue
NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the
stripper.
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6791
8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the
flare begins), and close the crimper handles far
enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click,
squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open.
9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the
wire all the way into the splice connector, and
squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until
the ratchet clicks again.
10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After
crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the
connector.
12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire(s), and shield them with
nonflammable material.
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6792
13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the
gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat
evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete
when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube.
NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun.
Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the
wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size)
splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select
the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in
quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures.
Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the
Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching
connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body.
1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector.
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6793
2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool.
NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal
because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit.
3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal
with a replacement terminal from the appropriate
Five-Step Troubleshooting
Five-Step Troubleshooting
Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint.
Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
problem area.
Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by
tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground (certain
circuits contain a "How the Circuit Works" Diagram set). Also, trace circuits that share wiring with
the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on,
are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step
1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used
only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely
cause.
Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more
possible causes.
Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple
procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to
make tests at points that are easily accessible.
Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe
procedures.
Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire
problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure
no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur.
Test Equipment
Test Equipment
CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
1O-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up
of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to
various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is
voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital
volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is
between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM).
In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low
resistance means good continuity.
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6794
Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a
reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is
affecting the measurement.
To order any test equipment shown, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool
numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin.
Jumper Wire
Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder
connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire
across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse.
To order any test equipment shown, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool
numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin.
Troubleshooting Precautions
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION: -
Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
- Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles.
2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part
Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place.
CAUTION: -
Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6795
- Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-mega
ohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that
contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
Troubleshooting Tests
Troubleshooting Tests
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt
ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest
"OHMS" range.
2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you
want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end.
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4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or
no reading (zero), means good continuity.
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem. Circuits must be operating when checking
voltage drop.
1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts
range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage
is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM
voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6797
1. Remove the center panel. 2. Remove the dials (A), the self-tapping screws, and the HVAC
control unit (B).
3. Install the control unit in the reverse order of removal. After installation, operate the various
functions to make sure they work properly. 4. Run the self-diagnostic function to confirm that there
are no problems in the system.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Control Assembly, HVAC > Component Information > Service
and Repair > HVAC Control Unit Removal/Installation > Page 6800
1. Remove the center panel. 2. Remove the dials (A), the self-tapping screws, and the heater
control panel (B).
3. Install the control panel in the reverse order of removal. After installation, operate the various
functions to make sure they work properly. 4. Run the self-diagnosis function to confirm that there
are no problems in the system.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Evaporator Core > Component Information > Service and
Repair
Evaporator Core: Service and Repair
3. Remove the nut, then disconnect the A/C lines (A) from the evaporator core.
5. Remove the blower unit. 6. Disconnect the connectors (A) from the evaporator temperature
sensor and the power transistor, then remove the connector clip (B). Remove the
self-tapping screws, the expansion valve cover (C), and the seal (D).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
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Repair > Page 6804
7. Carefully pull out the evaporator core (A) without bending the lines, then remove the plate (B).
8. Remove the clips (A) and the evaporator temperature sensor (B).
NOTE: For '07-08 2-door models; the evaporator temperature sensor is installed at the 11th fin
from the left side.
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Repair > Page 6805
9. '07-08 2-door models: When installing the evaporator temperature sensor (A), set the evaporator
temperature sensor in the right side fin from the
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Repair > Page 6806
previous position.
10. Install the core in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
- Replace the O-rings with new ones at each fitting, and apply a thin coat of refrigerant oil before
installing them. Be sure to use the correct O-rings for HFC-134a (R-134a) to avoid leakage.
- Immediately after using the oil, reinstall the cap on the container, and seal it to avoid moisture
absorption.
- Do not spill the refrigerant oil on the vehicle; it may damage the paint; if the refrigerant oil contacts
the paint, wash it off immediately.
1. Remove the evaporator core. 2. Remove the bolts (A) and expansion valve (B).
3. Install the expansion valve in the reverse order of removal, and note those items:
- Replace the O-rings with new ones at each fitting, and apply a thin coat of refrigerant oil before
installing them. Be sure to use the correct O-rings for HFC-134a (R-134a) to avoid leakage.
- Immediately after using the oil, reinstall the cap on the container, and seal it to avoid moisture
absorption.
- Do not spill the refrigerant oil on the vehicle; it may damage the paint; if the refrigerant oil contacts
the paint, wash it off immediately.
SRS components are located in this area. Review the SRS component locations and the
precautions and procedures before doing repairs or service.
1. Make sure you have the anti-theft codes for the audio system or the navigation system, then
write down the audio presets. 2. Make sure the ignition is in LOCK (0), then disconnect the
negative cable from the battery. 3. Remove the air cleaner housing assembly. 4. When the engine
is cool, drain the engine coolant from the radiator. 5. From under the hood, slide the hose clamps
(A) back. Disconnect the inlet heater hose (B) and the outlet heater hose (C) from the heater unit.
Note
the orientation of the hoses. Engine coolant will run out when the hoses are disconnected; drain it
into a clean drip pan. Be sure not to let coolant spill on the electrical parts or the painted surfaces.
If any coolant spills, rinse it off immediately.
6. Remove the mounting nut from the heater unit. Take care not to damage or bend the fuel lines or
brake lines, etc.
7. Remove the dashboard. 8. Disconnect the connector (A) from the blower motor. Remove the
wire harness clip (B).
clip (B).
11. Disconnect the connectors (A) from the air mix control motor and A/C wire harness. Remove
the connector clip (B), the wire harness clips (C),
12. Remove the mounting bolt, mounting nuts, and blower-heater unit (A).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Heater Core Case > Component Information > Service and
Repair > Heating > Page 6822
13. Remove the self-tapping screws, the heater core cover (A), the grommet (B), and carefully pull
out the heater core (C).
14. Install the heater core in the reverse order of removal. 15. Install the heater unit in the reverse
order of removal, and note these items:
- Do not interchange the inlet and outlet heater hoses, and install the hose clamps securely.
- Enter the anti-theft codes for the audio system or the navigation system, then enter the audio
presets.
SRS components are located in this area. Review the SRS component locations and the
precautions and procedures before doing repairs or service.
1. Make sure you have the anti-theft codes for the audio system or the navigation system, then
write down the audio presets. 2. Make sure the ignition is in LOCK (0), then disconnect the
negative cable from the battery. 3. Disconnect the A/C line from the evaporator core. 4. Remove
the air cleaner housing assembly. 5. When the engine is cool, drain the engine coolant from the
radiator. 6. From under the hood, slide the hose clamps (A) back. Disconnect the inlet heater hose
(B) and the outlet heater hose (C) from the heater unit. Note
the orientation of the hose. Engine coolant will run out when the hoses are disconnected; drain it
into a clean drip pan. Be sure not to let coolant spill on the electrical parts or the painted surfaces.
If any coolant spills, rinse it off immediately.
7. Remove the mounting nut from the heater unit. Take care not to damage or bend the fuel lines or
brake lines, etc..
8. Remove the dashboard. 9. Disconnect the connector (A) from the blower motor. Remove the
wire harness clip (B).
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Repair > Heating > Page 6824
10. Disconnect the connector (A) from the recirculation control motor.
11. Disconnect the connectors (A) from the mode control motor, the evaporator temperature
sensor, and the power transistor. Remove the wire harness
clip (B).
12. Disconnect the connectors (A) from the air mix control motor and A/C wire harness. Remove
the connector clip (B), the wire harness clips (C),
14. Remove the self-tapping screws, the heater core cover (A), the grommet (B), and carefully pull
out the heater core (C).
15. Install the heater core and the evaporator core in the reverse order of removal. 16. Install the
heater unit in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
- Do not interchange the inlet and outlet heater hoses, and install the hose clamps securely.
- Enter the anti-theft codes for the audio system or the navigation system, then enter the audio
presets.
NOTE: If the A/C compressor relief valve released refrigerant to the atmosphere, determine and
correct the cause of the excessive pressure in the system, then replace the relief valve.
1. Recover the refrigerant with a recovery/recycling/charging station. 2. Remove the relief valve
cover (A), the relief valve (B), and the O-ring (C). Plug the opening to keep foreign matter from
entering the system and
3. Clean the mating surfaces. 4. Replace the O-ring with a new one at the relief valve, and apply a
thin coat of refrigerant oil before installing it. 5. Remove the plug, and install and tighten the relief
valve. 6. Charge the system.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Hose/Line HVAC > Component Information > Service and
Repair
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Power Transistor HVAC > Component Information > Diagrams
2-door
NOTE: Install the receiver/dryer as quickly as possible to prevent the system from absorbing
moisture from the air.
1. Remove the A/C condenser. 2. Remove the cap (A) from the bottom of the A/C condenser.
Remove the O-rings (B) and the desiccant (C).
3. Install the receiver/dryer in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
- Replace the O-rings with new ones, and apply a thin coat of refrigerant oil (SP-10) before
installing them. Be sure to use the correct O-rings for HFC-134a (R-134a) to avoid leakage.
- Install the cap to the specified torque. It is made of resin a can be easily stripped.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Receiver Dryer > Component Information > Service and Repair
> 2-Door > Page 6839
4-door
NOTE: Install the receiver/dryer as quickly as possible to prevent the system from absorbing
moisture from the air.
1. Remove the A/C condenser. 2. Remove the bolts from the A/C condenser, then remove the
receiver/dryer (A), the bracket (B), and the O-rings (C).
3. Install the receiver/dryer in the reverse order of removal. Replace the O-rings with new ones,
and apply a thin coat of refrigerant oil (SP-10) before
installing them. Be sure to use the correct O-rings for HFC-134a (R-134a) to avoid leakage.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Refrigerant > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > A/C - Refrigerant Leak Detection
07-030
(Supersedes 07-030, dated June 15, 2007, to update the information marked by asterisks)
The OPTIMAX Jr. (TM)A/C Leak Detection Kit for Honda vehicles, P/N TRP124893, is a new
required tool. The kit is used to add small amounts of dye to A/C systems to help locate smaller
leaks that an electronic leak detector might not find.
When searching for leaks, always begin by using an electronic leak detector. Refer to Service
Bulletin 97-027, Denso HLD-100 Halogen Leak Detector; for tips on using this tool, then follow up
with the OPTIMAX Jr.
This new detection kit complements but does not replace the electronic detector.
^ TRP8640CS, OPTIMAX Jr. (TM) cordless, fluorescent leak detection flashlight lamp (includes 3
standard AA batteries)
^ TRP38600601, (6) 0.06 oz. (1.7 g) Tracer-Stick(R) R134a/PAG A/C dye capsules with ID labels
ORDERING INFO
*One OPTIMAX Jr. A/C Leak Detection Kit was shipped to each current dealer as a required
special tool. Additional kits and replacement capsules may be ordered through the Honda Tool and
Equipment Program. On the iN, click on Service, Service Bay, Tool and Equipment Program,
Online Catalog tab, and Air Conditioning Equipment, or call.*
NOTICE
^ Do not use leak-trace dye in any Honda hybrid vehicle equipped with a dual-scroll compressor
This can increase the chance of electric shock. The compressor is easily identified by the orange
high-voltage cable that is connected to the compressor body.
^ Only Tracer-Stick single-dose fluorescent dye capsules from Tracer Products (Tracerline(R)) are
approved for use in Honda vehicles. Other dyes contain solvents that may contaminate the
system's refrigerant oil, leading to component failure.
^ Adding excessive amounts of dye can lead to compressor damage and failure.
^ Check for a label in the engine compartment indicating that fluorescent leak-detection dye has
been added to the system.
^ Dye may have been added even though no label is present. To confirm this:
- Put on the fluorescence-enhancing glasses, and remove the low-side service port sealing cap.
- Direct the ultraviolet lamp into the valve stem area. If dye has been previously added, the
lubricant traces will have a bright yellow fluorescent glow. You may need to press the port's valve
stem briefly to release some lubricant and dye from the system.
NOTE:
Air and moisture must be evacuated from the universal connect set if it is being used for the first
time, or if it has been stored with the control valve open. If the air and moisture have been
evacuated, go to step 3; otherwise do the following:
(a) Attach the empty dye capsule (provided in the dye kit) to the control valve fitting.
(b) Attach the service valve fitting (provided in the kit) to the empty dye capsule.
(c) Attach the low-side hose of the A/C recovery and charging station, and open the quick coupler's
hand-wheel valve. Then open the control valve (black knob) on the universal connect set.
(d) Following the manufacturer's instructions for your recovery and charging station, evacuate the
universal connect set for approximately 3 minutes.
(e) When evacuation is complete, be sure the set's control valve is closed (finger tight), and
disconnect the NC recovery and charging station.
(f) Remove the service valve fitting and the empty dye capsule from the set, and store them for
future use.
NOTE:
^ Check the refrigerant charge level. There must be enough refrigerant in the system to operate the
A/C compressor and to circulate refrigerant oil.
^ If the refrigerant charge is too low, recover the remaining amount and recharge the system before
adding any dye.
(g) Start the vehicle and operate the A/C system. Follow your A/C refrigerant recovery and
charging station's operating instructions for low-side charging to install the dye.
* NOTE:
Only 0.05 lb (0.02 kg) of refrigerant is needed to push the dye into the A/C system.*
(h) Once the refrigerant charge is programmed, open the control valve on the set to allow the dye
to enter the system.
(i) After the dye capsule clears, allow the low-side of the A/C system to reach its lowest operating
pressure, then quickly close both the service equipment's low-side coupler valve and the control
valve on the set.
(j) Remove the set from the vehicle by releasing its quick coupler. Remove the empty dye capsule
from the service valve fitting. Return the hose, control valve, and service-valve fitting to the storage
case.
* NOTE:
Store the hose with the control valve closed. This will retain a small amount of refrigerant in the
hose so it does not have to be evacuated the next time you use it.*
(k) Fill out an identification label (provided in the kit), and attach it to a location near the A/C charge
label.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Refrigerant > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > A/C - Refrigerant Leak Detection > Page 6845
3. Connect the universal connect set and the Tracer- Stick dye capsule:
(a) Be sure the quick coupler and control valves on the set are closed.
(b) Remove the low-side service port sealing cap, and connect the set to the low-side service port
using the quick coupler.
(c) Hold a new dye capsule so that the embossed arrow is pointing up. Remove the black end cap,
and carefully attach the capsule to the control valve fitting.
NOTE:
The capsule must be held with the embossed arrow pointing up or the dye will leak out of the
capsule.
(d) Turn the capsule so the embossed arrow is pointing down. Remove the orange end cap, and
carefully attach the service valve fitting provided in the kit (finger tight).
NOTE:
The capsule must be held with the embossed arrow pointing down or the dye will leak out.
NOTE:
* ^ If you have recovered refrigerant to weigh it as part of your diagnostics, or if there is a low
charge, it is more efficient to recharge the system using normal procedures before installing the
universal connect set. Dye can then be added using approximately 0.05 lb (0.02 kg) of refrigerant.*
^ You do not need to connect the service equipment's high-side hose to the vehicle to install the
dye. If the high-side hose is connected, make sure its coupler valve is closed before proceeding.
^ Do not use the A/C recovery and charging station to recover or evacuate the A/C system when a
full dye capsule is attached. The dye will be drawn into the service equipment instead of being
added to the vehicle's A/C system.
(a) Run the A/C system for at least 15 minutes to circulate the dye through the system. Large leaks
will be seen immediately as a fluorescent yellow glow. Smaller leaks may require at least 24 hours
of vehicle operation before they become visible. Operate the A/C system as much as possible
during this time to keep the dye circulating.
(b) Stop the vehicle's engine and inspect the system for leaks using the ultraviolet (UV) lamp and
fluorescence-enhancing glasses from the kit.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Refrigerant > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > A/C - Refrigerant Leak Detection > Page 6846
Low ambient light conditions (a dark work area) will aid in locating the leak.
NOTE:
Not all UV lamps work well with all types of fluorescent dye. Use only the lamp provided in the kit to
inspect for leaks.
^ fittings
^ hose-to-line couplings
^ refrigerant controls
^ service ports
(d) Check for evaporator leaks by illuminating the evaporator drain tube area with the UV lamp and
glasses.
(e) After repairing a leak, remove any fluorescent residue using the GLO-AWAY dye cleaner from
the kit and hot water (follow the instructions on the bottle).
Disclaimer
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Refrigerant > Component Information > Specifications >
Capacity Specifications
Refrigerant: Capacity Specifications
Refrigerant Capacity:
Use this chart to identify the type of relay, then do the test listed for it.
Normally-open type
- There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when battery positive terminal
is connected to the No. 4 terminal, and battery negative terminal is connected to the No. 3 terminal.
- There should be no continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power is
disconnected.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Relays and Modules - HVAC > Compressor Clutch Relay >
Component Information > Locations
When the PCM receives a demand for cooling from the A/C system, it delays the compressor from
being energized, and enriches the mixture to assure smooth transition to the A/C mode.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Relays and Modules - HVAC > Compressor Clutch Relay >
Component Information > Locations > Page 6871
Compressor Clutch Relay: Testing and Inspection
Use this chart to identify the type of relay, then do the test listed for it.
Normally-open type
- There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when battery positive terminal
is connected to the No. 4 terminal, and battery negative terminal is connected to the No. 3 terminal.
- There should be no continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power is
disconnected.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Relays and Modules - HVAC > Condenser Fan Motor Relay,
HVAC > Component Information > Locations
Use this chart to identify the type of relay, then do the test listed for it.
Normally-open type
- There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when battery positive terminal
is connected to the No. 4 terminal, and battery negative terminal is connected to the No. 3 terminal.
- There should be no continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power is
disconnected.
Five-terminal type
- There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when battery positive terminal
is connected to the No. 5 terminal, and battery negative terminal is connected to the No. 3 terminal.
- There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 4 terminals when power is disconnected.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Relays and Modules - HVAC > Condenser Fan Motor Relay,
HVAC > Component Information > Locations > Page 6877
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Sensors and Switches - HVAC > Ambient Temperature Sensor
/ Switch HVAC > Component Information > Locations
63. Outside Air Temperature Sensor (GX, EX, Si; Canada: LX)
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Sensors and Switches - HVAC > Evaporator Temperature
Sensor / Switch > Component Information > Locations > Component Locations
1. Remove the bolt and the holder (A). Disconnect the field coil connector (B), then remove the
thermal protector (C).
2. Replace the thermal protector (A) with a new one, and apply silicone sealant (B) to the bottom of
the thermal protector.
NOTE: Before doing any SRS repairs, use the HDS SRS menu method to check for DTCs; refer to
the DTC Troubleshooting Index for the less obvious deployed parts (seat belt tensioners, front
impact sensors, side airbag sensors, etc.)
After a collision where the seat belt tensioners deployed, replace these items:
- SRS unit
After a collision where the front airbag(s) deployed, replace these items:
- SRS unit
- Deployed airbag(s)
After a collision where the side airbag(s) deployed, replace these items:
- SRS unit
After a collision where the side curtain airbag(s) deployed, replace these items:
- SRS unit
- Roof trim
- A-pillar trim
- B-pillar lower trim
- C-pillar trim
- Sunvisor
After a moderate to severe side or rear collision, inspect for any damage on the side curtain airbag
or other related components. According to the degree of damage, replace components as needed.
After a collision, where a side curtain airbag has deployed, replace all trim clips on that side, even if
they appear to be undamaged. Replace the clips on these parts:
- A-pillar trim
- B-pillar trim
- C-pillar trim
- Sunvisor
- Inspect all the SRS wire harnesses. Replace, do not repair, any damaged harnesses.
- Inspect the cable reel for heat damage. If there is any damage, replace the cable reel.
After the vehicle is completely repaired, turn the ignition switch ON (II). If the SRS indicator comes
on for about 6 seconds and then goes off, the SRS is OK. If the indicator does not function
properly, use the HDS SRS Menu Method to read the DTC. If you cannot retrieve a code, go to
SRS Symptom Troubleshooting.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Air Bag Systems > Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming > System
Information > Service and Repair
General Precautions
Please read the following precautions carefully before performing the airbag system service. If the
instructions described are not properly followed, the airbags could accidentally deploy and cause
damage or injuries.
- Except when performing electrical inspections, always turn the ignition switch OFF, disconnect
the negative cable from the battery, then wait for 3 minutes before starting work.
NOTE: The SRS memory is not cleared even if the ignition switch is turned OFF or the battery
cables are disconnected from the battery.
- Use replacement parts which are manufactured to the same standards and quality as the original
parts. Do not install used SRS parts. Use only new parts when making SRS repairs.
- Carefully inspect any SRS part before you install it. Do not install any part that shows signs of
being dropped or improperly handled, such as dents, cracks or deformation.
- Before disconnecting the SRS unit connectors, always disconnect the appropriate SRS parts
connectors.
- Use only a digital multimeter to check the system. If it is not a Honda multimeter, make sure its
output is 10 mA (0.01 A) or less when switched to the lowest value in the ohmmeter range. A tester
with a higher output could cause accidental deployment and possible injury.
- The original audio and navigation system has a coded theft protection circuit. Make sure you have
the anti-theft codes for the audio system or the navigation system (if equipped), then write down
the audio presets before disconnecting the negative cable from the battery.
- Before returning the vehicle to the customer, enter the anti-theft codes for the audio system or the
navigation system (if equipped), then enter the audio presets; set the clock.
Steering-related Precautions
- Misalignment of the cable reel could cause an open in the wiring, making the SRS system, remote
steering wheel controls, and the horn inoperative. Center the cable reel whenever you do the
following. -
- If the cable reel shows any signs of damage, replace it with a new one. For example, if it does not
rotate smoothly, replace the cable reel.
Do not disassemble an airbag. It has no serviceable parts. Once an airbag has been deployed, it
cannot be repaired or reused.
For temporary storage of an airbag during service, observe the following precautions.
- Store the removed airbag with the pad surface up. Never put anything on the airbag.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Air Bag Systems > Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming > System
Information > Service and Repair > Page 6907
- To prevent damage to the airbag, keep it away from any oil, grease, detergent, or water.
- Store the removed airbag on a secure, flat surface away from any high heat source (exceeding
200 °F/93 °C)
- Do not position yourself in front of the airbag during removal, inspection, or replacement.
- The side curtain airbag inflator assembly is a long, jointed part containing an inflator (A), a flexible
bag (B), and brackets (C). When removing or installing the side curtain airbag assembly, never do
the following items: -
- Turn the ignition switch OFF, disconnect the negative cable from the battery then wait for 3
minutes before starting installation or replacement of the SRS unit, or disconnecting the connectors
from the SRS unit.
- Be careful not to bump or impact the SRS unit, front impact sensors, side impact sensors, or rear
safing sensor whenever the ignition switch is ON (II), or for at least 3 minutes after the ignition
switch is turned OFF.
- During installation or replacement, be careful not to bump (by impact wrench, hammer, etc.) the
area around the SRS unit, front impact sensors, the side impact sensors, or rear safing sensor. The
airbags could accidentally deploy and cause damage or injury.
- After a collision where a front airbag, side airbag or a seat belt tensioner, seat belt buckle
tensioner deployed, go to Component Replacement/Inspection After Deployment. See: Service and
Repair After a collision where the airbags did not deploy, inspect for any damage or any
deformation on the SRS unit, front impact sensors, side impact sensors, or rear safing sensor. If
there is any damage, replace the SRS unit and/or the sensors.
- Do not disassemble the SRS unit, front impact sensors, side impact sensors, driver's seat position
sensor, front passenger's weight sensors, or rear safing sensor.
- Be sure the SRS unit, front impact sensors, side impact sensors, and rear safing sensor are
installed securely with the mounting bolts torqued to 9.8 N.m (1.0 kgf.m, 7.2 lbf.ft). Whenever you
remove or replace the SRS unit, safing sensor, or all impact sensors, always install the
components with new bolts.
- Do not spill water or oil on the SRS unit or the side impact sensors.
Wiring Precautions
Some of the SRS wiring can be identified by special yellow outer covering, and the SRS
connectors can be identified by their yellow color. Observe the instructions.
- Never attempt to modify, splice, or repair SRS wiring. If there is an open or damage in SRS
wiring, replace the harness.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Air Bag Systems > Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming > System
Information > Service and Repair > Page 6909
- Be sure to install the harness wires so they do not get pinched or interfere with other parts.
- Make sure all SRS ground locations are clean, and grounds are securely fastened for optimum
metal-to-metal contact. Poor grounds can cause intermittent problems that are difficult to diagnose.
- When using electrical test equipment, insert the probe of the tester into the wire side of the
connector. Do not insert the probe of the tester into the terminal side of the connector, and do not
tamper with the connector.
- Use specified service connectors in troubleshooting. Using improper tools could cause an error in
inspection due to poor metal-to-metal contact.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Air Bag Systems > Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming > System
Information > Service and Repair > Page 6910
Spring-loaded Lock Connector
Disconnecting
To release the lock, pull the spring-loaded sleeve (A) toward the stop (B) while holding the opposite
half of the connector. Then pull the connector halves apart. Be sure to pull on the sleeve and not
on the connector.
Connecting
To reconnect, hold the pawl-side connector, and press on the back of the sleeve-side connector in
the direction shown. As the two connector halves are pressed together, the sleeve (A) is pushed
back by the pawl (B). Do not touch the sleeve.
Disconnecting
To release the lock, pull the spring-loaded sleeve (A) toward the stop (B) while holding the opposite
half of the connector. Then pull the connector halves apart. Be sure to pull on the sleeve and not
on the connector half.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Air Bag Systems > Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming > System
Information > Service and Repair > Page 6911
Connecting
Hold both connector halves, and press them firmly together until the projection (A) of the
sleeve-side connector clicks.
NOTE:
- To prevent damaging of the connector cavity, insert the short canceller straight into the cavity
from the terminal side.
- Before installing the short canceller, wash it with electric contact cleaner, then dry it with
compressed air.
When SRS unit connectors A (28P) or B (28P) are disconnected, a short circuit is created in the
connector by its own function to prevent an airbag deployment. The circuit may need to be open
sometimes when diagnosis is done on the system. Insert the short canceller (070AZ-SAA0100) in
the specified cavities when it is necessary to keep the circuit open for diagnosis.
Terminal numbers are shown from the wire side of the female terminals. Insert the short
canceller(s) into the cavities on the terminal side of the connector.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Air Bag Systems > Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming > System
Information > Service and Repair > Page 6912
Seats with Side Airbags
Seats with side airbags have a "SIDE AIRBAG" label on the seat-back.
- When cleaning, use a damp cloth to clean the seat. Do not soak the seat with liquid, and do not
spray steam on the seat.
- Do not repair a torn or frayed seat-back cover. Replace the seat-back cover.
- After a collision where the side airbag was deployed, replace the side airbag and seat frame with
new parts. If the seat-back cushion is split, it must be replaced.
- Never put aftermarket accessories on the seat (covers, pads, seat heaters, lights, etc.).
Turn the ignition switch OFF disconnect the negative cable from the battery, then wait for 3 minutes
before starting the following procedures.
- Before disconnecting the cable reel 4P connector (1), disconnect the driver's airbag 4P connector
(2).
- Before disconnecting SRS unit connector B from SRS unit, disconnect both seat belt tensioner 4P
connectors and both seat belt buckle tensioner 4P connectors (3, 4, 5, 6).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Air Bag Systems > Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming > System
Information > Service and Repair > Page 6913
1. Turn the ignition switch OFF. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery, then wait for 3
minutes.
Driver's Airbag
2. Remove the access panel (A) from the steering wheel/then disconnect the driver's airbag 4P
connector (B) from the cable reel.
3. Remove the lower glove box, then disconnect the front passenger's airbag 4P connector (A)
from the dashboard wire harness.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Air Bag Systems > Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming > System
Information > Service and Repair > Page 6914
Side Airbag
4. Disconnect both side airbag 2P connectors (A) from the floor wire harness.
5. Remove the headliner. 6. Disconnect both floor wire harness 2P connectors (A) from the side
curtain airbags.
7. Remove the seat belt lower anchor. Disconnect both floor wire harness 4P connectors (A) from
the seat belt tensioners.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Air Bag Systems > Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming > System
Information > Service and Repair > Page 6915
Seat Belt Buckle Tensioner
8. Disconnect both floor wire harness 4P connectors (A) from the seat belt buckle tensioner.
SRS Unit
9. Disconnect both seat belt tensioner connectors and both seat belt buckle tensioner connectors.
Remove the center console. Disconnect SRS unit
connector A (28P) and SRS unit connector B (28P) from the SRS unit.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Air Bag Systems > Air Bag > Air Bag Harness > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Air Bag Harness: > 10-001 > Aug > 10 > Restraints - SRS Lamp
ON/DTC 32-10 Stored
Air Bag Harness: Customer Interest Restraints - SRS Lamp ON/DTC 32-10 Stored
10-001
(Supersedes 10-001, dated February 12, 2010, to revise the information marked by the black bars)
REVISION SUMMARY
Under PARTS INFORMATION, new P/Ns for the floor wire harness were added.
SYMPTOM
The SRS indicator is on, and DTC 32-10 (open in the front passengers side airbag inflator) is
stored. This problem may be intermittent.
PROBABLE CAUSE
Under the front passengers seat, the SRS portion of the floor wire harness has a poor crimp in it.
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Diagnose the SRS DTC(s) and, only if needed, replace the floor wire harness.
PARTS INFORMATION
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Air Bag Systems > Air Bag > Air Bag Harness > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Air Bag Harness: > 10-001 > Aug > 10 > Restraints - SRS Lamp
ON/DTC 32-10 Stored > Page 6925
NOTE:
To make sure you order the correct floor wire harness, enter the VIN in your parts catalog search.
REQUIRED MATERIALS
TOOL INFORMATION
DIAGNOSIS
1. Connect the HDS to the vehicle's DLC, and check for DTCs. If any DTCs other than 32-10 are
indicated, troubleshoot them as needed.
3. Disconnect the HDS, then turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0), and back to ON (II).
Yes - Go to step 4.
4. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). On the bottom of the front passenger's seat, disconnect the
floor wire harness 2P connector (yellow) from the
6. Disconnect the HDS, then turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0), and back to ON (II).
Yes - This service bulletin does not apply. Troubleshoot the SRS DTC(s) as needed.
No - Go to REPAIR PROCEDURE.
NOTE:
If the customer reported that the SRS indicator was previously on, use the HDS to check the DTC
history. If you find DTC 32-10 in the DTC history, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE. If you do not find
DTC 32-10 in the DTC history, this service bulletin does not apply. Continue with normal
troubleshooting.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Air Bag Systems > Air Bag > Air Bag Harness > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Air Bag Harness: > 10-001 > Aug > 10 > Restraints - SRS Lamp
ON/DTC 32-10 Stored > Page 6927
REPAIR PROCEDURE
NOTE:
^ Before you begin, make sure you know the SRS component locations, and that you read and
understand the SRS precautions and procedures explained in the service manual.
^ This procedure is in an outline form that you can also use as a checklist for the repair. If you need
more details on the topics listed below, bookmark them in the 2006-2010 Civic Service Manual, or
view them online:
- Carpet Replacement
9. Remove the floor wire harness, then install a new floor wire harness:
^ Refer to pages 22-50 thru 22-55 of the 2006-2010 Civic Service Manual, or
^ Online, enter keywords FLOOR WIRE, then select Floor Wire Harness and USB Harness
(Left/Right branch) Connector and Harness Locations (2-Door) from the list for the model you're
working on.
NOTE:
^ Do not bend or twist the new wire harness excessively, and make sure it is not pinched or too
loose in any areas.
^ Make sure all the connectors on the new wire harness are secured.
^ Make sure the seat harness connectors and the parking brake cables are routed correctly.
^ Push the Velcro fasteners and the clips securely into place.
^ Push the accelerator hooks securely into place, and make sure the accelerator pedal is correctly
attached to the floor.
^ Make sure there are no kinks or twists in the seat belts, then slip the seat belt buckles through the
slits in the seat cushion as you install the seat cushion.
^ Torque the seat cushion mounting bolt to 9.8 N.m (7.2 lb-ft).
^ Make sure there are no kinks or twists in the center seat belt, then guide the center seat belt over
the front of the seat-back as you install the seat-back.
^ Torque the pivot bracket bolt and the seat-back mounting bolts to 22 N.m (16 lb-ft).
13. Reinstall the rear side trim panels. Make sure the clips, the hooks, and the tabs are secured.
14. Reinstall the center console. Torque the center console mounting bolts to 5 N.m (4 lb-ft).
16. Reinstall the driver's and the passengers kick panels. Make sure the clips are secured.
17. Reinstall the driver's and the passenger 5 dashboard undercovers. Make sure the clips are
secured.
^ Apply Hondalock 2 Thread lock to the seat bolts, then reinstall the bolts, and torque them to 34
N.m (25 lb-ft).
^ Make sure the floor harness connectors are securely connected to the connectors under the
seats.
20. Test-drive the vehicle, and make sure that all vehicle systems and controls are working
properly.
21. Connect the HDS to the vehicle's DLC, and clear any DTCs that you find.
Disclaimer
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Air Bag Systems > Air Bag > Air Bag Harness > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Air Bag Harness: > 10-001 > Aug > 10 > Restraints - SRS
Lamp ON/DTC 32-10 Stored
Air Bag Harness: All Technical Service Bulletins Restraints - SRS Lamp ON/DTC 32-10 Stored
10-001
(Supersedes 10-001, dated February 12, 2010, to revise the information marked by the black bars)
REVISION SUMMARY
Under PARTS INFORMATION, new P/Ns for the floor wire harness were added.
SYMPTOM
The SRS indicator is on, and DTC 32-10 (open in the front passengers side airbag inflator) is
stored. This problem may be intermittent.
PROBABLE CAUSE
Under the front passengers seat, the SRS portion of the floor wire harness has a poor crimp in it.
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Diagnose the SRS DTC(s) and, only if needed, replace the floor wire harness.
PARTS INFORMATION
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Air Bag Systems > Air Bag > Air Bag Harness > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Air Bag Harness: > 10-001 > Aug > 10 > Restraints - SRS
Lamp ON/DTC 32-10 Stored > Page 6934
NOTE:
To make sure you order the correct floor wire harness, enter the VIN in your parts catalog search.
REQUIRED MATERIALS
TOOL INFORMATION
DIAGNOSIS
1. Connect the HDS to the vehicle's DLC, and check for DTCs. If any DTCs other than 32-10 are
indicated, troubleshoot them as needed.
3. Disconnect the HDS, then turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0), and back to ON (II).
Yes - Go to step 4.
4. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). On the bottom of the front passenger's seat, disconnect the
floor wire harness 2P connector (yellow) from the
6. Disconnect the HDS, then turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0), and back to ON (II).
Yes - This service bulletin does not apply. Troubleshoot the SRS DTC(s) as needed.
No - Go to REPAIR PROCEDURE.
NOTE:
If the customer reported that the SRS indicator was previously on, use the HDS to check the DTC
history. If you find DTC 32-10 in the DTC history, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE. If you do not find
DTC 32-10 in the DTC history, this service bulletin does not apply. Continue with normal
troubleshooting.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Air Bag Systems > Air Bag > Air Bag Harness > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Air Bag Harness: > 10-001 > Aug > 10 > Restraints - SRS
Lamp ON/DTC 32-10 Stored > Page 6936
REPAIR PROCEDURE
NOTE:
^ Before you begin, make sure you know the SRS component locations, and that you read and
understand the SRS precautions and procedures explained in the service manual.
^ This procedure is in an outline form that you can also use as a checklist for the repair. If you need
more details on the topics listed below, bookmark them in the 2006-2010 Civic Service Manual, or
view them online:
- Carpet Replacement
9. Remove the floor wire harness, then install a new floor wire harness:
^ Refer to pages 22-50 thru 22-55 of the 2006-2010 Civic Service Manual, or
^ Online, enter keywords FLOOR WIRE, then select Floor Wire Harness and USB Harness
(Left/Right branch) Connector and Harness Locations (2-Door) from the list for the model you're
working on.
NOTE:
^ Do not bend or twist the new wire harness excessively, and make sure it is not pinched or too
loose in any areas.
^ Make sure all the connectors on the new wire harness are secured.
^ Make sure the seat harness connectors and the parking brake cables are routed correctly.
^ Push the Velcro fasteners and the clips securely into place.
^ Push the accelerator hooks securely into place, and make sure the accelerator pedal is correctly
attached to the floor.
^ Make sure there are no kinks or twists in the seat belts, then slip the seat belt buckles through the
slits in the seat cushion as you install the seat cushion.
^ Torque the seat cushion mounting bolt to 9.8 N.m (7.2 lb-ft).
^ Make sure there are no kinks or twists in the center seat belt, then guide the center seat belt over
the front of the seat-back as you install the seat-back.
^ Torque the pivot bracket bolt and the seat-back mounting bolts to 22 N.m (16 lb-ft).
13. Reinstall the rear side trim panels. Make sure the clips, the hooks, and the tabs are secured.
14. Reinstall the center console. Torque the center console mounting bolts to 5 N.m (4 lb-ft).
16. Reinstall the driver's and the passengers kick panels. Make sure the clips are secured.
17. Reinstall the driver's and the passenger 5 dashboard undercovers. Make sure the clips are
secured.
^ Apply Hondalock 2 Thread lock to the seat bolts, then reinstall the bolts, and torque them to 34
N.m (25 lb-ft).
^ Make sure the floor harness connectors are securely connected to the connectors under the
seats.
20. Test-drive the vehicle, and make sure that all vehicle systems and controls are working
properly.
21. Connect the HDS to the vehicle's DLC, and clear any DTCs that you find.
Disclaimer
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Air Bag Systems > Air Bag Control Module > Component Information >
Locations
Air Bag Control Module: Locations
Removal
NOTE: If you are disconnecting only SRS unit connector A, skip step 2.
1. Disconnect the battery negative cable, then wait for 3 minutes before starting work. 2.
Disconnect both seat belt tensioner connectors and both seat belt buckle tensioner connectors. 3.
Remove the center console. 4. Disconnect SRS unit connector A (28P), connector B (28P) and
remove the TORX bolts (C), then pull out the SRS unit.
Installation
1. Install the SRS unit (A) with new TORX bolts (B), then connect the connectors (C) to the SRS
unit-push them into position until they click.
NOTE: Be sure the SRS unit is sitting squarely against it's bracket before torquing the TORX bolt.
2. Reconnect both seat belt tensioner connectors and seat belt buckle tensioner connector. 3.
Reconnect the negative cable to the battery. 4. Calibrate the ODS unit. 5. Do the ODS unit
operation check.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Air Bag Systems > Air Bag Control Module > Component Information >
Service and Repair > SRS Unit Replacement > Page 6950
6. After installing the SRS unit, confirm proper system operation: Turn the ignition switch ON (II);
the SRS indicator should come on for about 6
NOTE: Review the seat replacement procedure before doing repairs or service.
Removal
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery, then wait for 3 minutes before starting work. 2.
Disconnect the passenger's side airbag 2P connector. 3. Remove the passenger's seat assembly
and seat-back cover. 4. Disconnect the ODS unit 18P connector (A) and sensor connectors (B)
from the ODS unit (C).
Installation
1. Place the ODS unit (A) on the seat-back frame. Tighten the two nuts (B), and connect the ODS
unit harness 18P connector (C) and sensor
2. Install the seat-back cover in the reverse order of removal. 3. Install the seat assembly, then
connect the side airbag 2P connector. 4. Reconnect the negative cable to the battery. 5. Set the
seat-back in the normal position, and make sure there is nothing on the front passenger's seat. 6.
Initialize the ODS unit. 7. After installing the ODS unit, confirm proper system operation: Turn the
ignition switch ON (II); the SRS indicator should come on for about 6
- With navigation
- Without navigation
2. Remove the screws (A) and the passenger's airbag cutoff indicator (B) from center panel.
3. Check for continuity between the No. 2 and No. 3 terminals of the indicator. If there is no
continuity, replace the bulb. 4. Reinstall the parts in the reverse order of removal.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Air Bag Systems > Clockspring Assembly / Spiral Cable, Air Bag >
Component Information > Diagrams
Removal
1. Make sure the front wheels are aligned straight ahead. 2. Disconnect the negative cable from the
battery, then wait for 3 minutes before starting work. 3. Remove the driver's airbag. 4. Disconnect
the connector (A) from the cable reel, then remove the steering wheel bolt (B).
5. Confirm that the front wheels point straight ahead, then remove the steering wheel with a
steering wheel puller. Do not tap on the steering wheel or
6. Remove the driver's under cover. 7. Remove the column cover screws (A), then remove the
column covers (B, C).
8. Disconnect the dashboard wire harness 4P connector (A) from the cable reel 4P connector (B),
then disconnect the dashboard wire harness 20P
the lock tab. Release the lower lock tab (C), and slide the cable reel off the column.
Installation
1. Before installing the steering wheel, align the front wheels straight ahead. 2. If not already done,
disconnect the negative cable from the battery, then wait for 3 minutes before starting work. 3. Set
the turn signal canceling sleeve (A) so that the projections (B) are aligned vertically.
4. Carefully install the cable reel (A) on the steering column shaft. Then connect 20P connector (B)
to the cable reel, and connect the 4P connector
Then rotate it counterclockwise (about three turns) until the arrow mark (A) on the cable reel label
points straight up.
7. Position the two tabs (A) of the turn signal canceling sleeve (B) as shown, and install the
steering wheel on to the steering column shaft, making
sure the steering wheel hub (C) engages the pins (D) of the cable reel and tabs of the turn signal
canceling sleeve. Do not tap on the steering wheel or steering column shaft when installing the
steering wheel.
8. Install a new steering wheel bolt (A), then reconnect the connectors.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Air Bag Systems > Clockspring Assembly / Spiral Cable, Air Bag >
Component Information > Diagrams > Page 6961
10. Reconnect the negative cable to the battery. 11. After installing the cable reel, confirm proper
system operation:
- Turn the ignition switch ON (II); the SRS indicator should come on for about 6 seconds and then
go off.
- After the SRS indicator has turned off, turn the steering wheel fully left and right to confirm the
SRS indicator does not come on.
- Make sure the horn and turn signal switches work properly.
- Make sure the steering wheel audio controls (if equipped) work.
Impact Sensor: Service and Repair Side Impact Sensor (First) Replacement
Removal
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery, then wait for 3 minutes before starting work. 2.
Disconnect the appropriate side airbag 2P connector. 3. Remove the front seat assembly. 4.
Remove the front door sill inner trim. 5. Remove the lower B-pillar lower trim panel. 6. Disconnect
the floor wire harness 4P connector from the side impact sensor (first). 7. Using a TORX T30 bit,
remove the TORX bolt (A), then remove the side impact sensor (first) (B).
Installation
1. Install the side impact sensor (first) with a new TORX bolt (A), then connect the floor wire
harness 4P connector (B) to the side impact sensor
(first).
2. Reconnect the negative cable to the battery. 3. Reinstall all removed parts. 4. After installing the
side impact sensor (first) confirm proper system operation: Turn the ignition switch ON (II); the SRS
indicator should come on
Removal
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery, then wait for 3 minutes before starting work. 2.
Disconnect the appropriate side curtain airbag 2P connector. 3. For 2-door models: Remove the
door sill trim, and the rear side trim panel.
For 4-door models: Remove the rear seat cushion and seat side bolster.
4. Disconnect the floor wire harness 2P connector from the side impact sensor (second). 5.
Remove the TORX bolt (A) using a TORX T30 bit, then remove the side impact sensor (second)
(B).
Installation
1. Install the side impact sensor (second) with a new TORX bolt (A) then connect floor wire harness
2P connector (B) to the side impact sensor
(second).
2. Reconnect the negative cable to the battery. 3. After installing the side impact sensor (second),
confirm proper system operation: Turn the ignition switch ON (II); the SRS indicator should come
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery, then wait for 3 minutes before starting work. 2.
Disconnect the driver's airbag 4P connector, the front passenger's airbag 4P connector, both seat
belt tensioner 4P connectors, and both seat belt
3. Remove the front inner fender. 4. Disconnect the engine compartment wire harness 2P
connector (A). Using a TORX T30 bit, remove the TORX bolt (B), then remove the front
Installation
1. Install the front impact sensor with a new TORX bolt (A), then connect the engine compartment
wire harness 2P connector (B) to the front impact
sensor (C).
2. Reconnect the negative cable to the battery. 3. After installing the front impact sensor, confirm
proper system operation: Turn the ignition switch ON (II); the SRS indicator should come on for
Removal
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery, then wait for 3 minutes before starting work. 2.
Disconnect both side curtain airbag 2P connectors. 3. Remove the rear seat. 4. Disconnect the
floor wire harness 4P connector from the rear safing sensor. 5. Using a TORX T30 bit, remove the
TORX bolt (A), then remove the rear safing sensor (B).
Installation
1. Install the rear safing sensor (A) with a new TORX bolt (B) then connect the floor wire harness
4P connector (C) to the rear safing sensor.
2. Reconnect the negative cable to the battery. 3. Reinstall all removed parts. 4. After installing the
rear safing sensor, confirm proper system operation: Turn the ignition switch ON (II); the SRS
indicator should come on for
08-041
June 7, 2008
ODS Unit Initialization, ODS Unit Calibration, and Seat Weight Sensor Output Check With Manual
Mode
BACKGROUND
The 2006 2008 Civic Service Manual shows procedures for the occupant detection system (ODS)
unit initialization, the ODS unit calibration, and the front passenger's seat weight sensor output
check after a vehicle collision These procedures are normally done by following the on-screen
instructions on the HDS Due to some software variations between the SRS unit and the ODS unit
in some vehicles, when doing one of these procedures, the HDS may indicate to do the procedure
with manual mode However these manual mode procedures are not in the service manual In these
cases, follow the procedures in this bulletin to do the ODS unit initialization, the ODS unit
calibration or the front passenger's seat weight sensor output check with manual mode
NOTE
Even though these procedures are done manually, an HDS is still required.
^ Front Passengers Seat Weight Sensors Output Check After a Vehicle Collision With Manual
Mode
TOOL INFORMATION
NOTE:
Initialize the ODS unit after replacing the seat back cover, the seat back cushion, and/or the ODS
unit.
NOTE:
A new (uninitialized) ODS unit installed with a faulty OPDS sensor can cause DTC 85-71. If you
read this DTC, continue with this procedure.
2. Adjust the front passenger's seat to its most rearward position, and adjust the seat back to a
normal upright position Make sure to remove items that are on, under, or near the seat
7. On the next screen, select YES to short the SCS line. After the line is shorted, the odometer
flashes no.
8. Connect the SCS service connector to the 2P memory erase signal (MES) connector. Do not
use a jumper wire.
10. After turning the ignition switch to ON (II), the SRS indicator comes on for 6 seconds and then
goes off. Within 4 seconds after the indicator goes off, disconnect the SCS service connector from
the MES connector.
11. Within 4 seconds after the SRS indicator comes on again, reconnect the SCS service
connector to the MES connector.
12. Within 4 seconds after the SRS indicator goes off, disconnect the SCS service connector from
the MES connector.
^ If the SRS indicator blinks twice and then goes off, the ODS unit is initialized. Go to ODS UNIT
CALIBRATION WITH MANUAL MODE.
^ If the SRS indicator blinks twice and then stays on, the ODS unit is initialized, but there are SRS
DTCs that need to be cleared. Go to step 14.
^ If the SRS indicator stays on (does not blink), the ODS unit is not initialized. Repeat steps 3 thru
13. If after three attempts you cannot initialize the ODS unit, refer to symptom troubleshooting in
the service manual.
16. Connect the SCS service connector to the MES connector. Do not use a jumper wire.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Air Bag Systems > Seat Occupant Sensor > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > Restraints - Occupant Detection System Initialization > Page 6985
17. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II).
18. After turning the ignition switch to ON (II), the SRS indicator comes on for 6 seconds and then
goes off. Within 4 seconds after the indicator goes off, disconnect the SCS service connector from
the MES connector.
19. Within 4 seconds after the SRS indicator comes on again, reconnect the SCS service
connector to the MES connector.
20. Within 4 seconds after the SRS indicator goes off, disconnect the SCS service connector from
the MES connector. The SRS indicator blinks twice to indicate the SRS unit memory has been
cleared.
21. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0), and wait for 10 seconds.
22. Turn the ignition switch to ON (0). The SRS indicator should come on for 6 seconds and then
go off. If the indicator stays on, repeat steps 14 thru 22. If after doing those steps the indicator
continues to stay on, read and troubleshoot the SRS DTCs or refer to symptom troubleshooting.
23. Use the HDS to remove the short on the SCS line.
NOTE:
Always calibrate the ODS unit after replacing any of the front passenger's seat components (except
the ODS unit or the seat weight sensors), after a vehicle collision, or after replacing the SRS unit.
2. Adjust the front passengers seat to its most rearward position, and adjust the seat-back to the
forward-most position. Make sure to remove items that are on, under, or near the seat.
4. If not already connected, connect the HDS to the DLC, then turn on the HDS (but do not turn the
ignition switch to ON (II).
7. On the next screen, select YES to short the SCS line. After the line is shorted, the odometer
display flashes no.
10. After turning the ignition switch to ON (II), the SRS indicator comes on for 6 seconds and then
goes off. Within 4 seconds after the indicator goes off, unbuckle the driver's seat belt.
11. Within 4 seconds after the SRS indicator comes on again, buckle the driver's seat belt.
12. Within 4 seconds after the SRS indicator goes off, unbuckle the driver's seat belt.
^ If the SRS indicator blinks twice and then goes off, the ODS unit is calibrated. Turn the ignition
switch to LOCK (0), then go to FRONT PASSENGER'S SEAT WEIGHT SENSOR OUTPUT
CHECK AFTER A VEHICLE COLLISION WITH MANUAL MODE.
^ If the SRS indicator blinks twice and then stays on, the ODS unit is calibrated, but there are SRS
DTCs that need to be cleared. Go to step 14.
^ If the SRS indicator stays on (does not blink), the ODS unit is not calibrated. Repeat steps 8 thru
13. If after three attempts the ODS unit does not calibrate, refer to symptom troubleshooting in the
service manual.
16. Connect the SCS service connector to the 2P memory erase signal (MES) connector. Do not
use a jumper wire.
18. After turning the ignition switch to ON (II), the SRS indicator comes on for 6 seconds and then
goes off. Within 4 seconds after the indicator goes off, disconnect the SCS service connector from
the MES connector.
19. Within 4 seconds after the SRS indicator comes on again, reconnect the SCS service
connector to the MES connector.
20. Within 4 seconds after the SRS indicator goes off, disconnect the SCS service connector from
the MES connector. The SRS indicator blinks twice to indicate the SRS unit memory has been
cleared.
21. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0), and wait for 10 seconds.
22. Turn the ignition switch to ON (I I). The SRS indicator should come on for 6 seconds and then
go off. If the indicator stays on, repeat steps 14 thru 22. If after doing those steps the indicator
continues to stay on, read and troubleshoot the SRS DTCs or refer to symptom troubleshooting.
23. Use the HDS to remove the short on the SCS line.
NOTE:
^ Always check the front passenger's seat weight sensor output after replacing any of the front
passenger's seat components, except the ODS unit, and after a vehicle collision.
1. Adjust the front passenger's seat to its most rearward position, and adjust the seat-back to a
normal upright position. Make sure to remove items that are on, under, or near the seat.
2. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), and wait for the passenger airbag OFF indicator to go off.
^ 2-door: 64 pounds. (A case of Honda coolant and a 1 gallon jug of VTM-4 fluid is 64 pounds.)
4. For 2-door models: Firmly tap on the headrest twice to release any stiction that may be present
in the seat weight sensors.
5. Watch the passenger airbag OFF indicator. The indicator should come on and stay on. If the
indicator does not come on, check for SRS DTCs and troubleshoot them.
8. Watch the passenger airbag OFF indicator. The indicator should go off.
^ If the indicator goes off, the front passenger's weight sensors are OK.
^ If the indicator does not go off, check for SRS DTCs and troubleshoot them, then repeat steps 1
thru 8.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Air Bag Systems > Seat Occupant Sensor > Component Information >
Locations > Component Locations
Seat Occupant Sensor: Component Locations
4-door Removal
NOTE: Removal of the front passenger's weight sensors must be done according to Precautions
and Procedures.
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery, then wait for 3 minutes before starting work. 2.
Remove the front passenger's seat assembly section. 3. Remove the cushion cover/pad from the
seat cushion frame. 4. Using a TORX E18 socket, remove the TORX nuts (A) attaching the seat
track (B) to the front passenger's seat slide assembly including all four
5. Disconnect the sensor connectors (D) from the front passenger's weight sensors (E), then
remove the front passenger's weight sensors.
Installation
NOTE: Be sure to install the harness wires so they are not pinched or interfering with other parts.
1. Install the new front passenger's seat slide assembly including all four front passenger's weight
sensors under the seat track. 2. Apply multipurpose grease to the spring washer and bushing.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Air Bag Systems > Seat Occupant Sensor > Component Information >
Service and Repair > 4-Door > Page 6995
3. Insert a 3.5 mm center punch into the hole in the cushion frame to position the spring washers,
when tightening the TORX nuts (A). Begin with the
6. Reassemble the front passenger's seat cushion cover/pad. 7. Reinstall the front passenger's
seat. 8. Reconnect the negative cable to the battery. 9. Calibrate the ODS unit.
10. After installing the front passenger's weight sensors, confirm proper system operation: Turn the
ignition switch ON (II); the SRS indicator should
2-door
Removal
NOTE: Removal of the front passenger's weight sensors must be done according to Precautions
and Procedures.
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery, then wait for 3 minutes before starting work. 2.
Remove the front passenger's seat assembly. 3. Remove the cushion cover/pad from the seat
cushion frame. 4. Using a TORX T27 bit, remove the tamper-resistant TORX bolts (A) that attach
the seat track (B) to the weight sensors (C).
5. Disconnect the sensor connectors (D) from the ODS unit harness, then remove the front
passenger's weight sensors.
Installation
NOTE:
- Be sure to install the harness wires so they are not pinched or interfere with other parts.
- Make sure both of the hooks (A) on the seat track are properly secured to the front bracket (B). If
the hooks are not properly secured, the seat weight sensors will not function properly.
1. Install the new front passenger's weight sensors with tamper-resistant TORX bolts (C) under the
seat track.
2. Reassemble the front passenger's seat cushion cover/pad. 3. Reinstall the front passenger's
seat. 4. Reconnect the negative cable to the battery. 5. Calibrate the ODS unit.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Air Bag Systems > Seat Occupant Sensor > Component Information >
Service and Repair > 4-Door > Page 6998
6. After installing the front passenger's weight sensors, confirm proper system operation: Turn the
ignition switch ON (II); the SRS indicator should
Removal
NOTE:
- Removal of the driver's seat position sensor must be done according to Precautions and
Procedures.
- Do not turn the ignition switch ON (II), and do not connect the battery cable while removing the
driver's seat position sensor.
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery, then wait for 3 minutes before starting work. 2.
Disconnect the driver's airbag 4P connector. 3. Remove the driver's seat assembly. 4. Disconnect
the seat position sensor harness 2P connector (A) from the driver's seat position sensor.
5. Using a TORX T30 bit, remove the TORX bolt (B), then remove the driver's seat position sensor.
Installation
NOTE:
- Be sure to install the harness so it does not pinched or interfere with other parts.
- Do not turn the ignition switch ON (II), and do not connect the battery cable, while installing the
driver's seat position sensor.
- After installing the driver's seat position sensor, make sure it is clean. Keep it away from dust.
1. Install the driver's seat position sensor with a TORX bolt (A), then connect the seat position
sensor harness 2P connector to the driver's seat
2. Install the driver's seat assembly. 3. Reconnect the negative cable to the battery. 4. Check the
operation of the driver's seat position sensor with the HDS.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Relays and Modules - Restraint Systems > Air Bag Control Module >
Component Information > Locations
Air Bag Control Module: Locations
Removal
NOTE: If you are disconnecting only SRS unit connector A, skip step 2.
1. Disconnect the battery negative cable, then wait for 3 minutes before starting work. 2.
Disconnect both seat belt tensioner connectors and both seat belt buckle tensioner connectors. 3.
Remove the center console. 4. Disconnect SRS unit connector A (28P), connector B (28P) and
remove the TORX bolts (C), then pull out the SRS unit.
Installation
1. Install the SRS unit (A) with new TORX bolts (B), then connect the connectors (C) to the SRS
unit-push them into position until they click.
NOTE: Be sure the SRS unit is sitting squarely against it's bracket before torquing the TORX bolt.
2. Reconnect both seat belt tensioner connectors and seat belt buckle tensioner connector. 3.
Reconnect the negative cable to the battery. 4. Calibrate the ODS unit. 5. Do the ODS unit
operation check.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Relays and Modules - Restraint Systems > Air Bag Control Module >
Component Information > Service and Repair > SRS Unit Replacement > Page 7018
6. After installing the SRS unit, confirm proper system operation: Turn the ignition switch ON (II);
the SRS indicator should come on for about 6
NOTE: Review the seat replacement procedure before doing repairs or service.
Removal
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery, then wait for 3 minutes before starting work. 2.
Disconnect the passenger's side airbag 2P connector. 3. Remove the passenger's seat assembly
and seat-back cover. 4. Disconnect the ODS unit 18P connector (A) and sensor connectors (B)
from the ODS unit (C).
Installation
1. Place the ODS unit (A) on the seat-back frame. Tighten the two nuts (B), and connect the ODS
unit harness 18P connector (C) and sensor
2. Install the seat-back cover in the reverse order of removal. 3. Install the seat assembly, then
connect the side airbag 2P connector. 4. Reconnect the negative cable to the battery. 5. Set the
seat-back in the normal position, and make sure there is nothing on the front passenger's seat. 6.
Initialize the ODS unit. 7. After installing the ODS unit, confirm proper system operation: Turn the
ignition switch ON (II); the SRS indicator should come on for about 6
General Precautions
Please read the following precautions carefully before performing the airbag system service. If the
instructions described are not properly followed, the airbags could accidentally deploy and cause
damage or injuries.
- Except when performing electrical inspections, always turn the ignition switch OFF, disconnect
the negative cable from the battery, then wait for 3 minutes before starting work.
NOTE: The SRS memory is not cleared even if the ignition switch is turned OFF or the battery
cables are disconnected from the battery.
- Use replacement parts which are manufactured to the same standards and quality as the original
parts. Do not install used SRS parts. Use only new parts when making SRS repairs.
- Carefully inspect any SRS part before you install it. Do not install any part that shows signs of
being dropped or improperly handled, such as dents, cracks or deformation.
- Before disconnecting the SRS unit connectors, always disconnect the appropriate SRS parts
connectors.
- Use only a digital multimeter to check the system. If it is not a Honda multimeter, make sure its
output is 10 mA (0.01 A) or less when switched to the lowest value in the ohmmeter range. A tester
with a higher output could cause accidental deployment and possible injury.
- The original audio and navigation system has a coded theft protection circuit. Make sure you have
the anti-theft codes for the audio system or the navigation system (if equipped), then write down
the audio presets before disconnecting the negative cable from the battery.
- Before returning the vehicle to the customer, enter the anti-theft codes for the audio system or the
navigation system (if equipped), then enter the audio presets; set the clock.
Steering-related Precautions
- Misalignment of the cable reel could cause an open in the wiring, making the SRS system, remote
steering wheel controls, and the horn inoperative. Center the cable reel whenever you do the
following. -
- If the cable reel shows any signs of damage, replace it with a new one. For example, if it does not
rotate smoothly, replace the cable reel.
Do not disassemble an airbag. It has no serviceable parts. Once an airbag has been deployed, it
cannot be repaired or reused.
For temporary storage of an airbag during service, observe the following precautions.
- Store the removed airbag with the pad surface up. Never put anything on the airbag.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Seat Belt Systems > Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming > System
Information > Service and Repair > Page 7024
- To prevent damage to the airbag, keep it away from any oil, grease, detergent, or water.
- Store the removed airbag on a secure, flat surface away from any high heat source (exceeding
200 °F/93 °C)
- Do not position yourself in front of the airbag during removal, inspection, or replacement.
- The side curtain airbag inflator assembly is a long, jointed part containing an inflator (A), a flexible
bag (B), and brackets (C). When removing or installing the side curtain airbag assembly, never do
the following items: -
- Turn the ignition switch OFF, disconnect the negative cable from the battery then wait for 3
minutes before starting installation or replacement of the SRS unit, or disconnecting the connectors
from the SRS unit.
- Be careful not to bump or impact the SRS unit, front impact sensors, side impact sensors, or rear
safing sensor whenever the ignition switch is ON (II), or for at least 3 minutes after the ignition
switch is turned OFF.
- During installation or replacement, be careful not to bump (by impact wrench, hammer, etc.) the
area around the SRS unit, front impact sensors, the side impact sensors, or rear safing sensor. The
airbags could accidentally deploy and cause damage or injury.
- After a collision where a front airbag, side airbag or a seat belt tensioner, seat belt buckle
tensioner deployed, go to Component Replacement/Inspection After Deployment. See: Air Bag
Systems/Service and Repair After a collision where the airbags did not deploy, inspect for any
damage or any deformation on the SRS unit, front impact sensors, side impact sensors, or rear
safing sensor. If there is any damage, replace the SRS unit and/or the sensors.
- Do not disassemble the SRS unit, front impact sensors, side impact sensors, driver's seat position
sensor, front passenger's weight sensors, or rear safing sensor.
- Be sure the SRS unit, front impact sensors, side impact sensors, and rear safing sensor are
installed securely with the mounting bolts torqued to 9.8 N.m (1.0 kgf.m, 7.2 lbf.ft). Whenever you
remove or replace the SRS unit, safing sensor, or all impact sensors, always install the
components with new bolts.
- Do not spill water or oil on the SRS unit or the side impact sensors.
Wiring Precautions
Some of the SRS wiring can be identified by special yellow outer covering, and the SRS
connectors can be identified by their yellow color. Observe the instructions.
- Never attempt to modify, splice, or repair SRS wiring. If there is an open or damage in SRS
wiring, replace the harness.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Seat Belt Systems > Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming > System
Information > Service and Repair > Page 7026
- Be sure to install the harness wires so they do not get pinched or interfere with other parts.
- Make sure all SRS ground locations are clean, and grounds are securely fastened for optimum
metal-to-metal contact. Poor grounds can cause intermittent problems that are difficult to diagnose.
- When using electrical test equipment, insert the probe of the tester into the wire side of the
connector. Do not insert the probe of the tester into the terminal side of the connector, and do not
tamper with the connector.
- Use specified service connectors in troubleshooting. Using improper tools could cause an error in
inspection due to poor metal-to-metal contact.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Seat Belt Systems > Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming > System
Information > Service and Repair > Page 7027
Spring-loaded Lock Connector
Disconnecting
To release the lock, pull the spring-loaded sleeve (A) toward the stop (B) while holding the opposite
half of the connector. Then pull the connector halves apart. Be sure to pull on the sleeve and not
on the connector.
Connecting
To reconnect, hold the pawl-side connector, and press on the back of the sleeve-side connector in
the direction shown. As the two connector halves are pressed together, the sleeve (A) is pushed
back by the pawl (B). Do not touch the sleeve.
Disconnecting
To release the lock, pull the spring-loaded sleeve (A) toward the stop (B) while holding the opposite
half of the connector. Then pull the connector halves apart. Be sure to pull on the sleeve and not
on the connector half.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Seat Belt Systems > Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming > System
Information > Service and Repair > Page 7028
Connecting
Hold both connector halves, and press them firmly together until the projection (A) of the
sleeve-side connector clicks.
NOTE:
- To prevent damaging of the connector cavity, insert the short canceller straight into the cavity
from the terminal side.
- Before installing the short canceller, wash it with electric contact cleaner, then dry it with
compressed air.
When SRS unit connectors A (28P) or B (28P) are disconnected, a short circuit is created in the
connector by its own function to prevent an airbag deployment. The circuit may need to be open
sometimes when diagnosis is done on the system. Insert the short canceller (070AZ-SAA0100) in
the specified cavities when it is necessary to keep the circuit open for diagnosis.
Terminal numbers are shown from the wire side of the female terminals. Insert the short
canceller(s) into the cavities on the terminal side of the connector.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Seat Belt Systems > Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming > System
Information > Service and Repair > Page 7029
Seats with Side Airbags
Seats with side airbags have a "SIDE AIRBAG" label on the seat-back.
- When cleaning, use a damp cloth to clean the seat. Do not soak the seat with liquid, and do not
spray steam on the seat.
- Do not repair a torn or frayed seat-back cover. Replace the seat-back cover.
- After a collision where the side airbag was deployed, replace the side airbag and seat frame with
new parts. If the seat-back cushion is split, it must be replaced.
- Never put aftermarket accessories on the seat (covers, pads, seat heaters, lights, etc.).
Turn the ignition switch OFF disconnect the negative cable from the battery, then wait for 3 minutes
before starting the following procedures.
- Before disconnecting the cable reel 4P connector (1), disconnect the driver's airbag 4P connector
(2).
- Before disconnecting SRS unit connector B from SRS unit, disconnect both seat belt tensioner 4P
connectors and both seat belt buckle tensioner 4P connectors (3, 4, 5, 6).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Seat Belt Systems > Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming > System
Information > Service and Repair > Page 7030
1. Turn the ignition switch OFF. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery, then wait for 3
minutes.
Driver's Airbag
2. Remove the access panel (A) from the steering wheel/then disconnect the driver's airbag 4P
connector (B) from the cable reel.
3. Remove the lower glove box, then disconnect the front passenger's airbag 4P connector (A)
from the dashboard wire harness.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Seat Belt Systems > Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming > System
Information > Service and Repair > Page 7031
Side Airbag
4. Disconnect both side airbag 2P connectors (A) from the floor wire harness.
5. Remove the headliner. 6. Disconnect both floor wire harness 2P connectors (A) from the side
curtain airbags.
7. Remove the seat belt lower anchor. Disconnect both floor wire harness 4P connectors (A) from
the seat belt tensioners.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Seat Belt Systems > Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming > System
Information > Service and Repair > Page 7032
Seat Belt Buckle Tensioner
8. Disconnect both floor wire harness 4P connectors (A) from the seat belt buckle tensioner.
SRS Unit
9. Disconnect both seat belt tensioner connectors and both seat belt buckle tensioner connectors.
Remove the center console. Disconnect SRS unit
connector A (28P) and SRS unit connector B (28P) from the SRS unit.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Seat Belt Systems > Seat Belt > Component Information > Testing and
Inspection
Seat Belt: Testing and Inspection
Inspection
Out of Vehicle
For front seat belt retractor with seat belt tensioner, review the SRS component locations and the
precautions and procedures before doing repairs or service.
Retractor
1. Before installing the retractor, check that the seat belt can be pulled out freely. 2. Make sure that
the seat belt does not lock when the retractor (A) is leaned slowly up to 15 ° from the mounted
position. The seat belt should lock
when the retractor is leaned over 40 °. Do not attempt to disassemble the retractor.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Seat Belt Systems > Seat Belt > Component Information > Testing and
Inspection > Page 7036
3. Replace the seat belt with a new assembly if there is any abnormality. Do not disassemble any
part of the seat belt for any reason.
In-vehicle
1. Check that the seat belt is not twisted or caught on anything. 2. After installing the anchors,
check for free movement on the anchor bolts. If necessary, remove the anchor bolts and check that
the washers and
3. Check the seat belts for damage or discoloration. Clean with a shop towel if necessary. Use only
soap and water to clean.
NOTE: Dirt build-up in the loops of the upper anchors can cause the seat belts to retract slowly.
Wipe the inside of the loops with a clean cloth dampened in isopropyl alcohol.
4. Check that the seat belt does not lock when pulled out slowly. The seat belt is designed to lock
only during a sudden stop or impact. 5. Make sure that the seat belt will retract automatically when
released. 6. For front passenger's seat belt and all rear seat belts, check the seat belt retractor
locking mechanism ALR (automatic locking retractor). This
1. Pull the seat belt all the way out to engage the ALR. The seat belt should retract with a
ratcheting sound, but not extend. This is normal. 2. To disengage the ALR, release the seat belt
and allow it to fully retract, then pull the seat belt out part-way. The seat belt should retract and
extend normally.
7. Replace the seat belt with a new assembly if there is any abnormality. Do not disassemble any
part of the seat belt for any reason.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Seat Belt Systems > Seat Belt > Component Information > Service and
Repair > Front Seat Belt Replacement
SRS components are located in this area. Review the SRS component locations and the
precautions and procedures in the SRS before doing repairs or service.
NOTE: Check the front seat belts for damage, and replace them if necessary. Be careful not to
damage them during removal and installation.
Front Seat Belt - 2-door
1. Make sure you have the anti-theft codes for the audio system or the navigation system (if
equipped), then write down the audio presets. 2. Slide the front seat forward fully. 3. Disconnect the
negative cable from the battery, then wait for 3 minutes before starting work. 4. Remove the seat
belt lower anchor.
- Driver's seat belt: Remove the lower anchor cap (A), and remove the lower anchor bolt (B).
- Passenger's seat belt: Carefully insert the tip of a small screwdriver (C) through the hole in the
back of the front seat belt lower anchor cover (D) and into the hole in the front seat belt lower
anchor (E). Unlock the lower anchor by pushing in on the screwdriver. Remove the screwdriver,
and then detach the front seat belt anchor plate (F) and anchor cover from the lower anchor.
6. Remove the bolts (A) and the seat belt guide (B).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Seat Belt Systems > Seat Belt > Component Information > Service and
Repair > Front Seat Belt Replacement > Page 7039
7. Remove the upper anchor cap (A), and remove the upper anchor bolt (B).
8. Disconnect the seat belt tensioner connector (A). Remove the upper retractor mounting bolt (B)
and the lower retractor bolt (C), then remove the
10. Install the belt in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
- Assemble the washers, collars, and bushings on the upper and lower anchor bolts as shown.
- If the seat belt tensioner has been deployed, replace the front seat belt protector with a new one.
- Apply medium strength type liquid thread lock to the anchor bolts before reinstallation.
- Before installing the anchor bolts, make sure there are no twists or kinks in the front seat belt.
- Passenger's seat belt: Before attaching the front seat belt lower anchor, make sure there are no
twists or kinks in the belts.
- Passenger's seat belt: Triangle marks (A) on the anchor plate (B) and on the lower anchor (C)
must face the same side.
- Passenger's seat belt: Insert the hook on the anchor plate into the lower anchor, and be sure that
the lower anchor is locked securely.
- Enter the anti-theft code for the audio system or the navigation system (if equipped), then enter
the audio presets.
- Check for any DTCs that may have been set during repairs, and clear them.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Seat Belt Systems > Seat Belt > Component Information > Service and
Repair > Front Seat Belt Replacement > Page 7040
Front Seat Belt - 4-door
SRS components are located in this area. Review the SRS component locations and the
precautions and procedures before doing repairs or service.
NOTE: Check the front seat belts for damage, and replace them if necessary.
1. Make sure you have the anti-theft codes for the audio system or the navigation system (if
equipped), then write down the audio presets. 2. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery,
then wait for 3 minutes before starting work. 3. Slide the front seat forward fully, and remove the
anchor cover (A).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
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Repair > Front Seat Belt Replacement > Page 7041
4. Remove the lower anchor bolt (A).
5. Remove the B-pillar lower trim. 6. Remove the B-pillar upper trim and slider. 7. Remove the
upper anchor bolt (A).
8. Disconnect the seat belt tensioner connector (A). Remove the upper retractor mounting bolt (B)
and the lower retractor bolt (C), then remove the
11. Install the seat belt in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
- Apply medium strength type liquid thread lock to the anchor bolts before reinstallation.
- Tighten the bolts by hand first, then tighten to the specified torque.
- Assemble the washer, collar, and bushing on the upper anchor bolt as shown.
- If the seat belt tensioner has been deployed, replace the front seat belt protector with a new one.
- Before installing the anchor bolts, make sure there are no twists or kinks in the seat belt.
- Enter the anti-theft code for the audio system or the navigation system (if equipped), then enter
the audio presets.
- Check for any DTCs that may have been set during repairs, and clear them.
1. Make sure you have the anti-theft code for the audio system or the navigation system (if
equipped), then write down the audio presets. 2. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery,
then wait for 3 minutes before starting work.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Seat Belt Systems > Seat Belt > Component Information > Service and
Repair > Front Seat Belt Replacement > Page 7043
3. Remove the front seat. 4. Lift up the front seat, then detach the seat belt switch connector (A)
and seat belt buckle tensioner connector (B), and on the driver's seat, detach
5. Remove the center anchor bolt (A), then remove the seat belt buckle (B) from the elastic band
(C).
6. 2-door passenger's seat: Release the hook strips (D) and pull back the seat cushion cover. 7.
Pull the seat belt switch harness (E) out through the space between the seat cushion and the seat
track (driver's seat), or through the hole in the seat
8. Install the buckle in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
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Repair > Front Seat Belt Replacement > Page 7044
- Assemble the washers on the center anchor bolt as shown.
- Apply medium strength type liquid thread lock to the center anchor bolt before reinstallation.
- Tighten the bolts by hand first, then tighten to specification with a torque wrench.
- Make sure the seat belt switch connector and seat belt buckle tensioner connector are plugged in
properly.
- Enter the anti-theft code for the audio system or the navigation system (if equipped), then enter
the audio presets.
- Check for any DTCs that may have been set during repairs, and clear them.
1. Remove the door sill trim. 2. Remove the lower anchor bolt (A), then remove the lower anchor
(B).
3. Install the lower anchor in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
- Apply medium strength type liquid thread lock to the lower anchor bolt before reinstallation.
- Assemble the washers, collars, and bushing on the lower anchor bolt as shown.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Seat Belt Systems > Seat Belt > Component Information > Service and
Repair > Front Seat Belt Replacement > Page 7045
Seat Belt: Service and Repair Rear Seat Belt Replacement
NOTE: Check the second row seat belts for damage, and replace them if necessary. Be careful not
to damage them during removal and installation.
1. Remove the rear seat cushion. 2. Remove the lower anchor bolt (A).
- 2-door: -
- Rear shelf
- 4-door: -
- Rear shelf
4. Remove the retractor bolt (A), then remove the rear seat belt (B) and retractor (C).
5. Install the rear seat belt and retractor in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
- Apply medium strength type liquid thread lock to the anchor bolts before reinstallation.
- Before installing the anchor bolt, make sure there are no twists or kinks in the rear seat belt.
1. Remove the rear seat cushion. 2. Remove the center anchor bolts (A), then remove the right
seat belt buckle (B), center seat belt buckle (C), and left seat belt buckle (D).
- 4-door: -
- Rear shelf
5. Remove the retractor mounting ET screw (A) (4-door) and the retractor bolt (B), then remove the
rear seat belt (C) and retractor (D).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Seat Belt Systems > Seat Belt > Component Information > Service and
Repair > Front Seat Belt Replacement > Page 7047
6. Remove the rear center seat belt protector (E). 7. Install the seat belt and buckles in the reverse
order of removal, and note these items:
- Apply medium strength type liquid thread lock to the center anchor bolts before reinstallation.
- Tighten the bolts by hand first, then tighten to the specified torque.
- Before installing the center anchor bolt, make sure there are no twists or kinks in the center belt.
- Make sure the rear center ELR (emergency locking retractor) is pointing straight forward.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Seat Belt Systems > Seat Belt > Component Information > Service and
Repair > Front Seat Belt Replacement > Page 7048
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Seat Belt Systems > Seat Belt Buckle Switch > Component Information >
Locations
Seat Belt Buckle Switch: Locations
Circuit Schematics
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Seat Belt Systems > Seat Belt Tensioner > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7057
Circuit Schematics
Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show
current flow, from power at the top of the diagram, to ground at the bottom.
Shared Circuits
Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that
connects one circuit to another, for example, is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it
pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or
component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring, check the operation of a
component it serves. If that component works, you know the shared wiring is OK.
Connectors
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Seat Belt Systems > Seat Belt Tensioner > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7058
All in-line and junction connectors are numbered (C725, C416, etc.). Component connectors are
not numbered but are identified either by the name of the component if the component only has
one connector, or by a capital letter (A, B, C, etc.) if the component has more than one connector.
Below most connector numbers and component names are PHOTO and VIEW numbers. The
PHOTO number refers to a photo at Vehicle Level Locations that shows the connector's location on
the car. The VIEW number refers to an connector view at the Vehicle Level Connector Views that
shows the connector terminals, wire colors, connector cavity numbers, and other details.
The connector cavity numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector as seen
from either of the viewpoints. Except for the DLC (data link connector), disregard any numbers
molded into the connector housing.
Wires
Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the
stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number "2" next to the male
and female wire terminals at C554, for example, means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector
C554.
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the vehicle. Refer to the Power Distribution Diagram Set to get a more detailed
understanding of how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on. Individual circuit
schematics begin with a fuse. So if Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another
circuit share a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good
and power is available to the inoperative circuit.
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share the same
ground point.
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7060
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7061
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7062
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7063
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Seat Belt Systems > Seat Belt Tensioner > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7064
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Seat Belt Systems > Seat Belt Tensioner > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7065
How to Identify Connector Terminals
Connector terminals are numbered according to the cavities they are in. The cavities are numbered
starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side or looking at the
female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the
same. All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not
the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the
connector face.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Seat Belt Systems > Seat Belt Tensioner > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7066
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown above is #6.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Seat Belt Systems > Seat Belt Tensioner > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7067
The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice
connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for
all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement
terminal availability.
On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged,
replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If
any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it.
Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the
wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the
terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to
make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a
factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS.
Use the tools from Pin Tool Set. First, check the connector that you are about to repair.
- If it has a secondary terminal lock, go to Connectors With a Secondary Lock. A secondary lock,
found on most connectors on some models, is an additional locking device on the connector
housing as a backup for the primary lock on the terminal.
- If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock.
All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the
secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the
connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities.
EXAMPLE A:
EXAMPLE B:
EXAMPLE C:
EXAMPLE D:
2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW
TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE E:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Seat Belt Systems > Seat Belt Tensioner > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7071
1. Remove the secondary locks.
2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW
TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE F:
3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of
connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary
in size and shape.
EXAMPLE A:
EXAMPLE B:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Seat Belt Systems > Seat Belt Tensioner > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7073
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE C:
EXAMPLE D:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Seat Belt Systems > Seat Belt Tensioner > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7074
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE E:
EXAMPLE F:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Seat Belt Systems > Seat Belt Tensioner > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7075
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE G:
1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct
replacement terminal based on the wire size range
NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part
number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available
through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures.
2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7076
3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the
wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from
the kit.)
NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did,
cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again.
4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the
anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown
in step 3.
6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact.
- If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool
over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the
stops make contact.
- If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully
squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7077
8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the following NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and
start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the
way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure
10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector.
Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too
short or when access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair.
On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged,
replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If
any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it.
1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from
Pin Tool Set.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7078
2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal,
then strip about half of the insulation off that piece.
This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal.
NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will
not nick or cut off any strands of wires.
3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and
same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit
onto the stripped end of the original wire.
5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the
pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more
than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at
the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the
harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make
each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail.
7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends
of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue
NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the
stripper.
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7079
8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the
flare begins), and close the crimper handles far
enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click,
squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open.
9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the
wire all the way into the splice connector, and
squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until
the ratchet clicks again.
10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After
crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the
connector.
12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire(s), and shield them with
nonflammable material.
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7080
13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the
gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat
evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete
when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube.
NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun.
Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the
wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size)
splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select
the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in
quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures.
Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the
Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching
connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body.
1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector.
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2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool.
NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal
because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit.
3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal
with a replacement terminal from the appropriate
Five-Step Troubleshooting
Five-Step Troubleshooting
Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint.
Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
problem area.
Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by
tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground (certain
circuits contain a "How the Circuit Works" Diagram set). Also, trace circuits that share wiring with
the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on,
are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step
1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used
only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely
cause.
Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more
possible causes.
Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple
procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to
make tests at points that are easily accessible.
Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe
procedures.
Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire
problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure
no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur.
Test Equipment
Test Equipment
CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
1O-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up
of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to
various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is
voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital
volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is
between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM).
In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low
resistance means good continuity.
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7082
Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a
reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is
affecting the measurement.
To order any test equipment shown, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool
numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin.
Jumper Wire
Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder
connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire
across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse.
To order any test equipment shown, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool
numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin.
Troubleshooting Precautions
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION: -
Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
- Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles.
2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part
Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place.
CAUTION: -
Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7083
- Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-mega
ohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that
contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
Troubleshooting Tests
Troubleshooting Tests
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt
ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest
"OHMS" range.
2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you
want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end.
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4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or
no reading (zero), means good continuity.
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem. Circuits must be operating when checking
voltage drop.
1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts
range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage
is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM
voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Seat Belt Systems > Seat Belt Tensioner > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7085
Seat Belt Tensioner: Connector Views
Impact Sensor: Service and Repair Side Impact Sensor (First) Replacement
Removal
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery, then wait for 3 minutes before starting work. 2.
Disconnect the appropriate side airbag 2P connector. 3. Remove the front seat assembly. 4.
Remove the front door sill inner trim. 5. Remove the lower B-pillar lower trim panel. 6. Disconnect
the floor wire harness 4P connector from the side impact sensor (first). 7. Using a TORX T30 bit,
remove the TORX bolt (A), then remove the side impact sensor (first) (B).
Installation
1. Install the side impact sensor (first) with a new TORX bolt (A), then connect the floor wire
harness 4P connector (B) to the side impact sensor
(first).
2. Reconnect the negative cable to the battery. 3. Reinstall all removed parts. 4. After installing the
side impact sensor (first) confirm proper system operation: Turn the ignition switch ON (II); the SRS
indicator should come on
Removal
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery, then wait for 3 minutes before starting work. 2.
Disconnect the appropriate side curtain airbag 2P connector. 3. For 2-door models: Remove the
door sill trim, and the rear side trim panel.
For 4-door models: Remove the rear seat cushion and seat side bolster.
4. Disconnect the floor wire harness 2P connector from the side impact sensor (second). 5.
Remove the TORX bolt (A) using a TORX T30 bit, then remove the side impact sensor (second)
(B).
Installation
1. Install the side impact sensor (second) with a new TORX bolt (A) then connect floor wire harness
2P connector (B) to the side impact sensor
(second).
2. Reconnect the negative cable to the battery. 3. After installing the side impact sensor (second),
confirm proper system operation: Turn the ignition switch ON (II); the SRS indicator should come
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery, then wait for 3 minutes before starting work. 2.
Disconnect the driver's airbag 4P connector, the front passenger's airbag 4P connector, both seat
belt tensioner 4P connectors, and both seat belt
3. Remove the front inner fender. 4. Disconnect the engine compartment wire harness 2P
connector (A). Using a TORX T30 bit, remove the TORX bolt (B), then remove the front
Installation
1. Install the front impact sensor with a new TORX bolt (A), then connect the engine compartment
wire harness 2P connector (B) to the front impact
sensor (C).
2. Reconnect the negative cable to the battery. 3. After installing the front impact sensor, confirm
proper system operation: Turn the ignition switch ON (II); the SRS indicator should come on for
Removal
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery, then wait for 3 minutes before starting work. 2.
Disconnect both side curtain airbag 2P connectors. 3. Remove the rear seat. 4. Disconnect the
floor wire harness 4P connector from the rear safing sensor. 5. Using a TORX T30 bit, remove the
TORX bolt (A), then remove the rear safing sensor (B).
Installation
1. Install the rear safing sensor (A) with a new TORX bolt (B) then connect the floor wire harness
4P connector (C) to the rear safing sensor.
2. Reconnect the negative cable to the battery. 3. Reinstall all removed parts. 4. After installing the
rear safing sensor, confirm proper system operation: Turn the ignition switch ON (II); the SRS
indicator should come on for
08-041
June 7, 2008
ODS Unit Initialization, ODS Unit Calibration, and Seat Weight Sensor Output Check With Manual
Mode
BACKGROUND
The 2006 2008 Civic Service Manual shows procedures for the occupant detection system (ODS)
unit initialization, the ODS unit calibration, and the front passenger's seat weight sensor output
check after a vehicle collision These procedures are normally done by following the on-screen
instructions on the HDS Due to some software variations between the SRS unit and the ODS unit
in some vehicles, when doing one of these procedures, the HDS may indicate to do the procedure
with manual mode However these manual mode procedures are not in the service manual In these
cases, follow the procedures in this bulletin to do the ODS unit initialization, the ODS unit
calibration or the front passenger's seat weight sensor output check with manual mode
NOTE
Even though these procedures are done manually, an HDS is still required.
^ Front Passengers Seat Weight Sensors Output Check After a Vehicle Collision With Manual
Mode
TOOL INFORMATION
NOTE:
Initialize the ODS unit after replacing the seat back cover, the seat back cushion, and/or the ODS
unit.
NOTE:
A new (uninitialized) ODS unit installed with a faulty OPDS sensor can cause DTC 85-71. If you
read this DTC, continue with this procedure.
2. Adjust the front passenger's seat to its most rearward position, and adjust the seat back to a
normal upright position Make sure to remove items that are on, under, or near the seat
7. On the next screen, select YES to short the SCS line. After the line is shorted, the odometer
flashes no.
8. Connect the SCS service connector to the 2P memory erase signal (MES) connector. Do not
use a jumper wire.
10. After turning the ignition switch to ON (II), the SRS indicator comes on for 6 seconds and then
goes off. Within 4 seconds after the indicator goes off, disconnect the SCS service connector from
the MES connector.
11. Within 4 seconds after the SRS indicator comes on again, reconnect the SCS service
connector to the MES connector.
12. Within 4 seconds after the SRS indicator goes off, disconnect the SCS service connector from
the MES connector.
^ If the SRS indicator blinks twice and then goes off, the ODS unit is initialized. Go to ODS UNIT
CALIBRATION WITH MANUAL MODE.
^ If the SRS indicator blinks twice and then stays on, the ODS unit is initialized, but there are SRS
DTCs that need to be cleared. Go to step 14.
^ If the SRS indicator stays on (does not blink), the ODS unit is not initialized. Repeat steps 3 thru
13. If after three attempts you cannot initialize the ODS unit, refer to symptom troubleshooting in
the service manual.
16. Connect the SCS service connector to the MES connector. Do not use a jumper wire.
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Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Restraints - Occupant Detection System Initialization > Page 7115
17. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II).
18. After turning the ignition switch to ON (II), the SRS indicator comes on for 6 seconds and then
goes off. Within 4 seconds after the indicator goes off, disconnect the SCS service connector from
the MES connector.
19. Within 4 seconds after the SRS indicator comes on again, reconnect the SCS service
connector to the MES connector.
20. Within 4 seconds after the SRS indicator goes off, disconnect the SCS service connector from
the MES connector. The SRS indicator blinks twice to indicate the SRS unit memory has been
cleared.
21. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0), and wait for 10 seconds.
22. Turn the ignition switch to ON (0). The SRS indicator should come on for 6 seconds and then
go off. If the indicator stays on, repeat steps 14 thru 22. If after doing those steps the indicator
continues to stay on, read and troubleshoot the SRS DTCs or refer to symptom troubleshooting.
23. Use the HDS to remove the short on the SCS line.
NOTE:
Always calibrate the ODS unit after replacing any of the front passenger's seat components (except
the ODS unit or the seat weight sensors), after a vehicle collision, or after replacing the SRS unit.
2. Adjust the front passengers seat to its most rearward position, and adjust the seat-back to the
forward-most position. Make sure to remove items that are on, under, or near the seat.
4. If not already connected, connect the HDS to the DLC, then turn on the HDS (but do not turn the
ignition switch to ON (II).
7. On the next screen, select YES to short the SCS line. After the line is shorted, the odometer
display flashes no.
10. After turning the ignition switch to ON (II), the SRS indicator comes on for 6 seconds and then
goes off. Within 4 seconds after the indicator goes off, unbuckle the driver's seat belt.
11. Within 4 seconds after the SRS indicator comes on again, buckle the driver's seat belt.
12. Within 4 seconds after the SRS indicator goes off, unbuckle the driver's seat belt.
^ If the SRS indicator blinks twice and then goes off, the ODS unit is calibrated. Turn the ignition
switch to LOCK (0), then go to FRONT PASSENGER'S SEAT WEIGHT SENSOR OUTPUT
CHECK AFTER A VEHICLE COLLISION WITH MANUAL MODE.
^ If the SRS indicator blinks twice and then stays on, the ODS unit is calibrated, but there are SRS
DTCs that need to be cleared. Go to step 14.
^ If the SRS indicator stays on (does not blink), the ODS unit is not calibrated. Repeat steps 8 thru
13. If after three attempts the ODS unit does not calibrate, refer to symptom troubleshooting in the
service manual.
16. Connect the SCS service connector to the 2P memory erase signal (MES) connector. Do not
use a jumper wire.
18. After turning the ignition switch to ON (II), the SRS indicator comes on for 6 seconds and then
goes off. Within 4 seconds after the indicator goes off, disconnect the SCS service connector from
the MES connector.
19. Within 4 seconds after the SRS indicator comes on again, reconnect the SCS service
connector to the MES connector.
20. Within 4 seconds after the SRS indicator goes off, disconnect the SCS service connector from
the MES connector. The SRS indicator blinks twice to indicate the SRS unit memory has been
cleared.
21. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0), and wait for 10 seconds.
22. Turn the ignition switch to ON (I I). The SRS indicator should come on for 6 seconds and then
go off. If the indicator stays on, repeat steps 14 thru 22. If after doing those steps the indicator
continues to stay on, read and troubleshoot the SRS DTCs or refer to symptom troubleshooting.
23. Use the HDS to remove the short on the SCS line.
NOTE:
^ Always check the front passenger's seat weight sensor output after replacing any of the front
passenger's seat components, except the ODS unit, and after a vehicle collision.
1. Adjust the front passenger's seat to its most rearward position, and adjust the seat-back to a
normal upright position. Make sure to remove items that are on, under, or near the seat.
2. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), and wait for the passenger airbag OFF indicator to go off.
^ 2-door: 64 pounds. (A case of Honda coolant and a 1 gallon jug of VTM-4 fluid is 64 pounds.)
4. For 2-door models: Firmly tap on the headrest twice to release any stiction that may be present
in the seat weight sensors.
5. Watch the passenger airbag OFF indicator. The indicator should come on and stay on. If the
indicator does not come on, check for SRS DTCs and troubleshoot them.
8. Watch the passenger airbag OFF indicator. The indicator should go off.
^ If the indicator goes off, the front passenger's weight sensors are OK.
^ If the indicator does not go off, check for SRS DTCs and troubleshoot them, then repeat steps 1
thru 8.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Sensors and Switches - Restraint Systems > Seat Occupant Sensor >
Component Information > Locations > Component Locations
Seat Occupant Sensor: Component Locations
4-door Removal
NOTE: Removal of the front passenger's weight sensors must be done according to Precautions
and Procedures.
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery, then wait for 3 minutes before starting work. 2.
Remove the front passenger's seat assembly section. 3. Remove the cushion cover/pad from the
seat cushion frame. 4. Using a TORX E18 socket, remove the TORX nuts (A) attaching the seat
track (B) to the front passenger's seat slide assembly including all four
5. Disconnect the sensor connectors (D) from the front passenger's weight sensors (E), then
remove the front passenger's weight sensors.
Installation
NOTE: Be sure to install the harness wires so they are not pinched or interfering with other parts.
1. Install the new front passenger's seat slide assembly including all four front passenger's weight
sensors under the seat track. 2. Apply multipurpose grease to the spring washer and bushing.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
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Component Information > Service and Repair > 4-Door > Page 7125
3. Insert a 3.5 mm center punch into the hole in the cushion frame to position the spring washers,
when tightening the TORX nuts (A). Begin with the
6. Reassemble the front passenger's seat cushion cover/pad. 7. Reinstall the front passenger's
seat. 8. Reconnect the negative cable to the battery. 9. Calibrate the ODS unit.
10. After installing the front passenger's weight sensors, confirm proper system operation: Turn the
ignition switch ON (II); the SRS indicator should
2-door
Removal
NOTE: Removal of the front passenger's weight sensors must be done according to Precautions
and Procedures.
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery, then wait for 3 minutes before starting work. 2.
Remove the front passenger's seat assembly. 3. Remove the cushion cover/pad from the seat
cushion frame. 4. Using a TORX T27 bit, remove the tamper-resistant TORX bolts (A) that attach
the seat track (B) to the weight sensors (C).
5. Disconnect the sensor connectors (D) from the ODS unit harness, then remove the front
passenger's weight sensors.
Installation
NOTE:
- Be sure to install the harness wires so they are not pinched or interfere with other parts.
- Make sure both of the hooks (A) on the seat track are properly secured to the front bracket (B). If
the hooks are not properly secured, the seat weight sensors will not function properly.
1. Install the new front passenger's weight sensors with tamper-resistant TORX bolts (C) under the
seat track.
2. Reassemble the front passenger's seat cushion cover/pad. 3. Reinstall the front passenger's
seat. 4. Reconnect the negative cable to the battery. 5. Calibrate the ODS unit.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Sensors and Switches - Restraint Systems > Seat Occupant Sensor >
Component Information > Service and Repair > 4-Door > Page 7128
6. After installing the front passenger's weight sensors, confirm proper system operation: Turn the
ignition switch ON (II); the SRS indicator should
Removal
NOTE:
- Removal of the driver's seat position sensor must be done according to Precautions and
Procedures.
- Do not turn the ignition switch ON (II), and do not connect the battery cable while removing the
driver's seat position sensor.
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery, then wait for 3 minutes before starting work. 2.
Disconnect the driver's airbag 4P connector. 3. Remove the driver's seat assembly. 4. Disconnect
the seat position sensor harness 2P connector (A) from the driver's seat position sensor.
5. Using a TORX T30 bit, remove the TORX bolt (B), then remove the driver's seat position sensor.
Installation
NOTE:
- Be sure to install the harness so it does not pinched or interfere with other parts.
- Do not turn the ignition switch ON (II), and do not connect the battery cable, while installing the
driver's seat position sensor.
- After installing the driver's seat position sensor, make sure it is clean. Keep it away from dust.
1. Install the driver's seat position sensor with a TORX bolt (A), then connect the seat position
sensor harness 2P connector to the driver's seat
2. Install the driver's seat assembly. 3. Reconnect the negative cable to the battery. 4. Check the
operation of the driver's seat position sensor with the HDS.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Antenna > Antenna Amplifier > Component Information
> Service and Repair
3. Disconnect the connectors (B) from the AM/FM antenna amplifier (C).
4. Remove the bolt and AM/FM antenna amplifier. 5. Install the unit in the reverse order of removal.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Antenna > Global Positioning System Antenna >
Component Information > Service and Repair
Global Positioning System Antenna: Service and Repair
2. Remove the bolts (B), then disconnect the connectors and remove the map lights housing (C). 3.
Carefully pry off the moonroof switch (D) from the map light housing while pressing the retaining
tabs (E). 4. From the moonroof switch (A), remove the screw and microphone (B).
Antenna Cable: Technical Service Bulletins Audio System - Revised Poor Reception Repair
08-088
October 2, 2009
(Supersedes 08-088, dated November 20, 2008, to revise the information marked by the black bars
and asterisks)
*REVISION SUMMARY
^ Under TOOL IN FORMATION, a new antenna adapter was added, and photos of all the adapters
were added.*
SYMPTOM
NOTE:
If the vehicle is 2006-07 Ridgeline, refer to Service Bulletin 07-079, Poor AM Reception or Static
While Driving Over Bumps, before using the following REPAIR PROCEDURE.
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Test the antenna circuit using the test antenna, and repair or replace any damaged AM/FM
antenna leads or parts.
*TOOL INFORMATION
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Antenna > Antenna, Radio > Antenna Cable >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Audio System - Revised Poor Reception Repair > Page 7148
NOTE:
Adapter TIN 07AAJ-000A700 has a small barrel adapter on one end with a standard barrel adapter
on the other end. All other adapters have a standard barrel adapter on the end that is not shown.*
REPAIR PROCEDURE
NOTE:
^ Vehicles may have the following parts that you need to check. Refer to the applicable service
manual for more information on these parts:
- AM/FM antenna
^ There are several different antenna styles and locations. Refer to the applicable service manual
for specific part information and locations.
^ Aftermarket metallic window tinting can affect AM/ FM window antennas. If the vehicle is
equipped with a window antenna, check all the other parts
first. If the reception is still poor and the vehicle has aftermarket tinting, remove the tinting, then
retest. If the reception is still poor, replace the AM/FM antenna.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Antenna > Antenna, Radio > Antenna Cable >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Audio System - Revised Poor Reception Repair > Page 7149
^ To prevent rattles, slapping, or other noises, make sure to attach the sublead and the lead to the
vehicle harness or the vehicle using clips, wire ties, or
electrical tape.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Antenna > Antenna, Radio > Antenna Cable >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Audio System - Revised Poor Reception Repair > Page 7150
^ Refer to the following illustrations for the names and general locations of the AM/FM antenna and
its parts. These images are examples only. Refer to
^ Online, enter keyword SEEK, then select Seek Stop Test from the list.
- If the vehicle receives at least 10 percent fewer stations than a known-good vehicle, go to step 2.
^ Online, enter keyword SEEK, then select Seek Stop Test from the list.
- If the vehicle receives at least 10 percent fewer stations than a known-good vehicle, go to step 2.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
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Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Audio System - Revised Poor Reception Repair > Page 7151
2. Make sure you have the anti-theft codes for the audio system and the navigation system (if
equipped).
NOTE:
Eject all the discs before removing the audio unit to prevent damaging the CD player's load
mechanism.
3. Disconnect the AM/FM antenna lead from the AMI FM antenna amplifier lead.
NOTE:
Refer to the applicable service manual, because you may need to remove trim, the headliner, or
other parts.
4. Connect the test antenna to the AM/FM antenna lead using the appropriate adapter.
^ If the number of AM and FM stations the vehicle receives is within 10 percent of those on a
known-good vehicle, go to step 15.
^ If the vehicle receives at least 10 percent fewer stations than a known-good vehicle, go to step 6.
6. Disconnect the AM/FM antenna sublead from the AM/FM antenna lead.
7. Connect the test antenna to the AM/FM antenna sublead (the harness connected to the audio
unit) using the appropriate adapter.
^ If the number of AM and FM stations the vehicle receives is within 10 percent of those on a
known-good vehicle, go to step 13.
^ If the vehicle receives at least 10 percent fewer stations than a known-good vehicle, go to step 9.
10. Connect the test antenna to the audio unit using the appropriate adapter.
^ If the number of AM and FM stations the vehicle receives increases and is within 10 percent of
those on a known-good vehicle, go to step 12.
^ If the number of AM and FM stations doesn't improve, or is not within 10 percent of those on a
known-good vehicle, replace the audio unit, then retest.
13. At the AM/FM antenna sublead, do the troubleshooting to check the voltage and the continuity:
^ Online, enter keyword FM, then select Symptom Troubleshooting: Poor AM or FM radio reception
or interference from the list.
14. Reconnect the AM/FM antenna sublead to the AM/ FM antenna lead.
15. At the AM/FM antenna lead, do the troubleshooting to check the voltage and the continuity:
^ Online, enter keyword FM, then select Symptom Troubleshooting: Poor AM or FM radio reception
or interference from the list.
- If the Poor AM or FM radio reception troubleshooting results are NG, replace the AM/FM antenna
lead.
NOTE:
^ Some vehicles do not have an AM/FM antenna amplifier, or have one that is built into the AM/FM
antenna. In these cases, substitute a known- good AM/FM antenna.
^ Refer to the applicable service manual, because you may need to remove the headliner, the
carpet, or other parts to access the AM/FM antenna amplifier.
^ If the number of AM and FM stations the vehicle receives is within 10 percent of those on a
known-good vehicle, replace the original AM/FM antenna amplifier, then recheck.
^ If the vehicle receives at least 10 percent fewer stations than a known-good vehicle, and it has a
separate antenna amplifier, repair or replace the AM/FM antenna.
^ If the vehicle receives at least 10 percent fewer stations than a known-good vehicle, and it
doesn't have an antenna amplifier, or has one built into the AM/FM antenna, replace the original
AM/FM antenna.
Disclaimer
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Antitheft and Alarm Systems > Alarm Module, (Vehicle
Antitheft) > Component Information > Locations
Alarm Module: Locations
1. Remove the driver's dashboard lower cover. 2. Remove the steering column covers. 3.
Disconnect the 7P connector (A) from the immobilizer-keyless control unit (B).
4. Remove the two screws and the immobilizer-keyless control unit from the ignition key cylinder
(C). 5. Install the immobilizer-keyless control unit in the reverse order of removal. 6. After
replacement, register the immobilizer-keyless control unit, and make sure the immobilizer system
works properly.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Antitheft and Alarm Systems > Hood Sensor/Switch
(For Alarm) > Component Information > Locations > Component Locations
2. Carefully pull out the auxiliary jack assembly (A), then disconnect the 5P connector (B).
06-001
Audio, Navigation, and RES Unit In-Warranty Exchange and Out-of-Warranty Repair
(Supersedes 06-601, dated March 4, 2009, to revise the information marked by the black bars and
asterisks)
*REVISION SUMMARY Under OUT-OF-WARRANTY REPAIR, the address for Pioneer Electronics
Service was changed.*
COVERAGE
This bulletin applies to all Honda audio units, CD players/changers, cassette tape players,
navigation units, and rear entertainment system (RES) units, both in warranty and out of warranty.
Use only remanufactured components for warranty repairs on customer vehicles. Follow the
warranty information and procedures given in this service bulletin.
^ Remanufactured audio, navigation, and RES units are not available for non-warranty repairs.
^ A new component may be used to repair a customer's vehicle only if the remanufactured
component is currently unavailable from American Honda.
^ You must receive authorization from your District Parts and Service Manager (DPSM) before
ordering a new component.
Failed Part: Use the RM part number from the repair order without the RM (example:
08A06-341-110)
Symptom Code: From Audio Customer Contention Codes in the Flat Rate Manual
Part used for repair: Use the RM part number from the repair order (example: 08A06-341-110RM)
IN-WARRANTY DIAGNOSIS
Service Advisor:
Interview the customer to get as much information as possible. Information like where and when
the problem occurs is vital to your diagnosis. This information also helps you to determine if the
audio, navigation, or RES system is operating normally, or if a problem exists. Write the complaint
on the repair order.
NOTE:
For CD/DVD related problems, you must verify if the customer used discs with adhesive labels.
Service Technician:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Entertainment Systems > DVD Player > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Audio/Navigation/RES - Warr. Exchange/Non-Warr Repair > Page 7182
1. Print out the appropriate system worksheet from an Interactive Network (iN) workstation.
^ Click on Audio System Worksheet, Navigation System Worksheet, or Rear Entertainment System
Worksheet.
2. Duplicate and confirm the problem using the customer information written on the repair order or
have the customer demonstrate the problem, then
Using the SYMPTOM TROUBLESHOOTING INDEX or the DTC INDEX (if applicable) in the
applicable service manual, find the symptom that matches the customers complaint, and follow the
diagnostic procedure:
- Enter a keyword: AUDIO, NAVIGATION, or RES, and the DTC (if applicable)
- Select the appropriate Service Bulletin, ServiceNews article, or Symptom Troubleshooting from
the list.
3. Repair the vehicle according to your diagnosis, then confirm the repair by trying to duplicate the
customer's original complaint, or check to see if the
DTC returns:
^ For vehicle service contract (VSC) and certified used car (CUC) repairs, call.
^ For goodwill repairs, contact your dealership's District Parts and Service Manager (DPSM).
IN-WARRANTY EXCHANGE
Service Technician:
NOTE:
^ Use the iN to order a remanufactured audio, navigation, or RES unit. Do not call the
Remanufactured Parts Dealer Service Group.
^ A Tech Line reference number is not required to submit the order. Check Yes, and enter the
Reference Number only when there is a preexisting Tech Line contact.
2. From the iN main menu, click on SERVICE, then click on AUDIO, then select Warranty Audio
Order.
3. Select the model, year, and keyword (AUDIO, NAVIGATION, or RES) for the vehicle you are
working on, then click on Search.
4. Review all displayed publications for additional repair information. If you cannot repair the
problem, go to step 5.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Entertainment Systems > DVD Player > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Audio/Navigation/RES - Warr. Exchange/Non-Warr Repair > Page 7184
5. Click Warranty Audio Order to view the Warranty Audio Order form.
6. Enter the VIN and the mileage, then click the Submit button to view the Warranty Audio Order
form. Use the completed Audio/Navigation/RES
Worksheet to help you answer the questions on the Warranty Audio Order form.
Questions with a red asterisk (*) are required fields that you must answer to submit the form. Make
sure the information is complete (17-digit VIN, etc.). This information is critical to the
remanufacturing process.
Screen # 2 of the form contains the problem description, condition information, and shared
functions. Fill this section out with as much information as possible. Select one part number from
the list provided, then click Submit.
It is your responsibility to ensure the correct part number is selected based on color and application
information.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Entertainment Systems > DVD Player > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Audio/Navigation/RES - Warr. Exchange/Non-Warr Repair > Page 7185
NOTE:
Once you submit your order, you can track it using the Warranty Audio VIN Inquiry screen on the
iN. For details, go to WARRANTY AUDIO ORDER PROGRAM FREQUENTLY ASKED
QUESTIONS in this service bulletin.
7. You will receive a remanufactured audio/navigation/RES unit packed in a reusable shipping box.
Save this box and the packing materials.
You must return the failed audio/navigation/RES unit core in this box. Otherwise your dealership
risks being billed a core loss charge, ranging from $800 to $2,500, depending on the unit.
^ Online, enter a keyword: AUDIO, NAVIGATION, or RES. Select the appropriate removal
procedure from the list.
^ Online, enter a keyword: AUDIO, NAVIGATION, or RES. Select the appropriate installation
procedure from the list.
10. If the remanufactured unit has a shipping cover and shipping screws, make sure you transfer
them to the faulty unit being returned. Also be sure to
transfer all of the mounting brackets to the replacement unit. Failure to do this may result in dash
squeaks and rattles.
NOTE:
If the customer's media (CD, CD magazine, DVD, DVD-A, cassette tape, etc.) is stuck in the unit,
leave it there for these reasons:
Make sure the failed audio/navigation/RES unit core is not disassembled! If the core is
disassembled, your dealership will be debited a core loss charge ranging from $800 to $2,500,
depending on the unit.
11. Put the failed audio/navigation/RES unit core in the same box that the remanufactured unit
came in.
NOTE:
If you do not return the failed audio/navigation/RES unit core in this same box, your warranty claim
will be debited and the core will be sent back to your dealership.
Parts Manager:
12. The Warranty Audio/Navigation/RES Unit Order form you submitted is kept on the iN for 60
days. Print out a copy to put in the box with your core
return:
^ Click on Transactions.
^ Under Transaction Description, click on Warranty Audio Order, then go back to the top of the
page and click on Search.
^ Scroll down to the appropriate VIN, then select it to view the form.
^ Review the form, then print out a copy by clicking on the printer icon.
13. Print out a copy of the Core Return Update Acknowledgement to put in the box with your core
return:
^ Select the appropriate VIN to view the Update Core Return information screen.
^ Review the form, then print out a copy by clicking on the printer icon.
14. Place the printed copies of the Warranty Audio/Navigation/RES Unit Order form and the Core
Return Update Acknowledgement into the core
NOTE:
If you return a failed audio/navigation/RES core without the proper forms, your warranty claim will
be debited and the core will be sent back to your dealership.
15. Ship the failed audio/navigation/RES unit core to the appropriate location by using the prepaid
shipping label that came with the remanufactured
audio/navigation/RES unit.
NOTE:
If the failed audio/navigation/RES unit core is not received at the specified address within 30 days
from the order date of the remanufactured audio/navigation/RES unit, your warranty claim will be
debited, and your dealership will be issued a core loss charge ranging between $800 and $2,500. If
you know that you cannot return the core within 30 days, call the Remanufactured Parts Dealer
Service Group, and ask for an extension.
^ If you call for an extension and the core is not received within 60 days from the order date, you
will be debited the full amount of the warranty claim.
^ If you do not call for an extension, and the core is received between 31 and 60 days from the
order date of the remanufactured audio/navigation/RES unit, a $250 late core charge will be
assessed.
Here is a list of answers to the most frequently asked questions about the warranty audio order
program:
Answer: Use the program when you are replacing an audio/navigation/RES unit under warranty
(including goodwill) that has an internal failure.
NOTE:
The customer's media (CD, CD magazine, DVD, DVD-A, cassette tape, etc.) is removed by the
supplier at tear down and inspection of the failed unit, and mailed to your dealership.
Any failed audio/navigation/RES unit core that is returned disassembled is considered an unusable
core, and your dealership will be issued a core loss charge ranging between $800 and $2,500.
Answer: For a warranty replacement, use the ordering information IN WARRANTY EXCHANGE.
Question: Who do I call for questions on the Warranty Audio Order Program?
Answer: For administrative questions, call the Remanufactured Parts Dealer Service Group.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Entertainment Systems > DVD Player > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Audio/Navigation/RES - Warr. Exchange/Non-Warr Repair > Page 7187
Question: Who do I call if I need help diagnosing the problem or if I have technical questions about
the unit?
Answer: If you cannot find the answers in the appropriate service manual, service bulletins, or
ServiceNews articles on iN, create a Tech Line access code, then call Tech Line:
2. Select Tech Line. A dropdown menu appears, then select Tech Line. The ISIS main screen
appears.
3. Select SEARCH BY VEHICLE, and enter any vehicle with any keyword like NAVI, AUDIO, or
RES.
If you cannot resolve the problem with the information below, then click Tech Line. Select Tech
Line.
5. The Tech Line access code screen appears. Fill in all the required fields, then select SUBMIT.
6. Have the access number ready when you call Tech Line.
Answer: No.
Question: What year and model audio/navigation/RES unit can I order through the warranty audio
order program?
Answer: Most current models are available through the vehicle's standard warranty period. If your
application is not available, you will receive a message instructing you to call the Re manufactured
Parts Dealer Service Group at 888-997-7278.
4. Enter a date in the All Orders Accepted Since box, then click on Submit.
The AUDIO VIN INQUIRY ACKNOWLEDGEMENT screen appears, listing orders by VIN, ORD
REF (Order Reference), STAT (Status), SHIP DATE, SHIPPER, and PART NUMBER.
^ APPR - RPO Tech Line approved your order and forwarded it to AHM Parts.
^ CAN/BOC - Your order has been cancelled contact your assigned parts center.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Entertainment Systems > DVD Player > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Audio/Navigation/RES - Warr. Exchange/Non-Warr Repair > Page 7188
^ ALO/BOA - Your order has been allocated, but not released for shipment.
^ INV - Your order has been invoiced to your dealer parts account.
Service Technician:
1. If the customer's media (CD, CD magazine, DVD, DVD-A, or cassette tape) is stuck inside the
faulty unit, fill out a Customer Media Return Label
(reorder number Y0325), and attach it to the unit. The manufacturer will remove the media, and
mail it back to your dealership.
2. Use the pre paid shipping label. Each audio supplier provides a prepaid shipping label with the
remanufactured audio unit.
Return the core using this label to ensure it is received at the appropriate location for credit. Use
the pre paid shipping labels to return audio cores to authorized locations only; do not use them for
any other purpose. If you need additional prepaid shipping labels, contact Remanufactured Parts
Operations.
^ Pack one audio unit per box, and use a separate shipping label for each one.
^ On the line requesting Your Internal Reference Information, enter YOUR DEALER NUMBER and
the WARRANTY CLAIM NUMBER.
3. On the repair order, write down the warranty claim number, the original part number, the serial
numbers from both the faulty and remanufactured
4. Ship the faulty unit in the same box the remanufactured unit came in. Make sure you include this
required paperwork:
NOTE:
When the Remanufacturing Center gets the faulty unit, your warranty audio order will be updated to
indicate that the core was received. If the core is received 31-60 days from the order date, and you
have been debited a core loss charge, your dealership will be credited back, less a $250 late fee.
NOTE:
If you are making a repair or exchange because of a service bulletin or service campaign, do not
use OUT-OF-WARRANTY procedures. Refer to IN-WARRANTY EXCHANGE for more information.
Service Advisor:
1. Give your customer an estimate for repairing the unit (see step 6), plus the labor cost to replace
it. For an Alpine unit, your customer has the option of
contacting Alpine Electronics directly. Alpine's customer service number is 800-421-2284, Ext.
860304.
Service Technician:
^ Online, enter keyword AUDIO, NAVI, or RES, and select the appropriate removal procedure from
the list.
NOTE:
If the customer's media (CD, CD magazine, DVD, DVD-A, cassette tape, navigation DVD, etc.) is
stuck in the unit, leave it there. The manufacturer will remove and return it.
^ Select the applicable form from the list, and print it out:
Parts Manager:
5. Identify the manufacturer. Units sent to the wrong manufacturer may not be shipped back within
the usual 5-7 days.
^ If the unit has no number code on its face, check the label on the unit housing, and compare the
first two or three letters of the radio reference number (or the audio unit model number) to this list:
Alpine - CM, CD, MR, or MF Clarion - PH Fujitsu Ten - CE or SD Panasonic - CQ or CR Pioneer -
KEH or DEH
6. Contact the manufacturer (see step 9) to request an estimate for the cost of the repair plus
shipping.
^ Paying by check - Make a dealership check out to the manufacturer for the cost of repair and
return shipping. Make sure to include the check
NOTE:
For all Panasonic products, make your check out to Komtec Electronics.
^ Paying by credit card (Visa or Mastercard only) - When you use a credit card, fill in all of these
fields on the component repair form:
- Phone number
NOTE:
If you send in a faulty unit without a check or complete credit card information, the manufacturer
may send it back to you unrepaired, or they may repair it and send it back to you C.O.D.
^ Print two copies of the completed Out-of-Warranty/New Replacement component repair form.
Keep one copy with the repair order, and include the other copy with the faulty unit when you send
it to the manufacturer.
8. Carefully pack the faulty unit and the paperwork in a suitable box, and label the box clearly. You
are responsible for lost or damaged units; keep all
Alpine Electronics of America c/o Standard Radio Engineering Corp. 2012 Abalone Ave., Unit D
Torrance, CA 90501 800-421-2284, Ext. 860304
S3 Clarion Factory Service Center 241 Beaver Rd. Walton, KY 41094 800-347-8667 (You must get
authorization from Clarion before shipping units)
FTH Group Inc. (Kenwood Accessory Parts) 16685 E. Johnson Dr. City of Industry, CA 91745
626-333-2435 (You must get an RMA authorization number from www.fthgroupinc.com; from the
home page, select Consumer Products)
Komtec Electronics (Panasonic) 6590 Darin Way Cypress, CA 90630 714-903-3300 (Make sure
your check is made out to Komtec)
* Pioneer Electronics Service, Inc. 1925 E. Dominguez St. Long Beach, CA 90801 800-553-3756*
NOTE:
^ The manufacturer will repair the unit and ship it back within 5-7 working days, via UPS ground
prepaid or 2nd Day Air (whichever you requested). Do not forget to include the shipping cost in
your dealership payment. Units damaged by misuse or mishandling cannot be shipped back within
the usual 5-7 days.
^ Each manufacturer's guarantee for the repair differs. To confirm the repair guarantee, contact the
manufacturer using the phone number listed above.
10. To check on the status of your repair order, call the manufacturer.
If your customer has any further questions or concerns, have them call Automobile Customer
Service at 800-999-1009.
NOTE:
A damaged unit may need extra repair. If so, the manufacturer will call you with an estimate of any
added charges.
^ If you accept the estimate, mail a dealership check for the additional amount to the manufacturer,
authorize the increased amount to be applied to the credit card payment, or have the manufacturer
ship the unit back to you, and you pay the difference upon arrival (C.O.D.).
^ If you reject the estimate, the faulty unit will be returned to you along with a refund. However, you
will be charged $30.00 (C.O.D.) for diagnosis, shipping, and handling. The unit will be shipped back
to you, via UPS Ground.
NOTE:
It is very important that you fill out this form fully and accurately. An accurate explanation of the
problem and conditions helps the manufacturer to duplicate the problem, speeding the repair, and
reducing the number of No Trouble Found" (NTF) units.
Disclaimer
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Global Positioning System > Global Positioning
System Antenna > Component Information > Service and Repair
Global Positioning System Antenna: Service and Repair
2. Remove the bolts (B), then disconnect the connectors and remove the map lights housing (C). 3.
Carefully pry off the moonroof switch (D) from the map light housing while pressing the retaining
tabs (E). 4. From the moonroof switch (A), remove the screw and microphone (B).
SRS components are located in this area. Review the SRS component location.
Also review the precautions and procedures in Restraint Systems before doing repairs or service.
NOTE:
- Lay a workshop towel under the parts when working on them to protect the face panel from
scratches or other damage.
- Discharge static electricity from your body before and during the work.
- Do not touch the terminal connector of the flat plate cable with your bare hands. (If you have
touched it, wipe it off thoroughly.)
- Before replacing the navigation unit, make sure to remove the customer's navigation DVD, and
their audio CD, or PC card. Remanufactured navigation units do not come with a navigation DVD.
Re-install the customer's navigation DVD, audio CD, and audio PC card into the new
Remanufactured unit. If the navigation display won't open, manually remove the navigation DVD,
audio CD, and PC card.
1. Make sure you have the 4-digit anti-theft code for the navigation system, then write down the
audio presets. 2. Eject the DVD from the original navigation unit. To avoid scratching or damaging
the DVD, temporarily place the DVD in a jewel case. 3. Remove the subdisplay visor. 4. Remove
the center pocket hole lid and bolts, then pull out the center panel (A).
5. Disconnect the connectors (B), then remove the center panel. 6. Remove the screws, brackets
(A), and the navigation unit (B) from the center panel (C).
7. Install the navigation unit in the reverse order of removal, and make sure all connectors are
secure. 8. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), then reinstall the customer's original DVD, verifying
that the DVD is free of scratches or smudges. 9. Check any official Honda service website for more
service information about the navigation system.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Navigation System > Navigation Module > Component
Information > Locations > Page 7207
NOTE: Simply transferring the DVD from the original navigation unit to the new navigation unit
does not assure the correct software for the vehicle will be loaded into the new navigation unit.
Doing the DVD transfer without doing software patches may cause the new navigation unit to
appear to be malfunctioning.
10. Enter the new navigation anti-theft code, then enter the audio presets. 11. Park the vehicle
outside, and do the GPS initialization. 12. Give the new navigation anti-theft code to the customer.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Radio, Stereo, and Compact Disc > Amplifier, Sound
System > Component Information > Diagrams
Amplifier: Diagrams
Stereo Amplifier Connector For Inputs And Outputs (2-door With Premium Sound System) Part 1
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Radio, Stereo, and Compact Disc > Amplifier, Sound
System > Component Information > Diagrams > Page 7212
Stereo Amplifier Connector For Inputs And Outputs (2-door With Premium Sound System) Part 2
Stereo Amplifier Connector For Inputs And Outputs ('07-08 4-door With Premium Sound System)
Part 1
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Radio, Stereo, and Compact Disc > Amplifier, Sound
System > Component Information > Diagrams > Page 7213
Stereo Amplifier Connector For Inputs And Outputs ('07-08 4-door With Premium Sound System)
Part 2
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Radio, Stereo, and Compact Disc > Amplifier, Sound
System > Component Information > Service and Repair > 2-Door
2-door
1. Remove the center console. 2. Remove the stereo amplifier connectors (A) from the stereo
amplifier (B).
3. Loosen the mounting bolt, and remove the mounting bolt, then remove the stereo amplifier. 4.
Install the stereo amplifier in the reverse order of removal.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Radio, Stereo, and Compact Disc > Amplifier, Sound
System > Component Information > Service and Repair > 2-Door > Page 7216
4-door
1. Slide the driver's front seat forward fully. 2. Remove the amplifier cover (A), and connectors (B).
3. Remove the bolts and stereo amplifier (C). 4. Install the stereo amplifier in the reverse order of
removal.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Radio, Stereo, and Compact Disc > Compact Disc
Player (CD) > CD Changer > Component Information > Diagrams
SYMPTOM
The sound from the XM radio cuts out or disappears, but the audio unit continues to display the XM
station information. The sound returns after the ignition switch is turned to LOCK (0), then back to
ACC (I) or ON (II).
PROBABLE CAUSE
VEHICLES AFFECTED
2008-09 Accord 2007-09 Civic 2007-09 Civic Hybrid 2007-09 CR-V 2008-09 Element 2008-09
Odyssey 2009 Ridgeline
CORRECTIVE ACTION
PARTS INFORMATION
Civic:
Civic Hybrid:
Element:
2008-09 without navigation: P/N 39820-SCV-A71 2009 with navigation: P/N 39820-SCV-A81
REPAIR PROCEDURE
^ Online, under Search by Vehicle, enter keywords REMOVE XM and select the applicable XM
Removal/Installation instructions from the list.
Disclaimer
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Radio, Stereo, and Compact Disc > Radio/Stereo >
Radio Receiver > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Radio Receiver:
> 10-024 > Jun > 10 > Satellite Radio - XM Stations Displayed/No XM Audio
Radio Receiver: All Technical Service Bulletins Satellite Radio - XM Stations Displayed/No XM
Audio
10-024
SYMPTOM
The sound from the XM radio cuts out or disappears, but the audio unit continues to display the XM
station information. The sound returns after the ignition switch is turned to LOCK (0), then back to
ACC (I) or ON (II).
PROBABLE CAUSE
VEHICLES AFFECTED
2008-09 Accord 2007-09 Civic 2007-09 Civic Hybrid 2007-09 CR-V 2008-09 Element 2008-09
Odyssey 2009 Ridgeline
CORRECTIVE ACTION
PARTS INFORMATION
Civic:
Civic Hybrid:
Element:
2008-09 without navigation: P/N 39820-SCV-A71 2009 with navigation: P/N 39820-SCV-A81
REPAIR PROCEDURE
^ Online, under Search by Vehicle, enter keywords REMOVE XM and select the applicable XM
Removal/Installation instructions from the list.
Disclaimer
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Radio, Stereo, and Compact Disc > Radio/Stereo >
Remote Switch, Audio - Stereo > Component Information > Locations
1. Remove the steering wheel. 2. Remove the audio remote switch. 3. Install the audio remote
switch in the reverse order of removal.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Radio, Stereo, and Compact Disc > Speaker >
Component Information > Diagrams
Speaker: Diagrams
Speaker Replacement
1. Remove the front door panel. 2. Remove the screw. Then lift the speaker (A) straight up to
release the lower clips (B).
3. Disconnect the 2P connector (C), and remove the speaker. 4. Install the speaker in the reverse
order of removal.
Tweeter
1. Carefully pry the tweeter grille (A) out of the dashboard. Be careful not to damage the tweeter
grille and the dashboard.
2. Disconnect the 2P connector (B) from the tweeter. 3. Remove the tweeter speaker from the
speaker grille.
3. Disconnect the 2P connector (C), and remove the speaker. 4. Install in the reverse order of
removal.
1. Remove the rear shelf. 2. Remove the screw. Then lift the speaker (A) straight up to release the
clips (B).
3. Disconnect the 2P connector (C), and remove the speaker. 4. Install in the reverse order of
removal.
Subwoofer
1. Remove the rear shelf. 2. Remove the four mounting bolts from the subwoofer (A).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Radio, Stereo, and Compact Disc > Speaker >
Component Information > Diagrams > Page 7247
3. Disconnect the 2P connector (B), and remove the subwoofer. 4. Install in the reverse order of
removal.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Relays and Modules - Accessories and Optional
Equipment > Alarm Module, (Vehicle Antitheft) > Component Information > Locations
Alarm Module: Locations
1. Remove the driver's dashboard lower cover. 2. Remove the steering column covers. 3.
Disconnect the 7P connector (A) from the immobilizer-keyless control unit (B).
4. Remove the two screws and the immobilizer-keyless control unit from the ignition key cylinder
(C). 5. Install the immobilizer-keyless control unit in the reverse order of removal. 6. After
replacement, register the immobilizer-keyless control unit, and make sure the immobilizer system
works properly.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Relays and Modules - Accessories and Optional
Equipment > Navigation Module > Component Information > Locations
SRS components are located in this area. Review the SRS component location.
Also review the precautions and procedures in Restraint Systems before doing repairs or service.
NOTE:
- Lay a workshop towel under the parts when working on them to protect the face panel from
scratches or other damage.
- Discharge static electricity from your body before and during the work.
- Do not touch the terminal connector of the flat plate cable with your bare hands. (If you have
touched it, wipe it off thoroughly.)
- Before replacing the navigation unit, make sure to remove the customer's navigation DVD, and
their audio CD, or PC card. Remanufactured navigation units do not come with a navigation DVD.
Re-install the customer's navigation DVD, audio CD, and audio PC card into the new
Remanufactured unit. If the navigation display won't open, manually remove the navigation DVD,
audio CD, and PC card.
1. Make sure you have the 4-digit anti-theft code for the navigation system, then write down the
audio presets. 2. Eject the DVD from the original navigation unit. To avoid scratching or damaging
the DVD, temporarily place the DVD in a jewel case. 3. Remove the subdisplay visor. 4. Remove
the center pocket hole lid and bolts, then pull out the center panel (A).
5. Disconnect the connectors (B), then remove the center panel. 6. Remove the screws, brackets
(A), and the navigation unit (B) from the center panel (C).
7. Install the navigation unit in the reverse order of removal, and make sure all connectors are
secure. 8. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), then reinstall the customer's original DVD, verifying
that the DVD is free of scratches or smudges. 9. Check any official Honda service website for more
service information about the navigation system.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Relays and Modules - Accessories and Optional
Equipment > Navigation Module > Component Information > Locations > Page 7264
NOTE: Simply transferring the DVD from the original navigation unit to the new navigation unit
does not assure the correct software for the vehicle will be loaded into the new navigation unit.
Doing the DVD transfer without doing software patches may cause the new navigation unit to
appear to be malfunctioning.
10. Enter the new navigation anti-theft code, then enter the audio presets. 11. Park the vehicle
outside, and do the GPS initialization. 12. Give the new navigation anti-theft code to the customer.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Sensors and Switches - Accessories and Optional
Equipment > Hood Sensor/Switch (For Alarm) > Component Information > Locations > Component Locations
1. Remove the steering wheel. 2. Remove the audio remote switch. 3. Install the audio remote
switch in the reverse order of removal.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Sensors and Switches - Accessories and Optional
Equipment > Voice Activation Switch > Component Information > Locations
Towing
If the vehicle needs to be towed, call a professional towing service. Never tow the vehicle behind
another vehicle with a rope or chain. It is very dangerous.
Emergency Towing
Flat-bed Equipment - The operator loads the vehicle on the back of a truck. This is the best way of
transporting the vehicle.
To accommodate flat-bed equipment, the vehicle is equipped with front towing hooks (A), front tie
down hook slots (B), a rear towing hook (C), and rear tie down hook slots (D).
The towing hooks can be used with a winch to pull the vehicle onto the truck, and the tie down slots
can be used to secure the vehicle to the truck.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Towing / Trailer System > Towing Information >
System Information > Service and Repair > Page 7283
Wheel Lift Equipment - The tow truck uses two pivoting arms that go under the tires (front or rear)
and lift them off the ground. The other two wheels remain on the ground. This is an acceptable way
of towing the vehicle.
Sling-type Equipment - The tow truck uses metal cables with hooks on the ends. These hooks go
around parts of the frame or suspension, and the cables lift that end of the vehicle off the ground.
The vehicle's suspension and body can be seriously damaged if this method of towing is
attempted. This method of towing the vehicle is unacceptable.
If the vehicle cannot be transported by a flat-bed, it should be towed with the front wheels off the
ground. If the vehicle is damaged, and must be towed with the front wheels on the ground, or with
all four wheels on the ground, do this:
Manual Transmission
- Release the parking brake.
- Leave the ignition switch in the ACCESSORY (I) position so the steering wheel does not lock
- Make sure all accessories are turned off to minimize battery current draw.
Automatic Transmission
- Leave the ignition switch in the ACCESSORY (I) position so the steering wheel does not lock
- Make sure all accessories are turned off to minimize battery current draw.
It is best to tow the vehicle no farther than 50 miles (80 km), and keep the speed below 35 mph (55
km/h).
NOTICE:
- Improper towing preparation will damage the transmission. Follow the above procedure exactly. If
you cannot shift the transmission or start the engine (automatic transmission), the vehicle must be
transported on a flat-bed.
- Trying to lift or tow the vehicle by the bumpers will cause serious damage. The bumpers are not
designed to support the vehicle's weight.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Voice Activation System > Voice Activation
Microphone > Component Information > Service and Repair
Microphone Replacement
1. Remove the navigation unit. 2. Remove the meter upper visor. 3. Remove the wire harness clip
(A), screws and GPS antenna (B).
Door reinforcement beams used on Civic vehicles are made from a metal equivalent to high
strength steel.
If high strength steel is heated, the strength of the steel will be reduced. If high strength steel is
damaged, as in a vehicle accident, where the door reinforcement beams are bent, the beams may
crack attempting to straighten them.
Front and rear bumper reinforcement beams are made with aluminum alloy.
For this reason, door and bumper reinforcement beams should NEVER be repaired; they should be
replaced if they are damaged.
NOTE: If a door beam is damaged, the whole door panel assembly should be replaced.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Bumper > Front Bumper > System Information > Service and Repair >
Front Air Spoiler Replacement
Front Bumper: Service and Repair Front Air Spoiler Replacement
NOTE:
1. Remove the bolts (A) and clips (B, C) securing the air spoiler (D).
NOTE: To remove the clips, pry the inner clip up at the edge near the line (E) on its head.
2. Pull the front air spoiler back to detach the hooks (F) and remove the spoiler. 3. Si model 2-door:
Remove the clips securing the air spoiler (A).
NOTE: To remove the clip, pry the inner pin up at the edge near the line (B) on its head.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Bumper > Front Bumper > System Information > Service and Repair >
Front Air Spoiler Replacement > Page 7298
4. Pull the front air spoiler back to detach the hooks (C) and remove the spoiler. 5. Install the
spoiler in the reverse order of removal:
- Check if the clips are damaged or stress-whitened, and if necessary, replace them with new ones.
NOTE:
- Have an assistant help you when removing and installing the front bumper.
2. Remove the bolts (A, B), screws (C), and clips (D, E) securing the front bumper (F).
NOTE: To remove the clips D and E, pry the inner clip up at the edge near the line (G) on its head.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Bumper > Front Bumper > System Information > Service and Repair >
Front Air Spoiler Replacement > Page 7300
3. Pull on the front bumper (A) at the wheel arch areas to release it from the hooks (B) on the side
spacers (C).
4. With the help of an assistant, while pulling the wheel arch portion away from the side spacer (A)
and the lower corner portion (B) away from
between the front inner fender (C) and the front strake (D) (Si model 2-door), pull the front bumper
to release the bumper from the hooks (E) on the upper beam (F).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Bumper > Front Bumper > System Information > Service and Repair >
Front Air Spoiler Replacement > Page 7301
5. Remove the front bumper (A).
6. Release the hooks (A) (4-door), then remove the front bumper absorber (B) from the front
bumper beam (C).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Bumper > Front Bumper > System Information > Service and Repair >
Front Air Spoiler Replacement > Page 7302
7. Install the bumper in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
- Make sure the front bumper engages the hooks (of both center upper beams and side spacers)
on each side securely.
- Check if the clips are damaged or stress-whitened, and if necessary, replace them with new ones.
Door reinforcement beams used on Civic vehicles are made from a metal equivalent to high
strength steel.
If high strength steel is heated, the strength of the steel will be reduced. If high strength steel is
damaged, as in a vehicle accident, where the door reinforcement beams are bent, the beams may
crack attempting to straighten them.
Front and rear bumper reinforcement beams are made with aluminum alloy.
For this reason, door and bumper reinforcement beams should NEVER be repaired; they should be
replaced if they are damaged.
NOTE: If a door beam is damaged, the whole door panel assembly should be replaced.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Bumper > Rear Bumper > System Information > Description and Operation
> Page 7306
Rear Bumper: Service and Repair
NOTE:
- Have an assistant help you when removing and installing the rear bumper.
1. Remove the clips (A), screws (B, C), and bolts (D) securing the rear bumper (E).
2. Pull on the rear bumper (A) at the wheel arch areas to release it from the hooks (B) on the side
spacers (C).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Bumper > Rear Bumper > System Information > Description and Operation
> Page 7307
3. With the help of an assistant, while pulling the wheel arch portion away from the side spacer (A),
pull the rear bumper to release the bumper from
5. Remove the hooks (A) (4-door), then remove the rear bumper absorber (B) from the rear bumper
beam (C).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Bumper > Rear Bumper > System Information > Description and Operation
> Page 7309
6. Install the bumper in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
- Make sure the rear bumper engages the hooks (of both the side bracket and side spacers) on
each side securely.
- Check if the clips are damaged or stress-whitened, and if necessary, replace them with new ones.
1. Remove the rear bumper. 2. Detach the hooks (A), then remove the rear air outlet (B). Take care
not to scratch the body.
3. Install the air outlet by pushing on the hook portions until the hooks snap into place.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Cowl > Cowl Moulding / Trim > System Information > Service and Repair
Cowl Moulding / Trim: Service and Repair
1. Turn on the wiper switch, and move the windshield wiper arms 90°. 2. Remove the center cowl
cover (A).
1. Remove the hood rear seal (B) by pulling it out. 2. Remove the clips (C). 3. Release three front
hooks (D) from the edge of the under-cowl panel (E). 4. Detach the clips (F, G) by carefully pulling
the cover up, then remove the cover by releasing the hooks (H). Take care not to scratch the body.
3. Disconnect the windshield washer tube (I). 4. If necessary, remove the bolts (A, B), then remove
the under-cowl panel (C).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Cowl > Cowl Moulding / Trim > System Information > Service and Repair >
Page 7317
6. Detach the clips by carefully pulling the side cowl cover (A) up, then remove the cover by
releasing the hooks (B) from the front fender. Take care
not to scratch the body. Repeat this step for the other side cowl cover, and disconnect the
windshield washer tube.
7. Install the parts in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
- Check if the clips are damaged or stress-whitened, and if necessary, replace them with new ones.
1. Raise the glass fully. 2. Remove the door panel. 3. Disconnect the power door lock actuator
connector (A).
4. Remove the plug caps (B), then remove the plastic cover (C), as needed. 5. Detach the rod
fastener (A).
6. Remove the hole seal (A) (2-door) or maintenance cap (B) (4-door). Disconnect the outer handle
rod (C) with a clip remover.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Doors, Hood and Trunk > Doors > Front Door > Front Door Handle > Front
Door Exterior Handle > System Information > Service and Repair > Page 7325
7. Driver's and some passenger's: Pull both side flanges (A) of the retainer (B) outward, and pull
the middle flange portion (C) of the outer casing
cover (D) out, then disconnect the cylinder cable (E) from the latch.
10. If necessary, remove the special screws, then separate the door cylinder (A) and outer handle
protector (B). If the retainer (C) is damaged, release
11. While pulling the outer handle (A), remove the handle from the holes in the door panel. Take
care not to scratch the door.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Doors, Hood and Trunk > Doors > Front Door > Front Door Handle > Front
Door Exterior Handle > System Information > Service and Repair > Page 7327
12. Remove the rod fastener (A) from the outer handle (B), then replace it with a new one.
13. Install the handle in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
- Make sure the cylinder cable and each rod is connected securely.
- When reinstalling the door panel, make sure the plastic cover is installed properly and sealed
around its outside perimeter to seal out water.
1. Raise the glass fully. 2. Remove the door panel and inner handle. 3. Remove the plastic cover,
as needed. 4. Detach the rod fastener. 5. Disconnect the outer handle rod from the outer handle. 6.
Disconnect the cylinder cable from the latch. 7. Pull the glass run channel (A) away as needed, and
remove the bolt, then remove the center lower channel (B) by pulling it downward.
8. Detach the latch cable (A) and inner handle cable (B) from the holder (C), then remove the
screws (D, E) securing the latch (F), then remove the
latch through the hole in the door. Take care not to bend the outer handle rod (G), latch cable, and
inner handle cable.
9. Remove the screw, then remove the latch protector (A) by releasing the hook (B).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Doors, Hood and Trunk > Doors > Front Door > Front Door Latch > System
Information > Service and Repair > Page 7331
10. Detach the latch cable (A) and the inner handle cable (B) from the latch (C).
11. Install the latch in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
- Make sure the actuator connector is plugged in properly and each rod is connected securely.
- When reinstalling the door panel, make sure the plastic cover is installed properly and sealed
around its outside perimeter to seal out water.
* KTC trim tool set SOJATP2014 * * Trim pad remover. Snap-on A 177A or equivalent,
commercially available * Available through the American Honda Tool and Equipment Program.
2-door
NOTE:
- Use the appropriate tool from the KTC trim tool set to avoid damage when prying components.
1. Raise the glass fully. 2. Remove the mirror mount cover. 3. Pry out on the rear portion of the
inner handle cap (A) to release the hooks (B, C) using the appropriate trim tool.
4. Remove the screw and clip securing the inner handle (A).
5. Pry out the bottom edge of the grip cover (A) at the notch (B) with the trim tool to release the
hooks (C). Then remove the cover and the screw.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Doors, Hood and Trunk > Doors > Front Door > Front Door Panel > System
Information > Service and Repair > Coupe > Page 7336
6. Remove the screws.
7. Remove the door panel (A) with as little bending as possible to avoid creasing or breaking it.
1. Start at the bottom edge of the door panel, release the clips (B, C) with a commercially available
trim pad remover. 2. Detach the upper clips. 3. Starting at the rear, pull the door panel upward. 4.
Disconnect the power window switch connector (D).
NOTE: The inner handle cable (E) and latch cable (F) are connected to the inner handle (G). Do
not pull the door panel up too far, or these cables will be damaged.
8. While holding the door panel (A) away from the door, remove the inner handle (B) from the door
panel by releasing the hooks (C).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Doors, Hood and Trunk > Doors > Front Door > Front Door Panel > System
Information > Service and Repair > Coupe > Page 7337
9. Remove the door panel (A) while pulling the inner handle (B) out through the hole in the door
panel.
10. If necessary, disconnect the inner handle cable (A) and the latch cable (B) from the inner
handle (C), then remove the handle.
1. Detach the inner handle cable fastener (D), then disconnect the inner handle cable from the
cable fastener (E). 2. Detach the latch cable fastener (F) with a flat-tip screwdriver, then disconnect
the latch cable from the cable fastener (G).
1. Remove the screws (B, C), then remove the grip base (D). 2. Remove the screws (E), and
release the hooks (F) from the pull pocket (G), then remove the power window switch panel.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Doors, Hood and Trunk > Doors > Front Door > Front Door Panel > System
Information > Service and Repair > Coupe > Page 7338
12. Install the door panel in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
- Check if the clips are damaged or stress-whitened, and if necessary, replace them with new ones.
- The latch cable (A) should be fixed to the cable fastener (B) with the latch in lock position as
shown.
- Make sure the power window switch connector is plugged in properly, and the cable is connected
securely.
- Make sure the window and power door lock operate properly.
- When reinstalling the door panel, make sure the plastic cover is installed properly and sealed
around its outside perimeter to seal out water.
* KTC trim tool set SOJATP2014 * * Trim pad remover. Snap-on A 177A or equivalent,
commercially available * Available through the American Honda Tool and Equipment Program.
4-door
NOTE: Use the appropriate tool from the KTC trim tool set to avoid damage when prying
components.
1. Raise the glass fully. 2. Pry out on the rear portion of the inner handle cap (A) to release the
hooks (B, C) using the appropriate trim tool.
3. Remove the screw and clip securing the inner handle (A).
1. Pry up on the rear edge of the switch panel to release the rear clip using the appropriate trim
tool. 2. Pull out along the edge of the panel to release all of the hooks (B). 3. Pull the switch panel
rearward to release the front hook (C). 4. Disconnect the power mirror switch connector (D)
(driver's) and the power window switch connector (E).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Doors, Hood and Trunk > Doors > Front Door > Front Door Panel > System
Information > Service and Repair > Coupe > Page 7340
5. Remove the screw.
6. Remove the door panel (A) with as little bending as possible to avoid creasing or breaking it.
1. Start at the bottom edge of the door panel, release the clips (B, C) that are just above the marks
(D) on the edge of the panel with a
2. Detach the upper clips. 3. tarting at the rear, pull the door panel upward.
NOTE: The inner handle cable (E) and latch cable (F) are connected to the inner handle (G). Do
not pull the door panel up too far, or these cables will be damaged.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Doors, Hood and Trunk > Doors > Front Door > Front Door Panel > System
Information > Service and Repair > Coupe > Page 7341
7. While holding the door panel (A) away from the door, remove the inner handle (B) from the door
panel by releasing the hooks (C).
8. Remove the door panel (A) while pulling the inner handle (B) out through the hole in the door
panel.
9. If necessary, disconnect the inner handle cable (A) and the latch cable (B) from the inner handle
(C), then remove the handle.
1. Detach the inner handle cable fastener (D), then disconnect the inner handle cable from the
cable fastener (E). 2. Detach the latch cable fastener (F) with a flat-tip screwdriver, then disconnect
the latch cable from the cable fastener (G).
- Check if the clips are damaged or stress-whitened, and if necessary, replace them with new ones.
- The latch cable (A) should be fixed to the cable fastener (B) with the latch in lock position as
shown.
- Make sure the connectors are plugged in properly, and the cables are connected securely.
- Make sure the window and power door lock operate properly.
- When reinstalling the door panel, make sure the plastic cover is installed properly and sealed
around its outside perimeter to seal out water.
Make sure the door latches securely without slamming it. If necessary, adjust the striker (A): The
striker nuts are fixed, but the striker can be adjusted slightly up or down, and in or out.
2. Wrap the striker with a shop towel, then adjust the striker by tapping it with a plastic hammer (C).
Do not tap the striker too hard. 3. Lightly tighten the screws. 4. Hold the outer handle out, and push
the door against the body to be sure the striker allows a flush fit. If the door latches properly,
tighten the
NOTE:
- Put on gloves to protect your hands.
2. Detach the clips (B, C, D, E), then remove the door weatherstrip (F). 3. Install the weatherstrip in
the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
- Check if the clips are damaged or stress-whitened, and if necessary, replace them with new ones.
- Apply medium strength type liquid thread lock to door checker mounting bolt before installation.
- When reinstalling the door panel, make sure the plastic cover is installed properly and sealed
around its outside perimeter to seal out water.
March 5, 2010
Service Manual Update: Power Window Goes Up and Reverses On Its Own, Is Slow to Open and
Close, or Squeals, Creaks, Clunks, or Clicks
BACKGROUND
The information in this service bulletin addresses three power window problems that are not
currently covered in the service manuals.
VEHICLES AFFECTED
SYMPTOM 1
When using the auto-up function, the driver's or front passenger's window goes up and then
reverses on its own.
PROBABLE CAUSE
The power window control unit needs to be reset, or the run channel is damaged/dirty.
NOTE:
Do the power window control unit reset procedure first. If the window still doesn't work, go to
Symptom 2.
REPAIR PROCEDURE
NOTE:
You must do the manual reset from the power window switch at the affected window. For example,
if you're resetting the front passenger's power window control unit, do it from the front passenger's
power window switch, not the driver's power window master switch.
2. Lower the window all the way down with the power window switch.
3. Open the driver's or front passenger's door.
NOTE:
Do steps 4 thru 7 within 5 seconds of each other. Do these steps a total of four times in a row.
These steps clear the control unit's memory.
NOTE:
Make sure the auto-up feature doesn't work. If it does, do steps 4 thru 7 again, paying close
attention to the 5-second time limit for up to three more times for each series of steps.
8. Lower the window all the way down with the power window switch.
9. Pull up and hold the power window switch until the window goes all the way up, then keep
holding the switch for 1 second.
NOTE:
Make sure the auto-up/down feature works correctly by lowering and raising the window with the
power window switch. If it doesn't work correctly, repeat the manual reset several times, paying
close attention to the 5-second time limit. If it still doesn't work, troubleshoot the power window
circuit. Then continue with Symptom 2.
SYMPTOM 2
PROBABLE CAUSE
REQUIRED MATERIALS
NOTE:
Aftermarket window tinting will also cause the window to move slower and is not covered by the
manufacturer's warranty. No repair attempts should be made if the window has aftermarket tinting.
1. Compare the up and down speed of the affected window to another like vehicle:
^ If the speed is the same as the other vehicle, no further troubleshooting is required.
^ If the speed is not the same, remove the door panel and the door glass, then check the window
regulator speed.
^ If the speed is the same as it was with the glass in place, replace the window regulator.
NOTE:
When evaluating regulator performance without the glass, never allow the regulator to travel to the
full up position because damage can occur to the regulator.
3. Reinstall the glass into the door without bolting it to the regulator, then manually slide it through
its range of travel and check for excessive
resistance:
4. Inspect the run channel alignment, both inside and outside the door. Pay close attention just
below the door skin; this is a common area for the run
channel to be pinched.
^ If the run channel is pinched, replace it, then adjust the run channels and the glass as needed.
5. Clean the run channel using a soapy water solution, then apply Shin-Etsu grease. You may also
need to clean the portion of the run channel within the
door.
SYMPTOM 3
REQUIRED MATERIALS
REPAIR PROCEDURE
^ If the noise is the same, no repair is needed. Advise the customer that some noise is a normal
characteristic.
4. Unbolt the glass from the regulator, then manually slide it through its travel to check for
excessive resistance.
5. Clean the run channel using a soapy water solution, then apply Shin-Etsu grease inside the
channel. You may also need to clean the portion of the run
^ If the window operates normally after cleaning and applying grease, no further action is required.
6. Inspect the run channel alignment, both inside and outside the door. Pay close attention just
below the door skin; this is a common area for the run
channel to be pinched.
Front Door Window Glass Weatherstrip: Service and Repair Door Glass Outer Weatherstrip
Replacement
2-door
NOTE:
- Put on gloves to protect your hands.
1. Lower the glass fully. 2. Remove the door sash outer trim. 3. Starting at the rear, slowly pull up
the door glass outer weatherstrip (A).
4. Release the front portion of the glass outer molding (A) from the power mirror (B).
4-door
NOTE:
1. Lower the glass fully. 2. Release the front hook (A) from inside of the door, then pull up the front
door glass outer weatherstrip (B).
3. Starting at the front, slowly pull up the front door glass outer weatherstrip (A).
5. Twist the front door glass outer weatherstrip (A) to pull the rear hook (B) out from the inside of
the door, then remove the weatherstrip.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Doors, Hood and Trunk > Doors > Front Door > Front Door Window Glass
> Front Door Window Glass Weatherstrip > Component Information > Service and Repair > Door Glass Outer Weatherstrip
Replacement > Page 7362
6. Push the clip portions of new front door glass outer weatherstrip into place securely.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Doors, Hood and Trunk > Doors > Front Door > Front Door Window
Regulator > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Front Door Window Regulator: >
06-014 > Jul > 09 > Body - Front Door Glass Comes Out Of Run Channel
Front Door Window Regulator: Customer Interest Body - Front Door Glass Comes Out Of Run
Channel
06-014
July 7, 2009
*Applies To: 2006-08 Civic 4-Door - ALL Japan-Produced (VIN begins with JHM) 2007-08 Civic
Hybrid - ALL 2009 Civic Hybrid - From VIN JHMFA3...98000001 thru JHMFA3...98019119*
(Supersedes 06-014, dated September 7, 2007, to revise the information marked by the black bars)
*REVISION SUMMARY
^ In Applies To, the VIN ranges for the 2006-08 Civic 4-Door and the 2007-09 Civic Hybrid models
were changed.
^ Under PARTS INFORMATION, the part number and Honda code for the Front Window Regulator
were changed.*
SYMPTOM
The glass in the driver's or front passenger's door comes out of the run channel, or it binds and
then stalls when you try to close the window.
PROBABLE CAUSE
The manufacturing tolerances are not within specification for the glass run channel, the door glass,
and the window regulator.
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Replace the glass run channel, the door glass, and the window regulator.
PARTS INFORMATION
REQUIRED MATERIALS
Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request
consideration, and get a decision, before starting work.
REPAIR PROCEDURE
^ Refer to page 20-12 of the 2006-2009 Civic Service Manual or page 20-7 of the 2006-2009 Civic
Hybrid Service Manual, or
^ Online, enter keywords PANEL REM, then select Front Door Panel Removal/Installation (4-door)
from the list.
^ Refer to page 20-19 of the 2006-2009 Civic Service Manual or page 20-14 of the 2006-2009 Civic
Hybrid Service Manual, or
^ Online, enter keywords DOOR GLASS, then select Front Door Glass and Regulator Replacement
from the list.
3. Replace the glass run channel. Lightly coat the inside of the glass run channel with Shin Etsu
silicone grease.
4. Replace the window regulator and the door glass with new parts:
^ Refer to page 20-19 of the 2006-2009 Civic Service Manual or page 20-14 of the 2006-2009 Civic
Hybrid Service Manual, or
^ Online, enter keywords DOOR GLASS, then select Front Door Glass and Regulator Replacement
from the list.
5. Adjust the window to make sure the glass is pushed to the back of the door, then tighten the
glass mounting bolts:
^ Refer to page 20-35 of the 2006-2009 Civic Service Manual or page 20-28 of the 2006-2009 Civic
Hybrid Service Manual, or
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Doors, Hood and Trunk > Doors > Front Door > Front Door Window
Regulator > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Front Door Window Regulator: >
06-014 > Jul > 09 > Body - Front Door Glass Comes Out Of Run Channel > Page 7372
^ Online, enter keywords GLASS ADJUST, then select Glass Adjustment from the list.
6. Reassemble the remaining parts in the reverse order of removal.
^ Refer to page 22-255 of the 2006-2009 Civic Service Manual or page 22-193 of the 2006-2009
Civic Hybrid Service Manual, or
^ Online, enter keyword RESET, then select Power Window Control Unit Reset from the list.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Doors, Hood and Trunk > Doors > Front Door > Front Door Window
Regulator > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Front Door Window
Regulator: > 06-014 > Jul > 09 > Body - Front Door Glass Comes Out Of Run Channel
Front Door Window Regulator: All Technical Service Bulletins Body - Front Door Glass Comes Out
Of Run Channel
06-014
July 7, 2009
*Applies To: 2006-08 Civic 4-Door - ALL Japan-Produced (VIN begins with JHM) 2007-08 Civic
Hybrid - ALL 2009 Civic Hybrid - From VIN JHMFA3...98000001 thru JHMFA3...98019119*
(Supersedes 06-014, dated September 7, 2007, to revise the information marked by the black bars)
*REVISION SUMMARY
^ In Applies To, the VIN ranges for the 2006-08 Civic 4-Door and the 2007-09 Civic Hybrid models
were changed.
^ Under PARTS INFORMATION, the part number and Honda code for the Front Window Regulator
were changed.*
SYMPTOM
The glass in the driver's or front passenger's door comes out of the run channel, or it binds and
then stalls when you try to close the window.
PROBABLE CAUSE
The manufacturing tolerances are not within specification for the glass run channel, the door glass,
and the window regulator.
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Replace the glass run channel, the door glass, and the window regulator.
PARTS INFORMATION
REQUIRED MATERIALS
Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request
consideration, and get a decision, before starting work.
REPAIR PROCEDURE
^ Refer to page 20-12 of the 2006-2009 Civic Service Manual or page 20-7 of the 2006-2009 Civic
Hybrid Service Manual, or
^ Online, enter keywords PANEL REM, then select Front Door Panel Removal/Installation (4-door)
from the list.
^ Refer to page 20-19 of the 2006-2009 Civic Service Manual or page 20-14 of the 2006-2009 Civic
Hybrid Service Manual, or
^ Online, enter keywords DOOR GLASS, then select Front Door Glass and Regulator Replacement
from the list.
3. Replace the glass run channel. Lightly coat the inside of the glass run channel with Shin Etsu
silicone grease.
4. Replace the window regulator and the door glass with new parts:
^ Refer to page 20-19 of the 2006-2009 Civic Service Manual or page 20-14 of the 2006-2009 Civic
Hybrid Service Manual, or
^ Online, enter keywords DOOR GLASS, then select Front Door Glass and Regulator Replacement
from the list.
5. Adjust the window to make sure the glass is pushed to the back of the door, then tighten the
glass mounting bolts:
^ Refer to page 20-35 of the 2006-2009 Civic Service Manual or page 20-28 of the 2006-2009 Civic
Hybrid Service Manual, or
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Doors, Hood and Trunk > Doors > Front Door > Front Door Window
Regulator > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Front Door Window
Regulator: > 06-014 > Jul > 09 > Body - Front Door Glass Comes Out Of Run Channel > Page 7379
^ Online, enter keywords GLASS ADJUST, then select Glass Adjustment from the list.
6. Reassemble the remaining parts in the reverse order of removal.
^ Refer to page 22-255 of the 2006-2009 Civic Service Manual or page 22-193 of the 2006-2009
Civic Hybrid Service Manual, or
^ Online, enter keyword RESET, then select Power Window Control Unit Reset from the list.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Doors, Hood and Trunk > Doors > Front Door > Front Door Window
Regulator > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Front Door Window
Regulator: > Page 7380
06-014
July 7, 2009
*Applies To: 2006-08 Civic 4-Door - ALL Japan-Produced (VIN begins with JHM) 2007-08 Civic
Hybrid - ALL 2009 Civic Hybrid - From VIN JHMFA3...98000001 thru JHMFA3...98019119*
(Supersedes 06-014, dated September 7, 2007, to revise the information marked by the black bars)
*REVISION SUMMARY
^ In Applies To, the VIN ranges for the 2006-08 Civic 4-Door and the 2007-09 Civic Hybrid models
were changed.
^ Under PARTS INFORMATION, the part number and Honda code for the Front Window Regulator
were changed.*
SYMPTOM
The glass in the driver's or front passenger's door comes out of the run channel, or it binds and
then stalls when you try to close the window.
PROBABLE CAUSE
The manufacturing tolerances are not within specification for the glass run channel, the door glass,
and the window regulator.
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Replace the glass run channel, the door glass, and the window regulator.
PARTS INFORMATION
REQUIRED MATERIALS
Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request
consideration, and get a decision, before starting work.
REPAIR PROCEDURE
^ Refer to page 20-12 of the 2006-2009 Civic Service Manual or page 20-7 of the 2006-2009 Civic
Hybrid Service Manual, or
^ Online, enter keywords PANEL REM, then select Front Door Panel Removal/Installation (4-door)
from the list.
^ Refer to page 20-19 of the 2006-2009 Civic Service Manual or page 20-14 of the 2006-2009 Civic
Hybrid Service Manual, or
^ Online, enter keywords DOOR GLASS, then select Front Door Glass and Regulator Replacement
from the list.
3. Replace the glass run channel. Lightly coat the inside of the glass run channel with Shin Etsu
silicone grease.
4. Replace the window regulator and the door glass with new parts:
^ Refer to page 20-19 of the 2006-2009 Civic Service Manual or page 20-14 of the 2006-2009 Civic
Hybrid Service Manual, or
^ Online, enter keywords DOOR GLASS, then select Front Door Glass and Regulator Replacement
from the list.
5. Adjust the window to make sure the glass is pushed to the back of the door, then tighten the
glass mounting bolts:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Doors, Hood and Trunk > Doors > Front Door > Front Door Window
Regulator > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Front Door Window
Regulator: > Page 7382
^ Refer to page 20-35 of the 2006-2009 Civic Service Manual or page 20-28 of the 2006-2009 Civic
Hybrid Service Manual, or
^ Online, enter keywords GLASS ADJUST, then select Glass Adjustment from the list.
^ Refer to page 22-255 of the 2006-2009 Civic Service Manual or page 22-193 of the 2006-2009
Civic Hybrid Service Manual, or
^ Online, enter keyword RESET, then select Power Window Control Unit Reset from the list.
090707
06-014
July 7, 2009
*Applies To: 2006-08 Civic 4-Door - ALL Japan-Produced (VIN begins with JHM) 2007-08 Civic
Hybrid - ALL 2009 Civic Hybrid - From VIN JHMFA3...98000001 thru JHMFA3...98019119*
(Supersedes 06-014, dated September 7, 2007, to revise the information marked by the black bars)
*REVISION SUMMARY
^ In Applies To, the VIN ranges for the 2006-08 Civic 4-Door and the 2007-09 Civic Hybrid models
were changed.
^ Under PARTS INFORMATION, the part number and Honda code for the Front Window Regulator
were changed.*
SYMPTOM
The glass in the driver's or front passenger's door comes out of the run channel, or it binds and
then stalls when you try to close the window.
PROBABLE CAUSE
The manufacturing tolerances are not within specification for the glass run channel, the door glass,
and the window regulator.
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Replace the glass run channel, the door glass, and the window regulator.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Doors, Hood and Trunk > Doors > Front Door > Front Door Window
Regulator > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Front Door Window
Regulator: > Page 7383
PARTS INFORMATION
REQUIRED MATERIALS
Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request
consideration, and get a decision, before starting work.
REPAIR PROCEDURE
^ Refer to page 20-12 of the 2006-2009 Civic Service Manual or page 20-7 of the 2006-2009 Civic
Hybrid Service Manual, or
^ Online, enter keywords PANEL REM, then select Front Door Panel Removal/Installation (4-door)
from the list.
^ Refer to page 20-19 of the 2006-2009 Civic Service Manual or page 20-14 of the 2006-2009 Civic
Hybrid Service Manual, or
^ Online, enter keywords DOOR GLASS, then select Front Door Glass and Regulator Replacement
from the list.
3. Replace the glass run channel. Lightly coat the inside of the glass run channel with Shin Etsu
silicone grease.
4. Replace the window regulator and the door glass with new parts:
^ Refer to page 20-19 of the 2006-2009 Civic Service Manual or page 20-14 of the 2006-2009 Civic
Hybrid Service Manual, or
^ Online, enter keywords DOOR GLASS, then select Front Door Glass and Regulator Replacement
from the list.
5. Adjust the window to make sure the glass is pushed to the back of the door, then tighten the
glass mounting bolts:
^ Refer to page 20-35 of the 2006-2009 Civic Service Manual or page 20-28 of the 2006-2009 Civic
Hybrid Service Manual, or
^ Online, enter keywords GLASS ADJUST, then select Glass Adjustment from the list.
^ Refer to page 22-255 of the 2006-2009 Civic Service Manual or page 22-193 of the 2006-2009
Civic Hybrid Service Manual, or
^ Online, enter keyword RESET, then select Power Window Control Unit Reset from the list.
Technical Service Bulletin # 06-014 Date:
090707
06-014
July 7, 2009
*Applies To: 2006-08 Civic 4-Door - ALL Japan-Produced (VIN begins with JHM) 2007-08 Civic
Hybrid - ALL 2009 Civic Hybrid - From VIN JHMFA3...98000001 thru JHMFA3...98019119*
(Supersedes 06-014, dated September 7, 2007, to revise the information marked by the black bars)
*REVISION SUMMARY
^ In Applies To, the VIN ranges for the 2006-08 Civic 4-Door and the 2007-09 Civic Hybrid models
were changed.
^ Under PARTS INFORMATION, the part number and Honda code for the Front Window Regulator
were changed.*
SYMPTOM
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Doors, Hood and Trunk > Doors > Front Door > Front Door Window
Regulator > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Front Door Window
Regulator: > Page 7385
The glass in the driver's or front passenger's door comes out of the run channel, or it binds and
then stalls when you try to close the window.
PROBABLE CAUSE
The manufacturing tolerances are not within specification for the glass run channel, the door glass,
and the window regulator.
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Replace the glass run channel, the door glass, and the window regulator.
PARTS INFORMATION
REQUIRED MATERIALS
Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Doors, Hood and Trunk > Doors > Front Door > Front Door Window
Regulator > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Front Door Window
Regulator: > Page 7386
Office. You must request consideration, and get a decision, before starting work.
REPAIR PROCEDURE
^ Refer to page 20-12 of the 2006-2009 Civic Service Manual or page 20-7 of the 2006-2009 Civic
Hybrid Service Manual, or
^ Online, enter keywords PANEL REM, then select Front Door Panel Removal/Installation (4-door)
from the list.
^ Refer to page 20-19 of the 2006-2009 Civic Service Manual or page 20-14 of the 2006-2009 Civic
Hybrid Service Manual, or
^ Online, enter keywords DOOR GLASS, then select Front Door Glass and Regulator Replacement
from the list.
3. Replace the glass run channel. Lightly coat the inside of the glass run channel with Shin Etsu
silicone grease.
4. Replace the window regulator and the door glass with new parts:
^ Refer to page 20-19 of the 2006-2009 Civic Service Manual or page 20-14 of the 2006-2009 Civic
Hybrid Service Manual, or
^ Online, enter keywords DOOR GLASS, then select Front Door Glass and Regulator Replacement
from the list.
5. Adjust the window to make sure the glass is pushed to the back of the door, then tighten the
glass mounting bolts:
^ Refer to page 20-35 of the 2006-2009 Civic Service Manual or page 20-28 of the 2006-2009 Civic
Hybrid Service Manual, or
^ Online, enter keywords GLASS ADJUST, then select Glass Adjustment from the list.
^ Refer to page 22-255 of the 2006-2009 Civic Service Manual or page 22-193 of the 2006-2009
Civic Hybrid Service Manual, or
^ Online, enter keyword RESET, then select Power Window Control Unit Reset from the list.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Doors, Hood and Trunk > Doors > Front Door > Front Door Window
Regulator > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 7387
Front Door Window Regulator: Service and Repair
1. Remove the door panel. 2. Disconnect the power door lock actuator connector (A), and remove
the plug caps (B).
3. Pass the cables (C) and the harnesses (D) through the slits (E) in the plastic cover (F), then
remove them. 4. Carefully raise the glass (A) until you can see the bolts, then remove them.
Carefully pull the glass out through the window slot. Take care not to
6. Remove the bolts (D), and loosen the bolts (E), then remove the regulator through the hole in the
door.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Doors, Hood and Trunk > Doors > Front Door > Front Door Window
Regulator > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 7389
7. Apply multipurpose grease to all the sliding surfaces of the regulator (A) where shown.
8. Install the glass and regulator in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
- Roll the glass up and down to see if it moves freely without binding.
- Make sure that there is no clearance between the glass and glass run channel when the glass is
closed.
- Make sure the power door locks, windows, and power mirror operate properly.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Doors, Hood and Trunk > Doors > Rear Door > Rear Door Handle > Rear
Door Exterior Handle > System Information > Service and Repair
Rear Door Exterior Handle: Service and Repair
4-door
1. Raise the glass fully. 2. Remove the door panel. 3. Detach the harness clip (A), and disconnect
the power door lock actuator connector (B).
4. Remove the rear portion of the plug caps (C), then remove the plastic cover (D), as needed. 5.
Remove the latch mounting screws, then lower the latch. 6. Detach the rod fastener (A).
7. Disconnect the outer handle rod (A) from the outer handle (B) with a clip remover.
8. Remove the maintenance seal (A). Remove the bolts securing the outer handle protector (B),
then remove the protector by releasing the hook (C).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Doors, Hood and Trunk > Doors > Rear Door > Rear Door Handle > Rear
Door Exterior Handle > System Information > Service and Repair > Page 7395
9. While pulling the outer handle (A), remove the handle from the holes in the door panel. Take
care not to scratch the door.
10. Remove the rod fastener (A) from the outer handle (B), then replace it with a new one.
11. Install the handle in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
- When reinstalling the door panel, make sure the plastic cover is installed properly and sealed
around its outside perimeter to seal out water.
4-door
1. Raise the glass fully. 2. Remove the door panel. 3. Remove the plastic cover, as needed. 4.
Remove the screws (A, B) securing the latch (C), then lower it.
5. Detach the rod fastener. 6. Disconnect the outer handle rod from the outer handle. 7. Detach the
latch cable (A) and inner handle cable (B) from the holder (C), then remove the latch (D) out from
between the rear lower channel (E)
and the door. Take care not to bend the outer handle rod (F), latch cable, and inner handle cable.
8. Remove the screw, then remove the latch protector (A) by releasing the hook (B).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Doors, Hood and Trunk > Doors > Rear Door > Rear Door Latch > System
Information > Service and Repair > Page 7399
9. Detach the latch cable (A) and the inner handle cable (B) from the latch (C).
10. Install the latch in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
- Make sure the connector is plugged in properly, and each rod is connected securely.
- When reinstalling the door panel, make sure the plastic cover is installed properly and sealed
around its outside perimeter to seal out water.
4-door
NOTE: Use the appropriate tool from the KTC trim tool set to avoid damage when prying
components.
1. Raise the glass fully. 2. Pry out on the rear portion of the inner handle cap (A) to release the
hooks (B, C) using the appropriate trim tool.
3. Remove the screw and clip securing the inner handle (A).
1. Pry upon the rear edge of the switch panel to release the rear clip using the appropriate trim tool.
2. Pull out along the edge of the panel to release the hooks (B). 3. Pull the switch panel rearward to
release the front hook (C). 4. Disconnect the power window switch connector (D).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Doors, Hood and Trunk > Doors > Rear Door > Rear Door Panel > System
Information > Service and Repair > Page 7403
5. Remove the screw.
6. Remove the door panel (A) with as little bending as possible to avoid creasing or breaking it.
1. Start at the bottom edge of the door panel, release the clips that are just above the marks (B) on
the edge of the panel with a commercially
2. Detach the upper clips (C, D). 3. Stating at the rear, pull the door panel upward.
NOTE: The inner handle cable (E) and latch cable (F) are connected to the inner handle (G). Do
not pull the door panel up too far, or these cables will be damaged.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Doors, Hood and Trunk > Doors > Rear Door > Rear Door Panel > System
Information > Service and Repair > Page 7404
7. While holding the door panel (A) away from the door, remove the inner handle (B) from the door
panel by releasing the hooks (C), if necessary.
8. Remove the door panel (A) while pulling the inner handle (B) out through the hole in the door
panel.
9. If necessary, disconnect the inner handle cable (A) and the latch cable (B) from the inner handle
(C).
1. Detach the inner handle cable fastener (D), then disconnect the inner handle cable from the
cable fastener (E). 2. Detach the latch cable fastener (F) with a flat-tip screwdriver, then disconnect
latch cable from the cable fastener (G).
- Check if the clips are damaged or stress-whitened, and if necessary, replace them with new ones.
- The latch cable (A) should be fixed to the cable fastener (B) with the latch in lock position as
shown.
- Make sure the connector is plugged in properly, and the cables are connected securely.
- Make sure the window and power door lock operate properly.
- When reinstalling the door panel, make sure the plastic cover is installed properly and sealed
around its outside perimeter to seal out water.
Make sure the door latches securely without slamming it. If necessary, adjust the striker (A): The
striker nuts are fixed, but the striker can be adjusted slightly up or down, and in or out.
2. Wrap the striker with a shop towel, then adjust the striker by tapping it with a plastic hammer (C).
Do not tap the striker too hard. 3. Lightly tighten the screws. 4. Hold the outer handle out, and push
the door against the body to be sure the striker allows a flush fit. If the door latches properly,
tighten the
NOTE:
2. Detach the clips (B, C, D), then remove the door weatherstrip (E). 3. Install the weatherstrip in
the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
- Check if the clips are damaged or stress-whitened, and if necessary, replace them with new ones.
- Apply medium strength type liquid thread lock to the door checker mounting bolt before
installation.
March 5, 2010
Service Manual Update: Power Window Goes Up and Reverses On Its Own, Is Slow to Open and
Close, or Squeals, Creaks, Clunks, or Clicks
BACKGROUND
The information in this service bulletin addresses three power window problems that are not
currently covered in the service manuals.
VEHICLES AFFECTED
SYMPTOM 1
When using the auto-up function, the driver's or front passenger's window goes up and then
reverses on its own.
PROBABLE CAUSE
The power window control unit needs to be reset, or the run channel is damaged/dirty.
NOTE:
Do the power window control unit reset procedure first. If the window still doesn't work, go to
Symptom 2.
REPAIR PROCEDURE
NOTE:
You must do the manual reset from the power window switch at the affected window. For example,
if you're resetting the front passenger's power window control unit, do it from the front passenger's
power window switch, not the driver's power window master switch.
2. Lower the window all the way down with the power window switch.
3. Open the driver's or front passenger's door.
NOTE:
Do steps 4 thru 7 within 5 seconds of each other. Do these steps a total of four times in a row.
These steps clear the control unit's memory.
NOTE:
Make sure the auto-up feature doesn't work. If it does, do steps 4 thru 7 again, paying close
attention to the 5-second time limit for up to three more times for each series of steps.
8. Lower the window all the way down with the power window switch.
9. Pull up and hold the power window switch until the window goes all the way up, then keep
holding the switch for 1 second.
NOTE:
Make sure the auto-up/down feature works correctly by lowering and raising the window with the
power window switch. If it doesn't work correctly, repeat the manual reset several times, paying
close attention to the 5-second time limit. If it still doesn't work, troubleshoot the power window
circuit. Then continue with Symptom 2.
SYMPTOM 2
PROBABLE CAUSE
REQUIRED MATERIALS
NOTE:
Aftermarket window tinting will also cause the window to move slower and is not covered by the
manufacturer's warranty. No repair attempts should be made if the window has aftermarket tinting.
1. Compare the up and down speed of the affected window to another like vehicle:
^ If the speed is the same as the other vehicle, no further troubleshooting is required.
^ If the speed is not the same, remove the door panel and the door glass, then check the window
regulator speed.
^ If the speed is the same as it was with the glass in place, replace the window regulator.
NOTE:
When evaluating regulator performance without the glass, never allow the regulator to travel to the
full up position because damage can occur to the regulator.
3. Reinstall the glass into the door without bolting it to the regulator, then manually slide it through
its range of travel and check for excessive
resistance:
4. Inspect the run channel alignment, both inside and outside the door. Pay close attention just
below the door skin; this is a common area for the run
channel to be pinched.
^ If the run channel is pinched, replace it, then adjust the run channels and the glass as needed.
5. Clean the run channel using a soapy water solution, then apply Shin-Etsu grease. You may also
need to clean the portion of the run channel within the
door.
SYMPTOM 3
REQUIRED MATERIALS
REPAIR PROCEDURE
^ If the noise is the same, no repair is needed. Advise the customer that some noise is a normal
characteristic.
4. Unbolt the glass from the regulator, then manually slide it through its travel to check for
excessive resistance.
5. Clean the run channel using a soapy water solution, then apply Shin-Etsu grease inside the
channel. You may also need to clean the portion of the run
^ If the window operates normally after cleaning and applying grease, no further action is required.
6. Inspect the run channel alignment, both inside and outside the door. Pay close attention just
below the door skin; this is a common area for the run
channel to be pinched.
4-door
NOTE:
- Door panel
- Plastic cover
- Quarter glass
2. Release the front hook (A) from inside of the door, then pull up the front portion of the rear door
glass outer weatherstrip (B).
3. Starting at the front, slowly pull up the rear door glass outer weatherstrip (A).
4. Push the rear hook (A) out from inside of the door, then remove the rear door glass outer
weatherstrip (B).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Doors, Hood and Trunk > Doors > Rear Door > Rear Door Window Glass >
Rear Door Window Glass Weatherstrip > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 7422
5. Push the clip portions of the rear door glass outer weatherstrip into place securely.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Doors, Hood and Trunk > Doors > Rear Door > Rear Door Window
Regulator > System Information > Service and Repair
4-door
1. Remove the door panel. 2. Detach the harness clip (A), and disconnect the power door lock
actuator connector (B). Remove the plug caps (C).
3. Pass the cable (D) and the harnesses (E) through the holes (F) and slit (G) in the plastic cover
(H), then remove it. 4. Carefully move the glass (A) until you can see the bolts, then remove them.
Release the glass from the holder (B), then remove it from the
regulator (C), and carefully lower the glass. Take care not to drop the glass inside the door.
5. Remove the bolt (A) from the rear lower channel (B). Pull the glass run channel (C) away as
needed, and remove the screw (D).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Doors, Hood and Trunk > Doors > Rear Door > Rear Door Window
Regulator > System Information > Service and Repair > Page 7426
6. Pull the glass run channel (A) away as needed. Pull the rear lower channel (B) forward from the
quarter glass seal (C), then release the upper hook
(D) from the door. Remove the rear lower channel from the rear door glass (E), then pull the
channel up to remove it.
7. Remove the rear lower channel (A) from the glass run channel (B).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Doors, Hood and Trunk > Doors > Rear Door > Rear Door Window
Regulator > System Information > Service and Repair > Page 7427
8. Carefully remove the glass (A) out through the window slot. Take care not to drop the glass
inside the door.
9. Remove the quarter glass (A). Take care not to damage the outer weatherstrip (B).
13. Install the glass and regulator in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
- Roll the glass up and down to see if it moves freely without binding.
- Make sure that there is no clearance between the glass and glass run channel when the glass is
closed.
- When reinstalling the door panel, make sure the plastic cover is installed properly and sealed
around its outside perimeter to seal out water.
SRS components are located in this area. Review the SRS component locations, 2-door, 4-door
and the precautions and procedures before doing repairs or service.
NOTE:
2. Pull the carpet back as needed. 3. Release the opener cable (A) from the clips (B). Remove the
cushion tape (C).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Doors, Hood and Trunk > Fuel Door > Fuel Door Release Cable >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Page 7433
4. While pinching the hooks (A) from inside the vehicle, remove the grommet (B) from the body.
5. Release the hook (A), then remove the grommet (B) from the fuel fill door latch (C).
6. Remove the fuel fill door opener cable from inside the body. 7. Detach the opener cable junction
box (A) from the body.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Doors, Hood and Trunk > Fuel Door > Fuel Door Release Cable >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Page 7434
8. Disconnect the trunk lid opener cable (B) from the trunk lid latch (C). 9. Release the trunk lid
opener/fuel fill door opener cable from the clips (D, E).
10. Remove the trunk lid opener/fuel fill door opener cable from the vehicle. Take care not to kink
the cable. 11. Install the opener cable in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
- Align the marks (A) on the opener cable (B) with the cable clips (C) as shown.
KTC trim tool set SOJATP2014 * * Available through the American Honda Tool and Equipment
Program.
NOTE: Use the appropriate tool from the KTC trim tool set to avoid damage when prying
components.
1. Pry out the bottom edge of the front side cap (A) at the notch with the trim tool to detach the
hooks (B), and release the hooks (C), then remove the
2. Remove the opener lock cylinder (E), and loosen the bolt. 3. Remove the screw securing the
front door sill trim (A) and trunk lid open/fuel fill door opener.
4. Remove the front door sill trim, 2-door, 4-door. 5. Remove the bolt, then remove the trunk lid
opener/ fuel fill door opener (A) from the bolt (B).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Doors, Hood and Trunk > Fuel Door > Fuel Door Release Lever >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Page 7439
6. Disconnect the trunk lid opener/fuel fill door opener cable (A), then remove the opener (B). Take
care not to kink the cable.
7. Install the opener in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
- Fix at the original position in the outer end of cable on the trunk lid opener/fuel fill door opener
securely. And check the trunk lid latch operation: Make sure trunk lid latch, and fuel fill door latch
unlock when pulling, and pushing the trunk lid opener/fuel fill door opener. If necessary, adjust the
position of the cable end.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Doors, Hood and Trunk > Fuel Door > Fuel Door Switch > Component
Information > Locations > Component Locations
Reminder Systems Component Location Index
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Doors, Hood and Trunk > Fuel Door > Fuel Door Switch > Component
Information > Locations > Component Locations > Page 7444
NOTE:
2. From the trunk compartment, disconnect the fuel fill door switch connector (A), and detach the
harness clip (B).
3. Open the fuel fill door, and from the wheel arch, remove the fuel fill door switch (A) by turning it
90 ° from the fuel receptacle adapter (B).
4. From the wheel arch, detach the clips, and remove the grommet (A), then pull the fuel fill door
switch cable (B) out through the hole in the body.
5. Install the switch cable in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
- Check for damages or stress-whitened clips, and replace them with new ones.
- Align the marks (A) on the sensor cable (B) with the cable clips (C) and grommet (D) as shown.
- Make sure the fuel fill door switch connector is plugged in properly.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Doors, Hood and Trunk > Fuel Door > Fuel Door Switch > Component
Information > Locations > Page 7447
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Doors, Hood and Trunk > Hood > Hood Insulator / Pad > Component
Information > Service and Repair
1. Detach the clips using a clip remover. Release the hooks (A), then remove the hood insulator
(B). Take care not to scratch the hood.
2. Install the insulator in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
- Check if the clips are damaged or stress-whitened, and if necessary, replace them with new ones.
1. Remove the front grille cover. 2. With hood latch switch: Remove the clip (A), then disconnect
and detach the hood latch switch connector (B).
3. Remove the bolts, then remove the hood latch (C) from the body, and disconnect the hood
opener cable (D) from the hood latch. 4. Install the latch in the reverse order of removal, and note
these items:
- Apply multipurpose grease to each location of the hood latch indicated by the arrows.
- Make sure the hood opener cable is connected properly and hood latch switch connector is
plugged in properly (for some models).
NOTE:
3. Detach the clips (E) using a clip remover, release the hood opener cable from the clip (F), and
remove the grommet (G) from the body, then
remove the hood opener cable from the vehicle. Take care not to kink the cable.
4. Install the cable in the reverse order of removal, and check if the clips are damaged or
stress-whitened, and if necessary, replace them with new
ones.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Doors, Hood and Trunk > Hood > Hood Switch / Sensor > Hood
Sensor/Switch (For Alarm) > Component Information > Locations > Component Locations
127. Trunk Key Cylinder Switch (USA: LX, GX, 4-door EX, 4-door Si)
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Doors, Hood and Trunk > Trunk / Liftgate > Trunk / Liftgate Interior Trim
Panel > Component Information > Service and Repair > Trim Removal/Installation - Trunk Area
Trunk / Liftgate Interior Trim Panel: Service and Repair Trim Removal/Installation - Trunk Area
NOTE:
- Use the appropriate tool from the KTC trim tool set to avoid damage when removing components.
1. Pull the trunk floor (A) up, then remove the trunk tool box (B).
2. While pushing both hooks (A) down with your hands, pull the trunk floor (B) back to release
these hooks from the holes (C) in the trunk front trim
3. Remove the trunk lid weatherstrip near the trunk rear trim panel. 4. Detach the clips, and release
the hooks (A) by pulling the trunk rear trim panel (B) up, then remove it.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Doors, Hood and Trunk > Trunk / Liftgate > Trunk / Liftgate Interior Trim
Panel > Component Information > Service and Repair > Trim Removal/Installation - Trunk Area > Page 7482
5. Remove the clips securing the trunk front trim panel (A), and using a trim tool, remove the caps
(B), and remove the nuts securing the trunk
partition (C).
6. Fold both side edges of the trunk front trim panel (A), then remove the trunk front trim panel and
trunk partition (B) as an assembly.
7. If necessary, remove the clips, then separate the trunk front trim panel (A) and trunk partition (B).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Doors, Hood and Trunk > Trunk / Liftgate > Trunk / Liftgate Interior Trim
Panel > Component Information > Service and Repair > Trim Removal/Installation - Trunk Area > Page 7483
8. Remove the clips, then remove the trunk side trim panel (A).
9. Install the trim in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
- Check if the clips are damaged or stress-whitened, and if necessary, replace them with new ones.
Trunk / Liftgate Interior Trim Panel: Service and Repair Trim Removal/Installation - Trunk Lid
KTC trim tool set SOJATP2014 * * Available through the American Honda Tool and Equipment
Program.
4-door
NOTE:
- Put on gloves to protect your hands.
- Use the appropriate tool from the KTC trim tool set to avoid damage when prying components.
1. Remove the clips from both trunk lid hinge covers (A), then remove the covers.
2. Remove the clips (A, B), then remove the trunk lid trim (C).
3. Install the trim in the reverse order of removal, and check if the clips are damaged or
stress-whitened, and if necessary, replace them with new
ones.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Doors, Hood and Trunk > Trunk / Liftgate > Trunk / Liftgate Latch >
Component Information > Service and Repair
Trunk / Liftgate Latch: Service and Repair
1. 4-door: If equipped, remove the trunk lid trim. 2. Disconnect the cylinder rod from the lock
cylinder. 3. Disconnect the trunk lid opener cable (A), and on power trunk lid latch model and
security switch model, disconnect trunk lid latch switch
switch connector (C). Take care not to bend the cylinder rod.
6. Install the latch in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
- Make sure the connector is plugged in properly and the opener cable is connected properly.
- Make sure the trunk lid opens properly and locks securely.
- Fix the original position of the outer end of cable (A) on the trunk lid latch securely. And check the
trunk lid latch operation: Make sure the trunk lid latch unlocks when pulling the trunk lid opener/fuel
fill door opener. If necessary, adjust the position of the cable end.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Doors, Hood and Trunk > Trunk / Liftgate > Trunk / Liftgate Latch Release
Cable > Component Information > Service and Repair
Trunk / Liftgate Latch Release Cable: Service and Repair
SRS components are located in this area. Review the SRS component locations, 2-door, 4-door
and the precautions and procedures before doing repairs or service.
NOTE:
2. Pull the carpet back as needed. 3. Release the opener cable (A) from the clips (B). Remove the
cushion tape (C).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Doors, Hood and Trunk > Trunk / Liftgate > Trunk / Liftgate Latch Release
Cable > Component Information > Service and Repair > Page 7492
4. While pinching the hooks (A) from inside the vehicle, remove the grommet (B) from the body.
5. Release the hook (A), then remove the grommet (B) from the fuel fill door latch (C).
6. Remove the fuel fill door opener cable from inside the body. 7. Detach the opener cable junction
box (A) from the body.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Doors, Hood and Trunk > Trunk / Liftgate > Trunk / Liftgate Latch Release
Cable > Component Information > Service and Repair > Page 7493
8. Disconnect the trunk lid opener cable (B) from the trunk lid latch (C). 9. Release the trunk lid
opener/fuel fill door opener cable from the clips (D, E).
10. Remove the trunk lid opener/fuel fill door opener cable from the vehicle. Take care not to kink
the cable. 11. Install the opener cable in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
- Align the marks (A) on the opener cable (B) with the cable clips (C) as shown.
2-door
1. Disconnect the cylinder rod (A), and if equipped, disconnect the cylinder switch connector (B).
2. Remove the bolt securing the lock cylinder (A). Then turn the trunk lid lock cylinder clockwise,
and remove it.
3. Install the lock cylinder in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
- Make sure the cylinder switch connector is plugged in properly (if equipped) and the cylinder rod
is connected properly.
- Make sure the trunk lid opens properly and locks securely.
4-door
1. If equipped, remove the trunk lid trim. 2. Disconnect the cylinder rod (A), and if equipped,
disconnect the cylinder switch connector (B).
4. Remove the rear license trim. 5. Remove the bolt securing the lock cylinder (A).
6. Turn the lock cylinder (A) to release the hook (B) from the trunk lid (C), then remove the lock
cylinder.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Doors, Hood and Trunk > Trunk / Liftgate > Trunk / Liftgate Lock Cylinder >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Page 7499
7. Install the lock cylinder in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
- Make sure the cylinder switch connector is plugged in properly (if equipped) and the cylinder rod
is connected properly.
- Make sure the trunk lid opens properly and locks securely.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Doors, Hood and Trunk > Trunk / Liftgate > Trunk / Liftgate Release Lever
> Component Information > Service and Repair
Trunk / Liftgate Release Lever: Service and Repair
KTC trim tool set SOJATP2014 * * Available through the American Honda Tool and Equipment
Program.
NOTE: Use the appropriate tool from the KTC trim tool set to avoid damage when prying
components.
1. Pry out the bottom edge of the front side cap (A) at the notch with the trim tool to detach the
hooks (B), and release the hooks (C), then remove the
2. Remove the opener lock cylinder (E), and loosen the bolt. 3. Remove the screw securing the
front door sill trim (A) and trunk lid open/fuel fill door opener.
4. Remove the front door sill trim, 2-door, 4-door. 5. Remove the bolt, then remove the trunk lid
opener/ fuel fill door opener (A) from the bolt (B).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Doors, Hood and Trunk > Trunk / Liftgate > Trunk / Liftgate Release Lever
> Component Information > Service and Repair > Page 7503
6. Disconnect the trunk lid opener/fuel fill door opener cable (A), then remove the opener (B). Take
care not to kink the cable.
7. Install the opener in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
- Fix at the original position in the outer end of cable on the trunk lid opener/fuel fill door opener
securely. And check the trunk lid latch operation: Make sure trunk lid latch, and fuel fill door latch
unlock when pulling, and pushing the trunk lid opener/fuel fill door opener. If necessary, adjust the
position of the cable end.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Doors, Hood and Trunk > Trunk / Liftgate > Trunk / Liftgate Spring >
Component Information > Service and Repair
2-door
1. Remove the clips, then remove the torsion bar cover (A).
2. Remove the torsion bars (A) from the torsion bar clips (B).
3. Put on gloves to protect your hands. Remove the torsion bars with the torsion bar assembly tool
from both trunk lid hinges. First remove the left
torsion bar (A), then remove the right torsion bar (B).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Doors, Hood and Trunk > Trunk / Liftgate > Trunk / Liftgate Spring >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Page 7507
4. Remove the torsion bar clips (A) from the body.
5. Install the torsion bars in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
- Adjust the torsion bars forward or rearward with the torsion bar assembly tool.
- Positions where each torsion bar was installed in the factory are following: -
- Make sure the trunk lid opens properly and locks securely.
4-door
1. Remove the torsion bars (A) from the torsion bar center clip (B).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Doors, Hood and Trunk > Trunk / Liftgate > Trunk / Liftgate Spring >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Page 7508
2. Put on gloves to protect your hands. Remove the torsion bars with the torsion bar assembly tool
from both trunk lid hinges. First remove the left
torsion bar (A), then remove the right torsion bar (B).
3. Remove the torsion bar center clip (A) from the body.
4. Install the torsion bars in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
- The shapes of the right torsion bar (A) and left torsion bar (B) are shown. Install the torsion bars
properly.
- Adjust the torsion bars forward or rearward with the torsion bar assembly tool.
- Positions where each torsion bar was installed in the factory are following: -
- Make sure the trunk lid opens properly and locks securely.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Doors, Hood and Trunk > Trunk / Liftgate > Trunk / Liftgate Spring >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Page 7509
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Doors, Hood and Trunk > Trunk / Liftgate > Trunk / Liftgate Stop >
Component Information > Service and Repair
Trunk / Liftgate Stop: Service and Repair
2-door
1. Pull back the outside of the trunk lid cushion to release the outside hook (B). 2. Slide the trunk lid
cushion to the outside, then release the hooks (C) to remove it.
4-door
1. If equipped, remove the trunk lid trim. 2. Detach the clips (A) by pushing it from the hole in the
trunk lid (B), then remove the trunk lid cushion (C). Take care not to scratch the trunk lid.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Doors, Hood and Trunk > Trunk / Liftgate > Trunk / Liftgate Stop >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Page 7513
3. Install the cushion in the reverse order of removal.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Doors, Hood and Trunk > Trunk / Liftgate > Trunk / Liftgate Weatherstrip >
Component Information > Service and Repair
2. Apply clear weatherstrip sealant (B) into the channel of the trunk lid weatherstrip all the way
around. 3. Locate the painted alignment mark (C or D) on the trunk lid weatherstrip. Align the
painted mark in the center of the trunk lid opening, and install
the trunk lid weatherstrip all the way around in the direction shown. Make sure there are no
wrinkles in the weatherstrip.
Emblem/Sticker Replacement
NOTE: When removing the stickers, take care not to scratch the body.
1. Clean the body surface with a sponge dampened in isopropyl alcohol. After cleaning, keep oil,
grease, and water from getting on the surface. 2. Apply the stickers where shown:
- When installing the AT-PZEV sticker on the inside surface of the left rear door quarter glass, align
the sticker with the edge of the glass mark as shown, then press the sticker into place, and remove
the application tape.
- When installing the side NGV stickers on both rear doors, align the application tape with the
edges of the rear door and rear door molding as shown, then press the sticker into place, and
remove the application tape.
- When installing the CNG sticker on the trunk lid, align the application tape with the edge of the
trunk lid as shown, then press the sticker into place, and remove the application tape.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Exterior Moulding / Trim > Body Emblem > Component Information >
Service and Repair > Page 7521
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Exterior Moulding / Trim > Cowl Moulding / Trim > System Information >
Service and Repair
Cowl Moulding / Trim: Service and Repair
1. Turn on the wiper switch, and move the windshield wiper arms 90°. 2. Remove the center cowl
cover (A).
1. Remove the hood rear seal (B) by pulling it out. 2. Remove the clips (C). 3. Release three front
hooks (D) from the edge of the under-cowl panel (E). 4. Detach the clips (F, G) by carefully pulling
the cover up, then remove the cover by releasing the hooks (H). Take care not to scratch the body.
3. Disconnect the windshield washer tube (I). 4. If necessary, remove the bolts (A, B), then remove
the under-cowl panel (C).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Exterior Moulding / Trim > Cowl Moulding / Trim > System Information >
Service and Repair > Page 7525
6. Detach the clips by carefully pulling the side cowl cover (A) up, then remove the cover by
releasing the hooks (B) from the front fender. Take care
not to scratch the body. Repeat this step for the other side cowl cover, and disconnect the
windshield washer tube.
7. Install the parts in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
- Check if the clips are damaged or stress-whitened, and if necessary, replace them with new ones.
License Plate Bracket: Customer Interest Body - Rear License Plate Trim Paint Peeling
09-052
(Supersedes 09-052, dated July 10, 2009, to revise the information marked by the black bars and
asterisks)
VEHICLES AFFECTED
SYMPTOM
The paint on the rear license trim is peeling around the inner taillights.
PROBABLE CAUSE
There is not enough clearance between the rear license trim and the inner taillights.
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Replace the rear license trim, and adjust the inner taillights outward to prevent contact.
Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request
consideration, and get a decision, before starting work.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Exterior Moulding / Trim > License Plate Bracket > Component Information
> Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for License Plate Bracket: > 09-052 > Jul > 09 > Body - Rear License
Plate Trim Paint Peeling > Page 7534
PARTS INFORMATION
REPAIR PROCEDURE
3. Detach the clips by pushing them through the holes in the trunk lid from the inside, then remove
the rear license trim. Take care not to scratch the
trunk lid.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Exterior Moulding / Trim > License Plate Bracket > Component Information
> Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for License Plate Bracket: > 09-052 > Jul > 09 > Body - Rear License
Plate Trim Paint Peeling > Page 7535
4. Loosen, but do not remove, the four 8 mm nuts on each inner taillight. If the taillight is stuck to
the trunk lid, push on the studs to free it.
5. Using hand pressure only, push on the taillight tang to move the taillight as far outboard as
possible, then re-tighten the nuts.
Disclaimer
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Exterior Moulding / Trim > License Plate Bracket > Component Information
> Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for License Plate Bracket: > 09-052 > Jul > 09 > Body - Rear
License Plate Trim Paint Peeling
License Plate Bracket: All Technical Service Bulletins Body - Rear License Plate Trim Paint Peeling
09-052
(Supersedes 09-052, dated July 10, 2009, to revise the information marked by the black bars and
asterisks)
VEHICLES AFFECTED
SYMPTOM
The paint on the rear license trim is peeling around the inner taillights.
PROBABLE CAUSE
There is not enough clearance between the rear license trim and the inner taillights.
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Replace the rear license trim, and adjust the inner taillights outward to prevent contact.
Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request
consideration, and get a decision, before starting work.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Exterior Moulding / Trim > License Plate Bracket > Component Information
> Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for License Plate Bracket: > 09-052 > Jul > 09 > Body - Rear
License Plate Trim Paint Peeling > Page 7541
PARTS INFORMATION
REPAIR PROCEDURE
3. Detach the clips by pushing them through the holes in the trunk lid from the inside, then remove
the rear license trim. Take care not to scratch the
trunk lid.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Exterior Moulding / Trim > License Plate Bracket > Component Information
> Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for License Plate Bracket: > 09-052 > Jul > 09 > Body - Rear
License Plate Trim Paint Peeling > Page 7542
4. Loosen, but do not remove, the four 8 mm nuts on each inner taillight. If the taillight is stuck to
the trunk lid, push on the studs to free it.
5. Using hand pressure only, push on the taillight tang to move the taillight as far outboard as
possible, then re-tighten the nuts.
Disclaimer
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Exterior Moulding / Trim > License Plate Frame > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for License Plate Frame: > 09-052 > Jul > 09 > Body - Rear License Plate
Trim Paint Peeling
License Plate Frame: Customer Interest Body - Rear License Plate Trim Paint Peeling
09-052
(Supersedes 09-052, dated July 10, 2009, to revise the information marked by the black bars and
asterisks)
VEHICLES AFFECTED
SYMPTOM
The paint on the rear license trim is peeling around the inner taillights.
PROBABLE CAUSE
There is not enough clearance between the rear license trim and the inner taillights.
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Replace the rear license trim, and adjust the inner taillights outward to prevent contact.
Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request
consideration, and get a decision, before starting work.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Exterior Moulding / Trim > License Plate Frame > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for License Plate Frame: > 09-052 > Jul > 09 > Body - Rear License Plate
Trim Paint Peeling > Page 7551
PARTS INFORMATION
REPAIR PROCEDURE
3. Detach the clips by pushing them through the holes in the trunk lid from the inside, then remove
the rear license trim. Take care not to scratch the
trunk lid.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Exterior Moulding / Trim > License Plate Frame > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for License Plate Frame: > 09-052 > Jul > 09 > Body - Rear License Plate
Trim Paint Peeling > Page 7552
4. Loosen, but do not remove, the four 8 mm nuts on each inner taillight. If the taillight is stuck to
the trunk lid, push on the studs to free it.
5. Using hand pressure only, push on the taillight tang to move the taillight as far outboard as
possible, then re-tighten the nuts.
Disclaimer
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Exterior Moulding / Trim > License Plate Frame > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for License Plate Frame: > 09-052 > Jul > 09 > Body - Rear
License Plate Trim Paint Peeling
License Plate Frame: All Technical Service Bulletins Body - Rear License Plate Trim Paint Peeling
09-052
(Supersedes 09-052, dated July 10, 2009, to revise the information marked by the black bars and
asterisks)
VEHICLES AFFECTED
SYMPTOM
The paint on the rear license trim is peeling around the inner taillights.
PROBABLE CAUSE
There is not enough clearance between the rear license trim and the inner taillights.
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Replace the rear license trim, and adjust the inner taillights outward to prevent contact.
Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request
consideration, and get a decision, before starting work.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Exterior Moulding / Trim > License Plate Frame > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for License Plate Frame: > 09-052 > Jul > 09 > Body - Rear
License Plate Trim Paint Peeling > Page 7558
PARTS INFORMATION
REPAIR PROCEDURE
3. Detach the clips by pushing them through the holes in the trunk lid from the inside, then remove
the rear license trim. Take care not to scratch the
trunk lid.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Exterior Moulding / Trim > License Plate Frame > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for License Plate Frame: > 09-052 > Jul > 09 > Body - Rear
License Plate Trim Paint Peeling > Page 7559
4. Loosen, but do not remove, the four 8 mm nuts on each inner taillight. If the taillight is stuck to
the trunk lid, push on the studs to free it.
5. Using hand pressure only, push on the taillight tang to move the taillight as far outboard as
possible, then re-tighten the nuts.
Disclaimer
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Exterior Moulding / Trim > License Plate Frame > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > Page 7560
License Plate Frame: Service and Repair
2-door
1. From inside the trunk lid, remove the nuts securing the rear license trim (A), and push out the
clips.
2. Gently close the trunk lid, release the clip, and pull the rear license trim (A) out to detach the
clips, then remove the trim. Take care not to scratch
3. Install the trim in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
- Check if the clips are damaged or stress-whitened, and if necessary, replace them with new ones.
4-door
1. If equipped, remove the trunk lid trim. 2. Remove the bolt securing the trunk lid lock cylinder. 3.
Detach the clips by pushing it from the hole in the trunk lid (A), then remove the rear license trim
(B). Take care not to scratch the trunk lid.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Exterior Moulding / Trim > License Plate Frame > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > Page 7561
4. Install the trim in the reverse order of removal, and check if the clips are damaged or
stress-whitened, and if necessary, replace them with new
ones.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Fender > Front Fender Liner > System Information > Service and Repair >
Front Inner Fender Replacement
Front Fender Liner: Service and Repair Front Inner Fender Replacement
1. On the back of the wheel arch, remove the screws (B), and remove the front splash guard (C)
(Canada models). 2. From under the front bumper (D), remove the clip (E), securing the splash
shield (F), and front inner fender, and remove the bolt (G) and clip
3. From the wheel arch, remove the clips (I, J, K) securing the front inner fender (and splash shield)
to the body. 4. Release the hook(L) of the splash shield, then remove the front inner fender.
NOTE: To remove the clips E, H and I, pry the inner the clip up at the edge near the line M) on its
head.
2. Install the inner fender in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
- Check if the clips are damaged or stress-whitened, and if necessary, replace them with new ones.
1. A On the back of the wheel arch, remove the screws (B), and remove the front splash guard (C)
(Canada models). 2. From under the front bumper (D), remove the clip (E) securing the splash
shield (F) and front inner fender, remove the bolt (G) securing the
front strake (H), front bumper, and front inner fender, and remove the clip (I) securing the front
bumper and front inner fender.
3. From the wheel arch, remove the clips (J, K, L) securing the front inner fender (and splash
shield) to the body. 4. Release the hook M) of the splash shield, then remove the front inner fender.
NOTE: To remove the clips E, I and J, pry the inner pin up at the edge near the line (N) on its head.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Fender > Front Fender Liner > System Information > Service and Repair >
Front Inner Fender Replacement > Page 7567
2. Install the inner fender in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
- Check if the clips are damaged or stress-whitened, and if necessary, replace them with new ones.
4-door
1. On the back of the wheel arch, remove the screws (B), and remove the front splash guard (C)
(Canada models). 2. From under the front bumper (D), remove the clips (E) securing the front
bumper, splash shield (F), and front inner fender. 3. From the wheel arch, remove the clips (G, H, I)
securing the front inner fender (and splash shield) to the body. 4. Release the hook (J) of the
splash shield, then remove the front inner fender.
NOTE: To remove the clips E and G, pry the inner the clip up at the edge near the line (K) on its
head.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Fender > Front Fender Liner > System Information > Service and Repair >
Front Inner Fender Replacement > Page 7568
2. Install the inner fender in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
- Check if the clips are damaged or stress-whitened, and if necessary, replace them with new ones.
1. Remove the front inner fender as needed. 2. From the wheel arch, remove the clips.
3. Open the front door. Detach the hooks (A) securing the front fender fairing (B).
5. Install the fender fairing in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
- Check if the clips are damaged or stress-whitened, and if necessary, replace them with new ones.
2-door
4. Detach the floor wire harness clips (A). 5. Remove the bolts (B) and nuts (C), then remove the
middle cross-member gusset (D).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Frame > Cross-Member > Component Information > Service and Repair >
Middle Cross-Member Gusset Replacement > Page 7575
6. Install the gusset in the reverse order of removal. When installing the mounting bolts for the
middle cross-member gusset (A), torque the mounting
hardware in the sequence shown. If the mounting bolts are not torqued in this sequence, damage
to the quarter panel will occur.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Frame > Cross-Member > Component Information > Service and Repair >
Middle Cross-Member Gusset Replacement > Page 7576
Cross-Member: Service and Repair Rear Floor Upper Cross-Member Gusset Replacement
1. Remove the bolts, and detach the clips, then remove the left middle floor undercover (A) and
right middle undercover (B).
NOTE: To remove the clips B, pry the inner clip up at the edge near the line (C) on its head.
2. Install the undercover in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
- Check if the clips are damaged or stress-whitened, and if necessary, replace them with new ones.
NOTE:
NOTE:
- Under-floor cover.
2. Remove the bolts (A), then remove the guard brace (B).
3. Release the fuel pipe (C) from the holder (D), and remove the bolts (E), then remove the
under-floor brace (F). 4. Install the brace in the reverse order of removal.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Frame > Structural Brace > Component Information > Service and Repair >
Under-Floor Brace Replacement > Page 7586
Structural Brace: Service and Repair Rear Floor Upper Cross-Member Gusset Replacement
Subframe Replacement
NOTE:
- After loosening the subframe mounting bolts, be sure to replace them with new ones.
- When installing, align both Installation reference holes in the subframe with both reference holes
in the body using a screwdriver or tapered punch as a guide.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Grille > Component Information > Service and Repair > Front Grille
Replacement
Grille: Service and Repair Front Grille Replacement
1. Remove the front bumper. 2. Remove the screws, and remove the front grille (A) from the front
bumper (B).
3. If emblem (C) replacement is necessary, refer to emblem/sticker replacement. 4. Install the grille
in the reverse order of removal.
1. Remove the front bumper. 2. Remove the nuts, and release the hooks (A), then remove the front
grille (B) from the front bumper (C).
3. If necessary, remove the screw, and release the hooks, then remove the front emblem base (A)
from the front grille (B).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Grille > Component Information > Service and Repair > Front Grille
Replacement > Page 7594
4. If emblem (C) replacement is necessary, refer to emblem/sticker replacement. 5. Install the grille
in the reverse order of removal.
Si model
1. Remove the front bumper. 2. Remove the screws, and remove the front grille (A) from the front
bumper (B).
3. Remove the screws, then separate the front grille molding (A) and the front grille base (B).
NOTE:
- When prying with a flat-tip screwdriver, wrap it with protective tape to prevent damage.
1. Remove the front fender trim from both sides. 2. Remove the clips by carefully pulling the front
grille cover (A) up, then remove the cover by releasing the front edge of the cover from the grille
NOTE: To remove the clips, pry the inner clip up at the edge near the line (C) on its head.
3. Install the covers in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
- Check if the clips are damaged or stress-whitened, and if necessary, replace them with new ones.
KTC trim tool set SOJATP2014 * * Available through the American Honda Tool and Equipment
Program.
NOTE:
- Use the appropriate tool from the KTC trim tool set to avoid damage when prying components.
- Take care not to tear the seams or damage the seat covers.
1. Using a trim tool, push on the bottom ribs (A) of the rear hooks (B) to pull the beverage holder
(C), then release the hooks from the wire (D).
2. Release the front hooks (A) from the wire (B), then remove the beverage holder (C).
3. Install the beverage holder in the reverse order of removal. Make sure the front hooks are
installed securely to the wire, then push down on the
beverage holder and install the rear hooks into the wire securely.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Interior Moulding / Trim > Arm Rest > Component Information > Service
and Repair > Rear Seat Armrest Beverage Holder Replacement > Page 7602
Arm Rest: Service and Repair Rear Seat Armrest Replacement
NOTE: Take care not to tear the seams or damage the seat covers.
1. Remove the clip (A) from the left portion of the armrest pivot (B).
2. Slide the armrest (A) toward the driver's side of the vehicle, and remove the pivot shaft (B) from
the collar (C) on the right side of the vehicle by
3. Remove the pivot shaft (A) from the collar (B) on the left, then remove the armrest (C).
NOTE: Take care not to tear the seams or damage the seat covers.
1. Remove the armrest from the seat-back. 2. Remove the armrest beverage holder from the
armrest. 3. Release the clips (A) and hook strip (B), and pull back the armrest cover (C) all the way
around.
4. Release the armrest cover from the armrest pivot portions (A), then remove it from the pad (B).
5. Install the cover in the reverse order of removal. To prevent wrinkles when installing an armrest
cover, make sure the material is stretched evenly
over the pad before securing the hooks and hook strips.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Interior Moulding / Trim > Carpet > Component Information > Service and
Repair
Carpet Replacement
Special Tools Required
KTC trim tool set SOJATP2014 * * Available through the American Honda Tool and Equipment
Program.
2-door
SRS components are located in this area. Review the SRS component locations and the
precautions and procedures before doing repairs or service.
NOTE:
- Use the appropriate tool from the KTC trim tool set to avoid damage when prying components.
- Center console
2. Push the knob (A) back to release the hooks (B), then pull up the accelerator pedal (C).
1. Remove the lower clip (B) from the stud bolt (C) using a 6 mm hexagon socket wrench. 2.
Remove the upper clip (D) from the stud bolt using a flat-tip screwdriver.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Interior Moulding / Trim > Carpet > Component Information > Service and
Repair > Page 7608
4. Disconnect the parking brake cables from the equalizer. 5. Remove the floor mat holders (A)
from the driver's side.
6. Release the clip from the rear portion of the carpet (A). Pull out the edge of the carpet from
under both rear side trim panels (B).
7. Release the clips. Release the Velcro fasteners (A), then pull the carpet out from under the
dashboard.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Interior Moulding / Trim > Carpet > Component Information > Service and
Repair > Page 7609
8. Pull the seat harnesses (B) out through the hole in the carpet, then remove the carpet. 9. Install
the carpet in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
- Make sure the seat harnesses and parking brake cables are routed correctly.
- Check if the clips are damaged or stress-whitened, and if necessary, replace them with new ones.
- Slip the carpet under both rear side trim panels properly.
- Push the accelerator pedal hooks into place securely, and after installing, make sure the
accelerator pedal does not come off the floor by pulling it up.
Special Tools Required
KTC trim tool set SOJATP2014 * * Available through the American Honda Tool and Equipment
Program.
4-door
SRS components are located in this area. Review the SRS component locations and the
precautions and procedures before doing repairs or service.
NOTE:
- Use the appropriate tool from the KTC trim tool set to avoid damage when prying components.
- Center console
2. Push the knob (A) back to release the hooks (B), then pull up the accelerator pedal (C).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Interior Moulding / Trim > Carpet > Component Information > Service and
Repair > Page 7610
3. Remove the footrest (A).
1. Remove the lower clip (B) from the stud bolt (C) using a 6 mm hexagon socket wrench. 2.
Remove the upper clip (D) from the stud bolt using a flat-tip screwdriver.
4. Disconnect the SRS unit connector (A), antenna connector (B), and detach the wire harness
clips (C). Remove the TORX ground bolt (D) using a
7. Disconnect the parking brake cables from the equalizer. 8. Remove the floor mat holders (A)
from the driver's side.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Interior Moulding / Trim > Carpet > Component Information > Service and
Repair > Page 7612
9. Remove the clips.
10. Release the Velcro fasteners (A), then pull the carpet (B) out from under the dashboard.
11. Pull the seat harnesses (C) out through the hole in the carpet, then remove the carpet. 12.
Install the carpet in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
- Make sure the seat harnesses and parking brake cables are routed correctly.
- Check if the clips are damaged or stress-whitened, and if necessary, replace them with new ones.
- Push the accelerator pedal hooks into place securely, and after installing, make sure the
accelerator pedal does not come off the floor by pulling it up.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Interior Moulding / Trim > Console > Console Lamp > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions
Console Lamp: Diagram Information and Instructions
Circuit Schematics
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Interior Moulding / Trim > Console > Console Lamp > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7618
Circuit Schematics
Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show
current flow, from power at the top of the diagram, to ground at the bottom.
Shared Circuits
Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that
connects one circuit to another, for example, is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it
pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or
component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring, check the operation of a
component it serves. If that component works, you know the shared wiring is OK.
Connectors
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Interior Moulding / Trim > Console > Console Lamp > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7619
All in-line and junction connectors are numbered (C725, C416, etc.). Component connectors are
not numbered but are identified either by the name of the component if the component only has
one connector, or by a capital letter (A, B, C, etc.) if the component has more than one connector.
Below most connector numbers and component names are PHOTO and VIEW numbers. The
PHOTO number refers to a photo at Vehicle Level Locations that shows the connector's location on
the car. The VIEW number refers to an connector view at the Vehicle Level Connector Views that
shows the connector terminals, wire colors, connector cavity numbers, and other details.
The connector cavity numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector as seen
from either of the viewpoints. Except for the DLC (data link connector), disregard any numbers
molded into the connector housing.
Wires
Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the
stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number "2" next to the male
and female wire terminals at C554, for example, means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector
C554.
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the vehicle. Refer to the Power Distribution Diagram Set to get a more detailed
understanding of how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on. Individual circuit
schematics begin with a fuse. So if Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another
circuit share a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good
and power is available to the inoperative circuit.
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share the same
ground point.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Interior Moulding / Trim > Console > Console Lamp > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7621
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Interior Moulding / Trim > Console > Console Lamp > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7622
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Interior Moulding / Trim > Console > Console Lamp > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7623
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Interior Moulding / Trim > Console > Console Lamp > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7624
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Interior Moulding / Trim > Console > Console Lamp > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7625
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Interior Moulding / Trim > Console > Console Lamp > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7626
How to Identify Connector Terminals
Connector terminals are numbered according to the cavities they are in. The cavities are numbered
starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side or looking at the
female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the
same. All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not
the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the
connector face.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Interior Moulding / Trim > Console > Console Lamp > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7627
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown above is #6.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Interior Moulding / Trim > Console > Console Lamp > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7628
The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice
connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for
all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement
terminal availability.
On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged,
replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If
any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it.
Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the
wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the
terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to
make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a
factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS.
Use the tools from Pin Tool Set. First, check the connector that you are about to repair.
- If it has a secondary terminal lock, go to Connectors With a Secondary Lock. A secondary lock,
found on most connectors on some models, is an additional locking device on the connector
housing as a backup for the primary lock on the terminal.
- If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock.
All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the
secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the
connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities.
EXAMPLE A:
EXAMPLE B:
EXAMPLE C:
EXAMPLE D:
2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW
TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE E:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Interior Moulding / Trim > Console > Console Lamp > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7632
1. Remove the secondary locks.
2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW
TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE F:
3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of
connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary
in size and shape.
EXAMPLE A:
EXAMPLE B:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Interior Moulding / Trim > Console > Console Lamp > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7634
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE C:
EXAMPLE D:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Interior Moulding / Trim > Console > Console Lamp > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7635
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE E:
EXAMPLE F:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Interior Moulding / Trim > Console > Console Lamp > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7636
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE G:
1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct
replacement terminal based on the wire size range
NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part
number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available
through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures.
2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Interior Moulding / Trim > Console > Console Lamp > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7637
3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the
wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from
the kit.)
NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did,
cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again.
4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the
anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown
in step 3.
6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact.
- If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool
over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the
stops make contact.
- If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully
squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Interior Moulding / Trim > Console > Console Lamp > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7638
8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the following NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and
start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the
way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure
10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector.
Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too
short or when access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair.
On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged,
replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If
any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it.
1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from
Pin Tool Set.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Interior Moulding / Trim > Console > Console Lamp > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7639
2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal,
then strip about half of the insulation off that piece.
This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal.
NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will
not nick or cut off any strands of wires.
3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and
same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit
onto the stripped end of the original wire.
5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the
pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more
than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at
the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the
harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make
each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail.
7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends
of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue
NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the
stripper.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Interior Moulding / Trim > Console > Console Lamp > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7640
8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the
flare begins), and close the crimper handles far
enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click,
squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open.
9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the
wire all the way into the splice connector, and
squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until
the ratchet clicks again.
10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After
crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the
connector.
12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire(s), and shield them with
nonflammable material.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Interior Moulding / Trim > Console > Console Lamp > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7641
13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the
gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat
evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete
when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube.
NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun.
Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the
wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size)
splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select
the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in
quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures.
Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the
Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching
connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body.
1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Interior Moulding / Trim > Console > Console Lamp > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7642
2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool.
NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal
because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit.
3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal
with a replacement terminal from the appropriate
Five-Step Troubleshooting
Five-Step Troubleshooting
Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint.
Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
problem area.
Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by
tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground (certain
circuits contain a "How the Circuit Works" Diagram set). Also, trace circuits that share wiring with
the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on,
are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step
1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used
only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely
cause.
Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more
possible causes.
Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple
procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to
make tests at points that are easily accessible.
Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe
procedures.
Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire
problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure
no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur.
Test Equipment
Test Equipment
CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
1O-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up
of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to
various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is
voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital
volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is
between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM).
In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low
resistance means good continuity.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Interior Moulding / Trim > Console > Console Lamp > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7643
Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a
reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is
affecting the measurement.
To order any test equipment shown, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool
numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin.
Jumper Wire
Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder
connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire
across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse.
To order any test equipment shown, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool
numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin.
Troubleshooting Precautions
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION: -
Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
- Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles.
2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part
Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place.
CAUTION: -
Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
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Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7644
- Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-mega
ohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that
contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
Troubleshooting Tests
Troubleshooting Tests
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt
ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest
"OHMS" range.
2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you
want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
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Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7645
4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or
no reading (zero), means good continuity.
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem. Circuits must be operating when checking
voltage drop.
1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts
range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage
is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM
voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Interior Moulding / Trim > Console > Console Lamp > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7646
Console Lamp: Electrical Diagrams
Diagram 114-0
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Interior Moulding / Trim > Console > Console Lamp > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7647
Diagram 114-1
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Interior Moulding / Trim > Console > Console Lamp > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7648
Diagram 114-2
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Interior Moulding / Trim > Console > Console Lamp > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7649
Diagram 114-3
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Interior Moulding / Trim > Console > Console Lamp > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7650
Diagram 114-4
Diagrams: Other diagrams referred to by number (See Diagram ##-#, etc.) within these diagrams
can be found at Diagrams by Number. See: Diagrams/Electrical Diagrams/Diagrams By Number
Locations: Location photographs (references to PHOTOS) referred to within these diagrams can be
found at Locations by Photo Number. See: Locations/Component Locations/Locations By Photo
Number
Connector Views: Connector terminal views (references to VIEWS) referred to within these
diagrams can be found at Connector Views by View Number. See: Diagrams/Connector
Views/Connector Views By View Number
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Interior Moulding / Trim > Dashboard / Instrument Panel > Air Bag(s)
Arming and Disarming > System Information > Service and Repair
General Precautions
Please read the following precautions carefully before performing the airbag system service. If the
instructions described are not properly followed, the airbags could accidentally deploy and cause
damage or injuries.
- Except when performing electrical inspections, always turn the ignition switch OFF, disconnect
the negative cable from the battery, then wait for 3 minutes before starting work.
NOTE: The SRS memory is not cleared even if the ignition switch is turned OFF or the battery
cables are disconnected from the battery.
- Use replacement parts which are manufactured to the same standards and quality as the original
parts. Do not install used SRS parts. Use only new parts when making SRS repairs.
- Carefully inspect any SRS part before you install it. Do not install any part that shows signs of
being dropped or improperly handled, such as dents, cracks or deformation.
- Before disconnecting the SRS unit connectors, always disconnect the appropriate SRS parts
connectors.
- Use only a digital multimeter to check the system. If it is not a Honda multimeter, make sure its
output is 10 mA (0.01 A) or less when switched to the lowest value in the ohmmeter range. A tester
with a higher output could cause accidental deployment and possible injury.
- The original audio and navigation system has a coded theft protection circuit. Make sure you have
the anti-theft codes for the audio system or the navigation system (if equipped), then write down
the audio presets before disconnecting the negative cable from the battery.
- Before returning the vehicle to the customer, enter the anti-theft codes for the audio system or the
navigation system (if equipped), then enter the audio presets; set the clock.
Steering-related Precautions
- Misalignment of the cable reel could cause an open in the wiring, making the SRS system, remote
steering wheel controls, and the horn inoperative. Center the cable reel whenever you do the
following. -
- If the cable reel shows any signs of damage, replace it with a new one. For example, if it does not
rotate smoothly, replace the cable reel.
Do not disassemble an airbag. It has no serviceable parts. Once an airbag has been deployed, it
cannot be repaired or reused.
For temporary storage of an airbag during service, observe the following precautions.
- Store the removed airbag with the pad surface up. Never put anything on the airbag.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Interior Moulding / Trim > Dashboard / Instrument Panel > Air Bag(s)
Arming and Disarming > System Information > Service and Repair > Page 7655
- To prevent damage to the airbag, keep it away from any oil, grease, detergent, or water.
- Store the removed airbag on a secure, flat surface away from any high heat source (exceeding
200 °F/93 °C)
- Do not position yourself in front of the airbag during removal, inspection, or replacement.
- The side curtain airbag inflator assembly is a long, jointed part containing an inflator (A), a flexible
bag (B), and brackets (C). When removing or installing the side curtain airbag assembly, never do
the following items: -
- Turn the ignition switch OFF, disconnect the negative cable from the battery then wait for 3
minutes before starting installation or replacement of the SRS unit, or disconnecting the connectors
from the SRS unit.
- Be careful not to bump or impact the SRS unit, front impact sensors, side impact sensors, or rear
safing sensor whenever the ignition switch is ON (II), or for at least 3 minutes after the ignition
switch is turned OFF.
- During installation or replacement, be careful not to bump (by impact wrench, hammer, etc.) the
area around the SRS unit, front impact sensors, the side impact sensors, or rear safing sensor. The
airbags could accidentally deploy and cause damage or injury.
- After a collision where a front airbag, side airbag or a seat belt tensioner, seat belt buckle
tensioner deployed, go to Component Replacement/Inspection After Deployment. See: Restraint
Systems/Air Bag Systems/Service and Repair After a collision where the airbags did not deploy,
inspect for any damage or any deformation on the SRS unit, front impact sensors, side impact
sensors, or rear safing sensor. If there is any damage, replace the SRS unit and/or the sensors.
- Do not disassemble the SRS unit, front impact sensors, side impact sensors, driver's seat position
sensor, front passenger's weight sensors, or rear safing sensor.
- Be sure the SRS unit, front impact sensors, side impact sensors, and rear safing sensor are
installed securely with the mounting bolts torqued to 9.8 N.m (1.0 kgf.m, 7.2 lbf.ft). Whenever you
remove or replace the SRS unit, safing sensor, or all impact sensors, always install the
components with new bolts.
- Do not spill water or oil on the SRS unit or the side impact sensors.
Wiring Precautions
Some of the SRS wiring can be identified by special yellow outer covering, and the SRS
connectors can be identified by their yellow color. Observe the instructions.
- Never attempt to modify, splice, or repair SRS wiring. If there is an open or damage in SRS
wiring, replace the harness.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Interior Moulding / Trim > Dashboard / Instrument Panel > Air Bag(s)
Arming and Disarming > System Information > Service and Repair > Page 7657
- Be sure to install the harness wires so they do not get pinched or interfere with other parts.
- Make sure all SRS ground locations are clean, and grounds are securely fastened for optimum
metal-to-metal contact. Poor grounds can cause intermittent problems that are difficult to diagnose.
- When using electrical test equipment, insert the probe of the tester into the wire side of the
connector. Do not insert the probe of the tester into the terminal side of the connector, and do not
tamper with the connector.
- Use specified service connectors in troubleshooting. Using improper tools could cause an error in
inspection due to poor metal-to-metal contact.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Interior Moulding / Trim > Dashboard / Instrument Panel > Air Bag(s)
Arming and Disarming > System Information > Service and Repair > Page 7658
Spring-loaded Lock Connector
Disconnecting
To release the lock, pull the spring-loaded sleeve (A) toward the stop (B) while holding the opposite
half of the connector. Then pull the connector halves apart. Be sure to pull on the sleeve and not
on the connector.
Connecting
To reconnect, hold the pawl-side connector, and press on the back of the sleeve-side connector in
the direction shown. As the two connector halves are pressed together, the sleeve (A) is pushed
back by the pawl (B). Do not touch the sleeve.
Disconnecting
To release the lock, pull the spring-loaded sleeve (A) toward the stop (B) while holding the opposite
half of the connector. Then pull the connector halves apart. Be sure to pull on the sleeve and not
on the connector half.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Interior Moulding / Trim > Dashboard / Instrument Panel > Air Bag(s)
Arming and Disarming > System Information > Service and Repair > Page 7659
Connecting
Hold both connector halves, and press them firmly together until the projection (A) of the
sleeve-side connector clicks.
NOTE:
- To prevent damaging of the connector cavity, insert the short canceller straight into the cavity
from the terminal side.
- Before installing the short canceller, wash it with electric contact cleaner, then dry it with
compressed air.
When SRS unit connectors A (28P) or B (28P) are disconnected, a short circuit is created in the
connector by its own function to prevent an airbag deployment. The circuit may need to be open
sometimes when diagnosis is done on the system. Insert the short canceller (070AZ-SAA0100) in
the specified cavities when it is necessary to keep the circuit open for diagnosis.
Terminal numbers are shown from the wire side of the female terminals. Insert the short
canceller(s) into the cavities on the terminal side of the connector.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Interior Moulding / Trim > Dashboard / Instrument Panel > Air Bag(s)
Arming and Disarming > System Information > Service and Repair > Page 7660
Seats with Side Airbags
Seats with side airbags have a "SIDE AIRBAG" label on the seat-back.
- When cleaning, use a damp cloth to clean the seat. Do not soak the seat with liquid, and do not
spray steam on the seat.
- Do not repair a torn or frayed seat-back cover. Replace the seat-back cover.
- After a collision where the side airbag was deployed, replace the side airbag and seat frame with
new parts. If the seat-back cushion is split, it must be replaced.
- Never put aftermarket accessories on the seat (covers, pads, seat heaters, lights, etc.).
Turn the ignition switch OFF disconnect the negative cable from the battery, then wait for 3 minutes
before starting the following procedures.
- Before disconnecting the cable reel 4P connector (1), disconnect the driver's airbag 4P connector
(2).
- Before disconnecting SRS unit connector B from SRS unit, disconnect both seat belt tensioner 4P
connectors and both seat belt buckle tensioner 4P connectors (3, 4, 5, 6).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Interior Moulding / Trim > Dashboard / Instrument Panel > Air Bag(s)
Arming and Disarming > System Information > Service and Repair > Page 7661
1. Turn the ignition switch OFF. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery, then wait for 3
minutes.
Driver's Airbag
2. Remove the access panel (A) from the steering wheel/then disconnect the driver's airbag 4P
connector (B) from the cable reel.
3. Remove the lower glove box, then disconnect the front passenger's airbag 4P connector (A)
from the dashboard wire harness.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Interior Moulding / Trim > Dashboard / Instrument Panel > Air Bag(s)
Arming and Disarming > System Information > Service and Repair > Page 7662
Side Airbag
4. Disconnect both side airbag 2P connectors (A) from the floor wire harness.
5. Remove the headliner. 6. Disconnect both floor wire harness 2P connectors (A) from the side
curtain airbags.
7. Remove the seat belt lower anchor. Disconnect both floor wire harness 4P connectors (A) from
the seat belt tensioners.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Interior Moulding / Trim > Dashboard / Instrument Panel > Air Bag(s)
Arming and Disarming > System Information > Service and Repair > Page 7663
Seat Belt Buckle Tensioner
8. Disconnect both floor wire harness 4P connectors (A) from the seat belt buckle tensioner.
SRS Unit
9. Disconnect both seat belt tensioner connectors and both seat belt buckle tensioner connectors.
Remove the center console. Disconnect SRS unit
connector A (28P) and SRS unit connector B (28P) from the SRS unit.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Interior Moulding / Trim > Glove Compartment > Glove Compartment Lock
> Component Information > Service and Repair
SRS components are located in this area. Review the SRS component locations, 2-door, 4-door
and the precautions and procedures before doing repairs or service.
NOTE: Take care not to scratch the dashboard and related parts.
1. While holding the glove box, release the glove box stop on each side from the dashboard by
pushing them inside. 2. Remove the screws, then remove the glove box striker (A).
Headliner Removal/Installation
KTC trim tool set SOJATP2014 * * Available through the American Honda Tool and Equipment
Program.
SRS components are located in this area. Review the SRS component locations, 2-door, 4-door
and the precautions and procedures before doing repairs or service.
NOTE:
- Use the appropriate tool from the KTC trim tool set to avoid damage when prying components.
1. Make sure you have the anti-theft codes for the audio system or the navigation system (if
equipped), then write down the audio presets. 2. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery,
then wait for 3 minutes before starting work. 3. Remove these items:
- 2-door: -
- Ceiling light
- 4-door: -
- Ceiling light
4. From both sides, release the tabs (A) from the bracket (B) using a trim tool of the sunvisor cap
(C) from the bracket.
5. Remove the sunvisor cap (A) from the bracket (B). Turn the cap, and remove it.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Interior Moulding / Trim > Headliner > Component Information > Service
and Repair > Page 7671
6. From both sides, remove the sunvisor (A).
1. Remove the sunvisor from the body and holder (B). 2. Remove the TORX screws using a TORX
T25 bit. 3. Remove the sunvisor from the body.
7. Push the hook (A) using a flat-tip screwdriver, and turn the holder (B) 90°, then pull it out.
1. Remove the lenses (B). 2. Remove the bolts. 3. If equipped, release the four tabs (C), then pull
out the moonroof switch (D) or the navigation microphone. 4. Disconnect the front individual map
light connector (E). If equipped, disconnect the moonroof switch connector (F) and the navigation
10. Without moonroof: Remove the driver's dashboard undercover. 11. Without moonroof: From
under the dash, disconnect the roof wire harness connector (A), and detach the harness clip (B).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Interior Moulding / Trim > Headliner > Component Information > Service
and Repair > Page 7673
12. Remove the center console. 13. Slide the front seat all the way back, and recline the seat-back
fully. 14. 4-door: Remove the bolts securing the parking brake base frame (A) and lay it down as
needed.
1. Remove the front door opening seals (B), and rear door opening seals (C) from each roof
portion. 2. 2-door: Release the clips (D). 3. With the help of an assistant, detach the rear clips (E)
by pulling the rear portion of the headliner down. 4. With moonroof: Release the Velcro fasteners
(F) by lowering the headliner. 5. With moonroof: Release the hooks (G) of the moonroof by moving
the headliner rearward.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Interior Moulding / Trim > Headliner > Component Information > Service
and Repair > Page 7674
16. Lower the front of the headliner below the steering wheel. Rotate the liner, and pull it along with
the roof wire harness (I) out through the
passenger's front door. Do not bend the liner. Bending the liner will crease and damage it.
17. If necessary, remove the cushion tape (A, B) fastening the roof wire harness (C) to the
headliner (D), then remove them from the headliner.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Interior Moulding / Trim > Headliner > Component Information > Service
and Repair > Page 7675
18. If necessary, remove the side curtain airbag mounting bolt (A) and grab handle bracket
mounting bolts (B), then remove the grab handle bracket
19. Install the headliner in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
- If the side curtain airbag has deployed, replace the headliner and removed trim pieces with new
ones.
- To prevent the side curtain airbags from deploying improperly and possibly causing injury, inspect
removed pieces and replace them if they have any of these types of damage: -
- Any damages around the grab handle holes (C) or sunvisor holes in the headliner
- When installing the grab handle, push on the handle against the bracket (J) until the clips (K)
snap into place securely.
- Check if the clips are damaged or stress-whitened, and if necessary, replace them with new ones.
- Check that both sides of the headliner are securely attached to the trim.
- When reinstalling the headliner through the front passenger's door opening, be careful not to fold
or bend it. Also, be careful not to scratch the body.
- Enter the anti-theft codes for the audio system or the navigation system (if equipped), then enter
the audio presets.
- Check for any DTCs that may have been set during repairs, and clear them.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Interior Moulding / Trim > Headliner > Component Information > Service
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Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Interior Moulding / Trim > Passenger Assist Handle > Component
Information > Service and Repair
Passenger Assist Handle: Service and Repair
KTC trim tool set SOJATP2014 * * Available through the American Honda Tool and Equipment
Program.
NOTE: Use the appropriate tool from the KTC trim tool set to avoid damage when prying
components.
1. Lower the grab handle (A), then pull out the stoppers (B).
2. While pinching the clips (A), release the hooks (B), then remove the grab handle (C).
3. Remove all of the clips (A) using a pair of pliers by pinching its hooks.
4. If the side curtain airbag has deployed, replace the grab handle with a new one.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Interior Moulding / Trim > Passenger Assist Handle > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Page 7681
5. If the side curtain airbag has not deployed, to prevent the side curtain airbags from deploying
improperly and possibly causing injury, inspect
removed pieces and replace them if they have any of these types of damage: -
6. Install the clips (A) to the grab handle (B), then install the stoppers (C) fully into the clips.
7. Position the grab handle (A) on the bracket (B), and push on the grab handle until the clips (C)
snap into place securely.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Interior Moulding / Trim > Rear Shelf > Component Information > Service
and Repair
KTC trim tool set SOJATP2014 * * Available through the Honda Tool and Equipment Program;
SRS components are located in this area. Review the SRS component locations.
NOTE:
- Take care not to bend or scratch the rear shelf and trim.
- Use the appropriate tool from the KTC trim tool set to avoid damage when prying components.
- Rear seat-back
2. From the trunk compartment, disconnect the high mount brake light connector (A).
3. From the trunk compartment, release the four white clips (A) by tapping on them.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Interior Moulding / Trim > Rear Shelf > Component Information > Service
and Repair > Page 7685
4. Lift the rear shelf (A) upward to detach the remaining seven clips, and release the hook (B) and
pin (C) from the holes on the body.
5. Release each anchor rod (D) out through the hole in the rear shelf, and pull both rear seat belts
(E) and rear center seat belt (F) out through the slits
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Interior Moulding / Trim > Rear Shelf > Component Information > Service
and Repair > Page 7686
(G) in the rear shelf.
6. Install the shelf in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
- Check if the clips are damaged or stress-whitened, and if necessary, replace them with new ones.
- When installing the rear shelf, slip the rear seat belt through the slit and the rear center seat belt
into the lid opening in the rear shelf.
- Make sure the high mount brake light connector is plugged in properly.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Interior Moulding / Trim > Scuff Plate > Component Information > Service
and Repair
KTC trim tool set SOJATP2014 * * Available through the American Honda Tool and Equipment
Program.
NOTE:
- Use the appropriate tool from the KTC trim tool set to avoid damage when prying components.
1. Driver's side: Remove the front seat belt lower anchor. 2. Driver's side: Remove the footrest. 3.
Driver's side: Remove the front side cap from the door sill trim, and remove the opener lock
cylinder and screw. 4. Detach the hooks (A) and tabs (B) from the kick panel (C) and rear side trim
panel (D), and pull the door sill trim (E) up by hand to detach the
6. Pull the left kick panel (A) or the right kick panel (B) back by hand to detach the clips, then
remove it.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Interior Moulding / Trim > Scuff Plate > Component Information > Service
and Repair > Page 7691
7. Install the trim in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
- Check if the clips are damaged or stress-whitened, and if necessary, replace them with new ones.
KTC trim tool set SOJATP2014 * * Available through the American Honda Tool and Equipment
Program.
NOTE:
- Use the appropriate tool from the KTC trim tool set to avoid damage when prying components.
1. Driver's side: Remove the footrest. 2. Driver's side: Remove the front side cap from the front
door sill trim, and remove the opener lock cylinder and screw. 3. Detach the hooks (A) and tabs (B)
from the kick panel (C) and B-pillar lower trim (D), and pull the front door sill trim (E) up by hand to
detach
6. Install the trim in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
- Check if the clips are damaged or stress-whitened, and if necessary, replace them with new ones.
KTC trim tool set SOJATP2014 * * Available through the American Honda Tool and Equipment
Program.
NOTE:
- Use the appropriate tool from the KTC trim tool set to avoid damage when prying components.
1. Detach the hook (A) and tab (B) from the B-pillar lower trim (C), and pull the rear door sill trim
(D) up by hand to detach the clips, then remove it.
2. Pull the rear seat cushion (A) up to release the hook (B). While pulling the cushion up, detach
the clips and remove the rear door sill trim (C) from
3. Pull out the rear door opening seal (A) from the trim hooks (B) and around the rear door opening
flange, then remove the seal.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Interior Moulding / Trim > Scuff Plate > Component Information > Service
and Repair > Page 7695
4. Install the trim in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
- Check if the clips are damaged or stress-whitened, and if necessary, replace them with new ones.
Sun Visor: Customer Interest Interior - Sun Visor Comes Apart/Splits When Moved
08-023
*REVISION SUMMARY
^ Under VEHICLES AFFECTED, models were added and VIN ranges were changed.
PROBLEM
VEHICLES AFFECTED
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Interior Moulding / Trim > Sun Visor > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Sun Visor: > 08-023 > Oct > 10 > Interior - Sun Visor Comes Apart/Splits When
Moved > Page 7704
PARTS INFORMATION
Operation Number: 840100 (left sunvisor) 840130 (right sunvisor) 8401B1 (both visors)
Flat Rate Time: 0.1 hour (per sunvisor)
REPAIR PROCEDURE
^ Refer to steps 3 thru 5 on page 20-133 of the 2006-2010 Civic Service Manual, or
^ Online, enter keyword HEADLINER, select Headliner Removal/Installation from the list, and do
only steps 3 thru 5 of that procedure.
Disclaimer
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Interior Moulding / Trim > Sun Visor > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Sun Visor: > 08-023 > Oct > 10 > Interior - Sun Visor Comes
Apart/Splits When Moved
Sun Visor: All Technical Service Bulletins Interior - Sun Visor Comes Apart/Splits When Moved
08-023
*REVISION SUMMARY
^ Under VEHICLES AFFECTED, models were added and VIN ranges were changed.
PROBLEM
VEHICLES AFFECTED
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Interior Moulding / Trim > Sun Visor > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Sun Visor: > 08-023 > Oct > 10 > Interior - Sun Visor Comes
Apart/Splits When Moved > Page 7710
PARTS INFORMATION
Operation Number: 840100 (left sunvisor) 840130 (right sunvisor) 8401B1 (both visors)
Flat Rate Time: 0.1 hour (per sunvisor)
REPAIR PROCEDURE
^ Refer to steps 3 thru 5 on page 20-133 of the 2006-2010 Civic Service Manual, or
^ Online, enter keyword HEADLINER, select Headliner Removal/Installation from the list, and do
only steps 3 thru 5 of that procedure.
Disclaimer
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Interior Moulding / Trim > Trim Panel > Component Information > Service
and Repair > Trim Removal/Installation - Pillar Areas
Trim Panel: Service and Repair Trim Removal/Installation - Pillar Areas
KTC trim tool set SOJATP2014 * * Available through the American Honda Tool and Equipment
Program.
A-Pillar Trim
SRS components are located in this area. Review the SRS component locations, 2-door, 4-door
and the precautions, and procedures before doing repairs or service.
NOTE:
- Follow the A-pillar trim installation procedure carefully; improper installation could cause the side
curtain airbag to deploy improperly and possibly cause injury.
- Use the appropriate tool from the KTC trim tool set to avoid damage when prying components.
- The upper clip in the A-pillar trim (A) consists of a grommet (B) and a pin (C). The grommet
expanded with the pin secures it to the body panel (D). The projections (E) on the pin is broken
during removal, so the clip must be replaced with a new one when the trim is reinstalled.
1. Pull the door opening seal away from the A-pillar as needed. 2. Hit the upper clip in the A-pillar
trim (A) with a rubber mallet. The clip is under the "SIDE CURTAIN AIRBAG" mark (B). Hitting the
clip
breaks the projections (C) on the pin (D) and pushes it into the grommet (E) and against the body
(F). The grommet becomes narrow.
NOTE: The clip must be replaced with a new one when the A-pillar trim is reinstalled.
3. Pull the front of the A-pillar trim (A) back by hand to remove the upper clip (B) from the body (C).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Interior Moulding / Trim > Trim Panel > Component Information > Service
and Repair > Trim Removal/Installation - Pillar Areas > Page 7715
4. Pull the A-pillar trim (A) by hand to detach the clips. Pull the trim up from the dashboard (B), then
remove it.
5. If the side curtain airbag has deployed, replace the A-pillar trim and all clips on the trim with new
ones. 6. If the side curtain airbag has not deployed, remove the upper clip (A) from the removed
A-pillar trim (B) and discard it. Then check the trim:
- To prevent the side curtain airbags from deploying improperly and possibly causing injury, inspect
the A-pillar trim and replace it if it has any
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Interior Moulding / Trim > Trim Panel > Component Information > Service
and Repair > Trim Removal/Installation - Pillar Areas > Page 7716
7. Before installing the A-pillar trim (A), whether replaced or reinstalled, temporarily remove a new
upper clip (B).
8. Check the overlap between the headliner and A-pillar trim, and if necessary, adjust it. 9.
Carefully install a new upper clip (A) to the A-pillar trim (B). Be sure that the grommet (C) is nearest
to the top of the pin (D) as shown.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Interior Moulding / Trim > Trim Panel > Component Information > Service
and Repair > Trim Removal/Installation - Pillar Areas > Page 7717
10. Reinstall the A-pillar trim (A).
1. Insert the bottom of the trim into the dashboard (B). 2. Place the trim over the A-pillar (C), and fit
its upper clip (D), and lower clips (E), and pins (F) into the holes (G) in the A-pillar, then lightly
NOTE: -
Make sure the side curtain airbag isn't tucked down under the clips and ribs.
- Push lightly on the upper clip. If you push too hard, the clip will be damaged, and it will not hold
the trim properly.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Interior Moulding / Trim > Trim Panel > Component Information > Service
and Repair > Trim Removal/Installation - Pillar Areas > Page 7718
KTC trim tool set SOJATP2014 * * Available through the American Honda Tool and Equipment
Program.
SRS components are located in this area. Review the SRS component locations and the
precautions and procedures before doing repairs or service.
NOTE:
- Use the appropriate tool from the KTC trim tool set to avoid damage when prying components.
1. Remove these items:
2. Slide the front seat forward fully. 3. Remove the B-pillar lower trim (A).
1. Pull the upper portion of the trim back to release the upper hooks (B). 2. Detach the lower clips
by pulling the bottom of the trim back by hand.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Interior Moulding / Trim > Trim Panel > Component Information > Service
and Repair > Trim Removal/Installation - Pillar Areas > Page 7719
4. Remove the front seat belt lower anchor. 5. Pull the bottom of the B-pillar upper trim (A) back by
hand to detach the lower hooks (B).
6. Detach the upper clip by pulling the top of the B-pillar upper trim (A). Pull the trim down to
release the upper hooks (B) from the side curtain
7. Pass the front seat belt (A) lower anchor out through a hole in the slider (B), then remove the
B-pillar upper trim (C).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Interior Moulding / Trim > Trim Panel > Component Information > Service
and Repair > Trim Removal/Installation - Pillar Areas > Page 7720
8. Remove the slider (A) from the B-pillar upper trim (B).
9. Install the trim in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
- Check if the clips (A) are damaged or stress-whitened, and if necessary, replace them with new
ones.
- If the side curtain airbag has deployed, replace the B-pillar upper and lower trim and all clips on
the trim with new ones.
- To prevent the side curtain airbags from deploying improperly and possibly causing injury, inspect
the trim and replace it if it has any of these types of damage: -
Any cracks or deformations in the B-pillar upper trim (B) and the upper hooks (C), and any
stress-whitening in the upper part of the trim
- Any cracks or deformations in the B-pillar lower trim (D), and any breakages in the part (E) fitted
with the B-pillar upper trim
- Make sure the top of the trim overlaps with the headliner correctly.
- Make sure the pin (G) on the front seat belt shoulder anchor adjuster (H) and the hole (I) on the
back of the slider are engaged when installing the B-pillar upper trim.
- Make sure the trim hook is installed into the side curtain airbag B-pillar bracket securely.
- Before installing the anchor bolt, make sure there are no twists or kinks in the seat belt.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Interior Moulding / Trim > Trim Panel > Component Information > Service
and Repair > Trim Removal/Installation - Pillar Areas > Page 7721
Slider engagement with shoulder anchor adjuster
KTC trim tool set SOJATP2014 * * Available through the American Honda Tool and Equipment
Program.
SRS components are located in this area. Review the SRS component locations and the
precautions and procedures before doing repairs or service.
NOTE:
- Follow the quarter pillar trim installation procedure carefully; improper installation could cause the
side curtain airbag to deploy improperly and possibly cause injury.
- Use the appropriate tool from the KTC trim tool set to avoid damage when prying components.
- The B-pillar upper clip (A) in the quarter pillar trim (B) consists of a grommet (C) and a pin (D).
The grommet expanded with the pin secures it to the body panel (E). The projections (F) on the pin
is broken during removal, so the clip must be replaced with a new one when the trim is reinstalled.
- The C-pillar upper clip (G) under the airbag lid (H) consists of a resin grommet (I) and a metal pin
(J). The groove (K) in the grommet secures it to the body panel. The shoulder (L) on the grommet
is broken during removal, so the grommet must be replaced with a new one when the trim is
reinstalled.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Interior Moulding / Trim > Trim Panel > Component Information > Service
and Repair > Trim Removal/Installation - Pillar Areas > Page 7722
1. Remove these items:
2. Remove the front seat belt upper anchor. 3. Lower the coat hanger (A), pry off the lid (B) with a
trim tool, then remove the screw.
4. Release the hooks (A), then remove the rear window harness cap (B) from the quarter pillar trim
(C).
5. Pull the door opening seal away from the B-pillar as needed. 6. Hit the surface of the quarter
pillar trim (A) just upon the upper clip with a rubber mallet. Hitting the trim surface breaks the
projections (B) on the
pin (C) and pushes it into the grommet (D) and against the body (E). The grommet becomes
narrow.
NOTE: The clip must be replaced with a new one when the quarter pillar trim is reinstalled.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Interior Moulding / Trim > Trim Panel > Component Information > Service
and Repair > Trim Removal/Installation - Pillar Areas > Page 7723
7. Hit the surface of the airbag lid (A) just upon the upper clip with a rubber mallet. The clip is
halfway between the "SIDE CURTAIN AIRBAG"
mark (B) and the rear window. Hitting the lid surface breaks the shoulder (C) on the grommet (D)
and pushes the pin (E) and grommet against the body (F).
NOTE: -
The clip must be replaced with a new one when the quarter pillar trim is reinstalled.
- Do not hit the lower side of the airbag lid, or it will be folded and stress-whitened at the middle of
its own. It is very delicate part.
1. Detach and release the clips (B, C, D) from the body (E) and remove the pin (F) from the
grommet (G) remaining in the body by pulling the
trim back.
2. Lower the trim to release the upper edge of it from the headliner (H).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Interior Moulding / Trim > Trim Panel > Component Information > Service
and Repair > Trim Removal/Installation - Pillar Areas > Page 7724
9. Remove the grommet from the body.
NOTE: The grommet must be replaced with a new one because the it is damaged during removal.
10. If the side curtain airbag has deployed, replace the quarter pillar trim and all clips on the trim
with new ones. 11. If the side curtain airbag has not deployed, remove the clip (A) from the
removed quarter pillar trim (B) and discard it. Then check the trim:
- To prevent the side curtain airbags from deploying improperly and possibly causing injury, inspect
the quarter pillar trim and replace it if it has any of these types of damage: -
- If any of the lower clips (G, H) are damaged or stress-whitened, replace them.
(D).
13. Check the overlap between the headliner and quarter pillar trim, and if necessary, adjust it. 14.
Carefully reinstall the clip (A) to the quarter pillar trim (B), and the grommet (G) on the pin (D):
- Be sure that the grommet (E) is nearest to the top of the pin (F) as shown.
- Seat the pin with the grommet on the quarter pillar trim as shown.
1. Fit the upper edge of the trim to the headliner (B). 2. Place the trim over the center/C-pillar (C),
and fit its B-pillar upper clip (D), C-pillar upper clip (E), and all of the other clips (F, G) into holes
(H) in the body, then lightly push the trim into place.
NOTE: -
Make sure the side curtain airbag isn't tucked down under the clips and ribs.
- Apply pressure to the areas of the trim just upon the quarter/C-pillar upper clips until these clip
fittings are felt. If you push too hard, the clip will be damaged, and it will not hold the trim properly.
- Make sure the upper clip portions of the trim don't come off the body by tugging on the trim back.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Interior Moulding / Trim > Trim Panel > Component Information > Service
and Repair > Trim Removal/Installation - Pillar Areas > Page 7726
16. Reinstall the rear window harness cap (A) to the quarter pillar trim (B) until its hooks (C) snap
into place securely.
KTC trim tool set SOJATP2014 * * Available through the American Honda Tool and Equipment
Program.
SRS components are located in this area. Review the SRS component locations and the
precautions and procedures before doing repairs or service.
NOTE:
- Follow the C-pillar trim installation procedure carefully; improper installation could cause the side
curtain airbag to deploy improperly and possibly cause injury.
- Use the appropriate tool from the KTC trim tool set to avoid damage when prying components.
- The front clip in the C-pillar trim (A) consists of a grommet (B) and a pin (C). The grommet
expanded with the pin secures it to the body panel (D). The projections (E) on the pin is broken
during removal, so the clip must be replaced with a new one when the trim is reinstalled.
2. Fold the seat-back forward. 3. Hit the front clip in the C-pillar trim (A) a rubber mallet. The clip is
near the triangle mark (B). Hitting the clip breaks the projections (C) on the
pin (D) and pushes it into the grommet (E) and against the body (F). The grommet becomes
narrow.
NOTE: The clip must be replaced with a new when the C-pillar trim is reinstalled.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Interior Moulding / Trim > Trim Panel > Component Information > Service
and Repair > Trim Removal/Installation - Pillar Areas > Page 7728
4. Pull the front of the C-pillar trim (A) back by hand to remove the front clip (B) from the body (C).
5. Pull the C-pillar trim (A) by hand to detach the clips, then pull the trim up from the rear shelf (B).
6. If the side curtain airbag has deployed, replace the C-pillar trim and all clips on the trim with new
ones. 7. If the side curtain airbag has not deployed, remove the front clip (A) from the removed
C-pillar trim (B) and discard it. Then check the trim:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Interior Moulding / Trim > Trim Panel > Component Information > Service
and Repair > Trim Removal/Installation - Pillar Areas > Page 7729
- To prevent the side curtain airbags from deploying improperly and possibly causing injury, inspect
the C-pillar trim and replace it if it has any of these types of damage: -
Any cracks, deformations, or stress-whitening in the C-pillar trim
- Check if the rear clips (E) are damaged or stress-whitened, and if necessary, replace them with
new ones.
8. Before installing the C-pillar trim (A), whether replaced or reinstalled, temporarily remove new
front clip (B).
9. Check the overlap between the headliner and C-pillar trim, and if necessary, adjust it.
10. Carefully reinstall a new front clip (A) to the C-pillar trim (B). Be sure that the grommet (C) is
nearest to the top of the pin (D) as shown.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Interior Moulding / Trim > Trim Panel > Component Information > Service
and Repair > Trim Removal/Installation - Pillar Areas > Page 7730
11. Reinstall the C-pillar trim (A).
1. Insert the bottom of the trim into the rear shelf (B). 2. Place the trim over the C-pillar (C), and fit
its front clip (D) and rear clips (E) into holes in the C-pillar, then lightly push the trim into place.
NOTE: -
Make sure the side curtain airbag isn't tucked down under the clips and ribs.
- Push lightly on the front clip. If you push too hard, the clip will be damaged, and it will not hold the
trim properly.
Trim Panel: Service and Repair Trim Removal/Installation - Rear Side Area
KTC trim tool set SOJATP2014 * * Available through the American Honda Tool and Equipment
Program.
2-door
SRS components are located in this area. Review the SRS component locations and the
precautions and procedures before doing repairs or service.
NOTE:
- Use the appropriate tool from the KTC trim tool set to avoid damage when prying components.
- Rear seat-back: -
Fold down
pillar trim (F) and the rear shelf extension (G), then remove the trim panel.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Interior Moulding / Trim > Trim Panel > Component Information > Service
and Repair > Trim Removal/Installation - Pillar Areas > Page 7732
4. Install the panel in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
- Check if the clips are damaged or stress-whitened, and if necessary, replace them with new ones.
KTC trim tool set SOJATP2014 * * Available through the American Honda Tool and Equipment
Program.
NOTE:
- Use the appropriate tool from the KTC trim tool set to avoid damage when prying components.
1. Driver's side: Remove the front seat belt lower anchor. 2. Driver's side: Remove the footrest. 3.
Driver's side: Remove the front side cap from the door sill trim, and remove the opener lock
cylinder and screw. 4. Detach the hooks (A) and tabs (B) from the kick panel (C) and rear side trim
panel (D), and pull the door sill trim (E) up by hand to detach the
6. Pull the left kick panel (A) or the right kick panel (B) back by hand to detach the clips, then
remove it.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Interior Moulding / Trim > Trim Panel > Component Information > Service
and Repair > Trim Removal/Installation - Pillar Areas > Page 7735
7. Install the trim in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
- Check if the clips are damaged or stress-whitened, and if necessary, replace them with new ones.
KTC trim tool set SOJATP2014 * * Available through the American Honda Tool and Equipment
Program.
NOTE:
- Use the appropriate tool from the KTC trim tool set to avoid damage when prying components.
1. Driver's side: Remove the footrest. 2. Driver's side: Remove the front side cap from the front
door sill trim, and remove the opener lock cylinder and screw. 3. Detach the hooks (A) and tabs (B)
from the kick panel (C) and B-pillar lower trim (D), and pull the front door sill trim (E) up by hand to
detach
6. Install the trim in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
- Check if the clips are damaged or stress-whitened, and if necessary, replace them with new ones.
KTC trim tool set SOJATP2014 * * Available through the American Honda Tool and Equipment
Program.
NOTE:
- Use the appropriate tool from the KTC trim tool set to avoid damage when prying components.
1. Detach the hook (A) and tab (B) from the B-pillar lower trim (C), and pull the rear door sill trim
(D) up by hand to detach the clips, then remove it.
2. Pull the rear seat cushion (A) up to release the hook (B). While pulling the cushion up, detach
the clips and remove the rear door sill trim (C) from
3. Pull out the rear door opening seal (A) from the trim hooks (B) and around the rear door opening
flange, then remove the seal.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Interior Moulding / Trim > Trim Panel > Component Information > Service
and Repair > Trim Removal/Installation - Pillar Areas > Page 7739
4. Install the trim in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
- Check if the clips are damaged or stress-whitened, and if necessary, replace them with new ones.
199. Door Lock Actuator/Knob Switch, Driver's (LX, GX, EX, Si; Canada: DX-G)
200. Door Lock Actuator/Knob Switch, Front Passenger's (LX, GX, EX, Si; Canada: DX-G)
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Locks > Power Locks > Power Door Lock Actuator > Component
Information > Locations > Page 7761
201. Door Lock Actuator/Knob Switch, Left Rear (4-door: LX, GX, EX, Si, Canada DX-G)
202. Door Lock Actuator/Knob Switch, Right Rear (4-door: LX, GX, EX, Si, Canada DX-G)
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Locks > Power Locks > Power Door Lock Switch > Component Information
> Locations
Power Door Lock Switch: Locations
199. Door Lock Actuator/Knob Switch, Driver's (LX, GX, EX, Si; Canada: DX-G)
200. Door Lock Actuator/Knob Switch, Front Passenger's (LX, GX, EX, Si; Canada: DX-G)
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Locks > Power Locks > Power Door Lock Switch > Component Information
> Locations > Page 7769
201. Door Lock Actuator/Knob Switch, Left Rear (4-door: LX, GX, EX, Si, Canada DX-G)
202. Door Lock Actuator/Knob Switch, Right Rear (4-door: LX, GX, EX, Si, Canada DX-G)
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Locks > Trunk / Liftgate Lock Cylinder > Component Information > Service
and Repair
2-door
1. Disconnect the cylinder rod (A), and if equipped, disconnect the cylinder switch connector (B).
2. Remove the bolt securing the lock cylinder (A). Then turn the trunk lid lock cylinder clockwise,
and remove it.
3. Install the lock cylinder in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
- Make sure the cylinder switch connector is plugged in properly (if equipped) and the cylinder rod
is connected properly.
- Make sure the trunk lid opens properly and locks securely.
4-door
1. If equipped, remove the trunk lid trim. 2. Disconnect the cylinder rod (A), and if equipped,
disconnect the cylinder switch connector (B).
4. Remove the rear license trim. 5. Remove the bolt securing the lock cylinder (A).
6. Turn the lock cylinder (A) to release the hook (B) from the trunk lid (C), then remove the lock
cylinder.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Locks > Trunk / Liftgate Lock Cylinder > Component Information > Service
and Repair > Page 7774
7. Install the lock cylinder in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
- Make sure the cylinder switch connector is plugged in properly (if equipped) and the cylinder rod
is connected properly.
- Make sure the trunk lid opens properly and locks securely.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Mirrors > Heated Element, Mirror > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions
Heated Element: Diagram Information and Instructions
Circuit Schematics
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Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7780
Circuit Schematics
Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show
current flow, from power at the top of the diagram, to ground at the bottom.
Shared Circuits
Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that
connects one circuit to another, for example, is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it
pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or
component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring, check the operation of a
component it serves. If that component works, you know the shared wiring is OK.
Connectors
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Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7781
All in-line and junction connectors are numbered (C725, C416, etc.). Component connectors are
not numbered but are identified either by the name of the component if the component only has
one connector, or by a capital letter (A, B, C, etc.) if the component has more than one connector.
Below most connector numbers and component names are PHOTO and VIEW numbers. The
PHOTO number refers to a photo at Vehicle Level Locations that shows the connector's location on
the car. The VIEW number refers to an connector view at the Vehicle Level Connector Views that
shows the connector terminals, wire colors, connector cavity numbers, and other details.
The connector cavity numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector as seen
from either of the viewpoints. Except for the DLC (data link connector), disregard any numbers
molded into the connector housing.
Wires
Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the
stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number "2" next to the male
and female wire terminals at C554, for example, means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector
C554.
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the vehicle. Refer to the Power Distribution Diagram Set to get a more detailed
understanding of how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on. Individual circuit
schematics begin with a fuse. So if Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another
circuit share a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good
and power is available to the inoperative circuit.
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share the same
ground point.
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Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7786
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Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7787
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Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7788
How to Identify Connector Terminals
Connector terminals are numbered according to the cavities they are in. The cavities are numbered
starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side or looking at the
female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the
same. All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not
the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the
connector face.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Mirrors > Heated Element, Mirror > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7789
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown above is #6.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Mirrors > Heated Element, Mirror > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7790
The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice
connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for
all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement
terminal availability.
On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged,
replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If
any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it.
Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the
wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the
terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to
make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a
factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS.
Use the tools from Pin Tool Set. First, check the connector that you are about to repair.
- If it has a secondary terminal lock, go to Connectors With a Secondary Lock. A secondary lock,
found on most connectors on some models, is an additional locking device on the connector
housing as a backup for the primary lock on the terminal.
- If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock.
All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the
secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the
connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities.
EXAMPLE A:
EXAMPLE B:
EXAMPLE C:
EXAMPLE D:
2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW
TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE E:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Mirrors > Heated Element, Mirror > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7794
1. Remove the secondary locks.
2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW
TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE F:
3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of
connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary
in size and shape.
EXAMPLE A:
EXAMPLE B:
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Mirrors > Heated Element, Mirror > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7796
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE C:
EXAMPLE D:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Mirrors > Heated Element, Mirror > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7797
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE E:
EXAMPLE F:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Mirrors > Heated Element, Mirror > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7798
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE G:
1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct
replacement terminal based on the wire size range
NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part
number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available
through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures.
2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Mirrors > Heated Element, Mirror > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7799
3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the
wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from
the kit.)
NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did,
cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again.
4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the
anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown
in step 3.
6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact.
- If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool
over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the
stops make contact.
- If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully
squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Mirrors > Heated Element, Mirror > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7800
8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the following NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and
start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the
way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure
10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector.
Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too
short or when access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair.
On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged,
replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If
any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it.
1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from
Pin Tool Set.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Mirrors > Heated Element, Mirror > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7801
2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal,
then strip about half of the insulation off that piece.
This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal.
NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will
not nick or cut off any strands of wires.
3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and
same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit
onto the stripped end of the original wire.
5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the
pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more
than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at
the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the
harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make
each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail.
7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends
of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue
NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the
stripper.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Mirrors > Heated Element, Mirror > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7802
8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the
flare begins), and close the crimper handles far
enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click,
squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open.
9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the
wire all the way into the splice connector, and
squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until
the ratchet clicks again.
10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After
crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the
connector.
12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire(s), and shield them with
nonflammable material.
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Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7803
13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the
gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat
evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete
when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube.
NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun.
Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the
wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size)
splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select
the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in
quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures.
Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the
Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching
connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body.
1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
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Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7804
2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool.
NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal
because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit.
3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal
with a replacement terminal from the appropriate
Five-Step Troubleshooting
Five-Step Troubleshooting
Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint.
Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
problem area.
Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by
tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground (certain
circuits contain a "How the Circuit Works" Diagram set). Also, trace circuits that share wiring with
the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on,
are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step
1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used
only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely
cause.
Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more
possible causes.
Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple
procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to
make tests at points that are easily accessible.
Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe
procedures.
Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire
problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure
no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur.
Test Equipment
Test Equipment
CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
1O-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up
of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to
various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is
voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital
volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is
between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM).
In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low
resistance means good continuity.
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Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7805
Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a
reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is
affecting the measurement.
To order any test equipment shown, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool
numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin.
Jumper Wire
Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder
connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire
across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse.
To order any test equipment shown, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool
numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin.
Troubleshooting Precautions
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION: -
Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
- Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles.
2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part
Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place.
CAUTION: -
Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
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Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7806
- Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-mega
ohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that
contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
Troubleshooting Tests
Troubleshooting Tests
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt
ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest
"OHMS" range.
2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you
want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end.
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Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7807
4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or
no reading (zero), means good continuity.
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem. Circuits must be operating when checking
voltage drop.
1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts
range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage
is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM
voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
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Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7808
Heated Element: Electrical Diagrams
Diagram 64-0
Diagrams: Other diagrams referred to by number (See Diagram ##-#, etc.) within these diagrams
can be found at Diagrams by Number. See: Diagrams/Electrical Diagrams/Diagrams By Number
Locations: Location photographs (references to PHOTOS) referred to within these diagrams can be
found at Locations by Photo Number. See: Locations/Component Locations/Locations By Photo
Number
Connector Views: Connector terminal views (references to VIEWS) referred to within these
diagrams can be found at Connector Views by View Number. See: Diagrams/Connector
Views/Connector Views By View Number
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Mirrors > Heated Element, Mirror > Component Information > Diagrams >
Page 7809
Heated Element: Description and Operation
Battery voltage is supplied at all times through fuse 8 (in the under-hood fuse/relay box) to the rear
window defogger relay contacts. With the ignition switch in ON (II), battery voltage is supplied
through fuse 36 (in the under-dash fuse/relay box) to the rear window defogger relay coil and to the
heater control panel.
When the rear window defogger/mirror defogger switch (in the heater control panel) is pressed, the
heater control panel provides ground for the rear window defogger relay coil, which energizes the
relay. Battery voltage is supplied to the rear window defogger through the energized relay.
The rear window defogger is turned off by pressing the rear window defogger/mirror defogger
switch a second time or by turning the ignition switch to LOCK (0).
With the ignition switch in ON (II), battery voltage is supplied through fuse 36 (in the under-dash
fuse/relay box) to the power mirror defoggers relay and to the heater control panel.
When the rear window defogger/mirror defogger switch (in the heater control panel) is pressed, the
heater control panel provides ground for the power mirror defoggers relay coil, which energizes the
relay. Battery voltage is supplied to both mirror defoggers through the energized relay.
The power mirror defoggers are turned off by pressing the rear window defogger/mirror defogger
switch a second time or by turning the ignition switch to LOCK (0).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Mirrors > Heated Mirror Relay > Component Information > Locations
Use this chart to identify the type of relay, then do the test listed for it.
Five-terminal type
- There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when battery positive terminal
is connected to the No. 5 terminal, and battery negative terminal is connected to the No. 3 terminal.
- There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 4 terminals when power is disconnected.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Mirrors > Power Mirror Motor > Component Information > Service and
Repair
Power Mirror Motor: Service and Repair
4-door
1. Remove the mirror holder. 2. Remove the power mirror. 3. Disconnect the 3P (without power
mirror defogger) or 6P (with power mirror defogger) connector from the mirror. 4. With power mirror
defogger:
Disassemble the power mirror 6P connector (A), and remove the No. 1 and No. 3 terminals from it.
6. Record the terminal locations and wire colors. 7. Cut the wire harness with wire cutters, and
remove the gasket. 8. Remove the three screws, and separate the mirror housing (A) from the
bracket (B).
11. Install the actuator, bracket, harness clip, and gasket in the reverse order of removal. 12. Insert
the new actuator terminals into the connector in the original arrangement.
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Repair > Page 7818
13. Apply tape to seal the intersection of the wire harness and the gasket. 14. Reassemble in the
reverse order of disassembly. Be careful not to break the mirror when reinstalling it to the actuator.
15. Reinstall the mirror assembly on the door. 16. Operate the power mirror to ensure smooth
operation.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Mirrors > Power Mirror Switch > Component Information > Locations
Power Mirror Switch: Locations
Front Door
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Page 7824
Doors
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Page 7825
212. Power Mirror Switch (USA: LX, GX, EX, Si; Canada)
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Page 7826
2-door
1. Remove the driver's dashboard lower cover. 2. Disconnect the 13P connector from the power
mirror switch (A).
3. Check for continuity between the terminals in each switch position according to the table.
4. If the continuity is not as specified, remove the screws and replace the power mirror switch.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Paint, Striping and Decals > Paint > System Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Paint - Defect Warranty Claim Information
Paint: Technical Service Bulletins Paint - Defect Warranty Claim Information
10-002
BACKGROUND
American Honda, its factories, and its suppliers are constantly striving to increase the quality,
durability, and reliability of Honda vehicles. In the interest of making such improvements, as of
March 2009, American Honda requires that digital photographs be taken of paint defects submitted
for warranty repair.
Examples of paint defects include mismatched colors, dirt in the paint, gloss issues, paint runs,
"hiding" (thin paint), etc. Photos of these defects help provide valuable product information to the
factory for quicker analysis and development of countermeasures.
^ Store warranty paint claim photos for 12 months, in accordance with the document retention
policy outlined in the current Service Operations Manual.
NOTE:
A warranty claim may be subject to debit if the photos submitted do not adequately show the
customer's paint complaint.
^ Before photographing the paint defect, wash and completely dry the vehicle. Dirt, dust, and water
spots visible in the photos may cover the paint defects and make them difficult to diagnose.
^ To properly document each warranty paint repair claim, four to five photos are required. These
photos must be taken using a digital camera with "macro" focusing capabilities to provide detailed,
in-focus close-ups.
^ For maximum clarity, the file size for each photo must be between 500 kb and 2,000 kb (2 mb).
ZIP-compressed files are not acceptable.
^ Cell phone photos are not acceptable because of the phone's lack of focusing capability.
^ Before committing to paint repair, ensure that the photos you've taken are clear and in focus, and
meet the standards and required number and type of photos for warranty claim submittal.
^ It's best to shoot multiples of each required shot; this gives you the widest choice of photos to
choose from. To free up hard drive space after you've chosen your four or five best shots, delete
the extra photos.
PAINT DEFECT PREPARATION
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Paint, Striping and Decals > Paint > System Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Paint - Defect Warranty Claim Information > Page 7832
^ Before taking photos, outline the paint defect with a wide-tip Sharpie marker pen, a crayon, a
grease pencil, masking tape, or stick-on paper notes. The marking material must contrast with the
color of the paint, and should clearly identify the paint defect area.
^ If the paint defect extends across body panels, run the marking material across the panels to
show the location and full extent of the paint defect.
^ Alternatively, if you have a computer program that allows you to draw on digital photographs, you
can use that to outline the defect area(s) on your photos.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Paint, Striping and Decals > Paint > System Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Paint - Defect Warranty Claim Information > Page 7833
TIPS FOR TAKING HIGH-QUALITY PAINT DEFECT PHOTOS
Automotive paint has evolved into an elaborate combination of color pigments, solid metallic flakes,
pearl (coated mica), and transparent toners in the clear coat that give the paint its depth, color, and
gloss.
As a result, some paint defects photograph better outdoors, while others do so indoors. To help
decide where to photograph the defect, first determine whether the customer complaint is for a
surface paint defect, or if the defect is below the paint's surface. As a general rule:
^ Surface paint defects photograph better inside a shop with artificial light, such as that produced
by overhead fluorescent tubes. While viewing the vehicle through the camera's viewfinder or LCD
screen, move the camera to position the fluorescent light's reflections over and around the defect,
carefully watching for distortions in the light that best reveal the surface defect.
^ Most paint defects photograph better with the flash off, the exception being dirt or fingerprints
embedded in the paint, which may be highlighted by the flash's reflection. To determine which
method will provide the best shots, take one shot with the flash on, and another with it off, then
compare the two.
NOTE:
Photographing with the flash off might extend the shutter time, and may require the camera to be
stabilized by mounting it on a tripod, or by holding it against something rigid.
^ Paint defects under the clear coat surface photograph better outside in natural light, with the sun
low in the sky, behind the photographer, and facing the defect. The hours between 8-11 a.m. and
2-6 p.m. usually provide the best light to photograph defects within the paint, as the sunlight at
these times allows you to see through the clear coat into the paint.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Paint, Striping and Decals > Paint > System Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Paint - Defect Warranty Claim Information > Page 7834
^ When shooting a defect under the surface, first look at it straight-on, then move to look at the
defect from multiple angles, carefully watching for the best light that reveals the defect, then snap
that view of the defect with your camera. If needed, you may have to reposition the vehicle in
relation to its light source to clearly reveal and photograph the paint defect.
To properly document each warranty paint repair claim, four to five photos must be taken, as
described below:
Photo One: Take a readable, in-focus shot of the vehicle's barcoded VIN sticker on the driver's side
doorjamb.
Note:
If you shoot this using your camera's flash, make sure the flash's reflection does not reduce the
VIN sticker's readability.
Photo Two: Take an orientation shot of the entire paint defect area, with the lens zoomed out wide
enough to show the defect's location in relation to other body parts, such as door handles,
windshield, headlights, bumper, side windows, wheel, etc.
Photos Three and Four: Take the third shot closer to the defect and from a different angle, to add
more detail to the warranty repair claim. Then, if needed to further support the claim, take a fourth
shot from another angle to make sure that the defect and/or its full extent are completely
documented.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Paint, Striping and Decals > Paint > System Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Paint - Defect Warranty Claim Information > Page 7835
Photo Five: Take the last required shot as a sharply focused macro close-up, about 4 inches (100
mm) from the defect, showing exactly what the paint defect is. For example, if the defect is a
mismatch in color, take a macro close-up of the mismatched panel and the correct color body panel
together in the same shot.
Note:
To achieve a clear, close-up photo at this distance, you may have to manually focus the camera.
^ it lacks focus, detail, and marking materials that identify the area and extent of the paint defect,
as specified in this service bulletin and per warranty claim submittal standards.
While the Picture Manager program cannot correct blurry, out-of-focus pictures, it can adjust
pictures for brightness, contrast, and color, helping to reveal details. It can also crop, resize, or
compress digital photo files so that they can be e-mailed for warranty claim consideration.
^ To use this program on your PC, select Start > Programs > Microsoft Office > Microsoft Office
Tools > Microsoft Office Picture Manager.
^ If the above instruction does not lead you to the Picture Manager program, select Start > Search.
Under Search for Folders or Files, type "Picture Manager" in the Search window, then click on
Search Now.
^ Once Microsoft Picture Manager is open, you can create a shortcut to it on your computer's
desktop by clicking on Add Picture Shortcut, which is
In Picture Manager, select Edit/Edit Pictures > Edit Using These Tools/Brightness and Contrast.
Use the sliding scales to adjust the photo to the brightness and contrast that best reveal the fault.
If the photo file size exceeds 2,000 kb (2 mb), it cannot be accepted by the American Honda
Warranty department.
To reduce a picture's file size in Picture Manager, select Edit/Edit Pictures > Change Picture
Size/Resize Settings > Predefined Width x Height. Start with Document - Small (800x600 px), and
see if this reduces the picture file size to below 2,000 kb (2 mb).
NOTE:
Batches of paint defect photos can be resized in a single operation by doing this:
^ Select all shots you want converted from the thumbnail photos stored in your paint defect
warranty claim folder.
^ Click on Resize.
^ Choose a resolution size, such as 800x600 px, from Predefined Width x Height.
^ Click on OK.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Paint, Striping and Decals > Paint > System Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Paint - Defect Warranty Claim Information > Page 7838
Disclaimer
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Paint, Striping and Decals > Paint > System Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Paint - Defect Warranty Claim Information > Page 7839
07-044
August 3, 2007
NOTE:
All pearl and metallic colors have clear coat. Depending on the factory, some solid colors have a
clear coat, and some do not.
Disclaimer
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Paint, Striping and Decals > Paint > System Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Page 7842
Paint: Locations
Coating Diagram (4-door)
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Paint, Striping and Decals > Paint > System Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Page 7843
Paint Information
WARNING: Most paints contain substances that are harmful if inhaled or swallowed. Read the
paint label before opening the container.
The following precautions are important items in order to maintain a safe painting work area.
- Wear approved gloves and appropriate clothing when painting. Avoid contact with skin.
- If paint gets in your mouth or on your skin, rinse and wash thoroughly with water. If paint gets in
your eyes, flush with water and get prompt medical attention.
- After the painting work is finished, wash your face and gargle with water.
- Paint is flammable. Store it in a safe place, and keep it away from sparks, flames, or cigarettes.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Paint, Striping and Decals > Paint > System Information > Application and
ID > Color Chart Paint Specifications
Paint Code
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Paint, Striping and Decals > Paint > System Information > Description and
Operation > Paint Information
The 3-coat.3-bake (3C.3B) paint finish gives the Civic a deep gloss and stunning finish. This
information provides information on paint defect, repair, and refinishing. Throughout, the objective
is to explain in a simple yet comprehensive manner the basic items you should know about paint
repairs. Select the correct material for the defect and repaint or refinish in the correct manner as
described in this information.
Basic Rules for Repairing a Paint Finish To repair paint damage, always use the 2-part acrylic
urethane paints designated; polish and bake each of the three coats, as in production, to maintain
the original film thickness, and to assure the same quality as the original finish.
Pretreatment and electrodeposition In the pretreatment process, the entire body is degreased,
cleaned, and coated with zinc phosphate by dipping. After the body has been cleaned with pure
water, it is placed in an electrolytic bath of soluble primer (Cationic Electrodeposition). This
produces a thorough corrosion inhibiting coating on the inner surface and corners of the body,
pillars, sills, and panel joints. Chipping primer is then applied to the most susceptible areas.
Intermediate coat The intermediate coat is applied to the prepared surface to further protect against
damage.
Top coat Enamel paint and either polyester or acrylic resin paint are used in the top coat for higher
solidity, smoothness, brightness, and weather resistance.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Paint, Striping and Decals > Paint > System Information > Description and
Operation > Paint Information > Page 7852
The removal of paint and undercoating by stone chips immediately exposes metal to the
atmosphere, causing it to oxidize. The thickness of this oxidation increases if the process continues
unchecked. The soft chipping guard primer protects against damage due to the impact of such
objects.
- The soft chipping guard primer coat is applied over the E. D. (Electrostatically Deposited) primer.
It is followed by guide coating and top coating.
- The soft chipping guard primer produces a smooth surface when dry. It should be sprayed so the
thickness of the protective film is 20 microns.
- A soft chipping guard primer coat is then applied to the most susceptible area.
- Spray the primer surface (2-part urethane primer surfacer) on the soft chipping guard primer
coating areas when you replace parts using soft chipping guard primer coat.
Coating Procedures
WARNING:
NOTE: -
2. Air blowing/degreasing.
Use masking tape and paper to protect the related areas from overspray.
- Spray about 4 to 5 coats to get 20 microns of thickness. One coat deposits about 5 to 7 microns.
- Do not try to cover the surface with one heavy coat. Applying several thin coats is recommended.
- Mix the primer surfacer with the correct ratio of additive and solvent.
5. Drying.
After spraying primer surfacer, allow 7 to 10 minutes of drying time, then force dry it with infrared
lamps or an industrial dryer.
6. Polishing.
- Check that the primer surfacer has dried thoroughly, then sand the primer surfacer.
Use this chart to identify the type of relay, then do the test listed for it.
Five-terminal type
- There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when battery positive terminal
is connected to the No. 5 terminal, and battery negative terminal is connected to the No. 3 terminal.
- There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 4 terminals when power is disconnected.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Relays and Modules - Body and Frame > Seat Heater Relay > Component
Information > Locations
Use this chart to identify the type of relay, then do the test listed for it.
Normally-open type
- There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when battery positive terminal
is connected to the No. 4 terminal, and battery negative terminal is connected to the No. 3 terminal.
- There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power is disconnected.
Five-terminal type
- There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when battery positive terminal
is connected to the No. 5 terminal, and battery negative terminal is connected to the No. 3 terminal.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Relays and Modules - Body and Frame > Seat Heater Relay > Component
Information > Locations > Page 7864
- There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 4 terminals when power is disconnected.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Relays and Modules - Body and Frame > Sunroof / Moonroof Relay >
Component Information > Diagrams
170. Moonroof Cut Relay And Power Window Cut Relay (Honda Accessory: Canada A/T)
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Relays and Modules - Body and Frame > Sunroof / Moonroof Module >
Component Information > Locations
Sunshade Replacement
1. Remove the drain channel. 2. Slide the sunshade (A) until you can see both sunshade slider
spacers (B).
3. Remove the screws, then remove both spacers. 4. While lifting the front portion of the sunshade
(A), move the sunshade forward until you can see both sunshade rear hooks (B). Do not damage
the
7. Remove both front sunshade base sliders (A) and both rear sunshade base sliders (B).
8. Install the sunshade in the reverse order of removal, and check the glass position adjustment. 9.
Check for water leaks. Let the water run freely from a hose without a nozzle. Do not use a
high-pressure spray.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Roof and Associated Components > Sunroof / Moonroof > Sunroof /
Moonroof Cable > Component Information > Service and Repair
Sunroof / Moonroof Cable: Service and Repair
- Sunshade
- Moonroof motor
3. Put on gloves to protect your hands. Remove the screws (A, B) securing the slide stops (C), and
cable tube rear brackets (D), cable tube side
bracket mounting bolts (E) and the cable tube mounting screws (F) from both sides of the frame
(G).
4. Turn both cable tube side brackets (A) up to release the hooks (B) from the holes in both sides
of the frame.
5. Pivot the glass brackets (C) down by sliding the link lifters (D) back, then slide both glass
brackets back with the link lifters. 6. Slide the cable assembly (E) half-way. 7. Remove the slide
stops (A) and the drain channel sliders (B) from both sides.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Roof and Associated Components > Sunroof / Moonroof > Sunroof /
Moonroof Cable > Component Information > Service and Repair > Page 7880
8. Slide the cable assembly (A) and both glass brackets (B) back, remove the deflector sliders (C)
from both glass brackets, then remove them from
the frame (D).
9. Install the slider and cable assembly in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
- Apply multipurpose grease to the glass bracket (A) and guide rail portion of the frame (B)
indicated by the arrows.
- Before reinstalling the motor, make sure both link lifters are parallel, and in the fully closed
position.
- Before reinstalling the motor, install the frame and glass, then check the opening drag.
Motor Replacement
1. Remove the headliner. 2. Put on gloves to protect your hands. Disconnect the connector (A),
and remove the bolts, then remove the motor (B).
3. Install the motor in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
170. Moonroof Cut Relay And Power Window Cut Relay (Honda Accessory: Canada A/T)
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Roof and Associated Components > Sunroof / Moonroof > Sunroof /
Moonroof Switch > Component Information > Locations
1. Open the glass fully. 2. Remove the links (A) from both sides.
4. Pry up on the deflector bases (A) and release the hooks (B), then remove the bases with springs
(C) from both sides.
5. Install the deflector in the reverse order of removal. 6. Reset the moonroof control unit.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Roof and Associated Components > Sunroof / Moonroof > Sunroof /
Moonroof Drain > Component Information > Service and Repair > Drain Channel Replacement
Sunroof / Moonroof Drain: Service and Repair Drain Channel Replacement
1. Remove the glass. 2. Move both glass brackets (A) with the 5 mm hexagonal wrench, to the
position where the moonroof normally tilts up and disconnect the drain
4. Pull the rear edge of the drain channel (A) up while pushing both clips (B), and release the
channel from both hooks (C) of the drain channel slider
by pulling it rearward.
5. Remove the drain channel. 6. Install the channel in the reverse order of removal, and note these
items:
SRS components are located in this area. Review the SRS component locations and the
precautions and procedures before doing repairs or service.
2-door
- Headliner
- Moonroof glass
2. Put on gloves to protect your hands. Disconnect the motor connector (A).
4. Remove the roof wire harness (B) by detaching the harness clips (C). 5. With an assistant
holding the frame (A), remove the bolts (B, C), starting at the rear, and release the rear hooks (D)
by moving the frame forward.
6. With the help of an assistant, carefully remove the frame through the front door opening. Take
care not to scratch the interior trim and body, or
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Roof and Associated Components > Sunroof / Moonroof > Sunroof /
Moonroof Drain > Component Information > Service and Repair > Drain Channel Replacement > Page 7901
tear the seat covers.
7. To remove a front drain valve (A) from the body, remove these parts:
Tie a string to the top end of the drain tube, then pull the front drain tube (B) down out of the
A-pillar. Leave the string in the pillar to use when reinstalling the drain tube.
8. To remove a rear drain valve (A) from the body, remove these parts:
Tie a string to the top end of the rear drain tube (B), then pull the drain tube down out of the pillar.
9. Install the frame and drain tube in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
- Before installing the frame, clear the drain tubes and drain valves using compressed air.
- When installing, tie a string to the top end of the new drain tube and pull it up into the roof.
- When installing the frame, first attach the rear hooks into the body holes.
- When connecting the drain tube, slide it over the frame nozzle at least 10 mm (0.39 in.).
- Install the tube clip (A) on the drain tube (B) as shown.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Roof and Associated Components > Sunroof / Moonroof > Sunroof /
Moonroof Drain > Component Information > Service and Repair > Drain Channel Replacement > Page 7902
10. Check for water leaks. Let the water run freely from a hose without a nozzle. Do not use a
high-pressure spray.
SRS components are located in this area. Review the SRS component locations and the
precautions and procedures before doing repairs or service.
4-door
- Headliner
- Moonroof glass
2. Put on gloves to protect your hands. Disconnect the motor connector (A).
4. Remove the roof wire harness (B) by detaching the harness clips (C). 5. With an assistant
holding the frame (A), remove the bolts, starting at the rear, and release the rear hooks (B) by
moving the frame forward.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Roof and Associated Components > Sunroof / Moonroof > Sunroof /
Moonroof Drain > Component Information > Service and Repair > Drain Channel Replacement > Page 7903
6. With the help of an assistant, carefully remove the frame through the front door opening. Take
care not to scratch the interior trim and body, or
7. To remove a front drain valve (A) from the body, remove the kick panel, left or right, and the
driver's dashboard undercover or passenger's
dashboard undercover. Detach the clips (B), then remove the front drain tube (C).
8. To remove a rear drain valve (A) from the body, remove these parts;
Tie a string to the top end of the rear drain tube (B), then pull the drain tube down out of the pillar.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Roof and Associated Components > Sunroof / Moonroof > Sunroof /
Moonroof Drain > Component Information > Service and Repair > Drain Channel Replacement > Page 7904
9. Install the frame and drain tube in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
- Before installing the frame, clear the drain tubes and drain valves using compressed air.
- When installing, tie a string to the top end of the new drain tube and pull it up into the roof.
- When installing the frame, first attach the rear hooks into the body holes.
- When connecting the drain tube, slide it over the frame nozzle at least 10 mm (0.39 in.).
- Install the tube clip (A) on the drain tube (B) as shown.
10. Check for water leaks. Let the water run freely from a hose without a nozzle. Do not use a
high-pressure spray.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Roof and Associated Components > Sunroof / Moonroof > Sunroof /
Moonroof Drain > Component Information > Service and Repair > Drain Channel Replacement > Page 7905
Sunroof / Moonroof Drain: Service and Repair Drain Channel Slider and Cable Assembly
Replacement
- Sunshade
- Moonroof motor
3. Put on gloves to protect your hands. Remove the screws (A, B) securing the slide stops (C), and
cable tube rear brackets (D), cable tube side
bracket mounting bolts (E) and the cable tube mounting screws (F) from both sides of the frame
(G).
4. Turn both cable tube side brackets (A) up to release the hooks (B) from the holes in both sides
of the frame.
5. Pivot the glass brackets (C) down by sliding the link lifters (D) back, then slide both glass
brackets back with the link lifters. 6. Slide the cable assembly (E) half-way. 7. Remove the slide
stops (A) and the drain channel sliders (B) from both sides.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Roof and Associated Components > Sunroof / Moonroof > Sunroof /
Moonroof Drain > Component Information > Service and Repair > Drain Channel Replacement > Page 7906
8. Slide the cable assembly (A) and both glass brackets (B) back, remove the deflector sliders (C)
from both glass brackets, then remove them from
the frame (D).
9. Install the slider and cable assembly in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
- Apply multipurpose grease to the glass bracket (A) and guide rail portion of the frame (B)
indicated by the arrows.
- Before reinstalling the motor, make sure both link lifters are parallel, and in the fully closed
position.
- Before reinstalling the motor, install the frame and glass, then check the opening drag.
SRS components are located in this area. Review the SRS component locations and the
precautions and procedures before doing repairs or service.
2-door
- Headliner
- Moonroof glass
2. Put on gloves to protect your hands. Disconnect the motor connector (A).
4. Remove the roof wire harness (B) by detaching the harness clips (C). 5. With an assistant
holding the frame (A), remove the bolts (B, C), starting at the rear, and release the rear hooks (D)
by moving the frame forward.
6. With the help of an assistant, carefully remove the frame through the front door opening. Take
care not to scratch the interior trim and body, or
7. To remove a front drain valve (A) from the body, remove these parts:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Roof and Associated Components > Sunroof / Moonroof > Sunroof /
Moonroof Frame > Component Information > Service and Repair > Page 7911
- Kick panel, left or right
Tie a string to the top end of the drain tube, then pull the front drain tube (B) down out of the
A-pillar. Leave the string in the pillar to use when reinstalling the drain tube.
8. To remove a rear drain valve (A) from the body, remove these parts:
Tie a string to the top end of the rear drain tube (B), then pull the drain tube down out of the pillar.
9. Install the frame and drain tube in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
- Before installing the frame, clear the drain tubes and drain valves using compressed air.
- When installing, tie a string to the top end of the new drain tube and pull it up into the roof.
- When installing the frame, first attach the rear hooks into the body holes.
- When connecting the drain tube, slide it over the frame nozzle at least 10 mm (0.39 in.).
- Install the tube clip (A) on the drain tube (B) as shown.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Roof and Associated Components > Sunroof / Moonroof > Sunroof /
Moonroof Frame > Component Information > Service and Repair > Page 7912
10. Check for water leaks. Let the water run freely from a hose without a nozzle. Do not use a
high-pressure spray.
SRS components are located in this area. Review the SRS component locations and the
precautions and procedures before doing repairs or service.
4-door
- Headliner
- Moonroof glass
2. Put on gloves to protect your hands. Disconnect the motor connector (A).
4. Remove the roof wire harness (B) by detaching the harness clips (C). 5. With an assistant
holding the frame (A), remove the bolts, starting at the rear, and release the rear hooks (B) by
moving the frame forward.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Roof and Associated Components > Sunroof / Moonroof > Sunroof /
Moonroof Frame > Component Information > Service and Repair > Page 7913
6. With the help of an assistant, carefully remove the frame through the front door opening. Take
care not to scratch the interior trim and body, or
7. To remove a front drain valve (A) from the body, remove the kick panel, left or right, and the
driver's dashboard undercover or passenger's
dashboard undercover. Detach the clips (B), then remove the front drain tube (C).
8. To remove a rear drain valve (A) from the body, remove these parts;
Tie a string to the top end of the rear drain tube (B), then pull the drain tube down out of the pillar.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Roof and Associated Components > Sunroof / Moonroof > Sunroof /
Moonroof Frame > Component Information > Service and Repair > Page 7914
9. Install the frame and drain tube in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
- Before installing the frame, clear the drain tubes and drain valves using compressed air.
- When installing, tie a string to the top end of the new drain tube and pull it up into the roof.
- When installing the frame, first attach the rear hooks into the body holes.
- When connecting the drain tube, slide it over the frame nozzle at least 10 mm (0.39 in.).
- Install the tube clip (A) on the drain tube (B) as shown.
10. Check for water leaks. Let the water run freely from a hose without a nozzle. Do not use a
high-pressure spray.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Roof and Associated Components > Sunroof / Moonroof > Sunroof /
Moonroof Module > Component Information > Locations
NOTE: If the vehicle has been in a collision, always inspect the active head restraints, even if they
appear reusable, by doing the following procedure.
1. Push the head restraint (A) forward fully from the locked position to return the inside inertia lock
(B).
Inspection
3. Fold the seat-back forward, then recline the seat-back to the first lock position, and adjust the
head restraint to the highest position. 4. Apply masking tape on the top of the head restraint. 5.
Make marks (A) on both sides at 250 mm (9.84 in.) upward from the roots of the head restraint
frame (B) along the back of the head restraint (C)
6. Push the head restraint (A) forward, and check: Measure the level amount of the head restraint
movement with a scale. The head restraint should
move more than 50 mm (2.0 in.) without resistance. If it is less than 50 mm (2.0 in.), or the head
restraint doesn't move smoothly, replace the seat-back frame assembly: -
- Driver's seat
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Seats > Head Rest > Component Information > Testing and Inspection >
Page 7922
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Seats > Seat Bottom > Seat Bottom Frame > Component Information >
Service and Repair
NOTE:
- Make sure the ODS wires are routed properly so they are not pinched and do not interfere with
other parts.
- If the side airbag has deployed, replace the seat frame and related parts with new ones.
1. Remove the front seat. 2. Slide the front seat frame rearward fully, detach the clips, then remove
the front rail covers (A) from the front of both seat tracks.
3. Slide the front seat frame forward fully, detach the clips, then remove the left rear rail cover (A)
and the right rear rail cover (B) from the back of
- ODS unit
5. Remove the clips, then remove the recline inner covers (A), and the side airbag module holder
(B) from the seat frame (C).
6. Install the new seat frame in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
- Check if the clips are damaged or stress-whitened, and if necessary, replace them with new ones.
NOTE:
- If the side airbag has deployed, replace the seat frame and related parts with new ones.
- ODS unit
3. Remove the clips, then remove the recline inner covers (A) from the seat frame (B), with side
airbag remove the module holder (C).
4. Remove the bolts, and release the seat cushion springs (A) from the hooks (B), then remove the
seat cushion frame (C).
5. Remove the seat weight sensors. 6. If necessary, remove the bushing (A, B) from the seat
cushion frame (C).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Seats > Seat Bottom > Seat Bottom Frame > Component Information >
Service and Repair > Page 7929
7. Install the new seat frame in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
- Check if the clips are damaged or stress-whitened, and if necessary, replace them with new ones.
Driver's Seat
Check the operation of the driver's seat position sensor after any of these actions:
NOTE:
- Apply multipurpose grease to the sliding portions and pivot portions of the seat tracks.
- If the side airbag has deployed, replace the seat frame and related parts with new ones.
3. Remove the clips, then remove the recline inner covers (A), outer upper rail cover (B), inner
upper rail cover (C) and the module holder (D) from
4. Install the new seat frame in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
- Check if the clips are damaged or stress-whitened, and if necessary, replace them with new ones.
2-door
SRS components are located in this area. Review the SRS component locations and the
precautions and procedures before doing repairs or service.
- Check the operation of the driver's seat position sensor after any of these actions: -
NOTE:
- Take care not to tear the seams or damage the seat covers.
- On the passenger's seat, do not touch the ODS sensor in the seat-back pad, and keep it away
from oil. Oil can corrode the sensor causing it to fail.
1. Remove the front seat. 2. Remove the head restraint. 3. From under the seat cushion,
disconnect and detach the side airbag connector (A).
4. Release the hook (B) and seat cushion cover (C) from the seat cushion frame spring (D), then
pull the cover back and release the hooks (E).
6. Release the hook strips (A), then loosen the seat-back cover (B). Pull the side airbag harness
(C) with harness guides (D) out through holes in the
seat cushion cover (E). Passenger's seat is shown; driver's seat is similar.
7. Detach the harness clip (A), and pull the side airbag harness (B) out through the harness hole
(C) in the seat-back cover and seat frame.
8. Remove the side airbag. 9. Release the hook strips (A), then loosen the seat-back cover (B).
Driver's seat is shown; passenger's seat is similar.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Seats > Seat Cover > Component Information > Service and Repair > Front
Seat-Back Cover Replacement > Page 7935
10. Turn over the reinforcing cloth (A), then release the hooks (B) from the side airbag module
holder (C). Passenger's seat is shown; driver's seat is
similar.
11. Passenger's seat: Disconnect the ODS sensor connectors (A) and ODS subharness connector
(B) from the ODS unit (C), and pull them out through
the hole in the seat frame. Pull the ODS subharness (D) out through the harness hole (E) in the
seat-back cover (F). Detach the harness clips (G) and remove the wire tie (H).
12. Pinch the tabs on the ends of the head restraint guides (A), and remove them from the
seat-back.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Seats > Seat Cover > Component Information > Service and Repair > Front
Seat-Back Cover Replacement > Page 7936
13. Remove the seat-back cover/pad (A) from the seat (B).
14. Pull back the edge of the seat-back cover all the way around, and release the clips (A), then
remove the seat-back cover.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Seats > Seat Cover > Component Information > Service and Repair > Front
Seat-Back Cover Replacement > Page 7937
15. Install the cover in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
- To prevent wrinkles when installing a seat-back cover, make sure the material is stretched evenly
over the pad before securing the clips, hooks, and hook strips.
- Replace any clips (A) you removed with new ones. Install them with commercially available
upholstery ring pliers (B).
- Before installing the side airbag (C), make sure the reinforcing cloth (D) is fixed on the seat-back
frame (E) securely.
- Make sure the side airbag harness and ODS subharness (passenger's seat) are routed properly.
4-door
SRS components are located in this area. Review the SRS component locations and the
precautions and procedures before doing repairs or service.
- Check the operation of the driver's seat position sensor after any of these actions: -
- Take care not to tear the seams or damage the seat covers.
- On the passenger's seat, do not touch the OPDS sensor in the seat-back pad, and keep it away
from oil. Oil can corrode the sensor caution it to fail.
1. Remove the front seat. 2. Remove the head restraint. 3. From under the seat cushion, detach
the side airbag connector clip (A).
4. Release the slit in the seat cushion cover (B) from the seat cushion frame spring (C), then pull
the cover back. Release the hooks (D) and remove
5. Detach the clips and hooks (A) by pulling the bottom of the back cover (B) back, then gently pull
down the cover to release the hooks (C) from the
7. Detach the harness clip (A), and pull the side airbag harness (B) out through the harness hole
(C) in the seat-back cover and seat frame.
8. Remove the side airbag. 9. Release the hook strips (A), then loosen the seat-back cover (B).
Driver's seat is shown; passenger's seat is similar.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Seats > Seat Cover > Component Information > Service and Repair > Front
Seat-Back Cover Replacement > Page 7940
10. Turn over the reinforcing cloth (A), then release the hooks (B) from the module holder (C).
11. Passenger's seat: Disconnect the ODS sensor connectors (A) and ODS subharness connector
(B) from the ODS unit (C), and pull them in through
the hole in the seat frame. Pull the ODS subharness (D) out through the harness hole (E) in the
seat-back cover (F). Detach the harness clips (G), and remove the wire tie (H).
12. Pinch the tabs on the ends of the head restraint guides (A), and remove them from the
seat-back.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Seats > Seat Cover > Component Information > Service and Repair > Front
Seat-Back Cover Replacement > Page 7941
13. Remove the seat-back cover/pad (A) from the seat (B).
14. Except Si model: Pull back the edge of the seat-back cover all the way around, and release the
clips (A), then remove the seat-back cover.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Seats > Seat Cover > Component Information > Service and Repair > Front
Seat-Back Cover Replacement > Page 7942
15. Except Si model: Install the cover in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
- To prevent wrinkles when installing a seat-back cover, make sure the material is stretched evenly
over the pad before securing the clips, hooks, and hook strips.
- Before installing the side airbag (B), make sure the reinforcing cloth (C) is fixed on the seat-back
frame (D) securely.
- Make sure the side airbag harness and ODS subharness (passenger's seat) are routed properly.
16. Si model: Pull back the edge of the seat-back cover all the way around, and release the clips
(A), then remove the seat-back cover.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Seats > Seat Cover > Component Information > Service and Repair > Front
Seat-Back Cover Replacement > Page 7943
17. Si model: Install the cover in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
- To prevent wrinkles when installing a seat-back cover, make sure the material is stretched evenly
over the pad before securing the clips, hooks, and hook strips.
- Replace any clips (A) you removed with new ones. Install them with commercially available
upholstery ring pliers (B).
- Before installing the side airbag (C), make sure the reinforcing cloth (D) is fixed on the seat-back
frame (E) securely.
- Make sure the side airbag harness and ODS subharness (passenger's seat) are routed properly.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Seats > Seat Cover > Component Information > Service and Repair > Front
Seat-Back Cover Replacement > Page 7944
Seat Cover: Service and Repair Front Seat Cushion Cover Replacement
KTC trim tool set SOJATP2014 * * Available through the American Honda Tool and Equipment
Program.
2-door
SRS components are located in this area. Review the SRS component locations and the
precautions and procedures before doing repairs or service.
- Check the operation of the driver's seat position sensor after any of these actions: -
NOTE:
- Use the appropriate tool from the KTC trim tool set to avoid damage when prying components.
- Take care not to tear the seams of damage the seat covers.
1. Remove the front seat. 2. Remove the front seat belt buckle. 3. Passenger's seat: Remove the
screws, then remove the rear seat access knob (A).
4. Pull back the cap (A) to release the hooks (B), and remove the screws, then remove the height
handle (C).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Seats > Seat Cover > Component Information > Service and Repair > Front
Seat-Back Cover Replacement > Page 7945
5. Remove the recline outer cover (A).
1. Remove the recline knob (B) and screw (C). 2. Gently pull out the cover, then detach the clips
(D), and release the hooks (E). 3. Release the rear seat access lever (F).
6. Gently pull out the center cover (A), then detach the clips, and release the hooks (B). Driver's
seat is shown; passenger's seat is similar.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Seats > Seat Cover > Component Information > Service and Repair > Front
Seat-Back Cover Replacement > Page 7946
7. From under the seat cushion, disconnect and detach the connectors:
- Passenger's seat: -
- Driver's seat: -
8. Release the hook (D) and seat cushion cover (E) from the seat cushion frame spring (F), then
pull the cover back and release the hooks (G). Detach
the harness clip (H), and remove the wire ties (I).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Seats > Seat Cover > Component Information > Service and Repair > Front
Seat-Back Cover Replacement > Page 7947
9. Pull the side airbag harness (A), ODS subharness (B) (passenger's seat), and harness guides
(C) out through the holes (D) in the seat cushion
cover.
10. Release the hook strips (A, B) from the seat frame (C).
11. Release the hook (A) from under the seat cushion.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Seats > Seat Cover > Component Information > Service and Repair > Front
Seat-Back Cover Replacement > Page 7948
12. Remove the seat cushion cover/pad (A) from the seat frame (B).
13. Release the clips (A) from under the seat cushion (B).
14. Pull back the edge of the seat cushion cover all the way around, and release the clips (A), then
remove the seat cushion cover.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Seats > Seat Cover > Component Information > Service and Repair > Front
Seat-Back Cover Replacement > Page 7949
15. Install the cover in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
- To prevent wrinkles when installing a seat cushion cover, make sure the material is stretched
evenly over the pad before securing the clips and hook strips.
- Replace any clips (A) you removed with new ones. Install them with commercially available
upholstery ring pliers (B).
Special Tools Required
KTC trim tool set SOJATP2014 * * Available through the American Honda Tool and Equipment
Program.
4-door
SRS components are located in this area. Review the SRS component locations and the
precautions and procedures before doing repairs or service.
- Check the operation of the driver's seat position sensor after any of these actions: -
NOTE:
- Use the appropriate tool from the KTC trim tool set to avoid damage when prying components.
- Take care not to tear the seams of damage the seat covers.
1. Remove the front seat. 2. Remove the front seat belt buckle. 3. Pull back the cap (A) to release
the hooks (B), and remove the screws, then remove the height adjuster handle (C).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Seats > Seat Cover > Component Information > Service and Repair > Front
Seat-Back Cover Replacement > Page 7950
4. Remove the recline cover (A).
1. Remove the recline knob (B) and screw. 2. Gently pull out the cover, then detach the clip, and
release the hooks (C).
5. Gently pull put the center cover (A), then detach the clip, and release the hooks (B). Driver's seat
is shown; passenger's seat is similar.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Seats > Seat Cover > Component Information > Service and Repair > Front
Seat-Back Cover Replacement > Page 7951
6. From under the seat cushion, detach the side airbag connector clip (A).
7. Release slits in the seat cushion cover (B) from the seat cushion frame spring (C), then pull the
cover back. Release the hooks (D) and remove the
8. Pull the side airbag harness (A) out through the loop (B).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Seats > Seat Cover > Component Information > Service and Repair > Front
Seat-Back Cover Replacement > Page 7952
9. Release the hook strips (A, B) from the seat frame (C).
10. Release the hook (A) from under the seat cushion.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Seats > Seat Cover > Component Information > Service and Repair > Front
Seat-Back Cover Replacement > Page 7953
11. Remove the seat cushion cover/pad (A) from the seat frame (B).
12. Except Si model: Release the hooks (A) from under the seat cushion (B).
13. Except Si model: Pull back the edge of the seat-back cover all the way around, and release the
clips (A), then remove the seat-back cover.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Seats > Seat Cover > Component Information > Service and Repair > Front
Seat-Back Cover Replacement > Page 7954
14. Except Si model: Install the cover in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
- To prevent wrinkles when installing a seat-back cover, make sure the material is stretched evenly
over the pad before securing the clips, hooks, and hook strips.
15. Si model: Release the clips (A) from under the seat cushion (B).
16. Si model: Pull back the edge of the seat cushion cover all the way around, and release the clips
(A), then remove the seat cushion cover.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Seats > Seat Cover > Component Information > Service and Repair > Front
Seat-Back Cover Replacement > Page 7955
17. Si model: Install the cover in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
- To prevent wrinkles when installing a seat cushion cover, make sure the material is stretched
evenly over the pad before securing the clips and hook strips.
- Replace any clips (A) you removed with new ones. Install them with commercially available
upholstery ring pliers (B).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Seats > Seat Cover > Component Information > Service and Repair > Front
Seat-Back Cover Replacement > Page 7956
NOTE:
- Take care not to tear the seams or damage the seat covers.
1. Remove the seat-back. 2. Remove the screw, then remove the center belt guide (A).
3. From the back of the seat-back, pass four retainers (A) through the slots in the seat-back pad,
and release all the clips (B), and fold back the
4. Pull out the head restraint guides (A) while pinching the end of the guides, and remove them.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Seats > Seat Cover > Component Information > Service and Repair > Front
Seat-Back Cover Replacement > Page 7957
5. Pull back the edge of the seat-back cover (A) all the way around, release the clips (B), and
release the hooks (C) of the horizontal wires (D) from
the vertical wires (E) on the pad, then remove the seat-back cover.
6. Install the cover in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
- To prevent wrinkles when installing a seat-back cover, make sure the material is stretched evenly
over the pad before securing the clips.
- Replace any clips (A) you removed with new ones. Install them with a commercially available
upholstery ring pliers (B).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Seats > Seat Cover > Component Information > Service and Repair > Front
Seat-Back Cover Replacement > Page 7958
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Seats > Seat Cover > Component Information > Service and Repair > Front
Seat-Back Cover Replacement > Page 7959
Seat Cover: Service and Repair Rear Seat Side Bolster Cover Replacement
NOTE: Take care not to tear the seams or damage the seat covers.
1. Remove the seat side bolster. 2. Release all the hook strips (A), and fold back the seat side
bolster cover (B), and release the cover from the hooks (C).
3. Install the cover in the reverse order of removal, and to prevent wrinkles when installing a side
bolster cover, make sure the material is stretched
evenly over the pad before securing the hook strips and staples.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Seats > Seat Cover > Component Information > Service and Repair > Front
Seat-Back Cover Replacement > Page 7960
Seat Cover: Service and Repair
2-door
SRS components are located in this area. Review the SRS component locations and the
precautions and procedures before doing repairs or service.
- Check the operation of the driver's seat position sensor after any of these actions: -
NOTE:
- Take care not to tear the seams or damage the seat covers.
- On the passenger's seat, do not touch the ODS sensor in the seat-back pad, and keep it away
from oil. Oil can corrode the sensor causing it to fail.
1. Remove the front seat. 2. Remove the head restraint. 3. From under the seat cushion,
disconnect and detach the side airbag connector (A).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Seats > Seat Cover > Component Information > Service and Repair > Front
Seat-Back Cover Replacement > Page 7961
4. Release the hook (B) and seat cushion cover (C) from the seat cushion frame spring (D), then
pull the cover back and release the hooks (E).
5. Detach the clips and hooks (A) by pulling the bottom of the back cover (B) back, then gently pull
down the cover to release the hooks (C) from the
6. Release the hook strips (A), then loosen the seat-back cover (B). Pull the side airbag harness
(C) with harness guides (D) out through holes in the
seat cushion cover (E). Passenger's seat is shown; driver's seat is similar.
7. Detach the harness clip (A), and pull the side airbag harness (B) out through the harness hole
(C) in the seat-back cover and seat frame.
8. Remove the side airbag. 9. Release the hook strips (A), then loosen the seat-back cover (B).
Driver's seat is shown; passenger's seat is similar.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Seats > Seat Cover > Component Information > Service and Repair > Front
Seat-Back Cover Replacement > Page 7962
10. Turn over the reinforcing cloth (A), then release the hooks (B) from the side airbag module
holder (C). Passenger's seat is shown; driver's seat is
similar.
11. Passenger's seat: Disconnect the ODS sensor connectors (A) and ODS subharness connector
(B) from the ODS unit (C), and pull them out through
the hole in the seat frame. Pull the ODS subharness (D) out through the harness hole (E) in the
seat-back cover (F). Detach the harness clips (G) and remove the wire tie (H).
12. Pinch the tabs on the ends of the head restraint guides (A), and remove them from the
seat-back.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Seats > Seat Cover > Component Information > Service and Repair > Front
Seat-Back Cover Replacement > Page 7963
13. Remove the seat-back cover/pad (A) from the seat (B).
14. Pull back the edge of the seat-back cover all the way around, and release the clips (A), then
remove the seat-back cover.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Seats > Seat Cover > Component Information > Service and Repair > Front
Seat-Back Cover Replacement > Page 7964
15. Install the cover in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
- To prevent wrinkles when installing a seat-back cover, make sure the material is stretched evenly
over the pad before securing the clips, hooks, and hook strips.
- Replace any clips (A) you removed with new ones. Install them with commercially available
upholstery ring pliers (B).
- Before installing the side airbag (C), make sure the reinforcing cloth (D) is fixed on the seat-back
frame (E) securely.
- Make sure the side airbag harness and ODS subharness (passenger's seat) are routed properly.
4-door
SRS components are located in this area. Review the SRS component locations and the
precautions and procedures before doing repairs or service.
- Check the operation of the driver's seat position sensor after any of these actions: -
- Take care not to tear the seams or damage the seat covers.
- On the passenger's seat, do not touch the OPDS sensor in the seat-back pad, and keep it away
from oil. Oil can corrode the sensor caution it to fail.
1. Remove the front seat. 2. Remove the head restraint. 3. From under the seat cushion, detach
the side airbag connector clip (A).
4. Release the slit in the seat cushion cover (B) from the seat cushion frame spring (C), then pull
the cover back. Release the hooks (D) and remove
5. Detach the clips and hooks (A) by pulling the bottom of the back cover (B) back, then gently pull
down the cover to release the hooks (C) from the
7. Detach the harness clip (A), and pull the side airbag harness (B) out through the harness hole
(C) in the seat-back cover and seat frame.
8. Remove the side airbag. 9. Release the hook strips (A), then loosen the seat-back cover (B).
Driver's seat is shown; passenger's seat is similar.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Seats > Seat Cover > Component Information > Service and Repair > Front
Seat-Back Cover Replacement > Page 7967
10. Turn over the reinforcing cloth (A), then release the hooks (B) from the module holder (C).
11. Passenger's seat: Disconnect the ODS sensor connectors (A) and ODS subharness connector
(B) from the ODS unit (C), and pull them in through
the hole in the seat frame. Pull the ODS subharness (D) out through the harness hole (E) in the
seat-back cover (F). Detach the harness clips (G), and remove the wire tie (H).
12. Pinch the tabs on the ends of the head restraint guides (A), and remove them from the
seat-back.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Seats > Seat Cover > Component Information > Service and Repair > Front
Seat-Back Cover Replacement > Page 7968
13. Remove the seat-back cover/pad (A) from the seat (B).
14. Except Si model: Pull back the edge of the seat-back cover all the way around, and release the
clips (A), then remove the seat-back cover.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Seats > Seat Cover > Component Information > Service and Repair > Front
Seat-Back Cover Replacement > Page 7969
15. Except Si model: Install the cover in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
- To prevent wrinkles when installing a seat-back cover, make sure the material is stretched evenly
over the pad before securing the clips, hooks, and hook strips.
- Before installing the side airbag (B), make sure the reinforcing cloth (C) is fixed on the seat-back
frame (D) securely.
- Make sure the side airbag harness and ODS subharness (passenger's seat) are routed properly.
16. Si model: Pull back the edge of the seat-back cover all the way around, and release the clips
(A), then remove the seat-back cover.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Seats > Seat Cover > Component Information > Service and Repair > Front
Seat-Back Cover Replacement > Page 7970
17. Si model: Install the cover in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
- To prevent wrinkles when installing a seat-back cover, make sure the material is stretched evenly
over the pad before securing the clips, hooks, and hook strips.
- Replace any clips (A) you removed with new ones. Install them with commercially available
upholstery ring pliers (B).
- Before installing the side airbag (C), make sure the reinforcing cloth (D) is fixed on the seat-back
frame (E) securely.
- Make sure the side airbag harness and ODS subharness (passenger's seat) are routed properly.
KTC trim tool set SOJATP2014 * * Available through the American Honda Tool and Equipment
Program.
2-door
SRS components are located in this area. Review the SRS component locations and the
precautions and procedures before doing repairs or service.
- Check the operation of the driver's seat position sensor after any of these actions:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Seats > Seat Cover > Component Information > Service and Repair > Front
Seat-Back Cover Replacement > Page 7971
NOTE:
- Use the appropriate tool from the KTC trim tool set to avoid damage when prying components.
- Take care not to tear the seams of damage the seat covers.
1. Remove the front seat. 2. Remove the front seat belt buckle. 3. Passenger's seat: Remove the
screws, then remove the rear seat access knob (A).
4. Pull back the cap (A) to release the hooks (B), and remove the screws, then remove the height
handle (C).
1. Remove the recline knob (B) and screw (C). 2. Gently pull out the cover, then detach the clips
(D), and release the hooks (E). 3. Release the rear seat access lever (F).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Seats > Seat Cover > Component Information > Service and Repair > Front
Seat-Back Cover Replacement > Page 7972
6. Gently pull out the center cover (A), then detach the clips, and release the hooks (B). Driver's
seat is shown; passenger's seat is similar.
7. From under the seat cushion, disconnect and detach the connectors:
- Passenger's seat: -
- Driver's seat: -
the harness clip (H), and remove the wire ties (I).
9. Pull the side airbag harness (A), ODS subharness (B) (passenger's seat), and harness guides
(C) out through the holes (D) in the seat cushion
cover.
10. Release the hook strips (A, B) from the seat frame (C).
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11. Release the hook (A) from under the seat cushion.
12. Remove the seat cushion cover/pad (A) from the seat frame (B).
13. Release the clips (A) from under the seat cushion (B).
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Seat-Back Cover Replacement > Page 7975
14. Pull back the edge of the seat cushion cover all the way around, and release the clips (A), then
remove the seat cushion cover.
15. Install the cover in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
- To prevent wrinkles when installing a seat cushion cover, make sure the material is stretched
evenly over the pad before securing the clips and hook strips.
- Replace any clips (A) you removed with new ones. Install them with commercially available
upholstery ring pliers (B).
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4-door
SRS components are located in this area. Review the SRS component locations and the
precautions and procedures before doing repairs or service.
- Check the operation of the driver's seat position sensor after any of these actions: -
NOTE:
- Use the appropriate tool from the KTC trim tool set to avoid damage when prying components.
- Take care not to tear the seams of damage the seat covers.
1. Remove the front seat. 2. Remove the front seat belt buckle. 3. Pull back the cap (A) to release
the hooks (B), and remove the screws, then remove the height adjuster handle (C).
1. Remove the recline knob (B) and screw. 2. Gently pull out the cover, then detach the clip, and
release the hooks (C).
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5. Gently pull put the center cover (A), then detach the clip, and release the hooks (B). Driver's seat
is shown; passenger's seat is similar.
6. From under the seat cushion, detach the side airbag connector clip (A).
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7. Release slits in the seat cushion cover (B) from the seat cushion frame spring (C), then pull the
cover back. Release the hooks (D) and remove the
8. Pull the side airbag harness (A) out through the loop (B).
9. Release the hook strips (A, B) from the seat frame (C).
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10. Release the hook (A) from under the seat cushion.
11. Remove the seat cushion cover/pad (A) from the seat frame (B).
12. Except Si model: Release the hooks (A) from under the seat cushion (B).
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13. Except Si model: Pull back the edge of the seat-back cover all the way around, and release the
clips (A), then remove the seat-back cover.
14. Except Si model: Install the cover in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
- To prevent wrinkles when installing a seat-back cover, make sure the material is stretched evenly
over the pad before securing the clips, hooks, and hook strips.
15. Si model: Release the clips (A) from under the seat cushion (B).
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16. Si model: Pull back the edge of the seat cushion cover all the way around, and release the clips
(A), then remove the seat cushion cover.
17. Si model: Install the cover in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
- To prevent wrinkles when installing a seat cushion cover, make sure the material is stretched
evenly over the pad before securing the clips and hook strips.
- Replace any clips (A) you removed with new ones. Install them with commercially available
upholstery ring pliers (B).
NOTE:
- Take care not to tear the seams or damage the seat covers.
1. Remove the seat-back. 2. Remove the screw, then remove the center belt guide (A).
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3. From the back of the seat-back, pass four retainers (A) through the slots in the seat-back pad,
and release all the clips (B), and fold back the
4. Pull out the head restraint guides (A) while pinching the end of the guides, and remove them.
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5. Pull back the edge of the seat-back cover (A) all the way around, release the clips (B), and
release the hooks (C) of the horizontal wires (D) from
the vertical wires (E) on the pad, then remove the seat-back cover.
6. Install the cover in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
- To prevent wrinkles when installing a seat-back cover, make sure the material is stretched evenly
over the pad before securing the clips.
- Replace any clips (A) you removed with new ones. Install them with a commercially available
upholstery ring pliers (B).
NOTE: Take care not to tear the seams or damage the seat covers.
1. Remove the seat side bolster. 2. Release all the hook strips (A), and fold back the seat side
bolster cover (B), and release the cover from the hooks (C).
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3. Install the cover in the reverse order of removal, and to prevent wrinkles when installing a side
bolster cover, make sure the material is stretched
evenly over the pad before securing the hook strips and staples.
NOTE:
- Take care not to tear the seams or damage the seat covers.
1. Remove the seat cushion. 2. From the back of the seat-back, pass both lower retainers (A)
through the slots in the seat cushion pad, and release all the clips (B), and fold back
3. Pull back the edge of the seat cushion cover all the way around, and release the clips (A), from
the seat cushion cover (B) through the hole in the
- To prevent wrinkles when installing a seat cushion cover, make sure the material is stretched
evenly over the pad before securing the clips.
- Replace any clips (A) you removed with new ones. Install them with a commercially available
upholstery ring pliers (B).
NOTE: Take care not to tear the seams or damage the seat covers.
1. Remove the armrest from the seat-back. 2. Remove the armrest beverage holder from the
armrest. 3. Release the clips (A) and hook strip (B), and pull back the armrest cover (C) all the way
around.
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4. Release the armrest cover from the armrest pivot portions (A), then remove it from the pad (B).
5. Install the cover in the reverse order of removal. To prevent wrinkles when installing an armrest
cover, make sure the material is stretched evenly
over the pad before securing the hooks and hook strips.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Seats > Seat Heater > Component Information > Locations
Circuit Schematics
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Circuit Schematics
Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show
current flow, from power at the top of the diagram, to ground at the bottom.
Shared Circuits
Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that
connects one circuit to another, for example, is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it
pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or
component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring, check the operation of a
component it serves. If that component works, you know the shared wiring is OK.
Connectors
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All in-line and junction connectors are numbered (C725, C416, etc.). Component connectors are
not numbered but are identified either by the name of the component if the component only has
one connector, or by a capital letter (A, B, C, etc.) if the component has more than one connector.
Below most connector numbers and component names are PHOTO and VIEW numbers. The
PHOTO number refers to a photo at Vehicle Level Locations that shows the connector's location on
the car. The VIEW number refers to an connector view at the Vehicle Level Connector Views that
shows the connector terminals, wire colors, connector cavity numbers, and other details.
The connector cavity numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector as seen
from either of the viewpoints. Except for the DLC (data link connector), disregard any numbers
molded into the connector housing.
Wires
Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the
stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number "2" next to the male
and female wire terminals at C554, for example, means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector
C554.
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the vehicle. Refer to the Power Distribution Diagram Set to get a more detailed
understanding of how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on. Individual circuit
schematics begin with a fuse. So if Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another
circuit share a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good
and power is available to the inoperative circuit.
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share the same
ground point.
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How to Identify Connector Terminals
Connector terminals are numbered according to the cavities they are in. The cavities are numbered
starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side or looking at the
female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the
same. All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not
the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the
connector face.
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The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown above is #6.
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The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice
connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for
all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement
terminal availability.
On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged,
replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If
any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it.
Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the
wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the
terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to
make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a
factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS.
Use the tools from Pin Tool Set. First, check the connector that you are about to repair.
- If it has a secondary terminal lock, go to Connectors With a Secondary Lock. A secondary lock,
found on most connectors on some models, is an additional locking device on the connector
housing as a backup for the primary lock on the terminal.
- If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock.
All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the
secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the
connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities.
EXAMPLE A:
EXAMPLE B:
EXAMPLE C:
EXAMPLE D:
2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW
TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE E:
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1. Remove the secondary locks.
2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW
TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE F:
3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of
connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary
in size and shape.
EXAMPLE A:
EXAMPLE B:
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1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE C:
EXAMPLE D:
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1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE E:
EXAMPLE F:
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1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE G:
1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct
replacement terminal based on the wire size range
NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part
number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available
through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures.
2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool.
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3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the
wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from
the kit.)
NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did,
cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again.
4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the
anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown
in step 3.
6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact.
- If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool
over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the
stops make contact.
- If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully
squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape.
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8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the following NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and
start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the
way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure
10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector.
Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too
short or when access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair.
On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged,
replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If
any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it.
1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from
Pin Tool Set.
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2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal,
then strip about half of the insulation off that piece.
This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal.
NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will
not nick or cut off any strands of wires.
3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and
same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit
onto the stripped end of the original wire.
5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the
pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more
than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at
the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the
harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make
each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail.
7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends
of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue
NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the
stripper.
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8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the
flare begins), and close the crimper handles far
enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click,
squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open.
9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the
wire all the way into the splice connector, and
squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until
the ratchet clicks again.
10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After
crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the
connector.
12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire(s), and shield them with
nonflammable material.
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13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the
gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat
evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete
when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube.
NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun.
Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the
wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size)
splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select
the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in
quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures.
Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the
Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching
connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body.
1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector.
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2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool.
NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal
because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit.
3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal
with a replacement terminal from the appropriate
Five-Step Troubleshooting
Five-Step Troubleshooting
Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint.
Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
problem area.
Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by
tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground (certain
circuits contain a "How the Circuit Works" Diagram set). Also, trace circuits that share wiring with
the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on,
are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step
1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used
only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely
cause.
Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more
possible causes.
Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple
procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to
make tests at points that are easily accessible.
Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe
procedures.
Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire
problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure
no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur.
Test Equipment
Test Equipment
CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
1O-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up
of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to
various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is
voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital
volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is
between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM).
In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low
resistance means good continuity.
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Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a
reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is
affecting the measurement.
To order any test equipment shown, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool
numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin.
Jumper Wire
Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder
connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire
across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse.
To order any test equipment shown, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool
numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin.
Troubleshooting Precautions
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION: -
Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
- Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles.
2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part
Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place.
CAUTION: -
Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
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- Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-mega
ohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that
contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
Troubleshooting Tests
Troubleshooting Tests
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt
ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest
"OHMS" range.
2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you
want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Seats > Seat Heater > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 8020
4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or
no reading (zero), means good continuity.
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem. Circuits must be operating when checking
voltage drop.
1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts
range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage
is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM
voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Seats > Seat Heater > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 8021
Switch Test/Replacement
1. Remove the center console front panel. 2. Disconnect the 6P (or 7P*) connector from the seat
heater switch (A), then remove the switch.
3. Check for continuity between the terminals in each switch position according to the table.
Driver's
1. Remove the driver's seat. 2. Disconnect the 3P connector (A) and 2P connector (B) from the
seat heater.
3. Check for continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals of the seat-back heater 2P connector
(female terminals). There should be continuity. 4. Reconnect the 2P connector. 5. Check for
continuity between the 3P connector (male terminals) No. 1 terminal and the 2P connector (female
terminals) No. 2 terminal, and the 3P
connector (male terminals) No. 2 and No. 3 terminals. There should be continuity.
Front Passenger's
1. Remove the front passenger's seat. 2. Disconnect the 3P connector (A) from the seat heater.
3. Check for continuity between the 3P connector (male terminals) No. 1 and No. 2 terminals.
There should be continuity. 4. If the continuity is not as specified, replace the seat heater.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Seats > Seat Heater Relay > Component Information > Locations
Use this chart to identify the type of relay, then do the test listed for it.
Normally-open type
- There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when battery positive terminal
is connected to the No. 4 terminal, and battery negative terminal is connected to the No. 3 terminal.
- There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power is disconnected.
Five-terminal type
- There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when battery positive terminal
is connected to the No. 5 terminal, and battery negative terminal is connected to the No. 3 terminal.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Seats > Seat Heater Relay > Component Information > Locations > Page
8031
- There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 4 terminals when power is disconnected.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Seats > Seat Heater Switch > Component Information > Locations
Switch Test/Replacement
1. Remove the center console front panel. 2. Disconnect the 6P (or 7P*) connector from the seat
heater switch (A), then remove the switch.
3. Check for continuity between the terminals in each switch position according to the table.
1. Remove the rear shelf. 2. From the trunk, disconnect the seat-back release cable (A) from the
seat-back latch (B).
3. Remove the bolts, then remove the seat-back latch (A).
4. Install the latch in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
NOTE:
2. From the trunk compartment, disconnect the fuel fill door switch connector (A), and detach the
harness clip (B).
3. Open the fuel fill door, and from the wheel arch, remove the fuel fill door switch (A) by turning it
90 ° from the fuel receptacle adapter (B).
4. From the wheel arch, detach the clips, and remove the grommet (A), then pull the fuel fill door
switch cable (B) out through the hole in the body.
5. Install the switch cable in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
- Check for damages or stress-whitened clips, and replace them with new ones.
- Align the marks (A) on the sensor cable (B) with the cable clips (C) and grommet (D) as shown.
- Make sure the fuel fill door switch connector is plugged in properly.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Sensors and Switches - Body and Frame > Fuel Door Switch > Component
Information > Locations > Page 8051
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Sensors and Switches - Body and Frame > Hood Switch / Sensor > Hood
Sensor/Switch (For Alarm) > Component Information > Locations > Component Locations
199. Door Lock Actuator/Knob Switch, Driver's (LX, GX, EX, Si; Canada: DX-G)
200. Door Lock Actuator/Knob Switch, Front Passenger's (LX, GX, EX, Si; Canada: DX-G)
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Sensors and Switches - Body and Frame > Power Door Lock Switch >
Component Information > Locations > Page 8066
201. Door Lock Actuator/Knob Switch, Left Rear (4-door: LX, GX, EX, Si, Canada DX-G)
202. Door Lock Actuator/Knob Switch, Right Rear (4-door: LX, GX, EX, Si, Canada DX-G)
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Sensors and Switches - Body and Frame > Power Mirror Switch >
Component Information > Locations
Power Mirror Switch: Locations
Front Door
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Sensors and Switches - Body and Frame > Power Mirror Switch >
Component Information > Locations > Page 8072
Doors
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Sensors and Switches - Body and Frame > Power Mirror Switch >
Component Information > Locations > Page 8073
212. Power Mirror Switch (USA: LX, GX, EX, Si; Canada)
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Sensors and Switches - Body and Frame > Power Mirror Switch >
Component Information > Locations > Page 8074
2-door
1. Remove the driver's dashboard lower cover. 2. Disconnect the 13P connector from the power
mirror switch (A).
3. Check for continuity between the terminals in each switch position according to the table.
4. If the continuity is not as specified, remove the screws and replace the power mirror switch.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Sensors and Switches - Body and Frame > Power Trunk / Liftgate Lock
Switch > Component Information > Locations > Component Locations
Power Trunk / Liftgate Lock Switch: Component Locations
127. Trunk Key Cylinder Switch (USA: LX, GX, 4-door EX, 4-door Si)
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Sensors and Switches - Body and Frame > Seat Heater Switch >
Component Information > Locations
Switch Test/Replacement
1. Remove the center console front panel. 2. Disconnect the 6P (or 7P*) connector from the seat
heater switch (A), then remove the switch.
3. Check for continuity between the terminals in each switch position according to the table.
Insulator Locations
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Sound Proofing / Insulation > Component Information > Locations > Page
8094
NOTE:
1. Remove the left rear wheel. 2. Remove the clips, then remove the fuel pipe protector (A).
3. Install the protector in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
- Check if the clips are damaged or stress-whitened, and if necessary, replace them with new ones.
2-door
1. Remove the clips (B, C) that secure the front inner fender (D) and splash shield to the body. 2.
From under the front bumper (E), remove the clips (F). 3. From under the body, remove the clips
(G). 4. Release the hooks (H) of the splash shield, then pull the splash shield out.
NOTE: To remove the clips B, C, F and G, pry the inner the clip up at the edge near the line (I) on
its head.
2. Install the splash shield in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
- Check if the clips are damaged or stress-whitened, and if necessary, replace them with new ones.
4-door
1. Remove the clips (B) that secure the front inner fender (C) and front splash shield to the body. 2.
From under the front bumper (D), remove the clips (E, F). 3. From under the body, remove the clips
(G). 4. Release the hooks (H) of the front splash shield, then pull the splash shield out.
NOTE: To remove the clips B, E, F and G, pry the inner the clip up at the edge near the line (I) on
its head.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Splash Guard > Component Information > Service and Repair > Fuel Pipe
Protector Replacement > Page 8102
2. Install the splash shield in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
- Check if the clips are damaged or stress-whitened, and if necessary, replace them with new ones.
1. Remove the bolts, then remove the rear strake (A) from the body.
1. Remove the clips and bolts, then remove the rear floor undercover (A). Take care not to scratch
the rear bumper (B).
2. Install the cover in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
- Check if the clips are damaged or stress-whitened, and if necessary, replace them with new ones.
NOTE:
1. Open the trunk lid, and remove the nuts from inside the trunk lid, and push out the clips.
2. Close the trunk lid. Pull the trunk lid spoiler (A) up to release the clips from the grommets (B) on
the trunk lid while removing the adhesive tape
3. Install the spoiler in the reverse order of removal. Check if the clips are damaged or
stress-whitened, and if necessary, replace them with new ones.
NOTE:
1. Open the trunk lid, and remove the nut and bolts from inside the trunk lid.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Spoilers, Flaps, and Air Dams > Spoiler > Component Information >
Service and Repair > Page 8109
2. Close the trunk lid. While lifting the trunk lid spoiler (A) up, disconnect the high mount brake light
terminals (B) from the spoiler subharness (C),
3. Install the spoiler in the reverse order of removal, and make sure the high mount brake light
terminals are plugged in properly.
NOTE:
1. Open the trunk lid, and remove the nuts and bolts from inside the trunk lid.
3. Close the trunk lid. While lifting the trunk lid spoiler (A) up, disconnect the high mount brake light
terminals (B) from the spoiler subharness (C),
4. Install the spoiler in the reverse order of removal, and make sure the high mount brake light
terminals are plugged in properly.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Strut / Shock Tower > Component Information > Service and Repair
Removal
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Strut / Shock Tower > Component Information > Service and Repair >
Page 8114
- Remove the wheelhouse upper member, and replace the upper member separator.
- If necessary, replace the damper housing, damper housing extension and front damper extension
A as an assembly.
Installation
1. Clamp the new damper housing, front wheelhouse, front damper extension, front bulkhead, and
measure the front compartment diagonally. 2. Check the body dimensions.
- Engine compartment
3. Tack weld the new parts and front bulkhead into position. 4. Temporarily install the front
subframe, and check the front side frame position. 5. Temporarily install the hood, front fender,
headlight, and front bumper, then check for differences in level and clearance. Make sure the body
lines
flow smoothly.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Strut / Shock Tower > Component Information > Service and Repair >
Page 8116
6. Do the main welding.
- Weld the damper housing (A), front wheelhouse (B), front damper extension A (C) and front
damper extension B (D).
- From the passenger's side, plug weld the holes in the dashboard lower (E) and damper housing
extension (F).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Strut / Shock Tower > Component Information > Service and Repair >
Page 8117
7. Weld the front damper extension B (A) and front end outrigger (B).
Passenger's Side
8. Install the new upper member separator (A) to the damper extension bulkhead (B).
NOTE: Apply the sealer (C) all the way around the separator and inside of the wheelhouse upper
member (D), without gaps.
1. Turn on the wiper switch, and move the windshield wiper arms 90°. 2. Remove the center cowl
cover (A).
1. Remove the hood rear seal (B) by pulling it out. 2. Remove the clips (C). 3. Release three front
hooks (D) from the edge of the under-cowl panel (E). 4. Detach the clips (F, G) by carefully pulling
the cover up, then remove the cover by releasing the hooks (H). Take care not to scratch the body.
3. Disconnect the windshield washer tube (I). 4. If necessary, remove the bolts (A, B), then remove
the under-cowl panel (C).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Unibody > Cowl > Cowl Moulding / Trim > System Information > Service
and Repair > Page 8123
6. Detach the clips by carefully pulling the side cowl cover (A) up, then remove the cover by
releasing the hooks (B) from the front fender. Take care
not to scratch the body. Repeat this step for the other side cowl cover, and disconnect the
windshield washer tube.
7. Install the parts in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
- Check if the clips are damaged or stress-whitened, and if necessary, replace them with new ones.
NOTE:
- Put on gloves to protect your hands.
2. Detach the clips (B, C, D, E), then remove the door weatherstrip (F). 3. Install the weatherstrip in
the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
- Check if the clips are damaged or stress-whitened, and if necessary, replace them with new ones.
- Apply medium strength type liquid thread lock to door checker mounting bolt before installation.
- When reinstalling the door panel, make sure the plastic cover is installed properly and sealed
around its outside perimeter to seal out water.
10-011
March 5, 2010
Service Manual Update: Power Window Goes Up and Reverses On Its Own, Is Slow to Open and
Close, or Squeals, Creaks, Clunks, or Clicks
BACKGROUND
The information in this service bulletin addresses three power window problems that are not
currently covered in the service manuals.
VEHICLES AFFECTED
SYMPTOM 1
When using the auto-up function, the driver's or front passenger's window goes up and then
reverses on its own.
PROBABLE CAUSE
The power window control unit needs to be reset, or the run channel is damaged/dirty.
NOTE:
Do the power window control unit reset procedure first. If the window still doesn't work, go to
Symptom 2.
REPAIR PROCEDURE
NOTE:
You must do the manual reset from the power window switch at the affected window. For example,
if you're resetting the front passenger's power window control unit, do it from the front passenger's
power window switch, not the driver's power window master switch.
1. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II).
2. Lower the window all the way down with the power window switch.
NOTE:
Do steps 4 thru 7 within 5 seconds of each other. Do these steps a total of four times in a row.
These steps clear the control unit's memory.
NOTE:
Make sure the auto-up feature doesn't work. If it does, do steps 4 thru 7 again, paying close
attention to the 5-second time limit for up to three more times for each series of steps.
8. Lower the window all the way down with the power window switch.
9. Pull up and hold the power window switch until the window goes all the way up, then keep
holding the switch for 1 second.
NOTE:
Make sure the auto-up/down feature works correctly by lowering and raising the window with the
power window switch. If it doesn't work correctly, repeat the manual reset several times, paying
close attention to the 5-second time limit. If it still doesn't work, troubleshoot the power window
circuit. Then continue with Symptom 2.
SYMPTOM 2
PROBABLE CAUSE
REQUIRED MATERIALS
NOTE:
Aftermarket window tinting will also cause the window to move slower and is not covered by the
manufacturer's warranty. No repair attempts should be made if the window has aftermarket tinting.
1. Compare the up and down speed of the affected window to another like vehicle:
^ If the speed is the same as the other vehicle, no further troubleshooting is required.
^ If the speed is not the same, remove the door panel and the door glass, then check the window
regulator speed.
^ If the speed is the same as it was with the glass in place, replace the window regulator.
NOTE:
When evaluating regulator performance without the glass, never allow the regulator to travel to the
full up position because damage can occur to the regulator.
3. Reinstall the glass into the door without bolting it to the regulator, then manually slide it through
its range of travel and check for excessive
resistance:
4. Inspect the run channel alignment, both inside and outside the door. Pay close attention just
below the door skin; this is a common area for the run
channel to be pinched.
^ If the run channel is pinched, replace it, then adjust the run channels and the glass as needed.
5. Clean the run channel using a soapy water solution, then apply Shin-Etsu grease. You may also
need to clean the portion of the run channel within the
door.
SYMPTOM 3
REQUIRED MATERIALS
REPAIR PROCEDURE
^ If the noise is the same, no repair is needed. Advise the customer that some noise is a normal
characteristic.
4. Unbolt the glass from the regulator, then manually slide it through its travel to check for
excessive resistance.
5. Clean the run channel using a soapy water solution, then apply Shin-Etsu grease inside the
channel. You may also need to clean the portion of the run
^ If the window operates normally after cleaning and applying grease, no further action is required.
6. Inspect the run channel alignment, both inside and outside the door. Pay close attention just
below the door skin; this is a common area for the run
channel to be pinched.
Front Door Window Glass Weatherstrip: Service and Repair Door Glass Outer Weatherstrip
Replacement
2-door
NOTE:
1. Lower the glass fully. 2. Remove the door sash outer trim. 3. Starting at the rear, slowly pull up
the door glass outer weatherstrip (A).
4. Release the front portion of the glass outer molding (A) from the power mirror (B).
4-door
NOTE:
1. Lower the glass fully. 2. Release the front hook (A) from inside of the door, then pull up the front
door glass outer weatherstrip (B).
3. Starting at the front, slowly pull up the front door glass outer weatherstrip (A).
5. Twist the front door glass outer weatherstrip (A) to pull the rear hook (B) out from the inside of
the door, then remove the weatherstrip.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Weatherstrip > Front Door Window Glass Weatherstrip > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Door Glass Outer Weatherstrip Replacement > Page 8140
6. Push the clip portions of new front door glass outer weatherstrip into place securely.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Weatherstrip > Rear Door Weatherstrip > Component Information > Service
and Repair
NOTE:
2. Detach the clips (B, C, D), then remove the door weatherstrip (E). 3. Install the weatherstrip in
the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
- Check if the clips are damaged or stress-whitened, and if necessary, replace them with new ones.
- Apply medium strength type liquid thread lock to the door checker mounting bolt before
installation.
10-011
March 5, 2010
Service Manual Update: Power Window Goes Up and Reverses On Its Own, Is Slow to Open and
Close, or Squeals, Creaks, Clunks, or Clicks
BACKGROUND
The information in this service bulletin addresses three power window problems that are not
currently covered in the service manuals.
VEHICLES AFFECTED
SYMPTOM 1
When using the auto-up function, the driver's or front passenger's window goes up and then
reverses on its own.
PROBABLE CAUSE
The power window control unit needs to be reset, or the run channel is damaged/dirty.
NOTE:
Do the power window control unit reset procedure first. If the window still doesn't work, go to
Symptom 2.
REPAIR PROCEDURE
NOTE:
You must do the manual reset from the power window switch at the affected window. For example,
if you're resetting the front passenger's power window control unit, do it from the front passenger's
power window switch, not the driver's power window master switch.
1. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II).
2. Lower the window all the way down with the power window switch.
NOTE:
Do steps 4 thru 7 within 5 seconds of each other. Do these steps a total of four times in a row.
These steps clear the control unit's memory.
NOTE:
Make sure the auto-up feature doesn't work. If it does, do steps 4 thru 7 again, paying close
attention to the 5-second time limit for up to three more times for each series of steps.
8. Lower the window all the way down with the power window switch.
9. Pull up and hold the power window switch until the window goes all the way up, then keep
holding the switch for 1 second.
NOTE:
Make sure the auto-up/down feature works correctly by lowering and raising the window with the
power window switch. If it doesn't work correctly, repeat the manual reset several times, paying
close attention to the 5-second time limit. If it still doesn't work, troubleshoot the power window
circuit. Then continue with Symptom 2.
SYMPTOM 2
PROBABLE CAUSE
REQUIRED MATERIALS
NOTE:
Aftermarket window tinting will also cause the window to move slower and is not covered by the
manufacturer's warranty. No repair attempts should be made if the window has aftermarket tinting.
1. Compare the up and down speed of the affected window to another like vehicle:
^ If the speed is the same as the other vehicle, no further troubleshooting is required.
^ If the speed is not the same, remove the door panel and the door glass, then check the window
regulator speed.
^ If the speed is the same as it was with the glass in place, replace the window regulator.
NOTE:
When evaluating regulator performance without the glass, never allow the regulator to travel to the
full up position because damage can occur to the regulator.
3. Reinstall the glass into the door without bolting it to the regulator, then manually slide it through
its range of travel and check for excessive
resistance:
4. Inspect the run channel alignment, both inside and outside the door. Pay close attention just
below the door skin; this is a common area for the run
channel to be pinched.
^ If the run channel is pinched, replace it, then adjust the run channels and the glass as needed.
5. Clean the run channel using a soapy water solution, then apply Shin-Etsu grease. You may also
need to clean the portion of the run channel within the
door.
SYMPTOM 3
REQUIRED MATERIALS
REPAIR PROCEDURE
^ If the noise is the same, no repair is needed. Advise the customer that some noise is a normal
characteristic.
4. Unbolt the glass from the regulator, then manually slide it through its travel to check for
excessive resistance.
5. Clean the run channel using a soapy water solution, then apply Shin-Etsu grease inside the
channel. You may also need to clean the portion of the run
^ If the window operates normally after cleaning and applying grease, no further action is required.
6. Inspect the run channel alignment, both inside and outside the door. Pay close attention just
below the door skin; this is a common area for the run
channel to be pinched.
4-door
NOTE:
- Door panel
- Plastic cover
- Quarter glass
2. Release the front hook (A) from inside of the door, then pull up the front portion of the rear door
glass outer weatherstrip (B).
3. Starting at the front, slowly pull up the rear door glass outer weatherstrip (A).
4. Push the rear hook (A) out from inside of the door, then remove the rear door glass outer
weatherstrip (B).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Weatherstrip > Rear Door Window Glass Weatherstrip > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 8153
5. Push the clip portions of the rear door glass outer weatherstrip into place securely.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Weatherstrip > Trunk / Liftgate Weatherstrip > Component Information >
Service and Repair
2. Apply clear weatherstrip sealant (B) into the channel of the trunk lid weatherstrip all the way
around. 3. Locate the painted alignment mark (C or D) on the trunk lid weatherstrip. Align the
painted mark in the center of the trunk lid opening, and install
the trunk lid weatherstrip all the way around in the direction shown. Make sure there are no
wrinkles in the weatherstrip.
2. Remove the clutch pedal position switch. 3. Check for continuity between the terminals
according to the table.
- If the continuity is not as specified, replace the clutch pedal position switch.
- If OK, install the clutch pedal position switch, and adjust the pedal height.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Cruise Control > Cruise Control Switch > Component Information > Locations
SRS components are located in this area. Review the SRS component locations, and precautions
and procedures, before doing repairs or service.
1. Remove the driver's airbag. 2. Disconnect the connectors (A), then remove the steering wheel
trim (B).
4. Check for continuity between the terminals in each switch position according to the table.
- If there is continuity,and it matches the table, but switch failure occurred on the cruise control
input test, check and repair the wire harness on the switch circuit.
SRS components are located in this area. Review the SRS component locations, and precautions
and procedures, before doing repairs or service.
1. Remove the driver's airbag. 2. Disconnect the connectors (A), then remove the steering wheel
trim (B).
4. Check for continuity between the terminals in each switch position according to the table.
- If there is continuity,and it matches the table, but switch failure occurred on the cruise control
input test, check and repair the wire harness on the switch circuit.
2. Remove the clutch pedal position switch. 3. Check for continuity between the terminals
according to the table.
- If the continuity is not as specified, replace the clutch pedal position switch.
- If OK, install the clutch pedal position switch, and adjust the pedal height.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Cruise Control > Sensors and Switches - Cruise Control > Cruise Control Switch > Component
Information > Locations
SRS components are located in this area. Review the SRS component locations, and precautions
and procedures, before doing repairs or service.
1. Remove the driver's airbag. 2. Disconnect the connectors (A), then remove the steering wheel
trim (B).
4. Check for continuity between the terminals in each switch position according to the table.
- If there is continuity,and it matches the table, but switch failure occurred on the cruise control
input test, check and repair the wire harness on the switch circuit.
SRS components are located in this area. Review the SRS component locations, and precautions
and procedures, before doing repairs or service.
1. Remove the driver's airbag. 2. Disconnect the connectors (A), then remove the steering wheel
trim (B).
4. Check for continuity between the terminals in each switch position according to the table.
- If there is continuity,and it matches the table, but switch failure occurred on the cruise control
input test, check and repair the wire harness on the switch circuit.
- With navigation
- Without navigation
2. Remove the screws (A) and the passenger's airbag cutoff indicator (B) from center panel.
3. Check for continuity between the No. 2 and No. 3 terminals of the indicator. If there is no
continuity, replace the bulb. 4. Reinstall the parts in the reverse order of removal.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Brake Warning Indicator > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions
Brake Warning Indicator: Diagram Information and Instructions
Circuit Schematics
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
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Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8187
Circuit Schematics
Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show
current flow, from power at the top of the diagram, to ground at the bottom.
Shared Circuits
Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that
connects one circuit to another, for example, is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it
pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or
component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring, check the operation of a
component it serves. If that component works, you know the shared wiring is OK.
Connectors
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Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8188
All in-line and junction connectors are numbered (C725, C416, etc.). Component connectors are
not numbered but are identified either by the name of the component if the component only has
one connector, or by a capital letter (A, B, C, etc.) if the component has more than one connector.
Below most connector numbers and component names are PHOTO and VIEW numbers. The
PHOTO number refers to a photo at Vehicle Level Locations that shows the connector's location on
the car. The VIEW number refers to an connector view at the Vehicle Level Connector Views that
shows the connector terminals, wire colors, connector cavity numbers, and other details.
The connector cavity numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector as seen
from either of the viewpoints. Except for the DLC (data link connector), disregard any numbers
molded into the connector housing.
Wires
Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the
stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number "2" next to the male
and female wire terminals at C554, for example, means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector
C554.
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the vehicle. Refer to the Power Distribution Diagram Set to get a more detailed
understanding of how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on. Individual circuit
schematics begin with a fuse. So if Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another
circuit share a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good
and power is available to the inoperative circuit.
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share the same
ground point.
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Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8190
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Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8191
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Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8192
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Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8193
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Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8194
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Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8195
How to Identify Connector Terminals
Connector terminals are numbered according to the cavities they are in. The cavities are numbered
starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side or looking at the
female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the
same. All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not
the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the
connector face.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Brake Warning Indicator > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8196
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown above is #6.
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Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8197
The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice
connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for
all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement
terminal availability.
On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged,
replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If
any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it.
Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the
wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the
terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to
make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a
factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS.
Use the tools from Pin Tool Set. First, check the connector that you are about to repair.
- If it has a secondary terminal lock, go to Connectors With a Secondary Lock. A secondary lock,
found on most connectors on some models, is an additional locking device on the connector
housing as a backup for the primary lock on the terminal.
- If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock.
All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the
secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the
connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities.
EXAMPLE A:
EXAMPLE B:
EXAMPLE C:
EXAMPLE D:
2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW
TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE E:
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Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8201
1. Remove the secondary locks.
2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW
TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE F:
3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of
connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary
in size and shape.
EXAMPLE A:
EXAMPLE B:
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Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8203
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE C:
EXAMPLE D:
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Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8204
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE E:
EXAMPLE F:
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Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8205
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE G:
1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct
replacement terminal based on the wire size range
NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part
number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available
through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures.
2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool.
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Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8206
3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the
wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from
the kit.)
NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did,
cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again.
4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the
anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown
in step 3.
6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact.
- If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool
over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the
stops make contact.
- If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully
squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape.
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Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8207
8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the following NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and
start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the
way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure
10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector.
Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too
short or when access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair.
On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged,
replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If
any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it.
1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from
Pin Tool Set.
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Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8208
2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal,
then strip about half of the insulation off that piece.
This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal.
NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will
not nick or cut off any strands of wires.
3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and
same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit
onto the stripped end of the original wire.
5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the
pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more
than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at
the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the
harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make
each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail.
7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends
of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue
NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the
stripper.
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Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8209
8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the
flare begins), and close the crimper handles far
enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click,
squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open.
9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the
wire all the way into the splice connector, and
squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until
the ratchet clicks again.
10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After
crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the
connector.
12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire(s), and shield them with
nonflammable material.
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Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8210
13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the
gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat
evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete
when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube.
NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun.
Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the
wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size)
splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select
the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in
quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures.
Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the
Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching
connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body.
1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector.
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Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8211
2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool.
NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal
because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit.
3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal
with a replacement terminal from the appropriate
Five-Step Troubleshooting
Five-Step Troubleshooting
Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint.
Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
problem area.
Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by
tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground (certain
circuits contain a "How the Circuit Works" Diagram set). Also, trace circuits that share wiring with
the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on,
are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step
1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used
only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely
cause.
Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more
possible causes.
Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple
procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to
make tests at points that are easily accessible.
Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe
procedures.
Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire
problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure
no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur.
Test Equipment
Test Equipment
CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
1O-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up
of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to
various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is
voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital
volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is
between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM).
In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low
resistance means good continuity.
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Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a
reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is
affecting the measurement.
To order any test equipment shown, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool
numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin.
Jumper Wire
Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder
connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire
across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse.
To order any test equipment shown, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool
numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin.
Troubleshooting Precautions
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION: -
Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
- Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles.
2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part
Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place.
CAUTION: -
Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
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Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8213
- Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-mega
ohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that
contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
Troubleshooting Tests
Troubleshooting Tests
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt
ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest
"OHMS" range.
2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you
want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end.
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Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8214
4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or
no reading (zero), means good continuity.
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem. Circuits must be operating when checking
voltage drop.
1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts
range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage
is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM
voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
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Circuit Schematics
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Circuit Schematics
Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show
current flow, from power at the top of the diagram, to ground at the bottom.
Shared Circuits
Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that
connects one circuit to another, for example, is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it
pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or
component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring, check the operation of a
component it serves. If that component works, you know the shared wiring is OK.
Connectors
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Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8221
All in-line and junction connectors are numbered (C725, C416, etc.). Component connectors are
not numbered but are identified either by the name of the component if the component only has
one connector, or by a capital letter (A, B, C, etc.) if the component has more than one connector.
Below most connector numbers and component names are PHOTO and VIEW numbers. The
PHOTO number refers to a photo at Vehicle Level Locations that shows the connector's location on
the car. The VIEW number refers to an connector view at the Vehicle Level Connector Views that
shows the connector terminals, wire colors, connector cavity numbers, and other details.
The connector cavity numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector as seen
from either of the viewpoints. Except for the DLC (data link connector), disregard any numbers
molded into the connector housing.
Wires
Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the
stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number "2" next to the male
and female wire terminals at C554, for example, means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector
C554.
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the vehicle. Refer to the Power Distribution Diagram Set to get a more detailed
understanding of how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on. Individual circuit
schematics begin with a fuse. So if Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another
circuit share a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good
and power is available to the inoperative circuit.
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share the same
ground point.
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How to Identify Connector Terminals
Connector terminals are numbered according to the cavities they are in. The cavities are numbered
starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side or looking at the
female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the
same. All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not
the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the
connector face.
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The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown above is #6.
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Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8230
The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice
connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for
all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement
terminal availability.
On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged,
replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If
any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it.
Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the
wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the
terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to
make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a
factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS.
Use the tools from Pin Tool Set. First, check the connector that you are about to repair.
- If it has a secondary terminal lock, go to Connectors With a Secondary Lock. A secondary lock,
found on most connectors on some models, is an additional locking device on the connector
housing as a backup for the primary lock on the terminal.
- If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock.
All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the
secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the
connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities.
EXAMPLE A:
EXAMPLE B:
EXAMPLE C:
EXAMPLE D:
2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW
TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE E:
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Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8234
1. Remove the secondary locks.
2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW
TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE F:
3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of
connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary
in size and shape.
EXAMPLE A:
EXAMPLE B:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Cigarette Lighter > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8236
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE C:
EXAMPLE D:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Cigarette Lighter > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8237
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE E:
EXAMPLE F:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Cigarette Lighter > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8238
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE G:
1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct
replacement terminal based on the wire size range
NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part
number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available
through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures.
2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Cigarette Lighter > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8239
3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the
wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from
the kit.)
NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did,
cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again.
4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the
anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown
in step 3.
6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact.
- If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool
over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the
stops make contact.
- If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully
squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape.
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Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8240
8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the following NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and
start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the
way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure
10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector.
Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too
short or when access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair.
On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged,
replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If
any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it.
1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from
Pin Tool Set.
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Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8241
2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal,
then strip about half of the insulation off that piece.
This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal.
NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will
not nick or cut off any strands of wires.
3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and
same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit
onto the stripped end of the original wire.
5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the
pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more
than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at
the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the
harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make
each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail.
7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends
of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue
NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the
stripper.
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Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8242
8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the
flare begins), and close the crimper handles far
enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click,
squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open.
9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the
wire all the way into the splice connector, and
squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until
the ratchet clicks again.
10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After
crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the
connector.
12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire(s), and shield them with
nonflammable material.
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Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8243
13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the
gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat
evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete
when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube.
NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun.
Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the
wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size)
splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select
the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in
quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures.
Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the
Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching
connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body.
1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
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Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8244
2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool.
NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal
because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit.
3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal
with a replacement terminal from the appropriate
Five-Step Troubleshooting
Five-Step Troubleshooting
Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint.
Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
problem area.
Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by
tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground (certain
circuits contain a "How the Circuit Works" Diagram set). Also, trace circuits that share wiring with
the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on,
are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step
1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used
only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely
cause.
Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more
possible causes.
Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple
procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to
make tests at points that are easily accessible.
Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe
procedures.
Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire
problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure
no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur.
Test Equipment
Test Equipment
CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
1O-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up
of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to
various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is
voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital
volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is
between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM).
In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low
resistance means good continuity.
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Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8245
Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a
reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is
affecting the measurement.
To order any test equipment shown, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool
numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin.
Jumper Wire
Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder
connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire
across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse.
To order any test equipment shown, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool
numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin.
Troubleshooting Precautions
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION: -
Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
- Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles.
2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part
Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place.
CAUTION: -
Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
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Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8246
- Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-mega
ohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that
contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
Troubleshooting Tests
Troubleshooting Tests
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt
ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest
"OHMS" range.
2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you
want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end.
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4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or
no reading (zero), means good continuity.
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem. Circuits must be operating when checking
voltage drop.
1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts
range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage
is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM
voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
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Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8248
Diagram 155-0
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Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8250
Diagram 155-1
Diagrams: Other diagrams referred to by number (See Diagram ##-#, etc.) within these diagrams
can be found at Diagrams by Number. See: Diagrams/Electrical Diagrams/Diagrams By Number
Locations: Location photographs (references to PHOTOS) referred to within these diagrams can be
found at Locations by Photo Number. See: Locations/Component Locations/Locations By Photo
Number
Connector Views: Connector terminal views (references to VIEWS) referred to within these
diagrams can be found at Connector Views by View Number. See: Diagrams/Connector
Views/Connector Views By View Number
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Clock > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Clock: > 08-084 > Nov > 08 > Instruments - Time On Display Randomly
Changes
08-084
November 4, 2008
SYMPTOM
The customer notices that the clock shown on the subdisplay, the audio unit, or the navigation
screen randomly changes time, but never by exactly 1 hour.
PROBABLE CAUSE
There is a problem with the real-time clock circuit in the navigation unit.
VEHICLES AFFECTED
CORRECTIVE ACTION
PARTS INFORMATION
For information on navigation unit ordering, see Service Bulletin 06-001, Audio, Navigation, and
RES Unit In-Warranty Exchange, and Audio and DVD Player Out-of-Warranty Repair.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Clock > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Clock: > 08-084 > Nov > 08 > Instruments - Time On Display Randomly
Changes > Page 8259
Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request
consideration, and get a decision, before starting work.
DIAGNOSIS
NOTE:
If the customer complains the clock jumps by an hour, this bulletin does not apply. It is likely one of
the following:
- A time zone issue. If the customer lives or works close to a time zone boundary, the clock may
jump forward or back by one hour. Select Setup, then Clock Adjustment, and make sure Auto Time
Zone is set to OFF.
- Daylight saving time issue. Refer to Service Bulletin 07-026, Navigation Software Updates for
Daylight Saving Time (DST), DVD Read Error Message, and Other Listed Symptoms. After
applying the bulletin, select Setup, then Clock Adjustment, and make sure Daylight Savings is set
to ON.
When the symptom is occuring, typically when the ignition switch is first turned to ON (II), press the
SETUP button, then select Time Adjustment.
Is the clock time displayed the same incorrect time as the clock adjustment screen, and do they
jump together?
Yes - Go to REPAIR PROCEDURE.
No -
- If the symptom cannot be duplicated, it is an intermittent failure and the vehicle is OK at this time.
If the vehicle returns with the same complaint, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE.
- If the times are different between the navigation time adjustment screen and the sub-display or
audio unit display, this bulletin does not apply. Continue with normal troubleshooting.
REPAIR PROCEDURE
- Online, enter keywords NAVI REMOVAL, and select Navigation Unit Removal/Installation from
the list.
2. To avoid comebacks, check online, and apply any navigation patches or software updates for
the navigation unit. Online, enter keyword
SOFTWARE and select any applicable service bulletins from the list.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Clock > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Clock: > 08-084 > Nov > 08 > Instruments - Time On Display Randomly
Changes > Page 8260
Disclaimer
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Clock > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Clock: > 08-084 > Nov > 08 > Instruments - Time On
Display Randomly Changes
Clock: All Technical Service Bulletins Instruments - Time On Display Randomly Changes
08-084
November 4, 2008
SYMPTOM
The customer notices that the clock shown on the subdisplay, the audio unit, or the navigation
screen randomly changes time, but never by exactly 1 hour.
PROBABLE CAUSE
There is a problem with the real-time clock circuit in the navigation unit.
VEHICLES AFFECTED
CORRECTIVE ACTION
PARTS INFORMATION
For information on navigation unit ordering, see Service Bulletin 06-001, Audio, Navigation, and
RES Unit In-Warranty Exchange, and Audio and DVD Player Out-of-Warranty Repair.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Clock > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Clock: > 08-084 > Nov > 08 > Instruments - Time On
Display Randomly Changes > Page 8266
Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request
consideration, and get a decision, before starting work.
DIAGNOSIS
NOTE:
If the customer complains the clock jumps by an hour, this bulletin does not apply. It is likely one of
the following:
- A time zone issue. If the customer lives or works close to a time zone boundary, the clock may
jump forward or back by one hour. Select Setup, then Clock Adjustment, and make sure Auto Time
Zone is set to OFF.
- Daylight saving time issue. Refer to Service Bulletin 07-026, Navigation Software Updates for
Daylight Saving Time (DST), DVD Read Error Message, and Other Listed Symptoms. After
applying the bulletin, select Setup, then Clock Adjustment, and make sure Daylight Savings is set
to ON.
When the symptom is occuring, typically when the ignition switch is first turned to ON (II), press the
SETUP button, then select Time Adjustment.
Is the clock time displayed the same incorrect time as the clock adjustment screen, and do they
jump together?
Yes - Go to REPAIR PROCEDURE.
No -
- If the symptom cannot be duplicated, it is an intermittent failure and the vehicle is OK at this time.
If the vehicle returns with the same complaint, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE.
- If the times are different between the navigation time adjustment screen and the sub-display or
audio unit display, this bulletin does not apply. Continue with normal troubleshooting.
REPAIR PROCEDURE
- Online, enter keywords NAVI REMOVAL, and select Navigation Unit Removal/Installation from
the list.
2. To avoid comebacks, check online, and apply any navigation patches or software updates for
the navigation unit. Online, enter keyword
SOFTWARE and select any applicable service bulletins from the list.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Clock > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Clock: > 08-084 > Nov > 08 > Instruments - Time On
Display Randomly Changes > Page 8267
Disclaimer
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Dashboard / Instrument Panel > Air
Bag(s) Arming and Disarming > System Information > Service and Repair
General Precautions
Please read the following precautions carefully before performing the airbag system service. If the
instructions described are not properly followed, the airbags could accidentally deploy and cause
damage or injuries.
- Except when performing electrical inspections, always turn the ignition switch OFF, disconnect
the negative cable from the battery, then wait for 3 minutes before starting work.
NOTE: The SRS memory is not cleared even if the ignition switch is turned OFF or the battery
cables are disconnected from the battery.
- Use replacement parts which are manufactured to the same standards and quality as the original
parts. Do not install used SRS parts. Use only new parts when making SRS repairs.
- Carefully inspect any SRS part before you install it. Do not install any part that shows signs of
being dropped or improperly handled, such as dents, cracks or deformation.
- Before disconnecting the SRS unit connectors, always disconnect the appropriate SRS parts
connectors.
- Use only a digital multimeter to check the system. If it is not a Honda multimeter, make sure its
output is 10 mA (0.01 A) or less when switched to the lowest value in the ohmmeter range. A tester
with a higher output could cause accidental deployment and possible injury.
- The original audio and navigation system has a coded theft protection circuit. Make sure you have
the anti-theft codes for the audio system or the navigation system (if equipped), then write down
the audio presets before disconnecting the negative cable from the battery.
- Before returning the vehicle to the customer, enter the anti-theft codes for the audio system or the
navigation system (if equipped), then enter the audio presets; set the clock.
Steering-related Precautions
- Misalignment of the cable reel could cause an open in the wiring, making the SRS system, remote
steering wheel controls, and the horn inoperative. Center the cable reel whenever you do the
following. -
- If the cable reel shows any signs of damage, replace it with a new one. For example, if it does not
rotate smoothly, replace the cable reel.
Do not disassemble an airbag. It has no serviceable parts. Once an airbag has been deployed, it
cannot be repaired or reused.
For temporary storage of an airbag during service, observe the following precautions.
- Store the removed airbag with the pad surface up. Never put anything on the airbag.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Dashboard / Instrument Panel > Air
Bag(s) Arming and Disarming > System Information > Service and Repair > Page 8272
- To prevent damage to the airbag, keep it away from any oil, grease, detergent, or water.
- Store the removed airbag on a secure, flat surface away from any high heat source (exceeding
200 °F/93 °C)
- Do not position yourself in front of the airbag during removal, inspection, or replacement.
- The side curtain airbag inflator assembly is a long, jointed part containing an inflator (A), a flexible
bag (B), and brackets (C). When removing or installing the side curtain airbag assembly, never do
the following items: -
- Turn the ignition switch OFF, disconnect the negative cable from the battery then wait for 3
minutes before starting installation or replacement of the SRS unit, or disconnecting the connectors
from the SRS unit.
- Be careful not to bump or impact the SRS unit, front impact sensors, side impact sensors, or rear
safing sensor whenever the ignition switch is ON (II), or for at least 3 minutes after the ignition
switch is turned OFF.
- During installation or replacement, be careful not to bump (by impact wrench, hammer, etc.) the
area around the SRS unit, front impact sensors, the side impact sensors, or rear safing sensor. The
airbags could accidentally deploy and cause damage or injury.
- After a collision where a front airbag, side airbag or a seat belt tensioner, seat belt buckle
tensioner deployed, go to Component Replacement/Inspection After Deployment. See: Restraint
Systems/Air Bag Systems/Service and Repair After a collision where the airbags did not deploy,
inspect for any damage or any deformation on the SRS unit, front impact sensors, side impact
sensors, or rear safing sensor. If there is any damage, replace the SRS unit and/or the sensors.
- Do not disassemble the SRS unit, front impact sensors, side impact sensors, driver's seat position
sensor, front passenger's weight sensors, or rear safing sensor.
- Be sure the SRS unit, front impact sensors, side impact sensors, and rear safing sensor are
installed securely with the mounting bolts torqued to 9.8 N.m (1.0 kgf.m, 7.2 lbf.ft). Whenever you
remove or replace the SRS unit, safing sensor, or all impact sensors, always install the
components with new bolts.
- Do not spill water or oil on the SRS unit or the side impact sensors.
Wiring Precautions
Some of the SRS wiring can be identified by special yellow outer covering, and the SRS
connectors can be identified by their yellow color. Observe the instructions.
- Never attempt to modify, splice, or repair SRS wiring. If there is an open or damage in SRS
wiring, replace the harness.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Dashboard / Instrument Panel > Air
Bag(s) Arming and Disarming > System Information > Service and Repair > Page 8274
- Be sure to install the harness wires so they do not get pinched or interfere with other parts.
- Make sure all SRS ground locations are clean, and grounds are securely fastened for optimum
metal-to-metal contact. Poor grounds can cause intermittent problems that are difficult to diagnose.
- When using electrical test equipment, insert the probe of the tester into the wire side of the
connector. Do not insert the probe of the tester into the terminal side of the connector, and do not
tamper with the connector.
- Use specified service connectors in troubleshooting. Using improper tools could cause an error in
inspection due to poor metal-to-metal contact.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Dashboard / Instrument Panel > Air
Bag(s) Arming and Disarming > System Information > Service and Repair > Page 8275
Spring-loaded Lock Connector
Disconnecting
To release the lock, pull the spring-loaded sleeve (A) toward the stop (B) while holding the opposite
half of the connector. Then pull the connector halves apart. Be sure to pull on the sleeve and not
on the connector.
Connecting
To reconnect, hold the pawl-side connector, and press on the back of the sleeve-side connector in
the direction shown. As the two connector halves are pressed together, the sleeve (A) is pushed
back by the pawl (B). Do not touch the sleeve.
Disconnecting
To release the lock, pull the spring-loaded sleeve (A) toward the stop (B) while holding the opposite
half of the connector. Then pull the connector halves apart. Be sure to pull on the sleeve and not
on the connector half.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Dashboard / Instrument Panel > Air
Bag(s) Arming and Disarming > System Information > Service and Repair > Page 8276
Connecting
Hold both connector halves, and press them firmly together until the projection (A) of the
sleeve-side connector clicks.
NOTE:
- To prevent damaging of the connector cavity, insert the short canceller straight into the cavity
from the terminal side.
- Before installing the short canceller, wash it with electric contact cleaner, then dry it with
compressed air.
When SRS unit connectors A (28P) or B (28P) are disconnected, a short circuit is created in the
connector by its own function to prevent an airbag deployment. The circuit may need to be open
sometimes when diagnosis is done on the system. Insert the short canceller (070AZ-SAA0100) in
the specified cavities when it is necessary to keep the circuit open for diagnosis.
Terminal numbers are shown from the wire side of the female terminals. Insert the short
canceller(s) into the cavities on the terminal side of the connector.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Dashboard / Instrument Panel > Air
Bag(s) Arming and Disarming > System Information > Service and Repair > Page 8277
Seats with Side Airbags
Seats with side airbags have a "SIDE AIRBAG" label on the seat-back.
- When cleaning, use a damp cloth to clean the seat. Do not soak the seat with liquid, and do not
spray steam on the seat.
- Do not repair a torn or frayed seat-back cover. Replace the seat-back cover.
- After a collision where the side airbag was deployed, replace the side airbag and seat frame with
new parts. If the seat-back cushion is split, it must be replaced.
- Never put aftermarket accessories on the seat (covers, pads, seat heaters, lights, etc.).
Turn the ignition switch OFF disconnect the negative cable from the battery, then wait for 3 minutes
before starting the following procedures.
- Before disconnecting the cable reel 4P connector (1), disconnect the driver's airbag 4P connector
(2).
- Before disconnecting SRS unit connector B from SRS unit, disconnect both seat belt tensioner 4P
connectors and both seat belt buckle tensioner 4P connectors (3, 4, 5, 6).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Dashboard / Instrument Panel > Air
Bag(s) Arming and Disarming > System Information > Service and Repair > Page 8278
1. Turn the ignition switch OFF. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery, then wait for 3
minutes.
Driver's Airbag
2. Remove the access panel (A) from the steering wheel/then disconnect the driver's airbag 4P
connector (B) from the cable reel.
3. Remove the lower glove box, then disconnect the front passenger's airbag 4P connector (A)
from the dashboard wire harness.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Dashboard / Instrument Panel > Air
Bag(s) Arming and Disarming > System Information > Service and Repair > Page 8279
Side Airbag
4. Disconnect both side airbag 2P connectors (A) from the floor wire harness.
5. Remove the headliner. 6. Disconnect both floor wire harness 2P connectors (A) from the side
curtain airbags.
7. Remove the seat belt lower anchor. Disconnect both floor wire harness 4P connectors (A) from
the seat belt tensioners.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Dashboard / Instrument Panel > Air
Bag(s) Arming and Disarming > System Information > Service and Repair > Page 8280
Seat Belt Buckle Tensioner
8. Disconnect both floor wire harness 4P connectors (A) from the seat belt buckle tensioner.
SRS Unit
9. Disconnect both seat belt tensioner connectors and both seat belt buckle tensioner connectors.
Remove the center console. Disconnect SRS unit
connector A (28P) and SRS unit connector B (28P) from the SRS unit.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Dimmer Switch > Component Information
> Locations
1. Remove the subdisplay visor and disconnect the connectors. 2. Remove the two screws and the
dash lights brightness controller-odometer select/reset switch (A).
3. Check for continuity between the terminals in each switch position according the table.
4. If the continuity is not as specified, replace the bulbs (B) or the dash lights brightness
controller-odometer select/reset switch.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Dimmer Switch > Component Information
> Locations > Page 8286
1. Remove the subdisplay visor and disconnect the connectors. 2. Remove the two screws and the
dash lights brightness controller-odometer select/reset switch (A).
3. Check for continuity between the terminals in each switch position according the table.
4. If the continuity is not as specified, replace the bulbs (B) or the dash lights brightness
controller-odometer select/reset switch.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Door Switch > Component Information >
Locations
Door Switch: Locations
The ECM/PCM detects a loose or missing fuel fill cap as an evaporative system leak and alerts the
driver by showing a warning message in the gauge display.
The first time a leak is detected a "CHECK FUEL CAP" message appears in the gauge display (A).
To scroll to another message, press the select/reset button. The "CHECK FUEL CAP" message
will appear each time you restart the engine until the system turns the message off. Turn the
engine off then replace or tighten the fuel fill cap until it clicks at least once.
Procedure
1. Tighten the fuel fill cap until it clicks. 2. Clear the Temporary DTC with the HDS. 3. Verify there is
no leak by doing the EVAP FUNCTION TEST in the INSPECTION MENU with the HDS.
Procedure
1. Tighten the fuel fill cap until it clicks. 2. The message should go off after several days of normal
driving.
1. Tighten the fuel fill cap until it clicks. 2. Start the engine, then turn the ignition switch OFF. 3.
Repeat step 2 two more times.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Fuel Gauge > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions
Fuel Gauge: Diagram Information and Instructions
Circuit Schematics
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Fuel Gauge > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8302
Circuit Schematics
Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show
current flow, from power at the top of the diagram, to ground at the bottom.
Shared Circuits
Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that
connects one circuit to another, for example, is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it
pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or
component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring, check the operation of a
component it serves. If that component works, you know the shared wiring is OK.
Connectors
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Fuel Gauge > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8303
All in-line and junction connectors are numbered (C725, C416, etc.). Component connectors are
not numbered but are identified either by the name of the component if the component only has
one connector, or by a capital letter (A, B, C, etc.) if the component has more than one connector.
Below most connector numbers and component names are PHOTO and VIEW numbers. The
PHOTO number refers to a photo at Vehicle Level Locations that shows the connector's location on
the car. The VIEW number refers to an connector view at the Vehicle Level Connector Views that
shows the connector terminals, wire colors, connector cavity numbers, and other details.
The connector cavity numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector as seen
from either of the viewpoints. Except for the DLC (data link connector), disregard any numbers
molded into the connector housing.
Wires
Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the
stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number "2" next to the male
and female wire terminals at C554, for example, means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector
C554.
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the vehicle. Refer to the Power Distribution Diagram Set to get a more detailed
understanding of how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on. Individual circuit
schematics begin with a fuse. So if Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another
circuit share a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good
and power is available to the inoperative circuit.
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share the same
ground point.
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8305
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8306
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8307
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8308
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8309
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8310
How to Identify Connector Terminals
Connector terminals are numbered according to the cavities they are in. The cavities are numbered
starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side or looking at the
female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the
same. All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not
the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the
connector face.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Fuel Gauge > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8311
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown above is #6.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Fuel Gauge > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8312
The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice
connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for
all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement
terminal availability.
On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged,
replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If
any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it.
Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the
wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the
terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to
make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a
factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS.
Use the tools from Pin Tool Set. First, check the connector that you are about to repair.
- If it has a secondary terminal lock, go to Connectors With a Secondary Lock. A secondary lock,
found on most connectors on some models, is an additional locking device on the connector
housing as a backup for the primary lock on the terminal.
- If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock.
All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the
secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the
connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities.
EXAMPLE A:
EXAMPLE B:
EXAMPLE C:
EXAMPLE D:
2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW
TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE E:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Fuel Gauge > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8316
1. Remove the secondary locks.
2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW
TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE F:
3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of
connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary
in size and shape.
EXAMPLE A:
EXAMPLE B:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Fuel Gauge > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8318
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE C:
EXAMPLE D:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Fuel Gauge > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8319
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE E:
EXAMPLE F:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Fuel Gauge > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8320
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE G:
1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct
replacement terminal based on the wire size range
NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part
number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available
through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures.
2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Fuel Gauge > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8321
3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the
wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from
the kit.)
NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did,
cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again.
4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the
anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown
in step 3.
6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact.
- If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool
over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the
stops make contact.
- If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully
squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Fuel Gauge > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8322
8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the following NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and
start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the
way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure
10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector.
Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too
short or when access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair.
On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged,
replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If
any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it.
1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from
Pin Tool Set.
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8323
2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal,
then strip about half of the insulation off that piece.
This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal.
NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will
not nick or cut off any strands of wires.
3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and
same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit
onto the stripped end of the original wire.
5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the
pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more
than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at
the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the
harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make
each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail.
7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends
of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue
NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the
stripper.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Fuel Gauge > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8324
8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the
flare begins), and close the crimper handles far
enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click,
squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open.
9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the
wire all the way into the splice connector, and
squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until
the ratchet clicks again.
10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After
crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the
connector.
12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire(s), and shield them with
nonflammable material.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Fuel Gauge > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8325
13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the
gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat
evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete
when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube.
NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun.
Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the
wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size)
splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select
the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in
quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures.
Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the
Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching
connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body.
1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Fuel Gauge > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8326
2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool.
NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal
because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit.
3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal
with a replacement terminal from the appropriate
Five-Step Troubleshooting
Five-Step Troubleshooting
Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint.
Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
problem area.
Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by
tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground (certain
circuits contain a "How the Circuit Works" Diagram set). Also, trace circuits that share wiring with
the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on,
are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step
1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used
only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely
cause.
Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more
possible causes.
Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple
procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to
make tests at points that are easily accessible.
Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe
procedures.
Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire
problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure
no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur.
Test Equipment
Test Equipment
CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
1O-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up
of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to
various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is
voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital
volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is
between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM).
In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low
resistance means good continuity.
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8327
Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a
reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is
affecting the measurement.
To order any test equipment shown, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool
numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin.
Jumper Wire
Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder
connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire
across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse.
To order any test equipment shown, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool
numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin.
Troubleshooting Precautions
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION: -
Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
- Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles.
2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part
Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place.
CAUTION: -
Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8328
- Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-mega
ohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that
contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
Troubleshooting Tests
Troubleshooting Tests
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt
ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest
"OHMS" range.
2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you
want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Fuel Gauge > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8329
4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or
no reading (zero), means good continuity.
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem. Circuits must be operating when checking
voltage drop.
1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts
range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage
is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM
voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Fuel Gauge Sender > Component
Information > Locations
1. Check the No. 10 METER (7.5 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box before testing. 2. Check
for body electrical system DTCs.
3. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 4. Remove the rear seat cushion. 5. Remove the rear floor upper
cross-member (A).
7. Disconnect the fuel tank unit 4P connector (B). 8. Measure voltage between fuel tank unit 4P
connector terminals No. 1 and No. 3 with the ignition switch ON (II). There should be battery
voltage.
10. Remove the fuel tank unit from the fuel tank. 11. Measure resistance between fuel tank unit 4P
connector terminals No. 1 and No. 3 with the float at E (EMPTY), LOW (LOW FUEL
INDICATOR), 1/2 (HALF FULL), and F (FULL) positions. If you do not get the following readings,
replace the fuel gauge sending unit.
12. Reconnect the fuel tank unit 4P connector. 13. Remove the No. 23 BACK UP (10 A) fuse from
the under-hood fuse/relay box for at least 10 seconds, then reinstall it. 14. Turn the ignition switch
ON (II). 15. Check that the pointer of the fuel gauge indicates "F" with the float at F.
- If the pointer of the fuel gauge does not indicate "F", replace the gauge assembly.
NOTE: -
The pointer of the fuel gauge returns to the bottom of the gauge dial when the ignition switch is
OFF, regardless of the fuel level.
- Remove the No. 23 BACK UP (10 A) fuse from the under-hood fuse/relay box for at least 10
seconds after completing troubleshooting, otherwise it may take up to 20 minutes for the fuel gauge
to indicate the correct fuel level.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Fuel Gauge Sender > Component
Information > Locations > Page 8336
1. Remove the fuel tank unit. 2. Remove the fuel level sensor (fuel sending unit) (A) from the fuel
tank unit (B).
- When connecting the wire harness, make sure the connection is secure and the connectors (C)
are firmly locked into place.
- When installing the fuel gauge sending unit, make sure the connection is secure. Be careful not to
bend or twist it excessively.
4. Install the parts in the reverse order of removal. When installing the fuel tank unit, align the
marks on the unit and the fuel tank.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Instrument Cluster / Carrier > Air Bag(s)
Arming and Disarming > System Information > Service and Repair
General Precautions
Please read the following precautions carefully before performing the airbag system service. If the
instructions described are not properly followed, the airbags could accidentally deploy and cause
damage or injuries.
- Except when performing electrical inspections, always turn the ignition switch OFF, disconnect
the negative cable from the battery, then wait for 3 minutes before starting work.
NOTE: The SRS memory is not cleared even if the ignition switch is turned OFF or the battery
cables are disconnected from the battery.
- Use replacement parts which are manufactured to the same standards and quality as the original
parts. Do not install used SRS parts. Use only new parts when making SRS repairs.
- Carefully inspect any SRS part before you install it. Do not install any part that shows signs of
being dropped or improperly handled, such as dents, cracks or deformation.
- Before disconnecting the SRS unit connectors, always disconnect the appropriate SRS parts
connectors.
- Use only a digital multimeter to check the system. If it is not a Honda multimeter, make sure its
output is 10 mA (0.01 A) or less when switched to the lowest value in the ohmmeter range. A tester
with a higher output could cause accidental deployment and possible injury.
- The original audio and navigation system has a coded theft protection circuit. Make sure you have
the anti-theft codes for the audio system or the navigation system (if equipped), then write down
the audio presets before disconnecting the negative cable from the battery.
- Before returning the vehicle to the customer, enter the anti-theft codes for the audio system or the
navigation system (if equipped), then enter the audio presets; set the clock.
Steering-related Precautions
- Misalignment of the cable reel could cause an open in the wiring, making the SRS system, remote
steering wheel controls, and the horn inoperative. Center the cable reel whenever you do the
following. -
- If the cable reel shows any signs of damage, replace it with a new one. For example, if it does not
rotate smoothly, replace the cable reel.
Do not disassemble an airbag. It has no serviceable parts. Once an airbag has been deployed, it
cannot be repaired or reused.
For temporary storage of an airbag during service, observe the following precautions.
- Store the removed airbag with the pad surface up. Never put anything on the airbag.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Instrument Cluster / Carrier > Air Bag(s)
Arming and Disarming > System Information > Service and Repair > Page 8341
- To prevent damage to the airbag, keep it away from any oil, grease, detergent, or water.
- Store the removed airbag on a secure, flat surface away from any high heat source (exceeding
200 °F/93 °C)
- Do not position yourself in front of the airbag during removal, inspection, or replacement.
- The side curtain airbag inflator assembly is a long, jointed part containing an inflator (A), a flexible
bag (B), and brackets (C). When removing or installing the side curtain airbag assembly, never do
the following items: -
- Turn the ignition switch OFF, disconnect the negative cable from the battery then wait for 3
minutes before starting installation or replacement of the SRS unit, or disconnecting the connectors
from the SRS unit.
- Be careful not to bump or impact the SRS unit, front impact sensors, side impact sensors, or rear
safing sensor whenever the ignition switch is ON (II), or for at least 3 minutes after the ignition
switch is turned OFF.
- During installation or replacement, be careful not to bump (by impact wrench, hammer, etc.) the
area around the SRS unit, front impact sensors, the side impact sensors, or rear safing sensor. The
airbags could accidentally deploy and cause damage or injury.
- After a collision where a front airbag, side airbag or a seat belt tensioner, seat belt buckle
tensioner deployed, go to Component Replacement/Inspection After Deployment. See: Restraint
Systems/Air Bag Systems/Service and Repair After a collision where the airbags did not deploy,
inspect for any damage or any deformation on the SRS unit, front impact sensors, side impact
sensors, or rear safing sensor. If there is any damage, replace the SRS unit and/or the sensors.
- Do not disassemble the SRS unit, front impact sensors, side impact sensors, driver's seat position
sensor, front passenger's weight sensors, or rear safing sensor.
- Be sure the SRS unit, front impact sensors, side impact sensors, and rear safing sensor are
installed securely with the mounting bolts torqued to 9.8 N.m (1.0 kgf.m, 7.2 lbf.ft). Whenever you
remove or replace the SRS unit, safing sensor, or all impact sensors, always install the
components with new bolts.
- Do not spill water or oil on the SRS unit or the side impact sensors.
Wiring Precautions
Some of the SRS wiring can be identified by special yellow outer covering, and the SRS
connectors can be identified by their yellow color. Observe the instructions.
- Never attempt to modify, splice, or repair SRS wiring. If there is an open or damage in SRS
wiring, replace the harness.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Instrument Cluster / Carrier > Air Bag(s)
Arming and Disarming > System Information > Service and Repair > Page 8343
- Be sure to install the harness wires so they do not get pinched or interfere with other parts.
- Make sure all SRS ground locations are clean, and grounds are securely fastened for optimum
metal-to-metal contact. Poor grounds can cause intermittent problems that are difficult to diagnose.
- When using electrical test equipment, insert the probe of the tester into the wire side of the
connector. Do not insert the probe of the tester into the terminal side of the connector, and do not
tamper with the connector.
- Use specified service connectors in troubleshooting. Using improper tools could cause an error in
inspection due to poor metal-to-metal contact.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Instrument Cluster / Carrier > Air Bag(s)
Arming and Disarming > System Information > Service and Repair > Page 8344
Spring-loaded Lock Connector
Disconnecting
To release the lock, pull the spring-loaded sleeve (A) toward the stop (B) while holding the opposite
half of the connector. Then pull the connector halves apart. Be sure to pull on the sleeve and not
on the connector.
Connecting
To reconnect, hold the pawl-side connector, and press on the back of the sleeve-side connector in
the direction shown. As the two connector halves are pressed together, the sleeve (A) is pushed
back by the pawl (B). Do not touch the sleeve.
Disconnecting
To release the lock, pull the spring-loaded sleeve (A) toward the stop (B) while holding the opposite
half of the connector. Then pull the connector halves apart. Be sure to pull on the sleeve and not
on the connector half.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Instrument Cluster / Carrier > Air Bag(s)
Arming and Disarming > System Information > Service and Repair > Page 8345
Connecting
Hold both connector halves, and press them firmly together until the projection (A) of the
sleeve-side connector clicks.
NOTE:
- To prevent damaging of the connector cavity, insert the short canceller straight into the cavity
from the terminal side.
- Before installing the short canceller, wash it with electric contact cleaner, then dry it with
compressed air.
When SRS unit connectors A (28P) or B (28P) are disconnected, a short circuit is created in the
connector by its own function to prevent an airbag deployment. The circuit may need to be open
sometimes when diagnosis is done on the system. Insert the short canceller (070AZ-SAA0100) in
the specified cavities when it is necessary to keep the circuit open for diagnosis.
Terminal numbers are shown from the wire side of the female terminals. Insert the short
canceller(s) into the cavities on the terminal side of the connector.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Instrument Cluster / Carrier > Air Bag(s)
Arming and Disarming > System Information > Service and Repair > Page 8346
Seats with Side Airbags
Seats with side airbags have a "SIDE AIRBAG" label on the seat-back.
- When cleaning, use a damp cloth to clean the seat. Do not soak the seat with liquid, and do not
spray steam on the seat.
- Do not repair a torn or frayed seat-back cover. Replace the seat-back cover.
- After a collision where the side airbag was deployed, replace the side airbag and seat frame with
new parts. If the seat-back cushion is split, it must be replaced.
- Never put aftermarket accessories on the seat (covers, pads, seat heaters, lights, etc.).
Turn the ignition switch OFF disconnect the negative cable from the battery, then wait for 3 minutes
before starting the following procedures.
- Before disconnecting the cable reel 4P connector (1), disconnect the driver's airbag 4P connector
(2).
- Before disconnecting SRS unit connector B from SRS unit, disconnect both seat belt tensioner 4P
connectors and both seat belt buckle tensioner 4P connectors (3, 4, 5, 6).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Instrument Cluster / Carrier > Air Bag(s)
Arming and Disarming > System Information > Service and Repair > Page 8347
1. Turn the ignition switch OFF. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery, then wait for 3
minutes.
Driver's Airbag
2. Remove the access panel (A) from the steering wheel/then disconnect the driver's airbag 4P
connector (B) from the cable reel.
3. Remove the lower glove box, then disconnect the front passenger's airbag 4P connector (A)
from the dashboard wire harness.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Instrument Cluster / Carrier > Air Bag(s)
Arming and Disarming > System Information > Service and Repair > Page 8348
Side Airbag
4. Disconnect both side airbag 2P connectors (A) from the floor wire harness.
5. Remove the headliner. 6. Disconnect both floor wire harness 2P connectors (A) from the side
curtain airbags.
7. Remove the seat belt lower anchor. Disconnect both floor wire harness 4P connectors (A) from
the seat belt tensioners.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Instrument Cluster / Carrier > Air Bag(s)
Arming and Disarming > System Information > Service and Repair > Page 8349
Seat Belt Buckle Tensioner
8. Disconnect both floor wire harness 4P connectors (A) from the seat belt buckle tensioner.
SRS Unit
9. Disconnect both seat belt tensioner connectors and both seat belt buckle tensioner connectors.
Remove the center console. Disconnect SRS unit
connector A (28P) and SRS unit connector B (28P) from the SRS unit.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Instrument Cluster / Carrier > Instrument
Panel Control Module > Component Information > Locations
Instrument Panel Control Module: Locations
NOTE: If the PCM has any DTCs, do the DTC troubleshooting first.
1. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). 2. Check the LOW FUEL INDICATOR in the DATA LIST with the
HDS.
Is ON indicated?
YES - Intermittent failure, the system is OK at this time. Check for poor connections or loose
terminals at the fuel pressure switch and the PCM, then disconnect the negative cable from the
battery for a few seconds to reset the low fuel indicator.
NO - Go to step 3.
3. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 4. Disconnect the fuel pressure switch 2P connector. 5. Check for
continuity between fuel pressure switch 2P connector terminal No. 2 and body ground.
Is there continuity?
YES - Go to step 6.
NO - Repair open in the wire between the fuel pressure switch and G401, then disconnect the
negative cable from the battery for a few seconds to reset the low fuel indicator.
6. Remove the driver's dashboard undercover, 7. Remove the fuel shut-off solenoid valve relay (A).
8. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). 9. Measure voltage between fuel pressure switch 2P connector
terminal No. 1 and body ground.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Low Fuel Lamp/Indicator > Component
Information > Testing and Inspection > Page 8360
Is there about 5 V?
NO - Go to step 10.
10. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 11. Connect fuel pressure switch 2P connector terminal No.1 to
body ground with a jumper wire.
12. Jump the SCS line with the HDS. 13. Disconnect PCM connector A (44P). 14. Check for
continuity between body ground and PCM connector terminal A41.
IS there continuity?
YES - Update the PCM if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a known- good PCM,
then recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away with a known-good PCM, replace the original
PCM. then disconnect the negative cable from the battery for a few seconds to reset the low fuel
indicator.
NO - Repair open in the wire between the fuel pressure switch and the PCM (A41), then disconnect
the negative cable from the battery for a few seconds to reset the low fuel indicator.
15. Check the FUEL RAIL PRESSURE SENSOR in the DATA LIST with the HDS.
YES - Replace the fuel pressure regulator P1, then disconnect the negative cable from the battery
for a few seconds to reset the low fuel indicator.
NO - Replace the original fuel pressure switch, then disconnect the negative cable from the battery
for a few seconds to reset the low fuel
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Low Fuel Lamp/Indicator > Component
Information > Testing and Inspection > Page 8361
indicator.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Low Tire Pressure Indicator > Component
Information > Locations
Low Tire Pressure Indicator: Service and Repair TPMS Indicator Reset
The TPMS (tire pressure monitoring system) has a low tire pressure indicator and a TPMS
indicator. When the TPMS control unit detects low pressure in a tire, or a problem in the system, it
turns on the appropriate indicator.
^ If low tire pressure is detected in one or more tires, the low tire pressure indicator comes on.
^ If low tire pressure and a problem in the system are detected, only the TPMS indicator comes on.
If the system is OK, the TPMS indicator and the low tire pressure indicator should come on when
you turn the ignition switch to ON (II), and then go off 2 seconds later. If they don't, there is a
problem with the system.
If the system detects low pressure in any of the four tires, the low tire pressure indicator comes on,
and the control unit will set one or more of these codes: DTC 11, 13, 15, 17. When the tire pressure
returns to normal, the control unit turns off the indicators and stores the DTC(s). However, if the
control unit detects a problem in the system during an indication of low tire pressure, it turns off the
low tire pressure indicator, stores the DTC(s), and turns on the TPMS indicator(s).
NOTE: Tire pressures increase slightly as the temperature in the tires rises during driving at
highway speeds. Pressures can also increase or decrease slightly with changes in outside air
temperature. A temperature change of about 18°F (10°C) changes tire pressure by about 10 kPa
(0.1 kgf/cm2, 1.5 psi). If the temperature drops, tire pressure could decrease just enough to turn on
the low tire pressure indicator, but later, the tire temperature could increase enough to turn the
indicator off. To resolve a complaint of such intermittent indications, confirm and clear the stored
DTC(s) and check the tire pressures. Then explain to the customer how temperature changes can
affect the system, especially when tire pressures are near the low end of the TPMS normal range -
168 to 220 kPa (1.7 to 2.2 kgf/cm2, 24 to 32 psi).
If a problem is detected in the system, the TPMS indicator comes on and stays on until the system
returns to normal with most DTCs. If DTC 81, 83 or 85 is set, the TPMS indicator goes off only
when the ignition switch is turned to LOCK (0).
When a flat tire is replaced with the spare tire, the TPMS indicator comes on (DTC 32, 34, 36 or
38) because the system is no longer receiving the signal from the tire's transmitter. This is not a
problem with the spare tire.
After rotating the tires or replacing a tire pressure sensor, drive the vehicle for at least 40 seconds
at a speed of 15 mph (24 km/h) or more, and all the sensor IDs are memorized automatically.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Maintenance Required Lamp/Indicator >
Component Information > Description and Operation
Maintenance Required Lamp/Indicator: Description and Operation
Maintenance Minder
References:
- For an explanation of Maintenance Minder Codes and what service should be performed, refer to
Indicator Based Service. See: Maintenance/Service Intervals/Condition/Indicator Based
Maintenance Services/Indicator Based Service
- For information on how to reset the display, refer to the article under Resetting the Maintenance
Minder. See: Service and Repair
The vehicle displays engine oil life and maintenance service items on the information display to
show when to perform an engine oil replacement and other indicated maintenance service.
Based on the engine operating conditions and accumulated engine revolutions, the onboard
computer calculates the remaining engine oil life and displays it as a percentage.
To see the current engine oil life, turn the ignition switch to the ON (II) position, then push and
release the SEL/RESET button repeatedly until the engine oil life indicator appears.
If the remaining engine oil life is 15 to 6 percent, the engine oil life indicator will display every time
the ignition switch is turned to the ON (II) position. The maintenance minder indicator will also
come on, and the maintenance item code(s) for other scheduled maintenance items needing
service will be displayed next to the engine oil life indicator.
The maintenance item code or codes indicate the main and sub items required at the time of the oil
change.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Maintenance Required Lamp/Indicator >
Component Information > Description and Operation > Page 8371
When the remaining engine oil life is 5 to 1 percent, you will see a "SERVICE" message along with
the maintenance item code(s), every time you turn the ignition switch to the ON (II) position.
The maintenance item code or codes indicate the main and sub items required at the time of the oil
change. For an explanation of Maintenance Minder Codes and what service should be performed,
refer to Indicator Based Service. See: Maintenance/Service Intervals/Condition/Indicator Based
Maintenance Services/Indicator Based Service
You can switch the display to the odometer, the trip meter, and the outside temperature indicator (if
equipped) by pushing the SEL/RESET button on the dashboard repeatedly.
When the engine oil life is 15 to 1 percent, the maintenance minder indicator (Wrench icon) comes
on every time you turn the ignition switch to the ON position, then it goes out if you switch the
information display.
When you see this message, the indicated maintenance should be performed as soon as possible.
When the remaining engine oil life is 0 percent, the engine oil life indicator will blink. The display
comes on every time you turn the ignition switch to the ON (II) position. The maintenance minder
indicator (Wrench icon) also comes on and remains on in the instrument panel. When you see this
message, the indicated maintenance should be immediately performed.
If you do not perform the indicated maintenance, negative mileage is displayed and begins to blink
after the vehicle has been driven 10 miles (10 km) or more.
Negative mileage means your vehicle has passed the maintenance required point. Have the
indicated maintenance done immediately.
You can change the information display from the engine oil life display to the odometer, the trip
meter, or the outside temperature (if equipped) every time you press and release the SEL/RESET
button.
When the engine oil life is 0 percent or negative mileage, the maintenance minder indicator
(Wrench icon) remains on even if you change the information display.
Immediately have the service performed, and make sure to reset the display. Refer to Resetting the
Maintenance Minder. See: Service and Repair
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Maintenance Required Lamp/Indicator >
Component Information > Description and Operation > Page 8372
All maintenance items displayed in the information display are in code. For an explanation of
Maintenance Minder Codes and what service should be performed, refer to Indicator Based
Service. See: Maintenance/Service Intervals/Condition/Indicator Based Maintenance
Services/Indicator Based Service
If you complete the required service but do not reset the display, or reset the display without doing
the service, the system will not show the proper maintenance intervals. This can lead to serious
mechanical problems because there will no longer be an accurate record of when maintenance is
needed.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Maintenance Required Lamp/Indicator >
Component Information > Description and Operation > Page 8373
Reference:
- For information regarding interpreting the maintenance minder display refer to Maintenance
Required Lamp/Indicator / Description and Operation / "Reading the Maintenance Minder".
Reset the display after completing the required maintenance service. You will see "OIL LIFE 100%"
on the information display the next time you turn the ignition switch to the ON (II) position.
2. Press the SEL/RESET knob (or button if equipped) repeatedly until the engine oil life is
displayed.
3. Press the SEL/RESET button for about 10 seconds. The engine oil life and the maintenance
item code(s) will blink.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Maintenance Required Lamp/Indicator >
Component Information > Description and Operation > Page 8374
4. Press the SEL/RESET button for more than 5 seconds. The maintenance item code(s) will
disappear, and the engine oil life will reset to "100."
If you complete the required service but do not reset the display, or reset the display without doing
the service, the system will not show the proper maintenance intervals. This can lead to serious
mechanical problems because there will no longer be an accurate record of when maintenance is
needed.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Malfunction Indicator Lamp > Component
Information > Description and Operation
Malfunction Indicator Lamp: Description and Operation
The vehicle has certain "readiness codes" that are part of the on-board diagnostics for the
emissions systems. If the vehicle's battery has been disconnected or gone dead, if the DTCs have
been cleared, or if the PCM has been reset, these codes are reset. In some states, part of the
emissions testing is to make sure these codes are set to complete. If all of them are not set to
complete, the vehicle may fail the test, or the test cannot be finished.
To check if the readiness codes are set to complete, turn the ignition switch ON (II), but do not start
the engine. The MIL will come on for 15-20 seconds. If it then goes off, the readiness codes are
complete'. If it flashes five times, one or more readiness codes are not complete. To set each code,
drive the vehicle or run the engine as described in the procedures.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Malfunction Indicator Lamp > Component
Information > Description and Operation > Page 8378
YES - Go to step 3.
NO - Substitute a known-good gauge control module (tach), and recheck. If the MIL circuit is OK,
replace the original gauge control module (tach).
3. Connect the HDS to the DLC. 4. Check the SCS in the DATA LIST with the HDS.
Is a short indicated?
YES - Go to step 5.
NO - Update the ECM/PCM if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a known-good
ECM/PCM, then recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away with a known-good ECM/PCM,
replace the original ECM/PCM.
5. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 6. Disconnect ECM/PCM connector A (44P), then disconnect the
HDS. 7. Check for continuity between ECM/PCM connector terminal A31 and body ground.
Is there continuity?
YES - Repair short in the wire between the ECM/PCM (A31) and the SRS unit, the DLC.
NO - Update the ECM/PCM if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a known-good
ECM/PCM, then recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away with a known-good ECM/PCM,
replace the original ECM/PCM.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Odometer > Component Information >
Locations
1. Remove the subdisplay visor and disconnect the connectors. 2. Remove the two screws and the
dash lights brightness controller-odometer select/reset switch (A).
3. Check for continuity between the terminals in each switch position according the table.
4. If the continuity is not as specified, replace the bulbs (B) or the dash lights brightness
controller-odometer select/reset switch.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Odometer > Component Information >
Locations > Page 8383
1. Remove the subdisplay visor and disconnect the connectors. 2. Remove the two screws and the
dash lights brightness controller-odometer select/reset switch (A).
3. Check for continuity between the terminals in each switch position according the table.
4. If the continuity is not as specified, replace the bulbs (B) or the dash lights brightness
controller-odometer select/reset switch.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Oil Pressure Sender > Component
Information > Locations
Oil Pressure Sender: Locations
1. Remove the cowl cover and under-cowl panel. 2. Disconnect the EOP sensor connector (A).
3. Remove the bracket (B) and the EOP sensor (C). 4. Install the parts in the reverse order of
removal with a new O-ring (D).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Oil Pressure Warning Lamp/Indicator >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions
Oil Pressure Warning Lamp/Indicator: Diagram Information and Instructions
Circuit Schematics
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Oil Pressure Warning Lamp/Indicator >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8396
Circuit Schematics
Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show
current flow, from power at the top of the diagram, to ground at the bottom.
Shared Circuits
Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that
connects one circuit to another, for example, is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it
pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or
component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring, check the operation of a
component it serves. If that component works, you know the shared wiring is OK.
Connectors
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Oil Pressure Warning Lamp/Indicator >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8397
All in-line and junction connectors are numbered (C725, C416, etc.). Component connectors are
not numbered but are identified either by the name of the component if the component only has
one connector, or by a capital letter (A, B, C, etc.) if the component has more than one connector.
Below most connector numbers and component names are PHOTO and VIEW numbers. The
PHOTO number refers to a photo at Vehicle Level Locations that shows the connector's location on
the car. The VIEW number refers to an connector view at the Vehicle Level Connector Views that
shows the connector terminals, wire colors, connector cavity numbers, and other details.
The connector cavity numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector as seen
from either of the viewpoints. Except for the DLC (data link connector), disregard any numbers
molded into the connector housing.
Wires
Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the
stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number "2" next to the male
and female wire terminals at C554, for example, means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector
C554.
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the vehicle. Refer to the Power Distribution Diagram Set to get a more detailed
understanding of how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on. Individual circuit
schematics begin with a fuse. So if Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another
circuit share a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good
and power is available to the inoperative circuit.
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share the same
ground point.
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8401
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8402
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8403
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Oil Pressure Warning Lamp/Indicator >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8404
How to Identify Connector Terminals
Connector terminals are numbered according to the cavities they are in. The cavities are numbered
starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side or looking at the
female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the
same. All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not
the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the
connector face.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Oil Pressure Warning Lamp/Indicator >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8405
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown above is #6.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Oil Pressure Warning Lamp/Indicator >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8406
The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice
connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for
all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement
terminal availability.
On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged,
replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If
any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it.
Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the
wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the
terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to
make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a
factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS.
Use the tools from Pin Tool Set. First, check the connector that you are about to repair.
- If it has a secondary terminal lock, go to Connectors With a Secondary Lock. A secondary lock,
found on most connectors on some models, is an additional locking device on the connector
housing as a backup for the primary lock on the terminal.
- If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock.
All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the
secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the
connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities.
EXAMPLE A:
EXAMPLE B:
EXAMPLE C:
EXAMPLE D:
2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW
TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE E:
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Oil Pressure Warning Lamp/Indicator >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8410
1. Remove the secondary locks.
2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW
TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE F:
3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of
connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary
in size and shape.
EXAMPLE A:
EXAMPLE B:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Oil Pressure Warning Lamp/Indicator >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8412
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE C:
EXAMPLE D:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Oil Pressure Warning Lamp/Indicator >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8413
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE E:
EXAMPLE F:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Oil Pressure Warning Lamp/Indicator >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8414
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE G:
1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct
replacement terminal based on the wire size range
NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part
number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available
through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures.
2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Oil Pressure Warning Lamp/Indicator >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8415
3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the
wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from
the kit.)
NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did,
cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again.
4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the
anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown
in step 3.
6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact.
- If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool
over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the
stops make contact.
- If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully
squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Oil Pressure Warning Lamp/Indicator >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8416
8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the following NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and
start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the
way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure
10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector.
Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too
short or when access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair.
On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged,
replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If
any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it.
1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from
Pin Tool Set.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Oil Pressure Warning Lamp/Indicator >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8417
2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal,
then strip about half of the insulation off that piece.
This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal.
NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will
not nick or cut off any strands of wires.
3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and
same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit
onto the stripped end of the original wire.
5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the
pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more
than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at
the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the
harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make
each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail.
7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends
of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue
NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the
stripper.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Oil Pressure Warning Lamp/Indicator >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8418
8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the
flare begins), and close the crimper handles far
enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click,
squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open.
9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the
wire all the way into the splice connector, and
squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until
the ratchet clicks again.
10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After
crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the
connector.
12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire(s), and shield them with
nonflammable material.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Oil Pressure Warning Lamp/Indicator >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8419
13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the
gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat
evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete
when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube.
NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun.
Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the
wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size)
splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select
the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in
quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures.
Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the
Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching
connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body.
1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Oil Pressure Warning Lamp/Indicator >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8420
2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool.
NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal
because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit.
3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal
with a replacement terminal from the appropriate
Five-Step Troubleshooting
Five-Step Troubleshooting
Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint.
Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
problem area.
Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by
tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground (certain
circuits contain a "How the Circuit Works" Diagram set). Also, trace circuits that share wiring with
the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on,
are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step
1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used
only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely
cause.
Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more
possible causes.
Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple
procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to
make tests at points that are easily accessible.
Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe
procedures.
Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire
problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure
no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur.
Test Equipment
Test Equipment
CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
1O-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up
of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to
various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is
voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital
volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is
between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM).
In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low
resistance means good continuity.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Oil Pressure Warning Lamp/Indicator >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8421
Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a
reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is
affecting the measurement.
To order any test equipment shown, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool
numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin.
Jumper Wire
Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder
connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire
across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse.
To order any test equipment shown, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool
numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin.
Troubleshooting Precautions
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION: -
Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
- Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles.
2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part
Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place.
CAUTION: -
Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Oil Pressure Warning Lamp/Indicator >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8422
- Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-mega
ohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that
contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
Troubleshooting Tests
Troubleshooting Tests
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt
ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest
"OHMS" range.
2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you
want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Oil Pressure Warning Lamp/Indicator >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8423
4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or
no reading (zero), means good continuity.
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem. Circuits must be operating when checking
voltage drop.
1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts
range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage
is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM
voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Oil Pressure Warning Lamp/Indicator >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8424
Oil Pressure Warning Lamp/Indicator: Testing and Inspection Low Oil Pressure Indicator Circuit
Troubleshooting (Open)
1. Connect the Honda Diagnostic System (HDS) to the data link connector (DLC). 2. Turn the
ignition switch to ON (II). 3. Make sure the HDS communicates with the vehicle and the engine
control module (ECM)/powertrain control module (PCM.). If it doesn't
4. Check for DTCs. If a DTC is present, diagnose, and repair the cause before continuing with this
test. 5. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), select PGM-FI, and check the OIL PRESSURE SWITCH
in the DATA LIST with the HDS.
Is "ON" indicated?
NO - Go to step 6.
6. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). 7. Check the oil pressure switch.
YES - Go to step 8.
8. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), and jump the SCS line with the HDS, then turn the ignition
switch to LOCK (0).
NOTE: This step must be done to protect the ECM/PCM from damage.
Is there continuity?
YES - Update the ECM/PCM if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a known-good
ECM/PCM, then recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away with a known-good ECM/PCM,
replace the original ECM/PCM.
NO - Repair open in the wire between the oil pressure switch and the ECM/PCM.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Oil Pressure Warning Lamp/Indicator >
Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Low Oil Pressure Indicator Circuit Troubleshooting (Open) > Page 8427
Oil Pressure Warning Lamp/Indicator: Testing and Inspection Low Oil Pressure Indicator Circuit
Troubleshooting (Short)
1. Connect the Honda Diagnostic System (HDS) to the data link connector (DLC). 2. Turn the
ignition switch to ON (II). 3. Make sure the HDS communicates with the vehicle and the engine
control module (ECM)/powertrain control module (PCM). If it doesn't
4. Check for DTCs. If a DTC is present, diagnose, and repair the cause before continuing with this
test. 5. Start the engine, select PGM-FI, and check the OIL PRESSURE SWITCH in the DATA
LIST with the HDS.
Is "OFF" indicated?
NO - Go to step 6.
6. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). 7. Disconnect the oil pressure switch connector. 8. Start the
engine, and check the OIL PRESSURE SWITCH in the DATA LIST with the HDS.
Is "OFF" indicated?
YES - Go to step 9.
NO - Go to step 11.
11. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), and jump the SCS line with the HDS, then turn the ignition
switch to LOCK (0).
NOTE: This step must be done to protect the ECM/PCM from damage.
12. Disconnect ECM/PCM connector B (44P) and the oil pressure switch connector. 13. Check for
continuity between the oil pressure switch connector and body ground.
Is there continuity?
YES - Repair short to ground in the wire between the oil pressure switch and the ECM/PCM.
NO - Update the ECM/PCM if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a known-good
ECM/PCM, then recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away with a known-good ECM/PCM,
replace the original ECM/PCM.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Outside Temperature Display >
Component Information > Adjustments
Description
The outside temperature sensor is located behind the center of the front bumper. The gauge
control module (tach) uses measurements from this sensor to display the outside air temperature.
Because of the location of the sensor, it may be affected by heat reflection from the road, engine
and radiator heat or hot exhaust from surrounding traffic. These conditions can heat soak the
outside air temperature sensor and cause inaccurate readings. Logic has been written into the
gauge control module (tach) to help prevent abnormal or fluctuating outside air temperature
indicator readings.
Initial outside air temperature indication after the ignition switch is turned ON (II).
- If the engine coolant temperature is 140 °F (60 °C) or higher when the ignition switch is turned
ON (II), the outside air temperature indicated the last time the key was turned off will be displayed
regardless of the current temperature measured by the outside air temperature sensor.
- If the engine coolant temperature is 139 °F (59 °C) or lower when the ignition switch is turned ON
(II), the current temperature measured by the outside air temperature sensor will be indicated.
If the temperature measured by the outside air temperature sensor is greater than the temperature
on the outside air temperature indicator, the outside temperature indicator will increase by 1.8 °F (1
°C) per minute after the vehicle speed is greater than 19 mph (30 km/h) for more than 1 minute and
30 seconds. It will continue to increase until the current outside air temperature is indicated. So, the
first change to the outside air temperature indicator is 1 minute and 30 seconds after the vehicle
speed is greater than 19 mph (30 km/h). If the vehicle speed drops below 19 mph (30 km/h), the
indicator will not update again until the vehicle speed is increased to 19 mph (30 km/h) or more for
more than 1 minute and 30 seconds again. If the outside air temperature is less than the indicated
temperature, the temperature will decrease 1 °F every 1.1 seconds (1 °C every 2 seconds) until the
current outside air temperature is indicated regardless of vehicle speed.
Troubleshooting
If the indicator displays "--------" for more than 2 seconds after selecting the outside air temperature
display mode, check the outside air temperature sensor, or gauge control module self-diagnosis.
Calibration
The outside air temperature indicator's displayed temperature can be recalibrated ±5 °F (or ±3 °C)
to meet the customer's expectations.
1. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). 2. Select the outside air temperature display. 3. Press and hold
the SEL/RESET switch until the trip meter resets, then release it. Press, and continue to hold, the
switch again, and the display will
4. When the desired correction value appears on the display, release the button, and the
recalibrated outside air temperature will be displayed.
NOTE: The recalibration temperature is not the value the sensor sees. Therefore the temperature
can only be adjusted 5 degrees from the sensor.
NOTE: To recalibrate the display to the true temperature, remove the outside air temperature
sensor (A), but leave it connected. Submerge the sensor and a thermometer (B) in a container of
ice water (C). Select the calibration mode as described above, then recalibrate the display to the
true temperature.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Outside Temperature Display >
Component Information > Adjustments > Page 8431
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Outside Temperature Display >
Component Information > Adjustments > Page 8432
1. Remove the front bumper. 2. Lift the tab (A) to release the lock, then remove the outside air
temperature sensor (B) from the receiver/dryer desiccant bracket [from the A/C
condenser] [ ] : 2-door
NOTE: If both the ABS indicator and the brake system indicator come on at the same time, check
the ABS or VSA system first.
1. Remove the center console. 2. Disconnect the parking brake switch connector (A) from the
parking brake switch (B).
3. Check for continuity between the switch terminal (C) and body ground.
NOTE: If the parking brake switch and fluid level switch are OK, but the brake system indicator
does not function, do the gauge control module test.
1. Remove the subdisplay visor and disconnect the connectors. 2. Remove the two screws and the
dash lights brightness controller-odometer select/reset switch (A).
3. Check for continuity between the terminals in each switch position according the table.
4. If the continuity is not as specified, replace the bulbs (B) or the dash lights brightness
controller-odometer select/reset switch.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Sensors and Switches - Instrument Panel
> Dimmer Switch > Component Information > Locations > Page 8454
1. Remove the subdisplay visor and disconnect the connectors. 2. Remove the two screws and the
dash lights brightness controller-odometer select/reset switch (A).
3. Check for continuity between the terminals in each switch position according the table.
4. If the continuity is not as specified, replace the bulbs (B) or the dash lights brightness
controller-odometer select/reset switch.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Sensors and Switches - Instrument Panel
> Door Switch > Component Information > Locations
Door Switch: Locations
1. Check the No. 10 METER (7.5 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box before testing. 2. Check
for body electrical system DTCs.
3. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 4. Remove the rear seat cushion. 5. Remove the rear floor upper
cross-member (A).
7. Disconnect the fuel tank unit 4P connector (B). 8. Measure voltage between fuel tank unit 4P
connector terminals No. 1 and No. 3 with the ignition switch ON (II). There should be battery
voltage.
10. Remove the fuel tank unit from the fuel tank. 11. Measure resistance between fuel tank unit 4P
connector terminals No. 1 and No. 3 with the float at E (EMPTY), LOW (LOW FUEL
INDICATOR), 1/2 (HALF FULL), and F (FULL) positions. If you do not get the following readings,
replace the fuel gauge sending unit.
12. Reconnect the fuel tank unit 4P connector. 13. Remove the No. 23 BACK UP (10 A) fuse from
the under-hood fuse/relay box for at least 10 seconds, then reinstall it. 14. Turn the ignition switch
ON (II). 15. Check that the pointer of the fuel gauge indicates "F" with the float at F.
- If the pointer of the fuel gauge does not indicate "F", replace the gauge assembly.
NOTE: -
The pointer of the fuel gauge returns to the bottom of the gauge dial when the ignition switch is
OFF, regardless of the fuel level.
- Remove the No. 23 BACK UP (10 A) fuse from the under-hood fuse/relay box for at least 10
seconds after completing troubleshooting, otherwise it may take up to 20 minutes for the fuel gauge
to indicate the correct fuel level.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Sensors and Switches - Instrument Panel
> Fuel Gauge Sender > Component Information > Locations > Page 8469
1. Remove the fuel tank unit. 2. Remove the fuel level sensor (fuel sending unit) (A) from the fuel
tank unit (B).
- When connecting the wire harness, make sure the connection is secure and the connectors (C)
are firmly locked into place.
- When installing the fuel gauge sending unit, make sure the connection is secure. Be careful not to
bend or twist it excessively.
4. Install the parts in the reverse order of removal. When installing the fuel tank unit, align the
marks on the unit and the fuel tank.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Sensors and Switches - Instrument Panel
> Parking Brake Warning Switch > Component Information > Locations
NOTE: If both the ABS indicator and the brake system indicator come on at the same time, check
the ABS or VSA system first.
1. Remove the center console. 2. Disconnect the parking brake switch connector (A) from the
parking brake switch (B).
3. Check for continuity between the switch terminal (C) and body ground.
NOTE: If the parking brake switch and fluid level switch are OK, but the brake system indicator
does not function, do the gauge control module test.
Circuit Schematics
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8482
Circuit Schematics
Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show
current flow, from power at the top of the diagram, to ground at the bottom.
Shared Circuits
Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that
connects one circuit to another, for example, is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it
pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or
component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring, check the operation of a
component it serves. If that component works, you know the shared wiring is OK.
Connectors
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Shift Indicator > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8483
All in-line and junction connectors are numbered (C725, C416, etc.). Component connectors are
not numbered but are identified either by the name of the component if the component only has
one connector, or by a capital letter (A, B, C, etc.) if the component has more than one connector.
Below most connector numbers and component names are PHOTO and VIEW numbers. The
PHOTO number refers to a photo at Vehicle Level Locations that shows the connector's location on
the car. The VIEW number refers to an connector view at the Vehicle Level Connector Views that
shows the connector terminals, wire colors, connector cavity numbers, and other details.
The connector cavity numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector as seen
from either of the viewpoints. Except for the DLC (data link connector), disregard any numbers
molded into the connector housing.
Wires
Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the
stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number "2" next to the male
and female wire terminals at C554, for example, means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector
C554.
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the vehicle. Refer to the Power Distribution Diagram Set to get a more detailed
understanding of how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on. Individual circuit
schematics begin with a fuse. So if Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another
circuit share a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good
and power is available to the inoperative circuit.
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share the same
ground point.
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8485
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8486
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8488
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8489
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8490
How to Identify Connector Terminals
Connector terminals are numbered according to the cavities they are in. The cavities are numbered
starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side or looking at the
female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the
same. All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not
the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the
connector face.
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8491
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown above is #6.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Shift Indicator > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8492
The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice
connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for
all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement
terminal availability.
On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged,
replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If
any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it.
Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the
wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the
terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to
make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a
factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS.
Use the tools from Pin Tool Set. First, check the connector that you are about to repair.
- If it has a secondary terminal lock, go to Connectors With a Secondary Lock. A secondary lock,
found on most connectors on some models, is an additional locking device on the connector
housing as a backup for the primary lock on the terminal.
- If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock.
All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the
secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the
connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities.
EXAMPLE A:
EXAMPLE B:
EXAMPLE C:
EXAMPLE D:
2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW
TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE E:
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8496
1. Remove the secondary locks.
2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW
TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE F:
3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of
connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary
in size and shape.
EXAMPLE A:
EXAMPLE B:
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Shift Indicator > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8498
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE C:
EXAMPLE D:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Shift Indicator > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8499
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE E:
EXAMPLE F:
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Shift Indicator > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8500
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE G:
1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct
replacement terminal based on the wire size range
NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part
number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available
through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures.
2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool.
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8501
3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the
wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from
the kit.)
NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did,
cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again.
4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the
anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown
in step 3.
6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact.
- If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool
over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the
stops make contact.
- If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully
squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape.
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8502
8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the following NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and
start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the
way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure
10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector.
Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too
short or when access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair.
On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged,
replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If
any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it.
1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from
Pin Tool Set.
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8503
2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal,
then strip about half of the insulation off that piece.
This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal.
NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will
not nick or cut off any strands of wires.
3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and
same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit
onto the stripped end of the original wire.
5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the
pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more
than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at
the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the
harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make
each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail.
7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends
of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue
NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the
stripper.
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8504
8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the
flare begins), and close the crimper handles far
enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click,
squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open.
9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the
wire all the way into the splice connector, and
squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until
the ratchet clicks again.
10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After
crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the
connector.
12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire(s), and shield them with
nonflammable material.
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8505
13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the
gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat
evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete
when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube.
NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun.
Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the
wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size)
splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select
the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in
quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures.
Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the
Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching
connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body.
1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector.
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8506
2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool.
NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal
because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit.
3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal
with a replacement terminal from the appropriate
Five-Step Troubleshooting
Five-Step Troubleshooting
Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint.
Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
problem area.
Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by
tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground (certain
circuits contain a "How the Circuit Works" Diagram set). Also, trace circuits that share wiring with
the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on,
are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step
1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used
only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely
cause.
Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more
possible causes.
Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple
procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to
make tests at points that are easily accessible.
Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe
procedures.
Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire
problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure
no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur.
Test Equipment
Test Equipment
CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
1O-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up
of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to
various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is
voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital
volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is
between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM).
In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low
resistance means good continuity.
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Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a
reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is
affecting the measurement.
To order any test equipment shown, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool
numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin.
Jumper Wire
Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder
connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire
across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse.
To order any test equipment shown, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool
numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin.
Troubleshooting Precautions
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION: -
Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
- Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles.
2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part
Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place.
CAUTION: -
Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8508
- Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-mega
ohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that
contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
Troubleshooting Tests
Troubleshooting Tests
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt
ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest
"OHMS" range.
2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you
want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end.
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8509
4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or
no reading (zero), means good continuity.
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem. Circuits must be operating when checking
voltage drop.
1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts
range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage
is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM
voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8510
160. A/T Gear Position Indicator Panel Light/Park Pin Switch (A/T)
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Low Tire Pressure Indicator: Service and Repair TPMS Indicator Reset
The TPMS (tire pressure monitoring system) has a low tire pressure indicator and a TPMS
indicator. When the TPMS control unit detects low pressure in a tire, or a problem in the system, it
turns on the appropriate indicator.
^ If low tire pressure is detected in one or more tires, the low tire pressure indicator comes on.
^ If low tire pressure and a problem in the system are detected, only the TPMS indicator comes on.
If the system is OK, the TPMS indicator and the low tire pressure indicator should come on when
you turn the ignition switch to ON (II), and then go off 2 seconds later. If they don't, there is a
problem with the system.
If the system detects low pressure in any of the four tires, the low tire pressure indicator comes on,
and the control unit will set one or more of these codes: DTC 11, 13, 15, 17. When the tire pressure
returns to normal, the control unit turns off the indicators and stores the DTC(s). However, if the
control unit detects a problem in the system during an indication of low tire pressure, it turns off the
low tire pressure indicator, stores the DTC(s), and turns on the TPMS indicator(s).
NOTE: Tire pressures increase slightly as the temperature in the tires rises during driving at
highway speeds. Pressures can also increase or decrease slightly with changes in outside air
temperature. A temperature change of about 18°F (10°C) changes tire pressure by about 10 kPa
(0.1 kgf/cm2, 1.5 psi). If the temperature drops, tire pressure could decrease just enough to turn on
the low tire pressure indicator, but later, the tire temperature could increase enough to turn the
indicator off. To resolve a complaint of such intermittent indications, confirm and clear the stored
DTC(s) and check the tire pressures. Then explain to the customer how temperature changes can
affect the system, especially when tire pressures are near the low end of the TPMS normal range -
168 to 220 kPa (1.7 to 2.2 kgf/cm2, 24 to 32 psi).
If a problem is detected in the system, the TPMS indicator comes on and stays on until the system
returns to normal with most DTCs. If DTC 81, 83 or 85 is set, the TPMS indicator goes off only
when the ignition switch is turned to LOCK (0).
When a flat tire is replaced with the spare tire, the TPMS indicator comes on (DTC 32, 34, 36 or
38) because the system is no longer receiving the signal from the tire's transmitter. This is not a
problem with the spare tire.
After rotating the tires or replacing a tire pressure sensor, drive the vehicle for at least 40 seconds
at a speed of 15 mph (24 km/h) or more, and all the sensor IDs are memorized automatically.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Tire Monitoring System > Tire Pressure
Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tire Monitor System - VT55 TPMS Update Information
Tire Pressure Module: Technical Service Bulletins Tire Monitor System - VT55 TPMS Update
Information
09-070
INTRODUCTION
The software for the VT55 TPMS tool is updated periodically to add new vehicles, fix software
bugs, and enhance the tool's function. You can use the ATEQ update wizard to download software
and firmware to your VT55 using a PC and the Internet. It is extremely important to use the latest
VT55 software to ensure that the current TPMS initialization and diagnostic procedures are used.
American Honda is also introducing a new policy to ensure that VT55 tools are updated promptly.
The VT55 software must now be updated within 3 days of receiving notification of an available
update from an iN message or other Honda communication. If an out-of-date version is used, any
TPMS replacements may not be covered under warranty.
^ VT55 Tool Kit (includes VT55, AC adapter, USB cable and CD): P/N AEQVT55
P/N AEQVT555
^ Internet access
To order the VT55, or the USB connector, go to the Honda Tool and Equipment catalog on the iN
(select Service > Service Bay > Tool and Equipment > Online Catalog), or call.
SOFTWARE VERSION
To check the VT55 version software, turn on the unit and the version number appears for about 2
seconds during the startup process. If you miss it, turn the VT55 off by pressing and holding the
power switch for about 2 seconds, then turn it back on.
1. Go online to
update.ateq.com/software/webvt/update_webvt.zip
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2. Depending on your Internet connection, the Connect to update screen may appear. If so, enter
the login and password.
Login: webvt
Password: update
3. The File Download screen appears. Select Save. The Zip file will be saved to your computer.
4. After the Zip file finishes downloading, open the update - webvt.zip file by double-clicking on it.
5. The WinZip - update - webvt.zip screen appears. Double-click the WebVT55_V4_2.exe file.
NOTE:
If you see a Compressed (Zipped) Folders Error, contact your IT person because there is a
permissions issue with your firewall.
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Page 8524
6. The WinZip Caution screen appears. Select Yes.
7. If you have a previous version of the WebVT software installed on your computer, the
InstallShield Wizard gives you the option to modify, repair, or
If you have a previous software version, select Modify, then Next. After the software is modified
select Finish.
11. The InstallShield Wizard will prompt you when WebVT is installed on your computer. Select
Finish.
12. The serial emulation port driver installer screen appears. Connect your VT55, and turn it on.
Select Next.
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13. After a few seconds, the serial emulation port driver installer prompts you when it is finished.
Select Finish.
14. If you have any problems installing the VT55 update software, call ATEQ at 734-838-3100, and
select option 2 for service.
NOTE:
^ Some screens may list the tool as VT5O or VT55. This is OK; it will not affect updating the tool.
^ If at any time during the update an error message appears, or the VT55 is not detected, see the
Standard User Guide that is on the ATEQ CD that came with the tool, or call ATEQ at
734-838-3100, and select option 2 for service.
1. Go to your desktop, and double-click the WebVT icon to launch the VT55 update software.
2. Connect the VT55 to your PC with the USB cable, then turn it on. The serial number and current
software version automatically display.
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3. The Found New Hardware Wizard may appear. If it does, select Yes, now and every time I
connect a device, then select Next.
4. The Found New Hardware Wizard prompts you to install the ATEQ R5232 Emulation software.
Select Install the software automatically
5. The Found New Hardware Wizard will prompt you when the software is installed. Select Finish.
6. Select UPDATE DEVICE. Depending on your Internet connection, you may be prompted for a
login and password. If you know your login and
password, enter them, otherwise, contact your administrator or internet service provider for the
login and password.
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7. If a new software version is available, you'll see a message asking if you want to update the
VT55. Select Yes.
NOTE:
Do not disconnect the VT55 during the update procedure, as you may permanently damage the
tool.
If no new software version is available, you'll see a message asking if you want to overwrite the
existing software. Select No.
8. The Dealer Identification screen appears. Enter your 6-digit dealer number, then select Apply.
9. If the dealer number is valid, your dealership's name and address appears in the dealer
information box. Select NEXT.
If the dealership number is not valid, call the American Honda Special Tools Hotline for assistance.
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10. The VT55 begins updating. When the VT55 is finished updating, you'll see a message stating
the update is done. Disconnect the VT55, then select
OK.
11. Let the VT55 turn off (for about 1 minute). Turn it on, and confirm that the software is updated
to the software version listed under SOFTWARE
VERSION.
12. If you have more than one VT55, repeat the update procedure for each unit.
13. Once all VT55s are updated, select EXIT, and store the USB cable in a safe location for future
updates.
Disclaimer
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Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 8530
NOTE: Make sure the TPMS control unit mounting bracket is not bent or twisted as this may affect
its communication with the tire pressure sensors.
1. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). 2. Remove the driver's dashboard undercover. 3.
Disconnect the TPMS control unit connector (A).
4. Remove the TPMS control unit (B) from the bracket (C).
NOTE: While separating the TPMS control unit from the bracket, add in a flat-tipped screwdriver
between the TPMS control unit and the bracket at shown aria (D) to release the hook (E), and slide
out the TPMS control unit from the bracket.
5. Replace the bracket if necessary. 6. Install the TPMS control unit in the reverse order of
removal.
NOTE: Make sure the TPMS control unit is properly installed. You will hear a click when the TPMS
control unit is securely mounted on the bracket.
7. Connect the HDS, and memorize the pressure sensor IDs using the TPMS sensor initializer tool.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Tire Monitoring System > Tire Pressure
Monitor Receiver / Transponder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tire Monitor System - Usage of
TPMS Sensor Tools
Tire Pressure Monitor Receiver / Transponder: Technical Service Bulletins Tire Monitor System -
Usage of TPMS Sensor Tools
06-072
(Supersedes 06-072, dated January 5, 2007, to update the information marked by the black bars
and asterisks)
*VEHICLES AFFECTED
INTRODUCTION
Beginning with some 2007 models, Honda is using a second type of TPMS (tire pressure
monitoring system) that does not use initiators like the 2006 and earlier
TPMS.
^ Are mounted on the inside of the rim, connected to the valve stem.
^ Use a wireless transmission to send tire pressure and temperature information to the TPMS unit.
^ Use non-replaceable batteries. To save battery life, the sensors turn on only when the vehicle is
being used.
*The first type of TPMS (all vehicles through 2006) uses initiators mounted above each wheel.
When you turn the ignition switch to ON (II), the initiators send out a low frequency signal to turn on
the TPMS sensors. The initiator, in conjunction with the TPMS control unit, determines the tire
location. For example, if the right front tire is low on air, the customer sees the low tire pressure
indicator and an indiction that the right front tire is low on pressure. The initiator-type TPMS, or
location-type TPMS (in the HDS), is used on the 2005-08 Pilot, the 2006-08 Ridgeline, and the
2005-08 Odyssey Touring models.*
The new TPMS does not use initiators. The TPMS sensors have a built-in acceleration sensor that
turns on the TPMS sensors when the vehicle speed reaches about 25 mph. Without an initiator, the
TPMS control unit cannot determine tire location. For example, if the right front tire is low on air, the
customer sees only the low pressure indicator and must check all four tires to find the problem tire.
During diagnosis, the TPMS control unit provides a code for each tire.
NOTE:
^ During diagnosis, the TPMS control unit gives a tire number, but you need to do the sensor
position check to find the location of the tire number.
^ Use with HDS software version 2.011.010 or later. The initiator-less TPMS, or no location-type
TPMS, is used on vehicles affected by this bulletin.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Tire Monitoring System > Tire Pressure
Monitor Receiver / Transponder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tire Monitor System - Usage of
TPMS Sensor Tools > Page 8539
A TPMS sensor tool is used for troubleshooting and replacing the TPMS sensors. See TOOL
DESCRIPTION for more information.
WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION
None.
TOOL INFORMATION
TOOL DESCRIPTION
The TPMS sensor tool is a wireless tool that is used with the HDS for troubleshooting (sensor
position check) and for replacing TPMS sensors or the control unit (sensor ID learning).
General use:
^ Always make sure the TPMS sensor tool is set to low power unless otherwise instructed.
*^ Make sure there are no vehicles or other wheels with TPMS sensors within 10 feet of the vehicle
you are working on.
^ Make sure the batteries are in good condition and secure in the case. Refer to ServiceNews
article A07050D, Keep Those TPMS Sensor Tool Batteries From Popping Loose, for more
information.*
^ Turn on the TPMS sensor tool by following the HDS instructions. There are two different
wavelengths used, and there are two ways to turn on the TPMS sensor tool. If the TPMS sensor
tool is not turned on correctly, you won't be able to troubleshoot the vehicle or do the sensor ID
learning procedure.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
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Monitor Receiver / Transponder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tire Monitor System - Usage of
TPMS Sensor Tools > Page 8540
^ Turn off the TPMS sensor tool by pressing and holding the small button as shown until the green
light in the button turns off. The tool will also turn off after 5 minutes of inactivity.
NOTE:
Offset your finger, or use just your nail to push the buttons, so you can see the light in the buttons.
Two AC adapters are included in the TPMS sensor tool kit. The 900 AC adapter is for the battery
charger. Use the straight AC adapter to power the TPMS sensor tool when charged batteries are
not available.
NOTE:
^ The AC adapter does not charge the batteries in the TPMS sensor tool.
^ Remove the batteries from the TPMS sensor tool when using the AC adapter.
There are two ways to charge the batteries. The method to use depends on the batteries' state of
charge. For brand new or fully discharged batteries:
1. Connect the AC adapter to the charger (make sure you use the AC adapter with the 90° bend).
2. Insert the batteries into the charger. Make sure you note the polarity (direction) of the batteries.
3. Plug the charger into a power outlet. The LEDs turn red, and quick charging begins.
NOTE:
^ If the LEDs do not come on, check that the batteries are properly installed. If the LEDs still do not
come on, replace the batteries.
^ If you press the red button while the batteries are charging, the battery discharge mode begins.
Press the red button again within 30 seconds, and the charger switches back to its quick charge
mode.
^ When the LEDs turn green, the batteries are charged, and the battery charger automatically
switches to trickle charge mode.
^ Remove the batteries from the charger when it is not plugged in.
For charging batteries when you don't know the state of charge:
1. Connect the AC adapter to the charger (make sure you use the AC adapter with the 90° bend).
2. Insert the batteries into the charger. Make sure you note the polarity (direction) of the batteries.
4. Press the red button once to start the discharge mode. The LEDs blink red.
NOTE:
^ If the LEDs do not come on, check that the batteries are properly installed. If the LEDs still do not
come on, replace the batteries.
^ If you press the red button a second time within 30 seconds, the battery quick charge mode
begins.
^ Once the batteries are discharged, the LEDs turn solid red and the battery quick charge mode
begins.
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TPMS Sensor Tools > Page 8541
^ When the LEDs turn green, the batteries are charged, and the battery charger automatically
switches to trickle charge mode.
^ Remove the batteries from the charger when it is not plugged in.
When the TPMS sets a DTC, it refers to Tire 1, Tire 2, Tire 3, or Tire 4. In the service manual, the
tire number is the sensor number. For example, Tire 2 is sensor 2.
However, the tire number is not the tire position. To diagnose or repair the vehicle, do the sensor
position check to find the location of the problem tire (or sensor) on the vehicle.
7. In the System Selection Menu, select TPMS, then select the Enter button.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Tire Monitoring System > Tire Pressure
Monitor Receiver / Transponder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tire Monitor System - Usage of
TPMS Sensor Tools > Page 8543
8. In the Mode menu, select Functional Tests, then select the Enter button.
9. In the Functional Test menu, select Sensor Position Check, then select the Enter button.
*10. On the Sensor Position Check screen, turn on the TPMS sensor tool by following the
on-screen instructions. (The Accord is shown on the sample
screen.)*
NOTE:
Each model is different. Turning on the TPMS sensor tool incorrectly could lead to incorrect
diagnosis and repair.
Once the TPMS sensor tool is turned on, select the YES button.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
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Monitor Receiver / Transponder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tire Monitor System - Usage of
TPMS Sensor Tools > Page 8544
11. Follow the instructions on the Sensor Position Check screen. When prompted, go to the left
front wheel, then select the Enter button.
12. Wait about 5 seconds, and the Sensor Position Check screen changes to an operation
progress bar.
* NOTE:
^ Wait for the timer to start. When the blue bar appears, use the TPMS sensor tool.*
^ If the sensor IDs appear without the TPMS sensor tool button being pushed, a TPMS sensor is
transmitting. Select the Exit button, wait 5 minutes for the sensor to go to sleep, then follow the
on-screen prompts.
13. Point and hold the TPMS sensor tool 10 to 20 inches from the left front wheel valve stem. Press
and hold the large transmit button for up to 1 minute. The button should flash red. The TPMS
sensor tool sends a signal to the TPMS sensor to turn on and broadcast the TPMS sensor ID to the
TPMS control unit.
14. Watch for the TPMS sensor IDs to appear on the HDS screen. The TPMS control unit must
read the sensor ID five times to complete the learning
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Tire Monitoring System > Tire Pressure
Monitor Receiver / Transponder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tire Monitor System - Usage of
TPMS Sensor Tools > Page 8545
procedure.
NOTE:
15. The TPMS sensor ID learning changes to the following screen once the procedure is complete.
Select the Enter button.
NOTE:
If the sensor does not respond (no sensor IDs are displayed), rotate the tire one-quarter turn and
try again. If the TPMS sensor does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, switch the tire to a
known-good location and try again. If the TPMS sensor still does not respond after one full rotation
of the tire, replace the TPMS sensor.
16. When prompted, go to the left rear wheel, then select the Enter button.
17. The TPMS sensor ID learning procedure goes through the same steps as the left front wheel
(see steps 12 thru 15). When the timer starts (the blue bar appears), point and hold the TPMS
sensor tool 10 to 20 inches from the left rear wheel valve stem. Press and hold the large transmit
button for up to 1 minute. The button should flash red. The TPMS sensor tool sends a signal to the
TPMS sensor to turn on and broadcast the TPMS sensor
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Tire Monitoring System > Tire Pressure
Monitor Receiver / Transponder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tire Monitor System - Usage of
TPMS Sensor Tools > Page 8546
ID to the TPMS control unit.
NOTE:
^ If the sensor IDs appear without the TPMS sensor tool button being pushed, a TPMS sensor is
transmitting. Select the Exit button, wait 5 minutes for the sensors to go to sleep, then follow the
on-screen prompts.
^ If the sensor does not respond (no sensor IDs are displayed), rotate the tire one-quarter turn and
try again. If the TPMS sensor does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, switch the tire to a
known-good location and try again. If the TPMS sensor still does not respond after one full rotation
of the tire, replace the TPMS sensor.
18. When prompted, go to the right rear wheel, then select the Enter button.
19. The TPMS sensor ID learning procedure goes through the same steps as the left front wheel
(see steps 12 thru 15). When the timer starts (the blue bar appears), point and hold the TPMS
sensor tool 10 to 20 inches from the right rear wheel valve stem. Press and hold the large transmit
button for up to 1 minute. The button should flash red. The TPMS sensor tool sends a signal to the
TPMS sensor to turn on and broadcast the TPMS sensor ID to the TPMS control unit.
NOTE:
^ If the sensor IDs appear without the TPMS sensor tool button being pushed, a TPMS sensor is
transmitting. Select the Exit button, wait 5 minutes for the sensors to go to sleep, then follow the
on-screen prompts.
^ If the sensor does not respond (no sensor IDs are displayed), rotate the tire one-quarter turn and
try again. If the TPMS sensor does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, switch the tire to a
known-good location and try again. If the TPMS sensor still does not respond after one full rotation
of the tire, replace the TPMS sensor.
20. When prompted, go to the right front wheel, then select the Enter button.
21. The TPMS sensor ID learning procedure goes through the same steps as the left front wheel
(see steps 12 thru 15). When the timer starts (the blue bar appears), point and hold the TPMS
sensor tool 10 to 20 inches from the right front wheel valve stem. Press and hold the large transmit
button for up to 1 minute. The button should flash red. The TPMS sensor tool sends a signal to the
TPMS sensor to turn on and broadcast the TPMS
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Monitor Receiver / Transponder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tire Monitor System - Usage of
TPMS Sensor Tools > Page 8547
NOTE:
^ If the sensor IDs appear without the TPMS sensor tool button being pushed, a TPMS sensor is
transmitting. Select the Exit button, wait 5 minutes for the sensors to go to sleep, then follow the
on-screen prompts.
^ If the sensor does not respond (no sensor IDs are displayed), rotate the tire one-quarter turn and
try again. If the TPMS sensor does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, switch the tire to a
known-good location and try again. If the TPMS sensor still does not respond after one full rotation
of the tire, replace the TPMS sensor.
22. The sensor position check is complete. Using the DTC(s) and the information on the Sensor
Position Check screen, locate the problem tire.
If the vehicle has DTC 22-1,this means that the problem is in tire 2 (sensor 2).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
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Monitor Receiver / Transponder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tire Monitor System - Usage of
TPMS Sensor Tools > Page 8548
You must refer to the Sensor Position Check screen to see what location tire 2 is in. Do not
assume it is in position 2 (left rear tire).
According to the Sensor Position Check screen tire 2 is in position 1, the left front tire.
SENSOR ID LEARNING
NOTE:
Even if you replace only one sensor, the Sensor ID Learning procedure must be done to all four
wheels.
6. In the Select Mode menu, select Honda Systems, and select the Enter button.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Tire Monitoring System > Tire Pressure
Monitor Receiver / Transponder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tire Monitor System - Usage of
TPMS Sensor Tools > Page 8550
7. In the System Selection Menu, select TPMS, then select the Enter button.
8. In the Mode Menu, select Sensor ID Learning, then select the Enter button.
NOTE:
Make sure there are no other vehicles or other wheels with TPMS sensors within 10 feet of the
vehicle you are working on.
10. On the TPMS Sensor ID Learning screen, turn on the TPMS sensor tool by following the
on-screen instructions. The Accord is shown on the sample screen.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
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Monitor Receiver / Transponder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tire Monitor System - Usage of
TPMS Sensor Tools > Page 8551
NOTE:
Each model is different. Turning on the TPMS sensor tool incorrectly could lead to incorrect
diagnosis and repair.
Once the TPMS sensor tool is turned on, select the YES button.
11. Follow the instructions on the TPMS Sensor ID Learning screen. When prompted, go to the left
front wheel, then select the Enter button.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
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Monitor Receiver / Transponder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tire Monitor System - Usage of
TPMS Sensor Tools > Page 8552
12. Wait about 5 seconds, and the TPMS Sensor ID Learning screen should change to an
operation progress bar.
NOTE:
^ Wait for the timer to start. When you see the blue bar, use the TPMS sensor tool.
^ If the sensor IDs appear without the TPMS sensor tool button being pushed, a TPMS sensor is
transmitting. Select the Exit button, wait 5 minutes for the sensor to go to sleep, then follow the
on-screen prompts.
13. Point and hold the TPMS sensor tool 10 to 20 inches from the left front wheel valve stem. Press
and hold the large transmit button for up to 1 minute. The button should flash red. The TPMS
sensor tool sends a signal to the TPMS sensor to turn on and broadcast the TPMS sensor ID to the
TPMS control unit.
14. Watch for the TPMS sensor IDs to appear on the HDS screen The TPMS control unit must read
the sensor ID five times to complete the learning procedure.
NOTE:
15. The TPMS sensor ID learning changes to the following screen once the procedure is complete.
Select the Enter button.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
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Monitor Receiver / Transponder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tire Monitor System - Usage of
TPMS Sensor Tools > Page 8553
NOTE:
If the sensor does not respond (no sensor IDs are displayed), rotate the tire one-quarter turn and
try again. If the TPMS sensor does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, switch the tire to a
known-good location and try again. If the TPMS sensor still does not respond after one full rotation
of the tire, replace the TPMS sensor.
16. When prompted, go to the left rear wheel, then select the Enter button.
17. The TPMS sensor ID learning procedure goes through the same steps as the left front wheel
(see steps 12 thru 15). When the timer starts (the blue bar appears), point and hold the TPMS
sensor tool 10 to 20 inches from the left rear wheel valve stem. Press and hold the large transmit
button for up to 1 minute. The button should flash red. The TPMS sensor tool sends a signal to the
TPMS sensor to turn on and broadcast the TPMS sensor ID to the TPMS control unit.
NOTE:
^ If the sensor IDs appear without the TPMS sensor tool button being pushed, a TPMS sensor is
transmitting. Select the Exit button, wait 5 minutes for the sensor to go to sleep, then follow the
on-screen prompts.
^ If the sensor does not respond (no sensor IDs are displayed), rotate the tire one-quarter turn and
try again. If the TPMS sensor does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, switch the tire to a
known-good location and try again. If the TPMS sensor still does not respond after one full rotation
of the tire, replace the TPMS sensor.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
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TPMS Sensor Tools > Page 8554
18. When prompted, go to the right rear wheel, then select the Enter button.
19. The TPMS sensor ID learning procedure goes through the same steps as the left front wheel
(see steps 12 thru 15). When the timer starts (the blue bar appears), point and hold the TPMS
sensor tool 10 to 20 inches from the right rear wheel valve stem. Press and hold the large transmit
button for up to 1 minute. The button should flash red. The TPMS sensor tool sends a signal to the
TPMS sensor to turn on and broadcast the TPMS sensor ID to the TPMS control unit.
NOTE:
^ If the sensor IDs appear without the TPMS sensor tool button being pushed, a TPMS sensor is
transmitting. Select the Exit button, wait 5 minutes for the sensor to go to sleep, then follow the
on-screen prompts.
^ If the sensor does not respond (no sensor IDs are displayed), rotate the tire one-quarter turn and
try again. If the TPMS sensor does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, switch the tire to a
known-good location and try again. If the TPMS sensor still does not respond after one full rotation
of the tire, replace the TPMS sensor.
20. When prompted, go to the right front wheel, then select the Enter button.
21. The TPMS sensor ID learning procedure goes through the same steps as the left front wheel
(see steps 12 thru 15). When the timer starts (the blue bar appears), point and hold the TPMS
sensor tool 10 to 20 inches from the right front wheel valve stem. Press and hold the large transmit
button for up to 1 minute. The button should flash red. The TPMS sensor tool sends a signal to the
TPMS sensor to turn on and broadcast the TPMS sensor ID to the TPMS control unit.
NOTE:
^ If the sensor IDs appear without the TPMS sensor tool button being pushed, a TPMS sensor is
transmitting. Select the Exit button, wait 5 minutes for the sensor to go to sleep, then follow the
on-screen prompts.
^ If the sensor does not respond (no sensor IDs are displayed), rotate the tire one-quarter turn and
try again. If the TPMS sensor does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, switch the tire to a
known-good location and try again. If the TPMS sensor still does not respond after one full rotation
of the tire, replace the TPMS sensor.
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22. The sensor ID learning procedure is complete. Select the Enter button to continue to register
the TPMS sensor IDs in the TPMS unit.
23. The low tire pressure indicator is flashing and requires road-testing the vehicle. On the TPMS
Sensor ID Learning screen, select the Enter button.
24. Drive the vehicle for 2 minutes above 30 mph, or until the low tire pressure indicator goes off.
Once the indicator goes off, stop the vehicle.
25. In the Mode Menu, select the Data List, and then select the Enter button. Check the tire
pressure at all four tires to confirm that the TPMS control unit is reading the correct tire pressures.
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26. Return to the Mode Menu, select DTCs, then select the Enter button.
Disclaimer
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Tire Monitoring System > Tire Pressure
Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tire Monitor System - Usage of TPMS Sensor Tools
Tire Pressure Sensor: Technical Service Bulletins Tire Monitor System - Usage of TPMS Sensor
Tools
06-072
(Supersedes 06-072, dated January 5, 2007, to update the information marked by the black bars
and asterisks)
*VEHICLES AFFECTED
INTRODUCTION
Beginning with some 2007 models, Honda is using a second type of TPMS (tire pressure
monitoring system) that does not use initiators like the 2006 and earlier
TPMS.
^ Are mounted on the inside of the rim, connected to the valve stem.
^ Use a wireless transmission to send tire pressure and temperature information to the TPMS unit.
^ Use non-replaceable batteries. To save battery life, the sensors turn on only when the vehicle is
being used.
*The first type of TPMS (all vehicles through 2006) uses initiators mounted above each wheel.
When you turn the ignition switch to ON (II), the initiators send out a low frequency signal to turn on
the TPMS sensors. The initiator, in conjunction with the TPMS control unit, determines the tire
location. For example, if the right front tire is low on air, the customer sees the low tire pressure
indicator and an indiction that the right front tire is low on pressure. The initiator-type TPMS, or
location-type TPMS (in the HDS), is used on the 2005-08 Pilot, the 2006-08 Ridgeline, and the
2005-08 Odyssey Touring models.*
The new TPMS does not use initiators. The TPMS sensors have a built-in acceleration sensor that
turns on the TPMS sensors when the vehicle speed reaches about 25 mph. Without an initiator, the
TPMS control unit cannot determine tire location. For example, if the right front tire is low on air, the
customer sees only the low pressure indicator and must check all four tires to find the problem tire.
During diagnosis, the TPMS control unit provides a code for each tire.
NOTE:
^ During diagnosis, the TPMS control unit gives a tire number, but you need to do the sensor
position check to find the location of the tire number.
^ Use with HDS software version 2.011.010 or later. The initiator-less TPMS, or no location-type
TPMS, is used on vehicles affected by this bulletin.
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A TPMS sensor tool is used for troubleshooting and replacing the TPMS sensors. See TOOL
DESCRIPTION for more information.
WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION
None.
TOOL INFORMATION
TOOL DESCRIPTION
The TPMS sensor tool is a wireless tool that is used with the HDS for troubleshooting (sensor
position check) and for replacing TPMS sensors or the control unit (sensor ID learning).
General use:
^ Always make sure the TPMS sensor tool is set to low power unless otherwise instructed.
*^ Make sure there are no vehicles or other wheels with TPMS sensors within 10 feet of the vehicle
you are working on.
^ Make sure the batteries are in good condition and secure in the case. Refer to ServiceNews
article A07050D, Keep Those TPMS Sensor Tool Batteries From Popping Loose, for more
information.*
^ Turn on the TPMS sensor tool by following the HDS instructions. There are two different
wavelengths used, and there are two ways to turn on the TPMS sensor tool. If the TPMS sensor
tool is not turned on correctly, you won't be able to troubleshoot the vehicle or do the sensor ID
learning procedure.
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^ Turn off the TPMS sensor tool by pressing and holding the small button as shown until the green
light in the button turns off. The tool will also turn off after 5 minutes of inactivity.
NOTE:
Offset your finger, or use just your nail to push the buttons, so you can see the light in the buttons.
Two AC adapters are included in the TPMS sensor tool kit. The 900 AC adapter is for the battery
charger. Use the straight AC adapter to power the TPMS sensor tool when charged batteries are
not available.
NOTE:
^ The AC adapter does not charge the batteries in the TPMS sensor tool.
^ Remove the batteries from the TPMS sensor tool when using the AC adapter.
There are two ways to charge the batteries. The method to use depends on the batteries' state of
charge. For brand new or fully discharged batteries:
1. Connect the AC adapter to the charger (make sure you use the AC adapter with the 90° bend).
2. Insert the batteries into the charger. Make sure you note the polarity (direction) of the batteries.
3. Plug the charger into a power outlet. The LEDs turn red, and quick charging begins.
NOTE:
^ If the LEDs do not come on, check that the batteries are properly installed. If the LEDs still do not
come on, replace the batteries.
^ If you press the red button while the batteries are charging, the battery discharge mode begins.
Press the red button again within 30 seconds, and the charger switches back to its quick charge
mode.
^ When the LEDs turn green, the batteries are charged, and the battery charger automatically
switches to trickle charge mode.
^ Remove the batteries from the charger when it is not plugged in.
For charging batteries when you don't know the state of charge:
1. Connect the AC adapter to the charger (make sure you use the AC adapter with the 90° bend).
2. Insert the batteries into the charger. Make sure you note the polarity (direction) of the batteries.
4. Press the red button once to start the discharge mode. The LEDs blink red.
NOTE:
^ If the LEDs do not come on, check that the batteries are properly installed. If the LEDs still do not
come on, replace the batteries.
^ If you press the red button a second time within 30 seconds, the battery quick charge mode
begins.
^ Once the batteries are discharged, the LEDs turn solid red and the battery quick charge mode
begins.
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^ When the LEDs turn green, the batteries are charged, and the battery charger automatically
switches to trickle charge mode.
^ Remove the batteries from the charger when it is not plugged in.
When the TPMS sets a DTC, it refers to Tire 1, Tire 2, Tire 3, or Tire 4. In the service manual, the
tire number is the sensor number. For example, Tire 2 is sensor 2.
However, the tire number is not the tire position. To diagnose or repair the vehicle, do the sensor
position check to find the location of the problem tire (or sensor) on the vehicle.
7. In the System Selection Menu, select TPMS, then select the Enter button.
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8. In the Mode menu, select Functional Tests, then select the Enter button.
9. In the Functional Test menu, select Sensor Position Check, then select the Enter button.
*10. On the Sensor Position Check screen, turn on the TPMS sensor tool by following the
on-screen instructions. (The Accord is shown on the sample
screen.)*
NOTE:
Each model is different. Turning on the TPMS sensor tool incorrectly could lead to incorrect
diagnosis and repair.
Once the TPMS sensor tool is turned on, select the YES button.
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11. Follow the instructions on the Sensor Position Check screen. When prompted, go to the left
front wheel, then select the Enter button.
12. Wait about 5 seconds, and the Sensor Position Check screen changes to an operation
progress bar.
* NOTE:
^ Wait for the timer to start. When the blue bar appears, use the TPMS sensor tool.*
^ If the sensor IDs appear without the TPMS sensor tool button being pushed, a TPMS sensor is
transmitting. Select the Exit button, wait 5 minutes for the sensor to go to sleep, then follow the
on-screen prompts.
13. Point and hold the TPMS sensor tool 10 to 20 inches from the left front wheel valve stem. Press
and hold the large transmit button for up to 1 minute. The button should flash red. The TPMS
sensor tool sends a signal to the TPMS sensor to turn on and broadcast the TPMS sensor ID to the
TPMS control unit.
14. Watch for the TPMS sensor IDs to appear on the HDS screen. The TPMS control unit must
read the sensor ID five times to complete the learning
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procedure.
NOTE:
15. The TPMS sensor ID learning changes to the following screen once the procedure is complete.
Select the Enter button.
NOTE:
If the sensor does not respond (no sensor IDs are displayed), rotate the tire one-quarter turn and
try again. If the TPMS sensor does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, switch the tire to a
known-good location and try again. If the TPMS sensor still does not respond after one full rotation
of the tire, replace the TPMS sensor.
16. When prompted, go to the left rear wheel, then select the Enter button.
17. The TPMS sensor ID learning procedure goes through the same steps as the left front wheel
(see steps 12 thru 15). When the timer starts (the blue bar appears), point and hold the TPMS
sensor tool 10 to 20 inches from the left rear wheel valve stem. Press and hold the large transmit
button for up to 1 minute. The button should flash red. The TPMS sensor tool sends a signal to the
TPMS sensor to turn on and broadcast the TPMS sensor
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ID to the TPMS control unit.
NOTE:
^ If the sensor IDs appear without the TPMS sensor tool button being pushed, a TPMS sensor is
transmitting. Select the Exit button, wait 5 minutes for the sensors to go to sleep, then follow the
on-screen prompts.
^ If the sensor does not respond (no sensor IDs are displayed), rotate the tire one-quarter turn and
try again. If the TPMS sensor does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, switch the tire to a
known-good location and try again. If the TPMS sensor still does not respond after one full rotation
of the tire, replace the TPMS sensor.
18. When prompted, go to the right rear wheel, then select the Enter button.
19. The TPMS sensor ID learning procedure goes through the same steps as the left front wheel
(see steps 12 thru 15). When the timer starts (the blue bar appears), point and hold the TPMS
sensor tool 10 to 20 inches from the right rear wheel valve stem. Press and hold the large transmit
button for up to 1 minute. The button should flash red. The TPMS sensor tool sends a signal to the
TPMS sensor to turn on and broadcast the TPMS sensor ID to the TPMS control unit.
NOTE:
^ If the sensor IDs appear without the TPMS sensor tool button being pushed, a TPMS sensor is
transmitting. Select the Exit button, wait 5 minutes for the sensors to go to sleep, then follow the
on-screen prompts.
^ If the sensor does not respond (no sensor IDs are displayed), rotate the tire one-quarter turn and
try again. If the TPMS sensor does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, switch the tire to a
known-good location and try again. If the TPMS sensor still does not respond after one full rotation
of the tire, replace the TPMS sensor.
20. When prompted, go to the right front wheel, then select the Enter button.
21. The TPMS sensor ID learning procedure goes through the same steps as the left front wheel
(see steps 12 thru 15). When the timer starts (the blue bar appears), point and hold the TPMS
sensor tool 10 to 20 inches from the right front wheel valve stem. Press and hold the large transmit
button for up to 1 minute. The button should flash red. The TPMS sensor tool sends a signal to the
TPMS sensor to turn on and broadcast the TPMS
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NOTE:
^ If the sensor IDs appear without the TPMS sensor tool button being pushed, a TPMS sensor is
transmitting. Select the Exit button, wait 5 minutes for the sensors to go to sleep, then follow the
on-screen prompts.
^ If the sensor does not respond (no sensor IDs are displayed), rotate the tire one-quarter turn and
try again. If the TPMS sensor does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, switch the tire to a
known-good location and try again. If the TPMS sensor still does not respond after one full rotation
of the tire, replace the TPMS sensor.
22. The sensor position check is complete. Using the DTC(s) and the information on the Sensor
Position Check screen, locate the problem tire.
If the vehicle has DTC 22-1,this means that the problem is in tire 2 (sensor 2).
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You must refer to the Sensor Position Check screen to see what location tire 2 is in. Do not
assume it is in position 2 (left rear tire).
According to the Sensor Position Check screen tire 2 is in position 1, the left front tire.
SENSOR ID LEARNING
NOTE:
Even if you replace only one sensor, the Sensor ID Learning procedure must be done to all four
wheels.
6. In the Select Mode menu, select Honda Systems, and select the Enter button.
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7. In the System Selection Menu, select TPMS, then select the Enter button.
8. In the Mode Menu, select Sensor ID Learning, then select the Enter button.
NOTE:
Make sure there are no other vehicles or other wheels with TPMS sensors within 10 feet of the
vehicle you are working on.
10. On the TPMS Sensor ID Learning screen, turn on the TPMS sensor tool by following the
on-screen instructions. The Accord is shown on the sample screen.
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NOTE:
Each model is different. Turning on the TPMS sensor tool incorrectly could lead to incorrect
diagnosis and repair.
Once the TPMS sensor tool is turned on, select the YES button.
11. Follow the instructions on the TPMS Sensor ID Learning screen. When prompted, go to the left
front wheel, then select the Enter button.
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12. Wait about 5 seconds, and the TPMS Sensor ID Learning screen should change to an
operation progress bar.
NOTE:
^ Wait for the timer to start. When you see the blue bar, use the TPMS sensor tool.
^ If the sensor IDs appear without the TPMS sensor tool button being pushed, a TPMS sensor is
transmitting. Select the Exit button, wait 5 minutes for the sensor to go to sleep, then follow the
on-screen prompts.
13. Point and hold the TPMS sensor tool 10 to 20 inches from the left front wheel valve stem. Press
and hold the large transmit button for up to 1 minute. The button should flash red. The TPMS
sensor tool sends a signal to the TPMS sensor to turn on and broadcast the TPMS sensor ID to the
TPMS control unit.
14. Watch for the TPMS sensor IDs to appear on the HDS screen The TPMS control unit must read
the sensor ID five times to complete the learning procedure.
NOTE:
15. The TPMS sensor ID learning changes to the following screen once the procedure is complete.
Select the Enter button.
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NOTE:
If the sensor does not respond (no sensor IDs are displayed), rotate the tire one-quarter turn and
try again. If the TPMS sensor does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, switch the tire to a
known-good location and try again. If the TPMS sensor still does not respond after one full rotation
of the tire, replace the TPMS sensor.
16. When prompted, go to the left rear wheel, then select the Enter button.
17. The TPMS sensor ID learning procedure goes through the same steps as the left front wheel
(see steps 12 thru 15). When the timer starts (the blue bar appears), point and hold the TPMS
sensor tool 10 to 20 inches from the left rear wheel valve stem. Press and hold the large transmit
button for up to 1 minute. The button should flash red. The TPMS sensor tool sends a signal to the
TPMS sensor to turn on and broadcast the TPMS sensor ID to the TPMS control unit.
NOTE:
^ If the sensor IDs appear without the TPMS sensor tool button being pushed, a TPMS sensor is
transmitting. Select the Exit button, wait 5 minutes for the sensor to go to sleep, then follow the
on-screen prompts.
^ If the sensor does not respond (no sensor IDs are displayed), rotate the tire one-quarter turn and
try again. If the TPMS sensor does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, switch the tire to a
known-good location and try again. If the TPMS sensor still does not respond after one full rotation
of the tire, replace the TPMS sensor.
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18. When prompted, go to the right rear wheel, then select the Enter button.
19. The TPMS sensor ID learning procedure goes through the same steps as the left front wheel
(see steps 12 thru 15). When the timer starts (the blue bar appears), point and hold the TPMS
sensor tool 10 to 20 inches from the right rear wheel valve stem. Press and hold the large transmit
button for up to 1 minute. The button should flash red. The TPMS sensor tool sends a signal to the
TPMS sensor to turn on and broadcast the TPMS sensor ID to the TPMS control unit.
NOTE:
^ If the sensor IDs appear without the TPMS sensor tool button being pushed, a TPMS sensor is
transmitting. Select the Exit button, wait 5 minutes for the sensor to go to sleep, then follow the
on-screen prompts.
^ If the sensor does not respond (no sensor IDs are displayed), rotate the tire one-quarter turn and
try again. If the TPMS sensor does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, switch the tire to a
known-good location and try again. If the TPMS sensor still does not respond after one full rotation
of the tire, replace the TPMS sensor.
20. When prompted, go to the right front wheel, then select the Enter button.
21. The TPMS sensor ID learning procedure goes through the same steps as the left front wheel
(see steps 12 thru 15). When the timer starts (the blue bar appears), point and hold the TPMS
sensor tool 10 to 20 inches from the right front wheel valve stem. Press and hold the large transmit
button for up to 1 minute. The button should flash red. The TPMS sensor tool sends a signal to the
TPMS sensor to turn on and broadcast the TPMS sensor ID to the TPMS control unit.
NOTE:
^ If the sensor IDs appear without the TPMS sensor tool button being pushed, a TPMS sensor is
transmitting. Select the Exit button, wait 5 minutes for the sensor to go to sleep, then follow the
on-screen prompts.
^ If the sensor does not respond (no sensor IDs are displayed), rotate the tire one-quarter turn and
try again. If the TPMS sensor does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, switch the tire to a
known-good location and try again. If the TPMS sensor still does not respond after one full rotation
of the tire, replace the TPMS sensor.
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22. The sensor ID learning procedure is complete. Select the Enter button to continue to register
the TPMS sensor IDs in the TPMS unit.
23. The low tire pressure indicator is flashing and requires road-testing the vehicle. On the TPMS
Sensor ID Learning screen, select the Enter button.
24. Drive the vehicle for 2 minutes above 30 mph, or until the low tire pressure indicator goes off.
Once the indicator goes off, stop the vehicle.
25. In the Mode Menu, select the Data List, and then select the Enter button. Check the tire
pressure at all four tires to confirm that the TPMS control unit is reading the correct tire pressures.
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26. Return to the Mode Menu, select DTCs, then select the Enter button.
Disclaimer
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Tire Pressure Sensor: Testing and Inspection Memorizing the Tire Pressure Sensor ID
TPMS sensor initializer tool AKS0620006 Available through the American Honda Tool and
Equipment Program; call 1-888-424-6857
All four tire pressure sensor IDs must be memorized to the TPMS control unit whenever you do any
of these actions:
NOTE: ^
To ensure the control unit memorizes the correct ID, the vehicle with the new sensor must be at
least 10 ft (3 m) away from other vehicles that have tire pressure sensors.
1. With the ignition switch at LOCK (0) wait 5 minutes or more for the TPMS sensors to go to sleep
mode. Connect the HDS to the data link
connector (DLC) (A) located under the driver's side of the dashboard.
2. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 3. Make sure the HDS communicates with the vehicle and the
TPMS control unit. If it doesn't, troubleshoot the DLC circuit. 4. Select Sensor ID Learning from the
mode menu on the HDS. 5. Follow HDS screen prompts to turn on the TPMS sensor initializer tool
(A). Verify the power switch (B) is in the "Low" position.
6. Hold the TPMS sensor initializer tool near one wheel, memorize the pressure sensor ID by
following the screen prompts on the HDS.
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7. Repeat step 6 for each wheel until all four sensor IDs are memorized. When all four IDs are
memorized, the low tire pressure indicator blinks. 8. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). 9.
Disconnect the HDS from the DLC.
10. Test-drive the vehicle at 28 mph (45 km/h) or more for at least 1 minute. 11. Make sure the low
tire pressure indicator does not blink. 12. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). 13. Reduce the
pressure in one tire until it is less than the appropriate specification. 14. Turn the ignition switch to
ON (II). 15. Test-drive the vehicle at 28 mph (45 km/h) or more for at least 1 minute. 16. Make sure
the low tire pressure indicator turns on, then inflate the tire. 17. Repeat step 12 to 16 for all the
other tires. 18. Clear any DTCs with the HDS.
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Tire Pressure Sensor: Testing and Inspection Tire Pressure Sensor Location
NOTE: This procedure locates where the tire pressure sensors number 1, 2, 3, 4 are mounted,
when activated by the TPMS sensor initializer tool.
^ Memorizing tire pressure sensor IDs (including replacing the TPMS control unit, or the tire
pressure sensors).
^ Wheel rotation.
1. With the ignition switch at LOCK (0), connect the HDS to the data link connector (DLC (A)
located under the driver's side of the dashboard.
2. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 3. Make sure the HDS communicates with the vehicle and the
TPMS control unit. If it doesn't, troubleshoot the DLC circuit. 4. Select Function Test from the mode
menu, then select Sensor Position Check on the HDS. 5. Follow HDS screen prompts to turn on
the TPMS sensor initializer tool (A). Verify the power switch (B) is in the "Low" position.
6. Follow the prompts on the HDS to activate the tire pressure sensors using the TPMS sensor
initializer tool. Start with the left-front (LF) wheel.
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7. Check the HDS screen, and note the active sensor reception order of the tire pressure sensor 1,
2, 3, 4.
NOTE: If the sensor does not respond to the TPMS initializer, rotate the tire 1/4 turn and retry. If
the sensor still does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, swap the tire to a known-good
location and retry. If the sensor still does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, replace the
tire pressure sensor.
8. Note the sensor location for reference. 9. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0).
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Tire Pressure Sensor: Service and Repair
Removal
1. Raise the vehicle, and support it with safety stands in the proper locations. 2. Remove the wheel
with the faulty sensor. 3. Remove the tire valve stem cap and the valve stem core, and let the tire
deflate. 4. Remove any balance weights, and then break the bead loose from the wheel with a
commercially available tire changer (A).
5. Position the wheel so the tire machine (A) and tire iron (B) are next to the valve stem (C) and will
move away from it when the machine starts.
6. Remove the valve stem nut (A) and washer (B), then remove the tire pressure sensor with valve
stem (C) from the wheel.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Tire Monitoring System > Tire Pressure
Sensor > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Page 8586
7. Remove and discard the valve stem grommet (A) from the tire pressure sensor (B).
NOTE: ^
The valve stem grommet might stay in the wheel; make sure you remove it.
^ Always use a new valve stem grommet whenever the tire pressure sensor has been removed
from the wheel. When only removing a tire from the wheel, replace the valve stem grommet if it is
possible.
Installation
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Tire Monitoring System > Tire Pressure
Sensor > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Page 8587
1. Before installing the tire pressure sensor, clean the mating surfaces on the sensor and the
wheel. 2. Install the tire pressure sensor (A) and the washer (B) to the wheel (C), and tighten the
valve stem nut (D) finger tight. Make sure the pressure
3. Tighten the valve stem nut to the specified torque while holding the tire pressure sensor.
NOTE: ^
Do not use air or electric impact tools to tighten a valve stem nut.
^ Do not twist the tire pressure sensor to adjust its position with the wheel, as this will damage or
deform the valve stem grommet.
4. Lube the tire bead sparingly, and position the wheel so the tire machine (A) and tire iron (B) are
next to the valve stem (C) and will move away
from it when the machine starts. Then install the tire onto the wheel.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Tire Monitoring System > Tire Pressure
Sensor > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Page 8588
5. With a dry air source, inflate the tire to 300 kPa (3.1 kgf/cm2, 44 psi) to seat the tire bead to the
rim, then adjust the tire pressure, then install the
NOTE: Make sure the tire bead is seated on both sides of the rim uniformly.
6. Check and adjust the wheel balance, then install the wheels on the vehicle. 7. Remove the jack
stands, and lower the vehicle. Torque the wheel nuts to specifications. 8. Connect the HDS, and
memorize the pressure sensor IDs using the TPMS sensor initializer tool.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Backup Lamp > Backup Lamp Switch > Component Information >
Locations
Exterior Lights Component Location Index
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Backup Lamp > Backup Lamp Switch > Component Information >
Locations > Page 8594
2. Check for continuity between the back-up light switch 2P connector terminals No. 1 and No. 2.
There should be continuity when the change lever
is only in reverse.
3. If necessary, replace the back-up light switch. Install the new washer and back-up light switch on
the transmission housing.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Brake Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions
Brake Lamp: Diagram Information and Instructions
Circuit Schematics
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Brake Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 8600
Circuit Schematics
Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show
current flow, from power at the top of the diagram, to ground at the bottom.
Shared Circuits
Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that
connects one circuit to another, for example, is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it
pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or
component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring, check the operation of a
component it serves. If that component works, you know the shared wiring is OK.
Connectors
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Brake Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 8601
All in-line and junction connectors are numbered (C725, C416, etc.). Component connectors are
not numbered but are identified either by the name of the component if the component only has
one connector, or by a capital letter (A, B, C, etc.) if the component has more than one connector.
Below most connector numbers and component names are PHOTO and VIEW numbers. The
PHOTO number refers to a photo at Vehicle Level Locations that shows the connector's location on
the car. The VIEW number refers to an connector view at the Vehicle Level Connector Views that
shows the connector terminals, wire colors, connector cavity numbers, and other details.
The connector cavity numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector as seen
from either of the viewpoints. Except for the DLC (data link connector), disregard any numbers
molded into the connector housing.
Wires
Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the
stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number "2" next to the male
and female wire terminals at C554, for example, means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector
C554.
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the vehicle. Refer to the Power Distribution Diagram Set to get a more detailed
understanding of how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on. Individual circuit
schematics begin with a fuse. So if Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another
circuit share a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good
and power is available to the inoperative circuit.
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share the same
ground point.
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Information and Instructions > Page 8603
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Information and Instructions > Page 8604
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Information and Instructions > Page 8605
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Information and Instructions > Page 8606
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Information and Instructions > Page 8607
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Brake Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 8608
How to Identify Connector Terminals
Connector terminals are numbered according to the cavities they are in. The cavities are numbered
starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side or looking at the
female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the
same. All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not
the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the
connector face.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Brake Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 8609
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown above is #6.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Brake Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 8610
The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice
connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for
all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement
terminal availability.
On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged,
replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If
any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it.
Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the
wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the
terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to
make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a
factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS.
Use the tools from Pin Tool Set. First, check the connector that you are about to repair.
- If it has a secondary terminal lock, go to Connectors With a Secondary Lock. A secondary lock,
found on most connectors on some models, is an additional locking device on the connector
housing as a backup for the primary lock on the terminal.
- If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock.
All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the
secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the
connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities.
EXAMPLE A:
EXAMPLE B:
EXAMPLE C:
EXAMPLE D:
2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW
TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE E:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Brake Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 8614
1. Remove the secondary locks.
2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW
TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE F:
3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of
connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary
in size and shape.
EXAMPLE A:
EXAMPLE B:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Brake Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 8616
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE C:
EXAMPLE D:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Brake Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 8617
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE E:
EXAMPLE F:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Brake Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 8618
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE G:
1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct
replacement terminal based on the wire size range
NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part
number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available
through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures.
2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Brake Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 8619
3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the
wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from
the kit.)
NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did,
cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again.
4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the
anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown
in step 3.
6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact.
- If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool
over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the
stops make contact.
- If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully
squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Brake Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 8620
8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the following NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and
start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the
way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure
10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector.
Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too
short or when access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair.
On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged,
replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If
any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it.
1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from
Pin Tool Set.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Brake Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 8621
2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal,
then strip about half of the insulation off that piece.
This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal.
NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will
not nick or cut off any strands of wires.
3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and
same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit
onto the stripped end of the original wire.
5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the
pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more
than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at
the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the
harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make
each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail.
7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends
of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue
NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the
stripper.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Brake Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 8622
8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the
flare begins), and close the crimper handles far
enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click,
squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open.
9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the
wire all the way into the splice connector, and
squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until
the ratchet clicks again.
10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After
crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the
connector.
12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire(s), and shield them with
nonflammable material.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Brake Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 8623
13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the
gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat
evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete
when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube.
NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun.
Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the
wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size)
splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select
the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in
quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures.
Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the
Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching
connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body.
1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Brake Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 8624
2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool.
NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal
because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit.
3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal
with a replacement terminal from the appropriate
Five-Step Troubleshooting
Five-Step Troubleshooting
Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint.
Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
problem area.
Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by
tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground (certain
circuits contain a "How the Circuit Works" Diagram set). Also, trace circuits that share wiring with
the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on,
are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step
1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used
only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely
cause.
Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more
possible causes.
Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple
procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to
make tests at points that are easily accessible.
Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe
procedures.
Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire
problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure
no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur.
Test Equipment
Test Equipment
CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
1O-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up
of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to
various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is
voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital
volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is
between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM).
In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low
resistance means good continuity.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Brake Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 8625
Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a
reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is
affecting the measurement.
To order any test equipment shown, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool
numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin.
Jumper Wire
Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder
connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire
across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse.
To order any test equipment shown, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool
numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin.
Troubleshooting Precautions
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION: -
Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
- Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles.
2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part
Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place.
CAUTION: -
Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Brake Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 8626
- Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-mega
ohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that
contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
Troubleshooting Tests
Troubleshooting Tests
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt
ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest
"OHMS" range.
2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you
want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Brake Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 8627
4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or
no reading (zero), means good continuity.
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem. Circuits must be operating when checking
voltage drop.
1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts
range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage
is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM
voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Brake Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 8628
Diagram 110-7
Diagrams: Other diagrams referred to by number (See Diagram ##-#, etc.) within these diagrams
can be found at Diagrams by Number. See: Diagrams/Electrical Diagrams/Diagrams By Number
Locations: Location photographs (references to PHOTOS) referred to within these diagrams can be
found at Locations by Photo Number. See: Locations/Component Locations/Locations By Photo
Number
Connector Views: Connector terminal views (references to VIEWS) referred to within these
diagrams can be found at Connector Views by View
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Brake Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 8630
Number. See: Diagrams/Connector Views/Connector Views By View Number
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Brake Light Switch > Component Information > Description and
Operation
Brake Light Switch: Description and Operation
The brake pedal position switch signals the PCM when the brake pedal is pressed.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Center Mounted Brake Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions
Center Mounted Brake Lamp: Diagram Information and Instructions
Circuit Schematics
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Center Mounted Brake Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8638
Circuit Schematics
Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show
current flow, from power at the top of the diagram, to ground at the bottom.
Shared Circuits
Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that
connects one circuit to another, for example, is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it
pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or
component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring, check the operation of a
component it serves. If that component works, you know the shared wiring is OK.
Connectors
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Center Mounted Brake Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8639
All in-line and junction connectors are numbered (C725, C416, etc.). Component connectors are
not numbered but are identified either by the name of the component if the component only has
one connector, or by a capital letter (A, B, C, etc.) if the component has more than one connector.
Below most connector numbers and component names are PHOTO and VIEW numbers. The
PHOTO number refers to a photo at Vehicle Level Locations that shows the connector's location on
the car. The VIEW number refers to an connector view at the Vehicle Level Connector Views that
shows the connector terminals, wire colors, connector cavity numbers, and other details.
The connector cavity numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector as seen
from either of the viewpoints. Except for the DLC (data link connector), disregard any numbers
molded into the connector housing.
Wires
Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the
stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number "2" next to the male
and female wire terminals at C554, for example, means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector
C554.
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the vehicle. Refer to the Power Distribution Diagram Set to get a more detailed
understanding of how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on. Individual circuit
schematics begin with a fuse. So if Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another
circuit share a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good
and power is available to the inoperative circuit.
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share the same
ground point.
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Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8643
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Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8644
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Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8645
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Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8646
How to Identify Connector Terminals
Connector terminals are numbered according to the cavities they are in. The cavities are numbered
starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side or looking at the
female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the
same. All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not
the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the
connector face.
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Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8647
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown above is #6.
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Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8648
The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice
connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for
all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement
terminal availability.
On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged,
replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If
any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it.
Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the
wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the
terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to
make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a
factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS.
Use the tools from Pin Tool Set. First, check the connector that you are about to repair.
- If it has a secondary terminal lock, go to Connectors With a Secondary Lock. A secondary lock,
found on most connectors on some models, is an additional locking device on the connector
housing as a backup for the primary lock on the terminal.
- If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock.
All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the
secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the
connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities.
EXAMPLE A:
EXAMPLE B:
EXAMPLE C:
EXAMPLE D:
2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW
TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE E:
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Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8652
1. Remove the secondary locks.
2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW
TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE F:
3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of
connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary
in size and shape.
EXAMPLE A:
EXAMPLE B:
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Center Mounted Brake Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8654
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE C:
EXAMPLE D:
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Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8655
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE E:
EXAMPLE F:
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Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8656
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE G:
1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct
replacement terminal based on the wire size range
NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part
number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available
through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures.
2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool.
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Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8657
3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the
wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from
the kit.)
NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did,
cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again.
4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the
anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown
in step 3.
6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact.
- If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool
over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the
stops make contact.
- If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully
squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape.
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Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8658
8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the following NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and
start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the
way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure
10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector.
Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too
short or when access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair.
On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged,
replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If
any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it.
1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from
Pin Tool Set.
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Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8659
2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal,
then strip about half of the insulation off that piece.
This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal.
NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will
not nick or cut off any strands of wires.
3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and
same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit
onto the stripped end of the original wire.
5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the
pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more
than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at
the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the
harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make
each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail.
7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends
of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue
NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the
stripper.
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Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8660
8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the
flare begins), and close the crimper handles far
enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click,
squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open.
9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the
wire all the way into the splice connector, and
squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until
the ratchet clicks again.
10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After
crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the
connector.
12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire(s), and shield them with
nonflammable material.
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Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8661
13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the
gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat
evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete
when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube.
NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun.
Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the
wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size)
splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select
the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in
quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures.
Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the
Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching
connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body.
1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector.
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Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8662
2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool.
NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal
because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit.
3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal
with a replacement terminal from the appropriate
Five-Step Troubleshooting
Five-Step Troubleshooting
Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint.
Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
problem area.
Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by
tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground (certain
circuits contain a "How the Circuit Works" Diagram set). Also, trace circuits that share wiring with
the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on,
are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step
1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used
only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely
cause.
Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more
possible causes.
Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple
procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to
make tests at points that are easily accessible.
Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe
procedures.
Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire
problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure
no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur.
Test Equipment
Test Equipment
CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
1O-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up
of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to
various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is
voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital
volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is
between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM).
In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low
resistance means good continuity.
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Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a
reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is
affecting the measurement.
To order any test equipment shown, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool
numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin.
Jumper Wire
Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder
connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire
across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse.
To order any test equipment shown, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool
numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin.
Troubleshooting Precautions
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION: -
Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
- Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles.
2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part
Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place.
CAUTION: -
Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
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- Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-mega
ohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that
contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
Troubleshooting Tests
Troubleshooting Tests
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt
ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest
"OHMS" range.
2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you
want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end.
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4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or
no reading (zero), means good continuity.
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem. Circuits must be operating when checking
voltage drop.
1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts
range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage
is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM
voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
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Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8666
7. High Mount Brake Light (Honda Accessory: DX, DX-G, LX, GX, EX)
55. High Mount Brake Light (DX, DX-G, LX, GX, EX; 4-door: Si)
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Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8667
Center Mounted Brake Lamp: Electrical Diagrams
Diagram 110-16
Diagrams: Other diagrams referred to by number (See Diagram ##-#, etc.) within these diagrams
can be found at Diagrams by Number. See: Diagrams/Electrical Diagrams/Diagrams By Number
Locations: Location photographs (references to PHOTOS) referred to within these diagrams can be
found at Locations by Photo Number. See: Locations/Component Locations/Locations By Photo
Number
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Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8668
Connector Views: Connector terminal views (references to VIEWS) referred to within these
diagrams can be found at Connector Views by View Number. See: Diagrams/Connector
Views/Connector Views By View Number
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Page 8669
Center Mounted Brake Lamp: Service and Repair
Except Si models
1. Open the trunk lid. 2. Disconnect the 2P connector (A) from the high mount brake light.
3. Turn the bulb socket (B) 45° counterclockwise to remove the bulb (C). 4. Remove the rear shelf.
5. Remove the high mount brake light (A).
Circuit Schematics
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Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8675
Circuit Schematics
Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show
current flow, from power at the top of the diagram, to ground at the bottom.
Shared Circuits
Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that
connects one circuit to another, for example, is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it
pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or
component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring, check the operation of a
component it serves. If that component works, you know the shared wiring is OK.
Connectors
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Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8676
All in-line and junction connectors are numbered (C725, C416, etc.). Component connectors are
not numbered but are identified either by the name of the component if the component only has
one connector, or by a capital letter (A, B, C, etc.) if the component has more than one connector.
Below most connector numbers and component names are PHOTO and VIEW numbers. The
PHOTO number refers to a photo at Vehicle Level Locations that shows the connector's location on
the car. The VIEW number refers to an connector view at the Vehicle Level Connector Views that
shows the connector terminals, wire colors, connector cavity numbers, and other details.
The connector cavity numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector as seen
from either of the viewpoints. Except for the DLC (data link connector), disregard any numbers
molded into the connector housing.
Wires
Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the
stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number "2" next to the male
and female wire terminals at C554, for example, means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector
C554.
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the vehicle. Refer to the Power Distribution Diagram Set to get a more detailed
understanding of how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on. Individual circuit
schematics begin with a fuse. So if Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another
circuit share a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good
and power is available to the inoperative circuit.
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share the same
ground point.
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Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8680
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How to Identify Connector Terminals
Connector terminals are numbered according to the cavities they are in. The cavities are numbered
starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side or looking at the
female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the
same. All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not
the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the
connector face.
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The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown above is #6.
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Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8685
The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice
connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for
all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement
terminal availability.
On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged,
replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If
any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it.
Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the
wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the
terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to
make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a
factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS.
Use the tools from Pin Tool Set. First, check the connector that you are about to repair.
- If it has a secondary terminal lock, go to Connectors With a Secondary Lock. A secondary lock,
found on most connectors on some models, is an additional locking device on the connector
housing as a backup for the primary lock on the terminal.
- If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock.
All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the
secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the
connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities.
EXAMPLE A:
EXAMPLE B:
EXAMPLE C:
EXAMPLE D:
2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW
TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE E:
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Courtesy Lamp > Console Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8689
1. Remove the secondary locks.
2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW
TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE F:
3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of
connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary
in size and shape.
EXAMPLE A:
EXAMPLE B:
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Courtesy Lamp > Console Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8691
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE C:
EXAMPLE D:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Courtesy Lamp > Console Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8692
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE E:
EXAMPLE F:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Courtesy Lamp > Console Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8693
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE G:
1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct
replacement terminal based on the wire size range
NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part
number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available
through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures.
2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Courtesy Lamp > Console Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8694
3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the
wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from
the kit.)
NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did,
cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again.
4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the
anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown
in step 3.
6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact.
- If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool
over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the
stops make contact.
- If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully
squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape.
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Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8695
8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the following NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and
start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the
way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure
10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector.
Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too
short or when access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair.
On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged,
replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If
any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it.
1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from
Pin Tool Set.
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Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8696
2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal,
then strip about half of the insulation off that piece.
This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal.
NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will
not nick or cut off any strands of wires.
3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and
same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit
onto the stripped end of the original wire.
5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the
pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more
than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at
the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the
harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make
each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail.
7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends
of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue
NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the
stripper.
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Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8697
8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the
flare begins), and close the crimper handles far
enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click,
squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open.
9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the
wire all the way into the splice connector, and
squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until
the ratchet clicks again.
10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After
crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the
connector.
12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire(s), and shield them with
nonflammable material.
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Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8698
13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the
gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat
evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete
when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube.
NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun.
Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the
wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size)
splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select
the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in
quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures.
Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the
Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching
connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body.
1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector.
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Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8699
2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool.
NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal
because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit.
3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal
with a replacement terminal from the appropriate
Five-Step Troubleshooting
Five-Step Troubleshooting
Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint.
Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
problem area.
Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by
tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground (certain
circuits contain a "How the Circuit Works" Diagram set). Also, trace circuits that share wiring with
the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on,
are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step
1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used
only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely
cause.
Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more
possible causes.
Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple
procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to
make tests at points that are easily accessible.
Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe
procedures.
Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire
problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure
no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur.
Test Equipment
Test Equipment
CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
1O-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up
of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to
various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is
voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital
volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is
between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM).
In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low
resistance means good continuity.
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Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8700
Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a
reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is
affecting the measurement.
To order any test equipment shown, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool
numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin.
Jumper Wire
Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder
connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire
across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse.
To order any test equipment shown, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool
numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin.
Troubleshooting Precautions
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION: -
Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
- Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles.
2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part
Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place.
CAUTION: -
Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
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Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8701
- Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-mega
ohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that
contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
Troubleshooting Tests
Troubleshooting Tests
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt
ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest
"OHMS" range.
2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you
want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end.
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4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or
no reading (zero), means good continuity.
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem. Circuits must be operating when checking
voltage drop.
1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts
range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage
is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM
voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
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Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8703
Console Lamp: Electrical Diagrams
Diagram 114-0
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Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8704
Diagram 114-1
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Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8705
Diagram 114-2
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Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8706
Diagram 114-3
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Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8707
Diagram 114-4
Diagrams: Other diagrams referred to by number (See Diagram ##-#, etc.) within these diagrams
can be found at Diagrams by Number. See: Diagrams/Electrical Diagrams/Diagrams By Number
Locations: Location photographs (references to PHOTOS) referred to within these diagrams can be
found at Locations by Photo Number. See: Locations/Component Locations/Locations By Photo
Number
Connector Views: Connector terminal views (references to VIEWS) referred to within these
diagrams can be found at Connector Views by View Number. See: Diagrams/Connector
Views/Connector Views By View Number
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Courtesy Lamp > Interior Light Switch > Component Information >
Locations
With moonroof
NOTE: The interior light switch is built into the moonroof switch, and it switches the front individual
map lights between the OFF and DOOR positions.
1. Remove the front individual map lights. 2. Disconnect the moonroof switch 10P [12P] connector
(A) and map light 3P connector (B).
[ ] :'08 model
3. Remove the moonroof switch (C). 4. At the moonroof switch 10P [12P] connector, check for
continuity between the No. 1 [No. 7] and No. 8 [No. 9] terminals.
[ ] :'08 model
- There should be continuity when the interior light switch is in the DOOR position.
- There should be no continuity when the interior light switch is in the OFF position.
5. If the continuity check is not as specified, replace the switch. 6. Install the switch and light in the
reverse order of removal.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Daytime Running Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions
Daytime Running Lamp: Diagram Information and Instructions
Circuit Schematics
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
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Information and Instructions > Page 8716
Circuit Schematics
Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show
current flow, from power at the top of the diagram, to ground at the bottom.
Shared Circuits
Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that
connects one circuit to another, for example, is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it
pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or
component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring, check the operation of a
component it serves. If that component works, you know the shared wiring is OK.
Connectors
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Information and Instructions > Page 8717
All in-line and junction connectors are numbered (C725, C416, etc.). Component connectors are
not numbered but are identified either by the name of the component if the component only has
one connector, or by a capital letter (A, B, C, etc.) if the component has more than one connector.
Below most connector numbers and component names are PHOTO and VIEW numbers. The
PHOTO number refers to a photo at Vehicle Level Locations that shows the connector's location on
the car. The VIEW number refers to an connector view at the Vehicle Level Connector Views that
shows the connector terminals, wire colors, connector cavity numbers, and other details.
The connector cavity numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector as seen
from either of the viewpoints. Except for the DLC (data link connector), disregard any numbers
molded into the connector housing.
Wires
Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the
stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number "2" next to the male
and female wire terminals at C554, for example, means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector
C554.
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the vehicle. Refer to the Power Distribution Diagram Set to get a more detailed
understanding of how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on. Individual circuit
schematics begin with a fuse. So if Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another
circuit share a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good
and power is available to the inoperative circuit.
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share the same
ground point.
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Information and Instructions > Page 8719
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Information and Instructions > Page 8720
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Information and Instructions > Page 8721
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Information and Instructions > Page 8722
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Information and Instructions > Page 8723
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Information and Instructions > Page 8724
How to Identify Connector Terminals
Connector terminals are numbered according to the cavities they are in. The cavities are numbered
starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side or looking at the
female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the
same. All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not
the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the
connector face.
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Information and Instructions > Page 8725
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown above is #6.
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Information and Instructions > Page 8726
The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice
connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for
all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement
terminal availability.
On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged,
replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If
any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it.
Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the
wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the
terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to
make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a
factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS.
Use the tools from Pin Tool Set. First, check the connector that you are about to repair.
- If it has a secondary terminal lock, go to Connectors With a Secondary Lock. A secondary lock,
found on most connectors on some models, is an additional locking device on the connector
housing as a backup for the primary lock on the terminal.
- If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock.
All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the
secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the
connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities.
EXAMPLE A:
EXAMPLE B:
EXAMPLE C:
EXAMPLE D:
2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW
TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE E:
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Information and Instructions > Page 8730
1. Remove the secondary locks.
2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW
TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE F:
3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of
connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary
in size and shape.
EXAMPLE A:
EXAMPLE B:
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Daytime Running Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 8732
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE C:
EXAMPLE D:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Daytime Running Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 8733
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE E:
EXAMPLE F:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Daytime Running Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 8734
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE G:
1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct
replacement terminal based on the wire size range
NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part
number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available
through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures.
2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool.
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Information and Instructions > Page 8735
3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the
wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from
the kit.)
NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did,
cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again.
4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the
anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown
in step 3.
6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact.
- If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool
over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the
stops make contact.
- If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully
squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape.
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Information and Instructions > Page 8736
8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the following NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and
start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the
way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure
10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector.
Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too
short or when access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair.
On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged,
replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If
any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it.
1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from
Pin Tool Set.
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Information and Instructions > Page 8737
2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal,
then strip about half of the insulation off that piece.
This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal.
NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will
not nick or cut off any strands of wires.
3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and
same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit
onto the stripped end of the original wire.
5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the
pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more
than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at
the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the
harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make
each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail.
7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends
of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue
NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the
stripper.
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Information and Instructions > Page 8738
8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the
flare begins), and close the crimper handles far
enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click,
squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open.
9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the
wire all the way into the splice connector, and
squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until
the ratchet clicks again.
10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After
crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the
connector.
12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire(s), and shield them with
nonflammable material.
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13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the
gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat
evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete
when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube.
NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun.
Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the
wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size)
splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select
the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in
quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures.
Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the
Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching
connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body.
1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector.
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2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool.
NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal
because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit.
3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal
with a replacement terminal from the appropriate
Five-Step Troubleshooting
Five-Step Troubleshooting
Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint.
Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
problem area.
Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by
tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground (certain
circuits contain a "How the Circuit Works" Diagram set). Also, trace circuits that share wiring with
the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on,
are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step
1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used
only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely
cause.
Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more
possible causes.
Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple
procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to
make tests at points that are easily accessible.
Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe
procedures.
Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire
problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure
no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur.
Test Equipment
Test Equipment
CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
1O-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up
of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to
various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is
voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital
volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is
between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM).
In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low
resistance means good continuity.
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Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a
reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is
affecting the measurement.
To order any test equipment shown, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool
numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin.
Jumper Wire
Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder
connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire
across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse.
To order any test equipment shown, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool
numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin.
Troubleshooting Precautions
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION: -
Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
- Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles.
2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part
Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place.
CAUTION: -
Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
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- Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-mega
ohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that
contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
Troubleshooting Tests
Troubleshooting Tests
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt
ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest
"OHMS" range.
2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you
want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end.
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4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or
no reading (zero), means good continuity.
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem. Circuits must be operating when checking
voltage drop.
1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts
range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage
is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM
voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Dimmer Switch > Component Information > Locations
1. Remove the subdisplay visor and disconnect the connectors. 2. Remove the two screws and the
dash lights brightness controller-odometer select/reset switch (A).
3. Check for continuity between the terminals in each switch position according the table.
4. If the continuity is not as specified, replace the bulbs (B) or the dash lights brightness
controller-odometer select/reset switch.
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1. Remove the subdisplay visor and disconnect the connectors. 2. Remove the two screws and the
dash lights brightness controller-odometer select/reset switch (A).
3. Check for continuity between the terminals in each switch position according the table.
4. If the continuity is not as specified, replace the bulbs (B) or the dash lights brightness
controller-odometer select/reset switch.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Dome Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions
Dome Lamp: Diagram Information and Instructions
Circuit Schematics
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Circuit Schematics
Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show
current flow, from power at the top of the diagram, to ground at the bottom.
Shared Circuits
Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that
connects one circuit to another, for example, is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it
pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or
component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring, check the operation of a
component it serves. If that component works, you know the shared wiring is OK.
Connectors
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All in-line and junction connectors are numbered (C725, C416, etc.). Component connectors are
not numbered but are identified either by the name of the component if the component only has
one connector, or by a capital letter (A, B, C, etc.) if the component has more than one connector.
Below most connector numbers and component names are PHOTO and VIEW numbers. The
PHOTO number refers to a photo at Vehicle Level Locations that shows the connector's location on
the car. The VIEW number refers to an connector view at the Vehicle Level Connector Views that
shows the connector terminals, wire colors, connector cavity numbers, and other details.
The connector cavity numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector as seen
from either of the viewpoints. Except for the DLC (data link connector), disregard any numbers
molded into the connector housing.
Wires
Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the
stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number "2" next to the male
and female wire terminals at C554, for example, means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector
C554.
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the vehicle. Refer to the Power Distribution Diagram Set to get a more detailed
understanding of how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on. Individual circuit
schematics begin with a fuse. So if Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another
circuit share a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good
and power is available to the inoperative circuit.
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share the same
ground point.
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How to Identify Connector Terminals
Connector terminals are numbered according to the cavities they are in. The cavities are numbered
starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side or looking at the
female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the
same. All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not
the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the
connector face.
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Information and Instructions > Page 8763
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown above is #6.
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Information and Instructions > Page 8764
The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice
connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for
all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement
terminal availability.
On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged,
replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If
any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it.
Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the
wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the
terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to
make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a
factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS.
Use the tools from Pin Tool Set. First, check the connector that you are about to repair.
- If it has a secondary terminal lock, go to Connectors With a Secondary Lock. A secondary lock,
found on most connectors on some models, is an additional locking device on the connector
housing as a backup for the primary lock on the terminal.
- If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock.
All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the
secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the
connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities.
EXAMPLE A:
EXAMPLE B:
EXAMPLE C:
EXAMPLE D:
2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW
TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE E:
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Information and Instructions > Page 8768
1. Remove the secondary locks.
2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW
TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE F:
3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of
connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary
in size and shape.
EXAMPLE A:
EXAMPLE B:
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Information and Instructions > Page 8770
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE C:
EXAMPLE D:
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Information and Instructions > Page 8771
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE E:
EXAMPLE F:
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Information and Instructions > Page 8772
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE G:
1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct
replacement terminal based on the wire size range
NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part
number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available
through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures.
2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool.
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Information and Instructions > Page 8773
3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the
wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from
the kit.)
NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did,
cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again.
4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the
anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown
in step 3.
6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact.
- If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool
over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the
stops make contact.
- If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully
squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape.
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Information and Instructions > Page 8774
8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the following NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and
start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the
way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure
10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector.
Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too
short or when access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair.
On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged,
replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If
any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it.
1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from
Pin Tool Set.
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Information and Instructions > Page 8775
2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal,
then strip about half of the insulation off that piece.
This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal.
NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will
not nick or cut off any strands of wires.
3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and
same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit
onto the stripped end of the original wire.
5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the
pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more
than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at
the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the
harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make
each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail.
7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends
of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue
NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the
stripper.
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Information and Instructions > Page 8776
8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the
flare begins), and close the crimper handles far
enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click,
squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open.
9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the
wire all the way into the splice connector, and
squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until
the ratchet clicks again.
10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After
crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the
connector.
12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire(s), and shield them with
nonflammable material.
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13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the
gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat
evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete
when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube.
NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun.
Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the
wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size)
splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select
the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in
quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures.
Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the
Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching
connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body.
1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector.
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Information and Instructions > Page 8778
2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool.
NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal
because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit.
3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal
with a replacement terminal from the appropriate
Five-Step Troubleshooting
Five-Step Troubleshooting
Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint.
Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
problem area.
Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by
tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground (certain
circuits contain a "How the Circuit Works" Diagram set). Also, trace circuits that share wiring with
the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on,
are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step
1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used
only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely
cause.
Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more
possible causes.
Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple
procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to
make tests at points that are easily accessible.
Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe
procedures.
Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire
problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure
no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur.
Test Equipment
Test Equipment
CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
1O-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up
of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to
various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is
voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital
volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is
between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM).
In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low
resistance means good continuity.
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Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a
reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is
affecting the measurement.
To order any test equipment shown, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool
numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin.
Jumper Wire
Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder
connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire
across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse.
To order any test equipment shown, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool
numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin.
Troubleshooting Precautions
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION: -
Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
- Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles.
2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part
Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place.
CAUTION: -
Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
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- Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-mega
ohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that
contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
Troubleshooting Tests
Troubleshooting Tests
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt
ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest
"OHMS" range.
2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you
want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end.
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4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or
no reading (zero), means good continuity.
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem. Circuits must be operating when checking
voltage drop.
1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts
range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage
is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM
voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
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Diagram 114-5
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Information and Instructions > Page 8784
Diagram 114-8
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Diagram 114-9
Diagrams: Other diagrams referred to by number (See Diagram ##-#, etc.) within these diagrams
can be found at Diagrams by Number. See: Diagrams/Electrical Diagrams/Diagrams By Number
Locations: Location photographs (references to PHOTOS) referred to within these diagrams can be
found at Locations by Photo Number. See: Locations/Component Locations/Locations By Photo
Number
Connector Views: Connector terminal views (references to VIEWS) referred to within these
diagrams can be found at Connector Views by View Number. See: Diagrams/Connector
Views/Connector Views By View Number
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1. Turn the ceiling light switch OFF. 2. Carefully pry the lens (A) off with a small screwdriver.
3. Remove the screws, then remove the ceiling light (B). 4. Disconnect the 3P connector (C) from
the ceiling light. 5. Check for continuity between the terminals.
- There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals with the switch in the MIDDLE
position.
- There should be continuity between the No. 2 and No. 3 (Body ground) terminals with the switch
in the ON position.
- There should be no continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals, and between the No. 2 and
body ground with the switch in the OFF position.
6. If the continuity is not as specified, check the bulb. If the bulb is OK, replace the light. 7. Install in
the reverse order of removal.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Door Switch > Component Information > Locations
Door Switch: Locations
- With Audio.
- With Navigation.
3. Check for continuity between the terminals in each switch position according to the table.
4. If the continuity is not as specified, replace the bulb (A) or the hazard warning switch.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Headlamp > Headlamp Bulb > Component Information > Service and
Repair
Bulb Replacement
Headlight
1. For low beam: Remove the inner fender. 2. Disconnect the 2P connector (A) from the headlight.
3. Turn the bulb socket 45° counterclockwise to remove the bulb. 4. Install a new bulb in the
reverse order of removal.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Horn > Horn Switch > Component Information > Locations
Circuit Schematics
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Information and Instructions > Page 8820
Circuit Schematics
Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show
current flow, from power at the top of the diagram, to ground at the bottom.
Shared Circuits
Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that
connects one circuit to another, for example, is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it
pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or
component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring, check the operation of a
component it serves. If that component works, you know the shared wiring is OK.
Connectors
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Information and Instructions > Page 8821
All in-line and junction connectors are numbered (C725, C416, etc.). Component connectors are
not numbered but are identified either by the name of the component if the component only has
one connector, or by a capital letter (A, B, C, etc.) if the component has more than one connector.
Below most connector numbers and component names are PHOTO and VIEW numbers. The
PHOTO number refers to a photo at Vehicle Level Locations that shows the connector's location on
the car. The VIEW number refers to an connector view at the Vehicle Level Connector Views that
shows the connector terminals, wire colors, connector cavity numbers, and other details.
The connector cavity numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector as seen
from either of the viewpoints. Except for the DLC (data link connector), disregard any numbers
molded into the connector housing.
Wires
Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the
stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number "2" next to the male
and female wire terminals at C554, for example, means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector
C554.
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the vehicle. Refer to the Power Distribution Diagram Set to get a more detailed
understanding of how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on. Individual circuit
schematics begin with a fuse. So if Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another
circuit share a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good
and power is available to the inoperative circuit.
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share the same
ground point.
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Information and Instructions > Page 8824
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Information and Instructions > Page 8825
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Information and Instructions > Page 8826
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Information and Instructions > Page 8827
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Information and Instructions > Page 8828
How to Identify Connector Terminals
Connector terminals are numbered according to the cavities they are in. The cavities are numbered
starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side or looking at the
female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the
same. All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not
the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the
connector face.
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Information and Instructions > Page 8829
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown above is #6.
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Information and Instructions > Page 8830
The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice
connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for
all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement
terminal availability.
On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged,
replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If
any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it.
Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the
wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the
terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to
make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a
factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS.
Use the tools from Pin Tool Set. First, check the connector that you are about to repair.
- If it has a secondary terminal lock, go to Connectors With a Secondary Lock. A secondary lock,
found on most connectors on some models, is an additional locking device on the connector
housing as a backup for the primary lock on the terminal.
- If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock.
All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the
secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the
connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities.
EXAMPLE A:
EXAMPLE B:
EXAMPLE C:
EXAMPLE D:
2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW
TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE E:
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1. Remove the secondary locks.
2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW
TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE F:
3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of
connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary
in size and shape.
EXAMPLE A:
EXAMPLE B:
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Information and Instructions > Page 8836
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE C:
EXAMPLE D:
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Interior Lighting Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 8837
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE E:
EXAMPLE F:
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Interior Lighting Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 8838
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE G:
1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct
replacement terminal based on the wire size range
NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part
number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available
through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures.
2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool.
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Information and Instructions > Page 8839
3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the
wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from
the kit.)
NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did,
cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again.
4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the
anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown
in step 3.
6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact.
- If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool
over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the
stops make contact.
- If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully
squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape.
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Information and Instructions > Page 8840
8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the following NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and
start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the
way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure
10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector.
Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too
short or when access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair.
On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged,
replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If
any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it.
1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from
Pin Tool Set.
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Information and Instructions > Page 8841
2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal,
then strip about half of the insulation off that piece.
This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal.
NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will
not nick or cut off any strands of wires.
3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and
same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit
onto the stripped end of the original wire.
5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the
pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more
than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at
the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the
harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make
each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail.
7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends
of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue
NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the
stripper.
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Information and Instructions > Page 8842
8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the
flare begins), and close the crimper handles far
enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click,
squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open.
9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the
wire all the way into the splice connector, and
squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until
the ratchet clicks again.
10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After
crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the
connector.
12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire(s), and shield them with
nonflammable material.
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Information and Instructions > Page 8843
13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the
gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat
evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete
when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube.
NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun.
Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the
wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size)
splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select
the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in
quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures.
Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the
Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching
connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body.
1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector.
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Information and Instructions > Page 8844
2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool.
NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal
because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit.
3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal
with a replacement terminal from the appropriate
Five-Step Troubleshooting
Five-Step Troubleshooting
Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint.
Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
problem area.
Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by
tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground (certain
circuits contain a "How the Circuit Works" Diagram set). Also, trace circuits that share wiring with
the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on,
are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step
1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used
only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely
cause.
Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more
possible causes.
Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple
procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to
make tests at points that are easily accessible.
Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe
procedures.
Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire
problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure
no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur.
Test Equipment
Test Equipment
CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
1O-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up
of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to
various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is
voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital
volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is
between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM).
In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low
resistance means good continuity.
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Information and Instructions > Page 8845
Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a
reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is
affecting the measurement.
To order any test equipment shown, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool
numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin.
Jumper Wire
Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder
connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire
across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse.
To order any test equipment shown, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool
numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin.
Troubleshooting Precautions
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION: -
Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
- Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles.
2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part
Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place.
CAUTION: -
Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
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Information and Instructions > Page 8846
- Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-mega
ohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that
contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
Troubleshooting Tests
Troubleshooting Tests
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt
ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest
"OHMS" range.
2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you
want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end.
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4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or
no reading (zero), means good continuity.
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem. Circuits must be operating when checking
voltage drop.
1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts
range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage
is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM
voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
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Information and Instructions > Page 8848
Interior Lighting Module: Electrical Diagrams
Diagram 115-0
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Information and Instructions > Page 8849
Diagram 115-1
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Diagram 115-2
Diagrams: Other diagrams referred to by number (See Diagram ##-#, etc.) within these diagrams
can be found at Diagrams by Number. See: Diagrams/Electrical Diagrams/Diagrams By Number
Locations: Location photographs (references to PHOTOS) referred to within these diagrams can be
found at Locations by Photo Number. See: Locations/Component Locations/Locations By Photo
Number
Connector Views: Connector terminal views (references to VIEWS) referred to within these
diagrams can be found at Connector Views by View Number. See: Diagrams/Connector
Views/Connector Views By View Number
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > License Plate Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions
License Plate Lamp: Diagram Information and Instructions
Circuit Schematics
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Information and Instructions > Page 8855
Circuit Schematics
Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show
current flow, from power at the top of the diagram, to ground at the bottom.
Shared Circuits
Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that
connects one circuit to another, for example, is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it
pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or
component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring, check the operation of a
component it serves. If that component works, you know the shared wiring is OK.
Connectors
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Information and Instructions > Page 8856
All in-line and junction connectors are numbered (C725, C416, etc.). Component connectors are
not numbered but are identified either by the name of the component if the component only has
one connector, or by a capital letter (A, B, C, etc.) if the component has more than one connector.
Below most connector numbers and component names are PHOTO and VIEW numbers. The
PHOTO number refers to a photo at Vehicle Level Locations that shows the connector's location on
the car. The VIEW number refers to an connector view at the Vehicle Level Connector Views that
shows the connector terminals, wire colors, connector cavity numbers, and other details.
The connector cavity numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector as seen
from either of the viewpoints. Except for the DLC (data link connector), disregard any numbers
molded into the connector housing.
Wires
Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the
stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number "2" next to the male
and female wire terminals at C554, for example, means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector
C554.
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the vehicle. Refer to the Power Distribution Diagram Set to get a more detailed
understanding of how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on. Individual circuit
schematics begin with a fuse. So if Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another
circuit share a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good
and power is available to the inoperative circuit.
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share the same
ground point.
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Information and Instructions > Page 8863
How to Identify Connector Terminals
Connector terminals are numbered according to the cavities they are in. The cavities are numbered
starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side or looking at the
female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the
same. All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not
the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the
connector face.
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Information and Instructions > Page 8864
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown above is #6.
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Information and Instructions > Page 8865
The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice
connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for
all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement
terminal availability.
On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged,
replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If
any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it.
Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the
wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the
terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to
make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a
factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS.
Use the tools from Pin Tool Set. First, check the connector that you are about to repair.
- If it has a secondary terminal lock, go to Connectors With a Secondary Lock. A secondary lock,
found on most connectors on some models, is an additional locking device on the connector
housing as a backup for the primary lock on the terminal.
- If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock.
All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the
secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the
connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities.
EXAMPLE A:
EXAMPLE B:
EXAMPLE C:
EXAMPLE D:
2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW
TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE E:
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Information and Instructions > Page 8869
1. Remove the secondary locks.
2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW
TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE F:
3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of
connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary
in size and shape.
EXAMPLE A:
EXAMPLE B:
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > License Plate Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 8871
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE C:
EXAMPLE D:
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > License Plate Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 8872
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE E:
EXAMPLE F:
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > License Plate Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 8873
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE G:
1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct
replacement terminal based on the wire size range
NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part
number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available
through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures.
2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool.
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Information and Instructions > Page 8874
3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the
wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from
the kit.)
NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did,
cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again.
4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the
anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown
in step 3.
6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact.
- If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool
over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the
stops make contact.
- If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully
squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape.
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Information and Instructions > Page 8875
8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the following NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and
start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the
way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure
10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector.
Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too
short or when access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair.
On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged,
replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If
any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it.
1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from
Pin Tool Set.
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Information and Instructions > Page 8876
2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal,
then strip about half of the insulation off that piece.
This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal.
NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will
not nick or cut off any strands of wires.
3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and
same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit
onto the stripped end of the original wire.
5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the
pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more
than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at
the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the
harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make
each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail.
7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends
of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue
NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the
stripper.
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Information and Instructions > Page 8877
8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the
flare begins), and close the crimper handles far
enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click,
squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open.
9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the
wire all the way into the splice connector, and
squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until
the ratchet clicks again.
10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After
crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the
connector.
12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire(s), and shield them with
nonflammable material.
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Information and Instructions > Page 8878
13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the
gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat
evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete
when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube.
NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun.
Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the
wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size)
splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select
the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in
quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures.
Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the
Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching
connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body.
1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector.
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Information and Instructions > Page 8879
2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool.
NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal
because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit.
3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal
with a replacement terminal from the appropriate
Five-Step Troubleshooting
Five-Step Troubleshooting
Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint.
Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
problem area.
Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by
tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground (certain
circuits contain a "How the Circuit Works" Diagram set). Also, trace circuits that share wiring with
the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on,
are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step
1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used
only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely
cause.
Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more
possible causes.
Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple
procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to
make tests at points that are easily accessible.
Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe
procedures.
Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire
problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure
no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur.
Test Equipment
Test Equipment
CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
1O-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up
of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to
various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is
voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital
volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is
between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM).
In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low
resistance means good continuity.
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Information and Instructions > Page 8880
Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a
reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is
affecting the measurement.
To order any test equipment shown, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool
numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin.
Jumper Wire
Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder
connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire
across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse.
To order any test equipment shown, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool
numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin.
Troubleshooting Precautions
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION: -
Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
- Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles.
2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part
Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place.
CAUTION: -
Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
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Information and Instructions > Page 8881
- Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-mega
ohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that
contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
Troubleshooting Tests
Troubleshooting Tests
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt
ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest
"OHMS" range.
2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you
want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end.
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Information and Instructions > Page 8882
4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or
no reading (zero), means good continuity.
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem. Circuits must be operating when checking
voltage drop.
1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts
range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage
is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM
voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
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Information and Instructions > Page 8883
Diagram 110-4
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Diagram 110-5
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Diagram 110-6
Diagrams: Other diagrams referred to by number (See Diagram ##-#, etc.) within these diagrams
can be found at Diagrams by Number. See: Diagrams/Electrical Diagrams/Diagrams By Number
Locations: Location photographs (references to PHOTOS) referred to within these diagrams can be
found at Locations by Photo Number. See: Locations/Component Locations/Locations By Photo
Number
Connector Views: Connector terminal views (references to VIEWS) referred to within these
diagrams can be found at Connector Views by View Number. See: Diagrams/Connector
Views/Connector Views By View Number
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1. Open the trunk lid, and remove the rear license trim. 2. Disconnect the 2P connector (A) from the
license plate light.
3. Release the bulb socket (B) from the lens (C) by pressing on the tabs. 4. Remove the lens from
the trunk lid by pressing on the tabs. 5. Install the light in the reverse order of removal.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Map Light > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information
and Instructions
Map Light: Diagram Information and Instructions
Circuit Schematics
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and Instructions > Page 8892
Circuit Schematics
Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show
current flow, from power at the top of the diagram, to ground at the bottom.
Shared Circuits
Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that
connects one circuit to another, for example, is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it
pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or
component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring, check the operation of a
component it serves. If that component works, you know the shared wiring is OK.
Connectors
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Map Light > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information
and Instructions > Page 8893
All in-line and junction connectors are numbered (C725, C416, etc.). Component connectors are
not numbered but are identified either by the name of the component if the component only has
one connector, or by a capital letter (A, B, C, etc.) if the component has more than one connector.
Below most connector numbers and component names are PHOTO and VIEW numbers. The
PHOTO number refers to a photo at Vehicle Level Locations that shows the connector's location on
the car. The VIEW number refers to an connector view at the Vehicle Level Connector Views that
shows the connector terminals, wire colors, connector cavity numbers, and other details.
The connector cavity numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector as seen
from either of the viewpoints. Except for the DLC (data link connector), disregard any numbers
molded into the connector housing.
Wires
Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the
stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number "2" next to the male
and female wire terminals at C554, for example, means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector
C554.
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the vehicle. Refer to the Power Distribution Diagram Set to get a more detailed
understanding of how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on. Individual circuit
schematics begin with a fuse. So if Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another
circuit share a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good
and power is available to the inoperative circuit.
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share the same
ground point.
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How to Identify Connector Terminals
Connector terminals are numbered according to the cavities they are in. The cavities are numbered
starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side or looking at the
female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the
same. All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not
the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the
connector face.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Map Light > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information
and Instructions > Page 8901
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown above is #6.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Map Light > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information
and Instructions > Page 8902
The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice
connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for
all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement
terminal availability.
On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged,
replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If
any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it.
Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the
wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the
terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to
make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a
factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS.
Use the tools from Pin Tool Set. First, check the connector that you are about to repair.
- If it has a secondary terminal lock, go to Connectors With a Secondary Lock. A secondary lock,
found on most connectors on some models, is an additional locking device on the connector
housing as a backup for the primary lock on the terminal.
- If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock.
All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the
secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the
connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities.
EXAMPLE A:
EXAMPLE B:
EXAMPLE C:
EXAMPLE D:
2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW
TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE E:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
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and Instructions > Page 8906
1. Remove the secondary locks.
2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW
TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE F:
3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of
connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary
in size and shape.
EXAMPLE A:
EXAMPLE B:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Map Light > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information
and Instructions > Page 8908
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE C:
EXAMPLE D:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Map Light > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information
and Instructions > Page 8909
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE E:
EXAMPLE F:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Map Light > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information
and Instructions > Page 8910
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE G:
1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct
replacement terminal based on the wire size range
NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part
number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available
through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures.
2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Map Light > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information
and Instructions > Page 8911
3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the
wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from
the kit.)
NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did,
cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again.
4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the
anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown
in step 3.
6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact.
- If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool
over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the
stops make contact.
- If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully
squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Map Light > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information
and Instructions > Page 8912
8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the following NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and
start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the
way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure
10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector.
Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too
short or when access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair.
On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged,
replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If
any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it.
1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from
Pin Tool Set.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Map Light > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information
and Instructions > Page 8913
2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal,
then strip about half of the insulation off that piece.
This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal.
NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will
not nick or cut off any strands of wires.
3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and
same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit
onto the stripped end of the original wire.
5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the
pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more
than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at
the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the
harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make
each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail.
7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends
of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue
NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the
stripper.
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and Instructions > Page 8914
8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the
flare begins), and close the crimper handles far
enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click,
squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open.
9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the
wire all the way into the splice connector, and
squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until
the ratchet clicks again.
10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After
crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the
connector.
12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire(s), and shield them with
nonflammable material.
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and Instructions > Page 8915
13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the
gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat
evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete
when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube.
NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun.
Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the
wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size)
splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select
the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in
quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures.
Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the
Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching
connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body.
1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector.
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and Instructions > Page 8916
2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool.
NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal
because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit.
3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal
with a replacement terminal from the appropriate
Five-Step Troubleshooting
Five-Step Troubleshooting
Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint.
Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
problem area.
Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by
tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground (certain
circuits contain a "How the Circuit Works" Diagram set). Also, trace circuits that share wiring with
the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on,
are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step
1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used
only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely
cause.
Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more
possible causes.
Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple
procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to
make tests at points that are easily accessible.
Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe
procedures.
Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire
problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure
no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur.
Test Equipment
Test Equipment
CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
1O-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up
of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to
various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is
voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital
volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is
between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM).
In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low
resistance means good continuity.
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and Instructions > Page 8917
Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a
reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is
affecting the measurement.
To order any test equipment shown, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool
numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin.
Jumper Wire
Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder
connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire
across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse.
To order any test equipment shown, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool
numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin.
Troubleshooting Precautions
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION: -
Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
- Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles.
2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part
Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place.
CAUTION: -
Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
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and Instructions > Page 8918
- Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-mega
ohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that
contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
Troubleshooting Tests
Troubleshooting Tests
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt
ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest
"OHMS" range.
2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you
want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end.
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and Instructions > Page 8919
4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or
no reading (zero), means good continuity.
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem. Circuits must be operating when checking
voltage drop.
1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts
range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage
is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM
voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
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and Instructions > Page 8920
Diagram 114-5
Diagrams: Other diagrams referred to by number (See Diagram ##-#, etc.) within these diagrams
can be found at Diagrams by Number. See: Diagrams/Electrical Diagrams/Diagrams By Number
Locations: Location photographs (references to PHOTOS) referred to within these diagrams can be
found at Locations by Photo Number. See: Locations/Component Locations/Locations By Photo
Number
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Map Light > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information
and Instructions > Page 8922
Connector Views: Connector terminal views (references to VIEWS) referred to within these
diagrams can be found at Connector Views by View Number. See: Diagrams/Connector
Views/Connector Views By View Number
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Map Light > Component Information > Diagrams > Page 8923
With moonroof
1. Turn the map light switch OFF. 2. Carefully pry the lens (A) off with a small screwdriver.
3. Remove the screws, then remove the map lights (B) and moonroof switch or navigation
microphone (C). 4. Disconnect the 3P connector from the map lights and the 10P [12P] connector
from the moonroof switch or navigation microphone.
[ ] : '08 model
5. Check for continuity between the terminals in each switch position according to the table.
6. If the continuity is not as specified, check the bulb(s). If the bulb(s) are OK, replace the light
assembly. 7. Install in the reverse order of removal.
Without moonroof
1. Turn the map light switch OFF. 2. Carefully pry the lens (A) off with a small screwdriver.
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3. Remove the screws, then remove the map lights (B). 4. Disconnect the 3P connector (C) from
the map lights. 5. Check for continuity between the terminals in each switch position according to
the table.
6. If the continuity is not as specified, check the bulb(s). If the bulb(s) are OK, replace the light
assembly. 7. Install in the reverse order of removal.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Marker Lamp > Marker Lamp Bulb > Component Information > Service
and Repair
1. Remove the inner fender. 2. Disconnect the 3P connector (A) from the front side
marker/parking/turn signal light.
3. Turn the bulb socket 45° counterclockwise to remove the bulb. 4. Install a new bulb in the
reverse order of removal.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Parking Lamp > Parking Light Bulb > Component Information > Service
and Repair
1. Remove the inner fender. 2. Disconnect the 3P connector (A) from the front side
marker/parking/turn signal light.
3. Turn the bulb socket 45° counterclockwise to remove the bulb. 4. Install a new bulb in the
reverse order of removal.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Relays and Modules - Lighting and Horns > Fog/Driving Lamp Relay >
Component Information > Diagrams
Circuit Schematics
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Relays and Modules - Lighting and Horns > Interior Lighting Module >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8941
Circuit Schematics
Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show
current flow, from power at the top of the diagram, to ground at the bottom.
Shared Circuits
Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that
connects one circuit to another, for example, is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it
pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or
component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring, check the operation of a
component it serves. If that component works, you know the shared wiring is OK.
Connectors
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Relays and Modules - Lighting and Horns > Interior Lighting Module >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8942
All in-line and junction connectors are numbered (C725, C416, etc.). Component connectors are
not numbered but are identified either by the name of the component if the component only has
one connector, or by a capital letter (A, B, C, etc.) if the component has more than one connector.
Below most connector numbers and component names are PHOTO and VIEW numbers. The
PHOTO number refers to a photo at Vehicle Level Locations that shows the connector's location on
the car. The VIEW number refers to an connector view at the Vehicle Level Connector Views that
shows the connector terminals, wire colors, connector cavity numbers, and other details.
The connector cavity numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector as seen
from either of the viewpoints. Except for the DLC (data link connector), disregard any numbers
molded into the connector housing.
Wires
Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the
stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number "2" next to the male
and female wire terminals at C554, for example, means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector
C554.
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the vehicle. Refer to the Power Distribution Diagram Set to get a more detailed
understanding of how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on. Individual circuit
schematics begin with a fuse. So if Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another
circuit share a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good
and power is available to the inoperative circuit.
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share the same
ground point.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8944
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8945
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8946
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8947
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8948
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8949
How to Identify Connector Terminals
Connector terminals are numbered according to the cavities they are in. The cavities are numbered
starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side or looking at the
female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the
same. All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not
the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the
connector face.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Relays and Modules - Lighting and Horns > Interior Lighting Module >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8950
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown above is #6.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Relays and Modules - Lighting and Horns > Interior Lighting Module >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8951
The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice
connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for
all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement
terminal availability.
On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged,
replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If
any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it.
Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the
wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the
terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to
make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a
factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS.
Use the tools from Pin Tool Set. First, check the connector that you are about to repair.
- If it has a secondary terminal lock, go to Connectors With a Secondary Lock. A secondary lock,
found on most connectors on some models, is an additional locking device on the connector
housing as a backup for the primary lock on the terminal.
- If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock.
All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the
secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the
connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities.
EXAMPLE A:
EXAMPLE B:
EXAMPLE C:
EXAMPLE D:
2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW
TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE E:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Relays and Modules - Lighting and Horns > Interior Lighting Module >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8955
1. Remove the secondary locks.
2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW
TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE F:
3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of
connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary
in size and shape.
EXAMPLE A:
EXAMPLE B:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Relays and Modules - Lighting and Horns > Interior Lighting Module >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8957
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE C:
EXAMPLE D:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Relays and Modules - Lighting and Horns > Interior Lighting Module >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8958
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE E:
EXAMPLE F:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Relays and Modules - Lighting and Horns > Interior Lighting Module >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8959
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE G:
1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct
replacement terminal based on the wire size range
NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part
number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available
through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures.
2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Relays and Modules - Lighting and Horns > Interior Lighting Module >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8960
3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the
wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from
the kit.)
NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did,
cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again.
4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the
anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown
in step 3.
6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact.
- If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool
over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the
stops make contact.
- If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully
squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Relays and Modules - Lighting and Horns > Interior Lighting Module >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8961
8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the following NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and
start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the
way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure
10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector.
Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too
short or when access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair.
On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged,
replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If
any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it.
1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from
Pin Tool Set.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Relays and Modules - Lighting and Horns > Interior Lighting Module >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8962
2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal,
then strip about half of the insulation off that piece.
This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal.
NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will
not nick or cut off any strands of wires.
3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and
same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit
onto the stripped end of the original wire.
5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the
pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more
than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at
the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the
harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make
each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail.
7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends
of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue
NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the
stripper.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Relays and Modules - Lighting and Horns > Interior Lighting Module >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8963
8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the
flare begins), and close the crimper handles far
enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click,
squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open.
9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the
wire all the way into the splice connector, and
squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until
the ratchet clicks again.
10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After
crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the
connector.
12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire(s), and shield them with
nonflammable material.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Relays and Modules - Lighting and Horns > Interior Lighting Module >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8964
13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the
gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat
evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete
when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube.
NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun.
Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the
wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size)
splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select
the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in
quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures.
Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the
Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching
connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body.
1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Relays and Modules - Lighting and Horns > Interior Lighting Module >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8965
2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool.
NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal
because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit.
3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal
with a replacement terminal from the appropriate
Five-Step Troubleshooting
Five-Step Troubleshooting
Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint.
Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
problem area.
Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by
tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground (certain
circuits contain a "How the Circuit Works" Diagram set). Also, trace circuits that share wiring with
the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on,
are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step
1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used
only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely
cause.
Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more
possible causes.
Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple
procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to
make tests at points that are easily accessible.
Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe
procedures.
Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire
problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure
no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur.
Test Equipment
Test Equipment
CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
1O-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up
of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to
various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is
voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital
volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is
between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM).
In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low
resistance means good continuity.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Relays and Modules - Lighting and Horns > Interior Lighting Module >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8966
Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a
reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is
affecting the measurement.
To order any test equipment shown, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool
numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin.
Jumper Wire
Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder
connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire
across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse.
To order any test equipment shown, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool
numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin.
Troubleshooting Precautions
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION: -
Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
- Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles.
2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part
Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place.
CAUTION: -
Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Relays and Modules - Lighting and Horns > Interior Lighting Module >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8967
- Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-mega
ohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that
contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
Troubleshooting Tests
Troubleshooting Tests
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt
ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest
"OHMS" range.
2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you
want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end.
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8968
4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or
no reading (zero), means good continuity.
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem. Circuits must be operating when checking
voltage drop.
1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts
range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage
is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM
voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Relays and Modules - Lighting and Horns > Interior Lighting Module >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8969
Interior Lighting Module: Electrical Diagrams
Diagram 115-0
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Relays and Modules - Lighting and Horns > Interior Lighting Module >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8970
Diagram 115-1
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Relays and Modules - Lighting and Horns > Interior Lighting Module >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8971
Diagram 115-2
Diagrams: Other diagrams referred to by number (See Diagram ##-#, etc.) within these diagrams
can be found at Diagrams by Number. See: Diagrams/Electrical Diagrams/Diagrams By Number
Locations: Location photographs (references to PHOTOS) referred to within these diagrams can be
found at Locations by Photo Number. See: Locations/Component Locations/Locations By Photo
Number
Connector Views: Connector terminal views (references to VIEWS) referred to within these
diagrams can be found at Connector Views by View Number. See: Diagrams/Connector
Views/Connector Views By View Number
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Sensors and Switches - Lighting and Horns > Backup Lamp Switch >
Component Information > Locations
Exterior Lights Component Location Index
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Sensors and Switches - Lighting and Horns > Backup Lamp Switch >
Component Information > Locations > Page 8976
2. Check for continuity between the back-up light switch 2P connector terminals No. 1 and No. 2.
There should be continuity when the change lever
is only in reverse.
3. If necessary, replace the back-up light switch. Install the new washer and back-up light switch on
the transmission housing.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Sensors and Switches - Lighting and Horns > Brake Light Switch >
Component Information > Description and Operation
Brake Light Switch: Description and Operation
The brake pedal position switch signals the PCM when the brake pedal is pressed.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Sensors and Switches - Lighting and Horns > Combination Switch >
Component Information > Locations
Combination Switch: Locations
1. Remove the dashboard lower cover. 2. Remove the steering column covers. 3. Disconnect the
12P connector (A) from the combination light switch (B).
4. Remove the two screws, then slide out the combination light switch. 5. Inspect the connector
terminals to be sure they are all making good contact.
- If the terminals are bent, loose or corroded, repair them as necessary, and recheck the system.
- If the terminals look OK, check for continuity between the terminals in each switch position
according to the tables. -
- With Audio.
- With Navigation.
3. Check for continuity between the terminals in each switch position according to the table.
4. If the continuity is not as specified, replace the bulb (A) or the hazard warning switch.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Sensors and Switches - Lighting and Horns > Horn Switch > Component
Information > Locations
With moonroof
NOTE: The interior light switch is built into the moonroof switch, and it switches the front individual
map lights between the OFF and DOOR positions.
1. Remove the front individual map lights. 2. Disconnect the moonroof switch 10P [12P] connector
(A) and map light 3P connector (B).
[ ] :'08 model
3. Remove the moonroof switch (C). 4. At the moonroof switch 10P [12P] connector, check for
continuity between the No. 1 [No. 7] and No. 8 [No. 9] terminals.
[ ] :'08 model
- There should be continuity when the interior light switch is in the DOOR position.
- There should be no continuity when the interior light switch is in the OFF position.
5. If the continuity check is not as specified, replace the switch. 6. Install the switch and light in the
reverse order of removal.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Sensors and Switches - Lighting and Horns > Turn Signal Switch >
Component Information > Locations
Circuit Schematics
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Tail Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information
and Instructions > Page 9017
Circuit Schematics
Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show
current flow, from power at the top of the diagram, to ground at the bottom.
Shared Circuits
Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that
connects one circuit to another, for example, is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it
pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or
component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring, check the operation of a
component it serves. If that component works, you know the shared wiring is OK.
Connectors
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and Instructions > Page 9018
All in-line and junction connectors are numbered (C725, C416, etc.). Component connectors are
not numbered but are identified either by the name of the component if the component only has
one connector, or by a capital letter (A, B, C, etc.) if the component has more than one connector.
Below most connector numbers and component names are PHOTO and VIEW numbers. The
PHOTO number refers to a photo at Vehicle Level Locations that shows the connector's location on
the car. The VIEW number refers to an connector view at the Vehicle Level Connector Views that
shows the connector terminals, wire colors, connector cavity numbers, and other details.
The connector cavity numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector as seen
from either of the viewpoints. Except for the DLC (data link connector), disregard any numbers
molded into the connector housing.
Wires
Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the
stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number "2" next to the male
and female wire terminals at C554, for example, means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector
C554.
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the vehicle. Refer to the Power Distribution Diagram Set to get a more detailed
understanding of how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on. Individual circuit
schematics begin with a fuse. So if Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another
circuit share a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good
and power is available to the inoperative circuit.
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share the same
ground point.
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and Instructions > Page 9022
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and Instructions > Page 9023
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and Instructions > Page 9024
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Tail Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information
and Instructions > Page 9025
How to Identify Connector Terminals
Connector terminals are numbered according to the cavities they are in. The cavities are numbered
starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side or looking at the
female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the
same. All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not
the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the
connector face.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Tail Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information
and Instructions > Page 9026
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown above is #6.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Tail Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information
and Instructions > Page 9027
The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice
connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for
all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement
terminal availability.
On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged,
replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If
any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it.
Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the
wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the
terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to
make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a
factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS.
Use the tools from Pin Tool Set. First, check the connector that you are about to repair.
- If it has a secondary terminal lock, go to Connectors With a Secondary Lock. A secondary lock,
found on most connectors on some models, is an additional locking device on the connector
housing as a backup for the primary lock on the terminal.
- If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock.
All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the
secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the
connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities.
EXAMPLE A:
EXAMPLE B:
EXAMPLE C:
EXAMPLE D:
2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW
TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE E:
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Tail Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information
and Instructions > Page 9031
1. Remove the secondary locks.
2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW
TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE F:
3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of
connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary
in size and shape.
EXAMPLE A:
EXAMPLE B:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Tail Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information
and Instructions > Page 9033
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE C:
EXAMPLE D:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Tail Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information
and Instructions > Page 9034
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE E:
EXAMPLE F:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Tail Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information
and Instructions > Page 9035
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE G:
1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct
replacement terminal based on the wire size range
NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part
number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available
through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures.
2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Tail Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information
and Instructions > Page 9036
3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the
wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from
the kit.)
NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did,
cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again.
4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the
anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown
in step 3.
6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact.
- If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool
over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the
stops make contact.
- If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully
squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Tail Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information
and Instructions > Page 9037
8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the following NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and
start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the
way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure
10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector.
Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too
short or when access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair.
On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged,
replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If
any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it.
1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from
Pin Tool Set.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Tail Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information
and Instructions > Page 9038
2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal,
then strip about half of the insulation off that piece.
This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal.
NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will
not nick or cut off any strands of wires.
3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and
same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit
onto the stripped end of the original wire.
5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the
pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more
than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at
the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the
harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make
each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail.
7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends
of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue
NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the
stripper.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Tail Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information
and Instructions > Page 9039
8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the
flare begins), and close the crimper handles far
enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click,
squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open.
9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the
wire all the way into the splice connector, and
squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until
the ratchet clicks again.
10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After
crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the
connector.
12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire(s), and shield them with
nonflammable material.
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and Instructions > Page 9040
13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the
gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat
evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete
when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube.
NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun.
Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the
wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size)
splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select
the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in
quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures.
Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the
Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching
connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body.
1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector.
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and Instructions > Page 9041
2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool.
NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal
because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit.
3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal
with a replacement terminal from the appropriate
Five-Step Troubleshooting
Five-Step Troubleshooting
Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint.
Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
problem area.
Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by
tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground (certain
circuits contain a "How the Circuit Works" Diagram set). Also, trace circuits that share wiring with
the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on,
are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step
1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used
only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely
cause.
Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more
possible causes.
Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple
procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to
make tests at points that are easily accessible.
Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe
procedures.
Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire
problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure
no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur.
Test Equipment
Test Equipment
CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
1O-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up
of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to
various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is
voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital
volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is
between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM).
In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low
resistance means good continuity.
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and Instructions > Page 9042
Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a
reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is
affecting the measurement.
To order any test equipment shown, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool
numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin.
Jumper Wire
Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder
connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire
across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse.
To order any test equipment shown, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool
numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin.
Troubleshooting Precautions
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION: -
Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
- Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles.
2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part
Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place.
CAUTION: -
Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
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and Instructions > Page 9043
- Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-mega
ohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that
contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
Troubleshooting Tests
Troubleshooting Tests
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt
ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest
"OHMS" range.
2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you
want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end.
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and Instructions > Page 9044
4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or
no reading (zero), means good continuity.
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem. Circuits must be operating when checking
voltage drop.
1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts
range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage
is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM
voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
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and Instructions > Page 9045
Tail Lamp: Connector Views
Diagram 110-4
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and Instructions > Page 9048
Diagram 110-5
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and Instructions > Page 9049
Diagram 110-6
Diagrams: Other diagrams referred to by number (See Diagram ##-#, etc.) within these diagrams
can be found at Diagrams by Number. See: Diagrams/Electrical Diagrams/Diagrams By Number
Locations: Location photographs (references to PHOTOS) referred to within these diagrams can be
found at Locations by Photo Number. See: Locations/Component Locations/Locations By Photo
Number
Connector Views: Connector terminal views (references to VIEWS) referred to within these
diagrams can be found at Connector Views by View Number. See: Diagrams/Connector
Views/Connector Views By View Number
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Tail Lamp > Component Information > Service and Repair > Taillight
Replacement
2-Door
Taillight Replacement
2-door
1. Remove the rear bumper. 2. Disconnect the connectors (A) from the taillights (B).
3. Turn the bulb sockets 45° counterclockwise to remove the bulbs. 4. Remove the nuts and
screws, then remove the taillight. 5. Install the light in the reverse order of removal.
4-Door
Taillight Replacement
4-door
1. Remove the rear bumper. 2. Disconnect the connectors (A) from the taillights (B).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Tail Lamp > Component Information > Service and Repair > Taillight
Replacement > Page 9052
3. Turn the bulb sockets 45° counterclockwise to remove the bulbs. 4. Remove the nuts and
screws, then remove the taillight. 5. Install the light in the reverse order of removal.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Tail Lamp > Component Information > Service and Repair > Taillight
Replacement > Page 9053
4-door
1. Open the trunk lid, and remove the rear license trim. 2. Disconnect the connector (A) from the
inner taillight (B).
3. Turn the bulb socket 45° counterclockwise to remove the bulb. 4. Remove the nuts, then remove
the taillight. 5. Install the light in the reverse order of removal.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Trunk Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions
Trunk Lamp: Diagram Information and Instructions
Circuit Schematics
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Trunk Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 9058
Circuit Schematics
Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show
current flow, from power at the top of the diagram, to ground at the bottom.
Shared Circuits
Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that
connects one circuit to another, for example, is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it
pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or
component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring, check the operation of a
component it serves. If that component works, you know the shared wiring is OK.
Connectors
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Trunk Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 9059
All in-line and junction connectors are numbered (C725, C416, etc.). Component connectors are
not numbered but are identified either by the name of the component if the component only has
one connector, or by a capital letter (A, B, C, etc.) if the component has more than one connector.
Below most connector numbers and component names are PHOTO and VIEW numbers. The
PHOTO number refers to a photo at Vehicle Level Locations that shows the connector's location on
the car. The VIEW number refers to an connector view at the Vehicle Level Connector Views that
shows the connector terminals, wire colors, connector cavity numbers, and other details.
The connector cavity numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector as seen
from either of the viewpoints. Except for the DLC (data link connector), disregard any numbers
molded into the connector housing.
Wires
Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the
stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number "2" next to the male
and female wire terminals at C554, for example, means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector
C554.
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the vehicle. Refer to the Power Distribution Diagram Set to get a more detailed
understanding of how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on. Individual circuit
schematics begin with a fuse. So if Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another
circuit share a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good
and power is available to the inoperative circuit.
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share the same
ground point.
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Information and Instructions > Page 9061
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Information and Instructions > Page 9062
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Information and Instructions > Page 9063
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Information and Instructions > Page 9064
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Information and Instructions > Page 9065
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Information and Instructions > Page 9066
How to Identify Connector Terminals
Connector terminals are numbered according to the cavities they are in. The cavities are numbered
starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side or looking at the
female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the
same. All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not
the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the
connector face.
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Information and Instructions > Page 9067
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown above is #6.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Trunk Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 9068
The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice
connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for
all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement
terminal availability.
On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged,
replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If
any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it.
Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the
wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the
terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to
make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a
factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS.
Use the tools from Pin Tool Set. First, check the connector that you are about to repair.
- If it has a secondary terminal lock, go to Connectors With a Secondary Lock. A secondary lock,
found on most connectors on some models, is an additional locking device on the connector
housing as a backup for the primary lock on the terminal.
- If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock.
All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the
secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the
connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities.
EXAMPLE A:
EXAMPLE B:
EXAMPLE C:
EXAMPLE D:
2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW
TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE E:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Trunk Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 9072
1. Remove the secondary locks.
2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW
TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE F:
3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of
connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary
in size and shape.
EXAMPLE A:
EXAMPLE B:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Trunk Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 9074
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE C:
EXAMPLE D:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Trunk Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 9075
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE E:
EXAMPLE F:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Trunk Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 9076
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE G:
1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct
replacement terminal based on the wire size range
NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part
number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available
through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures.
2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.8L CNG (2008))
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Information and Instructions > Page 9077
3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the
wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from
the kit.)
NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did,
cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again.
4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the
anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown
in step 3.
6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact.
- If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool
over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the
stops make contact.
- If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully
squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape.
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8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the following NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and
start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the
way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure
10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector.
Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too
short or when access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair.
On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged,
replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If
any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it.
1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from
Pin Tool Set.
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2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal,
then strip about half of the insulation off that piece.
This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal.
NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will
not nick or cut off any strands of wires.
3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and
same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit
onto the stripped end of the original wire.
5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the
pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more
than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at
the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the
harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make
each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail.
7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends
of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue
NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the
stripper.
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8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the
flare begins), and close the crimper handles far
enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click,
squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open.
9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the
wire all the way into the splice connector, and
squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until
the ratchet clicks again.
10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After
crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the
connector.
12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire(s), and shield them with
nonflammable material.
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13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the
gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat
evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete
when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube.
NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun.
Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the
wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size)
splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select
the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in
quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures.
Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the
Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching
connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body.
1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector.
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2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool.
NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal
because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit.
3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal
with a replacement terminal from the appropriate
Five-Step Troubleshooting
Five-Step Troubleshooting
Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint.
Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
problem area.
Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by
tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground (certain
circuits contain a "How the Circuit Works" Diagram set). Also, trace circuits that share wiring with
the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on,
are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step
1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used
only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely
cause.
Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more
possible causes.
Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple
procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to
make tests at points that are easily accessible.
Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe
procedures.
Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire
problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure
no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur.
Test Equipment
Test Equipment
CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
1O-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up
of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to
various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is
voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital
volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is
between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM).
In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low
resistance means good continuity.
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Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a
reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is
affecting the measurement.
To order any test equipment shown, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool
numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin.
Jumper Wire
Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder
connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire
across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse.
To order any test equipment shown, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool
numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin.
Troubleshooting Precautions
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION: -
Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
- Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles.
2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part
Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place.
CAUTION: -
Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
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- Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-mega
ohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that
contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
Troubleshooting Tests
Troubleshooting Tests
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt
ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest
"OHMS" range.
2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you
want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end.
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4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or
no reading (zero), means good continuity.
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem. Circuits must be operating when checking
voltage drop.
1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts
range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage
is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM
voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
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Diagram 114-7
Diagrams: Other diagrams referred to by number (See Diagram ##-#, etc.) within these diagrams
can be found at Diagrams by Number. See: Diagrams/Electrical Diagrams/Diagrams By Number
Locations: Location photographs (references to PHOTOS) referred to within these diagrams can be
found at Locations by Photo Number. See: Locations/Component Locations/Locations By Photo
Number
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Connector Views: Connector terminal views (references to VIEWS) referred to within these
diagrams can be found at Connector Views by View Number. See: Diagrams/Connector
Views/Connector Views By View Number
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1. Open the trunk lid. 2. Carefully pry out the trunk light (A).
3. Disconnect the 2P connector (B) from the light. 4. Check for continuity between the No. 1 (+) and
No. 2 (-) terminals. There should be continuity. If there is no continuity, check the bulb. If the bulb
1. Remove the dashboard lower cover. 2. Remove the steering column covers. 3. Disconnect the
12P connector (A) from the combination light switch (B).
4. Remove the two screws, then slide out the combination light switch. 5. Inspect the connector
terminals to be sure they are all making good contact.
- If the terminals are bent, loose or corroded, repair them as necessary, and recheck the system.
- If the terminals look OK, check for continuity between the terminals in each switch position
according to the tables. -
1. Remove the inner fender. 2. Disconnect the 3P connector (A) from the front side
marker/parking/turn signal light.
3. Turn the bulb socket 45° counterclockwise to remove the bulb. 4. Install a new bulb in the
reverse order of removal.
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Circuit Schematics
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Circuit Schematics
Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show
current flow, from power at the top of the diagram, to ground at the bottom.
Shared Circuits
Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that
connects one circuit to another, for example, is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it
pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or
component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring, check the operation of a
component it serves. If that component works, you know the shared wiring is OK.
Connectors
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All in-line and junction connectors are numbered (C725, C416, etc.). Component connectors are
not numbered but are identified either by the name of the component if the component only has
one connector, or by a capital letter (A, B, C, etc.) if the component has more than one connector.
Below most connector numbers and component names are PHOTO and VIEW numbers. The
PHOTO number refers to a photo at Vehicle Level Locations that shows the connector's location on
the car. The VIEW number refers to an connector view at the Vehicle Level Connector Views that
shows the connector terminals, wire colors, connector cavity numbers, and other details.
The connector cavity numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector as seen
from either of the viewpoints. Except for the DLC (data link connector), disregard any numbers
molded into the connector housing.
Wires
Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the
stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number "2" next to the male
and female wire terminals at C554, for example, means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector
C554.
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the vehicle. Refer to the Power Distribution Diagram Set to get a more detailed
understanding of how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on. Individual circuit
schematics begin with a fuse. So if Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another
circuit share a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good
and power is available to the inoperative circuit.
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share the same
ground point.
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How to Identify Connector Terminals
Connector terminals are numbered according to the cavities they are in. The cavities are numbered
starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side or looking at the
female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the
same. All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not
the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the
connector face.
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The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown above is #6.
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The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice
connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for
all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement
terminal availability.
On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged,
replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If
any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it.
Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the
wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the
terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to
make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a
factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS.
Use the tools from Pin Tool Set. First, check the connector that you are about to repair.
- If it has a secondary terminal lock, go to Connectors With a Secondary Lock. A secondary lock,
found on most connectors on some models, is an additional locking device on the connector
housing as a backup for the primary lock on the terminal.
- If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock.
All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the
secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the
connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities.
EXAMPLE A:
EXAMPLE B:
EXAMPLE C:
EXAMPLE D:
2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW
TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE E:
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1. Remove the secondary locks.
2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW
TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE F:
3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of
connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary
in size and shape.
EXAMPLE A:
EXAMPLE B:
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1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE C:
EXAMPLE D:
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1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE E:
EXAMPLE F:
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1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE G:
1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct
replacement terminal based on the wire size range
NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part
number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available
through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures.
2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool.
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3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the
wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from
the kit.)
NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did,
cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again.
4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the
anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown
in step 3.
6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact.
- If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool
over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the
stops make contact.
- If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully
squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape.
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8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the following NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and
start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the
way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure
10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector.
Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too
short or when access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair.
On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged,
replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If
any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it.
1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from
Pin Tool Set.
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2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal,
then strip about half of the insulation off that piece.
This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal.
NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will
not nick or cut off any strands of wires.
3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and
same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit
onto the stripped end of the original wire.
5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the
pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more
than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at
the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the
harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make
each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail.
7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends
of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue
NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the
stripper.
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8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the
flare begins), and close the crimper handles far
enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click,
squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open.
9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the
wire all the way into the splice connector, and
squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until
the ratchet clicks again.
10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After
crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the
connector.
12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire(s), and shield them with
nonflammable material.
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13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the
gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat
evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete
when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube.
NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun.
Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the
wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size)
splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select
the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in
quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures.
Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the
Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the term