Key Sugars in Ganache: Chef Russ Thayer

#FUNDAMENTALFRIDAY
KEY SUGARS IN GANACHE

CHEF RUSS THAYER
WWW.CHOCOLATEACADEMY.ONLINE
FUNDAMENTAL FRIDAY - KEY SUGARS IN GANACHE - CHEF RUSS THAYER
key sugars in ganache

Sugar isn't just what makes ganache sweet - in fact, it is practically impossible
to obtain a final product resembling what we call ganache - without using sugar.
Chocolate, the number one ingredient required for ganache (in my opinion), is
composed in large part of sugar, and therefore, our ganache is going to have
sugar in it from the very outset. But let's not ignore the fact that most ganache
recipes will also include other sugars in the recipe.
That being said, we need to clarify that the term 'sugar' is often used as a
blanket term for a wide variety of sugars. This can make the world of sugars
confusing because on one hand we view sugar simply as a tool to make a recipe
sweeter, when in reality, it is so much more than that.
Sugars are crucial in many ways for ganache, and for any product which
incorporates sugars for that matter. They provide not only sweetness to
counteract the bitterness of other ingredients (such as cocoa solids), but they
are also useful for contributing to the final texture of our products, as well as
beneficial for binding with water in our recipes, which helps extend the shelf life
of those products, as that water is no longer available for microbiological
activity - effectively all sugars are preservatives.
Yet the way in which each sugar provides sweetness, contributes to texture, and
influences shelf life is vastly different from one to the next. No two sugars are
alike! This short guide helps to demystify the basics of each of the sugars we
use in our daily work. This guide however is by no means an exhaustive bible on
sugars, as it is a very deep and scientific subject to be researched and explored.
Nonetheless, the hope is that it helps to clarify the main points of these
commonly utilized ingredients, helps you to better understand your recipes,
and gives you the confidence to make some changes to your recipes, while
ultimately understanding what is likely to happen when you do.
ALL RIGHTS RESERVED © 2020 BARRY CALLEBAUT
so many sugars!
MANY DIFFERENT SUGARS CAN BE OBSERVED IN GANACHE RECIPES:
Sucrose
Honey
Dextrose
Glucose Syrup
Corn Syrup
Invert Sugar Syrup
Molasses
etc
A SIMPLE GANACHE EXAMPLE:

500g Heavy Cream
50g Glucose Syrup
650g Cacao Barry Tanzanie 75% Dark Couverture
100g Fresh butter
A MORE COMPLEX GANACHE EXAMPLE:

496g Heavy Cream
78g Glucose Syrup
52g Sorbitol Powder
56g Inverted Sugar
39g Clarified Butter
403g Cacao Barry Tanzanie 75% Dark Couverture
170g Cacao Barry Alunga 41% Milk Couverture
*Sources of sugar denoted in green
Why are these sugars in ganache recipes

in the first place?
THE MAIN ROLES OF SUGARS IN CONFECTIONS:
Add sweetness
Control texture, volume and moisture
Preservation (shelf life)
Color (caramel)
EACH SUGAR HAS SPECIFIC PROPERTIES:

A specific sweetness
A specific ability to control texture and moisture
A specific preservation ability
A specific taste profile
NO TWO SUGARS ARE ALIKE:

Each sugar contributes a unique sweetness
Each sugar has a unique impact on texture and moisture
Each sugar has a unique impact on preservation
Each sugar has a unique taste
Substituting one sugar for another is challenging and often leads to a

different final result.
Understanding the properties of each sugar will enable you to utilize,

omit, or change sugars in the recipe with as little change as possible
to sweetness, texture, preservation, and taste.
sucrose
Sucrose (also known as table sugar, granulated Sugar, or simply sugar)
Derived from sugar cane or beet root – there is no difference in the final product
Typically added to ganache recipes via the chocolate(s) used
Most common sugar found in confections
Composed of one Glucose and one Fructose molecule bonded together
Defined as a disaccharide
di=two (two molecules which compose it)
saccharide=sugar
Glucose + Fructose
ADVANTAGES:
https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/1/1a/Saccharose2.svg
Inexpensive
Readily available
Maintains a pleasant taste over the concentration range used
For example, the sweetness of fructose is perceived earlier than glucose or
sucrose, it quickly reaches peak sweetness and the sweetness fades faster
than sucrose.
DISADVANTAGES:
Prone to crystallization in high concentrations
Crystals are extremely hard, which can have a negative effect on the texture
invert sugar
Invert Sugar = Inverted Sugar = Invert Syrup = Trimoline
These terms are all used to describe the same product
Trimoline is a brand name
This product is obtained after heating a mixture of water, sucrose, and

an acid or enzyme (usually acid)
The bonds between the glucose and fructose molecules are broken
This is called a hydrolysis reaction
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Inverted_sugar_syrup#/media/File:Sugar-inversion.png
Sucrose Glucose & Fructose
The process results in semi-liquid mixture of glucose molecules and

fructose molecules (and sometimes some sucrose molecules remain
depending on the manufacture). It is commonly found in the kitchen as a
white paste or a syrup.
Compared with its precursor, sucrose, inverted sugar is sweeter-tasting

and products that are made with it tend to retain more moisture and are
less prone to crystallization.
You can make it yourself, but it is advisable to buy the product ready for
use. It can be challenging to make a consistent product on your own.
invert sugar
ADVANTAGES:
Not prone to re-crystallization
Binds well with water (preservation)
Moisture Retention - good for products likely to dry out:
muffins
sponge cake
ganache
etc
Dissolves easily in water
DISADVANTAGES:
Sweeter tasting than sucrose
can use less to achieve same sweetness
Consumer perception
Caramelizes faster than sucrose (baked goods become darker)
Honey can be substituted for invert sugar, as honey is a naturally derived invert
syrup
dextrose
Dextrose is another name for the glucose molecule. This is the same molecule we see
in granulated sugar and also in invert sugar.
We use the term dextrose when this glucose molecule is purchased in a pure,
powdered format.
Dextrose, unlike sucrose, is a monosaccharide, meaning it is composed only of single

glucose molecules.
Mainly produced from corn starch (in USA) but also from other starches such as
potato, wheat, tapioca, etc.
Specifically, dextrose is obtained through a hydrolysis reaction with a starch, water,

and an acid, or enzyme.
Dextrose is the result of starch that has undergone complete hydrolysis, or in other
words, all of the complex starch molecules have been separated into simple sugar
molecules (dextrose). The water is then evaporated, leaving behind pure dextrose.
ADVANTAGES:
Behaves similar to sucrose
Lower sweetness than sucrose
Not prone to re-crystallization
Better moisture retention and preservation properties than sucrose
DISADVANTAGES:
Cost
Consumer perception
Glucose Syrups
Thick, translucent or transparent syrups obtained after a partial hydrolysis of starch
(corn, wheat, or potato starch are typically used).
These syrups are used as sweeteners, texture softening agents, anti-crystallizing

agents, and binding agents. Glucose syrups are commonly used in confectionery,
jams and canned fruits, ice cream and sorbets, dairy desserts, pastry, biscuits,
beverages, breakfast cereals, and the like
The most common DE syrups are:

DE 36-39: low DE glucose syrup
DE 42-45: medium DE glucose syrup
DE 56-60: high DE glucose syrup
*We typically see low and medium DE syrups used in confectionery
ADVANTAGES:
Anti-crystallization properties
Benefits texture
Low sweetness
DISADVANTAGES:
Adds water to the recipe
Difficult to scale
Cost
Consumer perception
Can be hard to find specific DE of syrups
DE=dextrose Equivalent
DE is the identity card of all glucose based products. The number next to the DE
specifies the grams of glucose molecules per 100g of dry matter (remember that
dextrose is another name for the glucose molecule).
The DE describes the degree of conversion of starch to dextrose:

starch is close to a DE of zero
dextrins vary between DE 1 and 13
maltodextrins vary between DE 13 and 20
glucose syrups vary from DE 20 to +/-80
pure dextrose is DE 100
Depending on their DE, glucose syrups exhibit different viscosities and have different
properties.
glucose powder
Also known as dehydrated glucose syrup or atomized glucose syrup
Glucose powder is commercially manufactured by dehydrating glucose syrups,
effectively removing all the moisture from the syrup, resulting in only the solids
A white powder that looks exactly the same as Dextrose
Don’t get them confused - they don't have the same properties!
Dextrose powder vs. Glucose Powder

Dextrose powder = always a DE of 100
Dextrose powder is more prone to crystallization than glucose powder
Dextrose powder is sweeter than glucose powder
Glucose powder = Variety of DE powders available

Glucose powders can be purchased in a range of DE depending on the syrup
which was dehydrated
Glucose powder helps inhibit crystallization better than dextrose powder -
thanks to the dextrin molecules (larger, more complex sugar/starch
molecules) still present in the powder
ADVANTAGES:
no water added to the recipe
easier to scale and incorporate into recipes than glucose syrup
DISADVANTAGES:
cost
availability
determining the DE of the powder can be difficult in the artisan market
sugar alcohols
Sugar alcohols are organic compounds, typically derived from sugars, that comprise
a class of polyols. Contrary to what the name may suggest, a sugar alcohol is neither
an alcoholic beverage nor a sugar. They are white, water-soluble solids that can
occur naturally or be produced industrially from sugars. They are used widely in the
food industry as thickeners and sweeteners. In commercial foodstuffs, sugar alcohols
are commonly used in place of sucrose, often in combination with high intensity
artificial sweeteners to counter the low sweetness. Unlike sugars, sugar alcohols do
not contribute to the formation of tooth cavities.Sugar alcohols have received a
negative image due to the fact that in high concentrations they can cause bloating
and diarrhea.
Numerous sugar alcohols exist:

Sorbitol
Glycerol (glycerine)
Mannitol
Maltitol
Erythritol
Xylitol
Lactitol
Etc...
Of all the sugar alcohols available, very few are commonly found in the confectioner’s
pantry, due in large part to consumer perception, difficulty in use, and also the
artisan nature of our industry which differentiates itself from the processed food
manufacturers who are widely known to use these products.
Of the sugar alcohols, the ones most commonly found in the artisan pantry are:
Sorbitol
Glycerol (glycerine)
sorbitol
Small amounts of sorbitol are naturally present is some fruits, however, the
commercial source of sorbitol is the dextrose produced from cornstarch. Sorbitol is
manufactured by hydrogenating (adding hydrogen) to dextrose. Another name for
sorbitol is glucitol (resembling glucose), however sorbitol is the term used by the food
industry. In the USA, the FDA regulations permit sorbitol to be used in food “at levels
not to exceed good manufacturing practices.” Sorbitol can be purchased as a fine
white powder, and also in liquid format. The liquid is typically a composition of 70%
sorbitol and 30% water, although other concentrations may be available. Typical
usage in ganache recipes is from 5 to 10%.
ADVANTAGES:
Moisture stabilizer and inhibits the drying out of fillings
Binds well with water, improving shelf life
In its pure form, has a cooling effect on the tongue
Low energy sweetener (slow absorption in the body)
Half as sweet as sucrose, so it is beneficial in high sugar recipes at lowering
sweetness
Helps prevent sugar re-crystallization
DISADVANTAGES:
Consumer perception
Cost
Powdered sorbitol is somewhat difficult to dissolve in liquid (similar to sucrose)
Can have a laxative effect if more than 25g is consumed daily
With normal use, no side effects are to be expected
Glycerol
Glycerol (also called glycerine or glycerin) is a simple polyol compound. It is a
colorless, odorless, viscous liquid that is sweet-tasting and non-toxic. The glycerol
backbone is found in those lipids known as glycerides. It is also widely used as a
sweetener in the food industry. Glycerol is highly soluble in water and is hygroscopic in
nature, and thus is very good at both keeping products moist for a long period of time
and also has powerful preservation abilities. It is typically manufactured through a
complex chemical process starting from soybeans or palm. If used in excess of a
certain ratio (generally 5% - depends on recipe), a waxy/metallic taste which is
undesirable may develop.
ADVANTAGES:
excellent preservation ability
easy to incorporate into recipes
very hygroscopic - excellent moisture retention ability
cost effective
easily sourced
DISADVANTAGES:
consumer perception
certain people may be sensitive to glycerol and experience a laxative effect,
headaches, dizziness, or bloating
some people report a waxy taste (especially if used in high concentrations)
sweetening power
This refers to the perceptible sweetness that any sugar brings to a mix. In other
words, how sweet the sugar appears on your tongue.
The scale by which sweetening power is defined is based upon the most widely used
sugar, which is sucrose, and is given a reference number of 100.
This range of sweetening powers among various sugars allows us to create

formulas that allow for the ability to control the sweetness of the final product.
bringing it all together
wrapping up
As we have seen, there is so much more to sugar than just being sweet! Keep the
chart on the previous page near at hand, just as I do, so that you can anticipate
differences in your recipes as you are formulating them, or if you decide to make
changes to existing recipes.
By understanding the basic composition and properties of each sugar commonly

found in the confectionery pantry, you will be better able to control the
aforementioned parameters of your ganaches: sweetness, texture, and
preservation. Of course sugars affect more than just those three parameters, but
these are the essential ones that impact the confectioner the most on a daily basis.
Successful pastry chefs and confectioners understand the advantages and

disadvantages of each sugar. They know when they can substitute one for another,
and they know how to do it. The hurdle lies in understanding terminology and
functionality of each sugar in the pantry.
As for substitutions, you can sometimes get close, but the results will never be the
same as the original because the properties of each sugar are different as we have
discovered, but don't let that stop you from experimenting and finding the
ingredients and techniques that suit you.
All the best in your sweet chocolate journey, and never stop learning!
Russ Thayer
Lead Chef, Chocolate Academy Online
The video which accompanies this text can be found on

Chocolate Academy Online Instagram TV.
@chocolateacademyonline

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#FUNDAMENTALFRIDAY

KEY SUGARS IN GANACHE

key sugars in ganache

A SIMPLE GANACHE EXAMPLE:

A MORE COMPLEX GANACHE EXAMPLE:

*Sources of sugar denoted in green

Why are these sugars in ganache recipes

EACH SUGAR HAS SPECIFIC PROPERTIES:

NO TWO SUGARS ARE ALIKE:

Substituting one sugar for another is challenging and often leads to a

Understanding the properties of each sugar will enable you to utilize,

This product is obtained after heating a mixture of water, sucrose, and

The process results in semi-liquid mixture of glucose molecules and

Compared with its precursor, sucrose, inverted sugar is sweeter-tasting

Dextrose, unlike sucrose, is a monosaccharide, meaning it is composed only of single

Specifically, dextrose is obtained through a hydrolysis reaction with a starch, water,

These syrups are used as sweeteners, texture softening agents, anti-crystallizing

The most common DE syrups are:

The DE describes the degree of conversion of starch to dextrose:

Dextrose powder vs. Glucose Powder

Glucose powder = Variety of DE powders available

Numerous sugar alcohols exist:

This range of sweetening powers among various sugars allows us to create

bringing it all together

By understanding the basic composition and properties of each sugar commonly

Successful pastry chefs and confectioners understand the advantages and

The video which accompanies this text can be found on

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